DINING
WINE
FESTIVALS
SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019
DINING FESTIVALS
SUMMER — AUTUMN
2019
WINE
INTRODUCTION Lake Balaton is and will always be Hungary’s prime getaway destination – but this is a getaway destination on the move. The beaches, the lidos, the resort hotels, the outdoor fun, the family holidays alongside safe, shallow waters, all these remain – but of late, Balaton has also taken a new direction. Setting a contemporary agenda are independent
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winemakers, inventive chefs and ambitious festival organisers able to attract the likes of Armin van Buuren, Caro Emerald and Sven Väth to these shores this summer. Hungarian artists, musicians and creatives are also setting up at bucolic hangouts here, drawn by a different lifestyle. Here at We Love Balaton, we cover all these events and trends in full, openings and happenings, as well as features, interviews and travel tips. Here’s our selection of the best things to see and do this summer – dive in and have fun!
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HUNGARY
BUDAPEST
Attracting a record number of guest stays in 2018, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Summer sees the city transformed by music festivals and alfresco events.
With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.
BALATON
Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English.
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2019 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content. Throughout 2019, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary. Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort. Distributed free nationwide!
Created by the team behind the lively online magazine about the city they love, this guide shares their tips and expertise. Ruin bars, spas and dining destinations have each been visited, assessed and pinpointed on a fold-out map while this summer’s main festivals and live shows are previewed. Welcome to We Love Budapest!
A We Lov e Balaton FOOD NIGHTLIFE szolgál online friss és magazin megbízh már SPAS régió látn ató info hat éveFESTIVALS rmációk ivalóiról, kal a bala életérő l, szabadid gasztronómiai toni és kulturál ős kiadván yában erre programjairó is l. Nyomta a tudásra és ötleteke tott alapozva t a 201 ad tipp 9-es nyá eket ri–őszi időszakr a.
Ingyenes KIA
GA SZ TR Ó TÚ RÁ K FE SZ TIV ÁL OK
DVÁ NY
SUMMER - AUTUMN / 20 19 SUMMER - AUTUMN / 20 19 2019
CUSTOM PUBLISHING
/ N YÁ R
– ŐSZ
2019
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Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.
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CONTENTS
CONTENTS BALATON AND AROUND 10 great things to do at Balaton this summer ..............................................14 North shore road trip for a long weekend .....................................................18 South shore road trip for a long weekend ....................................................20 7 great festivals on the north shore ................................................................ 22 5 great festivals on the south shore ................................................................ 24 7 great things to do with the kids .................................................................... 26 5 places for fine ice cream .................................................................................. 28 3 bakeries worth seeking out ............................................................................30 3 lively local markets ............................................................................................. 31 7 ravishing Rieslings to sample ..........................................................................32 7 great places after dark ...................................................................................... 34 7 promising new places worth investigating ............................................... 36 3 great sights at the gateway to Balaton ....................................................... 38 5 top tables and terraces at the gateway to Balaton ................................ 39
BALATONFÜRED & AROUND 7 top must-see attractions .................................................................................44 7 buildings that reveal key eras from history ..............................................46 EXPLAINER – Tihany’s hermit houses............................................................ 48 10 top dining destinations ..................................................................................50 5 cellars to try local wines .................................................................................. 52 5 irresistible confectioneries.............................................................................. 54 DISCOVER BALATON: BEACHES 7 great beach spots on the north shore .................................................. 58 5 great beach spots on the south shore .................................................60 7 free beaches around Balaton ..................................................................62
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CONTENTS
KÁLI-MEDENCE 7 unmissable attractions of Káli-medence ...................................................68 EXPLAINER – Fields of stone ............................................................................. 70 3 wine terraces to try top tipples ......................................................................72 7 restaurants worth investigating .................................................................... 74 INTERVIEW – restaurateur Kata Zakar............................................................ 76 DISCOVER BALATON: HIKING Top hill hikes around Káli-medence .......................................................80 Top hill hikes around Tapolcai-medence ..............................................82 Perfect panoramas from the Keszthely hills ........................................84
BADACSONY & AROUND 5 iconic buildings in Badacsony ........................................................................90 3 historic castles to explore ............................................................................... 92 10 great gastronomic experiences ...................................................................94 INTERVIEW – winemaker Bence Laposa .......................................................96 7 wine terraces worth a linger ..........................................................................98 EXPLAINER – Blue is the colour ......................................................................100 DISCOVER BALATON: BIKING 5 cycle routes with amazing panoramas .............................................104 10 best stops for rest and recreation ....................................................106
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CONTENTS
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ 7 splendid sights around Keszthely ................................................................ 112 7 top restaurants with prime views ............................................................... 114 5 places to find fine desserts ............................................................................ 116 5 extreme sports around Keszthely ............................................................... 118 5 great hidden sights .......................................................................................... 120 EXPLAINER – The Soviet who saved Festetics Palace ..............................122 DISCOVER BALATON: BEACH FOOD 7 great grilled fish outlets......................................................................... 126 7 brilliant beach-food spots ..................................................................... 128 5 top outlets for lovely lángos ................................................................ 130
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CONTENTS
BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR 5 sights that reveal local history..................................................................... 136 10 great places to eat ..........................................................................................138 INTERVIEW – chef Ádám Pohner................................................................... 140 3 spots to admire the north shore ................................................................. 142
SIÓFOK & ZAMÁRDI 5 attractions worth exploring .......................................................................... 148 EXPLAINER – Ferry across Balaton ................................................................ 150 5 great places to eat in Siófok ..........................................................................152 3 cool confectioneries .........................................................................................153 7 exciting activities for the whole family .................................................... 154
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USEFUL INFOR MATION
BALATON BY PLANE The only airport at Lake Balaton, Hévíz-Sármellék (hevizairport.com), is small, with a limited selection of summer flights connecting Hungary’s prime holiday destination with Berlin, Dresden, Düsseldorf, Erfurt, Frankfurt, Hamburg and Leipzig. Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km from the capital, about 125km from Siófok. There is no direct link from airport to Balaton by public transport. Outside adjoining Budapest terminals 2A or 2B, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to town, costing about 8,500 HUF/€26. Past the taxis, a bus stop serves the 100E, running every 10-20 minutes to Deák tér in town, 50min journey time. Buy your ticket (900 HUF/€2.80) from the machine alongside – the plane logo indicates which one to buy, credit cards accepted.
BALATON BY TRAIN The main stations in Budapest serving Balaton are Déli and Kelenföld, one at the southern end of red metro line M2, the other green M4. Setting off from Déli and calling at Kelenföld, regular trains run by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) take 1hr 20mins to Siófok (single 2,400 HUF/€7.45), nearly 2hrs to Balatonboglár (2,800 HUF/€8.70), and, changing at Balatonszentgyörgy, nearly 3hrs to Keszthely (3,700 HUF/€11.75). For the north shore, some journeys require a change at Székesfehérvár, others run direct to Balatonfüred (2hrs, 2,700 HUF/€8.40), Badacsony (2hrs 40mins, 3,400 HUF/€10.55) and resorts. 12
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USEFUL INFOR MATION
BALATON BY BUS Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provide direct services to destinations such as Keszthely (2hr 20mins, 3,700 HUF/€11.50) from Népliget, Budapest’s main bus terminal with its own station on blue metro line M3.
BALATON BY CAR The M7 motorway links Budapest with Balaton. There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (e-autopalyamatrica.hu/en) or at any petrol station. Minimum validity period is ten days (3,500 HUF/€10.75).
BALATON BY BOAT Balatoni Hajózás (en.balatonihajozas.hu) serves resorts with ships and ferries. The shortest journey between the south and north shores is Szántódrév to Tihanyrév, journey time 8mins, fare 700 HUF/€2.20).
BALATON BY BIKE Balaton is perfect for cyclists, with all kinds of routes, tours and trails. See balatonbike.hu/en. Cycle hire is possible all round the lake, with hotels and guesthouses a likely resource.
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BALATON & AROUND
THE BALATON REGION BADACSONY & AROUND (pg 86-101) KÁLI-MEDENCE & AROUND (pg 64-77) KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ (pg 108-123)
BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR (pg 132-143) ton Bala
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BALATON & AROUND
GATEWAY TO LAKE BALATON BALATONFÜRED & AROUND (pg 40-55)
n o t a al
B
SIÓFOK & ZAMÁRDI (pg 144-155)
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BALATON & AROUND
10 great things TO DO AT BALATON THIS SUMMER
Try a new sport From SUPping and sailing to hiking and caving, Europe’s biggest lake is the best place to venture into the great outdoors and try a new sport.
