01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 All Golds 100
An exhibition to celebrate alumni of the School of Jewellery, Birmingham from 1971 to 2011
Jack Cunningham
Foreword Curatorial practice is not an activity to be undertaken lightly. It is a demanding task that requires dogged determination, powers of investigation, methodical attention to detail and the pursuit of excellence. I believe this describes Terry Hunt in a way that all who know him will recognise. Terry’s All Golds is a perfect exhibition concept; 100 individuals who have studied under Terry at the School of Jewellery over a 40 year period. Searching the School’s archives, tracking, and selecting the exhibitors might seem like a daunting prospect. But testament to
Terry’s significant impact on his past students, and the esteem in which he is held by his graduates, he is still in direct contact with many of those individuals who are represented in the exhibition. Together with the student experience, the underpinning remit of Birmingham City University embraces employability as its major priority within the educational forum. Ranging across a number of continents, and many different countries, the exhibition participants are a who’s who of designers, artists, makers, gallery owners, academics, retailers and opinion formers.
This demonstrates that employability has always been at the heart of the School’s delivery, and that internationalisation is interwoven into its ethos. The School of Jewellery has a truly international reputation which is reflected in those who study with us, and the subsequent influence those individuals have on their own cultural future. Terry should rightly take great pleasure, and gratification, from the personal journey that is mapped out through the objects mounted chronologically in this exhibition. He does however, generously acknowledge the part played by his colleagues,
past and present, at the School of Jewellery, whose collegiate spirit make this a unique, outstanding and wonderful place to be a part of. Terry’s 40 year contribution to the School forms a significant part of its 121 year history and his All Golds encapsulates that sense of heritage with great flair and style.
Professor Jack Cunningham PhD Head of the School of Jewellery Birmingham Institute of Art & Design
Terry Hunt
Introduction I make no apology for the number of exhibitors in this show. One hundred individuals is actually quite a small percentage of the students at the School of Jewellery over a forty year period. As the largest specialist provider in the UK, the School offers the widest selection of courses. The graduates selected here, not only from the UK, but also Germany, Italy, Norway, Israel, South Africa, USA, Chile, Thailand and China, do reflect that breadth but only in that they participated in courses that I was personally involved with. I am the first to recognise that for this reason several significant ‘names’ are missing
from this particular alumni selection - I have had to adhere to the curatorial criterion of a personal, academic connection with each exhibitor. Nonetheless, my time at the School has plenty of academic breadth in itself. My experience includes teaching and management of City & Guilds, Dip.A.D., Higher National Diploma, BA, and MA courses as well as supervision of Doctoral candidates. An alumni exhibition provides the opportunity to reflect on inevitable differences and changes occurring over the years. This selection of alumni serves not only to indicate my career path but also
developments within further and higher education itself. Over this forty year period art and design in general, and jewellery in particular, has reinforced its significant contribution to the creative and economic health of the country. Within business and academia there is now a greater appreciation of the value of art and design disciplines. Before the 1970s the School’s provision was mainly F.E. – City & Guilds craft courses. These provided a respected trade for many and, for a few, an opportunity to develop their business acumen [3]. By 1971 structured, design led courses were
developing and the Dip.A.D. of this period, with its common first year [2] was to develop into the contemporary BA (Honours) course. The range of HND courses currently offered by the School were initially validated by the national body BTEC in the 1980s to provide industry with practitioners who would have relevant craft skills allied to contemporary design practice. I am pleased to include three graduates from the first cohort [18,19,22]. The BA and MA courses have always maintained that each student is an individual whose artistic development is unique. This
has caused much interest and stimulated recruitment, especially internationally from the mid-1990s [37], several Norwegian students [52,54]; our first student from Taiwan [55] and then our first from mainland China [49]. Expanding connections with overseas institutions subsequently led to the pursuit of higher degrees for those already engaged as practitioners and lecturers [71,83]. This exhibition also celebrates alumni achievements after graduation; though academic attainment is a worthy ambition, what happens afterwards is of more lasting significance. There has
always been a wide variety of occupations enjoyed by our graduates. This is reflected in the wide diversity seen throughout the exhibition. As expected, specialist craftsmen are represented [13,17] and several designer makers; a diverse group in themselves [from 26 to 70, via 46]. There are artists/sculptors [30,38] and silversmiths whose work I perceive to be ‘sculptural’ [42,43]. It is important that those who help to sell and promote the works of others are represented. Owners of shops [1,9,45] and galleries [14,28,68,77] perform an essential role for makers
as do those supporting and encouraging all sections of the specialisation [22,53]. I am also pleased to include those who define what is bought in volume, in the High Street’s fashion outlets [25,44] and TV shopping channels [56]. The links connecting all these diverse elements are the lecturers and teachers, well represented here, who continue to inspire and influence current and future students. By ‘reflecting’ and ‘celebrating’, this exhibition is a brilliant confirmation of how the institution has helped encourage links between creativity and entrepreneurship over the last forty years. It
shows the School’s significant influence, not only on the business of craft and product in the West Midlands but also throughout the world.
Keith Attwood Keith’s initial subject interest was acquired at Brighton on a one year prediploma course. His tutor was Geoffrey Holden who introduced him to holloware forming and recommended Birmingham. The BA course at Birmingham then was titled 3 Dimensional Design, but he was able to follow the silversmithing specialisation with tutors Derek Birch and Gerald Whiles. Upon graduating in 1973 Keith gained valuable experience for more than two years at Robert Welch’s workshop in Chipping Campden, working with mastercraftsman John Limbrey. For a short while thereafter
01 he was in partnership with Martyn Pugh [7] – Attwood & Pugh Silversmiths, though meeting his wife-to-be on a Jamaican holiday was to change his career. In 1976 he moved to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA, establishing his silver workshop and later, with Tom Sandretto, jewellery manufacturing. Since 1979 he has traded as Keith Attwood Goldsmith in Bedford Square, creating custom hand-made jewellery in all precious metals. One of his daughters, Chelsea, joined the business in 2006.
limey481@yahoo.com
Richard Snell Though specialising in furniture design, the first year of Richard’s Dip A.D. course (1970-73) was the Common Course; designed to give every student an experience of all the specialisations in 3 Dimensional Design. He progressed to an MA in Industrial Design at BIAD, and upon graduating in 1975, was employed as a designer by Hostess Furniture. This association was to continue until 1989 with Richard as their Director of Design. It was then he joined BIAD as a principal lecturer, becoming Head of School of Fashion, Textiles and 3DD in 2003 and gaining his
02 professorship in 2006. His design practice continues, most recently with a range of seating for schools, in collaboration with Hille and David Rowe. Previous collaborations with David include the OPUS2 seating for musicians, as used in Symphony Hall, and developments within BIAD for studio, workshop and lecture theatre seating, including the School of Jewellery. Since 2009 Richard’s connection with the Faculty continues as Development Manager of Collaborative Partnerships. richard.snell@bcu.ac.uk
Jeff Andrews Upon completing his Advanced City & Guilds qualifications in 1974 Jeff worked in the Jewellery Quarter, firstly for W.J.Leach and then on his own, specialising in hand-made items and production of master models. In 1982 he emigrated to South Africa to take a job offered to him by Alan Mair Manufacturing – jewellers employing 13 other people. The rest of Jeff’s career relates to his continued involvement with this company and its growth. In 1986 he was promoted to workshop manager; ten years later becoming a director responsible, amongst other
03 things, for all aspects of the increasing production and the company’s rapid diversification. By 2000 the company, with Jeff as shareholder, employed 230 and produced in excess of 150 kilos of finished jewellery every month – making it one of South Africa’s major manufacturers. He took early retirement in 2009, subsequently following a post-graduate course in Labour Law at the University of Johannesburg leading to his qualification in 2010.
captain.jack@live.co.za
Robert Campbell-Legg Before his involvement with the School, Robert worked in the local industry, undertaking an engraving apprenticeship with W.W.Allen, including die sinking with Toye, Kenning & Spencer, and with Lewis and Clayton as a line artist. After a City & Guilds Advanced Jewellery course at the School he undertook the BA course between 1973 and 1976, then progressing to the Royal College of Art. His work has been included in a number of exhibitions and is held in the permanent collections of: the V&A Museum, Crafts Council, Goldsmiths Hall, and Birmingham
04
Museum & Art Gallery. Significant commissions include a rose bowl and jewellery for De Beers’ King George VI and Queen Elizabeth Diamond Stakes at Ascot, as well as a trophy for the Mecca Dante Stakes. He was a full time lecturer at the School since 1985 before his retirement in 2011. This post brought additional commissions including the School’s Centenary Medal and the BCU Doctorate Medal. In 2000 Robert had a one man show at BMAG featuring his Millennium Medal.
robert.campbell-legg@bcu.ac.uk
Nick Hubbard The jewellery of Nick Hubbard is instantly recognisable for the freshness and humour evident in each piece. Since graduating from the School in 1976 Nick has worked with his partner Jean (a contemporary at the School) who together as Brick and Bean have established their popular, characteristic genre. Nick is pleased to say his pieces are owned by many celebrities including: Jill Murphy, Roddy Doyle, Nicholas Hytner, Sue Townshend, Sir Hayden Phillips, Siobhan Redmond, Frances de la Tour, Virginia McKenna and, probably most visibly, Hazel Blears.
05 His work is seen in several exhibitions each year, selected venues include; Edinburgh, Manchester and London (Dazzle 1994 – 2011); Open Eye Gallery, Edinburgh; Byard Art, Cambridge (2005); Royal Exchange Theatre, Manchester (2006); Yorkshire Sculpture Park, City Art Gallery, Leeds (2006 & 2007); Pyramid Gallery, York, Symphony Hall, Birmingham (2007); Craft & Design Centre, Leeds (2007 & 2008). Though initially establishing his studio in the Jewellery Quarter, Nick now runs his business from Staffordshire.
www.nickhubbardjewellery.co.uk
Jane Kennard After completing her BA in 1976 Jane gained a PG Diploma in the History of Art & Design before establishing her design practice. For more than twenty years she designed, produced and marketed ranges of plastic fashion jewellery (silver ranges from 1987) that were shown at major trade shows in Britain, Hong Kong, New York and Frankfurt; selected for London’s Design Centre, and winning awards at Jablonec, Czechoslovakia. Pieces were purchased by the V&A for their permanent collection. During the eighties she was a member of the Designer Jewellers Group (DJG)
06 becoming chairman in 1983. For eleven years, until 1997, she taught at the School on a half full-time basis, including management of the HND programme for 3 years. Her design practice has taken in the design, production and marketing of aluminium plant labels and continues with commissioned pieces as well as the development of new ranges combining castings and semi-precious stones.
jane@woodfield-design.co.uk
Martyn Pugh Martyn is one of the country’s most high-profile silversmiths. He followed two courses at the School, completing an MA in 1976, and has maintained his workshop in Redditch ever since. While supplying international retailers and galleries, he also frequently works to commission and exhibits at venues including Goldsmiths Fair (since 1984); taking part in the nationwide coverage of the British Silver Weeks. The Roger Bilcliffe Gallery, Glasgow, hosted his one-man show in 2010. Martyn’s work is in many collections including 10 Downing Street, a number of Livery Companies including the Worshipful Company of
07 Goldsmiths, and Birmingham Assay Office. Private collectors have initiated several of his innovative projects – most recently a pair of 24ct gold claret jugs and a tankard of pure palladium. He is: Fellow of Birmingham City University; Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths; Warden of Birmingham Assay Office; committee member of the British Hallmarking Council; founder member of Contemporary British Silversmiths and Past Chair of the British Jewellers Association and the Worcestershire Guild of Designer Craftsmen. www.martynpugh.co.uk
Gaynor Andrews A significant proportion of Gaynor’s career has been dedicated to the School and it continues with her current position as Deputy Head of School. Upon graduation from the BA course in 1977 she established her practice as a designer-maker, initially as a founder member of the Winyates Craft Centre, Redditch, also teaching part-time at the School as well as Bournville and Sutton Coldfield colleges. An increasing commitment to the School – full-time from 1994 – is reflected in her achievements: development of the National Diploma
08 course; co-ordination of the NVQ training programme; leadership of the HND course, and supervision of several KTP schemes, all of which show a strong connection with, and concern for, the future of the industry. This concern also relates to the integration of new technology, reflected in her new BA Design for Industry course, and her Teaching Fellowship awarded by the University. She currently organises the UK Skills National Jewellery Competitions and is an examiner/advisor to a number of centres at home and overseas.
gaynor.andrews@bcu.ac.uk
Richard Bull Richard graduated from the BA course in 1977, and moved to Maidenhead to live with Julie Hoddle, who had graduated from the same cohort and had obtained a job setting up and running a workshop for a local jeweller. Richard found a job making brass carriage clocks and soon started to receive commissions and undertake silver repairs. He married Julie in 1978 and left the carriage clock company to start his own business. Having developed an extensive knowledge of carriage clocks he began producing silver cased versions, full sized and miniatures, for Matthew Norman Clocks.
