Fur Times: The Spring Edition

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CONTENTS CEO COMMENT FUR & FASHION Spring Furs to Inspire Your Wardrobe The Conde Nast Luxury Conference Sponsored by IFF The Fur Trade – Where a Handshake Means Commitment As Seen in Vogue – Remix Rewards the Best Talents Shop the Fur – Summer Essentials Here Come the Girls – Lumin Yao Fashion News Updates

SUSTAINABILITY FURMARK - Moving Forward the International Mark of Responsible Natural Fur The Rising Environmental Consciousness within the Fashion Industry

REGIONAL UPDATES Europe Asia Eurasia Americas

CEO comment

For years, animal activist groups have been propagating lies that the fur trade skins animals alive. We, inside the fur trade, know this LV FRPSOHWH QRQVHQVH KRZHYHU QRZ ZH KDYH ƬOP HYLGHQFH WKDW WKH VNLQQLQJ DOLYH ƬOP XVHG WR SXVK WKH DQLPDO ULJKWV DJHQGD ZDV LQ fact set up by activists who paid two men in rural China to carry out WKLV KRUULƬF DFW So, we have produced a short documentary telling the real story behind this lie which I urge you to watch and share with anybody who continues to make false claims against us, and about the fur trade skinning animals alive. It’s not an easy subject to discuss, but sadly many people have been misled into believing this baseless SURSDJDQGD ,WoV WLPH WR ƬJKW EDFN DQG WHOO WKH WUXWK You can access our video with this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8lZQnTbn-A&feature=youtu.be

With regards, Mark Oaten. CEO, International Fur Federation

Mix Tigrado & Spanish Merino Nayarit Coat by Sprung Freres

Mink Birds & Stripes Carmen Coat by Sprung Freres

Four Seasons Jacket - AIR by Bewitched Couture Four Seasons Bag - PEONY by Bewitched Couture

Freya Dress by Kopenhagen Fur x Freya Dalsjø

Mink Cap by Jonevon Furs Freya Seal Jacket Kopenhagen Fur x Freya Dalsjø

(left) Pink Dyed Mink Jacket by Kopenhagen Fur x Alice Mccolm (right) Knitted Fox Jacket by Pologeorgis

Velour Hat with Mink Pom Pom by Jonevon Furs

NAFA Black Mink Coat with Sequins by Oscar de la Renta

FUR&FASHION

THE NATURE The Lookout V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, South Africa

(left to right) Naomi Campbell, Model & Actress Jonathan Newhouse, Chairman at Condé Nast International Marco Bizzarri, CEO at Gucci

(left to right) Suzy Menkes, Editor at Vogue International. Christopher Raeburn, Creative Director at Raeburn & Timberland. Sylvie Benard, Environment Director at LVMH. Jochen Zeitz, Co Founder and Co Chair at Zeitz MOCAA. Jo-Ann Strauss, Moderator

Sponsorship Gifts by Kopenhagen Fur

(left to right) Thomas Wong, IFF Board Member Tom Junkersdorf, Editor in Chief at GQ Germany

Fur Now AD in Condé Nast Booklet

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n the 10th of April, pioneers and industry leaders gathered together in Cape Town for the annual Condé Nast International Luxury Conference. Over two days, Condé Nast explored the nature of luxury and sustainability. The big questions of our generation were widely discussed by key speakers, such as very special guests Naomi Campbell, Sylvie Benard – Environment Director at LVMH, Laudomia Pucci – Deputy Chairman and Image Director at Emilio Pucci, Marco Bizzarri – CEO at Gucci, Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi – CEO at Salvatore Ferragamo, Rosario Perez – Member of the Board of Directors at Kering Foundation and many more. Again this year, the programme for the event was curated by the world’s best-known fashion journalist, Suzy Menkes, who provoked and inspired more than 450 top leaders with a valuable and worthwhile experience with in-depth interviews and vibrant discussions around conscious consumerism, transparency, sustaining craftsmanship, and sustainable luxury.

