Quarterly Update ISSUE: IN THIS CEO comment
Spring 2016
Daniel Kohavi From Israel Takes Gold At REMIX 16, Milan
Updates from the regions Reports from 2016 Fur Fairs Interview with Mette Nielsen New CEO of Kopenhagen fur Fur on the AW16 catwalks Meet our newest members Welfare Update Traceability
REMIX 2016 in collaboration with Vogue Talents was held on March 3rd at Teatro Vetra, Milan where Daniel Kohavi from Israel took home the Gold award. Daniel wowed the jury with three looks that blended angelic wings with distressed fur to create a ‘fallen from heaven’ look. Her collection was inspired by installations created by the artist Claire Morgan. Daniel recently completed an internship at Lee Grebenau and is currently studying at her country’s famous university Shenkar College. Other winners included Ali Koc of Turkey, who was awarded the Silver Prize; UK entrant Edda Gimnes who won the Bronze prize and Louisa Reinholdt won the first people’s choice award. For the first time, the event was a fashion presentation with a greenhouse concept, which signified the growth and rarity within its environment. In the same way, we cultivate International talent and aim for the REMIX contestants to grow to their full potential.
CEO Comments I would first like to congratulate Mette Lykke Nielsen on becoming the new CEO of Fur Europe and Dale Theisen being announced as American Legend’s President and CEO respectively. As well as these two appointments, just recently we have seen Jesper Uggerhøj take over the CEO role at Kopenhagen Fur, replacing Torben Nielsen who is retiring. The IFF would like to wish them all the best. As markets in China and Russia slow down, one of my responsibilities is to try and find new developing and emerging markets where we can sell fur. At the recent IFF board, we discussed establishing some trade missions into India and Iran and I am hopeful that in the next few months we can make progress in these countries and see if we can open up some selling opportunities. It is also important to try and reach out to retailers, boutiques and department stores that are currently not selling fur. That is why our Business of Fur site is so important to try and make people understand the business advantages of selling fur. I hope these initiatives in the year ahead will help us expand into new markets whilst of course in China and Russia, we see an upturn in the months ahead.
Update from Fur Europe
Fur Takes Centre Stage Across RTW AW 16/17
The board of Fur Europe has adopted a new European strategy that focuses more on political challenges at a national level. "We will remain close to the political life in the EU, but our name and reputation in Brussels is well established by now and we do not foresee big issues the next few years. Thus, it is relevant to turn some of Fur Europe's efforts toward countries in need.” Mette Nielsen Fur Europe's 'Network of Retailers' workshop took place from 9th to 11th February in Amsterdam. Three days of active member interaction and fruitful discussions resulted in new insight to Fur Europe about the challenges for fur retailers and plenty of follow up actions. European flagship project WelFur moves forward. Upon the completion of panEuropean testing and calibration of the science based animal welfare system, the implementation plan is now underway and will be ready by the end of 2016. Update from the Americas region A success story has unfolded in the U.S, after a senator tried to ban trapping on all U.S. National Wildlife Refuges, resulting in a trapping ban on 116 million acres in 45 states. A strong lobbying effort by FINA was successful in having the bill withdrawn. Additionally, FINA created strategic alliances with 33 sportsman associations, which helped in the advocacy effort in having the bill withdrawn. The Fur Institute of Canada has been diligently working on its state-of-the-art trap-testing centre and in March, hosted a Russian delegation to its facility in Alberta. The idea was to share and exchange information on wolf trapping. This research and work by the FIC assists Canada to remain in compliance with the Agreement on International Humane Trapping Standards. In South America, the work with fashion editors and students at design centres remains a cornerstone of the Americas programs. Work is on-going in Brazil to prevent new fur bans on fur farming from being enacted.