09 Shortly after the birth of their first daughter in 1982, Julie joined the business and, in 1985, Bourne End Jewellers was founded, followed by the opening of their second branch in Beaconsfield in 1995. They are still working together; Julie buys all the stock and manages the staff, while Richard works at the bench undertaking commissions and repairs, alongside the second of their three daughters and another goldsmith.
rich.bull@live.co.uk
Michael Carpenter The School of Jewellery was part of Birmingham Polytechnic when Michael was a student on the BA course from 1974 to 1977. After graduation he worked in various areas of the trade, from fashion jewellery to diamond mounting, eventually setting up his own workshop in 1984. He continues to provide jewellery to around 75 independent retailers and galleries across the country, exhibiting regularly throughout the year. From 1984 to 2002 he was a regular exhibitor at Dazzle and in 1994 showed in Goldsmiths Hall with the Designer Jewellers Group,
10 which he chaired in 2010/11. Michael continues with his workshop in Debenham, Stowmarket, Suffolk where, in 2004, he opened his own gallery – the Spiral. He is a member of the Suffolk Craft Society.
info@michaelcarpenterjewellery.co.uk
Abigail Fleissig Though an early member of the nationwide Designer Jewellers Group, Abigail’s professional life since graduation from the BA course in 1977 has centred on Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. She started her workshop in 1978 specialising in electroforming and stone set jewellery; producing collections for exhibitions and special commissions. She has made significant contributions to the progress and development of design-led commerce within the Quarter, in particular as co-ordinator for Centrepiece, the organisation promoting and organising designer-makers working there.
11 Also, from 1997 to 2009, she has had a part-time role at the Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre, firstly as Exhibition Officer followed by Industry Liaison. Her list of exhibitions is extensive; including those in the USA, Japan and several UK venues. The Centrepiece exhibitions have formed a significant part of Birmingham’s Christmas activities since 1997 and continue to do so. Abigail has recently moved to Israel to set up a new workshop.
abigail.fleissig@hotmail.com
Mark Lewis Mark is a designer-maker specialising in silversmithing and jewellery, and also a landscape artist. After completing his BA at the School in 1978, where he won several local and national design awards, he worked briefly for a silversmith in London’s Covent Garden before establishing his own design practice in Wapping, East London. He has always been involved with teaching and lecturing; part-time at various centres around London and, between 1992 and 2009, fulltime at London Metropolitan University (previously London Guildhall). Since 2010 he has been a part-
12 time lecturer at the School of Jewellery, committing himself to furthering his own practice and interests. Interests which include folklore and maritime history; indicated by his memberships of the Folklore Society and Association of Lighthouse Keepers (founding executive member of the World Lighthouse Society). He is a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts; Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Horners and committee member of the Plastics Historical Society.
www.drawingfirst.co.uk
Rod Kelly Rod came to the School for the BA course in 1976, progressing to the Royal College of Art four years later. He is now one of the country’s leading specialists in low relief chasing, embossing the surface of silver with low relief decorative images, often inlaid with fine gold. His work is in the collections of several Livery Companies as well as the public collections of the V&A, No 10 Downing Street, National Museum of Scotland, Norwich City Museum, Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery, St Paul’s Cathedral along with Cambridge’s Fitzwilliam and Oxford’s Ashmolean Museums,
13 Recent commissions include; a wedding gift for the Duke & Duchess of Cambridge and altar candlesticks for Durham Cathedral. His work has recently been shown in exhibitions in Edinburgh (Bishopsland Silver), Ruthin (Treasures of Today) and London (Collect 2011). In 2003 he became a Liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, a Trustee of the Bishopsland Trust in 2007 and a Fellow of Birmingham City University in 2008. He designed and made the University’s Mace in 1995.
rodkelly@btinternet.com
Peter Burridge After graduating from the BA course in 1981, Peter travelled to Milan with help from a Royal Society of Arts bursary, learning traditional etching and printmaking techniques from artist Olivero Masi. On his return he opened a printmaking studio, having his work exhibited throughout Europe and the USA, including the Royal Academy and Mall Galleries. In 1989 he opened Montpellier Gallery, for contemporary art and craft, in Cheltenham, quickly establishing a strong reputation for studio pottery, glass, paintings and sculpture.
14 The success of this venture led, in 1990, to a second gallery in Stratford-upon-Avon. This continues to flourish and is one of England’s longest established craft galleries. Over the last 21 years he has increasingly specialised in contemporary jewellery, representing many of England and Germany’s finest emerging and established designer makers. Peter is frequently invited to judge various craft and design competitions for the organisations including the Giftware Association and the British Jewellers Association. www.montpelliergallery.com
Mark Walker Mark’s ‘jewellery journey’ started in spectacular fashion upon graduation from the BA course in 1982. Two R.S.A. Travel Bursaries enabled him to travel to India where he designed a crown for a Hindu temple featuring 25000 diamonds and 20 kilos of gold – one of the most expensive and exotic jewels in the world. In 1984 he joined Dust Jewellery, manufacturers of titanium, silver and gold jewellery, as head of design, and two years later helped form the specialist consultancy firm of Grant Walker. Amongst many projects, Mark, as Design Director, oversaw the design of jewellery factories and product
15 development throughout India, Philippines and Sri Lanka; also co-ordinating the European World Gold Council trend books and creating the De Beers Diamond Design Portfolio. He became a director of Buckley Jewellery in 1999 – the leading European manufacturer and wholesaler of costume and silver jewellery. In 2003 he joined H.Goldie, a leading DTC rough diamond broker, becoming creative director of Icecool – the online diamond jewellery boutique. Mark is now a freelance jewellery consultant.
mark1walker@hotmail.co.uk
Bridget Wheatley Bridget’s first workshop was in 1984 having graduated that year from the BA course. Her work at this time was largely using dyed and formed PVC. Over the next seven years, with a move to Abingdon, her work progressed through various materials – from silver inlaid ebony to resin to 18ct gold. She had work selected by the Design Centre and sold in galleries in Denmark, Switzerland and Australia. In 1994, having had two years with her workshop in the Abingdon Art and Craft Centre she joined textile artist Raija Medley in a joint venture called Uniikki - making and
16 retailing on the multi-culturally vibrant Cowley Road, Oxford. Since 2000 she has a new shop, still on Cowley Road though under her own name, where she sells her own ranges as well as an eclectic stock of work by UK based designer-makers.
www.bridgetwheatley.com
Bethan Williams Bethan completed her BA in 1986 gaining several bursaries and awards, specifically for her drawing and modelling. Since graduation she has pursued her own business as a model maker in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. Her regular work continues to concentrate on carving items in wax for the lost wax casting process; producing work for many companies both in the Quarter and throughout the UK. Since 1994 she has received numerous commissions for a variety of regimental ceremonial items and centrepieces. Clients include 2 nd Bat. REME, 37 Signals Regiment, Corsham
17 Combined Services and the Queens Gurkha Signals. Other important commissions include the Eisteddfod Drama Medal (2009) as well as the 25 th Anniversary Medal (obverse) for the Royal Mint. In 2005 she designed and carved the Queen’s Medal for Music (first recipient Sir Charles Mackerras) which she now supplies annually. From 2007 she has been producing items for Highgrove House and the Royal Collection.
bethan-williams@tiscali.co.uk
Simon Beaumont Simon came to the School in 1985 as a student on the newly validated HND programme. His subsequent involvement in jewellery, until a career change in 2002, was at the top end of the market with exclusive houses in London’s West End. Immediately after his course he joined Cartier Ltd, staying with them for four years – managing their boutiques at Harrods and Harvey Nichols. This was followed by a stint at David Morris, at their Conduit Street and Selfridges outlets. For four years from 1994 he then worked for Theo Fennel, which was ‘great fun, designing and serving clients such as Elton John, Roger
18 Moore, Sylvester Stallone, Jack Nicholson and Princess Diana.’ From 1998 he joined Goldsmiths Jewellers in Chancery Lane, and went on to manage their Rolex and Diamonds store within Harrods. The career change means Simon is no longer involved with jewellery though has his own company, The Flying Sound Company Ltd, which delivers Silent Discos at parties, weddings and other events.
www.flyingsound.co.uk
Helen Hulston When the HND Jewellery course commenced at the School Helen was one of its first students. After graduation she gained initial commercial experience with Shirley Frost at Design GAP, working with her for 3 years. This was followed by positions in a national giftware retailer as well as an independent jeweller which she managed from 1999. Between 2004 and 2010 she owned her eponymous store in the Great Western Arcade, Birmingham, retailing a selection of work by local, national and international jewellers. She is now able to devote more time as a member of the
19 Birmingham Board for the Retail Business Improvement District, as Independents Champion, raising the profile of a broad range of independent shops in an area dominated by large national retailers. She was invited to be a board member of the Birmingham Skills Shop – Skillsmart Retail, a judge for the BJA’s Kayman and Palladium Awards, and most recently, involvement with marketing the Retail BID gift guides and competitions.
jewellery@helenhulston.co.uk
Louise Parry Shortly after her graduation from the BA course in 1987 Louise established her own business as a silversmith and jewellery designer based at the New Brewery Arts, Cirencester. She continues to be based there as one of the centre’s resident artists, enjoying their workshop facilities and retail opportunities. In addition she has exhibited at Goldsmiths’ Fair, London and Desire, London. Louise has continued to develop a range of timepieces, culminating this year with the first of a range of wristwatches for men and women. In 2010 her silver and gold
20 diamond set ‘Crossing Time’ clock was commended in the Goldsmiths Craft & Design Awards – Smallworkers section. In 2009, it was also shortlisted for the Charmain Adams Award in the Crossings exhibition. In the same year she was commissioned to produce jewellery for the Ladies European Golf Team to wear at the Solheim Cup, USA. Louise’s ability to interpret an individual’s requirements continues to encourage regular commissions from an ever expanding client base, both nationally and internationally.
info@louiseparry.co.uk
Trevor Duncan As a designer Trevor established his first studio in the Jewellery Quarter in 1992. His first degree, completed at the School in 1988, specialised in silversmithing and was followed by a Masters in Product Design. His design practice from this time has gained a wide and diverse variety of clients – including the V&A, Virgin, Wedgwood and British Airways. The practice relocated in 2000, allowing Trevor to maintain a reduced but active role. Since 1992 he has also been involved with teaching; at a number of institutions including Warwickshire College and De
21 LaSalle College, Manchester. Most significant is his work for Northumbria University where he has been since 1998 and is now Head of Industrial Design. His work has been shown at a number of venues including ICFF, New York (2011) and Electrum Gallery, London (1995-03). He has collaborated with Claire Davies [24] in the design and production of ceremonial maces for Birmingham University (2000), Surrey Institute of Art & Design (2004) and York St John University (2007).
