International Watch Middle East by WATCHOOGLE

WATCH

International

Since 1990

middle east

EXCLUSIVE • • • •

Rolex Rare Dials Starting a Collection Vintage Watches Collectible Trio

‫ﻏﺮاﻫــﺎم‬ ‫ا ﺛﺎرة ﻣﻄﻠﻮﺑﺔ‬

‫ﺑﺎﺗﻴﻚ ﻓﻴﻠﻴﺐ‬

Grandmaster ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫أوﻟﻴﺲ ﻧﺎردﻳﻦ‬

‫درﺟﺎت ﻣﺘﻨﺎﻏﻤﺔ‬

Bird Repeater Geneva

EXCEPTIONAL ANIMATIONS

ACCURACY TAKEN TO NEW DEPTHS

PATRAVI SCUBATEC Discover the world 500 meters below its surface. The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s watch offers a multi adjustable clasp and an automatic helium release valve to ensure ultimate comfort and worry free equalization of pressure. Created with the highest grade of stainless steel, its rugged ceramic bezel and blue illuminated hands and dial markers ensure perfect readability, even at the deepest depths. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

FEBRUARY 24 - 28, 2015 QATAR NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTER AL MAJED PAVILLION

MARCH 19 - 26, 2015 HALL 1.1 - STAND E-09

NEW YORK

WWW.BAYCO.COM

Oris Audi Sport Limited Edition Automatic mechanical chronograph Titanium case with Tungsten top ring Special linear display for the small second Limited to 2000 pieces www.oris.ch

real watches for real people

cOntEntS

since 1990

COVER STORY

123

E 16 20 22 24 26 28 34 38 40 42 48 50

February - March 2015

‫ﺑﺎﺗﻴﻚ ﻓﻴﻠﻴﺐ وأﻏﻨﻴﺔ ﻋﻴﺪ ﻣﻴﻼد اﻟﺪار‬ Chopard ‫ ﻣﻦ‬L.U.C ‫ﺟﺪﻳﺪان ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ‬ ‫ا ﺛﺎرة ﻣﻄﻠﻮﺑﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻏﺮاﻫﺎم‬ ‫ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻮن وﻣﻜ ّﺮر دﻗﺎﺋﻖ ﻣﻦ ﻫﻮﺑﻠﻮ‬ ‫راق وﺗﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴﺎ ﻣﺘﻘﺪﻣﺔ‬ ٍ ‫ ﻓﻦ‬Rudis Sylva ‫دﻳﻔﻮن واﻟﺬﻫﺐ ا ﻣﻴﺮﻛﻲ‬ ‫ ﻻ ﺑﺪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺘﺮﻛﻴﺰ‬Ball & BMW ‫ ودواﺋﺮ ﻓﻀﺎﺋﻴﺔ‬MB&F ‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ا ﻟﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﻴﺮاﻣﻴﻚ‬ ‫ اﻧﺴﻴﺎﺑﻴﺔ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬HYT ‫ أﻧـﺎﻗــﺔ وذﻛﺎء‬- F.P. Journe ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻮن دو ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ‬

55 57 59 61 63 79 83 85 91 93 95 101 103

Imperiale - Sovereign Elegance

107 109 119 121 123 125 127 133 143 146

The Holy Heuers

Ulysse Nardin with Grace & Substance Carrera y Carrera - Once upon a Time Chaumet from High Jewelry to Sentimental Jewelry Breitling for Ladies - Earning their Wings Watch Guide: Stars & Moonphases Jaquet Droz Honors Geneva with the Bird Repeater Special from iW - Fun in Function iW’s Historical Research - Now & Then Collectible Trio Exclusive from iW - Rolex Rare Dials Another Exclusive from iW - Starting a Collection Aerowatch Modern Classics

Tudor Chronographs Column Wheel Choronographs On the Wrist: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Independent Atelier: Vianney Halter Passions: Writing by Hand Valentines' Luxury Gift Guide Market News + Events Editor's Note

125

since 1990

editor-in-chieF

master watchmaker/technical advisor

Vasken Chokarian

Donald Loke

editor

special editorial advisor

Dr. Thomas Mao

Anne-Sophie Alba

GloBal team

advertisinG sales

Journalists / contriButinG writers

v.chokarian@Lbcme.ae reGional sales manaGer

Avedis Jokarian admin@Lbcme.ae oFFice manaGer

Jessica Hitalia Graphics

Gajou Art Studio swiss editor

Nola Martin

German correspondent

Patricia de Brügger uk correspondent

John Goodall

european correspondent

Theodore Diehl-Peshkur swiss correspondent

Ian Skellern puBlisher

Luxury Business Communications P.O. Box 474182 Dubai - U.A.E. Phone: +9714 88 555 25 Fascimile: +9714 88 555 26 email : editor@Lbcme.ae suBscriptions / customer service

Luxury Business Communications P.O. Box 474182 Dubai - U.A.E. Phone: +9714 88 555 25 Fascimile: +9714 88 555 26 email: subscribe@Lbcme.ae usa edition

Fine Life Media LLC 400 Post Road Fairfield, CT 06824 U.S.A. Ph: (203) 259-8100 www.finelifemedia.com

Michael Thompson Nancy Olson Rachael Palacios Evan Rosenstein Renée Amellio Carol Besler Thomas Byczkowski Deanna Cullen Josh Dean Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle Daniel B. England Keith Flamer Martin Foster Meehna Goldsmith C. Bradley Jacobs Ken Kessler Steven Miceli Jordan Rothacker Jeff Stein Jan Teglar Dr. Melvyn Telliol-Foo Ernest R. Tope Timothy Treffry Anthony Tsai Carlo Wolff Anthony Young Vivien Mao Michael Clerizo Daos Boonma Dimitri Pavlovski Megan Samoskevich Sheldon K. Smith Myles Mellor Steve Lundin Paul H. Boutros Tara Brennan Manuel Yazdjian Frank Geelen Jason Heaton

http://www.facebook.com/ Luxury.Business.Communications.ME

.‫ كل حقوق الن�شر حمفوظة‬.‫املقاالت املن�شورة تعرب عن اآراء كتابها دون حتمل اأي م�شوؤولية‬ All advertising is subject to approval before acceptance. The publisher reserves the right to refuse any advertising for any reason whatsoever, without limit. The publisher assumes no responsibility for claims made by advertisers. All views expressed in all articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of this publication. The publisher assumes no responsibility and no liability for unsolicited materials. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part or storage in any data retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form. All rights reserved.

.‫ل‬.‫ ل‬10،000 ‫ لبنان‬- ‫ ريال‬2 ‫ عُمان‬- ‫ ريال‬25 ‫ قطر‬- ‫ دينار‬2،5 ‫ البحرين‬- ‫ دينار‬2 ‫ الكويت‬- ‫ ريال‬25 ‫ ال�شعودية‬- ‫ درهم‬25 ‫االإمارات‬ ‫ درهم‬550 ‫ باقي الدول العربية‬- ‫ درهم‬450‫ دول جمل�س التعاون اخلليجي‬- ‫ درهم‬250 ‫ االإمارات‬:‫االإ�شرتاكات مبا فيها اأجور الربيد‬

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

Fun

Fact

Did you know?

BaselWorld dates to 1917 with the opening of the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel (MUBA) tradeshow for Swiss products, in which a small section was

devoted to Swiss watches and jewelry. Not surprisingly, it took many decades and

many name changes for it to become the week-long event that draws watch and jewelry lovers from across the globe each spring.

By 1931 the Schweizer Uhrenmesse (Swiss Watch Show), as it was then called, had its own pavilion. But it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t until the early 1970s when watch brands from

other European companies were allowed to exhibit. In 1986 companies outside

Europe were first invited to participate. Last year, BaselWorld, The World Watch and Jewellery Show, welcomed over 120,000 visitors from 100 countries and hosted more than 1,460 exhibitors from around the globe.

Angus Davies

James Lamdin

James Heaton

Jeff Stein

Angus Davies is a self-confessed

James Lamdin is the Founder of

Jason Heaton writes about

Jeff Stein is an attorney living in

horological addict. It was this

analog/shift (www.analogshift.

adventure travel, outdoor gear

Atlanta, Georgia, who collects

passion for watch collecting that

com), an online boutique for a

and timepieces from his home

vintage chronographs, focusing

led to the 2011 launch of his own

curated selection of exception-

base of Minneapolis. In addi-

on the Heuer brand. Stein cre-

website, escapementmagazine.

al vintage wrist watches.

tion to International Watch, he

ated OnTheDash.com in 2003,

com. He now regularly writes

is also a freelance automotive

also contributes to Gear Patrol,

and this website has become

articles for other websites and

and watch writer based in New

Hodinkee,

the definitive reference for vin-

magazines both in his native

York City.

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Journal.

Revolution

and

tage Heuer timepieces. Jeff

U.K., mainland Europe and the

also operates a vintage Heuer

U.S. These include Great Golf

discussion forum and a buy-

Magazine, Deluxe Swiss Made

sell-trade forum that focuses on

and Professionalwatches.com,

vintage chronographs.

as well as writing for watch manufacturers.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

‫آلية ‪300GS AL 36 750‬‬ ‫مع الروزنامة المستدامة‬

‫الجهة الخلفية من اآللية مع الرنات ومؤشر‬ ‫مراحل القمر والمزيد غيرها من التعقيدات‬

‫الرقم ‪ 3‬فيما نرى عند موضع الرقم ‪ 9‬مؤشر حفظ الطاقة الخاصة باآللية‪ .‬إلى ذلك‪ ،‬تعزف‬

‫حازت الساعة على براءة اختراع لﻶلية التي تسمح لواضع الساعة بقلب الغالف وإغالقه‬

‫الساعة ثالث رنات عند أرباع الساعة بد ًال من رنتين وتأتي الرنات بنغمة مختلفة هذه ميزة‬

‫بسهولة إلظهار المينا البديلة التي تظهر روزنامة مستدامة فورية مع مؤشر يظهر السنة‬

‫تستهلك المزيد من الطاقة‪.‬‬

‫(أربعة أرقام) وهذه تقنية ال تزال بانتظار صدور براءة اختراعها‪ .‬تتألف هذه اآللية من ‪ 214‬قطعة‬ ‫مصممة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتأتي ضمن غالف من الذهب الزهري عيار ‪ 18‬قيراط ًا ويبغ قطره ‪ 47‬ملم‪ ،‬وإنها‬ ‫على الطلب‬

‫لضمان الراحة على المعصم أيا كانت المينا المكشوفة‪ ،‬مع تعزيز جودة الصوت والنغمات‪.‬‬

‫يشغّ ل مصدر الطاقة الهائل نفسه مكرّر الدقائق الذي يصدر الرنين كل ساعة وكل ربع‬

‫وكتعبير عن تاريخ باتيك فيليب الغني وإرث الدار في القطع الفنية المزخرفة‪ ،‬كرّس أحد كبار‬

‫ساعة وعلى مدار الدقائق على الطلب‪ .‬أما المنبّه الذي حازت لقاءه الشركة براءة اختراع‪،‬‬

‫المزخرفين مئات الساعات لتزيين غالف هذه الساعة ونقشه برسم ورقة الغار‪ ،‬رمز االنتصار‪.‬‬

‫والذي يصدر الرنين مثل مكرّر الدقائق‪ ،‬فلم يسبق له مثيل في قطاع ساعات المعصم‬

‫إن ساعة ‪ Grandmaster Chime‬هي بالفعل إنجاز استثنائي في قطاع صناعة الساعات‬

‫الميكانيكية‪ .‬وقرار الدمج بين األمرين يظهر إيمان ستيرن بإنتاج تعقيدات تكون بمثابة‬

‫وسيتمكن ستة أشخاص من عاشقي ساعات باتيك فيليب األوفياء من االستمتاع به‪.‬‬

‫قطع ًا فنية وتعقيدات يومية مفيدة لعاشقي الساعات المعاصرين‪.‬‬

‫ولكن تحتفظ الدار بالقطعة السابعة من هذه الساعة لمتحفها الخاص في جنيف حيث‬

‫وأصدرت الدار ابتكارا ً آخر هو مكرّر التاريخ الذي حاز أيض ًا على براءة اختراع والذي يصدر رنين ًا‬

‫يستطيع أي كان زيارة المتحف وتأمل هذه القطعة الفنية‪( .‬راجعوا قصة متحف باتيك‬

‫تضم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫منخفض ًا لﻺشارة إلى التاريخ ولفارق العشرين اليوم‪ ،‬ورنين ًا مرتفع ًا لكل يوم إضافي‪.‬‬

‫فيليب)‪ .‬وينهي ستيرن كالمه في حفل أكتوبر ‪ 2014‬بالقول‪« :‬عندما بدأت بالعمل في دار‬

‫ساعة ‪ Grandmaster Chime‬ما مجموعه ستة ابتكارات حائزة على براءات اختراع‪ ،‬بما‬

‫باتيك‪ ،‬خضعت لتدريب وتعلّمت على يد أشخاص مثيرين جدا ً لالهتمام ومحترفين جدا ً‪ .‬لقد‬

‫فيها براءة اختراع آلليات العزل المتقدّ مة لضمان عمل الساعة بطريقة بسيطة وآمنة لكي‬

‫علّموني الكثير‪ ،‬لم يعلّموني كيف أجمع األموال‪ ،‬بل علّموني كيف أصنع الجمال‪ .‬إن أتقنت‬

‫ال يقوم واضع الساعة بإجراء أي تعديالت سهوا ً مما يؤدي إلى خلل في عمل الساعة‪ .‬كذلك‪،‬‬

‫صنع الجمال‪ ،‬ستبقى في مجال العمل لمدة طويلة‪ .‬بالنسبة إليّ ‪ ،‬هذا هو الهدف النهائي»‪.‬‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪17‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫وﺃغنية عيد ميالد الدار‬ ‫من لوري كاهل‬

‫ساعة ‪ Grandmaster‬االحتفالية‬ ‫بالذكرى الـ‪ 175‬لتأسيس دار ‪Patek‬‬ ‫‪ Philippe‬تصيب النغمات العالية‬ ‫قبل تقديم ساعة ‪ Grandmaster Chime Ref. 5175‬التي طال‬ ‫انتظارها في االحتفال بالعيد الـ‪ 175‬لتأسيس دار باتيك فيليب في جنيف‬ ‫في شهر أكتوبر الماضي‪ ،‬قام تييري ستيرن‪ ،‬رئيس الشركة وعضو‬ ‫الجيل الرابع من عائلة ستيرن في التوالي على إدارة الشركة‪ ،‬بتقديم‬ ‫تحية لوالده فيليب فقال‪« :‬لقد أمضى والدي سنوات طويلة وهو‬ ‫يعلّمني مختلف األمور عن الساعات‪ ،‬بل ثقّ فني ولقّ مني أصول االحترام‬ ‫وعلّمني على القيم وكيفية تفسير الجمال وفن صناعة الساعات»‪ .‬ثم‬ ‫تم عرض شريط مصوّ ر سحر الحضور وأدخلهم عالم اآلليات المعقّ دة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المتعددة المستويات المؤلفة من ‪ 1366‬قطعة‪ ،‬بما فيها ثالثة مطارق‬ ‫صغيرة تصدر ثالث رنات مميّزة وتقدّ م ألحان ًا متناغمةً حملت الساعة‬ ‫تجسد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اسمها تيمن ًا بها‪ .‬تبلغ قيمة هذه الساعة ‪ 2،6‬مليون دوالر‪ ،‬إنها‬ ‫تلك القيم وكذلك تطوّ ر الماركة وكيفية تمرير شعلة باتيك فيليب‬ ‫من جيل إلى آخر‪.‬‬ ‫ويذكر أن ستيرن كان في الثامنة عشر من عمره فقط عندما احتفلت‬ ‫باتيك بعيدها الـ‪ 150‬وأطلقت آلية ساعة الجيب الشهيرة ‪Caliber 89‬‬ ‫والتي تعتبرها الماركة الساعة األكثر تعقيدا ً على اإلطالق‪ .‬وفيما كانت‬

‫التزام ًا بروح باتيك فيليب المستقلة وتحت رعاية العائلة للعقود التالية‪ ،‬يحفظ فيليب وتييري ستيرن‬ ‫هذه النقطة المحورية عبر إصدار ساعة المعصم األكثر تعقيدا ً التي أصدرتها الدار على اإلطالق‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪ Caliber 89‬نجمة ذاك الحدث‪ ،‬إال أن ستيرن أدرك الحق ًا أهمية‬ ‫تم إنتاجها للمناسبة نفسها‪ ،‬ولقد‬ ‫ساعات المعصم التي تتضمن مكررات دقائق والتي ّ‬

‫متعددة وثورية من ضمنها اآللية الرنانة العظيمة األولى التي تنتجها الماركة والتي تصدر‬

‫الحظ أن هذه الساعات الموسيقية حدّ دت بداية ظهور وعودة اآلليات المعقدة التي كانت‬

‫يتم تشغيلها على نظام الرنة‬ ‫كل ساعة وكل ربع ساعة؛ وعندما ّ‬ ‫الموسيقى تلقائي ًا ّ‬

‫مخصصة حتى ذلك الوقت لساعات الجيب‪ .‬ولقد كانت تلك نقطة تحوّ ل ليس فقط‬

‫الصغرى‪ ،‬تصدر الساعة الموسيقى كل ساعة وكل ربع ساعة نسمع ربع رنة فقط‪ .‬إلى‬

‫بالنسبة إلى باتيك فيليب‪ ،‬بل إلى قطاع صناعة الساعات الميكانيكية بشكل عام‪ ،‬خاصة‬

‫الجانب األيسر من الغالف‪ ،‬نجد زرا ً يسمح بتغيير النظام الذي يشغّ ل الساعة من النظام‬

‫أن هذا القطاع شهد ثورة كبيرة في العقود التي تلت‪ .‬ونظرا ً إلى حب ستيرن لمكررات‬

‫الصامت إلى نظام الرنة الكبرى أو نظام الرنة الصغرى‪ .‬وكانت باتيك قد رفضت إنتاج‬

‫الدقائق‪ ،‬لم نتفاجأ لكونه اختار أن يطوّ ر ساعة معصم ثورية تكون ساعة المعصم األكثر‬

‫التعقيد الذي يتميّز بمصروف كبير للطاقة قبل أن تنجح في تصميم خاصية القدرة على‬

‫تعقيدا ً التي تنتجها باتيك فيليب على اإلطالق‪ ،‬احتفا ًال بالعيد الـ‪ 175‬لتأسيس الماركة‪.‬‬

‫حفظ الطاقة لمدة يوم على األقل‪ .‬ولقد سمحت اإلنجازات التقنية األخيرة للدار بأن تتخطى‬

‫لقد استثمرت باتيك فيليب سبع سنوات وأكثر من مئة ألف ساعة من العمل البتكار‬

‫هذا الهدف وتستخدم برميلين مزدوجين مخصصين آللية الرنين ومنحت الساعة القدرة‬

‫ساعة ‪ Ref. 5175‬المزدوجة المينا التي تتضمن ‪ 20‬تعقيدا ً بما فيها مزايا وخصائص‬

‫على حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 36‬ساعة ويمكن مراقبة مخزون الطاقة على المينا عند موضع‬

‫‪16‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫ساعاﺕ باتيﻚ فيليﺐ المﻌروﺿة‬ ‫من نوال مارتن‬

‫يقع متحف باتيك فيليب في قلب جنيف وتسمح زيارته برؤية مجموعة من أندر‬

‫للدار‪ .‬يتضمن المتحف أيض ًا قطع ًا من مجموعة هنري غرايفز االبن‪.‬وتقودكم الرحلة‬

‫الساعات القديمة المعروضة على مساحة أربعة طوابق والمحفوظة بأفضل صورة‬

‫االستكشافية في هذا المتحف عبر تقاليد صناعة الساعات المرموقة والتقنيات‬

‫تجسد تطوّ ر قطاع صناعة الساعات وتاريخه الغني؛ حتى أن مبنى المتحف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بحيث‬

‫الفنية المرتبطة بالقطاع مثل الطالء بالمينا والرسوم الصغرية؛ ال ننسى أيض ًا وجود‬

‫تم تصميم‬ ‫نفسه قديم ويحفظ حكايات قديمة من تاريخ الحرف اليدوية العريقة‪ّ .‬‬

‫ممرات طويلة مخصصة لعرض الساعات الموسيقية إضافة إلى مجموعة الساعات‬

‫المبنى أساس ًا عام ‪ 1919‬على يد المهندس الموهوب وليم هانسلر وكان يعمل فيه‬

‫الميكانيكية الفريدة‪ .‬ويكتمل األرشيف التاريخي بمكتبة مليئة بنحو ‪ 4000‬كتاب أدبي‬

‫صاغة مهرة يعملون في قطاع المجوهرات‪ .‬عام ‪ ،1975‬أصبح المبنى مقرا ً لمشغل‬

‫يتضمن المتحف أيض ًا معدات أصلية وطاوالت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يتناول موضوع صناعة الساعات‪.‬‬

‫رونيس ‪ Atelier Runis‬الذي عني بصناعة األغلفة واألساور لدار باتيك فيليب‪ .‬عام‬

‫عمل قديمة استخدمها صانعو الساعات في الماضي لتنفيذ هذه الساعات الرائدة‪.‬‬

‫‪ ،1999‬أعادت باتيك فيليب تصميم المنشأة بأكملها وحوّ لتها إلى متحف من أربعة‬

‫يستطيع الزائر حتى التوغل في فكر المهاجر البولندي انطوان نوربرت دو باتيك‪،‬‬

‫طوابق‪ ،‬من شأن كل طابق فيه أن يسحر األنظار ويثير الدهشة واإلعجاب في قلوب‬

‫مؤسس دار باتيك فيليب‪ ،‬الذي يمكن رؤية مدوّناته ومالحظاته في المتحف نفسه‪،‬‬

‫عاشقي الساعات وكل الزوار بفضل المجموعة الهائلة من الساعات التي يفوق‬

‫إضافة إلى دفاتر محفوظة بعناية ودقة تتضمن معلومات عن جميع ساعات باتيك‬

‫عددها الـ‪ 800‬قطعة والمعروضة بطريقة مميّزة تحت سقف واحد‪ .‬ويسوق المتحف‬

‫تم ابتكارها والتفاصيل الالحقة مثل اسم الزبون الذي اشتراها وسجل‬ ‫فيليب التي ّ‬

‫زواره عبر مجموعة تعود إلى القرن السادس عشر‪ .‬وال ننسى طبع ًا الطابق الكامل‬

‫التصليح واألسعار‪ .‬إن هذا المتحف هو وجهة ال بد من زيارتها عندما تقصدون جنيف‬

‫المخصص لساعات باتيك فيليب االستثنائية التي أطلقت بين عامي ‪ 1839‬و‪.2000‬‬

‫وشاركوا في جوالت خاصة أو عامة في المتحف أو خالل ساعات العمل الستكشاف‬

‫يتضمن المتحف أيض ًا قطع ًا تعود للملكة فكتوريا وسلطان مصر حسين وأفراد‬

‫المكان واتباع اإلشارات الموزّعة في المكان باللغة اإلنكليزية‪.‬‬

‫آخرين من العائالت الملكية من كل أنحاء العالم‪ .‬كذلك‪ ،‬نرى عدة قطع ساحرة‬ ‫معروضة بما فيها ساعة المعصم ‪ Caliber 89‬التي أطلقت بمناسبة العيد الـ‪150‬‬

‫‪18‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫لمزيد من المعلومات‪ ،‬زوروا موقع المتحف على اإلنترنت‪patekmuseum.com :‬‬

‫يقول كارل‪-‬فريديريك شوفيلي‪ ،‬الرئيس المشارك في شوبار‪« :‬لطالما‬ ‫حلمت بصنع كرونوغراف يدوي التعبئة‪ .‬أنا أعشق هذه اآلليات التي‬ ‫تمثل جوهر قطاع صناعة الساعات التقليدية بأطهر أشكالها وأنبلها‪.‬‬ ‫تمت برمجة هذا التصميم منذ أن أطلقنا ‪L.U.C Chrono‬‬ ‫ولقد ّ‬ ‫‪ One‬في العام ‪ ،2006‬وبالنسبة إليّ فإن إطالق هذا الكرونوغراف حلم‬ ‫يتحقّ ق»‪ .‬يبلغ قطر غالف هذا الكرونوغراف ‪ 42‬ملم‪ ،‬مصنوع من الذهب‬ ‫الزهري المصقول ويتميّز بجوانب محدّ بة وموضع زجاجة دائري مصقول‬ ‫فمصممة على شكل أشعة الشمس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وناعم الملمس‪ .‬أما المينا‪،‬‬ ‫التقليدية باللون الفضي وتحمل أرقام ًا رومانية وعقارب ملكية غير‬ ‫المعة‪ ،‬فيما تأتي عقارب الكرونوغراف حمراء اللون لتضفي نوع ًا من‬ ‫الحياة إلى التصميم بشكل عام‪ .‬عند موضع الرقم ‪ ،3‬نجد عداد الدقائق‬ ‫الثالثين وعند موضع الرقم ‪ ،9‬نجد عداد الساعات االثتني عشر فيما نرى‬ ‫عقرب الثواني الصغير عند موضع الرقم ‪ .6‬أما مؤشر التاريخ‪ ،‬فيظهر‬ ‫بوضوح بين الرقمين ‪ 4‬و‪ .5‬تأتي هذه الساعة مرفقةً بسوار محاك يدوي ًا‬ ‫مبطن بجلد التمساح باللون الخمري المائل إلى البني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من جلد التمساح‬ ‫ومزوّد بإبزيم من الذهب الزهري من عيار ‪ 18‬قيراطاً‪.‬‬ ‫ساعة ‪LUC Lunar Big Date‬‬ ‫تأتي آلية شوبار الذاتية التعبئة ‪ L.U.C Caliber 96.20-L‬والتي يمكن‬ ‫رؤيتها من الجهة الخلفية من الغالف‪ ،‬في قلب غالف يبلغ قطره‬ ‫‪ 42‬ملم – في الصورة هنا – ومصنوع من الذهب األبيض المصقول‬ ‫والمزخرف من عيار ‪ 18‬قيراطاً‪ .‬أما المينا الفضية اللون‪ ،‬فتأتي مزخرفة‬ ‫ساعة ‪ L.U.C Lunar Big Date‬من شوبار يبلغ قطر غالفها ‪ 42‬ملم وتتضمن مؤشرا ً لمراحل القمر‪.‬‬

‫على شكل إشعة الشمس وتحمل أرقام ًا رومانية وعقارب ملكية‬ ‫مضيئة‪ .‬بالمقابل‪ ،‬يظهر مؤشر التاريخ الكبير عند موضع الرقم ‪12‬‬ ‫فيما يظهر عقرب الثواني بين الرقمين ‪ 4‬و‪ .5‬ونرى عند موضع الرقم‬ ‫‪ 7‬مؤشر مراحل القمر المتحرّك والذي يتميّز بدقة كبيرة لدرجة أن أي‬ ‫فارق بين اآللية ودورة القمر الفعلية بالكاد تبلغ يوم ًا واحدا ً كل ‪ 122‬عاماً‪.‬‬ ‫ويمكن رؤية مراحل القمر المختلفة في القسمين الشمالي والجنوبي‬ ‫من الكرة األرضية من خالل نافذة كبيرة واضحة ودرامية بحجمها‪.‬‬ ‫باإلضافة إلى ذلك‪ ،‬يتميّز القسم الشمالي من األسطوانة بكونه يظهر‬ ‫كوكبة الدب األكبر فيما يظهر القسم الجنوبي كوكبة الصليب‬ ‫الجنوبي‪ .‬بالمقابل‪ ،‬يسمح برميالن متراصفان محوريان بحفظ الطاقة‬ ‫لمدة ‪ 65‬ساعة في هذه اآللية الحائزة مصادقة المجلس السويسري‬ ‫لمراقبة الكرونوغرافات والتي يضرب ميزان التوازن فيها بمعدل ‪28800‬‬ ‫ضربة في الساعة‪.‬‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪21‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫جدﻳداﻥ فﻲ‬ ‫مجموعة‬ ‫رائدﺓ من‬ ‫‪L.U.C‬‬ ‫‪CHOPARD‬‬ ‫من نانسي أولسون‬

‫لـ«‪ »L.U.C‬دور جديد ومعقّ د‪.‬‬ ‫منذ إطالقها كجزء أساسي وجوهري من عائلة ساعات شوبار قبل‬ ‫عشرين عاماً‪ ،‬تميّزت مجموعة ‪ L.U.C‬بعدة تصاميم وأشكال‬ ‫وتعقيدات وآليات‪ .‬ولقد أطلقت ساعة ‪ L.U.C Lunar Big Date‬في‬ ‫وتم تجديدها أخيرا ً بحيث زوّدت بتفاصيل جمالية جديدة‬ ‫العام ‪ّ ،2009‬‬ ‫كالذهب األبيض أو الزهري من عيار ‪ 18‬قيراطاً‪ ،‬فيما بات كرونوغراف‬ ‫‪ L.U.C‬الذي يعود للعام ‪ ،1963‬بمثابة حلم يتحقّ ق‪.‬‬ ‫كرونوغراف ‪L.U.C 1963‬‬ ‫كان العام ‪ 1963‬عام ًا بارزا ً بالنسبة إلى عائلة شوفيلي التي استحوذت‬ ‫في ذاك العام على دار شوبار‪ ،‬وبالتالي‪ ،‬اختير اسم مجموعة ‪L.U.C‬‬ ‫وتم إطالقها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ 1963‬بحيث يكون تكريم ًا لهذه المناسبة الهامة‬ ‫احتفا ًال بالذكرى الخمسين لهذا الحدث‪ .‬إن كرونوغراف ‪LUC 1963‬‬ ‫حائز على مصادقة مجلس مراقبة جودة الكرونوغرافات‪ ،‬وإنه أحد‬ ‫التصاميم البارزة والمرموقة في هذه المجموعة‪ ،‬وتتوافر منه‬ ‫مجموعة محدودة من خمسين قطعة‪ .‬يتميّز هذا الكرونوغراف بآلية‬ ‫‪ L.U.C 03.07-L‬المزخرفة بطريقة فنية والتي يمكن رؤيتها من‬ ‫خالل الجهة الخلفية من غالف الساعة‪ ،‬علم ًا أنها تتضمن ميزة العداد‬ ‫التراجعي الذي يسمح بضبط الوقت لعدة عمليات متتالية بدون الحاجة‬ ‫إلى تصفير العداد‪ .‬يتميّز هذا الكرنوغراف أيض ًا بإبزيم مزدوج عمودي‬ ‫تتم تلقائي ًا‬ ‫يسمح بتسغيل عقرب الثواني بسهولة؛ عند سحب التاج‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫أعادة ضبط عقرب الثواني عند موضع الرقم ‪ 6‬وتتوقف حركته مما‬ ‫يسمح بمطابقة التوقيت بدقة مع الوقت المرجعي‪ .‬في هذا اإلطار‪،‬‬

‫‪20‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫كرونوغراف ‪ L.U.C 1963‬الموافق عليه من قبل المجلس السويسري لمراقبة الكرنوغرافات –‬ ‫غالف من الذهب الزهري يبلغ قطره ‪ 42‬ملم – ستصنع شوبار ‪ 50‬قطعة من هذا التصميم‪.‬‬

‫ بلونيها االحمر والبرتقالي‬Silverstone RS Endurance 12HR ‫ساعة‬

Silverstone RS Supersprint ‫ساعة‬

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Silverstone RS Skeleton ‫ساعة‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫‪GRaHaM‬‬ ‫اﻹﺛارﺓ مﻄلوبة‬

‫من نانسي أولسون‬

‫وفاءً ألسلوب ‪ Graham‬وطموحاته الجريئة‪ ،‬حرصت اإلضافات الجديدة‬ ‫المستوحاة من عالم السباقات إلى مجموعة ‪ Silverstone RS‬على أن تلفت‬ ‫األنظار على الطريق السريع وبعيدا ً عنه‪.‬‬ ‫تتميّز ساعة ‪ Silverston RS Endurance 24HR‬الجديدة بآلية مزوّدة بز ّر واحد‬

‫ساعة ‪Silverstone RS Supersprint‬‬

‫فيتم قياس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التحمل الصعب‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وخاصية كرونوغراف مزدوج يقوم بقياس متطلّبات سباق‬

‫تتميّز هذه الساعة بغالف من الفوالذ وتتميّز بشكل خاص بوجود مرآة متدرّجة حول‬

‫مدة الجولة من خالل ز ّر تشغيل‪/‬توقيف‪/‬إعادة ضبط في الكرونوغراف يشغّ ل بدورها عداد‬

‫المينا لضمان دقة قراءة الوقت‪ .‬عندما يتوقف عقرب الكرونوغراف األحمر عن الحركة‪،‬‬

‫الدقائق والثواني التراجعي‪ .‬يمكن قياس توقيت عدد ال متناهٍ من الجوالت ألن الموقّ ت‬

‫يمكن قراءة الوقت بدقة كبيرة بمعدل ‪ 8/1‬بفضل ذاك السطح العاكس‪ .‬أما غالف‬

‫في الكرونوغراف يعمل بشكل مستقل‪ .‬ويمكن تشغيل خاصية توقيت أخرى من خالل‬

‫الساعة فمريح على المعصم ويبلغ قطره ‪ 44‬ملم ويتميّز بموضع زجاجة خاص يجعل‬

‫يتم تشغيله بواسطة ز ّر أحمر‪.‬‬ ‫ثان بواسطة عداد الـ‪ 24‬ساعة مع عداد تراجعي ّ‬ ‫كرونوغراف ٍ‬

‫ال أي أكبر من ‪ 42‬ملم‪ .‬تقوم هذه الساعة على آلية‬ ‫الغالف يبدو أكبر مما هو عليه فع ً‬

‫وهذه الساعة مصنوعة من الفوالذ المطلي بمادة ‪ DLC‬السوداء ويبلغ قطر غالفها ‪46‬‬

‫الكرونوغراف ‪ G1702‬االوتوماتيكية التي يمكن رؤيتها من خالل الجهة الخلفية الشفافة‬

‫ملم‪ ،‬وتتميّز بمينا تحمل مؤشرات حمراء مع فتحة لمؤشر التاريخ عند موضع الرقم ‪9‬‬

‫من الغالف‪ ،‬وتتضمن مؤشر تاريخ وتحفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 40‬ساعة‪ .‬إلى ذلك‪ ،‬تحتوي الساعة‬

‫وعدادين عند موقع الرقمين ‪ 6‬و‪ 12‬وحميعها محاطة بموضع زجاجة خزفي مع عداد دقات‬

‫على موضع زجاجة من الخزف األسود يحمل بدوره عدادا ً يقيس السرعة‪ ،‬وتأتي مرفقةً‬

‫القلب باللون األحمر‪.‬‬

‫بسوار من المطاط األسود مزخرف على شكل آثار عجالت السيارة‪.‬‬

‫أما السوار‪ ،‬فمن المطاط المزخرف على شكل آثار عجالت السيارة (يتوافر أيض ًا سوار‬

‫استوحيت هذه الساعة المصنوعة من الذهب األصفر من عيار ‪ 18‬قيراط ًا والفوالذ‬

‫مبطن باللون األحمر تماشي ًا مع المظهر العام للساعة‪ .‬أما من الداخل‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من الجلد) وهو‬

‫المغطى بمادة ‪ DLC‬السوداء من عالم السباقات ويبلغ قطرها ‪ 46‬ملم‪ ،‬وتقوم على‬

‫فتقوم هذه الساعة على آلية الكرونوغراف ‪ G1751‬األوتوماتيكية مع قدرة على‬

‫آلية الكرونوغراف ‪ G1790‬األوتوماتيكية الهيكلية المزوّدة بنظام امتصاص الصدمات‬

‫حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 48‬ساعة‪ .‬ويمكن رؤية اآللية من خالل الجهة الخلفية من الغالف‬

‫‪ ،Incabloc‬وتتمتع بقدرة على حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 46‬ساعة‪ .‬موضع الزجاجة في هذه‬

‫المصنوعة من بلورة صفير شفافة وتكشف في الوقت نفسه على الرقم المتسلسل‬

‫يكمل اللون الذهبي الذي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الساعة مصنوع من الخزف األسود ومزوّد بعداد يقيس السرعة‬

