DINING FESTIVALS
spring / summer
2018
WINE
INTRODUCTION For generations, Lake Balaton has been Hungary’s prime getaway destination – but today this is a getaway destination on the move. The beaches, the lidos, the discos, the resort hotels, the outdoor fun, the family holidays beside childfriendly waters, all these remain – but of late, Balaton has also taken a new direction. Setting a contemporary agenda are independent winemakers, inventive chefs and ambitious
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festival organisers able to attract the likes of Rag’n’Bone Man and David Guetta to these shores this summer. Hungarian artists, musicians and creatives are also setting up at bucolic hangouts here, drawn by a different lifestyle. Here at We Love Balaton, we cover all these events and trends in full, openings and happenings, as well as features, interviews and travel tips. Here’s our selection of the best things to see and do this summer – dive in and have fun!
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HUNGARY With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.
BUDAPEST Attracting a record 10 million guest stays in 2017, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Summer sees the city transformed by music festivals and alfresco events.
BALATON Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English. 4
we love balaton
Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content. Throughout 2018, look out for our 6 seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary. Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort. Distributed free nationwide!
CUSTOM PUBLISHING Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custompublished guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs. 2018 / spring — Summer
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FOLLOW US
online!
At We Love Balaton, we cover the area every day with bright, original, independent content in English. Our previews, reviews and interviews focus on every new opening and happening in Hungary’s vibrant holiday destination. Join us!
welovebalaton.hu/en 6
we love balaton
CONTENTS
CONTENTS 10 great things to do this summer.....................................................................14 North shore road trip/South shore road trip ..............................................18 10 top hotels & lodgings ...................................................................................... 22 7 exciting new places for summer ................................................................... 24 5 top spots for beach food ................................................................................. 26 10 fun festivals ........................................................................................................ 28 10 great Balaton wines ........................................................................................30 3 places for fine ice cream ...................................................................................32 3 attractions for children ......................................................................................33 3 great local markets ............................................................................................ 34 3 spots for water sports ...................................................................................... 35 10 spots at the gateway to the Balaton ......................................................... 36
BALATONFÜRED & AROUND
7 historic must-sees in the region.................................................................... 42 5 classic cultural attractions ...............................................................................44 10 top dining destinations ..................................................................................46 5 prime pâtisseries ................................................................................................48 5 spots for local wine ...........................................................................................50 Interview with winemaker Attila Jásdi ........................................................... 52 5 ideas for tours & jaunts ....................................................................................54 5 best beach spots ................................................................................................. 56 Explainer – The legend of Nemere II ............................................................... 58 7 must-sees in Veszprém ....................................................................................60
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CONTENTS
KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND
10 top cycle stops...................................................................................................66 Interview with bar owner Balázs Bánlaki ......................................................68 7 places to feel the magic of Káli-medence .................................................. 70 7 unmissable restaurants .....................................................................................72 3 top terraces .......................................................................................................... 74 3 best beaches .........................................................................................................75 5 top spots for local produce ............................................................................. 76 Explainer – Cool Káli-medence ......................................................................... 78 5 finest views of Káli-medence .........................................................................80
BADACSONY & AROUND
5 best spots atop Badacsony .............................................................................86 7 top tour routes ....................................................................................................88 Explainer – The Battle of Szigliget ...................................................................90 7 best places to eat ............................................................................................... 92 7 top terraces for wine with a view .................................................................94 Interview with winemaker Zsófi Laposa .......................................................96 3 best beach spots .................................................................................................99
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
5 finest attractions ..............................................................................................104 Interview with writer Balázs Szálinger ......................................................... 106 7 top dining destinations in the region ........................................................ 108 7 top tour destinations .......................................................................................110 Explainer – Matula bácsi’s hut ......................................................................... 112 3 majestic vantage points .................................................................................. 114 5 top beach spots ................................................................................................. 116 8
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CONTENTS
balatonboglár & AROUND
7 winning wine cellars ........................................................................................122 Explainer – The wines of Kishegy .................................................................. 124 7 cracking restaurants .........................................................................................126 Interview with restaurateur Balázs Csapody ...............................................128 5 splendid spots to see the north shore ...................................................... 130 5 top spots for real retro Balaton ....................................................................132 3 top pâtisseries in Somogy ..............................................................................134 3 fabulous beaches on the south shore ........................................................135
Siófok & AROUND
7 amazing architectural delights ....................................................................140 5 best places to eat ............................................................................................. 142 5 top pâtisseries ...................................................................................................144 Interview with confectioner Lajos Szilágyi ................................................. 146 5 great music parties for summer ................................................................. 148 3 unique experiences around Siófok ............................................................ 150 3 top beach spots .................................................................................................152 3 top tour routes ...................................................................................................153 Explainer – Siófok’s brave new world .......................................................... 154
The Visegrád Four
Bratislava .................................................................................................................158 Prague ......................................................................................................................160 Warsaw ....................................................................................................................162 The Visegrád menu ............................................................................................. 164 Beyond the capitals ............................................................................................ 166
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U s e fu l I nfor m a tion
Balaton by plane The only airport at Lake Balaton, Hévíz-Sármellék (hevizairport.com), is small, with a limited selection of flights currently connecting Hungary’s prime holiday destination with Germany. Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km from the capital, about 125km from Siófok at Balaton. There is no direct link from airport to lake by public transport. Outside adjoining Budapest terminals 2A or 2B, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to town, costing about 7,500 HUF/€24. Past the taxis, a bus stop serves two routes. The 100E (ticket 900 HUF/€2.80) runs every 30 minutes to Deák tér in town, 50min journey time. The 200E runs to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (ticket 350 HUF/€1.20, every 7min, journey time 25min). This is on blue metro line M3, currently served by replacement buses at weekends.
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U s e fu l I nfor m a tion
Balaton by train The main stations in Budapest serving Balaton are Déli and Kelenföld, one at the southern end of red metro line M2, the other green M4. Setting off from Déli and calling at Kelenföld, regular trains run by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) take 1hr 20min to Siófok (single 2,400 HUF/€7.60), nearly 2hrs to Balatonboglár (2,800 HUF/€9), and, changing at Balatonszentgyörgy, nearly 3hrs to Keszthely (3,700 HUF/€11.75). For the north shore, most journeys require a change at Székesfehérvár, although some services run direct to Balatonfüred (2hr, 2,700 HUF/€8.60), Badacsony (2hr 40min, 3,400 HUF/€10.80) and resorts. Balaton by bus Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provides direct services to destinations such as Keszthely (2hr 20min, 3,700 HUF/€11.75) from Népliget, Budapest’s main bus terminal with its own station on blue metro line M3. Balaton by car The M7 motorway links Budapest with Balaton, busy at weekends. There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (hungary-vignette.eu) or at any petrol station. Minimum validity period is ten days (3,000 HUF/€9.50). Balaton by boat Balatoni Hajózási (en.balatonihajozas.hu) serves 21 resorts with ships and ferries. The shortest journey between the south and north shores is Szántódrév to Tihanyrév, journey time 8mins, fare 700 HUF/€2.25). Also scheduled are 1hr and 2hr pleasure trips, including sunset services. Balaton by bike Balaton is perfect for cyclists, with all kinds of routes, tours and trails. For suggestions, see balatonbike.hu/en. Cycle hire is possible all round the lake, with hotels and guesthouses a likely resource. 2018 / spring — Summer
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Balaton by region Badacsony & around p78-p95
Káli-medence & around p58-p77
Keszthely & hévíz p96-p113
Balatonboglár & around p114-p131 Kis-B alato n 12
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Balatonfüred & around p36-p57
on t a l Ba
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Gateway to the Balaton p36-p37
Siófok & around p132-p151
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10 great things to do this summer Taste new-wave beach treats The holy trinity of lángos dough, hekk fish and sausages has been surpassed by creative beach food: black burgers at Kalóz, pulled carp at Paletta and Zala dishes at the Vitorlás Bisztró.
Discover a new market Markets spring to life in summer with their fresh produce and holiday bustle. Along with the stalls at Káptalantóti, you’ll find local flavours at Badacsonylábdihegy, Köveskál and Vászoly.
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Admire a panoramic view A walk in the morning or in the late afternoon is the best kind of exercise – with a sweeping view from a tower or hill at the end of it. It can even be combined with a picnic.
Cycle round the lake Balaton offers 200 kilometres of cycle routes, with quality rest stops in between. These include remote A Zöld, between Balatonalmádi and Veszprém, and Guruljon az Élet near Csopak.
Party on the water Ferry concerts are the most spectacular of the summer events set up by MOL Nagyon Balaton, and feature on-board shows by groups such as Halott Pénz and Margaret Island.
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Sip an unusual cordial Balaton has seen rapid growth in its gastro offerings – and cordial choices. From the lavender ones at Levendula Porta to detox drinks created by Csupaszörp, originality is key.
Grab yourself a bunch of lavender You’ll find lavender incense all around Lake Balaton, but the flowers you pick yourself always smell the best. Kőröshegy Lavender is worth a visit for the view alone.
Sample top local whites For the third year, BalatonBor will see some two dozen local winemakers launch their white Olaszrizling onto the market, indicated by special labels at shops and restaurants. 16
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Beat the Balaton record For the big summer swim across Balaton, anyone can give their best shot to beat the record, currently standing at 58 minutes 33 seconds for the 5.2km between Révfülöp and Balatonboglár.
See top bands and DJs From Rag’n’Bone Man at the STRAND Festival to Rita Ora at Balaton Sound, not to mention Richie Hawtin at B.My.Lake, star acts will be performing at the waterside this summer.
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North shore
VeszprĂŠmvĂślgy
road trip for a long weekend
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Saturday: You’ll need to set off in good time to first pop into Veszprém and see its Castle District. After that, you can head over to Balatonfüred where you’ll find a fine lunch at Morzsa, coffee and cake at the famous Carolina, and both classic and contemporary art in the villa-like Vaszary Gallery. In the evening, Kredenc awaits with live jazz and a glass of wine. Sunday: Rise early to reach Kalimedence, in particular the Liliomkert market at Káptalantóti, where you can start the day with strudel and homemade cheese. You can then take a relaxing tour of the region, climbing the huge stones at Szentbékkálla, visiting the meditative Pálos Monastery at Salföld, then popping into the Pajta Gallery & Restaurant for lecsó stew. You’ll even have time for a rosé ice cream at strangely named Kő fagyi?.
Monday: You can start the day splashing about at Keszthely beach before tucking into some local dödöllé stew at the Vitorlás. Those who have already seen Festetics Castle can visit the Amazon House, where the golden age of travel is on display. In the afternoon, you can head over to St George Hill and, after an early dinner, stretch out on the terrace of the Villa Kabala. 2018 / spring — Summer
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South shore
Kishegy
road trip for a long weekend
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Friday: Head off early to avoid the heavy traffic on the M7 to Siófok, where you can start your trip at Silver Beach. Sticking to a classic Balaton schedule, for lunch you can tuck into the fried treat of lángos at the Széplaki Lángos Büfé and, when the heat dies down, head to nearby Töreki to admire the lakes and flocks of birds.
Saturday: You can start things off at the Zamárdi Adventure Park where time flies by without you even noticing. Lunch can be taken at the iconic Balatonszemes restaurant of Kistücsök. You can spend the rest of the day on a sailboat, which you can rent from the BL Yacht Club at Balatonlelle. Sunset is best enjoyed on the open water.