trevor.duncan@unn.ac.uk
Peter Taylor There are several stages in Peter’s career which have indirectly, if not directly, impacted on the careers of many of his co-exhibitors. Since 2002 he has been Director of Technology and Training at the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, and therefore integral to the Company’s wide-ranging patronage of institutions and individuals. A two year period as Director of External Funding for BIAD followed his creation and management of the Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre (1997 – 2000). This on-going venture has assisted many graduates and SMEs in the industry. Prior to that he was
22 director of the Taylor-Burgess consultancy which developed the Fellowship concept – a one year post-graduate enterprise providing subsidised bench space and business support. Though evolved over the years, the scheme continues as Design Space. Peter’s education at the School was in Advanced Craft Engraving (City & Guilds) and HND Design Crafts (Silversmithing) completed in 1988. Since 2005 he has been focussed on the new Goldsmiths’ Centre for which he is Director Designate. peter.taylor@thegoldsmiths.co.uk
Sharon Ulldemolins Sharon’s first degree was in Silversmithing and Jewellery in Birmingham, 1985 to 1988, followed by her Masters gained at the Royal College of Art, London. A highlight of her BA course was winning the international competition, Bewegung in Schmuck, with a ring which was exhibited at the Goldschmeide Haus, Hanau, Germany, in 1987. For ten years she worked in the printing industry as a digital trainer, providing courses in digital print related areas including software training, inkjet concepts and colour management. She now works for a web development company,
23 Redefine, in Canterbury as an account manager and ‘designers’ champion’, ensuring that artwork is accurately translated into the website. Her other role is as founder and organiser of First Friday Skill Share and Networking group. Since 2009 Sharon has been chair of the East Kent Women in Business organisation. This group, based in Canterbury, meet monthly and aim to provide a relaxed, supportive environment for women in all types of business – from home based sole traders to employees in larger organisations. sharon@redefine.co.uk
Claire Davies After her foundation course at Rochdale College of Art, Claire came to Birmingham for the BA in Three Dimensional Design, specialising in jewellery and silver. She then progressed to the MA course at the Royal College of Art, graduating from there in 1993. Since then she has lectured at a number of institutions including Warwickshire College (Lecturer); Coventry University (Senior Lecturer); University of Wolverhampton (Visiting Lecturer) and BCU School of Jewellery (Research Fellow and Visiting Lecturer). Her practice continues with contributions to exhibitions in London, Carmarthen and
24 Birmingham in addition to several significant commissions. These include: design of the Sir Isaac Newton Medal (Royal Mint); design and production of the Millennium Ceremonial Mace (University of Birmingham); design of Centro Linkspot (West Midlands Travel); design and production of a Ceremonial Mace for Surrey Institute of Art & Design and design and production of a Ceremonial Mace for York St. John University.
claire@holland111.fsword.co.uk
Vicky Leyshon Vicky came to the School from a National Diploma course in Fashion at Derby and worked as a freelance jewellery designer for six years when graduating in 1991. She gained a number of useful contracts at this stage of her career, including Coates Viyella (jewellery for M&S), Next and the V&A. In 1997 she joined Accurist Watches Ltd as Product Developer / Senior Selector, working with, and extending, their brand. From 2001 she was with Julius Meller Imports Ltd as the Senior Product Developer and Manager for their M&S account. This entailed
25 responsibility for planning and direction of all their jewellery, watches, cufflinks and soft accessory ranges. Vicky joined Gecko Jewellery in 2002 as Senior Designer, progressing to Head of Design and responsibility for their creative direction. She directs strategy for their house ranges: Elements Silver, Elements Gold, D for Diamond, Fred Bennett and licensed brand Fiorelli as well re-branded ranges being sold in H.Samuels, Beaverbrooks, ‘Designers’ at Debenhams and Tesco.
vicky.leyshon@btinternet.com
Joanne Tinker After a Foundation in Leeds, Joanne graduated from the School’s BA course in 1992. She now conducts her design practice from her home in Middlesex. Joanne has produced work for Hampton Court Palace Flower Show (2008) and shown at the Royal Academy of Arts’ Summer Exhibition (2007). Her work has been featured on television programmes including Blue Peter and a Denis Potter production. Her work is on permanent display at the Science Museum, London, purchased by the Museum of Art & Design in New York and featured in numerous magazines,
26 newspapers and books including Vogue and Crafts. She has conducted workshops throughout the UK in galleries and colleges and, in 2003, represented the British Council in India where she taught adults and children in Calcutta and Mumbai. Recent selected exhibitions include: Art Chicago and Art Hamptons, USA (2011); London’s Origin, Brighton Art Fair, Leeds Art Fair, Affordable Art Fair (2010); Artistic Toys - Munich and Brighton Craft Fair (2009).
jo@joannetinker.co.uk
Claire Denham-Smith Claire came to Birmingham for the BA course after her BTEC Diploma at Great Yarmouth. Upon graduation in 1993 she established her own practice as a freelance designer-maker, undertaking work in particular for W.H.Willmotts of Birmingham. Within this same period she was undertaking part-time lecturing at Walsall College and the School of Jewellery, as well as following a PG Certificate part-time at the School. In 1997 she joined Weston Beamor Ltd as product development manager, until 2001 when she moved to London as head designer for Stephen Webster Ltd.
27
Since 2009 Claire has been Brand Director there – a post which, as overall head of design, necessitated her involvement in new flagship stores in London (2009), Los Angeles (2010) and the concept store in Vienna (2010). In the UK Jewellery Awards, Stephen Webster Ltd has won Luxury Jeweller of the Year every year from 2002 to 2007; in 2009 the company gained Brand of the Year. Claire is a Freeman of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths.
claire.ds@stephenwebster.com
Diana Porter Since graduating from the BA course in 1993, Diana Porter has achieved pre-eminence as a successful designermaker and gallery owner. Shortly after graduating she was sponsored by the Crafts Council to take part in exhibitions in San Francisco and New York, subsequently winning the accolade of UK Jewellery Designer of the Year in 1999. In 2006 she opened her gallery/shop/workshop in Bristol, which has grown to be one of the UK’s significant venues for contemporary jewellery. The gallery regularly showcases the work of up to eighty other
28 designers alongside her own, and, together with the workshop, currently provides employment for 14 people. Her work, which is currently available in 100 outlets throughout the UK, has been featured in many magazines and newspapers including the Independent who named her as one of the top 10 British Jewellery Designers. Most recently, in 2010, the Retail Jeweller magazine recognised her as the UK’s most ‘Inspiring Independent’
www.dianaporter.co.uk
Joanne White Joanne graduated from the BA course in 1994, after being awarded the Emma Jessie Phipps Award, and worked initially for a Sheffield based independent jeweller, PA Jewellery. Although she was designing jewellery for individual clients her curiosity about the gemstones she encountered persuaded her to take part-time courses in Manchester which led to her FGA and DGA qualifications. Her employer encouraged this aspect of staff development as well as subsequent attendance at National Association of Goldsmiths’ courses so she was able to gain accreditation as a Jewellery Valuer.
29 In 2000 Joanne took the job of Jewellery Valuer at Safeguard (Birmingham Assay Office), becoming a Registered Valuer in 2005. As well as valuing items brought into the Assay Office, her job also entails travelling across the country for valuation days, and means she may be working with everything from single stones to complex antique pieces, and even diamond-set handbags!
joanne.white@theassayoffice.co.uk
Benjamin Storch Benjamin first came to the School in 1993 for his first degree having enjoyed a wide range of experiences encountered in places as diverse as Arizona, France and Berlin, and covering silversmithing, lapidary and sculpture. He commenced an MPhil at the School two years after his BA, in 1998, which eventually led to his PhD in 2004. This research, theoretical and practical, focussed on anticlastic forming and an interest in double curvature forms still exists as an essential theme within his practice. Since 2001 he has been living and working in Powys
30 where most recently his sculptural forms have been able to grow larger in scale. As well as securing several civic commissions, he is actively engaged with school and community projects in both England and Wales. His work has been extensively exhibited, since 2005, throughout the UK, mainland Europe and the USA, with recent commissions reaching as far as Hong Kong.
www.benjaminstorch.co.uk
Kate Thorley Graduating from the BA course in 1996 Kate (nee Warren) worked for Cookson Precious Metals Ltd as Senior Designer for the following eight years, being responsible for a team of bench workers in the UK and Mauritius. While at Cooksons she won the World Gold Council’s Gold Virtuosi award of 2002, worn by Helena Bonham-Carter, and, in 2003 designed the ‘hero’ piece in Emagold’s fashion show. In 2004 she became Senior Designer at the Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre, in total assisting 85 SMEs and 74 designer-makers with design, mentoring and research. Prestigious design assignments
31 include: a spectrum of trophies for Channel 4 (2005); trophies for the UN World Habitat Awards (2006 & 2008) and the medals presented at the European Indoor Athletic Championships (2007). In 2009 Kate established Nest Creates Ltd – a fine jewellery design business in partnership with Zoe Phillips (nee Youngman), being selected in 2010 to design for PureJewels ’ Platinum Heritage collection. Kate continues to strengthen her luxury bespoke jewellery company though Zoe changed career in 2011. www.nestcreates.co.uk
Melanie Ankers When she graduated from the BA course in 1997 Melanie (nee Hamlet) worked in the Birmingham trade for a while but, after getting disheartened, took a ‘proper job’ in an office and also travelled around Europe. In 2003 she developed a collection and took the plunge as designer-maker with her company Kokkino, which is based in Worcester. She works mainly with silver and vitreous enamel, though increasingly uses the contrasting potential of gold plating and oxidation. She sells mainly to the trade, showing at two or three trade events each year and supplying many shops
32 and galleries throughout the UK, plus a few further afield in Ireland, USA and Europe. Recently she exhibited additionally at the retail shows: Contemporary Craft Fair and Goldsmiths Fair. Melanie is a member of the British Society of Enamellers and also the Worcestershire Guild of Designer Craftsmen.
www.kokkino.co.uk
James Newman James is one of the UK’s leading contemporary jewellery designers; his collections are designed and produced in the Jewellery Quarter as well as being retailed there and at selected outlets throughout the country. After graduating from the BA course in 1997 he chose to follow an incubation programme – the Taylor Burgess Fellowship scheme – before starting his business. He has shown his work at International Jewellery London every year since 1998; the NEC’s Spring Fair every year up until 2007, and at Goldsmiths Fair every year since 2003. Since 2007 he has
33 also collaborated annually with fashion designer Neil Barrett to produce unique collections. After being commended in the Platinum Guild international 2009 awards for Best Bridal Tri-Set, he won this category in 2010, also gaining a commendation for Best Platinum Display. James has served on the National Committee of the BJA and, since 2009, has been a member of the Management Board, Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre.
www.jamesnewman.co.uk
Sarah Tomlin Sarah’s first degree, in Jewellery & Silversmithing, was completed in 1994 at Loughborough College of Art & Design, being awarded the Goldsmiths Prize at New Designers. She came to the School for her MA in 1996. Upon graduation in 1997 she established her practice as a designer jeweller as well as taking part time employment at Westminster College, Oxford. From this time she was successful in attracting several grants from Southern Arts, West Oxfordshire District Council and, in 2004, the Arts Council. She was also awarded the Johnson Matthey Platinum Design
34 Innovation Award in 2003. Her work has been shown in many exhibitions including: Roger Bilcliffe Gallery, Glasgow (1996-06); Chelsea Crafts Fair (1997-99); Kath Libbert, Saltaire (1997-02); Rarefind, Farnham (1999-06); JaM, Eton (1995-05); Goldsmiths Fair, London (2002 & 03); Bowie and Hulbert, Hay on Wye (2005 & 06); Contemporary Craft Fair, Bovey Tracey (2006). Sarah spent two years in Kenya, returning to Oxford in 2009 where she continues to supply her work to Verandah in Oxford.
www.sarahtomlin.co.uk
Laura Cave Upon completion of her BA course at the School in 1998 Laura progressed to the Royal College of Art in London for her MA. During vacations on both courses she gained interesting and useful experience; working part-time for jeweller Jane Adam and also designing and teaching in Peru. Although her regular employment after leaving the RCA was at the Contemporary Applied Arts gallery in London she still maintained her Peruvian contacts. This led, in 2006, to the formation of Just Trade – Laura being a Founding Director. The company deals in Fair Trade jewellery and accessories.
