Movement

Movement

Durov 7440 - A movement based on the Unitas 6498-1, Made in Germany.

Sample of a Tourby Watch using an ETA Unitas Movement with Blued Swan Neck

Sample of a Tourby 45mm Big Pilot Watch using Skeletonized ETA Unitas 6498 Movement

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ETA Unitas 6497/6498 Movement (information taken from Unitas Reference Site) Click here to Watch Gallery

ARSA pocket and wristwatches and UNITAS wristwatches were coveted for their

accuracy and appreciated for their affordability and style. Over the course of the 20th century, many travelers to Switzerland who owned these watches would travel by train to Tramelan to see the Manufacture Auguste Reymond and perhaps peer into the workshops to see the master watchmakers at work.

In the early 1930s, the Incabloc速 movement shock absorber was developed, and it revolutionized movement durability and maintaining accuracy. It was adopted by virtually all Swiss movement manufacturers. It has been refined over the decades since and is the premier method of protecting Swiss watches from severe shock. UNITAS incorporated the Incabloc速 system in their movements.

Among them is the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 pocketwatch movements designed in the 1950s. The 6497 and 6498 calibers became regarded as among the best pocketwatch movements ever designed for their ruggedness and accuracy.

Along with the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 movements, the company also developed braille wrist and pocket watches for the blind, and a line of "jumping hours" watches with unique hour indication on the dial which were also developed during the 1950s. The fifties, sixties and seventies were the golden decades of Swiss watchmaking when the industry experienced unprecedented prosperity. The August Reymond S.A. building had become landmark in Tramelan and one of the largest employers in the town. However, a technological revolution was brewing that would shake the Swiss watch industry to its foundations.

When SMH was formed in 1983, Ebauches SA became ETA SA Fabriques d'Ebauches. This proved vital to the survival of the watch industry with the onslaught of the quartz revolution in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Auguste Reymond S.A. however, did not survive the arrival of inexpensive and highly accurate quartz movements. Sales of mechanical watches plunged while watches with quartz movements soared. The company had to be liquidated and its assets sold off. The tools and related equipment for the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 pocketwatch movements were acquired by ETA. With the consolidation of the Swiss watch industry during this tumultuous period, many smaller watch companies closed their doors, unable to compete with inexpensive Japanese quartz movements. When Ebauches S.A. absorbed Unitas, Valljoux and other manufacturers within ETA S.A, many of the original ebauche names and calibre numbers were retained. That is why today, the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 calibers and the Valljoux 7750 and 7751 calibers manufactured by ETA still carry the name and caliber number of the original ebauche manufacturer.

Fortunately, James Choffat, a former manager of the company, managed to purchase much of the company's parts, movements, tools and equipment in an effort to keep the Auguste Reymond name alive. It was no longer feasible for the

surviving company to remain in the same building it had occupied since 1910.

Manufacturer Auguste Reymond moved from its original building to a smaller, more modern building in Tramelan and in 1989 the company was purchased by Nitella S.A. another watch factory in Tramelan. Today, it is under the direction of Thomas Loosli. Many of the newer models in the Auguste Reymond catalog are his designs.

The UNITAS 6497 (shown above) is experiencing a resurgence today as a movement for wristwatches. At a whopping 16.5 ligne, it requires a massive case--just the thing for those wanting a manly watch. Both the UNITAS 6497 and 6498 movements remain the premier movements for mechanical pocket watches. A couple of years ago, Auguste Reymond began to offer a limited edition series of wristwatches, using original, new old stock UNITAS movements that have been, in the words from their current catalog, "...thoroughly restaured, redecorated and individually numbered." The limited edition model for 1999 was the Ballad, using the UNITAS 6580 hand-wound movement manufactured in the 1960s with date at three oclock and small second hand at six oclock. The Ballad features a rectangular, sculpted case with round saphire caseback so the beautiful 17 jewel movement can be seen. Production was limited to 999 pieces.

The creativity and quality of August Reymond pocket watches and wristwatches will ensure this company will be around well into this new millennium. 

ETA automatic workhorses, the 2824 and 2892

ETA is the largest supplier of movements in Switzerland. Currently about 80% of Swiss watches have ETA movements. ETA is owned by the Swatch Group conglomerate. Eta was formed in 1983 with the merger of ASUAG and SSIH. Prior to that ETA was Ebauches SA which was an alliance of the top three players in Swiss mechanical movements: A. Schild SA (AS or ASSA), Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF) and A. Michel AG. Ebauches SA also absorbed another 31 ebauch producers.

ETA produces two automatic movements with date, models 2824 and 2892. They are very similar in design. Both are 25.6 mm in diameter, however the 2892 is almost 28% thinner, being 3.6mm thick versus 4.6mm for the 2824. Both movements are used by other movement manufacturers as the tractor (power base and time source) for many complications like triple date moon-phase, chronograph, big date, power reserve, etc.

The 2892 (2892-A2) seems to have been given priority by making it more efficient. Its oscillating weight is better engineered with a larger support for the ball bearing races, which gives it better shock protection. It is almost always finished nicely with perlage and Geneva stripes. This movement is used by many high-end brands. Often, high-end brands like IWC, Girard Perregaux and Frank Muller will assemble the movements in house and replace some of the critical parts from the escapement to the mainspring to gain tighter tolerances. ETA uses the 2892 as the tractor for other movements like the 2893 with a second time-zone hand and the 2894 chronograph.

The 2824 (2824/2) is no slouch itself. When regulated correctly it will keep just as good of time as the 2892. As mentioned, the main difference I see is that it is 1mm thicker than the 2892. One can order the watch finished as nicely as you are willing to pay. It has a strong mainspring and makes a great tractor for complication modules that are added to the top of the movement. This movement can be found in Tudors, Breitlings, Tag Heuers and many other brands.