Sunday: Starting at Balatonboglár, you can walk up to the Gömb observation globe and, after popping into the nearby bobsleigh run and adventure park, head for Kishegy. There, many wineries offer quality tipples and snacks. In the afternoon, you can seek out the secluded beaches at Balatonfenyves and Balatonmáriafürdő, before an earlyevening jaunt to Kéthely, where wine and fine fish await. 2018 / spring — Summer
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Káli Art Inn
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10 top hotels & lodgings BENCZE BIRTOK Among vineyards of Hungarian Kéknyelű grapes, István Bencze’s guesthouse is where you can cuddle up on chillier evenings alongside a glass of Bakator. 8220 Balatonalmádi, Mikszáth utca 5; benczebirtok.hu FÜGEKERT BED & WINE Breakfast spot, wine terrace and comfy lodgings, all atop Zánka. Behind it all is founder/owner Miklós Havas, bassist with well-known reggae combo Irie Maffia. Zánka, Fő utca 30. fugekert.com KÁLI ART INN Ever busy and, looking at the fine rooms and breakfasts, it’s no wonder. They also run one of the best restaurants in the area, where butterflies flutter in the garden. Köveskál, Fő utca 6-8. kaliartinn.hu 22
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KISLAKI GUESTHOUSES Winemaking hosts the Légli family take guests back in time with their old-school oven heating their houses made of natural materials, where you shower in a wooden tub. A wine shop operates from June through August. Balatonboglár-Szőlőskislak, Fő utca 44. kislaki.com KŐ ÉS KAVICS VENDÉGHÁZAK Two fully refurbished guesthouses with a strong Mediterranean feel have been opened at the Kővirág restaurant, where you can bookend the day with a hearty meal. The kitchen operates daily in summer, and most weekends in winter. Köveskál, Fő út 9/A. kovirag.hu LISZKAY BORKÚRIA At this luxurious and idyllic lodging by Kálimedence, Mihály Liszkay plays piano while guests swim in the pool and enjoy a stunning selection of red wine in the evening. Monoszló 48/2. liszkay.com MANOR HOUSE INN It’s hard to imagine a better place with a decent kitchen, a children’s playroom and a book-lined lounge than the Manor House Inn – all a short walk to Csopak Beach. Csopak, Fürdő utca 4. manor.hu PÁSKOM COTTAGE Páskom Cottage features an outdoor pool, a spa cabin, a fine restaurant and a wine cellar, all built around the peace and quiet of a Swabian winemaking village. Lajoskomárom, Ozorai utca. paskom.hu VÁLIBOR Péter Váli created this wine-tasting haven in Badacsonyörs, complemented by a couple of equally idyllic bedrooms. The guesthouse even has its own lookout tower. Badacsonytomaj-Badacsonyörs, Major utca 46. valibor.hu VILLA MILLENNIUM Family-friendly with a colourful interior and verdant surrounds, this villa is ideal for lovers of water sports. You can also find local wines for sipping on the terrace. Balatonalmádi, Mikszáth utca 5. villamillennium.hu 2018 / spring — Summer
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Veganeeta Home
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7 exciting new places for summer KIKÖTŐ PLACC A new market is setting up at Balatonfűzfő for the summer to create a cool community space filled with stands offering Hungarian products, food trucks, plus a playground for kids. Balatonfűzfő, Aradi utca 2. facebook.com/kikotoplacc PALETTA SIÓFOK There are a few Paletta outlets already scattered around Balaton, all doing well with this mix of sophisticated bistro eats and beach food. Expect the same deal here. Siófok, Szent László utca 185. facebook.com/PalettaSiofok PÉKLÁNY Hungarian baker Orsi Zeliska opened her petite pâtisserie in Balatonfüred, offering rye bread, cocoa babka loaves, orangecinnamon pastries and other tempting delights. Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 3-5. facebook.com/Peklany.Pekseg 24
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Pista BÁ’ After closing its operation in the heart of Budapest, this popular spot for sour-dough pizzas, craft burgers and BBQ sandwiches has just set up at Balaton, with a takeaway service too. Fürdő utca 34, Balatonfüred. facebook.com/Pistabafured PURA VIDA PORT This eatery at Keszthely harbour focuses its cuisine on Mediterranean flavours, including Neapolitan pizzas and other simple delights made from healthy ingredients. Keszthely, yacht harbour. facebook.com/puravidaport SZÁLKA BISTRO The owners of Zománc Bistro in Vászoly and Neked Főztem in Zánka joined forces to bring top-quality fish dishes to Aszófő. All very tempting, and all set to open in June. Aszófő, Balaton utca 12. facebook.com/szalkabisztroaszofo
Pura Vida Port
VEGANEETA HOME This hangout opened in April in the centre of Balatonalmádi, appealing to vegans, vegetarians and those following a gluten-free diet or just looking for healthy eats. Balatonalmádi, Baross Gábor utca 2/B. veganeeta.com
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Kalóz Strandbisztró
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5 TOP spots for beach food A Konyhám Gourmet burgers, salads, and vegetarian/vegan treats are on offer on the main beach at Balatonfenyves, where breakfast, lunch and dinner can be had at reasonable rates. Balatonfenyves, Balatonpart utca. facebook.com/akonyham Kalóz Strandbisztró Tastefully filled flatbreads, Hungarian fish ‘n’ chips, home-made burgers and catfish skewers fly out of the Kalóz kitchen, found by the beach at Balatonudvari-Fövenyes. Balatonudvari-Fövenyes, Strand utca 1. kalozstrandbisztro.hu
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Pavilon Standard fare gets a twist at Pavilon, where treats such as pulled carp and basalt burgers are served at Dog Beach in Fonyód, an aquatic attraction for four-legged bathers. Fonyód, Kutyastrand The Spot A combination of classic Hungarian street food and a hamburger gives you lángos burger, a signature treat that adds mouthwatering appeal to Vonyarcvashegy Beach. Vonyarcvashegy, Fürdő utca. facebook.com/thespotgrillandbar Vitorlás Bisztró This lakeside chalet in Keszthely lures beachgoers to sample strawberry cream soup with cottage-cheese dumplings, and devour Balaton treats such as pan-fried hake. Keszthely, Csík Ferenc sétány 3. facebook.com/vitorlasbisztrokeszthely
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Strand Festival
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10 fun festivals EVERNESS FESTIVAL As opposed to rowdy parties, this festival is about relaxation. If yoga sessions and spiritual therapy float your boat, this is the place to pitch your tent in June. Alsóörs. June 20-25. everness.hu Balaton Sound Taking place at the edge of the lake, this is summer’s biggest electronica extravaganza. Headliners this year are Rita Ora, David Guetta and the Chainsmokers. Zamárdi. July 4-8. balatonsound.hu VeszprémFest At this festival where opera, jazz and soul mingle, tenors Ramón Vargas and Josá Cura, Bob Marley’s son Ziggy and Grammy-winning singer Joss Stone tread the boards. Veszprém. July 11-14. veszpremfest.hu 28
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Badacsony Bor7 Some of Hungary’s best wines come from the volcanic slopes where this festival brings together the many local varieties. Folklore and music also feature. Badacsonytomaj. July 13-29. facebook.com/BadacsonyBor7 VESZPRÉM STREET MUSIC FESTIVAL This is one of the funkiest free festivals in Hungary, where for four days, musicians from all over the world play on every corner of Veszprém city centre. Veszprém. July 18-21. utcazene.hu VALLEY OF ARTS In the tiny settlement of Kapolcs and surrounding villages, concerts, film screenings and theatrical performances are staged over ten days, along with craft markets. Kapolcs, Taliándörögd, Vigántpetend. July 20-29. muveszetekvolgye.hu PALOZNAK JAZZ PICNIC Relax on picnic blankets during the day and dance under the starry skies at night. This year, Jamie Cullum and Kraak & Smaak take the stage at this good-time gathering. Paloznak. Aug 2-4. jazzpiknik.hu BALATONFÜRED WINE WEEKS Sample some of the best wines from the nearby terroirs, available for tasting along the Tagore Promenade, an elegant lakeside walkway in Balatonfüred. Live music too. Balatonfüred. Aug 10-Sept 2. facebook.com/ balatonfurediborhetek B.my.Lake About 100 DJs, including Richie Hawtin and Maceo, spin before sweeping vistas on the shoreline, where swimsuit-clad party people gather to let loose to electronica. Keszthely. Aug 22-25. bmylake.hu/2018 STRAND FESTIVAL Rag’n’Bone Man, 30 Seconds to Mars and Robin Schulz are among the many music masters who are coming to make merry over four days at this prime lakeside spot. Zamárdi. Aug 22-25. strandfesztival.com 2018 / spring — Summer
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Szent Donát Birtok
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10 great Balaton wines BUJDOSÓ – BORDÓ (RED) SPARKLING WINE Produced by a family winery at Balatonlelle, this cinnamon-scented scarlet nectar adds notes of sour cherry for a refreshingly fizzy experience by the southern shore. bujdoso.com GÉRÓ – JUHFARK 2015 With a complete range of aromas from pear to green apple and a pinch of salt, this characteristic Hungarian wine filled with vivid acids suits slow-paced sipping. facebook.com/gero.pince.somlo Szent Donát Birtok – #talajsztori Rosé 2017 Hints of grapefruit and pink peppercorn characterise this young label of the Csopak wine region, created from Kékfrankos, Zweigelt and Cabernet Sauvignon. szentdonat.hu 30
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HOMOLA PINCÉSZET – FURMINT 2016 Scents of spring flowers and minerals are enclosed in this golden Furmint that makes a perfect standalone wine, and a key component to the brand’s Parti Szél Cuvée. homolapinceszet.hu KÁLI KÖVEK – SAUVIGNON BLANC 2017 The Balaton Uplands are home to prime volcanic wines, including this complex citrusy Sauvignon Blanc, a result of fine blending and spontaneous fermentation. kalikovek.hu KÉT JÓ BARÁT MEG AZ ANTI – KÉKNYELŰ 2015 This distinct interpretation of the classic Hungarian Kéknyelű hints of whitepetal flowers with dominant fruity elements. The end result is a light fragrance, coupled with complex flavours. facebook.com/ aketjobaratmegazAnti LÉGLI – VILLA BOCAR CHAMPAGNE 2013 Renowned Balatonboglár winemaker Ottó Légli also prides himself in fine-quality sparkling libations made from Rhine Riesling and Pinot Noir – brut of course. leglibirtok.hu PÁLFFY PINCE – BIRTOKBOR RED CUVÉE 2016 Pálffy’s spicy fusion of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Kékfrankos and Zweigelt makes an essential tipple for convivial summertime gatherings. The wine offers somewhat earthy tones with certain traces of plum. palffypince.hu UJVÁRI – OLASZRIZLING 2015 Lemon pulp, orange rind, almond and bergamot make a splash across the tongue in a harmonious explosion. An intoxicating accompaniment to Balaton barbecue events. facebook.com/Ujvari.Pince VÁLIBOR – BUDAI ZÖLD 2017 Budai Zöld (‘Buda Green’) is a summer hit by Badacsony winemaker Péter Váli. Light and refreshing aromas show signs of floral and fruity bits. Perfect for spritzers. valibor.hu 2018 / spring — Summer
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Várkávézó Szigliget
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3 places for fine ice cream BERGMANN CONFECTIONERY Classic Hungarian delicacies are plentiful at one of Balatonfüred’s sweetest shops, where frosty treats rule in summer. Make sure to try Bergmann’s Mozart ice cream. Balatonfüred, Petőfi Sándor utca 64. bergmanncukraszda.hu FLORIDA This legendary spot on the southern shore draws lengthy queues to sample a wide assortment of gelato from chocolate to caramel and cherry, all made with fine-quality cream. Balatonmáriafürdő, Rákóczi út 85. facebook.com/floridafagyizo VÁRKÁVÉZÓ SZIGLIGET Near Szigliget Castle, this vintage-style hangout scoops frosty pistachio and maracuja-flavoured ice cream with cottage cheese, all free of artificial ingredients. Szigliget, Kisfaludy utca 26. facebook.com/SzigligetVarkavezo 32
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3 attractions for children DIÁS BEACH A firm family favourite, for years now this beach has been among Balaton’s best. A playhouse, a paddling bay, nappy change, a doctor on call and WiFi all feature. Gyenesdiás, Strand utca 3 TAPOLCA CAVE LAKE Perfect for a rainy day, this underground cave system is best explored in little rowboats. A ten-room, child-friendly visitor’s centre, recently renovated, also awaits. Tapolca, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 3. www.bfnp.hu/en/tapolca-lake-cave-visitor-centre-tapolca
Veszprém ZOO
VESZPRÉM ZOO An evergreen alternative to beaches, this home of pink flamingos, penguins and many other exotic residents saw its numbers grow by four this year with the birth of two pairs of ringtailed lemurs. Veszprém, Kittenberger Kálmán utca 17. veszpzoo.hu
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Liliomkert Market
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3 great local markets FONYÓD MARKET This bustling bazaar on the southern shore is a haven for those looking for old-fashioned knickknacks. Expect to find a hodgepodge of flowers, pots and pans, and car parts. Fonyód, Gáz utca LILIOMKERT MARKET This pioneering artisanal market puts the focus on local produce: fresh cheese, home-made bread and vegetables grown nearby are proffered here every Sunday morning. Káptalantóti, Petőfi utca. liliomkert.lapunk.hu TIHANYI PIAC PLACC On Saturdays until 2pm, the area by the ferry port at Tihany transforms into a large market, where you can find all things from truffle sauce to antiquated artefacts. Tihany-Tihanyrév, ferry port. facebook.com/piacplacc 34
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3 spots for water sports BAMBOO SZIGET A kilometre-long water-skiing course, wakeboarding and kneeboarding provide adrenaline rushes at this Siófok sports centre. A bar and deckchairs serve less active guests. Siófok-Szabadifürdő, Csúszda utca 1. facebook.com/Bamboosziget SUP CENTER BALATON In Tihany, you can try stand-up paddle boarding, an offshoot of surfing. For SUP, riders stand on their boards and use a paddle to propel themselves through the water. Tihany, Rév utca 7. facebook.com/SUP.Center
SUP Center Balaton
VONYARCVASHEGY WATER-SKI & WAKEBOARD COURSE Lidó Beach at Vonyarcvashegy on the western part of the lake is a haven for sports aficionados, with the attraction of a long course for waterskiing and wakeboarding. Vonyarcvashegy, Fürdő utca 1
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Wiew from The Rusty Coffee Box
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10 spots at the gateway to the Balaton Balatonalmádi villas The south coast has the villas of Fonyód – the north, Balatonalmádi’s. Built a century or so ago, they can be visited on Hungarian-language tours laid on at the local Tourinform office. Balatonalmádi, Városház tér 4. balaton-almadi.hu BalatoniBob Leisure Park & Serpa Adventure Park Enjoy adrenaline-boosting activities in sylvan settings atop Balatonfűzfő, with a summer bobsled track, an adventure park and paintball. Balatonfűzfő, Uszoda utca 2. balatonibob.hu. serpakalandpark.hu Kenese bank, nature trail & lookout point The silt wall above Balatonkenese attracts nature aficionados seeking its protected crambe plant, while all visitors enjoy the scenic Soós Hill lookout tower. Balatonkenese, Tátorján sétany. bfnp.hu/hu/balatonkeneseitatorjanos-tt 36
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Kenese Bistro Self-proclaimed as “more than a tavern” as it was the old-school Két Dudás, this bistro offers an eclectic selection thanks to a top chef and quality ingredients. Alfresco seating, too. Balatonkenese, Balatoni út 42. facebook.com/kenesebistro Lélek Labor Bár Bistro, pub, café and wine bar on the main square in Balatonalmádi, the Soul Laboratory Bar is a community place where bands and DJs keep the party going all year round. Balatonalmádi, Városház tér 4. facebook.com/leleklaborbar Pörc This Hungarian delicatessen sells a curious range of locally sourced merchandise, such as goose salami and deer ham. You’ll also find select cheeses and various types of mustard. Balatonkenese, Fő utca 23. facebook.com/porcmagyardelikat The Rusty Coffee Box Operating under the same umbrella as Budapest’s coveted My Little Melbourne, this converted container is a great place to enjoy artisanal java and sweeping panorama. Balatonakarattya, Kisfaludy sétány. facebook.com/ therustycoffeebox Szabó Bakery This old-fashioned bakery in Almádi’s Upper Town is run by an elderly couple who know regulars’ favourites by heart, bake at dawn and serve right up to closing at 11pm. Balatonalmádi, Baross Gábor út 43 Szépkilátás Bistro Balatonakarattya is known for its scenic settings, for example this unconventional bistro, a railway station lookalike near road 71, which serves superb homemade burgers. Balatonakarattya, Rákóczi út 6. facebook.com/szepkilatasbisztro Szörf Beach Also referred to as Zagykazetta, this soon-to-bedeveloped Balatonfűzfő waterfront is a surfers’ paradise that can also provide training sessions for beginners. Balatonfűzfő, Sirály utca. facebook.com/zagykazetta 2018 / spring — Summer
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BALATONFÜRED & AROUND From Tihany Abbey to the Castle District of Veszprém and the villas of Balatonfüred, a millennium of history is here to see. Those drawn by the past have plenty of choice but will also find a rich cultural life and topnotch gastronomy. And even a hidden beach along the way.
