CONTENTS CEO COMMENT SUSTAINABLE FUR FUR & FASHION IFF X Vogue in New York Fashion Week London Fashion Week event promoting responsible fur The IFF joins Premiere Vision in Paris Chinese designer Long Chen wins IFF Asia REMIX Furlab Poland x Dorota Goldpoint: a star-studded catwalk A "Natural Wonder" masterclass in Milan Wearefur festive season must-haves IFF launches Fur Talks and Ourvoiceheard.com Susanne Kolb-Wachtel: A Fur Trade Legacy The fashion world at risk of losing its heritage
Coen Carstens: The Creator of a new mink oil based line L’eau Vison
ANIMAL RIGHTS Skinning Alive
MEMBERS UPDATE Jesper Uggerhøj: Thank you and Goodbye Michael Mengar steps down from a CEO role at NAFA
REGIONAL UPDATES Europe Asia Eurasia Americas
BY 2020, THE FURMARK PROGRAM WILL INCLUDE:
Saga Certification By Finnish Standards Dressers & Dyers Certificate covering dressers and dyers of fur across the globe
North American Welfare Mink & Fox Certification Programs in America and Canada
The Furmark Program WelFur European Certification Program for Fox, Mink and Finnraccoon
Wild Fur Programs Covering American and Canadian Wild Fur
Sable
Swakara
CEO comment
I am pleased to report that Furmark was launched to a group of brands in Paris last month. We are now 18 or so months away from start date and a good progress has been made on the seven certiďŹ cation programs that will make up Furmark. The response from brands has been strong with a number committing themselves to only working with furs that are part of the program. It’s important that the fur trade fully supports this so please check out the website at Furmark.com and take a look at the diagram on the left to see what’s included. May I wish you all a good selling period and a Happy Christmas! With regards, Mark Oaten. CEO, International Fur Federation
sustainablefur
Fashion Sector Sustainability – What it means for fur and how we can play our part Paul Stockall Director of Standards & Sustainability
The challenge Sustainability is a hot topic in the world of fashion and the focus is increasing as governments, NGOs and media are asking more and more questions of the sectors response to the global environmental challenge. This ranges from the materials we use and how we use them to where these products go at the end of the life-cycle. They, and increasingly the consumer also want to know whether there are opportunities to do things differently to show the fashion sector is responsible and ultimately sustainable. The Fashion industry’s response IFF recently attended Textile Exchange’s conference in Milan where 800 professionals from across the fashion and textile industry met to discuss ways in which individually and collectively steps are being taken to change the way we use resources whether natural or synthetic. There is clearly a lot of focus on moving away from the linear economy, where fashion materials are simply ending up on landfill, to a more circular approach, where materials are recycled or upcycled. A number of fast fashion brands are clearly under the spotlight but are keen to demonstrate their environmental credentials but this appears to present real challenges to their existing business models. These are areas where the natural fur sector has a good story to tell, yet it is extremely frustrating that some fashion brands have moved away from natural fur citing sustainability as a key issue. How is the fur sector responding? It is vitally important that the fur sector looks at the issue holistically rather than focus on single issues. Therefore, the IFF and Fur Europe have been working with leading sustainability consultancy BSR to deliver a broad and effective sustainability strategy for the industry which will be formally launched in early 2019. This strategy focusses on three key pillars 1/ Good for Welfare; 2/ Good for the Environment and 3/ Good for People. These pillars are underpinned by a series of actions that the sector is driving forward. It will also closely align with the UN’s Sustainability Development Goals on which other sectors also base their approaches. Looking at the three pillars individually, the welfare programs that the fur sector has developed over a number of years are clearly demonstrating our commitment to independent and robust scientific standards. These various programs are brought together under the FURMARK program which will be launched in 2020 but we are already trailing now. The environmental story is also positive with a number of recently commissioned scientific studies demonstrating the biodegradability of natural fur, its comparably low carbon footprint and the positive messages around longevity and recycling which are part of the fur sector’s rich history. As part of the FURMARK program we are also driving standards in the use of chemicals to ensure the impact on the environment is minimized as well as exploring opportunities to use natural dyeing techniques. Finally, when it comes to people, the fur sector has a strong working relationship with the supply chain from farmer and trapper to the retailer across a number of regions. However, we know that these positive stories are not enough, which is why, with support from third parties such as BSR we can bring this all together to formulate a proper and effective strategy that promotes the positives as well as commit to addressing areas where we believe more work can be done. This process is already bearing fruit, we have now joined Textile Exchange and will be part of specific groups looking at sustainability in fashion. We are looking to join the Sustainable Apparel Coalition in order to become part of the Higg Index which measures the sustainability of textiles. We have also held a number of positive discussions with organisations, such as the Ellen MacArthur foundation who are a key player in driving the circular economy. Looking ahead Whilst the fur sector continues to face many global challenges, we firmly believe that a robust sustainability strategy will deliver a cohesive and coherent approach is already opening new doors to help reposition the sector that will provide many benefits for years to come.
#furnow
ma li n li ndqv i s t FURRIER APPRENTICE AT KOPENHAGEN FUR
FUR&FASHION
IFF x VOGUE
Celebrate Natural Fur During New York Fashion Week
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he International Fur Federation (IFF) and Vogue US showcased the furs of high fashion brands in a natural setting for a six-page advertising campaign in the all-important September issue of Vogue. Featuring the fur designs from Oscar De La Renta, Fendi, Monse, Roberto Cavalli, Carolina Herrera, Brock, and Elie Saab, as well as text promoting natural fur at the same time refuting plastics fur on all layouts, this editorial highlighted the importance of responsible fashion, of which fur is at the forefront.
