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Fur at the forefront of the global Sustainability challe nge
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Contents
CEO COMMENT SUSTAINABILIT Y
Sustainability Strategy launch FURMARK
FASHION
Fur & Sustainability in Fashion Media IFF and The Spanish Fur Association Panel Discussion with TELVA The Fur Talks Podcast Influencers Bringing fur to Fashion Weeks 2020 Style Notes News Ethical and Sustainable Fashion : Fad or Future? Runways
GLOBAL NEWS Asia Eurasia Europe America
CEO Comment A FEW YEARS AGO, the word “sustainability” was the subject of science articles used by academics. Today, in 2020, it’s become the only word on the lips of fashion brands aiming to be in tune with a younger generation. For the fur sector, sustainability has been at the heart of our operations for over decades. It is great news that today there is more focus on slow, natural and sustainable fashion – these are three pillars on which the IFF’s Sustainability Strategy was built and launched in London in February 2020. Natural fur ticks so many boxes within responsible and sustainable sourcing. But the reality is we must do much, much, more to educate and demonstrate to our consumers and partners how natural fur is responsibly sourced through the value chain, from farm through to the retailer. We must set ambitious but achievable targets to reduce our carbon footprint and keep improving our operations for a greener future. That is why this edition of Fur Times explores how the fur industry is rising to the sustainability challenge. With regards, Mark Oaten CEO, International Fur Federation
Fashion
Left: Panelists Gianluca Longo, John Papso, Ineta Joskaite and Ryan Holt Bottom: IFF Director of Standards and Sustainability Paul Stockall presenting the Sustainability Strategy
IFF LAUNCHED THEIR HIGHLY ANTICIPATED SUSTAINABILITY STRATEGY IN LONDON
On Monday, February 17th, 2020, the International Fur Federation (IFF) launched its Sustainability Strategy at the Royal Danish Embassy during London Fashion Week. Under the title “Natural Fur. Delivering Sustainability”, the IFF announced its decade-long commitment to animal welfare, the environment and people across the fur industry’s global supply chain. During an informative and engaging breakfast session, the IFF presented its strategy and ambitions for the coming decade and beyond. Thought-provoking questions were asked, such as: “How can fashion and retail sectors address issues around their long-term sustainability, including the challenge of fast fashion and global supply chains?” and addressed by the speakers.
After a warm welcome by Ulrik Petersen, Deputy Ambassador of Denmark to the U.K. , the panel was opened by IFF CEO, Mark Oaten, who highlighted that Sustainability is not only a buzzword and a nice-to-have, but a musthave, which the fur industry is committed to implementing. IFF’s Director of Standards and Sustainability, Paul Stockall, then presented IFF’s extensive Sustainability strategy and commitment. The strategy sets ambitions and goals based around three key pillars, which are Good for Welfare, Good for the Environment and Good for People. The launch of FURMARK, the global certification and tracebility scheme for sustainable, natural fur, will be IFF’s major step to implement and regulate welfare standards across the supply chain. Actions around the environment are based on the evaluation of the carbon footprint of farm-raised and wild fur, and improving the industry’s circularity by the reuse of any by-products and the up- and recycling of fur. The third pillar focues on communities and workers within the fur industry, with the next decade seeing the impemantiation of social certification.
GOOD FOR WELFARE
GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT
GOOD FOR THE PEOPLE
Ryan Holt, Chairman of the Fur International Council of America, continued the panel discussion by addressing the rising environmental pollution and problem of microplastics, of which the fashion industry is a huge contributor. And as part of that industry, the fur sector has responsibility towards the environment. He pointed out that wild fur contributes to balancing and managing wildlife,
Fashion thus protecting ecosystems and natural resources. The discussion was then headed by John Papso – a Danish fur farmer who gave an insight into his business. He emphasised that consumers should be aware of the power they have and that their choices have an impact. Fur is a product which lasts for generations - not seasons. And even when ultimately disposed of, fur will biodegrade which feeds the circular economy. Papso explained how fur farming contributes to fashion circular economy, he and other fur farmers work closely with other industries, using remnants from the food industry to feed his animals and using manure from his farm as a natural fertiliser for the surrounding fields. The discussion then turned to designer Ineta Joskaite who explained her journey working with fur. Having previously designed with faux-fur, Joskaite discovered the drastic environmental impacts of plastic materials by accident. Joskaite explained how good designs should be timeless and so should be the materials. Learning about fur’s inherent sustainability qualities, especially in opposition to fake-fur, Joskaite fell in love with natural fur and challenges everyone to look behind sensationalist headlines propagated by animal rights extremists who mislead the consumer with false information. “Sustainability is the biggest revolution in fashion since the invention of the corset” - Gianluca Longo, British Vogue Style Editor and panellist at the IFF’s Sustainability Strategy launch confessed before lining out how sustainability became a trend in the recent years. Longo explained how today, brands and industries are embracing ‘Sustainability’ in different ways, from producing less, using different materials and dyes, to re- and upcycling. But the thing that has probably changed the most, Longo continued, is the consumer’s demand for transparency and information. A
shift from fabulous and beautiful fashion to transparent and clean fashion has happened, giving rise to the conscious consumer who is not satisfied by a simple “Made in Italy” label anymore. Instead, consumers want to know more about a garment’s origin. This is where Longo sees FURMARK leading the way and offering full transparency of the whole supply chain. But Longo also realises that sustainability and transparency are shared responsibilities. “Fashion is a message”, Longo stated, and thus journalists and magazines should contribute to spreading the right message to inform the public. The panel ended with a positive outlook to the next decade and the changes it will bring, followed by engaging networking and discussions between panellist and guest, including Charlotte Turner, Sustainable Apparel & Textile Specialist at Eco-Age, the Icelandic Ambassador to the U.K. Stefán Haukur Jóhannesson, journalist Flora Gill, Leena Harkimo from the Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association, diplomats from fur-producing countries including Denmark, Finland, Greece, Afghanistan, and Canada, as well as journalists from WWD, Sourcing Journal, GQ and Tatler U.K. Natural Fur garments were displayed around the conference room at the Danish embassy, and everyone in attendance was provided a copy of IFF’s Sustainability Strategy and FURMARK Executive Summary. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Denmark’s event summary stated that ‘[this] work aligns with the Danish Government’s goal to implement decisive goals around sustainability, including exploring ways to be able to over time to move to a carbon neutral economy also in the farming industry. Fur therefore has a role to play as part of the solution to the problems surrounding fast fashion, and this new sustainability strategy emphasises that with clarity.’