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Villa romana
tagore promenade
Tihanyi Lavender apรกtsรกg farms
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Vaszary Villa
Tihany Abbey
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Tihany Abbey
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7 historic must-sees in the region LIMNOLOGICAL INSTITUTE This venerable institute for the study of inland waters is happy to share its deep knowledge of Lake Balaton. It also holds an open day every summer, with Q&A sessions. Tihany, Klebelsberg Kuno utca 3. bli.okologia.mta.hu LIPTÁK HOUSE/HUNGARIAN TRANSLATORS’ FOUNDATION Discreetly hiding behind tall birch trees, the former house of writer Gábor Lipták was a hangout for Hungary’s most prominent literary figures of the mid-20th century. Balatonfüred, Petőfi Sándor utca 28 MÓR JÓKAI MEMORIAL HOUSE Hungarian writer Jókai was a regular visitor here in the 1870s, and he and his wife built a summer home in Balatonfüred. This fine villa has been operating as a museum since 1954. Balatonfüred, Honvéd utca 1. vaszaryvilla.hu 42
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PALOZNAK CHURCH & KERTMÖG ESTATE In his will, 11th-century crusader Guden left his estate to the church. This is therefore one of the oldest known vineyards in Hungary. Try their famous wine, Kertmög. Paloznak, Boldog Apor Vilmos utca 3 TIHANY ABBEY Tihany’s historic jewel in the crown provides a beautiful view over Balaton. The oldest words written in the Hungarian language are in the abbey’s founding charter dating to 1055. Tihany, I. András tér 1. tihanyiapatsag.hu TIHANY HERMIT HOUSES These intriguing cave homes, inhabited for centuries by Greek Orthodox monks during early medieval times, are the only remaining ruins of Central Europe’s hermit community. Tihany, Óvár-hegy
Villa Romana
VILLA ROMANA This set of ancient ruins presents the architecture and way of life of the Romans through mosaics, frescos, gardens and an abundance of artefacts. The visitor’s centre has more details. Nemesvámos-Baláca.
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Sailing Museum
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5 classic cultural attractions KOGART A permanent exhibition shows the works of 20th-century Hungarian sculptor Miklós Borsos, while exciting temporary displays feature all kinds of art and installations. Tihany, Kossuth Lajos utca 10. facebook.com/kogarttihany LEVENDULA HÁZ LÁTOGATÓKÖZPONT Discover the distinct ecosystem of the Tihany Peninsula at this interactive exhibition, including lavender plants also available for sampling on-site in cordial drinks. Tihany, Major utca 67. levendulahaz.eu SAILING MUSEUM The upper floor of the Vitorlás restaurant has a display related to sailing, with photos, audio recordings and a storm simulator that imitates tempestuous weather conditions. Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány 1. vitorlasetterem.hu 44
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Vaszary Gallery
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VASZARY GALLERY Works by Hungarian Impressionist István Csók and famed radical Catalan Joan Miró have featured in this exhibition space, complementing a bookstore and a panoramic café. Balatonfüred, Honvéd utca 2–4. vaszaryvilla.hu
Kogart
VESZPRÉM CASTLE DUNGEON This 17th-century jail is where controversial Cardinal Mindszenty was incarcerated during World War II. It’s now home to a permanent prison exhibition, opened in 2015. Veszprém, Vár utca 19. ldm.hu/hu/kiallitohelyek/varborton
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Márga Bisztró
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10 top dining destinations APÁTI RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Whether you crave thin-crust margherita, an oven-baked beef ragout or risotto with beetroot, this roadside eatery serves all this and much more to discerning diners. Tihany-Sajkod, Romkápolna utca 2. sajkod.com BARICSKA CSÁRDA Heritage dishes are fused with contemporary cuisine at this traditional Hungarian spot, where the menu lists goulash, catfish stew and Magyar Mangalica pork. Balatonfüred, Baricska vineyard. facebook.com/BaricskaCsarda BISTRO SPARHELT Wine and dine in a minimalist setting at one of Balaton’s most popular hostelries, where masterful seasonal dishes are crafted from locally sourced ingredients. Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 7. facebook.com/bistrosparhelt 46
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HORVÁTH HOUSE Set in the rustic cellar of a 19th-century villa in the heart of Balatonfüred, this eatery pairs the region’s finest wines with local delicacies. Summer terrace, too. Balatonfüred, Gyógy tér 3. horvath-haz.hu MÁRGA BISZTRÓ Come to Márga Bisztró for a genuine culinary experience, where reimagined Hungarian dishes include chicken breast with black sesame seeds, as well as roast veal served with duck liver. Csopak, Szitahegyi út 28. facebook.com/margabisztro MORZSA BISZTRÓ Known for its inexpensive daily lunch specials posted up outside during the week, Morzsa Bistro recently offered a fine ginger soup with mint, possibly followed by the ever-popular Morzsa burger. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 9. facebook.com/morzsabisztro PETRÁNYI WINE CELLAR Nestled amid the bucolic Csopak hillside, this welcoming winery offers an unmatched panorama, the area’s famous Welschriesling and food made according to family recipes. Csopak, Homokbánya út 31. facebook.com/petranyibor SÁFRÁNKERT RESTAURANT Sourcing seasonal ingredients, this popular destination serves original combinations, such as rosé duck breast with vegetable strudel, and pike perch on black tagliatelle. Paloznak, Fő utca 1. facebook.com/safrankertvendeglo SÖPTEI WINERY The family-run venue blends traditional dishes with bistro-style delicacies. Order the home-made appetiser platter and admire vistas unfolding from the terrace. Csopak, Istenfia utca 5. facebook.com/sopteipinceszet VÍGMOLNÁR CSÁRDA Local treats are served with a twist at Vígmolnár, whose whitewashed walls, thatched roof and beehive oven offer a fairytale setting for the full rustic experience. Csopak, Kőkorsó utca 1. facebook.com/vigmolnar.csarda 2018 / spring — Summer
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Arácsi Confectionery
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5 prime pâtisseries ARÁCSI CONFECTIONERY This friendly confectionery offers sweet and savoury treats that sell out quick, so make sure you don’t miss the last slice of heavenly home-made krémes creamcake. Balatonfüred, Arácsi út 132. aracsicukraszda.hu Bergmann This distinguished Bergmann confectionery dynasty runs two places in Balatonfüred. Instead of new-wave treats, the focus is rather on tasty traditional delights. Balatonfüred, Petőfi Sándor utca 64 and Zsigmond utca 1. bergmanncukraszda.hu 48
The name of Bergmann has been prominent on the Hungarian confectionery scene for decades. In 1939, pastry chef Imre Bergmann opened his first shop in Győr, paving the way for a sweet business spanning four generations. The family earned prestige in Balatonfüred for using the finest ingredients.
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KAROLINA CAFÉ The uncrowned queen of confections on the north shore specialises in huge home-made desserts that go far beyond the regular assortment elsewhere. Decent sandwiches, too. Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca 4. karolina.hu KEDVES CONFECTIONERY Set in a former holiday home by the Balatonfüred tourist information office, this confectionery offers cakes from Veszprém, plus home-made pies. Brunches also served. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 7. facebook.com/KedvesCukraszda
Bergmann
Tündérsziget Head off the main street in Tihany to this garden of an old family home to try shakshuka, fruit bowls and cakes in the shade of an old walnut tree – and with a fine view. Tihany, Kossuth utca 29. facebook.com/tundersziget.tihany
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5 spots for local wine FIGULA WINE BAR If you don’t fancy trekking to their estate for a glass, you can find the wine bar of the Figula family beside the yacht harbour. Try the 2015 Sóskút Olaszrizling. Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca 4. facebook.com/FigulaBorbar HOMOLA WINE TERRACE It’s worth the climb to this terrace atop Paloznak not only for the great rosés, reds and whites but also for the outstanding panorama. DJs sometimes spin discs in summer. Paloznak, Vincellér utca. facebook.com/borteraszpaloznak JÁSDI WINE TERRACE Nothing beats sipping wine on this terrace while enjoying the view of the whole eastern basin. Platters of Serrano ham and Bakonyi goats’ cheese complete the picture. Csopak, Arany János utca 2. jasdipince.hu
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KREDENC This bar belongs to the empire of András Dobai, a man whose knowledge of local wines is second to none. If you get a bit peckish, you can munch on delicious pulled pork, too. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 7. facebook.com/kredencfured
Jásdi Wine Terrace
SZŐLŐSI PUB Involved in wine company Bortársaság since 1993, Attila Tálos recently renewed this little locale. Many come from near and far for Auntie Kati’s traditional stuffed cabbage. Balatonszőlős, Fő utca 10
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Attila Jásdi’s love of wine com es from his father. Their name today is a guarantee of top-quality reds and whites from Csopak. WLB: How do the Csopaki Kód ex ratings and BalatonBor brand, both introduced a cou ple of years ago, help consumers? AJ: There are six wine regions here that are not easy to distinguish. This is why BalatonB or is a great initiative and a safe bet if you want to start drinking Balaton wines. The Csopak Kódex ratin gs are the next step. We wanted to guarantee the high quality of wine from the mountains and from vineyard s alike. The aim is to guide consumers in the world of Balaton wines and to encourage ever yone to try products from all price categories. And we are proud for Csopak to say that we are the first in Hungary to get a governmental Protected Designation of Orig in on our wines.