Relax at a tranquil beach
On summer days, popular lidos fill to the brim, but lesser-known beaches at Sajkod, Pálköve and Balatonederics can provide away-from-it-all relaxation. 16
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BALATON & AROUND
Cool down with fine ice cream
At award-winning ice-cream parlours – the café at Szigliget Castle, Bergmann in Füred, Bringatanya in Gyenesdiás and Florida in Máriafürdő – flavours are worth the wait in line.
Grab some lavender Fragrant lavender fields stretch all around Lake Balaton in summer and you’re free to pick your own at many places. Kőröshegy is worth it for the view alone.
Cycle round the lake Balaton is ringed by 200 kilometres of scenic cycle routes with great rest stops in between. Nearby Kálimedence is an especially charming area to explore on two wheels.
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BALATON & AROUND
Climb a hill
The strange geological formations of Szent György hill, Csobánc and Hegyestű are part of Balaton’s natural heritage – and a relatively easy climb for beginners.
Explore cultural history Many of Hungary’s most illustrious writers, poets and actors had links with Lake Balaton. Visit their villas and admire their museums as you take a tour of discovery.
Let loose at a music festival
From Sean Paul at Balaton Sound to Bastille at Strand Festival, not to mention nearly 100 electronica DJs at B.My.Lake, star acts will be rocking the waterside this summer.
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BALATON & AROUND
Sip top local wines
Balaton is known for its highquality wines – try a Riesling from Csopak, Kéknyelű from Badacsony or a Cserszegi Fűszeres by way of intoxicating introduction.
Take in an amazing panorama
A hike can provide the best start or most memorable end to the day, with sweeping views from a lookout tower or hilltop. Why not throw in a picnic, too?
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BALATON & AROUND
Road Trip
NORTH SHORE ROAD TRIP FOR A LONG WEEKEND
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BALATON & AROUND
FRIDAY: Start the day with a hearty breakfast at Veganeeta in Balatonalmádi. From there, it’s a short hop to Füred, where you can hire a sailboat near the Tagore Promenade. In the afternoon, relax at Neked Főztem, a restaurant in an up-andcoming area of town, then enjoy a lively evening along Blaha Lujza utca, with its lively drinking spots.
SATURDAY: Make for Kálimedence in the morning and climb Kopasz hill. Afterwards, reward yourself by exploring the gastro scene, having lunch at Zománc, then ice cream at Kő fagyi? before taking a dip at the lido in Pálköve. End the day with a couple of cooling spritzers at Káli-kapocs or Pegazus.
SUNDAY: Enjoy a long walk at the Folly Arboretum in Badacsonyörs, before an easy skip to the prettiest wine terrace in the area at Csendes Dűlő. From there, pop into Keszthely and stroll around the renovated Festetics Palace and its park. Say goodbye to the weekend with a sunset dinner at Csóka Fészek. 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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BALATON & AROUND
Road Trip
SOUTH SHORE ROAD TRIP FOR A LONG WEEKEND
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BALATON & AROUND
FRIDAY: Start south west of the lake at Kis-Balaton and explore the area’s rich natural attractions. Then hop on the narrow-gauge train at Balatonfenyves to take in more greenery. End the day with a stylish dinner at the Kristinus Gasztro Műhely in Kéthely.
SATURDAY: To relax after yesterday’s activities, head to Buborék beach in Balatonboglár, then enjoy a classic Italian dish at the Pavilon restaurant. After a little siesta, have another swim and get ready to sample a few wines in the cellars of Kishegy.
SUNDAY: Tuck into a late breakfast at the Tiki Beach bistro, then get active at the Zamárdi Adventure Park. Afterwards, there’s time for a quick dip at one of the many free beaches in the area. End the weekend with a piscine dish at Siófok’s Fish House.
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VeszprémFest
BALATON & AROUND
7 GREAT FESTIVALS ON THE NORTH SHORE EVERNESS FESTIVAL Yoga, spirituality, workshops and spontaneous dancing and drumming on the waterside – if partying isn’t enough, you can find yourself amid gurus at this campsite in Alsóörs. 19-24 June. Alsóörs. evernessfestival.hu VESZPRÉMFEST Caro Emerald takes you back to the era of ballroom jazz, UB40 evoke their reggae past and singer-songwriter Katie Melua soothes your soul at VeszprémFest. 10-13 July. Veszprém. veszpremfest.hu KLASSZ A PARTON This series of concerts features the biggest names in classical music as well as up-and-coming young talent at the prettiest squares and churches around Balaton. 12 July-15 Sept. klasszaparton.hu 24
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BALATON & AROUND
VESZPRÉM STREET MUSIC This is one of the funkiest free festivals in Hungary, where musicians from all over the world play on every corner of Veszprém’s city centre for three days. 17-20 July. Veszprém. utcazene.hu VALLEY OF ARTS Concerts, film screenings and theatrical performances are staged, complete with craft markets, for ten days in the small community of Kapolcs and nearby hamlets. 19-28 July. Kapolcs, Taliándörögd, Vigántpetend. muveszetekvolgye.hu AUER FESTIVAL The Mendelssohn Chamber Band bring top-quality artists to the music halls of Veszprém, musicians who normally play the biggest classical venues in the world. 30 July-4 Aug. Veszprém. auerfesztival.hu
Paloznak Jazz Picnic
PALOZNAK JAZZ PICNIC Three days of jazz, wine and gastronomy at Paloznak. This year you can listen to Rick Astley, The Jacksons and Maceo Parker from your picnic blanket. 1-3 Aug. Paloznak. jazzpiknik.hu
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Balaton Sound (Rockstar Photographers)
BALATON & AROUND
5 GREAT FESTIVALS ON THE SOUTH SHORE KULTKIKÖTŐ Within the framework of Kultkikötő, theatre shows and concerts fill the open-air stages of Balatonföldvár, Balatonfenyves and Balatonboglár over the warmer months. May-Aug. kultkikoto.hu BALATON SOUND On the grassy lakefront at Zamárdi, this sunsplashed celebration features Armin Van Buuren, The Chainsmokers, Future, G-Eazy, Tiësto, Paul Kalkbrenner and Rudimental. 3-7 July. Zamárdi. balatonsound.hu SAMSARA This is the realm of neo hippies, a psychedelic meet-up for fans of yoga, music, dance and nature, held in the privately owned Töreki forest near Siófok. 3-11 Aug. Siófok-Töreki. samsarafestival.eu 26
WE LOVE BALATON
Samsara
BALATON & AROUND
STRAND FESTIVAL Numerous international headliners take the stage at this beachside festival, including Jason Derulo, Bastille and John Newman, alongside many local performers. 20-25 Aug. Zamárdi. strandfesztival.com
Strand Festival (Kata Major / Strand Festival)
B.MY.LAKE Sweeping Balaton views serve as the backdrop as 100 DJs spin epic electronica amid sprawling greenery. Star names include Sven Väth, Adam Beyer and Pan-Pot. 21-24 Aug. Zamárdi. bmylake.hu
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Veszprém Zoo
BALATON & AROUND
7 GREAT THINGS TO DO WITH THE KIDS TAPOLCA CAVE LAKE Perfect for a rainy day, this underground cave system is best explored in little rowboats. Climbing walls and 3D cinema, too. Book online to beat the queues. Tapolca, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 3. bfnp.hu/hu/tapolcai-tavasbarlang-latogatokozpont PANNON CSILLAGDA Here you can gaze at the sky through hyper-modern telescopes, try landing on the Moon, watch the Solar System in an ultra-HD cinema, touch a meteorite and be catapulted. Bakonybél, Szent Gellért tér 9. csillagda.net BALATONBOGLÁR ADVENTURE PARK AND BOBSLEIGH A 580-metre-long bobsleigh with bumps and sharp turns, ziplines and a ten-metre climbing wall boost your adrenaline levels at this major family attraction. Balatonboglár, Kilátó utca 8. balatonboglarbob.hu 28
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BALATON & AROUND
ZOBORI ÉLMÉNYPARK Countless slippery slides, a VR car race and a new 400-metre-long rollercoaster ride should keep the children happy all day long at this varied entertainment park. Zalaszabar. zobori.hu VESZPRÉM ZOO From the Africa Savannah playground to the Dino Park, there’s always plenty to see and do at Veszprém Zoo. There are new baboons and pink spoonbills to admire. Veszprém, Kittenberger Kálmán utca 17. veszpzoo.hu FESTETICS IMRE ANIMAL PARK This lesser-known menagerie is home to domestic and wild animals, including racka sheep and mouflons. The petting zoo is always a hit and there’s a playground, too. Keszthely. facebook.com/FesteticsAllatpark
Zobori Élménypark
DIÁS PLAY BEACH A firm family favourite, this beach has long been among Balaton’s best. A huge slide, a playground, a paddling bay, nappy change, a doctor on call and even WiFi. Gyenesdiás, Strand utca 3. gyenesdias.info.hu/strandok/diasi-jatekstrand
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Bringatanya
BALATON & AROUND
5 PLACES FOR FINE ICE CREAM VÁR KÁVÉZÓ This vintage-style hangout scoops frosty salty caramel and sea buckthorns, all created from high-quality ingredients and free of artificial additives. Szigliget, Kisfaludy utca 26. facebook.com/ SzigligetiFagylaltozo BRINGATANYA Queues for the award-winning frosty treats of the Somogyi family are lengthy even on rainy days. One of their creations was selected as Ice Cream of the Year in 2018. Gyenesdiás, Madách utca 45. facebook.com/Bringatanya KŐ FAGYI? The owners of Kő Fagyi? were apprentices of Italian masters, and now work with farm milk and are generous with the fruit. Their rosé ice-cream is a must! Mindszentkálla, Petőfi Sándor utca 31 30
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Kő Fagyi?