Top right: CEO of the British Fur Trade Assiciation Giles Roca in conversation with MP Lisa Cameron’s team Bottom, left to right: Journalist Flora Gill and furrier Eggert Johansson Marika Peuhkuri-Grön (SAGA), Leena Harkimo ( Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association) and Maria Bredenberg (Finnish Embassy) (right)
“Sustainability is the biggest revolution in fashion since the invention of the corset” - gianluca longo, british vogue style editor
Fashion
UPDATES ON FURMARK FURMARK is the International Fur Federation’s (IFF) global certification and traceability program for sustainable natural fur launching in 2020. FURMARK is a comprehensive world-class certification and traceability program that covers sustainability, animal welfare, and transparency at all stages of the fur trade’s supply chain. The IFF has been working closely with stakeholders within the fur sector to ensure that each aspect of FURMARK has full oversight. The last FURMARK steering group took place in December (2019) in Paris, deciding on an independent review of the certification programmes which fall under FURMARK by third-party experts as a final step towards its implementation. ChainPoint is progressing with the development of the traceability solution with the ambition to begin shortly testing with key fashion businesses before the FURMARK program is rolled-out further in 2020.
Two pilot projects will be running before the final FURMARK launch in 2020. The first one is being held in partnership with luxury conglomerate LVMH and will be exploring ways to implement the traceability scheme and how it can translate into end-consumer information. In the first week of March, a workshop with LVMH’s brands will be held to inform them about the new FURMARK programme and to establish workflows to implement the scheme within their businesses. The second pilot focuses on manufacturers and how they can implement traceability and labelling solutions. Current actions are exploring different solutions on labelling skins and garments and exploring how to offer traceability information to the different stages of the supply chain, including manufacturer, retailer and consumer. By the end of 2019, thousands of farms were successfully FURMARK certified with more audits taking place throughout the year. Dressers and Dyers continue to be evaluated by a thirdparty institute until the end of the first quarter in 2020, leading to the final certification after the on-site visits. Ultimately, FURMARK enables retailers, brands and consumers to have complete assurance and confidence when buying fur – the premier natural, sustainable textile. To support all recent activities, we have updated the FURMARK brochure and created an executive summary version, which is now available in 10 languages. If you would like to know more about a potential members event or translation of the FURMARK brochure and supporting materials, please contact Claudia Proietti – cproietti@iftf.com.
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FUR & SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION MEDIA The Worldwide Roll-Out of IFF’s Fashion Sustainability campaign
With spring approaching, IFF’s Fashion Sustainability Campaign is in its final stages concluding with impressive results across all channels. The campaign appeared in over 20 countries, highlighting the many reasons why natural fur is the only responsible and sustainable fashion choice. Our advertisement appeared in various national editions of Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, Viva, Vanity Fair, and magazines as WWD, Tatler, Wallpaper, Gala, FAZ, Woman, Kurier, Mine Magazine, Telva, Hola Fashion, Blue Wings and Green Knowledge. The campaign’s last appearance has been on Elle.it and Elle.fr in a digital campaign, inviting readers to learn more about fur on our dedicated Fashion Sustainability Campaign microsite. Currently, our latest expert video, as part of the Fashion Sustainability campaign, featuring Linda and Mosha Lundström, the founders of Therma Kōta, is being rolled out across IFF’s social media platforms. The mother and daughter business duo can be heard in the video stating: “What I love about fur products is that they’re infinitely recyclable they compost back into the earth; there’s something really holistic and beautiful about that.” With four video pushes completed on social media, we already reached more than 120 million people. And with two more to come, we are positive that we will have successfully spread our message – that fur is a fashionable and sustainable material – to more than 170 million people worldwide via Instagram and Facebook.