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Lake Belső
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5 ideas for tours & jaunts CSÁKÁNY HILL LOOKOUT TOWER Atop 317-metre-high Csákány Hill, this lookout tower is best approached on the panoramic trail from Paloznak, but the climb is also pleasant from Nosztory Valley. Csopak, off Csákányhegyi utca KOLOSKA VALLEY The road here leads through a wildlife park where deer, mouflon, fawn and pheasants roam. The park is free to enter – it takes an hour or so to walk around it. Balatonfüred, Koloska-völgy LAJOS LÓCZY TRAIL This was the first study trail in Hungary and presents the prettiest places around the Tihany Peninsula. You need about six hours to take in this 18-kilometre walk. Tihany-Sajkod, Apáti church ruins 54
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Tihany
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LAKE BELSŐ If you follow the scent of lavender and the herons soaring above, you will be led to this little oasis of peace, a tiny tarn formed many years ago by volcanic activity. Tihany, Major utca. tihanyibelsoto.hu
Őrtorony lookout tower
ŐRTORONY LOOKOUT TOWER Looking more like a watchtower, this viewpoint is 30 minutes from Tihany. From the top, you can see Tihany Abbey, the lakes and, when weather permits, the other shore. Tihany, Mályva utca 19. bakonyerdo.hu
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Sajkod Beach
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5 best beach spots CSOPAK BEACH This fun splashing spot has the biggest slide at Lake Balaton, as well as a water-adventure park with a climbing wall, bouncy castle, waterpolo and many other activities. Csopak, Örkény sétány 1. strand.csopak.hu ESTERHÁZY BEACH The exclusive Esterházy Beach by Balatonfüred’s famed Tagore Promenade is a well-kept lakeside park with a panorama over Tihany. There’s a free beach library, too. Balatonfüred, Tagore Promenade. balatonfuredistrandok.hu/ eszterhazy.html 56
While it’s generally rare to find a beach on the north shore with free admission, Balatonfüred and surroundings have plenty of them. Elsewhere, the price of a one-day ticket to the lido starts at around 400 forints, while entry to a more prominent one can even set you back as much as 1,000 forints.
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GÖDRÖS BEACH By the main road with paid-for parking, this free beach provides plenty of watery entertainment, dotted with food outlets and a shaded adventure park alongside. Tihany, Lepkesor PLATÁN BEACH Off the beaten path, peaceful and not too crowded. With shade from towering plane trees, there are sports facilities, a slide, a sandpit and a panorama over Tihany. Örvényes, Fürdő utca. facebook.com/orvenyes.strand
Gödrös Beach
SAJKOD BEACH This quiet getaway lies to the west of Tihany, with food outlets hiding in the shade. It is best reached via the hiking trail or by bike as the scenery is quite something. Tihany-Sajkod, Sajkodi sor 22. facebook.com/sajkodstrand
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The legend of Nemere II Nemere II was a sailboat that set such a high record in 1955 at Balaton’s Blue Ribbon competition – the oldest round-the-lake race in Europe – that it wasn’t beaten for 57 years. In the meantime, technology has advanced in leaps and bounds, new training methods have been adopted and yet… the Blue Ribbon didn’t see a faster boat until 2012. Why wasn’t one built? Well, many were, of course – but contestants have to wait until the very day of the competition to show off their skills. And on that famous day in 1955, weather conditions were particularly blustery. In reality, there were faster boats well before the record was finally beaten in 2012 and, in the end, the hypermodern Fifty-Fifty didn’t even need strong winds to rewrite history.
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Veszprémvölgy
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HANGVILLA This contemporary construction is home to a multifunctional community space for creative groups, arts education and concerts. It also has a restaurant and a music club. There is even a four-star hotel close by, the Historia, should you wish to stay over. Veszprém, Brusznyai utca 2. hangvilla.com MODERN ART GALLERY – LÁSZLÓ VASS COLLECTION In 2000, shoemaker Vass offered his private art collection to the city of Veszprém. Items include paintings, graphics and sculptures by European abstract artists. Veszprém, Vár utca 3–7 VESZPRÉM CASTLE DISTRICT Serving as the city’s main hub of culture, this cobblestoned area contains a basilica, a palace, a fire tower and, of course, the castle that lends the locality its name. Statues and other historic landmarks abound. VESZPRÉMFEST Between July 11th and 14th, the 15th annual VeszprémFest presents renowned artists in various musical genres, including Ziggy Marley, José Cura and Joss Stone. Veszprém. veszpremfest.hu VESZPRÉM GASTRONOMY Veszprém has fine restaurants in spades, with dining destinations such as the Villa Medici with Hungarian fusion cuisine, bistro-style Gusto13 and the Mediterranean Oliva among its outstanding options. VESZPRÉM STREET MUSIC FESTIVAL Between July 18th and 21st, street musicians from all over the world take over the city’s squares and thoroughfares to entertain with free shows late into the night. utcazene.hu VESZPRÉMVÖLGY The U-shaped valley of Séd Creek is an ideal spot to admire historic ruins, devour oven-baked dishes at Fricska Bisztró or drop by Historia Garden for a coffee. Veszprém, Betekints-völgy (along Séd Creek). veszpremvolgy.hu 2018 / spring — Summer
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KĂ LI-MEDENCE & AROUND The geological and ethnographical wonders of the Balaton Uplands are found in the KĂĄli-medence, which was closed off and undisturbed for centuries. Today many head here for the remarkably beautiful landscape, for the mineral-rich wine, and for improving local gastronomy, now a significant player in the Balaton region.
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Szentbékkálla, stone field
tóti hill
SAlföld
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hegyestű
Dörgicse church ruins
Lake Kornyi
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Dörgicse church ruins
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10 top cycle stops DÖRGICSE CHURCH RUINS Dörgicse once consisted of three villages, and three churches. All fell into the ruins you can see today. Upper Dörgicse is 900 years old, built on Roman foundations. Dörgicse, Fő utca, Temetői út, Diófa utca GYÓGYNÖVÉNY-VÖLGY ‘Herbal Valley’ in Zánka should attract anyone interested in medicinal plants. Some 400 varieties are grown here, for specialist and layman alike, and fun for kids. Zánka, Fő utca 3–7. gyogynovenyvolgy.hu HUNGARIAN PROVENCE If lavender is in bloom, try and make a stop by the Monoszló estate. Acres of lavender stretch out before you, ready to be harvested over the course of a month. Monoszló, Boncsos vineyard, plot 804. magyarprovencelevendula.hu 66
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LAKE KORNYI Right in the middle of Káli-medence, whenever the pond dries out, it’s the perfect spot for birdwatching – as well as a setting-off point for walking tours. Kővágóörs, by the road to Köveskál. www.bfnp.hu/en/kali-basin PAJTA MUSEUM Old Feri Oltárczi runs the museum he created to present village life and the activities of the locals, a cosy but worthwhile attraction in an old barn. Szentbékkálla, Kossuth utca 13. szentbekkalla.hu/e/pajtamuzeum.html PÁLOS MONASTERY Boldog Özséb’s monks were happily living in cloisters until the Turks reduced the building to dust. Today it is an important medieval ruin, accessible on several hikes. Signposted from Salföld. SALFÖLD To complete any list of local destinations to cycle to, it’s worth including Salföld as a whole, mainly thanks to its dazzlingly refurbished traditional farmhouses. Salföld. bfnp.hu/en/manor-salfold SALFÖLDI MAJOR Here Mangalica pigs snort, racka sheep baa and other domestic creatures can be stroked. There’s also a photo exhibition, a spice and herb garden, and horse riding. Salföld, Kossuth utca. bfnp.hu/hu/salfoldi-major-salfold SZENTBÉKKÁLLA STONE FIELD The entire Káli-medence contains valuable geological remains and rocks. The huge ones at Szentbékkálla are scattered around here – including one that rocks somewhat precariously to and fro. Szentbékkálla, by the cemetery track. ingoko.hu TÖTTÖSKÁL CHURCH RUIN Built in the time of Árpád 1,100 years ago, Töttöskál village was destroyed by the Ottomans. Later rebuilt, it was in ruins by the 19th century. Above you, if you choose the right night, shooting stars fall. Szentbékkálla, Hegyaljai vineyards 2018 / spring — Summer
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The Káli-kapocs has become a cult ruin bar in the Káli-medence, where locals share tables with tourists exploring the are a by bike. But according to venue owner Bal ázs Bánlaki, this favourable trend is only just beginning. WLB: What has changed radi cally in the Káli-medence over the last couple of years? BB: It is brimming with life aga in as more and more people are thinking about leaving the city behind and coming to this family-friendly place. This can about bring about invaluable change to the cou ntryside. The area avoids dying out and depopulation, and new job opportunities favour local residents, perhaps preventing the younger generation from heading abro ad. There is more and more quality lodging, so hosts can stay open all year round. Of course, there is still a lot of wor k to be done, as well as all the necessary co-operation, but at least things are starting to come together.
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Káli-kapocs
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7 places to feel the magic of Káli-medence HULLÁM HOSTEL Once foreign backpackers pour into Révfülöp, Hullám will be their cult venue. Sip a coffee, slurp an evening spritzer, enjoy the show or just stroll down to Fülöp Quay. Révfülöp, Füredi út 2–3. balatonhostel.hu HUMAN COMEDY STATUES In the heart of Káli-medence, by Lake Kornyi, stand four strange statues made out of steel tubing and limestone by Imre Veszprémi. Below stretch the villages of Káli. Kővágóörs, Kornyi-tó KÁLI-KAPOCS A Káli point of reference, Kapocs brings together locals of all stripes. It’s a classic village pub, where hip-hop act Punnany Massif might look in now and then. Mindszentkálla, Petőfi utca 11. facebook.com/K%C3%A1likapocs-468264396606589 70
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KIKÖTŐ Fine breakfasts are served in this pine guesthouse, created by Zoltán Hegyi, once of alt-rockers Sexepil. It’s a vintage paradise where you’ll feel obliged to stay over. Mindszentkálla, Jókai Mór utca 7. facebook.com/kikotomindszentkalla PAJTA GALLERY A cool spot in the two-street village of Salföld, Pajta is an 18+ photo gallery, local restaurant and modest lodging in one. You may run into owner/photographer László Török. Salföld, Petőfi utca 9. facebook.com/pajta.galeria PEGAZUS Run by Sára Fegyverneky and Olivér Auguszt, chilled Pegazus is the heart of the Szentbékkálla art scene, with exhibitions, performances, concerts and parties, plus food and drink. Szentbékkálla, Kossuth utca 39. pgzs.hu
Human Comedy Statues
SALFÖLD PIT LAKES This hidden bathing spot is reached by a narrow, sandy track. After the Kisörsi sandpits, these romantic lakes are cool in summer, but you swim at your own risk. Salföld-Kisörspuszta
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Kővirág
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7 unmissable restaurants KÁLI ART INN Praised by The Times, this high-quality lodging in the Balaton Uplands runs a restaurant of equal standard, using fresh herbs and ingredients grown in its surrounding garden. Köveskál, Fő utca 6. kaliartinn.hu KŐVIRÁG György Mészáros and Kata Zakar set up this tasteful guesthouse and restaurant a decade ago. Fresh, seasonal dishes feature on a chalked-up menu changed every three days. Köveskál, Fő utca 9/A. kovirag.hu MÁKVIRÁG BORHÁZ ÉS VENDÉGLŐ On a hill outside Révfülöp, guests can sample wines produced on-site and stored in a centuryold cellar, as well as locally sourced traditional dishes, all year round. Révfülöp, Petőfi Sándor utca 4 72
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MI A KŐ Tamás Trombitás and team run this gastronomic point of reference, serving spring greens, summer peppers and autumn game ordered from small-batch producers with each season. Köveskál, Fő utca 25. mia-ko.hu
Neked Főztem
NEKED FŐZTEM Your hike to the top of Zánka is rewarded with a fine meal provided by Csongor Horváth and his wife, known for their former outlet at Zánka lido. Seasonal, bistro menu. Zánka, Fő utca 7. facebook.com/nekedfoztemzanka
Pántlika winery & Porta Beside the winery, this restaurant emphasises seasonality. Most ingredients come from local producers, so on separate visits you rarely find two menus the same. Summer terrace. Dörgicse, Fő utca 67. pantlikapinceszet.hu ZOMÁNC BISZTRÓCSKA In the heart of the charming village of Vászoly, György Jónas and Zsolt Szőke offer quality versions of classic Hungarian fare served from traditional red saucepans. Vászoly, Vazul utca 8. zomancbisztrocska.hu 2018 / spring — Summer
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Pálffy Borterasz
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3 top terraces KÁLI KÖVEK In the heart of the gastro village of Köveskál, Gyula Szabó showcases his wines in a family house from the Kádár era. Enjoy your large Rizling spritzer out in the garden. Köveskál, Fő utca 11. kalikovek.hu KŐ FAGYI? Káli-medence isn’t big on desserts, except for ice cream. Ferenc Biszku and clan produce an almond one from real almonds, with no skimping on raw materials. Rosé is a fave. Mindszentkálla, Petőfi Sándor utca 31 PÁLFFY BORTERASZ This Káli family winery offers excellent varieties, along with fine bites sampled on the terrace, from where you can observe busy cyclists and passing cars. Köveskál, Fő út 40. palffypince.hu/borterasz 74
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3 best beaches Pálköve beach One of the most hidden beaches on the northern shore is this one at Palköve, where few crowds gather. Retro lovers will dig the summer hostel, echoing holidays of yore. Kővágóörs-Pálköve, Pálkövei út 60. facebook.com/palkove Révfülöp Szigeti strand For nearly a century, this has been of the main beaches at Révfülöp, with free toilets and a playground. An occasional open-air cinema provides post-bathing fun. Révfülöp, Sziget utca 1. revfulop.hu/magyar/balaton-szigeti-strand-revfulop
Pálköve beach
Zánka beach A sandy beach volleyball court, water basketball, WiFi and takeaway lángos are all on offer near the centre of Zánka. Even on busy Saturdays, there should be picnic space. Zánka, Rákóczi út. zanka.hu/strand
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Óbudavári cheese
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5 top spots for local produce KÁLI PINCE Revered winemaker Balázs Káli is brave enough to experiment by producing good wines from his old reserves, and renovating his cellar beside historic Töttöskál Church. Szentbékkálla, Petőfi utca KAPOLCSIKUM SYRUPs AND JAMs Starting small, Ivett Farkas and Attila Leitold now produce raspberries, elderberry, strawberries, apples and grapes for the well-known jams and syrups on the market. Kapolcs, Petőfi utca 45. kapolcsikum. wixsite.com/kapolcsikum 76
It’s worth sampling the produce when you’re at the market. Most traders will have some grasp of English. Not only will you get a complete picture of what you are buying, it may just turn out that there’s something special on offer that day – plus, you’ll get to hear the best stories.