This advertising campaign was shot by Vogue US creative team and was rolled in eight regions in key months including September, October and November, as well as digitally, with many behind-the-scenes films used for social media. Hosted as Spring Studios, fashion industry guests included Nick Pologeorgis, Dave Sollman, Allen Soifer and Sandy Blye, as well as stylists, editors and influencers, such as Bryan Grey-Yambao, Ezra Williams, Alexa Dell, Tina Craig, and Caitlyn Warakomski, all of which made this fur fashion event a stylish affair. A special photo-booth meant guest could try on a range of furs loaned to the event by industry members, with many of the influencers in attendance posting their fur photos to their 400,000 plus followers.
Complimenting IFF’s fur fashion advertising campaign, which was featured in Vogue magazines around the world, including France, Italy, Germany, Russia, Korea and China was IFF and Vogue’s invitation-only private lunch during NYFW.
FUR&FASHION
London Fashion Week Event Dedicated to Responsible Fashion & Fur
IFF x T
he 39th bi-annual issue of POP Magazine, the all-important Autumn/Winter September issue, featured a sixteen-page editorial campaign by the International Fur Federation (IFF). The campaign is a hybrid of world-recognised high-fashion labels including, Dsquared2, Missoni, Chloé, Dior, Saint Laurent, Hermès, Roberto Cavalli, Holland and Holland, as well as IFF’s British Fur Trade members, such as Yves Salomon, Rebecca Bradley and Rachel London. One of the fashion industry’s biggest up-and-coming models Daniela Kocianova, a favourite of Céline and Victoria Beckham, is the only featured face in the sixteen-page editorial which was shot by world-renowned fashion photographer Jeremy Everett. The campaign was placed in print and online editions of POP Magazine which is published all around the world. IFF and POP Magazine’s collaboration continued into London Fashion Week where together they hosted a dinner on September 15, 2018. A collection of the fashion industry’s biggest influencers, models, and editors gathered at Somerset House in central London to celebrate fur as ‘The Responsible Choice’ in association with the British Fur Trade. After a speech by Pop Magazine owner and editor in chief Ashley Heath and British Fur Trade Association Director Frank Zilberkweit, guests debated and explored Natural fur vs. fake and considered the sustainability and environmental issues that challenge the fashion industry.
FUR&FASHION
The IFF Joins Premiere Vision in Paris For the first time ever, the IFF exhibited at the world’s largest fashion trade show
Premiere Vision, the world’s largest bi-annual fashion trade show, returned to Paris-Nord Villepinte on September 19-21, 2018. For three-days nearly 60,000 fashion professionals (approximately 18,000 each day) got to meet exclusively with brands while searching for next seasons fabrics, designs and inspirations. This included buyers, designers, manufactures and business owners, all of which got to communicate directly with the International Fur Federation (IFF), whose 30-square meter stall positioned in the Leather Hall promoted and represented the fur trade industry supply chain.
IFF CEO Mark Oaten held interviews on the stand on the opening day of the exhibition with 4 key media; the Fashion Network, Journal du Textile, Vogue France and WWD discussing advancements in the industry’s certification and traceability under the FURMARK program. He also provided current updates from the latest campaign and news around fur and fur fashion. As well as showcasing the natural furs of three of IFF’s auction houses; Kopenhagen Fur; NAFA and SAGA Furs on three mannequins and two clothing rails; IFF’s earthy and modern white and wooden stall communicated their message: fur is sustainable, responsible, and modern material, clearly. IFF’s FUR NOW 2018 campaign also attracted visitors to their stall who were keen to engage with the campaigns slogan: ‘WHY NATURAL FUR? Young Creative Talents Explain.” This poster, as well as demonstrations of the industry’s latest techniques from fur designer and manufacturer Rebecca Bradley, on Allbook Hasfield speciale fin machine – one of Louis Vuitton’s original sewing machines, attracted many young design students from all around the world. IFF’s stall was supported by large TV screens playing IFF’s 8 Fur Now films, their ‘Natural versus Plastics’ and Vogue campaign. Additionally, IFF’s six-page editorial in the September issue of American Vogue and their sixteen-page editorial in the Autumn/Winter issue of POP Magazine were on display and used by IFF’s team to engage in educational debates about how fur is still a popular material with high-fashion designers and magazines.