FUR&FASHION

OF LUXURY

CONDE NAST CONFERENCE Sponsored by IFF

Suzy Menkes Limited Edition Book

Naomi Campbell Model & Actress

Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi CEO at Salvatore Ferragamo

(left to right) Suzy Menkes Naomi Campbell Marco Bizzarri

(right) Christiane Arp, Editor In Chief at Vogue Germany

(left to right) Jean-Pierre Rouphael, Fashion Director at IFF Marina Kerkenzova, Communications Manager at IFF

(left to right) Tia Matthews, Fashion Business Director at SAGA Furs Ann Cormack, Executive Head HR at De Beers Group

Fur Now AD in Suzy Menkes Limited Edition Book

(left to right) Tia Matthews, Fashion Business Director at SAGA Furs Suzy Menkes Mascot, Little Suzy Julie Maria Iversen, VP Design & Creativity at Kopenhagen Fur

As part of IFF’s sponsorship of the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference, the IFF logo was visible on the stage during all panel GLVFXVVLRQV LW ZDV SULQWHG LQ DOO RI WKH HYHQWV PDUNHWLQJ PDWHULDOV DQG IHDWXUHG RQ WKH &RQGÄ 1DVW RƯFLDO ZHEVLWH QHZVOHWWHU information board, as well as the back-drop wall. A goodie bag was distributed to guests contained furry gifts by Oh! By Kopenhagen Fur, thanks to exclusive sponsorship by Kopenhagen Fur, along with a beautiful brand awareness raising note and a Natural Fur Responsible Choice brochure, all of which did much to spread the word that natural fur is beautiful and sustainable. 7KH FRQIHUHQFH SURYLGHG JXHVWV JUHDW RSSRUWXQLWLHV WR QHWZRUN ZLWK D KLJK SURƬOH OLVW RI JXHVWV IURP WKH IDVKLRQ LQGXVWU\ $PRQJVW attendees were representatives from Kopenhagen Fur, Saga Furs, IFF board member Thomas Wong as well as IFF Fashion Director Jean-Pierre Rouphael and IFF Communications Manager Marina Kerkenzova.

FUR&FASHION

THE FUR An industry where A hand I

come from a family of furriers with a tradition of more than 80 years. Back in the day, people used to take young apprentices to their workshops where they taught them how to perform a profession. In 1938, my grandfather started working as an apprentice at his brother-in-law’s workshop, and after a few years he learnt the secrets of this ancient occupation. After marrying my grandmother, he became her tutor and they worked together until he died. My father received knowledge from his family; he learned how to stitch, stretch and sew. He took his legacy further by opening a small shop which has become the most notorious fur brand in Romania. From when I was a child, I had the opportunity to attend MIFUR with my father, an exhibition that holds together all-important names in the fur industry. It’s where designers and retailers show their latest pieces, skin wholesalers display pelts, some companies sell machines and tools used for cleaning, stretching, ironing and for other processes, along ZLWK DFFHVVRULHV DQG SDFNDJH VHOOHUV (VVHQWLDOO\ DW 0,)85 \RX FDQ ƏQG HYHU\WKLQJ UHODWHG WR WKH IXU LQGXVWU\ :KHQ , ƏUVW YLVLWHG WKH H[KLELtion, I expected to see my father acting the way a businessman would in movies, signing contracts and discussing deals. I thought that I would be surrounded by sober people dressed up in suits. From the moment I walked in, I saw my father hugging two Italians that were speaking fast, joking and laughing, leaving me with the impression that they were old friends. After another prolonged hug, the joyful men left. I asked my IDWKHU ZKR WKH PHQ ZHUH p2OG VXSSOLHUVq KH UHSOLHG :H PDGH RXU ƏUVW stop at a German company, where a cheerful old man hugged us. They started exchanging stories, whilst my father was petting mink skins. During their conversation, two Russians approached us, and one of them proceeded to ask the German man a question. The German then turned to my father, asked him a question and nodded to him right away. After this, he replied back to the Russian woman with a discontent look on his face. I asked my father what happened after we left. He said he would let me know later. We strolled between the booths the whole day, and we were greeted with joy everywhere. At the end of the day, we returned to the old man to say our goodbyes. I didn’t see my father negotiate, sign any contract or act the way I thought a businessman would whilst working. I supposed the only reason he went there was to check how his friends from the industry were doing and to see the latest trends. Surprisingly, I found out that