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LEVENDULA PORTA It is hard to pigeonhole Porta, where you can shop for home-made cheese, syrups, jams, jellies and products created with local lavender. Bring a tent to stay the night. Kékkút, Fő utca 18. levendulaporta.hu LILIOMKERT PIAC Thanks to the hard work of Ildikó Harmathy, this pioneering market, a showcase for local producers of quality, is still in action. Parking spaces limited in high season. Káptalantóti, Petőfi utca. liliomkert.lapunk.hu
Kapolcsikum Syrups and Jams
ÓBUDAVÁRI CHEESE Bálint Szabó has come a long way, leaving the teaching profession to become an expert in the way of goats. Here he produces milk, cheeses hard and soft, and yoghurt. Óbudavár, Fő utca 20. obudavarikecskek.hu
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Cool Káli-medence Káli-medence is a strictly protected area that retains its old architectural heritage, mainly thanks to the bohemian intellectuals from Budapest who played a key role in preserving it. This process accelerated in the 1970s: for locals, it became an attractive alternative to leave behind rural communities and find work and social housing in Tapolca or Veszprém. The beauty of these abandoned villages was then discovered by the likes of film director Miklós Jancsó, songsmith Tamás Cseh and artist Győző Somogyi. They soon got together and, from the bottom up, began to create a protected area around Kálimedence. Meanwhile, artists kept arriving from Budapest. In the years after 1989, a higher class of resident moved in, giving rise to local tension – but with farmhouses beautifully restored and sparkling wine flowing each summer, Káli-medence has found its balance.
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5 finest views of Káli-medence FÜLÖP HILL LOOKOUT TOWER An hour’s hike out of Révfülöp and then a climb beyond, you are treated to a wraparound view of Balaton, showing its proximity to Káli-medence. Admission to the tower is free. Révfülöp, Mogyoró utca 15 HEGYESTŰ Hungary’s most beautiful mining landscape, Hegyestű comprises basalt columns that stand dramatically after once being quarried by hand, enhanced by a stunning panorama. Monoszló. bfnp.hu/en/hegyestu-geological-visitor-site-monoszlo KÁROLY EÖTVÖS LOOKOUT TOWER From here on Fekete Hill, all the little lakes spread out before you, but for a whole panorama of Lake Balaton itself, you need to scale the Károly Eötvös Lookout Tower. Köveskál, Fekete-hegy KOPASZ HILL To enjoy the view of the whole Káli-medence spread out below, set off from Mindszentkálla up to this point 330 metres high – then grab a deckchair at the Káli-kapocs bar. Mindszentkálla, Kopasz-hegy TÓTI HILL The smallest of Balaton’s tanúhegyek or buttes requires a Himalayan effort to climb to the very top. From there, the nearby hills and Káli-medence are clearly visible. Káptalantóti, Tóti-hegy
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Badacsony & AROUND Here, around the most famous extinct volcano in Hungary, you can not only find the most distinctive of Balaton’s wines, cultivated in particularly fertile soil, but scenic terraces and quality gastronomy to accompany them. Alongside Badacsony, historic Szigliget, once an island, has a tale or two to tell.
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Szent Gyรถrgy hill
Lengyel Chapel
Szigliget Castle
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csobánc
gulács
badacsony
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Ranolder cross
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5 best spots atop Badacsony BUJDoSÓK LÉPCSŐje After the trek up Badacsonytördemic, the 464 ‘Exile Steps’ leading to the top of Badacsony is quite a challenge, but the breathtaking view soon eliminates all calf strain. Badacsonytördemic EGRY JÓZSEF LOOKOUT POINT The Blue Trail is Hungary’s longest hiking trail. Following it at Badacsony, you reach this small clearing, with a clear view of the lake and sprawling vineyards. Badacsonytomaj, above Kuruc körút tanosvény 86
In summer, with beaches and promenades crowded, a walk in the woods to head up to the top of Badacsony can be the ideal getaway. The entire trek from the town centre to the peak can be strenuous, so be sure to take a lot of liquid with you. Climbing the Bujdosók steps is a physical challenge in the heat – but the view more than makes up for it.
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KISFALUDY LOOKOUT TOWER At 437 metres atop Badacsony Hill, 18-metre-high Kisfaludy is the tallest lookout tower around Balaton. With its unique, modern structure, it is quite a sight in itself. Badacsonytomaj RANOLDER CROSS Calling the region ‘the most beautiful land in the world’, Bishop János Ranolder built this iconic hilltop monument in 1857. They say that 40 buffaloes hauled the lot up. Badacsonytomaj, Rodostói út
Kisfaludy lookout tower
RÓZSAKŐ This smooth basalt cliff, named after the wife of poet Sándor Kisfaludy, has magical powers: hand-holding couples sitting on it with their backs to the lake will soon be wed. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy Sándor utca
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Castle of Szigliget
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7 top tour routes BADACSONY HILL From the Rózsakő basalt-stone formation, a twohour trip takes you to the Kisfaludy lookout point atop the hill. The best panorama can be enjoyed near Ranolder Cross. Badacsonytomaj, Badacsony BASALT ROUND TRIP Setting off from the Istvándy winery, a light hike leads across iconic basalt formations with stopovers for wine tasting and a visit to a former internment camp. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 155 CASTLE OF SZIGLIGET Often referred to as Balaton Castle, this ruined stone structure is open year-round. Special events highlight Baroque cuisine and feature fencing, archery and concerts. Szigliget, Kisfaludy utca 26. szigligeti-var.hu 88
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CSOBÁNC After a short climb up a steep trail, hikers reach the summit of Csobánc Hill to ramble around ancient castle ruins or just gaze at paragliders conquering the sky. Gyulakeszi, Csobánchegy GULÁCS Beginning at either Káptalantóti, Nemesgulács or the Ludám vineyards, romantic routes run atop Gulács, passing by a derelict quarry and the Sér Well that spouts spring water. Nemesgulács, Gulács RÓKARÁNTÓ East of Szigliget, Szentháromság Chapel towers above Rókarántó Hill, featuring elevated vineyards, lush orchards and holiday cottages. An ideal spot for snapping photos. Szigliget, Külső-hegy
Csobánc
SZENT GYÖRGY HILL Ascend this 415-metre-high slope to admire its dragon cave, rare ferns and the area’s most important sight: the hilltop basalt pillars, reminiscent of a pipe organ. Raposka, Szent György-hegy
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The Battle of Szigliget Built in the 1200s, the Castle of Szigliget is open to visitors year round. This massive stone construction also served as a naval base in the 17th century, when Turkish troops appeared at the southern shore of Lake Balaton, aboard a 20-metre-long and three-metre wide vessel that carried a crew of 30. In response to the attack, the Habsburgs built similar boats in Upper Austria and took them down the Danube all the way to Vienna and beyond to the Hungarian city of Győr, to reach their end destination, Szigliget, overland. These warships were generally used for coastal incursions, but during the 1600s, two galleys came into conflict here. The Battle of Szigliget ended in Turkish victory, with 15 Hungarians killed and four taken prisoner.
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Papa Áron Cellar
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7 best places to eat BORBARÁTOK At this traditional, Hungarian-style restaurant, you’ll find dishes such as feta beetroot soup, and artisanal wines from a century-old cellar. Guest rooms available, too. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 88. borbaratok.hu ISTVÁNDY WINERY & PIKNIKBÁR A visit here comes with fine views of grey cattle grazing and Lake Balaton beyond. Great Mangalica on the menu and don’t miss out on the grey-beef burger either. Káptalantóti, Hegymőg dűlő. istvandy.hu PAPA ÁRON CELLAR Áron Molnár and Karina are fans of Indian, Middle-Eastern and Mediterranean vegetarian cuisines, and make tasty tapas with produce from their own garden. Book ahead. Hegymagas, Szent György-hegy. facebook.com/PAPwines 92
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SZÁSZI CELLAR At the idyllic Szászi family estate, you can devour delicious Mangalica and fine wines surrounded by vast vineyards, birdsong and a huge walnut tree. Lodging available. Szent György Hill. facebook.com/szaszibirtok TILLA WINery This basalt-walled wine cellar is a soothing shelter in summer. Game dominates the menu, while the wine assortment represents the new generation of Badacsony producers. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 168-170. hotelneptunbadacsony.hu VILLA KABALA This Mediterranean villa provides food, local wines and rooms with a view to Balaton. Enjoy reconfigured traditional dishes and peaceful lounging on the terrace. Szigliget, Kamonkői út 48. villakabala.hu
Villa Kabala
VILLA TOLNAY This guesthouse and restaurant offers quality at the foot of Csobánc Hill. The wines here are of outstanding value and the accompanying dishes, hot or cold, are top-notch. Gyulakeszi, Csobánchegy 24. villatolnay.hu
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Csendes Dűlő Estate
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7 top terraces for wine with a view CSENDES DŰLŐ ESTATE A team of young winemakers offers refreshing Rieslings, golden Hárslevelű and flower-scented Szürkebarát, all served at a panoramic terrace overlooking Badacsony. Badacsonyörs, Hegyalja út 69. facebook.com/csendes.dulo FOLLY BOTANICAL GARDEN AND WINERY Century-old trees transform this sylvan destination with distinct colours every season, while refreshing dry wines are served in the lounge come rain or shine. Badacsonyörs, Kápolnavölgyi út 25. follyarboretum.hu FRISSTERASZ Run by the renowned Laposa winemaking family, this alfresco hangout serves some of the region’s best wines – and juiciest burgers. Pull up a deckchair and/or hay bale. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 179. facebook.com/frissterasz 94
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ISTVÁNDY WINERY In the heart of Badacsonytomaj, this former villa has been transformed into a casual wine bar. Pop by to sip sparkling spritzers or for an edifying wine-tasting event. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 155. istvandy.hu
Pláne Badacsony Wine Terrace
LAPOSA WINERY Sip volcanic wines from the scenic terrace of a refined hilltop estate where irresistible whites, including Pinot Gris, Muscat, Furmint and Juhfark, are served. Badacsonytomaj, Bogyai Lajos út 1. facebook.com/LaposaBirtok
PLÁNE BADACSONY WINE TERRACE A renovated period building proffers a selection of wines from nearby cellars, including smallbatch libations. A terrace is open for dining out here during summer. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 18. facebook.com/planebadacsony VÁLIBOR This hidden estate is home to a rustic wine bar offering the unique Budai Zöld and iconic Riesling varieties from the Váli cellar. Guest rooms and barbecue facilities, too. Badacsonyörs, Major utca 46. facebook.com/valibor 2018 / spring — Summer
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ily is one of The Laposa winemaking fam high-quality the driving forces behind the are forging the hospitality and libations that to Zsófi Laposa, future for Badacsony. According for many active in local wine production distinguish the years, specific characteristics vineyards here. you prefer to work with and WLB: Which grape varieties do l renown? which could find internationa lű, a variety only found here. ZsL: I would highlight Kéknye from this grape is highly Thanks to its fine acids, wine flavour. I like Olaszrizling, structured with a mineral-rich n associated with Tokaj, it’s very easy to work with. Ofte , prevalent around the Somló Furmint is my other favourite n for a long time, but here give and Badacsony wine regions an added aroma. int could find fame abroad Recognisably Hungarian, Furm ke Olaszrizling, the Furmint for its distinct flavours. Also, unli us to foreigners. name doesn’t sound ambiguo
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Budapest edition
now out!