35 She still maintains her practice as a designermaker, contributing to recent exhibitions in Denmark, Edinburgh and London, and featuring in publications which highlight her decorative use of aluminium. Since 2001 she has lectured in a number of colleges and universities, including the RCA, Surrey Institute and School of Jewellery; her current post being with London Metropolitan University.
laura@justtrade.co.uk
Michelle McKinney Michelle (nee Holderness) gained a First when graduating from the School’s BA course in 1998. Based in Market Harborough she has, since 2007, establishes a significant reputation for her woven metal artworks. They exhibit a fresh approach to framed work which is both delicate and subtle, yet showing strength of line and pattern. Exhibiting venues include: Earls Court (2007); Leeds, Royal London Hospital, Winchester (2008); Staunton Harold, Dulwich (2009); Leeds and Swansea (2010). She has shown at Origin in 2007 and 2009 and, most
36 recently, at Art London and The Affordable Art Fair where she is represented by the Northgate Gallery of Battersea. Michelle was a finalist for the Leicestershire Artist of the Year 2009 and the following year was commissioned by the British Council and Crafts Council to create official gifts to the Shanghai government for their Expo. In 2011 she will complete an important commission for the Royal Albert Memorial Museum, Exeter.
www.michellemckinney.co.uk
Monica Perez Monica was born in Santiago, Chile and took her first degree in Design Studies at the PUC University there. She gained her MA at the School in 1998. While she was in Birmingham she designed the gift which was presented to all European ministers attending the meeting of the WEU in the city (1996). After graduation she returned to Santiago where her practice flourishes. Under her trading name of monoco she transfers her dynamic and playful personality into her work in which colour, movement and contrast are key principles. Traditional materials are combined with innovative
37 and unusual elements in an invitation to smile, to be surprised and to play with. Since 2001 she has been doing trade shows in Britain, Germany and the USA, and her new work is currently sold in Europe, North and South America. Each year since 2005, she has shown in the annual exhibitions held at the O! Gallery, Santiago.
www.monoco.net
Matt Sanderson Matthew is a sculptor/ designer, constructing art forms from steel, copper and bronze which may be static or kinetic, wearable and/or functional; on a scale from ‘minute to monumental’. He came to the School for his MA course in 1997 having gained a first degree in 3D Design – from the University of Northumbria. Ever since graduation he has enjoyed corporate and public commissions as well as from individuals. He has designed and made sculptural pieces for schools, local authorities, theatres, hospitals, and a brewery as well as private clients. Recent commissions
38 include the ‘Midsummer Chronophage’ currently at the Science Museum London (with John C. Taylor) and the World Tree for Bottisham Village College, Cambridgeshire. Matthew has exhibited at Burghley House, Stamford on several occasions as well as Newby Hall, Ripon; Art de Jardin, Rutland, and London Corn Exchange, amongst other venues. Since 1998 he has regularly lectured at the Cambridge School of Visual & Performing Arts on their Foundation course, currently leading the Applied Craft course. www.sanderson-sculpture.com
Gail Ferriman Since her first degree from the Central School of Art & Design, London, Gail had established her own business as a jeweller working for various small companies and undertaking commissions, as well as organising several jewellery and art workshops. After a PGCE course she lectured at the University of Derby on their Design/Crafts and Applied Arts programmes. She undertook the MA course at the School as a part-time student, graduating in 1999. Her work, especially in the Politicalgems series, has been exhibited in London, Birmingham and Bristol. Her glass and wirework has been
39 shown in Munich and Milan, as well as Denver and Salida, USA. She works as a tutor/ lecturer: up until 2008 at the Centre for Continuing Education, University of Nottingham, and since then at DALS Derby, and the University of Derby, though still maintaining her design practice. She has, for instance, curated and taken part in a number of exhibitions arising from the ACJ-Midlands Group.
gferriman@sky.com
Hannah Hughes Upon graduation from the BA course in 1999 Hannah worked as a designer-maker for a variety of businesses in South Wales, Bristol, Bath and Bradford-on-Avon. She was self-employed for a short time before taking up a position to re-establish the jewellery workshop for her current employer; Beards of Cheltenham, who were established in 1804 and have a branch in Park Lane, London. Over the last five years she has successfully managed the workshops in Cheltenham, being recently appointed jewellery director. Her designing is usually on commission basis or for the
40 showroom window, and is primarily in platinum or 18ct gold with diamonds and fine gemstones, employing the latest CAD technology where appropriate but also maintaining traditional bench skills. The work is varied including interesting pieces such as the ‘goddess cuff’ designed for Liz Hurley’s charity Hop, Skip and Jump. Hannah has recently gained the GIA Diamond Diploma and is working for the Gemmology Diploma.
hannah@beards.co.uk
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Gill Galloway-Whitehead
Rajesh Gogna
After a first degree in graphic design at Leicester Polytechnic, Gill’s focus on jewellery developed during her MA at the School which was completed in 2000. She has continued to develop and refine her linear, graphic technique; producing work which is extremely fine, precious, and instantly recognizable. In 2002 she won the Innovation Prize at Inhorgenta, Munich, and the following year became a Selected Maker in the Crafts Council Photostore. The Goldsmiths Company’s Gold Award for Technological Innovation in 3D was presented to her in 2004. Selected exhibitions
Rajesh’s first involvement with the School was as a City & Guilds student, progressing to the HND course in 1994. He secured his BA at Sheffield Hallam University, returning to the School for his MA in 1999. As a student he won BJA awards (1995 & 96), a Rowlinson Scholarship (1996), Pewter Live; Live Lighting Award (1997) and Goldsmiths New Designers Award for Silversmithing (1998 & 2000). BM&AG purchased Rajesh’s work for their Silver collection in 2002. Since graduating he has been production advisor at the Royal College of Art and guest lecturer at a
include the Milan Triannale (2005); Goldsmith’s Fair (every year since 2006); shows in Enschede, Netherlands (2006); Santa Fe and New York (2007); Hertogenbosch, Netherlands (2009); Santa Fe and Hildesheim, Germany (2010). She maintains her practice in the Jewellery Quarter and has work in the permanent collection of Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery as well as in the modern collection of the Goldsmiths Company.
gill@gillgallowaywhitehead.com
42 number other institutions. He is now senior lecturer on 3D Design Craft courses at Staffordshire University and Coventry University. He also maintains his practice as a silversmith and metalwork artist, participating in several exhibitions including Origin (2006 & 07); Goldsmiths Fair (2008,09,10,11); British Silver Week (2009); SIDE X SIDE-EDGE to EDGE, Finland (2010) and Silverstruck, Ruthin & Cardiff Museum (2011) His work is available at the CAA London and Roger Bilcliffe Gallery, Glasgow.
www.rajeshgogna.co.uk
Christopher Perry Having completed a BA course at Sheffield Hallam University, specialising in metalwork and jewellery, Chris gained useful experience as a silversmith and CAD designer in the Brian Asquith Design Partnership. His interest in silver came through the family firm – Perry & Glossop of Sheffield – which continue to manufacture items for the retail and wholesale trade. Chris did his MA at the School in 1999/2000 later gaining additional experience with a number of designer/makers’ workshops before establishing his own business in 2004.
43 He has contributed to many exhibitions since then in London, Sheffield and Glasgow, and been selected for Goldsmiths Fair every year from 2004. He presented his work to HRH the Prince of Wales in 2005 at Goldsmiths Hall and is represented in the Rabinovitch Fish Slice collection at the V & A Museum. In addition to undertaking numerous individual commissions he is also an associate lecturer at Sheffield Hallam.
www.christopher-perry.co.uk
Nicola Phillips Nicola has been designing jewellery for most of the top brands since she left the Royal College of Art in 2004. In that year she designed the jewellery to complement Stella McCartney’s Paris collection, having a year earlier designed, as a college project, a range put into production by Links of London. She had graduated from the School in 2000 with a First and an Emma Jessie Phipps Scholarship. Up until 2006 she produced designs for Freedom at Topshop, Diva at Miss Selfridge and Accessorize. This latter experience, which provided worldwide travel for styling
44 research, led to an eighteen month position with Stephen Webster where she was responsible for designing his diffusion line, endorsed by Christine Aquilera. Since 2009 she has been senior designer at Long Island Products, creating and launching Reiss’ current range, alongside other High Street brands including M&S, Monsoon, ASOS and Next. Nicola has been, since 2005, a visiting lecturer at the Royal College, discussing aspects of the commercial industry.
nicola.phillips@network.rca.ac.uk
Robert Pughe After leaving secondary school Robert joined the Royal Navy, enjoying six years of travel but not forgetting a childhood dream of becoming a jeweller. After contacting the School he took a short City & Guilds course in 1992 before his Higher National Diploma. Robert progressed to the post-graduate Fellowship scheme, where he met his future wife, Marianne. Their business partnership was formed in 1994, initially working as wholesalers in the Jewellery Quarter though relocating to Northumberland while continuing to supply over 50 outlets with their original designs.
45 In 2000 they established their own retail outlet in Corbridge, Northumberland, which continues to flourish with extensive developments to expand taking place in 2004. As well as a busy workshop creating individual commissions, the shop stocks a wide selection from some of the best British and European jewellers, in addition to fine watches, bronzes and silverware.
www.saundersandpughe.com
Miranda Sharpe Miranda’s first degree was in 3DD at Manchester Metropolitan University, specialising in metals with ceramics. She came to the School for her MA in 1999 after a year in London working for a fine jewellery company. After the MA she participated in the Design Space scheme which provided access to studio space, as well as business support and development. Miranda’s use of resin has created jewellery which is instantly recognisable in its forms and colours. It has been seen in the Dazzle exhibitions in London and Manchester from 2007 to 2009
46 (plus Edinburgh in 2008). Other selected exhibitions include: Turning Heads, Brighton; Open Eye Gallery, Edinburgh; R.B.S.A., Birmingham (2010); Create, Devon Guild; Centrepiece, Birmingham; Rarefind, Farnham (2009); Contemporary Craft Fair, Manchester; Black & White, Heart, Yorkshire; Craft & Design Gallery, Leeds; Design Show, Liverpool; Q Gallery, Cambridge (2008). She has been a visiting lecturer at the School of Jewellery, and the universities of Liverpool Hope and Wolverhampton. miranda@mirandasharpe.co.uk
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Monica Perez
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Michelle Wood
Diana Porter
James Newman
Matt Sanderson
Christopher Perry
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Joanne White
Sarah Tomlin
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Claire Price
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Michelle Wood After completing her HND in Silversmithing and Jewellery at the City of London Polytechnic (now London Metropolitan University) Michelle worked for a giftware company, Flights of Fancy, as operations co-ordinator. Five years later, in 1998, she entered the School’s BA programme, gaining a commendation in Pewter Live 99 and the BA Prize awarded by the British Jewellers Association in her final year. From 2001 she has been lecturing part-time in jewellery at Warwickshire College in addition to continuing her practice as a self-employed contemporary jeweller
47 in Leamington Spa. Her work was shown at Warwickshire Art Weeks in 2010.