FUR&FASHION

TRADE; shake means commitment he bought a big amount of merchandise. I asked him how that was possible? I only saw him chatting the whole day, without paying any kind of deposit. He explained that this is how business works in this industry; they don’t need any kind of advance payment or contract. Contracts are useful only when you want to sue someone. In the world of furriers, one’s word is the most valuable asset. In this small world, a simple handshake is enough to buy or to sell a huge amount of goods that can cost thousands and thousands. If you are NQRZQ DV D SHUVRQ RI KRQRXU WKH VHOOHUV ZRQoW QHHG DQ\ NLQG RI RĆŻFLDO assurance as they would know that you would pay them at the right time. No need to sign contracts. It is obvious that if you (a seller) promise someone you’d sell them something, nothing would stop you, no matter whether you’d lose money or not. Honour is the most valuable element in this industry, and once it is lost, you can never regain it. After giving me this lesson, he explained what happened during our day at the exhibition – details that I didn’t understand, even though I was standing right next to him. At the old man’s booth, he was analysing the mink skins, even though at the time, to me, he seemed uninterested. This ZDVQoW WKH FDVH EXW EHFDXVH LW ZDV WKH ĆŹUVW SODFH ZKHUH ZH VWRSSHG DQG he didn’t know the prices of the other exhibitors. The German assured him that the skins had a low price, compared to the other pelts from the fair, so my father blindly agreed to buy them. Meanwhile, the Russians DSSHDUHG DQG RĆŞHUHG WKH *HUPDQ PDQ D SULFH WKDW ZDV KLJKHU WKDQ P\ IDWKHUoV RULJLQDO RĆŞHU +HDULQJ WKDW WKH *HUPDQ DVNHG P\ IDWKHU LI KH VWLOO ZDQWHG WR SD\ s WKH ĆŹUVW SULFH WKDW WKH\ DJUHHG RQ RI FRXUVH , realised why the German man had a disappointed look on his face – my father’s verbal agreement made him lose 6500 euros to the Russians. My father had only said, ‘I’ll buy them.’ No contract, no advance payment, nothing. Because my father didn’t sign any kind of paper, the German was entitled to sell the skins to the Russians, but he didn’t, because he gave his word. My father then told me that he had to buy the skins, even if he FRXOG ĆŹQG WKHP FKHDSHU HOVHZKHUH 2WKHU SHOWV ERXJKW DW WKH IDLU ZHUH acquired the same way – only by verbal agreement. I left the exhibition fascinated by the world of those people of honour, who make their lives easier by respecting verbal agreements, people who are always happy to meet with other people from the industry. It felt like a friendship, more than a dealership. What do they have in common? Fairness, honesty, and the passion they have for their work.

by Bianca Margarit

AS SEEN IN VOGUE ITALIA

Creating “responsible� – in other words, ethical, respectful, and sustainable – items. This was the mandate for contestants of Remix, the competition for young fashion and fur designers organised by the International Fur Federation (IFF) with support from Vogue Talents. The ten finalists presented their pieces on the last day of Milan’s Fashion Week at the exclusive “Carlo e Camilla in Segheria� restaurant and cocktail bar, and this is where the awards ceremony was also held. The Gold Award of this 16th edition of the contest went to Berivan Cemal from the Netherlands. Thanks to the Kopenhagen Fur (KF) prize, Berivan will embark upon a training journey with Kopenhagen Design Studio, where she will be given 25 high-quality KF

mink furs to work with. Coming in second place was HĂźseyin Ă–zer, from Turkey, who will receive an all-expense paid trip to Studio NAFA 2019 in Toronto. China’s Dong Wang won the Saga Furs prize and will spend a week at the Saga Furs Design Center in Vantaa, Finland, taking part in innovative workshops. “We were very proud to have young designers from over 23 countries this year applying to take part in Remix eager to demonstrate how natural fur can be responsible,â€? said IFF CEO, Mark Oaten. “From upcycling to sustaining communities and cultures, to vintage fur and ethical sourcing, the ten finalists presented not only a responsible collection but also a modern, youthful and vibrant vision of the future of fur.â€?