How does a chronometer grade 2892 or 2824 compare to the competition? We think they keep equivalent time to a Rolex automatic. Some of the high-end brands we have experience with are actually more finicky, fragile and do not keep as good of time as the ETA and Rolex tried and true workhorses. These other watches often have wide

deviations in timekeeping depending on what position they are in. The ETAs and Rolexes are often within a few seconds from the slowest to the fastest deviation.

It is believed that ETA is going to stop making the 2824 and 2892 in 2008 and license other companies to make the movements under their own caliber movements. One company displayed their versions of the 2824 and 2892 at the Basel 2006 trade show. 

Valjoux 7750 Chronograph

Valjoux's manual wind chronograph movements were justifiably famous, but the introduction of Zenith's 'El Primero' automatic chronograph and Heuer's Calibre 11 automatic chronograph in 1969 created a sensation at the Basel fair that year. The small management team at Valjoux took due notice of this horological event and considered the possibility of designing an automatic chronograph. It was during this time frame that a young Edmond Capt graduated from the watchmaking school in Le Sentier with a specialty as a calibriste (one who builds prototype calibres). He then went on to study in Geneva and graduate in 1969 as a watchmaker engineer. He immediately went to work for Rolex, but stayed there only a year, no doubt feeling like a small fish in a big pond.

Capt wanted to put his skills and education to work, and accepted a position with Valjoux S.A. in Les Bioux in 1970. (photo: Edmond Capt, courtesy the Swatch Group) The technical director of Valjoux at the time discussed with Capt the desire of the company to produce an automatic chronograph. It was a matter of corporate pride that Valjoux have an automatic chronometer calibre of its own. The 17 jewel manual wind 7733 chronograph movement with subdials at 3 and 6 o'clock was a Valjoux standard of

accuracy and ruggedness, and a preferred movement for Breitling, Tissot, Bulova, Fortis and other makes. Capt was directed to study the 7733 to see if it could be adapted to automatic winding. Realistically speaking, this automatic chronometer would have to be a new design, but Capt studied the 7733 to see what parts and ebauche geometry could be used.

The new calibre designation would be 7750. It was to measure 13.25 ligne, have a day and date indication with quick setting for both. It was to have three subdials; one would be a sweep second hand, the others would indicate 30 minutes elapsed time, 12 hours elapsed time with a large sweep second hand indicating seconds on the main dial. It was a tall order for the young watchmaker and ebauche designer, but Capt had the resources of the house of Valjoux behind him. Capt had been one of Le Sentier's most distinguished and perceptive students and he was asked to teach at the watchmaking school. One is his students, Gerald Gander, showed particular promise and Capt asked him to participate in the design effort for the 7750 at Valjoux. Later, Donald Rochat joined the group. Finally, another Valjoux watchmaker and a young and skilled draftswoman rounded out the team.

For years, watch movements had been designed with traditional drafting methods.

Personal computers were still years away, but Valjoux did have a computer in Neuchatel in the office of the technical director. The drawings produced in Les Bioux were digitized in Neuchatel and the function of those parts checked on the computer. Capt had more to deal with than the design of the movement. He also had to work with the Valjoux manufacturing team to coordinate the tooling required to produce the parts once the designs were finalized, as well as work with outside suppliers. The 7750 had to be designed not only for the desired functions, accuracy and durability, it also had to be designed for speed and ease of manufacture. The design and development of the 7750 took two years. Strict methods of Valjoux development and testing were followed. The first complete 7750 movement to begin ticking at 28,800 beats per hour was an exciting moment for everyone at Valjoux.

Once the dedicated 7750 assembly areas were set up and the watch companies on board to purchase movements for their new watch designs, Valjoux began assembling and shipping 7750s in 1973. Interest in the 7750 began to grow and the watch companies made sure to extol the virtues of the Valjoux 7750 in its sales literature and advertisements. However, the entire Swiss industry was headed for disaster.

Development of quartz movements was well-known, and certain firms in Switzerland itself had been working on electric and quartz movements since 1962. In fact, Ebauches S.A.'s Beta 21 quartz movement first appeared in Swiss watches in 1970. The Swiss watch industry, however, could not foresee the severe impact introduction of primarily Japanese quartz movement sales worldwide would have on the Swiss mechanical watch industry.

By 1975, Swiss watch companies were really starting to feel the impact on their mechanical watch sales. Valjoux, Lemania, ETA and other movement manufacturers saw their sales plummet as demand for quartz watches took off. Quartz watches were

highly accurate and significantly less expensive than mechanical watches. Sales of Valjoux's movements came to a standstill, including the 7750. Small watch companies were closing their doors and the larger established watch companies were struggling to survive. Mechanical chronographs were among the most expensive Swiss watches made in the late 1970s, and demand for the 7750 dwindled. Valjoux management considered the possibility that the mechanical Swiss watch might be relegated to a curiosity and of interest only to watch collectors. Switzerland's watch industry had survived other crises, and cooler heads realized there would always be a market for the marvelous mechanical movement.

Valjoux, nevertheless, chose to stop production of the 7750 and directed the tools be scrapped since there would be no use for them. Edmond Capt was one of those cooler heads, believing scraping the tools would be a mistake and a decision Valjoux would regret later. He and the others in Les Bioux who had invested considerable effort in the 7750 quietly made the decision to simply store the tooling for the 7750 in the event of a decision to resume production at a future day. What a prophetic and wonderful decision this was! In 1978, Capt accepted a position as Technical Director at Frederic Piquet in Le Brassus to work on both quartz and mechanical movements. Valjoux continued to manufacture manual wind mechanical movements but at greatly reduced production.