Discover the best of Hungary! A new nationwide edition includes the best destinations, events and lodgings around Sopron, Tokaj, the Mรกtra and Debrecen.
Out this summer!
Badacsonytomaj Beach
b a d a c s ony & A R O U N D
3 best beach spots BADACSONYTOMAJ BEACH This pleasant, cosy and recently renovated lido complex offers green grass for picnics, a small sandpit, a playground, backboards in the water and cheap admission. Badacsonytomaj, by road 71 FERENC HERCZEG BEACH & ECO VISITOR CENTRE There’s always a quiet spot for your family – and plenty of entertainment. A volleyball court, a playground, water tours and an interactive exhibition all feature. Badacsonylábdihegy, Vízpart utca 3 SZIGLIGET BEACH This spacious green oasis provides free parking, bike racks, sports courts, a sauna and delicious fish grilled by Oszi bácsi, in the soothing shade of towering trees. Szigliget, Soponyai út 2018 / spring — Summer
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KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ Many head for the unique spa lake of Hévíz and its replenishing, healing waters unaware of the attractions nearby. In Keszthely, you find the sumptuous Festetics Palace and in nearby Zalaszántó, a Buddhist temple. Near Balaton’s airport of Sármellék, the lesser lake of Kis-Balaton enjoys protected national park status.
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K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
Lake Hévíz
Festetics Palace
kis-balaton
Balaton Museum
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Vonyarcvashegy Chapel
szépkilátó
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Festetics Palace
K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
5 finest attractions AMAZON HOUSE VISITOR CENTRE This imposing 18th-century inn is now home to a travel-themed display showing historic chariots, old-timers and vintage suitcases across an interactive viewing space. Keszthely, Kastély utca 11 BALATON MUSEUM Considered the official museum of Balaton, this eclectic exhibition space displays all things historic to the region, from dissected aquatic animals to model ships. Keszthely, Múzeum utca 2. balatonimuzeum.hu FESTETICS PALACE This fabulous Baroque mansion is embellished with a French-style park, sculptures and palm trees. It also contains the last surviving aristocratic book collection in the country. Keszthely, Kastély utca 1. helikonkastely.hu 104
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MUSEUM OF HUNTING & HISTORIC MODEL RAILWAY EXHIBITION This twin attraction present exotic trophies of hunters from past centuries and scale models of trains representing the Hungarian, Austrian and German railways. Keszthely, Pál utca 1. facebook.com/VadaszatiModellvasutKiallitas
Museum Of Hunting & Historic Model Railway Exhibition
RUINS OF VALCUM See traces of the colossal castle that used to protect the surrounding military roads of the Roman Empire. Discovering this historic landmark is an expedition in itself. Fenékpuszta
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Szálinger is Award-winning writer Balázs nsylvanian poet, considered by many as a Tra , near Balaton. As but he was born in Keszthely rs he edited a well-known author, for six yea on the town of the the magazine Hévíz, focused talent was same name, in which young brought to the fore. tage makes Keszthely WLB: What kind of cultural heri and how did it influence an important literary centre, your work? an György Festetics to the BSz: From influential noblem celebrations, tradition has 200-year-old Helikon festival n here. The many been a pioneering phenomeno ts, and the renowned locals Keszthely verses by great poe poser Károly Goldmark such as actor Lajos Básty, com e that Keszthely has an and poet Júlia Szendrey, all prov cultural history. This important place in Hungarian y and an inspiration. heritage is both a responsibilit thely – I will only be I only have one verse about Kesz essing, elegantly and satisfied if I can succeed in expr rather an admirer of even just once, what I feel. I am worthy successor would this huge tradition – to be its be impossible. 106
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Öreg Harang
K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
7 top dining destinations in the region BOCK BISTRO BALATON Reds and whites from the Villány wine region pair well with roast goose, veal stew and fish dishes at this Balaton-based branch of Budapest’s upscale Bock Bistro. Vonyarcvashegy, Helikon utca 22. facebook.com/bockbisztrobalaton FARM INN This traditional Magyar eatery offers seasonal local delicacies like duck and Mangalica meat, alongside fruit-infused desserts, all prepared by a creative German chef. Zalacsány, Örvényeshegy 20. facebook.com/farminnzalacsany Csóka Fészek Here an unbeatable panoramic view comes with the chef’s suggestions – pike perch with asparagus or rolled Mangalica spare rib – each twinned with a specific wine. Szépkilátó, Balatongyörök. facebook.com/csokafeszeketterem 108
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K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
KASTÉLYPINCE The cellar beneath Baroque Festetics Palace is a showcase for the region’s best wines. The aromatic libations are fine accompaniment to Hungarian dishes served with a twist. Keszthely, Kastély utca 1. balatoniborokhaza.hu ÖREG HARANG WINE BAR & RESTAURANT Atop the vine-covered Egregy Hill near Hévíz, this heritage venue is the place to go to sample goat, grey cattle, donkey, guineafowl and rabbit dishes. Hévíz-Egregy, Zrínyi utca 181. oregharang.hu TULIPÁN CAFÉ Found in a quiet residential area of Keszthely, this elegant edifice is the place to devour heavenly Hungarian cakes and pastries. Wines and beer accompany the treats. Keszthely, Erzsébet Királyné útja 30. facebook.com/tulipankavehaz
Végh-pataki strudel house
VÉGH-PATAKI STRUDEL HOUSE & SANDWICH MECCA By the Festetics Palace, this simple locale sells hulking hamburgers, sandwiches and flaky strudels. Home-made syrup specialities help wash down the hefty treats. Keszthely, Sopron utca 5. reteshaz.hu
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Zalaszántói Béke Sztúpa
K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
7 top tour destinations CSODABOGYÓS CAVE Save a rainy day or ward off sunstroke underground – the temperature never dips above ten degrees. This tour tests your fitness, but will be worth it. Entry by appointment. Balatonederics. csodabogyos.hu EGREGYI HILL Embark on this light and easy tour from the centre of Hévíz to take in a 700-year-old church and the several wine cellars and restaurants that line the way up the hill. Hévíz-Egregy HÉVÍZ VÉDERDŐ & PARK If you’re done soaking in the healing waters of Hévíz for the day, you can embark on a tour around the surrounding forest to listen to the birds and watch the squirrels. Hévíz, Lake Hévíz. heviz.hu 110
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K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
KIS-BALATON This is one of Hungary’s most colourful and exciting nature reserves, scattered with marshes and plentiful flora and fauna. Several birdwatching spots also feature. Balatoni Nemzeti Park. facebook.com/bfnpkisbalaton
Szent Mihály Chapel
SZENT MIHÁLY CHAPEL Legend has it that 40 fishermen erected this chapel as a token of gratitude for their lucky escape from floating on the icy lake. The view is worth the visit alone. Vonyarcvashegy, Szent Mihály-domb. facebook.com/szentmihalyhegy
TÁTIKA CASTLE This medieval castle ruin sits on one of the hilltops of the Keszthely range, a 30-minute walk from Zalaszántó. At 412 metres high, it makes for a perfect hike. Zalaszántó, Keszthelyi-hegység. zalaszanto.hu/project/tatika ZALASZÁNTÓI BÉKE SZTÚPA This is the largest Buddhist stupa in Europe. Seeing it already evokes the Far East and, thanks to the nearby meditation room, you can even travel there in spirit. Zalaszántó, Világosvár 13. facebook.com/peacestupa.hungary 2018 / spring — Summer
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Matula bácsi’s hut The little hut of Matula bácsi has an important role in the revered book by Hungarian writer István Fekete, Tüskevár (‘Thorn Castle’). It also exists in real life. In remembrance of the author, it was erected – together with a memorial house – on Diás-sziget near Kis-Balaton. Visiting is by appointment only. Fekete spent much of his time here observing nature and people, and used his experiences to write one of the most-read Hungarian tales of all time. The hut now serves to present the long-lost activities of marshmen, fishermen and hunters who lived in mud villages and on the moorlands. They did not cultivate the land, but harvested anything that grew on the moor. This way of life existed until the early 1900s, giving Fekete time to observe and immortalise these men in his novel.
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3 majestic vantage points BÉL MÁTYÁS LOOKOUT TOWER If you climb 221-metre-high Garga Hill, you find this wooden lookout tower, providing a fine panorama across the lake. Built in 1972, it was revamped in 2013. Balatongyörök, Garga-hegy. balatongyorok.hu/en/programok/kilatok
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K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
PADKŰI LOOK-OUT TOWER A hike following the signs from Csereze utca in Vonyarcvashegy brings you to this 19-metre-tall look-out tower. Leave the world behind for sweeping vistas in quiet reverence. Vállus, Padkűi kilátó
Szépkilátó
SZÉPKILÁTÓ No hill and no tower, but a fine view: Szépkilátó is special. Gaze over the hills of the north shore and plains of the south. Picnic tables, a car park and cafés also on hand. Balatongyörök, by road 71
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Vonyarcvashegy Lidó Beach
K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
5 top beach spots DIÁS BEACH Regularly listed among the best Balaton beaches, this fun plunge zone is a paradise for families, where children can frolic amid a well-equipped aquatic playground. Gyenesdiás, Strand utca 3 LAKE HÉVÍZ The world famous thermal lake replenishes itself every three days, providing bathers with healing waters. Special accessories are sold on-site to keep you afloat. Hévíz, Dr Schulhof Vilmos sétány 1. heviz.hu LIBÁS BEACH Once a goose pond, the city’s newest beach near the Keszthely marina is now a showcase for pleasure yachts and a place for ambient live music on summer evenings. Keszthely, Libás strand. facebook.com/LibasStrand 116
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Hotel Helikon
K ES Z T H EL Y & H É V Í Z
PANNON UNIVERSITY WATER SPORTS GROUND By the Hotel Helikon near the Pecás food stall, this pier is the ideal location for tanning, taking a morning swim or lounging alfresco, all for a few hundred forints. Keszthely, Csárda utca
Lake Hévíz
VONYARCVASHEGY LIDÓ BEACH A surfing school, a curving slide, wakeboarding- and water-skiing courses entice sports aficionados to soak in sunshine across seven acres of greenery and several sandy spots. Vonyarcvashegy, Fürdő utca 1
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Balatonboglár & AROUND While the north shore earns all the plaudits for beauty, the south shore has its many attractions, too. Just stroll along the row of grandiose villas in Fonyód, sip a fine Irsai Olivér at Kishegy by Balatonlelle or dine at famed Kistücsök at Balatonszemes.
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csavargőzös
Várhegy Lookout Tower
Fonyód villas
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Gömb globe
Szent Donát Chapel
kishegy
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Bujdosó winery
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7 winning wine cellars BUJDOSÓ One of the most popular family wineries on the southern shore attracts oenophiles with fruity Chardonnay, scarlet Cabernet Franc and refreshing sparkling wines. Balatonlelle, Várszói út. bujdoso.com GARAMVÁRI ESTATE The local characteristics of the Balaton terroir add a distinct touch to Garamvári’s fizzy sensations that derive their inspiration from French champagne culture. Balatonlelle, Kishegyi út 42. garamvariszolobirtok.hu IKON Owned by the local Konyári family, the IKON brand has become a byword for high-standard wine. Order by the glass while you lounge on the vineyard’s panoramic terrace. Látrány, Szent Borbála utca 1. ikonboraszat.hu 122
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KISLAKI The charming Kislaki cellar is where you can enjoy harmonious reds and whites in the middle of a sprawling vineyard. It’s a place for occasional picnic events, too. Balatonboglár-Szőlőskislak, Fő utca 44. kislaki.com KONYÁRI This intimate winery belonging to the same family behind the prominent IKON label is an obscure find, complete with a villastyle guesthouse and a cellar dating to 1757. Balatonlelle-Kishegy, 0113/7. konyari.hu LÉGLI VINEYARD Fresh whites and full-bodied reds characterise the Légli libations produced in Balatonboglár, where these wines are available for sampling at the family cellar. Balatonboglár, Árpád utca 47. leglibirtok.hu
Kislaki winery
PÓCZ Immerse yourself in the beautiful Balaton panorama while sampling flower-scented Irsai Olivér or a glass of spicy merlot by a hillside cellar. Lodgings also available. Balatonlelle-Kishegy, 0107/6. poczpinceszet.hu
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The wines of Kishegy Towering above Balatonlelle on the southern shore of the lake, 300-metre-high Kishegy features a charming Baroque chapel, several high-quality hostelries and a unique panorama from the hilltop. This bucolic destination makes an ideal day trip for sipping fine reds and whites at the nearby Garamvári and Pócz wineries. You can dine out and even spend the night at one of the on-site guesthouses run by the Konyári and Majthényi estates, both set in rustic surroundings. For easy navigation around the area, just follow the signposted South Balaton Wine Route. The trail cuts through an area of some 3,200 hectares of vineyards, cultivated since Roman times, and today by some 2,800 producers in 37 settlements.
