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NAUTICAL TIME • • •

Ulysse Nardin Chronometers Rolex Yachtmaster II Dive Watches Guide

‫ﺑﺮﻳـﻐـﻴـــــﻪ‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺷﺎﻋﺮﻳﺔ وﺗﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﻋﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

Patek Philippe Exclusive Story on Rare Handcrafts

CARL F. BUCHERER

SCUBATEC DIVE SUPREME

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ACCURACY TAKEN TO NEW DEPTHS

PATRAVI SCUBATEC Discover the world 500 meters below its surface. The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s watch offers a multi adjustable clasp and an automatic helium release valve to ensure ultimate comfort and worry free equalization of pressure. Created with the highest grade of stainless steel, its rugged ceramic bezel and blue illuminated hands and dial markers ensure perfect readability, even at the deepest depths. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION

WATCH

International

Since 1990

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CONTENTS June - July 2015

COVER STORY

123

16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 47 49 51 57 61 67 77 79 85 86 89 107 111 115 123 125 127 129 135 137 146

‫اإلبرة والخيط‬ ‫هيرميس والخيار األكثر رفع ًا‬ ‫ تـوربيـــن بايلوت في عالم الطيران‬Perrelet

‫ الجديدة‬Kruzenshtern ‫ تطرح ساعة‬Ulysse Nardin ‫ عجلتان سريعتان‬Tudor

Breitling ‫ والتحليق عالي ًا‬Wright ‫دار‬ ‫كاسيــو وإزدهار اإلبتكارات‬ Arnold & Son Jaeger-LeCoultre WPHH 2015 B.ZERO1 ‫مجموعة‬ ‫أموليت دو كارتييه‬ IWC ‫ من‬Portofino Midsize

Rêve de Plume Haute Joaillerie Harry Winston Premier Collection Artistic Crafts Lights, camera, action! Baselworld 2015 Geneva Watchmaking on display Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Watch Guide: the Power Reserves Backstory: Audemars Piguet and Zenith Ten Years of TravelTec Zenith counts 15 years Special - Nautical Time Dive Watches Guide The Music of Raymond Weil The Fleurier Standard The Titanium Watches Independent Atelier: MCT Passions: Wheels Up Passions: In Hot Water Market Seen & Spotted News & Events Editor’s Note

INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015

real watches for real people

Oris Aquis Depth Gauge Automatic mechanical movement Patented depth gauge function Unidirectional, revolving top ring with ceramic inlay Water resistant to 500 metres

www.oris.ch

WATCH

International

Since 1990

middle east

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MASTER WATCHMAKER/TECHNICAL ADVISOR

Vasken Chokarian

Donald Loke

MANAGING EDITOR & ART DIRECTOR

SPECIAL EDITORIAL ADVISOR

Katia Sessa

Dr. Thomas Mao

CREATIVE SOLUTIONS

GLOBAL TEAM

Gajou Art Studio

JOURNALISTS / CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADVERTISING SALES

v.chokarian@Lbcme.ae REGIONAL SALES MANAGER

Avedis Jokarian admin@Lbcme.ae GRAPHIC & LAYOUT DESIGN

Jonnel Herman ADMINISTRATION & FINANCE

Liz Perrera OFFICE MANAGER

Jessica Hitalia SWISS EDITOR

Nola Martin GERMAN CORRESPONDENT

Patricia de Brügger UK CORRESPONDENT

John Goodall EUROPEAN CORRESPONDENT

Theodore Diehl-Peshkur SWISS CORRESPONDENT

Ian Skellern PUBLISHER

Luxury Business Communications P.O. Box 474182 Dubai - U.A.E. Phone: +9714 88 555 25 Fascimile: +9714 88 555 26 email : editor@Lbcme.ae SUBSCRIPTIONS / CUSTOMER SERVICE

Luxury Business Communications P.O. Box 474182 Dubai - U.A.E. Phone: +9714 88 555 25 Fascimile: +9714 88 555 26 email: subscribe@Lbcme.ae

Michael Thompson Nancy Olson Rachael Palacios Evan Rosenstein Renée Amellio Carol Besler Thomas Byczkowski Deanna Cullen Josh Dean Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle Daniel B. England Keith Flamer Martin Foster Meehna Goldsmith C. Bradley Jacobs Ken Kessler Steven Miceli Jordan Rothacker Jeff Stein Jan Teglar Dr. Melvyn Telliol-Foo Ernest R. Tope Timothy Treffry Anthony Tsai Carlo Wolff Anthony Young Vivien Mao Michael Clerizo Daos Boonma Dimitri Pavlovski Megan Samoskevich Sheldon K. Smith Myles Mellor Steve Lundin Paul H. Boutros Tara Brennan Manuel Yazdjian Frank Geelen Jason Heaton

USA EDITION

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.‫ ﻛﻞ ﺣﻘﻮق اﻟﻨﺸﺮ ﻣﺤﻔﻮﻇﺔ‬.‫اﻟﻤﻘﺎﻻت اﻟﻤﻨﺸﻮرة ﺗﻌﺒﺮ ﻋﻦ آراء ﻛﺘﺎﺑﻬﺎ دون ﺗﺤﻤﻞ أي ﻣﺴﺆوﻟﻴﺔ‬ All advertising is subject to approval before acceptance. The publisher reserves the right to refuse any advertising for any reason whatsoever, without limit. The publisher assumes no responsibility for claims made by advertisers. All views expressed in all articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of this publication. The publisher assumes no responsibility and no liability for unsolicited materials. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part or storage in any data retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form. All rights reserved.

.‫ل‬.‫ ل‬١٠،٠٠٠ ‫ ﻟﺒﻨﺎن‬- ‫ رﻳﺎل‬٢ ‫ ﻋُ ﻤﺎن‬- ‫ رﻳﺎل‬٢٥ ‫ ﻗﻄﺮ‬- ‫ دﻳﻨﺎر‬٢،٥ ‫ اﻟﺒﺤﺮﻳﻦ‬- ‫ دﻳﻨﺎر‬٢ ‫ اﻟﻜﻮﻳﺖ‬- ‫ رﻳﺎل‬٢٥ ‫ اﻟﺴﻌﻮدﻳﺔ‬- ‫ درﻫﻢ‬٢٥ ‫ا*ﻣﺎرات‬ ‫ درﻫﻢ‬٥٥٠ ‫ ﺑﺎﻗﻲ اﻟﺪول اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ‬- ‫ درﻫﻢ‬٤٥٠‫ دول ﻣﺠﻠﺲ اﻟﺘﻌﺎون اﻟﺨﻠﻴﺠﻲ‬- ‫ درﻫﻢ‬٢٥٠ ‫ ا*ﻣﺎرات‬:‫ا*ﺷﺘﺮاﻛﺎت ﺑﻤﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ أﺟﻮر اﻟﺒﺮﻳﺪ‬

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

ON THE RADAR running in a gorgeous ballet of mechanics and art. Some themes this year include mechanical movements for ladies watches— often found in high-jewelry pieces. But I think this “trend” has gone on long enough that it can no longer be called a trend. Rather, ladies mechanical watches are

Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

Elizabeth Doerr

Nancy Olson

now part of the ethos of fine watchmaking and we should

A freelance journalist and editorial

Born in Michigan, Elizabeth Doerr

Having returned from Baselworld,

learn to expect updated and

consultant who has lived on three

has dedicated most of her wak-

my mind is still filled with all the

exciting examples. Breguet, in

different continents, Y-Jean is no

ing hours to mechanical watch-

new products, fresh ideas and

particular, has done a superb job

stranger to change. She finds

es since 1991 after visiting the

interesting people that combine

in translating its dual expertise in

joy and solace in writing and

Basel Fair. Regularly contributing

to create the watch industry, as

haute joaillerie and haute horology

contributes regularly to regional

to numerous high-quality maga-

we know it. This year, while we

into a gorgeous array of ladies

and international titles such as

zines and websites all over the

were privy to many of the new

timepieces that are destined for

Asia Tatler, Harper’s Bazaar,

world, Elizabeth reaches millions

timepieces via “pre-Basel press

collectability, particularly within its

L’Officiel, Plaza Watch, Revolution,

of readers every year. Elizabeth,

releases,” I was reminded that

Reine de Naples and Rêve de

The Peak and Time Out, shining

published her first independent

brands are quite sophisticated

Plume collections.

a spotlight in particular on art,

book in early 2010: 12 Faces of

when it comes to keeping the

Other themes include the use of

architecture, design, horology and

Time, a “love letter” to indepen-

public and press actively and

thread to decorate ladies’ watch

jewelry.

dent watchmaking.

excitedly engaged in their doings.

dials, as beautifully evidenced,

In other words, there were many

among others, by Hublot’s Big

FE ATURE THIS ISSUE:

more surprises in store once we

Bang Broderie, the Dior VIII

THE FLEURIER STANDARD | PAGE 113

THE INDEPENDENTS | PAGE 123

hit the ground in Basel.

Grand Bal Fil D’Or, Chanel’s

One brand that was rigorously

Mademoiselle Privé, and Harry

understated pre-show, given the

Winston’s Premier Lace. Watch

news released at Baselworld, was

our

Fabergé. This year marked the

iwmagazine.com—for in-depth

introduction of some lovely new

information on these and many

watches, for men and women,

more new releases.

upcoming

issues—and

and an exhibition of the Pearl Egg, the first introduced in the ‘Imperial Class’ in nearly a century wherein the Fabergé name and

James Heaton

Nola Martin

the Fabergé family are united. I was particularly enthralled by

International

the Lady Compliquée collection,

Correspondent,

adventure travel, outdoor gear

which

success-driven and dynamic

and timepieces from his home

the

brainchild

Watch’s Nola

Swiss is

Jason Heaton writes about

watchmaker

professional with twelve years

base of Minneapolis. In addition

Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who

of experience in marketing

to International Watch, he also

was also responsible for Harry

and advertising, including an

contributes to Gear Patrol,

Winston’s Opus 9, among many

extensive knowledge of the

Hodinkee,

other wonders.

luxury industries specifically in

Men’s Journal.

world-renowned

His company,

and

watches and fine jewelry.

Agenhor, is credited with the new movement that keeps the two versions of the Compliquée

Revolution

Mademoiselle Privé from Chanel with embroidered dial.

FE ATURE THIS ISSUE:

NEEDLE AND THREAD | PAGE 16

A SEAWORTHY COMPLICATION | PAGE 97

INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015

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‫اإلبــــرة والخيـــط‬ ‫تجمع مجموعة ‪ Big Bang Broderie‬من ‪ Hublot‬بين التطريز‬ ‫والمواد التقنية المتطورة‬ ‫من نوال مارتن‬

‫ليس من السهل الجمع بين شكل من أشكال الفن القديم كالتطريز وبين‬ ‫المواد التقنية المتطوّ رة مثل ألياف الكربون‪ .‬ولكن بفضل بعض المساعدة من‬ ‫بعض األصدقاء‪ ،‬نجحت ‪ Hublot‬هذا العام في ابتكار طريقة جديدة لتجميل‬ ‫ساعات مجموعة ‪ .Big Bang‬فبفضل ‪ Bischoff Texil AG‬و ‪Busch‬‬ ‫‪ Composites‬وهما اسمان خبيران والمعان في مجالي التطريز والمركّ بات‬ ‫المعدنية‪ ،‬أطلقت ‪ Hublot‬نسيج ًا مطرزا ً مزخرف ًا يجمع بين طبقات من الراتنج‬ ‫تم جمعها ضمن مجموعة ‪Hublot‬‬ ‫وألياف الكربون البتكار تصاميم ثورية ّ‬ ‫الجديدة‪.Big Bang Broderie :‬‬ ‫شراكة سويسرية‬ ‫شركة ‪ Bischoff Textil‬هي واحدة من شركاء ‪ ،Hublot‬إنها شركة عائلية‬ ‫مقرها في سان غالين وتعتبر شركة خبيرة في ابتكار األنسجة المطرّزة‪ ،‬وتملك‬ ‫مصانع في سويسرا وسري النكا وتايلند وتركيا‪ .‬ومن خالل مصنعها المتطوّ ر‬ ‫والثوري في سويسرا‪ ،‬تقوم هذه الشركة بإنتاج مطرّزات راقية وعلى الطلب‬ ‫لزبائن رائدين مثل برادا وفاالنتينو وأكريس وأوسكار دي ال رينتا‪ .‬أما الزخارف‬ ‫المميّزة في مجموعة ‪ Hublot‬الجديدة ‪ ،Big Bang Broderie‬فقد بدأت‬ ‫بمجموعة من الرسوم المبدئية على ورق تقني لتحديد األماكن التي ستثبت فيها‬ ‫الدرزات‪ .‬ولقد استخدمت هذه الرسوم البتكار التصميم المبدئي‪ ،‬وفي‬ ‫هذه الحالة تحديداً‪ ،‬البتكار تصميم الجمجمة المكسيكية المتمردة‬

‫مرصع بأحجار الماس من مجموعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تصميم ذهبي‬ ‫‪ Hublot‬الجديدة ‪ .Hublot Broderie‬تتوافر هذه‬ ‫الساعة بثالثة نسخ مختلفة‪ ،‬وكل منها ‪ 200‬قطعة فقط‪.‬‬

‫جسد‬ ‫مجسدة على القماش الشفاف! ولقد ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المزوّدة بنفحة ساحرة‬ ‫التصميم بدقة المتطلبات في المساحة الصغيرة المحدّ دة على المينا‪.‬‬ ‫مصممة لدى ‪« :Bischoff‬شكّ ل هذا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتقول رايتشل دو العينيست‪،‬‬ ‫المشروع تحدي ًا بالنسبة إلينا‪ .‬فبالعادة‪ ،‬عند العمل على األقمشة‪ ،‬ال‬

‫صانع ساعات ماهر يعمل على‬ ‫تركيب آلية في مصنع ‪.Hublot‬‬

‫نبالي بالمساحات الصغيرة جداً‪ ،‬ولكن عندما عملنا على الساعات‪ ،‬فكان‬ ‫ال بد من االنتباه للمقاسات الدقيقة‪ .‬تخيّلوا معداتنا التي بلغ طولها‬ ‫تسعة أمتار وإذا تحرّك القماش بمعدل ملمتر واحد‪ ،‬ال يعود الموقع‬ ‫والتصميم صحيحين‪ .‬شكّ ل هذا المشروع تحدي ًا كبيرا ً بالنسبة إلينا‬

‫سفيرة ‪ Hublot‬بار رافاييلي‪.‬‬

‫إذا كان علينا أن نكون دقيقين جدا ً وأن نبتكر التصميم النسائي الثوري‬ ‫الصحيح الذي طلبته دار ‪.»Hublot‬‬ ‫أما شركة ‪ ،Busch Composites‬الشريك التقني‪ ،‬فقد تأسست عام ‪،1988‬‬ ‫وتختص بمزج المواد المختلفة الستخدامها لوجهات متطوّ رة ودقيقة‪ .‬أما المادة‬ ‫التي اختارتها الشركة‪ ،‬فتعرف باسم ‪( RTM‬مزيج نقل الراتنج) ونجدها في معدات‬ ‫الهوكي وفي الصناعات الطبية والجوية وصناعة السيارات‪ .‬واستقت الشركة من‬

‫‪16‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫تصاميم من مجموعة ‪ Hublot Broderie‬الجديدة‬ ‫آالت التطريز في شركة ‪ Bischoff‬في سان غالين في سويسرا‪ ،‬وقد‬ ‫يبلغ طول هذه اآللية ‪ 33‬مترا ً‪.‬‬

‫خبراتها في صناعة مكونات ألياف الكربون المتطوّ رة البتكار أسلوب ًا جديدا ً لتغليف‬

‫شخصية ثورية‬

‫النسيج المطرّز بمادة الراتنج ثم تغطيته بألياف الكربون لتعزيز مظهره وملمسه‬

‫تلقي هذه المجموعة الجديدة من ‪ Hublot‬الضوء على فلسفة ‪ Hublot‬التي‬

‫وقوته‪ .‬وعلى الرغم من التحديات الكثيرة التي واجهتها الشركة قبل التوصل إلى‬

‫تقوم على الدمج واالندماج‪ ،‬وااللتزام باالبتكار‪ .‬تتميّز هذه الساعة بمينا وموضع‬

‫التركيبة المثالية التي تجمع بين المواد ودرجات الحرارة والمقاسات المناسبة‪،‬‬

‫زجاجة خاصية يحمالن رسما جمجمة مكسيكية محفورة على الاليزر من قطعة‬

‫توصلت الشركة إلى ابتكار تقنية جدية رأت النور للمرة األولى في مجموعة ‪Hublot‬‬

‫واحدة للتأكد من المحافظة على نمط واحد ومستمر بدءأ بالمينا ووصو ًال إلى‬

‫الجديدة‪.Big Bang Broderie :‬‬

‫موضع الزجاجة‪ .‬ولقد ثبّتت ‪ Hublot‬هذا النمط على الساعة بواسطة ستة براغٍ‬ ‫مصنوعة من مادة التيتانيوم ومطلية بمادة ‪ PVD‬السوداء وتأتي على شكل‬ ‫يتم جمع الساعات في مصنع ‪ Hublot‬باستخدام آلية‬ ‫حرف الهاء الالتيني ‪ّ .H‬‬ ‫‪ Hublot‬الخاصة الذاتية التعبئة ‪ .HUB1110‬تتوفر هذه الساعة النسائية الجذابة‬

‫قماش ‪ Gallen‬المطرّز‬ ‫يتم فن التطريز باستخدام إبرة وخيط على قطعة قماش‪ ،‬ويكون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إما يدوي ًا أو بواسطة آلة‪ .‬وتشتهر دار ‪ St. Gallen‬بالقماش المطرّز‬ ‫يتم فيه غسل‬ ‫المعروف باسم ‪ ، Guipure‬إنه أسلوب تطريز خاص ّ‬

‫والملفتة بثالثة تصاميم مختلفة وستصنع الشركة ‪ 200‬قطعة من كل منها‪:‬‬ ‫تتميّز النسخة الذهبية بلمسة رقي استثنائية حيث يدخل في التطريز خيط ذهبي‬ ‫ينوّ ر التطريز ويظهر على المينا ويمتدّ على السوار؛ وتتميّز هذه الساعة أيض ًا بكونها‬ ‫مرصعةً بـ ‪ 209‬حجر الماس‪ .‬كذلك‪ ،‬تتوافر نسخة سوداء بالكامل فتأتي المينا فيها‬ ‫ّ‬

‫القماش بمواد كيميائية تضعف القماش وتبقي التطريز ظاهرا ً‬

‫ومزصعة بأحجار الماس سوداء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مصنوعة من الفوالذ المطلي بمادة ‪ PVD‬السوداء‬

‫تم اكتشاف هذه العملية عن طريق الصدفة‪.‬‬ ‫ومستأثرا ً باألنظار‪ .‬ولقد ّ‬

‫ومطرّزة بخيط حريري أسود‪ .‬أما النسخة الثالثة منها فتتميّز بخيط فضي اللون‪.‬‬

‫وتقدّ م ‪ Bischoff‬مجموعة هائلة من األقمشة والعينات المطرّزة‬ ‫يدوي ًا أو بواسطة اآلالت باإلضافة إلى مجموعة كتب واسعة جدا ً‪.‬‬

‫بار والتطريز‬ ‫بار رافاييلي هي السفيرة األولى لدار ‪ Hublot‬ولقد أضفى اختيارها نفحةً جذابة إضافية‬ ‫ال إلطالق المجموعة في مدينة‬ ‫للمجموعة الجديدة‪ .‬وقد أقامت ‪ Hublot‬حف ً‬ ‫نيويورك حضرته رافاييلي وكانت ترتدي فستان ًا راقي ًا مثيرا ً مصنوع ًا من قماش‬ ‫بيشوف المطرّز وزيّنته بساعة ‪.Big Bang Broderie‬‬ ‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪17‬‬

FRANÇOIS-PAUL JOURNE GUEST OF HONOR @ WATCHOOGLE.com

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‫مصممو ‪ Hermès‬على‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتمييز بين النهار (أبيض) والليل (أسود)‪ .‬ولقد ركّ ز‬ ‫البساطة في هذه الساعة‪ .‬ويشار إلى أن المجموعة بأكملها (التي تتضمن‬ ‫أيض ًا تصاميم أوتوماتيكية بثالث عقارب وعدة نماذج أخرى أصغر حجم ًا تقوم‬ ‫على آلية الكوارتز) تتميّز بغالفات رفيعة وتصاميم خاصة للمينا تحمل أرقام ًا‬ ‫وخطوط ًا بسيطة وفريدة من تصميم فيليب أبيلواغ الذي تطبع أرقامه المميّزة‬ ‫واالستثنائية كامل تصاميم وساعات مجموعة ‪.Slim d’Hermès‬‬ ‫ثالثة أحجام‬ ‫ال تقتصر ساعات مجموعة ‪ Slim d’Hermès‬على الروزنامة المستدامة‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫إنها مجموعة مخصصة للرجال والسيدات معاً‪ ،‬وتتوافر تصاميمها بثالثة أحجام؛‬ ‫ونجد منها التصميم األوتوماتيكي المصنوع من الذهب الزهري أو الفوالذ والمزوّد‬ ‫بثالثة عقارب وتأتي ضمن غالف يبلغ قطره ‪ 39،5‬ملم مثل الروزنامة المستدامة‪.‬‬ ‫وأيضاً‪ ،‬نرى تصميم ًا رفيع ًا آخر‪ ،‬بل تصاميم رفيعة أخرى رسمية تظهر جمال أرقام‬ ‫أبيلواغ‪ .‬تقوم هذه الساعات على آلية ‪ ، Hermès H1950‬اآللية األساسية نفسها‬ ‫المستخدمة في التصميم الذي يتضمن روزنامة مستدامة؛ وكما تلك الساعة‪،‬‬ ‫يمكن رؤية اآللية في هذه التصاميم األكثر بساطة عبر الجهة الخلفية من الغالف‬ ‫المصنوعة من بلورة صفير شفافة‪ .‬أما التصميمان اآلخران من هذه المجموعة‪،‬‬ ‫فيقومان على آلية كوارتز التي ويبلغ قطر غالفهما ‪ 32‬ملم و‪ 25‬ملم على التوالي‪.‬‬ ‫تتميّز هذه الساعات بأحجامها الثالثة بأسوار ‪ Hermès‬ملوّ نة من جلد التمساح‪،‬‬ ‫ومن ألوانها األسود واألبيض واألزرق إلى جانب البني‪ ،‬والرمادي والبنفسجي‪ .‬وإن لم‬ ‫تكونوا من محبي األلوان‪ ،‬فتتوافر هذه الساعات متوفرة مرفقةً بسوار من جلد‬ ‫العجل أو من جلد بارينيا ‪ ،Barenia‬إضافة إلى السوار الفوالذي‪ .‬كما تتوافر هذه‬ ‫األحجام أيض ًا من الذهب الزهري أو من الفوالذ‪ ،‬مع إمكانية ترصيعها بالماس‪ .‬وعند‬ ‫اختيار الغالف المصنوع من الذهب الزهري‪ ،‬تتزيّن الساعة بصفيحة مدرّجة مزخرفة‬ ‫على طريقة ‪ guilloché‬المطلية بمادة عرق اللؤلؤ البيضاء فيما يظهر شعار‬ ‫الماركة الشهير على الجهة الخلفية من الغالف‪.‬‬

‫تصاميم ‪ Slim d’Hermès‬األوتوماتيكية الجديدة المصنوعة من الفوالذ أو الذهب الزهري‬ ‫والتي يبلغ قطرها ‪ 39،5‬ملم‪.‬‬ ‫آلية ‪ Hermès H1950‬الرفيعة جدا ً التي تتميّز بدوار صغري يعتبر القطعة األساس في‬ ‫هذه اآللية المركزية لساعة ‪ Slim d’Hermès‬الروزنامة المستدامة واآللية األوتوماتيكية‪.‬‬

‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

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‫هيرميس والخيار األكثر رفع ًا‬ ‫تتز يّن مجموعة الساعات الجديدة والرفيعة هذه بخط وكتابات رفيعة!‬ ‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫أطلقت ‪ Hermès‬هذه المجموعة الجديدة كلياً‪ ،‬وعزّزت من خاللها اسمها‬ ‫وتصاميمها المميّزة في قطاع تصميم الساعات الدقيقة والرفيعة‪ .‬تعتبر‬ ‫هذه الساعة من األرفع من نوعها وتبلغ سماكتها ‪ 9,04‬ملم‪ ،‬تتميّز بروزنامة‬ ‫مستدامة؛ كما تميّزت القطعة األولى من هذه المجموعة الجديدة بآلية خاصة‬ ‫بـ ‪ Hermès‬يبلغ قطرها ‪ 2,6‬ملم تعلوها وحدة قياس من نوع ‪Agenhor‬‬ ‫يبلغ قطرها ‪ 1،4‬ملم‪ ،‬وهي كما سبق وذكرنا‪ ،‬أول الساعات في هذه المجموعة‬ ‫المتعددة التصاميم‪.‬‬ ‫تتميّز آلية ‪ H1950‬التي تصنعها ‪ Hermès‬في مصانعها‪ ،‬بكونها رفيعة جدا ً‬ ‫وتضمن دوّارا ً صغري ًا يشغّ ل هذه الساعة التي يبلغ قطرها ‪ 39,5‬ملم‪ .‬يمكن‬ ‫رؤية اآللية عبر الجهة الخلفية الشفافة من الغالف وتتميّز جسور اآلليات‬ ‫بكون حرف الهاء الالتيني الذي يرمز إلى ماركة ‪ Hermès‬محفورا ً عليها‪ ،‬كما‬ ‫أنها محفورة ومزخرفة يدوياً‪ .‬أما الروزنامة المستدامة‪ ،‬فتعرض للتاريخ باأليام‬ ‫واألشهر آخذةً في االعتبار السنوات الكبيس‪ ،‬وبالتالي تسمح بعرض التاريخ ألربع‬ ‫سنوات على التوالي‪ .‬كذلك‪ ،‬تتميّز هذه الساعة بمؤشر مراحل القمر المصنوع‬ ‫من مادة عرق اللؤلؤ البيضاء الطبيعية والتي تظهر بوضوح على خلفية زرقاء‬ ‫تحاكي لون السماء ليالً‪ .‬أما مؤشر الوقت المزدوج‪ ،‬فيعرض لنقطة بسيطة‬ ‫ساعة ‪ Slim d’Hermès‬بالروزنامة المستدامة من الذهب الزهري‬

‫يظهر الكاليبر الجديد عند الخلف لكل ساعات ‪ Hermès‬االوتوماتيكية‬

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‫تـوربيـــن بـايـلوت‬ ‫في عالم الطيران‬ ‫الزالت شركة بيريليه للساعات السويسرية الفاخرة تحصد ثمار نجاح إصدارات‬

‫قطر علب االستنلس ‪ 48‬ملم وتتسم بعينة بيريليه األخدودية المميزة‪ .‬تضمن‬

‫توربين بايلوت «ساعات الطيار المميزة» منذ إطالقها مؤخرا ً وخاصة من خالل‬

‫ال رياضي ًا ورجالي ًا جدا ً وتتوفر في علب من الصلب مع بطانة‬ ‫بعض الموديالت شك ً‬

‫استمرار نمو الطلب على الساعات التي تجمع بين روعة التصميم والشكل األنيق‬

‫بي في دي ‪ PVD‬السوداء‪ ،‬وهى معالجة تضمن الوقاية الممتازة وتعزز جماليات‬

‫وبين الكفاءة والمتانة ومهارة الصناعة السويسرية الفريدة‪.‬‬

‫الساعة المطورة‪.‬‬

‫ومنذ الكشف عن إصدار توربين بايلوت‪ ،‬الساعة المناسبة للرجل المغامر المحب‬

‫يتم تفعيل حلقة الميناء الدوارة ثنائية االتجاه من خالل تاج عند الساعة ‪ 3‬تماماً‪،‬‬

‫للطيران‪ ،‬باتت بيريليه تحاول إضفاء روح اإلبداع واالرتقاء بإصدارات الساعات‬

‫فيما يتم ضبط الوقت بتاج مدمج عند الساعة ‪ 9‬تماماً‪.‬‬

‫الرجالية والجمع بين الكفاءة العالية والتقنية الفريدة والتصميم األنيق باإلضافة‬

‫وتخلق شارات الساعات البيضاء المضيئة واألرقام العربية األربع المثبتة بكل‬

‫إلى تكريم عالم الطيران ومن خالل تحدٍ جديد مع إطالق تشكيلة «توربين‬

‫دقة على ميناء الزفير فوق التوربين‪ ،‬تخلق تباين ًا رائع ًا مع الخلفية السوداء‬

‫بايلوت»‪ ،‬التألق من خالل الدراية الفنية والشغف والدقة والجرأة‪.‬‬

‫والصفراء‪ :‬توليفة من ألوان طيران نمطية تتأكد أكثر عند عمل التوربين‪ .‬كما‬

‫وتربط تشكيلة «توربين بايلوت» المميزة من بيريليه بين مفهوم «توربين»‬

‫ال مميزا ً ثالثي‬ ‫يضفي ترتيب الطبقات الذكي للعناصر على هذه التشكيلة شك ً‬

‫ومفهوم قاعدة شريحة طيران دائرية‪ :‬تدريب فني ونظامي جديد لساعة طيار‬

‫األبعاد‪ .‬ولضمان أفضل وضوح للقراءة تأتي الميناء واللولب في مركز الميناء‬

‫فريدة بحق‪.‬‬

‫مضيئين باللون األبيض‪.‬‬

‫في قلب التشكيلة يعمل معيار ‪ P-331‬الميكانيكي األتوماتيكي الذي تم‬

‫وتتوفر هذه التشكيلة مع أحزمة سوداء من المطاط وجلد الجاموس‪ ،‬ويتم عمل‬

‫تطويره وإنتاجه بالكامل ذاتي ًا داخل موقع إنتاج العالمة‪.‬‬

‫األخير ببراعة بطريقة تضمن تثبيت مثالي وراحة متناهية‪ .‬وإلتقان التناغم الشامل‬

‫تؤكد موديالت التشكيلة األربع على هوية فريدة تمزج بين القوة واألناقة‪ .‬يبلغ‬

‫في «توربين بايلوت»‪ ،‬تحمل اإلبزيمات المسمارية نفس تشطيبات العلب‪.‬‬

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‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

THE AHCI IS INSTRUMENTAL IN HELPING NEW GENERATIONS THE AHCI IS INSTRUMENTAL IN HELPING NEW GENERATIONS OF INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKERS DEVELOP THEIR OWN BRANDS. OF INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKERS DEVELOP THEIR OWN BRANDS.