In the early 1980s a curious thing happened. Demand for mechanical chronographs--both manual wind and automatic-- began to grow again. Valjoux management learned tooling for its automatic chronograph had never been scrapped and decided it should resume production of the 7750. During the 1980s and 1990s production of the 7750 continued to grow and has remained strong ever since. It became the basis of numerous variations since resumption of production and it can safely be said it is the most popular mechanical chronograph movement today with more than 200,000 units manufactured by ETA each year. However, success of the 7750 did impact demand for manual wind chronograph movements. Production of the 7733 and 7734, for example, were eventually halted.

Today, the ebauche stamp on the 7750 is that of ETA, not Valjoux. The company itself was eventually completely absorbed into the ETA S.A. corporate structure. On ETA's website, Valjoux does appear in the location of its manufactures for Les Bioux. Admirers of Valjoux movements will always equate the company's calibres with the name Valjoux. 

Erhard Junghans Calibre J325

The newly developed Caliber J325 is characterized by the distinctive, hand-engraved balance-wheel bridge, which also carries the special Erhard Junghans fine adjustment with the delicately interlocking elements of regulator and regulator tail lever, the eccentric tappet and the regulator spring in the company's traditional shape. The ratchet precisely executed, the screwed gold settings, the blued screws, plus the angled and polished edges on wheel and caliber triple bridge with "C么tes de Gen猫ve finish on crown wheel and ratchet wheel are testimony to the new movement's claim of measuring up to The finest manufactures.

Type: Frequency: Dimensions: Height: Adjustment: Winding: Power autonomy: Display: Finishing:

form movement 4 Hz (28.800 vibrations per hour) 28.4 mm x 25.6 mm 4.00 mm Erhard Junghans precision adjustment Hand-winding > 48 hours hours, minutes hand-engraved balance bridge, stripe finish on wheel bridge and bridge caliber, sunray-brushed Ratched wheel and crown wheel, angled edges, gold chatons screwed, blued screws, base plate with perlage

Jewels:

18

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Erhard Junghans Calibre J890 Chronoscope

The J890 automatic chronograph movement also achieves a 50-hour power reserve with its bi-directionally winding rotor, but it not only displays hours and minutes, seconds and the date. The power reserve display, the chronoscope feature with stopwatch, and the 30 minute and 12-hour timers complete the overall impression of a movement that redefines mechanical precision and attention to detail.

Type: Frequency: Diameter: Height: Adjustment: Winding: Power reserve: Display:

chronograph with intermediate wheel 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) 28.00 mm (12 lines) 7.27 mm excentric bi-directional (ratchet winding mechanism) 50 hours (excluding chronograph function) hours, minutes, small second at 9 o’clock, date, power reserve at 3

Finishing: Jewels:

o’clock chronograph: central stop second 30-minute timer at 12 o’clock 12-hour timer at 6 o’clock "Côtes de Genève" finishing on bridges and rotor, blued screws 41

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Erhard Junghans Calibre J830.5 Power Reserve

The bi-directionally winding rotor inside the J830.5 automatic movement features a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, with a balance wheel frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The display shows besides hours, minutes and seconds the power reserve, complemented by a date at the 3-o’clock position. The traditional design of the wheel bridge adapts the look of its historical predecessors to a new and contemporary interpretation.

Type: Frequency:

automatic with power reserve indification 4 Hz (28.800 semi-vibrations/hour)

Diameter: Height: Adjustment: Winding: Power reserve: Display: Finishing: Jewels:

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28.00 mm (12 lines) 5.39 mm excentric bi-directional (ratchet winding mechanism) 50 hours hours, minutes, date, small second at 9 o’clock, power reserve at 3 o’clock “Côtes de Genève” finishing on bridges and rotor, blued screws 34

Erhard Junghans Calibre J830 Automatik

The bi-directionally winding rotor inside the J830 automatic movement features a power reserve of approximately 50 hours, with a balance wheel frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The display shows hours, minutes, and seconds, complemented by a date at the 3-o’clock position. The traditional design of the wheel bridge adapts the look of its historical predecessors to a new and contemporary interpretation.

Type: Frequency: Diameter: Height: Adjustment: Winding: Power reserve: Display: Finishing: Jewels: 

Automatic 4 Hz (28.800 semi-vibrations/hour) 28.00 mm (12 lines) 5.44 mm excentric bi-directional (ratchet winding mechanism) 50 hours hours, minutes, central second, date "Côtes de Genève" finishing on bridges and rotor, blued screws 28

Nomos Movements

Alpha Movement Manufactory caliber Diameter 10 1/2 lines (23.3 mm); height 2.6 mm; power reserve circa 43 h Stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, Triovis fine adjustment regulator (adjusted in six positions)

Balance spring made from Nivarox 1A, 17 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, blue tempered screws, Glashütte sunburst on ratchet and crown wheel, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS-Perlage

Beta Movement Manufactory caliber Diameter 14 1/2 lines (32.15 mm); height 2.8 mm; power reserve circa 42 h Date indicator, stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, Triovis fine adjustment regulator (adjusted in six positions) Balance spring made from Nivarox 1A, 23 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, blue tempered screws, Glashütte sunburst on ratchet and crown wheel, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS-Perlage

Delta Movement Manufactory caliber Diameter 14 1/2 lines (32.15 mm); height 2.8 mm; power reserve circa 42 h Date indicator, power reserve indicator in red or black, stop-seconds mechanism, Glash端tte three-quarter plate, Glash端tte stopwork, Triovis fine adjustment regulator (adjusted in six positions) Balance spring made from Nivarox 1A, 23 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, blue tempered screws, Glash端tte sunburst on ratchet and crown wheel, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glash端tte ribbing and NOMOS-Perlage

Epsilon Movement Manufactory caliber Diameter 13 3/4 lines (31 mm); height 4.3 mm; power reserve circa 43 h Stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, bidirectional winding rotor, Triovis fine adjustment regulator (adjusted in six positions) Balance spring made from Nivarox 1A, 26 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, blue tempered screws, Glashütte sunburst on ratchet and crown wheel, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS-Perlage (Inside Zürich, Epsilon can be found in black gold - an elegant, dark gray alloy with a high percentage of gold.)

