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meijin

Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 11,479 Real Name: Michael

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Invicta Russian Diver Model 2625

Just when you think you know what direction Invicta is heading in, they pull a 180 on you and jolt your sense of reality. Shaking things up this time is a radical vintage design called the Model 2625 Russian Diver, and upon first seeing this watch in person you can't help but be completely taken aback.

Invicta has done a few pieces to honor their heritage, the first notable piece being in the 1948 line. It was a Swiss ETA 2824-2 encapsulated within an oversized case replicating a vintage design from 1948 and was one of their most successful models of 2003.

This time they have tackled a design they made in 1959 which was commissioned for the Russian Naval Fleet. The former Soviet Union commissioned roughly 100 pieces to be made

by Invicta in Switzerland for their elite divers in their Navy, and proved to be one of the last Swiss manufactures used by the USSR. Designed to be worn over a diver's suit this is a huge watch with large numerals and hands for better legibility under water, and in the dark.

Protecting the crown is a large screwdown "cap" which tightens down for water resistance.

Eyal Lalo (President & CEO of Invicta Watch) was given one of the original Russian Divers by his grandmother and has decided to use that for a basis for this design. Completely replicating this original took a lot of work by creating this one-off oversized case, and unique vintage dial. The original was carefully taken apart so that every part of it could be inspected, measured, and replicated as closely as possible. Invicta has surpassed the original by utilizing a stronger compound of Tritnite luminescent material on the dial, and a completely reworked and skeletonized Swiss Unitas movement. All of the work was performed in their newly built Swiss factory and it exhibits all of the finish and quality of any high end Swiss Made product.

SPECS: Case Diameter: 53mm (without crown) 58mm (with crown)

Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel Strap Size: 26mm at lug, tapers to 24mm at buckle Strap Material: Genuine Leather Crystals: Mineral front (6mm thick), mineral back Movement: Swiss Unitas, skeletonized Water Resistance: 100m tested AESTHETICS: The first thing you notice about this watch is the enormous size, this was not born of a designers wish to go overboard (diving pun intended) but rather mimics the original design from 1959, and follows suit with many comparable watches made by other esteemed manufactures whom have built this type of military diver. At nearly 60mm (including crown) it dominates your wrist, and along with that... every other watch in your collection. This is a big, bold watch that is NOT for the timid. Along with the massive size you have a massive amount of weight on your wrist due to the solid Stainless Steel construction of the case, screwdown crown guard, buckle, and non-rotating bezel. The fit and finish is typical flawless Swiss quality and the case is entirely polished except the lug area which is brushed.

Here to give you an idea of the massive size is a comparison with a Model 2061 Mother of Pearl Pro Diver which is a common 40mm:

The dial is a traditional military diver dial with no extraneous readouts. Straight time of day illuminated with the purest, non-dilluted form of Invicta's luminescent material Tritnite. This new formula of the original compound allows for much brighter, and longer lasting legibility.

If you can't read the time on this dial, it's time for another visit to the eye doctor!

The strap is made of genuine leather, and is extremely thick. It has a pleasing soft finish, and is very pliable even though it is so thick. Due to its rugged construction you should never experience tearing, or excessive wear. The single tang buckle looks more like a belt buckle, and is quite substantial in size & weight. The buckle is a perfect match to the brutish design of the watch case.

Turning the watch over you see a mineral crystal caseback held in place by a screwdown Stainless Steel outer ring. On the steel portion it is marked SWISS MADE, and denotes the 100m water resistance.

FUNCTIONALITY: Case: The large diameter case is also quite thick, and very heavy... you'll always know you are wearing this watch. The bezel has a nice reed pattern surrounding it, and breaks up the look of high polish on every other visible surface. The lug horns are severely curved so that it can be comfortably worn on smaller wrists. I have a 7.5" wrist and this watch wears comfortably for me. The only issue some may have is thew oversized crown guard (cap) which protrudes nearly 6mm from the case. I wear my watch on the right arm, so this is a non-issue for me, but some could find it cumbersome hitting the back of their hand. Many watch companies now make oversized crowns, and they have enjoyed great success...

Invicta should not have much to worry about here.

(wrist shots taken on LEFT wrist for reference of crown size / wrist placement) Strap: As stated previously, the strap is large at 26mm and because of this large width it wears comfortably. It evenly distributes the massive weight of the case, and relieves any pressure points. The large tang holes make the watch easy to strap on quickly, and you have a confident solid feel reassuring you that even under the toughest of abuse this watch will not separate from the strap.

Dial and Luminescence: Sanitary black dial is a traditional military look stating only the time of day. At the 3 o'clock position you have the Invicta name, at the 6 you have "Invicta" written in Russian dialect along with CCCP. All of the numerals, markers, and hands are filled with Tritnite. This new compound of the ORIGINAL formula is simply a pure form of Tritnite. By diluting the compound less than normal it allowed Invicta to create a much brighter, and longer lasting material. After a 5 minute blast from my blacklight the lume was near blindingly bright, and the overall lume legibility was noted as long as 7 hours after the charge.

Movement: This to me is the best part of this watch. A true symbol of Invicta's Horological prowess, and a fine representation of the quality of workmanship emerging from their newest Swiss Factory in La Chaux de Fonds, this severely skeletonized Unitas mechanical movement is a near work of art. The Swiss Unitas 6498 was originally designed for pocket watches, and with the recent trend of larger diameter wristwatches, have found a home in many modern wristwatches. Running at 21,600bph this 17 jewel workhorse should provide up to 55 hours of power reserve from a single hand winding.

The Unitas is noted for its large plates and prominent bridges, most of which has been expertly carved away to allow for viewing of the entire movement including the wheel train and escapement. Peering further inside shows off the back of the dial which has been carefully patterned, and fire-struck blue to match the movement. All of the visible screws are genuine heat treated blue, NOT enamel coated. Also visible are 3 of the large ruby jewels, and the Incabloc shock protection (with another visible ruby jewel). Before the scrollwork was applied the overall movement was satin finished (I would assume by way of bead blasting) to give a clean, crisp look. By doing this you can see the scrollwork more defined as each groove of the engraving comes out more shiny than the rest of the movement. This is an elegant, and flawlessly executed skeletonization that will make any collector proud.

Standard Swiss Unitas Movement as exhibited in the Invicta Mod. 2103 Executive Unitas:

Here is the Russian Diver's Skeletonized Unitas:

OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: I had toyed with the idea of owning a watch this large from another manufacture, but at a selling price of $2300 I was unsure I would be comfortable enough with it to lay out that much money. With the Invicta however, it is easier due to the low price. For a true Swiss Made Watch with a Unitas movement so thoroughly reworked the price point will be a shocker. Slated to release in November of 2004 this will surely be a huge success for Invicta. While it is a niche crowd they are catering to on this model, it is a positive step for Invicta to not only show off their recent advancements in manufacturing in Switzerland, but also to call back to their heritage and remind us that L-U-P-A-H does not indeed spell INVICTA. If you are looking for an attention grabbing piece, and have no problem with people staring at you from across the room as if you sprouted another head... then this is the watch for you. A serious collector's dream, and a stroke to the ego of any "look at me" kind of watch guy, the Russian Diver will find a way into your heart. If not... it's big enough to break in on its own. __________________ Michael

Argument is meant to reveal the truth, not to create it. ~ Edward de Bono Invicta...in hoc nomen vinces!