Créations Kazès Genève

MASAHIRO KIKUNO

MASAHIRO KIKUNO Miki Eleta

Miki Eleta

Unique Timepieces

AHCI AHCI Depuis 1985

Créations Kazès Genève

ACADEMIE HORLOGERE DES BASELWORLD 2015 ACADEMIE HORLOGERE DES CREATEURS INDEPENDANTS HALL 2.0 / C15 CREATEURS INDEPENDANTS Depuis 1985 WWW.AHCI.CH MARCH 19 - 26, 2015 WWW.AHCI.CH

BASELWORLD 2015 HALL 2.0 / C15 MARCH 19 - 26, 2015

‫‪Ulysse Nardin Kruzenshtern‬‬ ‫البراعــة الفنيــة المثاليـــة‬ ‫رغبةً منها في اإلشادة بتاريخ عالم المالحين العجيب‪ ،‬تكّ رم دار ‪Ulysse Nardin‬‬ ‫سفينةكروزينشتيرن من خالل ساعتها الجديدة المحدودة اإلصدار والمزخرفة بالمينا‬ ‫المنقوشة بشكل مجتزع في مجموعة ‪.Classico‬‬ ‫في الواقع‪ُ ،‬صنَعت هذه السفينة الشراعية الطويلة بصواريها األربعة في‬

‫رفيع‪ ،‬حيث يُستخدم ٔاكثر من ‪ 500‬مم منه البتكار التقسيمات‪ .‬ويحتاج كل‬

‫ٔالمانيا في العام ‪ 1926‬وكانت تُعرف ٔاساس ًا باسم باداو‪ .‬وقد ٔاُعطيت ٕالى االّتحاد‬

‫قرص مزخرف بالمينا المنقوشة بشكل مجتزع ٕالى ‪ 50‬ساعةَ من العمل على يد‬

‫السوفياتي في العام ‪ 1946‬كتعويض له بعد انتصاره في الحرب‪ ،‬ؤاُدخلت في‬

‫ال عن ‪ 26‬عمليةً ٔاخرى إلنجازه‪.‬‬ ‫متمرسين وماهرين فض ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫حرفيين‬

‫ٔاسطول بحر البلطيق السوفياتي‪ .‬ونتيجةً لذلك‪ٔ ،‬اُعيدت تسمية هذه السفينة‬

‫تجدر اإلشارة ٕالى ٔان هذه الساعة تتسم بقطر يبلغ ‪ 40‬مم مزخرف بمشهد‬

‫كروزينشتيرن تيّمن ًا بالمستكشف األلماني البلطيقي ٓادم جوان كروزينشتيرن‬

‫مستوحى مباشرة من البحر‪ .‬فمع السماء الزرقاء التي تخيم فوقها واألمواج التي‬

‫الذي كان يخدم في الجيش الروسي خالل القرن التاسع عشر‪ .‬فمهام السفينة‬

‫تشق سفينة كروزينشتيرن طريقها بثبات عباب المياه‪ .‬ويراقص‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تتكسر تحتها‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬

‫ورحالتها وخدماتها ال تُعد وال ُتحصى وهي اليوم تعمل كسفينة تدريب بصورة‬

‫النسيم األشرعة الناصعة البياض التي تعلو الصواري‪ .‬وبفضل تميّز الدار في تصوير‬

‫ٔاساسية‪.‬‬

‫المشاهد المختلفة من الحياة الواقعية‪ ،‬ال بّد من االعتراف بالبراعة الفنية المثالية‬

‫وبهدف تجسيد تصميمها الحقيقي بدقّ ة‪ ،‬استخدمت ‪ Ulysse Nardin‬تقنية‬

‫التي تتفرّد بها‪.‬‬

‫الزخرفة بالمينا المنقوشة بشكل مجتزع والمعقدة للغاية‪ .‬وهي تقنية غالية‬

‫صنعت هذه الساعة يدوي ًا من الذهب الوردي واألبيض عيار ‪ 18‬قيراطاً‪ ،‬كم ُا زودت‬

‫جدا ً على قلب الدار وعشاق ابتكاراتها‪ .‬وفيها‪ ،‬تُبتكر األلوان المعتمة ٔاو الشفافة‬

‫بمعايرة ‪ UN-815‬وهي عبارةعن حركة ذاتية التدوير حائزة على شهادة الهيئة‬

‫من خالل المزج بين نسب مختلفة من العناصر للوصول ٕالى تراكيب محّ ددة‬

‫السويسرية الرسمية لمراقبة الكرونومتر‪ .‬كما تمتاز الساعة باحتياطي طاقة‬

‫سرا ً دفيناً‪ .‬ويجري التفريق بين القسم واآلخر بواسطة خيط ذهبي‬ ‫غالب ًا ما تبقى ّ‬

‫يدوم لمدة ‪ 42‬ساعةً وهي مقاومة للماء حتى عمق ‪ 50‬مترا ً‪.‬‬

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‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫عجلتـــان سريعتـــان‬

‫ساعة ‪ Scrambler‬هي أحدث تصميم من ‪ Tudor‬مستوحى من ‪Ducati‬‬ ‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫منذ سنتين‪ ،‬أطلقت دار ‪ Tudor‬ساعة ‪ Fastrider Black Shield‬وكانت هذه‬

‫األخضر الزيتي لتصميم مدني قوي واللون األحمر لمظهر كالسيكي أنيق‪ .‬تأتي‬

‫الساعة أول تجسيد لمقاربة التصميم المشترك بين دار ‪ Tudor‬وعالم رياضة‬

‫هذه الساعات مقاومة للمياه حتى عمق ‪ 150‬متراً‪ ،‬كما تأتي مزودة بغالف من‬

‫الدراجات النارية‪ .‬وتتميّز هذه الساعة بكون الغالف األوسط فيها مصنوع من‬

‫الفوالذ المضروب ويعزّزه تناقض قوي بفضل موضع الزجاجة الخزفي األسود‬

‫الخزف ومطلي باللون األسود غير الالمع ويحمل ألوان شعار ‪.Ducati Diavel‬‬

‫اللون واألزرار والتاج المعالجة بدورها بمادة ‪ PVD‬السوداء غير الالمعة‪.‬‬

‫وهذه السنة‪ ،‬تستمر دار ‪ Tudor‬بخوض تجربة المسار السريع وتقدّ م كرونوغراف‬

‫تتميّز هذه الساعة بزواياها الهندسية وتفاصيلها التي تذكّ رنا ببدن الدراجة‬

‫‪ Fastrider‬المستوحى من إحدى أشهر دراجات دوكاتي‪ Scrambler :‬وإحدى‬

‫النارية‪ ،‬وتقوم على آلية ميكانيكية ذاتية التعبئة وتتضمن مؤشر الروزنامة‪.‬‬

‫الدراجات االستثنائية والمميّزة من ‪ .Ducati‬ولقد قامت دار ‪ Tudor‬بتصميم‬

‫ولكن جمال الدراجة النارية ال ينتهي عند حدود الغالف‪ .‬وفي هذه الساعة‪ ،‬يمكن‬

‫هذه الساعة الجديدة مركّ زة على روح الحرية وقدّ متها بثالثية ألوان لتعكس‬

‫االختيار بين سوارين‪ ،‬يأتي أحدهما تجسيدا ً لسرج الدراجة النارية الجلدي‪ ،‬يمنح‬

‫نسخات دراجة ‪ Scrambler‬المختلفة‪ :‬االصفر الفاقع لون التصميم التاريخي‪،‬‬

‫الساعة مظهرا ً رياضياً‪ .‬أما السوار الثاني فمن المطاط األسود غير الالمع‪.‬‬

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‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫تأتي الساعات الجديدة الثالثة بأغلفة بأحجام ‪ 36‬ملم‪ 42 ،‬ملم‪ 44 ،‬ملم‪.‬‬ ‫الساعة التي بقطر ‪ 36‬ملم متوافرة باللون األسود‪ ،‬أو بنسخة انثوية‬ ‫مكسوة باألبيض‪ .‬من جهتها ساعة ‪ Superocean II‬الجديدة بقطر ‪٤٤‬‬ ‫ملم‪ ،‬ميناها سوداء أو زرقاء تتماشى وموضع الزجاجة والحزام‪ ،‬وغالفها‬ ‫من الفوالذ المصقول بالساتان‪ ،‬في حين النسخة التي بقطر ‪ 42‬ملم غالفها‬ ‫ملمع‪ .‬وإضافة إلى الصفات األخرى في النسخة التي بقطر ‪ 44‬ملم‪ ،‬زادت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫قدرتها على مقاومة الماء حتى عمق ‪ 1000‬متر‪ ،‬علم ًا ان كل النماذج األخرى‬ ‫تعطي الغطاس ما بين ‪ 200‬و ‪ 500‬متر مقاومة للماء‪ ،‬وذلك تبع ًا لحجم‬ ‫الساعة‪ .‬كل نموذج من ‪ Superocean II‬فيه آلية ميكانيكية ذاتية‬ ‫التعبئة ‪ Breitling Caliber 17‬الحائز على مصادقة ‪( COSC‬المعهد‬ ‫السويسري الرسمي الختبار الكرونومتر) وهذا يزيد في تأكيد النوعية‪ .‬موضع‬ ‫الزجاجة المخدد من المطاط المصبوب اآلحادي االتجاه الدوار يعرض بوضوح‬ ‫كبير أرقام ًا كبيرة الحجم مصممة لعرض العد التنازلي آلخر ‪ 15‬دقيقة من‬ ‫وقت الغطس‪ .‬ولهذه الغاية عززت الرؤية في المينا عبر ارقام عربية كبيرة‬ ‫مطلية بغطاء مشع وعبر عقارب ضخمة تشع ايض ًا في الظالم‪.‬‬ ‫تتوافر كل النماذج بتركيبات متنوعة‪ ،‬بما فيها أحزمة المطاط والجلد أو‬ ‫سوار ‪ Professional III‬من الفوالذ‪ .‬وقدمت ‪ Breitling‬أيض ًا نسخة جديدة‬ ‫مطورة من الحزام المطاطي الرياضي بامتياز ‪ Ocean Racer‬المعروف‬ ‫بصف الثقوب المحاط بنمط دائري مزخرف ومتوافر باللون األسود أو الكحلي‪.‬‬ ‫التقط «فنسان تروشيه» المصور المائي الشهير روحية ساعة‬ ‫‪ Superocean II‬وقد غطس في األعماق وهو بالطبع يرتدي ساعة‬ ‫‪ .Breitling Superocean II‬رسم تروشيه بسحر التناظر بين الحياة‬ ‫البحرية تحت الماء وبين شعار المالحة الجوية لـ ‪ Breitling‬من خالل‬ ‫اظهار اسماك القرش كنقطة أساسية في الخلفية المائية‪ .‬غير آبه‬ ‫بالمخاطر المحدقة به‪ ،‬التقط صورا ً ألسماك القرش كانها على وشك‬ ‫االقالع او الهبوط على مدرج‪ .‬في باله دائم ًا لقطة‪ ،‬ان تروشيه يملك‬ ‫القدرة على الجمع بسالسة بين جذور الطيران لـ ‪ Breitling‬وبين األساس‬ ‫البحري لساعة ‪.Superocean‬‬

‫ساعة ‪ Superocean II‬بقطر ‪ 44‬ملم مع مينا وموضع‬ ‫زجاجة وحزام باللون األزرق‪.‬‬

‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪27‬‬

‫رافقت ساعات ‪ Breitling Superocean‬الغطاسين المحترفين منذ إطالقها عام‬ ‫‪ ،1957‬ومنذ ذلك الحين أبقتها شركة الساعات السويسرية المستقلة مجهزة دائم ًا‬ ‫جملت‬ ‫بأحدث المتطلبات التقنية الخاصة بساعات الغطس الحقة‪ .‬وهذه السنة ّ‬ ‫‪ Breitling‬ساعات ‪ Superocean‬بغالف أبسط وأقل حجماً‪ ،‬وبمينا أكثر صالبة نوع ًا‬ ‫سميت ‪.Superocean II‬‬ ‫ما وبحزام جديد من المطاط‪ ،‬مبتكرة نسخة أخف ّ‬

‫ساعة ‪ Superocean II‬بقطر ‪ 44‬ملم مع مينا وموضع زجاجة‬ ‫وحزام باللون األسود‪ .‬الصورة لفنسان تروشيه لحساب ‪.Breitling‬‬

‫‪26‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫منزل ‪Hawthorne‬‬

‫التمثال‬ ‫حط األخوان بطائرة ‪ Wright Flyer III‬ولم يطيرا مجددا ً لعامين‬ ‫في العام ‪ّ ،1908‬‬ ‫ونصف العام‪ .‬وبدآ حملةً تستهدف قوات اإلشارة في الجيش األميركي لسؤالهم‬ ‫مهتمين بآلتهما الطائرة‪ .‬فر ّد الجيش بأنه ليس مهتم ًا بدعم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ما إذا كانوا‬ ‫تجاربهما فر ّد االخوان مجددا ً قائلين إنهما ال يجريان تجارب بل إن لديهما منتج ًا‬ ‫جاهزا ً‪ .‬استم ّر الوضع على هذه الحال لمدة عامين‪ ،‬ولكن لم يسمح األخوان‬ ‫بإحباط عزيمتهما وراحا يراسالن دو ًال أخرى‪ .‬وفي خالل شهرين‪ ،‬حصال على ردّين‬ ‫إيجابيين أحدهما من مجموعة رجال أعمال فرنسيين وأخيرا ً من قوات اإلشارة‬ ‫التي طلبت أن ترى ما سيقدّ مه األخوان‪ .‬ذهب ويلبور إلى فرنسا فيما ذهب‬ ‫كل منهما معه طائرةً ونصف‪ .‬بدأ‬ ‫أورفيل إلى قاعدة ماير في فيرجينيا وأخذ ّ‬ ‫األخوان عرضهما في الوقت نفسه تقريب ًا في شهر أغسطس ‪ 1908‬فحلّق أورفيل‬ ‫بالطائرة أمام شخصيات من الجيش وبحضور مدني بسيط‪ ،‬كان الفرنسيون‬

‫ينظف القماش ويعيد تثبيته‪ .‬كان‬ ‫إلزالته‪ ،‬وهذا ما كان يفعله كل سنة‪ .‬فكان ّ‬

‫قلقين من أنه في حال أجرى ويلبور تجاربه في قلب باريس‪ ،‬سيتفوّ ق كثيرا ً على‬

‫يحب أن يعمل في المنزل فمثالً‪ ،‬حفر حفرتين في هذا الكرسي‪ .‬كان‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أورفيل‬

‫المهندسين الفرنسيين اليافعين الذين يقدمون تجاربهم في الوقت نفسه‪ .‬في‬

‫العم أورف يعاني مشاكل في أسفل ظهره وجنبه وكان يجب القراءة مستخدم ًا‬

‫النهاية‪ ،‬قام ليون بولي‪ ،‬الذي يوازي هنري فورد في أوروبا‪ ،‬بدعوة ويلبور إلى مصنع‬

‫منصة القراءة والقاموس‪ ،‬فصنع حامل الكتاب هذا وثبته إلى جانب الكرسي‬

‫سياراته في لومناس في فرنسا‪ .‬وفي اليوم األول‪ ،‬انطلق ويلور وحلّق بشكل‬

‫ليتمكن من وضع كتابه على المنصة ويقلب صفحاته من جهة‪ ،‬ومن الجهة‬

‫جميل‪ ،‬وكرّر األمر على مدى عدة أيام‪ ،‬وبحلول اليوم الرابع‪ ،‬حضر التجارب أكثر‬

‫الثانية ليضع القاموس‪ .‬كان العم أورف يعبث بكل ما يتضمن قطع ًا متحرّكة؛‬

‫من عشرة آالف شخص بعد أن انتشر خبر ما يجري وبلغ باريس‪ .‬فتهافت الناس‬

‫إن كانت قطعة ميكانيكية‪ ،‬كان يفكّ كها ويدرسها ويفهمها ثم يعيد جميعها‬

‫وقصدوا لومانس متطفلين على سيارات أخرى أو سيرا ً على األقدام أو على صهوة‬

‫بنجاح‪ ،‬حتى أنه أحيان ًا كان يقوم بتعديلها‪ .‬كان يعبث باإلمدادات الكهربائية‬

‫حصان من أجل رؤية األميركي الشاب وهو يطير‪ .‬وكان هذا النجاح الواسع األول‬

‫والسمكرية في المنزل‪.‬‬

‫لطائرة رايت وظهر معه الوعد بفتح أبواب عالم الطيران على مصراعيها‪ .‬عندما‬

‫في أحد األيام‪ ،‬وصل إلى البيت فيما كنا نقوم بطالء المنزل ولم يعجبه األمر‬

‫غادر في شهر مايو‪ ،‬قدّ م الفرنسيون لألخوين هذه المنحوتة ألنهم شعروا أن‬

‫فأرسل العمال إلى بيوتهم وصنع اللون بنفسه وأنهى طالء المنزل بنفسه‪.‬‬

‫األخوين يمثالن تقنية جديدة بطريقة رائعة وراقية‪ .‬وأظن أنه في تلك اللحظة‪،‬‬

‫صمم العم أورف سجادات المنزل كلها وكان يرسل تصميمه إلى صانع‬ ‫كذلك‪ّ ،‬‬

‫كل من األخوين عرضهما ومع‬ ‫رأى قطاع الطيران النور فعالً‪ ،‬تحديدا ً عندما قدّ م ّ‬

‫سجادات إيرلندي لينفذها له‪ .‬وعندما كانت تطرأ أعطال في المنزل في غياب‬

‫تحطمت‪ .‬وقالت كتيبة الهندسة أنها ستشتري طائرة‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أن طائرة العم أورف‬

‫أورفيل‪ ،‬كان عمال التصليح يأتون ويلقون نظرة على العطل وغالب ًا ما كانوا‬

‫وبعد مرور عام بالتمام‪ ،‬عاد أورفيل ليوصل الطائرة‪ ،‬الطائرة األولى في كتيبة‬

‫ينصحوننا بانتظار عودة أورفيل ألنهم لم يكونوا يفهمون التعديالت التي أجراها‬

‫المهندسين وهي الطائرة رقم واحد بكل بساطة وإنها معروضة اليوم في‬

‫على القطعة المعطلة»‪ .‬كان والد األخوين رايت كاهن ًا في إرسالية‪ ،‬كثير األسفار‪،‬‬

‫متحف ‪.Smithsonian‬‬

‫وكان يتوقع من االخوين أن يراساله ويخبراه عما يجري في الموطن‪ .‬ومن‬ ‫أولى الرسائل‪ ،‬ال بد من أن نذكر التالية‪« :‬أبي العزيز‪ ،‬وضعت تنكةً من الماء على‬ ‫المكتب‬

‫الغاز وغلت المياه»‪ .‬أم الجملة الثانية فكانت‪« :‬نفقت الهرة القديمة‪ .‬مع حبي‪،‬‬

‫مكتب أورفيل عبارة عن غرفة تركت على حالتها األصلية تحيةً لصاحبها‬

‫كل ما كان يجري في أوتر بانكس‪ .‬وفي‬ ‫أورف»‪ .‬بفضل الرسائل‪ ،‬يمكننا أن نعرف ّ‬

‫األساسي‪ .‬تقول الين‪« :‬ال يزال المكتب كما كان في حياة أورفيل‪ .‬الجدران ليست‬

‫شبابهما‪ ،‬استمر األخوان بمراسلة والدهما‪ .‬وأخيراً‪ ،‬في ما يتعلّق بمنزل هوثورن‪،‬‬

‫مغطاة بورق جدران‪ ،‬بل بقماش أحمر داكن وصنع العم أورف معداته الخاصة‬

‫«ما زالت أمامنا الكثير من أعمال الترميم»‪.‬‬ ‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪29‬‬

‫أماندا رايت الين‪ ،‬قريبة أورفيل وويلبور رايت مع نيك إينغليش‪،‬‬ ‫المؤسس المشارك لشركة ساعات ‪Bremont‬‬

‫دار ‪ Wright‬والتحليق عالي ًا‬ ‫زيارة إلى منزل هوثورن في دايتون‪ ،‬مقر عائلة األخوين‬ ‫‪ Wright‬منذ نحو أربعين عاماً‪.‬‬ ‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫إن جولةً في منزل هوثورن في دايتون أوهايو برفقة أماندا رايت الين إنما هي بمثابة‬

‫رايت في أميركا‪ .‬لم تتوانى الين عن تزيين حديثها بألقاب تحبّب مثل «العم أورف»‬

‫رحلة عبر الزمن‪ .‬فالين هي قريبة أورفيل وويلبور رايت‪ ،‬رائدي عالم الطيران اللذين‬

‫أو «العم ويل» وقد ألقت في حديثها الضوء على أحداث جرت بعد رحلة األخوين‬

‫عاشت عائلتهما في هذا المنزل ألكثر من ثالثة عقود ونصف‪ ،‬إنها تعرف تفاصيل‬

‫الجوية الشهيرة األولى في كيتي هاوك في كارولينا الشمالية والتي أتت ثمرة‬

‫عن حياة أشهر فردين من عائلتها (هي حفيدة لورين األخ األكبر ألورفيل وويلبور)‬

‫سنوات من العمل في مشاغل دايتون المجاورة‪ .‬وكان األخوان قد بنيا منزل‬

‫ثمة تفاصيل عندها عن حياتهما في منزل دايتون ال نجدها في كتب التاريخ‪.‬‬

‫هوثورن عام ‪ 1914‬على مسافة تمتد على ‪ 17‬أكر وتحوّ ل البناء في ما بعد ليصبح‬

‫تقول الين‪« :‬ال يفكّ ر الناس في ما حصل بعد تصمت الحكايات في كتب التاريخ‬

‫منزل أورفيل وشقيقته الصغرى كاثرين ووادهما األب ميلتون رايت‪.‬‬

‫والتي تنتهي في ‪ 17‬ديسمبر ‪ 1903‬في تمام الساعة العاشرة و‪ 35‬دقيقة عندما‬

‫وقد توفي ويبلور في بشكل مأساوي عام ‪ 1912‬جراء إصابته بحمى التيفويد‬

‫حلّق األخوان برحلتهما الجوية األولى التي دامت ‪ 12‬ثانية‪ .‬ولكن صناعة الطيران‬

‫قبل البدء بأعمال البناء وبالتالي‪ ،‬لم يعش ويلبور في المنزل الذي كان عنصرا ً‬

‫بدأت تتطوّ ر اعتبارا ً من تلك اللحظة‪ ،‬فشهدت األعوام ما بين ‪ 1908‬و‪ 1910‬الفترة‬

‫أساسي ًا في تصميمه‪ .‬يرتفع منزل هوثورن في منطقة أوكوود الكثيفة األشجار‬

‫األكثر نشاط ًا في حياة األخوين رايت‪ .‬فقد بدأ األخوان ببناء أعمالهما في أوروبا‬

‫في دايتون‪ ،‬ويعتبر معلم ًا تاريخي ًا ووطني ًا من ضمن اإلرث الوطني في مجال‬

‫واكتساب حقوق امتياز إذا أردنا تسميتها هكذا‪ ،‬من أجل بناء مصنع الطائرات‬

‫الطيران ومنطقةً محمية وطنية فيدرالية لينضم بالتالي إلى أكثر من ‪ 15‬موقع‬

‫األول في أميركا‪ ،‬هنا في دايتون‪ ،‬كما أنهما أعدّ ا لتأسيس مدارس لتعليم الطيران‬

‫محمي مرتبط بالطيران في دايتون‪ .‬يفتح المنزل أبوابه للزوار مرتين في األسبوع‪.‬‬

‫منذ ذلك الحين خاصة‪ ،‬وأنهما الطياران األوالن وال أحد سواهما يجيد الطيران وال‬

‫وقد بدأت الين جولتها لنا إلى يمين المدخل الواسع‪ ،‬إلى اليسار غرفة طعام‬

‫بد من تدريب عناصر أخرى للقيام بذلك»‪ .‬وقدّ مت الين أخيرا ً جولة خاصة في‬

‫رسمية‪ ،‬وساللم خشبية واسعة إلى األمام‪ .‬إلى اليمين‪ ،‬يستطيع الزوار رؤية‬

‫منزل هوثورن‪ ،‬فيما كشفت شركة الساعات البريطانية ‪ Bremont‬عن ساعتها‬

‫منحوتة برونزية شامخة تعرف باسم ‪ Muse of Aviation‬أو ملهمة الطيران‬

‫‪ Wright Flyer‬في دايتون‪ ،‬علم ًا أنه من المفترض أن يعود ريع مبيعات هذه‬

‫وقد صنعها عام ‪ 1909‬الفنان الفرنسي لويس ألبير كالفان ويظهر في أسفلها‬

‫الساعة لتمويل صيانة البيت التي تشرف عليها مؤسسة عائلة رايت واألخوين‬

‫مجسم لطائرة رايت األولى‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪28‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫كـــــاسيـــو‬ ‫وإزدهــار اإلبتكـــارات‬ ‫أعلنت شركة كاسيو مؤخرا ً عن إطالق أحدث موديالتها من تشكيلتها الرئيسية‬ ‫‪ MR-G‬من خط «جي شوك» للساعات المقاومة للصدمات‪ .‬تتميز ساعة جي‬ ‫شوك ‪ MRG-G1000RT‬بخليط ‪ Ti64‬المبلور‪ *2‬للتعبير عن جودة عينة‬

‫‪*1‬‬

‫ساعة ‪G-Shock MRG-G1000RT‬‬

‫‪nie‬‬

‫التي تعد واحدة من األساليب التي تمثل السيوف اليابانية‪ ،‬وسيتم إنتاج الموديل‬ ‫في إصدار محدود من ‪ 100‬ساعة فقط تتوفر حول العالم‪ .‬ويعيد اإلصدار الجديد من‬

‫مجموعة ‪Oceanus OCW-G1000‬‬

‫كاسيو إلى األذهان قصص الساموراي من التراث الياباني‪ .‬تحتل سلسلة ‪MR-G‬‬ ‫قمة خط جي شوك الذي يتضمن التقنية المتطورة والمواد الفاخرة المستخدمة‬ ‫لتحقيق المتانة المطلقة وتصنع بأقصى اهتمام وتركيز على التفاصيل‪.‬‬ ‫ترث ساعة ‪ G-SHOCK MRG-G1000RT‬الجديدة سمات الموديل الذي‬ ‫ترتكز عليه (‪ – )G-SHOCK MRG-G1000‬نظام متقدم الحتساب التوقيت‬ ‫يستقبل النظام العالمي لتحديد المواقع ‪ GPS‬وإشارات الموجات الالسلكية‬ ‫لتعيير الوقت‪ ،‬كما توفر ميناء مزدوجة للتوقيت العالمي‪ ،‬تعرض التوقيت في‬ ‫منطقتين مختلفتين في نفس الوقت‪ .‬تم تطوير تصميم ‪MRG-G1000RT‬‬ ‫«صنع في اليابان»‪ ،‬للتعبير عن الفخر بأصول جي شوك كعالمة يابانية‪.‬‬ ‫تحت شعار ُ‬ ‫مستوحاة من عينة «‪ »nie‬التي تعد سمة للسيوف اليابانية وتمثل ذروة حرفية‬ ‫التصنيع اليابانية‪ ،‬تم تصنيع الطارة واللوح المعدني من خليط ‪ Ti64‬المشدد‬ ‫بعملية إعادة البلورة‪ .‬تضفي هذه العملية على الطارة واللوح المعدني تشطيب ًا‬ ‫ثري ًا ينعكس بشكل رقيق في الضوء‪ .‬تتميز ساعة ‪ MRG-G1000RT‬ببطانة‬ ‫‪« DLC*3‬اليابان األزرق» الداكنة التي تغير التعبير بشكل رائع وفقا لزاوية الرؤية‪ ،‬ما‬ ‫«صنع في اليابان»‪ ،‬تحتوي‬ ‫يكسب الساعة لون ًا ناضج ًا وجذاباً‪ .‬وتأكيدا ً على أصول ٌ‬

‫شهرة عالمية بالجمع بين أحدث التقنيات دون جهد وبين دقة التصميم الفاخر‬

‫الساعة على سمات أسلوب أخرى مستوحاة من ألوان حرفية التصنيع اليابانية‬

‫واألسلوب العصري‪ .‬وتعد ساعة ‪ Oceanus OCW-G100‬الجديدة أول ساعة‬

‫التقليدية مثل نقش المعدن‪ ،‬مع مسامير أمامية بلون الذهب وعالمات المؤشر‬

‫تهيئ النظام الهجين الفريد في علبة تيتانيوم ببطانة ‪ TiC‬المقواة لتجعل‬

‫في واجهة الساعة‪.‬‬

‫المعدن أكثر مقاومة للخدوش‪ .‬وبكبسة زر يمكن للساعة الوصول إلى معلومات‬ ‫الموقع الدقيقة وتحديد منطقة التوقيت وضبط فروق التوقيت الصيفي‪ .‬وفي‬ ‫جديد ‪Oceanus‬‬

‫ثوان فقط تصحح الساعة التوقيت باستخدام إما إشارات ‪GPS‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫غضون سبع‬

‫تشكيلة ‪ Oceanus‬الجديدة من الساعات المعدنية تعمل بالطاقة الشمسية‬

‫أو إشارات الموجات الالسلكية لتعيير الوقت‪ ،‬حسب مكان المستخدم‪ .‬كما‬

‫والتي يتم التحكم فيها بالموجات الالسلكية والمصممة لتجسد جوهر األناقة‬

‫تتميز الساعات الجديدة بوظيفة ميناء التوقيت العالمي المزدوج الذي يسمح‬

‫والتقنية‪ .‬وقد تم تزويد هذه الساعات بنظام هجين أصلي الحتساب التوقيت‬

‫يبسط‬ ‫للمستخدمين بتأكيد التوقيت بالتزامن في مدينتين مختلفتين‪ ،‬وهو ما ّ‬

‫طورته كاسيو ليستقبل كال من إشارات النظام العالمي لتحديد المواقع ‪GPS‬‬

‫السفر حول العالم‪.‬‬

‫وإشارات الموجات الالسلكية لتعيير الوقت‪ ،‬والتي تمكّ ن الساعات من تحديد‬

‫إلى جانب ذلك تم تزويد ساعات ‪ Oceanus‬الجديدة بخاليا شمسية لتوزيع‬

‫موقع المستخدم الحالي في أي مكان بالعالم وتقوم بتصحيح الوقت وفق ًا‬

‫الظل والتي تقوم باستقبال الضوء بكفاءة باستخدام منطقة سطحية أصغر‪.‬‬

‫لذلك بكبسة زر‪ .‬وتتميز ساعات ‪ Oceanus‬بوظائف التوقيت العالمي سهلة‬

‫تمكّ ن هذه التقنية كاسيو من إنتاج تصميم واجهة لساعة أنيقة ذات كفاءة‬

‫االستخدام كما أنها مجهزة الستقبال إشارات ‪ GPS‬والموجات الالسلكية‬

‫عالية‪ .‬تحتوي الواجهة على بلور زفير مزدوج االنحناء ببطانة غير عاكسة على كال‬

‫لتعيير الوقت التي يتم بثها من خالل ست محطات حول العالم‪ .‬وتعد تشكيلة‬

‫الجانبين لوضوح الرؤية‪ ،‬كما تم تشطيب العلبة بلمعان ‪ Sallaz‬ليضفي عليها‬

‫‪ Oceanus‬أحدث إبداعات المهندسين الجريئين في كاسيو الذين اكتسبوا‬

‫ال المعاً‪.‬‬ ‫شك ً‬

‫‪30‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫مهنة جون آرنولد البريطاني المولد كانت مرتبطة ارتباط ًا وثيق ًا بالبحر من خالل‬ ‫إنتاجه آلالت ضبط الوقت بدقة‪ ،‬وقد قدم أول كرونومتر بحري إلى مجلس خط‬ ‫الطول ‪ Longitude of Board‬عام ‪ .1770‬وكان ذلك المجلس وكالة بريطانية‬ ‫شكلت عام ‪ 1714‬بهدف تشجيع المبدعين إليجاد حل لمشكلة معرفة خط‬ ‫الطول في البحر‪ ،‬منح المجلس أرنولد واحدة من عدد كبير من الجوائز التي حصل‬ ‫عليها على مر السنين‪ .‬رافقت كرونومترات أرنولد عددا ً كبيرا ً من البحارة الرفيعي‬ ‫المستوى في رحالتهم االستكشافية في القرن الثامن عشر‪ ،‬وأصبح المورّد‬ ‫الرئيس للكرونومترات البحرية لدى البحرية الملكية البريطانية وشركة الهند‬ ‫الشرقية‪ ،‬مما ساعد اإلمبراطورية البريطانية في طريقها للتوسع في الخارج‪.‬‬ ‫وكان أرنولد وابنه‪ ،‬روجر‪ ،‬أول من طور وإنتج الكرونومترات البحرية العالية الجودة‬ ‫ولكن بأسعار معقولة وبكميات كبيرة‪.‬‬ ‫ساعة دقة جديدة‬ ‫ساعة ‪ Constant Force Tourbillon‬المحدودة النسخ‪ ،‬التي أطلقت في‬ ‫بازل ورلد هذا العام‪ ،‬تحيي الكرونومترات البحرية التاريخية لـ ‪.Arnold & Son‬‬ ‫عند أعلى المينا أسطوانتا النابض الرئيسي وجهاز القوة الثابتة الحائز على براءة‬

‫في البحار‬

‫اختراع‪ ،‬تمنح الطاقة القصوى لتوربيون الستين ثانية عند أسفل المينا‪ .‬وعوض‬

‫إن شركتي ‪ Arnold & Son‬و ‪ Northrop & Johnson‬الرائدتان كل في‬

‫استخدام اسطوانة نابض واحدة التي من شأنها انتاج كميات مختلفة من‬

‫مجالها‪ ،‬قدمتا مؤخرا ً شراكة عالمية قامت لتقدم لزبائن من مستوى رفيع‬

‫الفتل بين التعبئة الكاملة وما يقرب الفراغ‪ ،‬فإن في ساعة ‪Constant Force‬‬

‫األفضل في الساعات وفي اليخوت‪ .‬وعن ذلك يقول كيفن ميرغان رئيس‬

‫‪ Tourbillon‬اسطوانتين متناظرتين بتسلسل‪ ،‬ومرئيتين عند موضع الساعة‬

‫‪« Northrop & Johnson‬نحن نعتقد أن الخبرة والدراية في صناعتنا متداخلة‬

‫‪ 10.30‬و‪ .1.30‬إن االسطوانة األولى للنابض تقوم وحدها بتزويد سلسلة المسننات‬

‫مع النوع الحق من الشراكات مما يجعل منا ومن شركائنا في قطاع مستلزمات‬

‫بالطاقة‪ ،‬في وقت تقوم االسطوانة الثانية بتعزيز قوة‬

‫الحياة الفاخرة أكثر قوة ونفوذا ً‪ .‬والمشروع يعطي‬

‫االسطوانة األولى عندما تتراجع فيها القدرة على الفتل‪.‬‬

‫‪ Arnold & Son‬فرصة لالستفادة من ماضيها‬

‫بد ًال من الطاقة من النابض الرئيسي لتغذية مباشرة إلى‬

‫البحري العميق الجذور‪ ،‬فرصة ذهبية للمشاركة في‬

‫ميزان ‪ /‬توربيون‪ ،‬فإنه يكلف نابض شعري صغير للتغذية‬

‫عالم اليخوت ومعارضها الرئيسة‪ .‬وتشمل هذه‬

‫بالطاقة والذي بدوره يطلق كمية كافية من الطاقة‬

‫ميامي (فبراير وديسمبر)‪ ،‬بالم بيتش (مارس) وكان‬

‫إلى ميزان ‪ /‬توربيون لمرة واحدة كل ثانية‪ .‬كما ان هذا‬

‫ال‬ ‫وموناكو (سبتمبر) وفورت لودرديل (نوفمبر)‪ ،‬فض ً‬

‫الجهاز يغذي أيض ًا عقرب الثواني الدقيق‪ .‬عندما تنخفض‬

‫عن معرض ‪.Art Basel Miami‬‬

‫الطاقة من النابض الرئيسي أقل من المطلوب من قبل‬

‫وعن ذلك يقول فابيان دوتريو‪ ،‬نائب رئيس المبيعات‬

‫آلية القوة الثابتة‪ ،‬تتوقف اآللية عوض االستمرار بصورة‬

‫في شركة ‪« :Arnold & Son‬وجودنا في هذه‬

‫أقل دقة‪ .‬تعتمد هذه الساعة على آلية ‪A&S5119‬‬

‫المعارض سوف تعطينا إمكانية الوصول المباشر‬

‫مع جسور مشطوبة يدوي ًا وحواف مصقولة وأسطح‬

‫إلى مجموعة عمالء متميزين‪ ،‬سوف نكون قادرين‬

‫ملمعة‪ ،‬وبراغ «شاتون» من الذهب وبراغ ذات رؤوس‬ ‫ّ‬

‫على عرض ساعاتنا من خالل عروض خاصة في بيئة‬

‫مشطوبة ومصقولة كالمرآة‪ .‬كما ان قفص التوربيون‬

‫ساحرة‪ .‬كما أن المجالت والشبكات االجتماعية‬

‫مصقول كالمرآة مع حواف مشطوبة يدوي ًا ومصقولة‬

‫والمجتمعات االفتراضية ستكون أيض ًا جزءا ً من‬

‫لماعة‪ .‬والساعة ذات الغالف بقطر ‪ 46‬ملم‪،‬‬ ‫واسطح ّ‬ ‫غالفها الخلفي شفاف‪.‬‬ ‫‪32‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Constant Force Tourbillon Limited Edition‬‬

‫الشراكة‪ ،‬واضعة المتتبعين في صورة أحدث التطورات‬ ‫في األنشطة المشتركة بيننا‪».‬‬

“My “My designs designs come come from from my my “My designs come from my passion, passion, my my passion passion passion, my for forms” forpassion forms” “My designs come from my for forms”

passion, my passion for forms”

OT-1 OT-1 optional Dietrich optional Dietrich Carbon Strap OT-1 Carbon Strap optional Dietrich Carbon Strap

Emmanuel Emmanuel Dietrich Dietrich Emmanuel Dietrich Artist, Creator. Artist, Designer, Designer, Creator. Artist, Designer, Creator.