Zeta Movement Manufactory caliber Diameter 13 3/4 lines (31 mm); height 4.3 mm; power reserve circa 42 h Date indicator, stop-seconds mechanism, Glashütte three-quarter plate, Glashütte stopwork, bidirectional winding rotor, Triovis fine adjustment regulator (adjusted in six positions) Balance spring made from Nivarox 1A, 26 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, blue tempered screws, Glashütte sunburst on ratchet and crown wheel, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glashütte ribbing and NOMOS-Perlage (Inside Zürich, Zeta can be found in black gold - an elegant, dark gray alloy with a high percentage of gold.)

Gamma Movement Manufactory caliber Diameter 10 1/2 lines (23.3 mm); height 2.8 mm; power reserve circa 43 h With power reserve indicator in red or black, stop-seconds mechanism, Glash端tte threequarter plate, Glash端tte stopwork, Triovis fine adjustment regulator (adjusted in six positions) Balance spring made from Nivarox 1A, 17 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, blue tempered screws, Glash端tte sunburst on ratchet and crown wheel, rhodium-plated movement surfaces with Glash端tte ribbing and NOMOS-Perlage

Sonnenuhr Movement Manufactory caliber Stainless steel with date indication ring Height 10 mm; inside diameter 19 mm, can be worn either on your finger or with a leather string around your neck This is how it works: 1. Position the sundial so the sun shines onto it 2. Set the correct date in the middle ring on the hole 3. Let the sundial hang freely from the thread, with the hole towards the sun 4. A ray of sun on the inside of the ring shows the correct time 

Glossary

(information from Professional Watches)

ALARM function that sounds an alarm at a pre-set time or at regular intervals.

ALTIMETER function that determines altitude based on changes in barometric pressure. In a pressurized airplane cabin, the altimeter registers as if on land. A rotating bezel is used to determine altitude.

ANALOG watch with a dial, hands, and numbers or markers that display a 12-hour time period.

ANALOG DIGITAL has both a digital display and hands of a conventional analog watch.

ANCHOR ESCAPEMENT a feedback regulator that controls the speed of a mechanical clock.

A/m (ANTI-MAGNETIC) unaffected by magnetism. If the parts most affected by a magnetic field (balance, balance spring and escapement) are made of non-magnetic materials the watch is called anti-magnetic. Bomb squad experts require this type of watch.

APERTURE small opening in the dial that displays certain information such as date, day, month, or moon phase.

APPLIQUE numerals or symbols cut out and stuck to dial.

ARMORED CRYSTAL a plastic crystal installed by compressing it to fit into a groove in the face of the watchcase, instead of cementing it into place. What distinguishes an armored crystal from a common snap crystal is a ring of metal at the base, meant to hold the crystal firmly in place.

ASSEMBLING process of fitting the components of a movement. Formerly done entirely by hand, but now mainly by machine.

ASTHOMETER function on a chronograph for measuring the rate of respiration.

ATM a measurement of pressure called an atmosphere. An atmospheric measure is the amount of air pressure at sea level that a watch can withstand. (1ATM= 1BAR= 10m= 33.3ft) ATOMIC TIME Atomic Time Standard is provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology, Time and Frequency Division in Boulder Colorado. Atomic time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles mercury.

The result is extremely accurate time that can be measured on instruments. Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout North America. Atomic watches and clocks can receive the signal.

AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT self-winding watch whose movement is mechanical. A weight (the rotor) turns by the motion of your arm and winds the mainspring. The energy generated by the movement is transferred into mechanical energy that creates the movement. These watches can be shaken or manually wound if the power reserve runs out.

AUTO REPEAT TIMER function that counts down time and then resets itself as soon as a preset time has elapsed. It repeats the countdown continuously until a button is pressed to stop the function.

BALANCE mechanical watches are regulated with the balance and balance spring. The mainspring provides energy. The hairspring, coupled to the balance, makes it swing to and fro, dividing into equal parts. Each to and fro of the balance is called oscillation. One oscillation equals 2 vibrations. (Heart of the mechanical watch) BALANCE SPRING the (hair spring) is attached to the balance and cock, and made of metal alloys. Its length determines the amount that the balance regularly oscillates: the shorter the spring the faster the watch runs. It returns the balance wheel back to a neutral position.

BALANCE WHEEL regulating organ of the watch, vibrating on a spiral hairspring.

Lengthening and shortening of the balance spring makes the balance wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard the watch.

BAR thin metal rod fixed between the horns that attaches the bracelet or strap to the watch. Also called a lug or spring bar.

BARREL cylindrical box containing the mainspring of a watch. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.

BARREL SPRING this spring's tension controls the amount of energy transmitted to the measurement. Hooked to the barrel and arbor, when it is tensed it releases energy.

BEAT the number of times per second (BPS) or per hour (BPH) that a balance wheel goes through a full arc of motion or the vibrations per hour (VpH) (half oscillation, or "tick") of a movement.

BEVEL furrow or groove cut at an angle that is either over or under, but not equal to 90 degrees.

