International Watch Middle East

WATCH

International

Since 1990

middle east

BASELWORLD 2015 BASELW SNEAK PEEK ON SELECT NOVELTIES

BEJEWELED TIME

What qualifies a jewelry watch v/s jewelry

‫اﻟﻨﺴﺎﺋﻴﺔ اﻟﻔــــــﺎﺋﺰة‬ ‫آﻟﻴﺎت ﻣﻌﻘﺪة وﻟﻴﺲ ﻓﻘﻂ اﻟﻤﺎس‬

٢١ ‫ﺧﺰف اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟـ‬ ‫ﺗﻤﻴّﺰ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳــﺔ اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴــﺔ‬

F

O

L

L

O

W

Y

O

U

R

O

W

BOUTIQUES ZENITH D U B A I M A L L • T E L . + 9 71 4 3 3 9 810 4 T H E G A T E M A L L • T E L . + 9 74 4 4 0 7 7 14 9

N

S

T

A

R

E L P R I M E RO C H RO N O M A S T E R 19 6 9

Acknowledged as the world’s best chronograph, it is a descendant of the legendary El Primero first unveiled in 1969 and proudly bears the iconic colours of the fi rst high-frequency automatic column-wheel chronograph calibre. Beating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, this daring feat embodies the exceptional expertise of the Manufacture.

W W W . Z E N I T H - W A T C H E S . C O M

MARCH 19 - 26, 2015 HALL 1.1 - STAND E-09

The Ultimate Blue A SCINTILLATING 22 CARAT NATURAL UNHEATED CUSHION BURMA SAPPHIRE FLANKED BY EPAULET DIAMONDS, ALL SET WITHIN AN ELABORATE DIAMOND MICROPAVE RING.

THE MOST PRECIOUS STONES IN THE WORLD

WWW.BAYCO.COM

NEW YORK

COPYRIGHT 2015 BAYCO JEWELS LLC ALL RIGHTS RESERVED - PHOTOGRAPHY: BRIAN MOGHADAM

WAtch

International

Since 1990

middle east

2015

26

APRIL / MAY

COVER STORY

!‫اﻟﻤﺤﺎرب ذو اﻟﺮداء‬

30

‫ ﺣﺮﻓﻴﺔ ﺗﻄﻐﻮ ﺑﺮوﻧﻖ ﺧﺎص‬- Bouchet

32

‫ ﻫﺠﻴﻦ‬GPS ‫ ﺗﻄﻠﻖ أول ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬Casio

34

‫ رﻣﻮز وﺷﻐﻒ وﺟﻤﺠﻤﺔ‬Fiona Krüger

36

‫ ﻛﻤﺎ ﺟﺒﺎل ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا‬Seculus

38

‫ﺧﺰف اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺤﺎدي واﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬

40

‫ﺻﻔﺤﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‬

42

Ordinary to Extraordinary

45

Say “I Do” with Harry Winston

47

Bejeweled

49

Frieden Swiss & Unique

51

Art as far as the eye can see

53

BASELWORLD 2015 - Sneak Peek

61

Art Basel Miami

63

Independent Atelier - Grönefeld

65

Zenith - Just your Type

67

Strapped for Time

71

Material Science

75

Caliber Kings

79

Watch Guide - Minute Repeaters

83

Auctions

85

2 Decades of Lange 1

87

On The Wrist - Porsche Design

89

Passions - The Galápagos Evolved

91

Market

93

News

97

Editor‘s Note

98

65

53 63 91

71

75

16

S

26

T

‫ اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ‬Chopard ‫ﺑﺮاﻋﺔ‬

N

20

E

‫اﻟﺠﻮاﺋﺰ ﻛﻠﻬﺎ ﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺴﻴﺪات‬

T

18

N

‫ ﺗﻜﺮﻳﻢ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻟﻌﺼﺮ اﻟﺘﻨﻮﻳﺮ‬Jaquet Droz

O

16

C

‫ ﻗﻮة اﻟﻤﺮأة وﺟﺪﻳﺪ آﺧﺮ ﻟﺒﺎزل وورﻟﺪ‬Perrelet

WAtch

International

Since 1990

middle east

2015 pUbliShEr & Editor-in-ChiEf

Vasken Chokarian Managing Editor & art dirECtor

Katia Sessa CrEativE SolUtionS

Managing Editor

Nancy Olson

Dr. Thomas Mao

advErtiSing SalES

MaStEr watChMakEr/tEChniCal adviSor

v.chokarian@Lbcme.ae

Donald Loke

rEgional SalES ManagEr

aSSoCiatE Editor

Avedis Jokarian admin@Lbcme.ae

Rachel Gold joUrnaliStS / ContribUting writErS

graphiC & layoUt dESign

Jonnel Herman adMiniStration & finanCE

Liz Perrera offiCE ManagEr

Jessica Hitalia SwiSS Editor

Nola Martin gErMan CorrESpondEnt

Elizabeth Doerr Uk CorrESpondEnt

John Goodall EUropEan CorrESpondEnt

Theodore Diehl-Peshkur SwiSS CorrESpondEnt

Ian Skellern hEadqUartErS

Luxury Business Communications P.O. Box 474182, Dubai - U.A.E. Phone: +9714 88 555 25 Fascimile: +9714 88 555 26 email: editor@Lbcme.ae follow US on faCEbook

http://www.facebook.com/ iWMiddleEastMagazine SUbSCription/ CUStoMEr SErviCE

Luxury Business Communications P.O. Box 474182, Dubai - U.A.E. Phone: +9714 88 555 25 Fascimile: +9714 88 555 26 email: admin@Lbcme.ae Fine Life Media LLC, 65 St. James Place, Ardmore, PA 19003 U.S.A. Ph: (484) 417-2125 www.finelifemedia.com

Michael Thompson

SpECial Editorial adviSor

Gajou Art Studio

USa Edition

Editor-in-ChiEf US Edition

Renée Amellio Carol Besler Thomas Byczkowski Deanna Cullen Josh Dean Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle Daniel B. England Keith Flamer Martin Foster Meehna Goldsmith C. Bradley Jacobs Ken Kessler Steven Miceli Jordan Rothacker Jeff Stein Jan Teglar Dr. Melvyn Telliol-Foo Ernest R. Tope Timothy Treffry Anthony Tsai Carlo Wolff Anthony Young Vivien Mao Michael Clerizo Daos Boonma Dimitri Pavloski Megan Samoskevich Sheldon K. Smith Myles Mellor Steve Lundin Paul H. Boutros Tara Brennan Paul H. Boutros Howard Parr Manuel Yazijian Angus Davies Jason Heaton

.‫ كل حقوق النشر محفوظة‬.‫املقاالت املنشورة تعبر عن آراء كتابها دون حتمل أي مسؤولية‬ All advertising is subject to approval before acceptance. The publisher reserves the right to refuse any ad for any reason whatsoever, without limit. The publisher assumes no responsibility for claims made by advertisers. All views expressed in all articles are those of the writers and not necessarily those of this publication. The publisher assumes no responsibility and no liability for unsolicited materials. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part or storage in any data retrieval system without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form. All rights reserved.

- ‫ درهم‬450‫ دول مجلس التعاون اخلليجي‬- ‫ درهم‬250 ‫ اإلمارات‬،‫ اإلشتراكات مبا فيها أجور البريد‬.‫ل‬.‫ ل‬10،000 ‫ لبنان‬- ‫ ريال‬2 ‫ عُمان‬- ‫ ريال‬25 ‫ قطر‬- ‫ دينار‬2،5 ‫ البحرين‬- ‫ دينار‬2 ‫ الكويت‬- ‫ ريال‬25 ‫ السعودية‬- ‫ درهم‬25 ‫اإلمارات‬ ‫ درهم‬550 ‫باقي الدول العربية‬

real watches for real people

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter Patented automatic mechanical movement with mechanical altimeter Matt-satin stainless steel case Water resistant to 10 bar/100 m

www.oris.ch

CONTRIBUTORS CONTRIBUTORS

FUN

FACT

Did you know?

The widespread appeal of collecting is thought to be connected to the hunting and gathering that was once necessary for human survival.

Many Heuer and TAG Heuer collectors focus on discovering the few examples of early Heuer Caliber 11 ‘chronomatic’ dials, which used a word that combines ‘chronograph’ and ‘automatic.’ But Heuer wasn’t the only brand with the word on a dial. Recall that in the years prior to 1969 Heuer, Breitling, Zenith and Seiko set out to produce the world’s first automatic chronograph. Heuer and Breitling worked in a unique partnership; Seiko and Zenith each worked alone. Both Heuer and Breitling used ‘chronomatic’ when their watches with the new calibers launched but Heuer dropped the phrase, substituting ‘automatic chronograph’ while Breitling kept using ‘chronomat,’ already one its most recognizable collections.

JASON HEATON Jason Heaton writes about adventure travel, outdoor gear and timepieces from his home base of Minneapolis. In addition to International Watch, he also contributes to Gear Patrol, Hodinkee, Revolution and Men’s Journal.

MANUEL YAZIJIAN Yazijian has been in the watch repair field for 30 years where his father was an Omega watch retailer. He began in this field as an apprentice and went on to work for Henry Birks and Sons in Montreal, Canada as a bench watchmaker. He then opened his own service center which he ran for ten years and then became the chief watchmaking instructor for the American WatchmakersClockmakers institute based near Cincinnati, Ohio where he helped create and taught watch repair courses to support the Industry recognized CW21 exam (Certified Watchmaker 21st Century). In late 2007 Yazijian moved to California where he set up his own specialty watch service business, mainly working on higher end watches, such as vintage and modern Rolex watches. Yazijian then became the Technical Consultant for Swatch Group USA where his main task was to conduct Quality Control inspections of watch service providers. He also served as the President of the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute for the designated two years. Among many of the technical trainings received, Yazijian has been to WOSTEP Switzerland for a specialization course in Mechanical Chronographs. He currently has his own technical consulting company where he specializes in evaluating and auditing watch service facilities.

HOWARD PARR A senior moderator on Timezone. com, and an artist for over twenty years, Howard Parr has sold paintings in several continents.

He is a graduate of U.C. Berkeley, earned a diploma from the Sorbonne, is a certified Harley-Davidson mechanic and co-founded software company BankHunter with his wife of fifteen years.

ANGUS DAVIES Angus Davies is a self-confessed horological addict. It was this passion for watch collecting that led to the 2011 launch of his own website, Escapement. He now regularly writes articles for other websites and magazines both in his native U.K., mainland Europe and the U.S. These include Great Golf Magazine, Deluxe Swiss Made and professionalwatches.com, to name a few, as well as writing for watch manufacturers.

CAROL BESLER Toronto-based Carol Besler has written about watches for twenty years, with stories appearing in International Watch, Journal Haute Horlogerie, Haute Living, Watch Journal, The Robb Report, Worth, Fashion Magazine, The New York Times, Financial Post, Sharp For Men, The Book For Men, Patek Philippe Magazine and Nuvo Magazine. She is the former editor of the Ladies edition of International Watch.

Y-JEAN MUN-DELSALLE A freelance journalist and editorial consultant who has lived on three different continents, Y-Jean is no stranger to change. She finds joy and solace in writing and contributes regularly to regional and international titles such as Asia Tatler, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel, Plaza Watch, Revolution, The Peak and Time Out, shining a spotlight in particular on art, architecture, design, horology and jewelry.

ELIZABETH DOERR Born in Michigan, Elizabeth Doerr has dedicated most of her waking hours to mechanical watches since 1991 after visiting the Basel Fair. Regularly contributing to numerous high-quality magazines and websites all over the world, Elizabeth reaches millions of readers every year. Elizabeth, who lives and works in Germany’s Karlsruhe with her husband and two children, published her first independent book in early 2010: 12 Faces of Time, a “love letter” to independent watchmaking.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 14

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ Turbine Skeleton‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺳﺘﻄﻠﻘﻬﺎ ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻣﻌﺮض ﺑﺎزل وورﻟﺪ ‪٢٠١٥‬‬

‫ﻟﻠﺴﻴﺪات ﻓﻘﻂ!‬ ‫اﺳﺘﻮﺣﻲ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ New Diamond Flower Gold‬ﻣﻦ زﻫﺮة اﻟﻠﻮﺗﺲ‪ ،‬إﻧﻬﺎ أﺣﺪث‬ ‫ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﻳﻀﺎف إﻟﻰ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ‪ Diamond Flower‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﺘﻮاﻓﺮ ﺳﺎﺑﻘ ًﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ أو‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺰف‪ .‬ﻳﺒﻠﻎ ﻗﻄﺮ ﻏﻼف ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ٣٦،٥‬ﻣﻠﻢ وﻫﻮ ﻣﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﺰﻫﺮي اﻟﺪاﻓﺊ اﻟﻠﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﺬي ﻳﻌﺰّز ﺟﻤﺎل اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﻓﺮة ﺑﺄﻟﻮان ا ﺑﻴﺾ أو ا ﺳﻮد أو اﻟﺒﻨﻲ‪ .‬وﻣﺮﻓﻘﺔ ﺑﺴﻮار ﻣﻦ ﺟﻠﺪ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻤﺴﺎح اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﻓﺮة ﺑﺄﻟﻮان ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ ﺗﺘﻤﺎﺷﻰ ﻣﻊ أﻟﻮان اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ :‬ا ﺑﻴﺾ اﻟﺜﻠﺠﻲ‪ ،‬ا ﺳﻮد اﻟﺤﺎﻟﻚ‪،‬‬ ‫أو اﻟﺒﻨﻲ ﺑﻠﻮن اﻟﺸﻮﻛﻮﻻ‪ .‬ﻳﺘﻮاﻓﺮ أﻳﻀ ًﺎ ﺳﻮار ﻣﻄﺎﻃﻲ ﺑﺄﻟﻮان ﻣﺘﻨﺎﺳﻘﺔ‪ .‬وﻳﺜﺒﺖ اﻟﺴﻮار‪ ،‬اﻟﺠﻠﺪي‬ ‫أو اﻟﻤﻄﺎﻃﻲ‪ ،‬ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻌﺼﻢ ﺑﻮاﺳﻄﺔ إﺑﺰﻳﻢ ذﻫﺒﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﺰﻫﺮي ﻣﻦ ﻋﻴﺎر ‪ ١٨‬ﻗﻴﺮاﻃﺎً‪.‬‬ ‫أﻣﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪاﺧﻞ‪ ،‬ﻓﺘﻘﻮم ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ آﻟﻴﺔ ﺣﺼﺮﻳﺔ ذاﺗﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻌﺒﺌﺔ ﻣﺰدوﺟﺔ اﻟﺪوار ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﻊ‬ ‫‪ Perrelet‬ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺑﻘﺪرة ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﻔﻆ ﻟﻤﺪة ‪ ٤٢‬ﺳﺎﻋﺔ وﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ ﺑﻤﺜﺎﺑﺔ ﺗﻤﺮﻳﻦ ﻣﻦ ﺣﻴﺚ اﻟﺸﻜﻞ‬ ‫ﻣﺼﻤﻢ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷﻜﻞ زﻫﺮة اﻟﻠﻮﺗﺲ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وآﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ‪ :‬ﻓﺎﻟﺪوار اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻲ ﻳﻘﻮم ﺑﺘﻌﺒﺌﺔ ا‪Ä‬ﻟﻴﺔ وﻫﻮ‬

‫ﺗﺄﺗﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ First Class Lady Open Heart‬ﺑﻨﺴﺨﺔ ﻣﻊ ﻣﻴﻨﺎ اﺳﻮد اﻟﻠﻮن‬

‫وﻳﻤﻜﻦ رؤﻳﺘﻪ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ .‬ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻘﺎﺑﻞ‪ ،‬ﺗﺄﺗﻲ اﻟﺠﻬﺔ اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻐﻼف ﺷﻔﺎﻓﺔ ﻓﺘﺴﻤﺢ ﺑﺮؤﻳﺔ‬ ‫ا‪Ä‬ﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺎﺋﺰة ﺑﺮاءة اﺧﺘﺮاع ﻣﻦ زاوﻳﺔ أﺧﺮى‪ .‬أﻣﺎ اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮات‪ ،‬ﻓﺘﺄﺗﻲ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷﻜﻞ ﺑﺘﻼت اﻟﺰﻫﺮة‪،‬‬

‫ﺗﻜﻤﻦ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة ي ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻫﻴﻜﻠﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻼﻋﺐ ﺑﺘﺄﺛﻴﺮات اﻟﺸﻔﺎﻓﻴﺔ‪ ،‬وﻫﻮ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺤﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﺎ‬

‫ﺑﻌﻀﻬﺎ ﻣﺮّﺻﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس‪ ،‬وﻣﻮزّﻋﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ ا رﻗﺎم اﻟﺮوﻣﺎﻧﻴﺔ ‪ ٣‬و‪ ٦‬و‪ ٩‬و‪ .١٢‬وﻳﻜﺘﻤﻞ ﺷﻜﻞ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‬

‫ﺗﺤﻘﻘﻪ ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ ﺑﻬﻴﻜﻠﺔ ﺣﺮﻛﺘﻬﺎ راﺋﻌﺔ اﻟﺼﻨﻊ ذاﺗﻴﺎ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﻛﻠﻲ وﻫﻲ »ﻋﻴﺎر ‪ «P-381‬اﻟﺬي ﻳﺘﺴﻢ‬

‫ﺑﻌﻘﺎرب اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت واﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ واﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰﻳﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﺑـﺘﺄﺛﻴﺮات ﺷﻘﻴﺔ ﺗُﻈﻬﺮ ا ﻋﻤﺎل اﻟﺪاﺧﻠﻴﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻧﻘﺎﺷﻮ وﻣﺼﻨﻌﻮ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻓﻲ ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ ﺑﺮاﻋﺔ‬

‫أﻣﺎ اﻟﻤﺮأة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺮﻏﺐ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻈﻬﺮ أﻧﻴﻖ أﻛﺜﺮ ﻛﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗﻘﺪّ م ‪ Perrelet‬ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪First Class‬‬

‫ﻣﻨﻘﻄﻌﺔ اﻟﻨﻈﻴﺮ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺄدﻳﺔ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻬﻴﻜﻠﺔ اﻟﻤﺬﻫﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻄﻠﺐ درﺟﺔ ﻋﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻜﻔﺎءة ودراﻳﺔ‬

‫‪ Lady Open Heart‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺑﻐﻼف ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ ﻳﺒﻠﻎ ﻗﻄﺮه ‪ ٣٥‬ﻣﻠﻢ‪ ،‬وﺑﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻮن ا ﺳﻮد‬

‫دﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﻴﻮد اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ ‪Ä‬ﻟﻴﺎت اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ‪.‬‬

‫وﺛﻮان ﻣﺮﻛﺰﻳﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻧﺮى ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﻗﻊ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫أو ا ﺑﻴﺾ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ أرﻗﺎﻣ ًﺎ ﻋﺮﺑﻴﺔ وﻋﻘﺎرب ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ودﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬

‫ﺗﻀﻔﻲ اﻟﻤﻜﻮﻧﺎت واﻟﺘﺸﻄﻴﺒﺎت ا ﻧﻴﻘﺔ ﻟﻤﺴﺔ ﻧﻬﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﻤﺎل اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ أن ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ‬

‫اﻟﺮﻗﻢ ‪ ٦‬ﻋﺠﻠﺔ اﻟﺘﻮازن ﻓﻲ ﻗﻠﺐ آﻟﻴﺔ ‪ P-391‬اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﺎﻏﻞ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ‪ .‬وﺗﻜﺘﻤﻞ ﻫﺬه‬

‫ﺗﺘﻘﻦ ﺗﺄﺛﻴﺮات اﻟﺸﻔﺎﻓﻴﺔ ﻫﺬه ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﺎﺣﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﺣﻴﺚ أﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﻤﺜﻞ اﻟﺴﻤﺔ اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﻴﺔ‬

‫اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻴﺪات ﺑﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ First Class Open Heart‬اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ‬

‫ﻟﻠﻤﻔﻬﻮم وراء ﺗﺸﻜﻴﻼت ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮدﻳﻞ ﺗﻢ ﺗﺮﻛﻴﺐ اﻟﺘﻮرﺑﻴﻦ ا ﻟﻮﻣﻨﻴﻮم ﻣﺒﺎﺷﺮة‬

‫واﻟﺘﻲ ﻳﺒﻠﻎ ﻗﻄﺮ ﻏﻼﻓﻬﺎ ‪ ٤٢،٥‬ﻣﻠﻢ وﻫﻲ ﺑﺮأﻳﻲ‪ ،‬أﺟﻤﻞ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻌﺼﻢ اﻟﺮﺟﺎل واﻟﺴﻴﺪات‬

‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎء اﻟﺴﻔﻠﻴﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﻤﻔﺘﻮﺣﺔ ﺣﺘﻰ ﻻ ﺗﻌﻴﻖ رؤﻳﺔ ﻣﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺪاﺧﻞ‪ .‬وﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺪوران ﺑﻜﺎﻣﻞ ﺳﺮﻋﺘﻬﺎ‬

‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﺪ ﺳﻮاء!‬

‫ﺗﻈﻬﺮ ﺗﺮﻛﻴﺒﺔ اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﺴﻤﺎوﻳﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﻛﻞ ﻓﺘﺤﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻓﺘﺤﺎﺗﻬﺎ‪ .‬ﻟﻢ ﻳﻜﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒﻞ‬ ‫ﺑﺎ‪Ü‬ﻣﻜﺎن ﻗﻂ اﻻﺳﺘﻤﺘﺎع ﺑﺤﺮﻛﺎت ﻫﻴﻜﻠﻴﺔ ﺑﻤﺜﻞ ﻫﺬا ا ﺳﻠﻮب اﻟﻔﺎﺗﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﻮدﻳﻞ ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻜﺎﻟﻴﺘﻮن اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ‬

‫ﻳﺒﻠﻎ ﻗﻄﺮ ﻋﻠﺒﺔ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﺸﻜﻴﻠﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ‪ 44‬ﻣﻠﻢ وﺗﺘﻮﻓﺮ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺼﻠﺐ ﺑﺒﻄﺎﻧﺔ اﻟـ ‪ PVD‬اﻟﺴﻮداء‪،‬‬

‫ﻗﺎﻣﺖ ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳﺘﺠﺎوز ﻋﻤﺮﻫﺎ اﻟـ ‪ 200‬ﻋﺎم‪ ،‬ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺰج ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻜﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ واﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻤﺎت‬

‫أو اﻟﻤﺰودة ﺑﻄﺎرة اﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﻮردي ‪ .4N‬ﺗﻀﻤﻦ ﺣﻠﻘﺔ اﻟﻄﺎرة اﻟﺪاﺧﻠﻴﺔ أﻓﻀﻞ وﺿﻮح ﻟﻠﻘﺮاءة‬

‫اﻟﻌﺼﺮﻳﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل إﺻﺪار ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻜﺎﻟﻴﺘﻮن اﻟﺬي ﺳﻴﺘﺄﻟﻖ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻌﺎم ﺧﻼل ﻣﻌﺮض اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‬

‫ﺑﻔﻀﻞ ا رﻗﺎم اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ وﺷﺎرات اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻀﻴﺌﺔ‪ .‬ﺗﻢ ﺗﺒﻄﻴﻦ ﻋﻘﺮﺑﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت واﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ‬

‫واﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺴﺮي »ﺑﺎزل ورﻟﺪ ‪ «2015‬وﺗﺤﺮص ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻮاﻛﺒﺔ اﻟﻌﺼﺮ وﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‬

‫ﺑﺴﻮﺑﺮﻟﻮﻣﻴﻨﻮﻓﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻳﺒﺮز ﻋﻘﺮب اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ ا ﺣﻤﺮ ﺑﻮﺿﻮح ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﻧﻔﺴﻪ ﺗﻘﺪﻳﺮ ﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪﻫﺎ اﻟﻐﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﺎﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﻮدة‪ .‬ﺗﻤﺰج اﻟﻌﻼﻣﺔ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺴﺮﻳﺔ‬

‫ﺗﻢ ﺗﺰوﻳﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻓﻲ ﺗﺸﻜﻴﻠﺔ »ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻜﺎﻟﻴﺘﻮن« ﺑﺄﺣﺰﻣﺔ ﺳﻮداء ﻣﺒﺘﻜﺮة ﺛﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺎدة‪:‬‬

‫ﺧﺒﺮاﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﻠﻤﺤﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺎﻟﻴﺎت اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮة ﻓﻲ ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ ﺗﺸﻜﻴﻠﺔ »ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻜﺎﻟﻴﺘﻮن«‪ .‬و ول‬

‫اﻟﺠﻠﺪ اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻲ ﺑﻨﻮاة اﻟﺒﻮﻟﺮﻳﺜﺎن ﻟﻀﻤﺎن اﻟﻤﻬﺎﻳﺄة واﻟﺸﻌﻮر ﺑﺎﻟﺮاﺣﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻌﺼﻢ‪ ،‬أو ﻣﻄﺎط‬

‫ﻣﺮة ﻋﻠﻰ ا‪Ü‬ﻃﻼق ﺗﺠﻤﻊ اﻟﺪار ﺑﻴﻦ ﺣﺮﻛﺔ ﻫﻴﻜﻠﻴﺔ وﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ‪ ،‬وﻣﻦ ﺛﻢ ﺗﻌﻴﺪ اﺧﺘﺮاع ﻣﻮدﻳﻠﻬﺎ‬

‫أﺳﻮد ﻟﺸﻜﻞ رﻳﺎﺿﻲ ﺟﺪاً‪ .‬ﻳﻄﺒﻖ »ﺗﻮرﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻜﺎﻟﻴﺘﻮن« ﻟﻤﺤﺔ أﻧﻴﻘﺔ وﻳﺆﻛﺪ ﻋﻠﻰ أﺳﻠﻮﺑﻪ اﻟﺨﺎص‪.‬‬

‫ا ﻳﻘﻮﻧﻲ ﺗﻤﺎﻣ ًﺎ‪ :‬أﻋﻴﺪ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎءات وا ﺑﻌﺎد ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﺸﻬﺪ اﻟﻤﻮاد ﺗﻄﻮرا ﻣﺴﺘﻤﺮا ﺣﻴﺚ‬

‫وﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﺆﻛﺪ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻗﻮاﻋﺪ ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺮاﺳﺨﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻫﻮﻳﺔ اﻟﻌﻼﻣﺔ إﻻ أن ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮدﻳﻞ‬

‫ﺗﺨﻮض ﺑﻴﺮﻳﻠﻴﻪ ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺎ ﺟﺪﻳﺪا ﺑﻔﻀﻞ ﻣﻔﻬﻮﻣﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة‪.‬‬

‫اﻻﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎﺋﻲ ﺑﻼ ﺷﻚ ﻳﻌﺪ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻋﺼﺮﻳﺔ ﺳﻮف ﺗﺠﺬب ﻫﻮاة ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت وﻋﺸﺎق اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ‪.‬‬

‫‪17 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪SPECIAL‬‬

‫ﺧــــﺎص‬

‫ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ Diamond Flower Gold‬ﻣﻦ زﻫﺮة اﻟﻠﻮﺗﺲ‬

‫ﻗﻮة اﻟﻤﺮأة – ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Perrelet‬‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺎﺳﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻧﺎﻧﺴﻲ أوﻟﺴﻮن‬

‫ﺗﺤﺖ إدارة ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‪ ،‬وﻣﺴﻠّﺤﺔ ﺑﺂﻟﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﻌﻬﺎ وﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻴﺪات ﺗﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ‬ ‫ﺗﺨﻂ دار ‪ Perrelet‬ﻃﺮﻳﻘﻬﺎ ﻧﺤﻮ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ ﺣﺎﻣﻠﺔً ﻓﻲ ﺟﻌﺒﺘﺘﻬﺎ ﺧﻄﻄ ًﺎ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﺎﺳﺒﺎت‪،‬‬ ‫وﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺎت ﺳﺎﻋﺎت أﻛﺒﺮ ﺣﺠﻤ ًﺎ – وﻣﻮﻟﻴﺔ أذواق اﻟﻤﺮأة ا وﻟﻮﻳﺔ‪ .‬وﻓﻲ ﺷﻬﺮ دﻳﺴﻤﺒﺮ اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ‪،‬‬ ‫ﺗﻢ ﺗﻌﻴﻴﻦ ﺗﺮﻳﺴﺘﺎن ﺑﻮﻳﺮ دو ﺑﻮﻳﺎن ﻣﺪﻳﺮا ً ﻋﺎﻣ ًﺎ ﻟﻠﺸﺮﻛﺔ‪ ،‬ﻫﻮ اﻟﺬي ﻋﻤﻞ ﻓﻲ ﺷﺮﻛﺎت أﻣﺜﺎل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وﻳﺨﻄﻂ ﺗﺮﻳﺴﺘﺎن ﻟﺘﻤﻜﻴﻦ ﺻﻮرة اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Daniel Roth‬و ‪ Gerald Genta‬و ‪.Breitling‬‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺴﺎﺣﺔ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻤﻴﺔ ﻋﺒﺮ ﺗﻌﺰﻳﺰ ﻗﺪرﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻻﻛﺘﻔﺎء اﻟﺬاﺗﻲ وﺗﻨﻔﻴﺬ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻛﺒﻴﺮة ﻣﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺤﺴﻨﺔ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ واﻟﻌﺼﺮﻳﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻳﻘﻮل ﺗﺮﻳﺴﺘﺎن‪» :‬ﻧﻨﻮي أن ﻧﻌﺰّز إرث ‪ Perrelet‬وﻣﻜﺎﻧﺘﻬﺎ ﻛﺼﺎﻧﻊ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﺒﺮ ﺗﻘﺪﻳﻢ‪ ،‬وﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻮﻗﺖ اﻟﻤﻨﺎﺳﺐ‪ ،‬ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺣﺼﺮﻳﺔ ذاﺗﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻌﺒﺌﺔ ﺗﻘﻮم ﻋﻠﻰ آﻟﻴﺘﻨﺎ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ‪ .‬وﻧﺤﻦ ﻧﻌﺘﺒﺮ دﻋﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ اﻟﻌﻨﺼﺮ ا ﺳﺎﺳﻲ ﻓﻲ ﺗﻄﻮّ رﻧﺎ وﺗﻘﺪﻣﻨﺎ«‪ .‬وﻓﻲ ﻛﻼﻣﻪ‪ ،‬أﺷﺎر دي ﺑﻮﻳﺎن إﻟﻰ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﻀﻢ ﻣﺎرﻛﺎت ﻣﺜﻞ ‪ Soprod‬و ‪ IMM Ineltec‬و ‪ MHVJ‬وﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ ﺷﺮﻛﺎت ﺷﻘﻴﻘﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺷﺮﻛﺎت‬ ‫ﺿﻤﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ‪ Festina‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﻳﻤﻠﻜﻬﺎ ﻣﻴﻐﻴﻞ رودرﻳﻐﻴﺰ ﻣﺎﻟﻚ ‪ .Perrelet‬وﻛﺎﻧﺖ ‪Perrelet‬‬ ‫ﻗﺪ أﻃﻠﻘﺖ آﻟﻴﺔ ‪ Alternance 10 A10‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻔﺘﺮض أن ﺗﺸﻐّ ﻞ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت‬ ‫‪ Perrelet‬ﻛﻠﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﻲ ﺧﻄﻮة ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﺗﻘﺮّب دي ﺑﻮﻳﺎن ﻣﻦ ﺗﺤﻘﻴﻖ أﻫﺪاﻓﻪ‪ .‬وﻳﻘﻮل ﻣﺼﺪر آﺧﺮ‬ ‫ﻛﻞ أﻧﺤﺎء اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻢ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ‪» :‬اﻋﺘﺒﺎرا ً ﻣﻦ ﻳﻨﺎﻳﺮ ‪ ،٢٠١٥‬ﺗﻘﻮم ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻨﺎ ﻛﻠﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻮزّﻋﺔ ﻓﻲ ّ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﻢ‬ ‫آﻟﻴﺎت ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﻊ ﺷﺮﻛﺔ آﻟﻴﺎﺗﻨﺎ ‪ Soprod‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻤﻠﻜﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺎﻣﻞ‪ .‬إﻟﻰ ذﻟﻚ‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﻨﺎﺑﺾ اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻖ واﻟﺬي ﻳﻌﺘﺒﺮ ﺟﺰءا ً أﺳﺎﺳﻴ ًﺎ ﻓﻲ آﻟﻴﺘﻨﺎ‪ ،‬ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒﻞ ﺷﺮﻛﺔ ‪ ASTRAL‬وﻫﻲ‬ ‫ﻼ إﻟﻰ ‪Perrelet‬‬ ‫ﺷﺮﻛﺔ أﺧﺮى ﺿﻤﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺘﻨﺎ وﻧﺤﻦ ﻧﻤﻠﻜﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺎﻣﻞ«‪ .‬وﻳﻀﻴﻒ اﻟﻤﺼﺪر ﻗﺎﺋ ً‬ ‫ﺳﺘﻨﻀﻢ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺎﻟﻲ إﻟﻰ ﻧﺨﺒﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ ﺻﺎﻧﻌﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻤﻮدﻳﺔ ﺑﻜﻞ ﻣﺎ ﻟﻠﻜﻠﻤﺔ‬ ‫ﺗﺼﻤﻢ وﺗﺼﻨﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺎﻣﻞ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺘﻨﺎ‪ ،‬ﻣﻦ اﻟﻐﻼف إﻟﻰ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻌﻨﻰ‪» .‬أﺻﺒﺤﺖ ﻣﻨﺘﺠﺎﺗﻨﺎ اﻟﻴﻮم‬ ‫ا‪Ä‬ﻟﻴﺎت إﻟﻰ ﻋﻨﺎﺻﺮ رﺋﻴﺴﺔ أﺧﺮى«‪.‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 16‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ First Class Lady Open Heart‬ﻟﻠﻤﺮأة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺮﻏﺐ ﺑﻤﻈﻬﺮ أﻧﻴﻖ أﻛﺜﺮ ﻛﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ‬

In 1784, the groundbreaking Pierre Jaquet Droz established Geneva’s first ever watchmaking factory.

Grande Seconde Quantième Ivory Enamel , ref. J007033200 Ivory Grand Feu enamel, double level. 18-carat red gold case.

Self-winding mechanical movement, silicon balance. Power reserve of 68 hours.

Pointer-type date display at 6 o’clock. Diameter 43 mm.

WWW.JAQUET-D ROZ.C OM

‫‪SPECIAL‬‬

‫ﺧـﺎص‬

‫‪Grande Seconde Deadbeat‬‬

‫ﺗﻜــﺮﻳﻢ ﺟﺪﻳـﺪ‬ ‫ﻟﻌﺼــﺮ اﻟﺘﻨﻮﻳـﺮ‬

‫ﺑﻠﻐﺖ آﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﻠﺔ ذروﺗﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﺮن‬ ‫اﻟﺜﺎﻣﻦ ﻋﺸﺮ‪ ،‬وﻫﺎ ﻫﻲ ﺷﺮﻛﺔ ‘ﺟﺎﻛﻴﻪ درو’ ﺗﻜ ّﺮم‬ ‫ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﻣﻊ إﺻﺪار ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﺴﺘﺤﺪث‬ ‫ﻋﻦ اﻟﻨﻤﻮذج اﻟﺒﺎرز‪ ،‬واﻟﻤﺰ ّود ﺑﻌﻴﺎر ﺟﺪﻳﺪ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻫﻲ ﺑﺎﻟﻔﻌﻞ ﺗﺤﻔﺔ ﻣﻤﻴﺰة ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﺎﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﻠﺔ )واﻟﺘﻲ ﺗُﻌﺮف‬ ‫أﻳﻀ ًﺎ ﺑﺘﺴﻤﻴﺔ »‪ («Deadbeat‬ﻫﻲ ﻋﺒﺎرة ﻋﻦ آﻟﻴﺔ دﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﻧﺎدرة ﺟﺪا ً ﺗﻢ إﺑﺘﻜﺎرﻫﺎ ﺧﻼل‬ ‫ﻋﺼﺮ اﻟﺘﻨﻮﻳﺮ‪ ،‬ﻓﻲ وﻗﺖ ﻛﺎن ‘ﺑﻴﺎر ﺟﺎﻛﻴﻪ درو’ ﻳﺘﻨﻘﻞ ﻓﻲ أرﺟﺎء أوروﺑﺎ ﻋﺎرﺿ ًﺎ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻪ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫اﻟﺒﻼط اﻟﻤﻠﻜﻲ ﻓﻲ ﻗﺎرة ﺗﺸﻬﺪ ذروة ﺛﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ ﻛﺒﺮى‪ .‬ﺗﺘﻤﺤﻮر ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﺣﻮل‬ ‫ﺗﻘﺪّ م ﻋﻘﺮب اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ ﺑﻮﺛﺒﺎت ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﻛﻞ ﺛﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻋﻮﺿ ًﺎ ﻋﻦ إﺗﺒﺎع ﻣﺴﺎر ﺧﻄﻲ‪ ،‬اﻻﻣﺮ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻮﻓﺮ‬ ‫ﻗﻴﺎﺳﺎت دﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﻟﻠﻐﺎﻳﺔ أدت ﻓﻲ وﻗﺖ ﻻﺣﻖ إﻟﻰ وﻻدة اﻟﻜﺮوﻧﻮﻏﺮاف‪.‬‬ ‫وﺑﻌﺪ أن ﻏﺎﺑﺖ ﻫﺬه ا¶ﻟﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻃﻲ اﻟﻨﺴﻴﺎن ﻟﻔﺘﺮة ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ‪ ،‬أﻋﺎدت اﻟﻴﻮم ﺷﺮﻛﺔ ‘ﺟﺎﻛﻴﻪ درو’‬ ‫إﻛﺘﺸﺎف ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﻌﺠﺰة اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة وذﻟﻚ ﻓﻲ ﻇﻞ ﺳﻌﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﺻﻞ ﻟﻠﺒﺤﺚ ﻋﻦ ا¸ﻧﺠﺎزات‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺒﻴﺮة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺣﻘﻘﺘﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﺎﺿﻲ‪ ،‬ﻣﺤﺎوﻟﺔ ﺗﻘﺪﻳﻢ ﻧﻤﺎذج ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺟﺪﻳﺪة إﻟﻰ ﻧﺨﺒﺔ ﻣﺨﺘﺎرة‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﺧﺒﺮاء اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﺘﺨﺼﺼﻴﻦ‪ .‬ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻨﻄﻠﻖ‪ ،‬وﻣﻊ ﺗﻄﺒﻴﻖ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻧﻤﺎذج ‪ Grande Seconde‬اﻟﻤﻤﻴﺰة‪ ،‬ﺗﺒﻘﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻌﻼﻣﺔ اﻟﺘﺠﺎرﻳﺔ وﻓﻴﺔ ﻟﻬﻮﻳﺘﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺤﻘﻴﻘﺔ‪ :‬إﺣﺘﺮاﻣﻬﺎ ﻟﻠﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪ‪ ،‬ﺳﻌﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﺪؤوب ﻟﻤﻮاﺟﻬﺔ ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺎت ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‪ ،‬ﺑﺮاﻋﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺎﺋﻘﺔ وإﺳﺘﻌﺪادﻫﺎ ‪ -‬اﻟﺪاﺋﻢ ﻟﺘﺠﺪﻳﺪ إﺑﺘﻜﺎراﺗﻬﺎ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻨﻤﻮذج‪ ،‬ﻋﻤﻞ ﻣﺼﻤﻤﻮ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻌﻼﻣﺔ اﻟﺘﺠﺎرﻳﺔ اﻟﺸﻬﻴﺮة ﺑﻨﺠﻤﺘﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺠﺪﻳﺪ‬ ‫ﻣﻴﻨﺎء ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Grande Seconde‬ﻟﻴﺒﺮز ﻓﻲ وﺳﻄﻪ ﻋﻘﺮب اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﺬي ﻛﺎن ﻳﺘّﺨﺬ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ا¸ﺻﺪار اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺨﻲ ﻣﻮﻗﻌ ًﺎ ﻏﻴﺮ ﻣﺮﻛﺰي‪ ،‬ﻓﺤّ ﻞ ﻣﻜﺎﻧﻪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻨﻤﻮذج اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ ﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺮاﺟﻌﻲ‪ .‬ﻣﻤﺎ ﻻﺷﻚ ﻓﻴﻪ‪ ،‬ﺗﺘﺴﻢ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Grande Seconde Deadbeat‬ﺑﻌﻮاﻣﻠﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺄﻟﻮﻓﺔ واﻟﻤﻔﺎﺟﺌﺔ ﻓﻲ وﻗﺖ واﺣﺪ‪ ،‬ﻓﻬﻲ ﺗﺠﺬب اﻻﻧﻈﺎر ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﺗﺴﻠﺴﻞ اﻻرﻗﺎم‬ ‫واﻟﻌﻘﺎرب »اﻟﻮاﺛﺒﺔ«‪.‬‬ ‫ﻛﺬﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﺗُﺘﻴﺢ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﻟﻠﺸﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﻔﺮﺻﺔ ﻟﺘﻨﻔﻴﺬ إﻧﺠﺎز ﺗﻘﻨﻲ ﻣﺰدوج‪ .‬إﺛﺮ اﻟﺘﺠﺮﺑﺔ‬ ‫اﻻوﻟﻰ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺧﺎﺿﺘﻬﺎ ﻣﻊ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Grande Seconde Quantième Ivory Enamel‬ﻓﻲ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﺎم ‪ ، ٢٠١٤‬ﻳﻌﺎود ﺣﺮﻓﻴﻮ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺼﻨﻊ ‘ﻻﺷﻮ دو ﻓﻮن’ ﻣﺮة ﺟﺪﻳﺪة إﺳﺘﺨﺪام زﻧﺒﺮك‬ ‫ﺗﻮازن ﻣﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﻴﻠﻴﻜﻮن‪ ،‬اﻟﻤﺎدة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻤﻴﺰ ﺑﻌﺪم ﺗﺄﺛﺮﻫﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﻘﻮل اﻟﻤﻐﻨﺎﻃﻴﺴﻴﺔ أو‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺒﺪﻻت ﻓﻲ درﺟﺎت اﻟﺤﺮارة واﻟﻀﻐﻂ‪ ،‬وﺑﺎﻟﺘﺎﻟﻲ ﻓﻬﻲ ﺗﻀﻤﻦ دﻗﺔ إﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺿﺒﻂ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻫﻨﺎ‪ ،‬أدت اﻟﺤﺎﺟﺔ ﻟﻠﺪﻣﺞ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺳﻤﺎت اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﻠﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﺘﻘﻮﻳﻢ واﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت واﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ إﻟﻰ‬ ‫إﺑﺘﻜﺎر ﻋﻴﺎر ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﺗﻤﺎﻣ ًﺎ ﺗﻘﺪّ ﻣﺖ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﺑﻄﻠﺐ ﺗﺴﺠﻴﻞ ﺑﺮاءة إﺧﺘﺮاﻋﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ ذﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﻓﻘﺪ ﺗﻤﻜﻨﺖ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺗﻮﻓﻴﺮ اﻟﻌﻨﺎﺻﺮ اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﻔﻀﻞ اﻟﺨﺒﺮة اﻟﺮاﺋﺪة اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﻤﻴﺰ ﺑﻬﺎ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺳﻮاﺗﺶ ﻓﻲ إﺟﺮاءات ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﻨﺎﻧﻮ )ﻻ ﺳﻴﻤﺎ إﺟﺮاءات ‪ (LIGA‬واﻟﺘﻲ أدت‬ ‫إﻟﻰ إﻧﺘﺎج اﺟﺰاء ﺗﺘﺴﻢ ﺑﺪﻗﺔ ﻋﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﺟﺪا ً‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ﻧﻬﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﻤﻄﺎف‪ ،‬ﺳﺎﻫﻢ إﺧﺘﻴﺎر ﻋﺠﻠﺔ ذات ‪ ١٠‬أﺳﻨﺎن‬ ‫ﻋﻮﺿ ًﺎ ﻋﻦ ‪ ٣٠‬ﺳﻨ ًﺎ واﻟﺘﻲ ﻋﺎدة ﻣﺎ ﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻓﻲ ﺳﻤﺔ اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﻠﺔ‪ ،‬ﺑﺎ¸ﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ إﻋﺘﻤﺎد‬ ‫ﺣﺠﻢ ﻛﺒﻴﺮ ‪Ó‬ﺟﺰاء ﻣﻴﺰان اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﻲ ﺗﺤﻮﻳﻞ آﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﻠﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻋﺮض ﻣﺬﻫﻞ‬ ‫ﻳﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﺄﻧﺎﻗﺔ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﻛﻤﺎ وﻋﺒﻘﺮﻳﺔ ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﻣﻤﻴﺰة‪ .‬إن ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Grande Seconde‬‬ ‫‪ Deadbeat‬ﺳﻮف ﺗﺴﺘﻘﻄﺐ ﻫﻮاة اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺪﻗﺔ‪.‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 18‬‬