Emmanuel Dietrich Artist, Designer, Creator.

Dietrich Factory GmbH - Boesch 41 - 6300 Hueneberg - Switzerland - Tel: +41 41 711 04 20 - email: contact@dietrich.luxury - www.dietrich.luxury Dietrich Factory OT-1 GmbH - Boesch 41 - 6300 Hueneberg - Switzerland - Tel: +41 41 711 04 20 - email: contact@dietrich.luxury - www.dietrich.luxury

optional Dietrich Dietrich Factory GmbH - Boesch 41 - 6300 Hueneberg - Switzerland - Tel: +41 41 711 04 20 - email: contact@dietrich.luxury - www.dietrich.luxury Carbon Strap

‫يوم األرض و ‪Jaeger-LeCoultre‬‬

‫‪JAEGER-LECOULTRE‬‬

‫تحية لليوم الخامس واألربعين لألرض في ‪ 22‬أبريل الماضي‪،‬‬

‫إن كرونوغراف ‪ Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2‬مذهل‬

‫أعادت شركة ‪ Jaeger-LeCoultre‬التأكيد على التزامها‬

‫بُني ليجابه اعماق البحار‪ .‬نموذج الغطس الجديد هذا يتفوق حتى على مجموعات ساعات‬

‫بشراكتها الطويلة األمد مع اليونسكو لحماية ستة وأربعين‬

‫غطس ‪ Jaeger-LeCoultre‬التاريخية مثل ساعة ‪ Memovox Deep Sea‬أو ساعة‬

‫موقع ًا بحري ًا على قائمة التراث العالمي لليونسكو‪ ،‬وذلك من‬

‫‪ .Geophysic‬ان الساعة المعقدة الجديدة فيها عداد رقمي حائز على براءة اختراع‪ ،‬مع دقائق‬

‫خالل عدد كبير من االحتفاالت في جميع أنحاء العالم (الحظوا‬

‫نطاطة مصممة للكرونوغراف‪ ،‬ووظيفة انتقاء متداخلة بالتاج ‪ ،‬وتوقيت غرينيتش ومؤشر‬

‫أن صورة ‪ Extreme Lab 2‬ال عالقة لها مباشرة بأنشطة‬

‫احتياطي طاقة اشعاعي جديد‪ .‬ال تحتاج هذه الساعة إلى اقفال التاج من أجل الحفاظ على‬

‫الماركة الخاصة باليونسكو‪ ،‬على رغم أنها قد يكون ارتداؤها‬

‫مقاومتها للماء‪ ،‬ولكن بمجرد الضغط على القطعة المتداخلة بالتاج يمكن لحامل الساعة‬

‫مناسب ًا كونها مقاومة للماء للطقس عند زيارة أي من تلك‬

‫أن يجعل الضوابط الثالثة للساعة تعمل‪ .‬أما الوضع «المتعادل» فيسمح لحامل الساعة‬

‫المواقع)‪.‬‬

‫بلف االسطوانة بينما الوضع المضاف يسمح بتعديالت لمنطقة التوقيت الرئيسة وتوقيت‬

‫وكما تقول اليونسكو‪ ،‬فإن هذه المواقع «تعتبر تاج جواهر‬

‫غرينيتش والتاريخ من خالل لف التاج السيراميك األسود‪ .‬ويمكن تعديل التاريخ والوقت إلى‬

‫المحيط»‪ ،‬وتغطي نحو ربع مساحة الستة آالف منطقة من‬

‫األمام أو الى الخلف على حد سواء‪ .‬وكما هنالك ثمة امر اخر غير معتاد انه عرض الحتياطي‬

‫المناطق المحمية البحرية على هذا الكوكب‪ .‬وتؤكد اليونسكو‬

‫طاقة اشعاعي ‪ 180‬درجة حائز على براءة‬

‫على موقعها اإللكتروني «من األهمية بمكان ضمان أن يكون‬

‫اختراع‪ ،‬موجود على الحافة العليا للمينا‪،‬‬

‫لدى جميع المواقع البحرية نظام إداري فعال في المكان‪ ،‬يحمي‬

‫إنه يُبرز ما تبقى من الستين ساعة معدل‬

‫بشكل كاف قيمتها العالمية المتميزة‪».‬‬

‫احتياطي الطاقة‪ .‬وهنالك ايض ًا وظيفة‬

‫وقد كانت ‪ Jaeger-LeCoultre‬شريكة مع المنظمة منذ‬

‫اخرى غير اعتيادية في طريقة ضبط‬

‫عام ‪ 2008‬عندما انضمت اليهما الشريكة اإلعالمية صحيفة‬

‫الوقت في هذا النموذج‪ ،‬يمكن لحامله‬

‫انترناشيونال هيرالد تريبيون (تعرف اآلن باسم نيويورك تايمز‬

‫ايقاف عقرب الثواني عبر تحريك الجهاز‬

‫الدولية) التي عينت للقيام بحملة إعالمية اطلق عليها اسم‬

‫ودفعه على طول الجانب األيسر من‬

‫المد والجزر‪ ،‬من اجل رفع مستوى الوعي لحماية المواقع‬

‫الغالف من اجل ضبط الوقت المرتجى‪،‬‬

‫الطبيعية البحرية االستثنائية‪.‬‬

‫وبمجرد اطالق الجهاز تستمر الثواني‪.‬‬

‫منذ ذلك الوقت‪ ،‬بدأت شركة ‪ Jaeger-LeCoultre‬األنشطة‬

‫وعمود عجلة الساعة الخاضع للمراقبة‬

‫الرامية إلى رفع مستوى الوعي من أجل المحافظة على البيئة‬

‫في كرونوغراف ‪Jaeger-LeCoultre‬‬

‫البحرية والمساعدة في الحفاظ على هذه األماكن المحيطية‬

‫‪ ، 780 Calibre‬من الممكن الوصول اليه‬

‫االستثنائية‪ .‬وقد وفرت المزادات السنوية‪ ،‬التي تنظمها‬

‫حتى لو ان المستخدم يرتدي القفازات‪،‬‬

‫‪ Jaeger-LeCoultre‬أرباح مالية مباشرة لعدد كبير من مواقع‬

‫فليس عليه سوى ضغط العتلتين‬

‫التراث العالمي بما في ذلك بارك توباتا المرجاني الطبيعي‪ ،‬ملجأ‬

‫المطاطتيتين المتصلتين بالتاج وهما‬

‫مالبيلو للحيوانات والنباتات وبارك نهر بورتو برنسيسا الجوفي‪.‬‬

‫على شكل حرف الالم بالالتينية‪.‬‬

‫‪34‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Vanguard Carbon‬‬ ‫تعتبر هذه الساعة أول ساعات فرانك مولر التي تحتوي غالف ًا مصنوع ًا من الكربون‪ ،‬انه مادة خفيفة الوزن‬ ‫كثيرا ً تستخدم في الصناعات العسكرية وصناعات السيارات والسفن والطائرات لمتانتها وخفة وزنها‪ .‬وتمنح‬ ‫ال في‬ ‫هذه المادة الغالف مظهرا ً عصري ًا جدا ً وتقدّ م بالتالي لهواة جمع ساعات فرانك مولر خيارا ً جديدا ً متثم ً‬ ‫ساعة ‪ Vanguard‬رياضية بامتياز‪ .‬يبلغ مقاس غالف هذه الساعة ‪ 53،7 x 44‬ملم ويحتوي على مينا سوداء‬ ‫مصقولة مصنوعة من خاليا الورنيش وتظهر عليها أرقام الساعات؛ وتأتي هذه الساعة مرفقةً بسوار من‬ ‫قماش كوردورا على سوار مطاطي تظهر عليه درزات ملوّ نة‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Vanguard Lady‬‬ ‫استوحيت هذه الساعة من منحنيات غالف ‪ ، Cintree Curvex‬انها ساعة نسائية جديدة تعتبر التجسيد‬ ‫األنثوي الجديد لتصميم ‪ Vanguard‬وتحمل اسم ‪ ،Vanguard Lady‬وتركّ ز على المينا الغنية التي تحمل‬ ‫زخارف على شكل أشعة الشمس‪ ،‬كما انها مزيّنة بأرقام باللونين الزهري واألبيض‪ .‬أبقى هذا التصميم‬ ‫النسائي على حجم الغالف نفسه أي ‪ 53,7 x 44‬ملم ولكن تتوافر منها نسخ حيث نجد الغالف مرصع ًا‬ ‫بالماس إضافة إلى تاج زهري اللون‪ .‬تأتي ساعة ‪ Vanguard Lady‬مزوّدة بسوار مطاطي أو جلدي تظهر عليه‬ ‫درزات باللون الزهرين‪ ،‬وتقوم على آلية كوارتز وتتوافر من مادتي الفوالذ والذهب الزهري‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Seven Days Power Reserve Skeleton with Diamonds‬‬ ‫تقوم هذه اآللية على آلية يدوية التعبئة من صنع فرانك مولر نفسه وتتمتع بقدرة استثنائية على حفظ‬ ‫الطاقة لمدة ‪ 7‬أيام وكانت أولى تصاميم هذه المجموعة قد أطلقت قبل عدة سنوات‪ .‬صدرت نسخة‬ ‫مرصعة بالماس لتقدّ م المجموعة بالتالي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫هيكلية من هذه الساعة في العام الماضي وقد باتت اليوم‬ ‫سلسلة كاملةً من الخيارات‪ .‬تقوم آلية ‪ 1740‬على اسطوانتين محفوظتين داخل غالف ‪Cintree Curvex‬‬ ‫الدائري الذي يبلغ قطره ‪ 45‬ملم وتحتوي على نابض دقيق جدا ً من صنع بريغيه وبرغي توازن إضافة إلى آلية‬ ‫بنمط بطيء (‪ 18‬ألف ضربة في الساعة) مما يسمح للناظر باالستمتاع بالنظر إلى اآللية‪ .‬ويسمح التصميم‬ ‫الهيكلي برؤية الجسور اليدوية الصنع األساسية لحصول القطعة على صفة ساعة راقية‪ .‬إشارةً إلى أنه تتوافر‬ ‫من هذه الساعة نسخة مصنوعة من الفوالذ‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Bridge-Set Giga Tourbillon‬‬ ‫جذبت مجموعة ‪ Giga‬عاشقي آليات التوربيون بفضل التوربيون الضخم الذي تحتويه والذي يبلغ قطره‬ ‫‪ 20‬ملم ونجده هنا يحصل على معاملة ملوكية متأللئة‪ .‬فقد قام فرانك مولر بترصيع ـ‪ 56‬حجر الماس‬ ‫بما مجموعه ‪ 0،32‬قيراط على اإلطار الدوار لساعة ‪ Giga Tourbillon‬التي تتميّز بدورها بشاكوش فرانك‬ ‫مولر الخاص الذي حازت الشركة براءة اختراعه‪ .‬وبما أنه من شأن وزن الماسات أن يؤثر على نبض التوربيون‬ ‫المصنوع من التيتانيوم‪ ،‬ابتكر صانعو الساعات لدى فرانك مولر أسلوب ترصيع بالبرغلة ‪sertissage à‬‬ ‫فتم ترصيع اإلطار بالماسا مما قلّص من ارتفاع الماسات ووزنها‪ .‬وكما في السابق‪ ،‬تقوم هذه اآللية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪grain‬‬ ‫كل منها ‪ 16‬ملم (انها بالتالي أكبر بـ‪ 4‬ملم من البراميل التقليدية)‪ .‬بالمقابل‪،‬‬ ‫على ‪ 4‬براميل يبلغ مقاس ّ‬ ‫كاف لتأمل شاكوش اآللية البطيئة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫تسمح قدرة هذه الساعة على حفظ الطاقة لمدة ‪ 9‬أيام بتوفير وقت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التي تظهر اآلن تحت الهيكل‬ ‫المرصع باألحجار الكريمة‪ .‬يبلغ مقاس هذه الساعة ‪ 59،2 x 43،7‬ملم وتتوافر‬ ‫ال بغالف مرصع بالماس فيما تتميّز‬ ‫ضمن نسخ مختلفة‪ ،‬فتتميّز النسخة المصنوعة من الذهب األبيض مث ً‬ ‫مرصع بالماس‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫النسخة المصنوعة من الذهب الزهري بمينا بيضاء اللون وغالف‬ ‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

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‫المعرض العالمي للساعات الراقية ‪2015‬‬ ‫في المعرض العالمي للساعات الراقية ‪ 2015‬في جانتو‪ ،‬قام ‪Franck Muller‬‬

‫بتوسيع مجموعة ‪ Vanguard‬وأطلق ساعة ‪ Master Banker‬الجديدة‬ ‫كما قام بترصيع جسر ساعة ‪ Giga‬بالماس‪.‬‬

‫من مايكل ثومبسون‬

‫‪Master Banker‬‬ ‫كانت ساعة ‪ Master Banker‬من ‪ Franck Muller‬ساعة المال الذكية بالنسبة لعدد كبير من أرباب‬ ‫القطاعات المالية في العالم‪ .‬وكانت التصاميم األولى من هذه المجموعة أطلقت قبل عشرين عام ًا‬ ‫وسرعان ما أصبحت من أهم مقتنيات فرانك مولر وأكثرها شعبية‪ .‬وللمساعدة في االحتفال بالعيد العشرين‬ ‫للماركة‪ ،‬يقدّ م فرانك مولر في العام ‪ 2015‬ساعة ‪ .Master Banker Index Map‬وكما في التصاميم‬ ‫األصلية‪ ،‬تعرض ساعة ‪ Master Banker‬الجديدة للتوقيت في ثالث مناطق زمنية مختلفة ويمكن تعديل‬ ‫التوقيت فيها كلها بواسطة التاج نفسه‪ .‬ويستطيع واضع الساعة أن يرى الوقت في منطقة البورصة التي‬ ‫يختارها في أي مكان في العالم‪ .‬أما المينا فتعرض للتوقيت في موطن واضع الساعة في وسطها (بالساعات‬ ‫والدقائق) إضافة إلى منطقتين مختلفتين من خالل ميناتين صغيرتين تشيران للوقت بالساعات والدقائق‬ ‫في موقع الرقمين ‪ 6‬و‪ .12‬تتزيّن المينا في هذه الساعة بزخارف على شكل أشعة الشمس‪ ،‬إضافة إلى خريطة‬ ‫العالم إللقاء الضوء على رؤيا الساعة بشكل أفضل‪ .‬تأتي هذه الساعة بغالف من الذهب األبيض أو الفوالذ أو‬ ‫البالتين ويبلغ مقاسها ‪43،3‬‬

‫‪x‬‬

‫‪ 60،5‬ملم وتتميّز النسخة الجديدة منها ببعض النفحات الزرقاء إضافة‬

‫إلى مؤشرات ‪ /‬أرقام كبيرة وعريضة ومضيئة مما يمنح الساعة مظهرا ً رياضي ًا أكثر مقارنةً مع التصميم‬ ‫األساسي أو حتى النسخ التي تقلّدها التي صدرها في العقود الماضية‪ .‬تتاوفر الساعات في هذه المجموعة‬ ‫مع إمكانية ترصيعها بالماس وهي تقوم على آلية أوتوماتيكية وتأتي مرفقةً بسوار ملوّ ن من جلد التمساح‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Vanguard Gravity‬‬ ‫لطالما كان الغالف المحدّ ب ‪ Curvex‬من أشهر تصاميم فرانك مولر وكانت الشركة قد أطلقت في العام‬ ‫تضم غالف ‪ Curvex‬األكبر حجم ًا (‪ 44‬ملم مقابل ‪36‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الماضي مجموعة ‪ ،Vanguard‬انها مجموعة رياضية‬ ‫ملم) وتاج أكبر حجم ًا أيضاً‪ .‬أما هذه السنة‪ ،‬فقد قام فرانك مولر بتوسيع هذه المجموعة مضيف ًا إليها ثالث‬ ‫نسخ جديدة‪ Vanguard Gravity :‬و ‪ Vanguard Carbon‬و ‪ .Vanguard Lady‬تجمع ساعة ‪Vanguard‬‬ ‫‪ Gravity‬بين خبرات فرانك مولر كصانع ألكبر آليات التوربيون مع غالف ‪ Vanguard‬الرياضي الجديد هذا‪.‬‬ ‫يحتل أكثر من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وفيما ال نجد أي عنصر تقليدي في هذا التوربيون وفتحاته ال سيما من حيث الحجم حيث أنه‬ ‫نصف مساحة المينا‪ ،‬إال أن اآللية بدورها ليست تقليدية ال من حيث شكلها وال المواد المستخدمة فيها‪.‬‬ ‫يضم هذا الغالف قفص توربيون ضخم يبلغ مقاسم ‪ 21،2‬ملم‪ ،‬انه ليس دائري الشكل ومصنوع من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إذا ً‬ ‫تحتل آلية التوربيون كامل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األلمنيوم وليس من التيتانيوم أو الفوالذ‪ .‬أما عجلة التوازن‪ ،‬فيبلغ قطرها ‪ 14‬ملم‪.‬‬ ‫كل ستين دقيقة‪ .‬ويمكن رؤية اآللية كاملةً من الجهتين‬ ‫القسم األسفل من المينا‪ ،‬وهو يدور مرةّ واحدة ّ‬ ‫مبطن بالمطاط ومصنوع من مواد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األمامية والخلفية عبر بلورة صفير زرقاء‪ .‬تأتي هذه الساعة مرفقةً بسوار‬ ‫مختلفة منها جلد التمساح أو القماش العادي‪ ،‬فيما يتاوفر الغالف من البالتين أو الذهب الزهري او األبيض‪.‬‬ ‫وإن لم تكن هذه الخيارات كافية‪ ،‬يسمح فرانك مولر لواضع الساعة باالختيار بين ‪ 6‬ألوان إلضفاء بصمة‬ ‫شخصية على جسر آلية التوربيون‪.‬‬ ‫‪36‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫صف األلماس على‬ ‫الخواتم الجديدة المتوفّ رة من الخزف األسود أو األبيض‪ ،‬ويعزّزها ّ‬ ‫مما يبرز النمط األنيق للشعار الدائري المزدوج‪ .‬أما القالدات الجديدة والبرّاقة‬ ‫الحواف ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالذهب الزهري‪ ،‬المتوفرة من الخزف األبيض واألسود مع رصف من األلماس على‬ ‫ويتم التعبير عن الشكل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحواف‪ ،‬فهي مستوحاة من الخواتم الحديثة التصميم‪.‬‬ ‫بشكل إضافيّ من خالل أساور ناعمة جديدة – من الذهب الزهري أو األبيض‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫اللولبي‬ ‫صف من األلماس داخل الشكل اللولبي‪ ،‬أو بإصدار من الذهب الزهري – يُمكن‬ ‫مع ّ‬ ‫ارتداؤها أيض ًا مع الخواتم‪.‬‬ ‫أيقونة أبديّة‬ ‫تم إطالقها في‬ ‫يجمع التصميم الصناعي الراديكالي لمجموعة ‪ B.ZERO1‬التي ّ‬ ‫نهاية العام ‪ ،1999‬بين ميزتَين أساس ّيتَين أليقونيّة ‪ ،Bulgari‬وهما نمط توبوغاس‬ ‫وشعار ‪ BVLGARI‬المميّز‪.‬‬ ‫الخط األيقوني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تم اعتماد‬ ‫يلمح شعار ‪ BVLGARI‬إلى بدايته في العام ‪ 1934‬حين ّ‬ ‫لتجديد متجر «فيا كوندوتي» ‪ via Condotti‬الرئيسي في روما‪ .‬وقرّرت عائلة‬ ‫تضم حرف “‪”V‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Bulgari‬لهذه المناسبة أن تعتمد الكتابات الرومانية القديمة التي‬ ‫الالتيني بد ًال عن الحرف اإلنجليزي “‪ – ”U‬وذلك ضمن خطوةٍ واحدة تُعيد إسم الدار‬ ‫إلى الثقافة الرومانيّة التي تشكّ ل مصدر الوحي الغنيّ والالمتناهي للكثير من الجينات‬ ‫اإلبداعية لدى ‪.Bulgari‬‬ ‫كَ ونها أيقونة أبدية‪ ،‬تشكّ ل مجموعة ‪ B.ZERO1‬مع الصفاء الغنائي لخطوطها‪،‬‬ ‫رمزا ً واضح ًا عن األناقة واإلبداع‪ .‬ويجعل منها تصميمها الراديكالي والصناعي الذي‬ ‫بشكل مستمرّ‪ ،‬تصريح ًا واضح ًا عن امرأة ديناميكية ذات شخصية قوية‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫يتطوّ ر‬ ‫ودائمة االتصال باألوقات المعاصرة‪.‬‬ ‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪39‬‬

‫«بي‪.‬زيرو ‪ B.ZERO1 »1‬الجديدة‬ ‫ودمج الصفات المميزة‬ ‫بعد التقدير الخاص للمدينة األبديّة من خالل مجموعة «بي‪.‬زيرو ‪ 1‬روما» ‪B.ZERO1‬‬ ‫يتم حال ّي ًا تعزيز المجموعة األيقونيّة من «بولغاري» ‪ Bulgari‬من خالل‬ ‫‪ّ ،ROMA‬‬ ‫ابتكارات جديدة ممتعة وثمينة‪.‬‬ ‫مستوحى من المدرّج العالمي الشهير «كولوسيوم»‪ ،‬يُشكّ ل نقاء اللولب األيقوني‬ ‫استعارة أبديّة لتناغم الماضي والحاضر والمستقبل الذي تعكسه روعة المدينة‬ ‫األبديّة‪ .‬تمتّعت «بي‪.‬زيرو ‪ B.ZERO1 »1‬على م ّر األعوام بعددٍ من التفسيرات التي‬ ‫تلعب بمواد وألوان وأشكال مختلفة وغير متوقّ عة من النفاسة دائم ًا ما تتماشى‬ ‫مع إبداع «بولغاري» االنتقائي‪ .‬وتقوم مجموعة ‪ B.ZERO1‬الجديدة بدمج الصفات‬ ‫المميّزة األكثر نجاح ًا لمجموعتَين إثنتَين ببراعة عبر استخدام الخزف مع نفاسة‬ ‫أحجار األلماس المرصعة‪ ،‬وذلك نتيجة الروح اللعوبة للمجموعة‪.‬‬ ‫من خالل دمج الخزف الذي يُعتبر مادة ابتكاريّة وغير تقليدية مع النفاسة الفريدة‬ ‫ألحجار األلماس‪ ،‬ابتكرت ‪ Bulgari‬إتّحادا ً مثال ّي ًا بين هذين العنصرَين المم ّيزَين‬ ‫وتم اعتماد إضافة الخزف في مجموعة ‪B.ZERO1‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لمجموعة ‪.B.ZERO1‬‬ ‫تم إطالقها‬ ‫كإشادة لمجموعة «شاندرا» ‪ Chandra‬الشهيرة من ‪ Bulgari‬التي ّ‬ ‫في العام ‪.1994‬‬ ‫تم إصدار هذه المجموعة من المجوهرات اإلبتكاريّة واالستفزازيّة من الخزف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األبيض المقولب ضمن حبيبات متعددة األشكال‪ .‬إنّ البساطة واإلرهاف يميّزان‬ ‫‪38‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

...ً‫أتمنى أن أحلق عاليا‬ 41

JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

‫األوبال‪ ،‬للسعادة‬ ‫األوبال‪ ،‬حجر نفيس ينافس أكثر الحجارة النبيلة بهاءً‬ ‫وجماالً‪ ،‬يرمز للسعادة في العالم‪ ،‬وللقاء مفاجئ‪ ،‬وقلب‬ ‫تتسارع نبضاته‪ .‬حجر يماثل نعومة الكلمة الرقيقة‪،‬‬ ‫واالبتسامة الساحرة‪ ،‬واللحظة التي ال تنتهي أبدا ً‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى أن أنشر الفرح في كل مكان‬

‫الماالكيت‪ ..‬للحظ الطيب‬ ‫الماالكيت‪ ،‬حجر الرحالة والمسافرين‪ ،‬يحمل في أعماقه‬ ‫األمل والحظ‪ ،‬حجر التوقعات والطموحات‪ ،‬رمز الدليل‬ ‫الصائب والتوجه الصحيح‪ ،‬والفرصة المتاحة‪ ،‬والمفاجأة التي‬ ‫تترك انطباع ًا ال ينسى‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى الحظ الطيب كل يوم‬

‫الالبيس الزولي‪ ...‬للسكينة‬ ‫البيس الزولي‪ ،‬قطعة السماء التي تجسدت في حجر كريم‬ ‫باللون األزرق الداكن‪ ،‬رمز الخلود‪ ،‬والثراء الالمتناهي لكنوز‬ ‫العالم‪ ،‬والوعد بالرقة والحكمة والثقة‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى أن أحلق عالياً‪...‬‬

‫الكارنيليان‪ ...‬للحيوية‬ ‫حجر الكارنيليان‪ ،‬كبسولة من النار‪ ،‬رمز الطاقة التي‬ ‫تنتقل من شخص آلخر‪ ،‬والحماس الذي يمنحط أجنحة‬ ‫لتطير‪ ،‬والمزاج المشرق الذي يطرب أللحان الحياة‪ ،‬ومتعة‬ ‫اللحظات‪ ،‬وعمق األحاسيس والرغبات‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى أن أعيش إلى األبد‪...‬‬

‫أموليت‬ ‫دو كارتييه‬ ‫منذ فجر األزمان‪ ،‬عكست الجواهر الثمينة القيم والمعاني التي‬ ‫منحها إياها البشر‪ .‬أموليت دو كارتييه‪ ،‬مجوهرات مبتكرة تحمل‬ ‫في قلبها قوة عاطفية كبيرة‪ .‬مثل التميمة‪ ،‬والتعويذة الجالبة‬ ‫للحظ‪ ،‬تلك القطعة الغامضة التي تمكن األذن من معرفة أمنية‬ ‫شخصية‪ ،‬ورسالة سرية‪ .‬مجموعة أموليت دو كارتييه تتألف‬ ‫من حجارة كريمة طبيعية‪ ،‬لكل منها تفرده وتميزه واختالفه‪.‬‬ ‫يحمل كل حجر أمنية بالتحقق‪ .‬األوبال‪ ،‬الالبيس الزولي‪ ،‬الماالكيت‪،‬‬ ‫الكارنيليان‪ ،‬الكريزوبريس‪ ،‬عرق اللؤلؤ‪ ،‬واألونيكس‪ .‬حجارة تتجلى‬ ‫روعتها بكل أبهة وفخامة في قطع مجوهرات مكرسة لها وحدها‪.‬‬ ‫ضمن أطر من الذهب‪ ،‬تبدو مزايا هذه الحجارة متألقة ضمن‬ ‫األمنيات التي تمثلها‪ .‬أطلق العنان ألمنيتك‪...‬‬

‫الكريزبريس‪ ...‬لإلنجاز‬ ‫الكريزوبريس‪ ،‬لمعان أخضر براق يخطف األنفاس‪ ،‬رمز‬ ‫الطاقة والقوة‪ ،‬والتناغم الذي يمأل العالم‪ ،‬واإلبداع الذي‬ ‫ينير الطريق‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى أن أعيش حياتي ألقصى حد ممكن‬

‫عرق اللؤلؤ‪ ...‬للمثالية‬ ‫عرق اللؤلؤ‪ ،‬رمز النقاء وبراءة الطفولة‪ ،‬رمز اللمسة‬ ‫الناعمة والنظرة الرقيقة‪ ،‬والكلمة المثالية التي تبعث‬ ‫على الطمأنينة‪ ،‬مثل يد تمسك بيد أخرى‪ ،‬رمز الطيبة‬ ‫واالحترام‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى أن أتمسك بالحب العظيم‪...‬‬

‫األونيكس‪ ..‬للشجاعة‬ ‫األونيكس‪ ،‬حجر القوة والمبادئ الراسخة‪ ،‬رمز الشجاعة‬ ‫في اإليمان على الرغم من كل الظروف‪ ،‬والمثابرة وكل ما‬ ‫تتطلبه من جهود‪ ،‬والتحقق من النجاح‪ ،‬والحدس الصادق‬ ‫الذي يمضي بك إلى حيث يجب أن تكون‪...‬‬

‫أتمنى قوة الفؤاد‪...‬‬

‫‪40‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫عارضة األزياء العالمية كارولينا كوركوفا‬

‫كريستيان كنوپ مدير االبتكارات في ‪ IWC Schaffhausen‬فإن «استخدام‬ ‫الماس وعرق اللؤلؤ يعتبر كنوع من نهضة في تاريخ عائلة ‪ ،Portofino‬ولكن‬ ‫نظرتنا إلى الفخامة نظرة حديثة‪ ،‬بالنسبة إلينا الفخامة تكمن في التحفظ وعدم‬ ‫اإلدعاء»‪ .‬ولجعل قراءة الوقت في المنطقة الزمنية الثانية أسهل فإن النصف‬ ‫األسفل من الحلقة من السادسة صباح ًا وحتى السادسة مساء أبيض اللون‪،‬‬ ‫بينما النصف األعلى من السادسة مساء وحتى السادسة صباح ًا فأزرق اللون‪ .‬وتأتي‬ ‫الساعة مع حزام من جلد التمساح من األزرق الغامق او األسود بحسب كل مينا‪.‬‬ ‫ساعة ‪Midsize Automatic‬‬

‫‪Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase‬‬

‫تأتي ساعة ‪ Portofino Midsize Automatic‬باربع نسخ من الذهب األحمر‬ ‫وستة نسخ من الفوالذ المقاوم للصدأ‪ ،‬وكل واحدة منها متوافرة مع موضع‬ ‫زجاجة مرصع بالماس أو مع ‪ 12‬مؤشرا ً من الماس على المينا‪ .‬وكل مينا فيها‬ ‫ال تذكرنا بمجموعة ‪Ingenieur‬‬ ‫نمط الشمس ودائرتها الداخلية مرتفعة قلي ً‬ ‫من ‪ .IWC‬وفي هذه الساعات أيض ًا ثمة عرض سريع مسبق للتاريخ عند موضع‬ ‫الساعة ‪ 3‬تحركه آلية ‪ .Caliber 35111‬وأحزمة جلد التمساح من ‪Santoni‬‬ ‫بألواح تتراوح من الرمادي الخافت إلى البرتقالي القوي تتكامل بشكل رائع مع‬ ‫األغلفة المصقولة‪ .‬واحد النماذج من الفوالذ يأتي مع سوار مشبّك‪.‬‬ ‫ومن اجل االحتفاء باطالق هذا الخط‪ ،‬التقط المصور بيتر ليندبيرغ مجموعات من‬ ‫الصور لعدد كبير من المشاهير‪ ،‬مثل كايت بالنشيت واميلي بالنت وعارضتي‬ ‫األزياء العالميتين كارولينا كوركوفا وأدريانا ليما‪ .‬وهذه الصور باألسود واألبيض‬ ‫التقطت في المدينة البحرية بورتوفينو (طبعاً)‪ ،‬وستجول الصور في أنحاء العالم‬ ‫ضمن معرض يحمل عنوان « بورتوفينو لكل زمان»‪.‬‬