BEZEL the ring around the top of the crystal. Generally hold the glass or crystal in place.

A rotating ratchet bezel moves in some watches as part of a complication. Rotating bezels either rotate clockwise, counter clockwise, or both to assist in calculations.

BI-DIRECTIONAL BEZEL a bezel that both clockwise and counter clockwise.

BOTTOM PLATE supports the bridges, which are often on the top of the plate, the movement, the dial, and the holes where the jewels are inserted.

BRACELET metal linked watchband.

BRAILLE WATCH crystal can be lifted. The numerals protrude allowing the time to be told by feel for visually impaired. Also called a "tact" watch.

BRIDGE the balance cock is attached to the bottom plate with pins. Fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch.

BUTTONS push piece controls, usually at 2'oclock and/or 4'oclock on the dial to control specific functions such as the chronograph or the alarm.

CALENDAR a simple calendar is a complication that shows the date of the month. A day/date shows the date of the month and the day of the week. A complete calendar shows the day, date, and the month or moon phase.

CALIBER the size and configuration of a watch movement. The diameter of the movement measured in "Parisian lines," where 1=2.256mm.

CAMBERED curved or arched dial or bezel.

CASE container protecting the dial and movement consisting of the case band, case back, and bezel.

CASEBACK bottom of the watch that lies against your skin.

CHAMFERING beveling the edges of bridges or screws.

CHRONOGRAPH stopwatch function that uses sub dials to keep track of second, minutes, and hours.

CHRONOMETER A chronometer is a high-precision watch capable of displaying the seconds and housing a movement that has been tested over several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body (COSC). Each chronometer is unique, identified by a number engraved on its movement and a certification number given by the COSC. Each movement is individually tested for several consecutive days, in 5 positions and at 3 temperatures. Each movement is individually measured. Any watch with the denomination "chronometer" is provided with a certified movement.

CLASP a deployment buckle is a 3 folding enclosure that secures the 2 ends of the bracelet (fold over buckle, butterfly clasp). hook lock buckle is 2 separate units that fit on either end of the bracelet and allows the watch to be laid flat (eweler's clasp, sliding clasp).

COLUMN WHEEL upright castle shaped wheel in a chronograph that acts as a sliding link to operate the various levers that set the chronograph functions in motion, generally more accurate type of chronograph.

COMPLICATION any "function" added to a watch, such as a minute repeater, countdown timer, stop watch, altimeter, asthometer, pulsometer, calendar, moon phase indicator, split second chronograph, power reserve indicator, alarm, etc.

C.O.S.C. Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) they test watches for several consecutive days, in 5 positions and at 3 temperatures. They either pass or fail the watch movement. If the watch passes it is certified as a "chronometer".

COUNTDOWN TIMER function which measures time remaining in preset period of time.

CROWN knob used to wind a mechanical watch and to set the time and/or calendar of a watch.

CRYSTAL the crystal is the cover the protects the face of the watch and allows you to see the dial. Most high-end watches use mineral glass or a synthetic sapphire crystal.

Tempered mineral glass is 10 times harder than plexiglass, but cannot be buffed out if scratched. Synthetic sapphire crystals are nearly scratchproof, although they are extremely brittle and easy to shatter. They are 2-3 times harder than a mineral crystal and 20 times harder than plexigalss. Although plexiglass is sometimes required due to it's impact resistance, for example the brand name Hesalite crystal is used in Omegas' Moon watch because of it's resistance to temperature changes, high pressure, and force. Another non traditional brand name crystal is Sapphlex which is a combination saphhire and hardlex crystal.

CYCLOPS small lens on the crystal to magnify the date.

DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME adopted around WWI it is used to utilize more daylight hours in the spring and summer for daytime activities. It is also a fuel saving measure.

DEPTH ALARM a complication on a diver's watch that sounds an alarm when the wearer exceeds pre-set depth. The alarm stops when the diver ascends above pre-set depth.

DIAL face of the watch showing hours, minutes, and sometimes seconds.

DIGITAL watch that uses an LCD or LED to display a continuous reading.

DIRECT DRIVE seconds hand advances in intervals rather than a smooth sweeping motion.

DIRECTIONAL COMPASS function that uses the sun to determine the geographical direction.

DISPLAY BACK also called a skeleton back it is a caseback that is transparent so that movement may be viewed.

DIVE WATCH designed especially for divers whose lives depend on the reliability of their watch in the water.

DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) a metal coating that produces a grey/black finish that is very scratch resistant and corrosion resistant. This type of coating is like PVD, but even harder.

DUAL TIME ZONE measures local time as well as time in another time zone.

EBAUCHE (raw movement) unassembled movement, without escapement, balance, hairspring, or mainspring.

END OF ENERGY the end of energy in a "mechanical" watch is indicated by the seconds hand, which jumps every 2, 3, or 4 seconds.

END OF LIFE the end of battery life in a "quartz" watch is indicated by the seconds hand, which jumps every 2, 3, or 4 seconds.

ESCAPEMENT mechanism made up of the escapement wheel, lever, and discharging roller, which act to control the wheel movement and to provide pulses to pallets and thus the balance. The most important part of the watch. Converts the energy of the mainspring into equal units of time. The escapement controls the amount of power released from the mainspring. The regularity is controlled by the balance and it's spring. The escapement controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands. It is fitted at the end of the gear train and is designed to interrupt the movement of thee wheels at regular intervals.

ESCAPE WHEEL a lever escapement this is the last gear in the gear train.

ETA leading manufacturer in Switzerland for movements used in many Swiss watch brands.

EQUATION OF TIME difference between clock time and the defined position of the sun.

EQUATOR line of latitude located halfway between the North and the South Pole.