BALATON & AROUND
FLORIDA FAGYIZÓ The south shore’s legendary spot draws lengthy queues to sample a wide assortment of gelato made with ingredients all the way from Italy. Balatonmáriafürdő, Rákóczi út 85. facebook.com/floridafagyizo
Vár Kávézó
BERGMANN CONFECTIONERY Bergmann’s classic Hungarian delicacies and tasty ice creams are best enjoyed on the elegant terrace. Make sure to try the Mozart ice cream, a cherry-flavoured delight. Balatonfüred, Petőfi Sándor utca 64. bergmanncukraszda.hu
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Búzalelke Pékség
BALATON & AROUND
3 BAKERIES WORTH SEEKING OUT BÚZALELKE PÉKSÉG On the quieter side of Szent György hill, Bea Kovács offers her special breads, with seeds, vegetables, fruit and chocolate. On Sundays, find them at Káptalantóti market. Kisapáti, Bem apó utca 11. facebook.com/buzalelke PÉKLÁNY A success story involving a start-up couple, this little bakery is a must in Füred, where the early bird gets the strawberrymascarpone croissant or raspberry mille feuille. Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 3-5. facebook.com/Peklany.Pekseg RÁCZ PÉKSÉG This classic family bakery close to the main road stocks spelt-wheat and rye breads and cakes. Their sandwich selection is the dream of every hungry traveller. Balatonkeresztúr, Iskola utca 23. facebook.com/raczpek
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BALATON & AROUND
3 LIVELY LOCAL MARKETS LILIOMKERT PIAC This is the queen of farmer’s markets, where homemade cheeses, artisanal produce, freshly made dishes and additive-free sweets all feature. Arrive by 8am to beat the crowds. Káptalantóti, Petőfi utca. liliomkert.lapunk.hu TIHANYI PIAC PLACC This market and community space by the ferry is not only where you’ll find various local produce, but also the Balcsi Bistro, operating a trustworthy kitchen. Tihany, Tihany-rév. facebook.com/piacplacc
Fonyódi Piac
FONYÓDI PIAC At the largest flea market on the south shore, you can rub shoulders with savvy locals while browsing all kinds of treasures and trinkets. Runs Wednesdays and Saturdays. Fonyód, Gáz utca. fonyod.hu/hu/hasznos-informaciok/piac
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BALATON & AROUND
7 RAVISHING RIESLINGS TO SAMPLE SABAR WINE HOUSE - OLASZRIZLING BIRTOKBOR 2017 Grapes harvested from three different soils within the Kรกptalantรณti region create this rounded, balanced Riesling, whose residual sugars highlight its fruit content. sabar.hu SZENT DONร T ESTATE - CSOPAK HEGYBOR 2018 A different side of Riesling, hiding fragrance and taste to offer a clean, balanced elegance. One for connoisseurs, it showcases Csopak more than the variety itself. szentdonat.hu FOLLY ARBORETUM AND WINERY BADACSONYI OLASZRIZLING 2017 In the shade of century-old trees on Kisรถrsi hill, this meets your Badacsony expectations, vibrant, succulent, citrusy and peachy, with a slightly sour almond finish. follyarboretum.hu/boraszat
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BALATON & AROUND
VILLA TOLNAY - CSOBÁNCZ OLASZRIZLING 2017 The selected Olaszrizling of the cellar, from a modest yield and spontaneous fermentation. Residual sugars bring out its fruity flavours, so worth setting aside for later. villatolnay.hu BUJDOSÓ CELLAR - BALATONBOR 2018 The Bujdosós are real Balaton lovers – sailing is another passion, hence the logo. BalatonBor is a lightly tuned Riesling where fruits dominate alongside freshness. bujdoso.com HUJBER CELLAR - BALATONBOR 2018 This has grown from a family heritage into an 18-hectare estate in Balatonboglár. Their BalatonBor is a constant companion, with dinner or as a spritzer in the sizzling sun. facebook.com/hujber.pinceszet UJVÁRI - OLASZRIZLING 2017 This wine matured in a barrel from 1943 is made all the more special by its perfect balance of white fruit, pear and flowers that create a memorable taste experience. facebook.com/Ujvaribros 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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Matróz
BALATON & AROUND
7 GREAT PLACES AFTER DARK KREDENC This bar belongs to András Dobai, whose knowledge of local wines is second to none. Bistro dishes pair with top tipples, with a nice buzz until 10pm, 11.30pm at weekends. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 7. kredencborbisztro.hu MATRÓZ Those after a night out in the centre of Balatonfüred can find a lively dance party at Matróz. As its motto says, ‘Curse like a sailor, drink like a pirate!’. Balatonfüred, Écsy László utca 5. facebook.com/matrozbalatonfured KÁLI-KAPOCS At this classic village pub, Hungarian hip-hop act Punnany Massif hold their semi-secret acoustic concert every August. Otherwise attracts locals of all stripes. Mindszentkálla, Petőfi Sándor utca 11 36
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BALATON & AROUND
PEGAZUS Chilled Pegazus is at the heart of the Szentbékkálla art scene and features DJ sets, concerts, exhibitions, performances and of course, food, booze and parties. Szentbékkálla, Kossuth Lajos utca 39. pgzs.hu BÁRMIKOR Its name meaning ‘any time’, this pub at Wesselényi beach is great for a frosty fröccs during the day, and more serious imbibing and partying at night. Balatonalmádi, Szent István sétány 4-6. facebook.com/barmikorbar PLÁZS SIÓFOK This classic beach club is a quintessential part of the Siófok party scene, where the swimsuit-clad dance in the sand under starry skies. Live music also features. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 3. plazssiofok.hu
Kredenc
PUB-LIK This sizeable place with a huge terrace is a year-round point of reference for partying on the southern shore. In summer, it packs with funseekers from far and wide. Balatonföldvár, Rákóczi Ferenc utca 13. pub-lik.hu
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BALATON & AROUND
7 PROMISING NEW PLACES WORTH INVESTIGATING MURCI Besides examples from the Bencze Estate from Szent György Hill, foreign bottles also feature at Hungary’s first natural wine bar. DJs spin discs amid the postcard panorama. Hegymagas. facebook.com/ murciwinebar BORATÓRIUM WINE BAR This new wine bar does not limit its remit to this region alone, but offers the best from across Hungary, and foreign labels too. Tastings and slam poetry also feature. Keszthely, Frech Miklós utca 2-4. boratorium.hu
Boratórium Wine Bar
HABLEÁNY From June, this former landmark will be the centre of well known Laposa family estate, a winery and gastronomic space that will also host interactive tours. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 26. facebook.com/hableanybadacsony
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Tölgyes Kúria
BALATON & AROUND
SZÁLKA BISZTRÓ At this labour of love recently conceived by chef Csongor Horváth of Neked Főztem fame, a Hungarian menu will be 80% dominated by freshwater fish dishes. Aszófő, Balaton utca 12. facebook.com/szalkabisztroaszofo KÁLI-KAPOCS ABC This new store opened alongside the popular bar of the same name in Mindszentkálla is not a classic village shop, but offers fresh produce from the region. Mindszentkálla, Petőfi Sándor utca 11 ZELNA BORBÁR ÉS VINOTÉKA From July and then year-round, the Zelna team sets up in the centre of Füred to offer weekend brunch tapas and the winery’s own bottles, including Furmint champagne. Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca. zelna.hu TÖLGYES KÚRIA This revamped, 120-year-old villa, surrounded by ancient trees, hosts romantic meals and weddings. Traditional Hungarian dishes are created with modern kitchen technology. Káptalantóti, Riza. tolgyeskuria.hu 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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Fűzfő Leisure Park