‫‪FINESSE‬‬ ‫رقــة‬

‫الجوائز كلها لساعات‬ ‫السيدات‬ ‫من نانسي أولسون‬

‫جائزة جنيف الكبرى للساعات‬ ‫الفاخرة (‪ )GPHG‬للعام ‪ 2014‬عجّ ت‬ ‫بالساعات‬

‫الخاصة‬

‫بالسيدات‪،‬‬

‫وخصوص ًا في فئات ‪Ladies‬‬

‫‪Ladies’ ،High-Mechanical‬‬ ‫‪ ،Jewellery‬و ‪.Public Prize‬‬

‫وفي وقت كل الساعات التي كانت اختيرت للتسابق كانت رائعة‪ ،‬ولكن‬ ‫تلك التي حصدت الجوائز ال شك انها سحرت لجنة الحكم بمنبعها‬ ‫وآلياتها وبنائها‪ ،‬وكل واحدة تشهد على المكانة التي وصلت اليها‬ ‫الساعات الخاصة بالسيدات في فن صناعة الساعات‪.‬‬

‫ساعة ‪Blancpain Women Off-Centered Hour‬‬

‫الفائز بجائزة ‪Ladies: Blancpain‬‬ ‫نالت ساعة ‪ Blancpain Women Off-Centered Hour‬جائزة‬ ‫فئة السيدات‪ .‬متألقة بـ‪ 150‬ماسة على الغالف والمينا‪ ،‬هذه الساعة‬ ‫المصنوعة من الذهب األحمر والتي يبلغ قطرها ‪ 36.8‬ملم مزدانة بمينا‬ ‫من عرق اللؤلؤ األبيض مع‪ -‬وبحسب ما يشهد اسمها‪ -‬عقرب ساعات‬ ‫غير مركزي ومينا ثانوية خاصة بالدقائق عند موضع الساعة ‪ 12‬وأربعة‬ ‫ثمة مؤشر تراجعي‪ .‬وفي الداخل‬ ‫أرقام عربية‪ .‬وعند موضع الساعة ‪ّ 6‬‬ ‫آلية ‪ ،2663SR‬الذاتية التعبئة مع ‪ 28‬ألف ذبذبة في الساعة‪ .‬أما بلورة‬ ‫الصفير في الغالف الخلفي فتسمح بمشاهدة الصف األمامي من اآللية‬ ‫مع تشطيبات الكوت دو جنيف والوزن المتأرجح على شكل زهرة ذات‬ ‫خمسة بتالت‪ .‬وتأتي هذه الساعة بحزام من جلد النعامة األبيض‪.‬‬ ‫جائززة الجمهور لـ ‪Breguet‬‬ ‫إن ساعة ‪ Classique Dame‬تكريم وتحية لتاريخ ‪ Breguet‬الحافل‬ ‫بصناعة ساعات رائعة للسيدات‪ ،‬ونالت هذه الساعة جائزة ‪GPHG‬‬ ‫‪ ،Public Prize‬وهذه الجائزة تقوم او ًال على تصويت الجمهور سواء‬ ‫في المعارض الدولية التي تسبق حفل توزيع الجوائز أو عبر االنترنت على‬ ‫موقع ‪ GPHG‬أو على مواقع شريكة‪ .‬والساعة الرابحة قطرها ‪33.5‬‬ ‫ملم مصنوعة من الذهب األبيض ومرصعة بحبيبات الماس عند‬ ‫موضع الزجاجة والعروات‪ ،‬إنها تدريب متميز في الكالسيكية‪ .‬وفي المينا‬ ‫المتحركة أعداد رومانية ونافدة تاريخ عند موضع الساعة ‪ ، 3‬ومؤشر‬ ‫بعدد وحيد وعقارب ‪ Breguet‬المزرقة‪ ،‬واشياء أخرى للحفاظ على سر‬ ‫بصمة الماركة‪ .‬الغالف‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 20‬‬

‫ساعة ‪ Classique Dame‬من ‪Breguet‬‬

‫‪FINESSE‬‬ ‫رقــة‬

‫ساعة ‪ Margot‬من ‪Christophe Claret‬‬

‫ساعة من ‪ Christophe Claret‬وجائزة ‪Ladies High-Mech‬‬ ‫فازت ساعة ‪ Margot‬من ‪ Christophe Claret‬بالمرتبة األولى في‬ ‫فئة ساعات السيدات العالية التقنية مع مظهرها الرومانسي وتحيتها‬ ‫القوية إلى صناعة الساعات المعقدة‪ .‬إنها تعقيد للسيدات واحتفاء‬ ‫فعلي‪ .‬ضغط بسيط على الزر الدافع عند موضع الساعة ‪ 2‬يعيد الساعة‬ ‫يتم فيها الضغط على الزر تتساقط بتلة أو اثنتين‬ ‫كل مرة ّ‬ ‫إلى الحياة‪ ،‬في ّ‬ ‫من زهرة األقحوان وتختفي تحت المينا‪ ،‬طارحة السؤال العتيق المتجدد‬ ‫والدائم ‪ :‬يحبني‪ ،‬ال يحبني‪ .‬ويأتي الجواب بأحرف مخطوطة عند موضع‬ ‫الساعة ‪ 4‬قليالً‪ ،‬كثيراً‪ ،‬بشغف‪ ،‬بجنون‪ ،‬ال يحبني إطالقاً‪ .‬وتضفي قبة‬ ‫بلورية مزيدا ً من السحر على هذه القطعة اآلخاذة وذلك بفضل اآللية‬ ‫الميكانيكية الذاتية التعبئة وتتوافر ساعة ‪ Margot‬الذهبية التي يبلغ‬ ‫قطرها ‪ 42.5‬ملم بنسخة محدودة من ‪ 20‬قطعة‪.‬‬ ‫جائزة ‪ Ladies Jewellery‬لـ ‪Bulgari‬‬ ‫تحية للعصر الذهبي للنجمات األسطوريات للشاشة الفضية‪ ،‬ربحت‬ ‫ساعة ‪ Diva‬جائزة ‪ ،Ladies Jewellery‬مع اعترافها الملموس الرائع‬ ‫بعصر الدولتشي فيتا التي كانت خاللها دار بلغاري وعالم السينما ال‬ ‫يفترقان‪ .‬مجموعة ‪ Diva‬التي أطلقت في العام ‪ ،2013‬مزدانة بالذهب‬ ‫األبيض والماس والزمرد‪ .‬أن ساعة الكوراتز التي يبلغ قطرها ‪ 39‬ملم‬ ‫تشكل تحية للمجوهرات الفاخرة التي اشتهرت بها الماركة‪ ،‬واستقت‬ ‫وحيها من النجمات المرموقات المعاصرات‪ .‬في هذه الساعة تصميم‬ ‫وحدات أنماط هندسية حاضر في مجموعة مجوهرات بولغاري التي‬ ‫ساعة ‪ Diva‬من ‪Bulgari‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 22‬‬

‫تحمل نفس اسم الساعة‪ .‬ومن وظائفها العقارب والدقائق‪.‬‬

‫‪FINESSE‬‬ ‫رقــة‬

‫الطبيعة في حركة‬ ‫على إيقاﻉ الوقت‬ ‫احتفلت شوميﻪ بالطبيعة في حركة ألكثر من مئتي عام‪ .‬واليوم‬ ‫تستكشف الدار عددا ً كبيرا ً من مزايا الرقة لزهرة األرطاسيا‪ ،‬في ابتكا ا رت‬ ‫تمتد من أرقى المجوهرات إلى أرقى الساعات‪.‬‬ ‫وفي سنة ‪ ، 2015‬تقدم شوميﻪ على أرض الواقع تفسيرا ً ح ّي ًا للوقت‪ ،‬مع ابتكار معقّ د‬

‫ظهوره إلى الحياة في عرض رائع من النحت‪ ،‬يحتفل الديكور بفنون الصائغين‪ ،‬معلّمي‬

‫جديد‪ .‬يعطي هذا العمل التقني االستثنائي الحياة إلى باقات من الذهب واألحجار الكريمة‪.‬‬

‫النقﺶ‪ ،‬منظمي األحجار الكريمة‪ ،‬نحاتي وصاقلي األحجار الكريمة‪ .‬تتفتح زهرتا أرطاسيا‪،‬‬

‫بفضل الكاليبر الجديد والحصري‪ ،‬تستبدل زهور األرطاسيا من أشكال وأحجام مختلفة‬

‫متميزتان بحركتهما األنيقة‪ ،‬وتحتالن وسط المسرﺡ؛ يؤدي طقم األلماس للزهرة‬

‫العقارب التقليدية‪ .‬وفي هذا اﻹبداﻉ‪ ،‬تلتقي الطبيعة مع الحركة والوقت للكشف عن‬

‫المركزية دورات راقصة وهو يشير إلى الساعات مع بتلة من الياقوت الزهري‪ .‬الزهرة‬

‫تركيبة من الزهور تحركها زهرتان تنظمان إيقاﻉ الساعات والدقائق‪ .‬بالتالي‪ ،‬يبرز الوقت‬

‫عال حول األولى على إيقاﻉ الدقائق‪.‬‬ ‫الثانية‪ ،‬المزينة بأم الﻶلﺊ في لون زهري‪ ،‬تتحرﻙ برقيّ ﹴ‬

‫في رقصة رشيقة‪ ،‬رقصة باليﻪ من الزهور المذهلة‪ .‬تلعب أربع ساعات ثمينة دورهن‬

‫بالتالي‪ ،‬يتم الكشف عن الوقت في أبهة ساحرة‪ ،‬تعززه حركة ميكانيكية جديدة ذات‬

‫في هذا األداء بأناقة عالية وطابع عصري‪ .‬تتفتح باقات من األرطاسيا في قلب ما يشبﻪ‬

‫تدوير ذاتي‪ ،‬وهي ثمرة أرقى تقاليد صناعة الساعات السويسرية‪.‬‬

‫سوا را ً من أم الﻶلﺊ‪ .‬زيﱢنت أوراق وتيجان الزهور باأللماس‪ ،‬رسم صغير جداً‪ ،‬حفر بأنماط‬

‫لهذه المقاربة الهندسية‪ ،‬يزيّن شكل زهرة األرطاسيا لوحة مربعات من أم الﻶلﺊ‪.‬‬

‫متقاطعة ونقﺶ‪ .‬تشير عقارب مخرﱠمة برقة عالية إلى الساعات والدقائق‪ .‬ويتحول وجﻪ‬

‫تتمتع المربعات بلمسة من الجمال يضفيها الحفر أو النقﺶ بأنماط متقاطعة مع‬

‫الساعة إلى مشهد رائع حيﺚ يتم الكشف عن المهارات الفنية وجمال الحرفية اليدوية‬

‫تخريم على شكل زهور في طيف من الديكور بلمسات بارزة هبية‪.‬‬

‫في أدق التفاصيل للتعبير عن شاعرية الوقت‪ .‬يجمع التعقيد لساعة ‪Hortensia‬‬

‫تكشف باقة من زهور األرطاسيا عن تفاصيل دقيقة لبتالتهان‪ ،‬يعززها سوار من أم‬

‫الجديدة من شوميﻪ معرفة وخبرة العمل بالمجوهرات والساعات‪ ،‬لتنظيم رقصة‬

‫الﻶلﺊ البيضاء الطبيعية‪ .‬تسطع الزهور المنظمة في قلب تاﺝ من األلماس‪ ،‬بألوان‬

‫للطبيعة مع الوقت‪ :‬تذهب الداللة إلى الوقت إلى أبعد من عقارب تقليدية لتعرض رقصة‬

‫متألقة من األبيض أو األزرق‪ .‬تعطي هالة برّاقة ودقيقة من األلماس الحياة إلى باقة‬

‫باليﻪ استثنائية ورائعة من زهور األرطاسيا على صندوق من الذهب األبيض للساعة‪.‬‬

‫محدبة من أم الﻶلﺊ الطبيعية‪ .‬وباستخدام تقنية الترصيع‪ ،‬يحيط بزهرة أرطاسيا‬

‫على وجﻪ الساعة‪ ،‬تكشف السينوغرافيا عن تحية إجالل أنيقة ومؤثرة للطبيعة‪ :‬مع‬

‫مركزية تاجان من الزهور‪ ،‬اللذان يسلطان الضوء على التفاصيل المذهلة لبتالتها‪.‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 24‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﺷﻮﺑﺎرد اﻟﺴﺮﻳﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات‬ ‫اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ ‪.Hedgehog‬‬

‫ﻛﺎروﻟﻴﻦ ﺷﻮﻓﻴﻠﻲ اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﺔ اﻟﻤﺸﺎرﻛﺔ ﻟﺪار ﺷﻮﺑﺎرد واﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮة اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪.‬‬

‫ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﺑﻤﺮﻛﺰ ﺗﺪرﻳﺐ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻘﺮﻫﺎ‪ ،‬ﻣﻜﺮس ﻟﻠﺤﻔﺎظ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺤﺮف‪ ،‬ﺣﻴﺚ ﻳﺘﻢ ﺗﺪرﻳﺐ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﺪرﺑﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒﻞ رواد ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﻬﻦ‪ ،‬وذﻟﻚ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﻣﺴﺘﻤﺮ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ورﺷﺔ ﻋﻤﻞ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر‪،‬‬ ‫ﺗﻤﺎرس أﻛﺜﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺛﻼﺛﻴﻦ ﺣﺮﻓﺔ ﺗﺤﺖ ﺳﻘﻒ واﺣﺪ‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﻘﻄﻌﺔ اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ ا ﺣﺪث ﻣﻦ ﻣﺸﺎﻏﻞ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻫﻲ ‪،L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Goat‬‬ ‫وﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺗﺸﻜﻞ ﺗﻜﺮﻳﻤ ًﺎ ﻟﻠﺜﻘﺎﻓﺔ ا‪Ù‬ﺳﻴﻮﻳﺔ واﺣﺘﻔﺎء ﺑﺎﻟﻌﺎم اﻟﺼﻴﻨﻲ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ‪ ،‬ﻋﺎم اﻟﻤﺎﻋﺰ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻛﺠﺰء ﻣﻦ ﺗﻘﻠﻴﺪ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻓﻲ اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎل ﺑﻜﻞ دورة ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺘﻘﻮﻳﻢ اﻟﺼﻴﻨﻲ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ اﻧﻬﺎ أﻳﻀ ًﺎ‬ ‫اﻻﺣﺪث ﻓﻲ ﺳﻠﺴﻠﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﻊ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﺑﺎﺳﺘﺨﺪام اﻟﻨﻤﻮذج اﻟﻴﺎﺑﺎﻧﻲ اﻟﻘﺪﻳﻢ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺼﻘﻞ اﻟﻤﻌﺮوف ﺑﺎﺳﻢ ‪ .Urushi‬واﻟﻮرﻧﻴﺶ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﻣﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻧﺴﻎ ﺷﺠﺮة ‪ ،Urushi‬واﻟﻤﻌﺮوﻓﺔ ﺑﺎﺳﻢ »ﺷﺠﺮة اﻟﻮرﻧﻴﺶ« أو »ﺷﺠﺮة اﻟﻮرﻧﻴﺶ اﻟﻴﺎﺑﺎﻧﻴﺔ«‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﻓﺮة ﻓﻲ اﻟﻴﺎﺑﺎن واﻟﺼﻴﻦ‪ .‬ﻳﺘﻢ ﺣﺼﺎد اﻟﺮاﺗﻨﺞ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﺮة واﺣﺪة ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎم ﺑﻜﻤﻴﺎت‬ ‫ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﻟﻠﻐﺎﻳﺔ‪ ،‬وﻳﺴﺘﻐﺮق ﻋﻼج ﻫﺬا اﻟﺮاﺗﻨﺞ ﻣﻦ ﺛﻼﺛﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺧﻤﺴﺔ أﻋﻮام ﻟﻜﻲ ﻳﺼﺒﺢ ورﻧﻴﺶ‬ ‫ﺻﻠﺐ ﻣﻊ ﻛﺜﺎﻗﺔ ﻛﻜﺜﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﻌﺴﻞ‪ .‬وﺗﺴﻤﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﺑـ ‪ ، Maki-e‬وﻳﺸﻤﻞ رش اﻟﻮرﻧﻴﺶ‬ ‫ﻣﻊ ﻏﺒﺎر اﻟﺬﻫﺐ ﻣﻦ أﺟﻞ إﺑﺘﻜﺎر ﻧﻤﻂ ﻣﺤﺪد أو إﺑﺮازه أو ﺗﻌﺰﻳﺰه‪ .‬ﻳﺘﻢ وﺿﻊ اﻟﻐﺒﺎر اﻟﺜﻤﻴﻦ ﻋﻦ‬ ‫ﺧﻂ اﻟﺨﻄﻮط اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﺟﺪا ً ﺑﺎﺳﺘﺨﺪام أﻧﺎﺑﻴﺐ اﻟﺨﻴﺰران أو ﻓﺮاﺷﻲ ﺷﻌﺮ ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﺧﺸﻨﺔ‬ ‫ﻃﺮﻳﻖ ّ‬ ‫وﻃﺒﻴﻌﻴﻴﺔ‪ .‬إﻧﻪ ﻓﻦ ﻳﺘﻄﻠﺐ ﻣﻬﺎرة ودرﺟﺔ ﻣﺘﻘﺪﻣﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﻨﺎﻳﺔ اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ اﻟﻤﻜﺘﺴﺒﺔ ﻓﻘﻂ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒﻞ ﺣﻔﻨﺔ ﻣﻦ أﺳﻴﺎد اﻟﻄﻼء ﺑﺎﻟـ ‪ Urushi‬وﺑﻌﺪ أﻋﻮام ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻤﺎرﺳﺔ اﻟﺪؤوﺑﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺸﻬﺪ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﻳﺼﻮر ﻣﻌﺰاة ﻫﺎدﺋﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗﻘﻒ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺴﻜﺒﺔ ﻣﻦ ا زﻫﺎر‪ ،‬وﺗﺤﺖ ﻏﻴﻮم‬ ‫ﻣﻠﻮﻧﺔ وﻣﻨﻤﻨﻤﺔ‪ ،‬ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﻤﻨﺢ ﺷﻌﻮرا ً ﺑﺎﻟﻔﺮح واﻟﻄﻤﺄﻧﻴﻨﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﻤﺜﻞ ﺗﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳ ًﺎ ﻓﻲ ا ﺑﺮاج‬ ‫اﻟﺼﻴﻨﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﺈن اﻟﻤﺎﻋﺰ ﻣﺴﺎﻟﻢ‪ ،‬وداﺋﻤ ًﺎ ﺳﺮﻳﻊ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻌﺎرﺿﺔ اﻟﻈﻠﻢ‪ ،‬إذ ﻻ ﻳﻤﻜﻨﻪ أﺑﺪا ً ﺗﺤﻤﻠﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺻﺎﺣﺐ ﺷﺨﺼﻴﺔ ﺧﻼﻗﺔ ﺑﻌﻴﺪة ﻋﻦ ﺷﺨﺼﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺤﺎرب‪ ،‬ﻳﺘﻮﺟﻪ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻨﺘﻤﻲ إﻟﻰ ﺑﺮج اﻟﻤﺎﻋﺰ‬ ‫إﻟﻰ اﻟﻔﻦ ‪å‬ﺑﺮاز وﺟﻬﺔ ﻧﻈﺮه‪ .‬إﻧﻪ ﺷﺨﺺ ﻣﺴﺘﺮخٍ وﺳﺨﻲ ﺑﻄﺒﻴﻌﺘﻪ‪ ،‬وﻳﻤﺘﻠﻚ ﻓﻀﺎﺋﻞ ﻣﻬﺪﺋﺔ‬ ‫واﺣﺴﺎس ﺑﺎﻟﻮﺋﺎم واﻟﺘﻨﺎﻏﻢ ﻣﺮﺗﺒﻂ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﻴﻢ اﻟﻤﺘﻌﻠﻘﺔ ا رض وﺑﺎﻟﻌﺎﺋﻠﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Happy Sport 30mm Automatic‬ﺧﻤﺲ‬ ‫ﻣﺎﺳﺔ ﻣﺘﺤﺮﻛﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺑﻠﻮرﺗﻲ ﺻﻔﻴﺮ ﻓﻮق اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪.‬‬

‫ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Goat‬آﻟﻴﺔ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ا وﺗﻮﻣﺎﺗﻴﻜﻴﺔ ‪Caliber‬‬ ‫‪ L.U.C 96.17-L‬اﻟﻈﺎﻫﺮة ﻟﻠﻌﻴﺎن ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل اﻟﻐﻼف اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻲ‪ .‬واﻟﻐﻼف ﻣﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ‬ ‫ا ﺑﻴﺾ أو اﻟﺰﻫﺮي‪ ،‬واﻟﺤﺰام ﻣﻦ ﺟﻠﺪ اﻟﺘﻤﺴﺎح ﻣﻊ ﺑﻄﺎﻧﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺟﻠﺪ ﻋﺠﻞ ‪ .Alsavel‬ﻳﺘﻢ‬ ‫ﺗﺴﻠﻴﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﻠﺒﺔ ﻋﺮض ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﻣﺰﻳﻨﺔ أﻳﻀ ًﺎ وﻓﻘ ًﺎ ﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ ‪ ،Maki-e‬ﺳﻮداء ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺎرج‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺜﻤﻦ ﻫﻮ اﻟﺮﻣﺰ اﻟﺸﺮﻗﻲ ﻟﻠﻤﺮح‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﻣﺜﻤﻦ‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وﻣﺰﻳﻨﺔ ﺑﻮرﻧﻴﺶ ‪ Urushi‬ﻓﻲ اﻟﺪاﺧﻞ‪ .‬وﺷﻜﻠﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﻳﺘﻢ ﺗﻨﻔﻴﺬ اﻟﺤﺮف اﻟﻤﺸﺎرﻛﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﻊ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ L.U.C‬ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ داﺧﻞ ﻣﺸﺎﻏﻞ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر‪.‬‬

‫وﺗﺸﻤﻞ اﻟﻌﻤﻠﻴﺎت اﻟﻤﻌﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ ا‪Ù‬ﻟﻴﺔ‪ ،‬وﺻﺐ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ‪ ،‬واﻻﻧﺘﻬﺎء ﻣﻦ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻤﻨﺘﺞ‪،‬‬ ‫وﺧﺘﻢ ا ﻏﻠﻔﺔ وﺗﺼﻨﻴﻌﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﺻﻨﻊ ﻣﻜﻮﻧﺎت ا‪Ù‬ﻟﻴﺔ وا ﺳﺎور اﻟﻤﻌﺪﻧﻴﺔ‪ ،‬واﻟﺘﺰﻳﻴﻦ اﻟﻴﺪوي‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺮﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪي‪ ،‬وﻣﻌﺎﻟﺠﺎت ا ﺳﻄﺢ‪ ،‬واﻟﺘﻠﻤﻴﻊ‪ ،‬واﻟﺘﺠﻤﻴﻊ‪ ،‬وﻣﺮاﻗﺒﺔ اﻟﺠﻮدة‪.‬‬

‫‪27 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪COVER STORY‬‬ ‫ﻗﺼﺔ اﻟﻐﻼف‬

‫ﺑﺮاﻋـﺔ ‪Chopard‬‬

‫اﻟﻔﻨﻴـــﺔ‬

‫ﺗﻜﺸﻒ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺎت ﺷﻮﺑﺎرد‬ ‫اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﻋﻦ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪﻗﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﺔ وﻋﻦ ﻟﻤﺴﺔ ﺣﺎﻟﻤﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻛﺎرول ﺑﻴﺴﻠﻴﺮ‬

‫ﻣﻨﺬ أﻋﺎدت دار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﺗﺠﺪﻳﺪ ﺟﺬورﻫﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎم ‪ ،١٩٩٧‬ﻛﺎن ﺗﻄﻮر ﺣﺪ‬

‫وﺣﻲ‬

‫ﻣﺸﺎﻏﻞ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا ا ﻛﺜﺮ إﺛﺎرة ﻟ ﻋﺠﺎب ﻣﻊ أﺣﺪث اﻟﺘﺠﻬﻴﺰات ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻌﺪات اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﻌﺎﻣﻠﺔ‬

‫ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺎت ﻣﻬﻤﺔ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ ﺗﻮاﻗﻴﻊ اﺳﻤﺎء‬ ‫ﱢ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻣﺘﺤﻒ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ‪ L.U.CEUM‬ﻓﻲ ﻓﻠﻮرﻳﻴﻪ ﺛﻼث‬

‫ﺟﻨﺒ ًﺎ إﻟﻰ ﺟﻨﺐ ﻣﻊ ﻣﻨﺎﺿﺪ اﻟﺮواد ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﻴﻦ‪ .‬إن ﻗﺪرات ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻓﺮﻳﺪة ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﻮاﻫﺮ‪ -‬ﺗﺴﺘﺜﻤﺮ‬

‫ﻣﺮﻣﻮﻗﺔ ﻛـ ﺑﺮﺗﻬﻮد وﺑﻠﻮﻧﺪو‪ .‬اﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺼﺪر وﺣﻲ ﻟﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ ،L.U.C‬أﻣﺎ دﻗﺘﻬﺎ وﺳﻬﻮﻟﺔ‬

‫اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻗﺪم اﻟﻤﺴﺎواة ﻓﻲ اﻧﺘﺎج اﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ – إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺳﻴﻄﺮﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ‬

‫ﻗﺮاءﺗﻬﺎ وﻣﺴﺘﻮاﻫﺎ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻲ إﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺘﺎﻧﺘﻬﺎ واﺳﺘﻤﺮارﻳﺘﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺈﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﺸﻜّ ﻞ ﻣﺒﺎدئ ﻗﻴّﻤﺔ‬

‫ﻋﻠﻢ ﻗﻴﺎس اﻟﺰﻣﻦ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ رﻓﻴﻊ‪.‬‬

‫ﻳﺤﺘﺬى ﺑﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻟﻘﺪ وﺿﻌﺖ دار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر أﻳﻀ ًﺎ ﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺎن ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺴﻴﺪات‬

‫ان اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﻟﻠﺸﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺸﻒ اﻟﻨﻘﺎب ﻋﻨﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺷﻬﺮ ﻣﺎرس ﻓﻲ ﻣﻌﺮض ﺑﺎزل‬

‫‪ Happy Sport‬اﻟﺘﻲ أﻃﻠﻘﺖ اﻟﻌﺎم ‪ ،١٩٩٣‬أﺻﺒﺤﺖ ﻧﻤﻮذﺟ ًﺎ ﻟﺼﻨﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺜﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ورﻟﺪ‪ ،‬ﺗﻌﻜﺲ اﻟﺘﺰام اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺔ اﻟﻘﻮي ﺑﺎﻟﺒﺮاﻋﺔ اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ وﺑﻜﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﻗﻴﺎس اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪ .‬وذﻟﻚ‬

‫ﺻﻤﻤﺘﻬﺎ ﻛﺎروﻟﻴﻦ ﺷﻮﻓﻴﻠﻲ اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﺔ اﻟﺸﺮﻳﻜﺔ ﻟﺪار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر واﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮة اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‪ ،‬واﻧﻄﻠﻘﺖ‬

‫ﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﺟﻠﻲ ﻓﻲ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة‪ .‬إن ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ اﻟﺘﺮﺟﻤﺔ‬

‫ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﺠﻮﻫﺮات ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻛﺎروﻟﻴﻦ اﺑﺘﻜﺮﺗﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺳﺒﻌﻴﻨﻴﺎت‬

‫اﻟﺤﺪﻳﺜﺔ ﻟﺘﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ اﻟﺪﻗﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻨﻈﻢ اﻟﻀﺨﻤﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻛﻤﺮﺟﻊ ﻟﻠﻮﻗﺖ‬

‫وﺳﻤﺘﻬﺎ ‪ Happy Diamonds‬وﻓﻴﻬﺎ اﻟﺤﺠﺎرة اﻟﻜﺮﻳﻤﺔ ﺗﺮﻗﺺ ﺑﺤﺮﻳﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒﻞ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎﺗﻴﻴﻦ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻛﺎﻧﻮا ﻳﺮﻳﺪون ﺿﺒﻂ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻌﺼﻢ‪ .‬وﻟﺬا وﻟﻜﻲ‬

‫ﺑﻠﻮرات اﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ‪.‬‬

‫ﺗﻢ ﺗﻔﺮﻳﻖ ﻋﻘﺎرب اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت واﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ واﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ‬ ‫ﻳﻜﻮن اﻟﻮﺿﻮح اﻟﺘﺎم ﻇﺎﻫﺮا ً ﻟﻀﺒﺎط اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪ّ ،‬‬

‫ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﻨﺔ اﻃﻠﻘﺖ دار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Happy Sport 30mm Automatic‬ﻣﻊ ﻏﻼف اﻧﻴﻖ‬

‫وﺟﻌﻞ ﻛﻞ ﻋﻘﺮب ﻓﻲ ﺟﻬﺔ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺟﻬﺎت اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ .‬وﻣﺒﺪأ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺘﺮﺗﻴﺐ ﻣﻌﺮوف ﻣﻨﺬ ذﻟﻚ‬

‫ذات ﺣﺠﻢ أﺻﻐﺮ‪ ،‬ﻣﻊ آﻟﻴﺔ أوﺗﻮﻣﺎﺗﻴﻜﻴﺔ وﻃﺒﻌ ًﺎ ﻣﻊ اﻟﻤﺎﺳﺎت اﻟﻤﺘﺮاﻗﺼﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺑﻠﻮرﺗﻲ اﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ‬

‫اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﻤﻮذج اﻟﻤﻨﻈﻢ أو اﻟﻨﻤﻮذج اﻟﻀﺎﺑﻂ ﻟﻠﻮﻗﺖ‪.‬‬

‫ﻓﻮق اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ .‬وﻋﻠﻰ ﻣ ّﺮ ا ﻋﻮام ﺗﺮﺟﻤﺖ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ‪ Happy Sport‬ﺑﻄﺮق ﻣﺘﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻓﻜﺎﻧﺖ‬

‫وﻛﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻀﺎﺑﻄﺔ اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ اﻟﻜﺒﻴﺮة‪ ،‬ﻓﺈن اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮات اﻟﺴﺘﺔ ﻓﻲ ‪L.U.C‬‬

‫‪ Happy Beach، La Vie en Rose، Happy Sport Square‬و ‪.Happy Spirit‬‬

‫‪ Regulator‬ﻣﻔ ّﺮﻗﺔ ﻋﻦ ﺑﻌﻀﻬﺎ اﻟﺒﻌﺾ ﻟﺘﺄﻣﻴﻦ اﻋﻠﻰ درﺟﺎت ﺳﻬﻮﻟﺔ ﻗﺮاءة اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪ .‬وﻛﻤﺎ‬

‫وﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎم ‪ ٢٠١٤‬ﺟﻤﻌﺖ ‪ Happy Sport Medium Automatic‬ﺑﻴﻦ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ‪Happy‬‬

‫ﻣﻨﻈﻢ ﺣﻘﻴﻘﻲ‪ ،‬ﻫﻨﺎﻟﻚ ﻋﻘﺮب دﻗﺎﺋﻖ ﻣﺮﻛﺰي وﻟﻜﻦ ﻟﻴﺲ ﻣﻦ ﻋﻘﺮب ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﺮﻛﺰي‪.‬‬ ‫ﱢ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ‬

‫‪ Diamond‬وﺑﻴﻦ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻴﺔ‪ .‬ﻓﺎ‪Ù‬ﻟﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ‪Happy‬‬

‫وﻋﻮﺿ ًﺎ ﻋﻦ ذﻟﻚ ﻓﺈن اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﺸﺎر اﻟﻴﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻴﻨﺎ ﺛﺎﻧﻮﻳﺔ ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ،٣‬ﺣﻴﺚ‬

‫‪ Sport 30mm Automatic‬ﻫﻲ ﻧﻔﺴﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻧﺴﺨﺔ اﻟـ‪ ٣٦‬ﻣﻠﻢ ﻣﻦ ‪Happy‬‬

‫ﻳﻤﻜﻦ رؤﻳﺘﻬﺎ ﺑﺴﻬﻮﻟﺔ ﺣﺘﻰ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﻛﻢ ﻗﻤﻴﺺ‪.‬‬

‫‪ .Sport Automatic‬اﻟﻐﻼف ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ اﻟﻤﻘﺎوم ﻟﻠﺼﺪأ وﻳﻤﻜﻦ ﺗﺮﺻﻴﻌﻪ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس ﻋﻨﺪ‬

‫وﺛﻤﺔ ﻣﺆﺷﺮ أﺧﺮ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أﻣﺎ اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮة ﻓﻤﺴﺠﻠﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻴﻨﺎ ﺛﺎﻧﻮﻳﺔ ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪،٦‬‬

‫ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺰﺟﺎﺟﺔ‪ ،‬واﻟﺘﺎج ﻣﺼﻨﻮع أﻳﻀ ًﺎ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ وﻣﺮﺻﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ ا زرق‪ ،‬وﺗﺄﺗﻲ إﻣﺎ ﻣﻊ ﺳﻮار‬

‫ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ٩‬ﻳﻌﺮض ﻓﻬﺮس وﻗﺖ ﺟﺮﻳﻨﻴﺘﺶ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺪى اﻟـ‪ ٢٤‬ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‪ ،‬وﻫﻨﺎﻟﻚ زر‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ أو ﻣﻊ ﺣﺰام اﻧﻴﻖ ﻣﻦ ﺟﻠﺪ اﻟﺘﻤﺴﺎح ا ﺳﻮد‪ .‬أﻣﺎ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﻔﻀﻴﺔ اﻟﻠﻮن ﻓﻤﺰﻳﻨﺔ‬

‫داﻓﻊ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﻏﻴﺮ ﻇﺎﻫﺮ ﻣﻮﺿﻮع ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺎﻧﺐ اﻟﻐﻼف ﻳﺘﺤﻜﻢ وﻇﻴﻔﺔ اﻟﺘﻮﻗﻴﺖ اﻟﻤﺬﻛﻮر‪ ،‬أﻣﺎ‬

‫ﺑﻨﻤﻂ ﻣﻀﻔّ ﺮ ﻣﺮﻛﺰي‪ .‬ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Happy Sport‬اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة اﺳﺘﻜﻤﻠﺖ ﺑﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﻣﻦ‬

‫اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ اﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ ﻓﻤﻮﻗﻌﻪ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺴﺘﻮا ً ﺧﻠﻔﻲ ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ،١٢‬وﻧﺎﻓﺬة اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ ﻣﻮﺿﻮﻋﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ‬

‫ﻣﺠﻮﻫﺮات ‪ ،Happy Diamonds‬وﺗﻘﻮم ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻨﻤﻂ اﻟﺮﺑﻴﻌﻲ ا ﺳﺎﺳﻲ‪:‬‬

‫ﻣﻮﺿﻌﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ٤‬واﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ .٥‬ورﻏﻢ وﺟﻮد وﻇﺎﺋﻒ ﻣﺘﻌﺪدة ﻓﻲ ﻣﺴﺎﺣﺔ ﺻﻐﻴﺮة ﻧﺴﺒﻴﺎً‪-‬‬

‫اﻟﺰﻫﺮة‪ ،‬ﺣﻴﺚ ﻇﻬﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺨﻮاﺗﻢ اﻟﻤﺼﻤﻤﺔ ﻛﺄزﻫﺎر ﻣﺘﺪﻟﻴﺔ وﻛﺄﻗﺮاط ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ‬

‫ﺣﺠﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ٤٣‬ﻣﻠﻢ‪ -‬ﻓﺈن اﻟﻘﺪرة ﻋﻠﻰ ﻗﺮاءة اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻴﻨﺎ ‪L.U.C Regulator‬‬

‫ا ﺑﻴﺾ أو اﻟﺰﻫﺮي‪ .‬واﻟﺒﺘﻼت ﺗﺘﺄﻟﻖ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس ﻣﻊ ﻣﺎﺳﺔ ﻣﺮﻛﺰﻳﺔ ﻋﺎﺋﻤﺔ وﻓﻖ ﺗﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬

‫ﺳﻬﻠﺔ ﺟﺪا ً ﻣﻊ أرﻗﺎم ﻋﺮﺑﻴﺔ واﺿﺤﺔ وﻣﻊ ﻋﻼﻣﺎت ﻣﺆﺷﺮات ﻛﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ‪.‬‬

‫‪.Happy Diamonds‬‬

‫وﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻛﺎﻟﻴﺒﺮ ‪ Caliber L.U.C 98.02-L‬اﻟﻤﻌﺒﺄ ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ ﻣﻊ اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ ﻃﺎﻗﺔ ﻟﻤﺪة‬ ‫ﺗﺴﻌﺔ أﻳﺎم ﻣﺪﻓﻮع ﺑﺄرﺑﻊ اﺳﻄﻮاﻧﺎت‪ .‬إن ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ﺣﺎزت ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺼﺎدﻗﺔ ‪COSC‬‬

‫ﺑﺮاﻋﺔ ﻓﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﻐﻠﻬﺎ‬

‫ﻣﻤﺎ ﺟﻌﻠﻬﺎ ﻛﺮوﻧﻮﻣﺘﺮا ً ﻣﻮﺛﻮﻗﺎً‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ اﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﺴﺐ ﻣﻌﺎﻳﻴﺮ ﻧﻮﻋﻴﺔ اﻟﺴﻤﺔ‬

‫وﻗﺪ أﺛﺒﺘﺖ دار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر أﻳﻀﺎً‪ ،‬ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺮ ا ﻋﻮام‪ ،‬ﺳﻴﻄﺮﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻬﻦ اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫اﻟﻤﻤﻴﺰة ‪ .Poinçon de Genève‬ﺗﺸﻬﺪ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺼﺎدﻗﺎت ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻮى اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻲ ﺟﺪا ً‬

‫ﻼ ﻋﻦ ﻗﺪرﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﻘﺎط ﺟﻮﻫﺮ ا ﻧﻤﺎط اﻟﺜﻘﺎﻓﻴﺔ واﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﻴﺔ ﺑﺎﺳﺘﺨﺪام‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ ،‬ﻓﻀ ً‬