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Kristinus winery
B ALA T O N B O GL Á R & A R O U N D
7 cracking restaurants BL YACHTCLUB & APARTMENTS BL offers a little bit of everything: a restaurant with hearty, high-quality domestic and international dishes at affordable prices, apartments, a spa and boat rental. Balatonlelle, Köztársaság utca 36–38. blyc.hu HEGYI CSÁRDA At this traditional fuss-free eatery, with a stunning view, goose leg and the classic Hungarian poppy-seed dessert, mákos guba, can be washed down with a shot of pálinka brandy. Balatonlelle-Kishegy, 0107/31. hegyicsarda.hu KISTÜCSÖK Offering characteristic local flavours, this homely 25-year-old restaurant is a key attraction at Balatonszemes, with 2018 Bocuse d’Or winner Ádám Pohner in the kitchen. Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinskzy út 25. kistucsok.hu 126
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Majthényi Présház
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KRISTINUS WINERY AND GASTRO WORKSHOP Here the interior is modern and the dishes flavourful and beautifully presented. The chef once worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant, so expect special surprises. Kéthely, Hunyadi utca 99. kristinus.hu MAJTHÉNYI PRÉSHÁZ This century-old eatery offers quality traditional dishes from a menu featuring delicacies such as guinea fowl, lamb and goose leg. Dining on the terrace is memorable. Balatonlelle-Kishegy, Panoráma utca. majthenyi.hu MANGO RESTAURANT & CAFÉ Run by a real local, tucked in from the lake, authentic Mango awaits guests with an excellent bistro kitchen, a modern interior and often live music in the evenings. Balatonlelle, Móló sétány. mangocafe.hu PALETTA BISTROBAR AND VINOTECA For years, Dániel Bezerics has shaped Balaton gastronomy at Paletta by tirelessly working with local ingredients, such as his sturgeon burger made fresh on the spot. Balatonboglár, Kikötő utca 6. palettabisztro.hu 2018 / spring — Summer
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One of Balaton’s most renowned restaurants attracts customers from all ove r Hungary. Owner of the Kistücsök in Balato nszemes, Balázs Csapody is committed to offering discerning diners high-quality dishes. WLB: What would make the gastronomy of the Balaton region internationally acclaim ed? BCs: Local producers, winerie s, hotels and restaurants should join forces to stay ope n year-round and offer more culinary events. Balaton needs even more convivial and welcoming lodgings of high standard. In terms of gastronomy, our base ingredie nts such as game, locally grown seasonal fruit and veg etables, and cheeses, plus walnut and peanut oils , always find favour. Pike perch would also be essentia l, though there are fishing restrictions. A healthy mix of family-run eateries, bistrostyle hangouts and fine-din ing locales would make for a more balanced restaurant sele ction.
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Gรถmb globe
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5 splendid spots to see the north shore CRYPT VILLA A man loved his betrothed so madly that when she died before the wedding, he built a villa in her memory. Now there’s a café – and the same view that kindled the romance. Fonyód, József utca FONYÓD PIER This is the longest pier at Lake Balaton, and perfect for a rendezvous à deux. Take a stroll to enjoy sweet lakeside scenes and feed the plentiful ducks and swans. Fonyód móló GÖMB panoramic globe This futuristic, spectacular spherical iron structure sits atop a small wooded hill in the middle of Balatonboglár, providing wonderful 360-degree views for many miles around. Balatonboglár, Várdomb, Kilátó utca. balatonboglarbob.hu/ kalandpark/gombkilato VÁRHEGYI LOOKOUT TOWER One of two lookout towers in Fonyód, this more recently renovated four-storey wooden structure provides wonderful wraparound vistas right across the west side of Lake Balaton. Fonyód, Várhegy utca. fonyodert.hu/kilatok SZENT DONÁT CHAPEL Atop a hill, this 18th-century chapel built by winemakers is a typical example of local Baroque and provides a perfect panorama of Lelle, Boglár and Balaton itself. Balatonlelle-Kishegy. balatonlelle.hu/hu/kishegy 2018 / spring — Summer
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Csiszta Baths
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5 top spots for real retro Balaton ÁRKÁD ICE-CREAM PARLOUR Behind an unpretentious doorway, frosty treats are served from old-school containers storing basic flavours from a bygone area, such as chocolate, lemon, vanilla and punch. Balatonboglár, Dózsa György utca 37 CSISZTA BATHS A cherished hotspot for German senior citizens, Csiszta entices soakers with mineral-rich thermal waters fed by a steamy spring found some 600 metres underground. Buzsák-Csisztapuszta, Fürdő tér. csisztafurdo.hu FONYÓD VILLAS Dating back to the 19th century, constructed to accommodate local aristocrats, this row of palatial properties remains one of the town’s architectural highlights. Fonyód, Bartók Béla utca 132
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Rock Burger
B ALA T O N B O GL Á R & A R O U N D
IBOLYA BÜFÉ This old-school eatery at Kodály Beach in Balatonboglár treats bathers to fine-quality Hungarian favourites, including stuffed peppers, tripe and local freshwater fish. Balatonboglár, Kodály Zoltán utca 24. facebook.com/ibolyabufe
Árkád ice cream
ROCK BURGER Once housing a rowdy rock pub, this semi-hidden hangout away from the peaceful shore along main road 7 is now all about succulent burgers named after legendary bands. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 194. facebook.com/rockburgerofficial
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Mester Confectionery
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3 top pâtisseries in Somogy GELETA CONFECTIONERY Offering excellent ice-cream cups and various kinds of cakes, this sweet store is a remarkable rival to the area’s only other legendary confectionery, nearby Márton. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi utca 269. geletacukraszda.hu MÁRTON CONFECTIONERY Lajos Márton has been making dessert masterpieces for about 50 years now, using home-made cream and organic fruit. Long queues in summer, free parking and WiFi all year. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 239. facebook.com/martoncukraszdabalatonlelle MESTER CONFECTIONERY, CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT Mostly frequented these days for its tasty burgers, bagels and burritos, but the high-quality confections are also noteworthy. Cakes are creamy, ice creams heavenly. Marcali, Rákóczi utca 2-4. facebook.com/mesteretterem 134
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3 fabulous beaches on the south shore BUBORÉK WATER PARK Set by Platán public beach, familyfriendly ‘Bubbles Water Park’ is a playground designed for children with a collection of pools, slides and other amusing attractions. Balatonboglár, Platán tér FONYÓD BEACH FOR DOGS With faithful Fido by your side, you can dive into aquatic pleasures at this expansive waterside zone, with scenic views over Badacsony across the lake. Free admission. Fonyód, Vitorlás utca (by water police HQ). kutyasstrand.hu
Fonyód beach for dogs
NAPFÉNY BEACH A long sandy coastline, fun waterslides, saunas and plenty of superb sports facilities make ‘Sunshine Beach’ at Lelle one of Balaton’s most popular bathing havens. Balatonlelle, Napospart utca 3
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SIÓFOK & AROUND Balaton’s party town is a busy metropolis that gives the 24-hour clock its best shot. Just over an hour from Budapest by train or car, Siófok and nearby Zamárdi claim the lion’s share of cool festivals, clubs and beaches. If it gets too much, there’s always the Szantód ferry to Tihany.
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Zamárdi beach
Szántód ferry
Kőhegy Lookout Tower
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Water Tower
Siófok beach
Töreki Lakes
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Ezüstpart Szálló
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7 amazing architectural delights EZÜSTPART SZÁLLÓ Ernő Tillai’s hotel construction dating from 1983 reminds its admirers of a giant egg-holder. No longer in operation but worth saving as an architectural landmark. Siófok, Liszt Ferenc sétány 4. ezustpart.com KRÚDY-VILLA Revered Golden-Age novelist Gyula Krúdy spent many a peaceful happy summer in this villa near the Siófok waterfront, now refurbished and operating as pension accommodation. Siófok, Mártírok útja 4 140
Long an iconic symbol of Siofok, the water tower underwent a complete refurbishment a few years ago. In the building today, alongside the café and oxygen bar, a visitor centre provides a high-tech 360-degree panoramic experience.
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Szántód rév
SIÓFOK & AROUND
SIÓFOKI METEOROLÓGIAI OBSZERVATÓRIUM Rebuilt in 2008 as an architectural rebellion against Socialist-Realism, this UFO-like building is where air and rainfall are analysed, and storms predicted. Siófok, Vitorlás utca 17 SZÁNTÓD RÉV The ferry port (rév) at Szántód has a unique shape, earning it the nickname of ‘The Shark’. Here boats leave every 40 minutes in summer for the short hop to Tihany. Szántód, Tihany utca 9 SZÉPLAK SUMMERHOUSES As you set off from Balatonszéplak felső station towards Széplak alsó, modern examples of Bauhaus architecture dot the streets between main road 7 and the waterfront. Balatonszéplak felső THANHOFFER-VILLA Built in 1897 by a renowned doctor, this villa once served as the HQ of Miklós Horthy, Hungary’s leader between the wars. It has since been restored as a hotel. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 4. thanhoffer-villa.hu VÁGÓ-VILLA The fin-de-siècle residence of painter Pál Vágó is also known as the Palik Villa after the Grand Prix commentator who lived here. Later sold, it can still be admired today. Siófok, Batthyány Lajos utca 4B 2018 / spring — Summer
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Egy Csipet Nádas
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5 best places to eat ANNO TAVERNA Traditional, meat-oriented Hungarian dishes – saddle of venison, breaded pork, pork knuckle – are served in a homely setting in Balatonszárszó, just off main road 7. Balatonszárszó, Szóládi utca 1. facebook.com/annotaverna EGY CSIPET NÁDAS Töreki, outside Siófok, is like an idyllic little village, and this mood suits Egy Csipet (‘One Pinch’), with dishes created from healthy ingredients and themed menus. Töreki, Töreki utca 40. egycsipetnadas.hu FISH HOUSE Set in from the Siófok waterfront, Fish House comprises a pretty homestead with a terrace where fresh- and seawater delights are devoured, grilled or with spaghetti. Siófok-Sóstó, Pusztatorony tér. facebook.com/fishhousesosto 142
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Fish House
SIÓFOK & AROUND
MALA GARDEN ÉTTEREM A local curiosity, this hotel restaurant focuses on Thai flavours, designer chairs and Buddha sculptures providing the right setting to sample quality Oriental cuisine. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 15A. malagarden.hu
Rozmaring Kiskert Vendéglő és Pizzéria
ROZMARING KISKERT VENDÉGLŐ ÉS PIZZÉRIA A family-friendly choice, this stand-alone house set in greenery offers decent pizzas and pastas best enjoyed at an outdoor table. Plenty of dessert choices, too. Siófok, Akácfa utca 47. facebook.com/rozmaring.pizzeria
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Villa Gréta Cukrászda
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5 top pâtisseries CAFÉ MELBA The owners learned their craft at Budapest’s gilded New York Café, so that they can offer their creamy expertise at this chic venue in the vicinity of Siófok station. Siófok, Fő utca 172. facebook.com/cafemelbasiofok MANDARA CAFÉ Adjacent to the Mala Garden, the Mandara borrows something of its Oriental atmosphere, offering a range of cakes in the fridge and a limited food menu in high season. Siófok, Szent István sétány 15A. malagarden.hu/mandara-cafe-lounge SZÉLCSEND KÁVÉ ÉS MÁS In the centre of Balatonföldvár hides Ili Majthényi’s confectionery empire, where choices include Belgian chocolate cake, plum pie, chestnut cake and Toledo fruitcake. Balatonföldvár, Budapesti út 1. facebook.com/szelcsendkave 144
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Szélcsend Kávé és Más
SIÓFOK & AROUND
VILLA GRÉTA CUKRÁSZDA This venture by a friendly couple showcases the confectionery skills of Ágnes Szilágyi. Even in winter, there are queues out the door for the poetically divine cakes. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 38. facebook.com/villagretasiofok
Café Melba
VÖLGYHÍD KÁVÉZÓ Providing impressive views from the café terrace, the Völgyhíd offers quality cakes, coffees, wines and cordials, best enjoyed as you admire the bridge nearby. Kőröshegy, 121 exit from the M7 motorway. volgyhidkavezo.hu
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Gréta, Lajos and Owners of confectionery Villa when they Ági Szilágyi, had no experience fok favourite. The started out, but today it is a Sió inspiration. couple provides true quality and plans, and how WLB: What were your original Gréta worked out?