Top. Dresses HĂźseyin Ă–zer (Remix Silver Award winner); leggings Gianluca Capannolo; pumps and ankle boots Casadei. On the left. Overalls and sweater Dong Wang (Saga Furs Award Winner). Opposite page. Coats Berivan Cemal (Remix Gold Award winner) in all the looks. First girl from left. Top, biker shorts and sandals Fendi; leggings Msgm. Second girl. Top Fendi; biker shorts Roberto Cavalli; sandals Prada. Third girl. Top Roberto Cavalli; biker shorts Marcelo Burlon County of Milan. Photos by Martina Giammaria. Styling by Fabio Messana. Styling Assistant Alessio Surace. Make-up Vanessa Geraci @ Aura Photo Agency. Casting Born To Runway.

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FUR&FASHION

LUMIN Y A O T

he Guru has had the pleasure of meeting many fur trade wonder women over the years. Many inspirational women who, with their passion and dedication, elevate the fur industry. And one person who fits this description is the General Manager of China Operations at North American Fur Auctions, Lumin Yao. But what does this demanding role consist of? Rolling up my sleeves to do anything and everything that the job needs me to do, Lumin confesses. I’m compelled to find out more… When Lumin first joined the fur trade, the fur industry in China was just taking off. Adopting a supportive role, Lumin was the framework on which promotional campaigns in China and NAFA business development would depend. Lumin gushes, “I still remembered the old days where auction house customers depended on and thanked me for my work… Today, as a person who is in charge of the Chinese market, I am so proud”. As someone who knows very little about the fur market in China, other than its growing at an accelerated and unprecedented rate, Lumin informs me that mirroring a huge market like China is even greater responsibility.

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HERE CO M E THE GIRLS

Lumin delights in the shared determination of everyone at NAFA, and reminisces how she was not the one to “roll her sleeves up”. In fact, then President and CEO, Mr. Herman Jansen, would kneel down and pack the models’ high heel shoes in order to help us quick pack.” Lumin confesses, That’s NAFA. We worked hard, we worked like family and we were not afraid of challenges and difficulties. At a time when competition from the other auction houses was rife, and NAFA was the smallest auction house on the global stage, what Lumin and NAFA lacked in assets, they made up for in creativity and passion. The goal has always been trying to face all the challenges and do our best. That’s why I love NAFA – I felt lucky that I could join a company like NAFA, we took care of each other, supported each other. And when we worked together, we tried to achieve the best result. Stories like this – I think that’s why NAFA has become stronger and stronger after all these years. I was happy that I was part of this history to witness how NAFA is getting stronger and how Chinese fur industry is getting stronger. Lumin’s front line experience of witnessing the fur trade growing isn’t reflected in the media. In fact, with designers going fur-free, Lumin’s account couldn’t be more diametrically opposed. But what does a key player and pillar within one of the globes biggest fur auctions have to say to apathetic people pushing for fur bans? Something which threatens Lumin’s livelihood.

FUR&FASHION

A GRASSROOTS POWERHOUSE All these years, I have heard many stories that the anti-fur people attacked our trade by creating untrue reports such as killing the seals and killing the raccoons. And the fur industry responded too late or too slowly, and then we suffered huge loss to the public influence. Now fur bans is another round of attacks on us, which has caused the industry more loss. We have lost many leading brands and we shouldn’t let this continue to happen. That’s why I totally support that the whole industry should work together and act together under the leadership of IFF as quickly as possible. A Chinese saying is: it will never be too late to amend, if we lose one sheep, it will never be too late to mend the sheep pen to avoid more loss. We should have learned enough from the previous experiences and to protect our industry in the future. If we continue to think that this is something that other people will do and just wait, we will lose at the end. Right now, IFF’s FurMark project would like to work with ranchers, auction houses, dressers, manufacturers and retailers together, which is the big direction for us to follow and work together. Transparency, traceability and sustainability should be key words for us to share with our public. I like to finish off all my special Here Come the Girls features with a quote, so, Lumin, is there a quote you remember when times get tough or to motivate you? Right now, as Diane Benedetti, my previous boss and mentor, keeps telling me: Hang in there. Everything will be fine.

“I think that Chinese fashion will have its own position in the world, just like other industries, it’s China vs world.”