‫الخاص بالساعة التي تاتي ضمن مجموعة محدودة من ‪ 250‬قطعة‪.‬‬

‫يظهر في تفاصيل الساعة كلها‪ .‬ونجد إلى جانب الغالف‪ ،‬عند موقع الرقم ‪ ،10‬فتحةً جانبية‬

‫نذكر أيض ًا ساعة ‪ Silverstone RS Endurance 12HR‬التي يبلغ قطر غالفها ‪46‬‬

‫مصممة بحيث تسمح برؤية الشاكوش وعجلة التوازن أثناء عملها فيما تسمح الجهة‬ ‫ّ‬

‫ملم أيض ًا وتقوم على آلية ‪ G1735‬األوتوماتيكية الثالثية التي تتضمن مؤشرات الثواني‬

‫الخلفية الشفافة من الغالف برؤية اآللية من منظار آخر بتفاصيلها الرمادية والذهبية‬

‫والدقائق الثالثين والـ‪ 12‬ساعة‪ .‬تتميّز هذه الساعة بمؤشرات برتقالية اللون على المينا‬

‫وتلك المصنوعة من الروديوم إضافة إلى الزخارف اليدوية‪ .‬أما مؤشرات الساعات وعقربي‬

‫وموضع الزجاجة والسوار وتتضمن نظام امتصاص الصدمات ‪ Incabloc‬على غرار‬

‫الساعات والدقائق‪ ،‬فمطلية بمادة سوبرلومينوفا البيضاء المضيئة‪ .‬تأتي هذه الساعة‬

‫الساعة السابقة‪ ،‬إضافة إلى قدرة على حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 46‬ساعة‪ .‬تأتي هذه الساعة‬

‫مرفقة بسوار من جلد التمساح األسود مع مع التفاصيل المطاطية لزيادة متانة السوار‬

‫بدورها مرفقةً بسوار مطاطي أو من جلد التمساح األسود‪.‬‬

‫وإمساكه بالمعصم‪ .‬أما التاج‪ ،‬فمصنوع من الذهب من عيار ‪ 18‬قيراطاً‪.‬‬

‫‪22‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫تتوفر ساعة ‪Hublot Classic Fusion Cathedral‬‬ ‫‪ Tourbillon Minute Repeater‬ضمن مجموعة‬ ‫محدودة وتقوم على آلية جديدة خاصة بهوبلو تتميّز‬ ‫برنة مزدوجة تشكّ ل الميزة الفارقة في هذه الساعة‪.‬‬

‫ستتوافر ساعة ‪Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute‬‬ ‫‪ Repeater‬ضمن مجموعة محدودة‪ ،‬إنها تقوم على آلية جديدة مز ّودة برنّة‬ ‫احتفالية مزدوجة تشكّ ل العالمة الفارقة فيها‪ .‬أما اآللية‪ ،‬فتحمل اسم ‪HUB‬‬ ‫‪ 8001‬وهي يدوية التعبئة مز ّودة بشاكوش التوربيون وآلية مكرّر الدقائق‪،‬‬ ‫إضافة إلى توربيون تقليدي وقفص يبلغ قطره ‪ 13،6‬ملم يتحرّك دائري ًا بمعدل‬ ‫دورة واحدة في الدقيقة‪ .‬ويسمع الرنين المزدوج بوضوح مع رنة تأكيدية تدوي‬ ‫تمت إضافة‬ ‫عبر الغالف المتوافر بلون الذهب الملكي أو التيتانيوم‪ .‬ولقد ّ‬ ‫قطعة اإلطالق إلى الجهة اليسرى من الغالف مما يجعل منها جزءا ً متناغم ًا‬ ‫من تصميم الساعة بد ًال من ملحق ضروري‪ .‬ويعتبر هذا التعقيد المهم الجديد‬ ‫نتيجة ‪ 24‬شهرا ً من األبحاث وأعمال التطوير وإنه التوربيون مكرّر الدقائق الثاني‬ ‫الذي تنتجه الدار‪ .‬ولم نتفاجأ لكون هذه اآللية تشكّ ل خير دليل على فلسفة‬ ‫االندماج التي تعتمدها الماركة بما أنها تصوير واضح للتقليد والعصري مع ًا‬ ‫ظل إطار من العملية والتصميم‪ .‬وهذه الساعة هي جزء من إصدار من ‪99‬‬ ‫في ّ‬ ‫المبطن بالمطاط‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل منها مرفقةً بسوار من جلد التمساح االسود‬ ‫قطعة تأتي ّ‬ ‫لزيادة أمد حياة السوار‪ .‬تتمتع ‪Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon‬‬ ‫‪ Minute Repeater‬بقدرة على حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 5‬أيام وبقدرة على مقاومة‬ ‫المياه حتى عمق ‪ 30‬مترا ً ويمكن رؤية اآللية العظيمة من خالل الجهة الخلفية‬ ‫الشفافة من الغالف‪.‬‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪25‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫ريكاردو غوادالوب‪ ،‬الرئيس التنفيذي لهوبلو يستلم جائزة هوبلو عن فئة التصميم الثوري في حفل مسابقة الساعات في جنيف للعام ‪.2014‬‬

‫توربيوﻥ ومك ﹼرر دﻗائﻖ‬ ‫ترتقي ‪ Hublot‬بفن االندماج وترفعه درجةً إضافية‬ ‫من نانسي أولسون‬ ‫إن لم تسمعوا بهذه الساعة قبل مسابقة العام ‪ 2014‬للساعات في جنيف‪ ،‬ال شك‬

‫ويقول ريكاردو غوادالوب الرئيس التنفيذي في دار هوبلو الذي حضر إلى مسرح جنيف‬

‫أنكم أصبحتم تعرفونها اآلن‪ .‬فقد فازت ساعة ‪Classic Fusion Cathedral‬‬

‫الكبير الستالم الجائزة في أواخر أكتوبر‪«:‬لهذه الجائزة قيمة كبيرة بالنسبة إلينا‪ .‬وأنا‬

‫‪ Tourbillon Minute Repeater‬من هوبلو وبكل فخر بمسابقة الساعات في جنيف‬

‫فخور جدا ً لتسلّمها بالنيابة عن هوبلو عن هذه الساعة بالتحديد‪ .‬ذلك ألن هذه الساعة‬

‫تم ترشيح ساعتين أخرتين للفوز بالمسابقة‪ :‬ساعة‬ ‫عن فئة الساعة األكثر ثورية‪ .‬ولقد ّ‬

‫تمثل جوهر الماركة الحقيقي‪ .‬انها تتميّز بمظهر عصري يحمل جميع رموز وشيفرات‬

‫‪ MP-05 LaFerrari‬عن فئة اإلنجازات التقنية وساعة ‪ Classic Fusion Pele‬عن‬

‫تم تطويرها وإنتاجها بالكامل في‬ ‫هوبلو الشهيرة‪ ،‬دون أن ننسى طبع ًا اآللية التي ّ‬

‫فئة الساعات الرياضية‪.‬‬

‫مشاغل هوبلو»‪.‬‬

‫‪24‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫المجلس في سلطنة عمان حيث ألهم الحرفيين لدى روديس سيلفا في إبتكاراتهم الفريدة من خالل‬ ‫تصاميم مليئة بالفن والتكنولوجيا العصرية‬

‫درجة حرارة تبلغ ‪ 840‬درجة للكشف عن االلوان وتالعب الضوء في الرسم‪ .‬ومن التحديات‬ ‫ايض ًا كانت مالحقة األسطح الواجب طالؤها بالمينا‪ ،‬وصقل المينا لتوليد ثريا نقية‪ ،‬وحفر‬ ‫التفاصيل الصغيرة بدقة المتناهية ال تتقنها إال يد خبير الحفر وعينه وأدواته‪.‬‬ ‫يتعزّز جمال مينا الساعات بفضل الزخارف التي تحملها المينا التي تتميّز أيض ًا برسوم‬ ‫وتتم زخرفة أجزاء الساعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أهرام صغيرة‪ ،‬األمر الذي يتطلّب تبديل أداة العمل ثالث مرات‪.‬‬ ‫كلها‪ ،‬الظاهرة منها وغير الظاهرة‪ ،‬بطريقة يدوية باستخدام مختلف الوسائل والتقنية‬ ‫كالرسوم والبرغلة وزخارف إشعة الشمس وأي تقنيات زخرفة أخرى من شأنها أن تحوّ ل‬ ‫ساعة راقية وتجعلها أكثر روعةً وجماالً‪.‬‬ ‫بعد مرور ثماني سنوات على تأسيسها‪ ،‬تفتخر دار ‪ Rudis Sylva‬بكونها تستضيف‬ ‫الكم من المهارات‪ .‬ومن خالل سياسة التسويق والتواصل التي تعتمدها‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتستخدم هذا‬ ‫باتت الدار قادرةً على أن تقدّ م لزبائنها الدوليين امتياز اكتشاف هذه الساعات الفريدة التي‬ ‫تم إنهاؤها طبق ًا لما اقتضته تقاليد فن صناعة الساعات في منطقة الجورا السويسرية‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪27‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫‪Rudis‬‬ ‫‪sylva‬‬ ‫راق وتكنولوجيا متقدمة‬ ‫فن ٍ‬ ‫عندما كشف النقاب رسمي ًا عن هذه الساعات في معرض بازل ورلد ‪ ،2009‬لن نبالغ إن‬ ‫قلنا إن مذبذب ‪ Rudis Sylva Harmonious‬أذهل صانعي الساعات تماماً‪ .‬يتميّز هذا‬ ‫المذبذب بميزانين مسننين متداخلين ظهرا للوهلة األولى وكأنهما يمنعان الساعة من‬ ‫العمل بالطريقة الصحيحة‪.‬‬ ‫ولكن عندما أمعنوا النظر‪ ،‬تمكن خبراء الساعات من رؤية الثورة الحقيقية في قطاع‬ ‫صناعة الساعات‪ ،‬ثورة تمثلت بجهاز قادر على معادلة آثار الجاذبية فورا ً فيما تحتاج‬ ‫معظم آليات التوربيون إلى ستين ثانية للتعويض عن هذه الظاهرة‪.‬‬ ‫وقام أحد أبرز الصحافيين الذين أعجبوا بهذا المذبذب بدعوة فيليب دوفور للذهاب‬ ‫المصمم نفسه ميكا ريسانين‪ ،‬صانع الساعات الذي يعمل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واكتشاف خبايا هذا االختراع مع‬ ‫لصالح الماركة في مركزها في فرانش مونتانيه‪ .‬ولقد حصل فيليب دوفور على هذه‬ ‫المعلومات التقنية األساسية‪:‬‬ ‫• ‬

‫ميزانان مسننان متداخالن‪.‬‬

‫• ‬

‫نابضا توازن مثبتان في وضعيات متقابلة ويعمالن الواحد تلو اآلخر‪.‬‬

‫• ‬

‫شاكوش أحادي واحد‪.‬‬

‫إن هذا النظام معروف باسم «المذبذب المتناغم» وهو قادر على معادلة آثار الجاذبية‬ ‫فورا ً‪ .‬تسجّ لت ماركة روديس سيلفا في العام ‪ 2006‬وبات عمرها اليوم ثمانية أعوام‪ ،‬انها‬ ‫تستخدم هذه اآللة المبتكرة التي لقيت رواج ًا وتقديرا ً كبيرين عند إطالقها في معرض‬ ‫بازل ورلد لكونها االبتكار األهم منذ إطالق توربيون بريغيه عام ‪( 1801‬بحسب التصريحات‬ ‫مختص)‪ ،‬وهي تعتبر ركيزةً لجميع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التي أدلى بها بعض كبار صانعي الساعات لصحافي‬ ‫المنتجات التي تحمل توقيع الماركة‪.‬‬

‫‪26‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫ويتطلّب اختراع استثنائي مماثل بيئة راقية ورفيعة ومنذ إطالقه رسمياً‪ ،‬حرصت ‪Rudis‬‬ ‫‪ Sylva‬على أن يتزيّن المذبذب المتناغم بأفضل أنواع المينا والزخارف والتفاصيل اليدوية‪.‬‬ ‫ولكن لألسف غالب ًا ما كانت تقنيات الزينة هذه تنفّ ذ بواسطة اآلالت‪ ،‬صنعت يدوي ًا من‬ ‫الذهب الزهري والبالتين من قبل سيلفان بيتيكس وفريقه في شركة ‪ Glypto‬ألعمال‬ ‫الحفر‪ ،‬وصوفي كاتان موراليس ألعمال الطالء بالمينا‪ ،‬وجورج برودبيك ألعمال الزخرفة‪،‬‬ ‫إلى بعض الحرفيين المستقلين األوفياء للماركة الذين اهتموا بالرسوم والتثبيت وزخارف‬ ‫أشعة الشمس والبرغلة الدائرية وتقنيات الزخرفة األخرى‪.‬‬ ‫فكانت النتيجة إذا ً مئات الساعات من األعمال الفنية التي كشف النقاب عنها للمرة األولى‬ ‫راق وأسطوري في منطقة شاتو ديمون ولقد‬ ‫في متحف لولوكل للساعات‪ ،‬إنه متحف ٍ‬ ‫طلب من الماركة أن تعرض هذه القطع الثالث في الصالة الداخلية لمدة أسبوع‪ .‬ومن‬ ‫هناك‪ ،‬تنقل الساعات إلى بيتها الجديد في سلطنة عمان‪ ،‬البلد الذي بنى المباني الثالثة التي‬ ‫تظهر على المينا‪.‬‬ ‫في الواقع‪ ،‬نرى على هذه الساعات‪ ،‬بألوان المينا االحمر واألخضر واألزرق‪ ،‬رسوم ًا لمبنى‬ ‫األوبرا الملكية والمجلس ومطار مسقط الدولي الجديد‪ ،‬وجميعها محفورة يدوي ًا على مينا‬ ‫الساعات المصنوعة من الذهب األبيض‪ .‬وتعتبر هذه المباني معالم معهمةً في عالم‬ ‫الهندسة ولقد استغرق نسخها بهذا الحجم الصغير مئات الساعات من العمل المتواصل‬ ‫التي تخللتها شكوك وتحديات كثيرة‪ .‬ومن التحديات التي واجهها فريق العمل‪ ،‬نذكر اختيار‬ ‫المواد والزوايا التي تصوّ ر فيها المباني‪ ،‬وشكل المينا وهيكليتها‪ ،‬وبرغلة الطالء بالمينا‬ ‫وتحويلها إلى مسحوق ال يكون ناعم ًا جدا ً وال خشن ًا جداً‪ ،‬ثم تسخين الطبقات األربع على‬

‫‪Tread 1G‬‬

‫‪Tread 2 Gold‬‬

‫تتميّز مجموعة ‪ Devon Tread‬بتفاصيلها الجمالية وتكنولوجيتها الثورية بفضل نظام‬ ‫التوقيت فيها الذكي الذي يعمل على حزام متحرّك‪ ،‬وقد باتت تتضمن اليوم طابع ًا جذاب ًا‬ ‫ال مع النسخ الذهبية المتوافرة من اثنين من تصاميمها‪ Tread 1 :‬و ‪.Tread 2‬‬ ‫جمي ً‬ ‫أطلق تصميم ‪ Tread 1G‬في أواخر العام ‪ 2013‬وهو نسخة من تصميم ‪ 1 Tread‬األساسي‪،‬‬ ‫يصنع على الطلب من الذهب األصفر والفوالذ المغطى بمادة ‪ DLC‬السوداء‪ ،‬علم ًا أن‬ ‫‪ Tread 1‬كان التصميم االول الذي تطلقه هذه الشركة االميركية‪ .‬وتصميم ‪Tread 2‬‬ ‫‪ Gold‬الذهبي الجديد هو النسخة الجديدة من هذا التصميم وانه مصنوع من معدن ثمين‬ ‫ويأتي أصغر حجم ًا من التصميم الثاني الذي أضاف سوارا ً ذهبي ًا إلى الغالف الذهبي الجديد‪ .‬أما‬ ‫التصميم األصلي الذي أطلقته الشركة عام ‪ 2010‬فكان مستوح ًا من الثورة الصناعية ومن‬ ‫تم ترشيح ساعة ‪ Tread 1‬للفوز‬ ‫ابتكار السيور الناقلة للحركة‪ .‬في تلك السنة نفسها‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫بجائزة أفضل ساعة في مسابقة الساعات في جنيف عن فئة التصميم واالبتكار – وهذه‬ ‫الشركة هي شركة الساعات األميركية األولى والوحيدة التي تلقت يوم ًا هذا التقدير‪ .‬وما‬ ‫زالت ساعة ‪ Tread 1G‬تحافظ على الحجم نفسه والتركيبة نفسها التي نجدها في ساعة‬ ‫‪Tread 2 Starry Night‬‬

‫‪ Tread 1‬األساسية ولكن في هذه النسخة الجديدة‪ ،‬بات عدد كبير من األقسام الخارجية‬ ‫في الساعة‪ ،‬مثل الحلقات األساسية والتاج وإبزيم السوار وأغطية محرّك اآللية وغيرها‪،‬‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪29‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫دﻳﻔﻮن‬

‫واﻟﺬﻫﺐ ا ﻣﻴﺮﻛﻲ‬ ‫يضيف ‪ Devon‬معدن ًا ثمين ًا وألوان ًا جديدةً إلى الساعات‬ ‫االميركية الصنع الكهربائية الميكانيكية‪.‬‬

‫واي‪-‬ﺟﻴﻦ ﻣﻮن دﻳﻠﺴﺎل‬

‫‪28‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫‪Tread 2 Murder‬‬

‫‪Tread 2 Ghost‬‬

‫جميعها مصنوعة من الذهب األصفر من عيار ‪ 18‬قيراطاً‪ .‬وحتى صفيحة المؤشر (الجسر)‬

‫في باسادينا على إنتاجها‪ .‬تقوم هذه الساعة على آلية ‪ Time Belt‬المميّزة والخاصة‬

‫مغطسة بالذهب‪ .‬يبلغ مجموع وزن كمية الذهب الموجودة في هذه الساعة ‪ 87‬غراماً‪،‬‬

‫بالشركة‪ ،‬إنها آلية هجينة تعمل على بطارية من الليثيوم بوليمر القابلة إلعادة الشحن‬

‫أما اآللية التي تشغّ لها فهي نفسها (مع أن تصميم ‪ Tread 1G‬تتضمن نسخة أحدث من‬

‫والتي تشغّ ل اآللية لمدة ‪ 28‬يوماً‪ .‬أما الحزام األفقي فيشير إلى التوقيت بالساعات فيما‬

‫اآللية) فيما يبلغ قطر الغالف الكبير ‪ 53،3‬ملم وارتفاعه ‪ 47‬ملم وسماكته ‪ 19‬ملم‪ ،‬إنه‬

‫يشير الحزام العمودي إلى الدقائق؛ يمكن التحكم بمزايا اآللية بواسطة زر تحكّ م خاص‬

‫براحة على المعصم بفضل األثالم التي تلتف‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫مزوّد بتاج ضخم في القعر ولكنه ما زال يثبت‬

‫(أو حاسوب مصغّ ر) نجده في وسط ساعة ‪ .Tread 2‬إضافة إلى التصميم األصغر حجم ًا‬

‫حول المعصم‪ .‬ولكن ظاهرياً‪ ،‬تمنح القطع الذهبية الجديدة الساعة مظهرا ً أكثر فخامةً‬

‫(‪ 42 x 38‬ملم) من ساعة ‪ Tread 2G‬الذهبية التي أطلقت في معرض بازل ورلد السنة‬

‫وشعورا ً مميزا ً ومختلفاً‪ .‬وتشير شركة ‪ Devon‬التي يقع مقرها في لوس أنجلوس إلى أن‬

‫الماضية‪ ،‬ستطلق الشركة هذا العام ساعة ‪ Tread 2 Ghost‬التي تتميّز بغالف أبيض‬

‫العناصر الذهبية في هذه الساعة مصنوعة بدقة عالية بل أن صنعها صعب جدا ً بسبب‬

‫وساعة ‪ Tread 2 Nightmare‬السوداء‪ ،‬و ‪ Tread 2 Murder‬الحمراء إضافة إلى نسخ‬

‫التحمل المتوقعة منها وبسبب أشكالها الفريدة‪ .‬ونتيجةً لذلك‪ ،‬تحتاج الشركة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫درجات‬

‫ملوّ نة أخرى‪.‬‬

‫كل تصميم‪.‬‬ ‫إلى شهرين على األقل لصنع ّ‬ ‫مصادر أميركية‬ ‫‪Tread 2‬‬

‫إن تصاميم ديفون وتطويرها للساعات وهندستها وإنتاجها وتجميعها عملية جريئة‬

‫إلى النسخة المصنوعة بالكامل من الذهب من تصميم ‪ ،Tread 2‬بدأت تنتشر في‬

‫ومبتكرة تجري كلها في جنوب كاليفورنيا حيث وحدّ ت الشركة القوى مع شركة تختص‬

‫األسواق اليوم نسخ ملوّ نة من التصميم المصنوع من الفوالذ ولقد سبق أن قبلت‬

‫بالكهربائيات الفضائية المتطوّ رة والتي تعمل وتفكّ ر بطريقة ثورية وغريبة‪ .‬بالفعل‪ ،‬فإن‬

‫الشركة أكثر من ‪ 300‬طلب مسبق لهذه النسخة الجديدة األصغر حجم ًا (‪ 44 x 42‬ملم)‬

‫معظم مورّدي المعدات واألدوات يعملون في صناعة المعدات الفضائية في الواليات‬

‫في معرض بازل ورلد السنة الماضية وتعمل مختبرات ديفون الجديدة ومشاغلها‬

‫المتحدة األميركية‪ ،‬هي صناعة تأسست بناءً على مبدأ تنفيذ مهمات تكاد تكون‬

‫‪30‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

CHRONOFIGHTER OVERSIZE

2CCAU.E03A Carbon trigger chronograph Telemeter Black PVD & ceramic WWW.GRAHAM1695.COM

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES AHMED SEDDIQI & SONS, DUBAI – AL MANARA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY, ABU DHABI. SAUDI ARABIA PLATINUM SANDS, RIYADH – ALI BIN ALI WATCHES & JEWELRY, RIYADH & JEDDAH. QATAR ALI BIN ALI WATCHES & JEWELRY, DOHA. BAHRAIN ASIA JEWELLERS, MANAMA. KUWAIT TIARA JEWELLERY, KUWAIT. SULTANATE OF OMAN GALLERY ARGAN, MUSCAT. SYRIA ABOU WATFA, DAMASCUS.

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫‪Tread 2 Nightmare‬‬

‫‪Tread 1 Skeleton‬‬

‫مستحيلة‪ .‬في هذا اإلطار‪ ،‬يقول إيهرين براغ‪ ،‬المدير اإلداري في شركة ديفون‪« :‬إن بعض‬

‫األحزمة‪ ،‬فتتألف بدورها من عناصر تسمح بجهاز االستشعار البصري بمتابعة جميع‬

‫التقنيات التي اعتمدناها استقيناها من قطاع صناعات الطيران مثل أحزمة الوقت التي‬

‫وضعيات الحزام في جميع األوقات والحفاظ على دقة التوقيت بفارق ال يتخطى الثانية‬

‫تستخدم في قمرات قيادة الطائرة منذ عقود لﻺشارة إلى معلومات حيوية وأساسية‬

‫يومياً‪ .‬تقوم هذه اآللية على بطارية من الليثيوم التي يتطلّب شحنها ست ساعات‬

‫لعمل الطائرة مثل تحديد االرتفاع‪ .‬وتتميّز هذه األحزمة باستدامتها الطويلة لكونها‬

‫بواسطة الشحن الالسلكي وهي تدوم ألسبوعين أو ثالثة أسابيع‪ ،‬بحسب إذا كانت‬

‫محاكة من ألياف الفايبرغالس وتخضع لتجارب كثيرة تمتد على ساعات طويلة جدا ً للتأكد‬

‫الساعة تعمل بنظام صامت أم ال‪ .‬إذاً‪ ،‬ال تعمل هذه الساعة على آلية كوارتز وحسب‪،‬‬

‫تحمل درجات الحرارة المرتفعة جدا ً والذبذبات والرطوبة»‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من قدرتها على‬

‫بل تعتمد آلية كهربائية ميكانيكية هجينة ألن التصميم نفسه يستهلك الكثير من‬ ‫الطاقة وال يمكن تشغيله باعتماد آلية الكوارتز التقليدية‪ .‬والوسيلة الوحيدة لتشغيل‬

‫كيف تعمل؟‬

‫اآللية هي بالوصل بين الطاقة الكهربائية والمحركات الميكانيكية التي تحرّك األحزمة‬

‫إن مبدأ عمل ‪ Tread 1G‬بسيط جدا ً ومن السهل تفسيره‪ ،‬رغم صعوبة العملية‬

‫مثل المحرّك في سيارة كهربائية‪.‬‬

‫نفسها وتعقيدها‪ .‬تستخدم الساعة إذا ً سلسلةً من المحركات اإللكترونية األحادية‬

‫وال بد من اإلشارة إلى أن تصاميم ساعات ديفون تثير الكثير من التعليقات عند رؤيتها على‬

‫األداء والمتصلة بجهاز كمبيوتر صغير‪ .‬وتحرّك هذه المحركات أحزمة النيلون المعززة‬

‫المعصم‪ .‬ويقول سكوت ديفون‪ ،‬أحد مؤسسي الشركة‪« :‬من الصعب الذهاب إلى أي مكان‬

‫باأللياف الزجاجية والتي تشير إلى الوقت وتحرّك األرقام البيضاء لتضعها في الوضعية‬

‫دون أن يعلّق شخص ما على الساعة عندما تكون ساعة ديفون‪ .‬وهذه الساعة وسيلة‬

‫المناسبة لﻺشارة إلى الوقت بالساعات والدقائق والثواني عبر النوافذ الكبيرة التي تظهر‬

‫رائعة لبدء حديث ومن الممتع أن نري الناس كيف تعمل‪ .‬وأظن أن ما يميّزنا هو اختالفنا‬

‫على المينا‪ .‬أما اآللية المكشوفة التي صممتها شركة ديفون خصيص ًا لهذه الساعة‪،‬‬

‫الكبير عن صناعة الساعات التقليدية‪ .‬نحن نحترم صناعة الساعات التقليدية وتقاليد‬

‫فتتألف من نظام خاص من أربعة أحزمة متحرّكة دقيقة حائزة براءات اختراع‪ .‬أما‬

‫صناعة الساعات ولكننا نشبه شركة أبل ‪ Apple‬أكثر مما نشبه باتيك فيليب»‪.‬‬

‫‪32‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫تصميم ‪ BMW GMT‬من شركة ‪.Ball‬‬

‫أ ُحب سيارات ‪ BMW‬ولقد امتلكت عدة تصاميم منها على مر األعوام‪ ،‬حتى أنني في مرات‬

‫المينا‬

‫كثيرة تصفّ حت كتيّب ًا المع ًا مزين ًا بتصاميم ‪ BMW‬ويعدّ د خصائص السيارات المعروضة‬

‫إن جميع النسخ المتوفّ رة من الكرونوغراف تأتي مزوّدة بمينا سوداء فيما يأتي عقربا‬

‫صورها في الكتيّب واخترت بعناية بعض مميزاتها‪ .‬ولكنني في الفترة األخيرة‪ ،‬أمسكت‬

‫كل‬ ‫ويتضمن ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الساعات والدقائق مستطيال الشكل من الجهة األمامية ومن الجوانب‪.‬‬

‫بين يديّ كتيب ًا لم يحمل شعار ‪ BMW‬وحسب‪ ،‬بل تضمن أيض ًا اسم ماركة الساعات‬

‫عقرب األنابيب الغازية الصغرية التي تشتهر بها شركة ‪ Ball‬التي تعزّز سهولة القراءة‬

‫األميركية التاريخية الشهيرة ‪.Ball Watch Company‬‬

‫ليالً‪ .‬إلى ذلك‪ ،‬نجد هذه األنابيب الغازية الصغرية على مؤشرات الساعات الفضية اللون‪.‬‬

‫ففي األعوام األخيرة‪ ،‬تعاونت شركتا ‪ Ball‬و ‪ BMW‬لتقديم مجموعة ساعات مثيرة‬

‫أما عند موضع الرقم ‪ 3‬فنجد مؤشر التاريخ واليوم فيما نجد في الجهة المقابلة عند‬

‫مصممة الساعات لدى شركة ‪ Ball‬التي تعني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالهتمام ولقد قامت ماغالي ميتراييه –‬

‫موضع الرقم ‪ 9‬عقرب الثواني الصغير الذي يأتي ضمن مينا ثانوية حلزونية الشكل‪ .‬عند‬

‫بمشروع ‪ ، BMW‬باستهالك الكثير من الطاقة في محاولة لتجسيد جوهر السيارات‬

‫موضع الرقم ‪ ،6‬نرى مؤشر كرونوغراف يمتد على ‪ 12‬ساعة‪ ،‬إضافة إلى مؤشر كرونوغراف‬

‫ال المينا التي‬ ‫االلمانية الراقية وبعث خصائص السيارات في تصاميم الساعات‪ .‬فنرى مث ً‬

‫يمتد على ‪ 30‬دقيفة ونجده مباشرة تحت مؤشر القمر‪ .‬وتظهر تركيبة المينا مثيرةً جدا ً‬

‫تحمل تفاصيل تشبه أسطوانات الفرامل ومعدات لوحة التحكّ م والمفاتيح الكهربائية‬

‫لالهتمام ال سيما بالتدرّجات السلسة التي تتضمنها والتي تعزّز عامل االبتسامة‪ .‬أما‬

‫التي نجدها في قمرة قيادة السيارة والتي يسهل على سائقي السيارات األلمانية الصنع‬

‫القسم الوسطي من المينا والمستوحى كما يقال من شبكة سيارات ‪ ،BMW‬فتتضمن‬

‫التعرّف إليها‪ .‬وعند دخولنا عالم ‪ Ball‬واطالعنا على كيفية تجسيده لسيارات ‪،BMW‬‬

‫حلقات دائرية مرتّبة على شكل شبكة مما يمنح التصميم عمق ًا ومظهرا ً جذاب ًا يجمع‬

‫أول ما يفاتحنا تصميم ‪ Classic‬الذي يعرض للتوقيت بالساعات والدقائق والثواني‬

‫بين النور والظل‪ .‬نلحظ في التصميم أيض ًا وجود عقرب مركز خاص بالكرونوغراف‬

‫المحورية والتاريخ‪ .‬ولكن كما يستطيع زبائن ‪ BMW‬أن يشتروا تصاميم سيارات أكثر‬

‫باللون البرتقالي‪ ،‬يشبه إبرة عداد السرعة التي نجدها في سيارات ‪ BMW‬التي أطلقت في‬

‫كلفةً عبر زيادة الخصائص والتفاصيل التي فيها‪ ،‬كذلك يستيطع زبائن هذه الساعات‬

‫تسعينييات من القرن العشرين‪ ،‬فيما تحاكي المينا الثانوية وتذكّ ر بالمينا التي نجدها على‬

‫ال تصميم ‪ GMT‬المجهّ ز بمؤشر‬ ‫أن يختاروا تصاميم ساعات أكثر تعقيدا ً‪ .‬فنرى مث ً‬

‫لوحات القيادات في السيارات التي صنعت في ميونيخ‪ .‬أما حول المينا‪ ،‬فنجد عداد سرعة‬

‫حفظ الطاقة وكرونوغراف أو حتى مؤشر درجات الحرارة ونجد هذه التفاصيل المختلفة‬

‫يسمح لواضع الساعة بتحديد سرعة المركبة على مسافة معيّنة‪ .‬ولقد نجحت ميتراييه‬

‫جميعها ضمن مجموعة الساعات الخاصة بـ ‪ BMW‬من شركة ‪ .Ball‬وفي المدة االخيرة‪،‬‬

‫ال في أن تقدم مينا تسهل قراءتها وتتضمن عدة مزايا وخصائص دون التنازل عن‬ ‫فع ً‬

‫عرضت عليّ مجموعة واسعة من هذه التصاميم في مق ّر شركة ساعات ‪ Ball‬في‬

‫سهولة القراءة‪ ،‬األمر الذي يتماشى ويتطابق مع لوحات القيادة في سيارات ‪.BMW‬‬

‫الشودوفون في سويسرا واخترت التعرّف عن كثب إلى الكرونوغراف الذي يبدو الخيار‬ ‫البديهي عند شراء ساعة تحاكي عالم السيارات وتتمتع بالسرعة والحركة نفسها‪.‬‬

‫الغالف‬

‫يتوافر كرونوغراف ‪ BMW‬من شركة ‪ Ball‬مع إمكانية اختيار غالفين – من الفوالذ أو من‬

‫يبلغ قطر غالف هذا الكرونوغراف ‪ 44‬ملم وإنه واحد من أكبر التصاميم ضمن مجموعة‬

‫يجسد التفاصيل الجمالية الثورية إال أنني شعرت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الكربون الشبيه بالماس ‪ DLC‬الذي‬

‫‪ BMW‬من ‪ .Ball‬وبطريقة ما‪ ،‬يحدّ تصميم الساعة من مفهوم البعد‪ ،‬فتبدو الساعة أرقّ‬

‫بانجذاب أكبر نحو النسخة المصنوعة من الفوالذ‪.‬‬

‫بكثير من سماكتها الفعلية التي تبلغ ‪ 16‬ملم‪ .‬وعند التدقيق في الساعة عن قرب نرى أن‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪35‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫‪Ball & BMW‬‬ ‫ال بد من التركيز‬ ‫من انجوس ديفيس‬

‫تقرير ناشط وفعال حول "‪ "Ball‬وكرونوغراف ‪BMW‬‬ ‫‪34‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫ومصممة المجموعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫دانيال أليوث‪ ،‬الرئيس التنفيذي للعمليات لدى شركة ‪ Ball‬للساعات‬ ‫ماغالي متراييه‪.‬‬

‫األبحاث والتصميم‬

‫المنطقة الوسطى في‬ ‫مينا كرونوغراف ‪BMW‬‬ ‫من ‪ Ball‬مستوحى من‬ ‫شبكة سيارة ‪.BMW‬‬

‫مصممة ساعات ‪ BMW‬في شركة ‪ ،Ball‬أبحاث ًا قبل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أجرت ماغالي ميتراييه‪،‬‬ ‫ويلتف نحو األعلى ليطاول التاج‪ .‬ويتماشى هذا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األثالم تتبع خط ًا ملتوي ًا يندمج مع الغالف‬ ‫التصميم مع الخط الملتوي الذي نجده في هيكل سيارات ‪ BMW‬التي تمنح المركبة‬ ‫طابع ًا حركياً‪ .‬وعبر اعتماد هذه الميزة التصميمية‪ ،‬تلفت نظرنا األثالم الملتوية وليس‬ ‫عمق الغالف بشكل عام‪ .‬أما األزرار في الكرونوغراف‪ ،‬فتأتي بدورها ملتويةً لتمنح‬ ‫التصميم مظهرا ً رائع ًا وتعمل بالسهولة والدقة نفسها التي نجدها في أزرار سيارات‬ ‫‪ BMW‬التي تبث شعورا ً باإليجابية والثقة بخصائصها‪ .‬من جهة أخرى‪ ،‬يأتي الكرونوغراف‬ ‫مرفق ًا بسوار من الفوالذ العالي الجودة‪ ،‬الخالي من األطراف القاسية والحادة‪ ،‬والمزوّد بإبزيم‬ ‫يصدر صوت ًا عند إحكام إغالقه‪ .‬وتماشي ًا مع ساعات ‪ BMW‬من ‪ ،Ball‬يأتي الكرونوغراف‬ ‫مجهزا ً بغالف تأتي الجهة الخلفية فيه شفافة بحيث تسمح لواضع الساعة برؤية اآللية‬ ‫نصف األوتوماتيكية‪ .‬ولكن الميزة االستثنائية التي نجدها في هذه الساعة فتتمثل بشعار‬ ‫‪ BMW‬الشفاف المحفور على بلورة الصفير مما يمنح التصميم طابع ًا عصري ًا خاصاً‪.‬‬ ‫اآللية‬ ‫تقوم ساعات ‪ BMW‬من ‪ Ball‬على آلية ‪ ETA 7750‬األسطورية الذاتية التعبئة‪ .‬وفيما أوافق‬ ‫على أن هذه اآللية قد ال تكون األجمل في األسواق‪ ،‬إال أنها اكتسبت شهرتها بفضل أدائها‬ ‫القوي والخالي من أي عيوب‪ .‬ومن أبرز ميزات هذه اآللية‪ ،‬ال سيما عند مقارنتها مع آليات‬ ‫كرونوغراف متكاملة تماماً‪ ،‬فهي سهولة تصليحها وبالتالي وانخفاض كلفة امتالكها‪.‬‬ ‫وهذا التصميم هو لكرونومتر حائز على مصادقة المجلس السويسري للمصادقة على‬ ‫ويتضمن أيض ًا نظام ‪ Amortiser‬من ‪ Ball‬الحائز براءة اختراع والذي يعمل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الكرونومترات‬ ‫على التخفيف من نتائج الصدمات المفاجئة التي تتعرض لها اآللية‪ .‬ويعمل هذا النظام عبر‬ ‫تغليف اآللية بحلقة تمتص الصدمات‪ .‬من جهة أخرى‪ ،‬يمكن القول إن الرقي واألناقة واألداء‬ ‫هي كلمات تنطبق بامتياز على عدد كبير من تصاميم ‪ BMW‬القديمة والحالية‪ .‬ولقد‬ ‫أجادت ميتراييه تصوير هذه المزايا وتجسيدها ودمجها في الكرونوغراف‪ .‬وفيما تشتهر‬ ‫سيارات ‪ BMW‬بتصاميمها المريحة‪ ،‬تقدّ م ساعات ‪ BMW‬من ‪ Ball‬الروعة السلسة‬ ‫نفسها وسهولة االستخدام بفضل تصميمها والمواد المستخدمة فيها‪.‬‬