michellewood.jewellery@yahoo.co.uk
Katey Felton After an art foundation at Lincoln De Montfort Katey took her first degree at Manchester Metropolitan University in Three Dimensional Design. In 2001 she completed her MA at the School and, through the Yorkshire Artspace Society, moved to a workshop at the Persistence Works in Sheffield from where she continues to run her own business as a contemporary silversmith. Katey specialises in the techniques of chasing and repousse – with each piece being individually hand formed. One of her most recent awards was from the Goldsmiths Craft and Design Council in 2009 in recognition of her
48 high standards of excellence in the chasing technique. Her work is on permanent display in the Sheffield Assay Office Collection and also that of the Sheffield Galleries & Museums Trust. Recent commissions include corporate silverware for the G8 Summit on behalf of the Home Office and Sheffield City Council; a centrepiece for Nostell Priory; and a collection for the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth House.
www.kateyfelton.com
Fei Liu Fei was the first Chinese student to embark on a fulltime course at the School. When he graduated from the BA programme in 2000 he worked for four years in the design office of Firmin & Sons of Birmingham before starting his own business. Over five years the company has become one of the major players in Birmingham’s jewellery industry. He now offers a range of collections in platinum, gold and silver, with world-wide sales. In 2009, the same year that he started selling through Harrods and Liberty, he opened his own store in Beijing and the following year a concession in
49 Tokyo’s Mitsukoshi Ginza store. In 2010 he was listed in the Top 100 in the UK Jewellery Industry, previously winning many awards including a Design Innovation Award – Platinum (2009); IJL – Editors’ Choice Award (2009); Goldsmiths Awards (2000, 2002, 2005, 2006 and 2008); Kayman Awards (2006 and 2007) He was recently presented with the BCU Alumni of the Year 2010 award for Enterprise and Innovation.
www.feiliu.co.uk
Olivia Norman When Olivia graduated from the School’s BA course in 2001 she knew she wanted to pursue a career in jewellery though was unsure what opportunities would be available to her beyond the title ‘designer-maker’. After working at Justice for three years in their Head Office, she accepted a position as the Commercial Manager for Shaun Leane Jewellery in 2005. Shaun is a renowned British jewellery designer gone global and Olivia has been an integral part of the company’s expansion into locations as diverse as New York, Kuwait, Moscow and Hong Kong. She describes every day as a new
50 challenge: from managing wholesale accounts to visual merchandising; staff training to VIP handling; targeting new business to brand development. ‘I was very inspired by Shaun while at university, so I feel really privileged to work with him now so closely.’ Olivia continues to proudly manage and drive the company’s commercial strategy, overseeing all sectors in the wholesale, retail and online markets.
olivia.norman@shaunleane.com
Arianna Pittini Born in Rome and educated in England, Arianna has now returned to work in her home city. Having initially travelled to England to study on a Foundation course, her first degree, in jewellery design, was obtained at London’s Central St Martins School. She came to Birmingham in 2000 for her MA. Her bold use of nonprecious materials at this time, in particular fabric, paper and iron, ensured considerable exposure at a number of exhibitions which were taking place in London, Farnham, Munich and Bangkok. Her work as a self-
51 employed designer-jeweller continues, working to commission and also producing work to be showcased in international exhibitions such as PapierSchmuck, Austria (2007 & 2008). Most recently she works with paper which is enclosed in silk fabric to create gendered garment-like pieces that recall memory and nostalgia.
www.ariannapittini.com
Ailin Rølvåg After taking foundation courses in art and design as well as goldsmithing in Norwegian schools, Ailin came to England in 1998 to study jewellery at degree level. Her first experience, at Middlesex, was not successful so she transferred to Birmingham, graduating in 2001. She returned to Norway where she gained fulltime employment in the jewellery studio/shop Donnas Smykkegalleri in Oslo until 2006 when she started her own company; designing and producing jewellery which is sold through her own web-site. Since 2008 she has also worked part-time
52 for the jewellery suppliers Max Johansons Eftf AS. Between 2003 and 2009 she was a board member of the Norwegian association of jewellery designermakers – Gullsmedenes Verkstedgruppe/Edelsmedene.
ailin@roelvaag.com
Rebecca van Rooijen Most graduates and professionals in the industry have used benchpeg – the online community for the trade. Rebecca co-founder of benchpeg with her brother, an IT Consultant, in 2007 to use the internet to help disseminate information across the industry. She graduated from the School’s BA course in 2001 having completed a Foundation at Winchester School of Art. She later gained an MA in Arts Management from City University, London in 2007. Over the last four years benchpeg has grown to over 6,500 subscribers, spread across 53 countries. benchpeg is of significant benefit to the
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industry, successfully placing people in work and helping start graduate careers. In its conception Rebecca wanted to address issues she herself faced after graduation – the ability to find work, to keep up to date with industry developments and provide professional development opportunities. In addition, Rebecca has had a ‘day job’ with the Goldsmiths Company since 2002. Initially a research assistant, then promotions administrator and website manager, she is now project officer for the Company’s £17.5M development project The Goldsmiths’ Centre. www.benchpeg.com
Karoline Skotte Karoline was one of a number of Norwegian students who continued their education in England in the last decade of the millennium. Her first exhibition upon graduation was New Designers 2001 and from this she secured a position at Expo Arte in Oslo. This workshop/gallery is quite unique in Norway and Karoline designed collections for the gallery as well as for individual customers. After 3 years there Karoline left to start her own workshop where she designs and makes for individual clients. Her latest business – Making Sense, started in 2007 with a colleague, focuses on
54 different markets. In that first year their work was seen on a catwalk celebrating 400 years of Norwegian jewellery. In 2008 Making Sense were selected to provide products for Stavanger, as European City of Culture, and also showed work on the Oslo Fashion Show catwalk. Karoline produced, with another jeweller, the earpiece worn by the host at the Eurovision Song Contest of 2010.
www.karolineskotte.com
Mimi Yu Joining the BA course in 1994, Mimi was one of the first students from Taipei to attend the School. After graduating from this course she progressed to the MA programme before returning home. Her work was for sale at London’s Electrum Gallery between 2000 and 2003. Since 2002 she has been involved in a number of lecturing posts; at the Taipei Fine Art Museum – Metal Art from 2007 to 2009, and the following which continue: Shih Chien University, Department of Fashion Design – Jewellery (since 2002); Bureau of Employment and Vocational Training – Jewellery Design
55 (since 2009); Chinese Culture University, School of Continuing Education – Contemporary Jewellery (since 2005). In 2008 Mimi was invited to be a judge of the RICH JADE competition.
mimiyu@hotmail.com
Caroline Creba Since finishing her BA course in 2002 Caroline has been working in the jewellery industry particularly creating and developing brands as well as direct sourcing. Her first position on graduating was with Charles Green & Sons – fine jewellers of Birmingham where she was Marketing and Product Manager. Her experience since 2004 has been as a jewellery buyer with Shopping Television Channels, including Gem TV and Ideal World, though in 2007 she became Senior Buyer for Sit-Up Channels in London. This job requires worldwide travel for the company
56 which is ‘the UK’s most innovative TV home shopping retailer’; owning Bid tv, Price Drop tv and Speed Auction tv. Caroline is involved in the concept and design of ranges featured on these channels.
caroline.creba@hotmail.co.uk
Liliana Ojeda Liliana came to England with her husband when he was studying at the University of Cambridge. She had previously studied sculpture in the Catholic University of Chile in her home city of Santiago. Her MA study at the School, completed in 2002, was a response to her desire to pursue sculpture that related to the human form, whether through scale, physical texture or emotional content. She created several memorable pieces including a contemporary ‘navel’ heirloom which related to four generations. This exploited the technique of electroforming for which she was awarded the
57 IMF Prize in 2002 and the Emma Jessie Phipps Award in 2003. She has now returned to Chile where her practice continues. Selected exhibitions include: Artes del Fuego, School of Applied Arts, Santiago (2009); Inhorgenta, Munich (2008 & 2009); Arte Portable, Onza Gallery, Santiago (2007); Ag3, Casa Naranja, Santiago (2006)
www.lilianaojeda.cl
Claire Price Claire’s first involvement with the School was in 1998 as an HND student and maiden name of Woolley. During this time she gained a George Jackson Bursary, Assay Office Silver Design Award, as well as the BJA Student of the Year accolade. Progressing to the BA course she continued to win prizes, not only from the BJA but also bursaries from the Goldsmiths Company and Louisa Anne Ryland. Upon graduation she gained one of the major awards at New Designers. Claire joined Kestrel of Birmingham as a designer, commencing a Knowledge
58 Transfer Partnership with them and the School in 2003. Over the following two years she completed her MA in Design Management and also achieved significant recognition in the industry with a number of prestigious awards for designs utilising both diamonds and platinum. She was shortlisted for ‘Designer of the Year’ in 2005. Since 2006 she has been a freelance CAD designer, and teacher at the School, where she helped to develop and deliver the new BA Design for Industry course.
claire.price@bcu.ac.uk
Philip Beale After his Foundation course at Loughborough Pip came to the BA course in 2000. Immediately after graduating from the BA course in 2003, he joined the Birmingham based manufacturing jewellers Charles Green & Son, as marketing assistant. He became design and marketing manager in 2006 – a position he currently holds. One aspect of his work is liaison with the School: every year since 2009 Charles Green has undertaken a live project with students from the BA Design for Production course whose winning designs are put into production. The winning student gains
59 a period of placement, working alongside Pip. His work with the company has led them to the finals of the Platinum Bridal Collection of the Year Award at the UK Jewellery Awards 2010 and second place in the Palladium Commercial Design Awards 2010.
pbeale@charles-green.co.uk
Sarah Cilia Sarah followed both ND and HND courses in Art & Design at York College before starting her BA at the School in 2000. As well as a First she gained the Gyde Bequest and the Lincoln Pen Award (2003); the Jewellery Quarter Association Award for Craftsmanship; Pewter Live prize (2002); and second prize in the Ehinger-Schwarz’ Charlotte competition (2001). She gained a teaching qualification in 2006, subsequently teaching jewellery at a girls’ private school and York College. Sarah has been the jewellery manager for York’s Pyramid Gallery since 2003
60 and continues her practice as a designer maker. A recent commission was the provision of four pieces for the opening of Wedgwood’s Regent Street store in London. Her work has appeared in Lark Books’ publications – 1000 Rings (2004); 500 Necklaces (2006) and Jo Bosworth’s Ceramics with Mixed Media (A&C Black 2006). Since 2006 she has worked with the Yorkshire Museum as Jewellery Advisor.
sarahchiliajewellery@hotmail.com
Anna Lorenz Before coming to Birmingham for her degree Anna followed a goldsmithing apprenticeship in Regensburg, Germany. During her degree she secured prizes from competitions with EhingerSchwarz (Charlotte) and the Pewterers Company, as well as a Precious Metal Bursary and the Louise Anne Ryland Award. Immediately after graduation she gained prizes for Best Product Design at Chelsea Craft Fair as well as the Jules Award for Best Product at IJL, Earls Court. Building on a previous period of work experience, Anna pursued a graduate apprenticeship with Regent
61 Silversmiths in Birmingham – a connection which continues to this day. As well as a parttime lecturer role at the School of Jewellery, her practice continues from her Frederick Street workshop, with recent commissions for the Jewellery Quarter Museum and the Goldsmiths Company Collection. Recent exhibitions include: Goldsmiths Fair; Origin; Itami, Japan; Inhorgenta, Munich; Glasgow, Sheffield and Legnica, Poland.