“Transparency, traceability and sustainability should be key words for us to share with our public.” by FUR GURU

FUR&FASHIONNEWS Fu r Su ppo rters Plan to Keep Fi ghti n g N ew Yo rk City’s Pro posed Ban o n Fu r Sales @WWD @WWD Kinya - WWD

Fur industry advocates plan to continue to turn up the heat on the New York City Council, in response to its proposal for a bill that would ban the sale of fur apparel. Nancy Daigneault, vice president of the Americas for the International Fur Federation, said Friday that a number of furriers and other fur advocates have met with their UHVSHFWLYH FRXQFLO PHPEHUV DQG KDYH FRQWDFWHG WKHLU RĆŻFHV “In the last week, furriers have been picking up the phone and calling themselves and meeting with City Council members in their district, RU VRPHWLPHV VWDĆŞ LI WKH PHPEHUV DUHQoW DYDLODEOH q VKH VDLG p:HoUH hopeful that the city will listen that it’s an ill-conceived ban. It will shut down thriving businesses, small businesses, multigenerational ones. It is a very important industry in New York, it has a long track record. We’ve provided jobs for years and years and years, and tax revenue. This is an invented problem. We want to protect these jobs. New <RUNHUV ZDQW OHDGHUV WR ĆŹ[ UHDO SUREOHPV DQG QRW FUHDWH QHZ RQHV and not be playing the role of fashion police and getting in the way of consumer choice. We should have the freedom to choose what we can and cannot buy.â€?

To continue reading, scan the barcode or visit the link: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/ IXU VXSSRUWHUV SODQ WR NHHS ĆŹJKWLQJ QHZ \RUN FLW\V -proposed-ban-on-fur-sales-1203100154/

C i ty C o u n c i l wa r o n fu r i s a wa r o n s m a l l b i z @NEWYORKPOST Shutterstock - WWD

City Council Speaker Corey Johnson and his colleagues are trying to put my family’s 60-year-old fur company out of business — and our 150 workers out of their jobs. The speaker has introduced legislation to ban the sale and manufacture of fur, one of New York’s oldest industries and one that still provides hundreds of millions of dollars of revenue to the Big Apple, through good times and bad.According to the Fur Information Council of America, there are more than 130 fur businesses in New York City, providing more than 1,000 direct jobs. We serve a growing and diverse EDVH RI FXVWRPHUV ZKR FRPH IURP DFURVV WKH ƏYH ERURXJKV WKH VWDWH WKH FRXQWU\ — and the world. The council’s legislation would bar all of these businesses from operating in New York. If Johnson cares about what his ideas would mean to the lives of real people, he doesn’t show it. To continue reading, scan the barcode or visit the link: https://nypost.com/2019/04/04/city-council-war-on-fur-is-a-war-on-small-biz/

Th e hypocrisy o f th e fash i o n pack @UNHERD

Fur, though, will last a lifetime, or two. I should know: I have one made in the Fifties. It’s closer to my mum’s age than mine. It’s dealt with rain and snow. I’ve slept in it a few times. It’s still in great shape. A coat made from the pelts of the many many thousands of culled coyote, say, is about as sustainable as it gets. What else to do with the pelts? Throw them in a pit? In the meantime we are free to buy as much virtue-signalling clothing made from recycled plastic bottles as we wish, perched atop our moral high JURXQG FODG LQ RXU PLFURƏEUH VKHGGLQJ JDUPHQWV To continue reading, scan the barcode or visit the link: https://unherd.com/2019/04/the-hypocrisy-of-the-fashion-pack/

Archive photos / Stringer via Getty

Lagerfeld’s attitude to fur was pragmatic. “I hate the idea of killing animals in a horrible way,� but, “as long as people eat meat and wear leather, I don’t get the message.� Even sober broadsheets will spin the fur-banning stories for maximum drama.