FUR&FASHION
ASIA REMIX is an annual natural fur design competition hosted by the International Fur Federation (IFF), dedicated to discovering, nurturing and showcasing the creations of young, up-and-coming designers from all over Asia, including China, Korea, Japan and Taiwan. Fourteen ďŹ nalists selected from total of 6,000 applicants from around Asia produced and showcased their natural fur garments which were carefully judged and scored by an esteemed International Jury Panel. This included: Ms. EunYoung Sohn, Fashion Director at Vogue Korea; Mr. Sheguang Hu, Famous Designer Founder of ‘Sheguang Hu’ Brand, Design Director of HU Fur Co., Ltd. (Italy); Ms. Jisoo Ha, Korean fashion designer & Professor of Seoul National University; Mr. Hirohisa Hattori, Chairman of Japan Fur Federation, President of Nichiro Fur Co. Ltd; Ms. Hyejin Hong, Korean fashion designer, the creative director of “THE STUDIO Kâ€? and CEO of ARTISTMADE Inc.; Ms. Samantha Vesala, Global Business Director of Asia for Saga Furs, Mr. Mountain Yam, famous Hong Kong designer and Ms. Yenline Hsu, Renown Taiwanese Designer. Women’s wear designer Long Chen from China was the Grand Prize winner, and has earned an automatic entry to the Global Remix 2019 which will take place during the Milan Fashion Week on February 24, 2019. Long Chen, said in his acceptance speech, “I’m grateful for everyone involved in making this opportunity possible. I’m very excited about taking part in the Global Remix 2019 for which I will advance my design further to be even more innovative.â€? As well as Grand Prize winner Long Chen, ďŹ ve other winners were selected in the following categories: 1.Future Star Design Award (Sponsored by IFF) Hui Yan Nam (Hong Kong) VTC, HKDI Supporting Company : Hong Kong Fur Factory Ltd. 2. Eco Chic Design Award (Sponsored by IFF) Tian Lan (China) Changchun University of Technology Supporting Company : Huasi Holding Company Ltd. 3. Creative Design Award (Sponsored by NAFA) Yugen Kondo (Japan) Nagoya Fashion School Supporting Company : Ohtsuya Co., Ltd. 4. Best Design Award (Sponsored by SAGA Furs) HyeonJeong Choi (Korea) Suncheon University Supporting Company : Dongwoo Fur 5. Grand Prize Award (Sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur & IFF) Long Chen (China) Wuhan Textile University Supporting Company : Huasi Holding Company Ltd.
The event was comprised of three-parts, including Asia Remix, which provided a variety of great shows for the audience. The second part for the show saw Alexander King Chen, a designer beloved by celebrities from China and Taiwan, incorporate a “story-telling� performance inspired by his own identity and heritage to present his collection. For this show, Alexander King Chen worked hand in hand with Korea’s top beauty and artistic make-up team, headed by hairstylist O Min, to create a collaborative show that garnered great acclamation from the audience. Additionally, this year, The Studio K’s designer Hong Hye-jin, renowned for an R&D approach to fashion which incorporates science and technology into its collection each season, also showcased at Asia Remix.
FUR&FASHION
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Dorota Goldpoint put on a star-studded catwalk with chic furs
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n October 12, 2018, Polish fashion designer Dorota Goldpoint hosted a fur-filled fashion show in Warsaw, Poland, for 360 guests in collaboration with FurLab Poland. Dorota Goldpoint is foremost a fashion designer and the Creative Director at FurLab Poland – an organisation which offers fur courses, workshops and sponsorships to students and designers who work with fur. FurLab Poland’s mission is to push artistic boundaries to the limits and encourage innovative ways of designing and creating with fur, it is an organisation which has supported Dorota throughout the production of her latest fashion collection titled: “Desire for Freedom”. One of Poland’s annual premiere events, Dorota Goldpoint’s fashion show was attended by Poland’s most famous celebrities, with movie and theatre actress Grażyna Szapołowska leading the pack. The press, media outlets, and multiple television crews covered the show, including popular television show “The Life Style” which broadcasted a series of positive interviews with celebrities and stylist regarding natural fur. Dorota Goldpoint, Polish Fashion Designer of the Year (2018), stated, “I was and will always be loyal to the use of natural fabrics; including natural fur among others.” All guests were greeted by a red carpet lined with paparazzi, with the most famous faces in attendance posing for photos in front of a media wall branded with Dorota Goldpoint and FurLab Poland logos. The fashion show was a fur-filled display. A fogged runway was lit by spotlights and carved with ice sculptures which set the scene perfectly for Dorota’s fur garments. In total, there were ten full-fur looks out of the shows forty-six total looks, which does not include the fur trim and accessories on display. Altogether, around 70% of total garments included fur in some way. Dorota Goldpoint is a fur activist and political lobbyist within Polish society, frequently dressing the wife of Polish President Agate Duda, she is well-known for her use of natural fur and her shows always receive huge coverage. In fact, based on data from IMM's media monitoring, 345 reports discussed “Dorota Goldpoint”in the 2 weeks surroudning her event. This amount of coverage is great for the fur industry, one which Dorota Goldpoint and FurLab Poland continue to elevate while training many students in Poland to learn the craft of fur.
FUR&FASHION
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‘Natural Wonder’
Masterclass in Milan IFF x Vogue Italia host a craftsman workshop dedicated entirely to fur
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On October 9, 2018, Vogue Italia and the International Fur Federation (IFF) hosted an exclusive masterclass and cocktail party dedicated entirely to fur. The Natural Wonder masterclass was held in one of Milan’s historical districts at Fioraio Bianchi Caffè – a renowned Milanese florist, bar, cafe and cultural hot spot according to WWD, Vanity Fair and Vogue – which still operates a quaint flower shop keeping its heritage alive. This venue complimented the theme, fur: a natural, modern and sustainable material, perfectly. The event consisted of interactive workshops held by two of the fur industries biggest craftsmen who, in an atelier set up, demonstrated the main stages of fur preparation and processing. This was followed by practical demonstrations of sewing techniques which highlighted the craftsmanship and attention to detail involved when working with fur. All guests were invited to get involved with cutting patterns and sewing. Influential members of the fur and fashion industry were in attendance, including editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia Emanuele Farneti, deputy editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia and Head of Vogue Talents Sara Maino, deputy editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia and L’Uomo Vogue Alan Prada, President of AIP Roberto Scarpella, and AIP Managing Director Alessandra Dagnino. These guests were accompanied by ‘Coliac’ designer and brand owner Martina Grasselli, designer Federica Mortetti, and big fashion influencers Emilie Fouilloux and Lola Arrivabene – both of which covered the event live on their social media and posted about it the following days to their combined 134,800 followers. The Natural Wonder masterclass focused on the most advanced techniques involved when working with fur, techniques which many designers have already adopted when producing their latest collections. Among them at the event was designer Cristiano Burani who, along with a host of other talented designers, was chosen because of his ability to interpret and work with fur innovatively. A selection of Burani’s designs were exhibited at the event, along with the creations made by a collection of next generation talents, including Diletta Gallo, Fabiana Migliori, Federica Verrocchio, Francesca Di Pietro, Giovanni Costa and Abiana Migliori. It was exciting for IFF and Vogue Italia to see so many next generation designers creating with fur.