‫‪Portofino Midsize Automatic‬‬ ‫‪JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪43‬‬

‫‪Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night‬‬

‫الممثلة كايت بالنشيت ترتدي ساعة ‪ Portofino‬من ‪IWC‬‬

‫‪ Portofino Midsize‬من ‪IWC‬‬ ‫من نانسي أولسون‬

‫عرفت منذ عام ‪ 1984‬بخطوطها النظيفة واسلوبها الكالسيكي‪ ،‬إن ‪Portofino‬‬

‫‪ Phase‬ونموذج ‪ Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night‬وساعة‬

‫من ‪ IWC‬هي اليوم دعامة أساسية بين مجموعات الماركة اآلخذة في التوسع‬

‫‪».Portofino Midsize Automatic‬‬

‫لتشمل أساليب وميزات جديدة‪ .‬في هذا العام قدمت ساعة اسم على مسمى‪،‬‬

‫ساعتي المفضلة هي ساعة الـ ‪ ،Moon Phase‬المصنوعة من الذهب األبيض‬

‫إنها ‪ Hand-Wound Pure Classic‬بقطر ‪ 43.5‬ملم‪ ،‬من الذهب الزهري أو من‬

‫وفيها المينا وموضع الزجاحة والعروات مرصعة بالماس‪ ،‬في المينا السوداء‬

‫الفوالذ‪ ،‬ويحركها ‪ Caliber 59060‬من ‪ IWC‬ولكن ايتها السيدات‪ ،‬إذا كنتن‬

‫طبقات عدة من اللك التي تشكل الخلفية المثالية لألحجار الكريمة التي تسحتضر‬

‫تبحثن عن شيء أصغر وربما مع بعض األلق األنثوي‪ ،‬فتوجهن بانظاركن نحو‬

‫السماء في الليل‪ .‬وعرض مراحل القمر بأكمله مصوّ ر كبانوراما متألقة‪ ،‬إذ يبدو‬

‫‪ Midsize Portofino‬التي يبلغ قطرها ‪ 37‬ملم‪.‬‬

‫القمر والنجوم عائمة في الفضاء‪ .‬أما المينا في النسخ من الذهب األحمر والفوالذ‬

‫«تستجيب مجموعة ‪ Portofino Midsize‬التجاه حالي في السوق‪ ،‬ولكنها في‬

‫المقاوم للصدأ من ساعة ‪ Midsize Automatic Moon Phase‬فمتوافرة بعرق‬

‫الوقت عينه تحكي تاريخنا»‪ .‬هكذا يقول غوريس فيربورغ مدير اإلعالن والتواصل‬

‫االلؤلؤ األبيض أو األسود‪ ،‬ومواضع الزجاجة فيها مرصعة بـ‪ 66‬ماسة‪ .‬ويقوم كل‬

‫في ‪ IWC Schaffhausen‬مستعيدا ً تاريخ الماركة‪ .‬ويشير إلى أن «عددا ً كبيرا ً‬

‫نموذج على آلية ‪ Caliber 35800‬االوتوماتيكية والذاتية التعبئة‪ ،‬ومع حزام من جلد‬

‫من أشكال مختلفة من الساعات مع أغلفة أصغر‪ ،‬ومع مواضع زجاجات مرصعة‬

‫التمساح أو سوار من الذهب المشبّك الذي يلتصق بمعصمك‪.‬‬

‫بالماس‪ ،‬ومينا من عرق اللؤلؤ كانت من بين ساعاتنا خالل الألعوام الـ‪ .147‬على‬

‫تمزج ساعة ‪ Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night‬مع غالف من‬

‫مدى ‪ 20‬عام ًا أكثر ساعات ‪ Portofino‬التي بعناها كانت من النماذج المتوسطة‬

‫الذهب األحمر أو من الفوالذ المقاوم للصدأ‪ ،‬مرة جديدة‪ ،‬بين الماس وعرق اللؤلؤ‬

‫الحجم‪ ،‬كما ان صناعة الساعات المرصعة باألحجار الكريمة تعود إلى انطالقة‬

‫لخلق األكسسوار المثالي والفعّ ال للنساء‪ .‬ومع منطقة زمنية ثانوية وعرض‬

‫الماركة‪ .‬والمذهل أن هنالك ‪ 17‬نسخة مختلفة من النماذج الثالثة الجديدة بقطر‬

‫‪ 24‬ساعة نهار ‪ /‬ليل في منتصف المينا‪ ،‬تستقي الساعة قوتها من اآللية الذاتية‬

‫‪ 37‬ملم‪ ،‬قدمت العام الماضي‪ ،‬ومنها ‪Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon‬‬

‫التعبئة ‪ Caliber 35700‬مع احتياطي طاقة لمدة ‪ 42‬ساعة‪ .‬وكما يشرح‬

‫‪42‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

Malgosia Bela by Mario Sorrenti

messika.com

Angel Collection

‫‪Haute Joaillerie‬‬

‫‪Plume‬‬

‫مجموعة ساعات ‪ Plumes‬مستوحاة من قصة ملكة فرنسا‬ ‫‘ماري‪ -‬أنطوانيت’‪ ،‬زوجة ‘لويس السادس عشر’ وسفيرة‬ ‫بريغيه الفعلية للساعات النسائية الفاخرة‪ .‬لم تتوقف حامية‬ ‫الوقت هذه عن مراسلة زوجها الملك وأفراد عائلتها في‬ ‫النمسا‪ ،‬معربة بواسطة قلمها عن رغبتها العارمة بالحرية‪.‬‬ ‫في هذا العالم‪ ،‬تم إبتكار ساعات شاعرية جدا ً طوّ رت بناءً على‬ ‫نماذج زخرفية قديمة مثل النقش أو تقنية الترصيع الخاصة‬ ‫تجسيدا ً للدقة التي تتطلّبها الكتابة بالريشة‪.‬‬ ‫هذا العام‪ ،‬تتألق مجموعة ‪ Plumes‬مع ساعة جديدة هي‬ ‫‪ .Rêve de Plume‬هذه الساعة المصنوعة من الذهب‬ ‫الزهري أو االبيض تعرض لمنحوتة على شكل ريشة‪ ،‬والتي تبدأ‬ ‫المرصعة بالماس عند عالمة الساعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من الملحقات الدائرية‬ ‫‪ 6‬وتمتد حتى الجهة اليسرى من اإلطار‪ .‬في سبيل تنفيذ هذا‬ ‫الشكل الدقيق‪ ،‬قام حرفيو بريغيه من رجال ونساء‪ ،‬بتصنيف‬ ‫أحجار الماس وفق ًا ألحجامها المختلفة بحيث تعرض لكل‬ ‫جزء من الريشة‪ .‬من هنا‪ ،‬ر ّصع الجزء المركزي «المحوري» من‬ ‫الريشة بأحجار ألماس تقطيع باغيت‪ ،‬والتي يتقلّص حجمها‬ ‫كلما إقتربت من النهاية‪ .‬على نحو مماثل‪ ،‬ر ّصعت االجزاء التي‬ ‫تشبه «الشبكة» في الريشة بأحجار الماس تقطيع بريليانت‬ ‫من أحجام متنوعة‪ ،‬فتبدو وكأنها نقاط من الماء تنزلق على‬ ‫الريشة‪ .‬وعلى الرغم من عملية الترصيع الدقيقة هذه‪ ،‬فإن‬ ‫هذه الساعة توحي بخفة الوزن والسهولة‪ .‬أما المينا فقد صنع‬ ‫من عرق اللؤلؤ االبيض اللون وهو يحمل نقش نمط جديد من‬ ‫يجسد ألجزاء الريشة الدقيقة‪ ،‬والتي تمتد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الخطوط المتداخلة‬ ‫بدءا ً من عالمة الساعة ‪ .6‬مما الشك فيه‪ ،‬يشكّ ل إستخدام‬ ‫تقنيات نقش خطوط متداخلة بغية إضفاء ُبعد إضافي عملية‬ ‫دقيقة جدا ً نظرا ً لهشاشة عرق اللؤلؤ‪ .‬زوّدت هذه الساعة‬ ‫بعقارب بريغيه ذات األطراف المفتوحة والمصنوعة من الفوالذ‬ ‫غير القابل للصدأ باللون االزرق‪ ،‬كما أنها تزدان بأحجار الماس‬ ‫على اإلطار وحافة اإلطار بينما يبرز التاج مع حجر الماس تقطيع‬ ‫بريوليت‪ .‬وبالفعل‪ ،‬تؤكد هذه الساعة المذهلة مرة جديدة على‬ ‫العناية التامة بأدق التفاصيل‪ ،‬السمة التي تتميز بها إبتكارات‬ ‫بريغيه‪ .‬كذلك‪ ،‬تحمل جوانب هذه الساعة الفاخرة نقش ريش‪،‬‬ ‫بما يشبه حلقة الساعة المخددة الجوانب التي تشكّ ل سمة‬ ‫خاصة بساعات بريغيه‪ُ .‬يشار إلى أن مجموع إجمالي حجم‬ ‫أحجار الماس التي تزدان بها هذه الساعة يتعدى ‪ 4‬قيراطاً‪،‬‬ ‫وهي مزوّدة بعيار ذو تعبئة ذاتية من نوع ‪ ،586‬آلية الحركة مع‬ ‫زنبرك توازن مصنوع من السيليكون‪.‬‬ ‫‪44‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015‬‬

‫‪Rêvede‬‬

Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic

Premier Lace

Premier Shinde Automatic

Harry Winston

The Premier Collection Artistic Crafts

r. Winston’s tradition of excellence in creativity and design is remembered in these artistic creations. Each new model recalls his desire to push aesthetic boundaries and honors his legacy. His pioneering vision is brought to life in the Premier Collection, strikingly beautiful in both artistry and design. With this collection, Harry Winston invites you to enjoy a truly exquisite moment discovering its new creations. Premier Precious Butterfly Automatic 36mm In the stunning Premier Feathers, Harry Winston combines two ancestral skills: horology and feather art. With its new Premier models, the House wishes to continue exploring unexpected pairings and use another highly original technique. The material chosen for this model – butterfly wings – is brimming with emotions and symbolism. The vibrant colors adorning the Premier Precious Butterfly timepieces are created using the fragile, yet extraordinarily iridescent, powder found on butterfly wings. Harry Winston designers successfully harvested and expertly placed this delicate powder on each of its dials, a technique that required three years of creative reflection and development. Reminiscent of spectacular emerald gemstones, the Premier Precious Butterfly features the stunning and intensely appealing color green. Still, each dial is as unique as a butterfly. Harry Winston designers expertly use the delicate powder with its extraordinary pigment to transform the dials into artistic creations. This powder is the only material used to create the unique motif and allows for a rare and mesmerizing visual experience. Premier Lace 31mm Harry Winston further explores its unsurpassable creativity and opens up whole new vistas. Creative worlds overlap in the House’s new designs, which pair two iconic motifs, both symbolizing absolute femininity in their own unique way – lace and mother-of- pearl. Precious and evanescent, lace symbolizes enduring time, as its creation requires long, patient hours of craftsmanship. For Harry Winston, this delicate design was a natural

JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

companion for mother-of-pearl, a symbol of tenderness and purity. This year, the House chose mother-of-pearl to adorn the dials of its ladies’ watches and applied the full force of its jewelry expertise to its treatment. The result is a striking design – one that was difficult to create in light of the extreme fragility of the material. Premier Lace 31mm features an expert selection of mother-of-pearl colors. Each shade is carefully selected and studied. Every last reflection is carefully scrutinized, ensuring that each creation will possess a glorious glow. Harry Winston’s Premier Lace 31mm is fascinating and mysterious, with its shimmering white mother-of-pearl lace bold against a black sunburst dial. This model is also available in more romantic tones – pink motherof-pearl against a Tahitian mother-of- pearl dial. Premier Shinde Automatic 36mm Mr. Winston met Ambaji V. Shinde - whom he used to call the gem behind the gems – in 1955 during a trip to Bombay, and immediately recognized the similarities in their passion for creativity and design. Shinde became the iconic designer of the House, infusing Harry Winston treasures with his extraordinarily inventive touch. The three Premier Shinde models are inspired by archival records of Mr. Shinde’s jewelry creations. They reinterpret two of his necklace designs – including the famous “Star of the Desert” – and a tiara, all masterpieces and an important part of the history of the House. The essence of the original jewelry creations is captured and portrayed on the dial of each of these timepieces, all featuring a 36 mm case. The symbolic motif is created using a special gold engraving technique. Technical constraints created a challenge and called for close cooperation between the engraving artisan and the designer. The dial is entirely relief-engraved. A slender 24-carat thread is used, daintily resembling a cannetille – a small filigree-type element composed of spirally twisted gold thread. Measuring a mere four-tenths of a millimeter, its capabilities and resulting design are truly extraordinary. More than just a jewelry model, at its heart, the Premier Shinde tells the treasured story of the brand.

Malgosia Bela by Mario Sorrenti

messika.com

Move, Spiky and Kate Collections

Catrinel Marloni in Chopard

Lights, camera, action!

he amazing love story between Chopard and film-making continues beneath the Mediterranean sky with a dazzling Haute Joaillerie collection. Composed of 68 one-of-a-kind creations, the Red Carpet collection breathes incomparable glamour into the Cannes Film Festival and its stunning nightly mounting-thesteps ritual. Official Partner of the Cannes Film Festival since 1998, Chopard actively contributes to the international renown of the event. Caroline Scheufele, Chopard Co-President and Artistic Director, has made the Geneva-based House an indispensable part of worldwide cinema’s major gathering. Each year, it pays tribute to the beauty of actresses by dedicating to them yet another extraordinary Haute Joaillerie collection, naturally named the Red Carpet. Artistic treasures sparkle on the red carpet Each year, the red carpet covering the steps of the Palais des Festivals becomes the backdrop for breath taking Haute Joaillerie creations. These exceptional models stem from a daunting challenge brilliantly taken upon by Chopard, since their number corresponds to the edition of the event. In 2015, for the 68th edition of the Festival, this means that no less than 68 one-of-a-kind pieces will eloquently showcase the talent and expertise of the Geneva-based company on La Croisette. Green Carpet This year, the Red Carpet collection is rolling out a new development, since it includes a capsule collection of Green Carpet jewellery – creations effectively matching ethics with aesthetics. Through “The Journey to Sustainable Luxury” project, Chopard is affirming its commitment and its determination to promote sustainable luxury, placing it at the heart of the brand values. In keeping with the demands of the GCC® (Green Carpet Challenge) label, this collection is designed and produced according to the highest standards of sustainable development.In 2015, in honour of the 60th anniversary of the Palme d’Or, Caroline Scheufele wished to pay tribute to this treasure from the plant kingdom that has become the ultimate symbol of the sheer

JUNE - JULY 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Sonam Kapoor in Chopard

Julianne Moore in Chopard

genius of film-making. Just like the Palme d’Or that inspired it, this Green Carpet collection is entirely made in the Chopard workshops from Fairmined gold. “In 2014, I decided that the Palme d’Or, the most prestigious reward in the international film industry, should from now on be made in Fairmined gold. This year, to mark the 60th anniversary of the Palme d’Or, we have combined the emblem, our jewellery-making expertise and our commitment to sustainable luxury by creating a Green Carpet capsule collection inspired by the Palme”, says Caroline Scheufele. Composed of a jewellery watch, a ring, earrings, a bracelet and a long pendant necklace, this collection features a design that encompasses the perfect harmony of the palm’s natural curves, and especially its finely veined folioles. Crafted in 18-carat Fairmined gold, the jewellery pieces are set with subtly graded marquisecut diamonds sourced from the IGC group, a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), a monitoring and supervisory body in the fields of ethical, social and ecological concerns. Red Carpet, lace ribbons and magical colours The Red Carpet Collection plays the magician, casting its spell and stirring emotions. Traditional techniques and avant-garde technologies merge in giving birth to spectacular Haute Joaillerie creations. For this Red Carpet 2015 collection, swirling arabesques composed of finely carved precious stones make light of gravity. Like a ribbon of diamonds, 18-carat white or rose gold sparkles with a glittering flurry of diamonds and coloured stones. The gems are placed in cleverly staggered rows to enhance the lacework effect. The Red Carpet collection continues to roll out mesmerising chromatic combinations. Propelling Haute Joaillerie towards ever broader horizons, these unique and intrinsically original models are composed of coloured stones in various cuts – such as emeralds, rubies, Paraiba tourmalines, amethysts or tanzanites – enabling an infinite range of joyful and precious variations. These are the true stars: powerful, charismatic and dazzlingly beautiful models that distil a fascinating hint of opulence, mystery and seduction on the big red carpet.

Fan Bing Bing in Chopard

Green Carpet Collection watch in 18ct white Fairmined gold set with marquise-cut diamonds (9cts)

INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015

Baselworld

With much more yet to be revealed, this brief overview of Baselworld 2015 is provided as an introduction to the many insights that we present you in this issue and in the future too. Be sure to keep an eye out for the upcoming issues, where we will share more expanded reports of 2015 debuts.

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Armin Strom • Available in signature “Elements” editions of 100 pieces each in 18-karat rose gold (Fire), stainless steel (Water), titanium (Air) and in black PVD-coated stainless steel (Water), the Skeleton Pure collection celebrates the mechanical architecture of its ARM09-S manual-winding movement. Each watch comes on an alligator strap and includes an additional rubber strap.

Bulova • New within the Precisionist collection, this 47.5mm rose gold colored steel quartz chronograph features a black dial with gold colored hands and a red chronogtaph seconds hand. The sporty piece also offers an easy grip rotating bezel, a curved crystal and a rubber strap. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters.

Bulgari • First launched in 2012, the Octo line is welcoming new models this year, among them a 38mm model featuring a sapphire blue dial. Inside, the Solotempo in-house manufactured self-winding movement keeps things running. This new Octo interpretation comes on a steel bracelet or an alligator leather strap.

Carl F. Bucherer • The Patravi ScubaTec diver’s watch is now available in rose gold, giving this sporty timepiece an elegant edge. It has an automatic movement, the CFB1950.1, with 38 hours of power reserve, and it comes on a rubber strap with a diving clasp in 18-karat rose gold and blackened titanium.

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EXHIBITION EXHIBITION

BASELWORLD

Chopard Cecil Purnell • The new Rendez-Vous Twin-Tourbillon GMT features a double barrel caliber built on the brand’s Twin-Tourbillon foundation: the award-winning CP-V16. The tourbillons have been conceived with a contemporary regulating system of two gears with a spiral, ensuring that the tourbillon cages regulate one another’s speed and work to increase the precision of the mechanism.

• Reinterpreting a classic from Chopard’s L.U.C Haute Horlogerie collections, the L.U.C Regulator model combines the elegance of the new L.U.C case with the horological prestige of the Chopard regulator movement. COSC certification, GMT indication, long power reserve and the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark are testimony to the watch’s fine craftsmanship.

Frédérique Constant Eterna • With the Grace Open Art, Eterna demonstrates the importance of its long tradition of creating watches for women. Driven by the ETA 2824-2 Open Art, this exclusive ladies’ model comes in yellow or white gold, each with 71 diamonds, with a white or black mother-of-pearl dial. Strap options include white or black satin.

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• This new addition to the Worldtimer collection is driven by the FC-718 Manufacture automatic caliber, with a 42-hour power reserve, and all functions are easily accessible through the crown. The navy blue dial has detailed anthracite gray world map in the center, and the hour and minute hands are silver with luminous white coating. The case is stainless steel, and a blue alligator leather strap secures it to the wrist.

Hublot Graham • The Geo.Graham Tourbillon is a limited edition (100 pieces) tribute to George Graham and his contributions to watchmaking. The ultra-thin 60-second tourbillon is positioned at 6 o’clock. The watch comes in pink gold on a leather strap.

Jaquet Droz • On the dial of the Grande Seconde Deadbeat, the seconds hand is placed at the very center of the dial, while the retrograde date indication occupies the space that is traditionally reserved for the seconds hand. And the quest to combine independent seconds, calendar and hour and minute functions has led to the creation of a totally new caliber for which a patent has been applied.

• The Classic Fusion Aeromoon skeleton watch features a full calendar displaying the moon phases, as well as simple date, day and month indications. The watch is driven by the HUB131 self-winding movement, which required two years of development. The 45mm watch is available in two versions: one in King Gold and the other in titanium.

Longines • A new addition to the Conquest Classic collection, the Conquest Classic Moonphase, features the self-winding mechanical chronograph movement L678. The 42mm case is available in steel, in steel and rose gold plate or in rose gold. The black or silvered dial is set with nine applied indexes coated with SuperLuminova.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015

EXHIBITION EXHIBITION

BASELWORLD

Mondaine • The Official Swiss Railways Watch Mini Giant features Mondaine’s signature dial, this time with a 35mm polished stainless steel case. Design options include a white dial on a black or red leather strap, or a black dial on a metal mesh bracelet. The quartz-driven watch is water resistant to 30 meters.

Nomos • At 38.5mm, the Metro 38 Datum features a white silver-plated dial, created by Berlin-based Mark Braun, with delicate minute indexes, an extra-large date indicator and blue hour indexes at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock. Inside is the DUW 4101 caliber with Nomos in-house escapement.

TAG Heuer Perrelet • The Turbine Skeleton combines a skeleton movement with a turbine, thereby completely reinventing Perrelet’s signature design. The Caliber P-381 features cutout effects revealing its inner workings, and the Perrelet engravers and watchmakers demonstrate their finesse in performing the detailed skeletonization. The 44mm case is available in steel with a black PVD coating or fitted with a pink gold bezel.

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• TAG Heuer’s 39mm Carrera Calibre 18-Automatic Chronograph with date features two anthracite counters on the dial and handapplied polished and faceted indexes, with a printed vintage Heuer logo. “Carrera” and “Calibre 18 – Telemeter” are lettered on the dial, and an angled date window is at 6 o’clock. The scratch-resistant “glassbox” sapphire crystal has double anti-reflective treatment.

Tissot • The Tissot Vintage Collection is Tissot’s way of reminding consumers that the company has always made classic gold watches for men and women. These models can be purchased with the firm’s own longreserve (80 hours) Powermatic automatic movements, or with a quartz caliber. Quartz versions are thin and feature baton indices, which replace Roman numerals for a softer edge. All arrive on leather straps with butterfly clasps and push buttons.

Zenith

Ulysse Nardin • The monumental journey of Hannibal Barca, considered one of the world’s greatest military commanders, is commemorated in the Hannibal Minute Repeater. Presented worldwide as a limited edition of thirty pieces, the timepiece is crafted from platinum and genuine granite from the Alps. The 44mm platinum watch is powered by the Caliber UN-78.

• This year, as part of this esteemed brand’s 150th anniversary celebration, Zenith is introducing the Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II. This ten-piece limited edition comprises many of the artistic crafts for which Zenith is known, including engraving and micropainting. And the brand’s unique expression of fine watchmaking is evidenced by the patented gravity control system, fusée-chain transmission, and Zenith’s high-speed 36,000 vph frequency. Christopher Columbus seems an apropos centerpiece for this commemorative watch, since his pioneering spirit is in keeping with that of Zenith’s founder Georges Favre-Jacot. According to the brand, both men were guided by passion and a love of challenges, and both were catalysts for change and innovation in their respective fields. The remarkable décor adorning the back of the watch (pictured lower left) presented a challenge for the Zenith artisans, watchmakers and engineers, who had to rework the movement of the original Academy Christophe Colomb model. They were sometimes required to push the limits of feasibility in order to accommodate these adornments within the same 45mm rose gold case and beneath the same domed sapphire crystal without making any compromises on precision or reliability. The result is a perfect illustration of Zenith’s creative daring. The hand-wound El Primero 8805 movement with a unique gyroscopic mechanism that maintains the regulating organ in a perfectly horizontal position powers this piece. Functions include hours and minutes in an offset subdial at 12 o’clock, the self-regulating gravity control module at 6 o’clock, small seconds at 9 o’clock and power reserve indication at 3 o’clock.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

GENEVA

WATCHMAKING ON DISPLAY

If you are visiting Geneva this summer, Vacheron Constantin would like to remind you exactly how the city became the epicenter for Swiss watchmaking. As part of the partnership between Geneva and the city of Beijing, the Capital Museum China, in cooperation with the Museum of Art and History, Geneva (MAH) and Vacheron Constantin, are showing the exhibit “Geneva at the Heart of Time - The Origin of Swiss Watchmaking Culture” from April 23 to August 12, 2015. 57

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This Vacheron Constantin pocket watch was presented by the Swiss Colony in Egypt to King Fouad I in 1929. It features a split-second chronograph with 30-minute counter, perpetual calendar, phases and age of the moon, minute-repeater on three gongs, grande and petite sonneries. Its back shows an enameled coat-of-arms of King Fouad I.

acheron Constantin was asked by the museum to exhibit some 350 historical timepieces to round off its own extensive timepiece collection. The company has supplied timepieces, objects, machinery and equipment and a reconstruction of an eighteenth century Geneva cabinotiers workshop. All the objects presented trace the history and the excellence of Swiss watchmaking. In addition, representative artisans of the five artistic crafts will be presented alternately and at set times, including a master watchmaker, enameler, gemsetter, engraver and guillocheur. On the following pages, we’ve assembled images and descriptions of many of the highlights from the exhibit.

1. | J.-M. VACHERON, GENEVA, 1755

2. | VACHERON

3. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1924

CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1918

POCKET WATCH

LADY’S WRISTWATCH

POCKET WATCH

It features 18-karat yellow gold, silver guilloché dial, quarterrepeater, key winding and setting.

Platinum, silvered dial. Diamond and sapphire-set case, cord bracelet.

20-karat yellow gold, enamel dial, 30-minute counterchronograph, grande and petite sonneries, quarter

CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1817

POCKET WATCH Silver, enamel dial, key winding and setting.First known pocket watch created by Vacheron Constantin founder, Jean-Marc Vacheron.

4. | VACHERON

and half-quarter repeaters. Chiseled case, guilloché back with engraved and enameled monogram of the American collector James Ward Packard (1863-1928).

1 2

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HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

5. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1889

6. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1916

7. | VACHERON

8. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1920

9. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1905

LADY’S WRISTWATCH

POCKET WATCH

LADY’S WRISTWATCH

POCKET WATCH

18-karat yellow gold, enamel dial, winding and setting by turning the bezel. Carved figures depicting two winged goddesses, claw-set diamonds. A very rare wristwatch model of the late nineteenth century and the first to be produced in series by the Manufacture.

Platinum, silvered dial, engraved case, diamond-set and openwork bracelet, curved movement. Formerly part of the collection of Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharajah of Patiala.

18-karat yellow gold, guilloché silver dial. Blue champlevé enamel case depicting the map

18-karat white gold, silvered dial, diamond and sapphire-set case, pearl-set bracelet.

CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1824

of Northern Italy.

18-karat yellow gold, guilloché silver dial, cloisonné enamel case with thistle pattern. Presented at the International Exhibition of Milan in 1906.

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10. | VACHERON

CONSTANTIN, 1884

DOUBLE-FACE POCKET WATCH 18-karat yellow gold, enamel dials, perpetual calendar, phases and age of the moon, chronometer watch with official Observatory Bulletin.

11. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1923 12

POCKET WATCH 18-karat yellow gold, enamel dial, engraved case, enameled caseback with a miniature painting by Marie Goll, reproducing the painting “Les Bergers d’Arcadie” by Nicolas Poussin, engraved dome depicting a pastoral scene by Léopold Robert and some notes from Beethoven’s no 6 symphony. Engraved movement representing two angels.

12. | VACHERON CONSTANTIN, GENEVA, 1913 POCKET WATCH 18-karat yellow gold, gilt dial, black champlevé enamel case, Renaissance-style decoration

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HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

Close-up of the dial of the 175th Anniversary Patek Philippe reference 5131/175G-001 World Time showing a sailboat and the Geneva Harbor in cloisonné enamel.

rare handcrafts PATEK PHILIPPE

BY CHRIS GREENBERG

Geneva craftsmanship, past and present, owes much to the sixteenth-century Protestant ideals of John Calvin and the subsequent intolerance of those ideals by France’s Louis XIV. When these men held sway, Geneva wasn’t yet part of Switzerland. Yet their influence greatly affected the city’s artistry, albeit in significantly different ways. The white gold Patek World Time Ref. 5131/175G-001

he two couldn’t be more opposite characters: Calvin boiled religion down to its bear essentials, banning luxury, decoration and art, while Louis XIV established France as a superpower in the 1600s, fought with almost the whole of Europe and lived an opulent lifestyle. When strict Calvinism took hold in Geneva in the mid-1500s, jewelry making was forbidden, as it was considered indulgent. For all of Calvin’s attempts to refocus people to God, he was in fact a believer in science and education and someone who considered watchmaking a scientific pursuit. As such, goldsmiths were allowed to support the intellectual endeavor of watchmakers by creating watchcases for them. In 1685, Louis XIV reversed the Edict of Nantes, effectively making it illegal to be a Protestant in France, and hundreds of thousands of

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French intellectuals, scientists, artists and craftsmen were driven from the country, settling in Geneva. Within a century those craftsman helped forge Geneva and the nearby Valle de Joux into one of the major watchmaking centers in the world, along with England. Watchmaking has flourished in Geneva and Switzerland ever since, except of course during the 1970s and 1980s when all mechanical timekeeping trades suffered as quartz movements gained market share globally. Patek Philippe Patek, Philippe & Cie was formed and headquartered in Geneva during the latter half of the nineteenth century, which meant it would have been party to the last distinctly robust period of Genevan artistic watch and clock craftsmanship. As industrial practices became more common and

Ref. 1656M dome table clock in cloisonné enamel depicting mixed fruits and flowers.

Ref. 982/168J yellow gold pocket watch with guilloche and miniature enamel painted dial of a ballerina and theater.

efficient into the early decades of the twentieth century, many timepiece firms began to reduce their commitment to handcrafted items. But as a company that supported these artists from the very beginning, Patek Philippe did the opposite. In the 1940s Patek Philippe president Charles Henri Stern began to preserve and curate not only thousands of timepieces (more than 3,000, in fact, most of which are displayed at the Patek Museum in Geneva), but also continued to fund the artisanal practices that made them possible. Patek Philippe today calls these specific arts the ‘rare handcrafts,’ which refers to enameling (cloisonné, champlevé, plique-a-jour and paillonne), engraving, gem setting, marquetry, guilloché, and perhaps the rarest of all, miniature painting on enamel. Each craft is performed by a single artist, most often working in solitude with the slow, deliberate hands of a person responsible for a rare creation. To showcase this ongoing love of the handmade, also known as belle horologie (beautiful watchmaking) Patek Philippe each year unveils a small collection of timepieces that express such artistry through watchmaking. These pieces showcase a specific technique, or sometimes a combination of them (enameling with engraving or guilloché, as an example) and are created in a unique motif that is used only once in the collection and never revisited. The ever-changing motifs, limited production and exemplary craftsmanship coupled with Patek Philippe movements have made these pieces desirable worldwide and supreme treats for the fortunate few every year who realize ownership.

New Debuts At the time of this writing (early February) the 2015 collection was being prepared for Baselworld and was a secret not to be shared. However, previous examples of the company’s handcraft motifs have included, but are by no means limited to, wristwatch and/or pocket watch dials bearing enameled peacocks, flowers, ballerinas, feathers, horses, elephants and geishas. We’ve seen tiger rendered in wood marquetry and master artworks, Japanese cranes, owls and Russian matryoshka (nesting) dolls painted on enamel. In addition, Patek Philippe’s gem setters are creating haute joaillerie pieces heavily set with diamonds and other precious stones for women, and the firm’s one-off dome clocks in themes, patterns and designs are always a treat. Even by seventeenth century standards these techniques aren’t new. Enameling has been practiced since the ninth century, wood marquetry from 1,000 BC, miniature painting has been seen since the late sixteenth century, and people have been engraving all sorts of items for 7,000 years. Yet despite all the years of practice and all the pieces made, demand has only increased, especially very recently, for these very specialized examples of these items as created by dedicated craftsmen and craftswomen. Larry Pettinelli, President of Patek Philippe U.S.A., compares the resurgent interest in modern-day handcraft pieces to a light switch being turned on. While Patek Philippe has always offered engraved and enameled work for pocket watches and dome clocks, during the past decade collectors have actively sought these unique

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HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

and unusual pieces. That the total allocation of Patek Philippe’s rare handcrafts is small only seems to enhance this demand. Dome Clocks And Watches With its special collections Patek Philippe typically creates a variety of dome clocks, each a one-off design, plus several pocket watches and a series of unique wristwatches, usually in a set of four. And that’s it for the world. “We have ninety-eight retail locations in the U.S. and at Basel we have sixty-five to seventy people coming,” explains Pettinelli. “Maybe forty to forty-five of them are looking at these handcrafts and want one of something. Many of them don’t even ask for a particular watch, and instead say, ‘I’d like this one first and this one second, but if you can get any of these I would take what you can get me.’” Part of the challenge with these collections is that there simply aren’t enough skilled artists who do this type of work. In 1967 Henri Stern, then Patek Philippe’s President, retained the services of a young enamel artist named Suzanne Rohr, who had apprenticed under Genevan enamelist Carlo Poluzzi, an artist who had provided enameling for Rolex, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin and others. To this day, Rohr still provides miniature painting on enamel for Patek Philippe and is considered one of the finest painters of miniatures in the world. Renowned dial artist Anita Porchet also creates enamel work for Patek Philippe as well as for Vacheron Constantin and Jaquet Droz. Anniversary Collection In spite of the dearth of craftsmen, Patek Philippe this past year still offered an especially broad set of artisanal timepieces to celebrate its 175th Anniversary. In addition to four new high complication wristwatches created in small batches (Grandmaster Chime, World Time

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“

Enameling has been practiced since the ninth century, wood marquetry from 1,000 BC, miniature painting has been seen since the late sixteenth century, and people have been engraving all sorts of items for 7,000 years.”