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FURMARK Moving forward the international mark of responsible natural fur The International Fur Federation (IFF) is making good progress with the implementation of FURMARK: an independHQW ZRUOG FODVV FRPSUHKHQVLYH FHUWLƬFDWLRQ DQG WUDFHDELOLW\ SURJUDP WKDW FRYHUV VXVWDLQDELOLW\ DQLPDO ZHOIDUH DQG transparency at all stages of the fur supply chain. )850$5. FRPSULVHV WKH IROORZLQJ ZHOIDUH SURJUDPV 6DJD &HUWLƬFDWLRQ E\ )LQQLVK 6WDQGDUGV :HO)XU 1RUWK $PHULcan Farm-raised, North American Wild Fur, Russian Sable, and Swakara. Dressing and Dyeing is also part of the FURMARK program and the IFF has been working closely with the International Fur Dressers and Dyers (IFDDA). 7KH ,)) LV PRQLWRULQJ WKH SURJUHVV RI HDFK SURJUDP DQG KDV FRQGXFWHG ƬHOG YLVLWV LQ VRPH LQVWDQFHV ZLWK EUDQGV WR ensure they are on-track for 2020. 7R HQVXUH WKDW WKHVH FHUWLƬHG IXUV FDQ EH PRQLWRUHG FRUUHFWO\ DV WKH\ PRYH WKURXJK WKH VXSSO\ FKDLQ WKH ,)) LV working with ChainPoint, leading experts in textile traceability, in developing a traceability system that is currently EHLQJ WHVWHG DFURVV WKH ƬYH PDMRU DXFWLRQ KRXVHV ,)''$ PHPEHUV DQG WDUJHWHG PDQXIDFWXUHUV 7KH DLP LV WR UXQ the traceability system through to retail level providing the level of transparency and assurance needed when purchasing natural fur. 7KH ,)) LV DOVR HQJDJLQJ D OHDGLQJ LQWHUQDWLRQDO DXGLWLQJ ƬUP VR WKDW WKH\ FDQ KDYH IXOO RYHUVLJKW RI WKH )850$5. program and provide an open and transparent independent third-party assessment. In order to support retail and consumer roll-out of the FURMARK program, the IFF has commissioned extensive retail and consumer insights work which so far has demonstrated strong support for the program. These insights will support how FURMARK is communicated at the point of sale. FURMARK governance is critical, therefore an overarching steering group comprised of industry representatives and brands has been convened, alongside dedicated sub-groups exploring areas such as program development, communications and traceability. )850$5. LV D FRPPLWPHQW WR SURYLGLQJ ZRUOG FODVV ZHOIDUH SURJUDPV WUDFHDELOLW\ DQG LQGHSHQGHQW YHULƬFDWLRQ The IFF is committed to delivering this program in 2020. Our commitment to Sustainability Awareness, Accountability and Action - these are the ways to address sustainability. Natural fur is inextricably linked to nature and so for the fur industry sustainability is a necessity. It is not a nice to have, but a must have. IFF together with FUR EUROPE is working to formulate a sustainably strategy that will be launched in Autumn 2019. We consider it vital to tackle the issue holistically, therefore we take a three-pronged approach: good for welfare, good for the environment and good for people. In April and May, the IFF and Fur Europe will reach out to those across the supply chain with targeted surveys that will help to benchmark and create the baseline for our strategy. The aim is to identify the positive impact the industry is DOUHDG\ PDNLQJ DQG JR IXUWKHU WR GHƬQH VWDQGDUGV IRU LPSURYLQJ LWV VXVWDLQDELOLW\ OHYHO )LQDOO\ WKH VWUDWHJ\ ZLOO UHƮHFW WKH IXU LQGXVWU\oV FRPPLWPHQW WR HQULFKLQJ OLYHOLKRRGV DQG UHVSHFWLQJ KXPDQ ULJKWV ZKLOVW HQVXULQJ EXVLQHVV LQWHJULW\ DFURVV WKH YDOXH FKDLQ 7KH ƬUVW IXOO VXVWDLQDELOLW\ UHSRUW ZLOO EH SXEOLVKHG LQ ZKLFK ZLOO UHSRUW RQ WKH agreed key performance indicators developed under the strategy. In keeping with international best practice, we will align with the Global Reporting Initiative (GRIs) and UN Sustainability Development Goals (SDGs).

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The rising environmental consciousness within the fashion industry.

