WEARME FA S H I O N Designers TALK INNOVATIVE SUSTAINABLE FABRICS
TREND REPORT
WHY SUSTAINABILITY MATTERS.
The Saga of
SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Why Sustainability M AT T E R S “ T h e c h a l l e n g e n o w is not one of
e x p a n s i o n b u t s e l f - containment: a
s e r i e s o f p r o b l e m s with which the all-
c o n q u e r i n g m a l e i s ill-equipped to deal. We , H o m o s a p i e n s , h ave never before h a d t o f a c e t h e p r o blem of our own
i n s t i n c t s t h r e a t e n i n g our continued
e x i s t e n c e ; t h e y h a v e always been for
o u r b e n e f i t , t h e s u r vival of our genes.
T h e f r o n t i e r s w e f a ce now lie not on the h o r i z o n – o r e v e n i n space – but inside our own minds.”
- I a n M o r t i mer, Human Race: 10
C e n t u r i e s of Change on Earth.
W h a t i s a t s t a k e h e r e, as historian Ian
M o r t i m e r a r g u e s , i s the future existence o f h u m a n l i f e o n E a r t h; human activity r e m a i n s a n u n p r e c e d ented threat to
f u t u r e g e n e r a t i o n s . S ince our population i s e x p e c t e d t o g r o w from 7 billion to
9 . 5 b i l l i o n , a r a t e o f 1.2% a year, the
i n c r e a s e d n e e d f o r natural resources
s u c h a s f r e s h w a t e r , farmland, forests, a n d e n e r g y h a s c r e a ted a need to act
u r g e n t l y i n o r d e r t o create responsible
a n d s u s t a i n a b l e s o l u tions for our future.
OUR FOOTPRINT
“ I f w e c r a m m e d t h e history of our planet i n t o a y e a r , h u m a n s w ould have existed f o r t h e l a s t 2 3 m i n u t es, but consumed o n e - t h i r d o f r e s o u r c es in the last 0.2
s e c o n d s ” , r e p o r t s S ygenta . This means, i f w e c o n t i n u e t o u s e resources and
g e n e r a t e w a s t e a t t h e same rate we’ve b e e n d o i n g s i n c e t h e 20th century, by
3 WEARME.FASHION
RESOURCE SHORTAGE Re s our ce shor tage s a re evide n t
e v e ryw her e. As o f toda y, 40% of th e
w o rl d’ s far m land is se rio u sly degrade d .
F u rt h er m or e, oceans are ove rfish e d a n d
ra i n f o r ests ar e ra pidly disappearing w h ile o n e in thr ee people a re a ffe c ted by wa t e r s c a rcity and ne arly one billion people
s u f f er fr om hunge r. This lack of re sourc e s
m a n ages to exist in tande m with e n o rmo u s w a s t e. A thir d of the world’s fo o d
pro duction i s lost o r wasted so mewh e re i n t h e supply ch a in a n d o ver half o f t h e
f o o d pur chased a c ross Euro pe a n d the US i s s i m ply thr own awa y. This represe n t s a
w a s t e of land, wa ter, inpu ts and la bor t h a t go e s into the cultivation, ma rke tin g a n d s a l e s of al l of th is fo o d.
I n a ddi tion to this ma n y millions of ga llo n s o f w a ter ar e l ost due to pipe leaks.
F i n a lly, a m illion tons of house h o ld wa s t e
i s s ent to l andfills, while yet a million mo re t o n s ar e bur ned o r e xpo rte d to poore r
c o u n tr i es w her e the h a zardous su bst a n c e s i n t h e w aste put pe o ple ’s health a n d o u r e c o s ystem at r i s k.
An o t her big i ssue rela tes to huma n ity ’s
h e a v y r el i ance on fossil fuels such a s c o a l o i l a nd gas for energy. T h is is e vident ly
a f f e cti ng the climate , c a u sin g risin g s e a l e v e ls, m or e severe storms and floods ,
l o n ger dr oughts and th e spre a d o f tro p ic a l di s e ases. Accordin g to HE C Globa l
Le a r n ing Cent re, by 2 0 3 0 , the world’s e n e rgy needs are expecte d to be 5 0 %
gre a ter than toda y, bu t a t the same time , s c i e n tists ar e ca lling fo r massive a n d
i m mediate r eductions in th e greenhous e 4 WEARME.FASHION
change.
A s h o c k in g t wis t is t h a t t h e s e c o n d
mo s t p o llu t in g in d u s t ry , a f t e r o il, is t h e
f a s h io n in d u s t ry . I t c o n t rib u t e s ma s s i v e l y t o re s o u rc e s e x p lo it a t io n a n d wa s t e
g e n e ra t io n . T h e wa t e r v o lu me c o n s u m e d b y t h e f a s h io n in d u s t ry t o d a y is a lre a d y
la rg e wit h n e a rly 7 9 b illio n c u b ic m e t e r s , e n o u g h t o f ill n e a rly 3 2 millio n O ly m p i c -
s iz e s wimmin g p o o ls , a c c o rd in g t o G l o b a l F a s h i o n Ag e n d a a n d it will in c re a s e b y 5 0 % b y 2 0 3 0 . T h e in d u s t ry ’s CO 2
e mis s io n s a re p ro je c t e d t o in c re a s e a s we ll b y mo re t h a n 6 0 % a n d t h e s a m e p e rc e n t a g e a p p ly t o wa s t e c re a t io n.
SHAPING OUR FUTURE E v e ry c h o ic e we ma k e h a s c o n s e q u e n c e s : t h e f o o d we e a t , t h e c lo t h e s we we a r ,
t h e p ro d u c t s we b u y a n d t h e wa s t e w e
g e n e ra t e u s e u p n a t u ra l re s o u rc e s a n d
a f f e c t o u r e n v iro n me n t , wh ic h u lt im a t e l y a f f e c t u s . A lt h o u g h , wit h in h u ma n ’s
a c t io n s la y t h e c a u s e s , f o rt u n a t e ly e n o u g h
la y a ls o p o s s ib le wa y s o u t , we ju s t n e e d t o a s k o u rs e lv e s h o w t o t u rn t h e c h a lle n g e s o f s c a rc it y a n d wa s t e in t o o p p o rt u ni t i e s . I t c a n b e d o n e : f o r in s t a n c e , in 2 0 13 , re n e wa b le e n e rg y me t a f if t h o f t h e
wo rld ’s e n e rg y d e ma n d s ; t o d a y , p a p e r i s
t h e mo s t re c y c le d p ro d u c t in E u ro p e , w i t h a re c y c lin g ra t e o f 7 2 % a n d a 5 0 % f u e l
e f f ic ie n c y imp ro v e me n t c a n b e a c h i e v e d
t h ro u g h c u rre n t t e c h n o lo g ie s a n d p o l i c i e s by 2050.
A s we s h a p e d o u r p a s t a n d a re s h ap i n g o u r p re s e n t , we c a n a ls o s h a p e o u r
f u t u re b y a c t in g mo re re s p o n s ib ly an d s u s t a in a b ly .
E D ITOR : C H R IS A LLB R ITTON
T h o u gh, w e onl y have one.
o f e n e rg y a n d a re t h e c a u s e o f c lim a t e
IN TE RV IEW: S A R A V OLPI
t w o p lanets.
g a s e mis s io n s t h a t c o me f ro m o u r us e
P H OTOG R AP H Y: M IC H AE L H A LL, “ MOU N TA IN OF P LA S TI C” CE N TR A L C HI N A
2 0 3 0 w e w i l l need th e equ iva lent spac e o f
Why You Need to Ca re a bout the Footpr int
What will an award winning photographer and the First Creative Fellow make of our discovery questions?
Featuring Michael Hall
a b o u t b e i n g v e r y f r i g htened about where
W h a t i n s p i r e d y o u t o start exploring
t h e h u m a n i m p a c t o n the environment t h r o u g h y o u r p h o t o g raphy? I n 2 0 0 6 , I w a s o u t f o r a job in the Northern T e r r i t o r y , i n A u s t r a l i a. I was with my
b r o t h e r a n d w e w e r e walking in this very
h o t w e a t h e r w h e n h e mentioned something t h e w o r l d w a s g o i n g , in terms of climate c h a n g e . T h a t ’ s p r o b ably the first time I
5 WEARME.FASHION
t o o k notice of what wa s goin g o n , so I
di d m or e and more re searc h . I sta rte d u n der standi ng I can pla y a ro le in
pe o pl e’s awar en e ss be ing a visual
c o m munity gui d e r: a photo gra pher. At t he tim e, I w as sort o f gra pplin g for
s o m e thi ng that wa s meanin gfu l to me a n d c l i mate change just seeme d the logica l
c o n c lusi on. I ha d a lre a dy trave lle d a g re a t de a l to di ffer ent c o u n tries and differe n t
e n v i ronm ents and I fe lt I had a fairly g o o d u n der standi ng of weath e r. Ve ry so o n a f t e r I c a m e to those re a lisations, I sta rte d
go i n g thr ough my photo gra phs and fo u n d s o m e pictur es I had ta ken in the Albu r y
Wo d o nga ar ea o f A u stralia, of th is drie d -
u p ri ver bed w i th skele ton tre e s. It seeme d v e ry peculiar to me because I to o k the m a n d I knew they were qu ite re sembling i m a ges, but I some h o w didn’t really
c o n n ect the dots, I didn’t u n dersta n d wh a t s i g n i fi cance these pic ture s h a d u n til t h a t m o m ent. I guess I so rt of had a sudd e n re a l i s ati on, l i ke an e piphany, this gave m e t he ener gy to start making plans to
t ra v el and photogra ph diffe rent aspect s o f P H OTOG R AP H Y: MIC H A E L H AL L, A LB URY W OD ON GA , AU S TR A I LI A
c l i mate change a round th e wo rld. W h a t is your f a v orite ty pe of
e n v i r onm ent t o photogra ph and why ? I re a lly l ove photograph ing de serts an d i c e , pr i m ar ily because my a e sth e tic is
v e ry m i nim al and th e se two enviro n me n t s a re ver y m uch so , they give me
a n i ncr edi bl e sense of space a n d
o p t i mism . But prima rily I lo ve the n a t u ra l
e n v i ronm ent m ore th a n anythin g, I lo v e t h e u n t o u ched w or ld, like ancie n t fore sts , it m a k e s m e feel po sitive a n d a live.
D i d you exper ience a ny c onc rete
c h a nges in per ceptions or a n a waken i n g a mong som e visitors?
6 WEARME.FASHION
7 WEARME.FASHION
Ev e ryone is di ffe rent and has differe n t
mo s t a f f e c t e d c o u n t rie s lik e B a n g la d e s h ,
live in smaller houses, in a suburb where
t h e audi ence comin g u p talkin g to me
t h e mo s t a wa re o f t h e c lima t e c h a n g e
of hopping in the car.
k n o wl edge, but I o fte n have pe o ple in
a b o ut how they are ge tting a bit more o f a n u n der standi ng of wh a t’s h a ppe n ing
i n t h e w or ld and abo u t what th e y c a n d o s i n gul ar ly to have a lighte r footprint. I
f e e l w e ar e al l sort o f e ducating ours e lv e s t h ro u gh ar ts and me dia , wheth e r it be
do c um entar y films or bo o ks. Is our nee d f o r a war eness th a t is actu a lly goin g t o c h a n ge our w ays.
P h ilip p in e s a n d Ch in a , f o r in s t a n c e , a r e
b e c a u s e t h e y a re liv in g wit h it o n a d a y t o -d a y . I t ’s a c o n s t a n t c o n c e rn f o r t h e m
sustainability? Are there any strikingly
w e l c o m e t h e r e . I w i s hed I knew some
for others to follow?
a n i m a g e t o c e l e b r a t e, because that yard
e it h e r d o n ’t c a re o r d o n ’t c a re t o re a d u p
The huge alternative energies
r e c y c l i n g p u r p o s e s . I wanted this image to
it . O n e o f t h e mo s t imp o rt a n t t h in g s i n
China and in America mostly, or the use
t o k n o w wh e n t h e n e x t c y c lo n e o r s u p e r s t o rm is g o in g t o h it o r wh e n t h e n ex t
f lo o d will b e . T h e s e p e o p le a re e x tr e m e l y lit e ra t e wh e n it c o me s t o c lima t e c ha n g e , mo re t h a n lo t s o f we s t e rn e rs wh o ju s t
a b o u t it , o r t o e d u c a t e t h e ms e lv e s a b o u t
a re t he m ost une x pecte d a nd de pre s s i n g
re a s o n , t h e re s e e ms t o b e a p ro f o u n d
ul ti mat e condition of the E a rth? W h a t
t h e f u t u re o f t h e p la n e t , b u t f o r s o m e
di s c over ies you made ?
d is c o n n e c t io n in d e v e lo p e d c o u n t ri e s a n d a p ro f o u n d u n willin g n e s s t o c a re .
been achieved so far in terms of
a t m e i n C h i n e s e t o g et away, that I wasn’t
successful cases that give an example
C h i n e s e t o t e l l h i m t hat I wanted to take
development, like photovoltaic farms in
of wind power in countries like Denmark
g a t h e r i n g p l a s t i c a n d bailing it. I quickly
sustainable, but these changes are just not happening as fast as they should,
who are becoming energy dependent.
a d o cum entar y, but it’s a differe n t thi n g
I t h in k t e c h n o lo g y a n d in n o v a t io n a r e a
wealthy and the poor, the educated and
m o re than a half of th e wo rld’s fore sts a n d
Mu s k is d o in g wit h e le c t ric c a rs a n d w i t h
re a d about these e vents, ma ybe to se e
w i t n essing it fi r st-hand. We’ve a lre a d y lo s t t h a t ’ s like bei ng able to u se o n ly one o f
o u r l u ngs to br e a the. A lso, I ju st re c e n t ly re a d that plastic is now sh o win g u p in
o u r d r inki ng w ate r thro u ghout th e wo rld , e v e n in bottl ed wate r. Everyth ing we d o
h a s consequences and it’s just some t h in g w e n eed to be more awa re o f, ju st tu n e i n t o a new s event and we can discove r
f o r o ur sel ves th e planet it’s n o t the wa y it s h o u l d be.
wa y f o rwa rd , ju s t t h in k a b o u t wh a t E l o n t h e Hy p e rlo o p f o r p u b lic t ra n s p o rt , o r
a b o u t t h is Du t c h ma n wh o d e v e lo p ed a n
a ir f ilt e r t h a t v a c u u ms t h e p o llu t io n o u t o f t h e a ir. T h e b ig g e s t is s u e t h a t s t ill n e e d s
t o b e a d d re s s e d is me a t c o n s u mp t i o n , a s a c c o rd in g t o s o me c o u n t s , p o s s ib ly 1 8 % o f c lima t e c h a n g e is d ire c t ly a t t rib ut e d t o in d u s t ria l f a rmin g o f a n ima ls , b u t a s
E in s t e in o n c e s a id : “ No t h in g will b en e f i t h u ma n h e a lt h a n d in c re a s e t h e c h a n c e s
f o r s u rv iv a l o f lif e o n E a rt h a s mu c h a s t h e
You have docume nte d s ome critical
e v o lu t io n t o a v e g e t a ria n d ie t ” .
i n c o unt r ies like China a nd Ba nglad e s h
E v e ry s in g le d e c is io n we ma k e t h ro u g h
a w a r eness or any willingness toward
c o n s u me , wh a t we e a t , b u t t h e re a r e m a n y
e n v i r onm ent al and human condition s
on film . D id you witness a ny inc reas i n g
t h e d a y ma k e s a n imp a c t , wh a t we
c h a nge?
t h in g s we c a n d o a s in d iv id u a ls t o i m p a c t
W h a t I’ve found o u t is th a t people in t h e
v e g e t a ria n , g iv e u p p la s t ic , b u t a ls o t o
8 WEARME.FASHION
le s s , wh e t h e r is t o c y c le t o wo rk , b e c o m e
I c o u l d n ’ t e x p l a i n t h at to him.
who are making cities greener and more
enlightened innovators around the world
a n d w h o c a n p a r ti c i p a te ?
w a s j ust not exp e c tin g. it’s o n e th ing t o
b e a v e r y p o s i t i v e o ne, as I felt it was, but
A n y w a y , I s t a r t e d w alking away and when
because there are more and more people
c h a n g e c o m e s fr o m ? Wh a t c a n b e d o n e
w a s b a i l i n g p l a s t i c a nd sending it out for
for instance. Then there are many
Wh e r e d o y o u th i n k th e i m p e tu s f o r
a n c i ent for est a n d it wa s some thin g I
I p a r k e d t h e c a r a n d start wandering
a r o u n d w h e n I b u m p ed into a man yelling
a n y o n e ’s lif e is t h e ir e n v iro n me n t an d
a g o to w i tness th e de struction o f the
w o n d e r e d w h a t i t w a s all about.
What is your opinion on what has
W h a t should people know about the
I w a s i n Tasm ania a n u mbe r o f years
it’s possible to walk to the shops instead
w h e r e I s a w t h i s p l a stic yard and
in the world, people who need energy and There’s still such a disparity between the the ignorant, but if we all started thinking
I t u r n e d t h e c o r n e r t here was this man
s e t u p m y c a m e r a a n d took this exposure
a s f a s t a s I c o u l d . I d idn’t even have time t o n o t i c e w h a t t h e m an was doing but
f o r t u n a t e l y , I j u s t t o o k the image at the
r i g h t t i m e , a n d i t h a s become one of my
f a v o u r i t e s b e c a u s e i t just speaks so much a b o u t c o n s u m p t i o n a nd recycling.
about our fellow humans and took our
focus off consumptive ways and started all leading towards a cleaner, healthier environment, then it’s for everyone to
enjoy. I don’t believe that’s very far away,
it’s just that we need a revolution, but that revolution is not going to happen until
people become aware. I guess my biggest question is at what point do we have that
revolution? Is it before our world becomes so degraded that’s not worth living on it anymore, or after?»