FUR&FASHION
WEAREFUR FESTIVE We bring you the must-have furry picks
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H A RRO D S RA B B I T FU R H O T W A TE R B O TTL E
HARRO DS. CO M
DOLCE & GABBANA LAPIN AND LEATHER STRAP DOLCEANDGABBANA.COM
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P OLOGE ORGI S TH E S OH O F OX A N D S HEA R L IN G S LI P P E R I N B ROWN P OLOGE ORGI S .C OM
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E M I L O U FUR S A TC H E L I N F A LLOW D E E R A N D B L U E LE A TH E R E M I L O U F UR.MY S H OP I F Y .C OM
MISSONI STRIPED MINK FUR JACKET HARRODS.COM
13 LOUI S V U I T T O N M INK AND SHE ARE D M INK DR E AMY S L I P P E RS EU. LOUI S V UI T T O N . C O M
Y VE S S A LOM O N H I GH -TOP B O O T S IN S H E A RLI N G A N D L EA T HER
Y V ES -S A LOM ON .C OM
14 S A K S P OTTS F OX TRI MMI N G F O X Y FO R ES T S A K S P OTTS .C OM
FUR&FASHION
SEASON MUST-HAVES that top our gifting list this season
4 FENDI ICE CREAM MINK FUR CHA RM FENDI.COM
10 MAX MARA FOX FUR EARMUFFS GB.MAXMARA.COM
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MONCLER FUR NECK WARMER STORE.MONCLER.COM
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SIMONET TA RAVIZZA MINK BUBBLE FUR FURRISSIMA CAPS STORE.SIMONETTARAVIZZA.COM
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XLLULLAN BLACK WITH MULTICOLORED FOX FUR COAT XLLULLAN.COM
HARRODS RACOON FUR CHRISTMAS STOCKING HARRODS.COM
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FURS EKATERINA MINK FUR COAT MEXA-EKATERINA.RU
FUR&FASHION
IFF Launches...
On October 18th The International Fur Federation released a weekly series of podcasts as a part of its communication strategy focusing on supporting the fur industry with sharing insights on specific topics and latest news. Fur Talks podcast is a powerful communication format that emphasises the hottest positive and negative up-to-the-minute news from the fur industry, effectively engaging with the listeners. It is the International Fur Federation’s objective to keep informing people about the latest fur news in a modern and digital medium that can be shared across a range of different social media platforms in a quick and efficient manner, making it accessible worldwide. The first few episodes have covered fur related articles from Vogue Italia, Business of Fashion, Cosmo Russia, Daily Mail and Huffington Post as well as an interview update on all things fur with the CEO of the International Fur Federation, Mark Oaten. Starting up a podcast is a modern equivalent of watching the news, or reading a news article, allowing the International Fur Federation’s followers to always be on the top about what is happening around the world that is fur related, in a laid-back, discussion-based, chatty manner. As people have become busier in their everyday lives, it becomes easier to pop on headphones and listen to something whilst commuting to or from work, in the bath or before bed. With the Fur Talks podcast, being kept updated on fur news has never been easier. Stay tuned! To listen, visit the link: https://soundcloud.com/user-34910270
OURVOICEHEARD.COM Ourvoiceheard.com is a web platform which will allow the IFF to drive opinion campaigns to specific recipients. It is a tool which will enable the IFFs large community to mass email and target multiple recipients, or individuals, making their opinion heard. For example, if IFF believe a university is not allowing its young designers the freedom of choice when it comes to their education and creations, allowing them to choose fur for example, IFF can then target the dean of that university directly, simply by obtaining his email, and make our voice heard by mass emailing them through the platform in one click. Ourvoiceheard.com encourages the entire fur community to contribute and make their voice heard through one centralized page with minimal effort. All that is required of recipients is they must fill-out their name and email on the site, and either use the existing text on the page or customize their own if they like to make the message more personal, and simply press send and their opinion will reach the targeted recipient. Ourvoiceheard.com is enabled to run multiple opinion ‘campaigns’ for different causes in parallel. The platform allows the IFF to send over 10,000 emails daily to a specific targeted email of our choice. IFF hope by making mass noise, they will be able to influence the opinions of recipients, at the very least, inform recipients of what the fur industry thinks of their actions. To visit, please visit this link: http://ourvoiceheard.com
FUR&FASHION
Susanne Kolb-Wachtel: A Fur Trade Legacy
After thirty-years in the fur trade, we say thank you and farewell to Susanne Kolb-Wachtel
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fter joining the fur trade in 1989, at a time when the industry was disunited and in need of a strong and unifying voice, no one spoke louder than Susanne Kolb-Wachtel. Not one for cutting ribbons or attending red carpets, and never afraid of a challenge, Susanne adopted a role carved out for someone with ambition and passion. Grabbing the bull by the horns, Susanne has had one mission: to unite the entire fur trade. Susanne describes her longevous career as a synergy of positive and negative experiences. A balance which derives from her dealings with journalists who challenged and supported her, consumers who condemned and praised her, students who questioned and have been educated by her, activists who targeted and intimidated her, and politicians who confronted and endorsed her. No matter the will of Susanne’s friends or foes, she chuckles, there has never been a dull moment in her career. Today, Susanne argues, the fur trade is an unrecognisable landscape from when she first joined almost thirty-years ago. Animal Rights was not mainstream and violent protest were not the norm. In fact, it was five years after Susanne joined, in 1994, that she was introduced to these groups when she was guest panellist on the German TV show “Der heiße Stuhl” (The hot chair). Joined by PETA Germany founder Harald Ullmann, the late renowned Rudolph Moshammer, owner of “Carnaval de Venise”, and Haute Fourrure Percy Mueller, Susanne single-handedly defended the fur trade against Animal Rights which was injected into German public consciousness in front of her very eyes. Subsequently, a flood of shows began saturating German TV all wanting Susanne as a guest, all with the intention of breaking her down. Susanne was the mainstreams gateway into cracking the fur trade, but, “you can’t crack me”, Susanne boasts proudly.