has Villa
Ági only baked as a hobby, LSz: In the beginning my wife it as an art form. Our but she soon started to treat feel that there’s something customers agree and always a sprinkle of love. We wanted extra in our cakes – which is a small turnover, but the to open a homely place with job, and within just two hobby turned into a full-time . We see the high volume weeks we became very popular still don’t understand how of customers coming in, but we a long time, we didn’t want we became so successful. For have to. However, since we to expand, but we will probably e, customer service or ambienc cannot let this affect quality, all keep can we that e sure this will only happen once we’r same high level. the at s dard stan and es our valu
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Lajos Szilágyi Ági Szilágyi
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Rita Ora
5 great music parties for summer
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Blahalouisiana
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BESTIVAL GRAND OPENING The curtain-raiser for the summer season at Siófok’s main waterfront venue of Plázs will feature funky hip-hopsters Punnany Massif from Pécs and reggae/ska act Ocho Macho. June 16. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 3 BLAHALOUISIANA SZIMFONIK Beatsters Blahalouisiana perform retro-tinged tunes in collaboration with award-winning composer Ádám Balázs, whose film scores include recent hit On Body and Soul. June 23. Balatonföldvár, Kultkikötő, Bajor Gizi sétány 1 RITA ORA London’s Rita Ora, whose For You was a huge hit across Europe this year, headlines a strong line-up at Balaton Sound. Look out too for the Chainsmokers and David Guetta. July 6. Balaton Sound, Zamárdi LOVASI ’18 Celebrating his 50th birthday with shows across Hungary, influential alt-rock songsmith András Lovasi performs tunes by his two bands, Kispál és a Borz and Kiscsillag. July 20. Siófok, Nagystrand, Petőfi sétány 3 30 SECONDS TO MARS Jared Leto’s boys zip into Zamárdi as part of their 82-date Monolith Tour to promote their latest album America. The concert also closes the summer season here. August 23. Strand Fesztivál, Zamárdi 2018 / spring — Summer
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Zamรกrdi Kalandpark
3 unique experiences around Siรณfok
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GOKART BALATON Put a little acceleration into your holiday along the straights and round the corners of this smooth go-kart track, where you can zoom off your aggression behind the wheel. Siófok, Jégverem utca. gokartbalaton.hu SIÓFOK-KILITI AIRPORT Why jump out of a perfectly good helicopter? Here at this parachutists’ paradise, the answer is clear – because it’s fun. Prices include a video recording of your feat. Siófok-Kiliti, Szekszárdi út 1. ugranijo.hu ZAMÁRDI KALANDPARK Zoom down a zip line, play water dodgems, jump from a tower or get lost in a maze – a full day isn’t enough for the range of outdoor activities at this adventure park. Zamárdi, Siófoki út. zamardikalandpark.hu
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Zamárdi Nagystrand
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3 top beach spots SIÓFOKI NAGYSTRAND For top summer action, head for Siófok Beach. The famous Petőfi Promenade is nearby, while families congregate around the sandy waterfront and children’s playground. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 3. balaton-parti.hu/siofoki-strandok/siofokinagystrand SZÁNTÓD BEACH PARTY Near Szántód station, at the end of a short street, lies this small, friendly beach, where children can paddle in safety and feast on snacks from the homely buffet. Szántód, Juhász Gyula utca 11 ZAMÁRDI NAGYSTRAND This three-kilometre-long landmark stages major music festivals. Even though it’s free, the beach is rarely crowded, with many bars and benches, and a long promenade. Zamárdi, Margó Ede sétány. zamardi.hu/nagystrand 152
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3 top tour routes KEREKI castle Known as White Stone Castle, this building is now mainly a ruin, but it is worth following the path and climbing a few more steep steps for the spectacular panorama. Kereki, Amáliapuszta. siofokportal.com/Feherko-vara-Kereki SZAMÁRKŐ & KŐHEGYI lookout tower Dating back to the Celts and the Romans, the Zamárdi lookout post of Kőhegy offers a stunning panorama, with a beer terrace alongside. Nearby Samárkő is steeped in legend. Zamárdi: Kőhegy, Kilátó dűlő & Kiserdő széle. zamardi.hu/kilato & zamardi.hu/szamarko
Törek Nature Reserve
TÖREK Nature reserve Local buses run to this unspoiled, 300-hectare protected area of peaceful greenery, where a path runs the whole length of the Cinege stream, dotted with ten lakes. SiófokTöreki, Töreki utca
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Siófok’s brave new world It may not look like it today, but from the end of the 1950s, a unified concept was created to modernise the Balaton area. Construction began according to the awardwinning Balaton Regional Plan of 1957, instigated by leading local architects. On both shores, many buildings gained modern design features, but the most attractive holiday destination was Siófok. Here the most famous hotel complex of Balaton, Lidó and Hungária was built, along with a meteorological station, and the proud if somewhat superfluous harbour building at Szantód. Also erected was legendary bar/disco Orion, tragically demolished in 2014. From the 1970s onwards, little of the plan was put to good use. Previous estimates indicate a 40% surplus in Balaton holiday homes, plots were broken up, and the unified regional plan disappeared.
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the visegrรกd four
Budapest - bratislava - prague - warsaw
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Cooperation between the so-called VisegrĂĄd countries is usually covered in political and economic news reports. Yet Hungary, the Czech Republic, Poland and Slovakia draw on the most diverse cultural heritage in the region, based on common values. The tourist attractions in this area of Europe are also a vital element and presented across the following pages. As you may see, there is plenty to take in. While focusing on three glittering capitals and several rural locations, we also go on a culinary tour of these diverse VisegrĂĄd countries.
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Bratislava With half a million inhabitants, Bratislava is home to fewer people than the other V4 capitals but it is still rich in attractions. You can become familiar with the cultural history of Central Europe by strolling around its buildings. Blue Church One of the most remarkable works by Hungarian Art Nouveau architect ร dรถn Lechner is named after the dominant color later used for its exterior, glazed roof and mosaics. Bratislava Castle Towering atop a rocky hill overlooking the Danube, this colossal rectangular construction once housed the Holy Crown of Hungary but now hosts exhibitions and political summits.
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Grassalkovich Palace Seat of the Slovak president, this Baroque landmark where Haydn premiered many of his works is now best known for its French garden open as a place of public recreation. Michael’s Gate and Tower This Old Town landmark was built in 1300, making it one of the most historic buildings in Bratislava. The tower is open for visitors to climb, the gateway busy with pedestrians. Primate’s Palace The Hall of Mirrors within this pale-pink building witnessed the signing of the Treaty of Pressburg between Napoleon and Francis II in 1805. Today it houses the mayoral office. SNP Bridge Featuring a flying saucer structure hovering over the Danube and housing a panoramic restaurant and observation deck, this cable-stay bridge links the Old Town with Petržalka. Zichy Palace Found in the historic center of Bratislava, this neoClassical edifice features a pleasant courtyard, a prime location for hosting wedding ceremonies and cultural festivals. 2018 / spring — Summer
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Charles Bridge
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Prague The main attraction of the Czech capital remains its beer culture, and while the waiters will still keep the pivo flowing until you ask them to stop, there’s plenty more to see in this historic city. Charles Bridge This statue-lined pedestrian bridge is the city’s most famous attraction. As you weave your way through the selfietaking crowds, the bridge connects you to and from the Old Town. Dancing House This famous example of contemporary architecture was created to resemble Fred and Ginger in full flow, on the riverside site of a building destroyed by Allied bombing. Hradčany Hilltop Hradčany, topped with the enormous Prague Castle complex, provides sweeping vistas over the city. Rising above it all, St. Vitus Cathedral is a major landmark. 160
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Orloj The Old Town’s famed astronomical clock, built in 1410, has been briefly stopped for repairs. Fear not, it should be back operating for all to see from mid-summer. Powder Tower This Gothic tower in Prague Old Town was formerly used for the storage of gunpowder. Today this medieval landmark is the last standing gate of the original city wall. Žižkov TV tower Climb this 93-meter-high landmark for a picturesque panorama and then reward yourself with a pint at one of the many bars in the working-class district of Žižkov. Zlatá ulička First named after the goldsmiths who lived here, this is the street where Franz Kafka wrote during World War I. Many buildings were later repainted in striking colors.
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Warsaw The diversity of Poland’s capital derives from its history. The city was under Swedish and Russian occupation before being destroyed during World War II. It has since been completely rebuilt and brought back to life. Frame House One of Warsaw’s more offbeat attractions, Frame House deals with art in its many guises, paintings, posters, drawings and prints, in a suitably unusual building west of town.
Old town
Łazienki Park By the city center lies one of Europe’s most beautiful parks, a major landmark on the royal route. It houses the summer palace of 18th-century Polish king Stanisław II August.
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Museum of the history of Polish Jews Opened in 2013, this award-winning museum tells the story of Polish Jewry, within a striking contemporary building designed by Finnish architect Rainer Mahlamäki. Neon Museum Warsaw’s classic neon signage from the Socialist era has been gathered and placed in this one industrial setting, a former factory complex. Much is illuminated after sunset. Old Town Warsaw’s main sights are found in and around the Old Town. From the Royal Palace, you can walk to the Holy Cross Church, where the heart of Polish composer Chopin is kept. PALACE OF SCIENCE & CULTURE This Stalinist wedding cake, Poland’s tallest building, dominates Warsaw city center. A swift lift zooms up to the 30th floor, where an observation terrace offers superb views. Warsaw Uprising Museum This imaginative museum tells the story of the city’s brave resistance to the Nazi occupation, displaying objects such as a replica of a US B-24 Liberator bomber used in Allied airdrops. 2018 / spring — Summer
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The Visegrád Countries excel at gastronomy – the Visegrád menu
The Visegrád Countries honour the gastronomic heritage of the region with a menu created from the specialties of the four member countries. Restaurants that join this initiative are required to use characteristic ingredients from these four territories, but they are free to concoct dishes with a modern twist. A standard Visegrád menu – one that you can try making at home from recipes found on the V4 website (v4kozosen.hu) – features the following:
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Slovakia recommends a hearty venison terrine with cottage-cheese crackling, rescue pearls, walnut pesto and salad as a cold dish. Hungary is represented by a modernized traditional dish. They shake up goulash soup with citrus flavors and gremolata spices.
The chefs of the Czech Republic offer a filling main course: melt-in-the-mouth pork roast in beer sauce, cabbage variations and dumplings. Poland suggests duck meat for mains with sweet potato chips, celery root pûrée, smoked cottage-cheese dumplings, fondant potatoes and broad beans.
The menu is complete with the popular and palatable Hungarian treat, somlói galuska, covered in a chocolate glaze.
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Historic Centre of Kraków
T h e Vi s e g rád F our
Beyond the capitals – 6 World Heritage sites in the Visegrád Countries Historic CentRE of Kraków The cultural and ecclesiastic capital of Poland is where you’ll find Europe’s largest market square, centrepieced by the Cloth Hall and contemporary interactive City Museum. Historic CentRE of Telč Featuring grand loggia façades, well preserved Renaissance and Baroque houses provide photogenic beauty around the main square of Telč, deep in southern Moravia. Historic Silver Mine in Tarnowskie Góry This former mine in southern Poland has been transformed into a multimedia museum site, where visitors can experience real conditions and take boat rides below ground. 166
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T h e Vi s e g rád F our
Pilgrimage Church of St. John of Nepomuk at Zelená Hora South-east of Prague, this 18th-century landmark was fashioned in a star shape by Jan Blažej Santini Aichel, founder of a style featuring attributes of neo-Gothic and Baroque. Spiš Castle These remains in eastern Slovakia hint at a former castle complex of remarkable size. The current 12th-century fortification presents an exhibition of weaponry and torture devices.
Zelena Horna
Vlkolínec Located in central Slovakia, this remarkably intact settlement features traditional log houses that preserve the architectural heritage typical of mountain communities.
2018 / spring — Summer
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