‫ﻟﻠﺪﻗﺔ وﻟﻠﺤﺮﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺘﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﻴﺪوي‪ ،‬وﻛﻼ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﻴﺘﺎن ﺗﺤﺪد اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة‪.‬‬

‫ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺎت ﻣﺜﻞ رﺻﻒ ا ﺣﺠﺎر اﻟﻜﺮﻳﻤﺔ‪ ،‬اﻟﺼﻘﻞ‪ ،‬اﻟﻤﻨﻤﻨﻤﺎت‪ ،‬اﻟﺨﺸﺐ اﻟﻤﻄﻌﻢ واﻟﺤﻔﺮ‪ .‬ﺗﺤﺘﻔﻆ‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 26‬‬

‫ﺧﻮاﺗﻢ أزﻫﺎر ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ‪Happy Diamonds Joaillerie‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﺰﻫﺮي أو ا ﺑﻴﺾ ﻣﻊ ﻣﺎﺳﺔ ﻣﺘﺤﺮﻛﺔ وﺣﺒﻴﺒﺎت‬ ‫ﻣﺎس ﺑﺮاﻗﺔ ﻣﻦ أﺣﺠﺎم ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Goat‬ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ وﻓﻖ‬ ‫اﻟﻄﺮﻳﻘﺔ اﻟﻴﺎﺑﺎﻧﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﻄﻼء اﻟﻤﻌﺮوﻓﺔ ﺑـ ‪.Urushi‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Happy Sport Medium Automatic Two Tone‬‬

‫ﻼ ﻣﻦ ﺗﺤﺖ ﻳﺎﻗﺔ ﻛﻢ اﻟﻘﻤﻴﺺ ﻟﻴﻜﻮن‬ ‫‪ ،٣‬ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﺘﻴﺢ إﻣﻜﺎﻧﻴﺔ رؤﻳﺘﻪ ﺑﻤﺠﺮد اﻧﺰﻻق اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻗﻠﻴ ً‬

‫اﻟﻤﻨﻔﺼﻞ ﻟﻌﺮض اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮات ﻣﻨﺬ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﺤﻴﻦ ﺑﺄﺳﻠﻮب ﻋﺮض ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺗﻨﻈﻴﻢ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪ .‬وﻗﺪ‬

‫ﺑﺬﻟﻚ ﻇﺎﻫﺮا ً وواﺿﺤ ًﺎ ﻓﻲ ﻛﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﻈﺮوف‪ .‬وﺗﻢ اﺳﺘﺒﺪال اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﺤﺪاﺛﻲ ﻟﻠﻤﺆﺷﺮات ﻓﻲ‬

‫ﺷﻜّ ﻠﺖ ﺛﻼﺛﺔ أﻧﻮاع رﺋﻴﺴﻴﺔ ﻟﻤﻨﻈﻤﺎت اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺎت ﻣﺼﺪر ا‪å‬ﻟﻬﺎم ﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ٢٠٠٦ L.U.C Regulator‬ﺑﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ﺗﺘﺴﻢ ﻣﺆﺷﺮاﺗﻪ ﺑﻨﻤﻂ ﻣﻨﻤﻖ ﻟﻠﺨﻂ‬

‫ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻟﺘﻘﻮم ﺑﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ .L.U.C‬إذ أن دﻗﺘﻬﺎ وﻣﻮﺛﻮﻗﻴﺘﻬﺎ وﻗﻴﻤﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺮﺟﻌﻴﺔ إﺿﺎﻓﺔ‬

‫اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪم واﻟﺬي ﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻴﻨﺎء اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ .‬إﻻ أن اﻟﻄﺒﻴﻌﺔ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة ﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪L.U.C‬‬

‫ﻟﻘﺪرﺗﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺼﻤﻮد دون أن ﻳﺼﻴﺒﻬﺎ أي ﺧﻠﻞ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺮ اﻟﺰﻣﺎن؛ ﺗﺸﻜﻞ ﻣﻌ ًﺎ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﺒﺎدئ‬

‫‪ Regulator‬ﺗﻜﻤﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺆﺷﺮاﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻼﻗﻴﺎﺳﻴﺔ‪ .‬ﻳﺘﺴﻢ ﻣﻴﻨﺎؤﻫﺎ ﺑﺘﻨﺎﺳﻖ ﻣﺬﻫﻞ ﻓﻘﺪ اﺗﺨﺬت‬

‫ﺗﻮﺟﻴﻬﻴﺔ ذات ﻗﻴﻤﺔ ﻟﺼﻨّﺎع اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ .‬وﻣﻦ اﻟﺠﻠﻲ ﺗﻤﺎﻣ ًﺎ ﺑﺄن ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪L.U.C Regulator‬‬

‫اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮات ﻣﻮاﺿﻌﻬﺎ ﻋﻨﺪ أﻣﺎﻛﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺮﺋﻴﺴﻴﺔ ا رﺑﻌﺔ )‪ .(١٢ ،٩ ،٦ ،٣‬ﺣﻴﺚ اﻋﺘﻠﻰ ﻣﺆﺷﺮ‬

‫ﺗﻨﺘﻤﻲ إﻟﻰ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺼﻨﻒ اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻖ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ ،‬وﻳﻌﻮد ذﻟﻚ ﺳﻠﻮب اﻟﻌﺮض اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬

‫اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ اﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ ﻣﻴﻨﺎء اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ١٢‬ﻟﻴﻈﻬﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻘﻴﺎس ﻣﺘﺪرج ﻣﺪى ﺗﻌﺒﺌﺔ آﻟﻴﺔ‬

‫ﻋﻼوة ﻋﻠﻰ أداءﻫﺎ اﻟﻔﺎﺋﻖ وﻃﺒﻴﻌﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة‪.‬‬

‫اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ ‪ L.U.C 98.02-L‬ﺑﺎﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ‪ ،‬وﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ،٣‬ﺑﻴﻨﻤﺎ ﻳﻨﺒﺾ‬

‫ﺗُﺴﺘﺨﺪﻣﺂﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ ‪ L.U.C 98.02-L‬ﻟﺘﺸﻐﻴﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ،L.U.C Regulator‬وﻗﺪ‬

‫ﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ اﻟﺼﻐﻴﺮ ﺑﺘﻮاﺗﺮ ﻣﻀﻄﺮد ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪.٦‬‬

‫ﺧﻀﻌﺖ ﻛﻞ واﺣﺪة ﻣﻦ آﻟﻴﺎت اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ ﻫﺬه إﻟﻰ اﻻﺧﺘﺒﺎرات اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺠﺮﻳﻬﺎ اﻟﻬﻴﺌﺔ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺴﺮﻳﺔ‬

‫أﻣﺎ اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺮاﺑﻊ ﻓﻴﺘﺨﺬ ﻣﻮﺿﻌ ًﺎ اﺳﺘﺮاﺗﻴﺠﻴ ًﺎ ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ٩‬ﻟﻴﻌﺮض اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﻣﺰدوج‬

‫اﻟﺮﺳﻤﻴﺔ ﻻﺧﺘﺒﺎر اﻟﻜﺮوﻧﻮﻣﺘﺮ ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﻀﻤﻦ دﻗﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﻨﺎﻫﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻗﻴﺎس اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪ .‬وﺑﺬﻟﻚ‬

‫ﺣﺴﺐ ﺗﻮﻗﻴﺖ ﻏﺮﻳﻨﻴﺘﺶ‪ ،‬وﻳﺘﻢ اﻟﺘﺤﻜﻢ ﺑﻬﺬا اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮ ﺑﻤﺼﺤﺢ داﻓﻊ ﻳﺘﻮارى ﺿﻤﻦ ﺗﺠﻮﻳﻒ‬

‫أﺻﺒﺤﺖ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ﻣﺨﻮّ ﻟﺔ ﻟﺘﺤﻤﻞ ﻧﻘﺶ اﻟﻜﺮوﻧﻮﻣﺘﺮ ‪Chronometer‬‬

‫ﺻﻐﻴﺮ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺎﻧﺐ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ .‬وﻳﻈﻬﺮ اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﻧﺎﻓﺬة ﻣﻮﺿﻮﻋﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺘﻴﻦ ‪ ٤‬و‪٥‬‬

‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻴﻨﺎﺋﻬﺎ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﺨﻄﺖ ﻋﻠﺒﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬وآﻟﻴﺔ ﺣﺮﻛﺘﻬﺎ اﺧﺘﺒﺎرات‬

‫ﻟﻴﻮﻓﺮ درﺟﺔ اﻟﺘﻨﺎﺳﻖ اﻟﻤﻄﻠﻮﺑﺔ ﺗﻤﺎﻣ ًﺎ وﻳﺒﺮز اﻟﺘﺮﺗﻴﺐ اﻟﻤﻨﻀﺒﻂ ﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎء اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﻤﺼﻘﻮل‬

‫ا داء اﻟﺼﺎرﻣﺔ ﻟﺘﺤﻈﻰ ﺑﺪﻣﻐﺔ ﺟﻨﻴﻒ ﻟﻠﺠﻮدة اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺸﻬﺪ ﻟﻬﺎ ﺑﺪﻗﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ وﺣﺮﻓﻴﺘﻬﺎ‬

‫واﻟﻤﺰﻳّﻦ ﺑﺰﺧﺮﻓﺔ ﺑﺰوغ اﻟﺸﻤﺲ‪ .‬ﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻧﻮع اﻟﺨﻂ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻓﻲ ا رﻗﺎم اﻟﻌﺮﺑﻴﺔ ﻣﺪى‬

‫اﻟﻔﻨﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﺠﻠﻰ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﺧﺎص ﻓﻲ اﻟﻠﻤﺴﺎت اﻟﻨﻬﺎﺋﻴﺔ اﻟﺮﻓﻴﻌﺔ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻮى ﻋﻠﻰ ا ﺟﺰاء‬

‫اﻻﻫﺘﻤﺎم ﺑﺄدق اﻟﺘﻔﺎﺻﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﻟﺘﻀﻊ ا رﻗﺎم اﻟﻠﻤﺴﺔ اﻟﻨﻬﺎﺋﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺜﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺸﻜﻞ اﻟﻌﺎم‬

‫اﻟﻤﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ .‬وﺑﺎ‪å‬ﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺷﻬﺎدات اﻟﺠﻮدة ﺗﻠﻚ‪ ،‬ﺗﻮﻓﺮ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪L.U.C‬‬

‫ﻟﻠﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺬي ﻳﻔﻴﺾ أﻧﺎﻗﺔ‪ .‬ﻳﺘﺮك ﻫﺬا اﻟﺴﻌﻲ اﻟﺤﺜﻴﺚ ﻟﺘﺤﻘﻴﻖ اﻟﺘﻨﺎﻏﻢ اﻟﺒﺼﺮي ﺑﺼﻤﺘﻪ أﻳﻀ ًﺎ‬

‫‪ Regulator‬اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ اﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎﺋﻲ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ ﻳﺒﻠﻎ ‪ ٢١٦‬ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‪ ،‬أي ﻣﺎ ﻳﻌﺎدل ‪ ٩‬أﻳﺎم ﻣﻦ‬

‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻋﻠﺒﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺒﻠﻎ ﺳﻤﺎﻛﺘﻬﺎ ‪ ٩,٧٨‬ﻣﻠﻢ وﻗﻄﺮﻫﺎ ‪ ٤٣‬ﻣﻠﻢ‪ ،‬ﻟﺘﺤﻘﻖ ﺑﺬﻟﻚ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫اﻟﻌﻤﻞ اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﺻﻞ‪ ،‬وﻫﺬا ا داء اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻲ ﻳﻨﺪرج ﻋﻠﻰ ﻛﺎﻓﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﻦ ﻋﻴﺎر ‪ .L.U.C‬وﺗﺒﻠﻎ‬

‫‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ذروة اﻟﺘﻨﺎﺳﻖ واﻻﻧﺴﺠﺎم‪.‬‬

‫ﺳﻤﺎﻛﺔ آﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ ‪ L.U.C 98.02-L‬ﻣﻘﺪار ‪ ٤,٩٠‬ﻣﻠﻢ ﻓﻘﻂ‪ ،‬ﺑﺎﻟﺮﻏﻢ ﻣﻦ اﺣﺘﻮاﺋﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ‬ ‫أرﺑﻌﺔ ﺧﺰاﻧﺎت ﻟﻠﻄﺎﻗﺔ ﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﺑﻨﻈﺎم ‪ ®Quattro‬ﻟﺘﻀﻤﻦ ﻟﻠﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻘﺪر ﻣﻦ اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ‬

‫ﺗﺎرﻳﺦ ﻋﺮﻳﻖ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺪﻗﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﻨﺎﻫﻴﺔ‬

‫اﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ‪ .‬وﺗﺘﻴﺢ ﻫﺬه ا ﺑﻌﺎد اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﺿﻌﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻗﻴﺎﺳﺎﺗﻬﺎ وﺿﻊ آﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ اﻟﻔﺎﺋﻘﺔ ﻫﺬه‬

‫ﺑﺪء اﺳﺘﺨﺪام ﺳﺎﻋﺎت »ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺎت اﻟﻮﻗﺖ« اﻟﻔﺎﺋﻘﺔ اﻟﺪﻗﺔ ﻓﻲ أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺘﺎﺳﻊ ﻋﺸﺮ‪ ،‬ﻓﻘﺪ‬

‫ﺿﻤﻦ ﻋﻠﺒﺔ ﻧﺤﻴﻔﺔ إﻟﻰ ﺣﺪ ﻣﺎ‪.‬‬

‫ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺤﺎﺋﻂ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ دﻻﻟﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺮﻗﻲ اﻟﺮﻓﻴﻊ‪ ،‬وﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻟﺪﻗﺘﻬﺎ ﺑﻤﺜﺎﺑﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻣﺮﺟﻌﻴﺔ‬

‫ﺑﺪءا ً ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﺮﻛﺔ ووﺻﻮ ًﻻ إﻟﻰ أدق ﺗﻔﺎﺻﻴﻞ اﻟﻤﻈﻬﺮ وا داء‪ ،‬ﺗﺒﺮز ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ﻣﺪى‬

‫ﻓﻲ ورﺷﺎت ﺗﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ .‬وﻟﻴﺴﻬﻞ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎﺗﻲ اﺳﺘﺨﺪاﻣﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺿﺒﻂ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﺑﺪﻗﺔ‬

‫اﻟﺠﻬﺪ اﻟﺬي ﺗﻢ ﺑﺬﻟﻪ واﻻﻫﺘﻤﺎم اﻟﺬي ﺗﻢ ﺗﻜﺮﻳﺴﻪ ﻟﺒﻠﻮغ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺠﻮدة ﻓﻲ أداء اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ وﻣﻈﻬﺮﻫﺎ‬

‫ﻋﻨﺪ ﻗﻴﺎﻣﻪ ﺑﺘﻌﺪﻳﻞ ﺗﻮﻗﻴﺖ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻴﺪ واﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ا ﺧﺮى‪ ،‬ﺗﻢ ﻓﺼﻞ ﻣﺆﺷﺮات اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‬

‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻌﺼﻢ اﻟﻴﺪ‪ .‬وﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ ا ﻧﺎﻗﺔ وﺳﻬﻮﻟﺔ اﻻﺳﺘﺨﺪام ﺟﺰءا ً ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ اﻟﻤﻤﻴﺰات اﻟﺘﻲ‬

‫واﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ واﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ ﺑﺤﻴﺚ وﺿﻊ ﻛﻞ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺟﺰء ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎء‪ .‬وﻳﻌﺮف ﻫﺬا ا ﺳﻠﻮب‬

‫ﺗﺘﺸﺎرﻛﻬﺎ ﺟﻤﻴﻊ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﺷﻮﺑﺎر اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة ﺿﻤﻦ ﻓﺌﺔ ‪.L.U.C Haute Horlogerie‬‬

‫‪29 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪COVER STORY‬‬ ‫ﻗﺼﺔ اﻟﻐﻼف‬

‫اﻟﻐﻼف اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻲ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ﺗﻈﻬﺮ‬ ‫آﻟﻴﺔ ‪.Caliber L.U.C 98.02-L‬‬

‫اﻟﻘﻨﻔﺬ‬ ‫وأﺧﻴﺮا ً‪ ،‬ﺗﻘﺪم ﻫﺬا اﻟﻌﺎم دار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻣﺜﺎﻻ آﺧﺮ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻮاﻫﺐ اﻟﺮاﺋﻌﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻓﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ ﻣﻊ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Hedgehog‬أي اﻟﻘﻨﻔﺬ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺘﻬﺎ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺤﻴﻮان‪.‬‬ ‫اﻧﻬﺎ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ذات اﺳﻠﻮب ﻏﺎﻣﺾ‪ ،‬ﻣﻊ ﻏﻄﺎء ﻛﺮوي ﻟﻠﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻘﻨﻔﺬ ﻣﺮﺻﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس‬ ‫وﺣﺠﺎرة اﻟﻘﻤﺮ اﻟﻤﻘﻄﻌﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺴﺎﻣﻴﺮ رﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﺑﺎرﺗﻔﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﺘﻔﺎوﺗﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫اﻟﺮأس ﻣﺮﺻﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺎﻣﻞ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس وﻣﻨﻤﻖ ﺑﺤﺠﺮيّ ﺻﻔﻴﺮ ﻣﻜﺎن اﻟﻌﻴﻨﻴﻦ‪ ،‬ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﻌﻄﻲ اﻟﻘﻨﻔﺬ‬ ‫ﻧﻈﺮة ﻣﺸﻌّ ﺔ‪ .‬أﻣﺎ اﻟﺨﻄﻢ ﻓﻤﺮﺻﻊ ﺑﺎﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ اﻟﺒﻨﻲ‪ ،‬وﻳﺨﻔﻲ ﺳﺮا ً ﻣﺤﺮوﺳ ًﺎ ﺟﻴﺪا ً – اذ ﻋﻨﺪ‬ ‫ﻟﻤﺴﻪ ﺗﺘﺤﻮل ﻫﺬه اﻟﻘﻄﻌﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻗﻄﻌﺔ ﻣﺠﻮﻫﺮات إﻟﻰ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‪ .‬وﺗﺘﻄﻠﺐ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻘﻄﻌﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﻔﺮﻳﺪة ﻣﺌﺎت اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﻦ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ ﻣﻦ ﻗﺒﻞ ﺧﻴﺮة اﻟﻤﻮاﻫﺐ ﻣﻦ ورش اﻟﻌﻤﻞ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ‪ .‬واﻟﻐﻼف ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ ا ﺑﻴﺾ ﻣﺮﺻﻮف ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس وﺑﺤﺠﺎرة اﻟﻘﻤﺮ‬ ‫ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﻛﺎﻣﻞ‪ ،‬وﻓﻖ ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﺗﺮﺻﻴﻊ اﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫وﻛﻞ ذﻟﻚ ﻳﺘﻄﻠﺐ ﻣﻬﺎرات ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻛﺎﻣﻠﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻓﺮﻳﻖ اﻟﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ دار ﺷﻮﺑﺎر‪:‬‬

‫اﻟﻐﻼف ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﺰﻫﺮي‬ ‫وﻳﺒﻠﻎ ﻗﻄﺮه ‪ ٤٣‬ﻣﻠﻢ وﺳﻤﺎﻛﺘﻪ ‪ ٩٫٧٨‬ﻣﻠﻢ‬

‫ﻣﺼﻤﻤﻮن وﺻﺎﻧﻌﻮ ﻣﻨﺤﻮﺗﺎت ﻣﻦ ﻗﻮاﻟﺐ اﻟﺸﻤﻊ ﻟﻠﻤﺠﻮﻫﺮات‪ ،‬اﻟﺠﻮاﻫﺮﺟﻴﻮن‪ ،‬اﻟﺼﺎﻏﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻣﺮﺻﻌﻮ ا ﺣﺠﺎر اﻟﻜﺮﻳﻤﺔ واﻟﻤﻠﻤﻌﻮن‪.‬‬ ‫‪L.U.C Regulator‬‬ ‫أﻋﺎدت ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻫﺬا اﻟﻌﺎم ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬اﻟﻜﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ‬ ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة ‪ L.U.C Haute Horlogerie‬ﻟﺘﻘﺪﻣﻬﺎ ﺑﺤﻠﺔ ﻋﺼﺮﻳﺔ‪ ،‬ﻓﺠﻤﻌﺖ ﻫﺬه‬ ‫اﻟﺘﺤﻔﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ ﺑﻴﻦ أﻧﺎﻗﺔ ﻋﻠﺒﺔ ‪ L.U.C‬اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة وﻓﺨﺎﻣﺔ ﺣﺮﻛﺔ ﻣﻨﻈﻢ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻨﺘﺠﻬﺎ‬ ‫ﺷﻮﺑﺎر‪ .‬وﺗﻤﺎﺷﻴ ًﺎ ﻣﻊ اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ اﻟﻌﺮﻳﻖ ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗﻢ اﻟﻔﺼﻞ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﺆﺷﺮات‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺘﺔ ﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﺑﻬﺪف ﺗﺴﻬﻴﻞ ﻗﺮاﺋﺘﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ أﻗﺼﻰ ﺣﺪ ﻣﻤﻜﻦ‪.‬‬ ‫وﺗﺸﻬﺪ ﻟﻬﺎ دﻣﻐﺔ ﺟﻨﻴﻒ ﻟﻠﺠﻮدة وﺷﻬﺎدة اﻟﻬﻴﺌﺔ اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺴﺮﻳﺔ اﻟﺮﺳﻤﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﻜﺮوﻧﻮﻣﺘﺮ‬ ‫‪ COSC‬ﻋﻠﻰ دﻗﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﻨﺎﻫﻴﺔ وﺣﺮﻓﻴﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻔﺎﺋﻘﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ ﺗﺘﺴﻢ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪L.U.C Regulator‬‬ ‫ﺑﺪﻗﺔ ﺗﻨﺎﺳﻖ ﻋﻨﺎﺻﺮﻫﺎ ﺑﺤﻴﺚ ﺗﺸﻜّ ﻞ ﻣﻔﺨﺮة ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ﺗﻀﺎف إﻟﻰ ﻣﺰاﻳﺎﻫﺎ اﻟﻌﺪﻳﺪة اﻟﺮاﺋﻌﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ »ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺎت اﻟﻮﻗﺖ« )‪ (Regulators‬اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺪﻗﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻤﻴﺰ ﺑﺄﺳﻠﻮب اﻟﻌﺮض‬ ‫اﻟﻼﻣﺮﻛﺰي ﻟﻠﻮﻗﺖ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ ﻛﻼﺳﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﺗﻘﺎرﺑﻬﺎ ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا اﻟﻤﻮدﻳﻞ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪ ﺑﺄﺳﻠﻮب‬ ‫ﻋﺼﺮي ﻟﻠﻐﺎﻳﺔ‪ .‬ﻓﻘﺪ أﻋﺎدت ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﻣﻮدﻳﻞ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻜﺎﻣﻞ ﻟﺘﻀﻤﻦ ﺳﻬﻮﻟﺔ‬ ‫ﻗﺮاءﺗﻬﺎ إﻟﻰ أﻗﺼﻰ ﺣﺪ ﻣﻤﻜﻦ دون إﻏﻔﺎل أﻫﻤﻴﺔ ﻣﻈﻬﺮﻫﺎ اﻟﺮﺳﻤﻲ ا ﻧﻴﻖ‪ ،‬ﻓﺘﺠﺴﺪت ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺒﺎدئ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻧﺸﺄت ﻋﻠﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ .L.U.C‬ﺣﻴﺚ ﺿﻤﻨﺖ ﻟﻬﺎ دﻗﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻴﺔ‬ ‫وأﺑﻌﺎدﻫﺎ اﻟﻤﺘﻨﺎﺳﻘﺔ وﻋﺮاﻗﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻤﺘﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻋﻤﻖ اﻟﺘﺎرﻳﺦ؛ ﻣﻜﺎﻧﺘﻬﺎ ﻛﺴﺎﻋﺔ أﺻﻴﻠﺔ ﺿﻤﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Haute Horlogerie‬ﻟﻠﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة‪.‬‬ ‫أﺑﻌﺎد دﻗﻴﻘﺔ وﻣﺘﻮازﻧﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﻌﺪ إﻃﻼق أوﻟﻰ ﻣﻮدﻳﻼت ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎم ‪ ،٢٠٠٦‬ﺗﺘﻔﺮد ﺷﻮﺑﺎر ﺑﺈﺑﺪاﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ‪،‬‬ ‫وﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺮة ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل ﺗﺼﻐﻴﺮ آﻟﻴﺔ »ﻣﻨﻈﻢ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ« ﻟﺘﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻟﻠﻴﺪ‪ .‬واﺳﺘﺒﺪﻟﺖ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻠﺒﺔ اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ ﺑﻌﻠﺒﺔ ﺑﺪﻳﻌﺔ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﻮردي ‪ ١٨‬ﻗﻴﺮاط‪ .‬ﺗﺘﻤﻴﺰ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺎت اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻋﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ ﺑﺎﻧﺤﺮاف ﻋﻘﺮب اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻦ ﻣﺮﻛﺰ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎء‪ .‬إﻻ أن‬ ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ L.U.C Regulator‬ﺗﺨﺘﻠﻒ ﻋﻦ ﻏﺎﻟﺒﻴﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﻨﻈﻤﺎت اﻟﻮﻗﺖ اﻟﻤﺘﻮاﻓﺮة اﻟﺘﻲ‬ ‫ﺗﻀﻊ ﻋﻘﺮب اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ ،١٢‬ﺣﻴﺚ اﺗﺨﺬ ﻋﻘﺮب اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﻣﻜﺎﻧﻪ ﻋﻨﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 28‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier‬‬

THE AHCI IS INSTRUMENTAL IN HELPING NEW GENERATIONS OF INDEPENDENT WATCHMAKERS DEVELOP THEIR OWN BRANDS.

Créations Kazès Genève

MASAHIRO KIKUNO

AHCI Depuis 1985

Miki Eleta

Unique Timepieces

ACADEMIE HORLOGERE DES CREATEURS INDEPENDANTS WWW.AHCI.CH

BASELWORLD 2015 HALL 2.0 / C15 MARCH 19 - 26, 2015

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫ﻋﻦ ﻗﺮب‬

‫اﻟﻤﺤﺎرب ذو اﻟﺮداء!‬ ‫ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ روﻣﺎن ﺟﻴﺮوم‬ ‫‪ DNA‬ﺑﻤﻮاد ﻓﺮﻳﺪة واﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎﺋﻴﺔ‬ ‫وﻏﺮﻳﺒﺔ ﻣﺴﺘﺨﺪﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪.‬‬ ‫وﻟﻘﺪ اﺳﺘﻮﺣﻰ ﺟﻴﺮوم أﺣﺪث‬ ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﻦ اﻟﺮﺟﻞ اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻧﻮﻻ ﻣﺎرﺗﻦ‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﻏﺒﺎر اﻟﻘﻤﺮ واﻟﺮﻣﺎد اﻟﺒﺮﻛﺎﻧﻲ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ ﻣﻦ ﺳﻔﻴﻨﺔ اﻟﺘﺎﻳﺘﺎﻧﻴﻚ أو ﻣﺮﻛﺒﺔ أﺑﻮﻟﻮ ‪ ١١‬اﻟﻔﻀﺎﺋﻴﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻳﺘﺤﺪى روﻣﺎن ﺟﻴﺮوم اﻟﺘﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ ﻋﺒﺮ ﺟﻤﻊ ﻗﺼﺺ اﻟﻠﺤﻈﺎت اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮة اﻟﺒﺎرزة ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻪ‪ .‬وﻫﺎ‬ ‫ﻫﻮ أﺣﺪث وأروع ﻣﺜﺎل أﻃﻠﻘﺘﻪ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﻣﻨﺬ ﺳﻨﻮات‪...‬‬ ‫‪Batman-DNA‬‬ ‫ﻳﺤﺘﻔﻞ أﺣﺪث اﺑﺘﻜﺎر ﻣﻦ ‪ Romain Jerome‬ﺑﺎﻟﻬﻮﻳﺔ اﻟﻤﺰدوﺟﺔ ‪¥‬ﺳﻄﻮرة وﺑﻄﻞ ﺧﺎرق ﻣﺎ‬ ‫ﻫﻮ ﺳﻮى اﻟﺮﺟﻞ اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط‪ .‬ﻓﺒﺎﻟﺘﻌﺎون ﻣﻊ ﺷﺮﻛﺔ ‪Warner Bros. Consumer Products‬‬ ‫و ‪ ،DC Entertainment‬أﻃﻠﻘﺖ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Batman-DNA‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﺘﻔﻞ ﺑﺎﻟﺬﻛﺮى اﻟﺨﺎﻣﺴﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﺴﺒﻌﻴﻦ ﻟﻈﻬﻮر اﻟﺮﺟﻞ اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط ا‪¥‬وﻟﻰ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺻﻔﺤﺎت ﻣﺠﻠﺔ ‪Detective Comics‬‬ ‫ﺷﻦ ﺣﺮﺑﻪ اﻻﻧﺘﻘﺎﻣﻴﺔ ﺿﺪ اﻟﻈﻠﻢ واﻟﺠﺮﻳﻤﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻏﻮﺗﻬﺎم‪ .‬ﻟﻘﺪ ﺟﺬﺑﺖ ﻫﺬه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ ٢٧#‬اﻟﺬي‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺼﺎل ا¸ﻧﺴﺎﻧﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻧﺠﺪﻫﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺮﺟﻞ اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط ﻣﺎﻧﻮﻳﻞ أﻣﺦ‪ ،‬اﻟﻤﺪﻳﺮ اﻟﻌﺎم اﻟﺘﻨﻔﻴﺬي‬ ‫ﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ‪ ،Romain Jerome‬ﻓﻴﻘﻮل‪» :‬ﻟﻄﺎﻟﻤﺎ ﻛﻨﺖ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻌﺠﺒﻴﻦ ﺑﺎﻟﺮﺟﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط وﺷﺨﺼﻴﺘﻪ اﻟﻐﺎﻣﻀﺔ وﻫﻮﻳﺘﻪ اﻟﻤﺰدوﺟﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺸﻜّ ﻞ ﻣﺼﺪر وﺣﻲ ﻻ ﻳﻨﻀﺐ‪ .‬ﻓﻬﻮ‬ ‫ﻳﻤﺜﻞ اﻟﺼﺮاع ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺨﻴﺮ واﻟﺸﺮ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻤﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮ«‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﻨﻬﺎر إﻟﻰ اﻟﻠﻴﻞ‬ ‫ﻋﻠﻰ ﻏﺮار اﻟﻤﺤﻘّ ﻖ ا‪¥‬ﻋﻈﻢ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺪﻳﻨﺔ ﻏﻮﺗﻬﺎم‪ ،‬ﻻ ﺗﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Batman-DNA‬ﺑﺄي ﻗﻮى‬ ‫ﺧﺎرﻗﺔ وﺗﻌﺘﻤﺪ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻌﻠﻢ واﻟﺘﻜﻨﻮﻟﻮﺟﻴﺎ‪ ،‬وﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺑﻐﻼف أﺳﻮد ﻣﻤﻴّﺰ وﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﺷﻌﺎر اﻟﺮﺟﻞ‬ ‫اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط ﻓﻲ وﺳﻂ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﺗﺠﺴﻴﺪا ً ﻟﻠﺒﻄﻞ اﻟﺨﺎرق اﻟﻤﺤﺎرب‪ .‬وﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺸﻌﺎر اﻟﻤﻄﻠﻲ‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻮن ا‪¥‬ﺳﻮد ﻏﻴﺮ اﻟﻼﻣﻊ ﻣﺤﺎﻃ ًﺎ ﺑﻤﺴﺎﺣﺔ ﻣﺤﻔﻮرة ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷﻜﻞ اﻟﻐﺮاﻓﻴﺖ وﻫﻲ ﻣﻄﻠﻴﺔ‬ ‫ﺑﻤﺎدة ﺳﻮﺑﺮﻟﻮﻣﻴﻨﻮﻓﺎ اﻟﻤﻀﻴﺌﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻮن ا‪¥‬ﺳﻮد ﻓﺘﺤﻮّ ل اﻟﻈﻼم إﻟﻰ ﻧﻮر أزرق ﻻﻣﻊ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺤﺎﻛﺎة‬ ‫¸ﺷﺎرة اﻟﺮﺟﻞ اﻟﻮﻃﻮاط‪ .‬وﺗﺘﻌ ّﺰز ﻋﻼﻣﺔ اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺔ اﻟﻔﺎرﻗﺔ ﺑﺸﻌﺎرﻫﺎ ‪ RJ‬اﻟﻤﺼﻘﻮل اﻟﺬي ﻳﻈﻬﺮ‬ ‫ﺗﺤﻤﻞ اﻟﺠﻬﺔ اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻐﻼف ﻣﻴﺪاﻟﻴﺔ ﻣﺨﻔﻮرة وﺗﺤﻴﺔ ﻟﻠﻔﺎرس ا‪¥‬ﺳﻮد‪.‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 30‬‬

‫ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺮﻗﻢ ‪.١٢‬‬

Complication One Movement: - Mechanical, Manual Winding - Swiss Made Caliber EB-1963 - Frequency 18 000 Alt/h Functions: - Hours on a sapphire disc at 8 o'clock - Minutes and 10's of a minute on a sapphire disc at 4 o'clock - Seconds on a sapphire disc at 12 o'clock - Day / night indicator on a sapphire disc at 12 o'clock underneath the seconds disc Case Diameter: 44 mm Power Reserve: 72 Hours

www.emmanuelbouchet.com

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫ﻋﻦ ﻗﺮب‬

‫إﻳﻤﺎﻧﻮﻳﻞ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﻳﺘﺤﺪى ﻗﻮاﻋﺪ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ‪.‬‬

‫‪Complication One‬‬

‫ﺣﺮﻓﻴﺔ ﺗﻄﻐﻮ ﺑﺮوﻧﻖ ﺧﺎص‬ ‫ﺑﻌﺪ ﺗﻄﻮﻳﺮ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻣﻌﻘﺪّ ة ﻟﺼﺎﻟﺢ أﺷﻬﺮ ا ﺳﻤﺎء وأرﻗﺎﻫﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻋﺎﻟﻢ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ ،‬ﻳﻄﻠﻖ إﻳﻤﺎﻧﻮﻳﻞ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ اﻟﻴﻮم ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫‪Complication One‬‬ ‫‪ ،Complication‬إﻧﻬﺎ أوﻟﻰ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ اﺳﻤﻪ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻫﺎري وﻳﻨﺴﺘﻮن ‪Opus 12‬‬

‫واي‪-‬ﺟﻴﻦ ﻣﻮن دﻳﻠﺴﺎل‬

‫ﺻﺎﻧﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺮﻧﺴﻲ إﻳﻤﺎﻧﻮﻳﻞ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ‪ ،‬ﻣﺨﺘﺮع‬

‫ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺑﻌﺠﻠﺔ ﺷﺎﻛﻮش وﻣﺮﺳﺎة ﺑﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﺟﺪﻳﺪ ووﺿﻌﻤﺎ ﻓﻲ وﺳﻂ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﺛﻢ ﻗﺎم‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Opus 12‬اﻟﺘﻲ أﻃﻠﻘﻬﺎ ﻫﺎري وﻳﻨﺴﺘﻮن ﻋﺎم‬

‫ﺑﺘﺨﻔﻴﻒ ﺳﺮﻋﺔ ﺗﺮدد اﻟﺸﺎﻛﻮش إﻟﻰ ‪ ١٨‬أﻟﻒ ﺿﺮﺑﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺑﺪ ًﻻ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻌﺪل اﻟﻤﻌﺘﺎد اﻟﺬي‬

‫‪ .٢٠١٢‬وﺑﻌﺪ ﻣﺮور ﻋﺎﻣﻴﻦ ﻋﻠﻰ إﻃﻼق ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت وإﺛﺎرﺗﻬﺎ‬

‫ﻳﺘﺮاوح ﺑﻴﻦ ‪ ٢١٦٠٠‬و‪ ٣٦‬اﻟﻒ ﺿﺮﺑﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻌﻈﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻴﻮم‪ .‬وﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺮﻋﺔ اﻟﻤﺨﺘﺎرة ﺗﺤﻴﺔ‬

‫إﻋﺠﺎب اﻟﻤﺮاﻗﺒﻴﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻣﻌﺮض ﺑﺎزل ورﻟﺪ‪ ،‬ﻋﺎﻣﺎن أﻣﻀﺎﻫﻤﺎ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ ﻣﻦ أﺟﻞ إﻃﻼق‬

‫ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﺗﺴﻤﺢ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻧﻔﺴﻪ ﻟﻮاﺿﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺑﻤﺮاﻗﺒﺔ ﻋﻤﻞ‬

‫ﻣﺎرﻛﺘﻪ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﻪ واﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ا وﻟﻰ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺤﻤﻞ ﺗﻮﻗﻴﻌﻪ!‬

‫ﺗﻢ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﺑﻌﻀﻬﺎ وﺗﻨﻔﻴﺬﻫﺎ‬ ‫ا‪µ‬ﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﻤﺪﻫﺶ ﻋﻦ ﻛﺜﺐ‪ .‬ﺗﺘﺄﻟﻒ ﻫﺬه ا‪µ‬ﻟﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ‪ ٢٨٣‬ﻗﻄﻌﺔ‪ّ ،‬‬

‫ﻓﻲ أواﺧﺮ اﻟﻌﺎم ‪ ،٢٠١٤‬ﺣﻘﻖ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﻫﺪﻓﻴﻦ ﻛﺎن ﻳﺴﻌﻰ إﻟﻴﻬﻤﺎ‪ ،‬أﻻ وﻫﻤﺎ إﻃﻼق ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫ﺣﺼﺮﻳ ًﺎ ﻟﻬﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ ،‬وﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ‪ ٪١٠٠‬ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا ﺑﺎﻻﺷﺘﺮاك ﻣﻊ اﻟﺘﺠﺎر اﻟﻤﺤﻠﻴﻴﻦ‪.‬‬

‫‪ Complication One‬وﻫﻲ ﻋﺒﺎرة ﻋﻦ ﻣﺰﻳﺞ ﻣﺒﺘﻜﺮ وراﺋﺪ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻬﻨﺪﺳﺔ اﻟﺜﻼﺛﻴﺔ ا ﺑﻌﺎد‬

‫وﻳﻘﻮم ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﺑﺠﻤﻊ ﻫﺬه ا‪µ‬ﻟﻴﺔ داﺧﻞ ﻣﺸﺎﻏﻞ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻣﺸﻐﻠﻪ اﻟﺨﺎص ﻓﻲ ﻟﻲ ﺑﺎﻳﺎر ﻓﻲ‬

‫واﻟﺴﺤﺮ اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻲ واﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ‪ .‬وﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﺗﻜﺮّم ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺪراﻳﺔ واﻟﻤﻬﺎرة ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل‬

‫ﻧﻮﺷﺎﺗﻞ‪ .‬أﻣﺎ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﺘﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺑﻜﻮﻧﻬﺎ ﻣﺘﻌﺪّ دة اﻟﻄﺒﻘﺎت وﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ أﺳﻄﻮاﻧﺔ ﺷﻔﺎﻓﺔ ﻣﻦ‬

‫ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ‪ ،‬ﻧﺠﺪﻫﺎ ﺗﻘﺪّ م رؤﻳﺔ ﺛﻮرﻳﺔ ﺣﻮل اﻟﻮﻗﺖ وأﺳﻠﻮﺑ ًﺎ ﻏﻴﺮ اﻋﺘﻴﺎدﻳ ًﺎ وﺿﻊ‬

‫ﺑﻠﻮرات اﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ ﺗﺸﻜّ ﻞ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﺜﺎﻧﻮﻳﺎت ا رﺑﻊ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺒﺪو وﻛﺄﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﻄﻔﻮ ﻓﻮق اﻟﻘﺎﻋﺪة اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼﻟﻪ اﻟﻌﻨﺎﺻﺮ ا ﺳﺎﺳﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ا‪µ‬ﻟﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﻬﺔ ا ﻣﺎﻣﻴﺔ وﻓﻲ وﺳﻂ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ اﻟﻤﺮﻛﺰﻳﺔ ﻟﺘﻮﻟﻴﺪ‬

‫ﻣﻦ ا وﻧﻴﻜﺲ أو اﻟﻌﻘﻴﻖ واﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﺰّز ﻣﻈﻬﺮ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﻤﺼﻘﻮل واﻟﻤﺤﺪّ د‪ .‬ﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺜﻮاﻧﻲ‬

‫ﻣﻈﻬﺮ ﺑﺼﺮي ﺟﺬاب‪ .‬وﻳﻘﻮل إﻳﻤﺎﻧﻮﻳﻞ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ‪» :‬ﻫﺪﻓﻲ أن أﻃﻮر ﺗﻌﻘﻴﺪا ً ﻣﺒﺘﻜﺮا ً ﻣﻊ ﺧﻄﻮط‬

‫ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺮﻗﻢ ‪ ١٢‬ﻓﻮق ﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﻴﻮم واﻟﻠﻴﻞ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻳﻈﻬﺮ ﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ )وﻋﻘﺮب ﻋﺸﺮ‬

‫واﺿﺤﺔ وﻫﻨﺪﺳﻴﺔ ﺑﺪءا ً ﻣﻦ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻐﻼف ووﺻﻮ ًﻻ إﻟﻰ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﺣﻴﺚ ﻧﺮى اﻟﻌﺪادات‬

‫اﻟﺪﻗﺎﺋﻖ( ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺮﻗﻢ ‪ ،٤‬وﻣﺆﺷﺮ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﻋﻨﺪ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺮﻗﻢ ‪ .٨‬وﻳﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﻋﻘﺮﺑﺎ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‬