‫‪36‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫االنطالق في عملية تصميم ساعات المجموعة‪ .‬وبعد أن جمعت تفاصيل‬ ‫ومعلومات عن شركة السيارات وتصاميمها‪ ،‬باتت مدركةّ تمام اإلدراك بأنه‬ ‫تجسد أفكار الماركتين وقيمهما وتتضمن مزايا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫على تصاميم الساعات أن‬ ‫منتجاتهما‪ .‬وكان على تصاميم مجموعة ‪ BMW‬من ‪ Ball‬أن تتميّز بسهولة‬ ‫ال ونهارا ً بحسب أقوال ميتراييه التي عزّزت التضارب بين األسود‬ ‫القراءة لي ً‬ ‫والرمادي والفضي واستخدمت أنابيب ‪ Ball‬الغازية الصغرية ‪ H3‬لسهولة‬ ‫القراءة ليالً‪ .‬أما تصاميم الغالف‪ ،‬فوجب أن تكون قوية وديناميكية وتحتفظ‬ ‫بخفة الظل التي نجدها أيض ًا في هياكل سيارات ‪ .BMW‬ولقد ألهمت لوحات‬ ‫القيادة في سيارات ‪ BMW‬والمينا في ساعات ‪ Ball‬لتحديد ألوان وتصاميم‬ ‫المؤشرات على المينا بحيث تبدو شبيهة بعداد السرعة في السيارة‪ ،‬ولقد‬ ‫قامت ميتراييه بتعديلها لتتسع فيها األنابيب الغازية الصغرية‪ .‬ولقد أثّرت‬ ‫السيارات والساعات في تصاميم هذه المجموعة أيض ًا من ناحية الشبكات‬ ‫وأسطوانات الفرامل حيث حرصت ميتراييه على االحتفاظ بالتفاصيل المريحة‬ ‫لكي تمنح الهيكلية وملمس التاج الشعور نفسه الذي تمنحه األزرار في سيارة‬ ‫‪.BMW‬‬ ‫من جهتها‪ ،‬تستمر شركة ‪ BMW‬بإطالق تصاميم سيارات جديدة ومبتكرة‪،‬‬ ‫أحدثها كان إطالق شركة السيارات األلمانية السيارة الكهربائية الرائعة ‪i8‬‬ ‫التي تعمل على محرّك كهربائي مع محرّك وقود من أجل تقديم أفضل توفير‬ ‫وأداء‪ .‬وبما أن مجموعة ساعات ‪ BMW‬من ‪ Ball‬سبق أن أطلقت عام ‪2012‬‬ ‫قبل صدور سيارة ‪ ،i8‬سألت دانيال أليوث‪ ،‬كبير موظفي التشغيل في شركة‬ ‫‪ Ball‬للساعات إذا كان ينوي إصدار ساعات جديدة مستوحاة من سيارة ‪i8‬‬ ‫ال بعد أن أوحى لي باحتمال إطالق تصاميم ساعات جديدة‬ ‫ولكنه تركني متسائ ً‬ ‫في معرض بازل ورلد للساعات لعام ‪ 2015‬دون أن يقدّ م أي معلومات إضافية‪.‬‬ ‫والوقت كفيل بأن يكشف لنا عما ينتظر عاشقي السيارات والساعات‪ ،‬ال سيما‬ ‫من حيث التصاميم التي تحمل شعار سيارات ‪.BMW‬‬

‫ف‬

‫ع‬

‫سا‬

‫المساحة في قلب بلورة الصفير في ساعة ‪HM6‬‬ ‫ال إن الخطوط‬ ‫ال تتّسع له‪ .‬ويضيف ياديغاروغلو قائ ً‬

‫‪HM‬‬ ‫ة‪6‬‬

‫ال‬

‫جه‬

‫لخلفية‬ ‫م‬ ‫ن‬ ‫غ‬ ‫ال‬ ‫ةا‬

‫مصممة بأسلوب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الملتوية في هذه الساعة‬ ‫عضوي أكثر مما نراه في التصاميم السابقة‬ ‫ولقد استوحي الغالف الدائري من حركة الفن‬ ‫البيولوجي الذي يستقي خطوطه من عناصر‬ ‫التصميم المبنية على األشكال الحية‪.‬‬ ‫القبب األربعة‬ ‫تحيط بآلية التوربيون وبغطائها المتحرّك قبّتين‬ ‫زمنيتين وقبّتين توربينيتين‪ .‬ولقد صنعت قبتا‬ ‫الدقائق والساعات الرقيقتين جدا ً من كتل من المعدن‬ ‫وتتميّز بتفاصيل من الياقوت؛ وتتحرّك بشكل عمودي‬ ‫عبر معدات مشطوبة تنقل طاقة اآللية األوتوماتيكية من‬ ‫المنصة األفقية التقليدية إلى القبة التي تدور بشكل عمودي‪ .‬وفي‬ ‫مقابل القبب التي تشير إلى الوقت نرى تروبينتين تتحركان دائري ًا فيما‬ ‫يدور الدوار في اآللية‪ .‬تتحرّك هذه التربينات بفعل حركة دوران الدوار بسرعة‬ ‫كل مرة‬ ‫‪ 18‬ألف ضربة في الساعة بفضل سلسلة مصممة لتعزيز عدد الدورات‪ .‬وفي ّ‬ ‫يتحرّك فيها المعصم‪ ،‬تدور هذه التوربينات بمعدل سرعة يفوق سرعة دوران الدّ وار‪.‬‬

‫تسمح الجهة الخلفية من غالف ساعة ‪ HM6‬المصنوعة من بلورة صفير برؤية جزء‬ ‫من آلية التعبئة ودوار التعبئة المحوري األخضر المصنوع من البالتين‪.‬‬

‫أما النتيجة‪ ،‬فتحاكي الحلزون الدّ وار الخاص بأخصائي التنويم المغنطيسي مما يلقي‬ ‫كل من‬ ‫الضوء على الجاذبية النحتية الحركية في ساعة ‪ .HM6 Space Pirate‬تتألف ّ‬ ‫هاتين التربينتين الدوارتين من خمس عشرة شفرة معقوفة مرتّبة ضمن نصفي‬ ‫دائرة ومصنوعة من كتل من األلمنيوم‪ .‬وإلى جانب دورها الجمالي الفعال‪ ،‬تعمل هذه‬ ‫التوربينات على مراقبة سرعة الدوار لضمان أدنى درجة ممكنة من التآكل‪ .‬أما الهدف‬ ‫التقني من هذا الحزام الجذاب والجميل المصنوع من التيتانيوم (الذي نراه عبر الجهتين‬ ‫األمامية والخلفية من غالف التيتانيوم)‪ ،‬فهو أكثر وضوحاً‪ :‬إن مساحة المعدن االستثنائية‬ ‫تحفظ غالف اآللية الرقيق والقوي وتحميه‪ .‬في الواقع‪ ،‬يقوم هذا الحزام بتعزيز الغالف‬ ‫بشكل عام ويقوم مقام وسيلة دعم لألثالم الحرة المتحركة‪.‬‬ ‫ستصنع شركة ‪ MB&F‬خمسين قطعة من ساعة ‪ HM6‬بغالف التيتانيوم إضافة إلى‬ ‫يتم الكشف عنها بعد‪.‬‬ ‫خمسين آلية إضافية ستأتي ضمن أغلفة مصنوعة من معادن لم ّ‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪39‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫وتم ابتكارها حصري ًا لساعة ‪ HM6‬من ‪ MB&F‬مع ‪.David Candaux Horlogerie Créative‬‬ ‫استغرق تطوير آلية ‪ HM6‬أكثر من ثالث سنوات ّ‬

‫دوائر فضائية‬

‫التوربيون ‪ HM6 Space Pirate‬الجديد من ‪MB&F‬‬ ‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫تقوم ساعة ‪ HM6 Space Pirate‬من ‪ MB&F‬بحماية التوربيون الذي يشغّ لها‬

‫كذلك‪ ،‬صنعت نسخة سابقة من هذا التصميم وتضمن قشرةً من التيتانيوم تمام ًا كما‬

‫بواسطة دائرة من الصفير ويغزو الكون! ولقد شكّ لت الرؤى بشكل السفر إلى الفضاء‬

‫في الساعة الجديدة‪.‬‬

‫مرةً جديدةً مصدر وحي لماكس بوسر لتصميم ساعة جديدة‪ .‬فكانت النسخة األحدث‬

‫ولكن هنا تنتهي نقاط التشابه بين الساعتين؛ ففيما كان التصميم السابق أرضي ًا بالكامل‪،‬‬

‫من ساعة ‪ HM6 Space Pirate‬التي أتت وليدة حنين بوسر لمسلسل تلفزيوني ياباني‬

‫تعتبر ساعة ‪ Space Pirate‬أو قرصان الفضاء كما يوحي اسمها‪ ،‬موطن ًا للمجرات البعيدة‪.‬‬

‫في سبعينييات القرن العشرين اشتهر في الدول الفرنكوفونية باسم القبطان فالم‬

‫ويشدّ د كاريس ياديغاروغلو من شركة ‪ MB&F‬على أن الفضاء بيئة معادية ألقصى حدود‪.‬‬

‫تم ابتكاره انطالق ًا من شخصية خيالية أميركية من أربعينييات وخمسينييات‬ ‫وقد ّ‬

‫وبالتالي‪ ،‬ولحماية آلية التوربيون في ساعة ‪ HM6‬ونظرا ً لكونها مثبتة بالبيئة األقل عدائية‬

‫القرن العشرين عرفت باسم قبطان المستقبل‪ .‬كان القبطان يقود مركبة فضائية‬

‫على المعصم‪ ،‬بنى مصممو الساعات في الشركة في قلب هذه الساعة‪ ،‬درع ًا حامي ًا من‬

‫تم تصميمها على شكل بيولوجي يتألف من‬ ‫عرفت باسم ‪ Comet‬أو مذنّب وقد ّ‬

‫التيتانيوم نصف دائري الشكل وقابل للسحب‪ .‬عندما يُفتح‪ ،‬يمنع الدرع األشعة ما فوق‬

‫ويفسر هذا الشكل سبب هيمنة األشكال الدائرية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫دائرتين متصلتين بواسطة أنبوب‪.‬‬

‫والتسبب مبكرا ً بأكسدة زيوت التزليق في اآللية في قلب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫البنفسجية من بلوغ اآللية‬

‫على تصميم ساعة ‪ HM6‬الجديدة التي تتضمن خمس دوائر وعشر بلورات صفير رائعة‬

‫الغالف‪ .‬وبطرف العين‪ ،‬يفتح الغطاء ويقفل بمجرد تحريك التاج إلى اليسار‪ .‬أما الغالف‬

‫وتاجين كبيرين متّصلين بواسطة قطعة مصقولة من التيتانيوم غير الالمع‪ .‬وتحاكي‬

‫نفسه‪ ،‬فمكوّ ن معقّ د الهندسة ويتميّز بشفرات معقوفة متراصفة رقيقة جدا ً ومصنوعة‬

‫اثنتان من الدوائر تصميم ساعة ‪ HM3 Frog‬السابقة حيث أصبحت العيون الجاحظة‬

‫من سبيكة من التيتانيوم الخام‪ .‬أما آلية التوربيون التي نجدها تحت قبة الصفير المحدّ بة‬

‫في الضفدع هي مؤشرات الساعات والدقائق تمام ًا كما نراها في تصميم ‪ HM6‬الجديد‪.‬‬

‫فمن النوعية النطاطة ألن آلية التوربيون التقليدية تحتاج إلى جسر دعم علوي إال أن‬

‫‪38‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫ملزمة إلحكام ختم الساعة‪ ،‬ضمان صالبتها بالكامل ومقاومتها للماء‪ BR 03 .‬هي أداء‬ ‫احترافية أصلية تلبي متطلبات المالحين الجويين المحترفين في الوضوح بالقراءة‪ .‬تتعزز‬ ‫قراءة وجه الساعة من خالل التشطيب النهائي للعلبة باللون األسود غير الالمع الموجود‬ ‫على لوحة عدادات الطائرات‪ ،‬والذي يجنّب انعكاس الضوء‪ .‬ويسمح التصميم الرصين‪،‬‬ ‫اللون األسود لوجه الساعة‪ ،‬األرقام البيضاء الكبيرة‪ ،‬وشكل العقارب مع طالئها بمادة‬ ‫مضيئة ذاتياَ بقراءة فورية للوقت سواء في النهار أو في الليل‪.‬‬ ‫تحفة سرمدية‬ ‫ليست ‪ BR 03‬ساعة مخصصة حصري ًا للمستخدمين المحترفين فقط‪ ،‬بل هي‬ ‫أيض ًا ساعة مميزة يطلبها العديد من جامعي القطع القيّمة‪ .‬ومع تجهيزها بحركة‬ ‫سويسرية عالية الجودة‪ ،‬تؤكد هذه الساعة المصممة للمحترفين على خصائصها‬ ‫الوظيفية والعملية من خالل أربعة مبادئ أساسية تتضمنها‪ :‬القراءة الواضحة‪ ،‬األداء‬ ‫العملي‪ ،‬الدقة المتناهية واالعتمادية العالية‪ .‬صحيح أن قياسها ‪ 24‬ملليمترا ً لكنها‬ ‫تتالءم مع كل القياسات‪.‬‬ ‫‪FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪41‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫الﺴاعة اﻵلة‬ ‫من‬ ‫الﺴيراميﻚ‬ ‫تمتاز ساعات «بيل آند روس» ‪ Bell & Ross‬بقدرتها على تلبية متطلبات العاملين في‬ ‫أقسى الظروف‪ ،‬مما مكّ نها من إرساء سمعة واسعة وطيبة لنفسها بين المستخدمين‬ ‫المحترفين‪ .‬واليوم‪ ،‬يستخدم مالحون فضائيون‪ ،‬طيارون حربيون‪ ،‬غطاسون‪ ،‬خبراء إ زالة‬ ‫األلغام ونخبة ضباط الشرطة ساعات «بيل آند روس» كأداة في عملهم‪.‬‬ ‫خالل سعيهم البتكار ساعة مثالية بأدائها العملي وباالعتماد على خبراتهم في‬ ‫سخر مهندسون‪ ،‬صانعو ساعات كبار‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المجال العسكري ومجال – المالحة الجوية‬ ‫مصممون ومالحون جويون محترفون خبراتهم كافة لتحديد مفهوم أصلي‪ :‬الساعة اآللة‬ ‫‪ .Instrument Watch‬وبما أن أجهزة المالحة الجوية هي المعيار الذهبي فيما يتعلق‬ ‫بسهولة القراءة‪ ،‬االعتمادية واألداء العالي‪ ،‬تردد ساعة ‪ BR 03‬صدى مبادئ التصميم‬ ‫لساعة قمرة القيادة للطائرات‪ .‬إنها ساعة عملية جدا ً مثالية لالستخدام المهني‪ ،‬كما‬ ‫أنها التجسيد المثالي لفلسفة العالمة التجارية‪ :‬تصميم يقوده األداء الوظيفي‪.‬‬ ‫تتمتع «بيل آند روس» بطموح ثابت وهو المحافظة على استخدام أحدث التقنيات في‬ ‫صناعة الساعات‪ ،‬كما أنها أحد رواد أحدث التكنولوجيات‪ ،‬خصوص ًا تلك التي ابتكرت ألول‬ ‫مرة لالستخدام في المالحة الجوية أو لالستخدام العسكري‪ .‬في سنة ‪ ، 2014‬ولختم‬ ‫رؤيتها العصرية في صناعة الساعات االحترافية‪ ،‬عززت «بيل آند روس» ساعة ‪BR 03‬‬ ‫بمادة عالية‪.‬‬ ‫التقنية ومقاومة للتلف‪ :‬السيراميك‬ ‫علبة متطورة جدا ً من السيراميك في المالحة الجوية‪ ،‬وخصوص ًا في المالحة الفضائية‪،‬‬ ‫يتم اختيار السيراميك كمادة لصنع القطع التي يجب أن تتحمل الحرارة الشديدة االرتفاع‪،‬‬

‫‪40‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫التعرض لألحماض‪ ،‬الصدأ والتآكل‪ .‬لهذا السبب يمكننا أن نجد السيراميك في طبقات‬ ‫العزل الحراري أو في مقدمة مركبة فضائية‪ .‬كذلك‪ ،‬يستخدم في المجال الطبي بسبب‬ ‫قدرته على التوافق الحيوي‪.‬‬ ‫أعادت «بيل آند روس» العمل على السيراميك‪ ،‬وطوّ رت عملية تصنيع محددة تعزز من‬ ‫خاللها المزايا الجوهرية لهذه المادة المميزة التي تستطيع مقاومة الخدوش‪ ،‬والتي ال‬ ‫يبهت لونها وتتمتع بوزن أخف من المواد األخرى‪.‬‬ ‫• مقاومة الخدوش‪ :‬السيراميك هو إحدى أقسى المواد في العالم بعد األلماس‪ ،‬مما‬ ‫يجعله يقاوم التلف والبهتان‪ ،‬ولونه غير المطلي يتحمل عوامل الزمن‪.‬‬ ‫• خفّ ة الوزن‪ :‬أخف من الفوالذ مع ذلك يبقى فائق القوة‪.‬‬ ‫• الراحة‪ :‬ال يسبب الحساسية‪ ،‬سهل االرتداء وناعم الملمس كما أنه يتأقلم فورا ً مع‬ ‫حرارة الجسم‪.‬‬ ‫التكنولوجيا واألداء‬ ‫أجبرت عملية تصنيع ‪ BR 03‬من السيراميك المصممين على مراجعة البنية المعقّ دة‬ ‫للعلبة‪ .‬تم بناء ‪ BR 03‬حول الحركة وهيكل‪ ،‬غطاء وظهر من السيراميك للعلبة‪ ،‬لحماية‬ ‫صندوقها من الفوالذ‪ .‬وتعمل ثمانية براغي ظاهرة على خارج العلبة من السيراميك مثل‬

‫األنابيب‬ ‫في الجوهر‪ ،‬تعتمد جميع المجموعات على مستوعبين مرنين )العناصر التي تأتي على‬ ‫كل‬ ‫شكل أنابيب والظاهرة في الصورة إلى اليمين مع أنبوﺏ دقيق جدا ً متّصل بطرفي ّ‬ ‫ال مضيئ ًا يعرف باسم ‪ Fluorescein‬فيما‬ ‫مستوعب‪ .‬ونجد في أحد المستوعبين سائ ً‬ ‫يحتوي المستوعب الثاني سائل لزج ًا شفافاً‪ .‬وعند الفصل بين السائلين‪ ،‬تتشكل القوة‬

‫ساعة ‪H2 Titanium Platinum SQ‬‬ ‫والمحدودة من ‪ 1٥‬نسخة فقط‬

‫كل سائل‪ .‬ومع مرور الساعات‪ ،‬يندفع الكباس داخل أحد المستوعبين‬ ‫الدافقة بين جزئيات ّ‬ ‫ويدفع السائل الملوّ ن المضيء داخل األنبوﺏ الدقيق فيما يمتلﺊ األنبوﺏ اآلخر بالسائل‬ ‫الشفاف‪ .‬تعرف نقطة التقاء السائلين باسم النقطة المقعّ رة وتقوم مقام عقرﺏ‬ ‫الساعات وتشير إلى الوقت حول المينا‪ .‬وعند الساعة السادسة‪ ،‬يعود السائل المضيء‬ ‫إلى موقعه األساسي؛ وفيما يتراجع هذا السائل إلى مكانه بسرعة‪ ،‬يحاكي السائل حركة‬ ‫العقرﺏ التراجعي ويعزّز تنفيذ ‪ HyT‬لتصميمها الثوري ومؤشراتها الكالسيكية التي تظهر‬

‫ساعة ‪ H1 Red 2‬والمحدودة ايض ًا‬ ‫من ‪ 1٥‬نسخة فقط‬

‫الوقت‪ .‬تقوم الساعة بشكل عام طبع ًا على آلية يدوية التعبئة مثبتة داخل غالف الساعة‪،‬‬ ‫وهي التي تحرّﻙ أيض ًا الكباسين اللذين يتحكمان بتدفق السائل داخل المستوعبين في‬ ‫ظل التحكم بعقرﺏ الدقائق وأسطوانة الثواني في ساعة ‪ H1‬وعقرﺏ الدقائق النطاﻁ في‬ ‫ساعة ‪ .H2‬على صعيد آخر‪ ،‬شكّ لت مستشعرات الناسا مصدر وحي لتصميم مستوعبات‬ ‫في ساعة ‪ HyT‬ذلك أن هذه الشركة استفادة من خبرة الشركة الشقيقة ‪Preciflex‬‬ ‫في مجال ديناميكيات السوائل وقامت بتصغير تصميم فضائي خاﺹ بالناس ووضعه‬ ‫داخل غالف الساعة بحيث تتمكن الساعة من العمل انطالق ًا من الطاقة الناتجة عن‬

‫ساعة ‪ H2 Titanium‬والذهب االبيﺾ‬ ‫محدودة من ‪ 20‬نسخة‬

‫المستوعبات الكالسيكية التصميم‪ .‬وال يفاجئنا أن تكون هذه األبحاث وعملية التطوير‬ ‫ال على التوصل إلى إنجازات تقنية كثيرة لم يسبق‬ ‫كلها تعني أن الشركة كانت تعمل فع ً‬ ‫ال ‪ HyT‬بتسجيل‬ ‫ال لها في مجال صناعة الساعات المتطوّ رة‪ .‬ولقد نجحت فع ً‬ ‫أن رأينا مثي ً‬ ‫سبع براءات اختراع في مجال التقنيات الهيدروميكانيكية إضافة إلى براءة اختراع إضافية‬ ‫في مجال تصميم الساعات‪ .‬ولقد استحقت إنجازات الشركة الكثير من المديح من‬ ‫الشركات الزميلة لها‪ :‬ففي العام ‪ ،2012‬فازت ‪ HyT‬بجائزة تصميم الساعة األكثر ابتكارا ً‬ ‫في مسابقة جنيﻒ ألفضل الساعات‪.‬‬

‫مصدر طاقة ساعة ‪ H2‬ويظهر من‬ ‫خلﻒ الساعة‬

‫ساعات ‪H1‬‬ ‫كانت ساعة ‪ H1‬التصميم األول الذي يصدر عن مختبرات ‪ HyT‬الهيدروميكانيكية وأتت‬ ‫ضمن مجموعة من الساعات المصنوعة من التيتانيوم التي يبلغ قطر غالفها ‪ ٤٨،٨‬ملم‬ ‫والتي تبدو للوهلة األولى وكأنها تجمع بين تصميم ثوري استثنائي ومينا تقليدية واحدة‬ ‫على األقل تعرض للدقائق‪ .‬وتتميّز وتتضمن هذه التصاميم إذا ً مؤشرا ً صغيرا ً لحفظ الطاقة‬ ‫ثوان بين الرقمين ‪ ٩‬و‪ .10‬ويتوافر أحد التصاميم من ساعة‬ ‫يظهر بين الرقمين ‪ ٣‬و‪ ٤‬ومؤشر ﹴ‬ ‫‪ H1‬بأغلفة مختلفة ومعادن مختلفة‪ ،‬منها األلمنيوم والتيتانيوم والذهب وجميعها‬ ‫متوافرة بمختلﻒ التركيبات‪ .‬إضافة إلى كل ما تقدّ م‪ ،‬يتميّز عدد كبير من تصاميم ساعة‬ ‫‪ H1‬بكون أغلفتها مصنوعة من مواد غريبة وغير اعتيادية؛ فعلى سبيل المثال‪ ،‬تأتي ساعة‬ ‫‪ H1 Azo Project‬الجديدة مرفقة بغالف مصنوع من مادة ‪ ،Azo polyepoxyde‬إنه‬ ‫مزيج معدني شبه شفاف أخﻒ بكثير من الفوالذ ومقاوم للتﺂكل أكثر من الفوالذ بثالث‬ ‫مرات‪ .‬أما ساعة ‪ H1 Graphite Project‬الجديدة‪ ،‬فتأتي بغالف من ‪polyepoxyde‬‬ ‫بلون داكن أكثر فيما يأتي غالف ساعة ‪ H1 Alumen blue‬مصنوع ًا من مزيج معدني‬ ‫من األلمنيوم المأكسد األزرق اللون فيما تأتي ساعة ‪ H1 Dracula DLC‬مزودة بغالف‬ ‫من التيتانيوم األسود المطلي بمادة ‪ DLC‬والمليء بسائل أحمر والذي يتميّز بأسطح‬ ‫مصقولة وناعمة‪.‬‬ ‫‪FEbRuARy - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪43‬‬

‫‪TECHNICAL‬‬ ‫تقنيات‬

‫انسيابية الوقت‬ ‫ساعة ‪H2 Black DLC‬‬ ‫والذهب الزهري‬

‫ساعة ‪HYT H1 AZO Project‬‬

‫إن السوائل الملوّ نة التي تجري داخل ساعات ‪ HyT‬تجعل‬ ‫منها تصاميم هيدروميكانيكية رائدة وتمنح مفهوم‬ ‫«انسيابية الوقت» معنى جديد‪.‬‬ ‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫لطالما عانى صانعو الساعات لإلبقاء على السوائل خارج أغلفة ساعاتهم‪ .‬وفيما الساعات‬

‫من الفكرة إلى التصميم‬

‫المقاومة للماء أو الساعة الخاصة بعالم المياه موجودة منذ قرون‪ ،‬إال أن الساعات التي‬

‫أراد فوياموز أساس ًا أن يقوم بتصغير ديناميكيات الساعات المائية القديمة التي كانت‬

‫تأتي على مقاس المعصم تكون عادةً محكمة اإلغالق لتبعد العناصر المائية عن أجزائها‬

‫تعرف باسم ‪ Clepsydra‬بالالتينية‪ ،‬لكي تصبح بحجم يتالءم وحجم المعصم‪ .‬وبعد‬

‫الداخلية‪ .‬والزيت هو السائل الوحيد الذي يرغب صانعو ساعات المعصم في رؤيته على‬

‫أعوام من العمل المضني على هذه الفكرة‪ ،‬قرّر فوياموز أن يقوم بدمج ميكانيكيات‬

‫مقربة من معداتهم المتطوّ رة وأجزاء ساعاتهم وميناها‪ .‬في الواقع‪ ،‬تتباهى معظم‬

‫السوائل في صناعة الساعات األمر الذي أوصله إلى تأسيس شركة جديدة عرفت‬

‫شركات صناعة الساعات بقدرة منتجاتها على مقاومة المياه والسوائل بفضل تصاميمها‬

‫باسم ‪ HyT‬ووضع الخطط األساسية للعمل بنظام هيدروليكي مغلق وآلية ساعات‬

‫المقاومة للمياه‪ .‬وعندما أطلقت شركة ‪ HyT‬قبل سنوات ما يمكن اعتباره فئة جديدةً‬

‫سويسرية مثبتة يدوية التعبئة في الوقت نفسه‪.‬‬

‫من الساعات التي تركّ ز على استخدامها للسوئل كجزء أساسي من اآللية عند قراءة‬

‫ولقد صنّفت هذه الشركة على أنها «مواجهة بين صناعة الساعات الراقية وميكانيكيات‬

‫الوقت‪ ،‬أبدى الكثير من المراقبين تشكيكهم في المسألة‪.‬‬

‫السوائل» ولقد استغرق تصميم تصاميم ساعاتها وتنفيذها عدة سنوات بعد إنتاج‬

‫عندما بدأت تصاميم ‪ HyT‬األولى تبلغ معاصم هواة جمع الساعات عام ‪ ،2012‬سرعان ما‬

‫تمت دراستها وإتالفها بين ظهور فكرة فوياموز االولى وإطالق‬ ‫الكثير من النماذج التي ّ‬

‫أصبح المشككون من عاشقي هذه الماركة وتقنيتها المعتمدة‪ .‬وكانت الماركة قد‬

‫تصميم ‪ H1‬األول بعد عشر سنوات‪.‬‬

‫أطلقت تصميمها األول ‪ H1‬الذي أظهر للعالم أجمع أن ‪ HyT‬نجحت بالتحكم بخصائص‬

‫في العام ‪ ،2010‬لجأ فوياموز إلى خدمات خبير صناعة الساعات پيريار الذي يمتلك خبرةً‬

‫السائل واستخدامها للداللة على الوقت‪ .‬وعبر ابتكار عالم جديد من الهيدروميكانيكيات‬

‫في العمل على مؤشرات حفظ الطاقة المشبعة بالسوائل التي كان قد صنعها‬

‫في قلب عالم صناعة الساعات‪ ،‬يكون المدير العام التنفيذي لشركة ‪ HyT‬فنسان پيريار‬

‫لشركة كونكورد قبل سنوات مما جعله الشريك المثالي إلدارة مشروع ‪ HyT‬الثوري‬

‫وفريق صانعي الساعات العامل معه‪ ،‬قد نجحوا في تحقيق مسعى مؤسس الدار لوسيان‬

‫المستقبلي الذي يعني بالهيدروميكانيكيات‪.‬‬

‫فوياموز الذي فكّ ر في الجمع بين ميكانيكيات السوائل وصناعة الساعات المتطوّ رة قبل‬

‫وفي مرحلة الحقة‪ ،‬قامت ‪ HyT‬والشركة الشقيقة لها ‪ Preciflex‬التي تعني بصناعة‬

‫عقد من الزمن‪ .‬وفوياموز مهندس نووي وأخصائي في ميكانيكيات السوائل وخطرت‬

‫مصمم اآلليات جان فرانسوا موجون وفريق عمله في‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العناصر السائلة‪ ،‬باستخدام‬

‫له هذه الفكرة في البداية خالل المعرض السويسري الوطني في العام ‪ 2012‬بين بحيرات‬

‫شركة كونكورد لتصميم تصاميم ‪ H1‬األولى؛ كذلك‪ ،‬استخدمت ‪ HyT‬صانع الساعات‬

‫نوشاتيل حيث شاءت سخرية القدر أن ترى الكثير من الساعات التقليدية المقاومة للمياه‬

‫جيوليو پاپي‪ ،‬المدير التقني في دار ‪ Audemars Piguet‬لبناء ساعة ‪ H2‬التي تشكّ ل‬

‫والسويسرية الصنع النور قبل مئات السنوات‪.‬‬

‫أحدث مجموعة ساعات أصدرتها الدار‪.‬‬

‫‪42‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEbRuARy - MARCH 2015‬‬

H1 | dracula dlc The H1 is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. H1 is a proprietary Swiss movement - with a 65 hour power reserve and manual winding - driving a unique high-tech fluidic module. HYT - a new dawn in watchmaking.

hytwatches.com

‫‪TECHNICAL‬‬ ‫تقنيات‬

‫يظهر البعد الثالثي إلطار ساعات‬ ‫‪ HYT‬من الجانب‬

‫دومينيك رينو‪ ،‬مبتكر وصانع‬ ‫ينضم إلى ‪HYT‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الساعات الشهير‬

‫ساعات ‪H2‬‬ ‫تتميّز مجموعة الساعات الثانية ‪ H2‬بﺂلية محدّ ثة تتضمن المستوعبات ونظام‬

‫المستخدمة في صنع الغالف والخيارات المتوفرة من األساور‪ .‬وال بد من اإلشارة إلى أن‬

‫المستشعرات والمجسات والمكابس وتكشﻒ في الوقت نفسه عن جميع العناصر‬

‫كبير صانعي الساعات دومينيك رينو‪ ،‬أحد مؤسسي شركة صناعة الساعات الشهيرة‬

‫عبر الجهتين األمامية والخلفية من اآللية‪ ،‬علم ًا أنها تأتي بحجم الغالف نفسه‪ ،‬وتحديدا ً‬

‫رينو أند پاپي )التي بات اسمها عام ‪،(Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi 1٩٩2‬‬

‫‪ ٤٨،٨‬ملم‪ .‬وقام صانعو الساعات في شركة رينو أند پاپي بتغيير موقع المستوعبين‬

‫أصبح رئيس قسم صناعة الساعات الراقية وقسم المشاريع الخاصة في شركة ‪HyT‬‬

‫من مكانهما العمودي في أسفل الغالف ووضعوهما عند موقع الرقم ‪ ٦‬في وضعية على‬

‫في منشأتها في نوشاتيل‪ .‬تعمل ‪ HyT‬على إصدار عدة براءات اختراع من خالل شراكتها‬

‫شكل الرقم ‪ ٧‬كما في محركات السيارات أو الطائرات‪.‬‬

‫المتينة بشركة ‪ Preciflex‬التي تطوّ ر حصري ًا آليات ‪ HyT‬التي تعمل بالسوائل‪ ،‬كما أن رينو‬

‫ويقوم هذا التصميم الجديد بتعزيز طريقة اآللية في دمج السائل في اآللية‪ ،‬تحفظ ساعة‬

‫صممت رينو‬ ‫سيعمل مع الشركة من أجل توسيع فريق صانعي الساعات لدى ‪ .HyT‬ولقد ّ‬

‫‪ H2‬الطاقة لمدة أطول )‪ ٨‬أيام( مقارنةً مع ساعة ‪ ٦٥) H1‬ساعة(‪ .‬وأضافت رينو أند‬

‫أند پاپي ساعة جديدةً لـ‪ HyT‬ضمن مجموعة ‪ H2‬تتميّز بقدرة أطول على حفظ الطاقة‬

‫پاپي عند موقع الرقم ‪ ٣‬مؤشرا ً خاص ًا بموقع التاج ‪ H-N-R‬وكانت تنوي أن تنسﺦ عصا‬

‫وتتمتع بمظهر رياضيّ أكثر من ساعة ‪ .H1‬وفي هذا اإلطار‪ ،‬يقول فنسان پيريار‪« :‬لدينا بعد‬

‫التعشيق في سيارة سباق على أن تكون أيض ًا مؤشرا ً من شأنه أن يذكر جامعي الساعات‬

‫األفكار المبتكرة الجديدة في مرحلة التطوير‪ ،‬أفكار ستولّد إنجازات ثورية ستعزّز قدرتنا‬

‫تم ابتكارها واستخدامها في ساعات ‪Audemars‬‬ ‫بأداة مشابهة من توقيع رينو أند پاپي ّ‬

‫على تشغيل آليات ‪ ،HyT‬األمر الذي من شأنه أن يسمح لنا بتقديم تعقيدات وآليات جديدة‬

‫‪ Piguet‬المتطوّ رة‪.‬‬

‫تجمع بين األنظمة الميكانيكية والسائلة في ساعة معصم واحدة»‪.‬‬

‫وتشير األحرف في هذا المؤشر إلى مزايا التاج‪ H :‬تشير إلى الساعات و‪ N‬لوضعية محايدة و‬