Fashion
IFF AND THE SPANISH FUR ASSOCIATION HOST PANEL DISCUSSION ON SUSTAINABLE LUXURY WITH TELVA MAGAZINE IN MADRID On Wednesday, 27th November 2019, the Spanish Fur Association (SFA), International Fur Federation (IFF) and Spanish fashion magazine TELVA hosted an intimate and vivid panel discussion at the exclusive Club Alma in Madrid discussing sustainable luxury and its future. Moderated by TELVA fashion editor-in-chief and sustainability advocate, Marta de la Calzada, the panel consisted of SFA President Emilio Álavarez, fashion designer Domingo Rodriguez (DOMINNICO), TV presenter and haute couture collector Carmen Lomana, President of Moda España, Angel Asensio, PR, Communications and Marketing at the sustainable brand Ecoalf, Monica Oliart, and fashion expert and University lecturer Isabel Fernández de Córdova.
From left to right: Marta de la Calzada, Domingo Rodriguez, Emilio Álvarez, Angel Asensio, Monica Oliart, Carmen Lomana and Isabel Fernández de Córdova
Marta de la Calzada opened the panel stating how fashion has changed drastically over recent decades with trends changing faster than ever. Marta claimed that we need to go back to natural materials such as wool, leather, fur and silk, which are less polluting than synthetic materials. A vivid discussion about contemporary consumption behaviour and the use of natural materials followed. Introducing the current image problems fur is facing, Dominncio explained how the singer Rosalía got attacked for wearing his fur designs and decided to not wear any fur in public for the moment. The panel then debated how fur is actually an opposition to the fast fashion model and an outstanding example of sustainability. Carmen Lomana stated these kinds of comments on social media should always be answered with “I am wearing fur, because I am more sustainable and concerned about the environment than you are”. Emilio Álavarez then explained that fur biodegrades in opposition to its faux alternatives and is part of a transparent and regulated value chain, with the fur industry introducing the FURMARK programme in 2020 to guarantee transparency and a certified product. The debate then touched on the impacts of the fast fashion model, which is flooding our world with unwanted clothes made of plastic that end up in landfill. Monica Oliart from Ecoalf pointed out how through fast fashion, a lot of people have lost the understanding, value and the true cost of a product.
Fashion The discussion concluded with a positive outlook of the future of sustainable luxury. As a returning argument throughout the evening, the debate ended by acknowledging the importance of natural and sustainable materials for making real change and led to animated conversations over drinks and canapés. At the venue, the designs of Hüseyin Özer, Silver-prize winner of IFF and Vogue Italia’s international fashion design competition REMIX (2019), were on display. Hüseyin himself
“I am wearing fur, because I am more sustainable and concerned about the environment than you are”, says panelist carmen lomana
was able to present and explain his designs informing the interested guests about the REMIX competition. The over 30 guests included representatives from Madrid Fashion Week, Oscar de la Renta, Fashion and Design Universities, Pretty Ballerinas, influencer Jesús Reyes and members of the SFA. IFF’s, SFA’s and TELVA’s panel was a platform to discuss the challenges of the fashion industry and what sustainable luxury will look like in the future. It was a unique opportunity to talk about the benefits of natural materials as wool, fur and leather in opposition to fast fashion and synthetic materials. All guests in attendance received the latest edition of TELVA and a copy of IFF’s Natural Fur and FURMARK Brochures. Coverage of the event appeared in the newspapers El Mundo and Expansíon, and a 3-page feature was published in the TELVA January 2020 issue. Furthermore, an online article with a video of the event was published online on Telva.com which was promoted throughout the website. The online article, a photo gallery and the video can be viewed here: https://www.telva.com/ moda/2019/12/03/5de5c49601a2f1596f8b4572.html
Impreso por . Prohibida su reproducción.
Impreso por . Prohibida su reproducción.
encuentros
Mesa redonda 1.Marta de la Calzada, de TELVA. 2.Hilario Alfaro, de Alfaro 1926. 3. Beatriz Nicolás, propietaria de Beniroom. 4.Nuria de Miguel. 5.Mónica Oliart, de Ecoalf. 6.Carmen Lomana y Emilio Álvarez, presidente de Spanish Fur Association. 7.Sarina Kastendiek, de Internation Fur Federation.
1 Moda y sostenibilidad centraron el debate. 3
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LUJO SOSTENIBLE Desde TELVA abordamos los nuevos retos para un consumo de moda más responsable en un encuentro organizado junto a Spanish Fur Association e International Fur Federation. — Fotos: Kike Palacio.
Diseño de Hüseyin Özer galardonado con el segundo Premio REMIX.