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he fashion industry is one of the most innovative industries in the world. Ultimately, this means that a large amount of responsibility is needed to ensure that the entire supply chain, and we, consumers, are protecting the environment. The fashion industry is taking a serious approach to sustainability, and rightly so. Albeit demanding, many luxury brands now have programmes to help ensure that they are doing the upmost to guarantee that they are becoming more environmentally-aware. As we develop our environmental consciousness as a society, we are becoming increasingly aware of the harmful consequences of fast fashion. And as a result, sustainability strategies are now commonplace. Consumers want to be able to trust that retailers, big and small, are serious when it comes to responsible fashion. However, while sustainability appears to have only entered the zeitgeist in the last few years, the fur industry has been sustainable for decades if not centuries. In fact, the fur trade continues to pave the way when it comes to sustainable fashion. Foremost, the fur industry recognises that natural fur is inextricably linked to nature meaning sustainability is inherent. Nonetheless, the fur industry doesn’t stop there, it’s in the process of developing an industry-wide global sustainability strategy. One which will tackle issues holistically taking a three-pronged approach: good for welfare, good for the environment and good for people. These three pillars will comprise the fur industry’s sustainability in Autumn 2019 with a full report the following year.

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Animal welfare and sustainability are the top priorities for the fur industry. FURMARK sets high standards and ensures that each step of the production process meets strict, globally recognised standards of animal welfare and sustainability.” – Paul Stockall, Director of Standards & Sustainability at IFF

The strategy means that the industry will continuously assess its impact on the environment, animals and communities, and the annual reports which follows will enable consumers to keep track on whether the industry is living up to its commitments. Daniela Liebetegger, Head of Sustainability at Fur Europe, says that she has “always known about the inherent sustainability qualities of fur. With our industry-wide strategy we are now going to document and work with sustainability in a much more structured way and according to internationally recognized guidelines.” The strategy will assess the sustainability level of the industry and this will set targets to be achieved. Having standards is an imperative tool which allows tangible proof of the accountability of the supply chain. For consumers, it is a guarantee for the product they are purchasing. The fur industry has a positive story to tell and a thorough strategy will allow this; ‘sustainability’, ‘strategy’ and ‘reporting’ are buzz words that the fashion industry are paying attention to. The fur industry has gone even further to ensure its sustainability by developing FURMARK; a global systematic FHUWLƬFDWLRQ SURJUDP ZKLFK RYHUVHHV WKH IXU WUDGHV WUDFHDELOLW\ DQG FHUWLƬFDWLRQ )850$5. LV DQ DVVXUDQFH WKDW WKH IXU LQGXVWU\ is striving to further improve the sustainability of the sector.

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Due to this rise of fast fashion culture, clothes are now being discarded faster, as there are new trends every week, with 300,000 tonnes of textiles ending up in landfill – worth £12.5 billion.� – The Times