1. Ref. 5077P-065 platinum Calatrava with tiger motif in wood marquetry and diamond hour markers. 2. Ref. 5077/100R-010 rose gold Calatrava with plique-a-jour enamel dial of water lilies and lotus. 3. Reference 1662M dome table clock in cloisonné enamel depicting the send-off of the RMS Titanic from Belfast harbor. 4. The timekeeping dial of a 2014 pocket watch, with a cover of enameled Japanese Cranes. The dial is white gold and hand-guilloched under translucent blue-gray enamel. Gold applied Breguet numerals, white gold Feuille (leaf-shaped) hands. 5. Dome clock in cloisonne enamel floral motif. Center clock dial shows Breguet numerals surrounding a guilloché and enamel sunburst pattern.

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HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

“

The handcraft collections are the result of work begun two and three years earlier.”

Moon, Chiming Jump Hour, Multi-scale Chronograph) the company also created forty handcrafted pieces, including twenty wristwatches and a combined twenty pocket watches and dome clocks. The theme for these pieces is sailing on Lake Geneva, specifically the “traditional lateen-rigged sailboats and the Bol d’Or Regatta.” The sailing-themed wristwatches, like many of the timepieces referenced earlier (enameled peacocks, marquetry tigers), feature timeonly movements housed in simple 38mm platinum Calatrava cases for the sole reason that each dial’s artistry is best seen in the round. The case and movement combinations are selected by Thierry Stern and director of design Sandrine Stern, solely based on the handcraft(s) they desire to showcase. In Production In addition to the Anniversary handcraft collections, Patek Philippe also added limited quantities of handcrafted work to several 2014 production pieces, giving each a unique appearance and a special reference number. The everyday World Time reference 5130 is here reference 5131 with cloisonné enamel maps of Europe, Asia and/or America; the regular reference 5159 Perpetual Calendar is now available in a hand-engraved case with guilloche dial (reference 5160), the Sky Moon Tourbillon reference 5002 has been re-imagined as the reference 6002 with a hand-engraved case and a dial sporting both cloisonné and champlevé enameling techniques. The handcraft collections are the result of work begun two and three years earlier. They offer a testament to Patek Philippe’s commitment to the art, the artist and the collecting community. Pettinelli notes that a very special type of customer covets these collections. “They don’t necessarily need a watch at that price point to tell the time,” he says. “They appreciate the fact that it’s hand-finished and that almost everything is a unique piece. It’s a piece of wearable art.”

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“

Rohr still provides miniature painting on enamel for Patek Philippe and is considered one of the finest painters of miniatures in the world.”

6.Reference 5089G-014 white gold Calatrava with Geneva Harbor motif rendered in hand-engraved white gold. 7. Reference 5089G-018 white gold Calatrava with Lake Geneva motif in wood marquetry. 8. Reference 4909/110G Ladies Twenty~4 Haute Joaillerie piece with invisibly-set baguette diamonds and gem-set fish in rose gold and blue sapphires. 9. Dome clock in cloisonné enamel of a bird and floral motif. Center clock dial shows large Roman numerals surrounding a guilloche and enamel sunburst pattern.

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WATCH GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

POWER RESERVES BY RACHEL GOLD

In recent years, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen more attention paid to the power reserve indicator. This useful function has become even more important as manufacturers add hours, and even days, to the historically standard forty hour reserve for most mechanical watches. Designers are also creatively displaying the function, using linear subdials, colors or symbols to show the time remaining until a winding, or a shake, is needed. Here are a few recent examples. 67

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OFFICINE PANERAI

LUMINOR 1950 10 DAYS GMT An automatic Panerai P.2003 caliber powers this 44mm polished stainless steel piece, which offers a long ten-day power reserve. Functions include: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, second time zone, 24-hour indicator, unusual linear power reserve indicator and seconds reset. The dial is black with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH

This timepiece is a 44mm titanium limited edition with a bezel forged in black ceramic. The dial is silver-toned and openworked with Arabic numerals and blackened Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating and a silver-toned inner bezel. Functions include tourbillon, chronograph, hours and minutes. The piece is presented on a black rubber strap.

BALL WATCH

This 500-piece limited edition automatic model with a 44mm stainless steel case glows with thirty micro gas tubes on the hour, minute and second hands, as well as the dial, for night reading. The piece is presented on a stainless steel bracelet with patented folding buckle and extension system.

BAUME & MERCIER

CLIFTON GRANDE DATE

With an uncluttered dial, this timepiece focuses on a big date display and a power reserve indicator. The 43mm stainless steel case is polished and satin-finished. The watch has a 1950s-inspired design and houses a Swiss mechanical self-winding caliber.

ENGINEER HYDROCARBON HUNLEY

BELL & ROSS

BR03-97 RESERVE DE MARCHE

This 42mm steel timepiece features a matte black dial. Functions include: hours, minutes, and seconds (all central hands), date with quick correction, power reserve indicator, and hour setting with seconds stopped. A mechanical automatic movement powers the piece, and it offers a 42-hour power reserve.

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WATCH GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

POWER RESERVES

BLANCPAIN

VILLERET DOUBLE TIMEZONE ALARM WATCH

Featuring a 45-hour power-reserve, this 40.3mm steel timepiece is self-winding and features a double timezone indication, date, and alarm power reserve indication. The dial is white and the strap is black alligator leather. The piece is water resistant to 30 meters.

BREGUET

Housed within a 38mm rose gold case with a finely fluted caseband, this timepiece is powered by an in-house movement with small seconds and a 96-hour power reserve indicated at 1:30. The 18-karat gold dial is silvered and engine-turned in a hobnail pattern. The watch is individually numbered and signed.

BREMONT

ALT1-C PW

A Swiss automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve delivers functions that include: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, and a chronograph with center seconds hand and 30-minute counter. The 43mm steel case is polished and hardened. The dial is etched metal with offwhite colors. The watch is COSC certified.

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CLASSIQUE 5277

CARL F. BUCHERER

MANERO POWER RESERVE

Featured in rose gold with a black or white dial, this 42.5mm timepiece boasts a classic design with technical know-how. An automatic manufacture caliber CFB A1011 powers the watch, with a power reserve of 55 hours. Functions include: power reserve indication, big date, day of the week, hours, minutes and small seconds.

CECIL PURNELL

PASSAGE DE Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;HEURE

With its own V13 caliber, showing the passage of hours rather than the number of hours, this monopusher-controlled chiming watch with tourbillon offers a large display at the top of its dial to show the state of the 55-hour power reserve. Pictured in rose gold.

CHOPARD

This bead-blasted titanium timepiece measures 44.5mm and is water resistant to 100 meters with a titanium crown and steel bezel (with black aluminum insert). The caseback bears the Automobile Club de Monaco logo. A self-winding movement with a 46-hour power reserve powers the piece. The watch is COSC-certified with functions that include: hours, minutes, seconds, date and power reserve indicator.

CHRONOSWISS

SIRIUS BIG DATE

Presented in stainless steel, this watch features hours, minutes, and seconds, big date window and power reserve display. The 26-part case measures 44mm and houses an automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately forty hours. The watch is on a Louisiana crocodile leather strap.

GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE POWER CONTROL

CORUM

TI-BRIDGE POWER RESERVE

This watch is a limited production of fifty pieces featuring a red gold tonneau-shaped case. This dial is black and an unusual in-house manually wound movement with a 72-hour power reserve powers the piece. Functions include: minutes, hours and power reserve.

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WATCH GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

POWER RESERVES

DAVOSA

CLASSIC POWER RESERVE AUTOMATIC

This 40mm stainless steel timepiece features hand-applied indexes and numbers under a sapphire crystal. The screw-down steel back offers a view of the movement through a viewing window. The dial displays the power reserve indicator and date. An automatic movement powers the piece, which is water resistant to fifty meters.

DE BETHUNE

An in-house mechanical hand-wound movement powers this timepiece with a four-day power reserve. The 43mm titanium case is mirror-polished with a platinum bezel. The dial is black with both Roman and Arabic numerals and includes a power reserve indication at 6 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. Additional functions include: hours, minutes, central jumping seconds and tourbillon.

D.FREEMONT

SAPPHIRE GMT-POWER RESERVE

This 37mm stainless steel timepiece features a gold alloy bezel and sapphire crystal, in addition to a screw-down view caseback. An ETA 2892 A-2 movement powers this piece, which is water resistant to fifty meters. The watch is presented on an Italian leather strap with deployant buckle.

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DB28ST BLACK

F.P. JOURNE

OCTA RESERVE DE MARCHE

This 40mm timepiece features uni-directional winding, and date setting, and by turning the crown the opposite way, time setting and an instantaneous date change function. An in-house automatic-winding movement powers the watch with a power reserve of five days. Indications include: hours and minutes, small seconds, large date, and power reserve indicator.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

SEA HAWK

This timepiece has a cobalt blue and coral orange dial with a 44mm steel and rubber case. It has water resistance of 1,000 meters and is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement featuring a 46-hour power reserve. Functions include: hours, minutes, small seconds, date and power reserve indicator.

GREUBEL FORSEY

Designed by Robert Filliou, this is a custom timepiece featuring a 43.5mm white gold case, bronze dial and brown alligator strap. Inside is the fully in-house GF Double Tourbillion 30 degrees movement and the dial reads “Bien Fait, Mal Fait and Pas Fait” which denotes the remaining power.

HABRING2

TIME-ONLY POWER RESERVE

This timepiece features a 42mm stainless steel case made of three parts. It’s water resistant to fifty meters and individually engraved with a serial number. The dial is available in a variety of colors and custom dials are available on request. An in-house manually wound movement with a 48-hour power reserve is at the heart of this piece.

ROBERT FILLIOU ART PIECE

HUBLOT

CLASSIC FUSION TITANIUM POWER RESERVE

This 45mm polished and satin-finished titanium timepiece features a black satin-finished sunray dial and polished rhodium-plated appliques and hands. The watch features a manual-winding in-house movement with eight-day power reserve.

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POWER RESERVES

HYT

SKULL – GREEN EYE

Housed within a 51mm black DLC brushed and micro-blasted titanium case is an unusual manual winding HYT caliber. Functions include retrograde green fluid hours. The dial features a seconds indicator within the left eye and a power reserve indicator in the right eye. The dial is black with gray anthracite indexes and gray numerals.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

This 42mm white gold timepiece is equipped with an in-house eight-day manually wound movement that is both skeletonized and engraved. Functions include: hours and minutes, perpetual calendar, security indicator, day/night indicator, and power reserve indicator.

MB&F

LEGACY MACHINE N°1

Its horological movement was developed for MB&F by Chronode and created by Jean-Francois Mojon and Kari Voutilainen. The movement is manually wound with a single mainspring barrel and 45-hour power reserve. Functions include: hours and minutes, independent dual time zones on two dials and a unique vertical power reserve.

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MASTER GRANDE TRADITION À QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUAL 8 JOURS SQ

MÜHLE GLASHÜTTE

“R. MÜHLE & SOHN” – THE ANNIVERSARY EDITION 1869-2014

This timepiece is a 145-piece limited edition with a silver dial and blue hands. The 44mm brushed/polished stainless steel case features a transparent caseback to exhibit the hand-wound movement with a 56-hour power reserve.

ORIS

CALIBER 110

This timepiece features a ten-day power reserve with a non-linear power reserve indication to mark the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 110-year anniversary and 110 years of movement manufacturing. The multi-piece case measures 43mm and is available in rose gold or stainless steel with polished surfaces.

PATEK PHILIPPE

A mechanical in-house self-winding movement powers this 40mm steel timepiece, featuring moon phases, date by hand and a power reserve indicator. The black-blue dial features applied gold hour markers with a luminescent coating and the caseback is clear sapphire.

PORSCHE DESIGN

THE INDICATOR

This unusual titanium timepiece is a specially designed automatic chronograph with a mechanical digital display of the stop time. The design was based on the Porsche Carrera GT. The push pieces mimic the pedals of the car and the rotor recalls the wheels while the black strap has the same tread pattern as the tires of the car.

NAUTILUS REF. 5712/1A-001

RICHARD MILLE

RM030

A skeletonized in-house automatic movement, with hours, minutes, central seconds, date, power reserve (55 hours), winding indicator and Milleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own adjustable rotor geometry, powers this tonneaushaped timepiece. A sapphire dial with anti-glare treatment shields the movement.

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POWER RESERVES

ROGER DUBUIS

HOMMAGE TRIBUTE TO MR. DUBUIS

This hand-wound timepiece is inspired by a model launched in 2003 and features the same combination of those original functions: the flying tourbillon, a large date display, and a power reserve indicator. The 45mm rose gold case features Mr. Dubuis’ signature engraved on the back. The white lacquered dial is accented with pink gold. The watch is a limited edition of 208 pieces.

ROMAIN JEROME

This timepiece is a 25-piece limited edition presented on a black alligator strap. A mechanical self-winding movement with flying tourbillon powers the piece and it has a power reserve of 42-hours. The 44.5mm steel case is coated in black PVD with elements from the Apollo 11 space shuttle. The dark gray dial contains moon dust with a laser-engraved “stellar pattern” and integrated X-shaped traverses.

RALPH LAUREN

SPORTING WORLDTIME

This 45mm piece is powered by a mechanical, self-winding manufacture movement and has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Functions include: hours, minutes, center seconds, date, dual time function, day/night indication and power reserve indication.

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MOON ORBITER

URWERK

UR-105M ‘IRON KNIGHT’

An in-house UR 5.01 self-winding caliber powers this steel and titanium piece, and it offers a 42-hour power reserve. Hours, minutes and 10 seconds are indicated on the dial and lateral seconds and power reserve indications are found on the case band.

ULYSSE NARDIN

MARINE CHRONOMETER MANUFACTURE

This 43mm rose gold timepiece is a limited edition of 888 pieces. The selfwinding caliber UN-118 powers the watch and features small seconds and a power reserve indicator. The piece is water resistant to 100 meters and has a white enamel dial.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

This Geneva-Hallmarked timepiece features a polished 39.5mm pink gold case. Its caseback is screwed and transparent, made of sapphire crystal. The dial is opaline with a circular satin-finish, and an in-house mechanical self-winding movement powers the piece with a 40-hour power reserve.

VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY

AIRBOSS MECHANICAL

This 42mm steel timepiece is designed as a flight instrument with luminescent Arabic numerals and a Swiss mechanical movement. The watch features a power gauge on the dial and water resistance of 100 meters.

TRADITIONNELLE DAY-DATE AND POWER RESERVE

ZENITH

EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER POWER RESERVE

This 42mm steel timepiece features a black sunray dial and an opening reveals the legendary beating heart of the El Primero automatic columnwheel chronograph. Functions include: hours and minutes, small seconds, central chronograph hand, 30-minute counter and power reserve indication.

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BACKSTORY BACKSTORY

AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon Movement: Hand-wound Audemars Piguet Caliber 2930 features a twin barrel ensuring ten-day power reserve, tourbillon and second time-zone GMT display. For this model, Audemars Piguet incorporated ceramic into the movement itself, replacing the blackened upper bridge of Calibre 2913 with white ceramic. As a result, the new Calibre 2930 is visually transformed with an hourglass-shaped bridge enlivened by the double symmetry of the tourbillon bridges and GMT display. Its timekeeping is regulated by a 3Hz (21,600vph) escapement, rotating inside a tourbillon carriage every sixty seconds. Calibre 2930â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two ten-day barrels feed energy into the gear train at

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the same time via a single pinion bridging the two. This is a far gentler means of transmitting energy than the usual system of two series-linked five-day barrels. It also reduces pressure in the gearing, the friction in the barrels is used to offset torque variations, and it gives increased running precision, greater power reserve and enhanced reliability. Case: 44mm titanium case with sapphire crystal and caseback, black anodized aluminum inner bezel, white ceramic bezel and push pieces, screwlocked crown. Water resistance is 100 meters.

ZENITH Limited Edition EL Primero Lightweight Movement: El Primero 4052 W, automatic with a 36,000-bph frequency. Caliber is 6.60 mm thick with 334 components. Power reserve is fifty hours. Case: 45mm carbon. Its inner structure is made of ceramized aluminum, (1800 Vickers, compared to 160-200 Vickers for 316L steel). The two chronograph pushpieces are made of titanium.

bridge and pallet-wheel bridge are made of titanium. Double chronograph wheel, lever and an escape-wheel are silicon. The result is a one-quarter lighter than traditional El Primero, weighing 15.45 grams compared with 21.10 grams for a similar classic movement.

Lightweight movement components: Mainplate, barrel bridge, balance bridge, chronograph bridge, pallet

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COVER STORY COVER STORY

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TEN YEARS OF

TRAVELTEC CARL F. BUCHERER CELEBRATES A MILESTONE, ADDS ROSE GOLD MODELS AND SWIMS WITH THE MANTA RAYS IN THE NAME OF ECOLOGY

BY CAROL BESLER

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COVER STORY COVER STORY

The TravelTec II celebrates the tenth anniversary of the TravelTec collection. The caseback of the TravelTec II is adorned with a time-zone sun that shows the hour differences in twenty-four cities. Lucerne, the home base of Carl F. Bucherer, is accented in black.

he Patravi TravelTec was ahead of its time when it was introduced ten years ago, with its robust case, multiple functions and bold markings. To celebrate the anniversary of the collection, Carl F. Bucherer is introducing the TravelTec II. This newest edition has all the hallmarks of the original, including a large, sporty case, (now even larger, at 47.4mm in diameter and 15.9mm thick), and an in-house caliber. The new movement, CFB 1901.1, features a built in complication that allows the simultaneous display of three time zones, along with a chronograph function. The date can be adjusted forward or backwards for easy setting. The third time zone on this unique watch is applied to the bezel, which features a second 24hour scale. This unique focus on the world’s time zones and the ability to see three at a glance is embellished on the caseback, which is adorned with a time-zone sun that shows the hour differences in twenty-four cities. This is an aesthetic, rather than a functional feature. Lucerne, the home base of Carl F. Bucherer, is accented in black. It is a true sports watch, with water resistance to one hundred meters and a rubber strap that has an extension feature. Tourbillon & chronograph The Limited Edition Manero Tourbillon joins the new Patravi models in the lineup of pieces from Carl F. Bucherer this year that are aimed at collectors. This version, issued in 188 pieces, is dressed up with a new satin-brushed dial in a velvety brown color. The in-house manufacture movement CFB T1001 has a 70-hour power reserve. The twenty-four-

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“

The caseback is adorned with a timezone sun that shows the hour differences in twenty-four cities.”

The Carl F. Bucherer Patravi Manero Chrono Perpetual was made exclusively for the Only Watch auction, held to support research into the prevention of muscular dystrophy. It is one of 40 one-of-a-kind timepieces to be auctioned in November for the charity.

The caseback of the Manero Chrono Perpetual is a unique piece created for the Only Watch auction to support research into muscular dystrophy.

hour display, date index and power reserve add function to this powerful dress watch. The wedge-shaped hour markers and tapering hours and minute hands are typical of the Manero line. Adding to the stable of high complications is the Manero ChronoPerpetual, an exclusive piece made for the Only Watch auction, which benefits the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy. Carl F. Bucherer is among the group of elite watch brands that support this charity auction, held every two years, by donating a special timepiece that is the only one of its kind. The latest model is a combination perpetual calendar/flyback chronograph, with a white gold case and Carl F. Buchererâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unmistakable bold, sporty style. The Perpetual Calendar function will not require correction until the year 2100, when, as in all years divisible by 100, but not by 400, one leap year will be skipped. The auction is in November and is sponsored by Prince Albert II of Monaco. The charity was founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino, whose son, Paul, was diagnosed with Duchenne muscular dystrophy, a debilitating neuromuscular disease that affects one boy in every 3,500. Prince Albert has been a strong supporter of the charity, and he and Pettavino recently were awarded the title of Doctor Honoris Causa, given by the University of Bern to people who have made a mark in a particular field. Forty watch companies have already donated one-of-a-kind timepieces to this cause.

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COVER STORY

“ COVER STORY

The dive models are engraved with two rays to symbolize the Manta Trust, which aims to preserve of these at-risk sea creatures.”

The Patravi ScubaTec, with a helium valve visible on the case side, is water resistant to 500 meters.

The caseback of the Patravi ScubaTec is decorated with a relief engraving of two manta rays. Carl F. Bucherer supports the Manta Trust, which is dedicated to preserving the ocean’s manta rays.

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Manta rays Another powerful collection, the Patravi ScubaTec, is now available in a rose gold case, transforming it into an elegant dress/sports watch. The new rose gold case creates a powerful new look for the ScubaTec, creating a bold color combination with the model’s black and blue ceramic inlays on the bezel, and against the patterned black dial. The helium valve, rubber strap with integrated adjustment, fivehundred-meter depth rating and chronometer-approved movement (automatic Caliber 1950.1) make this a serious dive watch. Even in murky waters, the diver can still read the time thanks to a generous application of SuperLuminova, which glows light blue in the dark. The unique shade of blue on the ceramic bezel – the same color as the blue dial, when it glows in the dark – was developed exclusively for Carl F. Bucherer. The caseback is engraved with two rays to symbolize the Manta Trust, which is dedicated to the preservation of these at-risk sea creatures. Carl F. Bucherer supports the organization and has adopted two manta rays (one called ScubaTec and the other, TravelTec), which are tagged as part of a research project. “Through observation and scientific analysis of this majestic sea creature, Manta Trust wants to raise awareness of the fragility of the underwater ecosystem,” says Carl F. Bucherer CEO Sascha Moeri. “By attaching satellite transmitters to the manta rays, the project intends to shed new insights into the life of these gentle giants.” The information gathered will allow for the introduction of far-reaching measures of protection for the manta rays. Once the data has been gathered and analyzed, the journeys of ScubaTec and TravelTec across the Pacific Ocean will be traced on Manta Trust’s home page (www. mantatrust.org). “This commitment demonstrates how important it is to protect our planet and its inhabitants— across all borders,” says Guy Stevens, a marine biologist and CEO of Manta Trust.

LADIES WATCHES Carl F. Bucherer has also been a trailblazer in the category of ladies’ watches. In 1919, Founder Carl Friedrich Bucherer was one of the first to focus on the wristwatch – which was originally invented for women, as a piece of jewelry that tells time. He introduced an Art-Deco-inspired ladies’ collection. That collection was the first of many launched over the years for women, and this year, Carl F. Bucherer continues the tradition with solid gold versions of its new Pathos collection, which is distinctive for the signature wave design and filigree grid. Pathos incorporates a grid element on the inner bezel and case sides, adding a decorative flair that is unlike any other timepiece. The enamel-like surface that is exposed underneath the grid is a synthetic material called nerolith, which is colorfast and very hard. It is preferable to ceramic, says the company, because ceramic is difficult to color, and future models of the Pathos may highlight different colors of nerolith under the grid. The effect it creates is described by the company as the “aureole,” a gleaming cut-out pattern in rose gold that hugs the case band and inner bezel, creating an interplay of reflected light across the watch case. Carl F. Bucherer is among a growing number of watch brands that offer ladies’ collections with the technical merit of automatic mechanical movements. The Pathos Diva, with a 34mm case size, is set with fiftyfour diamonds and contains the automatic Caliber CFB 1963. The Pathos Queen, with a 26.5mm case, contains the automatic Caliber CFB 1969. The case and bracelet of both are rose gold. The Bucherer Group, founded in 1888, remains a family-run business today, with a worldwide chain of stores and a watch collection that is distributed globally. It is currently in its third generation, managed by the owner and Chairman of the Board of Directors, Jörg G. Bucherer.

“

Carl F. Bucherer has also been a trailblazer in the category of ladies’ watches.”

Left: A pattern cut out of the rose gold case band and inner bezel create an interplay of reflected light on the Carl F. Bucherer Pathos Diva and Queen. Top Right: The Pathos Queen, with a 26.5mm case, contains the automatic Caliber CFB 1969. Top Left: The Pathos Diva, with a 34mm case size, is set with 54 diamonds.

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A VISIT TO ZENITH WAS HIGH ON MY BUCKET LIST AND I WAS EXHILARATED BY THE JURA MOUNTAIN AIR AND ANTICIPATION AS MY CAR WENDED ITS WAY FROM GENEVA TO THE MANUFACTORY IN LE LOCLE. TO DESCRIBE THE COUNTRYSIDE AS PICTURESQUE IS SUCH A GROSS MALFUNCTION OF WORDS THAT I WON’T EVEN ATTEMPT IT. BUT I WILL SAY THAT I’D NEVER SEEN EVERGREEN STANDS, POWDERED WITH NEW SNOW, ORGANIZED IN SUCH ESSENTIAL FORMATION.

Academy: Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II

ZENITH

150

counts

LE LOCLE, A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE DESIGNATED FOR ITS CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE, IS THE THIRD SMALLEST CITY IN SWITZERLAND AT JUST OVER 10,000 PEOPLE. BUT IT IS A PLACE THAT HAS BEEN CRITICAL TO WATCHMAKING SINCE THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. THE VESTIGES OF THE EARLY WATCH INDUSTRY ARE STILL EVIDENT IN LE LOCLE’S PATCHWORK OF RESIDENCES AND WORKSHOPS. THE MUSÉE D’HORLOGERIE DU LOCLE, CHÂTEAU DES MONTS, LOCATED IN A HISTORIC COUNTRY MANOR HOUSE NORTH OF THE CITY CENTER, OFFERS AN IMPRESSIVE GLIMPSE OF THE HOROLOGICAL UNDERPINNINGS OF THE REGION. 85

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years

BY NANCY OLSON

he relative isolation of the area—somewhat mitigated by the first rail link in 1857—and the harsh Swiss-mountain winters, were conducive to such crafts as lacemaking and watchmaking. But it was watchmaking that would eventually transform the city and Georges Favre-Jacot who would revolutionize production practices. It was he who invited the various local artisans to work under one roof, thereby—and perhaps initially unwittingly—creating a true timepiece manufacture. Favre-Jacot then had the ingenious idea of varying the artisans’ tasks to avoid monotony by moving them from one workstation to another throughout the workday. So thanks to seating fixed on rails—somewhat like today’s rolling office chairs—workers could change location without getting up and also maintain their relative position to the workbench in the process. Influenced by the budding U.S. auto industry, Favre-Jacot also employed a radical system of vertical manufacturing, whereby a foundry, rolling mills, stamping presses, case and dial production and more were all achieved within the manufacture for reasons of both efficiency and independence. In addition, the company’s thoughtful proximity to the Le Locle train station—a literal stone’s throw from the Zenith property—opened a door to the world. As another example of Favre-Jacot’s prescience, the buildings that made up the manufactory in its early years were the first in the town to be equipped with electricity. They were also connected by passages so that workers could move about without being exposed to the elements. So, too, they were spacious and filled with natural light—a true benefit when working with small timepiece parts.

One of Zenith’s original manufacturing buildings still displays its founder’s initials. As a UNESCO site, Le Locle is charged with preserving this historic façade.

Though the company was technically founded by Favre-Jacot in 1865, the name Zenith didn’t appear until 1897 on the movement of certain pocket watches. Still later, in 1911, the name “Zenith” was officially adopted as both the marque of the brand and the description of its sky-high goals. Today, the monogram “G.F.J.” is as evident on the exterior of the main building as is the name “Zenith,” signifying the inextricable nature of the man and his work. Incidentally, the bricks, now painted in red and white, were produced at a nearby company residing next to a quarry owned by the entrepreneurial Favre-Jacot. As a UNESCO site Le Locle is charged with preserving this historic and remarkable façade. Inside Zenith is today the antithesis of the Le Locle cottage industry that once was, with its eighteen buildings, state-of-the-art machinery, more than 200 employees, and production of about 42,000 watches per year. But the hands-on spirit of those early roots remains despite the technology that has interceded. Eighty different production specialties take place here, from the artistic to the technical: research and development, tool-making, prototype-making, movement ébauches, stamping, decoration, assembling and casing, polishing and much more. Not surprisingly, such things as springs, hands and dials, among a few other things like stone setting, are outsourced. But fully eighty percent of the movement is made in-house. Though one would think I’d be over it by now, I’m always amazed at the impossibly small size of watch movement components and the equally impossible tolerances involved. According to Zenith literature, “a generously sized watch case is a small container housing between 150 to 1,000 parts.” Making them interact in a smooth and precise way is a mechanical miracle. As an aside, another of Favre-Jacot’s contributions to the watch industry, and his company’s efficiency in particular, was his production of interchangeable watch parts. I’m equally in awe of the decoration workshops where feats of aesthetics executed by highly trained and no doubt humble artisans take place. Here, delicate beveling, circular graining and snailing are hand-rendered on parts that may never be seen, adding yet another dimension to the concept of luxury.

Toys in the Attic I’d often heard the tale of the loyal Zenith employee, Charles Vermot, who purportedly “saved the company” by hiding the original tooling, parts and notes for the El Primero in the manufactory attic during the early quartz era. As the story goes, he moved equipment and documents, against specific company directives, to preserve the history and culture of the firm he so loved. Interestingly, in the 1980s, when mechanical movement manufacturing resumed, the documentation and equipment were unearthed and Vermot received the acclaim he earned. Engaging stories aside, it was thrilling to walk the length of this narrow attic and see the handwritten notes from employees past and the

Fusee-Chain Transmission

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Historic view of the Zenith Manufacture in Le Locle New Zenith Elite 6150. Its new 42mm ultra-slim case will become a new benchmark size for the brand.

remaining equipment left fallow. It felt like entering a time warp, where stories live in the air like dust motes, and one need only be there to understand. Anniversary This year Zenith is celebrating its 150th anniversary and started rolling out some commemorative products, like the Academy: Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II, late last year. This ten-piece limited edition comprises many of the artistic crafts for which Zenith is known, including engraving and micropainting. And the brand’s unique expression of fine watchmaking is evidenced by the patented gravity control system, fusée-chain transmission, and an exceptional frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour. Baselworld introductions include the new Elite 6150 caliber and a model of the same name. The 42mm ultra-slim case will become a new benchmark size for the brand. The El Primero Sport collection is welcoming a new chronograph, with three variations and more to follow. This 45mm steel watch—on a leather strap, rubber strap or steel bracelet—is powered by the El Primero 400 B caliber with an integrated column-wheel construction. There will no doubt be more products introduced to help celebrate this momentous anniversary milestone. Rest assured that the Le Locle manufactory is already on it with the same zeal and quest for excellence as that of its founder.

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New Zenith El Primero Sport Chronograph

NautIcal TIME

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DIVE WATCHES BY RACHEL GOLD

BALL WATCH

ENGINEER HYDROCARBON NEDU This timepiece, named after Ball Ambassador and deep diver Guillaume Néry (pictured here), features a 42mm titanium case housing an ETA 7750 automatic movement. The piece is water resistant to 600 meters, and the ceramic bezel is luminous with unidirectional capabilities. Ball calls the watch the world’s first with a helium release valve incorporated in the crown.

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On the following pages we’ve gathered watches that are prepared to go deep. All are fit to wear underwater as each model is water resistant to least 200 meters and is easy to read under adverse conditions. In addition, each features a unidirectional rotating bezel, and may also include a helium release valve. These pieces, offered in a variety of prices, are perfect for professional divers or everyday beachgoers.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE DIVER

This self-winding 42mm watch features dive-time measurement and date. The piece is forged in stainless steel with a sapphire crystal and caseback. The dial is black, designed with a “Méga Tapisserie” pattern. There is also a rotating inner bezel with a diving scale. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters and is presented on a black rubber strap.

AQUADIVE

This timepiece features a 43mm case that is water resistant to 500 meters. A Vaucher Manufacture twin barrel movement, VMF3000, powers this piece, which features a power reserve of 50 hours. Functions include: hours, minutes, center seconds and subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock.

BELL & ROSS

BR02-94 ROSE GOLD & CARBON

This 44mm automatic timepiece features hours, minutes, seconds and date as well as a two-counter chronograph. The dial is black with gold applique indexes and the bezel is unidirectional. The watch has water resistance of 300 meters and is presented on a rubber or heavy-duty synthetic fabric strap.