‫ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ أﺳﻄﻮاﻧﺎت ﻣﻦ ﺑﻠّﻮرات ﺻﻔﻴﺮ ﺗﺒﺪو وﻛﺄﻧﻬﺎ »ﺗﻄﻔﻮ« ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ ،‬ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﺗﺸﻜّ ﻞ ﻓﻲ‬

‫وﻋﺸﺮ اﻟﺪﻗﻴﻘﺔ ﺑﻜﻮن ﻃﺮﻓﻴﻬﻤﺎ ﻣﺰ ّودﻳﻦ ﺑﺒﻠﻮرة ﺻﻔﻴﺮ ﻟﺘﻌﺰﻳﺰ ﺳﻬﻮﻟﺔ اﻟﻘﺮاءة‪ .‬وﻋﺒﺮ اﻟﺠﻬﺔ‬

‫اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻧﻔﺴﻪ ﺗﺤﻴﺔ ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ واﻟﺪراﻳﺔ اﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﺔ‪ .‬وﻟﻘﺪ ﻋﻤﻠﻨﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺤﺪﻳﺚ‬

‫اﻟﺤﻠﻔﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻐﻼف اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ ﺑﻠﻮرة ﺻﻔﻴﺮ ﺷﻔﺎﻓﺔ‪ ،‬ﻳﻤﻜﻦ رؤﻳﺔ ﺑﺮﻣﻴﻠﻴﻦ ﻣﺰدوﺟﻴﻦ‬

‫ﻋﺠﻠﺔ اﻟﺸﺎﻛﻮش واﻟﻤﺮﺳﺎة اﻟﻠﺘﻴﻦ ﻳﻤﻜﻦ رؤﻳﺘﻬﻤﺎ ﻋﺎدةً ﻋﺒﺮ اﻟﺠﻬﺔ اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪،‬‬

‫ﻳﻤﻨﺤﺎن اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻗﺪرةّ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﻔﻆ اﻟﻄﺎﻗﺔ ﻟﻤﺪة ‪ ٧٠‬ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‪ ،‬ا ﻣﺮ اﻟﻤﺸﺎر إﻟﻴﻪ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺠﻬﺔ اﻟﺨﻠﻔﻴﺔ‬

‫وﻗﺪّ ﻣﻨﺎ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤ ًﺎ ﻓﺮﻳﺪا ً ﻋﺒﺮ وﺿﻌﻬﻤﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ‪ .‬وﻻ ﺗﻘﻮم اﻟﻌﺠﻠﺔ واﻟﻤﺮﺳﺎة ﻣﻘﺎم ﻣﻌﺪات‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﻏﻼف اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ .‬وﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا ا‪Õ‬ﻃﺎر‪ ،‬ﻳﺸﻴﺮ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﻗﺎﺋﻼً‪» :‬إن أﻛﺒﺮ اﻟﺘﺤﺪﻳﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ واﺟﻬﻨﺎﻫﺎ‬

‫ﺿﺒﻂ وﺣﺴﺐ‪ ،‬ﺑﻞ إﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻛﻤﺆﺷﺮات ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﺮور اﻟﻮﻗﺖ«‪ .‬وﻳﻀﻴﻒ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﺑﺎﻟﻘﻮل ﺑﺄن‬

‫ﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﺗﻄﻮﻳﺮ ﻋﻨﺎﺻﺮ ﻏﻴﺮ ﺗﻘﻠﻴﺪﻳﺔ ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﻬﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ«‪ .‬وﻳﺸﻴﺮ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ إﻟﻰ ﻋﺠﻠﺔ اﻟﺸﺎﻛﻮش‬

‫ﻫﺬا اﻟﺸﻜﻞ اﻻﺳﺘﺜﻨﺎﺋﻲ ﻳﺴﻤﺢ ﻟﻮاﺿﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺑﺄن ﻳﺘﺄﻣﻞ ا‪µ‬ﻟﻴﺔ وﻳﻔﻬﻢ ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﻋﻤﻠﻬﺎ ﺑﻄﺮﻳﻘﺔ‬

‫ﺑﺴﻦ داﺧﻠﻴﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻮﻳﻴﻦ واﻟﺪﻓﻊ اﻟﻤﻮﺟﻮد ﺑﻔﻀﻞ ﺷﻜﻠﻬﺎ اﻟﺸﺒﻴﻪ ﺑﺎﻟﺰاوﻳﺔ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ‬

‫اﻟﻤﺼﻤﻢ داﻳﻔﻴﺪ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ﺗﻢ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﻌﺎون ﻣﻊ‬ ‫ﺳﺎﺣﺮة! ﻓﻲ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ ﻧﻔﺴﻪ‪ ،‬ﺗﺒﻘﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ّ‬

‫وأﺳﻄﻮاﻧﺎت اﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ واﻟﻌﻘﺎرب اﻟﻤﺰودة ﺑﻄﺮف ﻣﻦ اﻟﺼﻔﻴﺮ واﻟﻤﺮﺳﺎة! وﻫﺬا اﻟﺘﻔﺼﻴﻞ ا ﺧﻴﺮ‬

‫ﻛﻮﻳﻨﺶ ﺳﻬﻠﺔ اﻟﻠﺒﺲ وأﻧﻴﻘﺔ وراﻗﺒﺔ وﻋﻤﻠﻴﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﻏﻴﺮ اﻋﺘﻴﺎدي ﻧﻪ ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻳﺤﺎﻓﻆ ﻋﻠﻰ دوره اﻟﺘﻘﻠﻴﺪي إﻻ أﻧﻪ ﻳﻘﻮم أﻳﻀ ًﺎ ﺑﺪور ﻣﺆﺷﺮ ﺗﺮ ّدد اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪.‬‬

‫ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Complication One‬ﺑﻐﻼف ﻗﻄﺮه ‪ ٤٤‬ﻣﻠﻢ وﻫﻲ ﻣﺘﻮاﻓﺮة ﻣﻦ اﻟﺒﻼﺗﻴﻦ أو‬

‫ﻣﺮﺻﻌﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻤﺎس‪ ،‬أو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وﻳﻤﻜﻦ ﺗﻌﺪﻳﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﻓﺘﺼﺪر ﺑﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﻣﻤﻴّﺰ ﻟﻠﻤﻴﻨﺎ أو رﺑﻤﺎ ﺗﺄﺗﻲ‬

‫اﻟﺬﻫﺐ ﻣﻦ ﻋﻴﺎر ‪ ١٨‬ﻗﻴﺮاﻃ ًﺎ أو ﻣﻦ ﻣﺎدة اﻟﺘﻴﺘﺎﻧﻴﻮم اﻟﻤﻘﺎوﻣﺔ ﻟﻠﺨﺪوش واﻟﻤﻌﺎﻟﺠﺔ ﺑﻤﺎدة‬

‫ﻋﻘﺎرب ﺷﺨﺼﻴﺔ أو إﺿﺎﻓﺔ زﺧﺎرف ﻋﻠﻰ ا‪µ‬ﻟﻴﺔ‪ .‬وﺳﻴﺼﻨﻊ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ ﺑﻴﻦ ﺧﻤﺴﻴﻦ وﻣﺌﺔ ﻗﻄﻌﺔ‬

‫‪ ، ADLC‬واﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﺤﺘﻮي ﻋﻠﻰ آﻟﻴﺔ ‪ EB-1963‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺼﻨﻌﻬﺎ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ‪ .‬وﻟﻘﺪ زوّد إﻳﻤﺎﻧﻮﻳﻞ ﺑﻮﺷﻴﻪ‬

‫ﻛﻞ ﻗﻄﻌﺔ رﻗﻤ ًﺎ ﻣﺘﺴﻠﺴﻼً‪.‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ وﺳﺘﺤﻤﻞ ّ‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 32‬‬

THE WORLD’S FIRST FULL-METAL GPS HYBRID WAVE CEPTOR *1

*2

Sync with Global Time

Global Business People, The minute you land at an airport, regardless of when or where, you can be sure that with a just a single touch your watch will capture the correct local time. The New Oceanus OCW-G1000 features a hybrid system capable of receiving positioning and time data from GPS satellites as well as terrestrial radio waves from six transmission stations worldwide, guaranteeing absolute accuracy and keeping you in sync with the world around you.

Accurate time synchronization by the reception of GPS Satellite and Terrestrial Wave Signals

Dual Dial World Time

( 2-city simultaneous display )

Elegance and Technology

Solar Powered

OCW-G1000-1A *1 As of September 2014, CASIO investigation. 2* A function combining CASIO solar power-generation with location positioning, determined by GPS (Global Positioning System) and time synchronisation through reception of terrestrial radio waves.

casio-watches.com/oceanus

Global Time Sync G-FACTORY: AlGhurair

GO SMART: Dubai Mall

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫أول ساعة ‪GPS‬‬ ‫هجين بموجات‬ ‫التحكم الالسلكية‬ ‫أعلنت شركة كاسيو الشرق األوسط عن‬ ‫إطالق ساعة *‪،G-SHOCK GPW1000‬‬ ‫أول ساعة في العالم بنظام هجين الستقبال‬ ‫معلومات نظام تحديد المواقع (‪)GPS‬‬ ‫وإشارات الموجات الالسلكية وذلك ألول مرة‬ ‫في منطقة دول مجلس التعاون الخليجي‪.‬‬

‫تتسم ساعة ‪ G-SHOCK GPW 1000‬بهندسة الدقة للحفاظ على دقة التوقيت حتى في أشد الظروف‬ ‫صعوبة حيث تحتوي الساعة على أول نظام هجين الحتساب التوقيت في العالم على اإلطالق والذي يستخدم‬ ‫إشارات النظام العالمي لتحديد المواقع ‪ GPS‬وكذلك إشارات الموجات الالسلكية لتعيير التوقيت من حوالي‬ ‫ست محطات على مستوى العالم‪ .‬وبدمج هذين النظامين المتكاملين الحتساب التوقيت أنتجت كاسيو‬ ‫ساعة مبتكرة تستفيد من قوة التقنية لتقديم قياس أكثر دقة للتوقيت‪.‬‬ ‫وأوضح تسونيو نجاي‪ ،‬المدير اإلداري في كاسيو الشرق األوسط قائال‪«:‬يسعدنا الكشف عن ساعة ‪G-SHOCK‬‬ ‫‪ GPW1000‬في الشرق األوسط وهي الساعة التي تم تطويرها لتجسد منتهى الصالبة من خالل تحسينات‬ ‫في الدقة والمتانة باالعتماد على تقنيات كاسيو‪ .‬تتميز الساعة بصالبة منقطعة النظير إلى جانب أول نظام‬ ‫هجين في العالم الحتساب التوقيت‪ .‬من الغابات الكثيفة إلى الكثبان الصحراوية‪ ،‬في األجواء البحرية أو وسط‬ ‫المباني أو داخل األبواب المغلقة‪ ،‬تقدم ساعة‪ GPW-1000‬التوقيت الدقيق في أي مكان في العالم عن‬ ‫طريق استقبال إشارات ‪ GPS‬وإشارات الموجات الالسلكية لتعيير التوقيت»‪.‬‬ ‫تستقبل الساعة آلي ًا الموجات الالسلكية العادية لتعيير التوقيت أينما توفرت‪ ،‬وفي أوقات أخرى تستقبل‬ ‫الساعات بيانات المواقع من أي قمر صناعي ‪ GPS‬حيث يوظف النظام بيانات الخرائط عالية الدقة لتحديد‬ ‫موقع المستخدم بشكل أكثر دقة‪ .‬ويساعد تطبيق أسلوب تحليل البيانات المتنوعة على مجموعة‬ ‫من المناطق مع نفس ضبط التوقيت الصيفي في ذات منطقة التوقيت‪ ،‬يساعد على تنفيذ عمليات ضبط‬ ‫التوقيت المختلفة بدقة وسرعة‪.‬‬ ‫ولتعويض استهالك الطاقة المرتفع تتميز ساعة ‪ G-SHOCK GPW1000‬باستهالك طاقة منخفض‪LSI ،‬‬ ‫تحديد المواقع (‪ )GPS‬عالي األداء إلى جانب شكل جديد للخاليا الشمسية ذات المخرجات عالية الكفاءة‪.‬‬ ‫يتسم تركيب ‪ Triple G Resist‬بأنه تركيب قوي لمقاومة الصدمات وقوة الطرد المركزي والذبذبات‪.‬‬ ‫وتحتوي الساعة على حزام ألياف الكربون القوي والمتين إلى جانب طارة ببطانة مضادة للخدش تضمن‬ ‫مستوى من المتانة يقاوم أقسى وأصعب األجواء‪ .‬تطورت بشكل فريد ساعة الجيل القادم التي يتم التحكم‬ ‫فيها عن طريق الموجات الالسلكية ‪ GPS Hybrid Wave Ceptor‬بكامل طاقتها الوظيفية في أي مكان‬ ‫أو منطقة توقيت‪.‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 34‬‬

SWISS MADE. LIMITED EDITION. www.fionakrugertimepieces.com

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫ﻋﻦ ﻗﺮب‬

‫ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻛﺮوﺟﺮ‬ ‫رﻣﻮز وﺷﻐﻒ وﺟﻤﺠﻤﺔ‬ ‫ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻛﺮوﺟﺮ ‪ Fiona Krüger‬ﻣﺼﻤﻤﺔ ﺗﻤﻠﻚ‬ ‫ﺧﻠﻔﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ ﻛﻞ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻨﻮن اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ وﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻨﺘﺠﺎت‪ .‬ﻛﻤﺎ أن ﺷﻐﻒ ا ﺷﻴﺎء اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ‬ ‫ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ وإرث اﻟﺘﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ واﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﻴﺪوﻳﺔ ﻫﻲ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺻﻤﻴﻢ ﻋﻤﻠﻬﺎ‪ ،‬وﻟﻬﺬا اﻟﺴﺒﺐ ﻋﻨﺪﻣﺎ ﻧﺎﻟﺖ‬ ‫درﺟﺔ اﻟﻤﺎﺟﺴﺘﻴﺮ ﻓﻲ اﻟﺪراﺳﺎت اﻟﻤﺘﻘﺪﻣﺔ‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﻟﻠﺼﻨﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة ﻣﻦ ‪ECAL‬‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا‪ ،‬ﻗﺮرت ﺗﻄﻮﻳﺮ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﺧﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﻬﺎ‪:‬‬ ‫ﻓﻜﺎﻧﺖ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪.SKULL‬‬

‫ﺳﻤﺤﺖ ﻟﻬﺎ دراﺳﺘﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا ﺗﺠﺮﺑﺔ أوﻟﻰ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة‪،‬‬

‫ﺑﺎ ﺣﺰﻣﺔ‪ .‬وﻫﺬا ﻳﻌﻨﻲ أن ﻛﻞ ﻋﻨﺼﺮ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻜﻢ ﺻﻨﻊ ﻗﺒﻞ ﺷﺨﺺ ﻣﺤﺪد‬

‫ﻓﺎﻧﺒﻬﺮت ﺑﺎﻟﻔﺮﺻﺔ اﻟﻤﺘﺎﺣﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﺑﺎﻟﺠﻤﻊ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ‬

‫ﺧﺼﻴﺼ ًﺎ ﻟﻜﻢ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺘﻬﺎ ا ﺑﺮز ‪ SKULL‬ﻃﺒﻘﺎت اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ ﺗﺸﻜّ ﻞ ﺷﻜﻞ‬

‫اﻟﻤﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻲ واﻟﺘﺼﻨﻴﻊ اﻟﻴﺪوي وﺑﻴﻦ ﺣﺒﻬﺎ ﻟ ﻧﻤﺎط وا ﺷﻐﺎل اﻟﻤﻌﻘﺪة‪.‬‬

‫اﻟﺠﻤﺠﻤﺔ‪ ،‬وﺗﻌﻜﺲ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺎت ا¬ﻟﻴﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻛﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﺗُﺰ ﻳّﻦ وﺗﺠﻤﻊ ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ‬

‫ﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﺑﺤﺪﺳﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗﺴﺘﺠﻴﺐ ﻟﻠﻤﻮاد واﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺎت أو اﻟﻤﻮﺿﻮﻋﺎت‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺨﺘﺎرﻫﺎ ﻟﻼﺳﺘﻜﺸﺎف‪ .‬ﻟﺪﻳﻬﺎ ﻋﻴﻦ ﻻﻗﻄﺔ ﻟﻠﺘﻔﺎﺻﻴﻞ‬

‫ﻣﻤﺎ ﻳﻌﻄﻲ ﺗﺤﻔﺔ ﻓﻨﻴﺔ ﻓﺮﻳﺪة ﻏﻨﻴﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ اﻟﻤﻮروﺛﺔ واﻟﺪراﻳﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﺮﻣﻮز‪.‬‬

‫وﺗﺘﻌﺎون ﻣﻊ اﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﻴﻦ واﻟﻤﻮردﻳﻦ اﻟﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﺒﺤﺜﻮن ﻋﻦ‬ ‫اﺗﺒﺎع ﻧﻬﺞ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻒ أﻛﺜﺮ ﺷﺨﺼﺎﻧﻴﺔ وﺷﺎﻋﺮﻳﺔ ﻓﻲ‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪SKULL‬‬

‫ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ .‬ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻗﺎدرة ﻋﻠﻰ اﻻﻋﺘﻤﺎد ﻋﻠﻰ‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ SKULL‬اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ا ﺑﺮز ﻣﻦ ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻛﺮوﺟﺮ ﻣﺴﺘﻮﺣﺎة‬

‫ﺧﻠﻔﻴﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﺪراﺳﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻔﻨﻮن اﻟﺠﻤﻴﻠﺔ‪ ،‬وﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﺪرب‬

‫ﻣﻦ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺠﻤﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﺴﺎﺑﻊ ﻋﺸﺮ ﻟﻤﺎري ﻣﻠﻜﺔ‬

‫ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﺘﺼﻤﻴﻢ وﻋﻠﻰ ﺗﺠﺮﺑﺔ اﻟﻌﻤﻞ اﻟﺪوﻟﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ أﺟﻞ‬

‫اﻻﺳﻜﺘﻠﻨﺪﻳﻴﻦ‪ ،‬وﻣﻦ اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎﻻت اﻟﻤﻜﺴﻴﻜﻴﺔ ‪Dia de Los‬‬

‫اﻟﺘﻮﺻﻞ إﻟﻰ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﺘﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺤﻠﻮل ا¨ﺑﺪاﻋﻴﺔ‬

‫‪ Muertos‬وﻣﻦ ا¬ﻟﻴﺎت اﻟﻤﻬﻴﻜﻠﺔ اﻟﻤﺰﻳﻨﺔ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﺟﻤﻴﻞ‬

‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻨﺎﺳﺐ ﻣﻊ ﻛﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺣﺪا‪ .‬ﺗﻢ إﻃﻼق أول‬

‫واﻟﺤﺎﺿﺮة ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة اﻟﻴﻮم‪ .‬ﺗﺘﻮاﻓﺮ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻟﻬﺎ‪ ،SKULL ،‬وﺗﻤﺜﻞ ﻧﻘﻄﺔ اﻟﺒﺪاﻳﺔ ﻟﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ‬

‫ﺑﺎﻧﺘﺎج ﻣﺤﺪود ﻣﻦ ‪ ١٢‬ﻗﻄﻌﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ‬

‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت ﺗﺘﻤﺤﻮر ﺣﻮل اﻟﻤﻮاﺿﻴﻊ اﻟﻤﺮادﻓﺔ ﻟﻠﻮﻗﺖ‪.‬‬

‫ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا‪ ،‬وآﻟﻴﺘﻬﺎ ﻣﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮﻳﺔ ﻣﻊ اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ‬ ‫ﻃﺎﻗﺔ ﻟﺨﻤﺴﺔ أﻳﺎم‪ .‬وﻣﻴﻨﺎ ‪ SKULL‬اﻟﻤﺰﻳﻨﺔ ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ ﺑﺜﻼث ﻃﺒﻘﺎت‬

‫ﻋﻦ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ‬ ‫أﻋﺎدت ﺳﺎﻋﺎت ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻛﺮوﺟﺮ ﺗﻔﺴﻴﺮ ﻣﻮﺿﻮع اﻟﻮﻓﻴﺎت ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ ،‬ﻣﺴﺘﻮﺣﻴﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺠﻤﺠﻤﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻘﺮن‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎﺑﻊ ﻋﺸﺮ ﻟﻤﺎري ﻣﻠﻜﺔ اﻻﺳﻜﺘﻠﻨﺪﻳﻴﻦ‪ ،‬وﻣﻦ اﻻﺣﺘﻔﺎﻻت‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻜﺴﻴﻜﻴﺔ ‪ Dia de Los Muertos‬وﻣﻦ ا¬ﻟﻴﺎت اﻟﻤﻬﻴﻜﻠﺔ‬

‫ﺗﺴﻤﺢ ﺑﺮؤﻳﺔ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ا¬ﻟﻴﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗﺒﺮز اﻟﻤﻈﻬﺮ اﻟﻤﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻲ‬ ‫ﻟﻠﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ .‬وﻏﻼﻓﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷﻜﻞ ﺟﻤﺠﻤﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ اﻟﻤﻘﺎوم ﻟﻠﺼﺪأ‬ ‫ﻣﺼﻘﻮل ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ أﻣﺎ ﺣﺰاﻣﻬﺎ ﻓﻤﻦ اﻟﺠﻠﺪ اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮع ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ أﻳﻀ ًﺎ ﻓﺄﻳﻀﺎً‪.‬‬ ‫ﻫﺬا ا¨ﺻﺪار اﻟﻤﻤﻴﺰ‪ ،‬ﻧﻘﻄﺔ اﻧﻄﻼق ﻟﺴﻠﺴﻠﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻠﻬﻤﺔ‬ ‫واﻟﻤﺨﻄﻂ اﻟﺬي ﺗﻨﻄﻠﻖ ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻣﻨﻪ ﻟﺘﻄﻮﻳﺮ ﺗﺼﺎﻣﻴﻢ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة‪.‬‬

‫اﻟﻤﺰﻳﻨﺔ ﺑﺸﻜﻞ ﺟﻤﻴﻞ واﻟﺤﺎﺿﺮة ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻔﺎﺧﺮة اﻟﻴﻮم‪ .‬ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ‬ ‫ﻫﻲ ﻧﻔﺴﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ اﺳﻜﺘﻠﻨﺪا‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ أﻧﻬﺎ أﻣﻀﺖ ﺛﻼﺛﺔ أﻋﻮام ﻣﻦ ﻃﻔﻮﻟﺘﻬﺎ‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪BLACK SKULL‬‬

‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻜﺴﻴﻚ‪ .‬ﻟﺬا ﻳﻤﻜﻦ ﺗﻠﻤﺲ ﺗﺮاﺛﻬﺎ اﻻﺳﻜﺘﻠﻨﺪي اﻟﺨﺎص واﻟﺨﺒﺮات‬

‫إن ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ BLACK SKULL‬ﻫﻲ أﺣﺪث ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻟﻔﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻛﺮوﺟﺮ‪ ،‬إﻧﻬﺎ ﺗﻄﻮﻳﺮ‬

‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﻋﺎﺷﺘﻬﺎ أﺛﻨﺎء ﻋﻤﻠﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻠﺪان ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔﺔ‪ ،‬وذﻟﻚ ﻣﻦ ﺧﻼل اﻟﺠﻤﺎﻟﻴﺎت‬

‫ﻟﺴﺎﻋﺘﻬﺎ ا ﺑﺮز ‪ SKULL‬وﺗﻌﻴﺪ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺗﻔﺴﻴﺮ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﻤﺬﻛﻮرة‪.‬‬

‫ﻓﻲ ﻛﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ‪ .‬ﺗﺴﻠﻂ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮة اﻟﻀﻮء ﻋﻠﻰ ﻗﻴﻢ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ‬

‫ﺗﺘﻮاﻓﺮ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ﺑﺎﻧﺘﺎج ﻣﺤﺪود ﻣﻦ ‪ ١٢‬ﻗﻄﻌﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻣﻨﻬﺎ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ‬

‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻠﻔﺖ اﻧﺘﺒﺎﻫﻨﺎ ﻓﻲ آﻟﻴﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ‪ -‬ﻗﻠﺐ أي ﻗﻄﻌﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﻏﺎﻟﺒ ًﺎ ﻣﺎ ﺗﻜﻮن ﺧﻔﻴﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ ﻓﻲ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮا‪ ،‬وآﻟﻴﺘﻬﺎ ﻣﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻴﺔ ﺳﻮﻳﺴﺮﻳﺔ ﻣﻊ اﺣﺘﻴﺎﻃﻲ ﻃﺎﻗﺔ ﻟﺨﻤﺴﺔ أﻳﺎم‪ .‬وﻣﻴﻨﺎ‬

‫وﻣﻊ ﺷﻐﻔﻬﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﺤﺮﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﻴﺪوﻳﺔ وﺑﺎﻟﺘﻘﺎﻟﻴﺪ اﻟﻤﻮروﺛﺔ ﺗﻄﻮر ﻛﻞ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ ﻣﻊ‬

‫‪ BLACK SKULL‬اﻟﻤﺰﻳﻨﺔ ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ ﺑﺜﻼث ﻃﺒﻘﺎت اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺴﻤﺢ ﺑﺮؤﻳﺔ ﺟﻤﺎﻟﻴﺔ ا¬ﻟﻴﺔ ﺗﺤﺘﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗﺒﺮز‬

‫اﻟﺮﻏﺒﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺗﺴﻠﻴﻂ اﻟﻀﻮء ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻬﺎرات اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪﻣﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺻﻨﻌﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻣﻤﺎ أدى إﻟﻰ ﺗﺼﺎﻣﻴﻢ‬

‫ﺗﻢ ﺗﺰﻳﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﻴﻨﺎ واﻟﻌﻘﺎرب ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ‬ ‫وﺗﻢ ﺗﺴﻮﻳﺪ ﺟﺴﻮر ا¬ﻟﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﻛﻤﺎ ّ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻈﻬﺮ اﻟﻤﻴﻜﺎﻧﻴﻜﻲ ﻟﻠﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ّ .‬‬

‫ﻣﻔﺼﻠﺔ ﻟﻠﻐﺎﻳﺔ وﻣﻌﻘﺪة‪ .‬ﺗﻌﻤﻞ ﻓﻴﻮﻧﺎ ﻣﻊ ﺣﺮﻓﻴﻴﻦ ﻣﺤﺪدﻳﻦ ﻻﺑﺘﻜﺎر ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﻣﻦ ﺻﻨﺎع‬ ‫ّ‬

‫ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻮﺑﺮﻟﻮﻣﻴﻨﻮﻓﺎ‪ .‬وﻏﻼﻓﻬﺎ ﻋﻠﻰ ﺷﻜﻞ ﺟﻤﺠﻤﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ اﻟﻤﻘﺎوم ﻟﻠﺼﺪأ اﻟﻤﺼﻘﻮل ﻳﺪوﻳ ًﺎ‬

‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺴﻮﻳﺴﺮﻳﻴﻦ ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻳﺨﺺ ا¬ﻟﻴﺎت‪ ،‬إﻟﻰ ﺣﺮﻓﻴﻲ اﻟﺠﻠﻮد اﻟﻤﺤﻠﻴﻴﻦ ﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻳﺘﻌﻠﻖ‬

‫وﻣﻐﻄﻰ ﺑﻤﺎدة اﻟـ ‪ PVD‬اﻟﺴﻮداء أﻣﺎ ﺣﺰاﻣﻬﺎ ﻓﻤﻦ اﻟﺠﻠﺪ ا ﺳﻮد اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮع ﻳﺪوﻳﺎً‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 36‬‬

‫‪CLOSE UP‬‬

‫عن قرب‬

‫‪SeculuS‬‬ ‫كما جبال سويسرا !‬ ‫تماما مثل‬ ‫الجبال الثالثة في‬ ‫وسط سويسرا‬ ‫ الـ«ويونغفراو»‪،‬‬‫الـ«مونخ» والـ «إيغر»‪،‬‬ ‫فإن الحفر على‬ ‫الساعات سويسرية‬ ‫الصنع ‪ Seculus‬يبرز‬ ‫قدرة على التحمل‪،‬‬ ‫الخلود والكمال‪ ،‬كما‬ ‫أن ‪ Seculus‬تنقل‬ ‫التقاليد في معناها‬ ‫األكثر اكتماالً‪ ،‬وتهدف‬ ‫إلى إنتاج الساعات‬ ‫الوحيدة التي تعكس‬ ‫بحثها عن التميز‬ ‫والمتانة واألهم‬ ‫من ذلك كله‪ ،‬رضا‬ ‫ا لمستهلكين ‪.‬‬

‫مجموعة ‪ DNA CARBONE‬والتي سوف‬ ‫تطلق في معرض بازل وورلد‬

‫بازل ورلد ‪2015‬‬ ‫وجدت ماركة ‪ Seculus‬المكان المثالي لتصنيع ساعاتها‪ .‬انها شركة مختصة بصناعة‬

‫كانت ‪ Seculus Swiss Made‬دائم ًا تسعى لتحقيق الكمال‪ ،‬وتكريم اإلرث التقليدي‬

‫الساعات التقليدية في سويسرا‪ ،‬والمعروفة بحرفيتها منذ القرن التاسع عشر‪ .‬بسبب الدراية‬

‫الممتد في الزمن من حيث خبرة الساعاتيين السويسريين‪ ،‬وقد دعّ مت هذا اإلرث العريق‬

‫الممتازة والخبرة الكبيرة‪ ،‬تمثل هذه الشركة التقليد التراثي بأعلى درجات الديناميكية‪.‬‬

‫بالتكنولوجيا األكثر حداثة وبضمان الجودة العالية‪ .‬التحمل‪ ،‬والخلود والكمال صفات ثالثة‬

‫يشتق اسم ‪ Seculus‬من الالتينية‪ ،‬ومعناه جميل جدا ً ذات عالقة بالوقت واالستمرارية‪ .‬في‬

‫حاضرة من منتجات الماركة‪ ،‬في ‪ DNA CARBONE‬إحدى المجموعات الجديدة التي‬

‫البداية‪ ،‬كانت ساعات ‪ Seculus‬موجهة للسوق البرازيلية‪ ،‬وسرعان ما أصبحت واحدة من‬

‫ستطلقها ‪ Seculus‬في معرض بازل ورلد‪.‬‬

‫أكثر الماركات المرغوبة‪ .‬على إثر هذا النجاح‪ ،‬بدأت ‪ Seculus‬التصدير إلى أميركا الجنوبية‬

‫موضع زجاجة ألداة تحديد المسافات من األلومنيوم يحيط بالمينا ذات التقنية العالية‬

‫وأوروبا‪ .‬وقد أطلقت الساعات ‪ Seculus Swiss Made‬في أوروبا الشرقية وروسيا في‬

‫المصنوعة من ألياف الكربون‪ ،‬وغالف من الفوالذ مقاوم للماء حتى عمق مئة متر‪.‬‬

‫العام ‪ 1992‬وعبّدت طريقها بنجاح إلى الشرق األوسط أيضاً‪ .‬في الوقت الحاضر‪ ،‬يمكن أيض ًا‬

‫وهذه الساعة الرياضية المستوحاة من السباقات مجهزة بز رّي ضغط عند موضع‬

‫شراء الساعات ‪ Seculus Swiss Made‬في الصين وبلدان أخرى في الشرق األقصى‪.‬‬

‫الساعة ‪ ،2‬وحزامها من الجلد األسود الراقي في خياطته والمرفق بمشبك قابل‬

‫في بداية العام ‪ ،2012‬تلبية لرغبات المتحمسين األكثر تطلب ًا للتكنولوجيا واإلبتكار‬

‫للطي‪ .‬ناهيك عن فتحة للتاريخ عند موضع الساعة ‪ ،3‬وعدادات متطورة وعقارب‬

‫الجمالي الرياضي‪ ،‬أثرت ‪ Seculus‬مجموعتها بخط من الساعات الحصرية المقاومة للماء‬

‫‪.Superluminova‬‬

‫والمصنوعة من الفوالذ المقاوم للصدأ‪ :‬انها مجموعة ‪ Royal Marine‬التي أطلقت في‬

‫وقد تم تصميم مجموعة ‪ DNA Carbone‬وتطويرها وتصنيعها وفق ًا ألعلى المعايير‪.‬‬

‫سلسلة طبعة محدودة في حجمين‪ 48 :‬ملم و ‪ 42‬ملم‪ .‬وأضيفت إلى مجموعة ‪Royal‬‬

‫وأضحت ‪ Seculus‬نبض أحدث االتجاهات ومواكبة للتقدم التقني والوظائف الميكانيكية‪،‬‬

‫‪ Marine‬األوتوماتيكية نسخة خاصة بالسيدات بحجم ‪ 37‬ملم‪.‬‬

‫المنتَج‪.‬‬ ‫وضمان حياة مديدة للرضا عن ُ‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 38‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Corum Golden Bridge Ceramic‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon‬‬ ‫اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻀﻤﻦ ﺧﺰﻓ ًﺎ أﺑﻴﺾ أﻗﺴﻰ ﺑﺘﺴﻊ ﻣﺮات ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ‪.‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Esenza Ceramic Touch‬ﻣﻦ ‪ Rado‬ﺑﻐﻼﻓﻬﺎ وﺳﻮارﻫﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﻴﻦ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف ا·ﺑﻴﺾ‪.‬‬

‫أﻧﻬﺎ ﻛﺸﻔﺖ اﻟﻨﻘﺎب ﻋﻦ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ‪ Ceramos‬اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﺘﻄﻮّ ر اﻟﺒﻼﺗﻴﻨﻲ اﻟﻠﻮن‪.‬‬ ‫وإﻟﻰ ذﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﺗﺴﺘﻤﺮ ﻣﺎرﻛﺎت ﺳﺎﻋﺎت أﺧﺮى ﺑﺈﺟﺮاء ﺗﺠﺎرب ﺑﺎﻟﺨﺰف وﻣﻌﺎدن ﻣﺮﻛّ ﺒﺔ وﻣﺆﻛﺴﺪة‬ ‫أﺧﺮى ﻓﻲ ﻣﺤﺎوﻟﺔ ﻟﻠﺘﻮﺻﻞ إﻟﻰ أﻓﻀﻞ ﻟﻮن وأﻓﻀﻞ ﻗﺴﺎوة‪ .‬ﻓﻤﺜﻼً‪ ،‬ﻛﺸﻔﺖ دار ‪Audemars‬‬ ‫‪ Piguet‬ﻋﻦ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ ﺳﺎﻋﺘﻬﺎ اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺒﻴﻀﺎء اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ‪Royal Oak Concept GMT‬‬ ‫‪ Tourbillon‬ﻣﻨﺬ ﻧﺤﻮ ﺳﻨﺔ‪ ،‬وﻳﻌﺘﺒﺮ اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﺘﻄﻮّ ر اﻟﺬي ﻗﺪّ ﻣﺘﻪ اﻟﺸﺮﻛﺔ أﻗﺴﻰ ﺑﺴﺘﻊ‬ ‫ﻣﺮات ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ وﻗﺪ ﺣﻘّ ﻖ ﺑﺎﻟﺘﺎﻟﻲ رﻗﻤ ًﺎ ﻗﻴﺎﺳﻴ ًﺎ ﺑﺎﻟﻨﺴﺒﺔ إﻟﻰ ﻗﻄﻊ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف‪ .‬وﻧﻼﺣﻆ ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬه اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ أن ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺰﺟﺎﺟﺔ وا·زرار واﻟﺘﺎج واﻟﺠﺴﺮ اﻟﻌﻠﻮي‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Lady 8 White Ceramic‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ‪.Jaquet Droz‬‬

‫ﻫﻲ ﺟﻤﻴﻌﻬﺎ ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف ا·ﺑﻴﺾ‪ .‬ﺑﺎﻟﻤﻘﺎﺑﻞ‪ ،‬دﺧﻠﺖ ﻣﺎرﻛﺎت أﺧﺮى ﻣﺠﺎل ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ ﺑﻤﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ‪ Hublot‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﻃﻮّ رت ﺧﺰﻓ ًﺎ ﺑﺄﻟﻮان ﻏﺮﻳﺒﺔ ﺑﻤﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ‬ ‫ا·ﺻﻔﺮ وا·زرق وﺣﺘﻰ ا·ﺣﻤﺮ‪ .‬ﻛﺬﻟﻚ‪ ،‬أﻃﻠﻘﺖ ‪ Hublot‬ﻣﺎدةً ﻫﻲ ﻣﺰﻳﺞ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف وأﻟﻴﺎف‬ ‫اﻟﻜﺮﺑﻮن ودﺧﻠﺖ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺎدة ﻓﻲ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻢ أﺣﺪث ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ ‪ .Big Bang Ferrari‬أﻣﺎ ‪Rolex‬‬ ‫و ‪ ،Omega‬ﻓﺘﻘﺪّ ﻣﺎن ﻣﻨﺘﺠﺎت ﻣﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﺨﺘﺺ‪ .‬ﻓﻤﺜﻼً‪ ،‬ﻣﻨﺬ اﻟﻌﺎم ‪ ،٢٠٠٥‬ﺗﻘﺪم‬ ‫روﻟﻜﺲ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ زﺟﺎﺟﺔ ﺣﺼﺮي ﺧﺎص ﺑﻬﺎ ﻳﻌﺮف ﺑﺎﺳﻢ ‪ .Cerachrome‬أﻣﺎ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺰﺟﺎﺟﺔ‪،‬‬ ‫ﻓﻴﺄﺗﻲ ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻮن ا·ﺳﻮد‪ ،‬إﻧﻪ ﻣﺼﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ ﻣﺰﻳﺞ ﺧﺎص ﺑﺎﻟﺪار ﻳﺘﻀﻤﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف وﻳﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺑﻜﻮﻧﻪ‬ ‫ﻗﺎﺳﻴ ًﺎ وﻣﻘﺎوﻣ ًﺎ ﻟﻠﺨﺪوش‪ ،‬وﻳﺄﺗﻲ ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻮن ا·زرق اﻟﺪاﻛﻦ‪ .‬أﻣﺎ اﻟﻴﻮم‪ ،‬ﻓﺘﻘﺪّ م اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺔ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫‪ GMT Master II‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ ﺑﻤﻮﺿﻊ زﺟﺎﺟﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻠﻮن ا·زرق اﻟﻘﻮي وا·ﺳﻮد واﻟﻠﻮﻧﻴﻦ ا·ﺣﻤﺮ‬ ‫وا·زرق اﻟﺸﻬﻴﺮﻳﻦ اﻟﻠﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﻌﺮﻓﺎن ﺑﺎﺳﻢ ‪ .Pepsi‬ﻣﻦ ﺟﻬﺘﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺗﺠﻤﻊ أوﻣﻴﻐﺎ ﺑﻴﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف‬ ‫واﻟﺬﻫﺐ اﻟﺴﺎﺋﻞ اﻟﻤﺘﻄﻮّ ر اﻟﺨﺎرق ﻓﻲ ﺑﻌﺾ ﻣﻮاﺿﻊ اﻟﺰﺟﺎج ﻓﻲ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ‪ ،‬ﺑﻤﺎ ﻓﻴﻬﺎ ﺳﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫‪ SeaMaster Planet Ocean‬ﺑﻤﺎ أن اﻟﻤﺎدﺗﻴﻦ ﺗﺘﻤﺘﻌﺎن ﺑﺎﻟﻘﺪرة ﻋﻠﻰ ﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺔ ﺟﻨﻮن اﻟﺒﺤﺮ‬ ‫وﺿﻐﻂ اﻟﻤﻴﺎه اﻟﻠﺬﻳﻦ ﻳﺆﺛﺮان ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻮاد اﻟﺸﺎﺋﻌﺔ‪ .‬ﻓﻲ ﻫﺬا ا ﻃﺎر‪ ،‬ﻳﻘﻮل ﺟﺎن ﻛﻠﻮد ﺑﻴﻔﻴﺮ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ‪ LVMH‬واﻟﺮﺋﻴﺲ اﻟﺘﻨﻔﻴﺬي ﻟـ ‪» :Hublot‬ﻳﺠﺐ أن ﻧﻌﺘﻨﻖ اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ‪ ،‬وﻳﻜﻤﻦ‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺴﺘﻘﺒﻞ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻤﻮاد اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ا ﺿﺎﻓﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﻔﺎﻫﻴﻢ اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة«‪ .‬وﻛﻤﺎ ﺳﺒﻖ أن ذﻛﺮﻧﺎ‪ ،‬ﻟﻴﺲ‬ ‫ﻣﻦ اﻟﺴﻬﻞ ﺻﻨﻊ اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﺮاﺋﺪ اﻟﻌﺎﻟﻲ اﻟﺠﻮدة‪ ،‬إذ أﻧﻪ ﻳﻌﺪّ ل ﻫﻨﺪﺳﻴ ًﺎ ﻟﻴﻄﺎﺑﻖ ﻣﻮاﺻﻔﺎت دﻗﻴﻘﺔ‬ ‫وﺻﺎرﻣﺔ ﺟﺪا ً ﻓﻲ أﻋﻠﻰ ﻫﺮﻣﻴﺔ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ ،‬ا·ﻣﺮ اﻟﺬي ﻳﺘﺮﺟﻢ ﺑﺄﻛﺴﻴﺪ اﻟﺰﻳﺮﻛﻮن‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺎم أو اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﻌﺪّ ل ﺑﻄﺮﻳﻘﺔ ﺧﺎﺻﺔ‪.‬‬ ‫ﺑﺎﻻﻧﺘﻘﺎل إﻟﻰ ﻓﺌﺎت اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﺘﻮﺳﻄﺔ‪ ،‬ﺗﻘﻮم ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺎت ﺑﺪﻣﺞ أو ﺗﻄﻌﻴﻢ أﺟﺰاﺋﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﻔﻮﻻذ ﻟﺘﻌﺰﻳﺰ ﻣﺘﺎﻧﺘﻬﺎ ﺑﻤﺎ أﻧﻬﺎ ﻟﻴﺴﺖ ﺳﺎﻋﺎت راﻗﻴﺔ‪ .‬وﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﺑﻌﺾ اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺎت‬ ‫ﻣﺜﻞ ‪) Baume et Mercier‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪم اﻟﺨﺰف ﻓﻲ ﻣﻮﺿﻊ اﻟﺰﺟﺎﺟﺔ ﻓﻲ ﺑﻌﺾ ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ‬ ‫اﻟﺠﺪﻳﺪة ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ ‪ (Promesse‬و ‪ Fendi‬وﻏﻴﺮﻫﺎ‪ ،‬ﻫﺬا اﻟﻨﻮع ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ ﻣﻮاﺿﻊ‬ ‫اﻟﺰﺟﺎﺟﺎت واﻟﺘﻔﺎﺻﻴﻞ ﻓﻲ ﺣﻠﻘﺎت ا·ﺳﺎور‪ .‬ﻛﺬﻟﻚ‪ ،‬ﺗﻌﺘﺮف اﻟﻤﺎرﻛﺎت اﻟﺮﻳﺎﺿﻴﺔ ﻣﺜﻞ& ‪Bell‬‬ ‫‪ Ross‬و ‪ ،TAG Heuer‬ﺑﻤﺰاﻳﺎ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺎدة اﻟﻤﺮﻧﺔ واﻟﻤﻘﺎوﻣﺔ ﻟﻠﺨﺪوش وﺗﺴﺘﺨﺪﻣﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺎﺗﻬﺎ‪ .‬وﻓﻴﻤﺎ ﻗﺪ ﻳﻜﻮن اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﺴﺘﺨﺪم ﻓﻲ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺮاﻗﻴﺔ ﻣﺨﺘﻠﻔ ًﺎ ﻃﺒﻌ ًﺎ ﻣﻦ ﺣﻴﺚ‬ ‫اﻟﻌﻴﺎر واﻟﻨﻮﻋﻴﺔ‪ ،‬ﻻ ﺷﻚ أﻧﻪ ﺳﻴﻤﻨﺢ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ‪ ،‬أﻓﺨﻤﺔً ﻛﺎﻧﺖ أم ﻋﺼﺮﻳﺔ‪ ،‬ﻣﻈﻬﺮا ً ﻻﻣﻌ ًﺎ وﻣﻤﻴﺰا ً‬ ‫ﻳﺤﺎﻓﻆ ﻋﻠﻰ ﻟﻤﻌﺎﻧﻪ وﺟﻤﺎﻟﻪ ﻟﺴﻨﻮات ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ‪.‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon‬ﻣﻦ ‪ Omega‬اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ‬ ‫ﺑﻐﻼف ﺧﺰﻓﻲ ﻳﻮﺿﻊ ﻓﻲ ﻗﻠﺐ ﻓﺮن ﻋﺎﻟﻲ اﻟﺤﺮارة‪.‬‬