The future, Susanne believes, is not lost. In fact, if the fur trade uses their voice in harmony, then the work of Animal Rights campaigners could still be undone. Susanne protests that intimidation by the antis is a breakdown of democracy, one which can only be challenged with a united voice. Today, the fur trade is a vessel navigating choppy waters. The trade must realise they share the same boat, a large boat with enough room for everyone, and if part of that boat begins to take on water, the entire ship will go down. So, collectivism and unity remains Susanne’s legacy and parting wish with the fur trade. It’s not too late to set sail to a new destination. There is only a future if the fur trade works together. Susanne departs the fur trade on December 31, 2018, exactly thirty-years after joining, feeling fulfilled. She’s loved her job every day and hopes to be remembered for always helping, educating and enlightening others, and forever offering a new lens to view and achieve goals. Susanne’s contribution and resilience has helped steer the fur trade vessel for three-decades. So, while the future for the fur trade must inevitable change hands, we can all be confident with the baton Susanne passes on is one of courage and optimism. On behalf of the entire fur trade, this is not a goodbye, Susanne, this is a thank you.
FUR&FASHION
The fashion world at risk of losing years’ worth of skill and heritage. Craftsmanship was an artistic development of modern art, which originated in Britain and moved towards continental Europe and the US, whereby the arts and crafts movement was predominantly involved with architecture and decorative arts. Craftsmanship is important when it comes to creating with enthusiasm, precision and attention to detail. It is something that takes time to nurture, and is practiced thoroughly, through and through. Thea Larsen, master furrier at Saga Furs describes craftsmanship as “quality, history, respect” whereby Rebecca Bradley of Rebecca Bradley London, sees it as “an art form, it is a quality, it’s a level of production that requires commitment of learning a specialised skill.” Whilst we are living in the modern world, there is a fear of losing craftsmanship. The digital phenomenon surpasses craftsmanship, as fast fashion has become increasingly popular and the machine is replacing the human - we are on the brink of losing a major part of our culture. Fast fashion is produced by ‘people in factories in countries that unfortunately are driven by pressures of price and time, and therefore the craftsmanship element is lost” says Rebecca Bradley. “We are at a breaking point where it can go in two directions. Many want fast fashion but at the same time a safe and healthy planet” Thea comments. In today’s fast fashion world which is consumed with mass-produced garments often made from plastics and synthetics and other oil-based products, it becomes more challenging to find fashion pieces that are made with a conscious and uniquely handcrafted with a personal touch. There is a growing nostalgia for the humane aspect of manufacturing which draws us back to the art of craftsmanship. Craftsmanship as a skill had started many years ago. The process takes years of training and demands an expert eye with precision and personality. There are three prominent components that are acknowledged when it comes to crafting, and they are, consideration to every little detail, the functionality of what is being made, and the longevity. Natural fur is one of those key fashion materials that does not belong to a season, it is handmade, and it has a life line of over 50 years; it epitomizes the arts of craftsmanship. “It takes around three years training to become a furrier” says Thea Larsen. It is a hard-earned skill that requires patience and persistence which makes it all the more precious. People need to see the ultimate craftsmanship that goes behind producing pieces, feel the hard work and emotion that went into making it, and recognise where and how each sourced material was produced. Malin Lindqvist, furrier apprentice from the FUR NOW annual advertising campaign explains the connection a furrier grows while crafting a fur piece “I know that there’s a lot of craft behind it, I know that people work hard to create it. Because it takes a long time to make a fur coat, and that makes me have an emotional attachment to it”.