www.annalorenz.com
Katherine Richmond After being introduced to jewellery on her foundation course Katherine (maiden name Pearce) completed her BA at the School in 2003, gaining a Precious Metal Bursary and George Jackson Travel Award as well as First Class Honours. For the following five years she was self-employed; exhibiting with the Designer Jewellers Group as well as producing bespoke gifts for the sports and corporate sector. In 2008 she returned to School gaining a Distinction on the MA course which provided a more conceptual direction to her work. This now explores the fragile relationship between people
62 and objects and the tensions between control and disorder. Electrum Gallery in London recently accepted Katherine as a member and she always has a full calendar of exhibitions typically including Life’s a Bench, Munich; DAZZLE in Glasgow and Collect in London. Katherine has also recently started teaching in a regional adult education programme as well as with children with learning difficulties.
www.katherinerichmond.com
Lucy Sylvester Having had her initial introduction to the School on HND, platinum and stonesetting courses, Lucy gained her MA there in 2003. She has now been established as a designermaker in Banbury for 14 years, attracting significant media interest, including the Independent (2007); Vogue (2008); BBC Radio Oxford and the Tatler (2009). At the Country Living show of 2009 her work received the accolade of Editors’ Choice. Since 2008 she has been a member of Craft Central and selected by the Observer for Courvoisier Network 500 membership. Selected recent
63 exhibitions include: Chelsea Flower Show (2010); Art in Action, Oxon (2009 & 2010); Handmade in Britain, Delhi; London Jewellery Week (2008 & 2009) and her work retails in London, Brighton, Rye, Richmond, Oxford and Lewes amongst other venues. Lucy lectured part-time for a number of years at Oxford and Cherwell Valley College and is currently creating a collection of accessories and furnishings to be launched under the name of Love from England.
www.lucysylvester.com
John Todd John’s first degree was in Fine Art which he gained from Loughborough University in 1992. From this time he established a practice which has resulted in a variety of pursuits; trading as Toddwatch and also Orange Oxide Design. In addition to designing, making and marketing individual ranges of clocks, watches and leather bags John has also been involved as a facilitator and tutor in various youth and community projects and workshops, particularly throughout Staffordshire. In 2000 he commenced the MA programme at the School as a part-time student, expanding his range of
64 processes and products. He has taken part in exhibitions held in Germany, USA, Oxford, London and Birmingham and his work has been in galleries in Leicester, Cambridge, Chesterfield, Manchester, Eton, Buxton and Staunton Harold. Alongside his own practice, John is currently involved in a variety of creative activities, which all aim to inspire greater achievement in others. One of these is ProteanArt which he started with his wife Debbie in 2009.
john@proteanart.com
Cheryl Barnes Cheryl benefited from a number of exhibitions immediately after graduation from her BA course in 2004 including: Galerie Marzee, Nijmegen; Designer Maker Show, mac, Birmingham and on the British Fashion stand at the Milan Triennale. She joined Stratton, sister company of Firmin and Sons, as a junior designer in 2005, gaining valuable experience of the accessory industry. When Firmins went into administration she joined the design team of Birmingham based fashion jewellers Watch This Space. For four years she worked and lived jointly between the
65 UK and their Philippine factory, overseeing seventy collections per year through to completion. In 2010 she started her own jewellery company, Very Beryl – ‘a quirky yet elegant brand influenced by British eccentricity’. Many of the collections are inspired by her final degree show – a wearable autobiography represented as brooches for every day. The work sells through her website as well as boutiques and gift shops within the UK.
www.veryberyl.com
Alice Gow When Alice graduated from the School’s BA course in 2004 she was fortunate to be able to follow a Graduate Apprentice Scheme – just introduced by the university as a pilot in conjunction with local industry. She gained a bursary as the best student on the programme and, in the same year, a Commendation in the national Goldsmiths Craft & Design Awards. She established her workshop in the Jewellery Quarter where she continues to develop her ranges of kinetic jewellery featuring aluminium and silver, as well as gold and precious stones. Alice has shown her
66 work in many exhibitions and selling shows within Birmingham, as well as other venues including the Yorkshire Sculpture Park; Ferrers Gallery, Ashby de la Zouch; the Architecture Centre, Bristol; and Bilston Craft Gallery. Since 2007 she has been part of the Centrepiece group and exhibited annually with them in Symphony Hall.
www.alicegowdesigns.com
Xiaowang Huang Xiaowang was always known at the School by his western name Sean, for which we were all very grateful! He came to the School for the MA programme in 2003 having won the Bronze Award in the Diamond Division, 2 nd Cup of Chaohongji (jewellery design competition) as well as Gold in the Gemstone Division (2001) in addition to being shortlisted for the Millennium Gold – Eternity Design Competition (2000). Since 2005 he has been Head of the Crafts and Arts Department at the China Academy of Art in Hangzhou. In 2009 he received the Bronze prize in the Communications & Trends
67 Metal Art Exhibition, Beijing, and in 2007 the Award for Excellence at the 8 th China Arts & Crafts Masters Exhibition. He has exhibited in the annual Arts & Crafts Masters each year since 2005. Other recent exhibitions where his work has been shown include: the 1300th Anniversary of Nara Heijo-kyo, Japan (2010); Qiantan, The Rising Chinese Jewelry Artists Group Exhibition, Korea (2010) and Adorn, Shanghai (2009).
huangxiaowang@yahoo.com.cn
Bryony Jennings Bryony came to the BA course in 2001; during her degree course she also gained useful experience as a workshop assistant to Gill Galloway-Whitehead [41]. Her graduation year was busy with several exhibitions including Galerie Marzee at Nijmegen, Midora at Leipzig, Brilliantly Birmingham, and Rising Stars at Studio Fusion, Oxo Tower, London. After initial experience at the New Ashgate Gallery, Farnham, she was involved with Zigzag Jewellery until 2009, undertaking the various roles of designer, buyer and ultimately Creative Director for the company. During
68 this time she was selling in a number of exhibitions in London, Hampshire and Kent. In 2010 she co-founded the Pretty Scruffy Gallery in Chichester and continues her practice as a silversmith and sculptor from her workshop within the gallery.
www.prettyscruffy.com
Mikaela Lyons Mikaela is a jewellery designer and illustrator whose experience spans teaching, designing, buying, making, project co-ordination and exhibiting, both nationally and internationally. Her first involvement with the School was as a BA student, becoming a designer/buyer for the fashion jewellery and accessory company Watch This Space upon graduation in 2004. She continues in this post, which has provided experience of buying and oversight of mass production in the Philippines, China and India. Her freelance design practice also continues, including a recent
69 design consultancy for Cebu Homecraft and a performance piece for the theatre company The Other Way Works. Mikaela returned to the School for her MA (2008 – 09) which has led to exhibitions in Manchester (String of Passion – 2009); Birmingham (Brilliantly Birmingham, showcase artist – 2009 – 10); Munich (Inhorgenta – 2010 and Life’s A Bench – 2010 & 2011); Bristol (Enchanted – Diana Porter Gallery – 2010) and Saltaire (Into Flora – Kath Libbert Gallery – 2010). Since 2010 she has been a visiting lecturer at the School of Jewellery. www.mikaelalyons.com
Betty Pepper Upon graduation in 2004 Betty gained numerous awards and prizes including the Emma Jessie Phipps, the Louisa Ann Ryland and the BJA Design prize. She was jeweller-inresidence at Oakham School, Rutland for 3 months until gaining an early and significant commission from the National Trust in Birmingham. This work helped to promote the Trust’s newly opened property – the Birmingham Back to Backs. Within only a few years her reputation has spread as has her output. Though each of her pieces is unique her narratives are thoughtful and varied. Her characteristic
70 combination of embroidered fabric and old books is well known and much respected. She contributes to an average of one UK exhibition per month and also undertakes specific commissions and projects. Her work is currently seen in several galleries in the UK as well as Galeria Artesania, Tokyo and Topkapi, Rennes.
www.bettypepper.co.uk
Supavee Sirin-k-raporn Since 1996 Supavee has been a full-time lecturer in the Department of Jewellery Design at Silpakorn University, Bangkok, and is now Assistant Professor. Her first degree was in ceramics from Silpakorn and she came to England to take classes at Central St Martins and her Masters at the Royal College of Art (1999). She gained her Doctorate at BIAD with the subject Jewellery Making as an Aid to Communicating with Deaf Children in Thailand (2004). Her research projects are numerous and include most recently: The Post-Modernist Art Jewellery – Case Study (Silpakorn Research Institute
71
2010); Life and Wisdom of the Mae Mee Community, Lampang (Contemporary Art & Culture Institute, Thailand 2009). Supavee’s art and design practice continues and she has been represented in several exhibitions, most recently as one of six selected designers in a project Siam Twist, (Thailand Creative Centre 2011) and also Artist and Designer’s Creation (Bangkok Art Gallery 2010). In 2011 she gained the Primary Creative Award (Functional Creations), awarded by Thailand’s Ministry of Commerce.
www.supavee.com
Kezhen Wang Kezhen’s first degree, which he completed in 1999, was in Decorative Art and Design from Nanjing Institute of Art & Design in China. Commencing an MA at the School in 2003 enabled him to pursue an interest in hand raised metal forms. In the year following his graduation from this course he gained two awards from the Goldsmiths Craft & Design Council and another when his work was exhibited at Beijing’s Chinese Contemporary Crafts exhibition. He is now a teacher at the Nanjing Institute, where he started their first metal crafts workshop. As well as producing individual items
72 Kezhen has established the first Chinese on-line organisation for contemporary crafts – www.nooca.me and is chief curator/organiser of the biennial Non-Craftsman exhibition held in Nanjing. His work has been exhibited in Nanjing, Xi An, Beijing, Shanghai, and most recently in the Sailing to the Future exhibition in Nara, Japan, of contemporary work from China, Japan and Korea.
manganese_works@msn.com
Louise Evans Two years after graduating from her BA course in Silversmithing and Jewellery at Leicester, Louise was working as a volunteer at the Birmingham Museums & Art Gallery. Within a year she was Deputy Curator-Manager of the Museum of the Jewellery Quarter – a post she kept for nine years before becoming Curator-Manager in 2002. Though previously gaining an MA in Museum Studies, Louise joined the School’s MA programme in 2003 as a parttime student to focus on the development of her own work. This has led to several significant commissions, residencies and projects including: Hands on
73 History project (Northampton Museums & Art Gallery), Women in Farming Residency (Dartmoor), Heroes (curated by Ted Noten) - 2007; Storyscapes (Shropshire), Big Roman Draw (Housesteads Fort) – 2008; Stitch in Time (Birmingham) – 2009; Bling Jewellery (V&A Museum of Childhood) – 2010. She has exhibited at numerous fairs including, most recently, Origin and the Contemporary Craft Fair. As well as continuing her practice she has, since 2010 and until August 2011, been Artistic Director at New Brewery Arts, Cirencester. www.louisefrancesevans.com
Katharina Moch It was during her Art and English studies at the University of Education, Freiburg that Katharina took a semester’s placement at the School. She had already completed a traditional 3 year jewellery apprenticeship in Germany and sought a different, unconventional experience to aid her future career in jewellery. When her Freiburg course finished, she returned to Birmingham for her MA, where she experimented further with her vocabulary of organic form and innovative materials. She creates flamboyant, sculptural and wearable pieces that combine ambivalent aspects
74 of appeal and repulsion. On graduation, having won the Louisa Anne Ryland travel scholarship (2009) she won special commendation in the World Craft Council (Europe) Young Talent Prize, and had her work in the European Prize for Applied Art Exhibition in Mons, Belgium. In 2010 Katharina had a number of exhibitions including Talente and also Life’s a bench at Studio K162, both being part of the International Trade Fair in Munich.