‫تتوفر ساعة ‪ HyT H2 Titanium Platinum SQ‬ضمن مجموعة محدودة من ‪1٥‬‬

‫‪ R‬لنظام التعبئة‪ .‬ويقابل نظام ‪ HNR‬عقرﺏ خاﺹ بدرجات الحرارة وهو حصري لشركة‬

‫قطعة؛ أما ساعة ‪ H1 Red 2‬فتتميّز بغالف من التيتانيوم وأسطح مصقولة وملساء‬

‫‪ .HyT‬فلمعادلة آثار الحرارة والبرد على وضعية السائل‪ ،‬يظهر هذا المؤشر الحراري إن‬

‫وموضع زجاجة وأثالم من الذهب الزهري وستصنع منها ‪ ٥0‬قطعة‪ .‬ويمكن رؤية مصدر‬

‫كانت الساعة في القسم الحراري األقصى‪ .‬ويختلﻒ عقرﺏ الدقائق في ساعة ‪ H2‬عن‬

‫كل منها‬ ‫الطاقة من خالل الجهة الخلفية من الغالف بفضل البراميل الهيكلية التي يمنح ّ‬

‫عقرﺏ الدقائق في ساعة ‪ H1‬التي تتميّز بمينا تقليدية‪ .‬وأيضاً‪ ،‬في ساعة ‪ ،H2‬يقفز‬

‫قدرةً على حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ ٨‬أيام‪ .‬أما ساعة ‪H2 Titanium & White Gold blue‬‬

‫العقرﺏ فوق المستوعبين ويحاكي االنسياﺏ التراجعي الذي يقوم به السائل عند الساعة‬

‫فتتميّز بغالف من التيتانيوم وموضع زجاجة من الذهب األبيﺾ وستصنع منها ‪ 20‬قطعة‪.‬‬

‫السادسة‪ .‬ومن التصاميم الجديدة في مجموعة ‪ ،H2‬نذكر‪H2 Titanium Platinum :‬‬

‫وقامت شركة ‪ HyT‬بفضل تصاميم مجموعة ‪ H2‬بما فيها ساعة ‪H2 black DLC‬‬

‫‪ SQ‬و ‪ H2 Titanium & White Gold blue‬و ‪.H2 black DLC & Pink Gold‬‬

‫‪ & Pink Gold‬بتغيير مكان مستوعبيها الشهيرين وتثبيتهما على شكل الرقم ‪٧‬‬

‫كل من هذه التصاميم ضمن مجموعة محدودة من ‪ 1٥‬أو ‪ 20‬قطعة‪ .‬ولقد عرضنا‬ ‫يتوافر ّ‬

‫تذكيرا ً بوضعية المكابس في محركات السيارات والطائرات‪ .‬ستتوافر ساعة ‪HyT H2‬‬

‫كل تصميم والمواد‬ ‫عدة صور لساعات ‪ H1‬و‪ H2‬ضمن هذا المقال مع تفاصيل عن ّ‬

‫‪ Titanium Platinum SQ‬ضمن مجموعة محدودة من ‪ 1٥‬قطعة‪.‬‬

‫‪44‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEbRuARy - MARCH 2015‬‬

H2 | Iceberg wHIte gold hyt is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. h2, unique swiss technology and movement made in cooperation with audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi - manual winding and 8-day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech fluidic technology. hyt - a new dawn in watchmaking.

hytwatches.com

‫‪TECHNICAL‬‬ ‫تقنيات‬

‫ﻓﻨساﻥ ﭘﺮﻳاﺭ ‪ -‬ﺭﺋيﺲ ‪HyT‬‬ ‫ﻛﻴﻒ أﺻﺒﺤﺖ ﺷﺮﻳﻜ ًﺎ ﻓﻲ رؤﻳﺔ ﻟﻮﺳﻴﺎن‬

‫بـ ‪ HyT‬على المنصة الخاصة بنا‪ .‬وقد أعطينا أكثر من ‪ ٣00‬مقابلة خالل ثمانية أيام‪ ،‬وكان‬

‫ﻓﻮﻳﺎﻣﻮز ﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻫﻴﺪروﻣﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻴﺔ؟‬

‫الحشد يبدأ في ‪ HyT‬من الساعة التاسعة صباح ًا حتى الليل‪ ،‬كان نجاﺡ منقطع النظير‪،‬‬

‫بدأت مغامرة ‪ HyT‬في المعرض الوطني في‬

‫طواقم التلفزيون والصحﻒ وجميع كبار الالعبين تسابقوا لمشاهدة هذا االبتكار‪.‬‬

‫سويسرا‪ ،‬معرض '‪ ،02‬عام ‪ .2002‬وتوزع الحدث‬ ‫في مدن ثالث يربطها ثالث بحيرات بحيرة‬

‫ﻣﺎذا ﻛﺎن رد اﻟﻔﻌﻞ ا ول ﻣﻦ ﺟﺎﻣﻌﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻠﻰ ‪ H1‬؟‬

‫نوشاتيل‪ ،‬بحيرة مورا وبحيرة بيين أي تحديدا ً‬

‫لقد دهشوا وفتنوا جدا ً بأول تقنيتنا الهيدورميكانيكية االولى في العالم‪ .‬التقينا عدد كبير‬

‫في قلب دنيا صناعة الساعات‪ .‬وكان هذا‬

‫من هواة جمع الساعات خالل أول جولة لنا حول العالم لشرﺡ كيفية عمل هذه التقنية‪.‬‬

‫المزيج من المياه المتدفقة بين البحيرات الثالث وحضور الساعات الفاخرة القوي في‬ ‫المنطقة التي أعطاه فكرة الجمع بين الماء والساعات‪ .‬أن يكون لديك فكرة جيدة شيء‪،‬‬

‫ﻣﺎ ﻛﺎن اﻟﺪاﻓﻊ ﻻﺑﺘﻜﺎر ‪ H2‬؟ وﻛﻴﻒ ﺗﺼﺮﻓﺘﻢ ﻟﻜﻲ ﺗﻜﻮن ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ ﻋﻦ ‪H1‬؟‬

‫وجعلها حقيقة واقعة شيء آخر تماماً‪ ،‬ولكن لوسيان )مهندس نووي( كان يعرف أنه‬

‫انني اعرف جيدا ً فريق عمل ‪ ، Renaud & Papi‬كوني عملت مع جيليو پاپي لدى‬

‫كان ينوي على أمر رائد‪ ،‬رغم أن اإلجابات لم تأت بسهولة‪ .‬بعد عدة سنوات من التأمل‪،‬‬

‫‪ Audemars Piguet‬في أواخر التسعينيات‪ .‬إنهم صفوة الرواد في مجال آليات‬

‫ال من شأنه توظيﻒ مستوعبين متحركين لضﺦ المياه الملونة من‬ ‫وجد لوسيان ح ً‬

‫الساعات‪ .‬اردنا تطوير ساعة ذات «مظهر قوي»‪ ،‬مستوحاة من مكبسين على شكل‬

‫خالل أنبوﺏ الزجاج المنحني الذي يمكن أن يستخدم للداللة على الوقت‪.‬في غضون ذلك‪،‬‬

‫‪) V‬مماثلة لمحرﻙ السيارة( مع احتياطي طاقة لمدة ثمانية أيام التي من شأنها أن‬

‫من جهتي‪ ،‬كنت قد فكرت في السوائل واآلليات لسنوات‪ .‬عام ‪ ،200٨‬واثناء عملي في‬

‫تمكننا من اللعب مع وظائﻒ أو تعقيدات مختلفة في المستقبل‪.‬‬

‫‪ Concord‬كرئيس تنفيذي للماركة‪ ،‬طلعنا بالفكرة األولى بخلط السوائل واآلليات‪ .‬وكان‬ ‫ذلك ‪ ، C1 Quantum Gravity‬حيث تم ملء مؤشر احتياطي الطاقة بسائل متوهج ‪،‬‬

‫إﻟﻰ أي درﺟﺔ اﻧﺘﻢ ﻗﺎدرون ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﻘﺪﻳﻢ ﻧﺴﺦ ﻣﺨﺼﺼﺔ ﻣﻦ ‪H2‬؟‬

‫يتحرﻙ صعودا ً وهبوط ًا وفق ًا لمستوى الطاقة‪ .‬وبسبب هذا التحرﻙ المبكر في عالم اآللي‪/‬‬

‫صنعنا بضع نسﺦ من ‪ H2‬من قبل عبر السوائل الثالثة المختلفة خاصتنا )األخضر‬

‫السائل‪ ،‬اتصل بي لوسيان‪.‬‬

‫واألحمر واألزرق(‪ .‬لكل سائل‪ ،‬طورنا أغلفة وتشطيبات من مواد مختلفة‪DLC :‬‬ ‫التيتانيوم األسود‪ ،‬بلونين‪ ،‬األسود ‪ DLC‬أسود والذهب الزهري‪ ،‬والتيتانيوم معالذهب‬

‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺒﺪاﻳﺔ ﻣﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ أﻛﺒﺮ ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺎت ‪HYT‬؟ ﻫﻞ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻛﻠﻬﺎ ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺔ؟‬

‫األبيﺾ‪ ،‬وأخيرا ً التيتانيوم والبالتين‪.‬‬

‫ال فﺈن تقنية‬ ‫لقد واجهنا بعﺾ التعقيدات والصعوبات عند ابتكارنا النموذج األول‪ ،‬وفع ً‬ ‫السائل جديدة بالكامل في عالم صناعة الساعات‪ ،‬لذا كان علينا أن نبدأ من الصفر‪ .‬كان‬

‫ﻫﻞ ﺗﻌﻤﻠﻮن ﻣﻊ ﺷﺮﻛﺎت ﺧﺎرج ﻋﺎﻟﻢ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻻﺑﺘﻜﺎر ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪HYT‬؟‬

‫علينا أن نطور السوائل التي تطيع مجموعة من خصائص صناعة الساعات بما فيها‬

‫نعم نقوم بذلك‪ ،‬نعمل بشكل حصري مع الشركات المتخصصة بالصناعات‬

‫اللون والتركيبة المتجانسة‪ ،‬مقاومة الذبذبات والصدمات والتبدالت في درجات الحرارة‪،‬‬

‫الفضائية‪ ،‬فالمكبسان )اللذان نطلق عليهما اسم المنفاخين( يأتيان من مورّد الناسا‬

‫وعدم التغير على المدى الطويل في مقاومة الماء‪ .‬وتتطلب هذه االحتياجات عددا ً من‬

‫في الواليات المتحدة األميركية‪ .‬وهذا مثال على ما أجده مبهج حق ًا مع ‪ ،HyT‬لقد بدأ‬

‫االبتكارات‪ .‬سجلت سبع براءات اختراع للتقنية وبراءة اختراع للتصميم‪ .‬كان ذلك غوﺹ‬

‫عهد جديد من الساعات‪.‬‬

‫حاد في المجهول‪ ،‬أوصل إلى مﺂثر تقنيات صناعة الساعات المطلة على تكنولوجيات‬ ‫النانو‪ .‬لقد طورنا منفاﺥ ثوري مصنوع من سبيكة معدن رفيع‪ ،‬ليونتهاعالية ومقاومة‪.‬‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﻫﻮ ﻣﻘﺘﻨﻲ ‪HYT‬؟‬

‫انها في الواقع مستوحاة من أجهزة االستشعار التي تستخدمها وكالة ناسا‪ ،‬وكان على‬

‫ليس هنالك نموذج واحد لشخصية مقتني ‪ ، HyT‬لكل واحد منهم شخصية فريدة‬

‫تصميمها أن يتكيﻒ ومتطلبات صناعة الساعات‪ .‬شكلها مصمم خصيص ًا ليسمح‬

‫وجنسية مختلفة‪ .‬ومع ذلك‪ ،‬عدد قليل من العناصر يقربهم‪ :‬إنهم يسافرون كثيرا‪،‬‬

‫بالحد من الطاقة الالزمة للضغط‪ ،‬والمتصاﺹ الصدمات وضمان أكيد لعدم تسرﺏ‬

‫وهم أصدقاء التكنولوجيا العالية‪ .‬وشراء ساعات ‪ HyT‬ليس أول عملية شراء‬

‫المياه‪ .‬وخالل عملية التطوير كلها كانت كميات السائل موضع اهتمام كبير‪ .‬كل‬

‫لساعات يقدمون عليها‪ ،‬فهم وبشكل عام كلهم يمتلكون مجموعة تتكون من‬

‫ميكروليتر محسوﺏ‪ ،‬والحجم الكامل في المسار المقفل دقيق جداً‪ ،‬بما أن النظام‬

‫خمسة أو أكثر من الساعات‪ .‬شيء واحد مؤكد‪ :‬أنهم جميعهم يبحثون عن ساعات‬

‫يجب ان يكون فيه معدل نانوتكنولوجي هام من مقاومة الماء‪ .‬ونظرا ً لالرتباﻁ غير‬

‫رائدة في تكنولوجياتها‪.‬‬

‫العادي بين التاج والسائل‪ ،‬فقد تم تصميم نظام تحديد وقت خاﺹ من أجل تجنب أن‬ ‫يتحرﻙ السائل بسرعة كبيرة والحاق الضرر بالعدسة المقعرة المحدبة‪.‬‬

‫ﻫﻞ ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻚ أن ﺗﻌﻄﻴﻨﺎ أي ﻋﺮض ﻣﺴﺒﻖ ﻣﻦ ﻣﻮدﻳﻼت ﻋﺎم ‪ ٢٠١٥‬؟‬ ‫سوف نكشﻒ عن ‪ H3‬في بازل ورلد في مارس ‪ .201٥‬وستكون ذات نظام ساعات خطي‪-‬‬

‫ﻫﻞ ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻚ ﺗﺬﻛﺮ ﻟﺤﻈﺔ اﺧﺘﺮاق ﻻﻓﺘﺔ‪ ،‬ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻋﻤﻠﺖ اﻟﻔﻜﺮة واﻟﺘﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴﺎ ﻣﻌ ًﺎ‬

‫سريع في ساعة غير مستديرة ‪ ...‬أما بالنسبة للبقية‪ ،‬سيكون عليك االنتظار قليال‪ .‬يتم‬

‫ ول ﻣﺮة؟‬

‫تطوير ‪ H3‬في شراكة مع ‪ Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi‬ويشرف عليها‬

‫وكان ذلك في معرض بازل ورلد عام ‪ ،2012‬عندما أدركنا أنا وشركائي االهتمام المذهل‬

‫جيليو پاپي )كما هي الحال مع ‪.(H2‬‬

‫‪46‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEbRuARy - MARCH 2015‬‬

‫توفير الطاقة‬ ‫تتميّز ساعة ‪ elegante‬بوزن نطاط ميكانيكي يقوم مقام جهاز استشعار حركة‪،‬‬ ‫وهو مثبت على المينا بين الرقمين ‪ 4‬و‪5‬؛ عندما ال تكون الساعة قيد االستخدام أو‬ ‫حالة توقف‪ ،‬يتوقف الجهاز لنحو ثالثين دقيقة‪ .‬بالمقابل‪ ،‬يستم ّر المعالج الصغري‬

‫تتميّز النسخة المصنوعة من الذهب األحمر بمينا اسود وسوار من اللون البني‪.‬‬

‫بضبط الوقت ولكن اآللية والدوارات والعقارب تتوقف عن الحركة لحفظ الطاقة‪.‬‬ ‫وعندما توضع الساعة مجددا ً على المعصم‪ ،‬تعيد ضبط آليتها تلقائي ًا لتشير إلى الوقت‬ ‫الصحيح‪ .‬ومرة جديدةً ‪ ،‬في محاولة المعة لتوفير الطاقة‪ ،‬تتح ّرك عقارب الساعة في‬ ‫االتجاه األقصر وصو ًال إلى موقعها الذي يشير إلى الوقت الصحيح‪ ،‬بنفس اتجاه عقارب‬ ‫الساعة أو عكسه‪ .‬إن جميع العناصر الميكانيكية في آلية ‪ elegante‬رقم ‪ 1210‬التي‬ ‫تتضمن محرك ًا بدوارين ومعدل تواتر كوراتز بنسبة ‪ 32‬ألف هرتز‪ ،‬تصنع جميعها في‬ ‫مصنع أف بي جورن في جنيف‪ ،‬فيما يطوّ ر مهندس سويسري العناصر الكهربائية في‬ ‫تم صنعه حصري ًا لهذه‬ ‫سويسرا‪ .‬وال بد من اإلشارة إلى أن المعالج الصغري الخاص ّ‬ ‫تم تصميم غالف الساعة المريح بحيث يبلغ مقاسه ‪ 34.0‬ملم‬ ‫الساعة‪ .‬بالمقابل‪ّ ،‬‬

‫‪x‬‬

‫‪ 35.0‬ملم‪ ،‬ويحاكي غالف ‪ Tortue‬الشهير من كارتييه‪ ،‬ومتوافر من البالتين أو الذهب‬ ‫وكل من هذه النسخ متوافرة مع إمكانية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األحمر (مع مينا سوداء) والتيتانيوم‪،‬‬ ‫كل من الغالف والمينا بأحجار الماس‪ .‬تستحق المينا في هذه الساعة نجمةً‬ ‫ترصيع ّ‬ ‫ذهبية لقاء األرقام العربية الكبيرة وسهلة القراءة التي تجملها‪ ،‬فيما يأتي عقرب‬ ‫الثواني الصغير عند موضع الرقم ‪ .6‬تأتي هذه الساعة مرفقةً بسوار مطاطي متوافرة‬ ‫بعدة ألوان تتماشى مع نوع المعدن المستخدم في الساعة‪ :‬فالغالف البالتيني مرفق‬

‫تتضمن الساعة جهازا ً ميكانيكي ًا الستشعار الحركة وهو مثبت بين الرقمين ‪ 4‬و ‪.5‬‬

‫بسوار باللون األزرق الداكن‪ ،‬فيما النسخة المصنوعة من الذهب األحمر تأتي مرفقة‬ ‫بسوار من اللون البني؛ أما في النسخة المصنوعة من التيتانيوم‪ ،‬فيمكن االختيار بين‬ ‫سبعة ألوان مختلفة للسوار‪ :‬األبيض‪ ،‬الزهري‪ ،‬األزرق الداكن‪ ،‬البني‪ ،‬األزرق الفاتح‪ ،‬األحمر‪،‬‬ ‫واألخضر الداكن‪ ،‬كما تتميّز الساعة بمينا مضيئة‪ .‬تتميّز ساعة ‪ elegante‬بكون‬ ‫الجهة الخلفية من غالفها مصنوعة من بلورة صفير شفافة تسمح برؤية اآللية؛ وفي‬ ‫تحية واضحة للجمهور النسائي الخاص بهذه الساعة‪ ،‬يمكن رؤية قلب في موقع‬ ‫المعالج الصغير – قلب الساعة – بحسب السيد جورن‪ .‬ولقد حفر على الجهة الخلفية‬ ‫من الغالف ما يلي‪F. P. Journe, Ivenit et Fecit, élégante, calibre 1210, :‬‬ ‫‪ .Geneva Made, 18 Jewels‬كذلك‪ ،‬ورد على الغالف أن النظام المستخدم في‬ ‫هذه الساعة هو حصري وحازت الشركة براءة اختراعه‪ .‬ومع أن ساعة ‪ elegante‬هي‬ ‫تقني ًا ساعة كوارتز سهلة االستخدام مخصصة للسيدات اللواتي ال يرغبن في تعبئة‬ ‫آلية ساعاتهن‪ ،‬إال أنها استخدمت التكنولوجيا بطريقة مبتكرة باإلضافة إلى استفادتها‬ ‫من اسم الشركة الالمع‪ ،‬عنصران كافيان للفت أنظاري‪ .‬أما جمال الساعة ودقتها‬ ‫ومحافظتها على البيئة‪ ،‬فقد أضافت إلى جمالها ومكانتها المرموقة‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪ Elegante‬من أف بي‬ ‫جورن الخاصة بالسيدات‪.‬‬ ‫‪February - March 2015 INTerNaTIONaL WaTch‬‬

‫‪49‬‬

‫‪FINESSE‬‬ ‫رقــة‬

‫تسمح الجهة الخلفية من الغالف المصنوعة من بلورة صفير برؤية اآللية وقلب اآللية في مكان المعالج الصغري‪.‬‬

‫أﻧـﺎﻗــﺔ وذﻛﺎء‬

‫‪ Elegante‬أول إبتكار للسيدات من ‪ F.P. Journe‬صانع الساعات‬ ‫الشهير بجرأة تحدياته وإبداعاته العريقة‬ ‫من نانسي أولسون‬

‫المتحمسين‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫رحّ بت أف بي جورن ‪ F.P. Journe‬بمجموعة من الصحافيين والمعجبين‬

‫بمتطلبات الصناعة العصرية‪ ،‬وقدرته الغريزية بالدمج بين االثنين‪ .‬وبالتالي‪ ،‬تمكن‬

‫في صالة العرﺽ داخل مقر الشركة في جنيف‪ ،‬إلطالق ساعاتها األولى الخاصة‬

‫جورن من ابتكار ساعة تعتبر األولى من نوعها بالنسبة إلى الماركة السويسرية‬

‫بالسيدات بشكل حصري‪ .‬ولقد زاد من حماس عملية اإلطالق هذه‪ ،‬حضور مﺆسس‬

‫ولعالم صناعة الساعات بشكل عام‪ .‬ولقد استغرق تطوير وتنفيذ آلية ساعة‬

‫ومصمم الساعات ونجمها فرانسوا بول جورن الذي كان محاضرا ً ومستعدا ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشركة‬

‫‪ elegante‬الكهربائية الميكانيكية ثمانية أعوام من األبحاﺙ المستمرة‪ .‬واستنادا ً‬

‫ليحكي عن أصل الساعة ويجيب عن أي سﺆال‪.‬‬

‫إلى الشركة‪ ،‬يمكن وضع هذه الساعة لمدة عشرة أعوام على التوالي‪ ،‬ويمكن أن تبقى‬

‫يشتهر السيد جورن بمعرفته بفن صناعة الساعات الكالسيكي‪ ،‬وكذلك بدرايته‬

‫في حالة ركود لمدة ‪ 1٨‬عاماً‪ .‬حالة ركود؟‬

‫‪48‬‬

‫‪INTerNaTIONaL WaTch February - March 2015‬‬

Exclusive Jewellery Manufacturer unique personalized treasures

Visit us at: BASELWORLD 2015 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HALL 2.1 BOOTH C21 VICENZAORO DUBAI 2015 For inquiries: contact@frieden.ch www.frieden.ch

‫‪FINESSE‬‬ ‫رقــة‬

‫ﺑﺎﻟﻮن دو ﻛﺎرﺗﻴﻴﻪ‬

‫ساعة من عالم آخر‪ ،‬تتألق بانحناءات جميلة بجمال الوعد القادم‪ .‬إنها ساعة بالون دو كارتييه‪.‬‬ ‫يتجسد فيها أسلوب دار كارتييه‪ ،‬تنبثق من مزيج يختلط فيه المستقبل بالماضي‪ ...‬ومنذ أن‬ ‫انطلقت في عالم اإلبهار‪ ،‬تتابع الساعة رحلتها الخالبة في فضاءات النجاﺡ‪.‬‬

‫متشابهة إلى حد ما‪ ،‬ومختلفة كذلك إلى حد ما‪ .‬ساعة بالون بالن دو كارتييه هي شهاب حلق في ورﺵ كارتييه ذات ليلة عندما كان القمر مكتمالً‪ ،‬وﻇهر مرة أخرﻯ في‬ ‫ساعة من مجموعة بالون دو كارتييه‪ .‬ساعة تدمج اسرار دار كارتييه في صناعة الساعات والمجوهرات‪ ،‬تبرز بكل ألق وتعبر عن نفسها كساعة مرصعة بالمجوهرات‪.‬‬ ‫ساعة ثمينة‪ ،‬أنثوية‪ ،‬رقيقة‪ ،‬وال تتوانى عن المشاغبة عندما يكون الوقت مناسباً‪ .‬خفيفة الوزن والظل‪ ،‬ساعة غيرت مفاهيم التصميم ورسمت لنفسها وجه ًا جديداً‪،‬‬ ‫كما يعتمد المرء إطاللة جديدة لمظهره‪ .‬تحتفظ الساعة بشكلها الساحر‪ ،‬الشبيه بعلبة بودرة ثمينة‪ .‬ومع المينا المزخرفة بأسلوب »فلينكيه« المصنوعة من‬ ‫عرق اللﺆلﺆ والعقارب التي تتخذ شكل سيوف زرقاء اللون‪ ،‬تنفرد ساعة بالون دو كارتييه هذه بأسلوب مميز‪ .‬ومع ذلك‪ ،‬فﺈن التحول البسيط في األرقام الرومانية ودائرة‬ ‫الدقائق الشبيهة بالسكة الحديدية عند مﺆشر الساعة الرابعة هي تفاصيل تتيح المجال لوضع ماسة وحيدة تومض بكل روعة‪ .‬أما السوار‪ ،‬المﺆلف من خمسة صفوف‬ ‫من الحبيبات الناعمة أو المرصعة بالماس‪ ،‬فهو يشابه نهرا ً من األحالم‪ .‬ومثل كوكبة من النجوم الالمعة‪ ،‬تبهر ماسات الساعة العين بكل بهاء وتألق‪.‬‬

‫‪50‬‬

‫‪INTerNaTIONaL WaTch February - March 2015‬‬

FINESSE FINESSE

TIME FOR HER

EARNING their

wings BY NANCY OLSON

Breitling watches are working for women

Colt Lady

hen one thinks of Breitling watches, its ties to aviation and the technology it employs immediately come to mind, no doubt reinforced in our minds by the company’s famed winged logo. But look a little closer, ladies, and discover Breitling’s watches for women among its mostly masculine designs, as well as a few whose size and style make them the perfect fit for both genders. Here’s a smattering of what’s out there just for you. Colt Lady The Colt collection was born in the 1980s and quickly garnered fans who appreciated its sturdiness, reliability and readability. A more recent redesign left the collection with all the essential elements that gave it its verve, while updating the overall look. The watch has a unidirectional rotating bezel with a satin-brushed finish and engraved hour markers. The polished steel case is water resistant to 200 meters and is equipped with a large screw-locked and protected crown. Among those new models introduced is the Colt Lady, designed specifically for women seeking sportiness and elegance—as well as performance. Smaller than its male-oriented counterparts, the Colt Lady has a 33mm steel case, whose polished middle offers an interesting contrast to the satin-brushed finish of the bezel (with or without dia-

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Breitling’s Limited Edition Transocean, from the front.

Transocean 38 Chrono

Breitling’s Limited Edition Transocean, from the back

“

THE TRANSOCEAN 38 FITS A WOMAN’S WRIST PRECISELY AND STYLISHLY.”

monds) and bracelet. The dial is available in black, blue or silver, each punctuated by luminescent elements. The date is at 3 o’clock, powered by Breitling’s own SuperQuartz movement for greater accuracy. The Colt Lady comes on a Sahara leather strap, or on Breitling’s Diver Pro Strap or Professional bracelet.

Transocean 38 Several decades ago, in 1958 to be exact, Breitling introduced the Transocean collection, whose anti-shock, anti-magnetic and water resistant characteristics made it the perfect accomplice for people taking advantage of the rise in air travel that was happening concurrently. An ad at that time said, “Men who have faith in the mighty liners of the sky...will trust the Transocean. For behind every Breitling wristwatch lies the experience of aviation precision.” So many years later, the Transocean retains its spirit, and the Transocean 38 (at 38mm) fits a woman’s wrist precisely and stylishly. The steel case has a slim beveled bezel and slender lugs, and the dial has applied hour markers and the gold “B” initial that is Breitling’s logo from the past. The date is revealed through a twin aperture at 12 o’clock, and small seconds are at 6 o’clock. Interestingly, the caseback features the historical Breitling symbol with embossed planes, and inside is a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. Dial options include black or silver, as well as mother-of-pearl (with or without diamonds) for another boost of femininity. So, too, the bezel, which comes with or without gems. A steel mesh or perforated bracelet (Ocean Classic or Air Racer), as well as a leather strap, are available to secure the watch to the wrist. A chronograph version of the Transocean 38 is a nice addition to the collection, with either a steel, steel and gold, or red gold case (with or without diamonds). The dial comes in black, silver or midnight blue, and the strap is in Barenia or crocodile leather in a choice of shades; a steel bracelet is also on hand. Inside is a COSC-certified self-winding movement. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

FINESSE FINESSE

CHAUMETfrom

HIGH JEWELLERY sentimental jewellery to

rom within the restrained architecture of a Japanese garden, trimmed in its lush, verdant embroidery, Chaumet plucks a flower: the hydrangea. The jeweller finds lavish inspiration in its endless varieties, with round or tapered petals joyfully forming a delicate cluster or a perfect sphere, frolicking with colour and blooming in an astonishing geometric spectrum, now echoed in the world of couture. Here is jewellerymaking excellence expressed with the same floral grammar: from corolla to pistil, Chaumet explores all the flower’s intricacies, playing upon ten petal variations. Nature has been tamed: stylised, openworked, sculpted, capturing motion at once taut and supreme delicate. The hydrangea as seen by Chaumet aligns with the House’s naturalistic style to become a collection of sentimental jewels. Hortensia - Fine Jewellery Born of the excellence of Chaumet High Jewellery, six new powder-pink designs express blossoming emotion. Like a thread of diamonds, the flower’s stem is traced into a tiara and a necklace, the curve of a bracelet, ring or earrings. Suspended from this pattern, sculpted opal cabochons, pink tourmalines and sapphires blossom in asymmetrical bouquets that hide an impeccably assembled composition. Behind these floral clusters lies a subtle setting strategy – including a champagne setting creating a veritable pavé of precious bubbles – of solid or openwork petals and surprising variations of matte and polished gold.

The Hortensia Fine Jewellery collection

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Hortensia - Jewels A celebration of three shades of gold, the hydrangea blossoms in eighteen delicate designs. A collection of juxtapositions: solid and openwork petals, matte and polished gold. As a ring, the hydrangea becomes a floral wreath enlacing the finger, with randomly aligned petals making each ring a unique bouquet. As a pendant, it resembles a round hydrangea cluster: a perfect sphere composed of flowers. Lastly, a special-occasion ring and pendant, in white or rose gold set with diamonds, become luminous lace in a joyful geometry of solid and openwork flowers.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

FINESSE FINESSE

Emperatriz Collection by Carrera y Carrera

ONCE UPON

TIME

Emperatriz Co llect ion

for embroidering. This woman was the captain’s lover and an aristocrat who, along with the young embroiderer, protected the mystery. Carrera y Carrera now reveals this legend through its new collection, Seda Imperial. Discover all its secrets. Seda Imperial Over time, that shawl that Liu-Tsu threw in the ocean became what is now known as the Manila shawl, considered an adaptation between immemorial Chinese tradition and a Spanish emblem thanks to the fusion of Eastern and Western cultures. The Manila shawl, originally from China, is a purely handmade, hand-embroidered garment crafted in natural silk with skill and dexterity. The creation of a shawl requires the expert hands of an embroiderer that dedicates months of work to create a garment and adornment of incalculable value. Carrera y Carrera jewels are created in a similar fashion through meticulous work by master goldsmiths. The collection includes the most characteristic elements of the Manila shawl. “To wrap oneself in it is like dressing with a painting.” Benito Pérez Galdós, Fortunata y Jacinta.

n Eastern legend has it that 46 centuries ago, there was a Chinese princess named Liu-Tsu who, at the age of 14, was forced to marry a barbaric Khan against her will for political reasons. As revenge, Liu-Tsu hid in her shawl the best-guarded mystery of the Far East, unknown until that time – the secret of Imperial Silk embroidery – and she threw it into the depths of the ocean. Centuries later, the captain of the Nao San Felipe plied the 7 seas, from Manila to Acapulco and from there to Seville, fighting adversaries from every continent. One day when the seas were calm, he glimpsed something in the water. The shawl appeared in the hands of the captain, who guarded it as if it were treasure. That same night, a storm broke. People say that one April afternoon, the ship appeared by itself in the port of Seville; nothing was known of its captain or crew. A woman found the shawl and gave it to a young embroiderer

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Emperatriz: Seduction, femininity, and generous volumes This collection is inspired by the floral patterns of the Manila shawl. In Spain, they were the most valuable. Colorful gardens of varied flowers encompassing different meanings: among others, the rose was secret, the lily denoted purity, the thistle and the lotus were reminiscent of China, the cherry blossom signified heroism and bravery, and the peony symbolized the empress. The jewels are presented as flowers with petals of varying sizes that provide realism as well as volume to the pieces. The transparency of the precious stones reveals the painstaking work of the interior of the piece, creating a magnifying glass effect that allows each detail to be enlarged and appreciated in an extraordinary fashion. Asymmetrical pieces where different proportions are visible and give the pieces a sense of movement with very pure parts and more richly adorned parts through which the whole framework may be appreciated, creating an astonishing set of contrasts.

Orquideas Collection

Garzas Collection

tio

pe sC ol l

Garzas: Eternity and passion The royal heron is the true star of this collection. A symbol of grace, this bird was a common decorative element in Manila shawls, adapting to the iconography liked by the women of the period. Embroidered with care with a historic beauty where craftsmanship and luxury were latent. Announcing the arrival of Spring, the heron symbolizes a change of life and is a talisman to attract happiness and prosperity. According to the ancient art of Feng Shui, the image of a heron is used to ward off negative energy. In Chinese culture, it is considered one of the most important birds, one that preserves its secrets, traditions, and customs. The jewels present a pair of love-struck herons linked together in an embrace, wrapped around a prasiolite as if it were a pond and wanting to remain like that for the rest of their days. Pieces full of great symbolism that emulate the contours of the shawl. Featuring openwork, lightweight, asymmetric, and crafted in great detail, the herons seem to dance in the pond. Jewels that allow one to fly to a world full of secrets and hidden passions.

of this collection that forms part of the Seda Imperial Fine Jewelry line. A love song rises from the orchid, conveying a message of seduction, sinuousness, and supreme beauty from the person who gifts it, as if it were poetry. In the early 19th century, the aristocracy distinguished itself from the bourgeoisie by its particular preference for this flower as a symbol of higher social status. The jewels are presented as if they were bouquets, with great volume, and sculpted with exquisite delicacy by the Carrera y Carrera master goldsmiths. Each piece is an orchid itself. Priceless craftsmanship in gold where the mini-sculpture is the star of each piece created in yellow gold, diamonds, and ruby cabochons.

Sie r

Sierpes: Fascinating pieces full of detail and movement The name of this collection is inspired by one of the most iconic streets in Seville, Sierpes Street. Located in the center of the Andalusian capital, Sierpes Street partly takes its name from its sinuous shape that mimics the movement of the Manila shawlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fringe, the star of this collection. The pieces present lattices that imitate the openwork of shawls, simulating threads of silk that entangle to create embroidered frames. The painstaking work of the fringe is reflected in the meticulous craftsmanship of the jewels created by hand, detail by detail. Sierpes offers the different stages of the shawl: a more figurative stage where the principal motif is a flower; a more geometric stage with a relief featuring lattices, and finally, more theatrical pieces featuring links with great movement, as if they were swaying fringe.