‘Haute couture’ is the ultimate expression of craftsmanship, it begins with a vision and ends with a masterpiece. Uniquely handmade limited quantity pieces done by an army of artisans give the final haute couture garment its value and price tag. An embellishment of an haute couture piece can take up to 700 hours to produce. “Craftsmanship takes time and companies always have to reach a certain price point’ Thea says, “with haute couture, it’s the craftsmanship first and the price second”. Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent are two major high fashion brands who practice craftsmanship in a superior level. Their artisans keep the tradition of craftsmanship going. Chanel have ten impressive and respected ateliers, such as Lesage and Montex, and are ahead of the game as they dedicate, celebrate and honour their work with a ‘Metiers d’Art’ show every year in appreciation. High end-designer, Yves Saint Laurent, took the world of craft by storm. The Algerian-born 30-year-old gave rise to the cutting-edge culture of artisanship, ultimately when he welcomed Yves Saint Laurent in 1961. Christian Berard’s creation of sets and costumes in theatre ultimately inspired Saint Laurent and ignited a passion for theatre within him. Fast forward twelve years, and Saint Laurent is now one of the biggest luxury fashion houses, with great emphasis on craftsmanship. Craftsmanship is much more than meets the eye. The dedication, hard work and amount of time that is taken into producing pieces needs to be acknowledged. This skill is vital in creating pieces that are environmentally sustainable, has longevity, and most of all looks fabulous, like natural fur. Craftsmen “need to educate the consumer more, especially on the costs of fast fashion to people and environmental impacts” says Rebecca Bradley. Losing a 100-year-old tradition which is used by some of the world’s biggest and best brands to ‘digital craftsmanship’ of plastic and factories with poor conditions is an enormous loss as it has been put into the hands of an ‘ageing population.’ The International Fur Federation plays a vital role in keeping the crafts going and protecting this skill and tradition. The IFF Fur Futures program funds yearly fur enthusiasts from all corners of the world who want to get involved with the skill of fur providing courses, internships and apprentice programs in leading fur auction and fashion houses. The IFF design competition REMIX provides a platform yearly for a host of young fur artisans who are crafting the fur fashion of the future and compete under the sponsorship of Vogue Italia and Vogue Talent showcasing the latest innovations in modern fur making and supporting those young fur designers through their journey. Finally, the IFF members all around the world are also committed to supporting the skill of craftsmanship and are actively involved with major fashion universities and schools offering educational talks, fur sewing machines and other support initiatives to facilitate and preserve the craftsmanship of fur making. Craftsmanship will survive if it gets passed down from generation to generation, as it is a shared tradition.
# fu r n ow
alexandros kotoulas OWNER & ACCESSORIES DESIGNER AT ALEXQUISITE
COeN CARSTENS: Interview by Anna Scepetilnikova
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udapest, half past eight in the evening. I’ve just arrived at the hotel and despite being absolutely knackered I am heading to the restaurant area to meet and greet some familiar faces from the industry. It’s my third year in the business, and I can already recognise a few people really well. But there is one person I am particularly keen to meet. I have only spoken to him on the phone, but he has already made a great deal of impression on me. His name is Coen Carstens and he is an independent designer and entrepreneur from Amsterdam. Coen creates unique techniques in fur for brands including Versace, Valentino, Schiaoarelli and Viktor & Rolf. His designs and patterns are worn by major stars such as Lady Gaga, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. Bright and artistic, humble and always smiling the designer knows no rest as he is always on the hunt for new ways to promote and use fur products. This time is no different, instead of one thing… Ten years in the business, Coen has decided it’s the right time to try himself out as a beautician, not just a designer. For the first time, he is bringing his unique mink oil line L’eau Vison to the mass market to show that the fur industry is much more than just the skin. -Pleasure to meet you Coen. Can you tell me more about the idea behind this product?
Henri Dekker is an expert in the cannabis business. Henri has 35 years of experience in researching the effects of cannaboides on the human body. His passion for the healing properties of the cannabis plant drives him to find ever new applications to imply these properties into new products. As CBD is taking flight worldwide, it was only logical for us to combine these two ingredients in a brand new cosmetic line. Nowadays, you see a lot of different cosmetics are available on the market, so we really wanted to start a new line with the ingredients that are not necessarily well known, but work really well. That is how the unique combination of mink oil & CBD came together and L’Eau Vison was born. -You are using CBD extract in this product line, which is also widely known as cannabis oil. This is a very controversial product I would say… I don’t think it’s that controversial. I think if you use a plant-based product that supports the human body there is nothing wrong with that. CBD has no psychoactive effects, has great healing properties for humans, and is approved as a safe product for humans by the World Health Organisation. It is made from the Hemp plant, which is different from its illegal sister because it does not contain the psychoactive THC and is therefore legal.
I was thinking about creating my own mink oil line for a while, but in order to launch this project it was necessary to get a few things right. The project came together when I met with Henry Dekker and Ellen Kimman, who have worked on developing cannabis based creams for the last 5 years. I met them at a social and they have instantly fallen in love with my idea of a mink oil based product.
I think we need to make CBD oil more accessible for a bigger consumer market, because people will see the magic it does to their body and the whole controversy will disappear like that.
Ellen Kimman has 40 years of experience as a beautician in the top luxury segment in Holland. Using her yearlong experience in the beauty industry she helped me to develop a serum that does miracles for the skin, hair and nails. Our aim is to launch a product that is a holy grail for people with difficult skin and also those who want to look radiant and fabulous.
We use an animal -based oil instead of a plant- based oil. The mink has a very strong self- regenerating property, so wounds would heal without any type of antibiotics.
-How different is this product to the other products on the market so far?
Th e cr eato r of a n ew m i n k o il based l i n e L’ e a u Vis o n Mink based oil absorbs into the skin very quickly, doesn’t make your skin greasy or oily which is one of the best qualities of the product. The oil can be used for a wide range of products. We start with a night cream, face serum, hair serum, body lotion and hand cream but the possibilities to create new products are endless. -Have you tried the line on yourself? I did, yes. I am a big fan of the hair serum. It really does help me to grow my hair back. My mum has very bad psoriasis and only mink oil seams to ease her problems. -Did you test your products on animals? We wouldn’t do that because we don’t believe in animal testing. Animals should have a good life and we won’t make them suffer in order to create a good product. We are strongly against that. -Where will you be selling L’eau Vison products? We had our first view of the product at the IFF meeting in Budapest. Now we are selling mainly in Holland and are looking for the right partners in the fur industry to sell our products. We launched the product in September and now we need to supply it to the right shops that would be interested in selling it. The high-end luxury shops. We are positioning ourselves in a high segment because we don’t want to make a compromise with the quality of the ingredients.