BALATON & AROUND
3 GREAT SIGHTS AT THE GATEWAY TO BALATON FŰZFŐ LEISURE PARK Gliding on a bobsleigh, climbing at an adventure park or shooting around a paintball pitch – there’s plenty to fill your day here. Balatonfűzfő, Uszodai utca 2. serpakalandpark.hu, balatonibob.hu, maximpaintball.hu/balatonfuzfo KENESE HIGH BANK The silt wall above Balatonkenese attracts nature aficionados seeking its crambe plant, unique in Central Europe, while everyone can enjoy the scenic lookout atop Soós hill. Balatonkenese, Tátorján sétány VÖRÖSBERÉNY FORTRESS CHURCH There’s need to go all the way to Transylvania to admire an intriguing fortress church. This one in Vörösberény now serves the Reformed Church in Hungary. Balatonalmádi, Veszprémi út 105 40
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BALATON & AROUND
5 TOP TABLES AND TERRACES AT THE GATEWAY TO BALATON LAVENDER TERASZ Diners may choose from a well conceived menu while surrounded by nature, alongside a sizeable pond in the garden. Steaks, including Wagyu and Omaha, a speciality. Balatonvilágos, Dózsa György út 75. lavenderterasz.hu PÖRC Meat is the focus at this Kenese bistro, where a deli also offers the best selection of salamis and sausages in the region. Local cheeses and crusty bread also feature. Balatonkenese, Széchenyi út 1. facebook.com/porcbisztroesdelikat KENESE BISTRO Proclaiming itself to be ‘more than a tavern’, this bistro tucked in from the shore offers an eclectic selection thanks to a top chef and quality ingredients. Balatonkenese, Balatoni út 42. facebook.com/kenesebistro VEGANEETA HOME This sought-after vegetarian restaurant near Balatonalmádi station originated from Anita Árvai’s popular blog. Try their daily changing lunch special, always a surprise. Balatonalmádi, Baross Gábor utca 2B. facebook.com/ veganhomeinbalatonalmadi THE RUSTY COFFEE BOX Run by the people behind Budapest’s coveted My Little Melbourne, this converted container serves artisanal java, sipped while overlooking Lake Balaton in all its glory. Balatonakarattya, Kisfaludy sétány. facebook.com/ therustycoffeebox 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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BALATONFÜRED & AROUND The historic and gastronomic hub of the north shore, Balatonfüred, Tihany and inland Veszprém still exude a certain elegance from a bygone era. With the wineries of Csopak close by, choose your particular Olaszrizling vintage as you take in the stunning panorama.
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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
VILLA ROMANA
TAGORE PROMENADE
TIHANYI LAVENDER APÁTSÁG FARMS
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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
VASZARY VILLA
TIHANY ABBEY
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Tamás Hill Cross
BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
7 TOP MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS VESZPRÉM CASTLE DISTRICT This cobblestoned area is the city’s cultural centre with a basilica, a palace, a fire tower and, of course, a castle to explore. Guides take walking tours in English. Veszprém, Vár utca. veszpreminfo.hu/record/seta-a-varban TIHANY ABBEY The symbol of Tihany is this abbey, providing a perfect panorama over Balaton. The oldest words written in the Hungarian language are in its founding charter, dated 1055. Tihany, I András tér 1. tihanyiapatsag.hu TAGORE PROMENADE Buzzing in summer, the boardwalk is named after the notable Indian poet who visited in 1926, and started the tradition of tree-planting along this lakeside stretch. Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány. turizmus.balatonfured.hu 46
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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
TAMÁS HILL CROSS Climb steep sets of steps in sturdy shoes to reach this cross – illuminated at night – and take in the most picturesque panorama of Füred and Lake Balaton beyond. Balatonfüred, Kilátó utca. turizmus.balatonfured.hu KISERDŐ Landscaped as an ‘English garden’ in 1790, Kiserdő features lots of trees, a street workout spot, playgrounds, tennis courts and the ruins of a former stone theatre. Balatonfüred, Kiserdő LAKE KÜLSŐ David Attenborough might appreciate this little lake lying in a crater, part of an ancient volcano, surrounded by lavender fields, and undisturbed flora and fauna. Tihany. tihany.hu/index.php/ hu/latnivalok/termeszet
Tihany Abbey
ÖRVÉNYES WATERMILL Its predecessor first mentioned in 1211, the mill’s wheel has been dutifully spinning since 1800. If you want to know how, a museum is nearby. Örvényes, Szent Imre utca 1
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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
7 BUILDINGS THAT REVEAL KEY ERAS FROM HISTORY ROMAN - VILLA ROMANA BALÁCA This is what a villa in Balaton must have looked like when mosaics, not concrete, adorned the floor. An interactive exhibition presents how Romans lived here. Nemesvámos-Baláca, külterület. balaca.hu EARLY MIDDLE AGES - HERMIT HOUSES Monks were already living in caves carved into rocks in the 11th century. A few have survived today and can be easily reached after a short walk. Tihany, Óvár-hegy
Mór Jókai Memorial House
MIDDLE AGES - SZENT MIHÁLY CHURCH This Romanesque-style church dates back to the Árpád era, though the ruins that were left probably owe their appearance to the invading Turks. Balatonfüred, Régitemető utca. turizmus.balatonfured.hu/latnivalok/szt-mihalypapsoka-templom-romjai
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Szent Mihály Church
BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
BAROQUE - SZALÉZIÁNUM One of the most prominent buildings of the Baroque era today serves as the visitor centre for the Veszprém Archdiocese. A herb garden and candle-making also feature. Veszprém, Vár utca 31. szalezianum.hu 19 TH CENTURY - ARÁCS VILLAGE Upper Arács is an example of how Balatonfüred would have looked before the ever-growing tourist industry reshaped the cityscape. Balatonfüred-Balatonarács. turizmus.balatonfured.hu/latnivalok/aracsi-nephaz LATE 19 TH CENTURY - MÓR JÓKAI MEMORIAL HOUSE Prominent Hungarian poet and writer Mór Jókai spent several summers in this villa, a perfect example of 19th-century architecture. Balatonfüred, Honvéd utca 1. kultura.balatonfured.hu/jokai-mor-emlekhaz MODERN - HOTEL ANNABELLA The first luxurious hotel of the Socialist era at Balaton was built in 1968. The architect, Margit Pázmándi, was awarded the prestigious Ybl Prize for her plans. Balatonfüred, Deák Ferenc utca 25 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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TIHANY’S HERMIT HOUSES The 1055 marriage of King András I to a lady from Kiev brought Greek Orthodox monks from the Byzantine Empire to Hungary, all accommodated in Tihany. Some of them led a puritanical life in caves carved into the tuff walls of Óvár Hill, while a Catholic Benedictine abbey – where András I was later buried – stood on top. These people lived together for centuries, even though the Great Schism of 1054 had broken the communion between what are now the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox Churches. The hermit houses were abandoned by the 14th century and many subsequently collapsed. Today, visitors can explore three of them, following a signposted curving road from the marina. One of them hides a shrine, a stone altar and a tomb.