Top (from left to right): Hüseyin Özer, REMIX 2019 Silver-prize winner with his designs; The evening’s agenda, a TELVA issue and FURMARK brochures were given to all guests Middle: Event coverage in TELVA January issue, Hüseyin Özer and Carmen Lomana, event coverage in TELVA January issue Bottom: Different fur designs were shown at the panel at Madrid’s Club Alma
l futuro de la moda se viste de sostenibilidad a petición de las nuevas generaciones, cada vez más comprometidas, y de un planeta cuyos recursos se agotan. No obstante, el actual consumo ultrarrápido y masivo contradice el discurso de muchas marcas. El diseñador Domingo Rodríguez, creador de la firma Dominnico en la que confían celebrities como Lady Gaga o Rosalía; Emilio Álvarez, presidente de Spanish Fur Association (Asociación Española de la Peletería); Ángel Asensio, presidente de Moda España; Mónica Oliart, responsable de redes sociales de Ecoalf; la empresaria Carmen Lomana; e Isabel Fernández de Córdova, docente y profesional de la industria textil, protagonizaron una mesa redonda centrada en la
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Fashion The podcast was moderated by Gianluca Longo, British Vogue Style Editor, Journalist and Fashion Observer, and the panel of fashion and cultural commentators’ features: Maurice Mullen, Head of Fashion & Luxury Goods, London Evening Standard & ‘ES’ Magazine Judith Watt, Central Saint Martin’s Journalism lecturer, Fashion Historian, Academic and Writer Karinna Nobbs, Fashion Futurist and Founder at HOT:SECOND Florian Steinberger, Senior Lecturer in Philosophy, Birkbeck College, University of London Yves Salomon, President of Yves Salomon Christopher Snowdon, Head of Lifestyle Economics, Institute of Economic Affairs.
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THE FUR TALKS PODCAST CANCEL CULTURE, FAUX ACTIVISM
AND FREEDOM OF CHOICE DEBATING TODAY’S HOT TOPICS IN A PANEL DISCUSSION WITH HIGH PROFILE SPEAKERS
On January 20th, 2020, the IFF published an episode of the “Fur Talks” podcast tackling cancellation culture, faux activism and freedom of choice. The podcast asks questions like: ‘Is cancel culture a form of bullying? Is faux activism threatening our freedom of choice and expression? How is the future of fashion looking in a cancel culture landscape?” And brings the whole discussion back to natural fur.
Gianluca navigated the hot discussion injecting fashion and cultural references throughout. Each of the speakers presented a unique perspective on fur and the position of fur within contemporary fashion and culture. Those with a pro-fur position were able to educate those who were neutral and challenge those who were anti-fur. By featuring a range of opinions, the podcast was a nuanced and interesting debate – a true reflection of society and not a pro-fur propaganda session. IFF advertised the podcast in a list of key media to amplify its reach including WWD promoting it online on their website with a dedicated email blast, fashion newsletters feature for two consecutive weeks, and through a sponsored Instagram post that was shared with WWD’s 1.1M followers. IFF have also advertised the podcast on Spotify and on the IFF’s social media channels (Facebook, Instagram and Twitter). As of now, more than 600 people have listened to the heated discussion and first reports show that about 70,000 people have been reached by our advertisement across channels, with further statistics to add on in early March. Listen to the full panel discussion here: https://soundcloud.com/user-34910270/ join-gianluca-longo-6-fashioncommentators-debate-freedom-ofchoice-cancel-culture
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FUR TALKS EXPLORES THE MEN’S FASHION WEEKS WITH INFLUENCER FILIPPO FIORA On the 31st of January 2020, the IFF caught-up with fashion influencer and one-half of the creative mind and design-duo behind luxury footwear brand Edhen Milano, Filippo Fiora, to discuss fur and the latest menswear trends during Men’s AW20 Fashion month. Covering everything from getting ready for shows to fun furs and Filippo’s runway favourites, the podcast covered many topics delving into fur in menswear with questions, including: ‘do you think fur is having a moment in menswear?’, ‘how do you usually get ready for fashion shows?’, and ‘have you seen any trends that you think will continue?.’ To promote the podcast and drive traffic to Fur Talks and wearefur.com, Filippo has posted a picture of him wearing an elegant Swakara coat on Instagram to his 161,000 followers with a positive caption about natural fur as well as including a link to the podcast in his bio and on his story. The IFF is also promoting the podcast on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter sharing our message that natural fur is a responsible, sustainable, youthful and modern material. You can listen to the full podcast here: https:// soundcloud.com/user-34910270/all-accessmens-fashion-week-with-filippo-fiora
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FROM BERLIN TO PARIS – IFF COLLABORATES WITH INFLUENCERS BRINGING FUR TO THE FASHION WEEK CITIES NINA SUESS PROMOTING NATURAL FUR AT BERLIN FASHION WEEK
As you would have read in our last issue of Fur Times and seen on our social media channels, German high fashion influencer Nina Suess is proudly wearing natural fur cross her social media platforms and is being applauded for her sustainable choice by her fan base. After a very successful collaboration featuring a Manakas coat – which actually sold out immediately after Nina posted to Instagram wearing it – we took our partnership to another round this January during Berlin Fashion Week. At one of Berlin’s main attractions, the iconic Brandenburger Tor, Nina stepped out in a cosy shearling
jacket made by Rosenberg&Lenhart as the city was buzzing with Fashion Week visitors. Nina’s confident statement resonated well with her audience, with 31 comments all celebrating her choice, style and look. Within just a few days, her post was liked by more than 2.500 people.
Fashion BRITISH GQ’S STYLE EDITOR TEO VAN DEN BROEKE SPOTTED WEARING A REBECCA BRADLEY MINK SCARF AT PARIS FASHION WEEK However, Nina wasn’t the only Instagram celebrity stunning in fur styles during fashion weeks. Teo van den Broeke, style editor at British GQ and contributing editor for Harrods, was spotted during Paris Fashion Week Men’s adding some furry cosiness to his cool and minimalistic streetstyle. Teo was wearing a customised Rebecca Bradley mink scarf he received as part of a gifting program running in the U.K. He shared his look with his 26.7k followers, who simply found his look “ ”.