Only because it was working magic on their skin it was discovered. Otherwise it would have never been used in the beauty market.
I believe the product sells itself and the feedback I get from my customers is very positive. They say that the product actually makes the difference to their skin. We are very confident in our product. Not many people find new initiatives in fur, but it’s important to show that there are always ways of using animal by-products.
I think just mink oil based line for now, because mink has such a strong ability of repairing itself. And that repair ability is the key in cosmetology.
-If you are truthful, then the product can be quite revolutionary…It could put an end to the modern beauty industry Absolutely, that’s why people are surprised. They can actually see how quickly the oil goes into the skin. Let me tell you one fun fact…Farmers don’t usually have soft hands, but in pelting season it changes, as they work with oil all the time.
-Would you want to launch another animal oil based product in the future?
-What do you consider to be important in the beauty business? Transparency. It’s 2018, we have to be honest about everything that we do, so I want to have a full transparency about the ingredients we use. For more information www.leau-vison.com
#fur n ow
malin lindqvist FURRIER APPRENTICE AT KOPENHAGEN FUR
animalrights
skinning alive O
ur fight to kill off this myth has moved into top gear with the appointment of two high grade partners joining us in this important battle. As you are aware, the IFF Director of Communications Neville Thurlbeck travelled to China this year to expose the men taking part in the atrocious video which went viral in 2009. The dossier, including signed affidavits from the men admitting they were bribed by an animal rights movement to discredit our industry, is now in the hands of lawyers. The London legal team, Simons, Muirhead and Burton (SMB) is now representing us on this case. SMB is one of the UK’s top law firms, representing News UK, the biggest media company in the world. They will be assisted by the media relations company Alder, led by Tim Toulmin. Neville Thurlbeck says: “SMB is the go-to law firm in the media industry and Tim is the former Director of the UK’s Press Complaints Commission and has unrivalled media influence. “I have known both parties for many years during my media career and I’m delighted to have secured their services. “The road ahead is by no means certain or clear and there is a legal minefield to negotiate. But we now have the best team and a useful arsenal to defend ourselves, not from the bunker but on the battlefield. “I will update you as we progress.”
ANIMAL RIGHTS
Jesper Uggerhøj - Thank you and Goodbye
Jesper Uggerhøj left his post as a CEO of the Kopenhagen Fur to pursue new opportunities outside the company. Jesper took over the CEO position in 2016 and ever since has been a great leader to many of his employees. Jesper said: “I have received a challenge from Løgismose Meyers that I couldn’t say no to. It has been a pleasure to work at Kopenhagen Fur, which is a fantastic company with dedicated employees and shareholders. With many sustainable qualities, fur is a product that is one of the answers to today’s global challenges. It’s a business with a strong future, and I wish everyone good luck in the years to come.”
Michael Mengar - Steps down from a CEO role at NAFA
Michael Mengar stepped away from the CEO chair after many years of contribution to NAFA. Michael said: “Though it is hard to step away from the CEO’s chair, especially given all of the challenges that the industry currently faces, the time is right for me to hand the reigns of the Company over to new leadership.” He added: “I will also not be leaving NAFA right away. I plan on playing an active role in NAFA as its Managing Director into 2019.” Michael’s career with NAFA spans more than 40 years of dedicated service. Don Boyd, Chair of the NAFA’s Board of Directors, said “I am very appreciative of the work Michael did on behalf of NAFA and our industry. “Michael has been a terrific leader for our organization during a time of great change and challenge in the fur trade.”
regionalupdates
eur ope
No Plans to Ban Fur Trade in the UK UK government doesn’t plan to go ahead with actions to ban fur trade in the country. The decision comes following almost a year-long debate about the fur trade in which BFTA participated proactively by calling for stronger labelling and better enforcement of the rules by Trading Standards. In response to the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs Committee Fur Trade Report, the British Government dismissed the call for a consultation on a trade ban and confirmed that it will not take any further action. “While the UK is a member of the EU it is not possible to introduce restrictions relating to the fur trade which are inconsistent with the Treaty on the Functioning of the EU and which impair the free movement of goods within the EU single market,” stated the Government. Although Brexit and the future trade deal between the UK and the EU might change that, the Government considers that the transparency of information is more important for the consumer than a trade ban. The call for a new fur labelling law to replace the existing one was also dismissed. According to the Government the existing labelling regulation, despite being confusing, provides enough information about the composition of the products consumers buy. All voluntary labelling schemes initiated by the fur sector were also mentioned as a step towards more transparency. The Government will work closely with National Trade Standards and will assess what sanctions should be introduced to prevent breaches of the labelling regulation. Hellenic Fur Federation Challenges Biased TV Programme Hellenic Fur Federation has issued an official complaint to an unfair TV show after the host made a series of negative non-factual comments about fur. Attacking one of the contestants who was wearing fur during the programme, the presenter of the show ‘’My Style Rocks’’ broadcasted on the Greek channel SKAI TV, said that “in this way we are promoting the use of real fur, showing people that it is OK to wear it.” He also said: “It is not OK to wear real fur; there are amazing faux fur garments on the market […] All fashion houses have stopped using real fur; this is 2018 and it is important to convey the right messages.” The statement has prompted Hellenic Fur Federation to send a letter to the producer of the show in which the federation laid out carefully selected factual arguments about the material and its production. The letter also highlights the importance of the sector for the region of Western Macedonia and its contribution to the Greek economy: “The Kastoria – Siatista region has been a centre of fur processing and fur clothing manufacturing since the 13th century. Nowadays, the fur sector employs 65% of the workforce in those areas of West Macedonia Region. On the whole, the fur sector is a mainly exporting sector, both in the manufacturing and processing of fur products and in fur farming, offering in this way multiple benefits to the national economy. The Greek fur sector has proven to be a very effective outward-looking sector with continuous presence and active participation in the foreign markets.’’ Hellenic Fur Federation invited both the presenter and the producer of the programme to Kastoria and Siatista to learn first-hand about the fur sector. Although currently there is no discussion about fur in Greece, Hellenic Fur Federation took the chance to engage proactively and be ahead of the events. As part of the actions, they also organised a seminar “The truth about fur and animal rights’’ which took place in Kastoria at the end of October where local media and authorities were invited.