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Szent Donát Borkúria
BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
10 TOP DINING DESTINATIONS SZENT DONÁT BORKÚRIA The former Márga Bistro offers seasonal specialities and reimagined Hungarian dishes, best enjoyed on a terrace that offers a picturesque panorama. Csopak, Szitahegyi út 28. szentdonat.hu/bisztro BISTRO SPARHELT Minimalist design and a concise menu complement special seasonal dishes, served at one of Balaton’s most popular hostelries. Ingredients sourced locally. Balatonfüred, Szent István tér 7. sparheltbistro.hu NEKED FŐZTEM-BALATONFÜRED Having started out as a gastro pub in Zánka, Neked Főztem now features a small menu and an elegant atmosphere, tucked in from the Füred waterfront. Balatonfüred, Aranyhíd sétány 8. facebook.com/ nekedfoztembalatonfured 52
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BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
SZOMSZÉD KERTJE ‘Next Door’s Garden’ at the top of Csopak features high-quality Hungarian dishes. On occasion, though, the owner might travel to Latin America for recipes. Csopak, Kossuth utca 97. facebook.com/szomszedkertje MORZSA BISZTRÓ Found on Füred’s bohemian main street of Blaha, this bistro offers excellent dishes and contains an atmospheric pub upstairs, with its own little terrace. Balatonfüred, Blaha Lujza utca 9. facebook.com/morzsabisztro SÁFRÁNKERT VENDÉGLŐ Sourcing seasonal ingredients, this popular dining destination serves original combinations such as Hungary’s prized pig, mangalica, with Dijon mustard. Paloznak, Fő utca 1. homolapinceszet.hu/safrankert-vendeglo PETRÁNYI PINCE Nestled amid the bucolic Csopak hillside, this welcoming winery offers an unmatched panorama, great tipples and dishes fashioned from Petrányi family recipes. Csopak, Homokbánya utca 31. petranyipince.hu PLAGE 18 Vamos a la… well, not exactly the playa, but this eatery serves quality bistro food – steak, fish, goats’ cheese – which you can enjoy from a lakeside deckchair. Tihany, Kenderföld út 18. plage18.hu VÍGMOLNÁR CSÁRDA Local treats are served with a twist at Vígmolnár, whose whitewashed walls, thatched roof and beehive oven offer a fairytale setting for the full rustic experience. Csopak, Kőkorsó utca 1. vigmolnarcsarda.hu SZŐLŐSI KOCSMA This one really is a pub rather than a restaurant with a few village-style dishes, but their stuffed cabbage is superb. Run by the main owner of Budapest’s Bortársaság. Balatonszőlős, Fő utca 10 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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5 CELLARS TO TRY LOCAL WINES FIGULA WINERY This family winery offers both lighter and fullbodied wine variations. If you don’t fancy trekking to their estate, you can find their bar beside the yacht harbour. Balatonfüred, Csárda utca 26. figula.hu SÖPTEI CELLAR AND RESTAURANT Two brothers lead this fifthgeneration family cellar, Zsolt responsible for the award-winning Rieslings, Róbert for the excellent seasonal cuisine. Csopak, Istenfia utca 5. sopteipince.hu
Szent Donát Birtok
SZENT DONÁT BIRTOK Riesling, Furmint and Kékfrankos grapes are bottled at this wine cellar in Csopak. Some of their labels have been selected by Michelin-starred restaurants abroad. Csopak, Szitahegyi út 28. szentdonat.hu
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Homola Winery
BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
HOMOLA WINERY This wine terrace on top of Paloznak is worth the climb not only for the great reds, whites and rosés on offer, but for the perfect panorama and occasional DJ music. Paloznak, Vincellér utca. homolapinceszet.hu
Jásdi Wine Terrace
JÁSDI WINE TERRACE Sipping wine on this terrace while enjoying the view over Balaton’s entire eastern basin is something else. Serrano ham and Bakonyi goats’ cheese may accompany. Csopak, Arany János utca 3. jasdipince.hu
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Arácsi Confectionery
BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
5 IRRESISTIBLE CONFECTIONERIES ARÁCSI CONFECTIONERY The sweet and savoury treats at this friendly confectionery sell out fast, so be sure to try the heavenly homemade krémes cream cake, and the sweet cottage-cheese one. Balatonfüred, Arácsi út 132. aracsicukraszda.hu BERGMANN CONFECTIONERY The distinguished Bergmann confectionery dynasty operates two places in Balatonfüred, both offering tasty traditional delights. Balatonfüred, Zsigmond utca 1/ Petőfi Sándor utca 64. bergmanncukraszda.hu NAGYI KERTJE TEA HOUSE Having started out as a tea house, this sweet place now lays on lunches, too. The lovely terrace and Gergely Hortobágyi’s desserts are the biggest attraction. Aszófő, Remete utca 2. nagyikertjeteahaz.hu 56
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Apátsági Rege Confectionery
BALATONFÜR ED & AROUND
KAROLINA COFFEEHOUSE The uncrowned queen of confectionery on the north shore offers huge homemade desserts to take away or to enjoy on the spot. The name comes from the revered granny. Balatonfüred, Zákonyi Ferenc utca 4. karolina.hu
Nagyi Kertje Tea House
APÁTSÁGI REGE CONFECTIONERY A walnut-lime flower honey cake and a cup of herbal tea are great accompaniments for a convivial afternoon tea in Tihany. The wonderful view does the rest. Tihany, Kossuth Lajos utca 22. facebook.com/apatsagirege
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DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
Beaches Grassy sunbathing areas, twisting promenades, funky playgrounds, sport courts and street workout spots – in recent years, Balaton lidos have been modernised considerably. On the south shore, expect shallow water and picturesque views of the hills, while on the north, the water is deeper, and beaches are backdropped by the Balaton highlands. Break out the blow-up alligators – here are our favourite lidos, including free beaches, too.
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Vonyarcvashegy Lido
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
7 GREAT BEACH SPOTS ON THE NORTH SHORE ESTERHÁZY BEACH This well kept lakeside park by Füred’s famed Tagore Promenade provides a splendid panorama over Tihany. There’s a free beach library, too. Balatonfüred, Tagore sétány. balatonfuredistrandok.hu/eszterhazy.html RÉVFÜLÖP SZIGETI BEACH This beach is nearly a century old, with many towering trees, a playground, a street volleyball court and a retro feel. Night swimming is the thing to do. Révfülöp, Sziget utca 1. revfulop.hu/magyar/balaton-szigeti-strand-revfulop SZIGLIGET BEACH This is one of the prettiest and most popular lidos on the north shore. There’s a little beach for kids and plenty of racks for cyclists to leave their bikes. Szigliget, Soponyai út. 60
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DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
VONYARCVASHEGY LIDO Wakeboarding, water skiing, a huge slide, a fitness park and seven hectares of greenery – this is definitely one of the best beaches in the area for outdoor activities. Vonyarcvashegy, Fürdő utca 1. vonyarcvashegy.hu/strand SAJKOD BEACH This quiet getaway lies west of the Tihany peninsula, complete with food stalls. Reward your hike on a marked trail or your picturesque bike ride with a refreshing swim. Tihany-Sajkod, Sajkodi sor 22. facebook.com/sajkodstrand FÖVENYESI BEACH This one is tranquil and spacious with huge trees offering shade from the unforgiving sun. New-wave beach treats provide extra attraction. Balatonudvari-Fövenyes, end of Strand utca
Révfülöp Szigeti Beach
PÁLKÖVE BEACH This hidden gem between Balatonrendes and Révfülöp feels like a hangover from a bygone era. In fact, time seems to have stopped completely – but in a good way. Kővágóörs-Pálköve, Pálkövei utca
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Fonyód Panorama Beach
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
5 GREAT BEACH SPOTS ON THE SOUTH SHORE LELLE NAPHÉNY BEACH This one has everything you need: a lot of sand, playgrounds and three fun pools with a sauna house and a huge slide. Balatonlelle, Napospart utca 3. facebook.com/napfenystrand SIÓFOK NAGYSTRAND This is the most popular beach in the country, drawing everyone from Budapest down for the weekend. Playgrounds, a sandy beach and shallow water. Siófok, Petőfi sétány 3. facebook.com/siofokinagystrand BALATONFÖLDVÁR KELET BEACH Plenty of shade and a perfect panorama of Tihany. You can also rent a board and surf the waves from the nearby Viharsarok Sailing Centre. Balatonföldvár, Somogyi Béla utca. balatonfoldvar.info.hu/hu/vizes-kikapcsolodashoz/ balatonfoldvar-keleti-strand 62
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Fonyód Panorama Beach
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
FONYÓD PANORAMA BEACH This long sandy beach has a pirate ship for a playground, sunbathing spots and views of Badacsony and the hills. Many consider the north shore to be prettiest from here. Fonyód, Fürdő utca. fonyodert.hu/strandok
Balatonmáriafürdő
BALATONMÁRIAFÜRDŐ KÖZPONT BEACH This vast green area is great for beach activities like football, streetball and beach volleyball. The retro paddleboats are a must! Balatonmáriafürdő, Gróf Széchenyi Imre tér 9. balatonmariafurdo.hu/strandok
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Siófoki Aranypart
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
7 FREE BEACHES AROUND BALATON GÖDRÖS FREE BEACH Anyone can put a towel down on the long and narrow concrete path right by the water here. Modest buffets take care of cravings. Tihany, Lepkesor ÖRVÉNYES PLATÁN BEACH This hidden family-friendly beach offers sports courts and slides that keep the kids busy. There’s plenty of shade thanks to the towering plane trees. Örvényes, Fürdő utca ZAMÁRDI NAGYSTRAND Home of the Balaton Sound Festival, this pleasant beach offers enough shade, buffets and a pretty panorama. Perfect for running, biking or a stroll along the waterfront. Zamárdi, Margó Ede sétány. zamardi.hu/nagystrand SIÓFOKI ARANYPART This one is popular all summer long. A four-kilometre-long grassy area serves as a free beach, while bars, restaurants and little shops line the main promenade nearby. Siófok 64
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DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC HES
BALATONBOGLÁR PLATÁN BEACH Playgrounds, buffets and sports courts fill out the expansive green space. Free admission, but you’ll have to pay extra for the fun pools of Buborék spa. Balatonboglár, Platán tér 1 FONYÓD DOG BEACH A huge paradise for furry friends. There’s a dock, a toilet, bins and enough grass to run around all day. A plunge together here with your four-legged friend is ideal. Fonyód, Vitorlás utca. facebook.com/kutyasstrand
Gödrös Free Beach
BALATONFENYVES BEACH Those after a bit more activity by day can enjoy beach volleyball, surfing or a game of basketball in the water here. Balatonfenyves, Balatonpart utca
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KĂ LI-MEDENCE The beautiful landscapes of KĂĄli-medence have attracted many to set up their own eateries, wineries and artisanal outlets. The produce is as fresh as can be, the wine mineral-rich. This is a great destination for breakfasts, small museums and fairytale farms, as well as exploring the strange local geology.