OrquĂdeas: Stunning jewels of extraordinary beauty The Orchid represents one of the most popular floral motifs in Manila shawls. A symbol of nature and elegance, this flower is the main theme INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

FINESSE FINESSE

ULYSSE NARDIN

grace

with

The Lady Diver

substance

picture of elegance in sport, appearing exquisite in any situation the Lady Diver leaves nothing to be desired. A fine jewelry watch and reliable diving instrument, the Lady Diver is self-winding with the UN-815 caliber steering the hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the date at the 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock position. She has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant to 100 meters. The Lady Diver is is offered in 18-karat gold and accompanied by a durable rubber strap ideal for endless activity. Inspired by all things marine, Ulysse Nardinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s journey in haute horology began on the sea. Decade after decade, the manufacturer shares its passion for the ocean through its timepieces, and the iconic Lady Diver is no exception, boasting a nautical past paired with modern femininity.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

e d a J

The Ulysse Nardin Manufacture Caliber created essentially for ladies. Jade is the flagship timepiece in the Ulysse Nardin collection for ladies and marks a first in Ulysse Nardin history. Never before has Ulysse Nardin designed and produced an in-house movement exclusively for a ladies collection, demonstrating the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s commitment to its female clientele. Unique in its concept, it is designed and built in such a way that it does not call for pushing or pulling of the crown to set the date and time, meaning no more damage to the ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; manicure. Chai Schnyder requested such a movement from her late husband Rolf Schnyder (then President and CEO of Ulysse Nardin) 12 years ago. Chai Schnyder feels that ladies would cheer such a development, as manicures take a long time to be properly done, and it is an annoyance if even a small part of the beautiful set of a manicure is chipped or broken while trying to pull out the crown. With Caliber UN-310, there is a pusher at the four oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock position on the watch case which is designed to change the function of the crown: winding (Position 1); setting the date forwards and backwards

(Position 2); and setting the time (Position 3). Each manipulation is then simply made by turning the crown forwards or backwards without any need to pull it out. There is also no more fiddling to get to the right position for adjusting the date or time. Stunningly simple but superbly practical, Jade reflects a timeless elegance. The 18ct rose gold case is adorned with four ceramic horns and a magnificent ring of diamonds in the subtly and supremely fineness snowsetting. The white mother-ofpearl dial with diamonds, further enhances the exquisite style of the timepiece. Drawing on the inventive spirit of Ulysse Nardin, silicium technology is used in the development of the base caliber, escapement wheels and Swiss anchor. A technologically advanced material, silicium was first brought to the forefront of haute horology by Ulysse Nardin with the unveiling of the revolutionary Freak. Unlike conventional materials, Silicium is not affected by close proximity to magnetism which is widespread these days such as when the watch is placed close to mobile phones, making it a modern-day necessity. This collection forges the Ulysse Nardin guideline and confirms the brand affinity for delicate and sensual creations. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

FINESSE FINESSE

IMPERIALE

SOVEREIGN ELEGANCE Majesty, refinement and beautifully balanced proportions: the Imperiale watch truly is one of the great Chopard classics.

Imp

eria

le 3

ade

Impériale Green Dial

orn in the 1990’s and entirely redesigned in 2010, the Imperiale watch charms with the perfection of its proportions and the subtleness of its details. Drawn from historical sources, and reminiscent of the grandeur of the Roman Empire, the Imperiale Collection has been reinvented according to contemporary elegance. A watch of royal elegance The serene strength of its details distils a wealth of details that are all nods to the heyday of the imperial age. These include the Roman numerals punctuating the dial and marking off the hours. Their elegant frames surrounds a center subtly reminiscent of a painting by great master, graced with motifs calling to mind the embroidered cushions that used to bear the royal insignia. This refined canvas is swept over by exquisitely curved hands evoking the sharp daggers used by sovereigns in combat. A crown delicately curved like a lotus flower and set with an amethyst cabochon is fitted to a case middle with pure, sleek sides designed to give the model a lighter and more luminous glow. The shape of the lugs echoes the tradition of ancient columns that are famed for their Imperiale latest collection perfectly balanced proportions, while the gold models are enhanced by an ultimate touch of refinement in the shape of amethyst cabochons set on the lugs. With the new dial in green colour, the sheer wealth and finesse of its details make the Imperiale collection an eminently feminine model,

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

and its timeless chic revives the spirit and the splendour of imperial classicism. This collection is a subtle alliance between simplicity and majesty, sophistication and sensuality. Imperiale 36mm Jade On the occasion of Chinese New Year, the Imperiale watch, a Chopard classic, appears adorned with jade, an exceptional stone symbolising virtue and purity. This new model sees the appearance of jade, the ultimate symbol of imperial dynasties. By definition extremely fragile and complex to work with, a vividly coloured jade of exceptional quality enhances the dial with its gleaming radiance. Glow and soft pastel colours This new version of the Imperiale watch is being launched in three of Chopard’s favourite colours: timeless white, as well as two subtle pastels. Lavender blue and powder pink are two rich, delicately patinated colours that also bear the mark of History and elegance, while infusing the timeless lines of the Imperiale watch with a new touch of sensuality. Crafted in rose gold for versions with a pink and white mother-of-pearl dial, and white gold for the blue version, the Imperiale watch also comes with a range of satin straps matching the dial colours. The bezel, lugs and hour-markers are set with brilliant-cut diamonds, resulting in a model whose elegance is rooted in History and entirely in tune with modern times.

FINESSE FINESSE

The Haute Joaillerie Collection

The Happy Sport Medium Automatic

Happy Curves Collection

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Haute Joaillerie: Atelier of dreams Two new one-of-a-kind creations – a necklace and a bracelet – showcase the exceptional expertise of the Geneva-based Manufacture. What would Christmas be without a special breath of magic? Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie workshop brings dreams to life with style and mastery. These spectacular one-of-a-kind creations are designed, developed and produced in the very heart of the Geneva-based company. For some 15 years, true to its tradition of excellence, Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie collections have experienced strong development – an impetus enabled by regrouping the various skills required for such complex constructions under the same roof. Artisans thus combine their talents and skills to give rise to veritable works of art, in which traditional techniques rub shoulders with state-of-the-art technology. For Christmas last December, two beautiful pieces have been created. An 18-carat white gold necklace of which the supple section, entirely composed of pear-cut diamonds, continues its sparkling trajectory by flowing into a splendid motif – a delicate play of openwork curlicues, revealing the beauty of exceptional gems: pear and brilliant cut diamonds (totalling 27cts). This free-spirited play on shapes is reflected by a beautiful bracelet, forming superb arabesques and also composed of pear and brilliant-cut diamonds (totalling 36cts). Two models brilliantly reaffirming Chopard’s unique style and remarkable expertise. Happy Curves - Happy Diamonds Chopard’s iconic collection now appears in a softly sensual version. Join the revisited dance of the Happy Diamonds! The light, playful and glittering dance of the famous “Happy Diamonds” has found a new setting in which to twirl its sparkling enchantment, with a whole new style vocabulary and new lines making a grand entrance to this legendary line. The sapphire crystals between which the diamonds twirl are also cambered, endowing the precious stones with a magnifying glass type effect. These enchanting volumes radiate a generous sensuality through their full, soft curves. The Happy Curves collection comprises a complete range of jewellery including rings (pictured), bracelets and stud earrings, as well as a new element in the Happy Diamonds collection in the form of necklaces. Available in polished or gem-set 18-carat white or rose gold, they contribute to writing a new chapter of the fascinating Happy Diamonds legend.

Exclusive Jewellery Manufacturer unique personalized treasures

Visit us at: BASELWORLD 2015 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HALL 2.1 BOOTH C21 VICENZAORO DUBAI 2015 For inquiries: contact@frieden.ch www.frieden.ch

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

c el e

s ti a watches BY RACHEL GOLD

Prehistoric man came up with simple timetelling methods by observing the sun, moon and stars, as well as the change of seasons. It is no wonder, then, that modern man continues to be enthralled by gazing at celestial bodies--whether they are found in the heavens or on the wrist. The watches on the following pages will undoubtedly inspire you to do a little stargazing of your own. 65

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

A. LANgE & sÖHNE

RICHARd LANgE PERPETUAL CALENdAR “TERRALUNA” This 14-day power reserve perpetual calendar has as much happening on the front dial as on the reverse. On the dial side of the 45.5mm pink or white gold watch is a regulator layout with a prominent and blued minute hand, seconds hand and hour hand. Also visible: leap-year display, month, day of the week and date indication. All displays of the calendar switch forward instantaneously. The reverse side presents an innovative, useful and stunningly decorated orbital moon-phase display that depicts the constellation of the earth, moon and sun. The patentpending orbital moon-phase display shows the location of the moon relative to the earth and the sun – for the first time ever in a wristwatch.

ARMANd NICOLET

M02

Part of the newly introduced and re-styled M02 collection, this moonphase timepiece is lighter weight than the original release and offers improved shock resistance. A mechanical automatic movement with complete calendar functions powers the timepiece and the dial is silvered guilloché with applied indexes and Arabic numerals.

ARNOLd & sON

Part of the Royal Collection, this timepiece features one of the biggest moonphase apertures on the market. The moon disc is featured in blue guilloché with an engraved moon, while the dial is cream colored. An Arnold & son hand-wound movement, the calibre A&s1512, powers the piece. The watch offers a 90-hour power reserve and its red gold case measures 42mm.

BALL WATCH

ENgINEER II OHIO MOONPHAsE

This timepiece is powered by the automatic Ball caliber 968 and functions include: moonphase display, hours, minutes, seconds and day. The watch is shown in a 40mm stainless steel case with an anti-reﬂective sapphire crystal. It is available with a silver, black or blue dial on a calf strap.

HM PERPETUAL MOON

BAUME & MERCIER

LINEA “NIgHT”

This 32mm timepiece is a limited edition featuring the moon glowing in a starry sky. In satin-finished polished steel, it’s the perfect ladies watch for an evening of stargazing. The dial is midnight blue mother-of-pearl with stars and hand-riveted indexes, 83 diamonds, satin midnight blue bracelet or interchangeable polished steel bracelet. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

BLANCPAIN

CALENdRIER CHINOIs TRAdITIONNEL

The first wristwatch equipped with a traditional Chinese calendar, its 45mm platinum case is fitted with a crown adorned with a cabochoncut ruby and comprises five integrated under-lug correctors serving to adjust the indications. The dial features hours, minutes and the gregorian calendar, as well as Chinese calendar indications.

BOVET

Featuring the same precision phase of the moon and characteristic hands of the 2013 Récital 9 Tourbillon, the Récital 11 differs in that the hour and minute hands are offset at 6 o’clock, forming a heart every hour. The precision moon phase module was entirely developed and manufactured by artisans of dIMIER 1738.

BREgUET

REINE dE NAPLEs dAY/NIgHT IN HIgH JEWELRY

The bezel and case band on this gold timepiece are set with 131 baguette diamonds, while the dial and the ball attachment are finely decorated in a frosting of diamonds. A feminine briolette diamond tops the crown. This watch is fitted with a mechanical movement specifically made for the Reine de Naples collection.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

RéCITAL 11 “MIss ALEXANdRA”

BVLgARI

dIAgONO MOONPHAsE

This 42mm timepiece is featured in pink gold. The dial is black and the piece is presented on a brown alligator strap. The timepiece is powered by an in-house automatic movement featuring a moonphase and is water resistant to fifty meters.

Winner of the Grand Prix de Horlogerie de GenĂ¨ve. Best Tourbillon of 2014 www.gronefeld.com

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

CABEsTAN

MOON PHAsE

A combination of vertical capstan wheels, chain and fusee, and a three-dimensional moon phase define this piece. Caliber CAB EC 102L powers the timepiece indicating the hours, minutes, seconds, and power reserve by drums. The time is semi-jumping and a sphere measuring 7.4mm in diameter represents the moon phase.

CARL F. BUCHERER

The perpetual calendar, which shows the date, day of the week, month and moon phase without requiring correction, is the focal point of this 100-piece limited edition watch. The rose gold case measures 42.5mm, the dial is silver-colored and the timepiece is presented on a hand-stitched Louisiana alligator brown leather strap.

CARTIER

ROTONdE dE CARTIER EARTH ANd MOON

This 47mm platinum timepiece features a tourbillon that has been incorporated into a moon phase complication, with each one dependent on the other. The watch owes its name to the stylized portrayal of the globe and the moon represented by the tourbillon. Together, they form a creative and animated world.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

MANERO CHRONO PERPETUAL LIMITEd EdITION

CHANEL

J12 MOONPHAsE BLACk

This timepiece is presented in high-tech ceramic with a black satin finish and a dial that features an aventurine counter. A self-winding mechanical movement propels this watch with functions including: hours, minutes, seconds, date and moon phase. The piece is water resistant to 100 meters.

CHOPARd

L.U.C LUNAR BIg dATE

This white gold timepiece boasts a moon phase accurate to one day every 122 years. A L.U.C 96.20L mechanical self-winding movement powers the piece and the dial is silver-toned sunburst with a satinbrushed finish. The case measures 42mm.

CHRIsTOPHE CLARET

This complicated model features a tourbillon, instantaneous-jump perpetual calendar, moon phase and equation of time indicator. The timepiece is named after the Ponte di Rialto, the oldest and most famous of the four bridges arching of the grand Canal in Venice, Italy.

CITIZEN

CELEsTIAL

This 35mm timepiece takes its inspiration from the skies with the simplistic style pairing of an elegant sweeping eight-diamond motif on the white dial and a three-linked gold-tone stainless steel case and bracelet. The watch features a chronograph measuring up to 60 minutes, 12/24hour time, date and sapphire crystal.

RIALTO

CUERVO Y sOBRINOs

ROBUsTO PERPETUAL MOONPHAsE

Limited to ten pieces, this rose gold 43mm watch is a perpetual calendar with a moon phase on a dial with mother-of-pearl counters. Functions include: hours, minutes and seconds, perpetual date, day of the week, month, leap year and moon phase. The dial is velvet white/ blue with skeleton hands. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

dEBETHUNE

dB28 dIgITAL

Equipped with a mechanism powering multiple display modes, digital for the jumping hours and analog for the minutes, and spherical for the moon phases, this watch features a highly contemporary aesthetic. The dial is adorned with a hand-guillochĂŠ barleycorn motif as well as a spherical moon and star-studded sky.

dEWITT

Earthly and heavenly elements intertwine as seen within the original dial architecture displayed on this timepiece. The round 43mm titanium case is decorated with imperial columns. The left side of the dial is reminiscent of an atlas. The moon phase module is positioned in the lower part of the dial, developed entirely in house.

dIOR

CHIFFRE ROUgE C03

This is a limited series of 100 38mm watches, each powered by an automatic Elite 691 caliber by Zenith. The case is brushed steel and the dial is mother-of-pearl featuring a small-scale moon-phase indicator and red date display. The timepiece is presented on a perforated calfskin strap.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

TWENTY-8-EIgHT FULL MOON

dUBEY & sCHALdENBRANd

gRANd dOME dT

This tonneau case houses a self-winding Valjoux 7751 chronograph with date, day, month, moon phases and chronograph. The hands are skeletonized with superLuminova coating and the case is steel. The watch features a power reserve of 48 hours and is presented on a black alligator strap.

ERNsT BENZ

CHRONOLUNAR dLC

This 47mm timepiece is featured in black dLC brushed stainless steel with a black dial that highlights green luminous numerals. An automatic Valjoux 7751 movement powers the timepiece and functions include: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, day, date, month, 24-hour display and phases of the moon, as well as a chronograph.

F.P. JOURNE

This 38mm red gold timepiece boasts unidirectional automatic winding, an instantaneous date change, and date setting by the crown in position two and time setting by the crown in position three. The dial highlights the date, power-reserve indicator and moon phase.

FRANC VILA

FVA9 “WHITE BANdIdO” CHRONOgRAPH MAsTER QUANTIÈME AUTOMATIQUE

Caliber FV9 is at the heart of this timepiece. Functions include: hours, minutes and seconds, chronograph, date, day of the week and month, and moon phase. The dial is white carbon ﬁber and guilloche and the case is black dieHard extreme steel featured in the special “Esprit Unique” shape with elliptic and circular bezel.

OCTA AUTOMATIQUE LUNE

FRANCk MULLER

CINTREE CURVEX MAsTER BANkER 7880 MB L dT

The automatic movement displays hours, minutes and seconds, two time zones at three and nine o’clock, day and night display in a window above each time zone and date and moon phases at six o’clock. The dial is sun-stamped lacquered white with black Arabic numerals, and the case is a rose gold Cintrée Curvex style. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

FREdERIQUE CONsTANT

sLIMLINE MOONPHAsE MANUFACTURE

Frederique Constant presents a new variation of this timepiece exclusively for the Americas. Inspired by the deep blues of the lunar atmosphere, the watch features a midnight navy blue dial and a navy alligator strap, as well as a stainless steel 42mm rose gold case. The timepiece is a 300-piece limited edition.

gLAsHĂ&#x153;TTE ORIgINAL

This timepiece features a 40mm red gold case with a silver dial. To the upper right, the moon phase display shows a golden moon and shimmering stars against a dark blue night sky. The piece is powered by the in-house caliber 93-02 automatic winding mechanical movement.

gIRARd-PERREgAUX

VINTAgE 1945 XXL

Featuring a large date and moon phase, this timepiece is presented in a 36.10mm x 35.25mm pink gold case on a black alligator strap. An inhouse automatic movement offers hours, minutes and small seconds, as well as a large date and moon phase indicator. The dial is sapphire with Breguet-style numerals.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

PANOLUNAR TOURBILLON

gRAHAM

TOURBILLON ORRERY

This timepiece celebrates 300 years of the Orrery and is a limited edition of 20 pieces. The Orrery includes the Moon, Earth, Mars, and the sun based on a 300-year calendar. A pink gold hand-engraved tourbillon bridge with two phoenix heads represents the sun. A year counter is on the case back.

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

H. MOsER & CIE

ENdEAVOUR PERPETUAL MOON

With a moon phase display that deviates only by a day after more than 1,000 years, this watch shows the moon from the northern hemisphere in a window on the dial. depending on the relative positions of the moon and the sun, different positions of the half moon are illuminated. The watch has a diameter of 40.8mm and the dial is a dark blue.

HERMÈs

To mark its 35th anniversary, the Arceau model, designed by Henri d’Origny, features the phases of the moon. With a 38mm steel case, this watch displays the hours and minutes, along with two complications: moon phases on a deep blue disc with silvered moon and stars, and a date indication, which marks off the days of the lunar cycles.

HUBLOT

ATIkYTHERA sUNMOON

This timepiece is based on the Antikythera mechanism, one of the most mysterious objects in the history of civilization. An edition of 20 pieces, the watch features a simpliﬁed version of the original mechanism and includes both a solar and lunar calendar, as well as an indication showing the sidereal position of the sun. and moon.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

ARCEAU PETITE LUNE

IWC

PORTUgUEsE PERPETUAL CALENdAR BOUTIQUE EdITION

An IWC mechanical movement featuring a Pellaton automatic winding system powers its perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, and year in four digits and a perpetual moon phase. The watch is a limited series of 500 pieces and the case measures 44.2mm, featured in stainless steel with a silverplated dial.

JAEgER-LECOULTRE

dUOMÈTRE À QUANTIÈME LUNAIRE

This 40.55 mm white gold timepiece features a dial crafted in grand feu enamel. The dial boasts hours, minutes, seconds, and moonphase displays via the Calibre 381 based on the dual-Wing concept with two separate power reserves. Other functions include jump stop seconds with zero/reset system and date.

JAQUET dROZ

Featured in white gold and set with 248 diamonds, this 39mm piece is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement that boasts a long 68-hour power reserve and retrograde moon phase. The dial is white mother-of-pearl with eight stars and moon appliques in red gold with rhodium treatment.

LONgINEs

sAINT-IMIER COLLECTION RETROgRAdE MOON PHAsEs

This 44mm timepiece features a black dial with white Arabic numerals. A mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre L707, features hours and minutes, as well as four retrograde functions – day, date, small seconds and 24-hour timezone. Phases of the moon and day and night indication are also featured.

THE ECLIPsE MOTHER-OF-PEARL

MAURICE LACROIX

MAsTERPIECE LUNE RETROgRAdE

This 43mm watch features a blue dial with time markers slightly raised on the satin sunburst finish. The calendar is housed at 10 o’clock in a wide retrograde arch, while the power reserve is dynamically displayed at 2 o’clock. The self-winding ML 192 movement, manufactured entirely in-house, powers this piece. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

MB&F

MOONMACHINE

This timepiece is based on a specifically configured HM3 Frog, and the moon complication was created by Finnish watchmaker stepan sarpaneva. This limited edition is available in titanium, black titanium, red gold and white gold and the color of the sky varies per edition: light blue, dark blue and anthracite.

MONTBLANC

This 42mm stainless steel automatic piece features central hours, minutes, and seconds, as well as moon phases and pointer date. The moon’s phases are depicted as they appear in the Northern and southern hemispheres. The dial is silver with blue hands and black Arabic numerals.

MOVAdO

REd LABEL

This 42mm stainless steel automatic model features an exhibition case back with a black/grey dial highlighting an artist-enhanced photographic image of North America, as well as a moon ampliﬁcation indicator, date indicator subdial and silver-toned signature concave dot. The hands are skeleton dauphine.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

sTAR TWIN MOONPHAsE

OMEgA

sPEEdMAsTER MOONWATCH PROFEssIONAL “MOONPHAsE”

Featuring a chronograph, moonphase, small seconds, tachymeter and transparent case back, this 42mm steel timepiece offers a black dial and an Omega 1866 caliber with a 48-hour power reserve.

ORIs

ARTIX POINTER MOON, dATE

The Oris Artix family displays the lunar cycle by means of a pointer hand in addition to its traditional date function. superLuminova inlaid hour and minute hands ensure legibility, even in moonlight. The piece is available on black calfskin croco-pattern leather or on a metal bracelet.

PATEk PHILIPPE

The focal point of this 33.3mm gold timepiece is the white motherof-pearl dial with an engraved spiral decoration and gold applied ruthenium-black numerals, a moon phase indicator and a seconds subdial. A mechanical manually wound in-house movement, caliber 215 Ps LU, powers this piece.

PIAgET

gOUVERNEUR

This 43mm rose gold timepiece features a silverplated guilloche sunburst motif dial and 18-karat gold moon phase indicators. The timepiece is equipped with the Piaget 642P ultra-thin mechanical hand-wound moon phase tourbillon movement.

4986g-010

RAYMONd WEIL

MAEsTRO

Housed in a 44mm steel case, an automatic winding mechanical movement powers this timepiece. Four correctors enable the adjustment of the months at 2 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, the round date at 4 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock, the moon phases and the days of the week. One blue hand is tipped with a crescent moon pointing to the circular date, and the dial is silver. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

WATCH GUIDE WATCH gUIdE

CELESTIAL TIMEPIECES

ROgER dUBUIs

LA MONégAsQUE PERPETUAL CALENdAR

This timepiece is presented in a 44mm pink gold case with a black dLCcoated titanium bezel and sapphire case back. self-winding in-house movement, Caliber Rd821J, powers the timepiece, which offers day of the week, month, date, leap year and moon phases on the dial.

ROMAIN JEROME

With a bezel-free case measuring 49mm x 45mm x 20mm, this timepiece features a case that combines steel from the Apollo 11 spacecraft with stainless steel. The watch is a 25-piece limited edition and plays a large role in expanding the Moon-dNA collection. The dial contains moon dust with a laser engraved “stellar-pattern.”

sARPANEVA

kORONA MOONsHINE

This 46mm timepiece features a steel skeleton dial coated with black diamond. The face of the moon is made of oxidized sterling silver or 18-karat gold. The hands are also skeletonized, made of stainless steel. A mechanical, automatic winding movement is at the heart of the piece.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

MOON ORBITER sPEEd METAL

sEIkO

ANANTA AUTOMATIC CHRONOgRAPH LIMITEd EdITION

This 42.8mm chronograph features a hand-painted deep blue lacquer dial. It’s a 100th Anniversary watch evoking the samurai. The timepiece features a seiko automatic chronograph, stainless steel bracelet, and a crescent moon on the dial inspired by the helmet worn by Masamune date, the 17th century daimyo.

ULYssE NARdIN

MOONsTRUCk

Part of the Astronomical timepieces collection, this watch is equipped with moon phases, a second timezone adjuster and date. It is a limited edition of 500 pieces and is powered by the automatic caliber UN-106. The red gold case measures 46mm and the watch is water resistant to 100 meters.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELs

debuted at sIHH 2014, this much-discussed timepiece features a 44mm pink gold case with a pink gold dial and aventurine, serpentine, chloromelanite, turquoise, red jasper, blue agate and sugilite. The selfwinding mechanical movement with a Christian van der klaauw module was developed exclusively for Van Cleef & Arpels.

ZANNETTI

FULL skY

This 42mm stainless steel piece features a 10,000-year-old wooly mammoth ivory dial that is both hand engraved and hand painted. The watch boasts a sapphire crystal front and back and is powered by a self-winding swiss ETA movement. The timepiece is presented on a crocodile strap with a steel deployant buckle.

MIdNIgHT PANĂŠTARIUM POETIC COMPLICATION

ZENITH

EL PRIMERO CHRONOMAsTER BIg dATE

The highlight of this piece is the opening that reveals the legendary El Primero movement at work. It is featured within a rose gold 45mm case and offers a chronograph with moon and sun phase indicator with large date. The dial is brown-toned sunray.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

COVER STORY COVER STORY

JAQUET DROZ T H E

B I R D

R E P E A T E R

Exceptional animations, poetry in nature: a remarkable automaton watch by Jaquet Droz honors Geneva, where Pierre JaquetDroz opened his third workshop in 1784.

or this new edition, Jaquet Droz has brought together the sum of the talents that make up its Ateliers d’Art to stage a further celebration, this one in praise of Geneva, where Pierre Jaquet-Droz opened the city’s first clockmaking manufacture in 1784 and, at the same time, introduced the production of timepieces featuring grand complications. Pastoral and urban converge to form the background décor of The Bird Repeater Geneva, uniting all the symbols of the Swiss city on a white mother-of-pearl dial. Thus have the engravers, painters and enamelers achieved the feat of reproducing, in miniature, Lake Geneva, its famous Jet d’Eau fountain and lighthouse - Le Phare des Pâquis - as well as the silhouette of the Salève, the pre-Alpine peak considered the city’s “balcony.” At the center of the dial, a pair of elegant goldfinches have nested right in the heart of Île Rousseau, the island paradise for birds located precisely at the entrance to the lake. These creatures, their plumage as brightly colored as a Fauvist canvas, hand-sculpted in gold, are accompanied by their two young, and the group is gathered around an egg in the middle of the nest. The meticulously rendered details, the vivacity of the colors, the attention paid as much to the eyes as to each wisp of straw, is a testament to the illustrative talent of the La Chauxde-Fonds artisans. And, as always with Jaquet Droz, beauty and mechanical genius go hand in hand. In keeping with previous editions, The Bird Repeater Geneva boasts 8 animations, minuscule yet spectacular - the birds feeding their fledglings, the spreading wings, the flowing water, the hatching egg - and all paying genuine tribute to the renowned humanoid

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

G E N E V A

automata created by Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his son in the 18th century. The animated tableau contrasts with the great simplicity of the hours and minutes dial, off-centered at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock and produced from a disc of black onyx on which two red gold lancine hands make their circular journey, echoing the light diffused by the case, also in red gold and 47 millimeters in diameter. Equipped with a Jaquet Droz RMA88 automatic winding movement and enjoying a 48-hour power reserve, The Bird Repeater Geneva models number just eight in total. A figure redolent with symbolism in the world of Jaquet Droz, connoisseurs will not fail to capture its full significance and all the magic it encapsulates.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

COVER STORY COVER STORY

celebrating the year of the goat The tradition is now established: every Chinese New Year Jaquet Droz observes the change in the zodiac cycle with a model celebrating a rare technique or new craft skill practiced in its Ateliers d’Art. It is a way for the brand known by its twin stars to pay tribute to its ties with China since the 18th century. At the beginning of the Year of the Goat, the Swiss watchmaking firm will launch two new models in honor of this animal - symbol of imagination, creativity, and a world of pastoral riches. The form of this creature recalls the nourishment it provides, but also presents a real aesthetic challenge when it comes to reproducing it on the dial of the Petite Heure Minute model. The artisans of the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art, who live and breathe this sense of challenge, decided to represent not just one goat, but three. Springing from the summit of an imaginary mountain, like an allegory of achievement and the hope of success for the year ahead, the three animals astonish with their striking realism. Each element of the body, each minute detail, is thrown into relief in three dimensions by the master artisan’s skillful touch. The end result is all the more captivating against the backdrop of a stylized dial evoking a motif of plum blossom in pure, simple lines. Together with bamboo, chrysanthemum and orchid, plum blossom is one of the four noble flowers that featured in Chinese iconography over 1,600 years ago. Unfolding their petals in winter, these blooms are an early herald of the promises of spring and youth refound. They stand out against a background of white mother-of-pearl or black onyx, two materials that reappear on the underside of an oscillating weight surmounted by a ram’s head. To create the stylized plum blossom, “meihua” in Chinese, the Ateliers d’Art used champlevé enameling, a particularly demanding technique that guarantees a result of exceptional delicacy. The metal is hollowed out according to the desired design and the hollows are then filled with enamel, fired and hand-polished. The finished dial is reminiscent of the exquisitely fragile masterpieces of “Jianzhi,” the Chinese art of paper cutting that dates from the middle of the first millennium. Limited to just 28 pieces each, these two models work equally well in the fresh palette of white gold and Jaquet Droz blue and in the warm tones of red gold paired with a delicious wine burgundy. As precious good luck charms anticipating all the triumphs and successes of the new year, they will delight both connoisseurs and collectors in the know.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

TECHNICAL TECHNICAL

Fun FUNCTION BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

We’ve assembled a few recent watches with displays and functions that you won’t ﬁnd listed under the heading “classic complications” in any horology textbook.

echanical timepieces have long offered wearers the ability to track much more than the time of day. Consider the perpetual calendar with all its indications, including date, day of the week, year, moon phase, chronograph, and even repeaters and sidereal time indication in some particularly complex versions. These are classical complications, the kind typically tallied by watchmakers when describing a grand complication. Most, if not all, have been made for a century or so, and each requires the services of a talented watchmaker to realize. But in recent years, with the advent of computer-assisted design and fabrication technology, a few mechanical timepieces have ventured well outside their traditional role delivering time and calendar displays to also include functions not considered as typical for non-electronic wristwear. As watchmakers have expanded their use of all sorts of (computer-generated) miniature components, certain sensors and functional devices have entered watch cases from seemingly unrelated sources. A few companies, for instance, have placed meteorological tools within a watch case. Several watches now display the air temperature, and at least one shows relative humidity. As pilots and divers have long been integral to the development of sports watches, timepiece makers have worked hard for decades to meet the very specific needs of flyers and divers. But only in recent years have watchmakers included mechanical depth meters and altimeters within a watch case (though electronic devices have long been available). The tallying needs of golfers and even tennis players have also recently attracted watchmakers. The ability to gamble is another – possibly surprising – function a few watchmakers have placed into a case. In one sense this function has always been available, as gamblers will bet on many timed events, which a chronograph can easily adjudicate. But watchmakers like Corum, Franck Muller and Girard-Perregaux several years ago introduced models with pushers and levers that activate very specific poker and slot-machine functions. Newer examples of these watches from Perrelet and Christophe Claret are pictured on the following pages. Non-lubricating liquids, typically shunned by all watchmakers, were recently placed front and center inside HYT watches (as our cover story last month explained) to display the hour. While HYT employs this new technology purely to relate a classic function (displaying the hours), HYT’s fluidic focus is so avant-garde it would seem an omission from any story on newfangled complications to not acknowledge the company’s creations.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Jaermann & Stübi | Stroke Play Skeleton Swiss brand Jaermann & Stübi has made its name in recent years creating a mechanical watch for golfers that displays the number of strokes per hole, the hole currently in play and the total score, and compares the total score with the handicap. Pictured is the brand’s 2014 skeleton model based on its Stroke Play collection. The rotating bezel allows players to compare the played score after each round of golf with their handicaps.

1. Oris | Aquis Depth Gauge This patented timepiece is the first of its kind to measure depth using a unique gauge built into the sapphire crystal, which allows water to enter the watch. 2. Oris | Big Crown ProPilot This 47mm model features a patented laminated carbon fiber altimeter. Once set, the watch shows the current altitude via a yellow indicator, and the corresponding air pressure via a red indicator. 3. Richard Mille | RM 36-01 Under the button in the center of the sapphire crystal is a g-force sensor that can be manually rotated via the bezel to align it to the required direction, indicating the lateral acceleration/deceleration and longitudinal g-forces. 4. HYT | H2 Iceberg White Gold The company’s horological hydrologists have developed a method of indicating the hours using a specialized liquid display. Yes, it’s a classic function, but done so untraditionally that we had to include it here. 5. Urwerk | UR-1001 While this model offers numerous classic calendar functions, though covering incredibly long time periods, it also offers a unique Oil Change indicator, which alerts the user when a service is due after three years: the dial changes from white (years one to three) to red (years three to five). 6. Breva | Génie 02 Terre The Génie 02 features an aneroid capsule altimeter (measuring air pressure), which was developed to register air pressure for altitude readings, differing with the Génie 01, which measured barometric pressure. 7. Perrelet | Turbine Poker The cards here are spread around the dial, playing hide and seek beneath the characteristic twelve-blade wheel. Perrelet offers three dial options. 8. Christophe Claret | 21 Blackjack and Margot One of many complex models that display unorthodox functions from this Swiss-based master. Here, the watch allows the wearer to play blackjack. The recent Margot offers the wearer the ability to play “He Loves me, He loves me not” with a flower and movable petals on the dial. 9. Blancpain | X-Fathoms The 55.6mm watch combines elements of the original Fifty Fathoms models with a modern mechanical depth gauge.

7 6

8 INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

When it comes to collecting vintage Rolex sport watches from the 1950s through the 1970s, dials are the single most important component affecting desirability. BY PAUL BOUTROS

“Four Line” Rolex Submariner, Ref. 6538

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239 with Paul Newman Dial

Rolex Submariner, Ref. A/6538, with red depth rating

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Photos by Paul Boutros for Timezone.com

n general, the dial of a typical vintage watch is responsible for fifty percent to seventy percent of its value. When one considers that a dial is the main component a wearer sees when a watch is worn on the wrist, its importance begins to make sense. Subtleties are what differentiate more common dials from rare variants. These differences, such as the presence of a tiny underline – things that might seem like utter minutiae for newcomers to vintage watches – dramatically increase a watch’s value. Analogies can be found in the world of coin collecting, where tiny differences such as a “double-died” date or a “P” mint mark can lead to extraordinary premiums. Understanding these nuances is what captures the minds of those passionate about vintage Rolex watches. Daytona Few watches demonstrate the importance of a dial as vividly as the Rolex Daytona. Launched in 1963, it has been in continuous production since, with a design that has slowly and modestly evolved from the original. Due to its timeless styling, the Daytona has become one of the most desirable of all vintage wristwatches. The most coveted are those fitted with multi-colored or so-called Paul Newman dials. Distinguished from standard dials by their playful, art-deco fonts, stepped subdials, and a stepped outer circumference, Paul Newman-style dials were made between the mid-1960s and early 1980s. Since they were primarily available by special request, and since they sold poorly, genuine examples are quite rare. Normal Paul Newman Daytonas command a $60,000 to $90,000 premium over a Daytona fitted with a standard dial. But buyers should beware. Due to these high values, counterfeit Paul Newman dials are abundant. Being able to recognize the very subtle details that distinguish a fake dial from a genuine dial takes significant experience, but is of vital importance if considering the purchase of one. Submariner The Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1954, is another classic and highly collectible watch that slowly evolved over its fifty years of production. Earliest examples were fitted with shiny, reflective black dials, most often using gold-colored printing. As Rolex was maturing the product line

“

SUBTLE NUANCES, OVERLOOKED BY MOST PEOPLE, ARE OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE TO COLLECTORS.”

during the first few years, the brand experimented frequently with the text printed on the dial. Items such as the style of the printed coronet and the inclusion of depth ratings or “Officially Certified Chronometer” (OCC) text changed often. These subtle nuances, easily overlooked by most people, are again of utmost importance to collectors. Some of these experimental dials were produced in very limited quantities. When they surface today, watches fitted with such dials command a fortune. For example, when a depth rating printed in red appears at 6 o’clock on a Big Crown Submariner, referring to the large crown found on the references 6200, 6538, and 5510, collectors will easily pay an additional $75,000 to $150,000 or more over those with a gold-colored rating. If “SCOC” text is found on a Big Crown dial, referred to by collectors as a “four-line” dial since the printed text at 6 o’clock occupies four separate lines, knowledgeable – and well-heeled – collectors will happily pay similar premiums. Later vintage submariners in steel, references 1680, 5512, and 5513 produced from 1967 through 1983, were fitted with matte-black dials using white printing. Dial subtleties abound even on these more common and affordable vintage Submariners. Mainly due to their relative rarity, collectors will pay a premium for early “meters first” dials where Rolex printed the depth rating as “200 m = 660 ft” as opposed to positioning the meters rating second in later dial variants. Aging In addition to font and text differences, due to the use of materials susceptible to aging, collectors appreciate the patina that naturally develops on the dials of vintage watches. With vintage Rolex sport watches, the color of the radium and tritium used on hour markers can range from bright white to coffee brown. On rare examples, the black surfaces of both the early glossy dials and later matte dials had a tendency to fade to appealing shades of brown. Known as “tropical” dials since they’re usually found on watches that spent their lives in hot and humid climates, collectors will pay hefty premiums for those with dramatic or uniform brown colorations. Paul Boutros is co-founder of Watch Enthusiasts of New York and is a timepiece strategy consultant to luxury brands. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

TRIO

COLLECTIBLE BY CHRIS GREENBERG

A detailed look at three exemplary vintage watches now available from the Christie’s online Watch Shop: Chris Greenberg describes the details, provenance and technical features of highly desirable models from Patek Philippe, Rolex and Jaeger-LeCoultre, noting exactly what makes these three timepieces so attractive to collectors. Chris Greenberg is a Toronto-based writer and wristwatch collector who is intrigued by the historical origins of vintage pieces and how manufacturers’ archives influence current 1958 Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox

movements and designs. He’s been very fortunate to get to share that enthusiasm and collecting endeavor with his father.