EXHIBITION BACK same as a "skeleton" or "display" back.

FEET commonly used to measure water resistance.

FINE TIME ADJUSTMENT lever to adjust the daily time accurately.

FIVE-MINUTE REPEATER a function that strikes the hours and five-minute intervals past the hour.

FLANGE ring that separates the crystal from the dial.

FLYBACK function that allows a chronograph to be reset to zero without having to stop the chronograph first.

FOUDROYANTE small dial that is marked 0-8. The hand on the dial completes a sweep every second which is an elapsed time of 1/8th of second for each number.

FREQUENCY number of vibrations a second or oscillations per second, in hertz (Hz) of a quartz watch. The number of vibrations per hour (VpH) of a mechanical watch.

FULL ROTOR automatic watches with rotors that travel 360 degrees in both directions.

FUNCTION the same as a complication on a mechanical watch, but technically called a function on a quartz watch.

FUSEE grooved pulley that equalizes the mainspring by controlling its winding or unwinding.

GASKET most water resistant watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the caseback, crystal, and crown from water. Gaskets need to be checked every couple of years to maintain water resistance.

GENEVA SEAL quality seal the displays the City of Geneva coat of arms. Watches must meet eleven strict criteria to be awarded the Geneva seal.

GLUCYDUR copper and glucinum stainless, non-magnetic alloy used in watch making for internal parts. Anit-magnetic alloy that expands very little when exposed to heat.

(Used for balances) GMT Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), a watch that has the capability of displaying two different time zones.

GOING TRAIN made up of the going barrel, which drive the center wheel. The center wheel drives the third wheel then the 3rd wheel drives the second wheel. The second wheel drives the escapement wheel. It is the system of gears that transmits power from the mainspring to the escapement.

GUILLOCHE decoration found on the dials of high-end watches.

HACKING a feature that stops the second hand when the stem is pulled out as far as it will go and allows you to set the exact time.

HAIRSPRING the (hair spring) is attached to the balance and cock, and made of metal alloys. Its length determines the amount that the balance regularly oscillates: the shorter the spring the faster the watch runs. It returns the balance wheel back to a neutral position.

HALLMARK a mark stamped into the case of the watch to provide information about the degree of purity of the metal used, the country of origin, the country of origin, the year of manufacture, the identity of the case's maker, trademarks, reference numbers, and/or serial numbers.

HAND watches generally have three hands for seconds, minutes, and hours. They come in many different shapes: Pear, Breguet, Baton, Arrow, Skeleton, Luminous, Alpha, Dauphine, etc.

HAND-WOUND WATCH a watch that receives energy by hand winding the crown.

HARDBACK a solid metal caseback.

HARD METAL scratch resistant metal comprised of binding several materials, including titanium and tungsten which are then pressed into an extremely hard metal and polished with diamond powder to add brilliance.

HELIUM ESCAPE VALVE a helium escape valve is required for divers who spend a long time in hyperbaric chambers and breath helium enriched gas. The helium molecules are lighter than air and can therefore penetrate the watch. When a pressurized enclosure, such as a diving bell, surfaces and is depressurized the helium rushes out of the watch so quickly that the crystal on the watch pops out. To avoid this the helium escape valve releases this helium from the watch while resurfacing. This allows helium to escape without water entering the watch.

HESALITE brand name acrylic crystal. Omega chose "Hesalite" for the crystal on their moon watch because of its resistance to shocks and extreme temperatures.

HIGH-TECH CERAMIC used as a shield for spacecraft reentering the earth's atmosphere, high tech ceramic is polished with diamond dust to create a highly polished finish. Usually found in black.

HORNS part of the case where the bracelet is attached by lugs or pins.

HOROLOGY science of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces.

INCABLOC a brand of shock absorber for mechanical watches designed to protect pinions or jewels.

INDEX instead of a number, a marking indicating the hour and/or minutes.

INTERNAL BEZEL a bezel inside the watch case usually with a separate or additional crown.

INVAR special alloy related to beryllium and used for watch parts because it is antimagnetic and resists rust.

JEWELS synthetic sapphires or rubies that are used in a watch movement to reduce friction. They help maintain the watch's lubrication.

JULIAN CALENDAR Julius Caesar introduced a calendar with 12 months and 365 days. Previously the calendar had 10 months of 30 days each. The Julian calendar introduced "leap year" stating that a day would be added to the calendar every 4 years.

That is required because there are roughly 365.25 days in a year.

JUMP HOUR a spring that causes a hand or other part of a watch to suddenly advance.

A jump hour watch displays the hour through a dial window.

LAP TIMER a chronograph function that times segments of a race. At the end of a lap a push button stops the time and then returns to zero to time the next lap.

LEAP YEAR an extra day every 6 years Feb 29.

LEVER ESCAPEMENT 18th century invention which is made up of an escape wheel, a lever, and a balance wheel, the only one now used in making mechanical watches.

LIGNE traditional unit of measurement used to measure the diameter of watch movements.

LUG (same as horn) part of case where bracelet or strap is attached.

LUMINOUS PAINT self-illuminating paint that is put on the hands and markers to read the time in low light situations.

MAIN PLATE the base plate on which all other parts of a watch movement are mounted.

MAIN SPRING the driving flat-coiled spring of a watch contained in the barrel, supplies power.

MANUAL-WINDING a hand wound mechanical watch.

MANUFACTURE factory that makes its' own components and assembles at least one complete movement (caliber). A manufacture produces the movement and then assembles it.

MARINE CHRONOMETER a highly accurate timepiece enclosed in a box that is used for determining the longitude on board a ship. A marine chronometer is mounted on gimbals so that they remain in a horizontal position to maintain their precision.