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KÁLI-MEDENCE
SZENTBÉKKÁLLA, STONE FIELD
TÓTI HILL
SALFÖLD
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KÁLI-MEDENCE
HEGYESTŰ
DÖRGICSE CHURCH RUINS
LAKE KORNYI
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Human Comedy Statues
KÁLI-MEDENCE
7 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS OF KÁLI-MEDENCE SZENTBÉKKÁLLA STONE FIELD Among the valuable geological remains from the ancient Pannonian Sea, huge examples are scattered around here, including one that rocks to and fro when you stand on it. Szentbékkálla, on the dirt road by the cemetery. ingoko.hu SALFÖLD PAULINE MONASTERY The forest near Salföld hid the flourishing monastery and church of Pauline monks for centuries. Today, it is one of the prettiest medieval ruins in the Carpathian Basin. Salföld, on a signposted dirt road HUMAN COMEDY STATUES Four strange statues created from steel tubing and limestone by Imre Veszprémi watch over Káli-medence from a hill by Lake Kornyi. Kővágóörs, by the Köveskál road 70
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KÁLI-MEDENCE
VELÉTE PALACE RUINS The stone ruins of a 14th-century Gothic palace built by the Veszprém bishops stand north of Szentbékkálla on top of the Veléte Hill. The tower served secular purposes. Szentbékkálla, left of the cemetery SÓSTÓKÁL CHURCH RUINS The north wall and shrine of this 13thcentury Romanesque church are all that remain among these ruins, surrounded by a huge green clearing. Kővágóörs, towards Köveskál TÖTTÖSKÁL CHURCH RUINS Töttöskál village, built 1,100 years ago, was destroyed by the Ottomans. These ruins are now the only proof that it ever existed. Look out for shooting stars. Szentbékkálla, after the cross over the stone bridge
Töttöskál Church Ruins
DÖRGICSE CHURCH RUINS Dörgicse once consisted of three villages and three churches, today all in ruins: St Peter’s with the mystical past, basalt-built Kis-Dörgicse, and tall Alsó-Dörgicse. Dörgicse, Fő utca, Temetői utca, Diófa utca
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FIELDS OF STONE Unusual stone fields stretch all the way from Salföld to Kővágóörs. These geological structures surfaced from the ancient Pannonian Sea that once covered most of Central Europe, and were bizarrely shaped by the wind. The prettiest formation is at Szentbékkálla. There, a gigantic feature of rocks and weirdly-shaped stones moves to and fro if you stand on it. Naturally, this is a favourite activity for anyone who visits. Ingókő stones are pieces of hard rock that natural external forces cannot damage, and only a small part of them touches the ground. As time passes, their position becomes less and less stable. This is what makes the ingókő in Szentbékkálla so special – it moves slightly, but its standing is fixed.
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Sabar-dűlő Wine House
KÁLI-MEDENCE
3 WINE TERRACES TO TRY TOP TIPPLES PÁLFFY WINE TERRACE This family winery occupies an expansive 18 hectares, where you can wine and dine on fine bites on the panoramic terrace while watching cyclists gliding by. Köveskál, Fő út 40. palffypince.hu KÁLI KÖVEK No particular view, but at this family house and peaceful, spacious garden, you can try the wines of Gyula Szabó as you lie on hay bales and pallet furniture. Köveskál, Fő utca 11. kalikovek.hu SABAR-DŰLŐ WINE HOUSE Instead of Lake Balaton, the view looks over the rolling greenery of Káli-medence in the background. After trying the excellent Rieslings here, you won’t mind a bit. Káptalantóti, Sabari szőlő 2. sabar.hu 74
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Fügekert Bed&Wine
KÁLI-MEDENCE
7 RESTAURANTS WORTH INVESTIGATING NEKED FŐZTEM A hike to the top of Zánka is rewarded with a fine meal fashioned from local ingredients. The green hills of Káli-medence provide a beautiful backdrop while you dine. Zánka, Fő utca 7. facebook.com/nekedfoztemzanka MI A KŐ Tamás Trombitás and his team oversee this gastronomic point of reference in Köveskál. Try the iconic rosé duck breast while being surrounded by contemporary artworks. Köveskál, Fő utca 25. mia-ko.hu KÁLI ART INN A fairytale garden, fine flavours and timeless elegance. The restaurant of this top lodging also offers four-course dinner menus for vegetarians. Booking recommended. Köveskál, Fő utca 6-8. kaliartinn.hu 76
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KÁLI-MEDENCE
KŐVIRÁG Flavours of the countryside feature here, with an enchanted garden to boot. Choose something from the chalked-up menu and crown it with Hungarian sweet cottage-cheese dumplings. Köveskál, Fő utca 9A. facebook.com/KoviragKoveskal TAGYON ESTATE Although the tastiest produce from Nivegy Valley features, this is not a restaurant per se, it’s more casual and familiar. Veg comes from the garden, wines from their own cellar. Tagyon, Tagyon-hegy dűlő. tagyonbirtok.hu FÜGEKERT BED&WINE First offering lodging and breakfast, Fügekert has since introduced all-day hedonism at weekends, with brunch and dinner on the terrace. The lecsó with a twist is a must! Zánka, Fő utca 30. fugekert.com
Zománc Bisztrócska
ZOMÁNC BISZTRÓCSKA Eating out here feels like having your very own Hungarian grandmother, with professionally executed traditional dishes served in classic retro red saucepans. Vászoly, Vazul utca 8. zomancbisztrocska.hu
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INTERVIEW
a Zakar and Kővirág restaurant owners Kat e with this little György Mészáros first fell in lov of an eatery and house, and then the concept rior design and lodging. Kata oversees its inte ever-changing menu. WLBa: What is your favourite
place at Káli-medence?
call Káli-medence home KZ: Just the thought that I can that I can see from my makes me happy. Everything as I’ve been looking at window is close to my heart time favourites are that view for 20 years now. Allarea towards Kapolcs from Csobánc, Fekete Hill and the l. It is magical, we often Balatonhenye as it is so peacefu unwind at the church ruins go there for a picnic. I totally only time for a quick walk, in Sóstókál, but when there’s ágóörs. I head to the Stone Fields at Kőv
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INTERVIEW
Kata Zakar
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DISCOVER BALATON: HIKING
Hiking The north shore of Balaton, with its hills, creeks, forests and fields, is ideal hiking territory. The pathways are easy to follow and the signs along the National Blue Trail were repainted a few years ago. There’s no need for special knowledge or fitness skills, just a decent pair of walking shoes, insect spray and trekking poles if you need. Here we present the most spectacular hilltops and lookout towers around the region that make for a pleasant stroll or something more challenging.
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TOP HILL HIKES AROUND KÁLI-MEDENCE CSOBÁNC - 376M The castle atop Csobánc provides one of the most wonderful views of the north shore. Approaching from Gyulakeszi or Diszel, you should follow the green and then the blue signs.
KOPASZ HILL - 302M A challenging set of steps lead to the top of Kopasz Hill from Mindszentkálla. Post-hike, the view of the whole Káli Basin spread out below will take away your breath again. 82
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FEKETE HILL - 369M This extraordinary volcanic hill is topped with a lookout tower presenting the Káli Basin’s pretty small lakes. From Köveskál, follow the blue cross and then the red triangle. From Balatonhenye, follow the Blue Trail.
HEGYESTŰ - 337M The most beautiful mining landscape in the country, Hegyestű comprises basalt columns – once quarried by hand – that stand out dramatically, surrounded by a simply stunning panorama.