‫‪41 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH‬‬

‫‪TECHNICAL‬‬ ‫ﺗﻘﻨﻴﺎت‬

‫ﺧﺰف اﻟﻘﺮن‬ ‫اﻟﺤﺎدي‬ ‫واﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‬ ‫ﺗﺘﻤﻴّﺰ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﻌﺼﺮﻳﺔ ﺑﻜﻮﻧﻬﺎ أﻛﺜﺮ ﻗﺴﺎوة‬ ‫وﻣﻘﺎوﻣﺔً ﻟﻠﺨﺪوش ﻣﻦ أي وﻗﺖ ﻣﻀﻰ‪.‬‬

‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Big Bang Ferrari White Carbon Ceramic‬ﻣﻦ ‪.Hublot‬‬

‫ﻋﻨﺪ ﺳﻤﺎع ﻛﻠﻤﺔ »اﻟﺨﺰف«‪ ،‬ﻻ ﻧﻔﻜّ ﺮ ﺑﺎﻟﻀﺮورة ﺑﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻌﺼﻢ‪ ،‬ﺑﻞ رﺑﻤﺎ ﻧﻔﻜﺮ ﺑﺎﻟﺼﺤﻮن‬ ‫أو ﺳﻜﺎﻛﻴﻦ اﻟﻤﻄﺒﺦ اﻟﺤﺎدة‪ .‬ﻓﻔﻲ اﻟﻨﻬﺎﻳﺔ‪ ،‬ﻛﻠﻤﺔ اﻟﺨﺰف ﺑﺎﻟﻼﺗﻴﻨﻴﺔ ﻣﺸﺘﻘﺔ ﻣﻦ ﻛﻠﻤﺔ‬ ‫»ﻛﻴﺮاﻣﻮس« ا ﻏﺮﻳﻘﻴﺔ اﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﻨﻲ »ﻣﻦ أو ﻟﻠﻔﺨﺎر«‪.‬‬ ‫ﻓﻲ اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‪ ،‬ﻇﻬﺮت ﻣﺎدة اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﻌﺪّ ﻟﺔ ﻫﻨﺪﺳﻴ ًﺎ ودﺧﻠﺖ اﻟﺴﺒﺎق اﻟﻔﻀﺎﺋﻲ وﻋﺎﻟﻢ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﻴﺎرات ﺑﻔﻀﻞ أﺳﻄﻮاﻧﺎت اﻟﻤﻜﺎﺑﺢ اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ‪ .‬ﻛﺬﻟﻚ‪ ،‬أﺻﺒﺢ اﻟﺨﺰف ﻣﺎدة أﺳﺎﺳﻴﺔ ﻓﻲ‬ ‫ﻣﺠﺎﻟﻲ اﻟﻄﺐ وا ﻟﻜﺘﺮوﻧﻴﺎت‪ .‬وﻟﻜﻦ ﻓﻲ ﻋﺎﻟﻢ ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﻌﺎﺻﺮ‪ ،‬ﻗﻄﻊ اﻟﺨﺰف‬ ‫ﻣﺴﺎﻓﺎت ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ ﻣﻨﺬ إﻃﻼﻗﻪ ﻓﻲ ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴﻨﻴﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‪ ،‬وﻟﻘﺪ أﺻﺒﺢ ﻣﻦ أﻛﺜﺮ اﻟﻤﻮاد‬ ‫اﻟﻤﺘﻄﻮّ رة اﻟﻤﻄﻠﻮﺑﺔ ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ .‬وﻳﺸﺎر إﻟﻰ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺎدة ﺑﺎﺳﻢ اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﻌﺪّ ل‬ ‫ﻫﻨﺪﺳﻴﺎً‪ ،‬وﻏﺎﻟﺒ ًﺎ ﻣﺎ ﺗﻜﻮن ﻣﺰﻳﺠ ًﺎ ﻣﻦ أﻛﺴﻴﺪ اﻟﺰرﻳﻜﻮن وﻛﺎرﺑﻴﺪ اﻟﺘﻴﺘﺎﻧﻴﻮم واﻟﻨﻴﺘﺮﻳﺪ‪ .‬وﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ‬ ‫ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺎدة اﻟﻼﻋﻀﻮﻳﺔ وﻏﻴﺮ اﻟﻤﻌﺪﻧﻴﺔ ﻗﻮﻳﺔً ﺟﺪا ً وأﻛﺜﺮ ﻗﺴﺎوةً ﻣﻦ اﻟﻔﻮﻻذ ﺑﺄرﺑﻊ ﻣﺮات‪،‬‬ ‫وأﺧﻒ وزﻧ ًﺎ وﺗﺪوم ﻟﻤﺪة ﻃﻮﻳﻠﺔ وﻣﺮﻳﺤﺔ ﺟﺪا ً ﻋﻠﻰ اﻟﻤﻌﺼﻢ‪ .‬وﺗﺠﻌﻞ ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺰاﻳﺎ ﻛﻠﻬﺎ ﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻫﺬا اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﺎدة ا·ﻣﺜﻞ ﻟﺼﻨﺎﻋﺔ أﻏﻠﻔﺔ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت وأﺳﺎورﻫﺎ‪ .‬إﻻ أن ﺻﻨﻊ ﻫﺬا اﻟﺨﺰف ﻟﻴﺲ‬ ‫ﺑﺎ·ﻣﺮ اﻟﺴﻬﻞ إذ أﻧﻪ ﻳﺘﻄﻠّﺐ ﻣﻌﺪات ﺛﻮرﻳﺔ وﺣﺪﻳﺜﺔ ﻣﺠﻬّ ﺰة ﺑﻤﻌﺪات ﻣﺎﺳﻴﺔ اﻟﺮأس‪ .‬وﻻ‬ ‫ﻧﻨﺴﻰ ﻃﺒﻌ ًﺎ أن اﻟﺨﺰف ﻳﺘﻤﺘﻊ ﺑﻤﺠﻤﻮﻋﺔ واﺳﻌﺔ ﺟﺪا ً ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﺰاﻳﺎ واﻟﺨﺼﺎل ﻓﻲ ﻣﺠﺎل ﺻﻨﺎﻋﺔ‬ ‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت‪ ،‬ﻓﻨﺠﺪ اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﻤﻮاد اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﻐﻄﺴﺔ إﻟﻰ اﻟﺨﺰف اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮع‬ ‫ﻣﻦ أﻛﺴﻴﺪ اﻟﺰﻳﺮﻛﻮن اﻟﺨﺎم‪.‬‬ ‫‪Rado‬‬ ‫ﺗﻢ إﻃﻼق اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺔ ا·وﻟﻰ اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف‬ ‫ﻓﻲ ﻣﻨﺘﺼﻒ ﺛﻤﺎﻧﻴﻨﻴﻴﺎت اﻟﻘﺮن اﻟﻌﺸﺮﻳﻦ‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫اﻟﻤﻌﺪّ ل ﻫﻨﺪﺳﻴ ًﺎ وﻛﺎﻧﺖ ﻣﻦ ﺗﻮﻗﻴﻊ دار ‪ ،Rado‬واﻋﺘﺒﺮ ﺗﺼﻤﻴﻤﻬﺎ ﺛﻮرﻳ ًﺎ ﻓﻲ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﻮﻗﺖ‪ .‬وﻣﻦ‬ ‫ﻣﻨﺎ ﻻ ﻳﻌﺮف ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪ Chanel J12‬اﻟﻤﺼﻨﻮﻋﺔ ﻣﻦ اﻟﺨﺰف ا·ﺑﻴﺾ واﻟﺘﻲ ﺗﻌﺘﺒﺮ ﻣﺮﺟﻌ ًﺎ ﻟﺠﻤﻴﻊ‬ ‫ﺳﺎﻋﺔ ‪Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic‬‬ ‫ﻣﻦ ‪.Jaeger-LeCoultre‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 40‬‬

‫اﻟﺴﺎﻋﺎت اﻟﺨﺰﻓﻴﺔ اﻟﺨﺎﺻﺔ ﺑﺎﻟﺴﻴﺪات ﻣﻨﺬ إﻃﻼﻗﻬﺎ ﻓﻲ اﻟﻌﺎم ‪٢٠٠٣‬؟ وﻟﻜﻦ ﻣﻨﺬ ذﻟﻚ اﻟﺤﻴﻦ‪،‬‬ ‫ﺗﻄﻮّ رت ﻫﺬه اﻟﻤﺎدة اﻟﺘﻘﻨﻴﺔ ﻛﺜﻴﺮا ً‪ .‬وﻣﺎ زاﻟﺖ دار رادو ﺗﺴﺘﻜﺸﻒ آﻓﺎﻗ ًﺎ ﺟﺪﻳﺪة ﺑﺎﻟﺨﺰف ﺣﺘﻰ‬

“My designs come from my passion, my passion for forms�

Emmanuel Dietrich Artist, Designer, Creator.

OT-1 optional Dietrich Carbon Strap

Dietrich Factory GmbH - Boesch 41 - 6300 Hueneberg - Switzerland - Tel: +41 41 711 04 20 - email: contact@dietrich.luxury - www.dietrich.luxury

‫‪ART TIME‬‬

‫صفحة بصفحة!‬

‫وقت الفن‬

‫من نانسي أولسون‬

‫قد تعرفون الفنان ماثيو ميلر الملقّ ب برجل دوار الشمس‪ ،‬من خالل هذه الصفحات‪:‬‬

‫فيضم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫حيث تتوفّ ر لوحات لفن الساعات للعرض والبيع؛ أما كتاب ‪Watches Book 100‬‬

‫إنه الرسام المبدع وراء سلسلة العام ‪ 2014‬االحتفالية لمناسبة سنة جامعي الساعات‪/‬‬

‫قاس‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫مجموعة مختارة من لوحات الساعات والحكايات المرافقة لها‪ ،‬وهو كتاب بغالف‬

‫كل عدد‪ .‬ولكن اندماجه الفني بالساعات واعتبارها موضوع ًا‬ ‫النماذج األصلية التي تصدر مع ّ‬

‫يليق بالعرض؛ وال ننسى طبع ًا مد ّونة الساعات ‪ .Watches Blog‬وال عجب أن العالقة‬

‫لفنّه‪ ،‬األمر الذي انبثق أساس ًا من عمله في مجال الموضة‪ ،‬ما هو سوى أمر حديث إال أنه‬

‫بين الفرد وساعته تظهر بوضوح في التفاصيل كلها‪ ،‬منذ صفحات الكتاب المستخدمة‬

‫يتخطى حدود عدسة هذه المجلة بكثير! فميلر هو مهندس ‪Watches Project www.‬‬ ‫ّ‬

‫كخلفية للوحات‪ ،‬إلى حكايات التملّك الشخصية التي نشرت‪« .‬القراءة‪ ،‬الكتب‪ ،‬الكلمات‪،‬‬

‫‪. sunflowerman.com/watchesproject‬‬

‫كلها جزء من حياتنا اليومية‪ .‬وتبعث هذه الصفحات وهذه الكلمات شعورا ً بالراحة‪،‬‬

‫يقول ميلر‪« :‬في مشروع ‪ ،Watches 100‬يستطيع أي كان أن يرفع صورة للساعة المفضلة‬

‫شعورا ً بالتفاهم‪ .‬وأنا أعتبرها الخطوة األولى لملء الفجوة بين الفن والواقعية‪ .‬أما التحدي‬

‫لديه أو التي يجدها األكثر إثارة أو ربما التي تحمل ذكريات عاطفية‪ ،‬ويرفقها بنص يحكي‬

‫اآلخر فكان في دفع الناس إلى أن يرووا قصصهم‪ .‬عندما تشارك قصتك مع اآلخرين‪ ،‬قد‬

‫قصته مع الساعة»‪ .‬ويقوم بعد ذلك ميلر برسم الساعات المختارة كخلفيات لصفحات‬

‫تفكّ ر بتأن في الساعة التي تريد أن تتحدث عنها‪ ،‬وعندما يرى شخص آخر اللوحة‪ ،‬ال يرون‬

‫كتاب‪« .‬وصلتنا المئات من الصور وكان المشروع بالفعل حملةً بسيطة‪ .‬لم أقم باإلعالن‬

‫نسخةً بسيطة عنها على ورقة‪ ،‬بل يرون عالقاتهم الخاصة»‪ .‬وكما يفهم أي عاشق‬

‫عن المشروع إال عبر حسابي المتواضع على ‪ Instagram‬وتكفّ ل الناس بالباقي عبر إعادة‬

‫ساعات‪ ،‬غالب ًا ما تكون الساعة قطعة الزينة المختارة لتخليذ مناسبات خاصة ومراحل‬

‫ال عالقة ملموسة‬ ‫نشر الرسوم ومشاركتها مع رفاقهم‪ .‬وبحسب ميلر‪« ،‬الرسم هو فع ً‬

‫بارزة في الحياة‪ .‬ولقد قدّ م لنا المشاركون هذه القصص الشخصية جدا ً طوعاً‪« .‬في‬

‫بين البشر وعالم مبتكر»‪ .‬وبالتالي‪ ،‬فإنه يقول إن لوحاته المائية تهدف إلى «تحفيز الناظر‬

‫الكثير من المناسبات‪ ،‬رأينا أن األجداد واآلباء غالب ًا ما يورثون ساعاتهم للجيل التالي‪،‬‬

‫إلى رؤية ما وراء الرسم أو اللوحة‪ ،‬إلى رؤية نفسه»‪ .‬من هذا المنطلق‪ ،‬منح هذا المشروع‬

‫ربما لمناسبة التخ ّرج من كلية الحقوق‪ ،‬أو لمناسبة إنهاء تدريب قيادة الطيران‪ .‬ثم رأينا‬

‫ميلر الفرصة ليتع ّرف أكثر إلى الساعات والتواصل مع عالم كامل من عاشقي الساعات في‬

‫الساعات التي قدّ مت كهدايا زواج أو عربون الحب األزلي واالرتباط‪ .‬ومرارا ً وتكرارا ً‪ ،‬ركّ زت على‬

‫يضم هذا المشروع اليوم معرض المئة ساعة ‪Watches Gallery 100‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الوقت نفسه‪.‬‬

‫القصص التي وصلتنا على الناس‪ ،‬وكانت الساعات وسيلةً للتعبير عن قوة هذه العالقات»‪.‬‬

‫‪INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 42‬‬

FINESSE FINESSE

ORDINARYTO

EXTRA

ORDINARY Van Cleef & Arpels’ creativity soars

BY NANCY OLSON

Midnight Nuit Boréale

K

nown for its whimsical designs and well-practiced savoir-faire, Van Cleef & Arpels creates the Extraordinary Dials collection that ombines fine watchmaking with a masterful jeweler’s eye. Here, various decorative techniques, such as enameling, engraving and miniature painting, are employed to render each watch dial a singular—and yes, extraordinary—work of art.

This year’s Midnight Nuit Boréale and Midnight Nuit Australe look to the heavens for inspiration, rendering depictions of constellations and figures from Greek mythology.

Each timepiece uses grisaille enameling, a technique revived by Van Cleef & Arpels for use in its Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux timepiece introduced a few years ago.

Developed in Limoges, France, in the sixteenth century, grisaille uses just two shades of enamel to create a dramatic play of light and shadow. For the first firing of the dial, the background is coated with a very dark layer of enamel and polished to perfect smoothness. Then, using a brush or fine needle, the design is drawn using a finely ground white powdered enamel known as “Blanc de Limoges.” During the course of successive firings—about thirty in all—fine gradations emerge that create what appears to be an ethereal glow. The multiple steps involved add up to about seventy hours of work for each dial.

The Midnight Nuit Boréale focuses on the Northern Hemisphere. The depicted dragon alludes to the fearsome beast that watches over the Golden Fleece, while the swan refers to Zeus’ disguise in his plan to seduce Leda. The female figure represents Cassiopeia, imprisoned on her throne. Lastly, legend has it that the Great Bear and the Little Bear evoke the nymph Callisto, transformed by Hera and her son Arcas.

In tribute to the Southern hemisphere, the Midnight Nuit Australe pays homage to the observations of scientists and explorers from the sixteenth to the eighteenth centuries. While the Swordfish and Toucan constellations are inspired by the depictions of the Flemish astronomer and cartographer Petrus Plancius, the Telescope and Argo constellations refer to the work of the French astronomer Nicolas Louis de Lacaille.

Each 42mm white or pink gold watch is part of a limited edition of twenty-two pieces.

To complement the enamel dials, the watch crowns are set with enamel cabochons.

45 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Midnight Nuit Australe

“My designs come from my passion, my passion for forms�

Emmanuel Dietrich Artist, Designer, Creator.

OT-1 optional Dietrich Carbon Strap

Dietrich Factory GmbH - Boesch 41 - 6300 Hueneberg - Switzerland - Tel: +41 41 711 04 20 - email: contact@dietrich.luxury - www.dietrich.luxury

FINESSE FINESSE

ˮ

I doˮ Say

with

Harry Winston

1

T

hroughout his lifetime, Mr. Winston believed that behind every great diamond was a fascinating story. That diamonds, like people, were most precious for their individuality. And that our most meaningful moments should be marked with jewels so exquisite and rare that they would forever serve as glittering reminders of our most cherished memories. One of Mr. Winston’s greatest gifts was to impart his fascination with the beauty, the romance, the majesty and the mystique of great gemstones to a clientele that ranged from heads of state to Hollywood stars. Harry Winston’s renowned collection of rare jewels has been compared with those amassed by royal houses and governments alike.

Harry Winston Engagement Rings A Harry Winston diamond engagement ring starts with the diamond, as each ring is designed to showcase a particularly beautiful and unique stone to its best advantage. When side stones are used, careful consideration and thorough planning go into their selection—which is made by assessing their quality, similarity to each other, and ability to aesthetically complement and enhance the center stone.

Only then do Harry Winston designers and master craftsmen fashion a setting that will reveal each individual diamond’s heart and soul in a way that is at once contemporary, classic, and impeccably elegant. Constructed from platinum, our settings tightly secure the stones using the minimal amount of metal in order to maximize the fire, brilliance and scintillation of each diamond. At Harry Winston, the brand designers design their mountings proportionate to the stones, assuring a flawless fit.

Harry Winston’s iconic split-prongs, a signature design motif, are meticulously sculpted and polished to blend seamlessly into the ring’s design and ensure the safety of each stone in its setting. Harry Winston polishes all platinum surfaces of its engagement rings, including the under-bezel and ajours, to a dazzling mirror-like finish. Much consideration is given to the inside and the outside of each ring. At Harry Winston, what is unseen is as important as what is seen when it comes to the brand’s exceptionally crafted jewelry. The specialists rigorously examine each ring to ensure that it sits correctly and comfortably on the wearer’s hand. Each ring is then engraved with the HW hallmark, as well as a description of the metal fineness and carat weight of the ring’s center stone. No detail is overlooked.

A Harry Winston engagement ring is held to the highest and most exacting quality standards in the industry. Throughout every step of the process, the brand inspects each ring, beginning with the initial design and continuing to the moment before it is placed in our salon’s case. Harry Winston’s quality assurance professionals painstakingly pore over each ring, ensuring that it has been flawlessly crafted.

“No two diamonds are alike,” Mr. Winston once explained. “Each diamond has a different nature. Each diamond must be handled the way you handle a person.” The brand’s discriminating connoisseurship of gemstones has not changed, and every engagement ring we create is one-of-a-kind.

2

(1) Wedding Bands Harry Winston’s exquisite array of wedding bands pays tribute to the House’s enduring love affair with the world’s most incredible and memorable diamonds. The ultimate symbol for one of life’s most meaningful moments, the delicate details of these refined designs are as unique and rare as love itself, and showcase the endless beauty of the world’s most celebrated stones.

3

47 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

(2) Classic Winston Engagement ring with tapered baguette side stones From the iconic emerald-cut with its clean lines and sophisticated shape to round brilliant-cuts with sparkling facets of light, to elegant ovals and cushion-cuts, the Classic Winston engagement ring with tapered baguette side stones embodies the timeless elegance and signature style of the House. The refined design emphasizes delicate details: the subtlety of platinum prongs, the tapered platinum setting that supports the diamond visually and structurally, the near invisible underpinnings, and the grace of the ring shank. The Classic Winston Engagement Ring is offered with a round brilliant, pear-shaped, cushion, oval, radiant, or marquise-shaped center stone.

4

6

5

“A good diamond is a possession to be prized for generations.”

Mr. Harry Winston (3) The One Micropave Diamond Engagement ring Harry Winston’s The One micropavé engagement ring captures the enduring elegance and rare beauty of the world’s finest diamonds. Set in a delicate, feminine design, each ring is meticulously handcrafted using the timeless techniques that have long defined Winston’s legacy of unsurpassable style. Every diamond, weighing 1/100 of a carat, is carefully selected and graded to ensure it meets Harry Winston’s strict quality standards. These very small diamonds are then set by hand to create an entire setting that enhances and highlights the beauty of the center stone. The One Micropavé Diamond Ring is offered with a round brilliant, oval, or cushion-cut center stone.

(4) HW logo rings The quintessential symbol of love, this stunning collection continues the timeless tradition of Harry Winston bridal styles with an elegant, modern design. The ring setting features two logotypes, “H” and “W” representing the brand initials, as well as the titles “husband” and “wife” which support a round brilliant-cut diamond center stone. True to the quality of Winston craftsmanship, each setting is custom designed for the individual stone. Handcrafted in platinum, the design further accentuates the purity and inherent beauty of each diamond. For engagement rings, the HW design is offered in three stone sizes: 0.50, 0.70 and 1.00 carat. For added brilliance, the 1.00 carat ring is also offered with Harry Winston’s signature micropavé diamond detailing.

7

(5) Attraction Ring First introduced in 2009, as part of the New York Collection, this highly dimensional design is at once classic and modern. Symbolizing the power that draws a couple together, Harry Winston’s Attraction Ring features a distinctive domed micropavé band, with a stunning round brilliant-cut center stone that appears to float in its delicate setting. Center stones range from 0.70 to 0.79 carats and 1.00 to 1.49 carats.

(6) Tryst Ring Feminine and distinctive, the Tryst Ring incorporates classic Harry Winston craftsmanship into a contemporary design, with a round brilliant-cut or fancy-shaped center stone that is accented by two round brilliant diamonds on both sides. Center stones range from 0.70 to 1.25 carats, and this design is offered with round brilliantcut, pear-shaped, heart-shaped, or emerald-cut center stones.

(7) Lily cluster Derived from archival Winston sketches dating back to the 1940s, the Lily Cluster Engagement Ring captures the refined shape of lilies in bloom, and underscores the House’s longstanding commitment to creating impeccable jewels inspired by the beauty of nature.

An exquisite round brilliant-cut diamond poised at its center, appears to float in a delicate setting of intertwining blossoming petals. Handcrafted entirely out of platinum and diamonds, the sublime symmetry of the floral motif serves to enhance and highlight the brilliance and beauty of the center stone. The Lily Cluster Engagement Ring is offered in three stone sizes – 0.50-, 0.70-, and 1.00-carat.

8

(8) Ultimate Bridal The Ultimate Bridal Collection is Harry Winston’s exclusive service that allows clients to custom create a one-of-a-kind diamond engagement ring that is as rare and unique as one’s own individual love story. Available for engagement rings starting at 3-carats (center stone) and above, The Ultimate Bridal Collection is available by special order in Harry Winston salons worldwide.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 46

FINESSE FINESSE

Bejeweled

IS THE JEWELRY WATCH REPLACING JEWELRY? IT CERTAINLY QUALIFIES AS JEWELRY IN ITS OWN RIGHT. HERE’S WHY.

BY CAROL BESLER

J

ust as no two diamonds are exactly alike, it now seems that no two jewelry watches are alike.

Not long ago, diamond watches looked very similar in style, with gems lined up along the bezel or set pavé style on the dial. There is certainly nothing wrong with this presentation, and many still prefer the classic, minimalist look of a traditional jewelry watch. However, jeweled watches have become increasingly creative, with more one-of-a-kind pieces. Even when they are part of a series, no two are ever quite the same, due to the amount of hand finishing and the slight variations that result from that.

For these reasons, and because of the standards to which they are made, wearing a jewelry watch today is the equivalent of wearing a piece of high jewelry – in fact, wearing both high jewelry watch and high jewelry may be too much. Some prefer one or the other.

Jewelry watches, like jewelry, are now statement pieces. They are set with special cuts, flawless diamonds and unique gemstones, all of which were previously the forte of fine jewelry. Unique settings have become almost routine in jewelry watches, a trend that coincides with the rising importance of watchmaking’s métiers d’art; one of the most important crafts of watchmaking is gemsetting, and as other crafts like enameling and engraving are honed and perfected, so too is gemsetting.

1

2

“

New Watches Two unique setting techniques were displayed at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva earlier this year. Cartier’s Ballon Bleu Vibrating applies the tremblant-style of jewelry setting, popular in the early 20th century and used by Cartier since then in its jewelry pieces. By means of a system of metallic rods and springs, the invisibly set diamonds freely move – or tremble – with the wearer’s movements. There are 123 vibrating diamonds on the dial, and the case is set with a further 210 diamonds for a total of just under seven carats. The diamond bracelet is set with another nine carats of diamonds. The manual-wound Cartier Caliber 430 MC powers the timekeeping aspect of the watch.

Roger Dubuis also debuted a setting that is new to watchmaking. On the World Premiere Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon you’ll find sixty baguette diamonds (2.24 carats) set into the rubber bezel. The setting was done by movement-maker Vaucher using a patented technique they are romantically calling “soft stones in the sky.” The in-house movement, manual-wound Caliber RD505SQ, is blackened and skeletonized in the typical star-shaped, angular Roger Dubuis style.

The SIHH, in fact, has become as much a venue for the introduction of jewelry watches as for high watchmaking.

Audemars Piguet, known as a men’s sports watch brand, surprised everyone this year with an impressive range of jewelry watches. Its Diamond Punk cuff watch is designed as a bracelet, with a sliding cover that hides the watch dial until it is time to check the time. The bracelet is snow-set with no less than 7,848 diamonds. They are set onto the angled surfaces of fifty-six pyramid facets made of gold, which comprise the contours of the bracelet. The dial is set with another 300 diamonds. It is the result of 1,440 hours of work, requiring the skills of a master jeweler.

Van Cleef & Arpels, a reliable maker of extraordinary jewelry watches, dazzled this year with the one-of-a-kind Abstraction triple-bracelet watch made of diamonds and black spinels. The central diamonds in the upper and lower bracelets are extraordinary – both are D-Color and Internally Flawless, which is extremely rare in jewelry, never mind watches. The top center diamond is a 12.03-carat cushion cut. The lower center diamond is an 11.20-carat emerald cut. It contains the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 101, one of the world’s smallest manual-wound mechanical movements.

COLORED GEMSTONES ARE ALSO INCREASINGLY BEING USED IN WATCHES.”

49 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Color too Colored gemstones are also increasingly being used in watches, another step that takes the genre closer to the realm of jewelry. Van Cleef’s Carpe Koï watch bracelet – the carp stands for beauty, courage and strength – is set with 8,000 colored gemstones, including yellow sapphires, spessartite garnets and Paraiba-like tourmalines (an icy blue colored tourmaline that is very rare, and was originally mined only in the Paraiba state of Brazil).

Backes & Strauss also presented some new jewelry watches in Geneva earlier this year. This company occupies a special place in the overlapping worlds of jewelry and jewelry watches. As

3

“

JEWELRY WATCHES, LIKE JEWELRY, ARE NOW STATEMENT PIECES.”

4

5

the world’s oldest diamond company, it has access to colors, cuts, qualities and sizes of diamonds that simply cannot be sourced by most watch companies. Through its partnership with watchmaker Franck Muller, Backes & Strauss applies this advantage to the creation of some of the world’s most unique jewelry watches. The Piccadilly Princess Royal Blue for example is set with 245 diamonds that are so pure in color they appear blue. In the history of gem grading, the purest colors were traditionally called “bleu blanc,” which corresponds to DEF color. The diamonds, totaling 37.60 carats, are presented in ten different cuts.

Another spectacular Backes & Strauss piece is the Royal Ashoka Empress, set with ninety-two Ashoka diamonds totaling over twenty-four carats. Ashoka is a special cut with sixty-two facets (traditional round brilliants have fifty-seven facets) on an elongated antique cushion cut produced by William Goldberg in New York.

At Baselworld Coming up at Baselworld 2015 are some pieces from other well known masters of the art. Chopard, a jewelry company as well as a watch company, is known for its unique creations, invented by company co-president Caroline Scheufele, an important figure in the world of jewelry design. It is a secret-style watch, with a spherical dial cover in the design of a hedgehog, set with diamonds and moonstones. The Hedgehog watch is from the Animal World collection.

Graff is also both a jewelry company and a watchmaking company, and not surprisingly excels in the art of the jewelry watch. The new Transformable is arguably more jewelry than watch. It is designed in the style of a beaded tassel secret watch from the Art Deco period. The watch dial hangs from the bale as one of the strands of the tassel. It contains 330 carats of sapphires and forty carats of diamonds.

Even fashion brands are now producing gold and diamond watches. Fendi’s My Way Limited Edition jewelry watch features a diamond-set case and dial and a removable fur collar! The fur comes in color options: Arctic fox, soft silvery blue, kiwi green or bright orange. The watch is steel and it is set with up to 667 diamonds totaling just over three carats.

The diamond watch is now so pervasive that there are as many tiers and varieties of pieces as in the world of jewelry, ranging from fashion to fine to haute joaillerie, some with quartz movements and some with mechanical complications. Take your pick!

1. The Graff Transformable watch is designed in the style of a beaded tassel secret watch. It is set with 330 carats of sapphires and 40 carats of diamonds.

2. Graff carefully matches sapphire beads for its Transformable, taking into account color and hue.

3. Audemars Piguet’s Diamond Punk cuff watch, snow-set with 7,848 diamonds.

The Backes & Strauss Piccadilly Princess Royal Blue is set with diamonds so pure in color that they appear blue...

4. The Royal Ashoka Empress is set with 92 specially cut Ashoka diamonds with 62 facets each.

5. The dial of the Cartier Ballon Bleu Vibrating watch is set tremblant style with 123 diamonds.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 48

FINESSE FINESSE

F&

rieden Swiss Unique

T

he same values that were important to the founding generation have helped to establish Frieden Ltd. as one of the leaders among Swiss jewellery manufacturers: knowledge, hard work, responsibility, honesty and customer service. As a small and dynamic company, Frieden offers personal service and tailor-made solutions to all jewellery requirements. The philosophy is to create individual jewellery with a personal touch.

Frieden presents their impressive line-up of diamond-, coloured stone- and cultured pearl jewellery at Baselworld in Basel and at VicenzaOro in Dubai. Frieden’s fascinating jewellery from their workshops in Thun, Switzerland sums up Frieden’s unique creations at the highest stage of design, materials and manufacture.

Diamond jewellery set with snake motive With this jewellery line Frieden Ltd. Creative Design immersed deep into the animal world looking for new designs. This is where Frieden found the ideas for their innovative creations in diamond jewellery.

Honored but also dreaded, the snake has always played an important role in religion and mythology. The delicate and characteristic body of the snake has inspired the creative designers of Frieden to the above pictured jewellery pieces. The elegance of the snake combined with diamonds results in spectacular and brilliant artworks for the ambitious and self-confident jewellery lover.

Collection Thomas Frieden The top collection of Frieden Ltd. Creative Design has an extraordinary, unique concept.

For this collection exclusively diamonds in all their forms and colours are used. From rough diamonds in octahedron shape to historic cuts to modern diamond cuts and in spectacular colours from bright white to weak pastel colours. The top collection Thomas Frieden has three lines named «Feuille Divine», «Oeil Magique» and «Fleur Céleste».

rerutcafunaM yrelleweJ evisulcxE serusaert dezilanosrep euqinu

Unique, individual rings Coloured gemstones are Frieden’s passion. Since decades the gemmologists of Frieden maintain close relationships to the points of origin of the rare and precious nature wonders. Frieden guarantees for all the carefully selected gemstones with reference to origin, quality and cut. Friedens in-house designers and goldsmiths produce exclusive jewellery with rare stones; as for example the two rings to be shown at Baselworld and VicenzaOro Dubai. The rings are in white gold and with a blue sapphire from Sri Lanka each, surrounded by diamonds in trapeze and diamond cut. These fantastic one-of-a-kind pieces are not only stunning creations but are also precious objects of everlasting value.

51 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

:ta su tisiV 12C HTOOB 1.2 LLAH – 5102 DLROWLESAB

Exclusive Jewellery Manufacturer unique personalized treasures

Visit us at: BASELWORLD 2015 – HALL 2.1 BOOTH C21 VICENZAORO DUBAI 2015 For inquiries: contact@frieden.ch www.frieden.ch

FINESSE FINESSE

Arteye as far as the

can see

BY NANCY OLSON

Ref. 4895G

P

atek Philippe's new Calatrava Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4895R combines the graceful contours of the Calatrava legacy with the fire of exquisite diamonds.

In an inimitable way, it unites the craftsmanship of watchmakers and casemakers with the creativity of the Patek Philippe design department and the artistry of the manufacture's jewelers.

The art of haute joaillerie The stage for the rich diamond-set wreath of the Ref. 4895R is an 18K rose gold case modeled after the classic round Calatrava style that dates back to 1932 when Patek Philippe first introduced this graceful design. The 162 baguette diamonds are draped around the dial in up to five rows and have flared ends over the strap. All the stones in the baguette rows are closed-set, creating a lovely contrast between the warm rose gold hue of the bezels and the white gleam of the diamonds. This type of setting imposes considerable challenges on the selection of the diamonds which first of all have to be internally flawless and sparkle in Top Wesselton fine white. Additionally, they need to be perfect in size, form, and cut to create a sublime ensemble with 162 individual baguette diamonds.

The responsibility for the result lies in the hands of the manufacture's gemologist who spends countless hours looking at hundreds of stones under the magnifying glass, then places them side by side, repeatedly rejecting, rematching, and rearranging them until he has found the 162 individual diamonds with which the artistic drape will be fashioned. Somewhat less time is required to identify the 20 baguette diamonds that will be set in the classic 18K rose gold prong buckle. It secures a very fine shiny alligator strap with large square scales in a shade of black that perfectly matches the color of the dial. Before the precious stones can be paired with their closed settings, the lapidary must refer to accurately dimensioned sketches and cut every single baguette to the shape that corresponds to its position in the matrix, and that assures a seamless fit relative to the adjacent diamonds.

53 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

This illustrates that the value of an haute joaillerie watch is linked not merely to the price of the gems but just as importantly to the work of the designers, the gemologist, the lapidary, and the gemsetters who spend intensive weeks perfecting the creations that will ultimately display their full splendor on the wrists of their elated owners.

The art of the dialmaker The dial is at once unpretentious and sumptuous. Its rich black color contrasts against the gleaming fine white of the diamonds and the opulent warmth of rose gold. This intense black is created by consecutively applying twelve coats of lacquer, and each coat must be absolutely immaculate.

Even the slightest dust particle trapped in one of these many coats would ruin the dial, so clean-room conditions are essential. Additionally, every coat must first harden completely and be scrupulously inspected for cavities before the following coat can be applied. The next critical phase involves drilling the bore for the arbors of the Dauphine hour and minute hands as well as all 24 holes for the tiny feet of the twelve applied arrow hour markers that are securely riveted to the dial from the rear. Plenty of work is also involved in the making of the 18K hands and hour markers themselves.

The two facets of the Dauphine hands and the three facets of the hour markers are mirror-polished, forming a crisp geometrical profile accentuated with the sharp ridge in the middle. Even the slightest flaw in production would be a defect that cannot be ignored – with only one consequence: scrap. At Patek Philippe, no effort is spared to turn dials, hour markers, and hands into small but impeccable works of art. Indeed, the completion of the dial of the Calatrava Ref. 4895 alone involves more work than the overall production of many a timepiece.

The art of horology Aside from all the meticulous effort invested in cases, precious stone settings, and dials, Patek Philippe’s core business should not be forgotten. It is manifested in the manually wound mechanical caliber 215 movement that powers the hands of the watch. It is a legendary movement that has been permanently refined since it was launched more than forty years ago and can be admired through the display back of the new ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4895R. Its elegantly curved train bridge, the barrel bridge, the straight balance cock, and the independent escape wheel bridge are decorated with Geneva striping and feature glistening round-chamfered, mirror-polished edges. Parts of the main plate can be seen between the bridges and wheels. It is decorated with perlage composed of numerous small, overlapping cloudlike stipples. The movement beats with a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 hertz) and is endowed with a Patek Philippe Gyromax® balance as well as a patented Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar®. Thanks

Ref. 7131-175R

Ref. 4895R

to its unique properties and proprietary geometry, this innovative silicon-based material contributes significantly to the excellent rate accuracy of the watch.

Not least, this is guaranteed by the strict directives of the Patek Philippe Seal, which forthe caliber 215 tolerates daily rate deviations of no more than -3 to +2 seconds. It can be identified by the gold-filled “double-P” engraving in the escape-wheel bridge.

Patek Philippe’s dial tradition Quite often, the dial is referred to as the face of a watch and largely influences the overall impression that a timepiece makes. Accordingly, dialmakers rank among the most sought-after specialists in the realm of horology and, especially at Patek Philippe, have very close-knit relationships with the manufacture. When Patek Philippe, for a lack of successors in the founding families, was up for sale in the early 1930s, the Geneva-based dial manufacture Stern Frères was among the seriously interested prospects. At that time, it was probably the best and most famous dial specialist in the Swiss watchmaking industry.

Patek Philippe was one of its customers. Stern Frères was also domiciled in Geneva, and the owners of both companies knew and trusted each other. Consequently, the founding families confidently entrusted Patek Philippe to the hands of the Stern brothers in 1932. The Stern family remained loyal to the “face of the watch” as evidenced by the many amazing creations presented since 1932: dials with cloisonné enamel or miniature enamel painting, guilloched or gem-set oeuvres, and meanwhile even precious wood marquetry of the most filigreed kind.

President Thierry Stern, the fourth-generation member of the family at the helm of Patek Philippe, makes it abundantly clear that he has not replaced dialmaker DNA with watchmaker DNA: he has both. For this reason, Patek Philippe operates its own dial manufacture which produces artistic creations like the face of the new Haute Joaillerie Calatrava Ref. 4895R. As one of the most revered watch brands in the world, it’s no surprise Patek Philippe’s attention to its women’s collection is anything other than top notch. And the company has been—and continues to be—a driving force in the ladies complicated watch sector of the industry with its Complications collection of chronographs, annual calendars, moon phases, world times and travel times.