MECHANICAL describes a movement with a balance wheel. Wound by hand or rotor.

Dates back to the 14th century about 130 parts plus 60 for complications.

METER a measurement used to measure water resistance. (10m= 33.3ft= 1ATM= 1BAR) MINERAL GLASS glass that has been tempered to resist scratching.

MINUTE REPEATER a function on a watch that can strike the time in hours, quarters, or seconds by means of a push piece.

MOON PHASE shows: new moon, first quarter moon, full moon, and last quarter moon by means of a disk that rotates beneath a small aperture. The 29 and 1/2 day cycle of the moon.

MOVEMENT the "motor" of a watch or the machinery that turn the hands, change the date, start/stop the chronograph. There are two classifications of movement, either mechanical or quartz electronic.

NON-MAGNETIC see anti-magentic.

NON SCREW LOCKED CROWN easier to set than a screw locked crown, but it is less water resistant.

OSCILLATING SYSTEM hairspring and balance form the oscillating system. Two vibrations of the balance make the tick-tack sound of a mechanical watch known as oscillation. The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back again.

PALLADIUM a rare and lustrous metal that is slightly whiter than platinum and slightly harder. It is part of the platinum group of metals. Palladium is tarnish resistant, electrically stable and resistant to chemical erosion as well as intense heat.

PALLET meshes with the teeth of the escapement wheel and transmits an impulse to the balance.

PEDOMETER function that counts the number of strides taken by the wearer.

PULSIMETER a chronograph with an extra dial or timer that gives the rate of pulse per minute.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR extremely elaborate complication that keeps track of the day, month, date, and sometimes even the moon phase, zodiac signs, decade, century, and which adjusts for the length of the month and for leap years. (Accurate until 2100) PINION toothed wheel usually made of steel with a small number of teeth.

PLATE metal piece that holds up the bridge and other parts of the movement. The bottom side is the dial side the top side is the bridge side.

PLATINUM one of the rarest precious metals as well as one of the strongest and heaviest.

PLEXIGLASS a clear lightweight type of plastic. Used for watch crystals it is least likely to shatter and most likely to scratch.

POINTER CALENDAR hands point to the date as opposed to appearing in an aperture.

POLISHED brilliant meal surface obtained on the watchcase with a fine abrasive.

POWER RESERVE INDICATOR a sub dial used to show how much power remains before the watch stops.

PULSOMETER scale on the dial or bezel of a watch that works in conjunction with the seconds hand to measure pulse rate. A reference number tells how many pulse beats to count. If the reference number is 15, the operator counts 15 pulse beats. At the last beat the seconds hand shows the pulse beat per minute.

PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) method of coating watch cases by integrating titanium particles and then depositing gold for color. (Usually comes in black finish) QUARTZ a natural or synthetic silicon dioxide crystal used in quartz analog or solid state digital watches when activated by a battery or solar power, the thin silver of the crystal very predictably vibrates at an extremely high frequency (32,768 times per second) step motor, electric circuit block.

QUICK SET DATE mechanism to set the date directly to avoid having to turn the hands over 24 hours.

RADIO CONTROLLED WATCH quartz watch that is controlled by a radio signal from a cesium atomic clock.

RATCHET BEZEL RING bezel ring which can either turn one way or both ways and generally clicks into place.

RATTRAPANTE addition of a second hand to measure split times.

REGULATOR device inside a watch that speeds it up or slows it down to allow the more precise setting of the watch.

REPEATER strikes the hour, half hour, minutes, seconds, or some combination of the two.

RETROGRADE mechanism that lets a hand quickly return to its original position, usually used to return to one after 60 seconds.

REVERSO dual dial reversible watch.

ROTOR part of an automatic watch that winds the mainspring. A flat piece of metal swivels on a pivot with the motion of the wrist. Its rotation continually winds the mainspring of the watch. It turns freely in both directions and uses the force of gravity to wind the mainspring. Some rotors only turn in one direction or less than 360 degrees.

Each time it moves it advances the ratchet wheel, which keeps the spring wound.

RUBIES ruby is a very hard stone usually synthetic, which prevents the wear of gear train parts. Also called jewels.

SAPPHIRE synthetic corundum crystal with a hardness second only to a diamond.

Transparent sapphire is used for a scratchproof watch glass. Made of crystallizing aluminum oxide at very high temperatures. Chemically the same as natural sapphire, but colorless. It is hard and brittle so it shatters easier than plexiglass or mineral glass. 9 on a mohs scale, a diamond is 10.

SCREW BACK caseback has a thread so that it can be screwed into the case.

SCREW DOWN CROWN seals the crown against the case to prevent water penetration.

SEAL synthetic gaskets that seal the joints between parts of the case and keep out the water.

SHOCK ABSORBERS spring devices in balance wheel bearings that divert shocks away from the fragile pivot to the sturdier parts of the balance staff. The springs allow the balance wheel to return to its original position after shocks.

SHOCK RESISTANCE ability to withstand accidental fall or shocks without being damaged.

SHOT BLASTING a satin finish obtained by using tiny glass pellets, one or two microns in diameter.

SKELETON MOVEMENT movement on a watch where the plates have been removed or trimmed so that you can see the gears and other parts.

SKELETON WATCH crystal on the front and back.

SLIDE RULE BEZEL a rotating bezel that is printed with a logarithmic scale and assorted other scales and is used in conjunction with fixed rules of mathematics to perform general mathematical calculations or navigational computations.

SOLAR POWERED batteries are recharged via solar panels on the watch face. (Citizen ECO-Drive) SPLIT-SECOND CHRONOGRAPH a split seconds chronograph or rattrapante (catch up in French) or doppelchrono (double chrono is German) has two seconds hands, the first push starts both hands together, the second push stops one hand while the other continues, and another push allows the stopped hand to catch up with the moving seconds.