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TOP HILL HIKES AROUND TAPOLCAI-MEDENCE SZENT GYร RGY HILL - 415M This is the most amazing of the standalone hills, with basalt organs created from lava, fine wines, caves that are cold even during the summer and eerily deserted spots.
BADACSONY - 438M The tallest of these stand-alone hills is also the centre of the local wine scene. Several paths lead upwards, the toughest being the Bujdosรณ steps. Once at the top, find the Ranolder Cross and the Kisfaludy lookout.
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TÓTI HILL - 346M This one’s the little brother of Gulács. Follow the blue triangles from Káptalantóti for a sensational panorama. Beware though, as the last bit is pretty steep.
GULÁCS - 393M Heading up to this extinct volcano is made all the more difficult by the steep and gravely ground. Start from Gyulakeszi, follow the green signs, then the blue triangles.
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PERFECT PANORAMAS FROM THE KESZTHELY HILLS BERZSENY LOOKOUT TOWER - 369M For far-fetching views, follow the red signs deep into the forest from Vonyarcvashegy station. The Festetics Lookout is also close by – again, follow the red signs. From Gyenesdiás KITAIBEL LOOKOUT TOWER - 225M This relatively recent lookout atop Vas Hill was opened to the public in 2002. Those who follow the red triangles from the train station will be rewarded with a panorama over Keszthely Bay. From Vonyarcvashegy
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PADKŰI LOOKOUT TOWER - 408M Leave the world behind for sweeping vistas in quiet reverence. If you’re coming the longer way from Vonyarcvashegy, it’s a ten-kilometre trek there and back – follow the green signs. You’ll see all the way to the south shore. From Vállis BÉL MÁTYÁS LOOKOUT TOWER - 221M If you climb 221-metrehigh Garga Hill – follow the yellow and red signs – you find this wooden lookout tower, providing a pretty panorama across Balaton. From Balatongyörök SZÉPKILÁTÓ - 140M There is no hill and no tower, but a panorama to die for. You’ll see the hills of the north shore and plains of the south. Picnic tables, a car park and cafés are also on hand. From Balatongyörök
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BADACSONY & AROUND An extinct volcano provides Badacsony with fertile soil for its famous wines, best sampled with a few fine bites in the shade of a panoramic terrace or an age-old cellar. This is also perfect hiking territory, with ruined castles and historic houses to explore.
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BADACSONY & AROUND
SZENT GYÖRGY HILL
LENGYEL CHAPEL
SZIGLIGET CASTLE
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CSOBÁNC
GULÁCS
BADACSONY
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Tátika Restaurant (Fortepan)
BADACSONY & AROUND
5 ICONIC BUILDINGS IN BADACSONY TÁTIKA RESTAURANT This Badacsony landmark was built in late modernist style in 1962, based on the plans of Ferenc Callmeyer. Its sheer glass wall was high-tech and pioneering for its day. Egry József sétány KISFALUDY HOUSE A previous owner of this 18th-century Baroque wine-press house was famed poet Sándor Kisfaludy. Today it features a panoramic restaurant and, fittingly, a wine terrace. Kisfaludy Sándor utca 28. kisfaludyhaz.hu SZŐLŐSKERT RESTAURANT At the beautifully situated former SZOT restaurant, modern meets traditional, in the use of materials from the Balaton Uplands. Also once a disco, it now stands empty. Római út 92
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Szőlőskert Restaurant
BADACSONY & AROUND
JÓZSEF EGRY MEMORIAL MUSEUM Classic Balaton painter József Egry spent his last years in this three-storey villa, built in 1941 from carved basaltic stone using original architectural solutions. Egry József sétány 21
Kisfaludy House (Fortepan)
HABLEÁNY The Mermaid was a hotel, restaurant and nightclub revered by everyone’s grandparents. It is now being revived by the Laposa estate, with a winery and restaurant. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 26. kishableany.com
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3 HISTORIC CASTLES TO EXPLORE
Szigliget
CSOBร NC Once a heroic battle site, this picturesque ruin is a favourite place for paragliders. The trek here takes about an hour, rewarded with a beautiful panoramic view. Gyulakeszi, Csobรกnchegy. csobancvar.hu
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SZIGLIGET The ‘Castle of Balaton’ merits a visit for the fine views, as well as the concerts and exhibitions held here. After 2 September, Szigliget closes for renovation until 2020. Szigliget, Kisfaludy utca 20. szigligeti-var.hu HEGYESD At 281 metres, Hegyesd offers a challenging hike. You won’t see much of the 13th-century castle apart from its foundation stones, but the tranquillity alone merits the climb. Hegyesd
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10 GREAT GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCES IST VÁNDY ESTATE Sip Kéknyelű as you admire the panorama while Hungarian grey cattle graze nearby. Book a terrace table to enjoy Istvándy’s home-made fare, sourced right here. Káptalantóti, Hegymög vineyard. istvandy.hu SZŐLŐHEGY BISZTRÓ At this successor to the St Orban restaurant, sample local bistro cuisine in the shadow of a huge vineyard. The view is as memorable as the curd-cheese dumplings. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 5. facebook.com/ szolohegybisztro PAP WINES Permaculture gardeners Áron Papa and partner Karina offer homegrown vegetarian tapas inspired by Med, Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine, plus craft wines. Booking required. Hegymagas. papwines.com VILLA K ABALA A Med-style villa once owned by a local painter houses this restaurant and guesthouse, where ingeniously reinvented Hungarian cuisine is served on the huge terrace. Szigliget, Kamonkői út 40. villakabala.hu ATTILA BAKOS FAMILY RESTAURANT The owner has been serving hearty Hungarian meaty dishes in a mini-museum setting for the last 25 years. Regulars are shown to their seats and order with a nod. Szigliget, Iharos utca 4. facebook.com/bakosvendeglo SZÁSZI ESTATE Admire Balaton, Szigliget Castle and the Kabócás vineyards over a seasonal dish selected from a concise gourmet menu, glass in hand under the old almond tree. Hegymagas. szaszipince.hu
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Istvándy Estate
BADACSONY & AROUND
TILIA WINE RESTAURANT Game, fish and Badacsony wines are served in the shade of linden trees or in the basalt-stone cellar. Find the right glass to go with wild boar, mouflon or pheasant. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 168-170. hotelneptunbadacsony.hu BORBARÁTOK Find ‘mildly innovative’ Hungarian cuisine and the romance of old Badacsony at this family restaurant, with lodging. Fata cellar wines almost 130 years old also feature. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 88. borbaratok.hu KIKÖTŐ ÉTTEREM Gaze at bobbing sailboats as you dine, and don’t be afraid to pull your table a little closer to the water. Home-made flavours, not fillers, dominate the menu. Szigliget harbour. facebook.com/etterem.kikoto KISFALUDY-HÁZ ÉTTEREM The Baroque press house where poet Sándor Kisfaludy once resided is now a Hungarian restaurant and wine terrace set in the heights of Badacsony, with a view to match. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy Sándor utca 28. kisfaludyhaz.hu
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INTERVIEW
oramic spots Badacsony has plenty of pan like to and hiking trails where locals We asked switch off from everyday life. d of the winemaker Bence Laposa, hea ite ones. Balaton Circle, about his favour ?