www.katharinamoch.com
Shivani Patel Shivani came to the School’s BA course after her foundation at Hereford, and graduated in 2005 with a First and the Jewellery Prize awarded by the British Jewellers Association. Having completed the post-graduate Design Space programme in the Jewellery Quarter, she now runs her own studio and gallery in Worcestershire. She works mainly with 22ct gold, contrasting its soft rich qualities with white gold and gemstones, on themes that derive from Mughal architecture, particularly geometric patterned tiles. Though much of her work
75 is privately commissioned she has shown at several exhibitions including: Origin, London (2006, 07 & 08); Dazzle, Edinburgh and London (2009 & 10); Contemporary Craft Fairs, Hereford (2006 & 09), Bovey Tracey (2009); Goldsmiths Fair, London (2010) and the Roger Bilcliffe Gallery, Glasgow (2010). Other venues include: Newark; West Dean; Birmingham; Pershore; Yorkshire Sculpture Park; Oxford; and a private show at the British Consulate’s residence, Chicago in 2009.
www.shivanijewellery.co.uk
Jo Pond For four years after graduating from her BA degree at Loughborough Jo was a selfemployed jeweller – trading as ‘Tomfoolery’. In 1995 she returned to Loughborough as a Technical Tutor – a position that was to continue until 2008. Starting the MA as a part-time student in 2004 enabled Jo to take a different direction with her work. She is now concerned that her wearables should be vehicles for communication – exploring ambivalent perceptions of personal beauty and their consequential relationships between wearer and viewer. The value of this work was recognised in 2005 when she
76 won the award for Product & Genius as part of the Birmingham Design Initiative’s Industry & Genius Awards. Selected exhibitions include: ITAMI, Japan; SOFA, Chicago; Paradigma, Barcelona and Beijing (2009) plus others in the following venues: Tokyo, Amsterdam, Shanghai, Hamburg (2008); Munich, Padua, Leeds, London, Legnica (2007). After some part-time teaching at the School she became a full-time lecturer there in 2008.
www.jopond.com
Vicky Sewart Victoria’s first involvement with the School was between 1988 and 1990 when she completed the Higher National Diploma (Design Crafts) in Jewellery. Upon graduation she established her freelance practice in Plymouth designing and making jewellery and exhibiting at venues such as the Spring Fair, NEC, Top Drawer, IJL, and the British Craft Trade Show at Harrogate. For ten years she lectured on jewellery at Plymouth College of Art & Design; the last two years being enriched by her attendance as a part-time student on the School’s MA programme. Since 2006 she has been
77 the owner and manager of the first gallery for contemporary jewellery in Plymouth – situated in a prime location at the Barbican. She sells collections from over 40 designers who, between them, use the full range of materials – diamonds to feathers. Local designers are well represented and the provision of space allows Victoria to offer a range of jewellery making classes in the workshop on the top floor.
www.victoriasewart.com
Shadi Vossough Shadi came to the School in 2002 for the BA course, returning two years after graduation to study for her MA as a part time student. Since 2009, and the completion of this course, she has lived in Keswick, Cumbria, where her practice continues. Her current work layers colour and images with resin to make wearable objects. Each piece is unique though based on a fragment of her body and, while giving the impression of a tattoo, usually draws the viewer’s attention with an unusual placement. Her work has been shown as part of ‘Life Lines’ at Siamo Qui, Florence (2008) and
78 ‘Autumn Leaves’ at String of Passion, Manchester, as well as ‘Badgingham’ in Taking Time: Craft and the Slow Revolution, BMAG (both 2009). In 2010 Shadi was selected for the Talente exhibition at the Handwerk Messe, Munich. This city is also the venue for exhibitions featuring her alumni group – Life’s a Bench – showing at the Schmuck festival each year since 2009.
(www.crafthaus.ning.com/) shadivossough@yahoo.co.uk
Sian Hughes When Sian graduated from the BA course in June 2006 her work quickly gained recognition. In July, at the New Designers graduate exhibition she won the Contemporary Applied Arts (CAA) award and over the following six months was exhibiting in London (Percy Street, Brick Lane, and the Barbican); Birmingham (FLUX ); and Leeds (ND Showcase). Until April 2007 she was Artist in Residence at Bilston Craft Gallery and then established her workshop in the Jewellery Quarter. Sian has exhibited each year since 2006 with the Designer Jewellers Group at the Barbican as well as Dazzle in
79 London, Manchester, Glasgow and Edinburgh (2007-11); Chelsea Craft Show (2008); MADE, Brighton and Yorkshire Sculpture Park (2008-09); Contemporary Craft Fair, Bovey Tracey (2010) and Made by Hand, Tredegar (2010). A Graduate Award enabled her to show at Goldsmiths Fair in 2009, and she returned to show in the 2010 event. Her work is currently stocked by Contemporary Applied Arts, London and regularly exhibited at Yorkshire Sculpture Park and Leeds Craft & Design Gallery.
www.sianelizabethhughes.co.uk
Esther Lord Esther’s involvement with the School started in 2002 as a BA student. She progressed to the MA followed by a two year residency under the Crafts Council’s Next Move programme. As a student she gained a number of awards and bursaries from the Goldsmiths Company and the BJA. From her original workshop in the Quarter, and new one in Ironbridge, Shropshire, she has contributed to many exhibitions, including the group show Side by Side, Edge to Edge which toured Finland and the UK between 2009 and 2011. Showing in Munich in 2007 Esther won the Talente Prize for Excellence in Design as well as
80 the Bavarian State Prize. This has led to regular exhibitions in this city as well as London, where she has shown at Goldsmiths Fair every year since 2007, and Origin in 2008 and 2009. Other venues in the UK include Glasgow, Swansea, Edinburgh, and Sheffield. Her work has been purchased for permanent collections in the Museum of Modern Art & Design, Munich and the Goldsmiths Company, London.
www.estherlord.com
Toni Mayner Toni’s involvement with the School started on the Design Crafts course where she gained three Distinctions; the Marcia Lanyon Prize for Innovative Use of Gemstones; the HAN Jewellery Prize and the Cooksons Precious Metals Prize (2004). She progressed to the BA course, gaining a First, and a Goldsmiths Precious Metals Award. In this year she was also successful with an AHRC award and a Birmingham Assay Office Award, enabling her to study for her Masters, which was completed in 2007, also benefitting from a Goldsmiths Precious Metal Bursary. Toni then undertook
81 a one year silversmithing masterclass, Silver in Motion, at Schoonhoven, Netherlands, funded by Arts Council England. Her design practice continues in Birmingham and she is a lecturer at the School of Jewellery. Her recent exhibitions include The JAMES Days, Munich (2011); Flux, Birmingham (2009-10); Decadence, Legnica, Poland (2009-10); Silver with a Pinch of Salt, London (2009). She is a member of JAMES, a group of six international artists who exhibit together annually.
tambirmingham@yahoo.co.uk
Pei Nap Mok Pei-Nap gained his first jewellery experience on a diploma course at Tongji University, Shanghai. The following year he qualified as a Fellow of the Gemmological Association (FGA) of Great Britain. The same year, 2002, he commenced the BA course at the School, progressing to the MA programme in 2005. His design and craft skills were recognised at this time by several national awards: Goldsmiths Craft & Design Council 2004 – two Gold Awards; 2005 – one Gold and one Silver Award plus a Commendation. Also in 2005 he won the Louisa
82 Anne Ryland Scholarship and the BJA Prize for Design. While on the MA, Pei designed part-time for Firmin & Sons in Birmingham which led, in 2007, to his current post at London Badge & Button Company, based in Birmingham. This covers fine jewellery and men’s accessories for leading fashion brands in the UK. Selected personal commissions include designs for the Sheriff of the City of London, St Pauls Cathedral, and the Master of the Worshipful Company of Farmers.
mok_pei_nap@hotmail.com
Veerawat Sirivesmas Veerawat is Head of the Department of Jewellery Design at Silpakorn University, Bangkok, Thailand, where he has been lecturing since 1996. He gained his BA in 1994 from Silpakorn and then, with the benefit of scholarships from the Italian Government, spent a number of years in Italy achieving a Certificate in Sculpture in Florence and a Diploma in Jewellery Design in Milan, before coming to Birmingham for his MPhil and PhD. A scholarship from the Thai Government enabled completion of his doctorate in 2006 which was titled A New Model of Instruction and
83 Learning in Contemporary Jewellery Education. While in Italy he worked in the Milan studios of Zucchi and Elio Ferrari, as well as the Siena workshop of Valerio Passerini and is now a design consultant for several Thai companies and institutions. Veerawat’s work has been exhibited in a number of group shows in Bangkok and his research profile includes directorship of the PROJECT GLITZ – Platform for Innovation in Jewellery Manufacturing (2008-10).
ajarnwat@yahoo.com
Abigail Stradling Abigail graduated from the BA course in 2006. One aspect of her final collection was the use of glass spheres to showcase and preserve a variety of natural objects. Her interest in glass as a medium continued with travel to Australia in 2007 as an artist in residence, with placements at ANU and Gray Street Workshops, Sydney. One particular highlight has been her selection to show in the British Glass Biennale, International Festival of Glass in 2008. Her glass adornments have been exhibited in London and Birmingham, and continue to be shown
84 in Canberra and Adelaide. Now back in the UK, she continues to design and make but also has a full time job as manager of the Allum & Sidaway retail outlet in Salisbury; heading their bespoke design service. In 2011 she gained a distinction in the National Association of Goldsmiths Professional Jewellers’ Diploma programme with the highest overall marks in the country. For this achievement she was awarded the Greenough Trophy.
www.abigailstradling.co.uk
Ruth Wood After graduating from her BA degree in Jewellery & Silversmithing in 2006 Ruth did the post-graduate training at Bishopsland Educational Trust in Dunsden, South Oxfordshire, gaining a Precious Metals Bursary. She attended the Getting Started business course run by the Goldsmiths Company and, in 2009, received two bursaries for the development of her business and website; one from the Arts Council, the other from Creative Leicestershire. As a self-employed designer maker she has featured in numerous shows including: Origin, London (2009 & 10); Gift, Farnham (2006
85 & 07); Collect, V&A, London (2007); Topdrawer, Earls Court (2007); Lustre, Nottingham (2008 & 09); Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair, Manchester (2009); Treasure, London Jewellery Week (2010). Recent exhibition venues include: RBSA, Birmingham; Ferrers Gallery, Staunton Harold; Diana Porter Contemporary Jewellery, Bristol; Bury St. Edmunds Art Gallery; Design Factory, Lincoln (all 2010); Harley Gallery, Welbeck; 78 Derngate, Northampton; Eton Gallery, Windsor (all 2009).
www.ruth-wood.com
Claire Bevan A foundation course at Trowbridge was the starting point for Claire’s creative career. This provided a useful experience of the main areas for specialisation and she chose jewellery and silver. The BA course at Birmingham provided the opportunity to gain essential, traditional skills but also to experiment with other materials. In particular at this time the Elective programme was, for a number of students like Claire, a critical aspect for later development. From her experience with fabric in the second year her subsequent work centred on this material, alongside her use of metal.