SPRING BAR a spring loaded metal bar mounted between the case lugs used to attach the strap or bracelet.

STAINLESS STEEL extremely durable metal alloy consisting of steel, nickel, and composed mainly of chromium. It is virtually rustproof. It is also antimagnetic.

STANDARD TIME the time that is kept locally in each time zone when daylight savings time is not in use.

STEM the shaft that connects to the movement's winding mechanism, the crown is fitted to the opposite end.

STOP SECOND (same as hacking) crown which can be pulled out to set the seconds on a watch accurately.

STOP WATCH a watch with a seconds hand that measures intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into a standard watch, both the stopwatch function and the timepiece are referred to as a chronograph.

SUB DIALS auxiliary dials.

SUMMER SOLSTICE the summer solstice is the longest day of the year.

SUPER ACCURATE a watch that is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year. A technology that uses quartz crystal oscillators working with an integrated circuit, assuring up to 10 times more accuracy than a conventional quartz watch.

SUPERLUMINOVA photo-luminescent non-radioactive material with a long period of phosphorescence.

SWISS MADE legally protected indication of Swiss origin. Under terms of the Swiss Federal Council ordinance of December 23, 1971, it can apply only to watches with: Swiss Movement -Assembled in Switzerland -Final inspection must be done in Switzerland SWISS MOVEMENT in order for a watch to state that it has Swiss Movement it must: be assembled in Switzerland -be tested in Switzerland -have 50% of the parts from Swiss origin TACHOMETER instrument for measuring speed over a measured distance. A racing car covers 1 mile in 30 seconds. The sweep second hand, when stopped at the end of the mile, would point to the 120 on the tachometer. The average speed in 120mph. Counts the number of rotations to see how fast you travel over a measured distance.

TANTALUM a grey, heavy, and very hard metal. Tantalum is used to make avariety of alloys at high melting point and high strength. Tantalum is completely immune to body liquids and is a non-irrititating material.

TELEMETER stopwatch or chronograph function with a scale that measures the distance of something from the wearer of the watch through the amount of time it takes for sound to travel.

TIDEGRAPH tides are the periodic rise and fall of the water of oceans, seas, bays and other bodies of water caused mainly by the gravitational interactions between the Earth, Moon and Sun. Tides rise and fall about every six hours. The tide graph indicates tidal movement based on the Moon's transit over the meridian and the lunitidal interval. (Also called Tide Function) TIME ZONE the world is divided into 24 time zones spaced at intervals of 15 degrees in longitude. The zones start at 0 with Greenwich. Within each time zone, the hour and minute of the day is defined to be the same. Time zones are usually specified by the number of hours they differ from GMT. EST is GMT 5 hours.

TITANIUM a metal, gray in color, that is used for watch cases and bracelets. Much stronger and lighter than stainless steel and hypo-allergenic. It is 30% stronger and 50% lighter than steel. It is very resistant to salt water corrosion makes it useful in divers watches although since it can be scratched easily some manufacturers use a coating to resist scratching.

TITANIUM CARBIDE a black treatment, like DLC, it is very scratch resistant, and it is harder than PVD. TOURBILLON eliminates errors of rate due to earth's gravity of vertical positions. "whirlwind" a complex mechanism requiring the highest watch making skills: consists of a mobile carriage carrying all the parts of the escapement. It is a regulating device which

connects for the gravity-caused differences in run time in a mechanical watch. (Shifts of weight) TRAIN the series of wheels in a watch: center wheel, third wheel, fourth wheel, and escape wheel.

TRIPLE DATE CALENDAR complication that provides month, day and date.

TRITIUM a slightly radioactive substance that collects light and is used to allow the hands or hour markers to glow in the dark. The radiation is so low that there is no health risk. Watches with tritium must be marked with the letter T on the dial near the 6'oclock.

UNI-DIRECTIONAL BEZEL a bezel that rotates only one way.

VPH (Vibrations Per Hour) movement of a pendulum limited by 2 extreme positions.

The balance of a mechanical watch generally makes 5 or 6 vibrations per second (18,00021,600 per hour.) A high frequency watch makes 8-10 vibrations per second (25,200 28,800 36000 per hour) The higher the number the smoother and more accurately the watch will run.

WATERPROOF no watch is 100% waterproof.

WATER RESISTANT water resistance is reduced by age, wear, extreme temperatures and high pressure. Water resistance is measured 4 ways where 1ATM= 1 BAR = 10m = 33.3ft In order to maintain stated water resistance the gaskets that seal out water must be checked and replaced regularly. 3 ATM or 3 BAR (30m or 100ft) can withstand gentle splash such as rain 5ATM or 5 BAR (50 or 165ft) suitable for showering or light moisture 10ATM or 10 BAR (100m or 330ft) swimming or snorkeling 15ATM or 15BAR (150m or 500ft) suitable swimming, snorkeling and low diving 20ATM or 20BAR (200m or 660ft) suitable for swimming, diving and high board diving 30ATM or 30BAR (300m or 990ft) suitable for swimming, diving and high board diving 100ATM or 100BAR (1000m or3300ft) suitable for deep sea diving WHEEL pinion circular part revolving an axis to transmit power or motion. Center wheel, front wheel, hour wheel, minute wheel, third wheel, transmission wheel.

WORLD TIME WATCH 24 different time zones that can display the current time in any part of the world.

YACHT TIMER a countdown timer that sounds warning signals during the countdown to a boat race. 

Some samples of Unitas 6497 and 6498 movement deco