A moment matters to share the story from first hands by Michael Hall,
“Mountain of Plastic” Central China, in the Hubei province.
I was driving down this quite degraded land when I came into this small town
9 WEARME.FASHION
P H OTOG R AP H Y: K EL LY FA J A CK “C U IDA D O” M ODE L: N AN A GH AN A
MARINA DEBRIS CREATIVELY TELLS AN IMPORTANT STORY. I NT ERV I EW: S A R A V OLPI
FR O M T RAS H T O FASHION T R EASU R E S E D ITOR : C H R IS A LLB R ITTON
W h a t l e d t o M a r i n a ’s e m b r a c e o f a r t
i t a c t u a l l y a p p e a r s o n the surface just
environment and her active campaign
w a t e r s a m p l e s t o f i n d out that there is
themed around preservation of the
l i k e a n y o t h e r p a r t o f ocean. It requires
a g a i n s t p o l l u t i o n o f E a r t h ’s o c e a n s ?
a n a l a r m i n g a m o u n t of plastic there.
Originally, Marina lived in New York City,
“For her, t h e message was clear: Ho w d id o u r oceans be co m e a rubbish bin ? ”
but eventually moved to Sydney, Australia, drawn to their beautiful beaches.
Eventually she moved back to the USA, to Venice Beach, CA and was shocked
by the amount of litter she found on the
beaches. She started to slowly collect the various refuse, but then got the idea to
create art from the refuse, inspired by her
Marina found flags and ma t e r i a l w a s h e d u p o n t h e b e a c h o n t h e 5 t h o f J u l y f ro m r e f u s e t h a t p e o p l e j u s t le a v e o n t h e b e a c h , c a t a l og u in g t h e s h e e r a mo u n t o f w a s t e f u l activity that happens on the h olid a y.
P H OTOG R AP H Y: R IC H A R D F LYN N
Old Glory
M ODE L: H AN N A H KAT J ON ES
H A I R: ER IKA S C H MID T
MA K E U P : LOR I BE N S ON
past education as a graphic designer at
B y 2 0 5 0 i t i s e s t i m a t ed that there will
t h e R h o d e I s l a n d S c h o o l o f D e s i g n. S h e
b e m o r e p l a s t i c t h a n plankton and fish.
kind of message. For her, the message
o u t n u m b e r s s o a r t brings an amazing
a rubbish bin? Upon experiencing this
S h e m e n t i o n s t h a t s he wants it to be
that worked with environmental groups
a d i s t u r b i n g i s s u e . T he tricky part, of
that inspired her, kept her going and
s t i l l a l l u r i n g . A r t i s t he only vehicle she
wanted to create work that delivered some
S h e d i s l i k e s t h e i d e a of just rolling
was clear: How did our oceans become
o p p o r t u n i t y t o b r i n g a visual to the issue.
epiphany, she started meeting people
s l i g h t l y o r q u i t e d i s t urbing because it’s
dealing specifically with ocean pollution
c o u r s e , i s f o r h e r t o m ake it disturbing but
gave her opportunity to show work at their
k n o w s f o r c o n v e y i n g the message, but
fundraisers.
f o r t u n a t e l y f o r h e r i t is the best vehicle.
Because of this, she continued to learn
W h y d i d s h e c h o o s e to use trash as raw
more about this pollution and its effect on marine life, particularly birds. This made
material for gowns?
her want to do something particularly
S h e a l w a y s h a d a t h i ng for fashion and
made from this refuse became her outlet
m a t e r i a l s s h e h a d o n hand as a natural
meaningful with her creative energy. Art
w a s a l o v e r o f f a s h i o n. She just used the
for this creative energy.
s t e p . T h e f i r s t g a r m e nt she made was
How can art help people understand
i s d e v o t e d t o p r e s e r v ing and protecting
e n v i r o n m e n t a l i s s u e s ? W h a t i s a r t ’s r o l e
f o r H e a l t h e B a y , a n organization that
t h e S a n t a M o n i c a B a y in California. They
in doing so?
f i r s t g o t h e r i n v o l v e d in a project that
With the issues that she deals with in
a n d t h i s i s w h e n s h e got into making
it is a bit out of sight, out of mind. For
e x c i t i n g t o m e r g e t w o of her loves in life.
garbage patch, she mentions that people
h o w b a d t h e f a s h i o n industry is (in terms
i n v o l v e d m a k i n g a p i ece for a mannequin
ocean pollution, Marina mentions that
w e a r a b l e a r t . S h e m entions how it was
example, with the great Pacific Island
S h e f u r t h e r m e n t i o n s how she found out
think it’s a literal island of garbage, but
o f i t s e n v i r o n m e n t a l footprint and efforts
13 WEARME.FASHION
f i l l i n g up the landfills and oceans with
t ra s h. The ocean s’ health is at risk, an d
i f w e don’t stop the pollution, alo n g wit h o v e rfishi ng and acidity, we a re goin g t o e n d up with no fish .
T h e sim plest habits to a meliora te this
a re t o cut down or eliminate th e use of s i n gl e use pl astics and ge t legislato rs
t o b a n si ngle us e plastic s. A sma ll sh if t
i n t h i nking is th e best sta rt. We a lso ca n de mand m anufa c ture rs and produ c e rs o f p a ckagi ng take th e th ings that th e y
pro duce back ( recyc lin g/sustain a bilit y
e f f o rts) or insi st they do n ’t produ c e th e m.
A C a p t i v e Audience
14 WEARME.FASHION
P H OTOG R AP H Y: LA U RI E
MOD E L: DA N IYA M US S IN A
F i shne tt ing found by C pt. C ha r l e s Mo ore who discover ed the gr e a t g arba ge pa tc h. Found in the o cean in the m iddle of nowher e . B each t oy s a r e ensnar ed in the fi sh ne t ting, telling stor y of ho w marine life ge ts caught in the fi sh ing ge a r in the ocean. The b o at wa s a c tu ally shipwr ecked o n a be a c h in C alifor nia befor e i t event ua lly was bur ied.
8 Q UEST I O N S WI TH LUCAS F O G L I A P H OTO GR A P HY: L UC A S FO GLI A, E S ME S W IMM IN G, PA R K R OYAL ON P I CK E R I NG , S I NGA P OR E
IN TE RV IEW: SA R A V OLPI
DISCOVERING MEANING IN HUMAN NATURE THROUGH PHOTOGRAPHY E D ITOR : C H R IS A LLB R ITTON
W h a t inspir ed y ou to s tart e x ploring th e
Wh a t i s i t th a t y o u a r e i n v e s ti g a tin g
y o u r phot ogr ap hy ?
r e l a ti o n s h i p b e tw e e n h u m a n i ty a n d
“ I g rew up on a small farm, th irty mile s
i n Hu m a n Na tu r e ? I t i s a b o u t th e n a tu r e , y e s ?
e a s t of New York City. T h e culture my
“ I a m re s p o n d in g t o t h e mo d e rn e ra . T h i s
n e i ghbor s. W e grew mo st of our fo o d a n d
t h e ir liv e s in d o o rs . I p h o t o g ra p h e d v a r i o u s
f a mi l y had was mu c h differe n t fro m o u r
ba rt er ed i t w i th o ther pe o ple . T h e re wa s a f o rest bor der ing our fa mily fa rm wh ic h
be c am e m y chi ldhood wildern e ss, a w ild pl a c e i gnor ed b y o u r n e igh bors that w a s pe rf ect for m e to play in . T h is life style
a c t e d as a shield fro m the strip malls a n d
s u bur bs sur r ounding us and th is wa s wh a t i n s pi r ed m y photo gra phic proje c ts.
M y f i r st book, A Natu ral Orde r focuse d o n pe o pl e l eavi ng th e citie s a n d subu rbs t o l i v e off the gr i d, ado pting life style s fr o m
t h e past. M y seco n d book, F rontc o u n t ry , f o c u sed on the c u rre n t sta te o f the
e c o n om y in the rura l A merican West a n d e x pl or ed j ust how pe o ple use d land i n a re gi on that w as fa mous fo r bein g wild . ” Your lat est pr o ject, Human Na ture,
is a t ime wh e n A me ric a n s s p e n d 9 3% o f g o v e rn me n t p ro g ra ms t h a t b rin g p eo p l e
c lo s e r t o n a t u re o r, lik e wis e , b rin g n a t u r e c lo s e r t o p e o p le .
B e c a u s e I wa n t e d p e o p le t o s p e n d m o r e
t ime o u t d o o rs , I u s e d e x a mp le s o f s c i e n c e t o e n c o u ra g e t h is b e h a v io u r. I n a d d i t i o n , t o f u rt h e r c e me n t my p o in t in p e o p l e ’ s
min d s , I p h o t o g ra p h e d n e u ro s c ie n ti s t s me a s u rin g h o w t ime s p e n t wit h n a t u r e b e n e f it s o u r b ra in s .
F u rt h e rmo re , s in c e e v e ry p la c e I v i s i t e d wa s v is ib ly a f f e c t e d b y c lima t e c h an g e I p h o t o g ra p h e d c lima t e s c ie n t is t s
me a s u rin g t h e a ir. De s p it e a ll t h e ne w s s t o rie s a n d p o lit ic a l a rg u me n t s a b o u t c lima t e c h a n g e , mo s t in d iv id u a ls s t i l l
h a v e n o id e a wh a t t h e p ro c e s s in v o l v i n g
t h e s c ie n t if ic re s e a rc h o f c lima t e c h a n g e
r e v i sit s t he same the mes of your
lo o k s lik e a n d I h o p e d t o c h a n g e t ha t . ”
m o re over ar ching a pproa c h. W hy?
I n Hu m a n Na tu r e , y o u a l s o h a v e u s
“ I n 2012, Hur r i ca n e Sa n dy floode d the
I s th i s m e a n t to b e a w a r n i n g to u s ?
pr e v ious w or ks, but this time with a
f i e l d s on our family fa rm and blew do wn
c o n te m p l a te o n th e b e a u ti e s o f n at u r e .
t h e oldest tr ees in th e wo o ds. When
“ I p h o t o g ra p h t h in g s ma in ly b e c a u s e I
l i n k ed the stor m to c limate change s
ro le in it .
w a t c hi ng the ne ws, I n o tic e d scie n tis t s c a u s ed by hum a n activity. This made
m e re alize that, if huma n s a re c h a n gi n g t h e w eather , the n th e re is nowh e re o n
Ea rt h that hasn’t been a ffe c ted by h u ma n a c t i vity som ehow.
Af t e r com i ng to this reve lation, I start e d
t o l o ok thr ough my arc h ive s a n d set as id e
s o m e photogr ap hs re late d to this pre s s in g i s s u e that became th e ro o t o f my th ird bo o k.”
18 WEARME.FASHION
h a v e q u e s t io n s a b o u t t h e wo rld a n d m y I b e lie v e t h a t a h e a lt h y e n v iro n me n t
s h o u ld b e c o n s id e re d o u r re s p o n s ib i l i t y t o p re s e rv e a n d p ro t e c t , a s we ll a s a h u m a n rig h t . O u r g ra n d c h ild re n , a f t e r a ll, w i l l b e
liv in g in it a n d I b e lie v e we n e e d a c l e a r e r p ic t u re o f wh a t t h e f u t u re wo u ld lo ok l i k e f o r f u t u re g e n e ra t io n s . ”
Wh a t c a n b e d o n e to o v e r c o m e c o n f l i c t s b e tw e e n p e o p l e ’s n e e d to s u r v i v e
MATT S W IN GI N G B E TW E E N TR E E S , LO ST C OA S T, C AL IFO RN IA
hum an im pact on the env ironment w i th
and exploitation of nature? (eg: people
p o r t r a y s . I f y o u a d d a call to action to the
working in mines)
p h o t o g r a p h , i t c a n i nspire someone to act.
“Creation of energy from solar panels
b e u s e d s o m a n y d i f ferent ways. I exhibit
electricity or hydrogen are, thankfully,
a n d m u s e u m s a n d p ublish the images in
Industries reliant on fossil fuels however,
s o c i a l m e d i a . I a l s o give copies to local
I l o v e t h e f a c t m y p h otographic series can
or wind turbines and cars powered by
p r i n t s o f m y p h o t o g r aphs in galleries
becoming much more widespread.
b o o k s , n e w s p a p e r s , magazines and on
are fighting back.
a n d n a t i o n a l o r g a n i z ations to use for the
We need to offer alternatives to minimize
d i f f e r e n t m e t h o d s o f reaching people and
the economic impact. For example, with
p u r p o s e o f a d v o c a c y . All of these are telling a story.”
coal miners, we need to find them a more sustainable profession. We also require
changes in our lifestyle such as spending LAVA B OAT TOU R , HAWA II
more time outside, eating less meat,
travelling by bicycle or public transit and
preservation of our forests. Each of these aforementioned actions would be a good
step in minimizing the conflict of interests
people’s survival can sometimes have with the environment.”
SH AW N E E I NS I DE A ME LTIN G GL AC I ER , JU NE A U IC E FIE LD RE S E A R C H PR O GR A M, A LA S K A
Do you think that losing our connection
20 WEARME.FASHION
with nature and changes in our values are causing us to lose sight of the impact human actions have on the environment?
“Our lifestyles leave nature seeming
distant. We are still, of course, vulnerable to storms, droughts, heat waves and
freezes that result from climate change. This change is happening because of
us, and it’s part of a cycle we need to interrupt.”
How is photography able to help inspire individuals to care about environmental issues?
“A photograph complete with a good
caption can compel someone to look at it
and feel connected to the subject matter it
21 WEARME.FASHION
INNOVATIVE SUSTAINABLE FABRICS For Use in Fall/Winter
P R OD U C ED WATE R , H A MILTON D OME OIL FIE LD , OWL C R E E K
2018 - 2019
THE STORY BEHIND THE HAMILTON DOME OIL FIELD
re u s e o r p u mp e d in t o d is p o s a l we ll s d e e p u n d e rg ro u n d t o a v o id c o n t a min a t io n o f
t h e wa t e r s u p p ly , a t Ha milt o n Do me O i l
F ie ld t h is p ro d u c e d wa s t e wa t e r is i n s t e a d d is c h a rg e d in t o lo c a l riv e r s y s t e ms.
T h e Ham i l ton D ome Oil F ield is lo c a ted o n t h e southwestern edge o f Wyo min g’s B ig
H o rn Basin. A l arge perc e n tage of wa t e r is n a t u r al l y contained with in a n oil rese rv o ir b u t som e w ater is a lso in jecte d into oil
w e l l s by wor ker s in order to help forc e o il t o t h e sur face.
B o t h the for m atio n wa ter and th e in jec t e d w a t e r ar e eventu a lly e xpe lle d a long w i t h the oi l and this wate r e n ds up
i n c l u di ng salts, oil dro ple ts, tre a tme n t
c h e m i cal s, gasses, bacte ria and oth e r l i v i n g or gani sm s. Wh ile typically, this
t o x i c waste wate r would be tru c ked to a t re atm ent facility to be re c ycle d for
ILLUSTRATION: ELISA DI LEO 22 WEARME.FASHION
23 WEARME.FASHION
The Woolmark Company is also suitable for sportswear and
The Woolmark Company Unveils The Wool Lab Autumn/ Winter 2018 - 2019
activewear, where, once again, thermoregulation, odor control
and easy care are fundamental.
MerinoPerform™WP is an innovative new fabric made from 100% Merino wool and
it possesses, in addition to Merino wool’s
inherent characteristics, enhanced shower
WOOL’S NEW FRONTIERS
a c t iv e we a r a n d is o n e o f t h e h ig h lig h t s b y
and wind resistance, wrinkle recovery and
I n a highl y fast paced wo rld like fash io n ,
o f t h e la t e s t in n o v a t io n s a n d t e c h n i c a l
k n o w n f o r i t s h y g r o s c o p i c p r o p e r t i e s,
E x p o a t t h e Mi l a n o Un i c a.
release water vapor very quickly, leaving
i n c reasi ng i nnovation is a n e c e ssity.
A f o c u s o n c o n t in u e d in n o v a t io n h a s l e d
wearing. Each of these benefits drew the
t h e b est qual i ty and style while keepin g
f a b ric s ma d e wit h 1 0 0 % wo o l a n d
and resulted in a recent collaboration
p e rf o rma n c e q u a lit ie s s u it a b le f o r
sportswear giant Adidas.
a b o u t t h e s e in n o v a t io n s wit h P e te r
and resulted in a recent collaboration
th e Wo o l m a r k Co m p a n y ) wh o s u rp r i s i n g l y
sportswear giant Adidas.
F u rt her m or e, the a bility to gu a rante e a n e ye on envi r onme n tal issu e s a n d
s u s t ai nabl e pr oduction pro c e sse s is p a ra m ount.
A mo ng the nume rous fa brics propo sed
f o r t he next Fall/Winter 2018-1 9 seas o n , a h u ge r ol e i s playe d by th o se made
w i t h noble, natura l a n d soft wool. Othe r t h a n being a top c h o ice thanks to its
p ro v er bi al attr ibute s, wo o l h a s a lso b e e n t h e h i ghlight of innova tive pro jects a n d
re s e a r ch that aims to pursue diffe rent a n d n o n -tr aditi onal application o f this mat e ria l
b y v alor i zi ng i t and ma kin g the most o u t o f i t s u npar allel ed qualities.
TH E WOO L FO R ACTIV E W E A R , AT HLEISURE A N D DE N I M Mo re active and dynamic move ment i s
re q u i r ed i n a co n tempora ry life style b y
i n t e rnati onal ur ban c itize n s. De mand is
ri s i n g for styl i sh outfits de signed fo r s p o rt
b u t meant to be wo rn for so c ial and ca s u a l o c c asions as w ell. This tre n d, kn o wn a s a th l eisur e , is on the rise a s it finds it s n i c h e betw een high fa shio n and
24 WEARME.FASHION
meaning that it is able to absorb and the garment soft and comfortable for
t h e c o mp a n y t o t h e re c e n t d e v e lo p m e n t o f
attention of important athletic customers
o t h e r b le n d e d f a b ric s , wit h e x c e llen t
between the Woolmark Company and
a t h le is u re a n d s p o rt s we a r. W e s p o ke
attention of important athletic customers
Ac k r o y d (G l o b a l S tr a te g i c Ad v i s o r o f
b e t w e e n t h e Wo o l m a r k C o m p a n y a n d
s t a rt e d q u o t in g t wo p a in t in g s , o n e b y
To m Ro b e r ts o n, A B re a k A wa y , whi c h
s h o ws s h e e p in a h o t d e s e rt e n v iro n m e n t a n d a n o t h e r b y J o s e p h F a r q u h a r s o n, Ho me wa rd , wh ic h s h o ws s h e e p in th e
mid d le o f a s n o w f ie ld . He ma d e h is p o i n t wit h c ry s t a l c le a r c la rit y in t h a t s h ee p a re c o mf o rt a b le in b o t h h o t a n d c o l d
t e mp e ra t u re s a n d t h a t wo o l is p e rf e c t f o r a ll s o rt s o f d if f e rin g c lima t e c o n d it i o n s . I n f a c t , wo o l h a s q u a lit ie s o t h e r f ib e r s la c k a s we ll. I n a d d it io n t o b e in g s o f t ,
n a t u ra l, b io d e g ra d a b le a n d re n e wa b l e ,
wo o l a ls o b re a t h e s , is o d o r re s is t a nt a n d is e x c e lle n t f o r t h e rma l ma n a g e me n t . A l l
t h e s e q u a lit ie s c a n b e a p p lie d t o f a b r i c s s p e c if ic a lly c re a t e d f o r t h e n e e d s of a
c o n t e mp o ra ry t ra v e lin g c o n s u me r ex p o s e d t o mu lt ip le c lima t e s , a d a p t in g t o wa r m o r
c o o l wh e re v e r t h e ir t ra v e ls ma y t a k e t h e m . F u rt h e rmo re , wo o l’s in f in it e p o t e n t ia l
TEX T: SA R A V OLPI
o f c u stom er demands a n d desire s wit h
f a b ric s o n t h e Wo o l L a b S p o r t a n d D e n i m
F i n a l l y , t h e Wo o l m a r k C o m p a n y i s a l s o investing heavily in another innovative
E DI TO R : C H R IS A LLB R I TTON
t o m o ve for w ar d and th a t keeping ahea d
machine washability. Marino wool is also
P H OTOG R AP H Y: C OU RTE S Y OF UN S P LA S H.C O M
w e a re al l aw ar e th a t there is o n ly ro o m
t h e Wo o l m a r k Co m p a n y in a s h o wca s e
“ T HE A BIL IT Y T O G UA R A NT E E T H E B E S T QU AL IT Y AND STYLE WHI L E KE E P IN G A N E Y E ON E NV I R O N M E N T AL I S S U E S AN D S US TAIN ABL E P R O DU C T ION P R O C E S S E S IS P A R AM OU N T .”
BETH TATE (UNSPLASH.COM)
25 WEARME.FASHION
f a b ri c: w ool denim. Denim is proba b ly t h e m ost popular je a n s fabric in th e
w o rl d. H owever there are drawbacks t o t ra di ti onal deni m fabric s.
T h e y have a tende n c y to fade du rin g w a s hi ng, they have po o r dra pe a n d
c re a sing dur i ng we a r and, of c o u rse , t h e re i s a sustai nabi l ity issue rega rding cot t o n
pro duction and the large a mount of w a t e r i t re quir es. M any of th e se dra wba c ks c a n be o ver com e an d o n e po ssible way is
t o u se 100% wool or to at le a st in c lud e
a v a riabl e am oun t o f machin e wa shab le w o o l in the fabr ic.
T h e fabr i cs ar e fin ish e d in pre c ise ly th e s a m e m anner as tra ditio n a l denim, so
y o u can r est assure d that ga rme n ts m a d e f ro m these fabr ic s won’t h a ve their sty le
c o m p r om ised and you gain all the n a t u ra l be n efi ts associa ted with wo o l garment s .
JOIN THE CONVERSATION
#woolmark FACEBOOK: @thewoolmarkcompany TWITTER: @woolmark
INSTAGRAM: @thewoolmarkcompany
26 WEARME.FASHION
PETER SJO (UNSPLASH.COM)
27 WEARME.FASHION
Botto Giuseppe
A Truly International Approach to Produce a Wholly Natural, Sustainable, Ethical and High Quality Yarn SARA VOLPI VISITS MILANO UNICA TO GET A FEEL FOR THE FALL WINTER 2018-19 COLLECTION.
a n d s o u r c e s w a t e r f or breeding and
manufacturers in Europe haven’t reached
p r o d u c e d b y t h e l o c al dam as well as vast
As of today, 100% sustainable
p a s t u r e d i r e c t l y f r o m fresh water springs. T h e n , t h e p r o d u c t i o n of yarns is made by B o t t o i n t h e i r f a c t o r y in Tarcento (Friuli)
w h e r e t h e y u s e r e n e wable and sustainable e n e r g y l i k e t h e h y d r oelectric energy
their apogee. The manufacturing sector
has only started to have new sustainable
initiatives bloom in 2017. Because of this, B o t t o G i u s e p p e, a n I t a l i a n f i r m b o r n i n
P H OTOG R AP H Y: C OU RTE S Y OF BO TTO GI U SE P PE
E D ITOR : C H R I S ALLB R ITTON
TE X T: SA R A V OLPI
1876 and specialized in the production of fabrics jerseys, yarns for knitwear,
needlework, weaving and accessories has decide to expand its portfolio with the
sustainable collection “Natural Fibra” in
response to the current needs of society for sustainable yarns and fabrics.
The project started two years ago with the aim of pursuing more sustainable
ways of sourcing wool and respecting
both animals and the environment without any compromise on quality said Silvio Botto Poala, CEO of Botto Giuseppe.
The company sources wool from sheep
that haven’t been subjected to mulesing and reared by Australian company
Congi who are specialized exclusively in producing superfine wools and with who
Botto Giuseppe has signed an exclusive
a r r a y s o f p h o t o v o l t a i c panels.
same corporate philosophy.
L a s t , b u t n o t l e a s t , t he dyes used for the
Congi also avoids soil impoverishment by
p r o c e s s c o n d u c t e d b y Cradle to Cradle®,
contract precisely because they share the
applying “paddock rotation techniques”
w o o l s a r e t h e p r o d u ct of a strict selection a n A m e r i c a n c e r t i f i c ation, to guarantee
29 WEARME.FASHION
MULESING-FREE WOOLS FOR THE KNITWEAR
“Pink, the season’s key colour, takes on the whole dusty range of skin tones and strengthens into deeper clay and cold chestnut nuances.” yarns that are totally sustainable, ethical, and completely natural.
The innovative application of wool into activewear has also been pursued by Botto Giuseppe and you can see the
impact of this application in the ZERO
SLOWOOL
AHORA
ZERO LINE FOR THE ACTIVEWEAR
line of fall-winter 2018-19 fabrics
proposal. It suggests use for an urban
environment as cashmere wool, crêpe
wool or raw cut felt are combined with
futuristic membrane technology for high performing garments. This techno-wool
with its special finishes that allow for both performance and comfort has staked its
claim for the roles of active and everyday wear.
A large amount of attention has also been paid to stretch fabrics, either natural
or bi-stretch with detail paid especially to performance characteristics of the garments.
ZERO WATERPROOF
30 WEARME.FASHION
ZERO WATERPROOF + WINDPROOF
31 WEARME.FASHION
Tintex
B.Cork™ by Tintex
32 WEARME.FASHION
P HO TOG RA P H Y:C O U RTES Y OF TI NT EX
E D ITOR: C HR I S A LLB R I TTON
TE X T: SA R A V OLPI
Innovative Processes Lead to Sustainable Fashion
Some of the most interesting e x t r a c t e d f r o m e u c a l yptus trees) resulting i n f r e s h , s o f t a n d b r eathable ecoprospects when it comes to s u s t a i n a b l e f i b e r s . Modal (derived from fabrics today have natural b e e c h w o o d ) i s u s e d as well. All of these origins. Just think about f i b e r s h a v e p e r f o r m a nce qualities which wool’s new frontiers and it m a k e t h e m p e r f e c t f or active or leisure wouldn’t be surprising to wear. find this out. These fabrics are made of materials people R E C Y C LE D SMAR T MATE R IA LS have used for centuries or even millennia because of O n e o f t h e m o s t p r e s sing issues the their extraordinary qualities f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y f a c es today is waste and properties. Today, d i s p o s a l, s p e c i f i c a l l y of fibers. The aim the depletion of natural resources and exploitation of o f a s u s t a i n a b l e f a s hion goods market existing resources is causing m a y s e e m q u i t e u t o pian today, but steps h a v e b e e n m a d e i n t his direction that a slow shift in the attitudes a r e r e f l e c t e d b y p r o duct sales. Tintex of the textiles industry h a s e n r i c h e d i t s p o r tfolio with alternative toward more sustainable s o l u t i o n s t o t r a d i t i o n al fashion with its practices. Many companies n a t u r a l - o r g a n i c m a t e rials and moves have pulled a complete i t s f o c u s i n c r e a s i n g l y toward recycled about-face as they focus on raw materials in combination a n d r e c o v e r e d s m a r t materials such as p o l y e s t e r s , n y l o n s a nd most recently, a with advanced hybrid approaches to manufacturing n e w r e c y c l e d s t r e t c h -elastane. that combine high technology T h e c o m p a n y d o e s t his by making use of and eco-sustainability. E C O T E C ®, a n i n n o v ative cotton yarn that
Among these brands, the Portuguese
o r i g i n a t e s f r o m 1 0 0 % pre-dyed remnants
successfully combining technology
u t i l i z e B . C o r k ™ , a n ew coating concept
contemporary fabrics to create lines
e c o n o m y . T h i s n e w concept recently won
markets. Their autumn/winter 2019 jersey
F a b r i c S t a r t S a l o n. This concept gets its
material, showing that a brand can
w a s t e m a t e r i a l f r o m a certified producer.
completely sustainable.
F i n a l l y , Ti n t e x h a s d eveloped a new hi-
The common theme that unites the entire
k n i t w e a r a n d w o v e n g arments to have an
Jerseys can be made from organic
w h i l e a l s o g a i n i n g h i g h performance
b l e n d s w i t h s i l k, c a s h m e r e a n d Te n c e l
r e p e l l e n c e , i d e a l f o r both aesthetics and
m a n u f a c t u r e r Ti n t e x i s a l e a d e r i n
c a s t o f f b y t h e t e x t i l e industry. They also
and creativity with their expertise in
t o s u p p o r t t h e s u s t a i nable fashion goods
for the fashion, sports and lingerie
a n a w a r d f o r i n n o v a t ion from the Munic
collections use at least 60% sustainable
s t a r t f r o m s o u r c i n g pre-consumer cork
be fashionable, up to date, and still
t e c h w a t e r b a s e d c oating that allows
collection is its use of organic materials.
a p p e a l i n g l o o k a n d naturally soft touch
c o t t o n, l i n e n a n d w o o l a s w e l l a s o r g a n i c
q u a l i t i e s s u c h a s b r eathability and water
(Te n c e l i s d e r i v e d f r o m p r o c e s s i n g
athletic wear.
33 WEARME.FASHION
Intespra
Recycling Brings New Life to Fashion yo u r whole wa rd ro b e to find th a t o n e
sweate r you boug h t a fe w seaso n s a go a n d had trouble a c tua lly finding it. A fter y o u
c h e c ked each corn e r o f your clo set, y o u t h e n r em em ber th rowing it a way th e l a s t t i m e you cl eaned yo u r c lose t, as yo u
t h o u g ht the gar ment had fa lle n out of da t e .
J u s t think about how ma n y c loth e s c o me a n d go fr om our wa rdrobe s regu larly I n o rd er to m ake space for th e la test
f a s h ionabl e new items a n d a qu e stion s p ri ngs to m i nd: What happens to
di s c ar ded gar ments we just thro w a wa y ? W h e re do these ga rme n ts end up? Wha t a b o ut al l of those ga rme n ts th a t rema in
u n s o l d, or the l ast cuts o f fabric s? Wit h
i n c reasi ngly l ar ge a mounts o f garment s e n di ng up i n l an dfills or be ing bu rned e a c h year , a r ather sa d a n d wastefu l
s c e n ar io is on th e rise and it bode s il l f o r t he envi r onment. A s o f late , textile c o m p ani es have a dopted in n o vative
re c y cling techn iques in order to stave o f f w a s t e and r efuse a n d e n c o u rage mo re
re c y cling and s u sta inability in fash ion. 34 WEARME.FASHION
f o r g a r m e n t s a s t h o s e made from solely
p r o c e s s m e a n t t o k e ep the same quality new fibers.
are first sorted according to quality and
U s i n g t h i s r e c y c l e d w ool helps the
other applications are carefully removed.
p r o c e s s o f m u l e s i n g, a painful practice
color. Then, all the buttons, zippers and
e n v i r o n m e n t b u t i t a l so reduces the
The fabrics then undergo a carbonizing
u s e d i n A u s t r a l i a b y farmers to prevent fly
impurities from the wool. After this,
t h i s p r a c t i c e i s s o u r cing raw materials
process which eliminates any vegetable rags and cuttings are dry cleaned with
s t r i k e . A n o t h e r s o l u t i on adopted to reduce f r o m m u l e s i n g - f r e e certified suppliers or
Re d uc e Wa s te
O ne c o mp a n y jo in in g a g ro win g lis t o f
ma n u f a c t u re rs s e t t in g a g o o d e x a m p l e is I n te s p r a . T h is I t a lia n ma n u f a c t u r e r
lo c a t e d in P ra t o h a s f o c u s e d o n r e c y c l i n g w o o l . O n e e le me n t o f t h e ir p ro d u c ti o n
is c a r d e d w o o l y a r n, a y a rn t h a t b l e n d s
wit h o t h e r f ib e rs t o b rin g lif e t o b e au t i f u l
f a b ric s a n d g iv e t h e m a t ime le s s ly c l a s s i c , y e t mo d e rn a p p e a l.
T h e ir s ig n a t u re y a rn c o me s f ro m e i t h e r
s e le c t e d v i r g i n fi b e r s s u c h a s c a sh m e r e , a l p a c a o r w o o l o r o rig in a t e s f ro m th e
re u s e o f f ib e rs o b t a in e d f ro m re c y cl i n g o f o ld c lo t h in g a n d k n it we a r. I n t h e i r
p ro d u c t io n s , t h e c o mp a n y u s e s a t l e a s t 6 5 % o f t h e s e f ib e rs , wh ic h g a in t h e
c e rt if ic a t io n o f Ca r d a to , a n in t e rn at i o n a l l y k n o wn re c y c lin g c e rt if ic a t io n .
T h is re c y c lin g g u a ra n t e e s c o n t ro l ov e r t h e e n v iro n me n t a l imp a c t o f t h e p ro d u ct i o n c y c le a n d a ims t o d ra s t ic a lly re d u c e
wa t e r, e n e rg y a n d CO 2 c o n s u mp t io n le v e ls .
R e in t ro d u c in g t h e s e re c y c le d f ib e r s i n t o
t h e p ro d u c t io n c y c le d ra ma t ic a lly r e d u c e s wa s t e a n d p re s e rv e s t h e e n v iro n me n t b y re d u c in g t o x ic e mis s io n s f ro m in c in e ra t o rs .
TE X T: SA R A V OLPI
se a rchin g thro u g h
But how does this process work, exactly? new fabrics used by the garment industry
ED ITOR: C HR IS A LLB R IT TO N
experienced
s p u n a n d g i v e n e w l i fe in a production
Well, the used clothing or cuttings of
P H OTO GR A PH Y:C OU RTE S Y OF IN TE S PR A
Y
ou may have
W hat ’s Behind A l l This ?
hydrochloric acid, while new wool fiber is
h e a d i n g t o d i f f e r e n t countries where this
These treated fabrics are then beaten to
O t h e r t h a n g a i n i n g a Cardato recycled
processing and finally undergo being
t h e d y e s e m p l o y e d f or their fabrics are
soaked in sulfuric acid.
eliminate remaining particles from the
mechanically torn and washed to become fibers again. Before their reintroduction into a new manufacturing process, the
fibers are dried so they are ready to be
practice isn’t in use.
c e r t i f i c a t i o n, t h e c o mpany also ensures f r e e o f h a z a r d o u s s u bstances such as f o r m a l d e h y d e , p e s t i cides and toxic
h e a v y m e t a l s . T h i s o btained them an
O e k o - Te x S t a n d a r d 100 , an international
35 WEARME.FASHION
pro duce textiles responsibly and ens u re s
t h e absence of h a rmful su bstances in t h e ir pro ducts.
I nte spr a’s final produ c ts are su sta inab le a n d r espect both th e enviro n ment and a n i m als w hile still guara n teein g h igh
qu a l i ty standar d s de spite be ing cra fte d w i t h r ecycled wool.
T h e i r gar m ents quality doesn ’t su ffe r a t a l l f rom being su sta inable sin c e th e ir
pa rt i cular fini shin g pro c e sse s c a n give t h e f a b ri cs differ ent aspects a n d texture s 36 WEARME.FASHION
“ I n t e s p ra’s f i n a l p ro d u cts a re s u st a i na b l e a n d re sp e c t b o t h t he
e n v i ro n m e nt a n d a ni mal s
products to acquire performance qualities such as washability and water and wind resistance in addition to antipilling and
antistatic to offer some of the best “made in Italy” quality garments to markets worldwide.
w h i l e s t i l l g u a ra n t e e i n g h i g h q ua l i t y st a nd a rd s ”
s u c h a s c l o th , v e l o u r, d r a g , a n d b e a v e r a s we ll a s b e in g p r i n te d , fl o c k e d o r
b o n d e d a n d t h e ir in n o v a t iv e p ro c e ss e s u t iliz in g n e w t e c h n o lo g ie s a llo w t h e i r
37 WEARME.FASHION
Innovation that Maintains Sophistication
machine washed at 30°C.
a p p e a l . T h e t r e n d o f blurred background
Colour palette for the Fall/
f o r m o f s o f t j a c k e t s with bouclé yarns
Winter 2018-19 Season
l e n d a p l e a s i n g v e i l e d effect. Colors that
J u st b y t a k i n g a g l a n c e a t o r t h o g o n a l
b r i g h t c h e s t n u t , c a m el, pearl greys and
fabrics and the K1 creative collection,
there is no doubt next winter is going to
a d e c o r a t i v e t w i s t t o the more traditional winter look.
a n d have fashi on that la sts o n ly one
s e a s on. W e ar e c u rre n tly witnessin g
a g e ner al tendency with in the textile
i n d u str y to the a pplic a tio n of ava n t-g a rd e f i n i s hing and tr eatments whic h ultimat e ly a l l o w fabr ics to be e n dowe d with h igh
pe rf or m ance qualities and se rve mu ltip le pu rposes. In this process, th e se fabric s a c quir e r esi stance to the e leme n ts of n a t u re w i thout any compro mises on e l e gance or sop histication.
m a t e r i a l s f o r m e n a n d women. Thanks to
wo rd s f o r a n o t h e r c o lle c t io n o f I t a li a n w o o l
p a r t i c u l a r t r e a t m e n t s , these technical,
mill t u rn e d Me n s we a r b ra n d K1 . W he t h e r it is e la s t ic iz e d f a b ric , s t re t c h , o r b i -
s t re t c h , t h e ma t e ria ls u s e d u n d e rg o n a n o m o l e c u l a r tr e a tm e n t , re s u lt in g in h i g h
p e rf o rma n c e p ro d u c t s t h a t o f f e r a ll t h e
a d v a n t a g e o f wo o l f ib e r’s h e a t re g u l a t i n g q u a lit ie s a n d p e rf o rma n c e q u a lit ie s.
O n c e t h e f a b ric is t re a t e d , it g a in s s h o w e r p ro o f a n d s t a in p ro o f p ro p e rt ie s f o r a n
a lre a d y n a t u ra lly wa t e rp ro o f s u rf a ce w h i l e
s e gm ent, Lanif ic io Ange lic o has in ves t e d i n a ser ies of tr eatments that hold n a t u re i n t h e highest e steem. A mong th e se
t re a t ments is la nolin, whic h is a to tal ly n a t u ral substan ce pro duced by the
pro c essing of wool. Lanolin is able t o
38 WEARME.FASHION
i s t h e i n t r o d u c t i o n o f high performance
I nn o v a t io n a n d p e rf o rma n c e a re t h e k e y
I ns p ir ed by the e c o -frie n dly market
e d i t i ons. A beeswax finis h is u sed to le n d
A n e w f e a t u r e i n A l c antara’s production
Innovative Performance
Natural Treatments
f e e l w i thout r equ iring any chemical
Unisex Performance
a s imila r e f f e c t o n c o tto n f a b ric s .
Lanificio Angelico
gi v e fiber s a so ft, de lic a te a n d luxu rio u s
Alcantara
s t ill a llo win g t h e n a t u ra l b re a t h a b ili t y a n d re s ilie n c e o f wo o l. T h e re s u lt in g g ar m e n t h a s a n a n t i-c re a s e f in is h a n d c a n b e
h i g h p e r f o r m a n c e f a brics are able to TE X T: SA R A V OLPI
e n o u gh anym or e to fu lfill toda y’s n e e d s
F u r t h e r m o r e , a l m o s t i mperceptible motes
h a v e q u a l i t i e s l i k e w ater repellence, fire
ED I TOR : C H R I S A LLB R ITTON
s u s t a i nabl e fabric produ c tio n . It’s not
o c t a n e g r e e n a r e h e ld under the spotlight.
c r o s s i n g t h e m o r e c l assic weaves, giving
a r e s u i t a b l e f o r d i f f e r ent environmental
P H OTO GR A PH Y: C OU RTE S Y OF LA N IFIC I O AN GE LI CO
c o m p ani es ar e dive rsifyin g into
a r e b o t h l u m i n o u s a nd pale, such as red,
o f s a f f r o n o r p i n k s t r i pes are often seen
Lanificio Angelico, Alcantara and Albini Group were all about making significant choices for their fabrics involving an eco-friendly series of O n e after anoth er, textile manufa c turin g
a n d f a d e d e f f e c t s r e aches a peak in the
r e t a r d a n c e a n d b r e athability , qualities
w h i c h a p p e a l t o b o t h contemporary men a n d w o m e n a l i k e w h o have an eye for t r e n d s b u t s t i l l d e m a nd their clothes conditions.
Trends and Colour Palette for the Fall/Winter 2018-19 Season be neither cold nor gloomy thanks to the choice of warm colors that were chosen for this collection. The most elegant of designs are given warmth from these
colors, while just touching these fabrics is soothing thanks to luxurious fibers
like Merino wool, Mongolian cashmere, Egyptian cotton, linen, silk and more. Mouliné and malfilé fabrics give a
suffused look to classic blazer designs
with micro-patterns, checks and stripes returning to a starring role in shades of
vivid red for that less aggressive, sharper
T he n e w c o l l e c t i o n t oys with a mixture of
n o b l e a n d s o p h i s t i c ated materials such as
l a c e , e c o - f u r s a n d wools that enhance A l c a n t a r a ’ s i n h e r e n t characteristics.
M e t a l l i c a n d g l i t t e r e ffects help to lend extra brilliance.
T h e c o l l e c t i o n a l s o h ighlights avant-garde t e c h n i q u e s s u c h a s 3D microsphere
p r i n t i n g t o f o r m e i t h er a tone-on-tone
p i n s t r i p e e f f e c t o r a plissé with colour-
s p r a y e d r i b b i n g . D r awing inspiration from n a t u r e , t h e c o l o r p a l ette mainly delves i n t o t o n e s o f b l u e a n d grey along with s e v e r a l s h a d e s o f g r een.
39 WEARME.FASHION
Fantasie Tricot
Albini Group
Trends-Fabric Report
Naturally Innovative
Fall/Winter 2018-19
Al w a ys taking care to us natu ral ra w
m a t er i als, Al bi ni c h o se to u se Te ncel® a n d Tencel M icro® as th e altern a tive
m a t er i als for their multiple collections. Av a i l able ei ther pure or blende d, th is s u s tainable f ibe r extra c ted from th e
c e l l ulose of eucalyptus trees cre a tes
re s i s tant and breath a ble fa brics by g iv in g ga rm ents m ade fro m this fiber th e ab ilit y t o a bsor b m oisture qu ickly, e n suring f re s hness and comfort.
An i n novati ve tre a tme n t is th e n applied
t o Tencel® as we ll as oth e r raw ma teria ls
s u c h as cot t on, line n, silk a nd cash m e r e t o c reate N at ur al Comfort fabric s. In
t h e f ini shing pr ocess, a low-te mpe ratu re t re a t ment m odi fies th e stru c ture s o f t h e
f i be rs, assur ing natu ral ela sticity with o u t t h e use of any syn thetic c o mpo n e n ts.
J e r s e y, j a c q u a r d , k n i t t e d f a b r i c s ,
c o m p a n y ’ s p r o d u c t i on line. They are even
some of the special qualities of various
s p e c i a l l i g h t i n g a n d m otion effects.
p r i nt e d , f l o c k e d a n d l a m e , t h e s e a r e o n l y garments coming to life within the walls o f F a n t a s i e Tr i c o t , a t e x t i l e c o m p a n y
situated in Carpi, the heart of Italy. For 25 years, Fantasie Tricot has been a
synonym for savoir-faire in the field of
fashion. Through this maze of precious
fabrics, there are many ways to proceed, though the mainstay is surely all jerseys.
JERSEY
J er s e y i s b e c o m i n g a n a l l - a r o u n d g a r m e n t and this is reflected in applications
ranging from outdoor apparel to the
surface design of the prints with crepe textures and jacquards.
WOOL
In realm of fibers, as opposed to
garments, wool is still the fiber of
choice due to its warmth, soft texture, and performance characteristics. It
is considered the most attractive and suitable choice for nearly any kind of apparel due to these aforementioned qualities.
The Fall/Winter 2018-19 collection is all about using noble and natural fibers of high quality like wool, wool blends, and fine cotton.
However, a natural quality is taking center stage. Decorated in numerous possible
accents from fur to the more classic and timeless accessories, flock is another seasonal essential.
PLISSÉ
Plissé fabrics, of course, have not been forgotten either, as they are another 40 WEARME.FASHION
c o m b i n e d w i t h p a r t i cular lacquers for
LAMÉ AND LUREX
La m é a n d l u r e x a r e also in great demand,
a n d c a n b e a c c e s s o rized in several styles, e i t h e r t o c o n v e y a n opulent look or a more r e t r o f a s h i o n a p p e a l . Either way, it will a p p e a l t o c o n t e m p o r ary sensibilities. A s t h e a p p l i c a t i o n o f various fabrics k e e p s g r o w i n g a m o n g the different
g a r m e n t s e c t o r s , s e emingly with no end in s i g h t ( s u c h a s t h e a f orementioned wool),
w e g e t t o b e a r w i t n e ss to a general mixing w i t h p l a i n w e a v e f a b rics.
SCUBA
S c u b a, f o r e x a m p l e , is on the rise for
s p o r t s w e a r a n d e v e n daily/ready to wear fashions.
A NOTE ABOUT SUSTAINABILITY:
A l l o f t h e s e f a s h i o n a b le trends do not
s h i r k t h e i r c o m m i t m e nt to sustainability. I t s h o u l d b e n o t e d t hat there is a range
o f f a b r i c s t h a t c o n t a i n recycled yarns as
w e l l . T h e s e y a r n s e i t her are sourced from c o t t o n t h a t i s t h e r e m nant of production b y t h e t e x t i l e i n d u s t r y or from recycled
b o t t l e s ( P E T ). T h i s , ultimately, is a better
c h o i c e f o r e a s i n g t h e burdens of waste d i s p o s a l a n d t h e t o x ic output to the
e n v i r o n m e n t t h a t t h e fashion industry is n o t o r i o u s f o r c o n t r i b uting to.
F a n t a s i e Tr i c o t i s g oing a step above
a n d b e y o n d t o e n s u r e that their products a n d m e t h o d s a r e e n vironmentally
f r i e n d l y , w h i l e s t i l l b r inging you the most f a s h i o n a b l e p r o d u c t s.
41 WEARME.FASHION
Manufacturers Talk handmade, but machinery was required to satisfy growing demand from the market. Being the first zipper manufacturers
required Lampo to develop the entire process themselves from scratch.
I N TE RV IEW: S A R A V OLPI
THE HISTORY OF CHANGE
market.
mostly standard and basic models. At
process, from production of the tape and dyeing to melting of the metal, and most of the finishing process. They also fully handled the machinery. This became
Lampo’s strength during the time when the market shifted from standard production to more specialized and customized
production methods. They were able to
t o l u xur y fashion bra n d design e rs su c h
imp le me n t e d in d u s t ria lly d u rin g t h e 1 9 3 0 ’ s a n d la t e r b e c a me t h e c o mp a n y ’s o nl y
a s P rada, Chan el, Herno and Tod’s o n ly
p ro d u c t a ro u n d t h e 1 9 6 0 ’s -1 9 7 0 ’s .
c e l e b r ates 130 y e a rs o f h istory, bu t h o w
B y t h e t ime L a mp o h a d s t a rt e d
t o n am e a few. T h is ye a r the c o mpa n y di d t hey get so fa r?
ma n u f a c t u rin g z ip p e rs , t h e y we re al r e a d y
Ac c or di ng to the sale s directo r,
L a mp o wh o f irs t in t ro d u c e d t h e in d u s t r i a l
in u s in t h e US a n d UK , b u t it wa s
A l e s sandr o Bordega ry , Lampo was firs t
p ro d u c t io n o f z ip p e rs in I t a ly , a n d w h y t h e
bu t t o ns. Zipper s didn’t e xist ba c k then .
z ip p e rs . B e f o re t h is t ime , z ip p e rs w e r e
bo rn i n 1887, primarily manufa c turing
42 WEARME.FASHION
wo rd “ la mp o ” b e c a me s y n o n y mo u s w i t h
P HO TOGR A P H Y:C O U RTE SY OFL AM P O
met the high performance standards of
re presentati ves, wh o se pro ducts c a ter
c a t a l o g u e m o d e l s . T hey excel in flexibility
t o s u i t i n d i v i d u a l c l i e ntele as a trade-off
control over all parts of the production
T h e p ro d u c t io n o f z ip p e rs wa s
m a j o r b r a n d m a n u f a cturers for their
clients who would settle for no less.
vertically integrated as such, they had
W e spoke to their La nfranc hi S pa
c o n s t a n t l y r e c e i v i n g small orders from
deliver the first high-quality products that
conceived from the onset. By becoming
The leading Italian manufacturer of high-end zippers, Lampo, spoke to us about the history of their field, as well as changes happening today and current market demands.
s a l e s d i r e c t o r . H o w e ver, since Lampo is
“Being the first zipper manufacturers required Lampo to develo p the entire process themselves from scratch.”
machinery to the labor and sales were all
Eco-Friendly Zippers
t h e m ” , a d d s A l e s s a n dro Bordegari Italy
W OR DS : CH R IS A LLB R IT TO N
Everything from the concepts and
f o r t h e f a s h i o n s h o w and we provide
E xp o r t a r e a m a n a g e r F a b i o S a n c l e m e n t e was happy to elucidate upon the history
of the company. He told us that, from the
company’s inception, until around roughly 20 years ago, requests for zippers were
that time, there was not acknowledgment
of details, like the number of teeth or the kind of tape, for instance, jacquard or lurex or satin, none of that existed.
There is a great deal of competition, of
course, even with basic zippers, so Lampo shifted their focus to specialized and
customizable production. This led, though, to an extreme fractionation of production. “We get lots of small orders, for example the minimum order for catalogue models is 50 pieces, but it can be less for a
customized project. Many new designers and emerging brands, for example, may
f o r b e i n g l e s s a b l e t o focus on the mass
W h a t r o l e d o t r e n d s play for you?
T r e n d s t e n d t o b e f u ndamental to Lampo. “ We i d e n t i f y t h e m while carrying out
c u s t o m i s a t i o n p r o j ects for our clients, b u t w e a l s o t r y t o c o mbine them with s u g g e s t i o n s c o m i n g from the fairs,” e x p l a i n s A l e s s a n d r o Bordegari .
E v e r y s e a s o n t h e y p resent a collection w i t h h i n t s o f t h e s e t r ends and
s u g g e s t i o n s . S o m e t i mes, these collections a c t a s i n s p i r a t i o n , g i ving an idea for all t h e p o s s i b i l i t i e s o f z i pper to go with a
g a r m e n t i n t e r m s o f colors, dimensions,
l e n g t h s , a n d s h a p e s . The general idea of t h i s i s t o p r o v i d e d e signers with hints to
t h e i r o w n d e s i r e s , r a ther than mindlessly p r o v i d e w h a t t h e y b elieve the market requires.
need only a few pieces, even a single one 43 WEARME.FASHION
W h e n did you decide to commit to m o r e
a im is t o u s e o n ly o n e k in d o f ma t e r i a l .
in current times. Price is still the leading
f o l l o w e d t o t h e i r l e t t er.
L a m p o star ted a pro c e ss of in n o vation a n d
p ro a c t iv e c o u n t e rme a s u re t o t h e e x c e s s
among a base that doesn’t care about
G a e t a n o L a n f r a n c h i, the CEO of
l o n g ago. For exa mple, th e y gain e d t h e
wo rld . B y u t iliz in g a re d u c t io n in s t y l e s
witnessing change as it occurs, as
s o m e c l i e n t s w i l l a s k if you use a certain
s u s tainable m e thods of production?
T h is p ro je c t s e rv e s a s a n o b v io u s
u p g rades toward su sta inable pro ductio n
t y p ic a lly a s s o c ia t e d wit h t h e f a s h ion
O e k o Tex St and a rd 100 c e rtification
a n d ma t e ria ls , e v e ry t h in g is p la c e d o n
t h e m fr om continuin g the perfection o f
p re mis e , b u t c e rt a in ly is e x c it in g w h e n
c o u rse. At fi r st, it wa s just to c a ter to t h e ir
c re a t e s lo n g e r la s t in g wa rd ro b e s in t h e
o v e r tw o decades ago . T h is do e sn’t s t o p
t h e s a me le v e l. T h is s e e ms b o rin g i n
t h e sustainable pro duction pro c e ss, o f
y o u c o n s id e r h o w it s a v e s t h e wo rld a n d
G e rm an clients, bu t then it ju st be c a me
p ro c e s s .
l u x u ry.
SUSTAINABLE COLLABORATION
m o re of a genera l n e e d, ra ther th a n a
N o t h ing dr astic wa s e ver re quired fo r t h is
O t h e r L a mp o p ro je c t s in c lu d e t h e ir s p e c i a l
c h a n ge. All pha ses of produ c tio n and ra w
p ro d u c t lin e s ma d e wit h s p e c ia l mat e r i a l s .
1 0 0 % so r educing th e use of harmfu l
y a r n , s o u rc e d f ro m re c y c le d p la s t i c
m a t er i al sour cing we re a lre a dy su per v is e d
O n e s u c h p ro je c t e mp lo y s Ne w l i fe ™
s u bstances and sourc ing su sta inable
b o t t le s . T h is s u s t a in a b le ma t e ria l is u s e d
m a t er i als si m pl y became easier as tim e
in s e v e ra l p ro je c t s b y t h e c o mp a n y . T h e
j o i n i ng the Gr ee npe a c e De tox progra m .
wit h G e o x. F o r t h e G e o x c o lla b o ra ti o n , t h e
t re a t ment and d ye ing processes we re
ma t e ria ls .
m o re i nnovative so lutions wh ich woul d
A n o t h e r p ro d u c t lin e u s e s G O T S c er t i f i e d
s i mu ltaneousl y re ducin g pollution.
c u s t o miz e d v e rs io n s o f t h e ma t e rial . T h e
w e n t by. Eventually, this n a tura lly led t o
mo s t re le v a n t o f t h e s e is a jo in t p roj e c t
F u rt h er m or e, large in vestme n ts in ga lv a n ic
wh o le g a rme n t wa s ma d e wit h s u s t a i n a b l e
a l re ady m ade to help L a mpo ado pt ev e n a l l o w for i ncr ea sed produ c tio n wh ile
o r g a n i c c o tto n, in c lu d in g s e v e ra l
driver among customers and certainly sustainability. Lanfranchi Spa still is
more and more customers are becoming sensitive to sustainability issues.
As a company, however, Lanfranchi Spa
still feels that they have a huge problem to face. There is an absolute need for global standardization in regards to the concerning levels of hazardous substances present in products.
Currently, however, the USA, EU, Korea, Japan, China and many more countries all have their own different standards.
This situation leads to companies trying to take advantage of the lack of global
standardization by heading to the country with the most favorable production
w o rk ing on a pr oje c t to bring th e to pi c o f
t o wa rd s wid e n in g t h e c o lo u r p a le t t e
T h e a i m of Lam p o is to c reate a
a d d s F a b i o S a n c l e m e n te.
pro bl em w i th this, howe ver, is th a t the re
Ho w l o n g w i l l i t ta k e to b u i l d a g r e a t e r
a g a r m ent. Rath e r than just fabric , the re
c o m p a n i e s o n th e w h o l e , r a th e r th a n
in t ro d u c in g mo re G O T S c e rt if ie d d y e s , ”
c o m p l etely r ecy c lable garment. T h e
a re many differ ent component ma teria ls in a re metal buttons, zippers a n d so o n . I f y o u want to r ecycle th is ga rme n t, yo u h a v e to separ ate a ll th e pa rts.
W i t h the intr oduc tio n of th is proje c t, th e
44 WEARME.FASHION
consciousness among consumers and a s m a l l m i n o r i ty a b o u t s u s ta i n a b il i t y issues?
T h e p a t h t o wa rd s u s t a in a b ilit y is a l o n g
a n d a rd u o u s o n e t o t ra v e rs e , e s p e ci a l l y
s u b s t a n c e s . ” T h i s i sn’t sustainable from a n e c o n o m i c p o i n t o f view, let alone a r e c y c l a b l e o n e , o f c ourse. Lanfranchi
f e e l s t h a t t o b o t h o f the aforementioned
i s s u e s , i s t o c r e a t e a common regulatory s t a n d a r d a m o n g f a s hion producers
w o r l d w i d e w h i c h w o uld ultimately be b e n e f i c i a l t o a l l i n v o l ved.
followed to their letter.
is in o rig in a n o n -d y e d c o t t o n , o n t h e
re c y cling to the ge n e ral ma sse s.
d i f f e r e n t t e s t s , l o o k ing for different
these sustainability laws, even if they are
Ev e ry pi ece fr om th e ta pe to the meta l is
c o n t ra ry , S t e lla Mc Ca rt n e y is p u s h i n g
d i f f e r e n t c o u n t r y, y o u have to undertake
allows skirting the spirit of the goals of
some clients will ask if you use a certain
re u s able or r ecycla ble . Currently, they a re
i n q u e s t i o n . “ Wi t h e ach client, in each
production processes and materials. This
in p a rt n e rs h ip wit h S te l l a Mc Ca r tne y .
« T h o u g h , G O T S c e rt if ie d o rg a n ic co t t o n
u s e i t a n d p e r f o r m t ests for the substance
controls and more tolerance toward toxic
pr o g r am s f or post-consumer wa s te?
L a m p o’s zi pper s are already recyc lab le .
t h a t y o u h a v e t o a c t ually check on if you
course, means they are looking for low
G a e t a n o L a n f r a n c h i, t h e C E O o f
t h a t is a c o n t in u e d c o lla b o ra t iv e e f f o r t
s u b s t a n c e y o u h a v e no recollection of and
conditions for their profit margin. This, of
mo s t re le v a n t o f t h e s e p ro d u c t s is a l i n e
H a v e you im ple mented any re c y c lin g
L a n f r a n c h i S p a a l s o explained to us that
Lanfranchi Spa also explained to us that
substance you have no recollection of and that you have to actually check on if you
esrt a n c e u s e Ti thais n d is p etr h f oer ms tma e s t lle s f osr tt hzip e sp ub ed h ec l ma i n q uin e s tt iro o nd . u“cWi t h teoa ct h i e n trk , ie n te a c h
d i f f e rfeonrt tchoe u nAW1 t r y, y8o-u1 9 h asve e at s o oun n.d e r t a k e
Dree s o,nl ly infgo r3dmm, diffe n tp titee sts o o kbi e ng i f f e r eit nt
here s uh ba s tsa nt c s .e ” Timp his o i srt n’a t n s uts q t aui naalit b l eiefs rom an ec n od mimin i c p o iunt iv o fev iseize w , l ewo t a lu on ito’s lde a r e c y col a l erwis o n e ,eo fncootu rin s ed. ic L aantfe r a: nit chi t hb e
f e e l s is t h ast ot of tb, oitt h is o f ft h f o le, reme ioned lee xaib annt d i s s uit e sh , iasst oacs r eoap t eh a u lka t o r y isctoicmamt oend r elog o s t a ntdhaar d m ot nog sf a h iin o ngp rgoadlv u cae n r sic n ka s hsin w o r l d w i d e w h itcre h w u l d nu tl t.i m a t e l y b e a ot me beneficial to all involved.
45 WEARME.FASHION
Manufacturers Talk
P H OTOG R AP H Y: C OU RTE S Y OF BU X K IN
Buxkin
E DITOR : CH R IS A LLB R I TTO N
as a Part of Sustainable Interior Covering
WOR D S: S A R A V OLPI
Minimalism
46 WEARME.FASHION
Just one meaningful discovery can exchange all known trends in interior design. Creative people, by definition, are those whose minds develop original ideas, uncovering the hidden potential and value of things other people wouldn’t consider laying eyes on for a second. Where some may see nothing but useless materials, others can imagine the infinite possibilities for applications they may offer. That is exactly what Jan Veldhoen and Wilma Dijgraaf, co-founders of the interior covering brand Buxkin did.
T h e t w o D u t c h d e s i g ners and co-founders o f B u x k i n g a i n e d e x perience while w o r k i n g f o r t h e S w i s s carpet producer R u k s t u h l b a c k i n t h e 1990’s, when t h e p r o d u c e r w a s s t i l l renowned for its a d m i r a b l e a n d i n n o v ative collections f e a t u r i n g n a t u r a l p r o ducts. During their t e n u r e w i t h R u k s t u h l , the two designers n a t u r a l l y g r e w i n t e r e sted in ecos u s t a i n a b l e c h o i c e s and possibilities o f f e r e d b y r e c y c l a b l e materials. They w e r e f i r m l y c o n v i n c e d that “the reuse of m a t e r i a l s i s a l w a y s preferable to the p r o d u c t i o n o f n e w materials”. As cof o u n d e r Wi l m a D i j g r aaf recalled, it was r e c y c l e d l e a t h e r , w i t h its unique structure a n d s m e l l t h a t i n s p i r ed their creativity. 47 WEARME.FASHION
T h e y m ade i t th e fo u n dation u pon whic h
lu x u ry Mi l a n e s e b ra n d s t o lo c a l s m a l l
t o b u i l d thei r inno vative uph o lstery
b u s in e s s e s lik e a h a ird re s s e r in n e a r b y
pro j ect. The huge ava ila bility of th is
De v e n te r (Ko o l m a n , Tw e l l o ), in t h e
ra w m ater i al ( r e c y c led le a the r) po sed
Ne th e r l a n d s . A p a rt f ro m t h e ir f a s hi o n
a c h a l l enge to the design e rs to find a
re t a il a n d in t e rio r d e s ig n e x p e rt is e , J a n
n e w and unpr ec e dente d way of utilizin g
a n d W ilma a ls o e x p e rie n c e d a h u g e
t h e m ater ial . They did th is by pro ducin g
in t e re s t in re c y c lin g ma t e ria ls u s e d b y t h e
ri b b e d pr oducts fo r inte rio r c o vering
a u t o mo t iv e in d u s t ry . T h is in d u s t ria l s e c t o r
de s i gn.
h o we v e r, h a s e x t re me c o n d it io n s t h a t h a v e t o b e a d d re s s e d s u c h a s h e a t , s t re n g t h ,
J a n and W i l m a we re c o n vin c e d, du e to
a n d s t ric t s a f e t y re g u la t io n s . T h u s , t h e
t h e uni que str uctu re o f both re c ycle d
u s e o f s p e c ia lly c re a t e d p ro d u c t s fr o m
l e a t her and r ecyc led wo o l felt, th a t
re c y c le d ma t e ria ls wo u ld n e e d t o t a k e
t h e s e m ater ial s would c reate exc iting
e x t ra c a re t o f it a lre a d y e x is t in g in d u s t r y
a p p l ications i n wall a n d flo o r c o vering s .
s t a n d a rd s .
T h i s was thanks to th e ir te xtu re a n d s t ru ctur e whi ch guara n tee both so u n d a n d ther m al i nsu lation. These ve ry c h a racter isti cs, garn e red mu c h in tere s t a mo ng ar chitec ts and de signers durin g
T h i s i n v e s t i g a t i o n o f t h e s t i ll
u n e x p l o r e d b e n e f i t s o f r e c y c le d
ma t e r i a l s r e ma i n s t h e h a l l m a rk o f t h e Bu x k i n p r o d u c t i o n p r o c e s s .
t h e i r fi r st appearance a t Milan De s ig n We e k i n Apr il 2015.
T h e ra w ma t e ria ls t h a t B u x k in u s e s h a v e e x is t e d f o r a lo n g t ime , re c o u n t s W i l m a ,
Bo t h the desi gners a n d the a rchitects
b u t s h e n o t e s t h e y a re h a rd ly e v e r u s e d
v a l u e d the innovative de sign c o mmitme n t
in t h e in t e rio r d e s ig n in d u s t ry . T h e i r
Bu x ki n stands fo r. A s a resu lt of th is a n d
ma in s o u rc e s t a rt s in c o mmo d it ie s a n d
w i t h the hel p of th e wo rld famo u s c o f f e e
t h e n t h e lin e s a re f o llo we d in t o t h e f i r s t
c h a i n St ar bucks , B u xkin’s mate ria ls we re
e n d p ro d u c t s . B u x k in o n ly u s e s n a tu r a l
i n t ro d uced into luxu ry hote ls in th e Far
d y e d le a t h e r wit h o u t a n y f u rt h e r c h e m i c a l
Ea s t as a r espon se to the c o mpa n y’s
t re a t me n t s , s o u rc e d f ro m t h e Mid -
gro w i ng devel opment of su sta inable
E u ro p e a n s h o e a n d f u rn it u re in d u s tr i e s .
c o n c epts.
W ilma f u rt h e r e la b o ra t e s t h a t t h is is t o a v o id p o llu t in g t h e t ra n s p o rt s .
T h e i r com m i tm ent to ward “turning go l d -
W h e n t a k in g in t o a c c o u n t t h a t 2 0 % o f t h e
i nto -good”, exp la ins Wilma, is c u rre n t ly
le a t h e r in t h e s h o e in d u s t ry is c o n s i d e r e d
s t ra t e gi cal l y shapin g reta il store conce p t s
a s a wa s t e p ro d u c t , B u x k in h a s t h e a b i l i t y
a s w ell and can be seen in a c tio n from
t o k e e p a lo t o f it o u t o f la n d f ills . M o r e
48 WEARME.FASHION
specifically, “1 kg of rest-leather for
T h e b e n e f i t s t o B u x k i n’s product lines
every mm in thickness per m2 is needed
a r e b o t h t h a t t h e y e n courage less
to produce one m2” of sustainable
e n v i r o n m e n t a l p o l l u t i on through creative
ribbed covering with a minimal aesthetic
r e u s e o f m a t e r i a l s a s well as a pleasant
that happens to be perfectly useful for
a e s t h e t i c . T h e s e k i n d s of investments
walls and floors for any kind of venue.
h e l p p r e s e r v e t h e e n vironment and its
Different combinations of these recycled
r e s o u r c e s , w h i c h , u l t imately are at a
materials exist for varying layers, with
p r e m i u m . C o m p a n i e s and consumers
several sizes available, and now, even
t h e r e f o r e n e e d t o t u r n their behaviors
striped patterns are available to choose
a n d i n t e r e s t s f r o m m ass consumption to
from. Buxkin’s aim, however, is to
q u a l i t y a n d c h o o s e products that last a
continue investing in, searching for and
l o n g t i m e . I f s u s t a i n ability is considered
developing new sustainable solutions and
a c o n d i t i o n o f p r o d u cing a good, rather
facing new challenges with an open mind
t h a n s i m p l y a c h o i c e , the shift in focus will
while staying true to their core “green”
e v e n t u a l l y p a y o f f i n the long term.
philosophy and mission.
49 WEARME.FASHION
Sustainable Makers Talk
R en own G olds m i t h i ng Co mpany R ev ive s S i l k Prod ucti o n i n It aly
responsible for is done by machineries,
b y i n t u i t i o n s a t b o t h the national and
while the rest is all handmade inside the
i n t e r n a t i o n a l l e v e l , f r om the Veneto
l a b o r a t o r y o f N o v e , Vi c e n z a , a s s u r i n g a
r e g i o n t o t h e I t a l i a n S enate and the EU.
product 100% designed and produced
I n 2 0 1 5 , t h e p r o j e c t was presented by
i n I t a l y, f r o m i t s m e l t i n g t h r o u g h i t s
t h e E U i n B r u x e l l e s d uring the “GROW
packaging. The creative efforts of D’orica,
y o u r R E G I O N ” c o n f erence as one of the
however, are not limited to jewelry, they
b e s t f o u r i n i t i a t i v e s among hundreds of
also are known for producing elegant and
c o m p e t i t o r s . A p r o j e ct born from the need
refined fibers, like silk.
f o r a h a n d f u l o f s i l k t o weave together w i t h g o l d b e c a m e t h e rebirth of Italian silk
D ’ O R I C A
In 2014, founder and designer Daniela
i t s e l f a n d i t w a s s o m ething that only these
started cultivating the idea of creating a
t a i l o r - j e w e l l e r s c o u l d accomplish.
special collection of jewellery pairing gold with an equally luminous fabric and silk
S i n c e t h e c r e a t i o n o f fair Italian organic
struck her instantly as the ideal choice.
s i l k, D ’ O r i c a p r o u d l y produces their
The problem was where to find silk made
c o l l e c t i o n o f 1 0 0 % made in Italy silk and
100% in Italy, as there hadn’t been a
g o l d j e w e l l e r y a n d h ave generated a lot of
supply chain for genuine Italian silk for
i n t e r e s t i n a n d p o s i t i v e response to their
M a ny successful bus ine s s e s are bu i l t
n o b o d y e ls e wa s d o in g , t h e ir f o re s i g h t a n d
upon or iginal and c reative ide a s .
c re a t iv e in t u it io n s o o n le d t h e ir p rod u c t s
C r e at ivit y how ev e r, c a nnot itself
t o b e a p p re c ia t e d a n d re n o wn e d o n a n
several decades. Beyond the end of
w o r k . ( P r i c e s v a r y f rom around 550€ for a
gua rant ee success a nd prais e from
in t e rn a t io n a l le v e l.
r i n g u p t o 4 4 6 5 € f o r a bracelet)
c u s to m er s. It r equires a la rge amou n t
S in c e t h is t ime , t h e n a me D’O ric a ha s
WWII, foreign competitors, especially the
of p assion and consta nt commitmen t
b e e n s y n o n y mo u s wit h t h e ir d is t in ct i v e
to resear ch and self-improveme nt to
g o ld p ro c e s s in g , a p ro c e s s t h a t is t h e
a s s u r e cust om ers a re s a tis fie d with
re s u lt o f p ro lo n g e d re s e a rc h a n d t e c h n i c a l
For Daniela and Giampietro, who are
hi gh qualit y f ina l products .
e x p e rime n t a t io n .
completely devoted to the philosophy
c o m p any that succeede d in this
ma d e o f y e llo w, wh it e , ro s e , b la c k a n d
re s p e ct. Back i n 1989, fo u n ders Da nie l a
b ro wn g o ld , t h e n p ro c e e d t o p a s s t h r o u g h
R a c canello and Gia mpe tro Zonta
t h e h a n d s o f h ig h ly s k ille d je we lle ry
c o n c ei ved the i d ea o f givin g life to p ie c e s
ma k e rs t h a t p u t t h e m t o g e t h e r wit h n e e d l e
o f j e w eller y based on a se mi-finished
a n d t h re a d , t h u s g iv in g lif e t o b ra c e l e t s ,
pro duct m ade of spherical pieces, h a v in g
e a rrin g s , n e c k la c e s a n d rin g s c o n s i s t i n g
o b s er ved a har monio u s bala n c e be tw e e n
o f a b o u n d le s s v a rie t y o f g e o me t ric f o r m s
m o der n technology a n d tra ditio n a l
a n d c o mp le x p a t t e rn s .
go l d sm ithing. E mboldened by their a b ilit y i n c re ati ng som e thin g that, a t the time , 50 WEARME.FASHION
O n ly 2 0 % o f t h e a ll t h e la b o r D’o rica i s
o f “ m a d e i n I t a l y ”, t h e c h a l l e n g e o f 100% Italian sourced silk was accepted. W OR D S : S A R A V OLP I
T h e f in a l p ro d u c t , e n g ra v e d g o ld b e a d s
being unsustainable.
E D ITOR : C H R IS A LL BR ITTON
D ’ O r ica can r i g htfully be called a
Chinese, led to 100% Italian sourced silk
Only after months of calls, meetings and financial investments, however, were they able to establish a network of businesses involving three Venetian social cooperatives to reconstitute and organize the Italian silk production chain, from silkworms to thread. The enormous potential of their Fair S i l k Wa y p r o j e c t w a s s o o n r e c o g n i z e d 51 WEARME.FASHION
Sustainable Makers Talk
A One of a Kind Denim to Wear for Years
H
P H OTOG R AP H Y: C OU RTE S Y OF IMJ IT 3 5020
ED ITOR : C HR IS A LLB R IT TO N
WOR D S : S A R A V OLPI
IMjiT35020: Italian Jeans Laboratory
52 WEARME.FASHION
e a r a t W E A R M E FA S H I O N , w e always want to share w i t h o u r r e a d e r s o u r m o r e i n t e r esting discoveries f r o m w i t h i n t h e f a s h i o n w o r l d a nd to show off the e x t r a o r d i n a r y t h a t w o u l d o t h e r w ise be a treasure for o n l y a s e l e c t f e w t o k n o w o f . T o d ay we have chosen to talk about IMjiT35020. I M j i T i s a n a c r o n y m o f “ i m p r e s a jeans Italia” and is a n I t a l i a n l a b o r a t o r y f o u n d e d i n 1988 in Due Cararre . 3 5 0 2 0 i s t h e p o s t a l c o d e f o r t h at region. M a n u a l C a n o v a, w h o s e m i s s i o n was not to create
a f a s h i o n a b l e b r a n d p e o p l e w o u l d a s s o c i a t e h i s p r o d u c t s w i t h , b ut to create the best d e n i m j e a n s p o s s i b l e f o r t h e s a k e o f d o i n g s o , f o u n d e d I M j i T 3 5 0 2 0. Q u a l i t y o f m a t e r i a l s a n d h a n d c r a f t e d w o r k m a n s h i p a r e w h a t d e f i ne each pair of jeans m a d e b y I M j i T 3 5 0 2 0 , w h i c h t h e y o f c o u r s e c o n t i n u e t h e t r a d i t i o n of with their shirts, c h i n o s a n d j a c k e t s , w h i c h a r e o n l y m a d e t o o r d e r a n d t h e y u s t h e best raw materials a v a i l a b l e . ( T h e r e i s a s m a l l o n l i n e s t o r e t h a t h a s n o s t o c k a n d o n l y ships custom orders.) T h r o u g h o u t t h e y e a r s , t h e l a b o r a t o r y h a s a l w a y s b e e n a b l e t o c o mbine a selection of J a p a n e s e a n d V e n e t i a n r a r e s e l v e d g e p r o d u c t i o n t o c r e a t e o n e o f a kind and authentic s e l v e d g e j e a n s f o r t h e t r u e l o v e r s o f h i g h q u a l i t y h a n d c r a f t s m a n ship. Each piece o f w o r k i s m a d e a c c o r d i n g t o c u s t o m e r s p e c i f i c a t i o n s , w h i c h a r e b rought to life by a s i n g l e a r t i s a n u s i n g o n l y o n e p i e c e o f m a c h i n e r y , g u a r a n t e e i n g e ach and every detail 53 WEARME.FASHION
i s meti cul ousl y c a red abo u t, re sultin g
f o u r b a rt a c k s o n t h e b a c k p o c k e t s a n d
These non-seasonal high-end pieces
i n a final pr oduct th a t c o mbines a
t h e c o in p o c k e t a re t h e o n ly re f e re nc e s
(ranging from 455€ to 900€ for a pair of
h i g h l y pr ized tec h n iqu e with unique
t o t h e ir la b e l, c o mb in e d t o g e t h e r w i t h
jeans) appeal to individuals who identify
c ra f t s m anship.
in t e rn a l a n d e x t e rn a l ro u n d riv e t s a n d
not just as mere customers, but more as a
b u t t o n s . S o me t ime s t h e re is n ’t e v e n a n
strong community of collectors who value
o u t e r la b e l t o s e e . W h e n t h e re is o ne , i t
what the garment stands for: know-how,
u s u a lly is t h e s a me c o lo r o f t h e g a r m e n t .
details, and creative passions, rather than
T h is wa s a n in t e n t io n a l c h o ic e , a s M a n u e l
just a label.
“ Th e laboratory a lso p ro vid es a repa ir s e rvic e to reconditi on o l d pie ces to ensure t he c o n tinuing t i me les sness of these g arme n ts.”
o n ly c a re s a b o u t g u a ra n t e e in g q u a l i t y , u n iq u e n e s s a n d v a lu e , d ra win g a t t en t i o n t o c ra f t s ma n s h ip in s t e a d o f b ra n d l a b e l . T h is a p p e a ls t o c u s t o me rs wh o id e n t i f y
T h e star ti ng poin t for th e cre a tio n of t h e s e w o rk s consists of all n a tura l fibers suc h a s c otton, linen and ba mbo o wh ich a re u s e d to give life to the raw, u sually in d ig o dy e d deni m and th a t lends it in h e rent c h a racter isti cs and va lue. Mo st je a n s t o d a y have undergone a pre-wash ing pro c ess to give th e m a pa rticula r look a n d consi stency but, o n th e contrary, ra w ( or dr y) den im hasn ’t unde rgo n e t h is t re a t ment, thus meanin g that th e cust o me r i s u l tim atel y wh o is go ing to sh a pe jea n s t h a t haven’t went th rough th is process f ro m day one. It’s a unique pair o f jean s t h a t will fade an d c h a n ge a c c o rding to t h e per sonal lifestyle o f the o wner, ma k in g
a s c o lle c t o rs o f t ime le s s it e ms ma d e
t h e m a one of a kin d fash ion e xpe rie n c e .
t o la s t . T h e la b o ra t o ry a ls o p ro v id es a re p a ir s e rv ic e t o re c o n d it io n o ld p ie c e s
I M j i T 35020’ s fashio n is n e ith e r
t o e n s u re t h e c o n t in u in g t ime le s s n e s s o f
o s t e ntati ous nor a tte n tio n se e kin g.
t h e s e g a rme n t s . Us e d g a rme n t s c an a l s o
I n f a ct, you can only see a fa c tory
b e e x c h a n g e d o r t ra d e d in .
t ra dem ar k w hen lo o kin g u p c lose . T h e
T h e s e n o n -s e a s o n a l h ig h -e n d p ie c es
54 WEARME.FASHION
55 WEARME.FASHION
Designers Talk
Th e Preci se I de a o f Fu ncti on a l Outerwear Fe a t ur in g Vittoria Gatti
o f TASCH
Tasch sources from companies that use a patented detox method to eliminate 11 substances considered toxic from the fabrics..
win d o w. A rt is o n e o f t h e s o u rc e s w h e r e
I d ra w e v e n mo re in s p ira t io n , o f c o u r s e . I g re w u p in a f a mily wh e re a rt h a s al w a y s
b e e n a n in t e g ra l p a rt o f o u r liv e s . I a l w a y s s a w f a s h io n a s a n a rt f o rm, s o it was
n a t u ra l f o r me t o d iv e in t o t h e in d u s t r y o n c e I s a w t h e o p p o rt u n it y .
A f t e r f in is h in g my s t u d ie s , I wa s n ot
c o n v in c e d o f t h e c h o ic e s I h a d ma d e
s t a k e a c la im f o r t h e k in d o f f a s h io n I
c o u ld t ru ly b e lie v e in . TA S CH wa s t h e n b o rn .
Ti m e l e s s a e s th e ti c s a n d h i g h q u al i t y m a k e y o u r o u te r w e a r a l a s ti n g
e x p e r i e n c e . Wh a t a r e s o m e o f th e v a l u e s th a t th e fa s h i o n i n d u s tr y n e e d s to I n y o ur ow n w o rds who is Vittoria Ga tti ? Vi t t o ri a i s a youn g woma n wh o has al wa y s w a n t ed to cr eate some thin g u n iqu e ,
r e d i s c o v e r, e s p e c i a l l y i n a ti m e w h e r e i t i s c o p i n g w i th s u s ta i n a b i l i ty i s s u e s ? Wh a t l i e s i n th e c o r e o f y o u r b r a n d , w h a t e l e m e n ts d e fi n e i t?
s o m e thi ng that wo u ld le a ve a ma rk on t h e
T A S CH is a lu x u ry b ra n d b o rn in Mi l a n t h a t
f e mi ni ne beauty. T h e idea for th is ma t u re d
wit h o u t s a c rif ic in g c o mf o rt . T h e b ran d ’ s
M a rangoni . I ha ve a lwa ys be e n a gre a t
d e s ig n s t h a t a re h e e d le s s o f s p e c if i c
s o m e thi ng that re pre sente d my wo rld a n d
t h e mo d e rn wo ma n , wh e t h e r f o r d a i l y u s e ,
t h a t was sti l l comfortable a n d o f c o u rs e ,
wo me n f e e l s e d u c t iv e , ima g in a t iv e a n d
w o rl d and pr om ote a diffe rent concep t o f
wa n t s t o e n h a n c e t h e b e a u t y o f wo m e n
du ri ng m y cr eative journ e y a t the Istit u t o
p h ilo s o p h y is e mb o d ie d in t ime le s s
l o v e r of outer w ea r a n d I wante d to c re a t e
t re n d s . E a c h p ie c e re f le c t s t h e n e e d s o f
m y cr eati vi ty, ma de a rtfully and ele gan t ly
t ra v e lin g o r s imp ly f o r a d mirin g . T h e y l e t
m a de i n Italy.
c o n f id e n t wit h o u t c o mp ro mis in g h e r a l l u r e
W h a t inspir es you to c reate ?
a n d e le g a n c e .
T h e s e ja c k e t s a re c o mp le t e ly ma d e
Ev e rything insp ires me to cre a te. I ta k e
in I t a ly , wh e re d e t a ils ma k e a ll t h e
da i l y l i fe, be i t a walk thro u gh the stre e t s
e mb ro id e ry , a ll p o s s ib le e le me n t s a r e
re a d ing a book or ju st lo o kin g o u tside t h e
p ie c e s . O u r c re a t io n s a re in s p ire d b y t h e
m y i nspir ation from wh a t h a ppe n s in my
d if f e re n c e . S t a rt in g wit h c u t s , c o lo r s a n d
o f t h e ci ty, seein g a frie n d a t the bar,
me t ic u lo u s ly c o mb in e d t o c re a t e u ni q u e
58 WEARME.FASHION
D ESIGN ER: VITTOR IA GA TTI
la t e r, I d e c id e d t o re t u rn t o f a s h io n a n d
IN TE RVI EW: SAR A VOLPI
a n d c o n t e mp o ra ry a rt g a lle rie s . S o m e t i m e
W OR D S: C H R IS A LLB R IT TO N
my ro o t s a n d s t a rt e d wo rk in g f o r m o d e r n
MOD EL: VER A A R TEMYEVA
wit h in t h e f a s h io n wo rld , s o I re t u rne d t o
PH OTO GR A PH Y: C IR O CE NN A MO
Su rro u n d e d b y th e i nfl ue n c e o f th e a rt ist i c m i l i e u si n c e sh e w as a small c h ild , t h i s y o u n g Ital i a n fa sh i on de s ig n e r h a s m an a g ed to i nsti l l in t o h e r c r e a t i o n s q ua l i ti es u su a l l y a s s o c i a t e d w i th a rt. A p i ec e o f a rt, f o r e x a m p l e n ever l o se s i ts val ue o v e r t i m e , b u t i nste a d l a ye rs mu l tiple pe rs p e c t i v e s into th e w ork, ha vi ng new s ig n i f i c a n c e t o e a c h l aye r. S i mi l a r ly, Vit t o r i a G a t t i’ s ou te rw e a r l i ne , TA SCH , pre s e n t s i t s f emal e c l i e n te l e w i th u n iq u e c o a t s an d j a c ke ts o f ti me l ess a e s t h e t i c s a n d val ue th a t a p p e a l t o wo m e n s e a r ch i ng for a matc h to t h e ir o w n i n d i vi d ua l styl e . V i tto ri a ’s c re a t i o n s w e r e so i ntri g ui ng to u s that we ju s t h a d t o kn o w mo re a b ou t h er a n d t h e p h i l o sop hy b eh i nd he r b rand.
“TASCH is a luxury brand born in Milan that wants to enhance the beauty of women without sacrificing comfort.” 59 WEARME.FASHION
pa s t , by natur e a n d by th e experience s I
lif e . F o r T A S CH, I wa n t t o a p p ly t h e s a m e
a f re e expr essi on o f form that is fully
c a p a b le I t a lia n a rt is a n s wo rk in g ha n d s -
h a v e lived thr ough o r ima gin e d, cre a t in g
p h ilo s o p h y . E v e ry p ie c e is t h e re s u l t o f
c u s t om izabl e for eve ryo n e ’s unique s t y le .
o n a n d c a rry in g o n a t ra d it io n o f “m a d e
Your choice in fabric s is wisely ma d e
q u a lit y a n d t ru s t wh e re t h e id e n t it y o f
hum an point of vie w. Wha t qua litie s d o
o u t e rwe a r it s e lf .
on th e basis of a n e nvironme nta l a n d y o u look f or your s uppliers to have?
T h e fir st thing I lo o k for in re gards to my s u pplier s is qua lity. Without th e highes t qu a l i ty I could neve r give life to my
c re a ti ons. Another th ing I lo o k for is t h o s e s u pplier s that have a respect fo r sma ll
c o m p ani es, as numbers a re o fte n plac e d
be f o r e r esults. Oh, and finally, c a re a b o u t t h e envi r onm ent is pa ramo u n t. In th e F W 2 0 1 8 col l ection th e re h a s been c a refu l
re s e ar ch on natura l fabric s pro duced b y
c o m p ani es usin g su sta inable syste ms . F o r e x a mpl e, the denim u sed wa s pro duce d w i t h r ecycled cotton.
W h a t challenges do y ou fa c e while
s o u rcing and work ing with sus tainab l e m a te r ials?
T h e b iggest challenge is to fin d e c o -
f ri e n d ly com pan ies th a t pro duce beau t if u l a n d hi gh qual i ty fabric s fro m recyc led m a t er i als that h a ve low enviro n menta l
i m p a ct. In Ital y it is not easy to fin d t h is , bu t I have noticed a c h a n ge in the las t
f e w year s, with many companie s becomin g i n c reasi ngly sensitive abo u t e n vironm e n t a l i s s u es.
W h a t is t he im p ortanc e of v a luing
a rti s anal savoir-fa ire and of knowin g w ho is cr eat ing your coa ts a nd how?
I h a ve always tho u ght th a t quality is m o re i m p o r tant than q u a n tity, a n d it is the
go l d e n r ule I ap ply to e very day in my
60 WEARME.FASHION
in I t a ly � , a t ra d it io n ma rk e d b y c rea t i v i t y , t h e a rt is a n is ju s t a s imp o rt a n t a s t h e
Designers Talk
Innovation of Fashion Lies with the Edible Materials of the Future
Fe a t u rin g
Mateja Benedetti
of Atelier Terra Urbana There are many ways in which to address
W e t a l k e d t o M a t e j a Benedetti the team
fashion. One of these is simply going
w h a t r e v o l u t i o n a r y m aterials we might be
PH OTO GR A PH Y: PETE R GIO DA N I
W OR D S: C H R IS A LL BR I TT ON
I NT ER VIE W: SAR A VOLPI
D ESIGN ER: MATEJA BEN ED ETTI
a broad issue like sustainability in
straight to the source, where all the magic begins: the raw materials.
During the past few years, some very innovative ideas have started to be
developed upon in the field of fibers by
creative and visionary minds, which now thanks to modern technology and the
tireless work of these visionaries, are
b e h i n d A t e l i e r T e r r a Urbana and asked
w e a r i n g i n t h e n e a r f uture and the pros
a n d c o n s o f a s u s t a i nable fashion brand. Yo u c r e a t e d a b r a n d “Atelier
Te r r a U r b a n a ” t h a t combines the natural a n d s u s t a i n a b l e w i t h luxury fashion.
W h a t m a d e y o u d e c ide to choose this path?
presented as viable solutions for a more
Y e a r s a g o , w h e n I s aw different
v e r y u n t r e n d y , v e r y p oor, and in most
sustainable world.
We are not talking about just organic fibers either, but instead of fabrics
s u s t a i n a b l e f a s h i o n b rands, I found them c a s e s v e r y u n a t t r a c t i ve.
created by innovative systems of food
I n t h e e y e s o f c u s t o m ers, sustainable
orange peel. The latter case can apply to
e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y c o n scious people. For
fibers processing such as apple or
Ferragamo, the first luxury brand to use
orange fiber to create a capsule collection of accessories and ready to wear which
f a s h i o n w a s j u s t f o r ecologists, vegans or o t h e r c u s t o m e r s , h o wever, “real” fashion was something else.
launched recently.
R e a l f a s h i o n w a s r e p r esented by luxury
Another example comes from Atelier Terra
s u s t a i n a b l e f a s h i o n w as not. Because
Urbana, a Slovenian brand using apple skin as a successful leather substitute.
There are more possibilities, of course,
offered by the initial success these two
brands have had for alternative sources.
a n d a e s t h e t i c , b a s i c ally, everything that o f t h a t , I d e c i d e d t h at we had to do a
s u s t a i n a b l e b r a n d t h at would represent
t h e h i g h e s t v a l u e s i n the fashion industry. A n d n o t j u s t t h a t , w o uld be synonymous w i t h l u x u r y , b e a u t y , and innovation. We
63 WEARME.FASHION
d e c i d ed t h at we w anted to become a
y o u c a n u s e , t o wh ic h t h e ma t e ria l r e s i s t s ,
T h i s was a challenge . T o ma ke a
Wh a t k i n d o f te c h n i c a l i n n o v a ti o n s a r e
h e a l thy tr end, the fa shio n of th e fu tur e .
c o m p ar ison, it was challenging in a s imila r w a y as i f Van Go gh would o n ly have b la c k a n d whi te color s to pa int his beautifu l s u n f low er s. So we sta rte d to look fo r
t e c h n i ques that wo u ld su ppo rt our de s ig n s de s pite the nume rous re stric tio n s imp o s e d w h e n designi ng enviro n menta l c loth ing .
it s t a y s in g o o d c o n d it io n .
r e q u i r e d to m a k e th i s k i n d o f fa s h i o n
w o r k ? Ho w d i ffi c u l t i s i t to a c c o mp l i s h ,
a n d h o w d o e s i t c o m b i n e w i th a “g r e e n ” o r g a n i z a ti o n a l m i s s i o n ?
F irs t , u n d e rs t a n d t h a t wo rk in g wit h
c e rt if ie d o rg a n ic ma t e ria ls is d if f ic ul t .
T h e y a re n ’t a s g o o d a s a rt if ic ia l t e x t i l e s
Env i ronm ent al friendly fa s hion is ke y
b e c a u s e t h e y ’re n a t u ra l, s o t h e y wr i n k l e .
to u sing only o rganic mate ria ls for
p a t t e rn s , t e x t u re s , a n d c o lo rs y o u ha v e
to y our br and’s philos ophy. This le d
F u rt h e rmo re , y o u h a v e limit s o n wh a t
y o u r cr eat ions. Othe r tha n c otton,
a v a ila b le . F o r e x a mp le , me t a l c o lo r s d o n ’ t
s i l k , and wool, however, you foc used
t h a t I wor k with as a c o stu me design e r
“We decided that we wanted to become a healthy trend, the fashion of the future.”
I w a n ted to col la bora te with h im and
e x is t a t a ll. S o me t ime s it f e e ls lik e I a m i n
w h o has devel ope d a su sta inable veg a n
mu c h t ime a n d e f f o rt t o g e t s o me t h i n g t h a t
on s o m e ver y re v olutionary ma terial s ,
s u c h as apple skin. W here did that i d e a c o me f r om ? Fu rthe rmore , wha t k ind s of p rocesses a re re quire d to ma k e ga rm ent s f r om a pple s k in?
M a n fr ed Schweig kofler , the directo r
f o r o p er as, cal l ed me and asked me i f
H a n nes Par th ( of Italian c o mpa n y Fruma t) , l e a t her . Fi r st of all, I wa n ted to se e th is
a p p l e skin m ate ria l, to to u c h it, to fe e l it
t h e Mid d le A g e s . T h is is wh y it t a k e s s o y o u wa n t .
a n d get an idea o f what kind of fo rms I
W e a re d e v e lo p in g a lmo s t e v e ry t h in g
be s t sol uti ons for le a ther go o ds.
wa t e r-b a s e d p rin t in g (d e s ig n e d b y S a s a
c o u l d develop. I thin k this is one o f the
F i rs t of al l , i t’s made from apple wa ste pro duced by the fo o d-pro c e ssing
i n d u str y and r ecyc lin g is one manner o f s ustai nabi l i ty we sh o u ld continue
t o w o r k on. It’s also important th a t the
qu a l i ty i s good a n d that th e aesthetic is
s i mi l ar to ani m al leath e r. Yo u can des ig n i t a s l eather and se w it as a textile. If I
c o m p ar e it to l ea ther, it’s easier to wo rk
wi t h . La ser cut i s one of the methods that
64 WEARME.FASHION
y o u c a n t h in k o f : p a t t e rn s ma d e wit h
K la d n ik ), n a t u ra l e mb ro id e rie s , e t c . A l l o f t h is is c o p y rig h t e d wo rk . W e h a v e on l y
2 -5 c o lo rs in a s e a s o n t h a t we c a n u s e , s o wh e n I s t a rt d e s ig n in g c lo t h in g , I ha v e t o f irs t c h e c k wh a t ma t e ria ls a re a v a il a b l e . W e a re c o lla b o ra t in g wit h s o me s ma l l ,
b u t v e ry g o o d c o mp a n ie s lik e E rc ig o j A r t
E mb ro id e ry a n d o t h e rs t h a t s h a re t h e s a m e v a lu e s a s T e rra Urb a n a s u c h as f ai r t ra d e pro d uc ti o n, sustai nabi l i ty, re spo nsi b i li t y,
e thi c s, and a c o mmi tme nt to hi g h q u a li t y.
A ppl e skin isn’t the only edible/waste
you?
l e a th er. How do y ou treat this ma ter i a l ?
I b e lie v e t h a t u p c y c lin g a n d re c y c li n g
ga rm ent ?
imp o rt a n t f o r s u s t a in a b ilit y b e c a u s e w e
F i s h leather is a diffe rent story. Fish
g a rb a g e . W e a re p ro d u c in g a lo t o f w a s t e
e x pensive. For me though , it re pre sent s a
t h in k e n o u g h a b o u t t h e a lt e rn a t iv e s f o r
s k i n for those cu sto mers who wouldn’t
wh o a re wo rk in g o n t h o s e p ro b le ms w i t h
I t ’ s a good alternative until we in vent
a ll t h is p la s t ic , t e x t ile g a rb a g e e t c . t h a t
s a m e textur e. The mate ria l c o mes from
p la n e t ?
N o t a singl e hide in the tannery c o mes
My wa y is a b it d if f e re n t . I wo rk with
m a te r ial you use, you a lso utilize fis h
H ow do you t r a nsform it into a be a u ti fu l
g o t o g e t h e r h a n d in h a n d . B o t h a re v e r y a re liv in g o n a p la n e t t h a t is d ro wn i n g i n
s k i n i s lim ited b y its size and it’s very
ma t e ria ls , b u t a t t h e s a me t ime , we d o n ’ t
go o d substitute fo r a sn a ke o r c rocod ile
h o w t o re u s e t h e m. S o I s u p p o rt p eo p l e
o t h e rw i se car e about enda n gere d spe c ie s .
a ll my h e a rt . W h a t e v e r a re we t o d o w i t h
s o m e thi ng not ma de fro m a n ima ls with t h e
we t h ro w a wa y e v e ry d a y o n t h is lo v e l y
f i s h caught in the se a or fa rme d for fo o d .
n a t u ra l ma t e ria ls b e c a u s e t h e y d e co m p o s e 1 0 t ime s f a s t e r t h a n ma t e ria ls ma d e f r o m p e t ro le u m. T h e y a re c e rt if ie d a n d t h a t
me a n s t h e y a re c re a t e d wit h o u t t h e u s e
o f a n y c h e mic a ls o r a d d it io n a l t re a tm e n t s lik e in s e c t ic id e s , p e s t ic id e s o r s y n th e t i c a d d it iv e s . T h e y a re b io d e g ra d a b le a n d re a lly h e a lt h y f o r t h e b o d y .
Yo u a l s o l o o k e d to b a m b o o a n d h e m p
fo r r a w m a te r i a l s . Wh y th e s e p l a n t s a n d w h a t a r e th e r e s u l ts i n b o th te r m s o f
s u s ta i n a b i l i ty a n d th e q u a l i ty o f t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t?
He mp is n a t u ra l a n d in my o p in io n o n e
o f t h e mo s t e c o lo g ic a lly f rie n d ly f a b r i c s in t h e wo rld , a s we ll a s t h e o ld e s t .
He mp f ib e r b re a t h e s , is b io d e g ra d ab l e , a n d a re n e wa b le re s o u rc e wh ic h g r o w s q u ic k ly wit h o u t h e rb ic id e s , f u n g ic id e s
o r p e s t ic id e s . A p o o r a p p e a ra n c e i s m y o n ly p ro b le m wit h t h is ma t e ria l. F o r a
lu x u ry lo o k , we h a d t o c o mb in e it w i t h
ric h e mb ro id e rie s . B a mb o o , h o we v e r , i s f ro m an ani m al bred fo r its skin.
t h e o p p o s it e o f rig id he mp, i nc re di b ly
W h at is th e importa n ce of u p cycli n g to
c o mf o rtabl e and a stro ng ma t e ria l o v e r a l l .
66 WEARME.FASHION
so ft, smo o th, anti stati c , l uxur i o usl y
“A sustainable brand that represents the highest values in the fashion industry.”
I t h a s excellent wic kin g pro pertie s, is
a n t i bacter ial and is a good so lution f o r s k i n pr oblem s.
W h a t benef it s are brought into
pe o p les lives by the ne w s usta ina b l e
te c h n ologies t hat Ate lie r Terra Urban a us e s?
I t h i nk I alr eady mentioned mo st of th e be n efi ts, but the biggest is su rely that
T e rra Ur bana can help pre serve the wo rld a n d al l life on it fo r the long te rm.
F u t u re gener ations of pe o ple , a s well a s o u r water , ear th, a ir and health will b e
pre s e r ved, a pr ese rva tio n effort sore ly n e e d ed r i ght now.
68 WEARME.FASHION
Designers Talk
The Voice Behind AMBAS and Their Voyage to Freedom
t o in s t ill p e rs o n a l v a lu e s in h e r wo rk
a n d e n ric h t h e wo rld o f f a s h io n wh ile
d o in g s o . S o p h ie f o u n d e d h e r b ra n d in
2 0 0 6 b y c o mb in in g I t a lia n c re a t iv it y w i t h e c o lo g ic a l f a b ric s t o e n a b le h e a lt h ie r
lif e s t y le s a n d s u p p o rt e n v iro n me n t a lism a n d t h e re s u lt in g f a s h io n s we re
s u p re me ly lu x u rio u s y e t s imp le f o r a c o n t e mp o ra ry wo ma n wit h n u a n c e d tastes.
S o p h ie ’s e x p e rie n c e p rio r t o f o u n d in g
A mb a s s p a n s a wid e ma rg in , f ro m h e r wo rk a t Vo g u e P a ris a n d t h e ir F e n d i p re s s o f f ic e t o t h e o rg a n iz a t io n o f
e v e n ts and fash ion shows. Sh e has sp e n t h e r e n t ire lif e in s id e t h e wo rld o f f a s h i o n
a n d qui te by chance, started be c o min g mo re c re a t iv e h e rs e lf . R e s u lt in g in g a rmen t s t h a t dr ew thei r inspiration fro m icons o f t h e p a s t . Dra win g b o t h p ra is e f ro m h e r
f ri e n d s and hi gh rega rds fro m c e lebrit y wo me n wh o e mb ra c e d h e r s imp le a n d re f i n e d s t y l es such as Ch a rlo tte Ca siraghi, Uma T h u rma n , A e rin L a u d e r, K a t e Mo s s , L e e R a d zw i l l and Ca roline o f Monaco . 70 WEARME.FASHION
IN TER VI EW : SA R A VOLPI
f a s h io n e n t h u s ia s t wh o o n c e d e c id e d
W OR D S: CH R IS AL LB RIT TON
S
o p h ie G a le ra s y Mo llin e d o, a n o t h e r
PH O TOGR A PH Y: A MB A S
S o p h ie G al er a s y Mo l l i n ed o of A MBAS
D ESIGN ER: SOPH IE GA LER A S Y MOLIN ED O
Feat u r i n g
71 WEARME.FASHION
W h a t inspir es you to c reate ?
t u n ic s , d re s s e s , k a f t a n s , a n d p a re o s t h a t
F ro m the ver y s tart, one o f my biggest
t o t h e u s e o f h a n d -wo v e n a n d o rg a n i c
i n f l u ences w as my mo ther’s wa rdrobe . Sh e had a few pie c e s fro m the 1 9 6 0 ’s
t h a t wer e m ade of cotton a n d gauze th a t I
l o v e d , but that we re a bit ru ined, so I t rie d t o c opy these design s to make my o wn v e rs i ons of thes e ga rme n ts.
I a l s o al w ays l ove d the boating life sty le , bu t whenever I went sa iling and pa c k e d m y clothes i n a ba g, th e re sult was th a t e v e rythi ng got c rumple d u p. For th is
re a s on, I deci ded to c reate ga rme n ts lik e
72 WEARME.FASHION
h a v e a n a t u ra lly c ru mp le d e f f e c t , t ha n k s
c o t t o n g a u z e t o o f f s e t t h is in c o n v e ni e n c e I a lwa y s f a c e d .
W h e n it c o me s t o my s wimwe a r, I w a n t
wo me n t o f e e l c o mf o rt a b le wh e n wea r i n g it , s o b e it a b ik in i o r s wims u it , I wa n t
it t o b e lig h t , s o b e r a n d e le g a n t , rat h e r
t h a n t ig h t o r c o n s t ric t in g . I u s e la s er c u t s ,
For your collection, among other
h u r t y o u , w h i c h e v e n happened to me
Could you explain why you opted for
w e a r i n g t h i s t y p e o f synthetic material and
materials, you use 100% organic gauze.
o n c e w h e n I h a d a n accident while I was
this material as an ecological solution?
i t r e s u l t e d i n t h i s t o x ic fabric melting on
I personally love organic cotton gauze because is very light and natural. It’s
very important to me, to choose natural materials because these materials are safer for our skin and our health.
wh ic h a re in d e e d h a n d -c u t s , a n d m y l i n e
It’s like with food, if we eat in a healthy
o f wh ic h a re in s p ire d b y p rin t s f ro m t h e
same with clothes. If you wear garments
is a v a ila b le in a s s o rt e d c o lo rs , q u it e a f e w 1 9 4 0 ’s .
and natural way, we feel good and it’s the made of plastic, basically, they can
my skin.
W h a t a r e t h e b e n e f i ts of using this
m a t e r i a l f r o m a n a e sthetic and natural point of view?
O r g a n i c c o t t o n g a u z e is perfect for
s u m m e r b e c a u s e , e v en if the weather
i s h o t , t h i s f a b r i c k e eps you cool. This i s d u e t o i t d r y i n g e a sily and quickly.
F u r t h e r m o r e , i t ’ s h a n d-woven and hand-
73 WEARME.FASHION
dyed, which means that every piece is
origins of its materials are intertwined.
“It’s like with food: if we eat in a healthy and natural way, we feel good; and it’s the same with clothes.”
What is the importance of knowing
a g r o w i n g a w a r e n e s s , and I hope it keeps
unique and different from the others. The texture and the lightness of this
material confer a boho-chic look that is sober yet pleasing.
It’s also the same with other natural
materials, like the cashmere and extra
fine wool that I use for shawls and pareos. A garment’s aesthetics and the natural
where the raw materials you use
originate? Why is it important that
you know how they are sourced and transformed?
It’s very important since it guarantees
product quality. My cashmere shawls, for example, are made in India by craftsmen from within their own homes. Each family
has a loom. First, women weave the thread and then the men work the loom. It’s a
family affair. The materials they use for
this are pure and natural rather than some
o n g r o w i n g , b u t y o u can never know. W o r k i n g a c c o r d i n g t o sustainable
p a r a m e t e r s i s e x p e n sive so the products
t h e m s e l v e s a r e e x p e nsive as well and not e v e r y o n e c a n a f f o r d that. It should be the f a s h i o n f o r e v e r y o n e , but instead, it’s a
l u x u r y . O f c o u r s e , p e ople also need to be
a b l e t o a p p r e c i a t e t h ese kinds of products i n o r d e r t o u n d e r s t a n d them, because
m a n y i n d i v i d u a l s a r e simply not interested i n t h i s f o r m o f f a s h i o n.
mixed and raw artificial fibers.
With swimwear, we use soft Italian Lycra,
from a small craft workshop in Italy where
the pieces are all made by hand, even the cuts, which, with their irregularity become part of the beauty and distinction of the garment.
Do you think people now are keener
on sustainability issues and pay more attention to the origin of their clothes
and what their clothing is made from? I think that there are more women that, for what I can see, are more attentive to this, but of course, not everyone is so privy to matters of sustainability. There is
74 WEARME.FASHION
75 WEARME.FASHION
A Un iversa l Co n n ec ti o n Between Fa s hi o n a n d Natu r e
FEATURING OF
Cr is t in a Lo n ga gnani CRILO
D ES IGN E R : C R ISTIN A LON GA GN A N I T EX T: SA R A VOLPI E D ITOR : CH R IS A LL BR ITTON P H OTOG R A PH Y: CR I LO
78 WEARME.FASHION
With its dis tinc tiv e logo de r iv e d fr om initia ls of its founde r C r is tina Longa gna ni, Ita lia n br a nd C R ILO is n’t jus t a n e m bodim e nt of its c r e a tor ’s v is ion, but ultim a te ly a ls o r e pr e s e nts the fus ion of two wor lds tha t s e e m dis pa r a te nor m a lly : fa s hion a nd na tur e . C R ILO wa s bor n fr om C r is tina ’s de s ir e to ta k e he r c ha nc e s a t c r e a ting s om e thing of he r own whic h would r e fle c t he r s e ns ibilitie s a nd pa s s ions . This Designers Talk y oung a nd infor m a l, B e f o r e c r e a t i n g h e r l abel, Cristina e c o-s us ta ina ble L o n g a g a n i s p e n t t h i r ty years working in f a s h i o n , e x p e r i e n c i n g the industry from br a nd is the la te s t e v e r y a n g l e , f r o m s t y le to shipping and a c hie v e m e nt in its e v e r y p o s i t i o n i n b e t ween. When she r e a c h e d f i f t y , s h e t h ought she had done founde r ’s e x te ns iv e e v e r y t h i n g , t h e n a n i dea came to her. Why c a r e e r in fa s hion. n o t t u r n h e r l i f e a n d career around and f i n a l l y c r e a t e s o m e t h ing consistent with n o t t u r n h e r l i f e a n d career around and
79 WEARME.FASHION
f i n a l ly cr eate some thin g c o n siste n t wit h
in n o v a t iv e ly t o c o n f o rm t o c o n t e mpo r a r y
h e r o w n thoughts and fe e lin gs? Her tru e s t
t a s t e s o f t h e mo d e rn a g e . A s u s t a in a b l e
de s i r e was to pro vide a mo re intima te v ie w
d y e in g p ro c e s s is s o me t h in g v e ry
o f f a shi on, as oppose d to the soulless
d if f ic u lt t o a c h ie v e a n d y o u h a v e t o
a n d appear ance -centric pe rspective s h e
c o mp ro mis e , a s s h e t o ld u s , b u t s h e t r i e s
o f t e n encountere d. The decisio n to do
t o c o n s is t e n t ly re d u c e t h e n u mb e r o f
s o i n a sustainable wa y, wa s, of cours e ,
c h e mic a ls in h e r p ro c e s s e s .
s o m e thi ng that came natu ral to her and a n e c essity she felt, as sh e to ld us w h e n
She use s o nl y natural d y e s suc h as
s h e s poke with u s.
l o g wo o d , wo ad, mad de r, and i ndi g o whe ne v e r po ssi b l e .
W h e n founding h e r bra n d a n d to give l i f e t o her collections, she a ime d towa rd
A t f i r st, she had to str ug g l e to f i nd
I t a l i a n supplier s th a t pro vided her wit h
suppl i e r s i n tune wi th he r e c o - sust a i n a b le
“CRILO is built on a concept that spans beyond cuts and geometries to reach a place in the heart.”
i d eal s, so she had to tur n to smal l suppl i e r s and an e qual l y smal l prod u c t i o n c hai n wi th many l i ttl e l ab o rato r i e s lo c at e d i n E mi l i a Ro mag na i nstead. Co ntrar y to o the r c o untr i e s, suc h a s t h o s e i n Sc andi nav i a, she f o und that, i n I t a ly, many are i g no rant ab o ut sustai nab le f ashi o n, and many c usto me r s si mply c o nsi de r f ashi o n a means f o r g e tti n g a n i nstant re tur n o f i mag e and do n’t p a y atte nti o n to what g o e s i nto the i r c lo t h i n g . Cr i sti na, o f c o ur se , wants to pro v i d e a
n a t u ral cer tifi ed (GOTS Glo b a l Org a n ic
spe c i al v al ue wi th he r g ar me nts, so t h i s
Te x t i l e Standar d – ICE A ) fa brics. She
l ac k o f c are po se s d i ff i c ul ti e s f o r h e r
c h o s e ever ythi ng from organic cotton
y o ung brand . She kno ws, ho we v e r, t h at
j e rs e y to or ganic c o tto n po peline a n d
the adde d v al ue o f he r b rand g i v e s i t
o rga nic plush th a t c o n tain e d o n ly sma ll
i ts v e r y di sti nc t “ so ul ”. CR ILO i s bui lt o n
a mo unts of el asta n e . She a lso chose a n d
a c o nc e pt that spans be y o nd c uts a n d
c o n t inues to use lin e n and ba mbo o in h e r
g e o me tr i e s to reac h a pl ac e i n the h ea rt ,
w o rk , as these mate ria ls have nume rou s
and i t do e s thi s by usi ng beauti f ul e c o -
a p p reci able pr ope rties fo r both pe o p le ’s
sustai nab l e mate r i al s.
h e a l th and the e n vironme n t. She b e l i e v e s that what he r and so m e I n re g ar ds to her dye ing process, Cri s t in a
o the r pi o ne e r s are do i ng no w wi l l b la z e
t a k e s her i nspir ation fro m the popu lar
a path f o r o the r s to c o me l ate r. That t h i s
t e c h n i ques of th e 1960’s that we re typ ic a l
wi l l ai d i n e d uc ati ng pe o pl e to c are w h at
o f t h e hi ppi e culture of th a t e ra such a s
g o e s i nto the i r c l o thi ng as we l l as t h e
de g radé and tie dye, bu t u pda ted th e m
ae sthe ti c v al ue o f the i r g ar me nts.
80 WEARME.FASHION
Designers Talk
P H OTOG R AP H Y: H A PP Y H A US
E D ITOR : CH R IS A LL BR I TTO N
TE X T: S A R A V OLPI
D ES IGN E R : S A N D Y C H AU GN AU D
Art Meets Sustainabi lity Fe atu r i n g
A
Sandy Chaugnaud of
H appy H aus s so o n a s w e m e t with the founder a n d c r e a ti ve d i r e ctor of Happy H a u s , Sa n d y C h augnaud, we i n sta n tl y p e r c e i ve d that we were sta n d i n g i n fr o n t of a kind and n a tu r a l sp i r i t w i th a light and happy “a u r a ” th a t r a d i a ted all around h e r . Wa l ki n g b a r e f oot, dressed in o n e o f h e r c r e a ti o ns, Sandy talked a b o u t h e r c o l l e c ti on and some of th e sp e c i a l p i e c e s she made in c o l l a b o r a ti o n w i th a French artist th a t i s a b l e to b o ast that Miley C y ru s i s a m o n g her fans. She went o n to te l l u s a b o u t her desire to c r e a te fe m i n i n e , y et easy going g a r m e n ts i n a c o nscious way. 83 WEARME.FASHION
Ev e rything fi r st started th irteen years
d e n im g o e s b a c k t o S a n d y ’s me mo r i e s ,
t a k i ng w i th her th e dream of cre a tin g h e r
ro b u s t je a n s s h e u s e d t o we a r wh e n s h e
a g o , w hen Sand y left F rankfurt for Pa ris , o w n br and one da y. A fter studyin g a t
ESM OD Par is , she h a d h e r first work in g e x per i ence with J e a n Cha rle s de s
C a s t elbajac , wh e re she got to kn o w a
s y s t em that r ul es the fash ion indu stry f ro m
a s s h e re c a lls s o me p e rf e c t ly f it t in g a n d wa s y o u n g e r a n d t h a t , a f t e r ma n y ye a r s ,
we re s t ill in g o o d c o n d it io n . T h e s e j e a n s h a p p e n e d t o ma k e h e r f e e l in c re d ib l y c o mf o rt a b le a s we ll.
w i t h i n.
T h e s e a re t h e s a me q u a lit ie s s h e w a n t s
Af t e r a w hile of th is experience, sh e g re w
wa n t s t o e mb o d y in h e r c o lle c t io n “ a
t i re d of it and d esire d to bre a k fre e of s e a s ons and tr ends.
T h i s led her to fin a lly pursue h e r dre a ms
a n d in tur n led to the birth of Happy Ha u s a s a r efl ection of the n a tura l a n d mor e
re l a x ed fem i nine sta te whic h Sa n dy fe lt in h e rs elf and the people a round her.
t o b rin g b a c k wit h h e r c re a t io n s , a s s h e c o lle c t io n t h a t g e t s o ld e r in a g o o d w a y ” . S h e b e lie v e s , t h a t , wit h g o o d q u a lity o f
ma t e ria l a n d p e o p le ’s p ro p e r c a re , t h a t
t h e s e g a rme n t s will n e v e r lo s e t h e ir b e a u t y o r t h e ir v a lu e .
i n F ra nce by sma ll fa mily fa c tories. In
“With good quality materials and proper care, these garments will never lose their beauty or their value.”
de n i m , w hich w as DE TOX c e rtified
A lt h o u g h c o mp ro mis e s h a d t o b e m a d e t o
c o m p onent.
a n d h o lis t ic a t t it u d e o f Ha p p y Ha u s, w h i c h
F ro m the beginning, she sta rte d h e r wo rk o n c u ts and m ate ria ls th a t would a llo w h e r c l othes to b e worn th rough o u t the
y e a r, m aking the m sta ple items that ha d a t i m e l ess styl e, a s she told u s.
Al o n g w i th car e fu l a tte n tio n to cuts a n d de s i gns, ther e is, a s well, a deeply fe lt c o n s cious si de to the labe l.
Sa n dy had a desire to cre a te a brand
t h a t was conscious of its enviro n ment a l
f o o t pr i nt so she de c ide d to c h o o se G O T S c e r ti f ied cot t ons and c oloring, a ll m a d e a d d i tion, she ch o se h e r much a dore d a n d G r eenpeac e approved as a c o re
T h i s denim , pr o duced in Italy, is the ma in e l e m ent of her collections, u sed in sh irt s ,
o v e rc o me s o me d if f ic u lt ie s , t h e e c o l o g i c a l
c o me s f ro m S a n d y ’s G e rma n ro o t s , p l a y s a p rin c ip le ro le in it s d e s ig n p h ilo s o p h y .
j e a n s and beautiful dresses.
I n a d d it io n , t h e re is a s e n s e o f jo y , e a s e
T h e reason for the partic u lar choic e of
limit e d e d it io n c o lle c t io n t h a t t h e y m a d e
84 WEARME.FASHION
a n d p la y f u ln e s s p e rf e c t ly e mb o d ie d i n t h e
i n c ol l abor ati on with P é nélope S trint z, t h e F re n ch painter and de signer of HOLD O N. St ri n tz is not only responsible for th e
ra i n b ow- colour e d logo of Ha ppy Haus ,
bu t recently she hand pa inte d T -sh irt s ,
j e a n s and ki m ono dre sse s with h e r c o lo u rf u l
Trend Report Fall/Winter 2018-19 Season
dra w i ngs for the bra n d.
H a p p y H aus is a successfu l e xample o f h o w f e mi ni nity, col orfuln e ss and th e pleas u re
o f l i f e’s l i ttl e j oys inte rse c t perfectly w it h s u s t a i nabi l i ty.
ILLUSTRATION: ELISA DI LEO 86 WEARME.FASHION
87 WEARME.FASHION
Metallic Brilliance
Classic Revolution
W ith thei r shiny lu ste r, th e fa brics f o r t h e F a ll/ W in t e r 2 0 1 8 -1 9 s e a s o n a re a mi x t u r e
A n i m p e c c a b l e E n g l i s h s t y l e o f e l e g a n c e i s b e s t a c h i e v e d t h r o ugh timeless tartans,
o f futur isti c s c i-fi fa n tasy a n d a n op u le n t in s p ira t io n f ro m t h e 1 9 8 0 ’s . L e a t h e r, P V C a nd fl ocked fabric s a re a mong th e n u me ro u s p ro p o s a ls , d e c k e d o u t in s h a d e s o f
p re cious m etals (go ld, silve r a n d c o p p e r) t h a t s e rv e t o b e wo rn lik e a rmo rs a g a i n s t t h e glo o min e s s o f win t e r.
t h r e a d s l i k e o r a n g e , p i n k a n d l i g h t b l u e s e r v e t o c h a n g e t h e t r a ditional into the more
d a r i n g . A l l - t i m e f a v o r i t e t w e e d s , D o n e g a l s , h i g h p e r f o r m a n c e f a b rics and wool knits are d o m i n a t i n g t h e s c e n e a n d c l a i m i n g t h e i r r i g h t f u l p lace.
Top left to right:1.AB Industries 2. AT Piel 3.Blue Royal Bottom left to right: 4.Conceria Gaiera Giovanni 5. Fiveol 6. Mario Cucchetti
*(Photo courtesy of Première Vision Instagram)
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P r i n c e o f W a l e s a n d h o u n d s t o o t h i n c l a s s i c t o n e s w h i l e u n e x p e cted tones of colorful
Top left to right:1.3C Company 2. Assotex 3. Marini e Cecconi Bottom left to right: 4.Marzotto 5. Dashing Tweeds 6. Lanificio Zignone
* (Photo courtesy of Marzotto Fabrics Instagram)
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Natural World
3D Textures
T h ese seek th e nostalgia of natu re, wh ic h is in mo re d a n g e r wit h e a c h p a s s in g d a y .
F r o m t h e s o f t n e s s o f w o o l t o t h e i r r e g u l a r s u r f a c e o f t h e c o l o r f u l m ulti-yarn fabrics, next
t h a t include co lorful flowe r prints, emb ro id e rie s a n d b e a d e d la c e s . P rin t s o f s o m e o f
a p l e a s i n g s u r p r i s e t o b o t h t h e e y e a n d t o t h e t o uch.
T h e fabr ics r ep re sent th e impo rta n c e o f n a t u re a n d p re s e rv a t io n e f f o rt s t h ro u g h v i s u a l s the m ost c u rio u s a n ima ls ta ke c e n t e r s t a g e o n t h e s u rf a c e o f t h e e mp t y c lot h .
Top left to right:1.Blue Royal 2. Sprintex 3. Stib 19
Top left to right:1.Invenio2. Malhia Kent 3. Malhia Kent
Bottom left to right: 4.Solstiss 5. Story Design 6. Lica
Bottom left to right: 4.Styletex 5. Tissage de Chaumes 6. Trimalhas
* (Photo courtesy of Solstiss NYC Instagram)
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f a l l i s a l l a b o u t t h e f e e l i n g o f d i f f e r e n t c o n s i s t e n c i e s a n d t e x t u r e s. These garments are
*(Photo courtesy of Trimalhas Instagram)
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Checks & Stripes
Graphics
N a r r ow or w i d e, micro or ma xi and e it h e r in 7 0 ’s in s p ire d n u a n c e s o r b a s ic s h a d e s ,
M o n o c h r o m e i s b a n i s h e d i n f a v o u r o f g r a p h i c p a t t e r n s t h a t d r a g us into a world full of
these timele ss ge o metric a l s h a p e s a re s u it in g f o r mo s t d if f e re n t lo o k s .
r e a l i t y a n d i m a g i n a t i o n , r e v e a l i n g t o u s a s p a c e w h e r e e v e r y thing is possible.
c h e cks and str ipe s e xpe rie n c e th e ir fo rt u n a t e re v iv a l. F ro m c o t t o n t o c h e n ille a n d w o o l ,
Top left to right:1. Albini 2. Albini 3. Ningbo Mont Cappotto Bottom left to right: 4. Ospiti del Mondo 5. Ospiti del Mondo 6. TBM
s h a p e s , c o n t r a s t i n g c o l o r s a n d o p t i c a l e f f e c t s . F a n t a s y b r e a k s t he boundary between
Top left to right:1. Blue Lane 2. Blue Royal 3. Johnston of Elgin Bottom left to right: 4. Just Fly 5. Grausam Textil 6. Ratti
*(Photo courtesy of Ratti Instagram) *(Photo courtesy of Grausam Textil Instagram)
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Managing Editor VERA ARTEMYEVA Acting Writer and Researcher SARA VOLPI Acting Copy Editor CHRIS ALLBRITTON Graphic Design MADELINE STONE, TSVETELINA BRAVOVA Cover Photography CIRO CENNAMO Illustrations ELISA DI LEO
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