The Ladies First timepieces ramped up the focus on serious watches even further, with such “grand complications” as a split-seconds chronograph, a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. Each is a feminine interpretation of these time-honored—and often male-targeted—functions, and they feature such dazzling accents as pearl dials or diamond settings.

To celebrate the momentous anniversary of Patek Philippe last year, the 175th Anniversary collection of truly distinguished timepieces was introduced, which included some outstanding pieces for women. Shown here is the 38mm World Time Moon in

Ref. 4675R

Ref. 7175R

rose gold, a limited edition of 450 pieces. Powered by the self-winding Caliber 240 HU LU, it includes phases of the moon, a display of 24 time zones with day/night and 24-hour indications, and a generous power reserve. The solid caseback is engraved “Patek Philippe Geneve 175e Anniversaire 1839 – 2014,” and the bezel is set with 70 diamonds.

Another piece from the commemorative collection is the Multi-scale Chronograph, which is a 37mm white gold wonder that features a silvery opaline dial, taupe-y colored printed scales and 12 diamond baguette markers. The Caliber CH 28-520 is command central for the tachymeter, telemeter and pulsimeter, with a sweeping chronograph hand that elegantly traverses the dial. This solid-caseback watch is also imprinted with the special anniversary engraving.

Watches from the Complications collection that made their debut at Baselworld 2014 include this 33mm yellow gold watch framed by a bezel set with 66 diamonds and this 33.3mm white gold model whose bezel sparkles with 273 graduated diamonds set in a spiral. Each is powered by the Caliber 215 PS LU, and the aperture at 6 o’clock features seconds and moon phases. The white gold watch has a mother-of-pearl dial with a spiral engraving that complements the bezel. An additional 32 diamonds are set on the prong-style buckle of the alligator strap.

With Baselworld 2015 right around the corner, more is no doubt in store for women who love exceptional timepieces. And I’m looking forward to being first in line to marvel at them.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 52

watch GUIDE watch GUIDE

SNEAK

PEEK Take a look at these early Baselworld 2015 debuts and stay tuned for so much more in the Post-Basel issue of International Watch Middle East.

55 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

alBErt rIElE Premiere

the incarnation of the aesthetic and creativity of Swiss brand albert riele, this chronograph seals the launch of its flagship Premiere collection. Its design is rooted in classic lines, drawn out by a myriad carefully orchestrated details that instil a contemporary touch. Elegant contrasts take form such as the mat black chronograph counters that stand out against the silvered dial. They are echoed by the inner bezel ring that is circled by a date scale. The expressive hands with their robust architecture offer maximum legibility, including at night thanks to the luminescent coating that also covers the hour-markers. All this is brought to life by a quartz movement, the Ronda 5040.F calibre. The watch is delivered on a leather strap with an additional steel bracelet.

BlaNcPaIN Villeret Grande Date

For the first time in the Villeret collection, Blancpain is offering a timepiece with a large date. This elegant and useful complication enables optimal readability of the date by means of a display comprising two broad apertures. Calibre 6950 beating at the heart of this timepiece comprises two barrels and an ingenious large date mechanism equipped with a protective shock-absorbing system. This remarkable accurate and reliable automatic movement also features a variable-inertia balance with a silicon balance-spring and gold adjusting screws. With its classic double-stepped red gold case and its opaline dial, the Villeret large Date embodies all the values of traditional watchmaking and bears the signature pure lines and timeless aesthetic of the entire Villeret collection.

BrEGUEt Breguet Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097

Breguet’s latest creation, the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 pays tribute to the “souscription” and “tact” watches made by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century. Like them, its mechanism reveals the bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and various other parts that are normally placed beneath the plate. The small offset dial at 12 o’clock – another characteristic of the great master’s legendary “à tact” watches – on the new Tradition 7097 model is overlapped by a retrograde seconds segment promoting optimal readability. The iconic “pare-chute” system of the Tradition collection positioned at 4 o’clock adds a perfectly symmetrical touch.

BErGStErN Bergstern Sport

Bergstern is for ambitious men who know what they want and how to get it: a philosophy epitomised by the Bergstern Sport chronograph. This is a watch that will never shirk a challenge, and its character and reliability are felt in every single detail. Immediately, the eye focuses on the imposing case, topped with a robust bezel that radiates strength and masculinity. Nor does the bright blue dial, accented by a guilloché motif, go unnoticed. Its generous, luminescent hour-markers ensure perfect legibility while the red sweep seconds hand makes its mark. The same red defines the chrono counter hands to further highlight the sporting personality of a chronograph cut out for competition.

BoUchEroN Epure Steel

Epure: originates in «pure» associated with the prefix «e-» signifies «bringing to pureness», the «bringing to clarity», a synonym of refinement. The Maison Boucheron stands out once again as an architect of time with its new collection Epure. A strong line, sober aesthetics and daring contrasts to celebrate that which is essential. Such is the promise of Epure for a new timeless elegance. After having brought out a precious and exclusive modelin gold two years ago, Epure reveals itself now in steel, for the contemporary wearer. This new model exalts the iconic codes of Boucheron with yet more force and possesses an even more graphic design.

BrEVa Génie 03

The Génie 03 is fitted with a patented “instant speed” scientific measurement mechanism. Within its titanium G5 extrusion instrument are hemispherical Robinson cups designed as an anemometer for measuring wind speed that has been adapted to display speeds of 20 to 200 km/hour or 10 to 125 mph. When worn on the wrist of a cyclist, motorcyclist and others, with wrist exposed to the moving air, the Génie 03 indicates the speed with a red hand. Its readings are instantaneous and require no calculating on the part of the user.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 54

watch GUIDE watch GUIDE

EaRLY BaSEL 2015

calVIN KlEIN

CARL F. BUCHERER

calvin Klein alliance lady

Patravi Scubatec

The Calvin Klein Alliance Lady goes straight to the essential. Pure, flowing lines, inspired by contemporary urban architecture, instil timeless elegance. Light dances on the notched steel bezel and on the bracelet in polished and brushed steel. Set against a dial that has been stripped of the superfluous, hands and hour-markers contribute to the effortless reading of time. Mother-of-pearl brings a feminine touch, in four subtly iridescent shades: white, beige, anthracite grey and blue.

Introduced in 2014, the Patravi ScubaTec returns in a new execution that matches the functional design of a dive watch with the glimmer of pink gold for the case. A focal point of this uniquely seductive timepiece is the blue and black ceramic that circles the bezel. The dial, meanwhile, is finished with a pattern of scales that reflect the light, much like the shimmer on the surface of the waves. The Patravi ScubaTec is at home underwater where it makes the perfect diving buddy for deep-sea exploration.

chrIStoPhE clarEt choParD Happy Sport Medium Automatic Two Tone

with its famous moving diamonds dancing across the dial, the happy Sport rapidly established itself as a Chopard icon. For its 20th anniversary in 2013, it added a mechanical dimension to its bewitching charm. Chopard now introduces a new twotone setting for this automatic movement, featuring a case and a bracelet creating extremely refined contrasts between steel and pink gold. Meanwhile, in keeping with the “Happy Sport” spirit, seven diamonds twirl freely across the silver-toned dial.

CLAUDE MEYLAN LAC «Tortue de Joux»

Claude Meylan looks to the grand tradition of form watches to once again sculpt time.

The fully skeletonised mechanical movement appears to float between two sapphire crystals. At the heart of the mechanism, the hour and minute wheels guide the hands in their infinite dance. Decorations inspired by the characteristic shutters on the homes of the watchmaking-farmers of yore can be admired here and there, each hinting at the expert hand of the craftsman who brings these delicate finishes to life. The meticulously sculpted bridges create a harmony of forms and play on subtle contrasts in colour with the plate, further accentuated by the transparency of the whole.

57 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

aventicum

christophe claret pays tribute to aventicum, the ancient capital of roman helvetia, and its museum. One of the many treasures to have been excavated here is a solid gold bust of Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. The watchmaker has reproduced this bust and placed it at the centre of the dial, in the form of a gold micro-sculpture.

Less than 3 millimetres high, this likeness is magnified using an astonishing optical system known as the mirascope: two parabolic mirrors are positioned one above the other; the topmost mirror has a hole in its centre. The object to be viewed is placed on the bottom mirror, reflected by light rays, and magnified to twice its size. The bust appears to be projecting out of the dial. Aventicum is proposed as two limited series with 68 pieces in pink gold and 38 in white gold.

CORUM Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Flying Tourbillon

The Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Flying Tourbillon features a tourbillon carriage mounted on enlarged ceramic ball bearings for resilience, and the movement’s bridge and base plate are machined from stainless steel instead of brass. The tourbillon appears to be suspended in mid-air, but it is actually tethered to the movement by the two slender steel arms that are part of the bridge. The watch was created in celebration of the brand’s sixtieth anniversary, which it celebrates this year.

EMPORIO ARMANI Emporio armani automatic ladies

Emporio Armani conveys an inimitable style that has forged its success. Its designer Giorgio Armani now expresses this unique signature through a feminine timepiece combining the brand’s pure, uncluttered aesthetic codes and Swiss watchmaking expertise, with an automatic movement beating at its heart. The elegant pink goldplated case reveals lines inspired by the Art Deco movement, while 82 diamonds light up the sides of the case. The mother-of-pearl dial is graced with understated hour-markers and the crown is set with a smoky brown quartz cabochon. The watch is fitted with a sapphire caseback revealing its mechanical movement.

EtErNa

ErNESt BorEl Duke Collection

With its new Duke collection, Ernest Borel presents an exquisite match between two opposites. On the one hand, a simple, elegant and remarkably pared-down design. on the other, the sophistication of a mechanical movement comprising several masterfully orchestrated horological complications: day, date, month and moon phases. A veritable compendium of the watchmaking expertise cultivated by Ernest Borel, this combination of simplicity and complexity paid tribute to the history of the Jura-based company, embodying a perfect balance between tradition and modernity.

FENDI TIMEPIECES Fendi My Way Limited Editions

Grace open art

Eterna has always been driven to create exquisite timepieces that are consummately designed to meet the desires of a discerning feminine clientele. With the Grace open art, the Grenchen-based watch manufacturing company demonstrates once again the importance it attaches to this long tradition. This exclusive ladies’ model is a successful combination of feminine beauty and mechanical sophistication in a timepiece of sublime artistry.

Colourful, joyful and above all incredibly glamorous, the Fendi My Way collection comes in two new 50-piece limited series. The watch flaunts its ultra-feminine curves, accentuated by a cambered diamond-set case and a removable little fur collar called “Glamy”. Arctic fox or soft silvery blue, kiwi green, bright orange of fascinating latter; the latter radiates a mesmerizingly seductive appeal and a multifunctional nature.

Wildly chic and imbued with the expertise of the Fendi fur ateliers, these four limited series are fitted with an Elaphe snakeskin strap in a colour to match the Glamy.

GUccI

haBrING2

Gucci Dive

Felix

Launched in 2013, the Gucci Dive collection extends to eight new quartz versions in a multitude of colours and effects. Water-resistant to 200 metres, they come in three sizes with a diameter of 32, 40 or 45 mm. In styles that are classic, on-trend or sporting, with or without the distinctive green-red-green striped Gucci strap, the Gucci Dive collection highlights Gucci watches’ natural ability to give different personalities to a single concept. The collection’s sporting allure is accentuated by a rotating bezel, a characteristic feature of a dive watch.

last year, austria-based habring2 had much to celebrate, including its tenth anniversary and the debut of its first fully in-house designed movement. The Habring2 Felix is the first watch equipped with this new hand-wound caliber family, with hours, minutes and small seconds and 48 hours of power reserve. The Felix features a stainless steel 38.5mm case, a double-sealed crown and a see-through caseback that reveals the movement’s lovely display of hand-polished edges, decorative engravings and perlage.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 56

watch GUIDE watch GUIDE

EaRLY BaSEL 2015

HAMILTON

HARRY WINSTON

Chrono Worldtimer Quartz

Midnight Feathers Automatic 42mm

This watch equipped with a quartz movement specially developed for Hamilton also offers a whole series of functions that are highly useful both in flight and on the ground. A simple press on the 10 o’clock pusher switches it between chronograph and worldtimer functions, a change clearly visible on the dial by means of the modeselection indicator at 2 o’clock. The 24 timezones are printed on the inner bezel ring. Finally, the model also features a day/night indication as well as a countdown engraved on the bezel.

hUBlot Big Bang tourbillon 5-Day Power reserve Indicator

More horology, more expertise, more innovation, more fusion: Hublot rises to the challenge and presents the first tourbillon in the new-generation Big Bang line, featuring a skeleton movement - a feast for the eyes - and the added practicality of a power-reserve indicator on the dial side. Designed, developed and produced entirely

by Hublot, this mechanical calibre further confirms the brand as one of the very few watchmakers with the capacity to develop and produce its own movements.

KERBEDANZ celtic Dog

By creating one-off pieces or very limited series, Kerbedanz takes watchmaking in unexplored directions that embrace all manner of symbols. Celtic Dog is inspired by a symbolic animal that is associated with the moon, and which for the celts represents the hunter, the warrior, or a messenger from beyond. The book that accompanies this tourbillon watch keeps this memory alive with explanations of the legends and symbols that surround Celtic dogs. Individually numbered, 41-piece limited series.

59 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

With the Midnight Feathers Automatic 42mm, horological expertise and the craft of “plumasserie” converge again on a new canvas. Each flight feather is carefully selected, shaped and then placed under a magnifying glass to insure optimal precision. The resulting dial marquetry motif plays on alternating colors that impart a vibrant rhythm to the dial. This rose gold watch is powered by the automatic-winding HW2008 that features hours and minutes. It comes on a brown leather strap with a rose gold pin buckle.

JAQUET DROZ Bird repeater Geneva

This exceptional timepiece unites many of the symbols of this Swiss city on a white mother-of-pearl watch dial, including Lake Geneva, the Jet d’Eau fountain and the lighthouse, as well as the silhouette of the Salève, the pre-Alpine peak considered the city’s “balcony.” At the center of the dial elegant goldfinches are nesting. The red gold 47mm watch is equipped with the RMA88 automatic movement.

l’DUchEN Perseides

the primordial ocean is a mythical element in which the Earth and space were conceived. The dials of the Perseides timepieces by L’Duchen, fashioned in astral blue, white or black mother-of-pearl, reflect this mysterious phenomenon of pure creation. A moonphase indicator and shimmering shooting stars in three dimensions illuminate these delicate compositions. Their brilliance is further highlighted by the zircons set into the bezel on the steel case. Each timepiece is brought to life by a quartz movement and finished with a supremely elegant leather strap.

loUIS ErarD Excellence Regulator

More than ever faithful to its philosophy of offering fine watchmaking at affordable prices, the independent brand from le Noirmont is offering a new version of its regulator this year. This emblematic model from its collection embodies a perfect blend of traditional and modern elements. The heritage of historical precision instruments appears on the hour subdial at 12 o’clock, bearing finely traced Roman numerals. It is also manifested in the Côtes de Genève motif adorning the dial base as well as the three blued hands.

LUMINOX SXC/XCOR Space Expeditions

The SXC/XCOR Space Expeditions is the latest in the series of watches for the Pilot Professional. It features enhanced night visibility, thanks to Luminox’s light technology.

The 45.55mm titanium analog/digital watch was designed in partnership with SXC/ XCOR space expeditions to be worn by astronauts and passengers of the space project. It comes on a black leather strap.

orIS

Mühle Glashütte M29 Classic Einzeiger

The M29 Classic Einzeiger is a 42.4mm brushed and polished stainless steel watch.

It features a see-through caseback that allows a view of the Sellita 200-1 automatic movement with woodpecker neck regulation and characteristic finishing. It has a 38hour power reserve and a screw-in crown insuring water resistance to 100 meters.

The dial is cream-colored.

PErrElEt Turbine Skeleton Réf. A3038/1A

a concentrated blend of more than 200 years of horological heritage combined with a resolutely innovative spirit, the iconic Turbine by Perrelet gets a complete makeover to welcome its first skeleton movement: redesigned dimensions, new aesthetic details, an evolution in materials. An authentic ode to transparency, the Turbine Skeleton reveals the internal structure of its entirely openworked Manufacture P-381 calibre.

Tthe black aluminium turbine is fitted directly on the under-dial, itself openworked, so as not to obstruct the view of the heart of the watch.

Thelonious Monk Limited Edition

Oris presents the latest timepiece in a collection that pays tribute to jazz legends.

Produced as a 1,000-piece limited series, the Thelonious Monk celebrates the unique talent of one of the greatest ever American jazz pianists and composers. Monk was known for his avant-garde style and dissonant harmonies. In a clever reference to his distinctive technique, the smoke blue sunburst dial features 11 graduations between 10 and 12 o’clock. The hour-markers take the form of small polished dots. The back of the case is engraved with the “Round Minute” pianist’s favourite quip, “MONK ALWAYS KNOW”.

PIErrE DErochE TNT Royal Retro GMT ½ Hour

Pierre DeRoche enriches its TNT Royal Retro with a GMT display adjustable to the nearest half hour not via a corrector, but instead using the crown. An extremely rare phenomenon! To avoid any loss of precision during adjustments, the GMT hours and minutes hands advance in 30-minute increments to guarantee exact half hours, without the movement stopping. A third indicator appears on the white part of the subdial if it is daytime in the zone of the second time zone; or in the black section if it is night-time.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 58

watch GUIDE watch GUIDE

EaRLY BaSEL 2015

raDo

rEVElatIoN

hyperchrome Plasma Diamonds limited Edition

R07 Legend Magical Watch Dial

SEcUlUS

SNYPER

collection ambassador

Ironclad Steel PVD Black Red Edition

Those who appreciate the lustre of diamonds need look no further: the Rado HyperChrome Diamonds collection now offers a new, limited edition of 600 models featuring the unparalleled high-tech shine of plasma ceramic. No model is more refined than this new addition with 56 glittering diamonds on the rose gold coloured bezel, encircling the dial and making it a pleasure to check the time. With its cool and warm tones this timepiece is the ideal finishing touch for any outfit.

Combining Swiss watchmaking traditions with refined design, the Ambassador Collection embodies the values of quality, reliability and timelessness cherished by the Seculus brand, of which – as implied by its name – the finest ambassador. Equipped with an automatic movement beating at its heart, it celebrates Swiss precision to impart a steady cadence to a vision of time that will find its way through passing eras and appeal to future generations.

SPEAKE-MARIN Velsheda

Nautically inspired, the Velsheda watch is named after the “J Class” yacht that was built in the 1930s and is still racing today. While the Piccadilly case suggests early marine chronometers, it is the dial that first captures our attention. Featuring a single blued steel hand that extends across its entire diameter, it is the backdrop for the fascinating optical effect of two superimposed topping tool motifs, the Speake-Marin logo, rotating at different speeds.

61 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

More innovative and masculine than ever, the new R07 Legend Magical Watch Dial® inaugurates the Grand Sport line by revelation by asserting its distinctive identity codes through an extreme interpretation of the fundamental brand concept: the Revelation System®. A simple 90° turn of the bezel transforms the dial to reveal large date and retrograde day displays. This second face is revealed in an original manner by means of mechanical elements cut out and staged in a graphic and colourful way.

Established in Geneva in 2008, Snyper finds its inspiration in the equipment issued to Special Forces marksmen. Robust and technical, these Swiss-made watches are for men who demonstrate the same high expectations and complete self-control. The brand is committed to taking technology to new limits without compromise. This is evidenced in the powerful design of its Ironclad Steel PVD Black Red Edition. This imposing chronograph is proof of an unfailing desire to serve.

tISSot Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton

The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton takes its name from the place where it was created. Chemin des Tourelles is the street where the Tissot factory was built in 1907 and where the company still remains today. The steel watch features a hand-wound ETA movement exclusive to Tissot. Water resistant to 50 meters, it comes on a black alligator-pattern leather strap with a folding buckle.

ULYSSE NARDIN Répétition Minutes Hannibal Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts

Ulysse Nardin brings history to life with a retelling of hannibal’s epic march over the Pyrenees and the Alps by elephant, in the third century B.C. In its latest creation, the Manufacture portrays Hannibal on horseback, in the thick of the action, surrounded by his loyal warriors riding elephants. All these characters have been transformed into jacks and are sculpted in white gold, as are the landscape and mountains in the background. The entire scene is set on a dial in genuine Alpine granite.

VoUtIlaINEN Voutilainen GMR

As befits such a virtuoso of complicated timepieces, this new watch by Kari Voutilainen incorporates a second time zone with 24-hour indicator and a retrograde powerreserve indicator. As always, the movement is developed and hand-crafted from start to finish inside the master watchmaker’s workshops, in the peace and tranquillity of the Swiss village of Môtiers. Fashioned from maillechort, this top-flight mechanical movement comprises no fewer than 250 parts and 28 jewels.

ZENITH

BRM

Academy Georges Favre-Jacot

V6-44-SA- GULF

Glashütte Original

raidillon

Panoreserve

42-C10-162

Still located in the premises where it was born in 1865, Zenith is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing an exceptional watch imbued with the visionary genius of its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. Genius was indeed required to transpose the fusée and chain system borrowed from historical marine chronometers to the tiny space of a wristwatch. This highly complex device serves to compensate for the progressive reduction in the force of the barrel as the power reserve is discharged, and to maintain the perfect stability of the force with no loss of amplitude.

For Baselworld 2015 two new versions of the PanoReserve and PanoMaticLunar make their debut at the same time. The two timepieces from the successful Pano Collection are now available in red gold versions with a matt black dial, and in polished/satin brushed stainless steel editions with a dark blue dial (seen here). The exceptionally beautiful and characteristic dials of the PanoMaticLunar and PanoReserve are made in Glashütte Original’s own dial manufactory in Pforzheim. The stainless steel versions can be worn with a dark blue calf’s leather or Louisiana Alligator nubuck leather strap.

BRM unveiled its first GULF models in February 2011. Since then, it has released no less than 9 limited editions featuring the famous brand. This year, following on from its successful Shock Absorber (SA) watches, BRM has made 2 different versions of the V6-44-SA Gulf. The V6-44-SA has an exclusive suspended movement with 3 oblique and 3 vertical shock absorbers, which protect the movement from knocks and vibrations. The ground-breaking case proves once again that BRM is the leader in watch design for mechanical sport.

Inspired by racing circuits, the index and details in relief go around the dial like the rumble strips on the sides of the track. The circular area at 3 o’clock marks the turn into the famous bend, with the name ‘raidillon’ and the rumble strips in a contrasting colour. The counter at 6 o’clock reminds us of the Belgian origin of the design, and its ‘Swiss Made’ fabrication. Then the last counter at 9 o’clock on a white background refers to the white circle where racing cars’ numbers were displayed on their doors and bonnets.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 60

watch GUIDE watch GUIDE

on the

BE ACH

wIth Its sponsorshIp at Art BAsel, aUDEmars pIGUEt forGEs a valUablE apprEcIatIon for Its own wEarablE art.

By HowArd PArr

At Art Basel in Miami Audemars Piguet took Dutch artist Theo Jansen’s wind-powered Strandbeests to the United States for the first time.

63 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Partnerships in the luxury world can be a dicey venture.

They are by nature a dilution of one brand by another, formed in the interest of adding value to both.

Those that succeed open new markets, expand global visibility, and ideally see a return on investment.

Those that fail not only siphon value from a brand, they can become a barnacle that becomes attached to a brand’s identity for years after.

A WATCH HAVEN

Audemars Piguet displays vintage Royal Oak Offshore models at Art Basel Miami.

S

ince golfer Nick Faldo was named its first brand ambassador in 1989, audemars piguet has communicated most powerfully by the ambassadors representing it. thousands of watches have been sold with their names attached, and millions of dollars donated to causes ranging from environmental preservation to after-school programs for children. at times, these meaningful achievements were outshone by audemars piguet’s watchmaking prowess playing understudy to its own celebrity. all the while, as its watchmaking has continuously--yet perhaps too quietly--only improved. audemars piguet led the path into cutting-edge materials and bold design territory. the brand has a lengthy list of industry firsts since developing the first minute repeater wristwatch in 1892, and audemars piguet ’s premier-level finishing accounts for over one-third of movement production cost. simply put, audemars piguet timepieces are art. and they want this fact known. collectors two years ago, audemars piguet became a global sponsor of the world’s largest art fair, art basel. the fair features the world’s premier galleries selling their top artists’ works in basel, hong Kong and miami. the fairs display more than $20 billion in art in one place, with collectors from all over the world coming to buy. the buyers are cultured, and wine and fashion-savvy, but audemars piguet noticed that the art world doesn’t speak watch. In sponsoring the fair, audemars piguet has begun to construct a bona fide watch culture inside a collector demographic that has the means and the artistic appreciation to fully embrace it. the fair’s collectors lounge in each city offers direct access to the event’s sponsors, which include netjets, Ubs bank and of course audemars piguet, which builds a booth to showcase a wall of timepieces in its current and past collections. In addition, audemars piguet watchmakers are on hand in each city to highlight the artistic qualities of its watchmaking. the company also supports artists in presenting their work at art basel. In 2013, french artists Kolkoz constructed a chalet on miami’s biscayne bay. this past year, along with the peabody Essex museum, audemars piguet brought Dutch artist theo Jansen’s wind-powered strandbeests (left) to the United states for the first time. the artistic parallels between audemars piguet and Jansen’s art were thoroughly compelling, as noted by olivier audemars. “like watchmakers,” he said, ”theo Jansen takes a material that has no intrinsic value, assembles it into a complex system, and literally brings it to life.” audemars piguet believes not only that this relationship with art basel will bring it into a new world of collectors, but will also challenge its watchmaking mindset by the influence of the artist’s perspective. In fact, the litmus test for working with any artistic project is that it must first inspire a watchmaker at the swiss manufacturer.

Jansen’s strandbeests did just that. and while anticipating no mere walk on the beach, audemars piguet expects to similarly inspire the art collector. If the first two rounds at art basel are any indication, audemars piguet is well on its way in forging a valuable appreciation for its wearable art.

while audemars piguet was a major sponsor of art basel miami this past December, several other watch brands used the days to host events for collectors and friends. these included Iwc, roger Dubuis, hublot, buccellati and bulgari.

Iwc schaffhausen showcased its new portofino midsize collection and the accompanying photography done in black and white by peter lindbergh. the event included a first-time-in-the-U.s. look at approximately sixty photos taken by lindbergh of Iwc friends of the brand in portofino. the ”timeless portofino” exhibit unveiled by Iwc cEo Georges Kern consisted of photos of cate blanchett, christoph waltz, Ewan mcGregor, and Zhou Xun all wearing Iwc portofino midsize watches. similarly, roger Dubuis held a star-studded evening, after a day of showing off watches in an informal presIhh event. hublot honored parisian street artist mr. brainwash (above left, known for madonna’s “celebration” album cover and his work with red hot chili peppers) with a special installation of art at the brand’s new bal harbour boutique. Iwc opened its boutique in the Design District, as did bulgari at the bal harbour shops (with a new store design concept by famed architect peter marino), and buccellati.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 62

INDEPENDENT ATELIER INDEPENDENT ATELIER

GRÖNEFELD

BY ELIZABETH DOERR

Bart and Tim Grönefeld

BART (BORN 1969) AND TIM (BORN 1972) GRÖNEFELD OF OLDENZAAL, HOLLAND, ARE BEST KNOWN FOR THE GTM-06 MINUTE REPEATER (1998), ONE HERTZ (2010), AND THE PARALLAX TOURBILLON (2014).

QUICK FACTS The Parallax Tourbillon, a winner at the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genéve

The Grönefeld One Hertz in fact beats at 3 Hz The Grönefeld Parallax Tourbillon won the tourbillon category of the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Both brothers have worked at Switzerland’s Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi (APRP)

T

wo brothers with the last name Grönefeld are behind the simple name of this boutique brand. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of the eponymous name, though. It in no way reflects the complexity of the watches.

Having spent years honing their craft in the workshops of Switzerland, for example at complication specialist Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi (APRP), the brothers returned to Holland to make what has become the most complicated watch to ever be manufactured in that country: the GTM-06, whose initials stand for Grönefeld Tourbillon Minute Repeater – a watch that was in development for more than four years before one was ever sold.

This should come as no surprise since their great-grandfather, Johan Grönefeld, began practicing the art of watchmaking in 1912 in the very city – and indeed the very workshop (at right) – the brothers continue to live in today: Oldenzaal, located near the German border.

The One Hertz timepiece is characterized by striking off-center, monochromatic visuals.

This year’s Parallax Tourbillon boasts similar visuals, but far different mechanics: a visible flying tourbillon occupies the spot where the One Hertz’s very large subsidiary seconds dial was placed. The seconds are now placed in the center of the solid silver dial while the actual hour and minute subdial remains off to the side in the 2 o’clock position.

The large seconds have another function here: to display the precision of the tourbillon. The timepiece’s chosen name, Parallax, actually refers to the apparent change in position of an object when the observer changes his or her own position.

Speaking of changing position, the time is set by pushing the crown rather than pulling it to help avoid accidental damage; a function indicator tells the owner whether it is setting or winding. A hacking seconds function allows perfect setting to the second.

The watch is housed in a 43mm red gold case limited to just twenty-eight pieces or a stainless steel case limited to twelve.

65 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

The award winning tourbillon of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève www.gronefeld.com

CLOSE UP CLOSE UP

The 48mm Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT is a worthy successor to the first Zenith aviator’s watches.

Just Your

BY NANCY OLSON

ZENITH’S NEWEST PILOT TIMEPIECES CONTINUE THE COMPANY’S SAGA OF THE SKIES. ZENITH WAS ONE OF THE FIRST WATCH MANUFACTURERS TO CREATE FLIGHT INSTRUMENTS, INCLUDING ALTIMETERS AND ONBOARD AND WRISTBORN CHRONOGRAPHS, TO EQUIP VARIOUS AIRCRAFT MANNED BY AVIATION PIONEERS. AS EXAMPLES, LOUIS BLÉRIOT WORE A ZENITH WATCH WHEN HE FLEW OVER THE ENGLISH CHANNEL IN 1909. SO, TOO, LÉON MORANE, WHO BECAME THE FIRST PILOT TO REACH AN AIR SPEED OF MORE THAN 100 KM/H JUST A YEAR LATER.

67 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

I

n the 1930s and 1940s, the Montre d’Aéronef Zenith Type 20 was onboard a number of aircraft, including the Caudron Simoun C.635 planes of the French air force and Air Bleu mail planes. And just a couple of years ago, in 2012, a man was about to make history by breaking the speed of sound in a freefall: Felix Baumgartner launched himself into the stratosphere from a space capsule wearing the Zenith El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th.

Today, Zenith continues its saga of the skies, with a variety of Pilot Type 20 timepieces designed to accompany the wearer in the air or with feet firmly on the ground.

The broad collection includes tourbillon, GMT and annual calendar models, heretofore ranging in size from 40mm to 48mm.

Great Fire The new Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu’s case measures in at a substantial 60mm, entirely and amazingly crafted from a block of sapphire, making it the first sapphire case in the history of the Manufacture Zenith and also the largest sapphire case in watchmaking history. But in addition to its size and distinguished material, the limited edition (10 pieces) Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is a notable timepiece for a whole host of other reasons, not the least of which is its grand feu enamel dial. To refresh your memory, grand feu enameling is a decorative technique considered one of the most difficult to execute in the realm of watchmaking.

Meaning “great fire” the grand feu art form involves carefully coating a watch dial with enamel in successive layers, each heated at extremely high temperatures ranging from 800 to 900 degrees Celsius. The end result is a highly durable, radiant dial that resists cracking over time, but the success of the lengthy process is completely dependent upon the experience, expertise and, I suspect, luck of the artisan. The extraordinarily sized dial of the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu makes the process that much more difficult.

The Zenith Type 20 Grand Feu features an all-sapphire case, an enamel dial and a rare vintage Zenith movement.

The counters, power reserve at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock, are also crafted from grand feu enamel, and the hour markers are enameled in black. The blued and skeletonized central hands as well as the blue hands on the counters offer tasteful color counterpoints. “Zenith Montre d’Aeronef Type 20,” along with the Zenith star, are visible just below 12 o’clock, while “Chronometre Grand Feu” in a lovely script is evident just above 6 o’clock.

The sapphire is edged with a finely hand-chased and engraved white gold bezel, matching the décor on the white gold lugs and oversized crown—a signature of the Pilot collection. The large and usually ratcheted crowns on the Zenith Pilot watches commemorate those typical of historical aviator watches, guaranteeing a perfect grip even with gloves on.

Running the Show Inside is the El Primero 5011K movement gorgeously visible through the caseback.

The hand-wound Calibre 5011K, first produced by the manufacture in 1960, was recognized as the most precise chronometer ever presented by the Neuchâtel Observatory at the time.

A small number of original 5011K calibers from the Zenith archives were updated and decorated by hand, ultimately finding their way to the interior of the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu. The sides and back of the movement are entirely adorned with intricate scrolled and garland-like motifs complementing the motif on the bezel and lugs.

Oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, the 134-component, 19-jewel Calibre 5011K also features shock absorbers on the balance staff and on the escapement, fine adjustment and a self-compensating anti-magnetic Breguet overcoil balance spring – all qualities contributing to its first-rate performances while detracting nothing from its resolutely vintage spirit. It has a power reserve of 48 hours.

Calibre 5011k When the Calibre 5011K was first created in 1960, it was immediately recognized as something special. The Neuchâtel Observatory agreed, awarding it the distinction of the most precise chronometer ever presented, and it was used to equip marine chronometers and pocket watches. Lucky for us, a small

number of original 5011K calibers, which were found in the company archives, have been updated, decorated and put to exceptional use in the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu. The watch case middle and the transparent caseback offer clear views of this mechanical hand-wound movement, whose scrolled and garland-like motifs reflect the spirit of fine watchmaking.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 66

SPECIAL SPECIAL

Straps to fit any mood or any watch. Clockwise from left: rubber, shell Cordovan, waxed cotton, “football leather, distressed leather and suede.

for

Str apped

T i m e

By Jason Heaton | PHotos By GisHani Heaton

No need to be stuck with the strap that came with your new or vintage watch. Strap makers across the globe offer stylish options.

S

omeone once said that when you wear a watch, eighty percent of your wrist is strap and the other twenty percent is the watch itself,” says Nick Gabarro, a St. Paul, Minnesota-based watch collector and purveyor of straps. A visit to Gabarro’s office is evidence that he lives by those words. By rough estimate, eighty percent of his office is filled with straps—in boxes, in bags, on shelves—while the other twenty percent has a few necessities like chairs and a computer.

As watch sales continue to climb and interest in vintage timepieces grows, aftermarket straps are a way to individualize a watch and quickly and affordably change its look. New strapmakers seem to pop up almost weekly in all corners of the globe.

“Clearly people are paying more attention to details now more than ever,” says Gabarro, a native of Spain who has been collecting vintage watches for decades and selling straps almost as long. His business, Gabarro Straps, specializes in distressed leather, shell Cordovan and suede straps, providing them to many of the top vintage dealers in the U.S. The Hunt A strap is the one aesthetic component of a watch an owner can easily change, and though accessorizing an outfit has been historically associated with women, the current boom in watch strap hunting is overwhelmingly a male pursuit.

“The macro trend of men becoming more style-savvy gave the watch strap category the momentum to be something bigger than just a hobby for watch enthusiasts,” says Michael Moonwhan Park, founder of New York-based strap company, Suigeneric. “It’s a subtle yet efficient way to accentuate your style.”

Though aftermarket straps offer more unique, customized options, watch brands themselves haven’t ignored the heightened interest in straps. Many produce top quality straps that work well with the aesthetics of their watches. A few brands are even

69 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

turning to third party artisans to create them. Tudor works with the French weaver who provides robes to the Vatican to make nylon straps for some of the watches in its Heritage collection. Jaeger-LeCoultre approached the Argentinian polo boot-maker Fagliano to make leather straps for some of its Reverso line.

When IWC released its redesigned Portofino collection in 2012, it sought a suitable strap to fit with the watch’s “dolce vita” vintage Italy vibe. Fittingly, it turned to Santoni, an Italian maker of handmade shoes, and the result is leather straps whose beauty almost distracts from the watches themselves.

Each Santoni strap is hand painted and rubbed with ten layers of leather dye, producing a rich color that takes on the burnished look of a fine pair of brogues, and each strap looks slightly different.

Should your tastes run beyond the watch company catalogs however, there is no end to the options in aftermarket straps to choose from.

Given all the choices, it can be a daunting task to settle on one. Of the different kinds of straps available, three materials or types are the most popular and commonly available: the NATO strap, rubber straps and, of course, leather.

NATO he so-called “NATO” strap is, at first glance, an unlikely choice for a typical collector of high-end or vintage watches. After all, it’s made from inexpensive materials, largely mass-produced and was born of penny-pinching government contracts.

But the NATO has become hugely popular with military watch purists and urban fashionistas alike. These straps get their name from their origin on the wrists of soldiers and divers and the stock numbers assigned to them by NATO military quartermasters.

They are most commonly made from stitched and heat-welded nylon with multiple steel keepers and are typically the most affordable kind of strap.

Suigeneric Breakwater

GasGasBones Zero Zero

NATOs reporting for duty

“

THE STRAPS BECAME HUGELY POPULAR WITH THOSE WHO FAVORED TACTICAL, MILITARY-STYLE STRAPS...”

Molds for Shinola’s rubber straps, which are made in Staples, Minnesota.

The single length of material is threaded through the watch’s spring bars, providing secure retention, even if one spring bar breaks away. The authentic nylon NATO straps dry quickly, come in a rainbow of colors and patterns and can also be changed very easily since they don’t require removing spring bars.

Despite military origins, the NATO strap now comes in options that a quartermaster would never have dreamed, such as shell Cordovan, kangaroo leather or rubber.

Another new material to find its way onto a NATO strap is the waxed cotton offered by Suigeneric. The brand is squarely aimed at those who want to add a pop of color to an outfit or stand out from the usual black or drab olive military strap crowd.

But though they’re very fashionable, Suigeneric straps don’t sacrifice utility. “Waxed cotton is an inherently waterrepellent fabric that was used by sailors,” explains company owner Michael Park.

A little closer to military roots are the nylon straps made in England by a one-man shop with an odd name, GasGasBones. Carl Evans was working as a survival equipment fitter for the Royal Air Force, fixing and maintaining parachutes, harnesses and other flying gear when he got an Omega Speedmaster Professional. Evans noticed in many old photos that the straps the Apollo astronauts wore on their Speedmasters were made from nylon with a Velcro closure. Being handy with a sewing machine, Evans made his own similar strap and a few more to sell on eBay. The straps became hugely popular with those who favored tactical, military-style straps and GasGasBones was born (the name coming from Evans’s favorite motorbike brand and his own nickname).

“My nylon straps are often bought by the outdoors types or people who want or need a rugged well-made strap that can take some abuse,” says Evans.

Shinola’s new American-made rubber

Isofrane rubber

Rubber Rubber straps are utilitarian like NATO straps, but are a bit more conventional. They remain the standard for dive and other sports watches. Rubber straps are great for watersports or other active pursuits because they stay put, shed water and sweat and don’t get stinky or fall apart after repeated dunkings. And while most don’t dress up well, today’s more casual dress codes mean that rubber straps are finding their way into boardrooms and corner offices on high-end dive watches.

Rubber first its made appearance on dive watches in the 1960s. Early versions were stiff and brittle, prone to cracking after countless hours exposed to sun and saltwater.

In the early 1970s, the Isofrane brand released a soft pliable rubber strap with a massive steel buckle and large square cutouts for drainage and breathability. It quickly became standard equipment on the iconic dive watches of the era. Hublot famously made rubber straps acceptable for dressier watches in 1980.

After decades of dormancy, the Isofrane name has been revived. Made in Italy like the originals, the thick supple rubber is scented with vanilla to hide rubber’s natural

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 68

SPECIAL SPECIAL

Shell Cordovan “Bund” style strap from Minnesota-based Gabarro Straps

The Italian shoemaker, Santoni, makes straps for IWC

“

Hodinkee distressed leather

Crown & Buckle’s football leather

DISTRESSED LEATHER IS THAT WHICH HAS BEEN ARTIFICIALLY AGED...”

IWC Portofino with Santoni leather

Some of IWC’s Santoni straps with Santoni shoes to match

“

IT QUICKLY BECAME STANDARD EQUIPMENT ON THE CLASSIC DIVE WATCHES OF THE ERA.”

unpleasant odor. And, like its forebear, the new Isofranes retain the trademark angle cut end and large square buckle.

Shinola, the upstart Detroit-based brand, prides itself on its American-made watches and has recently extended that homegrown-sourcing model to its new line of rubber straps. Shinola sought the help of Stern Manufacturing, a 45-yearold custom rubber molding company in Staples, Minnesota, to produce its straps.

The resulting orange or black straps are thick and pliable with a textured back for comfort against the skin and a beefy signed buckle that is a perfect fit for Shinola’s new Runwell Sport collection.

Leather Of course, the most common straps are those made from leather, and it is also the category with the most variety. A leather strap can be thin and elegant or thick and rugged. Some pair well with slim dress watches while others are suited for a vintage pilot’s watch.

And then there are the materials. If you thought leather was merely cowhide, think again. In a quest for uniqueness, strapmakers have sought out more exotic skins from which to craft their straps—ostrich, kangaroo, or in one case, reindeer leather that had been submerged in a shipwreck off the coast of England for more than 200 years.

Another type of leather that has become more popular on watches is shell Cordovan.

Shell Cordovan is a membrane from the rump of a horse, which is then vegetabletanned for months until it takes on a beautiful shiny appearance. The resulting material is typically stiffer than most other leathers but aficionados love it for the way it “wears in,” getting softer and better with age and developing a patina like a favorite pair of shoes. It is also extremely durable.