BATHYSCAPHE 500

BLANCPAIN

OCEAN COMMITMENT BATHYSCAPHE CHRONOGRAPH FLYBACK

As one of a limited edition of 250 pieces, this 43.6mm self-winding timepiece features a unidirectional gray ceramic bezel with a blue ceramic insert and Liquidmetal hour-markers. The watch features a new high-beat Blancpain chronograph movement, and it is water resistant to 300 meters.

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DIVE WATCHES

BREGUET

MARINE ROYALE

Featuring an alarm that will sound even at depths of 300 meters, this piece is a boutique exclusive made in red gold. The watch has a chocolate-toned dial and a brown rubber strap. In addition, the watch boasts a unidirectional rotating bezel, a hand-engraved dial, and a selfwinding movement with date.

BREITLING

Featuring a redesigned dial and bezel, a slimmer profile and the option of a 36mm, 42mm or 44mm case, this reinvention of the first Superocean, launched in 1957, is COSC certified, features a unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel and is water resistant to 1,000 meters.

BREMONT

SUPERMARINE 2000

This 45mm timepiece was designed to withstand depths of 2,000 meters. An automatic chronometer movement powers the piece, featuring a skeletonized decorated rotor. The case is forged in stainless steel with a unidirectional rotating bezel and an automatic helium escape valve. The dial is metal with SuperLuminova-coated hands and numerals.

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SUPEROCEAN II â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 44MM

CARTIER

CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER

Featured in pink gold (or steel), this fully certified diver houses a selfwinding manufacture mechanical movement within a 42mm case. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters and the dial is black and partially snailed. The crown is faceted pink gold set with a faceted sapphire, and the bezel is unidirectional.

CHANEL

MONTRE J12 MARINE 3

Part of the J12 Marine collection, this automatic timepiece is featured in sandblasted high-tech ceramic and steel with a notched unidirectional rotating bezel equipped with a graduated 60-minute high-tech ceramic disc with a luminous marker at 12 oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;clock. The watch is presented on a matte rubber strap with openings to allow the evacuation of water, as the piece is water resistant to 300 meters.

CITIZEN

This timepiece is powered by light and never needs a battery change. The piece is also ISO-certified with water resistance of 300 meters. The steel case measures 47mm in diameter and features a unidirectional rotating elapsed-time bezel.

CORUM

ADMIRALâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CUP AC-ONE 45 TIDES

This 45mm titanium blue-dialed timepiece is powered by an automatic movement featuring hours and minutes, seconds, date, moonphase and tides coefficient, timing of the next two high and low tides, and the current strength and tidal process indicator. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters and comes on a blue vulcanized rubber bracelet.

PROMASTER DIVER

DEEP BLUE

DEPTHMASTER 3000

Boasting a water resistance of 3,000 meters and bright luminescent indications, this 49mm steel model with an automatic Miyota movement also features a 6mm-thick sapphire crystal, helium valve, domed bezel and solid steel deployant clasp and solid diver extension. Several dial colors are available.

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DIVE WATCHES

DOXA

MISSION 31 SUB

This watch is a modern titanium-cased version of the popular DOXA watch that Jean Michel Cousteau and his father wore. The lightweight case measures 44mm and is a commemorative limited series of 331 timepieces. An ETA 2824-2 automatic movement powers the watch; it boasts a water resistance of 1,000 meters.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

This 44mm steel and rubber timepiece highlights its blue and orange hues. It features a screw-down caseback and water resistance of 1,000 meters. The watch is equipped with the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in-house GP03300-0074 automatic movement with a 46-hour power reserve.

GRAHAM

PRODIVE BLACK AND GOLD

This DLC-coated stainless steel 45mm timepiece houses a chronograph movement with mono-pusher. The watch is water resistant to 2,000 feet, and the case is adorned with a unidirectional rotating bezel and fast-acting gold trigger activating start, stop and reset functions.

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SEA HAWK

HAMILTON

KHAKI NAVY SUB

The historic Hamilton Piping Rock inspired this timepiece. The 42mm steel piece is water resistant to 300 meters and offers a screw-down crown. At the heart of the timepiece is an automatic ETA 2824-2 movement. The watch is also available with an orange dial.

HUBLOT

KING POWER 48MM OCEANOGRAPHIC 4000 KING GOLD WHITE

In association with the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, this diver is able to withstand the pressure exerted at a depth of 4,000 meters. The King Power 48mm piece is a limited series of 100 pieces. The dial is matte white with satin-finished appliques with SuperLuminova. The watch is presented on a white rubber strap.

IWC

Water resistant to 300 meters, this 44mm mechanical self-winding chronograph is featured in stainless steel on a black rubber strap with a blue dial. The piece features a mechanical external/internal rotating bezel with a SafeDive system, displays the date and day, and also boasts a stopwatch function. The watch has a screw-in crown and is water resistant to 300 meters.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

MASTER COMPRESSOR DIVING PRO GEOGRAPHIC

This timepiece is equipped with a patented mechanical depth gauge on the side of the case and its movement allows the user to select a city by turning the crown, displaying the time on a large disc at 9 o’clock. The titanium case is water resistant to 300 meters.

AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH EDITION “EXPEDITION JACQUES-YVES COUSTEAU”

JEANRICHARD

HOKUSAI BLACK DIAL

Part of the Aquascope collection, this timepiece pays homage to Japanese artist Hokusai’s “The Great Wave at Kanagawa.” The black DLC-coated steel case measures 44mm and the bezel is also black DLC-coated. The dial is engraved with a wave motif and features suspended black nickel indexes and hands with blue luminescent paint. The timepiece is water resistant

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DIVE WATCHES

JORG GRAY

JG9700-24

This 46mm stainless steel timepiece features a two-tone bezel in blue and silver. A Swiss Ronda quartz chronograph movement powers the piece. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters and is presented on a stainless steel bracelet.

LONGINES

Housed within a vintage-style cushion-shaped 43mm stainless steel case with a screw-in bezel, caseback and crown is a self-winding mechanical movement. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters and has a black satin-finished dial.

LUMINOX

THE SCOTT CASSEL SET #3955

New this spring, this timepiece supports Scott Cassel’s Undersea Voyager Project. The watch is 44mm and water resistant to 200 meters with ‘UVP’ on the dial. A black nylon strap with yellow stripes is what the watch is presented on, but the set includes two additional interchangeable straps, a strap extender, a changing tool and a compass.

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HERITAGE DIVER

MAURICE LACROIX

PONTOS S DIVER

Housed within a steel 43mm case, a Swiss mechanical movement drives this timepiece. The watch is water resistant to 600 meters and features a helium escape valve within its retro design. This dial is black with applied SuperLuminova indexes.

MTM SPECIAL OPS

THE SEAL

This diving tool features a 44mm titanium case with a silicone strap. The 4.5mm sapphire crystal is anti-reflective and scratch resistant and the watch boasts an automatic helium release valve, as the piece is water resistant to 1,000 meters. The dial features easy-to-read tritium tubes on the indexes and hands that illuminate at any depth.

MÜHLE GLASHÜTTE

Kampfschwimmer is the name of the Special Operations Forces of the German Navy, for which this watch was designed. It is a 44mm piece with a bezel that provides a three-minute division during diving in addition to a compass. The watch is water resistant to 300 meters and the large SuperLuminova-coated hands provide easy readability.

ORIS

AQUIS DATE ORANGE

New to Oris’ line of diving watches, this 43mm timepiece features a multipiece stainless steel case, screw-in caseback and crown protection with gunmetal PVD-coating, and it is water resistant to 300 meters. The watch also has a diver’s unidirectional bezel with an orange and white minute scale on a black ceramic inlay. The automatic watch is presented on an orange rubber strap.

KAMPFSCHWIMMER

PANERAI

PAM00615

Equipped with Panerai’s own automatic column-wheel chronograph caliber, P.9100, with flyback function, this 47mm model is fully ISO compliant, water resistant to 300 meters and features a rubber strap and a spare strap, a screwdriver and the special tool for changing the strap.

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DIVE WATCHES

PORSCHE DESIGN

Pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;6780 DIVER

This all-black timepiece is water resistant to 1,000 meters. The case is designed in shot-blasted stainless steel and entirely coated in black PVD. A Sellita SW300 automatic movement drives it.

REACTOR

Featuring a solid titanium case and bracelet, this automatic timepiece has been depth tested to 1,000 meters. The watch also has a 120click unidirectional timing bezel and inner ring timing bezel. Patented Never-Dark dial technology keeps this watch easy to read under any adverse conditions.

RICHARD MILLE

RM028

Cased in a 47mm three-part case, this timepiece features a unidirectional bezel and has water resistance of 300 meters. The skeletonized automatic movement utilizes a rotor with variable geometry that allows the level of automatic winding to be adjusted to the userâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lifestyle. Additional functions include: hours, minutes, central seconds and date.

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POSEIDON LE TITANIUM

ROMAIN JEROME

THE OCTOPUS

Jules Verne-inspired, this 46mm timepiece features two crowns: one for the elapsed time control and one to set the watch. The piece is a limited edition of 888 watches and features water resistance of 270 meters. It has an internal unidirectional rotating bezel system and a notched bezel that contains oxidized and stabilized steel from the Titanic.

SEIKO

PROSPEX KINETIC GMT DIVER

Part of the Prospex collection, this watch features a black ion-finished stainless steel case and black silicone strap. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters and the dial is three-dimensional with raised hour markers. The 47.5mm watch also features a GMT function.

TISSOT

This chronograph is water resistant to 300 meters. It features a unidirectional bezel, a strap with a diverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buckle and extension, and it has SuperLuminova-coated hands and markings. It also features a helium escape valve and its dial is blue with large easy-to-read numerals.

TUDOR

PELAGOS

This 42mm titanium and steel model has a satin finish with helium escape valve and unidirectional bezel, and it is powered by a selfwinding in-house mechanical movement. The piece is water resistant to 500 meters. The watch is presented on a titanium bracelet with a screwdown crown, folding clasp, safety catch and bracelet extension system.

SEASTAR 1000

ULYSSE NARDIN

MARINE DIVER

This 44mm self-winding timepiece displays large hour-markers and hands on its dial with white luminescent coating and a red stripe on each marker to effect perfect visibility. The watch features a screwlocked crown, rotating bezel and a stainless steel case that is water resistant to 300 meters.

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A Seaworthy Complication BY JASON HEATON

The mechanical regatta timer may be the most appropriate wrist device for skippers vying for the lay line.

The Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback in its intended element.

o the uninitiated, the start of a sailing regatta appears to be utter chaos. Yachts lean precariously, crisscrossing in front of each other, avoiding expensive collisions by mere inches. Right-of-way shouts from skipper to skipper can be heard above the groaning of winches and the flapping of sails. Then the cannon fires and the boats cross an imaginary line in the water on their way to the first marker buoy and things become silent again as the boats start to race. Despite appearances, there is a method to all this madness. Regattas are won and lost at the start and success depends upon crossing the “lay line” just as the cannon sounds, sails filled at top speed. Cross too early

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and you’re penalized. Be too cautious and you’ll be at the back of the fleet. The trick is all in the timing and the closer a skipper can synchronize his own countdown with that of the official start timer, the better his chances of being in the right place at the right time. To that end, watch companies have risen to the challenge, making regatta watches with niche complications that, despite their narrow purpose, have been popular with competitive skippers and landlubbers alike. T-minus The function of a regatta watch is brutally simple: count down to the start time of a race. As boats gather in the starting area, race officials announce,

“The mechanical regatta watch is still as applicable today as it was when it was first introduced in the 1960s.” via bullhorn, blasts from an air horn, or by radio, the start of the countdown clock, typically fifteen minutes out. Then, at regular intervals, updates are announced until, at T-minus five minutes, every minute is announced and then the final ten seconds before the starting cannon or horn is sounded. Since sailboats don’t do well from a dead stop, they must tack or gybe into position in the crowded waters behind the starting buoys, and being full speed ahead at the start is critical. Having a countdown on his wrist is a huge help for a skipper jockeying for position. In reality, any chronograph (preferably a water resistant one) can be used as a regatta watch, and many are. Often the first fifteen minutes of the minute totalizer will be colored red to highlight the critical time period. A skipper merely needs to start the chronograph to synch it with the race official’s announcement. But some watch companies have modified a chronograph movement to make the countdown timer even more visible and intuitive. In 1961, JeanRichard, which owned the now-defunct brand Aquastar, patented a regatta function that utilized five discs on the dial to indicate alternating fiveminute periods of the countdown. The discs were colored; as the minutes passed, each disc would change from red to silver to blue while the sweep seconds hand tracked on a finer scale. When the final disc changed color, the countdown was over. The Aquastar Regate was the first of its kind to adorn skippers’ wrists and ushered in the era of the regatta watch, an era that continues today with a healthy crop of sailing-specific watches. Yacht models TAG Heuer has a long history of sailing watches, going back to the tidetracking Seafarer that Heuer made for outfitter Abercrombie and Fitch in the 1960s and the legendary Skipper chronograph of the 1970s. More recently, as a principal sponsor of the America’s Cup-winning Oracle Racing team, TAG Heuer released a regatta timer called the Aquaracer Calibre 72 Countdown Chronograph. Working on the same principle as the long-expired Aquastar patent, regatta timing on this watch is done using a rotating disc under the dial that changes color as the countdown reaches zero. With 500 meters of water resistance and a rotating bezel, this Aquaracer can easily double as a dive watch as well. Omega also has a long history of sailing watches going back to the Seamaster Yachting watches of the 1960s and 1970s and has supported Team New Zealand in its own America’s Cup efforts since the 1990s. Omega’s past America’s Cup edition Seamasters are now highly collectible. For the latest edition of the Cup, Omega once again sponsored Team New Zealand and offered a special edition chronograph with five-minute regatta markings on the minute totalizer, a rubber strap and sported black and red Team New Zealand livery. While TAG Heuer and Omega sponsored America’s Cup teams, Louis Vuitton was the official timekeeper of the historic race and built its own regatta timing watch: the Tambour Spin Time Regate. Louis Vuitton’s own Fabrique du Temps manufacture developed the movement that powers this watch, which is both innovative and intuitive. A button on the side of the case switches the watch from chronograph to regatta mode, indicated by the aperture at 12, and the chronograph’s thirty-

In honor of its sponsorship of Oracle Team USA (below) in the America’s Cup, TAG Heuer created this limited edition Calibre 72 Countdown Automatic Chronograph.

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minute totalizer moves to the “minus 5” position. When the chronograph is started to sync with the race countdown, the sweep seconds hand starts, and when it reaches sixty seconds the first of five rotating cubes on the right side of the dial turns from red to blue. With each passing minute, the cubes continue to rotate until all are blue, at which time the boat had better be crossing the lay line. Back in chronograph mode, the Tambour Spin Time becomes a standard twelve-hour chronograph. Alpina makes two versions of a regatta countdown Yacht Timer. One of them uses the conventional series of colored discs to indicate the countdown while a limited edition version features a ten-minute numbered disc that changes to the word “START”, which becomes entirely visible when time is up. A rotating bezel adds compass bearings in place of the more conventional elapsed time typically found on dive watch bezels. Officine Panerai has a long history on the sea. Italian Navy commandos and deck officers wore Panerai in World War II and more recently it has been the primary sponsor of a Classic Yacht Challenge regatta series in the Mediterranean, Caribbean and American East Coast. The wooden sloops that compete in the series may appear genteel but their skippers are ferociously competitive, tacking for position at the lay line with abandon. Panerai’s own regatta timer, the Luminor 1950 Regatta 3 Days Chrono Flyback, is possibly the most intuitive and useful of any in its category. Appearing like a conventional chronograph, the PAM00526 actually incorporates a programmable countdown timer via the third push-piece on the right side of the case. Each click of the button moves the chronograph’s central minute sweep hand back one minute. Then, when the chronograph is started, the minutes count down to zero to the race start, after which it continues to count up, timing the duration of the regatta. Perhaps the best-known modern regatta watch is the Rolex Yacht-Master II, which also uses its own innovative timing complication. What sets this watch apart is the fact that the regatta complication is programmable and correctible. The problem with other regatta timers is that once they’re started, the watch is committed to that (typically) five-minute countdown. The Rolex on the other hand can be set to any duration of time from one to ten minutes. So if a skipper misses the initial synchronization with the official race countdown, he or she can set the Yacht-Master II timer at any minute along the countdown.

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The Rolex Yachtmaster II features a programmable regatta countdown timer and a bezel that is linked to the watch movement itself.

Corum Admiral’s Cup Seafender 48 Chrono Centro

1 2

What also makes the watch unique is that its rotating bezel is actually linked to the movement and used to set the countdown timer in conjunction with the crown and pushers. Rolex has a long history as a sponsor of prestigious regattas and, as with Panerai, one of its watches is often the grand prize given to winning skippers. While most mechanical watches and complications have been largely rendered obsolete by satellites, smartphones, dive computers and batteries, the mechanical regatta watch is still as applicable today as it was when it was first introduced in the 1960s. Sure, digital countdown watches are now available and many sailors wear them. But besides being less costly to lose to the briny deep should a strap break, they don’t do their job any better than their mechanical counterparts. And given the traditional nature of sailboat racing, which eschews more modern technologies, a mechanical regatta timer is much more fitting.

1. Omega has a long history sponsoring New Zealand’s America’s Cup teams and this Seamaster Diver 300M Co-axial Chronograph ETNZ is the latest commemorative edition. 2. Alpina’s Yacht Timer Regatta features a bold ten-minute count down ring that’s impossible to miss. 3. The new Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Regatta features a 45mm forged carbon case. 4. The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Regatta uses rotating blocks to count down the regatta start time.

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Lum ino x2 5th A

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nni ve

rsa ry e

diti

LUMINOX Luminox is a quarter-century old this year and to celebrate, the San Rafael, California-based sports watch company is debuting an anniversary series of Navy SEAL Colormark timepieces. Luminox created the first Navy SEAL Series in 1989 (which it started shipping in 1990). In 2007, the company developed a more contemporary version, adding the Colormark designation.

Luminox 25th Anniversary edition

uminox watch fans will find the 25th Anniversary model’s 44mm case extra light when compared to the Colormark steel models. That’s because this edition, like other Colormark collections, is made of carbon-reinforced polycarbonate. But a close look at the dial reveals a pattern that repeats ‘25XXV’ across and vertically. While not limited, the special 25th Anniversary edition ($395) is being sold only in 2015, explains Luminox co-founder and CEO Barry Cohen. It retains the 200-meter water resistance of previous Colormark models as well as the one-way rotating diver bezel, hardened mineral crystal and double security gasket. “We developed this series to offer our loyal customers as a way to celebrate this milestone anniversary,” he explains. Luminox is offering the watch in a choice of four dial hues: black, blue, yellow and gray. Of course, each features the self-powering illumination system Luminox pioneered when it debuted its first watches. Each Luminox watch features tiny borosilicate glass capsules that are always glowing on the hands, hour markers and on the bezels of certain models. “Our twenty-five-year existence is a testament to the continued advancements of our products and the inherent dependability that our customers demand,” adds Cohen. ANU In addition to the 25th Anniversary pieces, Luminox this year adds a first-ever ANU chronograph, model 4240. The ANU collection reprises the very first set of Navy SEAL-worn watches Luminox made twenty-five years ago. The new ANU version, which debuted last year as a threehand model, is among the toughest Luminox makes. The collection is named for a phrase given to tools that are ‘Authorized for Navy Use.’ If a piece of gear isn’t on the ANU list, it won’t be packed as gear for any maritime operation. The ANU list of equipment is provided to Navy divers today to confer an added sense of security that their gear would work when needed. What adds to the Luminox ANU’s usefulness underwater or as a timer during any field operation is the watch’s quartz chronograph that features an independent sweep second hand, independent sub dials to measure seconds and tenths of a second, and a twelve-hour elapsed timer that can also be set for countdown. As Luminox notes, chronograph functions enable “repeated timing around complicated high performance machinery and are utilized in many professions including naval submarine navigation, automobile racing and other activities where precise timing is critical.” These 45mm steel-cased ANU watches ($995) feature 200-meters of water resistance, a sapphire crystal and a unidirectional rotating diver’s bezel.

Self-powering illumination system

The new ANU chronograph

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ULYSSE NARDIN IS A NAME SEEN EMBLAZONED ON THE DIALS OF MANY OF THE WORLD’S FINEST MODERN AND VINTAGE MARINE CHRONOMETERS. NOW YOU CAN SEE THE NAME OF THIS LE LOCLE-BASED WATCHMAKING COMPANY ON THE POLISHED BLUE HULL OF A 43-FOOT POWERBOAT.

D Marine Diver Midnight Express

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eveloped in partnership with renowned extreme-performance boating manufacturer Midnight Express, the one-of-a-kind boat is powered by four 557-horsepower motors made by Seven Marine. It is painted Ulysse Nardin colors (blue and gold) and features the Ulysse Nardin logo adorning its hull, upholstery, flooring and fiberglass interior. The joint project began with the Glasers, the family that has owned Florida-based Midnight Express Powerboats for nine years. As Ulysse Nardin collectors, the family approached Bobby Yampolsky, owner and operator of the South Florida Ulysse Nardin boutiques, with the idea of a possible partnership between their two brands. After agreeing that the nautical focus of both brands made them perfect partners, Midnight Express began to outfit its flagship 43-foot Open model with the Seven Marine quad GT 557 motors and Ulysse Nardin accents. The boat debuted earlier this year along with a special watch made to commemorate the partnership. Ulysse Nardin presented a dual-branded Marine Diver Midnight Express watch crafted in stainless steel and delivered with a set of two exclusive rubber straps. The watch’s maritime theme continues with wave patterns adorning the bezel and dial. Seafaring stripes set off the strap, and a Seven Marine logo can be seen on the dial. The 44mm steel watch is a blue-dialed Marine model with a UN-26 automatic movement that operates the hours, minutes, small seconds subdial and power reserve indicator. Ulysse Nardin will include two rubber straps with each watch.

LATE LAST YEAR, IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN UNVEILED THE PORTUGUESE YACHT CLUB CHRONOGRAPH OCEAN RACER TO CELEBRATE ITS ROLE AS OFFICIAL TIMEKEEPER— FOR THE SECOND TIME—OF THE VOLVO OCEAN RACE. SEVEN TEAMS ARE VYING FOR VICTORY ON A ROUTE THAT STARTED IN ALICANTE, SPAIN, LAST OCTOBER. FOUR OCEANS AND FIVE CONTINENTS LATER, THE RACE WILL END IN GOTHENBURG, SWEDEN, IN JUNE OF THIS YEAR.

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Ocean Racer caseback with special engraving

Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Ocean Racer

he Volvo Ocean Race stretches the world’s best sailing crews to their limits,” says IWC CEO Georges Kern. “We are proud that for the second time we are the event’s Official Timekeeper, partners to the Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing team and sponsors of the 24-hour speed record: it puts us at the very center of international sailing.” This 38,739 nautical-mile race is considered one of sailing’s toughest, with wind and weather conditions often encouraging waves of up to 30 meters in height. And for the first time in over ten years, an all-female crew will be on point, with members from all over the world. The Volvo Ocean 65 is this season’s one-design boat class, measuring over twenty meters in length. The Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Ocean Racer is part of a long tradition of Portuguese watches, whose spirit dates to the nautical instruments used by seafarers to explore the world. Its stainless steel case measures in at 45.4mm and the automatic-winding IWC-manufactured caliber 89361 features a flyback function and aggregate timing of up to 12 hours. The watch, which is limited to just 1,000 pieces worldwide, is water resistant to 6 bar and has crown protection and luminescent hands and indexes to assist the potentially sodden sailor. The rim of the caseback is engraved, “IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Ocean Racer,” along with the watch’s number in the edition. Knut Frostad, CEO of the Volvo Ocean Race, is pleased to have IWC Schaffhausen on board as Official Timekeeper for the second time. He shared, “With its well-deserved reputation for precision and its innovative spirit, IWC is the ideal partner for us.” Adding to the festivities, IWC is presenting a prize to the team that covers the greatest distance in any one 24-hour period: each team member will receive a Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph Ocean Racer. Incidentally, the Portuguese family of watches is celebrating 75 years of existence this year, with new Portugieser models slated to roll out in 2015, including an Annual Calendar.

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MU IC RAYMOND WEIL S THE

THE GENEVA WATCHMAKER DEBUTS TRIBUTES TO FRANK SINATRA AND GIBSON GUITARS AND ADDS A DIAMOND-INDEXED TOCCATA FOR LADIES.

Raymond Weil’s limited edition Maestro timepiece honors Frank Sinatra as part of the Sinatra 100 centennial celebration. #RWSinatra100

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wiss watch brand Raymond Weil has been influenced and inspired by music for almost four decades. As far back as 1983 the then-young Geneva-based company debuted the Amadeus collection named, of course, after the famed Austrian classical composer and launched in conjunction with director Milos Forman’s worldacclaimed film of the same name. Raymond Weil has made music-inspired collection names a distinguishing feature of its identity ever since. Soon after Amadeus, Raymond Weil launched Fidelio, named after Beethoven’s only opera, followed by Parsifal, Othello, and more recently, Maestro and Toccata. These musical collections are just one aspect of Raymond Weil’s deep involvement with music, musicians and the global music industry. The company has partnered with iconic venues like the Royal Albert Hall and until recently the major American television live-music series “Live From the Artists Den.” Raymond Weil is also a primary sponsor of the VH1 Save The Music Foundation, the Prudential Center, and since 2008 the watchmaker has been the Official Watch and Timing Sponsor of the BRIT Awards, the United Kingdom’s premier pop music awards event. Indeed, one large-scale example of Raymond Weil’s deep identification with music of all stripes is the 27-foot-tall wooden cello that forms a wall for the brand’s always-busy booth at Baselworld, where annually all of the new Raymond Weil watches debut. Sinatra & The Heartbeat Tempo Behind that wooden cello at the most recent Baselworld, Raymond Weil announced its latest musical tribute: a special limited edition Maestro timepiece honoring Frank Sinatra. This collaboration is part of the Sinatra 100 centennial celebration. The one-hundredth anniversary of Sinatra’s birth, December 12, 1915, will be commemorated around the world during all of 2015 with new stage shows, prestigious exhibitions, music, video and book releases, special partnerships, and major television and film events along with a host of independent tributes and concerts. Raymond Weil’s timely contribution to this year of Ol’ Blu Eyes is a limited edition 39.5mm steel watch with the hands, index markers, and contour of the date window in a bright blue hue, all against the backdrop of a silver dial. A transparent caseback,

Frank Sinatra used what he had named “the heartbeat tempo” when preparing his music. Raymond Weil’s Maestro Frank Sinatra Limited Edition will be available starting this June.

The Raymond Weil Nabucco Inspired By Gibson limited edition chronograph honors the Gibson SG Standard guitar. #RWGibson

exposing the automatic movement inside, boasts a special Sinatra Centennial insignia. The twelve marker on the dial, which is highlighted as the only Roman numeral, signifies Sinatra’s December 12th birthday. Also in reference to his birthday, only 1,212 pieces of the Maestro Frank Sinatra Limited Edition will be available, starting June 2015. “It is a great honor to have partnered with the Frank Sinatra Enterprises to create a design that celebrates this special occasion,” says Elie Bernheim, Raymond Weil’s CEO. “Frank Sinatra was a charismatic character who left an indelible mark in the hearts and minds of many generations; he embodied an era, a style, and a tradition and was above all a passionate man of extraordinary talent. As a musicloving family company, it is perfectly fitting that we pay tribute to this undisputed maestro of music with a limited edition piece in our Maestro collection.” According to the Sinatra family, Frank Sinatra understood the vital importance of time. When preparing his music he employed what he had named “the heartbeat tempo.” For that reason, he insisted that his wristwatch have the utmost mechanical integrity and construction to guarantee many years of faithful and accurate service. “Master of horology Raymond Weil has steadfastly maintained this degree of excellence and in the centennial celebration of the birth of

Frank Sinatra I am proud to see my father’s name associated with this magnificent timepiece,” says Frank Sinatra, Jr. Masculine Tunes Cellos and vocal chords are not the only instruments Raymond Weil celebrates this year. The new Nabucco limited edition (200 pieces) chronograph inspired by Gibson Guitars iterates the Swiss brand’s admiration for the legendary six stringer SG Standard. Since its debut more than fifty years ago, this instrument has become among the most played, and most imitated electric guitars in the world. The new automatic chronograph features a black galvanic dial on which six grooves surround the central dial to symbolize the strings of the Gibson SG Standard. At the top of the dial the Gibson name and emblem proudly rise just above the Raymond Weil logo. The watch’s most masculine feature, in addition to its large 46mm titanium and polished steel case and polished steel pushers, is the sporty gray ceramic tachometer bezel that surrounds the six grooves on the dial. Bold red chronograph hands complement the black and silvered dial accents, while a third pusher at 10 o’clock allows the owner to set the date. The watch’s black rubber alligator-style strap features

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Raymond Weilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Toccata collection adds these ladiesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; models: two bracelet watches and a 300-piece limited edition (top left) dedicated to new brand ambassador, violinist Nicola Benedetti, featuring a chocolate-brown dial and set with ninety-one diamonds. #RWNickybenedetti

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RW CLUB & THE MUSIC BOX

Raymond Weil invites its timepiece owners to join the RW Club by registering at raymond-weil.com. Its members enjoy a free 3rd year extension of the standard international service guarantee for watches purchased as of May 2013. Other perks include dedicated service to answer customer requests in priority, a newsletter to stay in touch and exclusive contests to win various music related prizes. As part of its ongoing support of music, Raymond Weil offers its social media fans and RW Club members the opportunity to take part in unique contests throughout the year. Participants can enter to win tickets to highly awaited concerts around the globe, including performances taking place on World Music Day, June 21st.

black stitching and a titanium-and-polished-steel folding clasp with double-push security system. “We are proud to collaborate with such an iconic music brand as Gibson and to present a unique Nabucco limited edition of 200 pieces honoring both music and high-end watchmaking,” says Elie Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil. Henry Juszkiewicz, chairman and CEO of the Nashville-based Gibson Brands, echoes Bernheim’s sentiment. “Raymond Weil and Gibson Brands are the perfect combination of excellence and craftsmanship. We are delighted to be aligned with the Nabucco line, exceptional timepieces inspired by the highest quality guitars.” Music and Femininity Raymond Weil’s TOCCATA collection, reintroduced to acclaim last year, offers a new ladies 34 millimeter case size available in various combinations of stainless steel, rose-gold PVD and yellow-gold PVD. The quartz collection features a range of highlighted accents such as mother-of-pearl, diamonds and the femininity of a satin strap. These timeless and elegant ladies Toccata timepieces harmoniously blend a rounded case with a domed sapphire crystal - a hallmark of the collection. Toccata marks the entry of violinist Nicola Benedetti as one of Raymond Weil’s many musician friends. Benedetti is one of the most sought-after violinists of her generation and at twenty-seven years old has already won multiple awards over the course of her career, including the BBC Young Musician award and two Classic BRIT awards. In 2013, the Queen of England also appointed her the MBE for both her international music career and her work with musical charities. Fiercely committed to music education and to developing young talent, Benedetti has formed associations with education establishments including schools, music colleges and local organizations. To celebrate this partnership, Raymond Weil has created with Benedetti a special 300-unit limited edition Toccata. This chocolate-brown dial version of the new watch is set with ninety-one diamonds and will very likely entice its wearer to sing a happy song of her own.

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The haute horlogerie quality certification known as Fleurier Quality celebrates its tenth anniversary. BY Y-JEAN MUN-DELSALLE

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Chopard’s L.U.C Qualité Fleurier in rose gold

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“EACH COMPONENT IS EXAMINED UNDER A MICROSCOPE TO ASSESS ITS LEVEL OF CRAFTSMANSHIP.”

Fleurier Quality Foundation laboratory

decade ago, terms such as “haute horlogerie”, “luxury” or “prestige” watches were not strictly defined. With an aim to more clearly define the technical and performance standards of high-end timepieces, the Fleurier Quality Foundation set itself up ten years ago with the ambitious goal of uniting a series of those requirements. It was to be the first single certification that guaranteed that the watch featured reliable precision under all circumstances, tested robustness and durability, and high-quality finishing. Today, the Fleurier Quality Foundation and its three founding brands – Bovet, Chopard and Parmigiani Fleurier – now joined by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, has just celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Fleurier Quality Certification. In addition, since fall 2014, the Fleurier Quality Foundation has placed its revolutionary Fleuritest machine at the disposal of any Swiss watch brand, even if it is not part of the Foundation, but that wishes nonetheless to benefit from its analytical expertise. The FQF’s new service, known as FQFLab, aims to allow third-party brands to benefit from a state-of-the-art infrastructure and offer them the opportunity to evaluate their production without receiving the Fleurier Quality Certification, which consists of four additional tests. The machine itself is a unique simulator developed especially for the Fleurier Quality Foundation. It takes the shape of a massive propeller that makes watches in the test phase undergo three-dimensional movements identical to situations of everyday life, mimicking putting on a sweater, jogging, searching for an item in a bag, or even sleeping. The computer controlled Fleuritest assesses the chronometry of a timepiece during a single 24-hour period. And it is one of the few tests in the world that concerns the finished product: an encased watch ready for sale. FQFLab therefore offers manufacturers the unique opportunity to evaluate their work and to provide data so the company can continuously optimize its own manufacturing process. The Certification’s Origins The Fleurier Quality Certification was the brainchild of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Michel Parmigiani in the early 2000s. The two presidents of Chopard Manufacture and Parmigiani Fleurier, respectively, had the idea of creating a high-end, reproducible watch certification. They asked: What is watchmaking quality? What does the end customer expect from it? What are the implications of quality research faced with the require-

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Bovet is a Fleurier Quality Foundation founding brand

ments of series production? How do you certify this quality in a credible manner for the client? This examination led the two men to draw up the outline for what they consider “the most demanding certification process that exists to date.” The Fleurier Quality Foundation was thus established in 2001 and the Fleurier Quality Certification officially launched on September 27, 2004. The Fleurier Quality Certification is open to all Swiss mechanical fine watchmaking brands – not only the watchmakers located in Fleurier, a small town in the Swiss Jura. Oriented toward the end customer, the requirements guaranteed by the certification cover precision under all circumstances, reliability, durability and, finally, an irreproachable quality of esthetic finishing. Today the Fleurier Quality Foundation is chaired by Jean-Patrice Hofner, who is independent of the founding and participating brands.

Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa Grande QF

Fleurier Quality Foundation headquarters in Fleurier, Switzerland. Now ten years old, the Foundation was founded by Chopard, Bovet and Parmigiani Fleurier. Recently, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier joined the organization. Now the Fleurier Quality Foundation has launched a new service known as FQFLab, which allows any Swiss watch brand not part of the Foundation to benefit from the Fleuritest machine to evaluate its production, without receiving the Fleurier Quality Certification.

THE FIVE CERTIFICATION CRITERIA Manufactured 100% in Switzerland The materials can come from all over the world, but all operations of conception, production, assembly and testing of the non cased-up watch and its components must be performed in Switzerland. This criterion was added to the certification process in 2012 and differs widely from “Swiss Made” – a condition currently met as long as sixty percent of the watch head has been manufactured in Switzerland. Along with the Fleurier Quality Foundation seal, timepieces having earned the label will be able to carry the inscription “100% manufactured in Switzerland. Exclusive quality aesthetic finishing Only metal, traditional ceramics, precious or avant-garde materials may be used. These materials must be the subject of a work of decoration through either mechanical or manual means that reflects important savoirfaire and represents esthetic added value. Each component is examined under a microscope to assess its level of craftsmanship and to guarantee a search for absolute excellence without affecting its technical reliability. COSC-certified movement – Swiss chronometry test All movements must be certified by The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) – or Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute responsible for certifying the accuracy and precision of wristwatches in accordance with the ISO-NIHS norm. Chronofiable durability test Chronofiable tests, conducted in an independent laboratory, attest to the resistance of the movement to shocks, wear, water and magnetism – to name but a few. Each piece undergoes an ageing cycle that corresponds to six months of wear. This includes testing to measure pull-and-push

forces on the watch stem, testing cycles to measure the forces exerted on the pushers and turning bezel, tests on reactions to magnetic fields, shock-resistance tests using a heavy pendulum or striker and a waterresistance test. Fleuritest The fifth and last stage of the Fleurier Quality Certification is probably the most impressive and certainly the most exclusive. Developed especially for the Fleurier Quality Foundation, the Fleuritest machine is a fully computerized simulator through which the watch in its final form must undergo a test. A 24-hour operating test is conducted on the simulator, which recreates the movements of a nycthemeral cycle, alternating between active or extremely active phases and calmer ones to most closely match a 24-hour cycle on the wrist. The timepiece’s chronometry is measured with absolute precision by the Fleuritest machine and the only variation in rate tolerated falls within 0 and +5 seconds per day, making it one of the most demanding devices that exists. At the end of the test, a certificate is issued for each watch that has passed, specifying the number on the movement and the case. The timepiece is then entitled to the Fleurier Quality Certification. The resulting Fleurier Quality Certification is neutral, as all tests operate under the supervision of a technical committee that is independent from the participating brands. In addition, Certification takes into account all aspects of reliability and resistance that impact the life of a timepiece and combines them with artistic requirements and Swiss provenance. And finally, the certification requires brands to develop manufacturing processes that are reproducible. It requires a constant balancing act between the technician and the watchmaker, a dialogue that brings about richness and aims for continuous progress.

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WATCH GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

TITANIUM WATCHES BY RACHEL GOLD

The days of strictly dull matte gray finishing are long past as titanium, a strong yet light metal, today is polished, brushed and even blasted to provide sturdy and attractive housing for sporty and dressy watches. Need proof? Take a look at this round-up of timepieces cased in titanium. 115

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CITIZEN TI+IP

Designed in solid titanium, this 44mm chronograph features a metallic blue dial with black chronograph subdials. The light-powered Eco-Drive movement offers functions that include: 1/5-second chronograph and 12/24 hour time. The watch is presented on a silver-toned titanium bracelet.

BULOVA

AEROWATCH

HOMAGE 1910

This 44mm limited edition of 100 timepieces is a flyback chronograph made in titanium. Vintage 1910 pocket watches inspire the classic case and the decorated self-winding movement is visible through a transparent caseback. The watch is presented on a black leather pilotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strap.

This 43mm timepiece features a round black-tone titanium case. Its dial is brushed black with red applied indexes, numerals, black-tone hands, date window and Manchester United logo. A Swiss automatic movement powers the piece. The watch was inspired by the partnership between the football club and Bulova.

CASIO

G-SHOCK (MRGG1000B-1A)

This timepiece, featuring a titanium case and bracelet, features water resistance of 200m, latitude indicator, Tough Solar, airplane mode, world time, full auto LED, full auto calendar and a daily alarm, in addition to a stopwatch, countdown timer, date and day display. The case measures 49.8mm.

ACCUSWISS TREBLE COLLECTION

CECIL PURNELL

CA CHAPTER I PIT LANE

This watch is a 10-piece limited edition created in partnership with Carlo Ancelotti, the Real Madrid FC team coach. Additionally this watch has been designed in collaboration with his favorite foundation, Pit Lane. The piece was forged in titanium and at the focal point is a soccer ball above the bridge and tourbillon.

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TITANIUM WATCHES

CHOPARD

GRAND PRIX DE MONACO HISTORIQUE CHRONO

A self-winding chronograph movement featuring a snailed silver-tone dial and titanium case powers this 44.5mm timepiece from the Classic Racing collection. Functions include: hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, date at 3 o’clock and 30-minute and 12-hour counters.

CHRISTOPHE CLARET

An automatic movement powers this 20-piece limited edition. Functions include: hour and minute display and patented cathedral gong, in addition to two games – Texas Hold ‘em Poker with chime and roulette wheel.

CORUM

ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 SQUELETTE

With a 45mm titanium case, this skeleton nautical-themed model is powered by an automatic movement with hours, minutes, seconds, and date functions. The watch is presented on a black crocodile leather strap.

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POKER WATCH

DE BETHUNE

DB28

A mechanical hand-wound movement, caliber DB 2115, powers this timepiece with functions that include: hours, minutes, a spherical moon-phase indicator at 6 o’clock, power reserve indication and performance indicator. The case measures 42.6mm in diameter and is made from grade 5 titanium. The mobile or floating type attachment and the dial are also made of titanium.

DOXA

MISSION 31 SUB

Worn by Fabien Cousteau during his 31-day underwater mission, this timepiece is part of a 331-piece limited edition commemorating the event. The mechanical watch is water resistant to 1,000 meters and features a titanium case that measures 44mm in diameter. The dial is Doxa orange.

F.P. JOURNE

This 42mm titanium timepiece is offered in a dark gray with a matte finish. The lightweight piece offers a dial and movement made of an aluminum alloy. The movement is unidirectional automatic winding and features hours, minutes, small seconds, day/night, power reserve, and large date indications.

FRANCK MULLER

VANGUARD

Sporting an automatic movement, this titanium piece features a Curvex case in addition to large numerals and a robust crown. The display features hours, minutes, seconds and date.

OCTA SPORT

GREUBEL FORSEY

GMT BLACK

This new titanium timepiece has been treated with vacuum deposited ADLC, hardening the natural titanium surface significantly. The globe is also titanium; the movementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main plate and bridges are finished in black. This unique edition will be composed of twenty-two timepieces.

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TITANIUM WATCHES

HABRING2

TIME DATE PILOT

Featuring a matte-black dial and easy-to-read large date, this timepiece is offered with a steel or a titanium case. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also offered with a choice of an automatic or manual-wind movement and is presented on a leather strap.

HAMILTON

This 42mm titanium timepiece offers a black PVD brushed coating. An ETA 2824-2 automatic movement powers the piece. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and is presented on a black leather strap or titanium bracelet.

JAQUET DROZ

GRANDE SECONDE SW TITANIUM

The Jaquet Droz 2663A self-winding mechanical movement powers this 45mm titanium timepiece. Indications include off-centered hours and minutes, as well as a large seconds subdial. The dial features carbon fiber with raspberry red details.The watch is presented on a natural black rubber strap.

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KHAKI FIELD TITANIUM

LUMINOX

SXC-XCOR SPACE EXPEDITIONS PROFESSIONAL TITANIUM

This 45.50mm titanium timepiece features enhanced night visibility powered by Luminox Light technology with the addition of SuperLuminova. The piece was designed in partnership with SXC | XCOR Space Expeditions to be worn by the astronauts and passengers of the space project.

MIDO

OCEAN STAR CAPTAIN TITANIUM

Featuring an automatic ETA movement, this 42.5mm titanium model adds a rose-gold PVD treatment on the bezel. The bracelet is also titanium and the dial is anthracite with black skeleton hour and minute hands and a rose-gold-PVD treated seconds hand.

OMEGA

This new edition is offered in steel or with an all-polished grade 5 titanium case and bracelet. The model measures 41mm in diameter and is water resistant to 300 meters. A fully anti-magnetic self-winding Co-Axial Chronometer Omega Caliber 8400 is inside.

ORIS

PRODIVER CHRONOGRAPH

This 51mm titanium case houses an automatic chronograph, and features a black dial and a titanium bracelet. The watch is delivered in a waterproof presentation box, and included within the set is an additional rubber strap and professional strap changing tools. This watch also boasts the Rotation Safety System to keep divers safe, in addition to an automatic helium valve and visible counter displays.

SEAMASTER 300 OMEGA MASTER CO-AXIAL 41MM

PIAGET

POLO FORTYFIVE

This timepiece features a 45mm ADLC-treated titanium case. The dial highlights luminescent hour markers and the caseback is made of sapphire crystal. A manufacture Piaget 880P PVD ultra-thin automatic mechanical chronograph movement powers this piece with functions that include: small seconds, chronograph flyback function, and date and dual time zone.

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TITANIUM WATCHES

PORSCHE DESIGN

CHRONOGRAPH TITANIUM LIMITED EDITION

This 42mm timepiece is forged in glass-blasted titanium with a matteblack galvanic dial and is presented on a black calfskin strap. An automatic chronograph ETA 7750 movement powers the watch and features a 45-hour power reserve, hour, minute and second display and stopwatch function, as well as date display.

REACTOR

This timepiece is a limited edition of 500 and has been depth tested to 1,000 meters. The case and bracelet are both made of solid titanium. A mechanical automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, which may be seen through the exhibition caseback, powers the piece. The watch also highlights a patented Never Dark dial technology and has dual timing bezels.

SEIKO

ASTRON LIMITED EDITION

This timepiece features a titanium case and bracelet with hard coating. GPS satellites control the watch for time and time zone adjustment, with world time function in forty time zones. The watch also features a chronograph, a perpetual calendar and a strong magnetic resistance.

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POSEIDON TITANIUM LE

TAG HEUER

CARRERA CALIBRE 36 AUTOMATIC FLYBACK

This flyback chronograph timepiece is forged in sandblasted grade 2 titanium coated with a black titanium case and bezel, and a smoked sapphire caseback. The dial is anthracite with a sunray effect. The watch is presented on a leather strap.

TISSOT

TITANIUM AUTOMATIC

This titanium and rose gold-PVD timepiece is lightweight and hypoallergenic. The ETA Powermatic 80 movement powers this piece, which offers an incredible eighty hours of power reserve.

TUDOR

This 42mm automatic (ETA-based caliber) timepiece features a titanium case with a titanium bracelet with folding clasp, safety catch and bracelet extension system and additional rubber strap. The dive model is water resistant to 500 meters and features a helium escape valve.

ULYSSE NARDIN

MARINE DIVER TITANIUM

A self-winding ETA-based movement with functions that include small seconds, hours, minutes, and a power reserve indicator powers this 45mm titanium timepiece. The dial is silver with blue highlights and the bezel is orange and black.

PELAGOS

VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY

DIVEMASTER 500

This 43mm timepiece with an ETA-based caliber is made in grade 2 titanium and sandblasted in matte gray. The transparent caseback is featured in scratch resistant sapphire crystal with a triple anti-reflective coating. The dial is also gray and made in titanium with a luminescent 20-minute scale, counter contours, and hour and minute hands. The chronograph seconds hand is red.

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INDEPENDENT ATELIER INDEPENDENT ATELIER

The limited editon MCT Sequential Two S200 debuts this year.

MCT

MANUFACTURE CONTEMPORAINE DU TEMPS

BY ELIZABETH DOERR

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Sequential Two S200 , in red gold, debuted in 2014.

François Candolfi, CEO of MCT

he sight of MCT’s Sequential timepiece at work, with its fascinating prisms, will remain imbedded in the memory of any watch aficionado. The hour numeral changing every sixty minutes, resembling the flipping boards of an old-style airport flight display, is truly a sight to behold. MCT—which stands for Manufacture Contemporaine du Temps— forged a path into the high-end watch world with the Sequential One, which the company debuted at Baselworld 2008. That watch was followed by the Sequential Two S200 in 2014, a timepiece that boasted the same sort of mesmerizing numerals, but housed in a round case rather than a shaped case. While the case may be the only change visible from the outside, on the inside MCT changed quite a bit, which explains the sizable gap of almost five years between the two models. MCT had meanwhile quite miraculously (thanks to new owners) acquired in-house capabilities for movement conception, design, production and assembly. That technical expertise was essential to the development of the Sequential Two S200, which MCT launched at Baselworld 2014. Powered by an automatic movement wound by an 18-karat gold micro rotor and housed in a stunning, architectural 44.6mm white or red gold case, the prism display remained the focal point. A sapphire crystal insert in the case band provides an interesting and unusual look—as well as a better view of the mechanics. At Baselworld 2015, MCT presented a new limited edition of the Sequential Two S200: only three pieces of each of three vivid new color combinations. The background for the bright colors visible on the prism numerals and strap stitching is provided by an exclusive, discreet white gold case that is coated by deep black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon).

MCT revealed its Frequential at Baselworld 2015.

The limited edition color combinations now available are blue/black, green/black, and orange/black. Frequential However, the big news at Baselworld was the advent of the new Frequential line, whose case shape harks back to the original Sequential One. Though that’s where any real similarities end. The focal point of this watch, which combines design and technology in an extremely technical way, is the exposed, central balance wheel. Note that it is a traditional balance wheel with tiny regulating screws that seems to float above the plate serving as a dial. Its position and seemingly seamless integration into its surroundings is proof positive that it was conceived and designed within the company. When the observer gets past gawking at the stylish balance wheel placed square in the center, he or she may next notice the absence of the prism displays. These are indeed replaced by more traditional hour and minute hands that peek out from behind the dial cutaway that places the balance squarely in the center of the action. While it looks easy, positioning a suspended balance wheel centralized in the movement is decidedly not the easiest technical task. Manually wound Caliber MCT-F1.0 with twin spring barrels for a power reserve of three days (shown in the power reserve indicator across the top of the dial) beats at a relatively vintage frequency of 18,000 bph (2.5 Hz). The visually harmonious yet technical-looking case measuring 42mm x 42mm x 14mm is crafted in titanium and coated with black DLC. The caseback features a sapphire crystal for full movement viewing pleasure. It might even make you forget that there are no prisms on the front of this particular model. It’s for those who like it a bit simpler.

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PASSIONS PASSIONS

WORK & LEISURE

IN HOT WATER

| BY NANCY OLSON

Thermal baths bathe away stress and soothe the soul

he revival in interest in thermal spas as luxury destinations is a global phenomenon that shows no indication of waning. Perhaps driven by the current and warranted attitude that good health and good looks go hand in hand, many flock to the baths as a pampering and effective option on the road to wellness. The typically mineral-rich water, several degrees above body temperature, is absorbed through the skin and is said to assist in oxygen and nutrient delivery to cells while removing toxins from the body. And, of course, there’s nothing quite like the serene relaxation induced by a good warm soak. Rest and Relaxation Natural hot springs have been appreciated for their restorative powers since ancient times, and many believe their use dates to the Bronze Age in Asia and as far back as 10,000 years ago in the Americas. They are found virtually everywhere on the globe and each offers much to explore for the adventurous traveler. Some are minimalist (and public), with little or no frills. Others are extravagant experiences that supply a multitude of options in addition to the waters—such as massages, mineral mud treatments and quasi-spiritual offerings like meditation baths and aromatherapy. In Europe, Switzerland, France, Austria, Germany and Iceland all are home to excellent widely acclaimed thermal spas, ranging from the ascetic to the fantastic. Hungary, known globally for its hot springs, is ranked high as a spa-lover’s destination. In fact, Budapest, called the “City of Baths,” is one of the few places one can still experience traditional Turkish baths dating to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The city sits atop more than 100 springs, thanks to the unique geology of the region.

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Ancient city walls at the QC Termemilano offer privacy and ambience.

Sauna at Stanza Del Sale, Italy.

In Italy My favorites among European spas, however, are those found in Italy, in part because I’ve spent many a restful hour there. More importantly, I find the topography of the region to be as regenerative as the waters themselves. From Alpine landscapes to jagged coastlines, this scenic diversity accentuates the natural wonder that, in my opinion, is the

Lighted pools are available for evening enjoyment at QC Termetorino.

Arial view of QC Terme Pré Saint Didier Spa and Resort.

very definition of a thermal spa. So, too, hot springs have a long and storied past throughout Italy. The Romans had a longstanding belief in the therapeutic properties of water, and their motto, “Salus per aquam,” meaning “health through water,” forms the acronym we use today: SPA. QC Terme runs five luxury thermal spas throughout Italy, with locations in Pré Saint Didier, Milan, Turin and Bormio, and more are planned for the not-too-distant future. My most recent visit to Italy included a stop at Bagni Vecchi—loosely translated as “old bath”—in Bormio, in the Lombardy region of the Alps. With its ancient thermal baths and incredible scenery, Bormio has been favored throughout the centuries by the Roman aristocracy searching for a little down time en route from Venice to Switzerland. Today, it is a sought-after destination for wellness seekers—and skiiers—throughout Europe. The Bagni Vecchi spa, adjacent to the Hotel Bagni Vecchi, is subdivided into six sections, comprising an incredible 30 different thermal facilities and services that visitors may enjoy at their leisure. Ranging from sulphur-rich springs in caves that were in use in pre-Roman times to natural saunas that date to the mid-1800s, with everything from thermal waterfalls to hydro-massage in between, there is much to enjoy here, not the least of which is the panoramic view. An open-air pool, which ranges in temperature from 38 to 40 degrees Celsius, overlooks an Alpine valley on one side and the Western Dolomite Mountains on the other. The pool was constructed on the site of the Bagni’s former hot houses and close to the still-standing San Martino Church constructed in the twelfth century.It took a few days to dip my toes into each of the many pools, with superb massages at the hands of the attentive staff in between. The restaurant and café—with an extensive wine list—served delectable post-spa meals and light snacks, and a well-appointed hotel room was a comfortable haven at the end of the day. When my all-too-brief stay drew to a close, I left with a visceral understanding of why thermal baths have beckoned man for centuries. And I also understood I’d be back.

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PASSIONS PASSIONS

WORK & LEISURE

WHEELS UP

Wheels Up offer its members access to a private fleet of Citation Excel/XLS aircraft, the most popular business jet in the world. It offers a luxurious stand-up cabin, upgraded in-flight entertainment technology and flight range up to four hours.

A NEW PRIVATE FLIGHT SERVICE OFFERS CHOICES, BENEFITS AND EVEN RIDE SHARING AT PRICES THAT AIM TO MAKE PRIVATE AIR TRAVEL MORE AFFORDABLE.

he world of business aviation, private jet ownership and private travel is just a few decades old. It was during the 1980s and 1990s that private jet companies emerged, most catering to corporations that wanted their executives to fly privately. At that point in time, the only way to fly privately was to have your own plane or to charter your own plane. Then along came the concept of fractional private air travel, wherein corporations or individuals buy into (for pretty hefty sums of half-a-million dollars or more) a specific type of jet, which they then share with other co-owners. Later the concept of the Jet Card sprung up. This was similar in nature to fractional private flight, but at a lower opening rate of about $170,000. This concept helped lower the barrier to enter the private flight realm. Now, New York-based Wheels Up vows to again change the concept of private air travel by making it even more accessible to corporations and to individual flyers. The Wheels Up idea is based on a membership model, much like joining a country club or any private club, which then offers use of its facilities. “This concept opens the door for those who want to fly privately but could not afford the steep buy-ins of other methods,” explains Mark Sage, chief brand officer for Wheels Up. As with a country club, Wheels Up members pay a $17,500 membership fee in the first year and then pay hourly for any flights taken. In each subsequent year after the initial membership, there are annual fees of about $8,500. According to Sage, many executives see the intrinsic value in their program. Essentially it allows a broader range of private companies

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“People want to improve their productivity, their lifestyles and their travel experience.”

the option to offer their executives the ability to fly privately, conducting business all the while. The concept also enables that same businessman to get on a plane, fly to multiple cities for meetings in one day and return home that night—all at historically attractive rates. What are the rates? Wheels Up has two types of planes – one for short hauls and one for longer hauls, so the rates depend on the plane the member chooses to fly. The shorter-distance planes – for flights under three hours in duration – are best served using the King Air Excel, with an hourly rate of $3,950. (Wheels Up also has an exclusive on King Air 350i planes.) For longer trips like a coast-to-coast trip, the Citation XLS is best, with its $6,900 hourly cost. For global travel, Wheels Up has an agreement with a partner to secure the right long-haul plane. “Through all of our resarch, we have learnd that the average flight of private air travel is 1.8 hours,” says Justin Walker, the company’s co-chief brand officer. “With our membership system, travelers can pick the plane they need. They are not locked into any one type of plane.” More benefits There are other ways in which Wheels Up provides customers with benefits that differ from other fractional providers. There are no fuel subcharges, there is guaranteed lift, and there is no repositioning fee,

which means customers don’t pay for the company to move a plane from its current location to the customer’s location to start the journey. Members pay only for their own flying hours. While corporations and entrepreneurs enjoy the benefits of private air travel with Wheels Up, so do individuals and families, says Sage. “We have a lot of people who work hard, and when they get a vacation they look at the lifestyle side of it. They want that vacation to start when they get on the plane,” he adds. “Additionally, people want to improve their productivity, their lifestyles and their travel experience. We are here to make their lives easier.” Wheels Up is a business club, but it also strives to serve the lifestyles of its members. As a result, it has formed Wheels Down, a division of Wheels Up that offers members access to exclusive parties and cocktails built around events such as the Super Bowl, Art Basel and others. Also coming soon for Wheels Up members is a ride share program, wherein members can post to other members for shared rides (and costs) if, for instance, they are only using four seats on a plane and other seats are open. Currently Wheels Up has about 1,200 members with a target goal of 2,000 members by year-end. “We can never have too many members,” says Walker. “The concept works on an algorithm that tells us how many planes we need. We partner with Textron to add planes if we need them. Our goal is to properly service all customers.”

Wheels Up’s luxurious Beechcraft King Air 350i is the most comfortable solution for short-haul flights.

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MARKET MARKET

DEBUTS UPDATES

DeBethune DB25T Zodiac Innovation is at the very heart of the construction of the DB25T Zodiac, reflecting De Bethuneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s proud horological tradition. The case is crafted in 44mm white gold, and inside is the hand-wound DB2109 movement with hours, minutes, central jumping seconds; tourbillon with 30-second indication is on the back. The silver-toned guilloche dial features the De Bethune star-studded sky in blued mirror-polished titanium inlaid with solid white gold stars; the solid gold inserts, representing the twelve Zodiac signs, are hand engraved by artist MichĂ¨le Rothen. A navy blue alligator leather strap with a pin buckle affixes the watch to the wrist.

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Concord Mariner Lady A baselworld preview offers a sophisticated model for ladies. Case: 30mm stainless steel case set with diamonds; stainless steel caseback with windrose engraving. Movement: Quartz ETA with hours, minutes, seconds and date. Dial: White mother-of-pearl set with 12 diamonds. Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. with stainless steel deployant clasp, set with 200 diamonds. Why Buy? An exquisite addition to the newest Mariner collection, first introduced in 2014.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition à Répétition Minutes A new, slimmer minute repeater with square-section crystal gongs and trebuchet hammers. Its regulator is silent. Case: 39mm satin-brushed pink gold and polished lugs. Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 942, with 22-karat gold rotor. The push button features a security system. Dial: Silver-toned and finely grained with polished applied hour-markers, Strap: Blue alligator with pink gold pin buckle. Why Buy? It’s a beautiful chiming ode to nineteenth century pocket watch repeaters

Charriol Automatic Chrono Gran Celtica SuperSportS A pre-basel debutwithin a motorsports-inspired collection. Case: 46mm stainless steel, black PVD. Movement: Automatic chronograph ETA Valjoux 7750. Dial: Motorsports inspired. Strap: Stainless steel bracelet. Why Buy? This new limited edition brings the thrill of the race to every day.

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MARKET MARKET

F. P. Journe Nouvelle Octa Lune A classic watch gets a case material update. Case: 40mm or 42mm, platinum or red gold. Movement: Automatic exclusive F.P. Journe 1300.3 in 18-karat rose gold; rotor in 22-karat gold, off-center and guilloche. Dial: Both dials are 18-karat gold; off-center hours, minutes and small seconds; large date in aperture; power reserve at 9 o’clock, phases of the moon at 8 o’clock. Strap: Leather. Why Buy? Features greater readability of the dial, both time and date.

Frédérique Constant Manufacture Zodiac 24H Features the twelve zodiac signs as the main index markers on its dial. Case: 40.5mm polished stainless steel or polished rose gold plate. Movement: Manufacture FC-724 automatic caliber; perlage and circular Côtes de Genève decoration; 42-hour power reserve. Dial: Silver dial with the twelve Chinese Zodiac signs as index markers. Strap: Brown alligator leather. Why Buy? Limited edition of 888 pieces.

Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 This 2015 Pre-Basel Release pays tribute to the “souscription” and “tact” watches made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century. Case: 40mm white or pink gold with fluted caseband and sapphire caseback. Movement: Automatic Caliber 505SR1; inverted straight-line lever escapement with silicon horns, silicon Breguet overcoil balance-spring; 50-hour power reserve. Dial: Hand-guilloché silvered 18-karat gold offset dial at 12 o’clock; Breguet “open-tipped” blued steel hand; retrograde small seconds at 10 o’clock. Strap: Leather. Why Buy? Its mechanism reveals the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and various other parts that are normally placed beneath the plate.

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Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar New dial colors and case metal combinations spice up this Pre-Basel collection. Case: 40mm red gold (also available in steel). Movement: In-house Calibre 90-02 automatic movement, three-quarter plate with Glashütte stripe finish, off-center rotor with 21-karat gold oscillating weight, blued screws, hand-engraved balance cock, duplex swan-neck fine adjustment Dial: Matte black, made in Glashütte Original’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim. Also made with a blue dial (for steel case model). Strap: Matt black Louisiana Alligator leather strap or a Louisiana Alligator nubuck leather strap Why Buy? Beautiful addition to any moon phase collection.

JeanRichard Terrascope This cushion-shaped model is now offered in two (pre-Basel) 39mm models. Case: 39mm steel, polished and vertical brushed finishes, with or without diamonds. Movement: Swiss automatic with black oscillating weight and JR logo Dial: Textured blue or matte white, suspended blue hour-markers with luminescent dot, blued steel hands with luminescent coating. Strap: Blue ostrich with folding clasp or steel with butterfly clasp. Why Buy? There’s always room for non-round cases in any collection.

GRAHAM Silverstone RS Endurance LA Kings Graham pays tribute to the talent that led the Los Angeles Kings to become the 2014 Stanley Cup Champions for the second time in three years. This collectible Silverstone RS Endurance LA Kings contains a slice of the game puck used in Game 5 of the Stanley Cup Final that took place in June of 2014. Twenty-four watches were given to the players and one piece is preserved in the GRAHAM private collection. Only twenty-five additional pieces have been made available to the public, each with two white diamonds set in the side of the case symbolizing the victories.

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Tiffany & Co. CT 60 Chronograph Case: 34mm, 40mm (pictured) or 42mm stainless steel or rose gold. Movement: La Joux-Perret, Dubois-Depraz and Sellita mechanical calibers and modules. The CT60 reflects the cadence of modern life from the streets of New York to every point on the globe. This collection of timepieces is summed up in the famous phrase, the “New York Minute”: 60 seconds of pure possibility. A rose gold calendar watch with a 42-hour power reserve, shock-absorption system and sapphire crystal display back is created in a limited edition of sixty, each numbered on the caseback. Other timepieces in the collection include a three-hand timepiece in rose gold with gold numerals and a diamond bezel. Steel or rose gold chronograph versions are available as well.

HYT H1 CIGAR This is the first customized watch from HYT and a demonstration of the virtually limitless possibilities for developing unique cases. For more than two years, HYT and its partners have been working together to create a case material able to incorporate new elements at the discretion of the watch owner. Owners may incorporate solid elements from their own personal “world” in their HYT watchcase. Are you a cigar lover? Then the H1’s case may be adorned with cigar leaves from your personal collection. Want sand from the beaches of your island? HYT has successfully incorporated sand from the famed Anse du Gouverneur beach on Saint Barthélémy.

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Worldtimer Case: 45.4mm in stainless steel or red gold (pictured) Movement: IWC Caliber 35750 The new Portugieser Yacht Club Worldtimer, with its 24-hour ring, offers easy legibility of thirteen time zones, including the current Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). The twelve location names on the external ring each represent a time zone. When passing through a zone, the hour hand may be adjusted forwards or backwards in one-hour increments—also when crossing the International Date Line. Just 100 pieces will be produced in red gold and 500 in stainless steel, each measuring 45.4mm. The red gold model has a silver-plated dial and features a black rubber strap with alligator leather inlay and a folding clasp in 18-karat gold.

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Angelus U10 Tourbillon Lumière Case: 62.75mm by 38mm “wide-screen” steel case Movement: A100 with hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds and a oneminute flying tourbillon The limited edition (25 pieces) U10 Tourbillon Lumière from the recently revived Angelus brand is a modernist ode to industrial designs of the 1960s and 1970s. This new steel-cased watch features hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds and a one-minute flying tourbillon, plus a ninetyhour linear power reserve indicator on the side of the case. While the tourbillon, visible on the right side of the 62.75mm by 38mm wide-screen case, recalls the long history of Angelus watchmaking, the time display on the left side of the case and the seven sapphire crystals are purely contemporary.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Limited edition A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Limited edition celebrates the 200th anniversary of the birth of founder F. A. Lange. Lange manufacture caliber L051.1: Manually wound, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; 55 hours of power reserve. Time indicated in hours, minutes and subsidiary seconds with stop seconds. Shock-resistant screw balance; Nivarox balance spring, frequency 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, precision beat-adjustment system with lateral-set screw and whiplash spring. 40mm platinum case.

Girard-Perregaux 1966 This new reinterpretation of Girard-Perregaux’s 1966 watch, has a pink gold case and an exclusive guilloché dial. The men’s version is 38mm, while the ladies’ version is 30mm and features 60 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Each watch houses a self-winding G-P movement.

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SEEN + SPOTTED SEEN + SPOTTED

HOROLOGICAL HAPPENINGS 5

iW Magazine’s team continues its global adventures, connecting with retailers, brand partners, celebrated watchmakers and industry icons. Where do your watch adventures take you? Bring iW with you! LIKE & SHARE International Watch - Iw Middle East Magazine FOLLOW & TAG @watchoogle LIKE & SHARE Watchoogle FOLLOW & TAG @watchoogle SUBSCRIBE TO OUR CHANNEL Watchoogle VISIT www.watchoogle.com

3 1. Vasken Chokarian, iW Middle East’s Editor in Chief with Ludovic Ballouard, co-Founder Montres Ludovic Ballouard 2. Nick English, co-Founder of Bremont, and iW Contributor Elizabeth Doerr celebrate Bremont’s Watch Madness victory! 3. Vasken Chokarian with the talented watchmaker Emmanuel Bouchet

4. Working away on the opening day of Baselworld 2015: Ricardo Guadeloupe, Danny Govberg and JeanClaude Biver. 5. Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe’s President and Katia Sessa, Managing Editor of iW Middle East 6. Aldo Magada, CEO of Zenith Watches, enjoying a copy of iW. 7. Vasken Chokarian with Vincent Calabrese, co-Founder AHCI

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8. Vasken Chokarian with F.P. Journe at the AHCI organized Young Talent Competition 2015 event

9. Gregory Thumm, President of Bulova, introduces Baselworld novelties and celebrates the 140th anniversary of the brand.