Fur has made its mark across all four leading AW16 fashion weeks, with an estimated 70% of collections featuring the natural material overall. Considering that fur was also hugely prominent during the menswear AW16 collections earlier in the year, it is clear that both designers and consumers are enjoying using and wearing natural materials in greater numbers. From the eye-catching coats of Michael Kors, to the subtle craftsmanship from Carolina Herrera, New York Fashion Week saw 91 of 156 designers (58%) craft beautiful collections with fur. With less fur present from shows in London, compared to Paris, Milan and New York, it’s love of the natural material is on the rise, with an estimated 37 of the 79 designers (47%) incorporating fur and shearling into their collections, contradicting figures that were pushed out by animal rights bodies. This is an increase on last year’s London collections that saw 20% designers use fur in the AW 15 collections, according to a TNS poll. The biggest impact that fur presented it upon was during Milan fashion week with 55 of the 65 (85%) designers crafting beautiful garments with the materials. Many designers used fur across the majority of their collections, with Fendi, Gucci and Prada all creating cuffs, coats and accessories with the material across a high number of their pieces. Fur played a key role in the Paris shows with just over half of the French designer’s collections (55%) using the material. The likes of Chloe’, Lanvin and Rochas all went with an oversized trend that saw pelts crafted into long-flowing puffed coats to give a tough city look ready for any weather condition.
Interview with Mette Nielsen- CEO of Fur Europe
What excites you about the fur industry? The most inspiring about the sector is the persons working in the sector. Farmers committed to discuss animal welfare, and the willingness to implement our science-based animal welfare programme WelFur. Manufactures, designers and retailers who work to find new ways of using the material and develop new innovative ideas to attract customers. I find the people behind the fur most inspiring, and I have learned a lot from you and your pride in what you do. This is the best argument to defend the sector.
How did you first come into the fur trade? I started working for EFBA/IFF in 2012, when I was offered the position as Head of Public Affairs. I did not work in the sector before but I did know the sector from the outside. I grew up in the countryside in Denmark. Fur farms were in my neighbourhood. When I grew up, I just thought of fur farms as a part of the farming community and not something special. My father’s cousin was a hunter and I remember going hunting with him when I was very young.
What are Fur Europe’s current projects? Fur Europe’s strategy for 2016 will focus on the discussions and debates in the countries. We have seen that the animal lobby groups are shifting away from EU discussions and instead put their efforts in the countries. Focus on helping our members with strengthening their political network and being proactive in the public debate. We will face some tough discussions in 2016, and we need to make sure we are prepared for them. Further to that, we need to make sure that we build alliances with other animal sectors, so that they are willing to stand up for us and defend our sector.
What attracted you to the role of CEO? Ever since I joined the fur sector, I found it both fascinating and appealing. Working in an environment has always motivated me where you are able to change and develop. I have been active in politics and I enjoy a good discussion. Nothing beats being able to convince people to change their opinion because you have presented the best possible argumentation. When the opportunity came around, I was not in doubt that this would be the right choice for me.
Please tell us a little about your background Before joining the fur sector in 2012, I was working for the Danish European Movement informing Danish citizens, companies and students about EU policies. Before that, I worked for a Danish socialliberal MEP and as an EU adviser for the social-liberals in the Danish Parliament. Further, I have been active in politics for several years, and from 2010-2012 I was elected vice-president of the European Young Liberals, where I travelled all over Europe and participated in political meetings and gatherings.
Update from the Eurasia region The International Leather Fur Fair took place from 3rd to 5th November. During these dates, the fair had a workshop on the use of modern technologies in the field of design and tailoring of fur garments. Over 100 students attended the class from specialised universities and members of the IFF-Eurasia Fur Futures. During the class, guests spoke about the specifics of their work and personal experiences in the design and construction of fur garments. The Russian Fur Union and Retail Companies Association of the Russian Federation have adopted a joint Declaration of conscientious operators of the Russian Federation fur market concerning the conduct of business in production, imports and sale of natural fur clothes. The purpose of this document is that all market operators should pay taxes and custom payments imposed by law and that the foreign and Russian companies import, produce and sell fur goods conscientiously and that an intolerant attitude should be adopted to those market operators who get the competitive edge by evading the payment of customs, duties and taxes. Update from the Asia Region The China International Fur Fair took place in Beijing, which presented a "Nature Story" Fur Gala as well as the China National Fur Design Competition. The IFF Asia region also supported the Japan Fur Federation's very successful PR event at the Yokohama Plaza promoting fur to the public. This was done through a general look at the history of fur, trying samples and a JFA Fur Design competition showcase with a DIY fur accessory workshop. Both our new members in Taiwan and Malaysia joined us at the Hong Kong International Fur Fair.