71 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Gabarro Straps claims to have been the first to make use of shell Cordovan for watchstraps, having partnered with the legendary Chicago tannery Horween in the early 2000s. Before Gabarro got the idea, Cordovan was commonly used for making dress shoes and belts. But it’s also a perfect material for watch straps due to its durability and unique appearance that can both dress up or down. While reindeer and horsehides may be more exotic than regular leather, good old cowhide straps can still be unique. Horween tannery, in addition to their work with shell Cordovan, also happens to be the official leather supplier to the National Football League for its game balls. Crown & Buckle, a Florida-based strap company, had the epiphany that football leather would look great on a watchstrap. Their “Football” strap was then born. The strap is made from the very same pebbled, reddish-brown leather that gets kicked off every Sunday in stadiums across the United States.

Vintage Look While once upon a time, leather on a watch meant it would be shiny and padded, today straps often look as old as your favorite vintage watch. Nothing looks better on an old scarred Submariner or Speedmaster than a thick distressed leather strap, one whose patina often matches that of the watch. Distressed leather is that which has been artificially “aged” through hand rubbing, producing areas of dark and light that mimics an old pair of riding boots or a baseball glove. Whether you choose leather, rubber or a simple nylon NATO strap, or all three, swapping straps on your favorite vintage timepiece can change a look, give new life to an old watch and even lend it a newfound versatility—a dive watch can become a dress watch or a dress watch a casual watch. One watch can be made to feel it is two, three, or more, depending on how many straps you get for it.

SPECIAL SPECIAL

73

Ms iW Magazine

Rolex steel cases feature 904L stainless steel. The corrosion-resistant alloy is also found in all its steel bracelets.

Material Science YES, WATCH COMPANIES HAVE BEEN DEVELOPING NEW MATERIALS FOR

THEIR MOVEMENTS, BUT MANY HAVE ALSO CREATED NEW ALLOYS AND HIGH-TECH MATERIALS FOR THEIR CASES.

BY JASON HEATON

the past decade, mechanical movements have evolved, with innovative complications and new materials being used to ward off the deleterious effects of magnetism, friction and temperature.

But in reality, the use of new materials in movements is only half the story. Watch case design and materials are also evolving, thanks in large part to advances in material science that is producing new alloys and composites and state-of-the-art manufacturing techniques that now allow these raw materials to be shaped into functional and beautiful watch cases.

In the early days, wristwatch cases were crude, merely a pair of metal loops welded onto a pocket watch case to accommodate a strap. Most were made of a base metal, steel or brass, sometimes plated with gold. These cases dented and corroded easily and didn’t do much to protect the fragile movement inside.

In the 1920s, it was discovered that the addition of chromium and nickel to steel alloys made them largely resistant to rust. This was great for rifle barrels and cutlery; it was perfect for wristwatch cases. So-called “stainless” steel was thus born and it remains the most popular watchcase material. But stainless steel has come a long way in the past hundred years. All stainless steel is not alike, differentiated by its alloy composition, properties and intended uses. Most watch cases since the 1960s have made use of 316L stainless, which brand marketers like to tout as “surgical” steel.

Indeed, 316L is used for scalpels, clamps and other operating room ephemera for its higher-than-average corrosion resistance and relative hardness. These are worthy traits for something that rides around on a wrist through the rough and tumble of daily life.

But for Rolex, 316L wasn’t good enough. In the early 2000s, the brand switched its steel watchcases to 904L, which contains higher chromium and nickel content that

73 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

resists chemicals and corrosion even more, and is harder and more scratch resistant.

Rolex not only uses the 904L steel for cases but also for bracelets.

Why don’t more brands use 904L steel? It is very difficult to cut and shape, requiring specialized equipment, something Rolex decided was a worthy enough differentiaton into which to invest its considerable resources.

Just last year the British brand Bremont announced a partnership with Boeing, which wanted a co-branded watch to commemorate its 100th anniversary. But Boeing also wanted to contribute something significant, and additional, to the partnership.

What does an engineering company that builds jumbo jets know about the microengineering world of wristwatches? Going well beyond a mere marketing exercise, the collaboration between these two unlikely bedfellows was really all about the metal.

Boeing knows a lot about materials. In fact, it has an entire division dedicated to researching alloys and composites that can withstand the tremendous forces present on commercial and military aircraft.

One of those alloys is 465 stainless steel, which has an almost unmatched strengthto-weight ratio and a high tensile strength. While those might be qualities invaluable on a 787’s landing gear, in a wristwatch it means very high scratch resistance. Bremont is the only watch brand that uses 465 steel for its watchcases.

The weakness of any metal alloy, namely stainless steel, is its propensity to scratch.

Besides developing harder steel alloys like the 904L or 465 that Rolex and Bremont use, coating and heat-treating the steel can also harden the surface. Sinn, the German maker of rugged tool watches, has long used a process it calls tegimentation, which is a chemical hardening process that renders the watch case six times harder than standard stainless steel (2,000 Vickers versus 220 Vickers, in case you’re keeping score).

The Bremont Boeing Model 1 has a case made from the same 465 stainless steel used for Boeing’s landing gear components.

The Rolex Yacht-Master II makes use of 904L stainless steel and Rolex’s Everose gold alloy.

Ti Titanium

In the 1970s, another aircraft-grade metal, titanium, made its debut in watchcases.

While found today in everything from bicycle frames to camping cutlery, in the 1970s when Seiko, Citizen and IWC all came out with their first titanium watches, most people hadn’t heard of it. Titanium was an exotic material only used for secret spy planes and was difficult to machine, especially to the tight tolerances needed for a small watchcase.

Citizen gets credit for building the first example in 1970, while Seiko produced the first monobloc titanium dive watch in 1975. IWC is usually cited as the pioneer of titanium watches, however, first built as part of its collaboration with Porsche Design from the mid-1970s through the 1980s. Those watches, from chronographs to milspec divers, featured sleek lines and even bracelets made from titanium, making them ultra-light, anti-magnetic and highly corrosion-resistant.

Today, titanium-machining equipment is more advanced and there are countless watches made from it. Despite its winning spec sheet, titanium has never caught on like steel; many people still don’t like its dull gray finish and also prefer a heavier timepiece. Some brands like Omega and Doxa have devised finishing methods that give titanium a shiny polished appearance that mimics stainless steel. Girard-Perregaux blacks out the titanium case of its WW.TC Traveller with a Diamond-Like Coating (DLC) that not only gives the watch a stealthier appearance but also helps resist nicks and scratches, which can show up more often on a titanium case.

Au Gold Revisited

A gold watch has long been a symbol of achievement or a significant milestone or retirement. But it also fell out of favor with the new generation of watch enthusiasts that emerged in the 1990s. Gold, usually yellow gold, seemed dated and garish and has been generally avoided, even in vintage collectibles, in favor of other metals. But gold is not dead. In fact, this noblest of metals has gotten a new lease on life thanks to the innovations of several watch brands that have alloyed gold to make it more visually appealing and more durable.

As an alternative to bright yellow gold, watch companies have offered rose, or pink, gold, which alloys the gold with copper to produce a rich, warm reddish color. But traditional rose gold has an Achilles heel. Over time, rose gold tends to oxidize, fade and turn more yellow.

To counter this unwelcome patina, watch companies have added small percentages of stabilizing metals to preserve the red tones. Hublot adds copper and platinum in a proprietary stew they call King Gold. Rolex also adds platinum to its rose gold to “lock in” the red copper and calls it Everose. Omega meanwhile has created Ceragold, which actually blends in ceramic with 18-karat gold to produce an ultra-hard gold fill for the markings on ceramic bezels of its dive watches.

IWC was a pioneer in the use of titanium for watch cases. Pictured is an early chronograph developed in collaboration with Porsche Design.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 72

SPECIAL SPECIAL

The Panerai Luminor Submersible Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo won’t look like this for long if it’s exposed to moisture.

CuSn

Bronze

While patina on a gold case is undesirable, on a watchcase made from bronze, it is a goal. Bronze is not a new alloy, but its use for watchcases is. It has long been used for maritime components like anchors and bearings, where its resistance to saltwater corrosion is legendary. But it has a propensity to change color rather dramatically when exposed to moisture, whether by submersion or merely humidity in the air.

The resulting mottled green hue was never considered particularly attractive until the recent uptick in interest for vintage watches that show their age. Now bronze watches are all the rage, and brands are responding.

Panerai was arguably the first to capitalize, perhaps fittingly so given its association with the sea. Its limited edition Luminor Submersible “Bronzo” in 2011 sold out quickly and spawned another in 2013, the Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Power Reserve Automatic Bronzo. IWC has followed suit with its own bronze dive watch, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin,” also a limited edition that will patina well, especially if it is used underwater as intended.

Stainless steel, titanium, gold and bronze have come a long way, but they’re still twentieth century watchcase materials. Linde Werdelin is a brand founded in the 21st century and so it’s fitting that they’ve become known for pioneering decidedly twentyfirst century case materials.

In 2013 the company debuted the eponymous Alloy Linde Werdelin or ALW, which is a substance originally created for the aerospace industry and is half as light as titanium and twice as hard as steel when heat treated. Linde Werdelin is the only company licensed to use this proprietary alloy for watchcases and hasn’t yet revealed the chemical makeup of it.

Linde Werdelin’s new Oktopus Moon Carbon case features thin layers of carbon that are stacked, compressed and machined.

C Carbon Fiber

So far, we’ve only looked at alloyed metals used for watchcases that have served watch companies well since the beginning of, well, timekeeping. But like the trickledown effect of titanium and proprietary steel alloys from aerospace to watches, it was inevitable that carbon composites would also find their way onto the wrist. Carbon is some of the lightest, strongest material available, used for super cars, racing bicycles and yachts. It is also still relatively expensive and difficult to work with.

Carbon fiber, like the familiar mesh seen on the hull of a racing yacht, is the most recognizable form that carbon components take. IWC’s Ingenieur Automatic Carbon Performance Ceramic leaves those woven fibers naked on the sculpted case and dial of the watch, which takes direct inspiration from Formula 1 cars that use the same technique for their monocoque shells.

Audemars Piguet takes a different approach to carbon. It forges the material, a technique again derived from aerospace manufacturing. Instead of laying up layer after layer of epoxied fibers, forging carbon involves a large press that stamps out the desired shape by compressing the carbon under tremendous pressure. The resulting material has a raw, marbled appearance and is put to fitting use on AP’s Royal Oak Offshore Diver.

Yet another method of using carbon is the Three-Dimensional Thin-Ply (3DTP) used in Linde Werdelin’s new Oktopus Moon Carbon. To make the case of this watch, thin layers of carbon are stacked up to the desired shape and thickness and then compressed together and machined. Sliced through, the resulting block of material looks like a layer cake or the rings of a tree. It is extremely strong and incredibly light while having a distinctive smooth texture.

If there’s one watch company that knows a thing or two about making strong, light cases, it is Richard Mille. The company has distinguished itself by making ultra-tough mechanical watches light enough for professional tennis players, golfers and race drivers to wear, even during competition.

Though Richard Mille has made watchcases out of titanium, gold and even sapphire, it is the use of carbon nanotubes that takes case building to a new level. Carbon nanotubes are tiny cylinders made up of carbon atoms that form an interlocking honeycomb mesh. When stacked with other tubes, a tough network of shock resistant and very light material is created. Richard Mille built, among others, the case for the RM59-01 for Olympic sprinter Yohan Blake using this material. This miracle of modern materials and manufacturing happens to contain a hand-wound tourbillon movement, which is itself no small feat of engineering. But this movement tends to get overshadowed by the case that houses it.

Like we said, the movement is only half the story.

75 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Porsche Design’s new Timepiece No.1 is made with blackcoated titanium and rubber.

Hublot has its own proprietary gold known as King Gold, which it uses on its Big Bang Ferrari chronograph.

TECHNICAL TECHNICAL

Sellita offers the SW500 automatic chronograph with 25 jewels and 28,000 vph, as an alternative to the ETA (Valjoux) 7750.

Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) offers a number of finely finished manual and automatic movements from its vertically integrated facility. The S-VMF 5401/50 features a microrotor.

Caliber K ings THOUGH MANY MORE COMPANIES NOW MAKE THEIR OWN MOVEMENTS PRIMARILY IN-HOUSE, MOST CONTINUE TO REACH OUT TO ONE (OR MORE) OF THE MAJOR SWISS OR JAPANESE MOVEMENT MAKERS. HERE’S AN INTRODUCTION TO THE MAJOR PLAYERS.

BY ANTHONY YOUNG

T

wenty-five years ago, few could have predicted the resurgence and current strength of mechanical watch movement manufacturing worldwide. The growth has been driven by the demand for mechanical movements by watch companies that today recognize such movements are the essence of watch collecting for most serious collectors.

In addition, Swiss corporate decisions and the push to strengthen the coveted Swiss Made label have also had a profound impact on the number of calibers and the companies manufacturing them. For decades ETA SA has been the dominant Swiss manufacturer of mechanical movements. In 2002, the company issued a statement that it would gradually reduce and eventually stop supplying ébauches (base modules and/or loose parts) to third parties—watch companies outside the Swatch Group. This was cause for concern among many movement finishers and watch companies alike and resulted in an investigation by Switzerland’s Competition Commission (COMCO). COMCO recognized ETA’s vital role within the Swiss watch industry and over the ensuing decade worked with the mechanical movement juggernaut to ease the impact of its ongoing efforts to stop supplying movements and parts to companies outside the Swatch Group. The latest decision

by COMCO in October 2014 allows ETA to reduce the number of its movements sold to non-Swatch companies over the next six years, to end completely in 2020.

Both the early warning and the drawn-out process has allowed other Swiss movement makers and many watch companies to seek other suppliers and even start production of their own movements. While the decisions by ETA and rulings by COMCO were viewed with alarm some years ago, they have provided the impetus to movement makers and watch companies to increase their capabilities to meet the continued rising demand for mechanical movements. The final COMCO decision and the growing demand for mechanical movements justifies the investment in tooling and infrastructure to achieve this.

77 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Large-Scale Swiss Makers There are a number of well-known and lesser-known independent mechanical movement manufacturers in Switzerland and Germany today. In addition to ETA, here are the larger players in what is likely to be an expanding portion of the Swiss manufacturing community.

ETA ETA SA has twenty plants throughout Switzerland that manufacture components or assemble entire movements. It offers a wide array of automatic calibers from the diminutive 17.2 mm Caliber 2671 to the 36.6 mm Valgranges, with chronographs and manual-wind calibers a specialty. Most of the manual-wind models are legacy designs from movement companies ETA acquired during the 20th century. One example is the Caliber 7001, originally a Peseux design. The most famous manualwind movements in the ETA catalog are the Calibers 6497 and 6498, which were designed and manufactured by Unitas from the early 1950s.

Sellita Sellita was founded in 1950 and is headquartered in La Chaux-de-Fonds. When several of ETA’s long-established movement patented designs expired and became public domain several years ago, Sellita saw an opportunity to offer comparable models. Today it offers the SW200 (based on the ETA 2824), the SW300 (based on the ETA 2892), and most recently added the SW500 as an alternative to the ETA (Valjoux) 7750 chronograph movement. Sellita still has to purchase escapements from ETA though it is designing its own and these will eventually be incorporated into its existing calibers.

Technotime Technotime SA is a younger and much smaller company founded in 2001 in Les Brenets within the Le Locle district. While only producing roughly 1,000 move-

New caliber-maker ValSwiss is a supplier to C.T. Scuderia, among other brands.

ments per month, it has three movements of its own design and manufacture with twin main barrels.

The Cal. TT-781 is a manual-wind movement and the Caliber TT-738.00 is an automatic movement with a five-day power reserve. Technotime’s capability is proven in its Caliber TT-791 tourbillon, which is offered is six different references. Most significant is Technotime’s production of hairsprings; this will become increasingly important to other movement manufacturers, most of which continue to rely on the Swatch Group’s Nivarox division for this critical component.

The Rolex Caliber 4161 as configured for its Yacht Master II features a true regatta countdown feature. It is a column-wheel chronograph and has a chronometer certification.

ValSwiss ValSwiss AG is perhaps Switzerland’s youngest and smallest movement manufacturer.

It opened for business in 2010 in Quartino near the Italian border. It presently manufactures five different automatic calibers with varying module complications. Providing it can acquire the components it does not manufacture itself, ValSwiss is well positioned to grow along with the rising demand for mechanical movements.

La Joux-Perret/Citizen La Joux-Perret is based in La Chaux-de-Fonds and employs 170 people. The company makes numerous modules and movements, reportedly more than 50,000 units of both varieties in total per year, and performs many stamping, machining and finishing operations for many other Swiss mechanical movements. The company is a source for many top Swiss manufacturing companies and watch brands. Citizen, which of course offers its own Miyota workhorse mechanical movements to brands worldwide, purchased La Joux-Perret in 2012.

Chronode Ten years ago Jean-Francois Mojon opened Chronode SA in Le Locle with the ambitious plan of producing some of the most complex and exquisite movements to Switzerland’s most prestigious watch brands and providing design services to realize design ideas of its clients. His collaborations include Harry Winston, MB&F and HYT, among others. In recent years he has produced several in-house calibers, including a tourbillon, having a total annual build of roughly 1,500 movements.

The ETA Valgranges Ca. A07.171 with a diameter of 36.6 mm was designed to meet the requirements of larger watch cases. The automatic movement has 24 jewels and a frequency of 28,800 vph.

Soprod Owned by the Les Reussilles-based Swiss Festina Group, Soprod is a large-scale quartz and mechanical movement maker with most movement production supplied to other watch brands. Soprod has a production capacity of over 100,000 units per year of its SOP A10 automatic movement, often compared to the ETA 2892.

Dubois-Depraz This distinguished manufacturer, founded in 1901, creates high-end complication modules for top brands in Switzerland, Germany and England. Its specialty is chronographs and perpetual calendars and it supplies flyback modules for some of the best-known models in Switzerland. Employing 150 people, its two locations in Le Lieu, Switzerland, in the heart of the Swiss Jura, make components for other companies and complete subcontracting for individual brands.

Brands to Manufactures Rolex stands as the premier example of vertical integration of all components manufactured for its watches. This was a corporate goal years ago and the Geneva-based luxury watchmaker has long had the financial resources to do so. Of course, many Richemont brands, especially Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, Panerai and Vacheron Constantin, have made in-house movement manufacturing a top priority.

IWC recently announced major manufacturing expansion, while Cartier recently added massive in-house caliber production.

Technotime offers a tourbillon movement with its Caliber TT 791. Its twin barrels provide a generous 120-hour power reserve.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 76

TECHNICAL TECHNICAL

Perrelet utilizes Soprod movements. Both companies are part of the Festina Group.

The ValSwiss VS24/7 is a workhorse automatic movement made to supply the entry-level mechanical watch market.

Hermès is a part owner of Vaucher, which supplies many of the brand’s more complex calibers.

The Chronode Cal. C501 has 24-hour audible alarm capability and is chronometer certified. All settings are made using the winding stem, and the alarm is turned off by a pusher at 4 o’clock.

Many independent Swiss companies, such as Chopard and Breitling, have realized the wisdom and attendant prestige of becoming a manufacture of their own proprietary movements. Chopard produces variants of its L.U.C calibers and Breitling its Cal. 01 made in its dedicated La Chaux-de-Fonds Chronometrie. Breguet acquired the famed Lémania movement maker some years ago, Hublot purchased its primary complications firm BNP Concept several years ago while Audemars Piguet utilizes its partners Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi extensively.

Likewise, Montblanc several years ago purchased the manufacture Minerva in Villeret. Eterna is returning to its movement manufacturing roots, and offers a Caliber 7750 variant, the Caliber 39, in quantity to other watch companies. Zenith has made its El Primero chronograph movement since 1969 and refined and improved it over the decades. That high-speed movement has also found its way into LVMH brands TAG Heuer, Bulgari and Hublot.

Parmigiani Fleurier is another example of vertical integration, but with a twist. In 2003 the company established its in-house movement maker as a separate unit and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier (VMF) was born, housed in a new 6,700-square-meter manufacturing facility in 2009. This was done to provide its movements to other watch brands such as Corum, Richard Mille and Hermès as well as Parmigiani Fleurier. Most recently, VMF has established a private label division. The company overall has five distinct caliber families and an annual production of just over 20,000 units. The company plans to boost production to 35,000 units in the near term.

The Festina Group, headquartered in Bienne, has the benefit of two movement divisions. High-end movements are made by Manufacture Horlogère Vallée de Joux (MHVJ) in Le Sentier and entry to mid-grade movements are manufactured by its Soprod division in Les Reussilles just west of Tramelan. Less than ten percent of total movement production is supplied to its in-house brands, including Perrelet and L. Leroy.

Over the last decade, U.S.-based Fossil has worked to acquire Swiss firms in an effort to have Swiss Made brands and meet the requirements of that prestigious moniker. In 2012 it acquired the small movement firm PWP and the design of its 26-jewel automatic movement. The firm was renamed Swiss Technology Production SA and has increased production of the STP1-11 movement in the town of Manno in southern Switzerland for its in-house brands like Zodiac, Burberry and Emporio Armani. It assembled 130,000 movements in 2014 with a production goal of 200,000 in 2015.

Germany and Japan The epicenter of German mechanical movement manufacture and of watchmaking itself is in Glashütte within the district of Saxony. The town is home to A. Lange & Söhne (1845), Glashütte Original, and Nomos (1990). They are all manufactures, making mechanical movements of their own design. The movements of A. Lange & Söhne are exquisite and complex works of art, all in-house Glashütte Original has a broad luxury market focus, and Nomos is often the choice of those buying their first German-made watch.

79 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Glashütte Original’s Caliber 37 is among the German company’s newest integrated chronograph calibers.

During the early 20th century, Germany had an impressive watch movement and watchmaking industry. World War II devastated much of this. One of the revived movement makers is Durowe in Engelsbrand, south of Pforzheim. The Durowe Caliber 7440 manual-wind movement is supplied to Stowa for a number of its models.

There are a number of mechanical movement manufacturers in Japan, but Seiko is known for making both entry level and very high-end mechanical movements for its watches. The 21-jewel automatic day-date Caliber 7S26, in particular, has been manufactured in the millions and continues to be the workhorse in many affordable Seiko 5 models to this day.

The Grand Seiko has been the company’s finest watch, first offered in 1960. It was designed to exceed the performance specifications of the Swiss chronometer certification. Today, the Grand Seiko is assembled around the Caliber 9S having 221 components, with one variant operating at an impressive 36,000 vph. The movements and watches are assembled at Morioka Seiko Instruments Shizuku-ishi Watch Studio. Each Grand Seiko undergoes more than 1,000 hours of testing and inspection before receiving its certificate. And of course Citizen’s in-house Miyota mechanical movements are found in many brands.

U

L T R COMPLEX

A

BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

BVLGARI FEATURES RARELY SEEN WATCHMAKING TECHNIQUES IN ITS RECORD-BREAKING FINISSIMO ULTRA-THIN MODELS AND A MINUTE REPEATER.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, with its 1.95mm-thick movement, makes this flying tourbillon the slimmest on the market.

W

ith a movement thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin, Bulgari’s Finissimo models mark the Italo-Swiss brand’s dramatic entrance into the ultrathin watch market. First seen at last year’s Baselworld, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection made waves among collectors as Bulgari, with watches ranging from minute repeaters to sporty chronographs to ladies’ highly jeweled bracelet models, wasn’t especially known for attention to the rarified ultrathin timepiece sub-category. “In a lot of minds Bulgari was not expected to do this,” agrees the company’s chief watch designer Fabrizio Buonamassa. “But we can make chiming watches and all the other types, so we wanted something to break the rules.”

More than four years ago he and his designers sent the first sketches for what became the Finissimo collection to his watchmaking team, which at first created a design with a caseback. “We told them right away that we didn’t want the caseback at all,” he recalls, pushing the idea of an ultra-thin model to the next level. “It was then that we realized that this project was a really a two-dimensional one because we lose the entire third dimension: the depth.” The Octo Finissimo collection thus far includes a three-hand model with its sub-seconds at 8 o’clock and a tourbillon model, the latter being the thinnest example yet seen from any watchmaker. Buonamassa notes that from the start, the tourbillon design had to incorporate several solutions to reduce the overall thickness. The starting point was the tourbillon cage. At a record-setting 1.95mm thick, it shaped the rest of the watch’s design. “With this watch we started from the movement,” he explained. “The most important thing here is the mechanics, and we wanted to design something to celebrate this achievement.” Once incorporated into the plate, the tourbillon cage determined the thickness of the entire movement. The overall architecture also includes two bridges, one for the minute wheel and the other for the gear train of the tourbillon cage, which rotates once a minute.

To maintain its thin profile, seven ball bearings assist the moving parts and are positioned on the basic movement, while the tourbillon cage has a cartridge bearing that allows it to pivot. The final ball bearing lets the escape wheel pivot. Bulgari then eliminated the regulator assembly as the watch’s timing is adjusted on the balance wheel

THE DETENT E S C A PE M E NT

The the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo (The Admiral of Time), with a Westminster Chime minute repeater. Note that one of the watch’s lugs is, in fact, moveable and serves as the repeater slide, gliding from 7 o’clock to 8 o’clock to trigger the minute repeater.

directly. The barrel is kept in position and guided by three ball bearings, a solution that also allowed the height of the mainspring to double, yielding an impressive fifty-five hour power reserve. “This (Finissimo) is a high-complication watch,” adds Buonamassa. “It’s like jewels for a man because for ladies we talk about colors, gemstones and amazing cut. For men we talk about these kinds of horological jewels. Our client doesn’t come to Bulgari for something commonplace. We are a strong contemporary brand, not with a vintage design. While it might originate in our archive, it’s absolutely contemporary.”

The time-only model Octo Finissimo offers a full seventy hours of power reserve.

Both are made only in platinum (thus far) and measure 40mm in diameter and 5mm thick. Bulgari notes that the fairly large diameter (36mm) hand-wound Finissimo caliber itself offers enough torque to allow the company to debut new models with added functions in the future.

Complicated Chimes While there are horology purists that will argue whether or not ultra-thin calibers, despite their rarity, are considered a classic complication, no one will deny that a minute repeater firmly belongs in this category. In its Daniel Roth-inspired line, Bulgari last year debuted a limited edition model, the L’Ammiraglio del Tempo (The Admiral of Time), with a Westminster Chime minute repeater, but then expanded the watch’s complexity by adding two rarely seen devices: a detent escapement and a constant-force device.

Both these devices ensure precision (see sidebar) while yet another novel approach adds further complexity – and user simplicity – to the design. Note that one of the watch’s lugs is, in fact, movable and serves as the repeater slide, gliding from 7 o’clock to 8 o’clock to trigger the minute repeater. This innovative device ensures that the watch’s smooth case middle does not exhibit a protruding repeater slide typically used in most chiming watches. This L’Ammiraglio del Tempo’s 50mm-diameter pink gold or white gold case frames a partially open dial that reveals the rare detent escapement as well as the striking hammers and gongs. Bulgari will make twenty examples in pink gold and ten examples in white gold.

The vast majority of mechanical watches today are fitted with lever escapements and, indeed, very few other types of escapements are used. The detent escapement, similar to the escapement Bulgari employs in its L’Ammiraglio del Tempo, originated in the 18th century, a time when the maritime nations vied for dominion of the world’s oceans. It was also a time when watchmakers competed to produce the most accurate time-keeping instruments. There was a very good reason for this: in an era when satellites did not exist, sailors determined their geographical position at sea by astronomical observation, as well as by using the most accurate possible time calculations. The difficulties inherent in existing methods were compounded by the necessity of ensuring the greatest possible stability of the time standard – meaning on-board timekeeping instruments – despite the inevitable pitching and rolling of the ship. Not only did the detent escapement guarantee the regularity and rating precision of marine chronometers, the escapement served an intermediate function of regulating both the energy supplied by the barrel spring and its retransmission and redistribution to the balance.

While contemporary devices involve two impulses imparted to the balance via the lever, the detent escapement was, and still is, built in such a way that the entire device generates a single impulse by retransmitting energy directly from the escape wheel to the balance. Today, this might not seem very meaningful, but it was of crucial importance to sailors two and a half centuries ago. The reduced friction meant greater precision for the chronometers that used the detent escapement. Source : Bulgari

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 78

WATCH GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

MINUTE REPEATERS

BY RACHEL GOLD

Valued by many as the ultimate complication, repeaters not only sound beautiful, but are also are quite useful. These watches were designed to tell the time by the press of a slide to initiate sound. In the past when nightfall meant wrist visibility was difficult if not impossible, the use of variable-toned chimes allowed the wearer to hear the time without having to actually read their watch. Repeaters remain some of the most complicated and interesting timepieces, and are only made by a few companies. Take a look at the following pages to view a selection of repeaters from a variety of brands. If only we could insert a “push play” option into these iW pages... Use your imagination!

1 | JAQUET DROZ The Bird Repeater This sculptural timepiece is powered by the Jaquet Droz manual winding movement and is wound by the minute repeater lever.

To achieve the realism of this scene no less than eight different animation mechanisms act together to display the movement of the birds’ heads and wings, the movement of the fledglings, the hatching of the egg and the sparkle of the flowing water.

The hand-engraved case measures 47mm.

2 | BREGUET

3 | HARRY WINSTON

Minute Repeater Ref. 7637ER/10/9ZU

Midnight Minute Repeater

This 42mm rose gold timepiece is a boutique exclusive. It offers a finely fluted case and a sapphire-crystal caseback. The dial is silvered 18-karat gold made on a handengraved rose engine. A hand-wound movement with minute repeater powers the numbered, signed and hand-engraved watch.

Harry Winston caliber HW1006 powers this 42mm gold timepiece. The watch is offered in a limited edition of twenty pieces in rose gold, and twenty pieces in white gold. The construction of this watch makes gongs and hammers visible with easy to hear.

81 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

5 | BLANCPAIN Villeret Minute Repeater This rare self-winding minute repeater features a stamped opaline dial as well as a cathedral gong. The case measures 40mm and is pictured in red gold with a sapphire crystal caseback and water resistance of 30 meters. The watch is presented on an alligator leather strap.

4 | ATELIERS DE MONACO

6 | BVLGARI

Minute Repeater Round

L’Ammiraglio Del Tempo

Featured in rose gold, this 45mm timepiece (from a sister brand to Frederique Constant and Alpina) is powered by a tourbillon repetition minute TB-RM1 manual winding movement with chiming hours, quarters and minutes on command. The dial features gold hand-cut Roman skeletonized numerals; the hands are also solid gold.

This gold timepiece features four hammers and gongs, a minute repeater with Westminster chime. A moveable left lug (pictured) winds the repeater. Inside is a rarely seen detent escapement and a constant-force device. Its name, ‘The Admiral of Time’ in Italian, refers to the maritime universe.

7 | CORUM

8 | F.P. JOURNE

Admiral’s Cup Legend 46

Répétition Souveraine

This limited-edition minute repeater marks off time by chords, rather than single notes. It is equipped with four gongs and four hammers, simultaneously striking in pairs. The case measures 46mm and is twelve-sided. A manual-winding movement with a 100-hour power reserve powers the watch. Its movement features hand-finished bridges and mainplate.

This 40mm timepiece is Francois-Paul Journe’s first ultra-flat minute-repeater. The dial is silver guilloché with a discrete window between 9 and 10 o’clock. It features the hammers striking the gongs at the hour, the quarters and the minutes, which can be activated by pressing an indented slide on the left of the case.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 80

WATCH GUIDE WATCH GUIDE

10 | HUBLOT Classic Fusion Tourbillon Minute Repeater This watch is powered by a new Hublot Manufacture movement with double cathedral chime and is housed within a 45mm case. The piece has a five-day power reserve and is water-resistant to thirty meters. This is a limited series of 99 titanium timepieces, of all which are numbered.

9 | GIRARD-PERREGAUX

11 | MANUFACTURE ROYALE

1966 Minute Repeater

Opera

Housed within a 42mm polished pink gold case with antireflective sapphire crystal, this timepiece features a minute repeater and offers a dial of ‘grand feu’ enamel with pink gold applied numerals and leaf-shaped blued and diamond-polished hands. The watch is powered by a manual winding movement that has a 100 hour power reserve.

The 50mm gold watch combines a minute repeater and a tourbillon and offers a long 108-hour power reserve. The case is patented and features an opening and closing inspired by an ancient church organ’s powerful chimes. The watch is presented on a hand-crafted rolled-edge alligator leather strap.

12 | PATEK PHILIPPE

13 | PIAGET

Ref. 5213G-010

Emperador Coussin XL

A Patek Philippe mechanical self-winding movement powers this white gold 40.6mm timepiece, and features a minute repeater as well as perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand. The chime sounds two gongs that are activated by a slide piece in the case. The dial displays day, month, and leap year in apertures as well as moon phases and a seconds subdial.

This pink gold timepiece features Manufacture Piaget 1290P, one of the world’s thinnest mechanical self-winding minute repeater movements (4.8mm), and a case that measures only 9.4mm thick. Functions include hours and minutes.

83 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

15 | TUTIMA Hommage Minute Repeater This timepiece is powered by a mechanical hand-winding movement that is housed with in a 43mm rose gold or platinum case.

The watch features a 72-hour power reserve and is a limited edition: twenty pieces in rose gold, fifteen pieces with full dial and five pieces with open dial. Only five platinum pieces are available. The dial is solid gold and the hands are handcrafted in gold or blued steel.

14 | ROGER DUBUIS

16 | ULYSSE NARDIN

Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic

Jazz Minute Repeater

Part of the Hommage Collection, the new calibre RD104 minute repeater tourbillon automatic movement powers this watch.

The timepiece features leaf-type hands, a sunray guilloche motif, Roman numerals, a concave bezel and broad inner bezel ring, visible repeater mechanism and a limited-edition number engraved on the case side.

Housed within a 42mm platinum case and presented on an alligator leather strap, a manual winding in-house movement propels this timepiece. Functions include a Jaquemarts minute repeater, chiming hours, quarters and minutes. The dial is black onyx with animated musicians in 18-karat gold. This is an 18-piece limited edition.

17 | VACHERON CONSTANTIN

18 | ZENITH

Patrimony Ultra-Thin Caliber 1731

Academy Minute Repeater

This 41mm pink gold Hallmark-of-Geneva-certified timepiece features an ultra-thin mechanical manual-winding movement developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin featuring a 65-hour power reserve. Dial indications include: hours, minutes, small seconds at 8 o’clock and the minute repeater.

This 45mm rose gold timepiece features a white enamel dial with applied gold Roman numerals and rhodium-plated, goldplated hands. The dial features hours and minutes in the center, small seconds hand at 9 o’clock and the minute repeater.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 82

AUCTIONS Antiquorum SELLS AUCTIONS

Patek PhiliPPe Ref. 2499 and elvis PResley’s Omega

Omega black dial Constellation calendar previously owned by Elvis Presley

A

ntiquorum in December sold a rare Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 Second Series with tachometer scale and Arabic indexes (lot 274) for $867,750.

Antiquorum offered the timepiece at its New York auction, and after several minutes of competitive bidding received the winning bid via telephone.

The watch, pictured here, is a Ref. 2499 yellow gold watch, made in 1968 and sold on September 6, 1968.

The watch features a round button chronograph, 30-minute register, perpetual

Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

calendar,moon phases, tachometer scale and an 18-karat gold Patek Philippe buckle.

At the same auction Antiquorum also sold an Omega black dial Constellation calendar previously owned by Elvis Presley for $37,500. Presley later gifted the watch to his close friend Charlie Hodge. The final bid was nearly four times its low estimate. All told, Antiquorum’s December 11 sale totaled $4,691,975. The collection of 275 timepieces sold 118% by value with sales made to buyers in China, Hong Kong, Singapore, the United Arab Emirates, Italy and the United States.

BonhAmS Bond StrEEt SELLS ChronomEtEr from daRwin’s hms Beagle

Bonhams in December sold a second and previously unknown marine chronometer used on the second and third voyages of the HMS Beagle, in 1836 and 1837.

The clock doubled its pre-sale estimate, selling for $153,058,including buyer’s premium.

The clock is the only known marine chronometer in private hands that was present on board HMS Beagle when Charles Darwin visited the Galapagos Islands in 1835, where he recorded and collected specimens of the flora and fauna that would lead to his momentous theory of evolution by natural selection, published in his seminal work The Origin of Species in 1859.

One of six owned personally by Captain Robert FitzRoy, commander of the Beagle during Darwin’s voyage, this chronometer performed so well that the Admiralty decided to purchase it from FitzRoy in 1837. The government continued to employ the chronometer on various ships well into the twentieth century.

Bonhams in London also featured wristwatches in a separate sale on the same day. For that event, the British auction house sold a rare Reference 3974 Patek Philippe for $331,449, and also saw spirited bidding for Rolex, Girard-Perregaux, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin watches.

“We’re observing the demand for complicated Patek Philippe watches such as chronographs and minute repeaters growing ever stronger, whilst remaining buoyant is the trend for sports Rolex models and the much-loved Rolex DayDate—something we expect to remain strong well into the auctions in 2105,” said Paul Maudsley, director of the Bonhams watch department. “At our final fine watch sale, Reference 3974, the much-coveted Patek Philippe 18-karat gold automatic perpetual calendar minute repeating wristwatch circa 1989, became one of the most valuable pieces we’ve sold this year.”

85 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Further sale highlights include the unusual Ulysse Nardin ‘Trilogy of Time,’ sold to a Hong Kong bidder for $109,370. The series comprises the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei (at the time this was reported in the Guinness Book of World Records as the most complex watch ever made), the Planetarium Copernicus, and the Tellurium. Bringing a royal flair to the sale, a Rolex gold watch made for the Sultanate of Oman, bearing the traditional Khanjar (dagger) emblem, sold for $49,300, almost double its original estimate.

Further sale highlights include a Girard-Perregaux rare rose gold automatic tourbillon wristwatch ($39,819) and a Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ bracelet watch ($13,674), not pictured.

HISTORICAL HISTORICAL

2DECADES LANGE1 of

THeRe’S A LAnge 1 wATCH fOR neARLy eACH Of THe TwenTy yeARS SInCe ITS debuT mARked THe ReTuRn Of mAnufACTuRIng AT A. LAnge & SöHne.

A

B C

G

lashütte-based A. Lange & Söhne looks back at each of the fifteen Lange 1 models produced since the debut of the first model in 1994.

With an asymmetric dial, a three-day movement and the first large date to be serially produced, the Lange 1 garnered both critical and popular acclaim soon after that debut. A. Lange & Söhne applied its rekindled technical expertise to the collection from the very start and in the years since has continued to innovate and expand the Lange 1’s features without meddling much with its core asymmetry and big date.

The fifteen Lange 1 models feature various case diameters and can be found as manually wound or self-winding watches. Functions added over the two decades include a moon-phase display, a second time zone, a combination tourbillon and perpetual calendar, and even a high-lume version with semi-transparent dial.

Collectors today look for limited editions on the auction market. Earlier this year a rare steel Lange 1 sold at Christie’s for 82,150 euros, or about $104,000.

We’ve pictured a selection of Lange 1 models as photographed by A. Lange & Söhne to celebrate the manufacturing capabilities in the years since Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson Walter Lange re-launched the brand. Captions courtesy A. Lange & Söhne.

87 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

D

F

E

A | LAnge 1 (1994)

The Lange 1 perpetuates the tradition of historic A. Lange & Söhne masterpieces. It won instant acclaim when it premiered twenty years ago. This was due to its combination of traditional elements that are unique to Saxony’s watchmaking heritage, such as the three-quarter plate, the screwed gold chatons, and the screw balance as well as innovations including the outsize date, the asymmetric dial layout and a three-day movement.

b | grAnd LAnge 1 Moon PhASe (2014)

Calculated to an accuracy of 122.6 years, the moon-phase display of this latest member of the Lange 1 family occupies a prominent place on the main dial.

c | LAnge 1 dAyMAtic (2010)

The first self-winding Lange 1, this Lange 1 Daymatic, distinguishes itself from the manually wound model with its mirror-image dial configuration. A retrograde day-of-week display takes the place of the power-reserve indicator.

d | LAnge 1 tourbiLLon PerPetuAL cALendAr (2012)

The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar unites two classic complications in the Lange 1 style. The simultaneously advancing calendar displays outside the hour and minute circles.

e|

f| Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson Walter Lange relaunched A. Lange & Söhne in 1990, with its first model, the Lange 1, debuting in 1994. Today, Lange crafts only a few thousand gold or platinum watches per year, each with a proprietary movement decorated and assembled by hand. In a period of only twenty years, A. Lange & Söhne has developed forty-nine manufacture calibers.

grAnd LAnge 1 “LuMen” (2012 – LiMited to 200 WAtcheS) The Grand Lange 1 “Lumen” in platinum is enlightening: a semi-transparent dial reveals the mechanism of the first luminous outsize date display. The technical challenge was to preserve the luminosity of the date display after the switching process. The solution: a transparent units ring with black numerals that rotates above a rectangle coated with a luminous compound.

LAnge 1 tourbiLLon PerPetuAL cALendAr hAndWerkSkunSt (2013 – LiMited to 15 WAtcheS) One year after the original market launch, the horological magnum opus with the two eponymous complications was presented in a limited Handwerkskunst edition. The tremblage and relief engravings of the solid-gold dial and of various movement parts are among the highlights of this platinum watch. The blue numerals of the Lange outsize date are painted by hand.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 86

ON THE WRIST ON THE WRIST

A CLOSER LOOK

Porsche Design’s Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition

PORSCHE DESIGN CHRONOGRAPH TITANIUM LIMITED EDITION

BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

P

orsche Design signaled its intentions quickly last year after separating from Eterna, with which it had been producing a variety of sober, technical timepieces during the years the two companies worked together. (In fact, you can read my review of the Porsche Design Worldtimer timepiece made during this period in the March 2013 edition of iW). Last year Porsche Design set up its own Swiss-based timepiece division, named former Eterna technical director Patrick Kury its chief, and a few months ago debuted two new timepieces.

The new models, the first developed solely by the new Porsche Design Timepieces AG (based in Solothurn, Switzerland) have a two-fold purpose. First, they signal the start of the new wholly Porsche-centric design and production process for its timepieces.