Asia
On behalf of the Asia Region Board and members, we wish you all a great festive season and Merry Christmas! IFF Asia Region has had a great progress and a successful collaboration with KOLs and celebrities in China as well as Korea. Our special project “Fur Look Book” to dress celebrities and magazines is also having a great success. Asia Remix 2018 took place in Seoul and has drawn many media attention and celebrities’ attendance. One of our well known designers Alexander King Chan was invited by a Master International Designer Hu She Guang to do a joint event with the collection he produced for the Beijing Fashion Week closing show titled “Silk Road. Mother”. WWD Japan has produced a special featured article in November to promote Natural Fur. Korea Natural Fur Design competition and Japan Fur Contest took place in November 2018. Sustainable Fashion talk in Hong Kong among high school students has also been progressing positively. In China, the “Good for Fur” farm certification scheme has started. China Leather will bring third party scientists and officials to go to registered farms to evaluate them in November and December.
regionalupdates
eura sia
Import Customs Duties on Raw and Dressed Fur Skins in Eurasian Economic Union (Russia, Belorussia, Kazakhstan, Armenia and Kyrgyzstan) are nullified. On September 7, 2018, by the Board of the Eurasian Economic Commission, at the suggestion of the Russian Fur Union, it was decided to zero the import customs duty rates for the raw and dressed fur skins (Customs Commodity Codes 4301 and 4302) on a temporary basis for a period of 2 years. The reduction in duties with respect to all the declared subheadings of Commodity Items 4301 and 4302 of the Customs Commodity Code, except for those related. The Russian side considers the reduction of customs duties rates for the above subheadings for the mink premature in view of the unfavorable situation in global fur market, which has a negative impact on domestic farmers and producers, and suggests returning to the zeroing of import customs duties on this kind of raw materials in 2019 after the monitoring of world prices. The reduction (zeroing) of customs duties on these groups of goods will contribute to the development of Russian fur garments production, to increase of import of raw and dressed fur as well as to reduce its illegal importation, compensate the producers of finished products for losses from VAT increases in 2019. NAFA workshop in Ukraine NAFA held a workshop in Kiev (Ukraine), where Oksana Moroz, Marketing Director for Eastern Europe at NAFA, briefly introduced NAFA history to the participants, an overview of NAFA furs, NAFA labels, as well as eminent couturiers creating NAFA furs. All participants were able to familiarize themselves with products from NAFA furs made by renowned manufacturers MEHOV FURS, FELIX RODIONOV and with samples of NAFA furs. The seminar was successful, the participants were provided with promotional materials, brochures, posters. All participants had the opportunity to discuss the most pressing issues of the fur industry. Seminars on wild fur in Tomsk (Russia) On September 28, 2018, seminars were held in Tomsk (Russia) on the topic “Examination and quality assessment of raw fur” and “Overview of world markets. Marketing and promotion of hunting and trapping products, organized by the Department of hunting and fishing industry of the Tomsk region ". The seminar was attended by representatives of the regional administration, hunters, trappers, representatives of the Russian Fur Union, the auction company Sojuzpushnina, Control Information and Analytical Center for Game Animals and Their Habitats, scientists, experts of the fur industry. The issues of the status of hunting in the Tomsk region and the prospects for its development were discussed. Tomsk region is one of the most important regions of the production of commercial fur. Maxim Chipurnoy, senior manager of the Russian Fur Union, made a presentation on the situation and prospects for the development of the fur industry in Russia, and also spoke about the international certification project Furmark for farmed and wild fur in Russia.
ame ricas
FICA Protects CITES Laws The Fur Information Council of America (“FICA”) has secured a major victory for fur exporters when the U.S. District Court for the District of Montana denied a motion for summary judgment filed by WildEarth Guardians (WEG) and the Center for Biological Diversity (CBD) seeking to suspend the CITES Export Program (CEP) due to allegations that the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (“FWS”) did not undertake the environmental impact statement required by National Environmental Policy Act (“NEPA”) to determine whether the trapping of CITES Appendix II species for export purposes adversely affected the environment. The lawsuit initially was suspended to permit FWS the opportunity to conduct an “environmental assessment” (EA) as to whether a full-scale Environmental Impact Statement was necessary. WEG and CBD argued that the CEP increases exports, which in turn increases trapping, which serves to harm their members. Results of the EA concluded, however, that there is no adverse impact based on the Program, and therefore, no changes in the CEP were necessary. FICA served as intervenors in support of FWS in this case. As intervenors, FICA submitted briefs and made arguments along with FWS and the National Trappers’ Association. This successful result means that the export of CITES Appendix II furbearer species can continue under the current program. FWS will continue to distribute export tags to approved states and tribes, which will then distribute the tags to trappers, hunters or other individuals seeking to export Appendix II furbearer species. Once the pelts are properly tagged, they can then be exported through designated wildlife ports.
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