Kopenhagen Fur Announce New CEO
Standards and Welfare Updates
Kopenhagen Fur has announced Jesper Uggerhøj as the new CEO, taking over from Torben Nielsen who is retiring. After 24 years as CEO of Kopenhagen Fur, Nielsen has decided to call time on his role where Uggerhøj will take over from 1st April 2016.
On the 10th of March, the Sustainable Use and Ecosystems Management group of IFF met in Washington DC to discuss the challenges and opportunities in the world of wild fur. This meeting brought together the main interested parties in wild life issues (including wild fur) from across the IFF membership for the first time since the AGM in Frankfurt in 2015.
Uggerhøj has extensive experience in management with a focus on sales, retail, as well as concepts and business development in Denmark and abroad. Chairman of Kopenhagen Fur’s board of directors Tage Pedersen said, “We are very pleased to announce that Jesper Uggerhøj takes over the reins of leadership of Kopenhagen Fur. We are a company with a very large span. Jesper has extensive experience in international sales and he has also previously been working in a farmer-owned cooperative. We look forward to the collaboration.” The company has - in close cooperation with the Danish fur farmers - created impressive results on the international markets in recent years and enjoys global leadership. I look forward to continuing to develop this position in close cooperation with the fur farmers and the many talented employees of Kopenhagen Fur.”
One positive announcement made was that the IFF will be continuing its very fruitful relationship with the IUCN, thus making sure that the objective and up to date science are the greatest influences on animals that are regarded as “endangered” by CITES. CITES is an international and legally binding agreement that controls the trade in wildlife products. A shocking statistic learned during the meeting was that in the US alone, there are more than seventy pieces of trapping/ regulatory action that the sector is fighting. Another development is that antianimal use groups are en-masse attempting to increase restrictions on the trade in animal products, primarily by petitioning to uplift certain species of furbearers as endangered. These petitions flood governmental systems beyond capacity, leading to delayed official responses, which allow the anti-animal use groups to then sue the Government. These lawsuits result in unfavorable settlements and also allow the petitioning groups to recoup their legal fees. This is a very efficient way for anti-animal use groups of paralysing the authorities, threatening our sector and raising money all at once. In Canada, hunting and trapping have been found to have more regular involvement from the public than hockey and golf combined and the fur industry there is currently attempting to increase visibility and knowledge with the new wave of national parliamentarians brought in in the most recent election. The Canadian government has also pledged to better support the Inuit and Newfoundland seal hunts financially. The group also discussed work to be undertaken in the upcoming year and the headwinds facing the whole wild fur sector. For more information or to send us news contact: info@iftf.com or www.WEAREFUR.com
IFF Introduce Taiwan as a New Member The International Fur Federation is happy to announce the Taiwan Textile Federation (TFF) as one of its newest member. The TFF was first established in 1975 and covers a number of components such as market development, organisation of trade shows, textile product design and development and many more. With its steady efforts to improve service quality, TTF also obtained ISO 9001 certification in quality management systems from the British Standards Institute (BSI), to ensure it provides Taiwan’s textile businesses the best services.
Seals IFF is working with many of its partners to once and for all extract the promised support from the European Commission for a reeducation and informational campaign to let the markets know that Inuit seal-products are perfectly legal. There is work being done on this by pan-Inuit NGO Inuit Sila (InuitSila.org) and we are all hopeful that the Commission will stand behind their pledge to undo the damage they have wrought upon the Inuit communities and their way of life.
New Welfare Leaflet IFF will soon be producing a new information leaflet for designers and manufacturers on welfare and standards. There are several aims for this leaflet, the first being to increase education in the sector about the standards and good practices around the world. Another key aim is to make those who may not currently be using fur but may be considering adding fur to their collection more confortable with using it and more savvy and knowledgeable when talking about it.