Paul Stockall, Director of Standards & Sustainability elaborates more on FURMARK explaining that he believes “animal welfare and sustainability are the top priorities for the fur industry. FURMARK sets high standards and ensures that each step of the production process meets strict, globally recognised standards of animal welfare and sustainability. We want everyone to feel FRQĆŹGHQW DQG UHDVVXUHG ZKHQ WKH\ EX\ QDWXUDO IXU 7KLV LV ZK\ WKH FHUWLĆŹFDWLRQ LV DOVR WUDQVSDUHQW WUDFHDEOH DQG ZLOO EH UHDGLO\ accessible.â€? The program will be implemented through a standardize traceability system that links various processes through each stage in the fur supply chain. Under the program, the highest welfare and environmental standards are ensured thanks to the 3 key principles followed: science-based, independent inspection, transparency. The FUMARK program draws WRJHWKHU GHYHORSLQJ LQGHSHQGHQWO\ YHULĆŹHG FHUWLĆŹHG SURJUDPV under one umbrella. It will ensure alignment between regional FHUWLĆŹFDWLRQ SURJUDPV WDNLQJ LQWR DFFRXQW JHRJUDSKLFDO GLĆŞHUHQFHV DQG UHJLRQDO QDWLRQDO DQG LQWHUQDWLRQDO requirements. 7KLV ZLOO KHOS WR VHW LQWHUQDWLRQDO VWDQGDUGV WKDW UHĆŽHFW WKH ORFDO reality and identity. FURMARK will become the international mark of responsible and sustainable natural fur. It means that, IURP ZKHQ \RX EX\ )850$5. FHUWLĆŹHG IXU \RX DUH guaranteed the highest standards of sustainability and animal welfare were met throughout the supply chain. Under the FURMARK programme, all stages of the supply chain are a part RI FRPSUHKHQVLYH WUDQVSDUHQW DQG LQGHSHQGHQWO\ YHULĆŹHG traceability systems. The wild fur programs are subject to a wide-ranging system of laws, regulations, checks and controls. 6DJD &HUWLĆŹFDWLRQ LQFOXGHV WKH SULQFLSOHV IRU DGYDQFHG DQLPDO health and welfare; conditions for rearing animals; farm hygiene; environmental management; and for training and SUHSDULQJ IRU H[FHSWLRQDO VLWXDWLRQV )850$5. FHUWLĆŹHG dressing and dyeing are committed to using chemicals from an DJUHHG OLVW WKLV VDWLVĆŹHV ODERUDWRU\ YHULĆŹFDWLRQ UHTXLUHPHQWV and government oversight on the environmental footprint of their factories. The direct link of consumers impacting and harming the planet must be acknowledged as fast fashion infamously damages and deconstructs the planet, as well as the animals in other ways. Instead of a spring, summer, autumn and winter collection, a season has now become a new week, which ultimately means that clothes are being produced, quicker, lower-priced, and undoubtedly due to the poor quality, continues to harm the ecosystem.

sustainablefur Due to this rise of fast fashion culture, clothes are now being discarded faster, with 300,000 tonnes of textiles ending up in ODQGĆŹOO s ZRUWK ~ ELOOLRQ DV UHSRUWHG E\ 7KH 7LPHV $QG WKDWoV MXVW LQ %ULWDLQf *OREDOO\ PDNH WKHLU ZD\ WR ODQGĆŹOOV Plastic products in fast fashion, most notably acrylic, which according to a report by the European Commission, had the worst environmental impact in 2014, which is neither good for welfare, good for the environment or good for people; three of the essence pillars for sustainability. Consumers are becoming passive buyers who are chasing the fantasy of ‘buying more clothes will make me happier.’ This fast fashion phenomenon is the foremost reason that brands need to embrace a sustainability strategy. Sustainability begs the question, how do we as consumers consider our relationship to nature, and about the ethics of our actions. In more recent times, sustainability has become a core GLĆŞHUHQWLDWRU DQG D NH\ HOHPHQW WKDW FRQVXPHUV ORRN IRU ZKHQ deciding between brands. To know where a garment has come from, and the history behind its production attempts to answer how important our relationship with nature actually is. Consumers, especially millennials and Gen Z, are slowly picking XS DQG EHFRPLQJ PRUH DZDUH RI KRZ IDVW IDVKLRQ DĆŞHFWV WKH planet, and how brands can ultimately improve to help ensure that sustainability is at the core of their collections. In general, the fashion industry isn’t an industry that people immediately assume is a pollutant one, let alone the second largest polluter in the world, and in many cases, people don’t take into consideration the environmental impacts of fast fashion. Everybody is responsible for contributing to vast change in the environment, and it takes the change of people to really work towards a more sustainable fashion future. Kering’s FKLHI VXVWDLQDELOLW\ RĆŻFHU 0DULH &ODLUH 'DYHX PDNHV DQ imperative note on sustainability saying that there is a ‘less visceral sense of duty’ where people don’t immediately detect a direct link with themselves to the textile industry. For the fur industry, having a sustainability strategy is extremely important. ,W DOORZV FRQVXPHUV WR IHHO FRQĆŹGHQW LQ SXUFKDVLQJ WKHLU IXU garment and know the cycle that it has taken for it to get to them. It provides proof and guarantee that the highest standard of sustainability and animal welfare were met, which gives consumers the assurance that the furs that they are buying are in conjunction to their increasing sustainability expectations for their awareness of the environment. FURMARK and the sustainability strategy are imperative to have for a greener, more sustainable future. The world is waking up and coming to the realisation that sustainable fashion is the only way forward to ensure that we take care of our planet, as well as everything in it.

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