Patek Philippe Reference 1461 (1945)

On the eve of World War II in 1939 Henri Stern telegrammed Geneva from Patek Philippe’s New York office in celebration of the company’s 100th anniversary. His message was optimistic, despite the impending world war. “A century of work and probity has gone, and in continuing the traditions which have made their strength, Patek, Philippe & Cie. can look forward to a bright and prosperous future,” he wrote. Patek Philippe during the next fifteen years produced a collection of technically advanced and aesthetically special wristwatches - perpetual calendar chronographs and split-seconds chronographs as examples - but it also excelled at simple time-only pieces with fancy cases and lugs. En vogue in the 1940s and 1950s, these pieces represent vintage Patek at its finest. This stainless steel, teardrop lug reference 1461 is an example of the time-only series produced from 1940 until approximately 1953 in a variety of combinations. Cases were made in steel, yellow or pink gold, and two-tone gold with steel, while dials seen at auction have been silver, copper-colored, or two-toned (pink gold is less common, albeit a likely option as well). Marking the hours are straight baton indexes or dots in gold or steel, and if numerals are present they are typically Arabic combined with dots, as seen on this watch. That said, there are always special Patek references and at least one 1461 is known to have gold Breguet numerals and a Tiffany & Co. signature. Depending on the year, the dial reads either Patek Philippe & Co, or today’s modern iteration, Patek Philippe. By 1947 the ‘& Co’ began to be dropped from dials and by 1950 it was no longer available. Throughout its life the 1461 housed one of three 10-ligne (22 mm) mechanical movements. Regarded as some of the finest that Patek made during that time, calibers 10-105, 10-110, 10-200 eventually paved the way for the venerated caliber 215 that arrived in 1974.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

This particular piece was sold October 3, 1945, almost five months to the day World War II ended in Europe. It’s powered by the 18-jewel caliber 10-110. A beautiful and now rare watch, perhaps it was ordered in celebration as a cautiously optimistic statement about the future expressed through a luxury object. We’ll never know, but the stories of these pieces are what’s so compelling about this era of vintage collecting.

Patek Philippe 1461: The slightly domed crystal (and lack of a bezel) gives this watch a particularly vintage feel, making it wear larger than its 32mm.

LeCoultre

Memovox (1959)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox was the watch intended to “remind, warn and awaken” the wearer. Introduced at the 1950 Basel Fair, it was an immediate hit. World War II was over and prosperity was slowly returning to the world. What more useful feature for optimistic professionals in the technological age than an alarm wristwatch? It was Jaeger’s “voice of memory.” The Vulcain Cricket beat the Memovox to the market by three years, but Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Memovox Automatic was the first self-winding alarm wristwatch. It used two barrels: the time function was wound automatically (hence the name) and the alarm wound by hand. It was first realized in a 32mm case and like the Cricket it used a manual-wind movement (cal. 489 for the Jaeger). By 1956 Jaeger had advanced its technology. It re-imagined its alarm watch as the Memovox Automatic giving it a 37mm case and the automatic cal. 815, which is a large (31.6mm) bumper movement, which means the rotor’s travel is restricted to a semi-circular arc. A year later Jaeger-LeCoultre released two rather unique pieces: a “Parking” version with 30-, 60-, 90-minute and 2-hour markings aimed at beating the parking meter, as well as a world timer. The latter features countries we’re not necessarily accustomed to seeing today like Bagdad (Jaeger-LeCoultre’s spelling at the time), Calcutta and Acores Island. A nice vintage touch. The Memovox progressed with myriad dial and case combinations, but it wasn’t until 1959 that it could provide the date. This piece is double-signed Memodate, acknowledging the additional complication (cal. 825) and LeCoultre (as opposed to Jaeger-LeCoultre) designating the U.S. market. The stainless dial is an inverted pie pan, which is aesthetic and functional - the inner portion rotates setting the alarm via the applied triangular marker. The baton hour indexes are also applied. Often overlooked is the Roman 6 and 9. Easily identifiable by the double crowns, the watch is vintage in look and function. The alarm could only be set at approximately twelve-to-fifteen-minute intervals. In general, alarm complications are an under-appreciated function. Impractical to some by today’s digital alarm standards, the charm factor of a manual-wind alarm is nonetheless so high that this watch is quite collectible. This watch is a fun look back on an era when its features were considered high technology.

LeCoultre: The details of this vintage LeCoultre are subtle but nice. Note the slightly bent minute and seconds hands and the slope of the outer dial.

Rolex: This shows the beautiful architecture of the Rolex cal. 727 column wheel chronograph.

Rolex

Reference 6265 Cosmograph Daytona (1969)

In 1963 Rolex introduced the pivotal reference 6239 Cosmograph Daytona to its longstanding chronograph family. An aesthetic leap for the brand, it provided two stylistic firsts for Rolex: the tachymeter scale was relocated to the bezel, and the subdials contrasted the dial. These were small changes, but they were significantly important to legibility. An almost perfect design, it shared its bezel configuration with another now highly venerated piece, the 1957 Omega Speedmaster reference 2915. Both were two-button, two-register chronographs created for the sporting and professionally minded. While the Omega eventually developed into the watch that accompanied NASA astronauts, the Cosmograph became synonymous with auto racing and is now almost peerless in terms of collectability. The origin of that single most important word on Cosmograph dials started in 1962. Rolex sponsored the inaugural endurance race at the Daytona International Speedway, and by 1964 “Daytona” began appearing on the dials to showcase that ongoing involvement and to build American consumer interest; by 1965 Rolex was the official timing partner. Collecting Rolex is an exercise in details, and this “Big Red” 6265 is a perfect example. The red Daytona signature is slightly larger and placed slightly higher than on most Cosmographs. It’s a small feature, but a rarely seen one today. Other differences are equally as subtle throughout the seven vintage Cosmograph references. “Daytona” is either printed on the dial or not. Others feature black plastic or metal bezels. More overt differences vary between screw-down or pump pushers and standard or exotic dials (like the so-called ‘Paul Newman’ dial). Movements, too, progressed throughout the series, although this is less a collecting point than the stylistic features. Introduced in 1969, this 6265 and its companion 6263 were the final Cosmographs to house a version of the manual-wind Valjoux 72 movement (cal. 727). Additionally these are the final Cosmographs in the old-style Daytona case, including the screw-down pushers, which is noteworthy. These pushers cemented high water resistance, which is why “Oyster” is on the dial. But the screw-in feature was also a hindrance and in part contributed to poor sales - buyers found unscrewing the crown to wind the watch cumbersome. Additionally, an open crown left the watch susceptible to water and dust, contradicting the point of the Oyster. The shortcomings were solved in 1988 when Rolex began sourcing and modifying automatic Zenith movements. Brand new the 6265 cost $325 (approximately $2,009 equivalent in 2014). We should all have bought two dozen and stored them in shoeboxes for a rainy day. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

NOW THEN Many watch brands look to their past for inspiration for the future, using their archives as a valuable resource. Whether it is a particular style, movement or artisanal technique, past successes help create the history of a brand and provide options for new watch models based on the spirit of the original. On the following pages we’ve gathered some examples of new watches (Now) based on beloved—and earlier— iterations (Then).

NOW

THEN

ALPINA ALPINER 4 RACE FOR WATER The Alpiner 4 Race for Water is based on the original Alpina 4 from the 1940s with its round case and easy-to-read dial. The stainless steel Alpiner 4 Automatic Chronograph Race for Water is a limited edition of 400 pieces with proceeds from the sale benefiting water preservation.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

NOW

THEN

AUDEMARS PIGUET TRADITION GRANDE COMPLICATION The Tradition Grande Complication is a selfwinding watch featuring a perpetual calendar indicating the day, date, week, moon phases, month and leap years. It also has a minute repeater and split-seconds chronograph, with small seconds at 9 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. It is inspired by the bold lines of a cushion-shaped pocket watch created in 1923.

BLANCPAIN

NOW

THEN

FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE

The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is inspired by the original Fifty Fathoms wristwatch from the 1950s. The 43mm titanium timepiece features a black dial, like the original, framed by a unidirectional satin-brushed titanium bezel with ceramic insert and Liqidmetal markers.

NOW

THEN

BULOVA ACCUTRON II ALPHA Bulova released the Accutron II Alpha collection in 2014, inspired by the first Alpha series of Accutron Spaceview watches from the 1960s that used tuning fork electronic movements. The current model is a 42mm quartz-driven watch shown on a leather strap with a deployant buckle. It is water resistant to 30 meters.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

BREITLING

NOW

THEN

NAVITIMER AOPA 75TH ANNIVERSARY

Breitling celebrates the 75th anniversary of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association with the limited edition Navitimer. It features the AOPA logo on the dial, similar to the version launched in 1954. On the caseback, members may have their name and membership number engraved to commemorate the anniversary. The avitimer is one of the oldest chronographs consistently in production.

NOW

THEN

F. P. JOURNE HISTORICAL ANNIVERSARY TOURBILLON

This limited edition wristwatch (99 pieces) is a reinterpretation of Journe’s original masterpiece watch using the same materials as 30 years ago: a case in silver guilloche enhanced by two gold bezels. The transparent sapphire caseback reveals the movement created in grained and gilded brass, identical to the original of 1983. The lateral pallet escapement replaces the detent escapement of the original watch, and winding and time-setting, formerly done with with a key, is now accomplished via a crown.

NOW

HAMILTON PAN EUROP Based on the original Pan Europ from the 1970s, today’s Pan Europ is true to its predecessor in spirit and design. The 42mm steel watch is powered by the H-30 movement with 80 hours of power reserve, visible through the caseback. It comes with a leather strap and a red, white and blue textile strap—as well as a changing tool for easy swapping.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

THEN

NOW

THEN

ORIS CHRONORIS Combining the style of the original Chronoris from 1970 with the latest developments in technology, the Chronoris now includes the additional minute counter positioned at 12 o’clock, a tachymeter scale on the inner dial ring and the Quick Lock system to secure the big crown. The 40mm stainless steel watch comes on a leather strap.

PATEK PHILIPPE

NOW

THEN

CALATRAVA, REF. 5123R-001 Though this model is based on one from the 1950s, the Calatrava actually dates to 1932, when the first model of the Calatrava collection, the Ref. 96, was created. This timeless, understated watch is inspired by the minimalist principles of the Bauhaus, and its name is taken from that of the cross that is used as Patek Philippe’s emblem. Today’s 38mm rose gold Calatrava, Ref. 5123R-001, is powered by the caliber 215 PS

NOW

THEN

TISSOT HERITAGE NAVIGATOR

Celebrating its 160th Anniversary with a piece first created for Tissot’s centenary in 1953, the Heritage Navigator is the ultimate traveler’s watch. With its automatic chronometer precision (officially certified by COSC), the 43mm stainless steel watch tells the time in multiple zones: the time is indicated by the minute track on the dial in front of its capital city.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

NOW

THEN

ROLEX COSMOGRAPH DAYTONA PLATINUM The Cosmograph Daytona, first introduced in 1963, was designed to meet the needs of professional racing drivers, with its reliable chronograph and bezel with tachymetric scale. Based on the original Cosmograph Daytona, the 40mm Oyster Cosmograph Daytona Platinum allows drivers to perfectly measure average speeds up to 400 kilometers and also measures in miles per hour.

NOW

THEN

TUDOR HERITAGE BLACK BAY

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay derives its overall lines and its domed crystal from the brand’s first divers’ watch, the Tudor Submariner, launched in 1954. Its domed dial is a feature shared by the first Tudor Submariner models, and its large winding crown is a nod to a model presented in 1958, reference 7924, dubbed “Big Crown” by collectors. The angular hands, known by connoisseurs as “Snowflakes,” were seen from 1969 to the early 1980s. Shown here with a midnightblue bezel, the 41mm steel-cased Heritage Black Bay has a self-winding mechanical movement.

ZENITH EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER 1969

The El Primero Chronomaster 1969 is reminiscent of the historic El Primero 1969 with its iconic colors and ebullient spirit. The 42mm steel automatic column-wheel El Primero chronograph features the El Primero 4061 automatic movement with an oscillating weight with “Côtes de Genève” engraving visible through the see-through caseback. The silver-toned sunray dial features two colorful counters: the 30-minute counter is at 3 o’clock and the 12-hour counter is at 6 o’clock.

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

NOW

THEN

BASELWORLD.COM

A unique window to the universe of watches and jewellery where all key players showcase trendsetting creations and innovations. Seize this opportunity to experience passion, precision and perfection.

M AR C H 19 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 26, 2015

AUCTIONS AUCTIONS

starting

a COLLECTION By JacoB Sotak | PhotoS By atom moore

The beginning collector should enjoy the individualized expression that a vintage watch offers.

t analog/shift, we are approached by many individuals ready to begin collecting vintage timepieces. Many are paralyzed by a simple initial question: Which vintage watch should be my first? There is no stock answer to this question. In fact, we try not to answer that question at all. We believe that more important than what watch to buy is how to buy it. In the digital age, we have a level of access to goods and services that is unprecedented in human history, but with it comes a level of mistrust, especially in regard to high-value and collectible pieces. But with a few simple guidelines, any collector, regardless of their experience, can venture into vintage timepieces confidently. 1. Big brands aren’t always the way to go. Go anywhere on this planet and you will likely find a person who has heard of Rolex or Omega, and while these brands have created some of the most desirable and important watches to date, there are scads of small brands that a savvy collector should be familiar with. Oftentimes, a watch from a smaller manufacture will have many of the same functional parts as those from a household name but will be significantly less expensive. In short, don’t let the name printed on the dial keep you from getting an excellent vintage piece. 2. Originality trumps looks. Watches that appear newer and have less aging or patina often distract the entry-level collector. However, a dial that looks new often is. While this many be a comforting thought when dealing in modern pieces, it is generally a red flag for vintage ones. Vintage watches have all had their time on the wrist and often bear the

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

marks of timepieces that have survived through the ages. Marks on the case, patina on luminous material and faded or aged dials suggest that the watch is more likely to be original than one that looks brand new. While there are exceptions to this rule, we recommend that anyone beginning a vintage collection become well acquainted with the signs of aging that timepieces take on. While there are various methods of authenticating watches that we use in our day to day, one thing is certain – we always prefer a watch that is original to one that has been refurbished or refinished simply to make it look more attractive. 3. There is a watch for every wrist. The world of vintage watches is incredibly diverse, with case designs and dial configurations that range from the most conservative to the most colorful and fun. We believe that buying a vintage watch is more than speculating on value for investment purposes. While there are watches that are sure to appreciate, we think that the beginning collector should enjoy the individualized expression that a vintage watch offers. Don’t waste your time with a watch that will spend the rest of its life in the safe or the sock drawer. Figure out what moves you and find the best example possible. For the enthusiast-turned-collector, we have assembled a guide outlining sixteen watches from four separate categories that we believe represent a great way to make the shift to vintage. Jacob Sotak is the COO of analog/shift (www.analogshift.com)

Collector Chat

CHRONOGRAPHS DIVE

DRESS DIFFERENT

Vintage Watches

Below are sixteen timepieces for the beginning vintage watch collector to consider. We’ve included four watches of differing price ranges in four primary collecting categories. By JameS LamDIN

CHRONOGRAPHS Seiko 6139

Japan’s first automatic chronograph movement. Highly collectable with a wide variety of shapes and styles, but be wary of examples with aftermarket components!

Bulova Chronograph

Loads of 70s charm and great value in these barrel-cased chronographs. Look carefully in old catalogs and you’ll see nearly identical models from Breitling and Heuer – there’s a good explanation for that!

Which watch launched your collection? The Rolex Submariner. I’ve been a scuba diver for most of my life and even worked as a professional dive master. So owning a Submariner was a dream/goal as a young student and broke dive master working for tips. I currently own a nice early 5513 Submariner, nothing fancy, but a great classic watch. – Scott When I was seventeen, I interned with Sotheby’s in NYC and I worked for both the Jewelry and Watch departments. While I had always been somewhat interested in wristwatches, it was then that the bug bit me. – Alex I have always liked watches, and started to really appreciate the idea of being able to quietly showcase something special that may or may not be noticed. I found a cool way to keep things fresh and interesting. I also found myself originally looking at new watches that were out of my price range. I realized I could buy multiple watches with a history, as well as a much larger “cool” factor for the same price. – Ryan

When I was fifteen I had saved up some money from summer jobs, and I wanted to buy myself what I considered to be my first “good watch,” a TAG Heuer F1 chronograph. – David

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

AUCTIONS AUCTIONS

CHRONOGRAPHS Wittnauer Professional Chronograph

Part of the Longines family, Wittnauer is often forgotten and overlooked even by seasoned collectors. With tremendous looks, robust movements, and large, wearable case designs, we really don’t understand why…

3 Collector Chat

Hamilton Chrono-Matic

The watches you prefer were typically made in which decade(s)? I love the 1960s era Heuers, Zeniths and Breitlings. My pieces range from the 1940s to the 1980s. – Scott I like the 1940s-1960s. Earlier pre-moon and moon-year Speedmasters are great as are the early chronographs of the late 1930s and the 1940s. The proportions, I think, were better then and the dials more thoughtfully laid out. – Alex

How about a Swiss automatic chronograph built for a great American brand? As far as stories go, they don’t get any more interesting than this. Don’t believe me? Google “Project 99.”

DIVE

I prefer the 1970s and 1980s. While I am pretty new to collecting, I really haven’t seen something much older that fits the wearable style I like. I also have some modern watches in my collection as well. – Ryan I collect chronographs and dive watches from the 1960s and 1970s – David

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

4 Seiko 6309

Pretty much the benchmark for quality dive watches, you’ll hear more stories about beloved “Turtle” cased Seikos than virtually any other when you’re hanging out at the dive shop. Hard to find with original components, but absolutely worth every penny when you can!

DIVE Wittnauer Professional Diver

These beautiful divers prove that you don’t have to break the bank to get something with killer looks and usability from Switzerland. Yet again, a case of “How have these not caught on?”

6 Rolex Submariner 16800

Everyone has been going crazy for no-date Submariners for the past few years, but if you’re considering investing in “the” dive watch, why not consider a 16800? With a date function, high-grade movement, and sapphire crystal, this is arguably the best looking and most sensible choice of the bunch!

7 DOXA Sub 300T

The most important diving watch you’ve never heard of. Responsible for more practical innovations in diving watches than most of the big names combined, and the personal choice of Jacques Cousteau. Enough said.

Collector Chat What’s on your wrist now, and what are you currently searching for? An Orvis Solunagraph (Heuer made). A cool looking, rare oddball tidal indicator chrono. At the top of my current shopping list is a military-issued (assigned into service) Zenith A. Cairelli CP-2. Also, a snowflake Tudor Milsub. – Scott I’m wearing a 37mm, mid-1940s, steel Universal Geneve Tri-Compax on a British racing green, unlined shell cordovan strap. – Alex Mid 1970s Tudor snow-flake submariner is what’s on my wrist today. I am currently looking for a Rolex 1675 root beer on a two-tone original bracelet. – Ryan A 1977 Tudor 7149/0 with a blue tachymeter bezel and blue accents, a rare bird. I’m searching for the perfect Heuer Siffert Autavia. – David

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

AUCTIONS AUCTIONS

DRESS

Omega Seamaster De Ville

There are far too many poorly redialed vintage dress Omegas on the market for our tastes, but even completely original and genuine examples aren’t going to sting the wallet too badly. Make sure you get your hands on the real deal, and a simple time-only Omega will repay you in spades!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox

The concept of a mechanical alarm watch may strike some as more a utilitarian choice than an aesthetic one, but a quick glance at a Memovox proves that Jaeger LeCoultre doesn’t ever do things one way. A great choice for dress usage and travel alike!

101

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

It didn’t take 100 years for this design to become truly iconic, but that’s how long they’ve been around. There are plenty of these to go around in both plated and solid gold; just make sure you get one with a manually-winding movement!

Rolex Day-Date

Only available in precious metals, the Day-Date adds a display telling you the day of the week to the date function found on its sibling Datejusts. While certain rare examples can go for many tens of thousands at auction, yellow gold versions with standard dials start at just $5K or so – a value that makes us scratch our heads in disbelief.

DIFFERENT

OMEGA Chronostop

Not quite a chronograph, the OMEGA Chronostop functions as a 60-second timer, making it ideal for sports and medical timekeeping. A bit odd for sure, but totally cool!

Heuer Skipper

Heuer was master of the obscure complications in the 1960s and 1970s. From laps to tides to regattas, they had a solution for every problem – this was just the coolest looking!

Wakmann Triple Date Chronograph

We’d also be skeptical if someone told us we could get a Swiss made triple calendar chronograph with robust internals and killer looks for around $2K. But it’s true – and with an interesting connection to Breitling, Wakmann has an interesting back story to boot!

IWC Ingenieur

What happens when you combine classically good looks with legendary build quality and antimagnetic properties? The IWC Ingenieur. Great history to be had here, and the best part is its relative obscurity.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

100

CLOSE UP CLOsE Up

e Th

rH udo 3T 01

eritage

Chrono Blue

TUDOR CHRONOGRAPHS

While Tudor’s newest models celebrate the company’s historic three-hand designs, its 2013 debut, the Heritage Chrono Blue (above), updates the brand’s 1973 Monte Carlo chronograph. With four classic chronograph eras, Tudor has much to work with as it prepares future models with clear lineage to the past. Here Tudor explains each of its four chronograph eras. FIRST SERIES - Tudor Oysterdate The first Tudor chronograph from 1970 was named Oysterdate and it featured a manually wound Valjoux mechanical caliber 7734 and a cam mechanism chronograph. Its 39mm case dimensions were larger than most of the time. It featured a pronounced beveled edge on its lugs and muscular, well-honed lines. The very graphic style of its dial was also unusual. Model: THis Oysterdate chronograph series, reference 7033/0, was never commercialized though it resembled the other first-generation models in every way. It was, however, endowed with an exceptional bidirectional rotatable bezel with a twelve-unit graduated black anodized aluminum insert, which prefigured the ‘Montecarlo’ reference 7169/0, launched in 1971.

103

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

SECOND SERIES Tudor Oysterdate Montecarlo This second-generation Tudor chronograph style appeared in 1971 and remained in the catalog until 1977. Nicknamed “Montecarlo” by enthusiasts because the dials are reminiscent of a casino roulette wheel, the 7100 series chronographs retain the case of their predecessors as well as the spirit of their dials with painted hour markers, but their movement is different. In place of the Valjoux caliber 7734, these Tudor chronographs were equipped with the manually wound Valjoux 234. Model: Tudor Oysterdate “Montecarlo” 7169/0. This watch was produced in large numbers and was based on the 7000 series prototype. The Tudor Oysterdate chronograph, reference 7169/0, featured a rotatable bezel and a twelve-hour graduation to tell the time in a second time zone. This reference existed in two color combinations. shown here with a blue and gray dial, it was also available in black and gray. Like the other references of the 7100 series, the 7169/0 has been in the catalog since 1971. THIRD SERIES Tudor Oysterdate “Big Block” In 1976 Tudor presented a new family of products that constituted a small revolution for the brand. These new prince Oysterdate watches were the first chronographs in the history of Tudor to be equipped with self-winding movements. Listed under the name prince Oysterdate, they were also known by the names Automatic Chrono Time or Chrono Time, referring to the signatures displayed on their dials. While their cases retained the general lines of the previous families, they became thicker to accommodate the rotor of the self-winding movement, which earned them the nickname “Big Block” in collectors’ circles. The name “Big Block” endured in the following 79100 series introduced in 1989, which featured only minimal modifications. Model: Tudor prince Oysterdate “Big Block” 9430/0. In spite of its official name, the Prince Oysterdate chronograph series does not display its name on the dial. Instead the indications “CHRONO TIME,” as on the 1976 model seen here, or “AUTOMATIC CHRONO TIME” on other dial variations, is displayed. The introduction of the self-winding Valjoux chronograph caliber 7750 brought an additional innovation to the Oysterdate chronographs in the form of a rapid date change function. Indeed, while on the previous series one had to turn the hands around the dial many times to set the date after a period of non-use, now the position of the winding crown allowed direct access to the date disc. FOURTH SERIES Tudor prince Oyster date In 1995, with the introduction of the series of 79200 references, the appearance of the prince Oyster date self-winding chronograph was rethought subtly but significantly. To begin with, the case, which over three generations of chronographs had essentially retained its sharp presence, became more refined and softer. Model: Tudor prince Oysterdate 79260, Reference 79260 was the one on which the tachometric-scale bezel with the plexiglas insert was replaced by an anodized aluminum insert with a transfer. The example pictured here was produced in 1996 and featured the new-variation chronograph dial with a silver background andv cream-colored counters.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

102

CLOSE UP CLOsE Up

THE

HOLY HEUERS Heuer collectors seek certain models above all others BY JEFF STEIN

With some brands, you may need a loupe to spot the most valuable models. Not so with the vintage Heuer chronographs of the 1960s and 70s, which are easily recognized by their distinctive styles

105

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

“

ENTHUsIAsTs WHO COLLECT sOME BRANDs OF VINTAgE WATCHEs MAY NEED TO UsE THEIR LOUpEs TO DETECT THE DETAILs THAT MAkE THEIR FAVORED MODELs sO spECIAL. THE ROLEx COLLECTOR MAY FIND ExCEpTIONAL VALUE IN THE gEOMETRY OF THE CROWN gUARDs, THE sHADE OF RED LETTERs OR A FEW MILLIMETERs OF UNDERLININg.”

euer collectors, however, can usually leave their loupes at home as the particularly cherished Heuer chronographs may easily be spotted with the naked eye. In this article, we provide an overview of a few of the “Holy Heuers,” the vintage models that are most coveted by collectors. The First Autavia In the period through the 1950s, most Heuer chronographs did not have model names. Instead, they were known by nondescript reference numbers. For example, the Reference 346 chronograph had rounded lugs, a screw-in back and waterproof pushers, and was designed for a 14-ligne movement, while the Reference 2447 had more angular lugs and was designed for a 13-ligne movement. This way of describing chronographs changed dramatically in 1962, when Heuer introduced the Autavia, its first standard chronograph to carry a model name. Heuer had used the name Autavia for a dashboard timer that it introduced in the 1930s, with the name being a combination of the words “AUTomobile” and “AVIAtion” (or, as stated in the Heuer catalogs of the period, “autos et avions”). The very first Autavia chronographs had a distinctive look. Lume was the theme, being used for the markers and numerals, as well as the hands. The registers were oversized, leaving only the narrowest of spaces between them. The bezel was wide, perfectly proportioned for the size of the case and the design of the dial. From 1962 to the mid1980s, Heuer would produce more than eighty versions of the Autavia chronograph. While most collectors have their favorite models and executions, there is a strong consensus that with this Autavia, Heuer got it right the first time. Many of these first Autavias show significant deterioration of the dial and hands, with good samples being relatively rare and selling in the range between $15,000 and $25,000.

From 1962 to 1984, Heuer would offer over 80 versions of the Autavia. Many enthusiasts believe that Heuer got it right with the very first execution

Heuer produced timepieces for many racing teams, tracks and events, but none is more coveted than the “Wing and Wheel” logo of the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, seen on this Carrera 45 Dato. Watch and image by Arno Haslinger

The Motorsports Carreras During the golden age of motorsports, Heuer was the brand of chronograph most often selected by drivers, teams and events, and in INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

104

CLOSE UP CLOsE Up

Popularized by Steve McQueen, the Monaco is the most easily recognized of the vintage Heuers. The word “Chronomatic” on the dial triples the value compared with a standard model.

Carroll Shelby handed out 23 Heuer Carreras at the 1969 New York International Auto Show. Forty five years later, the TAG Heuer acquired the 24th sample from the family of a Shelby employee. Watch and image by Jeff Stein.

Heuer’s first automatic chronographs were marked “Chronomatic”. Swiss Formula One hero Jo Siffert wore a white Autavia, with black registers and a tachymeter bezel.

many instances those involved in motorsports ordered Heuer timepieces – chronographs, stopwatches and dashboard timers – with their logos printed on the dials. We see the Ferrari, Ford, McLaren, Audi, Volvo and Mg logos on Heuer chronographs, as well as other logos associated with racing, such as Champion, simoniz and sunray. Of all the motorsports-related logos that we see on the dials on Heuer chronographs, the “wing and wheel” of the Indianapolis Motor speedway may be the most cherished. We see this logo on the dial of at least three versions of the Carrera 45 Dato, as the area otherwise occupied by the hour register provides ample space for the logo. The best guess is that these watches were sold in the gift shop of the speedway, rather than being presented to teams or drivers. For the 1969 New York International Auto show, Carroll shelby wanted something special for shelby Automotive dealers and industry VIps. The company ordered two-dozen Carrera 45 Dato chronographs, with the shelby Cobra logo across the bottom of the dial, and distributed twenty-three of them at the Auto show. shelby was pleased with the results of the show and told his east coast field sales manager, Ed Casey, that he could keep the twenty-fourth Carrera for himself. Fortyfive years later, the Casey family sold this Carrera to the TAG Heuer Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, switzerland. Having seen neither an Indianapolis Motor speedway Carrera nor a shelby Cobra Carrera sold publicly since 2010, we won’t even attempt to estimate the market value of these models. The Chronomatics The race to introduce the first automatic chronographs was a three-way affair, with the Heuer-Breitling joint venture competing with Zenith and Seiko to be the first to offer this marvel. In January 1969, the Zenith El Primero was the first automatic chronograph to be presented to the public; in May 1969, the Seiko Reference 6139 was first available in the Japanese market; but Heuer and Breitling took the prize for having their “Chronomatics” in worldwide distribution during the summer of 1969. Heuer’s first automatic chronographs were marked “Chronomatic” across the top of the dial, with the model name (Autavia, Carrera or Monaco) written across the bottom. While today’s enthusiasts understand that “Chronomatic” designates an automatic chronograph, Jack Heuer has noted that consumers in the United states -- which was then Heuer’s largest market -- were not so discerning. salesmen had to explain the meaning of the “Chronomatic”

107

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

designation and, with the distinctive feature of the watches often being lost; Heuer quickly decided that the watches needed to be marked more clearly. Heuer quickly abandoned the “Chronomatic” name, moved the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco model names to the top of the dial, and began adding the words “Automatic Chronograph” across the bottom of the dial. With this, both the salesmen and customers would understand the feature that made these watches so special. Heuer produced relatively few of the “Chronomatics” before abandoning the name, and fewer than forty of the models have been tracked by today’s collectors. The Chronomatic name appears on two versions of the Autavia: the white-dialed model with the tachymeter bezel and the black-dialed model with a bezel marked for minutes and hours. The white Autavia was worn by swiss Formula One hero Jo siffert, with today’s collectors now identifying this model as the “siffert”. In addition to the Autavias, we see the “Chronomatic” name on the Carrera (charcoal dial with white registers) and also the Monaco, which has a midnight blue dial. There was only one version of the Chronomatic Monacos, but the midnight blue paint on many samples seems to have disintegrated, with only the brass of the dial remaining. so within the Chronomatic Monacos, forty-five years after they were produced, we have two versions: those that retain their midnight blue paint and those known to collectors as the “paintless Wonders.” Black pVD Monaco The Monacos are coveted by today’s collectors, but these huge, square watches did not sell well in the early 1970s. perhaps the style was too modern for their day, and higher exchange rates for the swiss franc and competition from seiko combined to turn the Monaco into a slow seller. In the mid-1970s, watch companies were experimenting with a bold new finish for cases, using black PVD coating to give watches a military look. In a last-gasp effort to boost sales, Heuer developed a new version of the Monaco, a manual-wind model in a blackcoated case. Heuer had difficulty, however, in getting the black coating to adhere to the sharp edges of the Monaco case and it appears that this version of the Monaco never went into full production. Today’s collectors know of fewer than twenty samples, and this model has the distinction of achieving Heuer’s highest sales price at a public auction, with a near-perfect sample selling for $75,000 in a December 2010 auction. The dials and cases of the surviving black pVD Monacos usually show considerable wear. still, any sample that runs is likely to sell for at least $25,000, with the best samples fetching over twice that amount. Exotic Autavia Heuer’s original automatic chronographs were powered by the Caliber 11 and 12 movements, two-register models with twelve-hour capacity for the chronograph. The relatively high price of these models also contributed to sluggish sales, so in 1972 Heuer worked with its partners to produce a less expensive movement for its automatic chronographs. Dubbed the Caliber 15, the new movement deleted the twelve-hour recorder (so that it had thirty-minute capacity) and used a less expensive shock-proofing system. Caliber 15 movements were used for all three of Heuer’s original chronographs, the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco. Among today’s collectors, the most sought-after Heuer chronograph powered by the Caliber 15 movement has come to be known as the “Exotic” Autavia. This model has an entirely different look when compared to any other model in the Autavia line. We see large all-lume markers, checkerboard style hash marks for the 1/5-second track, bright orange hands and accents, and crosshairs for the running seconds register (at nine o’clock). When these models first began appearing on the Internet, collectors dismissed them as fakes, perhaps the work of an overly enthusiastic (or inebriated) dial refinisher. Now that the Exotic Autavia has been verified as authentic, we see them changing hands at

Heuer had trouble getting the black coating to stick to the sharp edges of the Monaco, and some early Monacos have lost the pigment of their midnight blue paint. Both of these problem watches are now highly collectible.

The “Exotic” Autavia was a lower priced version of Heuer’s automatic chronograph, with a distinctive 1970s look that is very popular among today’s collectors. Watch and image by Heuerworld.com

prices above $10,000, well above the range for other Caliber 15 Heuer chronographs. Every collector has his own “Most Wanted” list and there are several other vintage Heuer chronographs that match the scarcity and value of some of the ones covered in this article. still, vintage Heuer enthusiasts would agree that we have covered most of the holy Heuers, the ones that occupy a special place in the Heuer universe. Photos by Heuerworld.com, with watches from Richard Crosthwaite, except as otherwise indicated. Jeff Stein collects vintage chronographs and operates OnTheDash.com, the deﬁnitive reference for vintage Heuer chronographs. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

106

CLOSE UP CLOsE Up

MODERN CLASSICS

The Renaissance Black Tornado Skeleton is a contemporary manualwind model with a 45mm polished black PVD case and domed sapphire crystal.

WITH pILOT WATCHEs, skELETONIZED MODELs AND pOCkET WATCHEs, MODERN DEsIgNs MIx WITH CLAssICs AT THIs INDEpENDENT sWIss MANUFACTURER.

he romantic image of the watchmaker peering into a wristwatch at his bench in a cozy atelier in the swiss mountains is alive and well at Aerowatch. As a familyowned workshop in saignelégier, high in the Jura mountains, Aerowatch has been operating as a true testament to that swiss ideal since it was founded in La Chaux-deFonds in 1910. Today the company continues to craft mechanical (and quartz) timepieces at affordable prices. As its English name might betray, Aerowatch’s founders at the start of the twentieth century chose to identify their new company with the also-new world of aviation, proclaiming Aerowatch’s modernity and its technical expertise. Aerowatch’s grand ambitions signified that it was about to ‘take off,’ just like the world of aviation. Indeed, in one of its very first advertisements Aerowatch proudly displayed a slimline pocket watch against the backdrop of a bi-plane in front of the Eiffel Tower in paris

according to extremely demanding criteria,” explains Jean-sébastien, Aerowatch’s sales & Marketing Manager. “All our movements are composed of sets of parts crafted to chronometer-precision standards. They are meticulously decorated and embellished with blued screws. The concern to bring these fine mechanisms within everyone’s reach at extremely competitive prices enables us to stand out from many competing brands.” Among the most recent debuts is a resolutely contemporary skeleton model called the Renaissance Black Tornado skeleton. Aerowatch has long made skeletonized timepieces, and the firm’s skeletonized pocket watches for decades have been among the best values of their type. With this new wristwatch, Aerowatch expands that expertise, adding the Black Tornado to a wide offering of skeletonized wristwatches and pocket watches with both black pVD, steel and gold-plated options.