10. Katia Sessa with Arnold Scharzengger, at the “by-invitation only” dinner of his first timepieces collections’ launch in Basel 11. Jeff Hess and Philippe Antille of Ball Watch with two rockstars, Teddy ‘Zig Zag’ Andreadis from Guns N’ Roses and Eric Singer from KISS.

12. iW Contributor Angus Davies (center) enjoying Baselworld with Armin Strom’s Sebastien Marten and Claude Greisler. 13. Vasken Chokarian at Baselworld’s Zenith event with Aldo Magada, CEO of Zenith, and Ricardo Guadeloupe, Hublot CEO 14 Vasken Chokarian and Felix Baumgartner, Zenith Ambassador 15. Vasken Chokarian with Marc Jenni, AHCI Member

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Hublot ambassadors Dwyane Wade and Bar Refaeli pose at the new Hublot Boutique in New York.

Patek Philippe will spend about $480 million to enlarge its Plan-les-Ouates facility, pictured here.

Patek Philippe enlarges manufacture Patek Philippe is enlarging its manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates to pursue new activities and enhance the transfer of know-how, investing more than 450 million Swiss francs (about $480 million)in the process. Philippe and Thierry Stern shared that they are delighted this project will allow the brand to further expand and sustainably safeguard the continuity of its business activities, while at the same time express the strong alliance between Patek Philippe and Geneva. The enlargement of the Plan-les-Ouates campus is motivated by the objective of developing new business activities and creating ideal prerequisites for the multifaceted requirements imposed on Patek Philippe’s in-house basic and advanced training programs.

Hublot raises the bar Hublot unveiled its latest brand ambassador, internationally renowned model Bar Refaeli. She joins the ranks of celebrity brand ambassadors, including Kobe Bryant, Shawn “Jay Z” Carter, Dwyane Wade, Pelé, Usain Bolt and more, to star as the face of Hublot’s ladies’ watch campaign. Refaeli is known throughout the world as one of the today’s top models. She debuted in the 2007 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue, and in 2009, Bar was featured as the cover model of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue. She has also graced the covers of such magazines as ELLE, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar, GQ and Glamour, and led campaigns for such brands as Chanel, Moet & Chandon, Escada and more.

Ian Poulter visits Audemars Piguet

Chopard reveals the spirit of its iconic collection, Happy Diamonds

Professional golfer Ian Poulter took a trip off course to Le Brassus, Switzerland, earlier this year to immerse himself in the watchmaking ambiance of Audemars Piguet. There, he discovered a wealth of worldfirst and complicated timepieces while touring the private museum and restoration workshop, and he also successfully assembled a watch movement. Poulter is part of Audemars Piguet’s Dream Team of Golf Ambassadors, and he shares the brand’s grounding philosophy: “To break the rules you must first master them.” He was wearing his Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a 44mm forged carbon case.

Chopard asked a trio of established talents to create a film featuring the Happy Diamonds youthful woman to embody this spontaneous mood. Justin Wu, a young and talented fashion photographer and film director was an evident choice to inject energy and modernism into the film. This film portrays two women playfully dancing. As their steps are guided by a lively DJ, they enjoy the vibe of the music. Their radiant Happy Diamonds jewellery follows their moves, embodying the very feeling of freedom that surrounds the spirit of this collection. Watch Chopard’s new Happy Diamonds film on WATCHOOGLE.com.

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TAG Heuer and Nissan are partners in racing

Timelab raises the standard Timelab, the Geneva watchmaking and micro-technical laboratory foundation, has become the first watchmaking certifications body in Switzerland to have its entire range of activities accredited under four international ISO/IEC standards, starting with the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva hallmark) and Observatoire Chronométrique, and rating certificates based on the ISO/IEC 3159 standard. The aim is to add more to value the work of the watchmakers and provide customers with an additional guarantee of quality.

TAG Heuer is the official timekeeper and official watch partner of Nissan NISMO, as announced during the January Super Bowl broadcast. TAG Heuer’s logo was seen in a Nissan ad on Nissan’s brand new GT-R LM NISMO that will be racing in the FIA World Endurance Championship (WEC), which includes the LeMans 24. The logo was also seen on the driver’s overalls. “TAG Heuer’s legitimate ties to endurance races in motorsports are without rival,” explains Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG Heuer and President of Watch Division of LVMH group. “I wanted an innovating partner to come back on these tracks. Nissan NISMO is the perfect challenger, a pioneer regarding the technology of the car and regarding its way to communicate specifically with the young through their massive presence on social media.” TAG Heuer will assist Nissan for its first season in the LM P1 category of the FIA WEC as their official timekeeper and watch. TAG Heuer has a long history at Le Mans starting in the 1970s with Ferrari and then with five consecutive wins, with Peugeot Sport in 2009 and with Audi Sport from 2010 to 2013.

Jimmie Johnson and Misty Copeland new Seiko Ambassadors Chopard welcomes Mark Webber as new Ambassador After enlivening F1 tracks for more than ten years, Australian Porsche Motorsport driver, Mark Weber (seen here with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard co-President) becomes Chopard’s new ambassador. The watchmaking company is looking forward to his arrival, thus strengthening its long established relationship with the world of classic racing, which is today accentuated through a partnership with Porsche Motorsport, the team to which Chopard is the official timing partner. The charismatic Australian pilot, member of the Porsche Motorsport team and former Formula 1 driver, shares with Chopard the perpetual drive for precision and mechanical achievement.

NASCAR Champion Jimmie Johnson and American Ballet Theatre soloist Misty Copeland are new Seiko brand Ambassadors. Each will star in new Seiko advertising starting this fall, featuring the brand’s philosophy of being “always one step ahead of the rest” in new Seiko Coutura and Tressia collection campaigns. Johnson, Seiko’s new face of its Coutura collection for men, is arguably the most dominant driver in the last thirteen years of NASCAR as a six-time NASCAR Champion with seventy-one career wins. Copeland, Seiko’s new face of the Coutura and Tressia collections for ladies, is the first female African American in two decades to become a soloist at American Ballet Theatre and is an inspiration to many. She is also a philanthropist, entertainer and author of a bestselling memoir, Life in Motion, as well as an award-winning children’s picture book, Firebird.

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Blancpain supports the Ocean Innovation Challenge In recognition of its historical connection to the ocean, Blancpain is collaborating with The Economist to present the Ocean Innovation Challenge, which called for pioneering minds to offer solutions that alleviate the tension between growth and sustainability. The Economist and Blancpain invited scalable, economically viable and environmentally sustainable innovations that strive to create or enhance business practices, industries or technologies that contribute to the long-term health of the ocean. Innovators who met these criteria were invited to submit a two-minute video proposal for a chance to win an expenses-paid trip to the World Ocean Summit 2015 to showcase the project to global thought leaders and practitioners building a blue future. The top three finalists will be announced on April 13, and a Blancpain commemorative timepiece will be rewarded to the final winner selected at the Summit, June 3 - 5.

Glashütte Original and Berlinale celebrate Glashütte Original and the Berlinale in February celebrated the 65th Berlin International Film Festival, at which the two organizations celebrated the fifth year of their partnership. The Saxon watchmaker, together with the “Perspektive Deutsches Kino” section of the Berlinale, has been awarding the “Made in Germany – Perspektive Fellowship” since 2012. Since 2014, Glashütte Original has also supported the “Retrospective” and “Homage” sections of the festival, which are dedicated to a different topic in the history of film and a well-known director each year.

Wajdi A. Hadi (left), Genaral Manager Al Manara International Jewellery with Daniel Bacardit-Stamm, General Manager Richard Mille Middle East

Richard Mille boutique Abu Dhabi re-opens with new international design concept Richard Mille is delighted to announce the re-opening of its Abu Dhabi boutique. The boutique space has also been enlarged by 25% from its original size enabling major renovations to take place. Operated in partnership with Al Manara International Jewellery, the newly designed boutique is located in the prestigious The Galleria, Al Maryah Island. The new opening comes shortly after the re-launch of the Dubai boutique in February. Both spaces have been redesigned to introduce the new global design concept that creates a luxurious space offering a tailor made Richard Mille brand experience. The re-launched Richard Mille boutique is located on the R1 Ground Floor of The Galleria.

Petra Kvitova signs global deal with watchmaker Ritmo Mundo

Melissa Arnot attempts to be the first American woman to summit Mount Everest

IMG, a global leader in sports, fashion and media, announced today a new multi-year deal with watchmaker Ritmo Mundo for its client Petra Kvitova. Two-time Wimbledon champion Kvitova is the first tennis player and individual female athlete to become an ambassador for the California-based watch company. Ritmo Mundo will feature Kvitova in advertising and social media campaigns leveraging the world No.4’s global recognition, reach and unique appeal. Founded in 2002 by celebrity jeweler Ali Soltani, Ritmo Mundo is a cutting-edge, vibrant watch brand with modern design, bright colors, and neo-classic shapes in its DNA. Not unlike the 25-year-old Czech Kvitova, Ritmo Mundo values sportsmanship and work ethic in its company values.

Melissa Arnot 31 year old American Alpininst, Alpina Watches Ambassadress, and current Western women’s record holder for Everest summits will attempt, as first American woman, to reach the top of Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen in late May 2015 using the South Col route. As part of her attempt she will be using the Alpina Horological Smartwatch to log her activity and effort of the expedition. She will be monitoring steps, distance, calories and sleep for the entire expedition, including the summit push. Mount Everest, also called Sagarmatha (meaning “Head of the Sky” in Nepalese) and Chomolungma (meaning “Goddess Mother of the World”, in Tibetan), is the world’s highest mountain with its 8.848m (29.029ft).

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Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons opens new Hublot flagship boutique in The Dubai Mall

Phillips inaugural Watch Auction held in Geneva

On April 28, guests, collectors and press members joined Chairman of Hublot Jean-Claude Biver (3rd from right) and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons Vice Chairman Abdulhamied Ahmed Seddiqi (1st from left) and Senior Vice President of Sales and Retail Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi (2nd from right) to discover the new boutique and Big Bang pieces from the past decade. Arab Superstar Ragheb Alama (seen here to Biver’s right) was also present for the celebration as a special guest of Hublot. “We are confident that the brand will grow even stronger with this new location and with the collaboration of our long-standing partners and friends from Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons,” said Jean-Claude Biver. “We are proud to follow the success of Hublot at Mall Of The Emirates with this new boutique in The Dubai Mall,” shared Abdulhamied Ahmed Seddiqi, adding: “Demand on Hublot watches from both local customers and tourists is constantly growing, and we trust it will be met thoroughly.”

Phillips, in Association with Bacs & Russo, held the first inaugural watch auctions at Hôtel La Réserve in Geneva. Glamorous Day-Date was dedicated to Rolex’s most prestigious model and offered 60 of the rarest examples, including unique models and watches with royal provenance. In a packed saleroom of over 300 people, every lot sold for a total of SFr 6,179,400 / $6,634,800 / €5,921,500 (pre-sale estimate: SFr 1.7 million to SFr 3.4 million), and a new record was set for any Rolex Day-Date sold at auction. The highest price was paid for ‘Big Kahuna’, one of only two known 6612 references made in platinum. It smashed the world record price for any Rolex Day-Date sold at auction realising SFr 473,000 / $507,865 / €453,259, more than doubling its pre-sale estimate of SFr 100,000 to 200,000. Multiple records were established for individual references and models.

TAG Heuer, Google, and Intel announce Swiss Smartwatch collaboration

Brand Ambassador Abhishek Bachchan opens OMEGA Boutique in Kuwait

TAG Heuer, Google, and Intel have announced a partnership to launch a Swiss smartwatch powered by Intel technology and Android Wear. The effort signifies a new era of collaboration between Swiss watchmakers and Silicon Valley, bringing together each company’s respective expertise in luxury watchmaking, software and hardware. The collaboration was made official at Baselworld, during a press conference held at the TAG Heuer booth. Jean-Claude Biver, President of the Watch Division LVMH Group and CEO of TAG Heuer, David Singleton, Director of Engineering for Android Wear, and Michael Bell, Corporate Vice President and General Manager of Intel’s New Devices Group, joined each other on stage.

OMEGA brand Ambassador, the renowned Bollywood actor/producer Abhishek Bachchan, visited Kuwait city along with OMEGA’s Vice President and Head of International Sales, Raynald Aeschlimann. They participated in the official opening of Morad Yousuf Behbehani’s third mono-brand OMEGA boutique at 360 Mall. The GCC market is an important segment for OMEGA and the Kuwaiti watch connoisseurs contribute significantly to the success of the industry in the region. The Kuwait retail market has long been a favourite for manufacturers of upscale watches and high-end jewellery who have firmly set their sights on this oil-rich Northern Gulf state.

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Two podiums for Porsche at the Six Hours of Spa-Francorchamps

Oris Aviators’ Basel Mission reaches Oman The Oris Aviators Team led by Karim Gerber, Oris’s Middle East Region Manager and former Swissair pilot Simon Maurer have landed in Muscat to showcase along with Khimji’s Watches the Oris Baselworld 2015 collection. The Oris team has reached Oman after having flown to Grenchen in Switzerland, Thessaloniki and Crete in Greece, Cairo and Hurghada in Egypt, Jeddah and Ryiadh in Saudi Arabia, displaying the brand’s Baselworld 2015 new collections for Khimji’s Watches clients at the Oman Automobile Association. Already a well-known name for quality and efficiency, Khimji’s Watches is the brand’s partner in Oman. In a unique Oris Aviators’ Basel Mission from April 15 to May 8, 2015 the Oris team is flying the brand’s new collection in an Oris-branded two-seater Pilatus PC-7 Turbo Trainer to 8 countries in the Middle East and the Mediterranean region. These countries include Greece, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Oman, UAE, Qatar, Bahrain and Kuwait. Karim Gerber looked forward with confidence: ‘‘Having presented our collections in few countries, we are excited about our mission in Oman. The support that Khimji’s Watches team has extended to us is invaluable. We are proud to have them as our partners for more than two decades“. Nailesh Khimji, Director of Khimji Ramdas, also commented saying: “We are delighted to welcome the Oris team in Oman. Oris has really adopted a unique way to showcase the brand collections. It befits a brand like Oris that is closely connected with the world of aviation. Similarly Oris has a huge passion for the fast paced world of motorsport and that is the reason behind our association with the Oman Automobile Association that will be used as the venue for all Oris related events.“ The Oman Automobile Association (OAA) was founded in 1979 and located in Seeb airport heights. The association is affiliated with the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA), the governing body for world motorsports and Alliance Internationale de Tourisme (AIT) which aims to standardize the issuing of international driving licenses and Carnet De Passages around the world, in addition to (FIM) which is the governing association of cyclists around the world. The aim of the association is to develop and promote motor sports discipline and activities around the Sultanate by organizing different motor sports activities such as rally, karting, motocross, sprint races, drift and many more.

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A promising round to prepare Porsche Motorsport and Chopard for Le Mans 2015. After clocking up a double success at the opening race of the season in Silverstone, the Porsche teams competed at SpaFrancorchamps on May 2nd. All teams campaigned for victory and made the most of this race to prepare for Le Mans. The three Porsche 919 Hybrid led by Romain Dumas, Mark Webber and Nico Hülkenberg reached the second, third and sixth positions in the LMP1 championship. Since 2012, the World Endurance Championship has been the ambassador for Le Mans-style endurance racing around the world. One of the most famous moments every year at the 24 Hours of Le Mans is the traditional start procedure where the cars line up alongside the pitwall facing the grand stands. In 2015, the WEC will be using the Le Mans-style start procedure at every round, providing a unique experience for racing fans, bringing to SpaFrancorchamps the spirit of Le Mans. The Spa-Francorchamps track is acknowledged as one of the finest in the world. Named the “Toboggan of the Ardennes” (Ardennes slopes), this extremely fast circuit is highly technical and greatly appreciated by drivers. It features certain difficulties that have become legendary, such as the famous steep fast right-hand corner known as the Raidillon, the high-speed winding turns and the very slow loop called La Source. With its straight lines and rapid curves, this track offers sensations unknown to other tracks, for both drivers and spectators. The present track is 7,395 km long. At Spa Francorchamps, experience makes the difference.

The phenomenon that is G.E.M. becomes the new TAG Heuer Ambassador in Asia A phenomenon all over Asia. She’s young, beautiful and talented, with a powerful voice and a much-emulated look. She’s hugely successful and, at just 24, loved and admired by youngsters throughout China and Asia, who know her songs by heart.An established singer, composer, dancer, musician and actor, G.E.M. - which stands for “Get Everybody Moving”performs in front of tens of thousands of fans. #DontCrackUnderPressure could be her motto. Jean-Claude Biver, President of the Watch division of the LVMH Group and CEO of TAG Heuer, stated: “I am particularly proud that G.E.M. has chosen to become the TAG Heuer Ambassador. She is only 24 years old, and set to become an icon for an entire generation”.

Will.i.am and Gucci Timepiece President & CEO Stephane Linder display one of many smart watch debuts at Baselworld 2015.

BASELWORLD 2015 - Skeletons, thin cases, new calibers and connected watches lead trends Baselworld, the largest annual gathering of the world’s watch companies, their enthusiasts and business partners, concluded in late March with several interesting in-house movement debuts, numerous thinner cases, a host of skeletonized watches and a surge in smart watches. Talk among veteran watch collectors focused on Tudor’s first inhouse movement, Patek Philippe’s controversial new pilot watch, an ‘affordable’ tourbillon model from TAG Heuer, Omega’s Snoopy-dialed Speedmaster and the Oysterflex-strapped Rolex Yacht-Master. At the same time many enthusiasts also noted the general continuation of vintage styles and thinner cases, more blue and brown dials and the newest options being developed to allow sharing a watch display with data on a mobile device. On the latter point, several watch brands used Baselworld 2015 to announce actual or pending ‘smart’ watches or similar cloud-connected wrist devices. Among the most anticipated Baselworld launches in this realm were seen at Bulgari, Gucci and TAG Heuer, all of which followed earlier smart watch announcements from Alpina/Frédérique Constant and Breitling. With vintage designs continuing to lead many new collections, the appropriately thin and/or smaller-case debuts at Corum, TAG Heuer, Breitling, Frédérique Constant, Oris, Chopard and many others were right on-trend. At least four thin-model debuts, from Nomos Glasshütte, Zenith, Eterna and Hermés, were created with wholly new in-house movements. New calibers, thin and standard-sized, were also seen at the aforementioned Tudor, Hublot, Arnold & Son, Ulysse Nardin, Perrelet, Seiko and Patek Philippe, among many others. As is often the case each year, independent makers attracted consumers in search of novel designs or a more personalized timepiece-buying experience, with high marks heard show-wide for debuts from H. Moser, Manufacture Royale, MB&F, Romain Jerome, MCT, HYT, and Speake-Marin, among others. On the ladies’ watch front, mechanical movements combined with luxe design indicate that there’s no longer a great divide between watches with serious interiors and those with seriously bejeweled exteriors. This ongoing trend was evidenced perhaps most dramatically by Fabergé’s new Lady Compliquée collection with its Agenhor-designed movement. Other fresh examples of this trend include Breguet’s latest Reine de Naples Haute Joaillerie, Jaquet Droz’s new ladies’ timepieces, updated Happy Sport watches from Chopard, and of course 2015 iterations of Chanel’s emblematic J12 and Dior’s Grand Bal. Dials for this year feature everything from pearl marquetry to butterfly wings to embroidery, and though we keep hearing that yellow gold is making its way back, white and rose gold cases still control the majority when it comes to high-end watches. Check WATCHOOGLE.com and our next print issue for complete details for these and many other debuts from Baselworld 2015.

3 1. Patek Phillipe’s Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524G-001 2. Breitling’s B55 Connected 3. Tudor’s first in-house movement, Caliber MT5621, now inside its new North Flag and Pelagos. 4. Zenith’s dressy Elite 6150 5. Bulgari’s thin Roma Finissimo, with in-house movement, joined many slim 2015 debuts. 6. Breguet’s Tradition 7087. 7. Faberge’s Lady Compliqué.

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Cartier inaugurates its newest boutique at The Kingdom Center Mall

Piaget Celebrates Independent Films

Cartier celebrates the grand opening of Cartier Boutique at The Kingdom Center, Riyadh’s latest luxury destination. The boutique marks Cartier’s second boutique in Riyadh and fourth in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. The unveiling of Cartier’s boutique was celebrated with an opening ceremony officiated by Laurent Gaborit, Regional Managing Director of Cartier Middle East, India, and Africa, along with Yacoob Al Sharif Al Hashemi, Executive Director Sara Holding Group. The boutique exclusively designed by renowned architect Bruno Moinard provides a series of distinct, but interconnected, environments, with a real sense of privacy and intimacy. Designed to exude luxury through a quiet elegance, the inviting oak clad and bronze-toned interiors showcase fine jewellery, timepieces, accessories and bridal collections. Those who seek a more discreet viewing of the creations will take delight in the comfort and exclusivity of the private room clad in light shimmering silk-satin fabrics and pallets of gold and ivory.

Piaget co-hosted the 30th annual Film Independent Spirit Awards, held in Santa Monica in February, for the eighth consecutive year. The event paid tribute to some of this year’s most important films and also attracted the biggest names in Hollywood, including Piaget’s new international brand ambassador and Best Supporting Female nominee for “A Most Violent Year,” Jessica Chastain (above, right), along with Michael Keaton, Julianne Moore, Scarlett Johansson and a host of other stars, many wearing Piaget watches and jewelry. Actress Kristen Bell (above, left) presented the Piaget Producer’s Award to Chris Ohlson. The award features a $25,000 grant and is given to emerging producers who demonstrate creativity, tenacity and vision, and produce quality independent films, despite limited resources. Also on display was a selection of Piaget timepieces and vintage jewelry, as well as the Piaget’s new book Piaget: Watchmakers and Jewelers since 1874 by Florence Müller.

CHF 650’000.- for a F.P. Journe “Tourbillon Souverain” CHF 650’000.- for an F.P. Journe “Tourbillon Souverain“ at the Charity Gala organized for the 15th Anniversary of Action Innocence, the auction was very lively: under the gavel of Aurel Bacs, Robert Manoukian and Claude Sfeir were bidding against each other up to CHF 350’000.-. Claude Sfeir won the battle and in a burst of generosity, Robert Manoukian added another CHF 300’000.- to the adjudicated price at the profit of the foundation. The “élégante” in Titanium and rubber also sold for a record price of 55’000.CHF. These 2 unique watches have been especially made at the colors of Action Innocence. The Action Innocence charity auction took place in presence of numerous guests who have generously mobilized their forces for the protection of children on internet.

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Roger Dubuis awards Poker Player of the Year As a part of its partnership with the Global Poker Index (GPI), Poker’s ranking authority, Roger Dubuis awarded the Player of the Year winner with a unique Roger Dubuis timepiece at the GPI American Poker Awards this past February in Los Angeles. The annual gala dinner, hosted by well-known poker player and media personality Kara Scott, honored top players and industry contributors from a diverse array of categories. The Player of the Year award went to Dan Smith (pictured), who was awarded a Roger Dubuis La Monégasque timepiece to his obvious delight.

Artemis Racing Sailing team

Adrien Brody

Bella Thorne

Ulysse Nardin & Artemis racing partners for the 35Th America’s Cup

Bulgari supports Save the Children’s humanitarian efforts in nepal with €500,000

Ulysse Nardin will fly the colors of Artemis Racing for the next America’s Cup campaign, beginning next June and running until 2017. As the challenger of record for the most recent America’s Cup, Artemis Racing is a professional sailing team representing Kungliga Svenska Segel Sällskapet (KSSS – the Royal Swedish Yacht Club), the fifth-oldest yacht club in the world. Founded in 2006 by Torbjörn Törnqvist and named after the Greek goddess Artemis, the team has won numerous competitions worldwide, including the MedCup and TP52 World Championships and the RC44 World Championship. “It is an honor for Ulysse Nardin to enter into a cooperation with Artemis Racing,” says Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin. “Ulysse Nardin’s history of navigating the sea paired with the DNA of innovation and technology, which is firmly established in both companies, makes this partnership a perfect match. When meeting the Artemis engineers, technicians, and craftsmen at their base in San Francisco, I quickly realized that the spirit of passion and innovation is the driving force behind this extraordinary team. “ According to Iain Percy, Artemis Team Manager and skipper, the America’s Cup is synonymous with style, technology, design, and prestige, and the new breed of foiling-wing sailed catamarans demands more than ever before. “This cycle and the future of our sport is about original thinking, developing new materials, and pushing the boundaries of what we understand about yacht design and racing. In Ulysse Nardin we are lucky to have found a partner that shares our values, our passion for teamwork, our desire to innovate, and an ambition to lead in our respective fields,” he adds.

Bulgari is supporting Save the Children’s humanitarian response with €500,000. The goal is to help normalize the lives and living conditions of the children and families affected by the earthquake. Coincidentally, Bulgari and Save the Children have been planning to start in 2016 a new youth empowerment project in Nepal. Jean-Christophe Babin, Chief Executive Officer of the Bulgari Group believes that Bulgari’s decision to support the humanitarian crisis in the region has been particularly fast and meaningful in its reach and impact. “The earthquake in Nepal has had such devastating consequences,” he says. “We need to do as much as we can, and as quickly as we can. The children and their families are our first priority. Especially in the critical area of nutrition which is the focus of Milano 2015 Universal Exhibition where we already collaborate with Save the Children on this crucial theme.” A massive earthquake hit Nepal on 25 April. Measuring 7.9 on the Richter Scale, the massive earthquake has caused untold damage. Nepal’s government has declared a national emergency. The numbers reveal a heartbreaking picture: 8 million people, including 3.2 million of children and adolescents, live in the affected area; more than 6,800 have died; over 14,000 injured; 320,000 children are homeless. The numbers keep rising. The destruction of roads, bridges and other infrastructure makes humanitarian access and communication difficult. Despite these logistical difficulties, Save the Children teams arrived on the ground with life-saving aid just hours after the earthquake. Save the Children has worked in Nepal since 1976, though it’s been harnessing its expertise in disaster relief following events like this earthquake for over 90 years.

IWC launches Limited Edition Ingenieur at Goodwood IWC Schaffhausen assumed its role as Timing Partner for the Goodwood Members’ Meeting, held this year in England for the 73rd time. During the event IWC unveiled a special watch dedicated to the brand’s tenyear partnership with Mercedes-AMG. The Ingenieur Automatic Edition “AMG GT” is made of solid boron carbide and is limited to twenty-five pieces. As a further highlight, during the weekend IWC and MercedesAMG organized a race between the legendary first AMG racing car, the new sports car Mercedes-AMG GT and a Mercedes F1 W04. The name chosen for the new watch is a tribute to the new Mercedes-AMG sports car, the second vehicle built entirely in-house by the performance brand of Mercedes-Benz. As a tribute to its namesake, the designers of the Ingenieur Automatic Edition AMG GT have combined the color black with yellow elements that reference AMG’s own “solarbeam” color.

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NEWS NEWS

Press announcement from Rolex SA “The Board of Directors of Rolex SA is pleased to announce that Jean-Frederic Dufour will take office as Chief Executive Officer on Wednesday 17th June 2015, the date that our Ordinary General Assembly is held. The Board warmly thanks Gian Riccardo Marini for the excellence of his work and the magnificent results obtained. He will be appointed to the Board of our company on this occasion.”

Matthias Breschan, CEO, RADO

Dominique & Macha Vananty, Daniel Spadini & Aldo Magada

Daniel Spadini & Aldo Magada - Biarritz

Rado opens its first mono-brand boutique in Switzerland

2015 Edition of the Tour Auto Optic 2ooo Zenith at the finish line as official timekeeper!

Rado has increased its presence in its domestic market, opening the first mono-brand Rado boutique in Switzerland. Situated in a prominent location on the Schwanenplatz in Lucerne, the brand offers an attractive selection of its latest collections. Rado CEO Matthias Breschan officially opened the store on 27 April 2015. “The first Rado boutique in Switzerland is a big and important step for the expansion of our brand. With the new location in the heart of Switzerland, we offer a pleasant shopping experience to our Swiss customers and tourists from around the world”. Smooth black elements mix with a range of elegant taupe and bronze tones to form the design of Rado stores. The luxurious ambience reflects the spirit of the avant-garde brand and invites visitors to discover exclusive Rado collections. In addition to the Coupole, Centrix and True families, recent additions such as the HyperChrome and DiaMaster collections are also available in the boutique.

Zenith was at the finish line in Biarritz... Chronograph in hand, in order to officially list the times of the competitors and definitively confirm the victory of the Jean-Pierre Lajournade/Christophe Bouchet crew at the wheel of their Jaguar Type E 3.8L. When it comes to the Tour Auto, this sentence is particularly appropriate... Zenith, its drivers and the support team all took away intense experiences from the event. As for the competition, Zenith was extremely proud of and delighted by its role as official timekeeper. Zenith is proud of its three drivers: Felix Baumgartner at the wheel of a 1955 Mercedes Benz 300SL, Daniel Spadini in a 1964 Jaguar type E 3.8L and Dominique Vananty at the wheel of a 1965 Porsche 911. For these three champions as well as Aldo Magada, President and CEO of Zenith and Daniel Spadini’s codriver, these five days were nothing but pure pleasure. The joy of driving collector cars, the adrenaline rush while competing, and the experiences shared during the stages.

French tennis star Bartoli wears a Saint Honore watch Former Wimbledon champion and French tennis superstar Marion Bartoli was a big draw at the recently concluded Baselworld 2015, where she was a guest at the Saint Honore luxury event. Bartoli, who won the most glamorous title in tennis in 2013 and finished runner-up in 2007, has also won eight WTA singles titles and three doubles titles in her eventful career. “It was an enormous pleasure and privilege to host a superstar like Ms. Bartoli at our stand. She is someone who has climbed the pinnacle of success in her particular field and represents the same commitment to excellence and style that Saint Honore does through our varied creations,” said Olivier Birault, CEO of Saint Honore.

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Marion Bartoli visits Saint Honore

Just a sec...! WATCHOOGLE.com is LIVE Education, knowledge and information represent the paramount reasons behind this global unique objective that covers the watchmakers, the retailers and the consumers of the watches world. The concept is pretty much simple. To contribute to the benefits of communities around the world, in pursuit of their constructive and positive development towards a better understanding of the timekeeping world, where fine watchmaking and its multiple elements, segments and parameters are in need to be explored and explained today, much more than tomorrow. Every single thing, every single issue, every single aspect in this world is linked to time. We believe in making each moment of time worth it. Without intellectual basis and progressive development of knowledge, that would not be possible. WATCHOOGLE.com makes a comprehensive and wide effort to reach out to all those increasing lacks trying to eliminate through a platform that will illuminate. Backed with many world premiere ideas, WATCHOOGLE.com brings some freshness to the watch digital media surface. The Retailers Lounge is a prime example of one of those new ideas, where the prime objective is to nurture the retailer-client relationship injecting confidence and trust through knowledge and information. The “Forum” is yet another section in WATCHOOGLE.com where, in contrast to what is the case where usually media interview a selected personality, WATCHOOGLE.com offers a rare opportunity to anyone to ask a question directly to the select Guest of Honor. Continuing with the website’s new ideas, “Find a Retailer” is a spectacular informative service where consumers will, at 1 click, enjoy the access to any retailer, of any brand, in any part of the world. Quite an impressive service that is, but also quite important to everyone, whether they are consumers, retailers or watch brands. Also, new ideas come in the form of the independent watchmakers who also enjoy a prime focus exploring their brands and their creations on such a global scale in their own private section called the “Independents Lounge”. Not to forget the fun part too where, in association with the Facebook group “On the Wrist” (we invite you all to become members in it), everyone is invited to post their shots of their watches on the wrist in the mentioned group, which is directly linked to WATCHOOGLE.com’s Forum, where they will eventually find out whether their post will be selected as Shot of the Month. So many more to discover therefore we urge everyone to visit WATCHOOGLE.com and subscribe too, in order to be updated with the news on regular basis. WATCHOOGLE.com is a real platform where all three parties involved in the horology world, Retailers – Watchmakers – Consumers, meet under 1 roof and with one prime objective: Acquire Knowledge and Information. It gives me pride and pleasure to bring you WATCHOOGLE.com. Keep watching and reading,

Vasken Chokarian INTERNATIONAL WATCH JUNE - JULY 2015

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Marine Chronometer Manufacture Manufacture chronometer movement with Silicium technology. Self-winding. Water-resistant to 200 m.

Ulysse Nardin Boutiques The Dubai Mall +971 44341421

Mall of the Emirates +971 43950577

Beirut Souks +961 1992092

gold bracelet. Limited Edition to 350 pieces.

Abu Dhabi: Al Manara International Jewellery +971 25650054 Amman: Time Center +962 65536553 Bahrain: Asia Jewellers + 973 17535344 Cairo: BTC Exlusive +20 237740607 Doha: Ali Bin Ali +974 44131391 Jeddah: First Jewelry +966 126603644 Kuwait: Morad Yousuf Behbehani +965 22464762 Muscat: Le Carat +963 22009991 Riyadh: First Jewelry +966 114602801

U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

U lys s e Nar d in M i ddl e East : +971 45546193

18 ct rose gold case. Available also on rubber strap or.