86 She graduated in 2007 with a number of exhibitions including Design City at the NEC. She progressed to an MA Textile Design at Chelsea College of Art exhibiting at ‘One Year On’, London; Sara Preisler Gallery, Birmingham and ‘Get Fresh’ at the Devon Guild of Craftsmen. She currently works as Design Assistant to Neisha Crosland in London.
www.clairebevan.co.uk
Lisa Juen Lisa was raised in south west Germany, gaining practical goldsmithing experience before commencing her studies at the Fachochschule Trier, Idar Oberstein in 2003. After two years she transferred to Birmingham for her final year of the degree course. Completing the BA with a First, a Louisa Anne Ryland Scholarship and a Goldsmiths Craft & Design commendation, she progressed to the School’s MA, her work being featured in the promotion for Brilliantly Birmingham 2007. Since 2009 she has been working in Shanghai – where she runs the Contemporary
87 Jewellery Foundation course at the Academy for International Visual Arts (AIVA). Her own work ‘shows a bit of the daily craziness surrounding me in my new Chinese home’ and has been shown in exhibitions worldwide – Tokyo, Portland, Nanjing, Santa Fe, Shanghai, Birmingham, Munich, Hamburg, Salts Mill and Florence. She has been a finalist for the BKV – Prize, Kunstmesse, Munich each year from 2008 and also participated in the JAMES series of exhibitions arising from the 2007 MA cohort. www.lisa-juen.com
Theresa Nguyen While she was still a student on the BA course (2004-07), Theresa was establishing her reputation as a designer and silversmith. Winning the Goldsmiths’ Young Designer-Silversmith Award in 2005 was an encouraging start to her career. Awards from the British Jewellers Association (2005, 06 & 07), Pewterers Company (2006) and, from BIAD, the George Jackson Travel Bursary, reinforced everyone’s perceptions. Upon graduation she completed a post-graduate year at Bishopsland before returning to the Jewellery Quarter to establish her studio and workshop.
88 Theresa continues to gain prizes, especially in the annual Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Awards – winning a Gold and a Silver in each year, 2008 and 2009, as well as undertaking a number of important commissions and contributing to several exhibitions each year. Her work is in the collections of the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths (2008, 09); the Pearson Collection; Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery; and has recently been shown at Collect (2008–10), Goldsmiths Fair (2009,10) and Mindful of Silver (2011). www.theresanguyen.co.uk
Jonathan Olliffe It was during his BA course at the School that Jonathan’s interest in larger scale work developed. His final collection indicated his controlled use of sheet fabrication methods with a number of clean and precise, functional silver objects. Progressing to the MA programme in 2007 he was able to focus on various new smithing techniques; changing his approach to allow the exposure of both structure and technique as well as the introduction of materials not often associated with precious metals. During his postgraduate course he gained a Louisa Anne Ryland Travel
89 Scholarship which enabled him to be accepted as Artist in Residence at Sydney College of Art, Australia. In 2010 he was a winner of the Royal Mint ‘Fifty Pence Piece’ National Design Competition, in collaboration with the London 2012 Olympics. Coins bearing his two designs are now being minted. His work has been shown at Talente, Munich and the Royal Mint Museum, Wales. He continues his design practice in Oxfordshire.
www.jonathanolliffe.com
Leila Arzaghi After a three year Diploma and a drawing course in her home of Tehran, Iran, Leila came to live in the West Midlands. She commenced a foundation course at Wolverhampton followed by a BA at the School, which was completed in 2008 with a Precious Metals Bursary and a First. In the year after graduation Leila took part in several exhibitions and selling shows; in Munich, Harrogate, Sheffield, and London’s Treasure and Origin. Her work, which has been featured in Craft magazine (Sept 2010) is concerned with the fleeting moments of time. She
90 wishes to remind the wearer, and viewer, of the beauty of the moment by transforming memories from feelings to tactile and tangible objects. Selected group exhibitions include those held at Tredegar House, Newport; Spinningfields, Manchester; Wormbridge, Hereford; Aston, Henley on Thames (2010); Studio Green, Munich (2010 & 2011); Studio Fusion, London and mac, Birmingham (2011). Leila continues her practice in the West Midlands.
www.leilaarzaghi.com
Annie Cracknell In 2007, during the second year of her degree course, Annie took part in an exchange with the Fachochschule at Idar-Oberstein in Germany. One of the centre’s strengths is lapidary work and Annie became hooked! Her final year collection featured the use of rutile quartz stones (sponsored by C.W.Sellors), and led directly to her gaining the Hean Studio Award for ‘Best Use of Gemstones’ as well as 1st prize in the national Innovation in Gemstones Design awarded by Marcia Lanyon. Since graduating she has been designing and making her jewellery within the ‘Alloy’ group based in Hereford:
91 from whom she has gained significant sponsorship including a bursary. She exhibits in their own gallery as well as a number of other group and solo shows. In 2010 she gained a commendation for lapidary at Goldsmiths Craft & Design Awards and was awarded the Gem-A Scholarship.
www.anniecracknell.com
Christiana Joeckel Christiana started her career with a 3 year goldsmithing apprenticeship in Munich, following which in 1983, she studied jewellery design with Professor Ruediger Lorenzen as a guest student at the Staatliche Zeichenakademie, Hanau. Since then she has established her practice in Munich with a number of exhibitions throughout Germany. Attendance at a number of jewellery classes with Erico Nagai at the Akademie fuer Gestaltung, Handwerkskammer, Munich between 2005/07 not only stimulated a fresh look at the subject, but also
92 introduced her to the MA course at Birmingham which she followed in 2007/08. After graduation she contributed to a number of exhibitions in Hannover, Deggendorf and Stuttgart. She has managed and curated exhibitions in Munich related to Schmuck – a significant part of the annual Internationalen Handwerksmesse.
christiana.joeckel@yahoo.de
Heidi Hinder Before embarking on her BA at the School, Heidi had completed a degree in English Literature and followed a freelance career in television production. An early success (in the first year of her course!) was the winning design, and subsequent manufacture, of a commemorative medal for the RSA. During her course she also gained a Precious Metal Bursary and the Emma Jessie Phipps Award. Since graduation in 2008 Heidi has exhibited in several European venues – Munich, Bristol, Amsterdam and London, and contributed to a number of publications.
93 For two years she was an Artist in Residence at the School – achieving many things including a commemorative neckpiece celebrating the Jewellery Quarter commissioned by BMAG, which is in their permanent collection. In 2010 she won the New Medallist Artist position which has entailed a number of European visits, placements and a commission from the Goldsmiths Company. In 2012 three of her medals will be displayed at the V&A.
heidi.hinder@gmail.com
Clare Pardoe Clare was brought up in Dubai and she joined the BA programme at the School after her Art Foundation course at Bournemouth. She graduated in 2008 after being awarded a Precious Metal Bursary in her final year. Deciding to stay in Birmingham she gained useful business and marketing experience on the Design Space incubation scheme and also as manager of the David Louis Project gallery. She was also a freelance designer at this time, selling through retail and wholesale shows and gaining various awards including two at British Silver Week. Her work is sold throughout the U.K.
94 In 2010 she returned to Dubai where she launched Phioro – a luxury jewellery house that specialises in exclusively commissioned pieces and limited editions.
www.phioro.com
Laura Brannon After her Foundation course at Kidderminster Laura commenced the BA programme in 2006. She was awarded the BJA Prize for her first year and received a Goldsmiths Company Silver Grant in her final year. Her work was shown at London’s Pewterers Hall (Pewter Live 2008) and Goldsmiths Hall (Silver with a Pinch of Salt 2009) before she progressed to the MA course. Before graduating from this course in 2010, she participated in Tablemanners at Silke and the Gallery, Antwerp (2010) and was selected to show at Talente, Munich (2010). She continues her practice as a designer maker in
95 Birmingham, creating ‘ jewellery that is grotesque yet intriguing’. Her work, made from rubber, plastic, foam and found objects, combines elements of play and fear; proving unsettling for the viewer who has to engage with two contradictory themes.
laura_brannon@hotmail.co.uk
Ann-Marie Carey Ann-Marie’s first degree in jewellery design from Central St. Martins (1994) was followed by a collaborative Masters with the Royal College of Art and the Laser Laboratory at the University of Liverpool. This collaboration with the University of Liverpool continued throughout her studies at the School, leading to the award of her doctorate in 2010. The doctorate explored the development of laser surface ornamentation; the creative and disruptive potential of laser marking and welding. Ann-Marie joined the Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre in 1997. With over ten
96 years’ experience of laser application in the jewellery industry she is regularly asked to disseminate this expertise to colleagues and students. Since 2009 she has been a Research Fellow at BIAD, focussing on the design opportunities enabled through new processes. She has contributed to several publications and exhibitions as well as presenting papers at forums in Vicenza (2011) and Santa Fe (2010). The result of recent research collaboration with Martyn Pugh [7] was presented at the School in January 2011. ann-marie.carey@bcu.ac.uk
Hannah Fewtrell-Bolton After her National Diploma Foundation at Bournville, Hannah started her BA course at the School in 2005. This course provided a range of influences and a variety of stimuli resulting, in 2008, her work being shown in London at the contrasting events of Pewter Live and the catwalk at Graduate Fashion Week. The latter related to accessories she designed for fashion designer Niamh O’Connor, also featured in the Chinese magazine Yoho! She progressed, as a parttime student, to the MA course which she completed in 2011. Hannah’s new work explores the concept of the
97
inner child through extensive material experiment, colour and composition; creating pieces that have a playful personality and aesthetic. She now looks forward to a career in the international contemporary jewellery arena.
hannah-chantelle@hotmail.co.uk
Gemma Holz Before Gemma came to the School’s BA programme she had been involved for a number of years designing and selling in Birmingham’s jewellery and accessory trade. She also produced promotional graphic material, especially for local musicians and promotions. In 2010 she completed the Design Space incubation programme; designing, marketing and promoting her own ranges of jewellery, which have subsequently been shown at Harrogate Craft Fair; Treasure at London Jewellery Week and the Work Gallery in London’s Brick Lane. Gemma has also participated in
98 Inhorgenta – Munich’s international trade fair. Her practice continues in the Jewellery Quarter and she also sells her ranges in the Museum of the Jewellery Quarter as a resident designer.
gemmaelizabethholz@gmail.com
Kathryn Partington Kathryn produces one-off wearable items of jewellery by utilising her background training within the discipline of tableware ceramics and printed textiles. Her first degree was in Surface Pattern, completed in 1999 at Staffordshire University. She progressed to their MA in Ceramic Design before employment as a designer with Wedgwood of Stoke-on-Trent. In 2005 she commenced the MA at the School; her subsequent jewellery direction being acknowledged with the Crafts Council award of inclusion on the Next Move scheme. This provided
99 placement at the School for two years which Kathryn followed in 2009 as one of the Artists in Residence. Her practice is in the Jewellery Quarter where she continues to combine hand dyed silks, bone china and silver in unconventional ways. Selected recent exhibitions include The James Days, Munich; Five of a Kind, Graz & Munich; Flux, Birmingham; Lustre, Nottingham; Origin, London; DAZZLE, Edinburgh, Glasgow and London. Stockists of her work include: Alternatives Gallery, Rome; Topkapi, France; and the Electrum Gallery, London. www.kathrynpartington.com
Chris Hay Chris came to the School’s HND course in 2007 after an eight year period working in a jewellery workshop/retail outlet in Bridgwater. This had provided invaluable commercial experience and all essential aspects of hand manufacture. His interest in computeraided design developed during the HND course, leading to First Prize in the Use of New Technology category of the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Awards. At the same time his craft skills were recognised with the award of two prizes for jewellery mounting from the BJA. His work was sufficiently strong enough at this point to mount a one-man show at the
100 offices of Edexcel in London. He progressed to the BA course where in 2010, the year of his graduation, he gained another Craft & Design Award – this time Silver. He also designed a new William Wallace Medal for the School of Fine Art and received a Precious Metal Bursary. He graduated from the MA programme in September 2011.
info@christopherhay.co.uk
Afterword Although I am solely responsible for this rather ambitious project it could not have happened without the comprehensive backing of its sponsors and supporters. I extend my grateful thanks to them and all at SMILE studio
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for their contribution. My thanks go also to current staff and students of the School, and others in the university, who have helped in a variety of ways. Special thanks must go to my wife, for having to show even more patience than
usual over a long period. While my professional career has been enriched by all the wonderful colleagues that it has been my pleasure, and honour, to work alongside, my biggest debt, of course, is to forty years’ worth of
students – you are All Golds. In Memoriam: Derek Birch (1941-2011) - who shared numerous experiences with me and contributed to the development of so many of the exhibitors.
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