Modern indeed After focusing on pocket watches and pendants since the 1940s, Aerowatch in 2004 again added wristwatches to its production. The designs of the wristwatches remained faithful to the classic lines of the firm’s vintage models. Most are crafted with well-known Swiss-made mechanical hand-wound and self-winding movements, including Unitas and Valjoux calibers. One model, the Les grand Classiques Venus 203 Limited Edition ($5,460), features a rarely seen vintage Venus mechanical movement placed into a 40mm steel moonphase model. Family affair Lead by Denis Bolzli, his daughter Adeline and his sons Fred-Eric and Jean-sébastien Bolzli, Aerowatch today integrates modern designs (including several contemporary skeletonized models) with ongoing historical chronograph designs, classic three-hand and date models, pilot watches and elegant ladies watches. “Each watch is assembled and then tested in our workshops,

109

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

The Lady Butterﬂy models are among Aerowatch’s best sellers. Each features butterﬂy cut-outs that change color each hour.

1. The Homage 1910 Flyback Limited Edition is a 44mm titanium-cased model with Dubois-Dépraz self-winding chronograph with ﬂyback function. 2. The Grandes Classiques Chronograph Pilot is a 42mm steel model with matte black PVD ﬁnishing. Inside is an ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph. 3. This 42mm 1942 Automatic Moon Phase model features a self-winding Dubois-Dépraz movement with a silvered dial. 4. The Lépine Homage 1910 - Limited Edition pocket watch is a 55mm polished and palladium-plated steel manual-wind model with a vintage design. Limited to 300 pieces.

Also new is the grandes Classiques Chronograph pilote, only the latest in a growing collection of sporty automatic chronographs. A rugged 42mm pVD-blackened steel model, the watch expands the masculine Les grandes Classiques collection of steel three-hand and chronograph models designed with traditional dial layouts. Aerowatch also features a range of watches designed for women. Indeed, its collections count an almost equal number of styles for men and for women, with the latter including automatic and quartz examples placed into steel and gold-plated cases. Among the newest is the Night & Day model, which features a white mother-of-pearl dial set with eight diamonds. In fact, a ladies model, the Streamline Butterfly, is among the company’s best sellers. The Butterfly models feature butterfly cutouts on their dials that change color each hour. Jean-sebastein adds that Aerowatch designs are aimed at reaching consumers who want something not seen on everyone’s wrist. “Our customers are people who may have better-known brands, but are looking for something new,” he explains. “They are people in search of something exclusive but affordable.”Today, those customers can find Aerowatch timepieces in more than forty-three countries. They can also be seen and purchased from the firm’s new online site. For details, including pricing and full watch descriptions, see aerowatch.com.

AEROWATCH

TIMELINE

1910: Aerowatch founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds and moves to Fleurier several years later. 1935: Aerowatch moves to Neuchâtel 1942: Maxime Crevoisier takes over, moves to a new facility also in Neuchâtel. The company became specialists in the making of pocket watches and pendants. 1959: georges Crevoisier succeeds his father, develops distribution to more than thirty countries. 2001: georges Crevoisier retires, hands over to Denis Bolzli 2005: Now in Le Noirmont, Aerowatch is led by Denis Bolzli and his family, Adeline, Fred-Eric and Jean-sébastien. Debuts a first collection of wristwatches inspired by vintage pocket-watches. 2008: Aerowatch moves to saignelégier to a large luxury house built in 1896. 2010: With its Anniversary skeleton Chronograph, Aerowatch celebrates its 100th anniversary. It also adds a new line of wristwatches, Homage 1910, dedicated to aviation. 2013: Aerowatch now available in 400 points of sale worldwide, including 100 in switzerland.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

108

watch GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

BY RACHEL GOLD

COLUMN

WHEEL CHRONOGRAPHS

From the back of most column wheel chronograph watches, you’ll see the ratchet wheel that gives these elegant chronographs their name. When the chrono pushers are pressed, those six large teeth click into place along a column, rather than via ﬂat cams, to activate the start, stop, and reset actions desired by the user. More difficult to manufacture, this solution is prized by chronograph collectors for its solid action and durability. 111

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL:

SENATOR CHRONOGRApH pANORAMA DATE Debuted at BaselWorld 2014, this timepiece is powered by the new Calibre 37-01 column-wheel chronograph. The 42mm watch is available in two versions, one with a platinum case and hand-finished silver dial and the other with a red gold case and lacquered silver-grained dial. Both timepieces feature the Saxon watchmaker’s classic Senator dial visuals. The platinum version is fitted with a Louisiana alligator leather strap and fold-over clasp in platinum and the red gold version is fitted with a matte black Louisiana alligator leather strap and fold-over clasp in red gold.

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

DATOGRApH Up/DOWN

This 41mm platinum timepiece features a power reserve extended to sixty hours, a power-reserve indicator, and a proprietary oscillation system. The timepiece also features the technically complex flyback function found only in a few chronographs. The minute counter precisely jumps.

AUDEMARS pIGUET

Housed within a titanium case, this timepiece features a silver-toned dial, openworked at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock with Arabic numerals and blackened gold Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, and a silver-toned inner bezel. Functions include: tourbillon, chronograph, hours and minutes.

BLANCpAIN

pULSOMETER FLYBACk CHRONOGRApH

part of the villeret collection, this timepiece features a white grand feu enamel cambered dial, as well as a (new caliber) ﬂyback chronograph, and date. The watch is self-winding, and has a vertical clutch ﬂyback chronograph with column wheel commands. The timepiece measures 43.6mm and is featured in rose gold.

ROYAL OAk OFFSHORE TOURBILLON CHRONOGRApH

BREGUET

CLASSIQUE CHRONOGRApHE 5287

Initially known as the calibre 2310, Breguet has launched this new reference to honor this legendary column wheel chronograph movement. The calibre 533.3 is housed within a 42.5mm case in white or rose gold with a dial displaying a central chapter of hours and minutes and the seconds with a double hand at 9 o’clock. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

110

watch GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

cOLUMN-whEEL chrONOGraphs

BvLGARI

OCTO CHRONOGRApH vELOCISSIMO

This new 41.5mm model is available in three versions: pink gold on an alligator strap or solid steel cases on an alligator strap or bracelet. The timepiece is powered by the new velocissimo caliber, an integrated high-frequency automatic chronograph movement equipped with a column wheel and a silicon escapement.

CARL F. BUCHERER

The 35mm Manero MonoGraph is fitted with a complication rarely seen today: a chronograph controlled via one single pusher. The calibre CFB 1962 is an exclusive manufacture movement. The manual-winding caliber has a power reserve of 42 hours and has a column wheel to control the micro-timing.

CARTIER

CALIBRE DE CARTIER CHRONOGRApH

powered by the in-house chronograph movement, the 1904-CH MC, this timepiece boasts a self-winding vertical-clutch column-wheel motor, based on the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Calibre de Carter movement. The case measures 42mm and is presented above in steel, with a steel bezel with rail-track and heptagonal crown.

113

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

MANERO MONOGRApH

CHOpARD

L.U.C. CHRONO ONE

Designed, developed and produced by Chopard Manufacture, L.U.C. Calibre 11CF is an integrated chronograph movement equipped with a column wheel. The movement is housed within a rose gold case measuring 44mm. The timepiece boasts a power reserve of 60 hours and is COSC certified.

CHRISTOpHE CLARET

DUALTOW NIGHTEAGLE

This timepiece is a single-pusher planetary-gear chronograph with striking mechanism and tourbillon. It features several inventions, including a patented one. The case measures 42.75mm x 48.20m x 15.85mm and the dial is composed of three tinted sapphire crystals.

DE BETHUNE

The highlight of this 46mm rose gold timepiece is the De Bethune clutch system: a patented chronograph invention. In short, three different types of clutches behind three semi-independent systems controlled by three column wheels govern the different chronograph elapsed-time counters.

F.p. JOURNE

CENTIGRApHE SOUvERAIN

The hand-wound mechanical movement of this 40mm platinum timepiece indicates elapsed times from 100th of a second to 10 minutes, visible on three dials, each with a time scale in red and a tachometer scale in black. The chronograph is started, stopped, and zeroed by a rocker at two o’clock in the case.

DB29 MAxICHRONO TOURBILLON

GIRARD-pERREGAUx

1966 COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGRApH

The caliber Gp 3800-0001 is a fully integrated manually wound chronograph with the column wheel housed within a pink gold 40mm case with a 56-hour power reserve. The watch is part of the 1966 collection and features the date at 6 o’clock. The piece is available in two dial options – slate gray and silver. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

112

watch GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

cOLUMN-whEEL chrONOGraphs

GRAHAM

SILvERSTONE TOURBILLOGRApH WOODCOTE

This 48mm red gold timepiece features a silver-colored dial with a snailed center and golden hands and indexes. The watch is presented on a black croco strap. An automatic column-wheel chronograph tourbillon movement with 48-hours of power reserve is inside. The watch is one of a twenty-piece limited edition.

HUBLOT

This timepiece is the official watch of the FIFA World Cup Brazil, and is available in both rose gold and ceramic, all powered by the UNICO Manufacture caliber, featuring a column wheel and dual coupling on the dial side. This is the first time that Hublot has unveiled a watch with a bi-retrograde display.

IWC

pORTUGUESE CHRONOGRApH CLASSIC EDITION “LAUREUS SpORT FOR GOOD FOUNDATION”

This 42mm steel timepiece supports the global work of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation, an organization that exists to give children a chance at a better future. The watch is a 1,000-piece limited-edition chronograph presented in Laureus blue.

115

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

BIG BANG UNICO BI-RETROGRADE CHRONOGRApH

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

AMvOx2 TRANSpONDER

This timepiece is the latest result of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s partnership with Aston Martin. The watch is a hybrid, both mechanical and electronic. The major difference between the 2014 version of this watch and the 2006 model lies in its remote lock/unlock function controlling the doors of an Aston Martin.

LONGINES

CONQUEST CLASSIC

This chronograph is fitted with an L688 column-wheel movement specially developed and produced by ETA exclusively for Longines. The 41mm case is either in steel, steel and rose gold, or rose gold alone. The silvered or black dial features the hours and minutes, with small seconds at 9 o’clock, date and chronograph functions.

LOUIS MOINET

This rose gold timepiece, which represents the planet Mercury, is regulated by an intricately engineered tourbillon and features a splitsecond, column-wheel chronograph viewed through the display back. The planetarium at 6 o’clock contains four precious meteorites, denoting the Earth’s Moon, the sun, Mercury and Mars.

LOUIS vUITTON

TAMBOUR TWIN CHRONO GRAND SpORT

This motor racing-inspired 45.5mm timepiece allows two competitors to be timed separately and upon reaching the finish line, shows the difference in their times. The Lv 175 caliber, with dual-chronograph function, powers this piece. Not one, but two column wheels are required to ensure the movement functions correctly.

ASTRALIS – UNIQUE pIECE – MERCURY

MEISTERSINGER

pALEOGRApH

The paleograph is housed in a 43mm stainless steel case. Requiring one single button integrated in the crown, the functions of stop and zero reset are easily activated. The stopwatch function is controlled by a column-wheel mechanism, and this function can be observed through the sapphire crystal caseback. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

114

watch GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

cOLUMN-whEEL chrONOGraphs

OMEGA

SpEEDMASTER MOONWATCH CO-AxIAL CHRONOGRApH

Featuring a chronograph, date, tachymeter, chronometer, small seconds, and a transparent case back, this 44.25mm steel timepiece features a self-winding chronograph movement with column-wheel mechanism and Co-Axial escapement for greater precision.

OFFICINE pANERAI

Reference as the pAM519, this 100-piece edition is featured in a 45mm rose gold case and powered by a hand-wound panerai Op xxv caliber with a power reserve of 55 hours. Functions include: hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph with two counters and a tachymeter scale.

pATEk pHILIppE

NAUTILUS TRAvEL TIME CHRONOGRApH REF. 5990/1A

This 40.5mm steel timepiece expands the pre-existing collection of complicated Nautilus models with the addition of the Travel Time function. This timepiece is powered by a new caliber, CH 28-520 C FUS.

117

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

RADIOMIR 1940 CHRONOGRApH ORO ROSSO

pIAGET

pOLO FORTYFIvE

powered by a Manufacture piaget 880p pvD ultra-thin automatic mechanical movement, this timepiece features small seconds, chronograph flyback function, date and dual timezone. The piece is housed within a 45mm ADLC-treated titanium case and the black dial features luminescent hour markers.

RICHARD MILLE

50-01 ROMAIN GROSJEAN

This tourbillon timepiece was created for F1 driver Romain Grosjean and is powered by a manual-winding tourbillon chronograph caliber with mechanical G-force sensor. The case is made of carbon NTpT with a choice of caseband in 5N red gold or carbon NTpT. This new carbon material is a Richard Mille exclusive.

ROGER DUBUIS

This 42mm pink gold timepiece features a guilloche dial with pink gold Roman numeral appliques and snailed chronograph counters. The selfwinding RD680 movement includes a double-pusher column-wheel chronograph, central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter, small seconds, hours and minutes.

ROLEx

OYSTER pERpETUAL COSMOGRApH DAYTONA

This famed 40mm model, created in 1963, is designed to meet the timing needs of professional endurance racing drivers. It features a tachymeter bezel and a Rolex automatic Calibre 4130. Its oscillator has a blue Parachrom hairspring, an alloy insensitive to magnetic fields.

HOMMAGE CHRONOGRApH

TAG HEUER

CARRERA MONACO GRAND pRIx SpECIAL EDITION

This special edition timepiece is powered by the in-house Caliber 1887 movement featuring a column wheel. The case measures 43mm and is made in titanium with a sapphire crystal. The black dial features black gold numerals and red accents and the timepiece is presented on a custom “Racer” rubber strap. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

116

watch GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

cOLUMN-whEEL chrONOGraphs

TUDOR

FASTRIDER BLACk SHIELD

This sleek black matte ceramic timepiece measures 42mm and has a fixed matte black ceramic bezel with an engraved tachometric scale. The self-winding Tudor caliber 7753 mechanical chronograph movement powers this piece and has a power reserve of approximately 46 hours.

vACHERON CONSTANTIN

powered by a mechanical, manual-winding chronograph movement, this 42mm pink gold watch features a power reserve of 45 hours with indications including: hours, minutes, small seconds, column-wheel chronograph, 30-minute counter and center chronograph hand.

vOSTOk EUROpE

MRIYA

This is the first watch in the world to use the new SII column wheel NE88 automatic chronograph movement. This watch is a 200-meter diver with a 50mm case, inspired by the world’s largest airplane, the AN-225 Mriya. Mriya is a Ukrainian word that translates as “dream.”

119

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

pATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE CHRONOGRApH

ZENITH

EL pRIMERO STRATOS FLYBACk RAINBOW

This timepiece is a tribute to the Zenith Rainbow model from 1997 and is part of the Zenith military chronograph legacy. The steel case measures 45mm and houses an automatic column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. The dial is black with an original-colored 30-minute counter, and the piece is on a metal bracelet.

VINTAGE COLUMN-WHEEL CHRONOGRAPHS

BY JAMES LAMDIN | pHOTOS: ATOM MOORE

GALLET

MULTICHRON pILOT CHRONOGRApH

One of the greatest joys in vintage collecting is finding something wonderful off the beaten path. Gallet has been around since the early 1400s, manufacturing timing instruments, clocks and wristwatches used by individuals from every walk of life, including kings, presidents, racing drivers, soldiers and pilots – yet it isn’t one of the first brands you’d likely think of when exploring collectable vintage chronographs. Dig a little deeper and you’ll find a rich history of drivers’ and aviators’ chronographs from the mid-20th century onward, including this Multichron pilot from the early 1980s – a great-looking piece and a great value for a valjoux 72-powered chronograph if we’ve ever seen one!

UNIvERSAL GENEvE

GENEvE 38MM “JUMBO” CHRONOGRApH – 1950S

For a defunct brand, Universal Geneve has been getting a lot of attention in the collector market as of late…and for good reason! Its chronograph designs are crisp and stunning, and whether your tastes run to pre-war or the motorsports-inspired dials of the 1970s, chances are they made something you’d wear with pleasure. The pictured example is a rare jumbo-size chronograph from the 1950s, a 38mm behemoth in an era of much smaller cases. This piece features the UG Calibre 130 – a modified version of the valjoux 72.

HEUER

AUTAvIA 2446C GMT

Early execution manual-winding Autavias are rapidly becoming some of the most sought-after models in the vintage Heuer lineup, and those powered by the legendary valjoux 72 even more so. Featuring a diver’s style case, triple-register chronograph functionality, a third hand to display a secondary timezone, and a rotating “pepsi” bezel that would make Rolex owners blush, the 2446C GMT model is simply one cool piece of vintage kitsch.

James Lamdin is the Founder of analog/shift (www.analogshift.com), an online boutique for a curated selection of exceptional vintage wristwatches. He is also a freelance automotive and watch writer based in New York City.

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY WATCH NEW - MARCH YEAR 2015

118

ON THE WRIST ON The WrIST

The 41mm Tudor Black Bay is easy to read, a prequisite of any good dive watch.

TudOR Heritage Black Bay By Jason PiTscH

n 2012 Tudor launched the Heritage Black Bay (ref. 79220r) as a reedition of the original Tudor Submariner that debuted in 1954. Just last year, Tudor launched a new version of that very popular black bay model but with a blue bezel and non-gilt dial, and this is the edition reviewed here. The original Tudor Submariner case and dial clearly inspired the modern re-edition, but a few other Tudor references also played a part in the design. Other inspiration can be found in reference 7924 from 1958, which was the first Tudor Submariner with a big (8 mm) crown, and the Tudor reference 7016/7021 from 1969, which was the first Submariner with the so-called snowflake hands.

121

February - March 2015 INTerNaTIONaL WaTch

Part of the popularity of both the original Tudor Submariner and the recent black bay re-editions can be traced to 1953 when rolex launched the first Submariner followed by the first big crown, both alongside the Tudor versions. at the time, Tudor Submariners used actual rolex cases, crowns and bracelets. The modern Tudor black bay blue certainly owes its case design to that original, but it also combines cues from subsequent historical rolex and Tudor Submariners, resulting in a watch that undoubtedly has the DNa of the original Subs, but then adds a touch of its own modern look.

The case The case is clearly inspired by the first rolex and Tudor Submariners, both of which used the same case. as such, the new case draws from one of the best, as the Submariner is probably the most recognizable sports watch available. The modern Tudor variation of the Submariner, which is no longer officially referred to as the Sub, is slightly larger than the vintage versions– but not by much. It is 41mm in diameter (the original was 37mm) and its thickness is 12.75mm. Its full length is 50.25 mm with a 22mm strap size. The crown measures about 7.95mm, very close to the 7924 from which it is based. The modern Tudor has a different type of crown though. In the past, an authentic rolex steel crown was used whereas the new black bay features a steel Tudor crown with a blue anodized aluminum piece in between the crown and the case and an engraved logo. The new Tudor has no crown guards, which is distinctive of the earliest Submariners. The black bay is a dive watch, so naturally it has a screw-down crown, rotating bezel, solid caseback and is 200-meters water resistant. The bezel is the sixty-click variety with a matte midnight blue insert and diving scale, along with a luminous dot at 12 o’clock. Fully tested, the watch is an ISO 6425 dive watch.

1 2 3 1. Excellent lume 2. Caseband and edges are polished, with satin brushed top 3. Steel crown engraved with Tudor emblem

Jason Pitsch’s watch reviews can be found on his website professionalwatches.com

Dial The dial is matte black with applied round metal surround indexes that are filled with white luminous material. The surrounds are polished to stand out against the black dial and the chapter ring has a white printed minute track. The dial looks virtually the same as the original 7922 except for the hands, which feature the emblematic Snowflake design. Movement Inside there is no rolex in-house movement, of course, but instead you’ll find a top-grade eTa 2824 with perlage on the main plate and bridges. The Tudor-signed rotor is decorated. With this model, I’d like to see an increased power reserve. In a time when Swiss movements are as accurate as ever, and service intervals are longer, issues like power reserve have become increasingly important. That said, this is a watch I found hard to take off, and so my wrist movements kept it well powered. Wearing it For my wrist, the black bay’s case and lugs contoured perfectly. In wearing rolex Submariners, I have always found the proportions to be ideal, and while I would not mind if the black bay was in a 40mm case, the black bay’s contour to my wrist may actually be better than the slightly smaller Submariner. The crown, which I initially thought was going to dig in to my wrist, caused no problems. Its size made it simple to wind and set the watch. by comparison, the Tudor ranger, which launched at the same time as this watch did last year, has a longer crown, which I did find to be bit cumbersome. Straps I thought I would prefer the excellent NaTO strap that comes with the black bay as an extra. but I prefer the leather strap as it slides up and down on the wrist just the way I prefer, as I like to wear it a bit loose. and the clasp, which closes with pressure, again is just the way I like it. I prefer this type of clasp, or a buckle, both of which I find easier to get on and off without pressing a button. Daily Wear The Tudor heritage black bay is just right for the money. For the guy who wants the look of a rolex Submariner but with a unique (and more affordable) example, this watch can certainly become a true daily wear. Since Tudor’s re-launch just a few years ago, this newest model is my favorite and by my account the best wristwatch the brand has delivered thus far. INTerNaTIONaL WaTch February - March 2015

120

INDEPENDENT ATELIER InDePenDenT ATelIer

The Deep Space Tourbillon expresses four dimensions for Halter

BY NOLA MARTIN

While designers of marine chronometers look to the sea, Vianney Halter created his award-winning Deep Space Tourbillon peering into outer space.

123

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

“

TrADITIonAlly, A TourbIllon IS DeVISeD To CounTerACT THe eFFeCTS oF GrAVITy by mounTInG THe eSCAPemenT AnD bAlAnCe In An oSCIllATInG CAGe.”

Vianney Halter

ndependent watchmaker Vianney Halter’s mind is often obsessed with sci-fi novels and films like Star Trek. In fact, these obsessions prompted Halter to design his Deep Space Tourbillon. “When I make a watch I like to make a watch in a context that is completely pure for my feeling,” Halter explains. “It’s why last year I had a different way of thinking, some different origins and some different inspirations,” he adds, regarding the tourbillon’s extra-terrestrial influences. Traditionally, a tourbillon is devised to counteract the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance in an oscillating cage. Halter takes the Deep Space Tourbillon a step beyond the normal limits, much as a science fiction story might, by creating a triple-axis central tourbillon strategically placed above the main plate thus creating an entrancing, geometrical focal point in motion. Within Halter’s design, which was awarded the GPHG “Prix de l’Innovation” in 2013, the innermost cage is actually the tourbillon cage containing the balance wheel. The anchor and the escape wheel complete a full rotation every forty seconds, thus forming the first axis. Positioned perpendicular to the first axis is the second axis housed within an ultra-light structure that rotates every six minutes. The whole

set is then suspended in a cradle that completes one full circle in thirty minutes, forming the third and final axis. The final result creates the Deep Space’s appealing, unsynchronized, movements where each revolution provides an extraordinary view of the tourbillon. The Deep Space Tourbillon expresses four dimensions for Halter. The first three are physical dimensions, including height, length and width, represented by the tourbillon. These are encircled by the fourth, time. The blued steel and curved hands rotate on the outer index ring to indicate the hour and minutes in jumping fashion. Finishing Touches Complementing the unusual dimensions of the tourbillon is a sapphire crystal dome atop a 46mm titanium case. An in-house developed VH 113 movement with a 55-hour power reserve powers this manualwind watch. Although the Deep Space Tourbillon does not resemble its predecessors like the Antiqua, there are links to the past such as the riveted winding crown and the strap lugs for the goat and crocodile leather strap. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

122

PASSIONS PASSIONS

The

Bre g

u et p

olle en c

ction

WORK & LEISURE

is in

its d by spire

watc

h e s.

WritingBY HAND Collecting pens is good for you Chopard

BY NANCY OLSON Superfast

roller

Chop

he new year is upon us and with it often come resolutions that include do-overs from past years and brand-new ones to make or break. Interestingly, there are about a dozen resolutions that annually make it to most of our lists, with the old standbys of “losing weight” and “getting fit” at the top. A bit farther down the list is “staying in touch with friends and family” and “learning to be less stressed.” From personal experience, there’s one item that can help you to do both, while satisfying that penchant for collecting: a quality pen. It seems the mere action of writing by hand unleashes something powerful in our brains not easily accessed in any other way. High-tech magnetic resonance imaging has even demonstrated that low-tech writing by hand increases neural activity in certain sections of the brain, bringing a relaxation response much like meditation. Handwritten letters, too, have a profound effect on one’s brain and psyche—whether you’re the writer or the recipient. Who can argue the

125

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

ppy D ard Ha

iamon

d rolle

abiding qualities of a handwritten note to stay in touch with family, friends and lovers? Consider the letters of John and Abigail Adams or Robert and Elizabeth Browning, all of which have captured our imaginations for decades. Just as important are the quotidian missives that will most likely neither be saved for posterity nor history’s sake. If you haven’t experienced the particular excitement of finding something handwritten in your mailbox, you don’t know what you’re missing. Pens as Collectibles Some manufacturers recognized for their wonderful watch collections also offer luxury pens, no doubt because the audience for both is quite similar. But if examined further, pens and watches also share several characteristics: they’re both collectible, they’re handcrafted, and intrinsically valuable materials are used to make them. In addition, they appeal to those of us who wouldn’t leave home without our smart phones yet are beguiled by the artisanal craftsmanship required to produce a smallish mechanical marvel.

“

IF YOU HAVEN’T EXPERIENCED THE PARTICULAR EXCITEMENT OF FINDING SOMETHING HANDWRITTEN IN YOUR MAILBOX, YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU’RE MISSING.”

Montblanc Great Characters John F. Kennedy Special Edition

Jaquet Droz

Chopard Exceptional objects have been created to enrich Chopard’s accessories and lifestyle range. Each is produced with the same attention to quality and excellence as the company’s watches and jewellery – starting with the materials. In the masculine universe, a “Superfast” rollerball pen in matt black lacquer, on which both the inscription “Classic Racing” and the red steering wheel on the cap pay tribute to a world close to Chopard’s heart. Ladies are accompanied by a flurry of precious details when they pick up their pens. The “Happy Diamonds” rollerball in black resin offers finishes in rose gold and a touch of amethyst on the cap. A mobile jewel waltzing inside a heart perfects the curves of this precious pen. Montblanc Montblanc wrote the book on collectible pens when it brought the concept of limited edition writing instruments to the fore in the early 1990s. Since then, it has introduced a variety of limited or annual editions, each of which has garnered the attention of pen and art collectors. With every Great Characters Edition, Montblanc commemorates individuals who have broken new ground in the fields of culture, politics, science or the arts. The brand-new John F. Kennedy Edition pays tribute to the many facets of JFK, and a variety of motifs on the cap and barrel of the 1917 Limited Edition recall various facets of his life. Among many other symbolic gestures, the rope pattern under the lacquer on the cap and barrel conjures Kennedy’s passion for sailing. The pen comes in three versions: a Special Edition (shown), a 1917 Limited Edition, and a Limited Edition 83. Hermès With its 177-year-old roots in horse harnesses, Hermès has grown up to be a multi-faceted luxury brand that today offers leather goods, fragrances, serious watches and the new Nautilus pen collection. Designed by Marc Newson, the Australian industrial designer who has also designed watches for Ikepod and clocks for Jaeger-LeCoultre, the stainless steel and aluminum capless fountain pen or ballpoint pen comes in ebony, carbon blue and Hermès red. The pen’s only embellishment is a subtle Hermès logo on its underside, which is flat. I find this an interesting and

Hermès

functional Newson-esque design feature, since it means the pen won’t roll off a desk and will even work as a light paperweight. Jaquet Droz Following the tradition of writing as featured in the magic of its automata and perpetuated by the Time Writing Machine and the Signing Machine (both presented at Baselworld), Jaquet Droz has recently introduced a pen in varying styles. One is a palladium- or red gold-plated and black resin pen, while the other is a sophisticated blend of ivory resin and 18-karat red gold plate. These retractable ballpoints each feature the famed Jaquet Droz twin stars in 18-karat white or red gold to complement each model. Matching cufflinks are also available. Breguet As a tribute to the many great writers—like Balzac, Stendhal, Pushkin and Dumas—who mentioned Breguet in their works, the company introduced its first pen collection over ten years ago. The range includes a sterling silver fountain pen, a rollerball pen, and a ballpoint that converts into a mechanical pencil. The guilloche design on the metal body is typical of Breguet watches as is the clip, which recalls classic Breguet hands. The blue resin accents are a perfect “Breguet blue.” All the pens are available at Breguet boutiques, and a three-pen set, embellished with diamonds, has recently been added to the range. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

124

MARKET MARKET

UPDATES DEBUTS

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot In the first of a series of watches celebrating Zenith’s 150th anniversary in 2015, this new model shows off the manufacturer’s various technological and artistic skills. The most visible is the constant force fusée and chain transmission at the top of the dial. Two bridges screwed to the mainplate support the arbors of the fusée and barrel, giving the watch the look of a late nineteenth century architectural accomplishment. The Zenith high-frequency manual-wind El Primero 4810 movement is seen on the lower right-hand side of the dial with a power reserve display and the inscriptions “Force constante” and “High frequency.” 150 will be made.

127

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Alpina Alpiner Chronograph Inspired by an Alpiner automatic model from the 1950s. Case: 41.5mm stainless steel, Engraved case-back with Alpina’s Alpine sunrise symbol Movement: Automatic chronograph Dial: Black sunray dial with matte outer ring, applied nickel Arabic numerals and indexes, luminous dots Strap: Black leather leather strap with off-white stiches. Also available on metal bracelet Why Buy? Essential timepiece for the gentleman “alpinist” who values understated elegance.

Mühle-Glashütte Teutonia III Handaufzug Reminiscent of traditional Mühle pocket watches from the outside as well as from the inside. Case: 42mm brushed/polished stainless steel with grooved bezel. Movement: MU9412, first hand-wound model from company Dial: White. Minute track with Arabic numerals. Blued hands. Strap: Blue leather Why Buy? Purist dial and case design. Dial recalls the perfect shape of traditional Glashütte pocket watches.

Ulysse Nardin Boutique exclusive Marine Chronometer Series For good luck in Las Vegas, with three different dial options. Case: 45mm steel with a layer made from amorphous carbon Movement: In house automatic UN-118 with anchor escapement in DiamonSil Dial: Black with red accents Strap: Rubber with coated titanium details Why Buy? Boutique exclusive limited to 99 pieces.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

126

MARKET MARKET

Waltham Aeronaval ETC Elapsed Time Chronograph reinvents historic Waltham Type-A13a aeronautical clocks. Case: 47mm titanium black PVD Movement: Automatic Dubois Dépraz movement Dial: Black multi-level with embossed W pattern Strap: Rubber Why Buy? Contemporary Black Matter angular design with high-tech components with case in titanium and all black PVD. Other models: Eclipse in titanium with two tone black PVD; Pure, with all titanum.

Breva Génie 03 Génie 03, the world’s first-ever wristwatch with a functional speedometer. Prior to the appearance of this remarkable timepiece, watches could only calculate speed by using an engraved scale marked in miles or kilometers per hour, using the sweep second hand or chronograph functions to calculate the speed against a measured mile or kilometer. While this would satisfy certain requirements, it was not a “real-time” indication with constant refreshing. Génie 03 is fitted with a patented “instant speed” scientific measurement mechanism, with a proprietary extrusion mechanism that creates a unique look. When extended to indicate the speed, it stands 6mm proud of the watch itself. Within the Titanium G5 extrusion mechanism, comprised of 27 components, are hemispherical Robinson cups, also in titanium, in the manner of an anemometer.

Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi “Year of the Goat” Chopard once again honours Asian traditions, as the ancestral Japanese art of Urushi is enlisted in creating an L.U.C XP inspired by the “Year of the Goat” theme. The most artistic of the Chinese zodiac signs provides an ideal subject for a refined dial, the face of a watch driven by an ultra-thin L.U.C movement. The quintessence of Urushi, the ancestral Japanese lacquerwork, combines with the ultimate degree of Swiss horological refinement giving rise to the new L.U.C XP Urushi “Year of the Goat”. Chopard has now established a tradition of celebrating each new cycle of the Chinese calendar. The Year of the Wood Goat begins on February 19th 2015 and will end on February 7th 2016.

129

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Ulysse Nardin “Year of the Goat” Ulysse Nardin celebrates its individualistic and artistic character with the new Classico Goat timepiece, an enamel champlevé creation. One of the world’s only watchmakers dedicated to this rare, centuries-old art, Ulysse Nardin presents a lifelike depiction of the goat, employing the intricate champlevé method. In this practice, cells are carved with a chisel directly on the watch dial and filled with enamel; the color palette is generated from different metallic oxides. The piece is then fired until the enamel melts. The result is a realistic, picturesque scene that is only made possible by the hands of masters. A limited-edition series, the Classico Goat features the self-winding, COSC-certified UN-815 movement, visible through its sapphire crystal exhibition window located on the case back. It has a power reserve of 42 hours.

MB&F LM1 Platinum “Legacy Machines” at MB&F are inspired by the brand’s glorious Horological ancestors; this explains the classic choice of cases in 18K red and white gold for our LM1 and LM101 series. When MB&F launched Legacy Machine No.2 about a year ago, they logically presented red and white gold versions – but also a very special limited edition : the LM2 Platinum, recognisable by a striking blue face. It turns out the LM2 Platinum quickly became the distinctive, unmistakable star of the series. But that’s not the end of that inimitable blue: MB&F present today the LM1 Platinum. Limited to only 33 pieces, crafted in platinum 950, its blue face provides a stunning backdrop for the signature flying balance wheel, fully independent dual time zones and unique vertical power reserve indicator.

Oscar de la Renta and Shinola The Lattice Oscar de la Renta partners with Shinola. Case: 36mm polished gold PVD-plated case Movement: Ronda quartz Dial: Mother-of-pearl Strap: Blue alligator leather Why Buy? Limited edition of 1,000 pieces; comes with hardcover book created for the project.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

128

MARKET MARKET

Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Large Date, Moon-Phases For the first time, this collection fully reveals the complexity of its movement thanks to a transparent dial carved in sapphire. This offers the wearer a mechanical spectacle of gears, display disks, screws, levers and wheels. The watch’s in-house manufactured movement fits exactly within the case. The large jumping date is rapidly set through the crown while the moonphases are controlled by a side corrector discreetly merged into the caseband. Available in either a stainless steel or pink gold version with case measuring 36.10mm x 35.25mm.

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk Black The all-black edition of the model designed by David Zanetta to serve “beauty through the readability and functionality.” Case: 43mm sandblasted anthracite zirconium with short floating lugs. Back is solid, also in sandblasted anthracite zirconium with a window revealing the balance wheel. Movement: In house caliber S233 self-winding with six-day power reserve. Self-regulating twin barrel, silicon/white gold balance, titanium/platinum oscillating weight, silicon escape-wheel. Dial: Black sunray dial with matte outer ring, applied nickel numerals and indexes, luminous dots. Strap: Alligator leather with pin buckle. Why Buy? Innovative movement and case design with numerous patents.

Raymond Weil Maestro Limited Edition A timepiece made in tribute Raymond Weil, this chronograph is presented in an olive tree wood box. Case: 45mm rose gold with screwed down sapphire crystal back. Movement: COSC-certified Swiss-made chronometer, chronograph with RW monogrammed rotor. Dial: 18-karat rose gold fluted with RW monogram, silver inscription, tachymeter, gold applied indexes. Strap: Genuine brown alligator, folding clasp with double-push security system. Why Buy? The chronograph is a 100-piece numbered limited edition tribute.