Secondly, these new pieces recall the groundbreaking characteristics of the two most successful early models produced by the brand in the 1970s and 1980s, the Timepiece 1 and the Titanium Chronograph, which were matte black and made from titanium respectively. In fact, that titanium timepiece from 1980 is often considered the first all-titanium case-bracelet model anywhere.

Anyone who knowns or owns any of those early models will recognize these newest watches—which is, of course, the point. These first models in the 2015 series, the Porsche Design Timepiece No. 1 at right and the Porsche Design Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition, are each made in a 500-piece limited edition, and are both immediately recognizable as no-nonsense chronographs.

The latter model, which I have been wearing for a week or so, feels light on the wrist, which is not too surprising given its titanium case and clasp. But even outfitted with a not especially thin ETA Valjoux automatic chronograph movement, the watch didn’t press my wrist nearly as noticeably as others made with this workhorse caliber.

Perhaps the padded calfskin strap worked its magic on my senses.

The black dial here offers white markers that include five-minute indications on an internal flange. When viewed in combination with the tachymeter’s black markers on the (stationary) bezel, the watch’s decidedly technical and automotive forebears show themselves clearly. The same red chronograph seconds hand as those earlier models appears here (and on the Timepiece No. 1) as a nostalgic and still practical reminder that Porsche Design insists on easy-to-read dials.

The matte finish here is the color of technology–just slightly darker than my aluminum cell phone. As a result, it tells me it’s there to perform its function rather than broadcast my wealth or status. The matte black edition would likely send a different message— perhaps of an interest in stealthy fashion. Either way, these watches are the opposite of bling. I suspect only those who wear or own other Porsche Design products could identify the firm’s logo from any distance, especially since it appears very small on the

89 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

dial, just above the Porsche Design name. Finally, the aforementioned padded calfskin strap is more functional than luxurious, and to my taste sets itself a bit far from the case. I generally prefer a more integrated strap that fits tight onto the case, as Porsche Design appears to have done for the black Timepiece No. 1 with its seemingly integrated rubber strap. As I haven’t worn that model, I can’t speak directly to the actual fit, but in pictures it appears tighter than the leather strap. The titanium clasp is excellent. It’s simple to size and it snaps securely with little effort.

Porsche Design assures us that the genes of Ferdinand Alexander Porsche are embedded in these new models. Indeed, when he designed those original models more than forty years ago Porsche referred to these principles: optimal readability, technical perfection, highest quality materials and a focus on functionality. With the watch on my wrist as a tangible indication of what’s in store from the new Porsche Design timepieces, I’m convinced those guiding principles have been followed to the letter.

SPECIFICATIONS

MOVEMENT: ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph; officially certified chronometer (COSC) with Porsche Design Icon rotor, 48-hour power reserve.

FUNCTIONS: Hour, minute and second display; stopwatch function (seconds, minutes and hours); date display.

DIAL: Matte black galvanic dial; matte white numerals and indexes; white luminescent bar indexes; black galvanic, high-polish Porsche Design Icon; small seconds hand at 9 o’clock; 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock; 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock; date indicator at 3 o’clock; black galvanic and highpolish white luminescent hour and minute hands; matte white small seconds hand; matte red chronograph second hand; matte white chronograph hour and minute hands.

CASE: 42mm bead-blasted titanium case; height 14.62 mm; tachymeter scale on the bezel; screw-down crown; convex, scratchresistant and double-coated anti-reflective sapphire crystal; screwed caseback with black-tinted sapphire crystal opening; water resistant to 50 meters STRAP: Black calfskin strap with black stitching; bead-blasted folding clasp made of titanium and stain- less steel.

SLOOP

( EB-1018 )

Inspired by the sleek silhouette of sail boats, the Sloop is handcrafted from state of the art carbon fiber, surgical grade stainless steel, and Superluminova.

The disappearing clip mechanism is engineered from thirteen gears and components bridging horology with the art of pen making. Each writing instrument is made and numbered in Switzerland, guaranteeing exceptional quality and uniqueness.

VISIT US DURING BASELWORLD At the SWISS CREATIVE LAB 19th to 26th March at Ramada Plaza Hotel, 3rd Floor.

To set up an appointment write to: info@edelberg.ch

edelberg.ch

PASSIONS PASSIONS

WORK & LEISURE

THE GALÁPAGOS

BY LAURIE KAHLE

EVOLVED

Pikaia Lodge brings unprecedented luxury to the Galápagos, sited on top of an extinct volcano crater with panoramic views of an unspoiled landscape.

PIKAIA LODGE INTRODUCES SOPHISTICATED FIVE-STAR LUXURY TO THE ENCHANTED ISLANDS.

W

ith a push off the side of the inflatable Zodiac boat, we plunge into the cool waters off North Sherman Island in the Galápagos archipelago for a snorkel. The current pulls us to and fro as it crashes against the black lava coast while we swim among abundant schools of colorful fish. The crystal clear waters of the world’s second largest marine reserve attract the most diverse marine life on the planet with twenty percent of species endemic to the islands, meaning they are not found anywhere else. The same may be said for other native animals, such as the peppy Galápagos penguins and prehistoric-looking marine iguanas, which don’t flinch when you approach them on the beaches.

“The magic of the Galápagos is that the islands were isolated for so many millions of years that the animals evolved with no predator, so they didn’t develop aggressive and defensive behaviors toward human beings,” says Herbert Frei, president of Pikaia Lodge, a new boutique hotel on the centrally located island of Santa Cruz. “There are very few places in the world where you can get very close to the animals, and it is the same underwater here.”

An expert diver, Frei formerly operated luxury dive cruises for more than twenty years before he switched to terra firma and developed Pikaia Lodge, the first, and most luxurious, hotel to be built in the Galápagos in more than a decade. The project took seven years to complete, five of which were spent conducting environmental impact studies, finalizing the environmentally sustainable LEED-certified designs, and securing permits.

Rather than book by the night like a typical hotel, the Pikaia Lodge

91 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Days at Pikaia Lodge blend land exploration with days exploring the slands at sea on the Pikaia I yacht.

“

In Galápagos, there is not a typical architecture, so we decided to go for something very modern, minimalistic, and comfortable.”

Rooms and suites are spacious, modern and minimalist, allowing the natural surroundings to shine.

Blue-footed boobies are one of the rare species that have made Galápagos a bucket-list destination for nature lovers.

experience is structured more like a cruise with various excursions. Guests choose from three-, four-, and seven-night packages designed to ensure that you see most of the endemic species that are the islands’ claim to fame. The programs include days at sea on one of Frei’s former dive yachts venturing to the surrounding islands with stops for snorkeling, hiking, beach visits and traversing massive black lava fields that make you feel as if you landed on another planet. Since the boat was built for live-onboard cruising, the vessel is stable and comfortable with each party assigned a cabin with en suite bath for the day. Land tours include stops at a giant tortoise sanctuary and the Charles Darwin Research Station in Puerto Ayora, the main port in Santa Cruz.

“The Galápagos is not a place to come hang out at a hotel and do nothing,” says Frei. “We have exploration packages so guests can have a complete Galápagos experience regardless of their length of stay. It’s a very active holiday for all age groups.”

Sited on an extinct volcano crater, Pikaia Lodge offers fourteen expansive rooms and suites with sweeping views of the unspoiled countryside and the deep blue Pacific Ocean in the distance. Of course, given the ecological sensitivity of the place, great effort went into sustainable systems including rooftop water collection, water recycling and treatment and solar power.

“In Galápagos, there is not a typical architecture, so we decided to go for something very modern, minimalistic, and comfortable,” says Frei, who adopted an evolutionary theme with fossils and commissioned artworks. A huge aluminum sculpture of the DNA double helix by Ecuadoran artist Larissa Marangoni is the centerpiece of the Evolution restaurant, where executive chef Norman Brandt blends Peruvian and Ecuadorian influences drawing heavily on locally sourced produce, meats and seafood. Frei named the hotel for an ancient fishlike creature, the extinct Pikaia, which was an early ancestor of invertebrates dating to the Cambrian period 530 million years ago.

“There is a deeper purpose that is reflected in the art and decoration,” he explains. “We would like our guests to dedicate a few thoughts to evolution and gain a deeper understanding of the wonders of nature.”

Three-night packages start at $3,700 per person double occupancy, including guided excursions and meals. See pikaialodgegalapagos.com for additional details. Laurie Kahle writes about travel and time for ateliermagazine.com.

Charles Darwin’s observations of the wildlife of Galápagos during the five weeks he spent there in 1835 planted the seeds for his theory of evolution, published in his 1859 book, On the Origin of Species.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 90

MARKET MARKET

&

UPDATES DEBUTS BVLGARI

Blancpain

Octo Maserati

Saint Valentine’s Day 2015

To mark the centenary last year of the Italian car manufacturer Maserati, Bulgari decided to drive this Octo Maserati with a high-speed movement called Velocissimo, meaning “the fastest.” The 36,000 vph BVL 328 caliber is based on the high-beat Zenith El Primero movement and features a silicon escapement and an oscillating pinion operating as a clutch. The 41.5mm steel case features a tachometric scale on the bezel. The semi-transparent blue caseback offers a Maserati logo. Bulgari will make 1,914 Octo Maserati chronographs, in tribute to the founding year of Maserati.

It’s never too late for a gift of beauty.

Case + Material: 36.8mm white gold with 121 diamonds.

Movement: Off center in-house automatic with inlaid mother-of-pearl on rotor.

Dial: Varying layers of mother-of-pearl with inlaid rose. The two intertwined rows of different-sized stones are reminiscent of the brand’s emblematic double-stepped bezel.

Strap: White ostrich leather.

Why Buy? It’s a limited-edition women’s watch comprising just fourteen pieces.

Girard-Perregaux

Giuliano Mazzuoli

1966 Blue Hour

Carrara

A distinctive vintage-inspired dress model.

An Italian designer uses Italian material— with Swiss movements.

Material: 41mm pink gold (white Case + Material gold also available.)

Movement: GP01800-0004 GirardPerregaux-manufactured automatic caliber. Power reserve of 54 hours and engraved pink gold rotor.

Dial: Blue with sunray brushed decoration. Slightly spherical crystal and inclined diamond-polished bezel.

Strap: Blue alligator with pink gold pin buckle.

Why Buy? Mesmerizing blue dial with matching strap.

Case + Material: 44.5mm cylindrical case made in Italy of fine Carrara marble.

Movement: ETA 2824/2 in three-hand model. La Joux-Perret LJP 7771 in chronograph.

Dial: Blue or white ceramic gunmetal. The rectangular minute indexes are raised.

Strap: Calfskin leather in Tuscany.

Why Buy? Marble is rarely used as a case material.

93 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Omega

Ulysse Nardin

Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon

Gold Lady Diver

A classic watch gets a case material update.

A glittering and weatherresistant watch for ladies.

Case + Material: 44.25mm white ceramic that has been heated to turn gray.

Brushed ceramic bezel.

Movement: Omega Co-Axial 9300 chronograph with a Si14 silicon balance spring.

Dial: Sand-blasted 950 platinum.

Strap: Grey leather strap with rubber insert with holes on the area where the buckle is fastened. Red stitching on the underside of the strap.

Why Buy? Unusual ceramic treatment for Omega offers an alternative to the earlier Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon.

Case + Material: 40mm rose gold with unidirectional rotating bezel, 100-meter water resistance.

Movement: UN-815 in-house automatic.

Dial: White mother-of-pearl or black, both with diamond markers.

Strap: Rubber strap with deployant clasp.

Why Buy? For those ‘couples’ diving excursions.

DuBois et Fils

F.P. Journe

Flyback Racing Chronograph

Nouvelle Octa Lune

A watch that references the legendary Gulf racing teams and the golden age of auto racing of the 1960s and 1970s.

F.P. Journe presents the Nouvelle Octa Lune: a more visible reading of the time and a date twice as large. The 2 dials of the Nouvelle Octa Lune are in 18 K Gold.

The first dial, off centre, with embossed hour numbers surfaced with a diamond tool has been enlarged for a better reading of the time.

The second dial features a very large date in aperture at 11h, the retrograde power reserve indicator on a scale of 120 efficient hours (5 days) at 9h and the phases of the moon at 8h. The mechanical movement with automatic winding (calibre 1300.3) is manufactured in 18 K rose Gold. It is winded mono directionally by the F.P. Journe 22 K Gold rotor for an unequalled efficiency.

Case + Material: 41.5mm steel with highly polished notched bezel.

Movement: ETA 2892 chronograph with Dubois-Dépraz flyback module.

Dial: Black/blue and orange with guilloché hour circle.

Strap: Dark blue, handcrafted calf leather strap with protective inlays made from rubber and orange stitching.

Why Buy? Independent, crowd-sourced Swiss company SA (www.duboisfils. ch) originally founded in 1785. Limited edition of 33 pieces. Watch arrives in reusable travel case.

MIDO

Ulysse Nardin

Commander Caliber 80 Chronometer

Imperial Blue

Epitomising Mido’s watchmaking expertise since 1959, the Commander collection now welcomes the Caliber 80 Chronometer, a new high-precision model equipped with a state-ofthe-art chronometer movement.

Developed according to the high standards laid down by Mido, this automatic movement now offers double the previous autonomy, with a generous 80-hour power reserve.

It is also certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, the highest watch industry benchmark in terms of precision and reliability.

Thus, every hour, a delightful sparkling melody “Sol” rises from the watch case. However, if desired, an on-off pusher at 11 o’clock on the back of the case ensures that the mechanical masterpiece stays silent. Perhaps this allows more attention to be paid to the minuterepeater, which on the Imperial Blue features a captivating Westminster chime played on four notes. Once activated and released, the repeater slide instantly sets the hammers dancing and the gongs singing.

It is an enchanting symphony, punctuated by the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, as if suspended in time, levitating on its sapphire plate.

Ulysse Nardin

H. Moser & Cie.

Marine Chronometer Manufacture

Fumé Dials

Step out like a lady with the new Marine Chronometer Manufacture for women. A stunning timepiece comprised of feminine features and state-of-the-art technology, it is a force to be reckoned with. Delicate in appearance, with its mother-of-pearl dial, pastel Roman numerals and fluted bezel adorned with diamonds, it is also vigorous in function. Powered by the groundbreaking Ulysse Nardin 118 caliber, known for its DIAMonSIL escapement and silicon balance spring, and bearing all the hallmarks of the finest marine instruments, the ladies’ Marine Chronometer Manufacture offers women a wristwatch that is equal part jewelry, equal part extraordinary.

With the creativity of watchmakers seemingly limitless, and with the emergence of the smart watch, H. Moser & Cie. has returned to its roots and to those of watchmaking, distinguishing itself by unveiling a timepiece of incredible purity. With this resolutely vintage piece, H. Moser & Cie. also demonstrates that a real luxury product is immediately identifiable even without a visible logo or brand identifier, just like a painting that remains unsigned by the artist. A case with alternating polished and satin-finished flanks, a fumé dial with a sunburst pattern, noble materials – an 18 carat white gold and alligator exterior – and a movement featuring traditional finishes: H. Moser & Cie.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 92

news news

It’s always busy outside the main exhibition halls during Baselworld.

See baselworld.com for details about how to attend.

Destination BAseLwORLD watch enthusiasts are making plans this month to attend Baselworld, the annual swiss watch and jewelry show at which most of the watch industry debuts its latest timepieces. The show, which is open to the public, takes place this year from March 19 through March 26. The event is a global gathering of watch fans that draws more than 120,000 visitors each year, including, of course, the team from International watch. iw readers can attend on any of the show days, and visitors do not need to register beforehand. Tickets are available on the spot, or you can save time by buying them online in advance. A ticket for the day is 60 swiss francs (about $68) or

150 swiss francs (about $175) for the whole duration of the show. For details about attending, see baselworld.com.

The main exhibition hall, which underwent a major redesign two years ago, includes 141,000 square meters of total exhibition area and houses more than 1,500 exhibitors from forty countries showcasing their new collections.

Look online at iwmagazine.com for live reports and check out our first review of 2015 Baselworld debuts inside this issue starting on page 61. see upcoming issues for indepth stories about all the 2015 timepiece trends and technical advances.

F. P. Journe & AHCI to Award new watchmaking Talent At this year’s Baselworld, the AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants) and member/watchmaker F.P. Journe will announce and display works by the winners of the Young Talent Competition.

During the past four months thirty-three AHCI watchmakers from eleven countries have been assessing creations submitted by young watchmakers from around the world since Journe and the Academy announced the competition in november.

According to the AHCI, the aim of the competition is to “help raise the next generation of young independent watchmakers by identifying the most talented creations and publicly recognizing their achievements.”

The winners will be presented at Baselworld 2015 starting March 19 in conjunction with the AHCI.

Jaeger-LeCoultre opens first new York boutique Jaeger-LeCoultre in December opened its first new York flagship boutique, located at 701 Madison Avenue near 63rd street. The 700-square-foot store features a fully customized interior. Visitors will see a rotunda-shaped showcase upon entry that presents the brand’s horological highlights such as the Reverso, the Rendez-Vous, the Master, the Geophysic, the Duomètre, and the Deep sea. within wall cases are found grand complications and high jewelry pieces, epitomizing the various artistic crafts exercised in the Manufacture - gemsetting, enameling, engraving, and mastery of horological complications. nearby is a wall of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos clocks, which are adjacent to an entire clear wall of watch movements, echoing a much larger wall of movements found at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s headquarters in Le sentier, switzerland.

The boutique joins Jaeger-LeCoultre’s other locations in the United states in Beverly Hills, Boca Raton, Las Vegas, Costa Mesa, Palm Beach, Aventura and the Miami Design District.

95 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Calce new CeO of sowind Group Kering in January named former Corum CeO Antonio Calce (left) as chief executive officer of the sowind Group, which includes the watch brands Girard-Perregaux and JeanRichard. He reports to Albert Bensoussan, CeO of Kering’s luxury watches and jewelry division. The Italian-born Calce started his career at Piaget in 1994 as head of its technical department before moving to product management responsibilities. In 2001 he was appointed director of operations and product development for Panerai.

In 2005, Calce joined Montres Corum. He holds degrees in microtechnology and management studies. Kering (previously PPR) also owns Ulysse nardin and Gucci, among many other luxury, fashion and sport brands.

Geneva Motorshow 2015 - the great TAG Heuer motor racing saga and Ayrton senna is back It would not be an easy task to select just one photo from the TAG Heuer motor racing album. Unless we are looking for the most moving image: that would be an intense Ayrton senna, fingers in his ears, focussed on his race. He was chosen to feature in the first #DontCrackUnderPressure campaign, but is not in the most recent.

However, he is returning. TAG Heuer is proud to be able to appoint him as a mentor in its Pantheon of Ambassadors. On this occasion, the swiss watchmaker presents 2 new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph calibre 1887.

This year, TAG Heuer will be creating an incredible stand at the Geneva Motor show to mark 30 years of partnership with McLaren, and to allow aficionados to discover all the links the brand boasts with the motor racing world. On this stand, which will cover almost 1000 m2, the swiss brand will be showcasing Formula 1 and Rally, endurance and Formula e, and legendary races such as the Carrera Panamericana and classic car rallies such as Goodwood. A number of show cars will be on display to delight visitors, under the gaze of all of the Brand’s leading ambassadors.

2015 marks 30 years of partnership with McLaren, the longest collaboration between

a watch brand and a Formula 1 team: the partnership is packed with legendary names, not least that of Ayrton senna. It is a consolidation of shared values: performance, precision, prestige and innovation. This season, the drivers for this legendary stable are Fernando Alonso and Jenson Button.

All elements are in place, and to celebrate this anniversary in fitting fashion, a limited edition red and black TAG Heuer Formula 1 will be on display exclusively at the show. each discipline and each family of drivers has its own characteristics, habits and specific requirements, but all are unanimously in support of the new editions of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph calibre 1887.

Piaget Polo Team wins Grand Prize Aspen, Colorado, provided a backdrop for the UsPA Piaget world snow Polo Championship, where Team Piaget captured the grand prize after three days of intense competition. Top ranked polo players nic Roldan and Piaget’s U.s. polo ambassadors joined Aspen Valley Polo Club founders Marc and Melissa Ganzi and Piaget north American president Larry Boland (left) to host the tournament. Piaget was also the official timekeeper of the championship. On display at the event were the newest Piaget Polo FortyFive timepieces along with photos showcasing Piaget’s long history with the sport of kings. Following the match, Boland presented the trophy, a silver cup accented with deer antlers, to the winning Piaget team. nic Roldan was awarded MVP and Marc Ganzi’s horse, coincidently named “Piaget,” was recognized with as Best Polo Pony for the tournament.

Piaget has a long history with polo, dating back to the 1970s when Mr. Yves Piaget became a major advocate of the sport.

watch enthusiasts Can now Be Certified The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) in January announced the first-ever international certification of watchmaking knowledge that, while intended primarily for watch industry sales and retail staff, is also open to those with an interest in fine watchmaking or considering a career in the industry.

The online test was devised and developed in switzerland by the FHH. Test takers will sit for a proctored two-hour session during which candidates must answer 160 questions on four subjects: watchmaking techniques; market players; materials; culture; and history.

Based on their final score, three levels of certification – Advisor in Fine watchmaking, specialist in Fine watchmaking and expert in Fine watchmaking – will be awarded to successful candidates.

Preparation for the exam is now available online and the test will be conducted at an official exam center starting in April in the United states, followed by switzerland and other countries. In addition to the online platform (www.hhcertification.org), future test takers may prepare by consulting the FHH website (www.hautehorlogerie.org) to download the application watch@Tablet (available from the App store) and access the recommended reading list, specialized websites, brand books and reference works on watchmaking. The enrollment fee is $385.

A. Lange & söhne adds second Florida boutique A. Lange & söhne opened a new boutique in January in Miami’s Design District, the city’s creative shopping destination dedicated to high-end fashion, design and art.

The new location is the third in the United states for the German brand, with others in Palm Beach and new York. All told, the German-based company operates fourteen boutiques worldwide.

In a space of about 800 square feet, the new boutique will showcase a wide selection of its handcrafted timepieces. The arrival of the second A. Lange & söhne Boutique in Florida underlines the importance of the region and its fan base. “The new site is an important cornerstone of our distribution strategy, which will help us to strengthen our presence in the U.s. market,” noted Gaetan Guillosson, president of A. Lange & söhne north America.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 94

news news

new sTORes In TOwn

The House of Harry winston opens a new retail salon in Dubai The House of Harry winston, the legendary “King of Diamonds,” and international luxury brand announced the opening of a new retail salon in Dubai. Located on the ground floor of the Dubai Mall, one of the world’s largest and most renowned shopping and entertainment destinations, the 148 square-meter salon will showcase Harry winston’s exquisite fine jewelry and timepiece collections.

Designed to capture the elegance and intimacy of a private estate, the new salon reflects a contemporary variation on the traditional winston style, drawing references from the eloquence and architecture of the brand’s iconic Fifth Avenue Flagship. A color palette of soft taupe and pale grey, serves as the perfect complement to the custom designed lacquer and antique bronze furniture, with pristine marble floors, bespoke chandeliers, and antique accents.

The interior layout features dedicated galleries for high jewelry, bridal, collections and timepieces, created to highlight the breadth of Harry winston’s exceptional offering, while ensuring clients the highly personalized shopping experience that the House is known for. Private selling rooms provide the ideal environment for a discreet and truly luxurious shopping experience.

Founded in new York City, in 1932, The House of Harry winston continues to set the standard for the ultimate in fine jewelry and high-end watch making. From the acquisition of some of the world’s most famous gemstones, including the Jonker, Hope and winston Legacy Diamonds, to adorning Hollywood’s leading ladies on the red carpet, for over eight decades, Harry winston has been a symbol of the best there is. Headquartered in new York, the company operates retail salons worldwide, in locations including: new York, Beverly Hills, London, Paris, Genève, Tokyo, Hong Kong and shanghai.

Cerulean Cobalt Chandelier installation at Chaumet boutique in the Dubai Mall The French maison, Chaumet, showed its creativity in its flagship store at the Dubai Mall, through its original and unique façade designed by Jean-Michel wilmotte, a French architect, inspired by Kinetic art, defined as “art that contains movement”.

Totally Chaumet blue when seen from the side while walking, the façade becomes 60% transparent when facing it. It is behind this very unique façade that Chaumet decided to install the creation of the artist Dale Chihuly, titled “Cerulean Cobalt Chandelier”, whist the blue color of this unique chandelier responds to Chaumet blue color. This is the first installation of an artistic creation in a Chaumet boutique worldwide. Dale Chihuly, born in 1941, is an internationally acclaimed American artist, working in the medium of glass.

97 GRAND EDITION 2015 INTERNATIONAL WATCH

Chopard Boutique at the famous Burj Al Arab re-opens its doors with a new design concept The Chopard Burj Al Arab Boutique, re-opened its doors in December 2014 with the brand’s new Boutique design concept by renowned architect Thierry w. Despont. The House of Chopard launched the decoration concept for its boutiques by opening a flagship store on Madison Avenue in 2007. Designed by the famous French architect Thierry w. Despont, it has since been applied to all new openings and will in due course be present in all the brand’s boutiques.

Light-toned wood (white oak), opulent leathers, silk and precious velvet, along with a fireplace: Thierry Despont has chosen to maintain the plush, comfortable charm of the former boutiques, while modernising it to create the feeling of visiting a beautiful private home with well-defined areas accommodating high jewellery creations, watches and accessories. He has done so while focusing on a sense of intimacy conducive to enabling customers to stroll around the stores in a relaxing manner. each detail of these points of sale has been thought through in conjunction with Caroline scheufele, co-President of Chopard and Artistic Director, who said: “with these new environments, we want to encourage our clients to discover the multiple facets of the Chopard universe.”

This outstanding boutique is located in the famous Burj Al Arab, Dubai’s flagship hotel and offers Chopard’s prestigious clientele a stunning universe.

The first Chopard boutique was opened in Hong Kong in 1983. By 1998, there were just 15 points of sale worldwide. since then, brand development has steadily accelerated. Chopard is currently represented in 130 countries through 1,600 points of sale and 147 dedicated boutiques, located in the world’s major capitals and in the finest shopping centres.

Madhursinh Jesrani, General Manager, Khimji’s watches comments: “The Khimji’s watches showroom has everything that luxury stands for: a huge range of highend brands, a classy ambience with fascinating interior displays, a touch of exclusivity and extravagance. And above all, it has behind it the heritage of Khimji family that for centuries has served the sultanate and its people.

The brands that we showcase also have a long history that testifies to a passion for perfection and opulence.

One can say our state-of-art showroom is designed with the intent to honor the inspiring legacy of the brands that we sell and the passion for luxury that we cherish”. The Khimji’s watches team has been specially trained by swiss expert Jean-Francois Chevre from the Chevrier watch Academy, in brand management and marketing of luxury goods. The training adds to the personnel imbibe skills that will allow the customer to enjoy an experience at the showroom where fine quality customer service perception comes second to none.

In Khimji’s watches, Oman has a truly Fine Luxury address High-end, elegant, spacious and a class apart. Host to the world’s finest timepieces, jewellery and accessories, the Khimji’s watches showroom is located in the upscale region of shatti Al Qurum. It presents some of the most exclusive fine watchmaking brands such as Rolex, Chopard, Cartier, Piaget, Girard Perragaux, Oris, Bell & Ross, Caran d’Ache, Mikimoto and Frederique Constant together under one roof. Recently it also added Kieninger – Masterpieces of German clock craft since 1912 – to its portfolio of world class brands.

Khimji’s watches features a shop-in-shop concept that showcases each brand in an exclusive and unique environment, especially designed for the customer’s comfort and as per the individual brand’s requirements. Great attention has been paid to detail and décor befitting an international luxury watch and accessories boutique ensuring that the connoisseur in you has an enriching experience that meets the highest expectations.

Rolex names Top sailors Terry Hutchinson of Annapolis, Maryland, and stephanie Roble (above) of east Troy, wisconsin, were named Us sailing’s 2014 Rolex Yachtsman and Yachtswoman of the Year. A total of ten men and seven women had been shortlisted for the 2014 honors based on nominations submitted by members of Us sailing, with these two sailors then selected for the distinction by a panel of sailing journalists. established in 1961 by Us sailing and sponsored since 1980 by Rolex watch, U.s.A., the annual presentation of Us sailing’s Rolex Yachtsman and Yachtswoman of the Year awards are considered the sport’s ultimate recognition of an individual’s outstanding on-the-water achievements for the calendar year.

The winners were honored last month in new York and each received a specially engraved Rolex timepiece.

Pierce Brosnan is speake-Marin’s new Ambassador

Hublot wins Poker Circuit Hublot has signed with the world Poker Tour in Las Vegas to become Official Timekeeper and Official watch of the international poker circuit. To mark the announcement, Hublot developed a limited edition Big Bang Unico world Poker Tour with a design that includes a bezel made of King Gold or steel that features an interplay of two different treatments, polishing and micro-blasting, which in particular showcase a heart, spade, club and diamond. Ricardo Guadalupe, CeO of Hublot, chose to announce the partnership at the wPT Five Diamond world Poker Classic, wPT Alpha Las Vegas, in December. Many of the greatest professional and amateur players on the poker circuit attended the event.

Actor and former James Bond Pierce Brosnan is now, and for the next three years, the official ambassador of the speake-Marin brand. Peter speakeMarin last year met the actor on the set of one of his latest films, “survivor,” slated for a late 2015 release) in which Brosnan plays a watchmaker. During their meeting the pair became friends.

“I met Peter on the set of a film in which he was a consultant for a character who was a watchmaker, explains Brosnan. “we spoke briefly; we both love what we do, and myself as a lover of watches I appreciated his genuine passion and subsequent designs. I acquired one of his timepieces and a dialogue ensued. when Peter asked me to be an ambassador for his work it was a simple answer.”

A wOsTeP-trained watchmaker, speake-Marin began his career restoring vintage timepieces in London and later joined Audemars Piguet Renaud et Papi (APRP) prior to starting his own eponymous independent brand in 2000.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 96

Just a sec.. !

100 Glares of Respect Fine watchmaking is an industry born out of a centuries-old and still very much live history, a precise and vastly rich culture, a highly professional ethic, the captivating expertise of the artisan with passion. Fine watchmaking is an elevated heritage and culture of knowledge and know-how. The Fine watchmaking industry carries long traditions with steady vision to the future. A future that holds values through research and development, innovating and educating the skills of tomorrow.

Recently I have been asked “What is the difference between the Swiss watch industry and other luxury goods? What is the big deal about it?” Though I have been intrigued by such question, instead of presenting hundred of pages to explain the answer to that question, I preferred to list the below historic achievements, which turned out to come up with the perfect answer: in the year 1364 Giovanni de Dondi of Padua built his Astrarium, an astronomical clock considered to be the wonder of its age. Around 1410 the mainspring development combined with the fusee made possible for the innovation of the truly portable domestic clock and, as components grew smaller, paved the way for the production of watches. In 1554 Thomas Bayard became the first watchmaker in Geneva, followed notably by Martin Duboule at the end of the sixteenth century. 1601 was the date of the Foundation of the Genevan Corporation of Watchmakers. In 1632 Jean Toutin invented the technique of painting on enamel for cases and dials. In 1656 continuing the early work by Galileo, Christian Huygens adapted the pendulum to the clock and in doing so considerably increased its accuracy. In 1657 Robert Hooke invented the anchor escapement.

In 1675 Christian Huygens invented the spiral balance spring for watches, thereby significantly improving their accuracy. In 1675 watchmakers Edward Barlow (Booth), Daniel Quare and Thomas Tompion developed systems for a quarter-repeater watch.

In 1675 the Foundation of the Royal Observatory in Greenwich was born. In 1695 the half-quarter repeater watch appeared in England. In 1704 the first watch with jewels was produced by watchmaker de Beaufré using a drilling method invented circa 1700 by the Genevan astronomer and optician Nicolas Fatio de Duillier. In 1710 Samuel Watson invented the five-minute repeater. In 1720 George Graham built a device with pendulum and weights, and a hand that indicated the quartersecond and which could, theoretically, also divide the second into sixteenths. In 1727 Birth of Ferdinand Berthoud who became known as one of the most outstanding manufacturers of marine timekeepers of his era. In 1741 Le Locle was home to 41 watchmakers, 14 goldsmiths-casemakers, 5 enamellers, 6 spring-makers, 1 chainsmith, 9 engravers and 600 lace workers.

In 1747 birth of the Swiss watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet in Neuchâtel. His inventions included the gong spring (1783), the Breguet dial (1786), the pare-chute shock-absorber (1790), the single hand watch (1796), the constant force escapement (1798), the tourbillon (1801), the flat balance-spring with one or two terminal coils, known as the Breguet overcoil, and a compensation device for watches. In 1750 the first rose engines for guillochage or engine-turning were made. In 1755 watchmaker Caron created a ring-watch that was wound by rotating the bezel and set using a key. In 1757 watchmaker Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement which, together with the detent escapement, is the most important of the so-called “free” escapements. They constitute the third category of escapement after “recoil” and “dead-beat”. Mudge also devised mechanisms for the equation of time, perpetual calendar, minute-repeater, etc. In 1775 the invention of a simplified flat calibre with bridges, named the Lépine calibre after its inventor, Jean-Antoine Lépine. Its principle is still used in mechanical watches. In 1776 Jean-Moïse Pouzait invented the watch with independent seconds, precursor of the chronograph. In 1784 Thomas Earnshaw introduced a new spring detent escapement for pocket chronometers and marine chronometers. His invention was widely used by subsequent watchmakers.

In 1790 Jacquet-Droz and Leschot manufactured a watch attached to a strap which they recorded in their accounts book. In 1822 a patent was granted for a “timepiece or measurer of distance covered”, named a “seconds chronograph” by its inventor Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec. In 1827 Breguet’s workshops produced the “Marie-Antoinette watch” which featured all the complications possible at that time.

In 1828 a patent was granted to Louis-Frédéric Perrelet and his son for a “physics and astronomy counter” with split-seconds. In 1830 Abraham Louis Breguet’s keyless winding mechanism was invented. In 1831 Joseph Thaddeus Winnerl’s splitseconds chronograph was invented. In 1839 Antoni Patek started making pocket watches, to later be joined by Adrien Philippe to found Patek Philippe & Co. In 1842 Adrien Philippe invented the keyless winding mechanism. In 1844 Adolphe Nicole filed a patent for a system that returned the chronograph hand to zero. In 1858 Henri Grandjean founded the Observatoire de Neuchâtel whose role was to transmit the exact time by telegraph. In 1860 the Observatoire de Neuchâtel issued the first rating certificates for watches. In 1862 the first chronograph with a reset function (HenriFeréol Piguet of Nicole et Capt in Solliat) was invented.

In 1865 Georges Favre-Jacot founds Zenith Watch Manufacture in LeLocle at the age of 22. In 1875 Nemitz discovered calcium sulphate as the first luminescent substance for numerals and hands. In 1877 invention of the palladium balance-spring by Geneva’s Charles-Auguste Paillard. In 1878 foundation in Biel of the first Swiss institution to officially control watch rates, acknowledged as the official watch observation bureau in 1893 and now the Bureau officiel des chronomètres (BO). In 1880 creation of the first water-resistant (screwed) case by the Genevan François Borgel. In 1886 creation of the Poinçon de Genève. In 1889 the first known patent for a wristwatch was filed in Bern. In 1890 invention of a transfer press for applying numerals and names to dials, by the dialmaker A. Beyeler in Geneva. In 1892 invention of synthetic jewels by Auguste Verneuil in France. In 1897 Charles-Edouard Guillaume developed the integral balance that bears his name. In 1900 Leroy made the most complicated pocket watch of its era. In 1909 patents for wrist-chronographs were filed in Berne. In 1914 creation

by Eterna of the first series-production wristwatch with alarm. In 1916 Heuer filed a patent for the “Micrograph” to 1/100th of a second, and the “Semi-micrograph” to 1/50th of a second. In 1919 based on research by Charles-Edouard Guillaume and in

collaboration with the Imphy steelworks, the compensating balance-spring was made using a nickel-steel alloy. In 1924.

John Harwood filed the first Swiss patent for a self-winding wristwatch with a central oscillating weight.

In 1925 the first known wristwatch with a perpetual calendar was manufactured using a pendant watch movement (Patek Philippe). In 1926 series of production began of self-winding wristwatches with an oscillating weight, based on Harwood’s patent (Selza, Fortis and Blancpain using blanks by A. Schild S.A.). In 1926 Rolex created the Oyster wristwatch with water-resistant case and crown. In 1927 Patek Philippe produced what was then the world’s most complicated watch, known as the Packard after the automobile magnate James Packard who commissioned it. In 1929 LeCoultre revealed the world’s smallest movement, the 101 calibre. In 1929 Eterna launched the first eight-day alarm wristwatch. In 1930 the first known tourbillon wristwatch was produced. In 1931 Emile Borer made the first selfwinding wristwatch whose unidirectional rotor swung in a complete circle: the Rolex Perpetual. In 1931 Louis Cottier made a watch showing universal time (with 29 world cities). In 1933 patents were filed for a chronograph with two push-buttons (Breitling).

The company Porte-Echappement Universel (Fritz Marti) invented the « Incabloc » shock absorption system that could be adapted to any calibre. Introduction of the « Nivarox » compensating balance-spring and the « Nivaflex » mainspring. In 1933 the speaking clock came into service at the Paris Observatory, invented in the 1880s. In 1937 Dubois-Depraz devised a system for chronographs that did away with the column wheel. In 1942 the “bidynator”, a bidirectional rotor, was developed

by A. Michel-Felsa in Granges. In 1948 the first self-winding watch with a rotor on ball bearings (Eterna-matic) was produced. In 1952 the first electric watches with contacts were made, a joint collaboration between engineers at Elgin and Lip. In 1955 Vacheron Constantin created the Extraplate. In 1955 the first self-winding watch with alarm, the Memovox by Jaeger LeCoultre was produced. In 1961 an aquatic version of the Cricket was made which was initially created by Vulcain in 1947. In 1963 Favre-Leuba created the Bivouac altimeter/barometer watch. In 1967 in Paris, the 13th Conference on Weights and Measures defined the second as the duration of 9,192,631,770 periods of the radiation corresponding to the transition between the two hyperfine levels of the ground state of the caesium-133 atom. This replaced the astronomical definition where a second equalled 1/86,400th of the average solar day. In 1969 the Omega Speedmaster was worn by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin during the mission Apollo XI, that allowed human beings to walk on the Moon. In 1969 simultaneous launch of the first self-winding wrist chronographs

by Heuer, Breitling, Bürer and El Primero by Zenith. In 1978 quartz watches overtook mechanical watches in popularity, plunging the Swiss watch industry into crisis. In 1979 launch of the Delirium, the world’s thinnest watch (1.98mm). In 1980 Corum launched the Golden Bridge, a miniature baguette movement whose prototype, three years earlier, had won Vincent Calabrese a gold medal at the Geneva Inventions Fair.

In 1982 the first Swatch watches were launched in the United States and in Europe a year later. In 1983 official launch in Switzerland of the Swatch watch, in Zürich.

The Swatch invention by Nicolas G. Hayek next to other watchmaking projects of his, saved the Swiss watch industry. In 1983 as recommended by Nicolas G. Hayek, the merger between SSIH and ASUAG, a holding company that controlled manufacturers of movements, assortments and electronic components for the entire Swiss watch industry, gave a new bill of health to all brands concerned and gave rise to what would become the Swatch Group. An act of true master class. In 1985 the creation, by Lucerne-born Ludwig Oechslin for Ulysse Nardin, of the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei astronomical watch, followed by the Planetarium Copernicus (1989) and the Tellurium (1992). In 1985 foundation of the Académie des Horlogers Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), a group of independent master watchmakers, a significant force behind innovation and creation in mechanical watchmaking. In 1986 creation of the first series-production self-winding tourbillon wristwatch by Maurice Grimm and André Beyner for Audemars Piguet. In 1989 Patek Philippe made the most complicated pocket watch of its time to commemorate its 150th anniversary. In 1996 Philippe Dufour invented the Duality, a wristwatch with a double regulator. In 1999 Jean Kazes made the world’s tallest clock (30 metres) for a hotel in Geneva. In 1999 Omega launched the coaxial escapement, developed some 20 years previously by George Daniels. In 2000 first results of research into silicon as a material for wristwatch escapements. In 2000 François-Paul Journe unveiled the first resonance watch. In 2001 Ulysse Nardin produced Dual Direct Escapement in The Freak watch. In 2004 inventions of a flurry of “multiple” tourbillons, with the GyroTourbillon by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tourbillon Révolution by Franck Muller, DoubleTourbillon 30° by Greubel-Forsey and Thomas Prescher’s triple tourbillon. In 2013 Antoine Martin’s Martin Braun introduced the Slow Runner 1 Hertz with the largest balance wheel. In 2014 Patek Philippe made the most complicated watch ever made by the Manufacture to date, to commemorate its 175th anniversary.

Our ultimate duty, in fact I may even call it obligation, is to ensure such a gigantic history full of incredible achievements remains at the prime of our memory, by promoting and educating fine watchmaking with the highest levels of respect and determination today, for a better and a more productive tomorrow. Just remember, what your tomorrow holds for you is not only based on your present, but also on your appreciative manners of your past.

Keep reading and watching,

Vasken Chokarian

Info: iW archives

INTERNATIONAL WATCH GRAND EDITION 2015 98

Breguet, the innovator.

High frequency and high precision

A concentrated blend of horological innovations, the Classique ChronomĂŠtrie 7727 with its balance fitted on magnetic pivots and operating at a frequency of 10 Hz achieves an average rate of -1 to +3 seconds per day. Notably thanks to complete mastery of silicon properties and magnetism, this new milestone in the field of high-precision mechanical watchmaking embodies the spirit of innovation of Abraham-Louis Breguet. History is still being written...

M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N A V A I L A B L E AT B R E G U E T M I D D L E - E A S T E M I R AT E S T O W E R S D U B A I U A E + 9 71 4 3 3 0 0 4 5 5 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M