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2020 STYLE NOTES
A first and exclusive glance at our new image library for spring 2020
SPRUNG PARIS 1913 X SAGA FURS Fox Jacket by SPRUNG FURS
Fashion Navy Lamb Jacket with Leather Trims by POLOGEORGIS
Fashion Canadian Marten and Denim Long Waistcoat by PAJARO
Left: Colourful Mink & Red Racoon Mini Dress by HÜSEYIN ÖZER Right: Foxy Strong Blue Belted Leather Coat with Fox Fur Trimming by SAKS POTTS
Left: Navy Mink Long Coat by POLOGEORGIS Right: NAFA Mink Coat with Crystal Embroidery by OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Left: Navy Lamb Jacket with Leather Trims by POLOGEORGIS Right: Multi Mink Type Coat by KOPENHAGEN FUR Studio
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Red Mink Coat by SAGA FURS X HAFNIUM
Fashion Leopard Print Jacket by LISKA
Fashion Fox and Muskrat Knitted Sweater by WANG DONG
The 2020 Style Notes image library will be made available to all members for use on their social media platforms soon – stay tuned!
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NEWS
THE FUR INDUSTRY IS FIGHTING BACK – VOGUE BUSINESS INDUSTRY ASSOCIATIONS don’t believe fur bans or changes in public opinion have significantly affected fur sales. Instead, they point to economic fluctuations, especially in China, which is one of the largest fur markets. (Around 80 per cent of Italian fur is exported to China, according to AIP). But as environmental concerns mount, the fur industry is on the defence. In response to the rise of faux alternatives, fur associations are vehemently promoting their product as a naturally sustainable choice, in hopes of bucking beliefs that alternative furs are the more responsible option. That involves educating customers on environmental impact, animal welfare and traceability. “We are aware that consumers demand more transparency and they really care about animal welfare,” says Jesper Lauge Christensen, CEO of Kopenhagen Fur. Fur industry associations stress the material’s long lifecycle, the fact that it’s biodegradable and the absence of harsh chemicals in its processing as proof of real fur’s inherent sustainability. According to Roberto Scarpella, president of AIP, fur dressing mainly consists of water, salt and alum (a chemical compound). Other more hazardous substances, like formaldehyde, dyes and bleaches, can be used when pelts are dyed, but the associations say the impact is minimal compared to the production of faux fur, which is still most commonly made of synthetic materials like polyester or modacrylic. The industry has been active in promoting its inherent sustainability and work to lessen environmental impact, and associations have especially engaged with young designers. “There is interest in the use of fur from young designers and new modern brands that have a strong sustainability element in their design philosophy and brand values,” says Tia Matthews, senior spokesperson at Saga Furs. https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/materials-furindustry-faux-vegan-prada-chanel-yoox-net-a-porter-burberry
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SAN FRANCISCO’S CITY-WIDE BAN ON NEW FUR SALES CALLED “UNCONSTITUTIONAL” IN NEWLY-FILED LAWSUIT – THE FASHION LAW
advancing “the welfare of any animals in San Francisco.” Instead, the sweeping limits on the sale of new fur products (with a few exceptions, such as those for the sale of cowhide, deerskin, sheepskin and goatskin, and fur products used for tribal or religious reasons, for instance) that are put in place by the newly-implemented ban – which takes the form of an amendment to the San Francisco Health Code – merely serve to “interfere with interstate and foreign commerce,” and thereby, “violates the Commerce Clause of the United States Constitution,” argues the United Kingdom-based IFF. https://www.thefashionlaw.com/ home/san-franciscos-ban-on-new-fursales-called-unconstitutional-innewly-filed-lawsuit
SAN FRANCISCO’S city-wide ban on the sale of new fur products went into effect on January 1. Now, just two weeks later, the prohibition – which makes San Francisco the largest city in the United States to ban fur sales – is facing its first legal challenge. In a newly-filed lawsuit, a prominent trade group is taking on the ban, arguing that it is not only “so arbitrary as to be ridiculous,” it violates the United States Constitution. According to a complaint filed in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California on Monday, the International Fur Federation (“IFF”) claims that the City and County of San Francisco, and Dr. Grant Colfax, who is the Director of the San Francisco Department of Public Health, are on the hook for by enacting an “arbitrary” and “ridiculous” bill that is “not about the health or safety of any human beings in San Francisco” and similarly not about protecting or
REAL FUR TO SEE RESURGENCE IN CANADA AMID PERCEPTION SHIFT: OPINION – RETAIL INSIDER GROWING UP in Toronto I remember my mother wearing fur. Any fancy event or outing she would wear her Mink coat. To her, it was a staple. In our society it was a subtle nod to defi ning your elegance and sophistication. There is something about the uber luxury of mink that sustains in our current culture today. Mink now comes in all styles — contemporary bombers to luxury duster coats. Suitable on both a young trendy millennial and a more mature baby boomer. In the height of a climate crisis, we find more and more people taking an approach towards sustainable fashion. There are many arguments for and against the fur industry. Often the
research is biased depending on who the article is published by. Faux fur is a far bigger threat to wildlife than the real thing. This is because most faux-fur and “vegan leathers” are made from petrochemical based materials such as PVC and polyester — fabrics that are made from liquid plastic spun into yarn or pressed into a shoe. These plastics can take up to 200 years to decompose, and they create microfibres that are too small to be filtered in our water treatment systems. They then become micro-plastics which shed into the habitats of many animals, while also contaminating our waterways, fills, and landfills. A study from UK group “Friends of the Earth” estimates that 1600 tones
of micro-plastics were shed from synthetic fabrics such as polyester in 2018 alone. People think of fake fur as a disposable thing. They buy it, wear it a few seasons and throw it away. Real fur is more often recycled into new coats, given to grandchildren and passed on through generations. https://www.retail-insider.com/retailinsider/2019/12/real-fur-to-seeresurgence-in-canada-amid-perceptionshift-opinion?fbclid=IwAR2TYr_ PdRNmK2In1svelXoDfFc0gDh1G8F_ kgAx9H9YrbDDb3W_Bw-HxwA
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ETHICAL AND SUSTAINABLE FASHION: FAD OR FUTURE? Since “ethical” and “sustainable” fashion became integral components of fashion brands’ sustainability strategies, a string of recycled mostly beige linen garments photographed against a backdrop of environmental hashtags have become a staple of nearly all high street and high fashion brands. However, the industrial rate at which fashion is being produced is speeding up so much that it’s actually begun to outpace the efforts of brands to make fashion more sustainable. Therefore, accompanying the privilege attached to shopping ethical and sustainable clothing is a burning question: is it simply too late for ethical and sustainable fashion? It is widely accepted that the fashion industry has reacted too late and too slowly to meet the ethical and sustainable expectations demanded by consumers today. In fact, it was actually forewarned by Marketing Professor at the University of Pennsylvania Barbara Kahn that once trends like ethics and sustainability engulf the fashion industry, “the legacy brands better be paying attention.” This was the reality for Forever 21. Once sewn into the fabric of high streets around the world, in September 2019, Forever 21 filed for bankruptcy. Unlike Forever 21’s two biggest competitors Zara – which in July (2019) pledged to use 100% sustainable fabrics by 2025 – and H&M, which at the start of October (2019) released plans to become ‘climatepositive’ by 2040 – meaning they will achieve net zero carbon emissions – Forever 21 failed to adapt to and has been cast aside.
Arguably, brands are only creating sustainable fashion lines as a response to a consumer shift towards ethical and sustainable products. But why? One way we can answer this question is by looking at shopping trends, in particular how fashion is purchased. Online shopping with its easy accessibility has become the most popular route to buying anything from fashion to technology. According to Fashion United, each age group is experiencing a rise in online shopping with 89% of 25-34-years old shop online the most. This is supported by Statista which also crowned 25-34 year olds as the biggest shoppers of clothes an sports goods online in the UK in 2019, scoring 80%. Taking these facts into consideration, it can be concluded that the age group dominating the online shopping market is 16-34 year olds – an age group are the most social media led. Therefore, it’s not surprising that fast fashion consumption dominates the fashion industry as young consumers shop the cheap wear-once-and-throw-away garments worn by their favourite influencers, who rarely (if ever) advertise ecofriendly recycled five-hundred pound jumpers and onethousand dollars upcycled carbon-neutral fur coats. Fashion influencers and online shopping has perpetuated the fast fashion problem. But you don’t need to take my word for it, Drapers reported that online retailer I Saw It First’s exclusive sponsorship of Love Island, the most popular television show in the UK amongst 16-34 year olds according to the BBC (the same demographic reported by Fashion United and Statica as online shopping the most) reported a jump in sales of 40%, increased website traffic by 60%, and a 254% increase in Instagram followers during the shows two-month span. I Saw it First’s Brand Director Leanne Holmes said, “This has proven to be a fantastic opportunity for us to gain direct access to our target audience as we’ve had a quarter of a million new customers shop on site since the first episode aired. The Love Island live TV show, app and associated social media, allows us to make [affordable fashion accessible] as we showcase what’s been worn in the show with an option to purchase.” Leanne continued, “Our audience can see a look on the show and make it theirs the very next day. This is exactly what I Saw It First strives for: delivering affordable, high fashion, fast.” This online and influencer-led marketing strategy is manipulating the shopping habits of the most easily accessible consumers. However, the greater influencer marketing becomes in dictating trends, the greater damage done to slow fashion and the environment. This example highlights how brands like I Saw It First are successful at engaging with consumers, regardless of the challenges ethical and sustainable fashion demands propose. But more significantly, it signifies that while there is a lot of media noise around the demand for ethical and sustainable fashion, a large proportion of consumers don’t appear to be taking much notice. This allows many critics to argue ethical and sustainable fashion is a fad, not the future, and it could be too late for any drastic change to occur. However, with the rise of climate activists and slow fashion, which promotes natural materials and net zero waste, the future is in fact, in all of our hands.
LO U I S V U IT TO N
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Discover the Natural Fur highlights from this season’s Men’s Fashion Weeks
LO U I S V U I T TO N FENDI
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Global News —— Hong Kong International Fur & Fashion Fair 2020 to be postponed In the light of the development of the Coronavirus outbreak, the Hong Kong Fur Federation treats the safety of exhibitors, buyers and members as their top priority. Taking the precautions and safety measures by the local Department of Health in Hong Kong and mainland China, as well as the World Health Organisation recommendations seriously, the fair will be postponed to later this year, with a date to be confirmed in due time. The Hong Kong Fur Federation’s determination to host the world’s most effective and outstanding trading platform for the fur & fashion industry remains unchanged.
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The 16th SAGA• Luxury Award China Fur Design Competition
asia —— The first fur fair of 2020 in Beijing The Beijing 2020 International Fur and Leather Fair (BIFE) & Beijing Winter Clothing Exhibition (BWFS) were held from 6th – 8th of January as the first international fur fair of 2020. More than 150 exhibitors of the fur and down sector participated in the fair, which united various materials to attract a bigger number of buyers. The IFF was present with a stand promoting sustainable and natural fur, supporting the Chinese fur sector. On the evening of the 1st day, a fashion show featuring fur was held and the 16th SAGA Luxury Award China Fur Design Competition finale saw three winners being awarded.
—— More GOOD4FUR Certified Farms Boosting Fur Farming On January 6th, the GOOD4FUR Certified Farm press meeting took place with more than 100 attendees present, including government representatives. The GOOD4FUR certification is one of the strongest for fur farming standards. This year, five farms have been certified by the GOOD4FUR Certified Farm project.
GODD4FUR certified farmers
—— Fur Masterclass Moscow On November 13, 2019, an international master class for Russian and international designers was held in Moscow, discussing the use of modern technologies in design and manufacturing of fur garments. The event was organised by the Russian Fur Union with support of the International Fur Federation (IFF), Kopenahgen Fur, Sojuzpushnina and SAGA Furs. It was held by Russian and international designers as well as representatives from Kopenhagen Fur, highlighting that natural fur is a sustainable material while showcasing samples and modern sewing techniques and answering the curious audience’s questions. The master class was attended by more than 250 people including, design students, representatives of fur companies and teachers of specialized educational institutions from all over Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkey and Denmark.
“The Hong Kong Fur Federation’s determination to host the world’s most effective and outstanding trading platform for the fur & fashion industry remains unchanged.”
Global News The exhibition stand became a main attraction in the Parliament for three days attracting passers-by with a live fur remodelling demonstration and virtual reality visits of fur farms. The result - close to 150 bilateral meetings with politicians and experts and hundreds of visitors entering the stand with curiosity. Through the event, European fur members reached out to important political stakeholders from all relevant fur countries, and talked about their work with MEPs from big political groups.
Winners Remix EURASIA
—— REMIX-EURASIA 2019 The finale of the REMIX EURASIA competition for young fur designers took place on November 13 in Moscow. More than 300 designers from Russia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Belarus and Turkey attended the event which was organized by the Russian Fur Union with support of the IFF, SAGA Furs, Kopenhagen Fur and the Fur Union. Standing out from the 19 finalists, Maria Litvinenko (from Russia) received the 1st prize and was awarded an honorary diploma with a memorable trip to the Creative studio at Kopenhagen Fur. The 2nd place was awarded to Svetlana Khmeleva (Russia), who received an honorary diploma with a memorable trip to study at the Saga Furs design center. And the 3rd place was awarded to Kamila Zigangirova (Russia), who was also awarded an honorary diploma and a money prize from the Sojuzpushnina auction.
—— Breakfast with Bloggers Kopenhagen Fur and the Russian Fur Union hosted a blogger breakfast in collaboration with Cosmo Shopping magazine on the 9th December in Moscow. The panel discussed myths about fake fur and sustainability, educating guests about the false facts of “eco-fur” and how to care and maintain natural fur ensuring it lasts a lifetime. The breakfast event was attended by representatives from the Russian Fur Union, Kopenhagen Fur, Ekaterina Furs, Braschi, Manakas Frankfurt, Amplua, Snow Queen and Vtoroy Mekhovoy. More than 10 bloggers attended the event and shared their experience to their large following, ranging from 150,000 followers up to 1 million followers, showing that Natural Fur is an essential part of Russian culture and a fashionable, modern, sustainable material.
Blogger Breakfast, Moscow
—— Biggest Fur Event in the European Parliament The fur community in Europe came to Brussels to attend Fur Europe’s keynote event “This is Fur” in the European Parliament on 21-23 January. Gathering different people who stand behind fur at the doorstep of European policymakers, the exhibition aimed to raise awareness about an industry, with which many are not familiar.
europe
—— Sustainable Fur Forum Kicks Off In the European Parliament A new cross-party and crosscommittee platform on fur was launched in the European Parliament in January. The Sustainable Fur Forum – SFF is intended for all Members of the European Parliament who consider sustainability an essential component of today’s production and consumption dynamics. SFF is chaired by MEP Juozas Olekas (S&D, Lithuania) and MEP Manolis Kefalogiannis (EPP, Greece) as a Vice-Chair. The platform will bring science-based and fact-based input in the conversation about fur in the European Parliament, allowing balanced and constructive debates about animal welfare, environment and biodiversity. The first event will take place in April 2020. It will focus on the upcoming Circular Economy Action Plan promoted by the European Commission. —— First WelFur Certified Skins Enter Global Market The first WelFur certified skins went on sale at international fur auction house Saga Furs in December, making European fashion brands the most active buyers in the auction room. Fur broker Alex Tarantola was amongst the 200 international buyers in the audition room who arrived in Helsinki to buy skins. He is noticing a shift in the attitude of the fashion brands he works with when it comes to certified natural fur. “It’s not only increased interest in
Global News “It’s not only increased interest in getting certified pelts. For brands now, certification is a must,” says Alex Tarantola”
getting certified pelts. For brands now, certification is a must,” says Alex while carefully observing the auctioneers at the podium. “They need to be covered by a credible certification. And it’s not a matter whether it’s worth more or less. It is a matter of whether they are in or out.” As traceability remains amongst the main challenges for the fashion industry, WelFur skins allow brands to reassure their customers that the fur comes from highly controlled production systems.
AMERICAS —— UNDRIP2020 IFF Americas, along with Fur Canada, was pleased to be present at this year’s United Nations Declaration of Rights of Indigenous People conference in British Columbia. Fur Canada at UNDRIP 2020
—— FICA FICA held its annual meeting on January 27th. While we were sad to see former Chairman Marcie Rae go, the new Chairman Nick Pologeorgis is a leader of the New York trade; he has served previously on the FICA Board (as Chairman) and the IFF Americas Board. —— BANS IFF AMERICAS is working hard on the ground with FUR New York, FICA, FINA, FCUSA and GFNY garnering grassroot support to fight any new suggested bans, while still working hard and remaining vigilant in New York.
—— SAN FRANCISCO The International Fur Federation launched litigation on the 13th of January to prevent San Francisco from implementing a city ordinance banning the sale of fur. The ordinance, passed in 2018, gave existing department stores until Jan. 1, 2020, to sell off their remaining fur stock and prohibits the sale of newly manufactured fur coats, hats, gloves, fur-trimmed parkas, and other products. The lawsuit argues San Francisco has “no legitimate local interest to ban fur sales” and that the ordinance is an “unconstitutional restriction on interstate and foreign commerce”. For more information on the lawsuit please feel free to contact mbrown@ iftf.com —— FIC IFF Americas funds a yearly advocacy day in Canada through the FIC, which will be held in early June 2020. They have also announced the date for their 37thAnnual General Meeting, taking
Did you know each fake fur coat is equivalent to over 5000 plastic straws?
place June 4th to the 6th in Ottawa. For more information please contact info@fur.ca —— FINA FINA representatives from across the Industry will be going to Washington on a frequent basis throughout the year, addressing a wide range of issues ranging from trade and tariff restrictions to “eco terrorism” through use of the AETA, potential trapping restrictions and environmental restrictions applicable to mink farming. —— THE SISTERHOOD OF THE TRAVELLING STRAW COAT Did you know each fake fur coat is equivalent to over 5000 plastic straws? Our coat is making the rounds! From our provincial legislatures in Canada, to the upcoming Toronto Sportsman Show and the Cottage Life Shows in Ottawa and Toronto. This coat adds the visual to our message that fake fur isn’t sustainable. Want to use our coat? Email mcalandra@iftf.com
The International Fur & Leather Expo 2020, Seoul WHEN 24-26TH MARCH 2020
HOW TO APPLY EMAIL KMAHMOOD@IFTF.COM
WHERE SEOUL PARANAS, THE GRAND INTERCONTINENTAL
MORE INFORMATION
(MISS KIRAN MAHMOOD, IFF DIRECTOR OF FINANCE) www.seoulfurfair.com
The International Fur Federation (IFF) invites you to Seoul for the 2020 International Fur and Leather Expo. From March 24-26th, 2020, hundreds of business and fashion leaders from the world of fur and leather will descend on Seoul, Korea, for threedays of networking, discussions and business development. Following the success of IFF’s ‘Asia Roadshow’ over recent years, with 2019 being the most successful, IFF, along with their members, exhibitors, and visitors will return to the Grand InterContinental Seoul Parnas, seeking new industry opportunities to strengthen and further their business goals. Seoul, Korea, was selected as the host nation for IFF’s Int Fur & Leather Expo for its budding fashion scene, increasing economy, and, most importantly, Seoul was selected for its growing global influence in fashion, technology and international business. The Exhibition agenda is packed with exciting events and opportunities, so, what can you expect? As well as the opportunity to explore potential business ventures in different countries within the Asia market, you will also be able to reach out to a number of potential buyers within the fashion industry, namely, businesses that may not attend other fashion exhibitions such as MiFUR or the Hong Kong Fur Fair. Also, on offer is the chance to develop and strengthen your brand through new audience acquisition and potential customers where you can test market interests for your products. IFF’s Seoul exhibition also offers you the opportunity to learn about new target markets and to join the fashion industry and brands to re-establish fur and leather as an integral part of fashion, which is beneficial and key to business growth.
Would you like to take part as an exhibitor? Application process to join as exhibitors is now open. We have a very high demand with limited spaces for 2020, should you require an application form please contact me on kmahmood@iftf.com (Miss Kiran Mahmood, IFF Director of Finance)
For any enquiries, please email: info@iftf.com w w w.we a re f u r. c o m