131

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Louis Moinet Vertalor Tourbillon This watch is a modern version of a design is inspired by a Julius Caesar clock made by Louis Moinet in 1825. Case: 47mm pink gold or grey gold. Movement: Manual-wind in-house one-minute tourbillon movement with three-day power reserve. Dial: Decorated with Côtes du Jura finish, 18-karat gold three-armed bridge, fragment of meteorite in center, dew drop hands with luminous star-shaped second hand. Strap: Louisiana alligator leather, hand-sewn. Gold clasp. Why Buy? Only twenty-eight pieces made for each gold color.

Visconti Scuba Abyssus 3000 A deep diver (3000 meters of water resistance) made in either titanium, steel or bronze. Case: 45mm steel, rotating bezel with engraved time scale and microdot in luminescent material at 12 o’clock. External aluminum bronze saw-tooth and sliding rotation locking system at 4 o’clock. Automatic helium escape valve. Movement: Swiss Made Soprod automatic, soignée finish, rotor with engraved Visconti logo. Power reserve is 42 hours. Dial: Black/blue with shiny blue detailing, luminescent indexes in two colours, minutes scale with bars on inclined ring. Hands exclusive to Visconti. Luminescent coating and orange varnish power reserve hand.

Backes & Strauss Royal Ashoka Empress Design inspired by Ashoka the Great, benevolent ruler of India’s Maurya dynasty during the third century BC. Total diamond weight is 26.21 carats Case: 18-karat 21mm x 16mm white gold case set with 130 Ideal Cut diamonds (1.62 carats.) Movement: Quartz. Dial: Blue/black mother-of-pearl with diamond crown. Strap: Jewelry bracelet in white gold set with 92 Ashoka diamonds. Why Buy? With 62 displayed facets and rounded corners, the each Ashoka-cut diamond is a glittering work of art.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

130

MARKET MARKET

VALENTINES’ LUXURY GIFT GUIDE

Happy Sport Medium Automatic

L ve LUXURY Happy Diamonds

THIS VALENTINE’S

On Valentine’s Day, happy are those who successfully touch their loved one’s heart with a flaming Chopard arrow of love! As the season of warm embraces and tender vows rolls around, the jeweller delights in playing Cupid and serving as a messenger of the most beautiful declarations of love.

Haute Joaillerie

Happy Diamonds Inherently romantic by nature, Chopard has made the heart its unmistakable symbol that is once again in the spotlight with this discreetly elegant Happy Diamonds set composed of a pendant necklace, a ring and matching ear studs. Sparkling diamonds dance around white gold hearts adorned with claw-set diamonds. This infinitely graceful and sentimental gift is an ideal means of confessing or reaffirming love. Happy Sport Medium Automatic With the Happy Sport Medium Automatic on the wrist, there’s no chance of being late for the next dinner for two. This rose gold model from Chopard’s iconic watch line embodies a blend of refinement, femininity and high precision. The radiance of the diamond-set bezel and the seven moving diamonds on the dial is cleverly enhanced by the flaming burgundy shade of its alligator leather strap. Haute Joaillerie Adorned with hearts and slender arabesques in rose gold, sprinkled with diamonds and pear-cut amethyst cabochons, this stunning pendant necklace and its matching ear pendants look like something straight out of A Thousand and One Nights. Like a precious talisman endowed with the secret power of ensuring lasting love, this delicately crafted jewellery set will delight many a modern-day Scheherazade. And for gentlemen… Each year, the Mille Miglia welcomes a new model. Devotees of fine sporty mechanical watches will be thrilled by the Mille Miglia 2014 edition with its vintage detail and its gentleman-driver personality. It proudly flies the colours of Italy with a white dial bearing a tachometric scale, red hands and a green minute circle. Equipped with a self-winding COSC-certified chronograph movement, the Mille Miglia 2014 cuts an impressive figure, as much for its rigorously accurate mechanism as for its Italianstyle aesthetic. Made of stainless steel, this watch may be teamed with a topstitched Barenia calfskin strap or with the classic rubber strap embossed with the Dunlop racing-tyre motif. Complementing this modern and sophisticated timepiece are stainless steel Mille Miglia cufflinks, topped by a slender black rubber ring trimmed with red and also featuring the famous Dunlop tread that has become the signature of the Mille Miglia universe.

133

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Mille Miglia

Blancpain Saint Valentine’s Day 2015 Saint Valentine’s Day is a highlight in Blancpain’s calendar, offering an opportunity to unveil a new model designed especially for the occasion. This year, the brand is once again celebrating the lovers’ day through a limited-edition women’s watch with just 14 pieces. Blancpain has once again drawn on all its technical know-how to create an esthetic feminine mechanical watch. The new Saint Valentine’s 2015 model has a mother-of-pearl dial decorated with a majestic inlaid rose, a technique which demonstrate the fine craftsmanship of the master watchmakers. The dial was meticulously worked, and each petal delicately sculpted into the white mother-of-pearl. The resulting rose in relief was then cut and dyed before being assembled on the dial. The different thicknesses of mother-of-pearl allow the color to show through, creating a subtle palette of pink shades. The 36.8 mm diameter white-gold case is lit up with 121 diamonds. The two intertwined rows of different-sized stones are reminiscent of the brand’s emblematic double-stepped bezel, while the setting of the horn-shaped lugs and the crown complete the ensemble. At the heart of this original two-hand model is an off-center hour movement, the signature complication of the Women collection. On the back of the watch, the pink mother-of-pearl inlaid on the oscillating weight echoes the dial’s design. This limited edition to 14 engraved and numbered pieces is adorned with a white ostrich leather strap.

In honour of Valentine’s day, Messika Paris has created the perfect wishlist for today’s modern woman showcasing some of its most loved collections for the bold woman who knows how to make a statement. Featuring pieces from the iconic Queen V, Angel and Amazone collections, Messika’s range of distinctive creations are truly dazzling. True to the essence of Messika, each jewel is romantically crafted with the finest materials and diamonds, combining the brand’s unique expertise and technical know-how to create the most innovative jewellery.

MESSIKA PARIS INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

132

eVenTs EVENTS

G E N E VA

GRAN PRIX WINNERS

‘AIGUILLE D’OR’ GRAND PRIZE BREGUET

Classique Chronométrie

STRIKING WATCH PRIZE HUBLOT

Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater

135

REVIVAL WATCH PRIZE OMEGA

ach year the jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) awards fine watches and their makers in an annual salute to excellence in horology. The 2014 jury comprised members from a diverse background that included watch historians, journalists, designers and industry experts, and it was led by Aurel Bacs. At the October ceremony in Geneva the jury handed out sixteen prizes. The Aiguille d’Or (‘golden hand,’ or grand prize) distinction was awarded to Breguet for its Classic Chronométrie.

LADIES’ WATCH PRIZE

LADIES’ COMPLICATIONS WATCH PRIZE

BLANCPAIN

CHRISTOPHE CLARET

Speedmaster “Dark Side Of The Moon”

Women Off-centered Hour

MEN’S WATCH PRIZE

TOURBILLON WATCH PRIZE

URBAN JÜRGENSEN & SØNNER

GRÖNEFELD

Central Second

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Parallax Tourbillon

Margot

CALENDAR WATCH PRIZE A. LANGE & SÖHNE

Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”

SPECIAL JURY PRIZE Walter Lange

PUBLIC PRIZE

SPORTS WATCH PRIZE

BREGUET

ZENITH

Classique Dame

SEIKO

El Primero Lightweight

CHRONOGRAPH WATCH PRIZE

JEWELRY WATCH PRIZE

DE BETHUNE

BVLGARI

DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon

‘PETITE AIGUILLE’ WATCH PRIZE

Diva High Jewellery Emeralds

Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT

MECHANICAL EXCEPTION WATCH PRIZE INNOVATION WATCH PRIZE URWERK EMC

ARTISTIC CRAFTS WATCH PRIZE VOUTILAINEN Hisui

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

134

news NEWS

KURT KLAUS poses with IWC’s Schaffhausen headquarters.Above left is one of his sketches for the 1985 IWC Da Vinci Perpetual calendar.

IWC Celebrates Kurt Klaus’ 80th birthday Legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus turned eighty at the end of 2014, and IWC marked the occasion recalling his many contributions to the firm and to watchmaking history. Kurt klaus, who invented and designed IWC’s 1985 autonomous perpetual calendar, made significant improvements to a complication that over the decades had made its way from large clocks to pocket watches and, finally, to wristwatches. He made the perpetual calendar suitable for everyday use. For the first time ever, the synchronization of the calendar indicators, including an extremely accurate moonphase display, was complemented by a four-digit year display. To the astonishment of the watchmaking world, the calendar was constructed so that it would go on functioning correctly for more than 500 years. Klaus grew up in St. Gallen, Switzerland, and from 1951 spent four years at the watchmaking school in Solothurn. After successfully concluding his training, he completed his military service in several stages and worked at Eterna in Grenchen before setting his sights on finding a permanent job in 1956. He made IWC’s first Grande Complication in 1990. The Il Destriero Scafusia came three years later. Some may recall that Klaus also took an active role in the reconstruction of A. Lange & Söhne in Glashütte in the early 1990s. At IWC, he was a father figure who led small groups to work on new IWC developments. These include the split-seconds mechanism (1992), the world time module (1998), the mechanical depth gauge for the GST Deep One (1999), the in-house 5000 caliber with Pellaton winding (2000) and adapting his own calibre to the much larger Portugieser Perpetual Calendar (2003). Even after his official retirement at sixty-five, he continued to give a significantly larger design department the benefit of his experience for another decade. In 2007, IWC CEO Georges Kern expressed the appreciation felt for Klaus by unveiling the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Edition Kurt Klaus, featuring the technology of the original model and his portrait on the reverse side. Klaus subsequently contributed to the development of the most advanced successor yet to the watch that featured his original calendar/chronograph movement: the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, which was unveiled in 2009 and incorporated many of his ideas. “IWC Schaffhausen can be proud to have employees like Kurt Klaus,” notes Kern. “Without their watchmaking expertise, their willingness to take on the biggest challenges and never give up, it would not be possible for us to take a tradition founded in 1868 into the future. His exemplary commitment to the company is an inspiration to all of us at IWC, and for that we are grateful.”

137

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid (left) shows the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst. Above is the watch’s dial as seen up close.

A. Lange & Söhne celebrates twenty years of Lange 1 A. Lange & Söhne in October marked twenty years since it debuted its first new modern-era watch, the Lange 1, by debuting a special one-minute tourbillon with stop seconds. Called Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, the limited edition (of twenty) model features a black enamel dial and artisanal finishes enclosed by a 38.5-millimeter artisancrafted platinum case. A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid and Director of Product Development Anthony de Haas presented the new timepiece in Dresden on October 24, exactly twenty years after the first Lange 1 and three additional collections were unveiled. Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s greatgrandson Walter Lange had re-launched A. Lange & Söhne only four years earlier. At the event, Schmid and Lange bestowed the F. A. Lange Watchmaking Excellence Award upon Torsti Laine from Finland. The watchmaking student from the Finnish School of Watchmaking received a 10,000 euros prize for his design of a moonphase display that also emulates the earth phases from the moon’s perspective. The award “emphasizes the importance of sustainable funding of watchmaker trainings for the future of fine-watchmaking,” according to Lange. In addition, Schmid donated 20,000 euros to a local hospital and a public charity that supports kids and adolescents with cancer being treated there.

Breitling celebrates Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association Nomos Glashütte CEO Wins Entrepreneur Award The auditing and consultancy firm Ernst & Young in November awarded Uwe Ahrendt, Chief Executive of Nomos Glashütte, the title of “Entrepreneur of the Year 2014” in the consumer goods category. Ahrendt, who is a toolmaker, engineer and businessman, attributes his win to exceptional watchmaking expertise and an outstanding team. He thanked “almost 200 entrepreneurs who have been working on new innovations for a long time – the Nomos employees themselves.”

Vogard Sells its World Timer Patent to IWC Vogard founder Michael Vogt in November sold his company’s world timer patents and related technology to IWC for an undisclosed sum. As a result, Vogard, the Swiss watch company he founded in 2002, ceased the manufacturing and sales of the Vogard Timezoner at the end of 2014. The patented system of Vogard, developed with watchmaker Thomas Prescher and others, offers a timezone adjustment with a quick twist of the bezel rather than via a pusher, and also allows an unusually clear indication of daylight savings time. The Timezoner’s patented technology, activated via a lever on the side of the case, links the watch’s bezel and crown, which in turn operate specialized gearing to the hour hands. “As a niche manufacturer and watch atelier, we do not have the financial and structural resources to fully exploit the potential of the Timezoner technology,” Vogt explains in a press release. “I am very pleased that we found one of the leading brands with the power to further develop the Timezoner and to establish it on a worldwide level.” Vogard will continue to offer after-sales services for all Vogard watches sold and will continue to supply its customers with spare parts.

Breitling in October celebrated the 75th anniversary of the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association - the largest, most influential general aviation association in the world.The La Chaux-de-Fonds-based manufacture and Frederick, Maryland-headquartered AOPA are entwined in aviation via Breitling’s legendary Navitimer. First released between 1952 and 1954, the Navitimer was adopted by AOPA as its “official watch” in 1954. Available as a special edition for association members, the AOPA Navitimer - which featured the organization’s winged-logo atop its dial - helped popularize the famed slide-rule chronograph and inspired Breitling’s own winged-B logo. Breitling marketing director Lisa Roman presented a new Navitimer to AOPA members gathered from across the country for the celebration and AOPA fly-in. The special edition Navitimer AOPA 75th Anniversary commemorates the original timepiece complete with AOPA wings on the dial and caseback. Available as a limited edition to AOPA members, the caseback can also be engraved with the owner’s name and membership number. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the commemorative chronograph will go to the Breitling Aviation Scholarship Fund for AOPA to help create the next generation of pilots. For more, visit www.aopa.org/navitimer. – By Jan Tegler

Frederique Constant raises funds for Charities At the fifth annual Global Gift Gala in London this past November, actress Eva Longoria and singer Ricky Martin (left) joined Frederique Constant to raise more than $471,000 for The Eva Longoria Foundation – helping women and children in the Latino community through education and entrepreneurship; the Ricky Martin Foundation, whose mission is to stop human trafficking in minors; and The Global Gift Foundation, which supports vulnerable women and children across the globe. Attendees of the evening, supported by Frederique Constant, also included Victoria Beckham, who received an award for her dedication towards charitable work. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

136

news NEWS

Rihanna wearing Chopard

Perrelet unveils UAE Exclusive Edition Turbine XL

Last December, singer Rihanna hosted and performed at her Clara Lionel Foundation’s first annual Diamond Ball and dazzled the red carpet in jewels by famed Swiss jewelry and timepiece house, Chopard. For the Red Carpet, Rihanna selected to wear Chopard’s rubellite and diamond necklace from the “Red Carpet” collection featuring a 123.24-carat pear shaped rubellite and 65.24-carats of diamonds set in platinum, diamond earrings from the “High Jewelry” collection featuring 1.41-carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold, a ruby bracelet from the “Red Carpet” collection featuring 20.38-carats of rubies set in 18K rose gold, a rubellite and ruby ring from the “Red Carpet” collection featuring one 49.64-carat rubellite, 3.20-carats of rubies, and 1.27-carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold, a tanzanite and rubellite ring from the “Precious Temptations” collection featuring one 7.42-carat tanzanite, one 5.88-carat rubellite, and 1.70-carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold, a diamond ring from the “High Jewelry” collection featuring 12.41-carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold, and a diamond ring from the “High Jewelry” collection featuring 2.16-carats of diamonds set in 18K white gold.

Luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Perrelet, have launched recently an exclusive UAE Limited Edition Turbine XL. Admirably reflecting both the horological expertise and the artistic skills cultivated by Perrelet, the Turbine XL is driven by the self-winding P-331 movement entirely developed and produced in-house at the brand’s production sites and can be admired through a transparent sapphire case back. The UAE limited edition Turbine XL from Perrelet is available only in 43 pieces through Al-Sayegh Jewellery in Abu Dhabi exclusively. The watch dial subtly displays the colours of the national flag which become visible as the turbine fitted with 12 titanium blades, when set into motion, provides tantalizing glimpses of the spectacular red, green, white and black under-dial. The hour-markers on the black inner bezel ring accentuate the optical effect and contribute to the mesmeric fascination of this model.

Mohammed Rasool Khoory & Sons and Rolex sponsor golf in Abu Dhabi

Yussef Mohammed Rasool Khoory with HH Sheikh Nahyan Bin Zayed Al Nahyan (above) and handing the Rolex Award to the French winner Stal (right).

Rolex and its exclusive representative in Abu Dhabi, Mohammed Rasool Khoory & Sons, sponsored an International golf Championship that featured the most famous golf players in the world. The championship attracted a large crowd of golf fans from all over the Emirates and abroad to the capital Abu Dhabi, who followed the exciting events that ended with the French golf player Stal clinching his first title ever, receiving his trophy from His Highness Sheikh Nahyan Bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the President of the Abu Dhabi Sports Council, while Yussef Mohammed

139

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Rasool Khoory, Executive Chairman of Mohammed Rasool Khoory & Sons Group of Companies, rewarded Stal with his precious Rolex Award watch prize. In a close conversation between His Highness Sheikh Nahyan bin Zayed Al Nahyan and Yussef Mohammed Rasool Khoory, Khoory confirmed the keenness of Mohammed Rasool Khoory & Sons Group to promote sports, cultural, social and diplomatic events in the capital Abu Dhabi.

news NEWS

Blancpain President and CEO Marc A. Hayek. At right is the new Blancpain Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, showing its engraved caseback.

Blancpain Unveils Ocean Commitment Blancpain President and CEO Marc A. Hayek (above) welcomed dignitaries, friends and partners of the brand to Cap d’Antibes in the south of France last October for an evening devoted to presenting Blancpain’s Ocean Commitment and its new Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback. Blancpain has for years been crusading to preserve and protect the world’s oceans and also increase public awareness through ocean exploration. Chief among its beneficiaries: the National Geographic Society’s Pristine Seas Expeditions, directed by Dr. Enric Sala, and the Gombessa Project of Laurent Ballesta. Other Blancpain partnerships include the Hans Hass Fifty Fathoms Award, famed free diver Gianluca Genoni, The Economist’s World Ocean Summit, as well as

Skier Tina Maze New Alpina Ambassador Double Olympic ski medalist Tina Maze is the newest ambassador for Alpina watches and will be seen wearing Alpina’s new Comtesse ladies collection. With two Olympic gold medals at the last Winter Olympic Games in Sochi, and two world championship gold medals, Maze holds the absolute record of 2,414 points in one season in the Alpine Skiing World Cup and is considered one of the world’s best female alpine skiers.“Tina Maze is an extraordinary athlete with an amazing character that reflects our company’s attitude,” notes Guido Benedini, Alpina CEO. “She is an example for any woman who wants to achieve something in life and sports, and we are extremely proud to have her with us.”

141

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

some of the most renowned underwater photographers. The brand has unified this multi-year financial support of oceanic environmental causes under the title “Blancpain Ocean Commitment.” To call further attention to ocean preservation, Blancpain unveiled the first piece in a series of limited-edition diving watches. Limited to 250 pieces, the Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback features Blancpain’s latest in-house movement (with highspeed escapement) and a special gray ceramic case, blue dial and bezel. Blancpain has connected the new special limited edition to its global Ocean Commitment by making a charitable contribution in the amount of 1,000 euros for each watch in the limited series. In addition, Blancpain unveiled a new dedicated web site called Blancpain-OceanCommitment.com.

Ulysse Nardin unveils Perpetual Calendar exclusive boutique edition Two decades ago Ulysse Nardin surprised the world with the Perpetual Calendar. Since, the iconic original and its ensuing editions have become collectors’ favorites. The Ulysse Nardin GMT+ Perpetual was another revolutionary first for the manufacture, and to this day, remains the first perpetual calendar to allow forwards and backwards adjustment over one single crown. Now, Ulysse Nardin introduces the Perpetual timepiece exclusively for its mono-brand boutiques. Featuring an elegant blue dial, and armed with the UN-32 caliber, it is one of Ulysse Nardin’s most attractive watches, as well as advanced perpetual calendars ever made.

Glashütte Original Phillips launches Watch Department, leads Road Show Celebrates ‘Only Watch’ Auction its Latest Chronograph As part of a world tour to celebrate the launch of its most recent chronograph, Glashütte Original in November set up an interactive exhibition in New York and Chicago displaying the company’s collection of new and vintage Glashüttemanufactured watches. Guests were invited, at both U.S. stops on the world tour, to travel through time and learn about the brand’s heritage and the Glashütte tradition of chronograph production. At the New York stop, high in the Sky Room of the New Museum, Glashütte Original vice president of sales Dieter Pachner and U.S. brand manager Steve Cohen lead guests to showcases filled with the Germanmade chronographs. The star of the show, however, was the firm’s own Caliber 37 chronograph movement, developed from the ground up and made in the firm’s own manufactory. The automatic movement debuts in the Senator Chronograph Panorama Date and the sporty Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. Both lines feature a well-balanced combination of functions in a column wheel, integrated chronograph mechanism. A young watchmaker from Glashütte was on site doing demonstrating the new caliber’s assembly process.

London-based auctioneer Phillips is developing a watch department dedicated exclusively to high-end collectible models. The department, announced in November, is based in Geneva and led by former Christie’s watch department chief Aurel Bacs and Livia Russo, partners in Bacs & Russo, and also includes Nathalie Monbaron and Virginie Liatard in Geneva. Collector and International Watch contributor Paul Boutros is the new venture’s International Strategy Manager and will oversee formation of the New York office. Phillip’s announced several initiatives in conjunction with its new Watch Department. In May Phillips will begin its watch auction calendar with two inaugural evening sales in Geneva. The first of the two auctions will be a high profile evening sale dedicated to the Rolex Day-Date. Phillips will partner with Pucci Papaleo, one of world’s best-known Rolex scholars. The inaugural watch auctions will take place in Geneva on May 9 and May 10. In addition, Phillips, Bacs and Russo are now co-organizing the biennial charity auction Only Watch with Association Monégasque Contre les Myopathies and the Monaco Yacht Show. The sixth edition of the charity auction of unique timepieces, sold for the benefit of research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy, will take place in November 2015 in Geneva. Before the auction, there will be a promotional world tour, starting in Monaco from September 23 to 26, continuing with stops in Europe, the United States and Asia. Some forty brands have already confirmed their participation in Only Watch 2015. The participants’ list will be published soon.

ACADEMY Georges Favre-Jacot: 150 years is a milestone worth celebrating

Breguet adds two pocket watches to its Historic Collection

In 1865, Georges Favre-Jacot, a youthful native of the village barely 22 years of age, founded his watch factory. To mark Zenith’s 150th anniversary, the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot offers a magnificent compendium of the multiple skills exercised within the Manufacture. More than a mere tribute, this Haute Horlogerie model testifies to a profound respect for the spirit of the founder without whom nothing would have ever have taken shape. On the technical side, the Academy Georges Favre-Jacot houses a high-frequency hand-wound El Primero 4810 movement. Occupying the entire lower right-hand side of the dial, the power-reserve display between 4 and 5 o’clock topped by the inscriptions “Force constante” and “High frequency”, gives an immediate indication of the movement’s high quality. To its left, the small seconds subdial between 7 and 8 o’clock bears the logo of the Manufacture with the guiding star. 150 years of creations infused with a sense of daring and an enterprising spirit deserve a celebration! 2015 will be a festive year brimming with events that will be announced in due course. Watch this space…

Breguet President and CEO Marc A. Hayek acquired at the November 10 Christie’s auction in Geneva two Breguet historic gold pocket watches to add to his company’s museum collection. One model was a rare quarter repeating watch equipped with the first free escapement with natural lift ever made by Breguet (No. 1135). The second was a medium-sized souscription watch bearing the number 1576. It was originally sold on September 8th, 1809, to Breguet’s agent in St. Petersburg. It indicates the hours and minutes using a single hand and is distinguished by its simple and elegant design. Breguet purchased the pair for the total price of 519,000 Swiss francs ($538,000), with No. 1135 selling for more than $500,000. According to Breguet, the No. 1135 is an important discovery. The watch took nearly four years to make and it is characterized by its “échappement naturel,” the first example of Breguet’s free escapement. Like the detent escapement, it did not require oil on the impulse surfaces and was Breguet’s ultimate solution to the problem of a free escapement with natural lift. Breguet produced only thirty watches and clocks incorporating this system, and its production was quickly abandoned due to the costly development work and difficulty of production. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

140

news NEWS

Mohi-Din Bin Hendi (4th from right) opening the boutique with Christophe Chorao to his right and Patrik Hoffmann (3rd from left)

Ulysse Nardin opens its largest boutique in the world in the Dubai Mall Ulysse Nardin and its retail partner in Dubai, Bin Hendi Enterprises marked a new chapter as they officially opened the brand’s largest boutique in the world at the Dubai Mall. Partners for over two decades, Bin Hendi Enterprises and Ulysse Nardin inaugurated the new boutique in the presence Mohi-Din Bin Hendi, President of Bin Hendi Enterprises, and Patrik P. Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin, who officiated the milestone event. Spanning 240 sqm., the launch of Ulysse Nardin’s biggest boutique was held subsequent to the brand setting up its regional office in Dubai, headed by the brand’s Regional Managing Director, Christophe Chorao. Another highlight heralding the launch was the exhibition held between the 28th and 31st of January at the Dubai Mall wherein Ulysse Nardin’s exceptional musical marvel, the ‘Vivaldi’ watch was showcased in a first preview before it makes its official debut at forthcoming watch fair, Basel World 2015 in March. Speaking out on the occasion, Patrik Hoffmann said, “We are thrilled to be opening Ulysse Nardin’s biggest boutique in the world with our esteemed and long-standing partners, Bin Hendi Group. Dubai is one of the most prime retail destinations in the world and the perfect dwelling for Ulysse Nardin’s biggest boutique thus also reinforcing the importance of Dubai and the Middle East market and patrons to the brand.” After the official inauguration was completed, guests were escorted to the exhibition that took place at the Grand Atrium of the Dubai Mall. Here, a 10X10m stand held the delightful and revolutionary Vivaldi timepiece, serial No. 1 out of 99, and other innovative pieces, also offering visitors information and exclusive glimpses into the world of Ulysse Nardin. Ulysse Nardin delighted high horology enthusiasts in 2013 with the introduction of “Stranger”. A marvel timepiece, it married movement and design with music, playing a rendition of Strangers in the Night. In its second release, the in-house developed, self-winding, musical mechanical watch performs the Vivaldi melody, Violin Concerto in E. Committed to its patrons, Ulysse Nardin’s boutique also features a dedicated section and specialized watchmaker who will provide effectual after sales services to Ulysse Nardin’s customers whenever required.

143

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

The revolutionary Vivaldi timepiece at the Dubai Mall

Edouard Meylan, M. Maire, Nadya Kalatur, Olivier Mancassola and Jelena Gas

H. Moser & Cie. honours the best Russianspeaking entrepreneur in Switzerland On the December 11th, the magnificent La Rotonde room of the Beau-Rivage Palace de Lausanne played host to the evening awards ceremony for the “FAVORIT Entrepreneurship Award 2014”. Jelena Gaszanova, Geneva Academic Center, was named as the best Russianspeaking entrepreneur in Switzerland. Event sponsor H. Moser & Cie., alongside its partner, Bucherer, offered its warmest congratulations to the winner, who was presented with an exclusive timepiece: a special edition Endeavour Centre Seconds in palladium with a midnight blue fumé dial. H. Moser & Cie. has close links with Russia - the company was founded in St. Petersburg in 1828. This was also where Heinrich Moser enjoyed his earliest success, before returning to Switzerland 20 years later. Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. was particularly delighted to be able to present the award to the best Russian-speaking entrepreneur in Switzerland: “A visionary watchmaker, Heinrich Moser was also a talented entrepreneur whose main preoccupations were innovation and excellence. This evening therefore represents a double return to our roots.” The winner, Jelena Gaszanova, was presented with a special edition Endeavour Centre Seconds in palladium with a midnight blue fumé dial. After the official ceremony, the 500 guests invited to the evening event were able to admire the H. Moser & Cie. creations under a magnifying glass and pose questions to the watchmaker in attendance.

Omega Launches New Timepiece Certification Omega and the director of the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) are collaborating on a new watch certification process that the brand has this year already begun to use to test each of its Master CoAxial watches, which will test the entire watch rather than only movements. Nick Hayek, Swatch Group CEO, suggested that in recent years it has become obvious that the movement-only COSC certification, long the industry norm, needs to be strengthened. Christian Bock, the director of METAS, said that the new certification process would give Omega and other Swiss watchmakers the opportunity to demonstrate the quality and timekeeping performance of their watches to a greater extent than has previously been possible. He added that it was important to point out that METAS is completely independent and will only agree to work on projects when it is convinced that its neutrality is not compromised. The agreement with Omega, he added, has no suggestion of exclusivity and other watch company clients would have access to the same certification. Omega will produce its first watches with the new Master Co-Axial Officially Certified designation by the middle of this year. Owners of certified watches will be able to access online or via a smartphone the results and performance parameters of the tests passed by their watches.

Swatch Group CEO Nick Hayek (center) was joined by Christian Bock (to his left), the Director of METAS, Stephen Urquhart (to his right), President of Omega and Omega Vice Presidents Raynald Aeschlimann and Andreas Hobmeier.

Ulysse Nardin unveils its second mono-brand boutique in Moscow A new chapter in the history of Ulysse Nardin in Russia began with the opening of the second monobrand boutique in Moscow. Situated in one of the most posh streets of the city, the new boutique will definitely become one of the most attractive places for the connoisseurs of the watchmaking art. The ribbon cutting ceremony was additionally decorated by the first snow which added special charm to the warm atmosphere of the event. The celebration continued at Chips restaurant where the CEO of Ulysse Nardin Patrik Hoffmann (seen here on the right in the photo) in his speech expressed the commitment of the brand to Russia and wished a great success to all the brand’s activities. At this occasion, Ulysse Nardin has renewed its support in helping children by making a donation to the Life Line Charity Fund. INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

142

news NEWS

new sTORes In TOwn

Mouawad opens new boutique in Abu Dhabi’s Nation Towers Mouawad celebrate the opening of their exclusive new boutique at Abu Dhabi’s Nation Towers, Nation Galleria on the first floor. The new space promises to be a chic, elegant destination for haute joaillerie, indicating an exciting new step in regional expansion for the group, and it will also be a welcome destination for the city’s jewellery lovers to indulge in their passion for the very finest gems, watches and beautiful objects. “With the opening of this boutique, discerning shoppers and jewellery aficionados in the nation’s capital will have access to 157 square metres of elegant space housing some of our most enthrallingly beautiful and wearable pieces,” says Pascal Mouawad, CEO Retail Division. Sparkling throughout the new boutique will be signature Mouawad haute joaillerie sets, boutique collections, watch collections and stunning objets d’art. The prestigious location in Abu Dhabi is the second such to open in the United Arab Emirates. Mouawad first launched its new look and feel in 2010 with the opening of the Dubai Mall boutique. The Abu Dhabi store takes the idea of customer service to a whole new level with the introduction of a luxurious and private VIP room set aside just for clients to experience and try on select pieces from Mouawad’s exquisite and renowned jewellery and renowned watch collections. It all takes place within a welcoming ambience, where rich furnishings, sophisticated elements and the understated Mouawad luxury and glamour come together in style. “As our loyal clients already know, Mouawad has an important presence in Dubai, with its Dubai Mall boutique,” adds Pascal Mouawad, “With the opening of our second boutique in the nation’s capital, we are committed to rapid growth and expansion in this region in the near future.”

Chopard opens a boutique dedicated to its High Jewellery at Dubai’s Four Seasons Chopard announced the opening of its first High Jewellery boutique in the Middle East at the prestigious Four Seasons Dubai Jumeirah Beach hotel. With a sophisticated design created after the Boutique concept developed by interior designer Thierry Despont, the Chopard Boutique at the Four Seasons’ showcases an exclusive selection of Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie Collection. Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s Co-President and Artistic Director said on this occasion: “Dubai is a timeless, magical place – the backdrop to a sequence of spectacular moments and home to the world’s most stylish travellers. ‘Chopard at The Four Seasons’ will be a globally renowned destination where jewellery lovers and connoisseurs will be invited to discover Chopard’s unique creations in the most elegant of settings.” Chopard’s Haute Joaillerie creations are designed by Caroline Scheufele herself. Created by a woman for the women, the Haute Joaillerie collection, a reflection of femininity, is fascinating and magical. These creations are manufactured in the ateliers of Chopard, in Geneva, that include the most sophisticated designs such as Chopard’s Animal World collection or the Red Carpet Collection. Since 1972, Chopard is also retailed exclusively through Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons across the UAE. For further information on Chopard visit chopard.com and for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons visit seddiqi.com.

ISTANA new boutique at Four Seasons Dubai ISTANA, the renowned multi-brand jewellery retailer has opened a new boutique inside the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. Located in the lobby of the opulent property, this is Istana’s third boutique in Dubai and will carry exclusive selection of jewelry and time pieces from various international brands. Danny Mukhi, Managing Director of ISTANA, said “We are pleased to announce the opening of our third store in Dubai which is part of our expansion plans in the Middle East. ISTANA is known to cater to luxurious clients and our new location is a testament to this. Now we’ll be able to extend our line of jewellery to a wider market.”

145

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Suhaim Bin hamad Street / Villaggio Mall , Tel : 444 7 8888

www.almajedgroup.me

INTERNATIONAL WATCH FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015

147

Just a sec...! Retail boutiques… First… Last… Everything.

Ever since the enigma of e-commerce was born few decades ago, all the attention was directed towards it with millions trying to come up with ways and ideas to make a quick buck or (in some cases) a fortune. I am not going to dwell on providing examples since my point is not directed to that field precisely. I have always believed in the freedom of expression and of foundation when it comes to efforts to achieve dreams, particularly through projects that are worth it and that lead to prosperity of communities. E-commerce these days introduce hundreds of businesses, ideas and facilities enticing potential clientele from all around the world to buy online. Airlines, hotels, fashion, accessories, etc… you name it, and it’s all there! When I came up with my website project and discussed it with my close circle of acquaintances, I was encouraged to also join the e-commerce hype and include commercial-activity options on my website. “Since they are all doing it and making a lot of money, why not you too!” I was told. My answer to everyone was a quick and an emphatic NO. I have been lucky to write, support and work for an industry that is born out of talent, achieved out of dreams and imagination, and progressed out of quality perseverance and sustainability over not only decades, but centuries. Fine watchmaking has always been a source of challenge and in the same time a reference of exceptional skills. The talented watchmakers save no effort to bring their production of handmade (or hand assembled) timepieces into reality. I said it many times to everyone that the prime joy of a watchmaker is to see his own manufactured timepiece on the wrist of a happy client who loves to wear it, who understands its values, who appreciates every single effort given to produce it. Those feelings that clients enjoy are not made on the net, neither can be purchased from any e-commerce, whatever and however you decorate it. The watchmaker burns in passion to achieve a new creation following an inspiration or plans from his R&D colleagues. The journalist is more than happy to extend his support to the watchmaker and write about his creations, in as many details as possible and (like iW) as much easily to understand as possible. The retail boutique is the eventual stage for that beautiful creation to be exposed, where clientele will and must visit to be presented with all the important information they do need, in order to buy their chosen timepiece. That stage does not only include luxurious interior designs and furniture; it’s not only about the lavish lighting and the stylish presentation tools of watches; it is also about expert customer service and the human touch that adds important elements to found a relationship between watchmakers and watch clients. That boutique is about sales and - more importantly – after sales service, where clients would get one of the most important factors next to the professional services that they usually receive which is, building a trustful and a rewarding personal relationship. That, cannot be sold nor bought on e-commerce. There are legends who helped build this industry and legends who helped saving it. Allow me to remind everyone to respect those who came before us, hoping that our good deeds and decent honest efforts in helping to maintain and develop this industry would contribute to instill the respect out of future generations to come. Just as always, I leave you with my own end quote looking forward to see you soon in the once-a-year GRAND EDITION that is shaping up superbly with all the Baselworld 2015 novelties in it: “An image can never match a personality if that in itself is not built on a character found with an upbringing of decency and honesty”. Keep watching and reading…!

Vasken Chokarian 146

FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH