Bordeaux J'Adore 2017 by Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux Métropole

BORDEAUX

J’adore

L i f e s t y l e M a g a z i n e • 2 017 • N . 3

THE ART OF WINE

Incredible Cité du Vin Inside Vinexpo Romantic wine roadtrips

Rolling on the river! RESTAURANTS

The Michelin Galaxy

DESIGN

The huge vibrancy

ARCACHON

The hot spots

PHOTO FABIEN COTTEREAU

Bordeaux’s Art de Vivre Between 1804 and 1806, Pierre Lacour painted A View of Some Ports and Quays in Bordeaux: The Chartrons and the Bacalan. This painting, which is brilliantly dissected in an exhibition at the Museum of Aquitaine, documents the story of Bordeaux's golden age of trade. At the beginning of the 19th Century, the Garonne and the city on its banks were merged in a symbiotic relationship. One could observe the boats jostling for position on the water, and a few metres away on the quayside, a diverse crowd going about its business. The sailor, the fishmonger and the porter all rubbed up against the high society of the day and if you looked closely, you might even spot a member of the illustrious Ferrière dynasty of wine merchants. Just over two centuries later, after years of calm on the quays, this same view of Bordeaux could be the object of a contemporary art-work. Little by little, the Garonne has recovered her sense of life, with the comings and goings of the cruise-liners, the luxury river barges, the boat-taxis, and the few determined paddle-boarders and canoeists to have colonised the river as their playground. Back on terra firma, wine, the driving-force of the Bordelais economy in the age of Lacour, is now a treasure accessible to all. A museum dedicated to oenology and viticulture, La Cité du Vin, which opened last year, testifies to the extent to which our local resource is now universally revered. In every neighbourhood of Bordeaux, in humble bars and Michelin-starred restaurants, one can taste an impressive range of world-class wines from this region and beyond. If you get the chance to come during Vinexpo, the prestigious international forum for wine professionals, you’ll see Bordeaux in high spirits as she pays homage to the elixir she owes her fame to. In recent years, Bordeaux’s urban regeneration has turned it into a tourist sensation. Heralded as the top travel destination of 2017 by The Lonely Planet, this city never stops metamorphosing. On July 2nd, the LGV Océane, a new generation of high speed train will make its debut, connecting Bordeaux to Paris in just two hours. All summer long, our dynamic city will host a series of cultural events for the enjoyment of locals and visitors. Under the title Landscapes, the programme will celebrate Bordeaux’s love affair with modern architecture. Each Spring we put together a new edition of this indispensable guide to the city we love. Bordeaux J’adore is your travel Bible, so keep it close, and you won’t miss out on any of the Summer’s festivities. Enjoy yourself, you’re in Bordeaux! Marie-Luce Ribot

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PHOTO ALEXANDRE SIOC'HAN DE KERSABIEC

Bordeaux J’adore

C O N T E N T S

Interview, Allan Sichel, an Englishman in Bordeaux . . . . . . . . . . 04 Calendar, To do list . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 06

BORDEAUX J’ADORE

SPECIAL FEATURE

Publication éditée par l’Ofﬁce de Tourisme et des Congrès de Bordeaux Métropole, 12 cours du 30 Juillet, CS 31366, F-33080 Bordeaux cedex

Bordeaux Blend, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Bordeaux Wine Trip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Vinexpo and me . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 C’est la fête ! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

UN MAGAZINE CONÇU PAR L'AGENCE DE DÉVELOPPEMENT DU GROUPE SUD OUEST DIRECTRICE : MARIE-LUCE RIBOT

On the go, Get your sporting ﬁx . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 It takes two, baby, Alice in BordeauxLand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

RESPONSABLE DU DÉVELOPPEMENT DES ÉDITIONS DÉLÉGUÉES : ASTRID DUPONT-FAUVILLE

Passing fancy, Let's hit the shops! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

RÉALISATION GRAPHIQUE : ARMEL ESTÈVE

Food, Hottest tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Touches of genius, The Michelin Galaxy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

PHOTO DE COUVERTURE : ELOÏSE VENE

Good to learn, Chefs open up their kitchens to us . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

RÉDACTION : CAROLINE MATTHEWS, SUZANNE NELSON, CLARE O'HAGAN

Rising star, Bordeaux loves design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Aquitaine Museum, Bordeaux's golden age . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Rare and precious, Small and beautiful museums . . . . . . . . . . . 60 On the waterfront, A river runs through it . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Sea-farers all, 3 Atlantic sisters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Graves-Sauternes, The golden girl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

IMPRESSION : CARTOLUX, 4, AVENUE GUSTAVE-EIFFEL 33600 PESSAC, TÉL. : 06 09 72 97 01 IMPRIMÉ SUR DU PAPIER PEFC FABRIQUÉ EN ESPAGNE, 100 % FIBRE VIERGE, PRODUIT À PARTIR DE FORÊTS DURABLEMENT GÉRÉES

Bassin d'Arcachon, Summer paradises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Favorite spots, A day and a night with Sophie Téchoueyres . . . . . 83 Lascaux, The Pre-History’s Cistine Chapel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Near Lascaux, Our picks in the Perigord Noir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Top tips, Unmissable Nouvelle-Aquitaine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 LGV Océane, Coming soon to station near you . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Good to Know, Best guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

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L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ - A CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION

Tasting at the CIVB wine bar. PHOTO JB NADEAU

—— INTERVIEW ——

Allan Sichel

An Englishman in Bordeaux CAROLINE MATTHEWS

The new President of the Bordeaux Wine Council unlocks a few of the mysteries surrounding our famous wines SICHEL IS A NAME WHICH HAS BEEN SYNONYMOUS WITH THE BORDEAUX WINE WORLD SINCE THE LATE 19TH-CENTURY. An Anglo-French family, the Sichels played an important role in rebuilding post-war trade of Bordeaux wine and also the fortunes of estates such as Château Palmer, which they part own. Unsurprisingly then that the CIVB (Bordeaux Wine Council) appointed Allan, the eldest member of the current generation, as its president in July 2016.

Many in the wine trade consider the Sichel family to be more English than French. Would you agree? In my natural environment, it is normal to speak a mixture of French and English, a legacy from my parents who were British-born but who settled in Bordeaux, which is where I was born. This duality is compounded by the fact that my wife is English and my three children spoke their mother tongue before they learned French. It is telling that our English friends

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affectionately call us frogs whilst in Bordeaux, we are referred to as les Anglais. How d o y o u ma n a g e y o u r ti m e between the CIVB and your role at Maison Sichel? The idea is to spend 50%/50% at the CIVB and our family merchant house. As there are only a few tram stops between them, I manage to be at both locations throughout the day. My commitment with the CIVB is over a three-year period, therefore I have become better at delegating responsibilities to my brothers, all 4 of whom work for our negociant business. Both of my sons have also joined the team so it really is a family affair! What would you like to achieve during your time as president? Our wine region can no longer just rely on consumers that only drink Bordeaux. Given that our vineyards represent 2% of wine production worldwide, our aim is to have an equivalent share of every wine consumer’s consumption! To achieve this will involve demystifying the misconception that Bordeaux wine is too complex and expensive. Of equal importance are our efforts to reinforce the long-held belief of Bordeaux as the Wine Capital of the World. The inauguration of La Cité du Vin was the ideal catalyst for this initiative and considering the role that research, education and tourism have to play in achieving this objective, the CIVB is now working more closely than before with the town hall and the tourist ofﬁce.

The Gabriel. PHOTO D.R.

And when you are not at work? Our ofﬁce is on the quays and when I am in Bordeaux, I tend to not stray too far from the Garonne. Favorite lunch spots include the Basque-themed Makila Kafé or the more traditional La Belle Epoque, both of which afford views of the river while the gastronomic restaurant Le Gabriel on Place de la Bourse has the added attraction of overlooking the Miroir d’Eau fountain. My decision to live in the village of Margaux reﬂects my preference for a more rural landscape and here too, being near

water is a favorite pastime, whether it be taking a motor boat trip from the port of Macau or cycling along the D2 towards Pauillac, glimpsing the estuary along the way. Our family château – Angludet – is often the starting point for these excursions. Informal family gatherings of a Sunday can develop into bike rides with my brothers through the vineyards and pine forests, to Lac d’Hourtin or the coast. Although we all work together, we also enjoy spending time together whether it be doing sport or going on holiday.

‘I tend to not stray too far from the Garonne.‘

The Makila Kafé. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

His three favourite addresses in Bordeaux

Makila Kafé

Hangar 17, Quai de Bacalan 05 57 87 33 21

La Belle Epoque Quai Louis XVIII 05 56 79 14 58

Le Gabriel

10, place de la Bourse 05 56 30 00 80

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TO DO LIST

—— CALENDAR ——

CLARE O’HAGAN

10th Edition of ‘Bordeaux Fête le ﬂeuve’. PHOTO ERIC BOULOUMIE

LMAY 2017L 18th May-17th September

‘Sculpter Le Trait’ Exhibition at the Galerie des Beaux-Arts Georges Dorignac, (1879-1925), studied at the Municipal School of ﬁne art in Bordeaux and then went on to produce colourful paintings inﬂuenced by

the impressionist and post-impressionists. He later became known for his striking ‘noir’ portraits in charcoal. www.musba-bordeaux.fr 20th-21st May

Week-end des grands crus Discover the subtle universe of Bordeaux’s Grand Crus with tastings of over 100 wines, pairing dinners and exclusive wine tours. www.ugcb.net 25th-28th May

BGF Bordeaux’s Geek Festival Hoardes of youngsters disguised as characters from Lord of the Rings, Game of Thrones and Starwars descend on Bordeaux Lac’s Parc des Expositions. www.geek-festival.fr

Fête de la Morue in Bègles in the south of Bordeaux. PHOTO STEPHANE LARTIGUE

25th-28th May

Bordeaux’s Fête Le Fleuve, 10th edition

week-long extravaganza. Boat trips are on offer to all, food stands and bar tents line the river, and concerts and ﬁrework displays kick off each night. This year for the second time, the prestigious solo-yachting event, La Solitaire Urgo Le Figaro sets sail from the Port de La Lune.

Celebrate Bordeaux’s ﬂuvial heritage at this

www.bordeauxfete-le-ﬂeuve.com

Fête de la Morue at Bègles Drying cod was a mainstay of Bordeaux’s economy in the 19th Century. A celebration of traditional culture with street theatre. 26th May-4th June

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29th May-3rd June

29th June- 5th November

Festival En Bonne Voix, in Pessac

Oh Couleurs!

Show-casing the talents of the French-language music scene. At Parc Razon. www.pessac.fr/ en-bonne-voix

At the Musée des Arts décoratifs et du design. An exhibition examining the concept of colour and the role it plays in the world of design. www.madd-bordeaux.fr

LJUNEL

LJULYL

LSEPTEMBERL

2nd July

15th-25th September

The opening of the LGV Océane, the 5th Generation TGV

Biennale D’Architecture de Design Agora

The new high-speed train service connecting Bordeaux to Paris in just 2 hours and 4 minutes. 8th July-15th September

4th June

L’été Metropolitain

Solitaire du Figaro URGO

A series of over 300 events – mostly free – across the city to celebrate summer in the city. Music, readings, burlesque, moonlit walks, open-air screenings. www.etemetropolitain.borde aux-metropole.fr

LAUGUSTL PHOTO D.R.

A ﬂotilla of half-tonne yachts will set sail from the Porte de La Lune this June, as they did in 2013 and 2015. Competitors will then navigate to Gijon, in Spain, then on to Concarneau and ﬁnally, Dieppe. This is one of the world’s most challenging solo sailing races, and the unpredictable currents, and the mass of driftwood being carried upriver on the Garonne will make conditions even tougher for the competitors.

Tutti

www.agorabordeaux.fr

LOCTOBERL 19th-25th October

FIFIB (International Independent Film Festival) Show-casing the great auteurs of European and world cinema:- this year’s festival is hosted by Olivier Assayas, the director of Personal Shopper. www.ﬁﬁb.com

4th-6th August

21st-22nd October

The Reggae, Sun and Ska Festival

Fête du Vin Nouveau in the Chartrons District

During the Epicuriales on the allées de Tourny.

Europe’s biggest reggae festival takes place just 6km from Bordeaux! UB40 and Ky-Mani Marley, Steel Pulse and Tyro headline.

PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

www.reggaesunska.com

Bourru, the partiallyfermented wine harvested and produced at the beginning of Autumn is imbibed and celebrated all over France.

Green acid in ‘Oh couleurs!’ at the Madd.

www.lasolitaire-urgo.com 10th June

This year’s theme is the ‘countryside in motion, the countryside in progress’.

A participatory concert of 600 chorists in the auditorium of the Bordeaux Opera House. www.opera-bordeaux.com 15th June-27th August

Daniel Firman ‘Something Strange Happened Here’ at the Submarine Base The French sculptor working with plastic takes over this vast space. www.bordeaux.fr 18th June-1st July

Les Epicuriales A series of restaurants in tents pop up on The Allées de Tourny for this 2 weeklong gastronomic orgy. Open from lunch to dinner non stop from 11 am to 1 am. www.epicuriales.com

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WHAT’S HOT 1 Médoc Marathon, 9th September

Dubbed ‘The Longest Marathon in the World’ this odyssey across the vineyards of the Medoc is not forthe faint-hearted. Not only are runners obliged to indulge in ﬁne foods and drink copious amounts of ﬁne wine, making 23 indulgent pit-stops during the course of the race, but they do all this in costume. Oh, and did I mention, there’s a late-night pasta-party and drinking session the night before! Are they superhuman? www.marathondumedoc.com

2 The Ocean Climax Festival in Cenon, 8th-10th September A music festival mobilising against the degradation of the world’s oceans. Big crowds of up to 8000 will descend on Parc Palmer for 3 days of music and sporting displays, plus the chance to engage with leading NGOs and climate change activists. This year’s line-up has still not been announced, but last year Air and De La Soul headlined. Last year’s sporting spectacles included BMX and Bike-Polo displays! Parc Palmer, Cenon www.oceanclimax.fr

Médoc Marathon. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

3 Agora Biennale, September 15th-25th

A cultural event exploring Bordeaux’s ambitious and multi-faceted urban renewal which began in 1995. Taking in urban planning and architecture, theatre, photography and literature, Agora is also a forum for debate around urban development. Hangar 14, 14, quai des Chartrons www.agorabordeaux.fr

4 Riding the ultimate wave - on a river! 22nd September In 2015, a youtube video of 77 surfers, kayakers and jet-skiers all riding the same low, continuously rolling wave went viral. A tidal bore or mascaret, formed when a wide river, The Gironde splits off into two narrower rivers, the Garonne and the Dordogne. The bottleneck, and the changeable tides on these rivers, creates a wave which can be surfed for hours. Just up river from Bordeaux, between Libourne and St. Pardon, surfers convene on a shallow spot in the river to wait for the wave. Because the change of the tide sets it in motion, they can anticipate the exact second to hop onto their boards! This natural phenomenon takes place every Spring and Autumn Equinox, the latter falls on the 22nd September. www.standupjournal.com

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—— SPECIAL FEATURE ——

Bordeaux Blend Wine & Life CAROLINE MATTHEWS

Here wine is much more than just something to drink, it is a way of life!

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PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

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Welcome at Vinexpo. PHOTO JEAN-PIERRE MULLER AFP

6 INBORDEAUX WORK IN THE WINE BUSINESS; easy to believe when you consider that there are at least 6,500 estates, over 30 cooperatives, 720 million bottles, 300 merchant houses and 90 courtiers involved in creating and selling the 750,000 million or so bottles produced on average each year. The industry is as intertwined with the fabric of the local society as the roots of old vines are with the gravel and limestone found in the vineyards. Unsurprising when you consider that the Bordeaux wine region is one of the oldest in the world, dating back to the arrival of the Romans over 2,000 years ago. Today wine is second only to aeronautics in its importance to the local economy, with the positive effects of an exceptional vintage being reverberated throughout the city. And it is not just the wine that is of high quality. Credited as the birthplace of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, it is ﬁtting then that the most relevant research on these varieties is conducted in Bordeaux at the ISVV (Institut des Sciences de la Vigne et du Vin) which is also a centre for œnological education. Tourists too can expect an enhanced experience with La Cité du Vin and biennial Fête le Vin, some of the many ways to discover the city and its wines. IS SAID THAT ONE OUT OF EVERY

HABITANTS OF

La Cité du Vin Despite its name, Bordeaux’s latest museum is about more than just wine. Its striking form, said to resemble the movement of wine in a glass, is a draw for structural design lovers for whom a daily, 1 hour ‘Spotlight on

Architecture‘ visit was created. Judging by the events calendar, it is clear too that the organizers are not necessarily targeting wine enthusiasts, with cultural, social and political themes like ‘Is wine good for our health?‘ and ‘Should wine be taught in schools?‘. Even the permanent exhibition, where the average visitor spends almost 3 hours, was not conceived to educate about wine. Exhibits such as the Terroir Table, with its life size images of winemakers and ever-changing landscapes, are designed as experiences which leave an impression rather than impart knowledge. The aroma buffet with its large, glass, bell-shaped cloche, housing a range of items from leather gloves and musty books to liquorice wheels and pencil shavings appeals to the emotions and senses. Such has been positive impression of many first-time visitors that some have been known to exchange their €20 entry ticket for a €48 annual pass. Much of what the museum has to offer however, is accessible without paying an entrance fee and as such, you are free to survey the Latitude20 wine shop with over 800 references from 80 countries, settle down to study some of the 2,000 books and magazines in the first-floor Reading Room and admire the view of the city and river from the Belvédère Bar on the top floor. It can also be an opportunity to book your place on a 1 hour, wine and culture workshop, learn about the excursions to the vineyards that are organized by the Wine Tours desk and shop at the concept boutique with its wine related gifts. Whatever attracts you to La Cité du Vin, one thing is for sure that your first visit will not be your last.

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‘Today wine is second only to aeronautics in its importance to the local economy.‘ PHOTO ANAKA

Reading room at La Cité du Vin. PHOTO ANAKA / LA CITÉ DU VIN / XTU ARCHITECTS

Stunning spaces, terriﬁc architecture. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

‘The aroma buffet with its large, glass, bell-shaped cloche, housing a range of items from leather gloves and musty books to liquorice wheels and pencil shavings appeals to the emotions and senses.‘ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

scheduled plus the evening tour which culminates with an aperitif in the classic Bordelais Café des Arts.

‘Le Vin‘, a canvas from Léon Lhermite. PHOTO D.R.

The Temporary exhibitions Designed to attract a broader range of visitors and not just those interested in wine, La Cité du Vin has committed to a schedule of two temporary exhibitions per year: one artistic and the other focusing on an individual wine region. No mean undertaking, when you consider the lead time of 2 years minimum for each and the various organizations and experts involved in the planning. Bistrot! From Baudelaire to Picasso (17 March until 21 June) features over 100 works, including photographs and paintings from artists, some such as Mark Rothko who have never before been exhibited in Bordeaux. Divided into 4 sections, the exhibition has as an overriding theme the role played by cafés, bistrots and other convivial spaces, in artistic creations and society in general, from the 18th-century to the modern day.

‘Recordings of passages from Baudelaire’s poetry, speciﬁcally ‘The Soul of Wine‘ can be listed to at various stages throughout the visit as well as songs from the last century about bistrots and bars.‘

Georgia: The Birthplace of Wine (31 July – 5 November) is a ﬁtting start to the museum’s focus on speciﬁc viticultural regions, given its long history with making and consuming wine. Organized in conjunction with the National Museum of Georgia and the Georgian wine Association, the exhibition features over 100 works of archeology and ethnology, proving a wine culture that dates back over 5,000 years. Knives for vine pruning, vessels for storing wine and jewellery depicting grapes all form part of the display, many of which were originally unearthed in parts of the country which still make wine today. Georgians are rightfully proud of their winemaking history and legends and folklore which make reference to these activities can be viewed during the exhibition. The importance of Christianity

‘Georgians are rightfully proud of their winemaking history and legends and folklore which make reference to these activities can be viewed during the exhibition.‘ which was adapted in the 4th-centuryis also in evidence, notably in the form of early crosses which were made using vines. Following a golden age for viticulturists in the middle ages, the industry suffered greatly with the arrival of Phylloxera which devastated both wild and cultivated vines. Trade today relies heavily on the relationship with Russia which remains a strong market for the wines, but quality producers are looking more to other European markets. The future of Georgian wine will form part of the discussion of cultural events organized around the exhibition and a number of wine tasting workshops with producers from the regions of Kakheti and Racha-Lechkhumi are also scheduled.

Kakheti, Telavi, Rtveli 2011– Traditional wine harvesting in Georgia. PHOTO GEORGIAN WINE ASSOCIATION

In addition to paintings by Toulouse-Lautrec and Vuillard, as examples of how artists of their time used painting as a way of capturing the atmosphere in a café, later works by Rothko and Dix focus on the solitary female in a bar, coinciding with the emancipation at that time. Well-known photos by Doisneau and Cartier-Bresson are put to great use portraying both the rich and poor enjoying alcohol (Champagne for the former, red wine for the latter) and the resultant attractions. Recordings of passages from Baudelaire’s poetry, speciﬁcally ‘The Soul of Wine‘ can be listed to at various stages throughout the visit as well as songs from the last century about bistrots and bars. Extracts from ﬁlms depicting the importance of Parisienne cafés, Irish pubs and American diners in cinema are shown in a dedicated space at the centre of the exhibition. Daily guided tours are available and other events with art historians are

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Sunny day at Saint-Emillion. PHOTO DAVID REMAZEILLES

—— SPECIAL FEATURE ——

Bordeaux Wine Trip CAROLINE MATTHEWS

At 112,000 hectares of vineyard, Bordeaux is the largest AOC vineyard in France. The creation of the 6 wine routes means its easier to explore than ever ONE

OF THE FIRST SIGHTS TO GREET A VISITOR TO THE PER-

MANENT EXHIBITION

at La Cité du Vin is the aerial footage of some of the world’s greatest vineyards and whether you are watching Stellenbosch with the majestic Table Mountain, the Douro Valley with its precipitous terraces or Tuscany with its rolling hills, it is difﬁcult not to get too carried away. Fortunately for those seeking to extend their vinous experience following a visit to the museum, a wine tour information desk is situated on the ground ﬂoor, offering the possibility of discovering the most emblematic parts of Bordeaux’s

wine region. Managed in partnership with the city’s tourist ofﬁce and Gironde Tourisme, the service includes a dedicated website for those who would like to plan their own tour. Free to browse on onsite tablets, www.bordeauxwinetrip.com highlights six wine routes which encompass key vineyards but also feature local gastronomy and heritage and suggestions on transport and accommodation. Dedicated counselors are available for advice and to book excursions which depart from the museum, maybe even one day to the regions shown in the ﬁlm!

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1 Bordeaux: gateway to the vineyards

No need to worry for those whose stay will not extend beyond the city; there are enough wine related activities in Bordeaux to occupy most œnophiles. To demystify what can seem a complicated subject, start with a tasting class at the Ecole du Vin or at the very least stop by its Bar à Vin which serves wine from some of the lesser known appellations including Clairet and Crémant. Part of the Urban Wine Trail, it is one of 20 wine bars dotted throughout the city, pinpointing where to taste amongst others, the wines of Bordeaux’s famous châteaux. Also included on this list is Verre Ô Vin, next-door to the Wine and Trade Museum. Both are worth a detour with the latter detailing the history of the wine trade in the Chartrons and the important role of merchants. The city’s heritage is also on the agenda during the evening port cruises departing from La Cité du Vin; the ideal way to appreciate the history and architecture of Bordeaux, washed down with local wine and oysters.

Wine bar La Ligne rouge. PHOTO THIBAUD MORITZ

2 Saint-Emilion, Pomerol & Fronsac

Focused on the vineyards around the town of Libourne, this route includes bastide towns, medieval villages and a lot of Merlot! The limestone and clay vineyards around Saint-Emilion provide a perfect expression of this grape which is synonymous with the region. Visits of the village organized by the local tourist office are a great way to appreciate the viticultural history and importance of wine and can be adapted for a younger audience. Tours of the vineyards can also be fun for children, especially if the chosen mode of transport is horse drawn carriage, tuk tuk or even hot air balloon and some châteaux, such as Soutard organize treasure hunts. Departing from the Bordeaux Tourist Office which incorporate a combination of family-owned estates and classified growths. Walk near Fronsac. PHOTO DAVID REMAZEILLES

Château Lamothe-Bergeron. PHOTO DAVID REMAZEILLES

3 Médoc

As perhaps the most famous part of the Bordeaux region, the peninsula to the north of the city known as the Médoc often tops a wine lovers list of places to visit. Home to almost all of the classified growths from 1855, most are visible whilst travelling along the D2 route de châteaux and some, such as Du Tertre and Lagrange are open for visits. Estates using the Cru Bourgeois classification are also based here, over 200 of which welcome visitors. Of the afternoon tours which depart from Bordeaux, one on Wednesdays culminates with a river cruise down the Gironde estuary and includes a wine tasting on board and at a Médocain estate before the return journey by bus. Another features visits of classified châteaux and finishes with an art de vivre experience of a leisurely aperitif.

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4 Entre-deux-Mers

The rivers Garonne and Dordogne play an important part here, not least in giving the region its name. Marking the borders to the north and west, the undulating hills and vineyards slopes contribute to the Entre-deux-Mers being one of the most picturesque parts of the region. Despite the hilly terrain, cyclists are regularly found amongst the vines and fortified towns, attracted by in part, a converted railway track. Many tours are self-guided advocating stopping at the Sauve-Majeure Abbey and some small family estates along the way to taste the dry white wine for which the appelation is known. The sweet, golden wines of Cadillac are one of the attractions on another half-day tour featuring a visit to the château of the same name. Remains of the Sauve-Majeure Abbey. PHOTO DAVID REMAZEILLES

5 Blaye & Bourg

Often referred to as the côtes, the vineyards of these areas north east of the city are on the banks of the estuary, facing the Médoc. While Blaye is well known for its 17th-century citadel, Bourg has a number of 12th-century Romanesque churches and both are associated with easy-drinking, red wines produced from a majority of family-owned estates. A tour of the walled town of Blaye completes this excursion before the return trip to La Cité du vin by boat. Those wanting to discover Bourg can enjoy a cruise up the estuary with its traditional carrelet ﬁshing huts before disembarking for a tutored tasting at the glassfronted Maison du Vin, perched at the top of the town. Touring both areas by electric bike is also a popular activity as is being a harvester for a day. Blaye and Bourg-sur-Gironde by the paths. PHOTO DAVID REMAZEILLES

6 Graves & Sauternes

Château Smith Haut Laﬁtte in Martillac. PHOTO DAVID REMAZEILLES

Credited as the birthplace of Bordeaux viticulture, the vineyards of Pessac-Léognan are also the closest to the city. Visitors do not have to travel far to see vines, with Pape Clément and Les Carmes Haut-Brion both located less than 30 minutes from the centre and accessible by public transport. Deeper into the appellation, estates such as châteaux Léognan and Smith Haut Lafitte have on-site restaurant meaning there is no rush to leave after a visit and almost guaranteeing they remain open on weekends. Many of the classified growth estates of Graves, such as châteaux Haut-Bailly and Carbonnieux welcome visitors for a tasting of red and white wine while further south, amongst the 27 classified growths of Sauternes and Barsac, showcasing the famed sweet wine to tourists is gainingin popularity. A visit to some of these latter estates forms the basis of an afternoon excursion to the area from La Cité du Vin. Lovers of Lillet cannot forgo a stop by the distillery in Podensac.

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—— SPECIAL FEATURE ——

Vinexpo and me CAROLINE MATTHEWS

Bordeaux is home to one of the most important events in the wine business calendar. Some veterans of the show share their suggestions and memories SINCE 1981,

THE TRADE SHOW HAS BE-

COME THE MUST-ATTEND EVENT FOR THE WINE WORLD,

attracting over 2,500 exhibitors and almost 50,000 visitors from 150 countries to Bordeaux every 2 years. Vinexpo Hong Kong takes place in intervening years since 1998. We hear some experiences and advice from previous attendees.

As testament to the success of the show, Vinexpo can be an overwhelming place. The Parc des Expositions encompasses a number of different hangars, brimming with exhibitors so it is best to come prepared and make appointments with those you want to meet with in advance. It is a great opportunity to do business but staying focused may have to entail refusing invitations to châteaux lunches and parties. As a wine retailer, the show offers us the chance to check the pulse of the wine market and ensure that we are visible and kept front of mind for merchants and châteaux.

Séverine Bonnie, Marketing Director, Château Malartic-Lagravière Owning wine estates in two different countries means we have different approaches to Vinexpo. As our Bordeaux wines are sold by negociants, we support their activities by meeting clients on their stands or attending tastings organized by the Union des Grands Crus. With DiamAndes, we are present on the Wines of Argentina stand and meet with buyers there. Social events are also important and in 2015 we held a party combining our 2 estates: an Argentine asado with tango dancers at Château Malartic-Lagravière.

Fiona Morrison MW and MD of Thienpont Wine It is a great moment to meet up informally with colleagues, something which often seems to happen en route from the car park to the exhibition centre! Tasting wines from around the world is another key attraction, especially considering 5 of the top 10 exhibiting countries are non-EU, and the special focus in 2017 will be on Spanish producers. For ﬁrst-time visitors or anyone in need of assistance, a stop at the multi-lingual staffed concierge Meeting Point in hall 1 is a must. We also take advantage of the fact that winemaker friends are town, to host small dinners at Le Pin.

Romy Sia, Owner of Wine Story, The Philippines 2009 was the ﬁrst year I visited Vinexpo and I remember during a lunch at Cheval Blanc thinking how welcoming the wine world was. Once our high-end wine stores opened in 2010, I took advantage of the short distance from Manila to attend the shows in Hong Kong and arranged for my sales staff to accompany me. As Wine Story values relationships, Vinexpo has always been the opportunity to meet with producers and invite them to our stores with the result that together, we have changed the Philippine wine scene forever. My personal highlight was my investiture into the Commanderie de Bontemps in 2015.

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PHOTOS D.R. / ROMY SIA : VINEXPO 2016 HK - L’ABUS D’ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ - A CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION

Shaun Bishop, CEO of JJ Buckley, USA

PHOTO SACHA ALEXIS LICHINE PHOTO D.R

PHOTO DOMAINE DE CHEVALIER

For a name synonymous with French wine in the USA, it was ﬁtting that a number of American stars attended this fete, hosted by Sacha Lichine. Violin-playing gypsies, magicians and giant robots were just some of the amusements in a year which

saw the investiture of Donald Sutherland, Charlton Heston, Jerry Lewis and Brigitte Nielsen into the Commanderie du Bontemps; a wine brotherhood which promotes Bordeaux wine and always co-organizes the event. Dinner for over 800 guests was by Alain Ducasse.

Lynch Bages, 23 June 1989 The first of many to be organized by Jean-Michel Cazes, this fête took over a year to plan and involved the creation of a space rocket in the cellars. On arrival, guests were given a book inspired by Jules Verne, which told the tale of a space mission to sell wine on other planets. A cast of 60 performed the story during dinner, to an audience that included a number of real astronauts. The event was also memorable for the inclusion of a non-French wine on the menu: Quinta do Noval 1966.

PHOTO CHÂTEAU SMITH HAUT LAFITTE

Prieuré-Lichine, 23 June 1990

Domaine de Chevalier, 25 June 1993

Smith Haut Laﬁtte, 23 June 1995

Every now and then the fête is held in Pessac-Léognan. Celebrating 10 years under the ownership of the Bernard family, this fete was the ﬁrst large event of its kind, with over 1,500 attendees. Silhouettes of boats were dotted throughout the vineyards and performers in costumes ranging from a bunch of grapes to a barrel cellar entertained the crowd. A large jazz orchestra unveiled from behind a curtain at the end of dinner conceived by Jean- Marie Amat, signaled the start of the after-party!

Along with Beychevelle and Phélan-Ségur, the fête has been held at this château three times. This was the first for Florence and Daniel Cathiard, owners of the estate since 1990 and was attended by Jean-Claude Killy, their former team mate from the 60’s French Olympic ski team. As is the custom, the evening culminated with fireworks over the vineyards and the experience did not dissuade the Cathiards from hosting again in 2007.

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—— SPECIAL FEATURE ——

C’est la fête ! CAROLINE MATTHEWS

PHOTO ORMES DE PEZ

PHOTO COMMANDERIE DU BONTEMPS

In the world of wine, there is nothing to compare to it. A party hosted by a château, held after Vinexpo with up to 1,600 attendees, most of whom are wine producers or trade but also famous faces from the realms of music, cinema, politics and even royal families. It’s the Fête de la Fleur!

Ormes de Pez, 22 June 2002

Mouton Rothschild, 26 June 2003

With a track record which also featured Pichon Baron in 1992 and Cantenac Brown in 1997, this marked Jean-Michel Cazes’ fourth and ﬁnal organization of the fête. Guests, including Gérard Depardieu, were treated to a performance inspired by detective novels based in 7th-century China, whilst deciphering clues given by protagonist Judge Lo as to the identity of the wines which were served blind. Thierry Marx chose the menu which paired guinea fowl with Château Cos d’Estournel ’86.

Given her career in the theatre, the Baroness Philippine sought to recreate the atmosphere of the Cannes ﬁlm festival for this memorable evening which included French star, Catherine Deneuve and a host of other actors who arrived in a specially chartered plane. Following dinner which featured the grand vin of the château from 1982, a short ﬁlm marking the 150th anniversary of the Rothschild family’s ownership was shown before surprise guest, Placido Domingo performed ‘A hymn to Mouton‘, written for the occasion. It was rumored that Bordeaux airport stayed open through the night to return allowing guests to Paris.

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PHOTO GAEL KERBAOL

PHOTO CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE

Du Tertre, 23 June 2005 Sumptuousness was also a word associated with this fête which seated guests in an orange tent which had previously been used for the King of Spain’s wedding, decorated with 16th and 17th Dutch masterpieces, 100 crystal chandeliers and tulips ﬂown in from Amsterdam on the day, all in acknowledgement of the nationality of the owners. Sadly Eric Jelgersma was unable to attend following a serious accident just weeks beforehand, but insisted that the shown should go on. Politician Frédéric Mitterand was amongst those inaugurated into the Commanderie du Bontemps

Issan, 25 June 2009

Investiture of Carole Bouquet and Anna Mouglalis in 2013

PHOTO NICOLAS TUCAT AFP

PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

Jardin Public, 27 June 2014 Even every second year when Vinexpo is held in Hong Kong, the fête still takes place in Bordeaux but is not hosted by a château. Previous locations have included the Hangars (converted w i n e m e r c h a n t w a r e h o u s e s ) along the quays, the Places des Quinconces and the Jardin Public. Alain Juppé has been a regular attendee since he was ﬁrst elected as Mayor of Bordeaux in 1995. Rain did little to dampen the spirits of guests on this occasion who were entertained by swing musicians.

PHOTO CHATEAU MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE

PHOTO COMMANDERIE DU BONTEMPS

Not all châteaux are as lucky with the weather as this fête which welcomed over 1,500 guests to the southern Médoc. Actors Sophie Marceau and Christopher Lambert added glamour to an occasion which was hosted by Emmanuel Cruse, who had become the Grand Master of the Commanderie du Bontemps the previous year. 3 Michelin-starred chef, Michel Guérard oversaw the dinner menu and later on, Michael Jackson’s hits dominated the dance ﬂoor following his death earlier in the day.

Malartic-Lagravière, 21 June 2017 All those who have hosted in the past would agree that the fete is a great opportunity to show off their château at its best. No less so than this year’s hosts who have uprooted some old vines so to accommodate a 2250m² tent which will take a month to construct. Fittingly the event will be in Pessac-Léognan and will celebrate two milestones; 20 years of the Bonnie family at the helm of their estate and 30 years since the formation of the appellation. Held on a Wednesday evening to coincide with the new, shorter, 4-day Vinexpo, the 1,5 00 guests can look forward to a light show by the company responsible for the illumination of the Eiffel Tower and dinner by 3* Michelin chef, Yannick Alléno

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The Stade Matmut Atlantique hosted the football European Football Championships in 2016. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

—— ON THE GO!——

Get Your Sporting Fix CLARE O’HAGAN

Whether you're into mainstream sports like football or rugby, or you get your buzz from skate-boarding or stand-up paddle, Bordeaux will cater to your every whim H IT

THE QUAYS ANY DAY OF THE YEAR

WHEN THE SUN IS SHINING

and witness the hoardes of cyclists, skate-boarders and rollerbladers free-wheeling alongside the glistening Garonne. People here take real pride in travelling under their own steam. Sharp-suited businessmen whiz by on longboards, ofﬁce workers casually jog an 8km circuit in their lunch hour, and kids show off stunts on scooters at one of the biggest outdoor skating arenas in France, the Colbert Skate Park.

Young people at the skate park on the quays. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

La Solitaire du Figaro will start in Bordeaux. PHOTO ALEXIS COURCOUX

The Union Bordeaux Bègles (UBB) are a major force in the world of French rugby, playing in the premier league. Football fans can go and watch Bordeaux’s Girondins play in their new home - the Stade Matmut Atlantique, which opened in 2015 and was the city’s ﬂagship venue during 2016’s European Championships.

Chaban stadium welcomes rugby fans. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

This year, the celebrated yachting competition, La Solitaire Urgo Le Figaro sets sail in Bordeaux at the Fête du ﬂeuve, or River Festival. One of the most challenging solo sailing races in the world, this event draws huge crowds wherever the ﬂotilla of one-tonne boats docks. Beginning on the 2nd June, the course will take over a month to complete, this year’s itinerary taking in Gijon and Concarneau before culminating in Dieppe.

‘But why watch when you can take part?‘

The Marathon de Nuit kicks off Place de la Bourse. PHOTO BORDEAUX METROPOLE

But why watch when you can take part? Running is big here. In mid-April, the roads are closed to trafﬁc for the Marathon de Nuit. The race kicks off from the place de La Bourse, and takes takes in Saint-Genès then heads towards Pessac and its vineyards, as well as many of the city’s architectural icons, all spectacularly illuminated. Runners can choose to enter the half marathon, 10 kilometers run or the 4-persons relay if the full 26 miles is too daunting.

The Bordeaux Triathlon is a three-day event held on Bordeaux Lac. This year it takes place on the 7th, 8th and 9th July. If wild swimming is your thing but you prefer to pass on the running and cycling, you can plunge yourself into the Garonne along with 500 other wet-suit-clad men and women for the Traversée de Bordeaux river race in June.

The multi-sports area on the quays near Saint Michel. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

When it comes to sporting facilities, this city punches well above its weight. There are several climbing walls, several swimming pools - one Olympic-size, and an ice-rink. Add to this great weather and the city’s human scale which means you can step out of your home, hotel or ofﬁce and be on the riverfront in minutes. In Bordeaux there’s really no excuse not to be active.

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PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER / TUCAREINES

—— IT TAKES TWO, BABY! ——

Alice in BordeauxLand CLARE O’HAGAN

Alice and Jerome Tourbier run Les Sources de Caudalie, a 5 star hotel and spa in the grounds of the Chateau Smith Haut Laﬁtte, only few 12 kilometers from Bordeaux. Last year the hotel was awarded ‘Palace’ status by the French Tourist Board, putting it among the top 23 hotels in the country ALICE TOURBIER

GRENOBLE TO 15, when her parents Daniel and Florence Cathiard bought Chateau Smith Haut Lafﬁtte. Until then, life had revolved around the mountains and her initial impression of the Gironde was ‘but it’s so ﬂat!‘. This dismay soon gave way to a deep love of the huge skies of her adopted region. She attended lycée in Bordeaux, and put down new roots. Alice has always respected the way the Bordelais pass the appreciation of local ingredients and wine from generation to generation. Now she is proud to be an amabassador of WAS TRANSPLANTED FROM

THE SOUTHWEST AT THE AGE OF

the Bordelais art de vivre. At the hotel’s 2 Michelin-starred restaurant La Grand’Vigne, she has encouraged her chef, Nicolas Masse to let the ingredients speak for themselves. A huge fan of the southwest’s produits de terroir himself, Nicolas is happy to comply. The Bordeaux in which Alice spent her adolescence is very different to the dynamic metropolis of today. ‘So many talented outsiders are choosing to come here now. It’s exciting’, she enthuses. She opened a Caudalie boutique and spa a few months ago in the city centre, on Cours de L'Intendance. We asked her where she likes to spend her down-time in the city.

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PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

Alice's Little Black Book of Bordeaux addresses

L’Univerre PHOTO VINCENT BENGOLD

This restaurant has an amazing selection of Old Bordeaux and wines from other regions of France. I recently drank an impressive Burgundy there. They also serve my distant cousin Sylvain Cathiard’s Vosne Romanée wine. 40, rue Lecocq, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 23 01 53

Ma Première Boutique For clothes, I always head straight there. Everything is so wearable. They stock one of my favourite designers, Isabel Marant. I bought this grey jacket there by her that I adore.

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

11, rue Maucoudinat, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 81 57 01

Mollat

33, rue du Cancera, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 81 18 24

15, rue Vital-Carles, 33080 Bordeaux, 05 56 56 40 40

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

For us it is always a pleasure to leave Les Sources de Caudalie to enjoy very different food in town. The cuisine is so innovative and colourful at Miles. It was launched by four chefs from different parts of the world, all of whom are very well-travelled. We are happy that they chose to settle down in Bordeaux!

This is my favourite shop in Bordeaux! It’s the biggest independent book-store in France, and they’ve really proved they can stand up to Amazon. They give good advice when you’re hunting for a book. When I go, I ﬁrst check how well they’re selling our latest book, Art de Vivre au Coeur des Vignes éditions Glénat. The food and travel section is my favourite. Last time I bought my friend Mimi Thorisson’s new cook book, French Country Cooking, Meals and Moments from A Village in the Vineyards. I also like contemporary novels. I recently bought Fates and Furies, by Lauren Groff, an American author. It’s a sinister take on a love story. My kids love comic books like Les Legendaires or Tintin.

Miles

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PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Le Point rouge PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

This bar is almost local for us, and they have 1000 wines and 100 cocktails! L’Absinthe is my favourite cocktail. Jerome and I own a hotel outside Paris called Les Etangs de Corot. Corot was the ﬁrst impressionist painter and he loved to drink absinthe, so we had to taste it! It is served in the traditional way. First a measure of absinthe is poured into a glass, then a perforated silver spoon is placed on top of the glass, and a sugar cube balanced on the spoon. Then, water is slowly poured onto the sugar cube which dissolves. This bar is a great place to socialise in. We were there recently with our friend Benoit Trocard from chateau Clos Dubreuil. I thought their chocolat and caramel tartlet was delicious and a perfect match with the red wine.

Darwin This series of converted warehouses is great. I love the concept of open-space design. Here businesses and artists share resources and collaborate economically, all helping each other out. My kids have skateboarding lessons sometimes at the indoor skatepark in the Hangar. 87, quai des Queyries, 33100 Bordeaux, 05 56 77 52 06

Le 7 in la Cité du vin I love to take friends from out of town to the restaurant at The Cité du Vin. We’re good friends with Nicolas Lascombes, whose restaurant group also includes The Brasserie Bordelaise. If we go on a weekend we take our time trying a lot of wines.

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

1, quai de Paludate, 33800 Bordeaux, 05 56 94 94 40

Le Petit Souk This little toyshop is perfect when you need a present for a child – which I often do – my kids get invited to a lot of birthday parties! I love their night-lights in the shape of stars, clouds, apples, and pineapples. No child could be scared of the dark with one of these in their bedroom. 26, rue du Pas-Saint-Georges, 33000 Bordeaux, 05 56 90 83 01

134, quai de Bacalan, 33300 Bordeaux, 05 56 16 20 20

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Jane de Boy. PHOTO MAXIME ARTENZO

—— PASSING FANCY——

Let's hit the shops! CLARE O’HAGAN

Boutique-browsing is blissfully easy in Bordeaux, where so many of the best shops are within a stone's throw of one another ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jane de Boy Launched in 1999 from her family’s house in the exclusive beach resort, Cap Ferret, this concept store is the brainchild of Marie Simon, who took the distinctive name, Jane de Boy, from a peninsula of land where she roamed with her grandfather as a child. Marie’s empire has now expanded to 3 shops in the Arcachon Basin, and a fourth in Bordeaux. The latter opened to a fanfare in November 2016, and the local glitterati flocked to it. On the first-floor of a sumptuous 19th century hotel particulier built by the Baron Haussmann, Simon presents her ‘boutiqueapartment’. Here, she creates a luxury shopping experience built on pure pleasure, giving clients a mini-holiday from their busy lives. They are invited to sink into one of the mustardyellow velvet Sarah Lavoine sofas, have a croissant, a coffee, or leaf through one of the hardback books displayed on low coffee tables. The spacious rooms are sumptuously decked-out in eclectic artworks, and gorgeous patchwork vintage rugs. The Murano chandeliers are offset by matt black walls. The effect is warm, inviting and playful. Jane de Boy wants to kit out your entire wardrobe for the season, and kit out your home too. Lingerie, swim-wear, books, art, clothes, jewellery, skin-care products, chocolate, perfume, candles, bicycles and even granola are all on offer. Men will adore the clothes, gadgets and state of the art boys’ toys. Marie is a curator of contemporary design talent, promoting the likes of Anine Bing, Love Stories lingerie, Briston watches and Golden Goose trainers among other innovators. The Jane de Boy brand is the last word in Boho-deluxe. No wonder Phillipe Starck pops in whenever he’s in town. If you can’t come, you’ll have to content yourself with the e-boutique, but it’s a far cry from the real thing. 8, cours du 30 Juillet, 33000 Bordeaux Jane de Boy. PHOTO MAXIME ARTENZO

PHOTO D.R.

The best boutiques, off the beaten-track

Sceno 10

Pia Pia and Monsieur Pia Pia

Tucked away in an elegant 18th century arcade displaying gorgeous stucco mouldings, this womenswear beacon lures passers-by. Owner Catherine Colombes lives up to her philosophy of ‘accessible luxury’. Her clothes, shoes, scarves and jewellery are eminently wearable. They do a winning line in jeans and slacks - key brands include Scotch & Soda, Reiko, Replay and Cimarron.

Rue Notre Dame is the old antiques quarter of Bordeaux, many say the city’s most enchanting street. As you saunter past the organic grocer’s and bustling restaurant terraces you won't be able to resist popping in to this elegant boutique, and when you do, you’ll be richly rewarded. Pia Pia champions casual and playful femininity, stocking a gamut of well-loved brands such as French favourites Soeur and Pomandère.

10, passage Sarget, 33000 Bordeaux

71 and 72, rue Notre-Dame, 33000 Bordeaux

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La Rafﬁnerie Bang in the heart of Bordeaux’s uber-trendy St. Pierre district, bristling with boutiques, La Rafﬁnerie is a concept store offering carefullyselected clothing, jewellery, feminine accessories and decorative objects which will steal your heart. Owner Valerie Lemenager opened her boudoir-style shop in 2012, and has tried to keep her prices down to earth. The be a u tifu l, ye t affor dabl e printed scarves by Inuitoosh and Momoni sparkly socks are a must-purchase! 6 bis, rue Macoudinat, 33000 Bordeaux

La Rafﬁnerie showcase.

PHOTO D.R. / QUENTIN SALINIER

PHOTO D.R.

Edgar Yet another gentlemen’s-outﬁtter bursting with original designs and witty accessories, the chaps in Bordeaux are spoilt for choice! Edgar purveys luxury streetwear with a smattering of classic style. It’s home to several independent and emerging designers, like German brand Kind of Guys and Portuguese Flannel from Porto. You’ll ﬁnd plenty of French brands too, check out Amor Luxe and Cuisse de Grenouille. We love the British duffel coats by Gloverall. 30, rue Saint-James, 33000 Bordeaux

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PHOTO D.R.

Graduate This store caters to all a modern man’s needs. Number 62 stocks all the staples of contemporary men’s urban style:- APC, Carhart, POLO Sport and Folk. Snap up everything from clothes to iPad cases, baseball caps and beanies. They carry a great range of trainers too including Adidas Primeknit, AMI, Reeboks and Converse. Number 63 has a more avant garde edge promoting designers from all over the world - Edwin, Junya Watanabe, Comme Des Garçons, Billionaire Boys Club and Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy. Get your jeans here.

PHOTO D.R.

62 and 63, rue du Pas-Saint-Georges, 33000 Bordeaux

A. Coppola. PHOTO STEPHANE LIGEOIX

A. Coppola

Mint Bazaar

Put together a look which perfectly balances preppy and ‘street’ at this mens’ boutique. The ﬁrst thing to catch your eye when you walk in is a rack of brightly coloured chinos, next, the playfully displayed accessories - Cowboysbags, Happy Socks, Cheche Misha scarves and Briston watches. There’s easy-to-wear Scotch and Soda, and statement pieces like the printed shirts by Ganesh to help you stand out from the crowd. A strong selection of trainers and shoes.

Another concept store: translation for those of us not au fait with the term: a treasure-trove of all things beautiful and bijoux. This emporium rocks a sensuous, everso feminine vibe. Dive in and discover a deluge of new ideas for your wardrobe and your home. Crockery, scatter cushions, pineapple lamps, candlesticks, glitterballs, clothes galore, and more. Perfect for gifts.

67, rue du Pas-Saint-Georges, 33000 Bordeaux

48, rue du Pas-Saint-Georges, 33000 Bordeaux

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Belle Campagne. PHOTO LUDOVIC BUCQUET

—— FOOD ——

Hottest Tables CLARE O’HAGAN

There’s a new breed of chef in town. Intrigued by the city’s regeneration and new cosmopolitan vibe the recent arrivals are ﬁrm adherents to the ‘locavore’ philosophy in which only fresh, locally-sourced ingredients make the grade ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Domaine de Raba Housed in the guest-house of a chateau built by 19th century architect Victor Louis, Domaine de Raba is an oasis in the busy and built-up suburb of Talence. The pavilion is set amidst 2 hectares of beautifully maintained park land, perfect for a post-prandial stroll. A Bordeaux establishment since 1949, the restaurant has recently been steered in a new direction by a young local chef, Younnesse Bouakkaoui. He embraces non-traditional ideas, such as brunch, whipping up a smorgasboard of offerings from ﬂaky viennoiserie to quiches, savoury cakes and colourful salads. 35, rue Rémi-Belleau, Talence, 05 57 26 58 28 Younesse Bouakkaoui. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

PHOTO LUDOVIC BUCQUET

Belle Campagne Menus here detail the provenance of all the ingredients used, with a promise that nothing is sourced from more than 250km away. The menus replicate with the rhythms of the countryside, and are changed every 2 months. In early summer, expect rainbow trout with sauce vierge, tail of beef braised in red wine or slow-grilled Cestas suckling-lamb. Vegetables are treated with respect, white asparagus from The Landes transformed into a light but creamy velouté. The decor at Belle Campagne is ﬂea-market chic. Sunday brunch is a ﬁrm local favourite, and we love the tapas served at the bar a standing ovation for the chips cooked in duck fat. 15, rue des Bahutiers, 05 56 81 16 51

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PHOTO MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK

PHOTO D.R.

Les Cadets

Symbiose

Belle’s Campagne’s cheeky younger brother, Les Cadets is a bar-bistrot on the quays in hip St. Michel. Go for the honest, well-executed regional cooking, and stay for a game of Petanque! The bar has it’s own boulodrome and in the evening drinkers queue up to play. The laid-back vibe here appeals to young Bordelais and tourists alike, the terrace overflowing onto the street in warm weather. The bar serves cocktails and stocks a selection of armagnacs. If you want to snack, order some of the excellent artisanal charcuterie.

A few footsteps from the Museum of Contemporary Art (CAPC), this intimate bar-bistrot serves classic French dishes embellished with an Asian edge - a touch of star anise in the broth, or a dash of black sesame on the purée. Chef Felix Clerc loves finding new ways to pack a subtle gastronomic punch, and since Symbiose is a cocktail bar by night, he lets mixology inform the cuisine; here the liqueurs are often infused into sauces and stocks.

12, quai de la Monnaie, 09 51 45 78 01

4, quai des Chartrons, 05 56 23 67 15

PHOTO D.R.

Le Taquin A stone’s throw from the celebrated Capucins Market, Le Taquin is a card-carrying ‘locavore’ establishment. The paired-down menu offers 2 starters, mains and desserts each day, which sounds simple enough. But ‘taquiner’ means to tease and chef Hadrian Lavaud does just that. Using south-west French cuisine as a base, he plays with Italian, Spanish and even British ingredients and flavours. Beef Wellington comes with sauce Perigueux, a rich, pungent reduction of white wine and black truffles, and confit of apples is partnered with an orange-flower panna cotta. 1, quai Sainte-Croix, 05 56 78 97 10

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PHOTOS D.R.

Racines

Lured by Bordeaux’s abundance of high quality local produce, Scottish chef Daniel Gallagher has put down roots (racines in French) here. After foraging the markets each morning for inspiration, he chalks up the day’s menu of two starters, two main courses and two desserts. Gallagher trained under top French chefs including Alain Ducasse and it shows. His

presentation is exquisitely colourful, and his harmonising of deep, earthy ﬂavours with fresh, crisp ones, pitch-perfect. Racines has a strong reputation among locals for being good value, so booking is a must. 59, rue Georges-Bonnac, 05 56 98 43 08

Mampuku

9, rue Ausone, 05 56 81 18 75

PHOTO D.R.

Israeli chef Gil Elad and Frenchman Arnaud Lahaut helped launch one of Bordeaux’s gastronomic stars, Miles. 2016 saw the opening of their reﬁned street-food restaurant, Mampuku, meaning ‘full belly’ in Japanese. Take a whistlestop tour of Asia and the Middle East, from Japan to Lebanon, via Vietnam, Tahiti and Israel. Signature dishes include crunchy chicken marinaded in ginger-sakégarlic-soy and Bao - steamed brioche stuffed with slow-cooked beef served with lemon and peanuts. Desserts are equally exotic, try the fried pineapple with peanut ice-cream.

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Nicolas Masse at La Grandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Vigne. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

Ronan Kervarrec at the Hostellerie de Plaisance. PHOTO STEPHANE KLEIN

Gordon Ramsay and Gilad Peled at the Pressoir d'argent. PHOTO D.R.

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Pierre Gagnaire and Jean-Denis Le Bras at La Grande Maison. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

THE FOUR MICHELIN TWO STARS IN THE AREA

—— TOUCHES OF GENIUS ——

The Michelin Galaxy SUZANNE NELSON

In February 2017, the Michelin guide announced a new line up of culinary stars in the region already famous for its farm-to-table cuisine and foodie lifestyle O NE

B ORDEAUX ' S has been the arrival of top chefs in the region. In February, Michelin made its annual announcement with a line-up that highlights the excellence of established chefs as well as newcomers. Four restaurants were awarded two stars: Le Pressoir d'Argent-Gordon Ramsay, La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez, Hostellerie de Plaisance and La Grand'Vigne. Whether you prefer dining in the city or visiting the picturesque wine country, or escaping to the stunning Arcachon Bay, the region offers tempting restaurants, ﬁne wines and excellent service. OF THE MOST EXCITING ASPECTS OF

CULTURAL RENAISSANCE

In the city There are two options with superb views of Bordeaux. Chef Nicolas Magie at Le Saint James, the gourmet restaurant in the Hotel Saint James in Bouliac, is a champion of local producers. You'll find elegant and savoury interpretations of local specialities like foie gras extra Landais, grilled over the fire and served with smoked eel, stuffed morilles, and green peppers, or pigeon from Mme Leguen, or duck from Mr Duplantier prepared two ways, a thigh confit 'pot au feu' and a filet with bitter orange.

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In nearby Lormont, chef Vivien Durand at Le Prince Noir offers three prix fixe dinner menus (82€ - 102€) as well as a prix fixe menu at lunch (35€) that changes every Wednesday, incorporating seasonal products. Come for dishes like grilled leeks with haddock and black radish vinaigrette or cod with swiss chard and baby garlic. In the city centre, Le Pavillon des Boulevards, recently changed hands, with Chefs Thomas Morel and Thibaut Berton now in charge. The lunch menu (35€) might start with butternut squash, quail egg, parmesan and crisp veggies, followed by a filet of red mullet with spelt, white asparagus, and garlic. The tasting menu is 90€. Vivien Durand, the cooker rocker at Le Prince Noir. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

At Le Pressoir d'Argent-Gordon Ramsay, Chef Gilad Peled has taken farm to table cuisine to new heights, making the most off Aquitaine's rich locally sourced products like foie gras, Perigord truffles, Aquitaine caviar, fish and seafood, lamb and beef, and of course an impressive wine list reflecting Bordeaux's vineyards. Service is impeccable, and the team is youthful and serious.

At the beach At Le Skiff Club, Chef Stéphane Carrade brings his ﬂavourful, inventive cuisine to the restaurant in the Hotel Haaitza, the new Philippe Starck designed hotel in Pyla-Sur-Mer. Nearby in Arcachon, Chef Thierry Renou at Le Patio in Arcachon serves a menu at 46€ that might offer fresh oysters from Olivier Laban and cod served with roast asparagus and langoustines. Tasting menus from 72€ to 110€.

In wine country

Alexandre Baumard at the Logis de la Cadène. PHOTO FREDERIC GUY

Nicolas Magie at the Saint James. PHOTO CLAUDE PETIT

In the medieval village of Saint Emilion, three restaurants boast Michelin stars. Chef Ronan Kervarrec at the Hostellerie de Plaisance, owned by Gerard and Chantal Perse, of Chateau Pavie, offers some of the finest, most creative cuisine in the southwest. At the recently renovated Logis de la Cadène, Chef Alexandre Baumard offers a daily market menu at 32€ and as well as tasting menus (55€ to 80€) where you'll find specialities like Pyrenean lamb and wild hake. Chef David Charrier at Les Belles Perdrix de Troplong-Mondot at Château Troplong-Mondot serves prix fixe menus (60€ to 150€) with a superb view of the vineyards. Further afield, the Auberge Saint-Jean with Chef Thomas L'Hérisson in Saint Jean de Blaignac offers a quiet respite along the Dordogne river. And golf enthusiasts, shouldn't miss Château des Vigier and its restaurant Les Fresques with Chef Didier Casaguana. In the Graves and Sauternes region, Claude Darroze in Langon is a veritable institution, with three menus (48€ - 98€) and bistro menu at 32€. Expect fresh, delicate scallops, lobster, sea bass as well as pigeon, veal, duck and foie gras. And Chef Nicolas Masse at La Grand'Vigne, at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte's hotel and spa Les Sources de Caudalie, will delight you with starters like Aquitaine Caviar with langoustine tartare, cucumber and ginger or Loupiac snails with wild asapargus gnocchis and green peas. A main dish could be wild turbot with Jerusalem artichoke, bone barrow and autumn truffle, or Pigeon from Miss Le Guen with stuffed poivrade artichoke and cardamom jus. Prix fix menus from 95€ to 170€.

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Stars Address Book 1 Star

Le Skiff Club – Chef Stéphane Carrade Hotel Haaitza, 1, avenue Louis-Gaume, 33260 Pyla Sur Mer, www.haaitza.com, 05 56 22 06 06

Jean-Denis Le Bras, between Bernard Magrez and Pierre Gagnaire. PHOTO GEORGES GOBET AFP

Le Patio – Chef Thierry Renou 10, boulevard de la Plage, 33120 Arcachon, www.lepatio-thierryrenou.com, 05 56 83 02 72

A chat with... Jean-Denis Le Bras, La Grande Maison Chef Jean-Denis Le Bras earned two Michelin stars for his imaginative and excellent cuisine at La Grande Maison, a boutique hotel in a restored historic mansion. You’ve had a very successful career. What was your biggest challenge at La Grande Maison? JD Le Bras: The challenge for me was to get the Bordelais to love this place. My goal is to make my restaurant for every day. Do you have any signature dishes? JD Le Bras: All of the dishes are signature dishes. What I like to do, for example, is use all the parts of the veal and play with the texture and taste. For shellfish, we'll use many types of shellfish. We might use the different parts of a particular fish. The goal is to have it match together – the taste, the texture, the presentation. Or we might, for example, use both white and green asparagus in the same dish. What do you like about being a chef in Bordeaux? JD Le Bras: In Bordeaux, what is interesting is that the suppliers are small producers. They aren't big, industrial suppliers – sometimes you don't always know where the product is from. Here, the truffle guy takes the truffles straight from the earth in the Charentes, and he brings me a big bag of truffles every two days. I know where they are from and I get to pick the size and shape. Here I can get my poultry from the Médoc, the lamb from Pauillac, the organic vegetables in the Landes, the local shellfish is very interesting… We have an organic vegetable garden at Chateau Pape Clement and I go to the Capucins farmers market three times a week. Other small suppliers they bring it right to you in your kitchen.

Le Saint-James – Chef Nicolas Magie 3, place CamilleHosteins, 33270 Bouliac, www.saintjames-bouliac.com, 05 57 97 06 00

Le Prince Noir – Vivien Durand 26, rue Raymond-Lis, 33310 Lormont, www.leprincenoirrestaurant.fr, 05 56 06 12 52

Auberge Saint-Jean – Chef Thomas L'Hérisson 8, rue du Pont, 33420 Saint-Jean-de-Blaignac, www.aubergesaintjean. com, 05 57 74 95 50

Les Fresques – Chef Didier Casaguana Château des Vigiers, 24240 Monestier, www.vigiers.com, 05 53 61 50 00

Claude Darroze 95, cours Général Leclerc, 33210 Langon, www.darroze.com, 05 56 63 00 48

Logis de la Cadène – Chef Alexandre Baumard 3, place du Marché-au-Bois,

33330 Saint-Émilion, www.logisdelacadene. com, 05 57 24 71 40

Les Belles Perdrix de Troplong-Mondot – Chef David Charrier Lieu-dit Troplong-Mondot, 33330 Saint-Emilion, www.chateau-troplongmondot.com, 05 57 55 32 05

Le Pavillon des Boulevards – Chef Thomas Morel 120, rue de la Croix-deSeguey, 33000 Bordeaux, www.lepavillondesboulevards.fr, 05 56 81 51 02

2 Stars

La Grand'Vigne – Chef Nicolas Masse Chemin de SmithHaut-Laﬁtte, 3365 Martillac, www.sourcescaudalie.com, 05 57 83 83 83

Hostellerie de

Plaisance – Chef Ronan Kervarrec 5, place du Clocher, 33330 Saint-Émilion, www.hostelleriede plaisance.com, 05 57 55 07 55

Le Pressoir d'Argent – Gordon Ramsay – Chef Gilad Peled 5, cours de l'Intendance, 33000 Bordeaux, www.bordeaux.intercontinental.com, 05 57 30 43 04

La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez – Chef Jean-Denis Le Bras 10, rue Labottière, 33000 Bordeaux, www.lagrandemaisonbordeaux.com, 05 35 38 16 16

Menus at 165€ to 205€; lunch menu at 65€ - 125€

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Cooking workshop at the Bordeaux River Suite. PHOTO TAYLOR YANDELL

—— GOOD TO LEARN ——

Chefs open up their kitchens to us SUZANNE NELSON

A unique gourmet experience for keen cooks in Europe's cosmopolitan wine country: farm-to-table cuisine, cooking classes, wine and food pairings A MAJOR PART OF THE BORDEAUX REGION'S CULTURAL RENAISSANCE over the last two decades has been the trend towards farm-to-table cuisine and the art of food and wine pairings. This foodie revolution has attracted many talented chefs, many of whom offer visitors cooking classes. Wine pairings not to be missed! Whether you're a passionate amateur cook or culinary neophyte, there's a cooking course for you. You'll ﬁnd classes focused on wine and food pairing, others on culinary techniques and local produce. Chateaux, hotels and restaurants offer memorable experiences under the guidance of expert chefs. Here are a few highlights:

Château Kirwan Château Kirwan is a classiﬁed growth in Margaux, one of the great historic estates. The estate is one of the leaders in wine tourism, and offers cooking classes with the personable chef Stephanie Bottreau, owner of Cook N'Tinem. The course includes a wine tasting over lunch and tour of the beautiful estate. Costs for 2-4 people, €127/person; 5+ people, €112/person. 33460 Cantenac, 05 57 88 71 00 mail@chateau-kirwan.com www.chateau-kirwan.com

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classes a week, with bespoke classes available on request. The themed classes change frequently, so check their online schedule. Prices range from 45 €/person for a relaxing Friday evening of canapés and wine to a 155 €/person 'Comme au Saint James' on Saturday morning. 3, place Camille-Hostein, 33270 Bouliac, 05 56 20 92 58 www.saintjames-bouliac.com

Château Dauzac Chatau Dauzac has won awards for its upscale and convivial tourism activities around wine and food, including learning how to blend wine, harvest honey and pair Wagyu beef with aged Dauzac wines. Set in a splendid park, Dauzac organizes cooking classes with their chef in the chateau or in the 'Panoramic' room. Open Monday to Saturday, 10 AM to 6PM, May to October. Contact them for details. 33460 Labarde, 05 57 88 98 51 www.chateaudauzac.com Cooking workshop at Château Phélan Ségur. PHOTO D.R.

Bordeaux River Suite

Chateau Phélan Ségur offers cooking courses with Chef Jimmy Delage. They school you in the great classics of gourmet French cuisine. The proprietors of Phélan Ségur also own Michelin starred restaurants, and Delage has regularly trained with Michelin starred chefs. The cooking course lasts two hours, and is accompanied by a visit of the winery and a tasting of three vintages, followed by a champagne aperitif. The lunch, prepared in the cooking course, is served with two vintages from among the estate's wines. Costs 200 €/person.

Sylvie Cazes, the owner of Le Chapon Fin, the iconic restaurant next to Grands Hommes in Bordeaux's famed 'triangle' of luxury boutiques, offers cooking classes with Chef Nicolas Nguyen Van Hai and other chefs at Bordeaux River Suite, with a panoramic view of the quays and river. As with the company's bespoke wine tours, the cooking courses can be adapted to clients' requests. For guests staying in the twobedroom luxury ﬂat, a cooking course with a local chef costs 148 €/person, based on 4 people. A gastronomic cooking course with Chef Nguyen Van Hai runs to 216 €/person, based on 4 people. For cooking courses only, without accommodation, contact Bordeaux Saveurs.

33180 Saint-Estephe, 05 56 59 74 00 www.phelansegur.com

17, allées de Tourny, 05 56 90 91 92 www.bordeauxsaveurs.com

Hôtel Château Cordeillan-Bages

Workshop Côté Cour at the hôtel Saint James. PHOTO JÉRÔME MONDIÈRE

Château Phélan Ségur

The new chef at the luxury hotel Cordeillan-Bages, Julien Lefebvre, offers cooking courses for 1 – 4 participants in the kitchen at Cordeillan-Bages. Lefebvre focuses on seasonal produce as well as à la carte themes. The course includes three recipes and lasts 2.5 hours. A tasting follows the cooking session. Wine and food pairing courses are also. available. The price is 80€ per person and with wine pairing 120€ per person. From 3:30 -6 PM, Wednesday thru Sunday, based on availability. By reservation only. www.cordeillanbages.com

Hôtel Saint James The Relais & Chateaux Hotel Saint James, with its stunning view of Bordeaux from its perch in Bouilac, offers cooking classes with sous chef Celia Girard, who works under Michelin starred chef Nicolas Magie. The culinary program offers seven

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—— RISING STAR ——

Bordeaux

loves design... SUZANNE NELSON

Chaban-Delmas bridge. PHOTO GUILLAUME BONNAUD

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...Design

loves Bordeaux SUZANNE NELSON

Bordeaux, city of heritage, is also a city of design. From the new Cité du Vin to the Pont Chaban Delmas to the quays on the Right Bank leading to Stalingrad, Bordeaux is a city undergoing a metamorphosis... a little further out, construction of the Arch of the MECA signals the birth of the future Euratlantique neighbourhood. Bordeaux, as always, is looking for a subtle balance between city and nature. This year sees the opening on June 25 of ‘Paysages’, a cultural program dedicated to the arts, and of course, there’s the biennial Agora, a celebration of architecture and urban planning, from September 15 - 25

‘Paysages’: thought in motion This year, Bordeaux offers ‘Paysages’, from June 25 to October 25, an unprecedented cultural program in design, architecture and urbanism, with a multi-disciplinary approach that includes theatre, visual arts, photography, literature and debate. Bordeaux's cultural history shows a deep appreciation for the importance of its landscape, public spaces and architecture. Today it is a city in motion, proud of its history but resolutely contemporary, with an intuitive understanding of how design and landscape are integral to its destiny. 2017 marks a particularly momentous occasion for the city: on July 2, the superfast LGV train line opens between Paris and Bordeaux, reducing the travel time to 2h04. In honour of this occasion, Bordeaux is hosting an unprecedented cultural program called Paysages - or landscapes. It can be agreed... that nothing is more appropriate than this cultural season, dedicated to the arrival of the high speed train,‘ said Alain Juppé, mayor of Bordeaux. There will be over a hundred events, with many events having

several venues and dates, for a remarkable and dynamic cultural season. Artists are drawn from Bordeaux, and from across France and the international field. It's impossible to list all of the events, but here are a couple of examples. José-Manual Gonçalvès, head of Parisian art centre Centquatre, offers an exciting digital project at the newly renovated Gare St-Jean that aims to establish a powerful dialogue with the landscape. Gonçalvès will place anthropomorphic sculptures ‘in places generally reserved, not for sculpture, but for people.‘ The idea, explained Gonçalvès, is to return to 'Leonardo da Vinci's idea according to which man is at the same time the central element and the measure of the landscape.' Choreographer and dancer Hamid Ben Mahi brings Get Up, Get Up, eight days of an itinerant 'village', investing public spaces with a wide range of urban dances, performances, workshops, balls - simultaneously thoughtful and spontaneous, according to Ben Mahi. ‘To land in unexpected locations and gather every moment, every place, is to see the city differently, as an ensemble of landscapes in motion,‘ said Ben Mahi.

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‘Lastly, quite

simply, Agora is the illustration of Bordeaux's urban plan for the last twenty years‘ Michèle Laruë-Charlus, general director of Agora and executive director of urban planning in Bordeaux. PHOTO D.R.

Paysages

Four months of cultural dialogue between arts with 'Paysages' event. PHOTO ANAKA

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1 -Lucas Belvaux at the Utopia Cinema. PHOTO RODOLPHE ESCHER

Agora

2 - Model of the Agora exhibition in Hangar 14. PHOTO D.R.

3 -The architect Bas Smets, commissioner of Agora 2017. PHOTO BART DEWAELE

4 -The ‘Spaghetti Bench‘ by Pablo Reinoso. PHOTO PABLO REINOSO

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7th edition of Agora : world of architecture meets in Bordeaux The city's cultural program ‘Paysages’ echoes the program developed by the 7th edition of Agora, the biennial celebrating architecture, u rba nis m a nd de s ign ta king pl ace fr om September 15-25. AGORA was first launched in 2004 reflect on the profound changes in Bordeaux since 1995. Agora has three objectives. First, to weigh in on the national and European debate on the future of cities. Second, to put out a call for ideas that allows the city to assist the political decisionmaking process. 'Lastly, quite simply, Agora is the illustration of Bordeaux's urban plan for the last twenty years,' said Michèle Laruë-Charlus, general director of Agora and executive director of urban planning in Bordeaux.

'In less than a quarter of a century, the physiognomy of Bordeaux has profoundly evolved... where nature is meant to be present,' said Juppé. 'Entrusted to renowned designers, the vegetation on the Left Bank, the curtain of greenery formed by the Botanical Gardens and Angéliques park on the Right Bank are testimony to this.' Since its inception, Agora has gained in international popularity, attracting international participants and an inter-generational audience, including families with children. Its approach to urban planning and architecture, and questions facing urbanism today, involves theatre, visual arts, photography, literature, and debate. 'I always insist on the fact that the landscape is not only 'natural' but also aural, olfactory, interior, figurative, reinvented...,' said Bas Smets, the Brussels-based architect and landscape engineer and commissioner for the 2017 edition of Agora.

The main venue is Hangar 14 in the centre of Bordeaux, but there are events and exhibitions throughout the city. The worksites of urban projects under construction will be open to the public. There will also be a selection of interesting events exploring urban gardening: seed exchange, collective gardens, a vertical chicken house, a vegetable garden on the Place de la Bourse, and a project on the quays involving 2,000 tomato plants. International partnerships this year, are with Georgia and Bogota in Colombia. Agora awards five prizes: in the categories of architecture, design, ideas, associations, and video. Contact the Bordeaux Tourist Office for events during your stay or go to www.agorabordeaux.fr

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The south of the city will change soon with the MECA and the bridge designed by Rem Koolhaas. PHOTO BIG - REICHEN ET ROBERT ASSOCIEÄ&#x;S / REM KOOLHAAS

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Design

The Cité Frugès by Le Corbusier. PHOTO ERIC DESPUJOLS

Design as part of Bordeaux's permanent, evolving landscape These major new architectural landmarks reveal the city commitment to design: Euratlantique, La MECA, the Rem Koolhaas bridge, the Cité Frugès and the Saint James hotel. Construction is underway on MECA, the future centre for visual arts, performing arts, literature and ﬁlm. Designed by Danish architects Big and French studio Freaks freearchitects, the rectangular building will have a hollow in the middle, creating a giant stage open to the waterfront. It's being built out of limestone, in keeping with the city's historic buildings. Located on the Paludate quay, a few paces from Gare St. Jean, it is at the heart of the new Euratlantique district. Bordeaux's Euratlantique is a massive urban planning project that is transforming the southeastern tip of the city. The key projects include the new business district Bordeaux St. Jean Belcier, designed around the renovated train station and a complete rehabilitation of the waterfront, the new district on the opposite side of the river ‘Garonne Eiffel‘, and a new 80-hectare district Bègles Garonne along the waterfront with the future Jean-Jacques Bosc bridge. The project includes thousands of square metres of ofﬁce and retail shop space, hotels, housing

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The contemporary lounge at the Saint James. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

for students, the elderly and artists and 50 hectares of green space. The future Jean-Jacques Bosc bridge, designed by Rem Koolhaas and his agency OMA, will open in 2018. A minimalist platform 44 metres wide and 549 metres long will traverse the river, with the goal of rethinking how we use bridges, linking the urban landscape on the Left Bank and a meadow on the Right Bank. It will slope slightly, allowing for boat traffic underneath, but will still be flat enough to double as a space dedicated to public events. There will be space for different modes of traffic – cars, tram, bikes, but the widest 'lane' will be for pedestrians. The Cité Frugès was designed by French-Swiss architect Le Corbusier. Completed in 1925, the idea was to build lowcost housing for workers in a sugar factory in Pessac, a sub-

urb of Bordeaux. The bold Modernist style shocked many at the time, and it fell into disuse. The town of Pessac led a revival of interest in Cité Frugès, leading to its gradual rehabilitation. Today it's an appealing example of Le Corbusier's five points of architecture. It was classified a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2016. The Hotel Saint James is a luxury hotel and restaurant located in Bouliac, a village on the Right Bank of the Garonne river. Designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, the hotel opened in 1989 in the middle of a vineyard and offers a panoramic view of Bordeaux. It's become a landmark for design with Nouvel's reinterpretation of the tobacco sheds of the region. Nouvel also designed friendly, functional furniture for the hotel, including a desk, chair, ottoman, and ‘very high‘ beds made from beechwood.

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—— AQUITAINE MUSEUM ——

Bordeaux’s Golden Age SUZANNE NELSON 1 QUENTIN SALINIER

Bordeaux's Aquitaine Museum charts the remarkable cultural narrative of the region from prehistory through the mid-20th century, with recently renovated exhibits exploring Bordeaux as a gateway to the world from the Revolution through of Atlantic commerce

THE AQUITAINE MUSEUM

TRACES A JOURNEY

FROM PRE-HISTORY TO THE CITY’S GOLDEN ERA OF MERCANTILE SPLENDOUR. The later rooms, covering the period from 1800 to 1939, have been recently renovated with paintings, sculptures, drawings, everyday objects, posters, period ﬁlms, videos and sound effects, which explain the city's relationship with the world during this period. This permanent exhibit is divided into three sections: A port under transformation; A world maritime horizon; and An expanding city. Before embarking on this fabulous journey, it's best to set the stage with a pause in a small room dedicated to the turmoil of the French Revolution and the fate of the Girondins. This room acts as a transition from the thought-provoking exhibit on

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‘La Garonne’, an allegory of the river by D. Félix Maggesi, 1851.

'Le France', a merchant ship built around 1840, deposit of the great seaport of Bordeaux.

Sculpted elephants tusks, Equatorial Africa.

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A unique and varied collection.

the city's role in the triangular trade and slavery to how the city then reopened relations with the rest of the world after the wars of the Revolution and Empire. A port under transformation Beginning in the 1820s, Bordeaux's port experienced an economic boom and major works of urban development were undertaken. River traffic increased significantly and the 'Port de la Lune' became a major hub. 'We have paintings that represent this period,' explains Aquitaine Museum curator Franรงois Hubert. 'For instance, you see the quays aren't yet built.' One such painting, 'The port of Bordeaux' by JeanJacques Alban de Lesgallery is just one of the magnificent pain-tings depicting this period. Hubert indicates a painting from 1868, 'What's interesting is that we still have the flat-bottomed gabarres and sailboats, but we see the first steam-ships that start to navigate on the river,' he says.

A world maritime horizon Transatlantic ocean liners, merchant vessels sailing the globe, Bordeaux's port was a vital link to countries around the world, rivalling the influence of Paris, Lyon, Nantes, Le Havre and Marseille. In another painting, 'we see all of the different types of boats and ships built in Bordeaux, the port was a real shipyard for private shippers,' says Hubert. 'It was industrial.' Bordeaux's shippers were active in the Far East, Cochinchina, New Caledonia, the French West Indies, and the Pacific. Many lucrative products passed through Bordeaux. The French West Indies produced 15% of Europe's sugar in the 1830s, not to mention the rum trade. And fishermen here unloaded the cod from Newfoundland and Iceland, leading to the construction of the cod-drying plants... Cereals arrived from Argentina... At the same time, between 1865 and 1920, 371,000 migrants departed from Bordeaux in search of a better life. 'In the region, there was the grave

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The Curator of Aquitaine Museum François Hubert before the reconstruction of grocery store in the 1930’s.

crisis of phylloxera and many people immigrated,' explains Hubert. 'Mainly to America and South America.' An expanding city The dynamic economy created by the port led to major urban improvements, including wide avenues and the city ring road. Classical ideals were reflected in the city's grand architecture, with Eclecticism and Art Nouveau enriching the cityscape later on. Society reflected the port’s wealth and diversity, from street hawkers and tradesmen to the private clubs of the bourgeoisie. Stone masonry, woodworking, ironworking and stained glass flourished.Leave time to visit the rest of the museum. It takes visitors on a remarkable journey, passing through Gallo-Roman times, the Middle Ages and a thought-provoking exhibit on the city’s role in the triangular trade and slavery. From prehistory, an unknown artist gave us the stunningly simple and elegant Venus de Laussel, a 25,000-year-old bas-relief

depicting a pregnant woman; the Romans left us a bronze statue of Hercules and the Middle Ages bequeathed superb stone figures of medieval warrior knights. The museum hosts an exquisite 1/36th scale model of the Conquerant, a magnificent three-masted warship the French used in their war against the English, later captured by Admiral Nelson's fleet.

Aquitaine Museum

20, cours Pasteur, 33 (0)5 56 01 51 00 www.musee-aquitaine-bordeaux.com Open every day from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Closed Mondays and Bank Holidays Tram line B, stop Musée d’Aquitaine

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—— RARE & PRECIOUS ——

Small and beautiful...

museums SUZANNE NELSON

A cornucopia of cultural treasures with an impressive collection of ﬁne, contemporary and decorative artworks, as well as history and archeology, reﬂecting the wealth of this small European city. These two museums are within walking distance of one another, and are easily visited for a memorable hour or two. They prove, once again, that extraordinary things often come in small doses

ACCESS TO THE PERMANENT COLLECTIONS IS BORDEAUX METROPOLE CITY PASS. THE

THE

‘Houselife’ which introduced contemporary items in the Madd’s collection. PHOTO PATRICK FAIGENBAUM

FREE WITH PASS ALSO

INCLUDES PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION AND GUIDED TOURS. WWW.BORDEAUX-TOURISM.CO.UK

Musée des Beaux-arts The recently renovated Musée des Beaux Arts boasts a worldclass collection that includes masterpieces by Delacroix, Rodin, Bonheur, Corot, Matisse, Rubens and Bordeaux artists Odilon Redon, Albert Marquet and André Lhote. Children and adults alike will be mesmerised by the immense, dramatic paintings like Benjamin Constant’s Moroccan Prisoners, Alfred Smith’s ‘The Embankment of Bordeaux’, Rosa Bonheur’s ‘Treading the Wheat in Camargue’, Eugene Delacroix’s ‘Greece on the ruins of Messolonghi’, and Theodore Gudin’s ‘The Act of Heroism by Captain Desse, from Bordeaux, towards the dutch ship Columbus’. 20, cours d’Albret, 05 56 10 20 56 www.musba-bordeaux.fr Open every day from 11 am to 6 pm Closed Tuesday and Bank Holidays.

MADD - Musée des Arts Décoratifs et du Design The Museum of Decorative Arts & Design is housed in Hotel de Lalande, a re-markable example of how the Bordeaux aristocracy lived during the period of the Ancien Régime. The collection is rich and varied, including furniture, ceramics,

Embarkation of the duchess of Angoulême in Pauillac by Antoine-Jean Gros in Museum of Fine Arts. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

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‘Fire of the steamer Austria’ by Eugene Isabey. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

glass, silver, musical instruments, miniatures, table settings, giving a faithful and inspiring presentation of French decorative arts at the time of the French Revolution. 39, rue Bouffard, 05 56 10 14 00, www.bordeaux.fr/p63910/musee-des-arts-decoratifs Open every day from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm Closed Tuesdays and Bank Holidays Tickets €3 - €5, free entrance for young people under 18 years old, pass holders, handicapped visitors, and for everyone ﬁrst Sunday of the month.

Musée de la Création Franche This unique museum has given itself the mission of supporting living artists working outside the mainstream. The art is called art brut or outsider art. The museum is located in a leafy park in Bègles, not far from the ring road or ‘boulevard’ that delineates the city of Bordeaux. 58, avenue Maréchal-de-Lattre-de-Tassigny, 33130 Bègles, 05 56 85 81 73, www.musee-creationfranche.com Open March through October 3 to 7 pm, November through February 2 to 6 pm Free entrance.

Musée des Douanes The Musée des Douanes is like a grand cabinet of curiosities set in the magniﬁcent, arched hall of the original customs building built between 1735 and 1738 for the General Farm, the customs system used prior to the French Revolution. It showcases thousands of objects, including opium pipes, a real stuffed lion, historical uniforms and weapons, tools and models, the brigades’ registers recounting their investigations, as well as lovely works of art - a painting by Claude Monet ‘Cabane des Douaniers’ and a drawing by Salvador Dali. The archives date back to 1603 storing ofﬁcial proclamations by the King of France. 1, quai de la Douane, + 33 (0) 5 56 48 82 82, www.musee-douanes.fr Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm.

Museum of free creation Bègles. PHOTO D.R.

Tickets €1.50 to €3; under 18s free; free to everyone the ﬁrst Sunday of the month.

CAPC - Musée d’Art Contemporain de Bordeaux The museum of contemporary art was created in a colonial warehouse forty years ago to showcase the work of emerging artists with a permanent collection with 1,300 works by 190 artists, including Robert Combas, Annette Messager, Mario Merz and Richard Long. 7, rue Ferrère, 05 56 00 81 50, www.capc-bordeaux.fr Open Tuesday, Thursday to Sunday 11:00 am to 6:00 pm, Wednesdays 11:00 - 8:00 pm. Closed Monday and Bank Holidays Tickets €2 - €6.50, free entrance with Bordeaux Metropole City pass and every ﬁrst Sunday of the month (except in July and August), free entrance for young people under 18 years old.

Centre Jean-Moulin This museum is devoted to the Second World War and has an interesting and sometimes poignant display of objects from the French resistance and Allied Forces. There is also an extensive collection of archival documents open to students, researchers and historians. Place Jean-Moulin, 05 56 10 19 90 Open Tuesday to Sunday 2pm to 6 pm, closed Monday and Bank Holidays Free entrance.

Musée d’Ethnographie The museum has a collection of 6,000 objects from around the world, mainly Asia and from the 19th Century. Most of the collection comes from the old Trocadero Museum in Paris. Many of the objects were gathered by French explorers and colonists. Université de Bordeaux, Bâtiments E, 3 ter, place de la Victoire, 05 57 57 31 61, Open Monday to Thursday from 2 pm to 6 pm, Friday 10 am to noon Free entrance.

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—— ON THE WATERFRONT ——

A river runs through it ASTRID DUPONT-FAUVILLE INFOGRAPHIE SUD OUEST

The long-abandonned Garonne is now the focus of attention in Bordeaux. Locals ﬂock to the river for popular summer events, Bordeaux fête le Vin and Bordeaux fête le Fleuve, and under the hot sun, children can be seen cavorting in the Mirror d'Eau which ﬂanks the river. The river shuttle, CityBat 3 is the perfect way in which to take in Bordeaux's spectacular city-scape - at a remove, on the water! Luxury cruises will always make time for passengers to discover the vineyards, islands, small harbours and monuments along the Garonne like the Verrou Vauban fort at Blaye. All the above, and much more can be found on this map, along with crucial information about where to stop for lunch on both sides of the river between Quinsac and Pauillac!

BORD

EAUX

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BORD

EAUX

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BORDEAUX - The Quai des Chartrons. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

NANTES - The Carroussel des mondes marins. PHOTO JEAN-DOMINIQUE BILLAUD

BILBAO - Azkuna Zentroa. PHOTO MITXI

—— SEA-FARERS ALL ——

Bordeaux, Nantes and Bilbao

The 3 Atlantic sisters CLARE O’HAGAN

Nantes, Bordeaux, Bilbao have always faced outwards, towards the rough, unpredictable waters of the Atlantic. They all prospered thanks to lucky geography, enjoying proximity to the ocean, and positions on tidal rivers ﬂowing to the heart of the country; rivers that were these cities’ lifeblood for centuries THESE THREE CITIES have always faced outwards, towards the rough, unpredictable waters of the Atlantic. Today, they are united not only by their glorious sea-faring pasts, but by their transitions into architectural and cultural beacons, capable of luring visitors in their thousands. Nantes, Bordeaux, Bilbao. Three cities, just a few hundred kilometers apart, but united by the Atlantic Ocean, and by their positions on tidal rivers flowing to the heart of the country; rivers that were these cities’ lifeblood for centuries. Their common traits have elicited many a comparison, about their heritage and the dynamic way in which they have evolved over the last two decades. At the turn of the Millennium, they kept pace with the new zeitgeist, reinventing their city centers, creating new tourist hubs and providing world-renowned architects with the chance to realise their most ambitious ideas. Through these urban renewal projects, the three cities have brilliantly exploited their rich maritime and mercantile heritage. Each city attracts visitors in its own inimitable way, offering a wealth of experiences to suit all tastes, budgets and genera-

tions. Montesquieu theorised that the temperate climate, such as the one found on France and Spain’s Atlantic coast gives rise to people of intelligence and good sense! Over the centuries, Nantes, Bilbao and Bordeaux each enjoyed considerable power and influence in Atlantic trade. Bilbao served as the gateway for all exports from across the ocean. And by the 18th Century, Bordeaux and Nantes competed vigorously for supremacy as France’s premier port. Both of them took part in the triangular trade but Bordeaux took the upper hand in the shipping of goods during the latter half of the 1700s. The well-known historian, *Paul Butel, once likened the Moon-shaped harbor of Bordeaux to the gracious bend of the Ria river in Bilbao, a similarity which echoed the two cities’ dominance in the sphere of Atlantic trade. Today, these three Atlantic sisters are engaged in a conversation exploring the dynamics of urban change, and how best to allow the visitor to immerse himself in the past. *Paul Butel, Histoire de Bordeaux, Privat nouv. éd. 1990.

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The Nantes Art Museum will reopen in june 2017. ESQUISSE STANTON-WILLIAMS

Nantes NANTES

HAS DONE A REMARKABLE JOB OF CONVERTING

ITS INDUSTRIAL SPACES INTO CATHEDRALS OF CULTURE .

Quays which once resounded with the hustle and bustle of maritime trade, and later ship-building, now ring with the sounds of live music, street-performance and cafĂŠ culture. The city has invested big money in resurrecting its architectural heritage. Visit the Isle de Feydeau to admire immaculately-restored 18th century hotels particuliers. These were the sumptuous homes of merchants who grew rich on the proceeds of Atlantic trade in wool, textiles, and sugar. Nantes prospered again, turning to manufacturing industry and ship-building. Over the last decade, architects from all over Europe have been commissioned to breathe new life into the old wharves. Modern buildings referencing the maritime and manufacturing past have sprung up, notably The School of Architecture and the Manny Build-

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Town houses on Ile Feydeau. PHOTO JEAN-DOMINIQUE BILLAUD

The machines of the Isle, parc des chantiers. PHOTO FRANCK TOMBS

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Stairs in Ile Feydeau. PHOTO ANTOINE GUILHEM DUCLÉON

Hotels

La Pérouse

Newly-refurbished Four Star listed Design Hotel modelled on a ship. 3, allée Duquesne, 02 40 89 75 00

Radisson Blu Luxury in the old law courts. 6, place AristideBriand, 02 72 00 10 00

Sozo Hip hotel in a former Chapel.

16, rue Frédéric-Calliaud, 02 51 82 44 00

Restaurants

Atlantide 1874 Maison Gueho, 5 rue de L’Hermitage, 02 40 73 23 23

Le Poisson Paré 12, quai de la Fosse, 02 40 35 42 05

La Cigale 4, place Graslin, 02 51 84 94 94

Town houses in Nantes. PHOTO AMBROISE TÉZENAS

Don’t Miss!

ing, both completed in 2009. This June, British architect Stanton Willliams’ €48.8 million transformation of the 19th Century Musee de Beaux Arts will throw open its doors. With over 1000 hectares of green spaces, and miles of cycle paths, Nantes deserves is reputation as a lifestyle destination. It has also successfully branded itself as an art hub. Estuaire is an open-air museum on the Loire estuary displaying 30 contemporary international art installations, including a 120-metre long snake and a sinking house. Explore the exhibits on foot, by bike or by boat. Kids will love the 12-metre high mechanical elephant at the Machine de L’ile, built on the old ship-yards, where surrealist artworks are inspired by Nantes-native son Jules Vernes’, ‘Invented Worlds’.

Le Voyage à Nantes Set in motion every summer, The Voyage à Nantes (VAN) is a 12km trail - an actual green line drawn on the ground which snakes across the city, allowing you to discover its most beautiful views, as well as its artistic, architectural, historic and cultural treasures. www.levoyageanantes.fr

La Folle Journée Equally unmissable is the ‘Mad Day’ or La Folle Journée, a festival dedicated to leading lights in contemporary classical. In late January and early February 2018, the festival’s theme will be Exile. www.follejournee.fr

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Set on the dune facing the ocean, come and enjoy one of the most beautiful terrace of Europe (nominated for Awards of Prix Villégiature 2015)

In your bedroom as well as in the restaurant, let yourself rock by le Grand Bleu

2, avenue de la plage 40600 PLAGE 05 58 82 74 00 contact@legrandhoteldelaplage.fr Le grand hôtel de la plage

Succumb to the oceanic view of the Grand Atlantic Hôtel and let yourself seduce by the panoramic view offered by the rooftop ! 14-16, avenue de la République 33120 ARCACHON 05 24 04 60 30

contact@grandatlantichotel.fr

Bilbao IN

1980S BILBAO WAS SUFFERING FROM POST-INDUSwhen the Basque authorities gambled on an ambitious urban renewal programme transforming the city’s economy almost over-night. First, they commissioned worldclass architects to deliver major infrastructural projects. Norman Foster for the new metro, and Spanish-Swiss architect, engineer and artist Santiago Calatrava for the Zubizuri Bridge. Then, they hit the jackpot in 1997, when the Solomon Guggenheim Foundation brought in Californian architect Frank Gehry, who bequeathed his iconic art museum. The Guggenheim celebrates its 10 year anniversary this year. THE

TRIAL MALAISE,

Located on the Nervión River, the curved titanium building might reference a ship in motion, appropriate in a city built on sea-faring. The Guggenheim is one of the biggest touristmagnets in the world, attracting over a million visitors a year. The millions it generated in taxes in the early years were ploughed into hotels and restaurants, and Today Bilbao has a ﬂourishing foodie scene with several Michelin-starred restaurants and a culinary movement, the New Basque Cuisine. Bilbao is still evolving architecturally, with exciting new offerings springing up all the time. In 2010 Phillipe Starck breathed new life into an early 20th Century warehouse, the Alhóndiga, now a huge cultural space housing a cinema and transparent swimming pool.

Hotels

Gran Hotel Domine

5* luxury in the shadow of the Guggenheim. Mazarredo Zumarkalea, 61, 09 44 25 33 00

Hotel Miro

4 * Boutique Hotel. Alameda Mazarredo, 77, 09 46 61 18 80

Hotel Lopez de Haro

Kistch Old-World Charm. Obispo Orueta 2, 09 44 23 55 00

Restaurants

Mina

Muelle Marzana, 09 44 79 59 38

The Guggenheim Bilbao Museum. PHOTO MITXI

Victor Montes

Plaza Nueva, 8, 09 44 15 70 67

Zortziko

Alameda de Mazarredo 17, 09 44 23 97 43

Zubizuri Bridge. PHOTO D.R.

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Inside the Opéra National of Bordeaux designed by Victor Louis in 1773. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID The Grand Théâtre. PHOTO LAURENT THEILLET

Bordeaux BORDEAUX BOASTS EVEN MORE IMPECCABLY-PRESERVED 18TH AND 19TH CENTURY BUILDINGS THAN ITS ATLANTIC SISTER, NANTES. Its elegant squares and avenues were also ﬁnanced by the triangular trade between Europe, Africa and the Caribbean. In the second half of the 19th Century, Bordeaux entered a new phase in maritime trade. Sea clippers built here journeyed to new colonies and trading territories in South America, sub-Saharan Africa, and parts of the Far East. Over a century later, Bordeaux is still re-inventing itself economically and culturally, and becoming even more outward looking. Whether you’re perusing the eclectic menu at one of its neo-bistrots or discovering the history of world wines at the Cité du Vin, you’re know you’re in a city which celebrates the global. In the past, the three Atlantic Sisters exploited international trading networks and adapted to the ﬁckle economic zeitgeist. Today they have been reborn in the popular imagination as dynamic cultural centres whose cityscapes are an alluring mix of old-world grandiosity and the shock of the new.

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—— GRAVES-SAUTERNES ——

The Golden Girl CAROLINE MATTHEWS

The well known wine maker of Bordeaux's number one château is at home in the southern Gironde A LOVE OF WINE CAME LATE TO S ANDRINE G ARBAY. D ESPITE BEING B ORDELAISE , HER DECISION TO STUDY ŒNOLOGY IN HER HOME TOWN was driven by a keen interest in science and, before she joined famed Château d’Yquem in 1994, she was more at home in a laboratory than a winery. During her time as cellar master of this acclaimed Premier Cru estate, she has witnessed a change in ownership, great vintages such as 2001, 2009 and 2011 and the opening of the château to visitors. She lives near Langon in the southern Gironde. There are a number of female winemakers in Sauternes. Do you think there is an advantage to being a woman when making sweet wine? It is true that there are a few of us making wine in this area. Sigalas Rabaud, Climens and Suduiraut all have women in this role but I do not believe that it is necessarily easier for me to make Sauternes just because I am female. There was a lot of media attention around my appointment as it seemed at odds with the traditional image of the château but for Alexandre de Lur-Saluces it was a natural choice, maybe given the role that his ancestor Françoise-Josephine played in the success of the estate.

‘Sigalas Rabaud, Climens and

Suduiraut all have women in this role but I do not believe that it is necessarily easier for me to make Sauternes just because I am female.‘

Sandrine Garbay. PHOTO GERARD UFERAS

You worked with him for 10 years during which time LVMH purchased the château. How did that change affect your role? The Lur-Saluces family had owned Yquem for almost 300 years so it was normal for the staff to share Alexandre’s regret that the château had been sold. However, it was testament to the

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Château Yquem. PHOTO GÉRARD UFÉRAS

Cha Ġteau Malromé. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

regard with which LVMH held the winemaking team that, following the acquisition, everyone remained. The transition was helped by the fact that Alexandre stayed in his post for another five years before Pierre Lurton arrived. There was a difference in that both had totally opposite management styles, but this did not impact on my work in the cellar. What do you enjoy most about your job? Although it can be a time of great stress, I really enjoy the autumn period and the creation of a new vintage. Of course there are difficult years such as 2012 when we had to decide to forgo making Yquem due to insufficient quality, but overall the atmosphere and enthusiasm of the harvest is the highlight of the year. Tasting older vintages is also a memorable moment, the most emotional being a small sip of the 1806 with its coffee, dried fruit and spice flavours! Perhaps less well known than the vineyards of the Médoc and Saint-Emilion, the Sauternais are often an afterthought for visitors to the region. What is there to attract them to the area? There are already a number of châteaux in the appellation which have invested in wine tourism and along with our neighbor Château Guiraud, we are open for visits by appointment 7 days a week. It is also possible to wander the grounds of Château d’Yquem and visit our boutique without prior arrangement.

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A room at Hôtel Restaurant Darroze. PHOTO CLAUDE PRIGENT

Bazas Cathedral. PHOTO SYLVIE MELLIES

On the path cross in Verdelais. PHOTO THIERRY DAVID

‘The landscape around that bend in the river is particularly beautiful and one of my favorite spots from which to admire it is Verdelais on the right bank.‘ The nearby village of Sauternes is a convenient place for lunch and the informal Auberge des Vignes offers great value. There are rumors too of plans in the near future to open a hotel in the village and a restaurant in a classiﬁed growth château. Heading towards the river, the town of Langon with its Michelin-starred restaurant Claude Darroze is another attractive option for lunch and I would recommend their 3-course Bistronomique menu sitting on the tree-lined terrace. The landscape around that bend in the river is particularly beautiful and one of my favorite spots from which to admire it is Verdelais on the right bank. Formerly a stopping point for pilgrims en route to northern Spain, it offers stunning views of the Garonne valley. There is a great sense of tranquility too in the old cemetery in the village where the post-impressionist painter Toulouse-Lautrec is buried. His old family home where he died, Château Malromé is a few kilometers away and also open to visitors. Closer to the river, the medieval town of St-Macaire with its narrow streets and well-preserved houses is also worth a trip. Further south in the Gironde, Bazas and its 14th-century cathedral is a draw for many visitors, some who travel to the town by bike, along the cycle path joining the region to the Arca-

chon Bay. Travelling in the direction of the coast, the 80km path crosses a section of the vast Landes pine forest, passing the lakes of Hostens, before arriving at the port of Biganos. Another way of discovering the Landes is via the river Ciron, accessible by canoe or kayak from Bommes but for those who are less sporty, there is the option of a horseback ride through the woods and vineyards, with an all-important sweet wine tasting at the end.

L’Auberge des Vignes

23, rue Principale, Sauternes, 05 56 76 60 06

Hôtel Restaurant Claude Darroze

95, cours du Général-Leclerc, Langon, 05 56 63 00 48

Château Malromé

Saint-André-du-Bois, 05 56 76 25 42

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History-Lover's Heaven 4 Châteaux in the region CLARE O’HAGAN

Château de Cazeneuve, 33730, Préchac

Château de Roquetaillade, 33210, Mazères

If you were for seduced by the film, La Reine Margot, then you must visit the residence of the Kings of Navarre. The first of his dynasty to be crowned King of France, Henri IV (1553-1610) resided here with his estranged wife Queen Marguerite of Valois. Margot, a pivotal figure in the French Wars of religion, allegedly frequented the grottoes in the gorge beneath the castle for assignations with lovers. The Chateau de Cazeneuve was rebuilt in the 14th Century, and then again in 17th but retains its orignal moat, and crenellated walls. Book the wine-paring lunch in advance, the cellar is well-stocked with wines from the neighbouring Sauternes.

Since pre-historic times humans have sought the protection of cliffs and caves when on the move and in hiding from their enemies. En route to the Pyrenees, Charlemagne carved the first fortifications here out of the rock in the 10th Century. The second castle, in mint condition today dates from the early 14th Century. Large windows replaced arrow slits in the 17th Century, illuminating new decorative details, such as the magnificent renaissance chimney places. Roquetaillade was sumptously refurbished again in 1810 by Eugene Viollet le Duc, a celebrated architect of the time.

Château de Cadillac des Ducs D’Epernon, 33410, Cadillac-sur-Garonne

Château la Brède, La Brède, 33650

In 1581, the town of Epernon was sold by Henry III of France to Jean-Louis de Nogaret de la Valllette, one of his intimate friends, who he created the Duke of Epernon. De Nogaret built his grandiose chateau here in the 17th Century, and spared no expense in ﬁtting it out. The Cadillac tapestries so are exceptional, some now hang in The Louvre. In the 19th Century, the chateau became a womens’ prison. There is an excellent museum chronicling not only the residency of the dukes, but also the lives of the prisoners.

This impressive Gothic Castle built in the early C14th with a moat on all sides, has been modiﬁed many times. But two rooms are untouched - the library and bedroom of the eminent French lawyer-philosopher known as Montesquieu. Charles Louis de Secondat, Baron de La Brède et de Montesquieu, lived here for most of his life from 1689-1755. During the Enlightenment he pioneered many of the ideas central to modern democracy, such as the separation of powers. He’s said to have had more inﬂuence than anyone on the Founding Fathers while they deliberated over the Constitution.

Cazeneuve Castel. PHOTO PATRICK MIRAMONT

Wine road at the Roquetaillade Villandraut Castel. PHOTO PHILIPPE LABEGUERIE

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Hôtel Ha(a)ïtza. PHOTO NICOLAS ANETSON

—— BASSIN D’ARCACHON——

Summer Paradises SUZANNE NELSON

With the opening of two Philippe Starck designed hotels La Co(o)rniche and Ha(a)ïtza in the upscale beach community of Pyla-sur-Mer, visitors can now take advantage of this exceptional location on the Bassin d'Arcachon Co(o)rniche’s swimming pool. PHOTO FRANCK PERROGNON

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Sunset at La Co(o)rniche. PHOTO FRANCK PERROGNON

LA CO(O)RNICHE AND HOTEL HA(A)ÏTZA ARE TWO PHILIPPE STARCK DESIGNED RENOVATIONS OF HISTORIC HOTELS, run by co-owners Sophie and William Téchoueyres, bringing glamour to this stunning location on the Bassin d'Arcachon. ‘The most impressive place, the most beautiful, the most poetic, the most surreal, the strongest forces of nature; it is one of the most beautiful places in the world,’ says Starck. In 2016, local entrepreneurs Sophie and William Téchoueyres unveiled Hotel Ha(a)ïtza, a renovation of the historic landmark hotel built in 1930 by Louis Gaume, their second hotel in Pyla-sur-Mer. Gaume was a local developer, largely responsible for establishing Pyla-sur-Mer and imposing the characteristic neo-Basque architecture on the villas his ﬁrm built. When the Téchoueyres took over the hotels, they teamed up with internationally renowned designer Philippe Starck.

Integral to the project was the Téchoueyres' commitment to reviving the village atmosphere of yesteryear, with a café, a bakery and tea room, and the hotels, of course. 'These buildings are part of the collective memory of this place,' explains Sophie, who grew up a short walk away. Her husband William grew up across the bay in Cap Ferret, and became a French rugby player, playing for division one at Bègles. Hotel Ha(a)ïtza builds on the success the trio enjoyed with the nearby Hotel-Restaurant La Co(o)rniche, built by Gaume in 1933. La Co(o)rniche is famous for its stunning location on the Dune of Pilat. As soon as Starck heard the historic Gaume hotel was under renovation, he came to visit, meeting William for the ﬁrst time. The two men hit it off and Starck, who has a home on the Bassin d'Arcachon, was immediately drawn to the challenge of creating a hotel worthy of the location he loves. 'This is one of the most beautiful places that I’ve ever seen!' says Starck.

Hôtel Ha(a)ïtza’s kitchens. PHOTO NICOLAS ANETSON

Restaurant Le Skiff. PHOTO D.R.

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Stéphane Carrade at the Skiff. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

A chef’s masterpiece! PHOTO NICOLAS ANETSON

La Co(o)rniche embraces the view from its outdoor bar, restaurant and pool as well as from the rooms, suites and cabins. The location is truly remarkable. The Dune de Pilat is the largest sand dune in Europe, offering a panoramic view of the bay, ocean and The Landes Pine Forest. It's 105 metres high and 2700 metres long — 60 million cubic metres of sand! While the hotel and restaurant have undergone a complete facelift, Starck and the Téchoueyres were careful to keep the connections to the past like the old tamarind tree in the garden. The original staircase is lit by a Murano lamp. The goal was not to transform the place but to awaken a sleeping beauty, explains Sophie. At the much bigger Hotel Ha(a)ïtza, one of the challenges was to make sure it didn't feel like it was playing second ﬁddle to La Co(o)rniche. The trio gave Hotel Ha(a)ïtza its own identity, still friendly, relaxed and sophisticated, but more of a year around hotel-spa. For instance, the swimming pool at Hotel Ha(a)ïtza has a retractable glass roof. Retro-style bikes can be borrowed for cycling on the path leading to Le Moulleau, the beach or Arcachon. There's a Parisian hair salon, sophisticated spa treatments, a stylish Cake Shop and Tea Room, a gourmet restaurant Le Skiff, bar and lounge, and a range of comfortable rooms, all designed by Philippe Starck. At Le Skiff, chef Stéphane Carrade has brought his trademark creativity to the menu, making the most of local seafood and the farm-to-table cuisine renowned in the region. Dinner at Le Skiff Club might start with a Medallion of Spiny Lobster with sea urchin, a tiny Kekette chicken egg poached in black pudding consommé or an inverted rossini of seared foie gras, paper-thin slices of raw beef, capers and chicons with Argan oil and a Perigueux sauce. Mains include Roasted Pigeon with rum, coconut milk potato Mousseline, carrots, blood orange, Salmis sauce and ‘la Cuite’ sirop.

A Hotel Ha(a)ïtza suite. PHOTO NICOLAS ANETSON

Hôtel Ha(a)ïtza

1, avenue Louis-Gaume, 3315 Pyla-sur-Mer, www.haaitza.com, 05 56 22 06 06 Rooms: €195- €545, suites: €435 to €785, two-bedroom apartment: €995- €1595

La Co(o)rniche

46, Avenue Louis-Gaume, 3315 Pyla-sur-Mer www.lacoorniche-pyla.com, 05 56 22 72 11 Rooms: €275 to €965, suites: €450 to €935, cabins: €395 to €995

It's a summer paradise.

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PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

—— FAVOURITE SPOTS——

A day and a night with Sophie Téchoueyres SUZANNE NELSON

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Sophie Téchoueyres, co-owner of La Co(o)orniche and Ha(a)ïtza, grew up on the Arcachon Bay. We asked her to divulge some of her favourite spots on the bassin

Canoeing on the Leyre river The Arcachon Bay is full of natural wonders, but few people know about the Leyre river delta. 'It's so heavenly that you forget everything else,' says Sophie. The Leyre starts in the pine forests of National Park of the Moors of Gascony and stretches more than 100 kilometres until it reaches Arcachon Bay. The delta comprises 30 square kilometres of wetlands, and includes the ornithological park in Le Teich. Rent a canoe or join a small river boat tour. www.canoesurlaleyre.com, 06 72 76 34 58

The Cabane d’Hortense. PHOTO D.R.

Eating caviar

PHOTO D.R.

The Esturgeonnière is one of the pioneers in France's caviar trade, having invested in Siberian sturgeons twenty years ago. Sophie is champion of the local caviar, serving it in her restaurants. Visitors will learn how the sturgeon (Acipenser Baeri) are raised for the production of Aquitaine caviar. Visitors can watch a video on methods for extracting the eggs. The visit is followed by a tasting of their Perlita caviar. Cost: 28 € / person (12 max.) - Lasts 1 1/2 hours. The shop sells caviar. Caviar L’Esturgeonnière Route de Mios Balanos, 33470 Le Teich, 05 56 22 69 50

Enjoying oysters

PHOTO D.R.

Run by the same owners as Chez Hortense, a popular restaurant in Cap Ferret, this oyster shack on the beach has a superb view of the bay and the dune. The owners have farmed oysters for four generations, they serve their own oysters, pâté, bulots and shrimp with mayonnaise, and rosé and white wines by the glass. A glass of white or rosé wine, fresh oysters on the half shell from the park, small plates with pâté (6 - 8 €), bulots or shrimp and mayonnaise (8 €), oysters N°3 range in price by season from 6 for 10 € to 12 for 18 € La Cabane d'Hortense - Les Youkas Rue de Tamaris, 33970 Lège Cap Ferret, www.lacabanedhortense, 05 56 03 26 74 Open from April 1 from 11h30 to until late evening.

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The Bal à Papa. PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Partying with friends

Boating on Arcachon Bay 'It's wonderful to visit the Banc d'Arguin, the Ile aux Oiseaux, (bird island) and to sleep on a boat moored at the Banc d'Arguin,' says Sophie. Picnics on the Banc d'Arguin, touring the bay to see the Ile aux Oiseaux the 'cabanes tchanquées and the oyster farms in Cap Ferret. There are many boat rental agencies. The tides and shoals make navigation tricky, so consider a skipper. Sophie recommends Arcachon Equipage. Arcachon Equipages 6, rue de Joigny, 33120 Arcachon www.arcachonequipages.com, 09 62 58 86 96 et 06 80 25 72 38

Paragliding Over the Dune of Pyla

Bal à Papa - Les Goëlands 242, boulevard de l'Océan, 33115 Pyla sur Mer www.lebalapapa.fr

PHOTO QUENTIN SALINIER

Every beach town needs a fun bar, and in this quiet corner of Pyla sur Mer, the Bal à Papa is a the place for dancing, drinking and listening to 80s hits and French oldies. Locals say it's like no other bar they know. 'It's super kitsch,' says Sophie. 'It's for all ages, everyone has fun, everyone dances. Even Parisiens who think they've seen everything, have never seen this.' Don't be confused - it's sometimes called Les Goëlands or Chez Zézette, and it's run by Christophe Faucampre and Sabrina Sutel.

The Dune of Pyla is Europe's largest dune. It sits magnificently at the mouth of the Arcachon Bay, between the Atlantic ocean and the vast expanse of the Landes pine forests. It's wonderful to climb the dune, accessing it from the steps on the forest side and descending the other side to the beach far below, enjoying this incredible landscape — but there's nothing like soaring off the dune for a calm, peaceful flight or a more exhilarating option with 'manoeuvres'. The Waggas School has offered paragliding for over a decade. Suitable for anyone age of 5 to 99 years. Discovery flight costs 50 € for 10 minutes. Sensation flight costs 60 € for 10 minutes or 100 € for 20 minutes; three ½ day courses costs 330 €. Waggas School Pyla Camping, Route de Biscarrose, 33115 Pyla Sur Mer www.waggaschool.com, 06 32 04 32 07

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—— LASCAUX ——

The Pre-History’s

Cistine Chapel CLARE O’HAGAN

Lascaux, the site one of the most critical archaeological discoveries of the 20th Century has long been the world’s top pre-historic tourist attraction. Since its recent €58 millions makeover, it now offers an even more mind-blowing journey into pre-history

The impressive black cow: a 2,15 meters fresco. PHOTO DAN COURTICE

JARRING WITH THE BUCOLIC SCENERY OF THE PERIGORD NOIR, all rolling hills and limestone villages, an immense, futuristic glass and striated-concrete structure has appeared in the Vezere Valley. Opened in December 2016 by Francois Hollande, this awe-inspiring 8500 square-metre visitor centre took specialist builders and craftsmen years to complete. It is designed to offer an immersive experience of pre-historic cave art, and, just for a few hours, to close the anthropological gap between us and our forebears, who hunted Bison Antiquus here when temperatures were a little chillier.

and an impressive replica built in 1983, Lascaux II, which was a hit for decades, but is a little too close to the real Lascaux for comfort.

In the early Autumn of 1940, a local teenager, Marcel Ravidat discovered the entrance to a deep cave while walking his dog, Robot. A few days later, he returned with some friends. These young lads were the ﬁrst to lay eyes on over 2000 paintings of bulls, bison, horses, stags, birds and humans etched onto the cave’s walls in red, yellow and black pigments. The discovery represented a giant leap for stone age studies.

The new ‘facsimile’ cave is a far more exact replica than its predecessor. Digital photography, laser imaging and 3D printing help lend as much authenticity to the reproduction paintings and engravings as possible.

But, when armies of visitors began to troop through the cave, a fungus appeared, causing damage to the precious 17,000 year old art-work. The cave was closed to the public in 1962,

The recently opened Centre International d'Art Pariétal, dubbed ‘Lascaux IV’, uses technology to take us on a multisensory journey into the Upper Paleolithic period. Each visitor is given a tablet to guide them through a series of interactive exhibits, ﬁlms and workshops, unlocking the mysteries of both the ancient art, and the daily lives of the artists who created it.

The sounds, temperature and smell of the original cave have been conjured up, allowing us to contemplate the paintings as Cro-Magnon man would have done, illuminated by ﬂickering candle-light. Lascaux is a passion project; a brilliant meditation, not only on the history of mankind, but on the history and role of great art.

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Inside the new museum Lascaux IV. PHOTOS DAN COURTICE

—— NEAR LASCAUX ——

Our Picks in the Perigord Noir CLARE O’HAGAN

Maison d’hôtes Belle Estiu Just 12km from Lascaux, this lovingly converted 18th Century Farmhouse is all antique mirrors and washed-linen-charm. Le Méjat, 24590 Saint-Geniès, 06 50 69 44 04

La Villa romaine Swim in the inﬁnity pool after a day’s sight-seeing at this beautiful limestone hotel on the banks of the Dordogne. 24200 Carsac-Aillac, 05 53 28 52 07

Le Moulin de Mayence This guest-house in a 17th Century Water Mill with a pool and boules pitch is the perfect place to unwind. Lieu dit Mayence, 24580 Plazac, 05 53 51 18 81

Château Castelnaud

PHOTO RABOUAN

This corner of The Dordogne provides an embarrassment of riches for tourists. Home to many treasures of medieval history and pre-history, it’s also a geologer’s paradise

Where to stay

This 13th Century castle built on a high outcrop of rock faces its old rival, the Château de Beynac across a deep valley. During the 100 Years War it backed the English Plantagenets against the French Kings. Now restored, it houses a museum of medieval warfare, with full-scale catapults and trebuchets for the kids to clamber on. 24250 Castelnaud-la-Chapelle

La Roque Saint-Christophe Humans have built their homes inside this kilometre-long cliff for millennia. The porous rock, many natural caves and its proximity to the river made it the perfect place for a settlement. It is now a museum show-casing how pre-historic, then medieval man lived, worked, fought and even worshipped here in buildings carved into the rock. 24620 Peyzac-Le-Moustier

Grotte de Proumeyssac For centuries, locals were terrified of this pit, which they called the ‘Devil’s Hole’ because it regularly emitted steam. In 1907 the first person to descend into the chasm discovered the magnificent display of stalactites and stalagmites, which are now spectacularly illuminated for visitors. 24260 Audrix

Where to eat

Le 1862 Home-grown vegetables and local produits de terroir. Hotel Les Glycines, 4, avenue de Laugerie, 24620 Les Eyzies-de Tayac, 05 53 06 97 07

L’Imaginaire Stunning 17th Century limestone dining hall, Michelin-recommended. 24120 Terrasson-Lavilledieu, 05 53 51 37 27

Le Vieux Moulin Well-executed traditional fare, picturesque setting by the old mill. 2, rue du Moulin-Bas, 24620 Les Eyzies-de-Tayac, 05 53 06 94 33

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Sarlat. PHOTO JONATHAN BARBOT

—— TOP TIPS ——

Unmissable Nouvelle-Aquitaine CLARE O’HAGAN

Bordeaux is perfectly positioned to explore France’s beautiful South West. Hop on a train at the Gare St. Jean, or hit the autoroute to discover the Basque Corniche, Limousin and the Charentes

La Rochelle’s Old Port

Sarlat

An important harbour from the 12th Century onwards, the Old Port is exquisitely preserved. Climb up the leaning tower of St. Nicholas for breath-taking views, and put yourself in the shoes of competitors in the World Cliff Diving Championships, often held here. Once you’ve taken in the sweep of La Rochelle’s maritime history, enjoy a seafood lunch on a restaurant terrace, then head over to the new town’s Les Minimes, the largest pleasure boat marina in Europe.

This market town, just north of the Dordogne River is a gem of French medieval and renaissance architecture. Sarlat boasts the highest density of historic and classified monuments in France. A political and judicial centre in the 15th and 16th centuries, Sarlat’s influence and trade decreased sharply in the 19th Century, isolating it from industrialisation, the reason so many of its sandstone buildings are so well-preserved. Sample the Perigord Noir’s famous walnuts, foie gras and truffles, at the Marché aux Truffes every Saturday morning.

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Collonges-la-Rouge. PHOTO HERVÉ LE NAIN

Surf world championships in Biarritz. PHOTO ANTOINE JUSTES

Collonges-La-Rouge, Corrèze Is this the most beautiful village in France? Many would say so. Built entirely out of red sand-stone, and surrounded by fortified walls which encircle the hamlet of stunning turreted houses, it attracts 700,000 visitors a year. CollongesLa-Rouge dates from the 8th Century, and originally grew wealthy thanks to a priory founded by local monks which attracted peasants, craftsmen and tradesmen. It proﬁted by sheltering pilgrims bound for Compostella.

Biarritz This city’s rugged natural beauty has always charmed, but it began to enjoy cult status as a playground of the rich and famous in 1854 when the Empress Eugénie built her Belle

Futuroscope in Poitiers. PHOTO D.R.

Epoque beach palace, the Hotel du Palais. By the 1930s European royalty and the Hollywood elite were flocking to Biarritz for nights in its glamorous casinos and days on its breath-taking beaches. The first place in Europe where surfing caught on, Biarritz now hosts an annual surf festival in July. This May, the World Surfing Games will be held here.

Futuroscope A family theme park 10km north of Poitiers, Futuroscope is one of a kind. It uses multi-media, 3D and 4D cinema, audio-visual techniques and interactive rides to send the visitor on journeys into the future, then back into pre-history. There’s low-tech fun to be had too involving water games, boats and cannons for younger children.

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Marais Poitevin Dubbed The Green Venice, the wet zone of the marsh of is a network of tiny islands criss-crossed by natural water channels and man-made canals covered in bright green duckweed. Just perfect for a spot of boating! Let time stand still as you idle down-stream in a traditional barque, a type of punt, for hire at the piers. These wetlands are a bird lover’s paradise, it’s hard to miss herons and king-ﬁshers hunting for lunch.

Cognac

Marais Poitevin. PHOTO XAVIER LEOTY

Home to the world’s best-loved brandy, Cognac is a picturesque medieval town straddling the banks of the River Charente. The old town’s architectural heritage is well worth exploring, particularly the Château des Valois, parts of which date back to the 10th Century. Create your own blend of Cognac, do some tasting, and witness the traditional art of the double distilling process on a tour of globally-renowned ‘maisons de Cognac’ right on the river front, including Hennessy, Martell and Remy Martin.

Fêtes de Bayonne France’s largest festival takes place at the end of July or early August and attracts more than a million red and white-clad revellers who converge on the city’s streets for 5 days and nights of music, performance art, traditional dance, ﬁreworks and of course, drinking. Modelled on the Fiesta of Pamplona in Spain, the controversial ‘running of the bulls’ is one of the festival’s big draws. In Bayonne, young cows are used in place of the traditional bulls, but don’t be fooled, their horns are pretty sharp!

The Dune de Pyla The biggest sand dune in Europe is just 60km from Bordeaux. This epic mound of sand has to be seen to be believed. As a courtesy to the 1 million visitors who come each year, steps have been built into the dune to enable even the very young and the very old reach the summit. The views are well-worth the climb, only from the top can the dune’s great length of 2.7km be appreciated.

The Dune de Pyla. PHOTO D.R.

Fêtes de Bayonne. PHOTO DANIEL VELEZ AFP

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—— LGV OCÉANE ——

Coming soon to station near you CLARE O’HAGAN

PHOTO EMMANUEL GRIMAULT

Two hours and four minutes ﬂat. As of July 2nd 2017 that’s the time it’ll take to be transported from the urban frenzy of Paris to the sun-drenched squares of Bordeaux

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THE FORTHCOMING LGV OCÉANE TRAVELLING AT UP TO 320KM PER HOUR will not only shave an hour and 10 minutes’ from the current journey time, but will make passengers’ overall experience more palatable. In ﬁrst class, new ergonomic seats will lie more than 10 degrees ﬂatter than those in the old trains. The seats are upholstered in pure wool and soft leather, and have in-built adjustable lumber supports.

33 round trips a day will be scheduled on the new train, carrying 35,000 passengers. Bordeaux will inevitably mushroom, as Parisiens increasingly decide that a 4-hour round trip to the Big Smoke for work is a reasonable daily commute in exchange for living so close to the Bassin d’Arcachon.

Once you’re well-rested you can get down to some serious work. The seats re-create a miniature ofﬁce space in which your every need has been anticipated. Juice-up your phone or tablet at your personal usb charging point, and hang your jacket in a pushbutton cupboard just above you with no fear of wrinkles!

This line, along with 2 other lines to Toulouse and Bilbao will mean the southwest is alot less isolated from the rest of France, and that Spain is alot closer. About a third of all regional journeys within France will be shortened by 2019; quite an impressive stat!

When it comes to Wiﬁ access, SNCF is proud to announce it has surmounted the technological obstacles to providing unlimited connectivity on a train travelling at over 300km/hr. Delivering this service was no mean feat. SNCF worked with all the telecommunications service providers along the line, and with the telecoms regulator to enhance existing networks between Paris and Lyon. In the buffet car, designer Iona Vautrin’s pillar-box red table lamps are vibrant and playful. The rest of the space is bright and

Bordeaux’s mid 19th-century station, the gare St. Jean is undergoing an enormous overhaul in order to accommodate these new lines. The renovation will spur a grand-scale regeneration of the surrounding areas, Bègles, Belcier and Floirac. Watch this space – all are poised to become chic residential and business neighbourhoods over the next few years. A new bridge over the Garonne will be completed in 2018 paving the way for three new lines of transport, linking the station quartier to the rest of the city.

Lampe bar. PHOTO D.R.

Seats in ﬁrst class. PHOTO D.R.

Confort in ﬁrst class. PHOTO D.R.

The bar in the LGV Océane. PHOTO D.R.

airy, with curving lines and a pleasing use of wood.

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—— GOOD TO KNOW ——

Best guides CLARE O’HAGAN

Mollat bookshop. PHOTO D.R.

T HERE ARE MYRIAD WAYS TO EXPLORE B ORDEAUX . For starters the tram and the River shuttle – the Bat 3 are cheap, convenient options. And in addition to bikes for hire all over the city, there are plenty of novelty options such as segways, mobilboards and three-wheel electro-assisted velomobiles too! If you prefer to go it on foot, you could book a different walking tour each day of the week. Of course, there are the classic wine tours, and local history tours which allow monuments like the Place de La Bourse and the Basilica of St. Michel to illuminate the past 1000 years here. Then, there are foodie tours which kick off with a coffee and a croissant at the Capucins Market, the ‘Belly of Bordeaux’ and take in ancient cheese cellars and bakeries specialising in the canelé – a local cake originally made by nuns for children. If fashion is your passion, there are boutique tours, and for the ﬁtness fanatics there are early-morning and evening running tours which traverse the city, passing on fascinating nuggets of information on the hop!

Mollat Bookshop All the books mentioned on this page are available in France’s biggest independent bookstore. They have an ample selection of English novels too! 15, rue Vital-Carles, 33080 Bordeaux, 05 56 56 40 40 Open from Monday to Saturday, 9.30am to 7.30pm

And unmissable, the Tourist Ofﬁce of Bordeaux offers guides in chinese, japanese, korean, russian, portuguese... Ofﬁce de tourisme de Bordeaux, 12 cours du 30 juillet, 33000 Bordeaux, www.bordeaux-tourisme.com, 05 56 00 66 00, from Monday to Saturday and 9:30 am to 5:00 pm on Sunday and bank holidays

3 Up-to-the-Minute Guide Books Bordeaux Essentiel, text by Phillipe Prévot, photos by Alain Béguerie This bilingual guide is excellent on the city’s rich history. The photos of the river and iconic monuments are stunning. Great coffee table eye-candy. Bordeaux, Le Guide idéal, by Christophe Berliocchi, in collaboration with Camille Dufau This guide is written in French, but don’t let that put you off. There is more than a smattering of Franglais, and it’s crammed with witty illustrations which affectionately mock the local bohemians and hipsters. A tongue in cheek guide, crammed with upto-the- minute practical information. This A-Z of insider tips will fast become indispensable to locals too. The glossary of local terms such as Juppémania is eye-opening!

See You in Bordeaux, by Carine Arribeux In English, this just-published general travel guide is bursting with practical information on everything from kids’ activities to markets and walking tours.

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