WLBa: Where do you like to hike
in the Badacsony BL: One of my favourite places nt György-hegy. area is the Polish Chapel on Sze unwind from everyday It is far away enough so you minutes if I just need life, but I only have to drive ten out bumping into a little stroll in the fresh air with emakers there! win anyone – there are plenty of chapel is the lionA few minutes’ walk from the get lost in the view. headed fountain, where I can eshed. By the time I’m back, I feel refr
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INTERVIEW
Bence Laposa
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Csendes Dűlő Wine Estate
BADACSONY & AROUND
7 WINE TERRACES WORTH A LINGER CSENDES DŰLŐ WINE ESTATE This young family winery also supplies Michelin-starred restaurants. Time stands still as you relax on the terrace they opened last year, sipping Kéknyelű. Badacsonyörs, Hegyalja út 69. csendes-dulo.hu FOLLY ARBORETUM AND WINERY Peace, tranquillity and birdsong – this is one of the quietest spots around Lake Balaton. Sample the light wines of the Folly family under pines centuries old. Badacsonyörs, Kápolnavölgyi út 25. follyarboretum.hu ISTVÁNDY WINE WORKSHOP This wine bar in a venerable villa in town provides panoramic views to save you the hike. Live music or low-key jazz accompanies sunset and a sparkling Kéknyelű. Badacsonytomaj, Római út 155. istvandy.hu 100
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BADACSONY & AROUND
FRISSTERASZ This Laposa-run wine terrace is a relaxed communal spot and concert venue where you can sip, watch the game and forego dinner by popping to the bar for street food. Badacsonytomaj, Kisfaludy utca 1-3. frissterasz.hu PLÁNE BADACSONY WINE TERRACE Obligatory major wines and some from smaller cellars, gastronomic weekends, specialty coffees and plenty of stories, some told by the winemakers themselves. Badacsonytomaj, Park utca 18. facebook.com/planebadacsony VÁLIBOR It’s worth seeking out this hidden estate at Badacsonyörs, where there’s a beautiful view and always a delicacy alongside the wines. Don’t miss Péter Vali’s Budai Zöld. Badacsonyörs, Major út 46. valibor.hu
Válibor
NYÁRI PINCE On the southern slopes of Szent György-hegy, overlooking Badacsony and the Polish Chapel, sample the Nyári family’s versions of Kéknyelű, Rajnai Rizling or Szürkebarát. Hegymagas. nyaripince.hu
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BLUE IS THE COLOUR Kéknyelű is an ancient Hungarian grape variety, named after the bluish-reddish shade of its leaves. Interestingly enough, today you only find it around Badacsony. In 2013, it was included in canon of selected Hungarian specialities, a Hungaricum. These used to be called nobleman’s grapes, because they required a lot of care, but their yield was low – the little wine was thus ‘the nobleman’s passion’. Only the female variety flowers, so it is necessary to install stamens from grape types such as Rózsakő or Budai Zöld. Despite the extra care required, ever more wineries are bottling Kéknyelű. According to winemakers, this is the prince of Badacsony wines, which best expresses the characteristics of the volcanic terroir. It also produces whites with special aromas and sparkling wines. It’s no surprise, then, that the blossoming of Kéknyelű is an event celebrated around Badacsony every first weekend of June.
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Biking The first sign that the weather’s getting warmer is cyclists heading for the lake as soon as they can. Serious riders prefer spring and autumn but you can still see them around the Balaton highlands and flat southern shore on milder summer days. Cycle paths are constantly evolving, and soon they will begin to renovate the entire RoundBalaton Bike Trail. Here we suggest spectacular cycle routes and refreshing rest stops for those who want to take in the area on two wheels.
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Világosi High Bank
DISCOVER BALATON: BIKING
5 CYCLE ROUTES WITH AMAZING PANORAMAS VILÁGOS HIGH BANK From the top of the lake, you roll down to the steep bank where the cycle path goes to Balatonvilágos and Akarattya. In good weather, you can see the whole eastern basin. ASZÓFŐ-ÖRVÉNYES From Tihany, towards Keszthely, you reach two tiny villages. Between them, a cycle path and a service road run at the right height to see the lake all the way to Balatonudvari. BALATONEDERICS-BALATONGYÖRÖK Fine panoramas stretch out at the Veszprém-Zala county border. Szépkilátó, the Beautiful Lookout, towers over an equally gorgeous golf course, and the bike path is top-quality. 106
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Aszófő-Örvényes
DISCOVER BALATON: BIKING
FONYÓD LOESS WALL While locals struggle to keep this bank from falling onto the railway or main road, cyclists can ride by the lake with Badacsony and a towering hillside on either side.
Fonyód
BADACSONY ROMAN ROAD From Badacsonytomaj to Lábdihegy, the Roman road runs parallel to the main 71 but higher up, skirting the hill. The view is superb, often surrounded by vineyards.
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10 BEST STOPS FOR REST AND RECREATION ZÖLD You’ll have to earn your rest stop with the climb above Almádi but you’ll be riding on a renovated cycle path and soon sipping a spritzer in this verdant valley. Szentkirályszabadja, Vödörvölgy. facebook.com/zold1 VINO TERAZZA Whether you freewheel down the hill between Csopak and Balatonfüred or walk it, this Italian restaurant is on the way, its lovely garden ideal for lunch or a quick bite. Balatonfüred, Germering utca 7. vinoterazza.hu
Bor és Bringa
IBOLYA BÜFÉ For some time this has been the beach bar in Boglár which caters to cyclists. Enthusiastic owners, food made with heart and soul – there’s no need for anything else. Balatonboglár, Kodály Zoltán utca 24. facebook.com/ibolyabufe
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BRINGAKALI While other places recommended here score high for sustenance and refreshment, Bringakali can offer bike repair and cycle shop, along with soft drinks and snacks. Balatonakali, Vasút line 2. bringakali.hu PAZAR COFFEE Füred is increasingly frequented by cyclists, and more cafés are popping up. Móni Sütis desserts, quality coffee, teas and matcha all await at this rather funky spot. Balatonfüred, Aranyhíd sétány 6 GURULÓ MOKKA The Rolling Mokka is a van whose regular spot is Ábrahám hill. Once its back door opens up, it dispenses the refreshing coffee and the charm of the couple in charge. Ábrahámhegy, Park utca 28 BALATON BÁR Taken over last year by ArtBalaton Gallery, this outdoor counter and lively terrace await recuperating cyclists with wines and cordials from surrounding producers. Örvényes, Új utca 2. facebook.com/balatonbarkrumplee BOR ÉS BRINGA Let’s face it, what good is a bike ride without a spritzer on the way? The wanderer can find this at vineyard outlet ‘Wine & Bike’, with organised tours also laid on. Balatonföldvár, Nyugati strand. facebook.com/BoresBringa TEKERGŐ KERÉKPÁROS PIHENŐ The best spot on a southern shore from a touring point of view. While half of the team can lay into the isotonic drinks, the others can find tools for essential repairs. Balatonberény, Rózsa utca 1. tekergobalaton.hu FENYVES YACHT CLUB This marina also focuses on cyclists, providing them with bike hire, workshops, running water and rest spots, as well as a quality restaurant they can try out. Balatonfenyves, Mária utca 1. fenyvesyachtclub.hu/biciklikozpont
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KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ Those heading for the iconic thermal lake of Hévíz and its replenishing, healing waters, should also allow time to explore nearby Keszthely, and its sumptuous Festetics Palace. With an improving gastronomic offering, this area at the far west of Balaton is also prime hiking territory.
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LAKE HÉVÍZ
FESTETICS PALACE
KIS-BALATON
BALATON MUSEUM
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VONYARCVASHEGY CHAPEL
SZÉPKILÁTÓ
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Szigetfürdő
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
7 SPLENDID SIGHTS AROUND KESZTHELY FESTETICS PALACE AND PARK This picture-postcard attraction has seen major changes in recent years, with a new room in the Portrait Hall, the mausoleum reconstructed and the cellar now a wine museum. Kastély utca 1. helikonkastely.hu SZIGETFÜRDŐ These artificial islands have been restored to their original 19th-century form. Illuminated at night, they also provide the ideal setting for long, sunny days. Balaton embankment. keszthely.hu/latnivalok/egyeb/szigetfurdo FŐ TÉR/SÉTÁLÓUTCA This main square is the heart of Keszthely, its town hall, theatre and likeness of György Festetics. Find more local history on the adjoining pedestrianised street. Fő tér/Kossuth Lajos utca. keszthely.hu/latnivalok/setaloutca 114
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BALATON MUSEUM This modernised attraction covers everything concerning life at the lake and surroundings, right back to Roman times. Local art features at temporary exhibitions. Múzeum utca 2. balatonimuzeum.hu
Amazon House Visitor Centre
AMAZON HOUSE VISITOR CENTRE The former Amazon Hotel in the grounds of the Festetics Palace, this family-friendly attraction now operates as a museum for veteran cars, boats and other transport. Kastély utca 17-19. helikonkastely.hu
LITTLE ST TERESA BASILICA The largest domestic temple of the Carmelite Order, founded in the 12th century, was reclaimed by the Carmelite community in 1989 after being out of bounds for decades. Tapolca út 1 SYNAGOGUE In the courtyard of Goldmark House, the Synagogue underwent a much-needed reconstruction in the 1990s. Behind it, a cosy little Biblical garden has also been created. Kossuth Lajos utca 22 2019 / SUMMER — AUTUMN
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Csóka Fészek
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
7 TOP RESTAURANTS WITH PRIME VIEWS PURA VIDA PORT At this Med-style spot in Keszthely harbour, Tapolca trout and serrano ham feature on the same menu. The pizzas are outstanding, best enjoyed over live music in the evening. Keszthely harbour. puravidaport.hu VITORLÁS BISZTRÓ In contrast to the standard beach buffets nearby, the Vitorlás Bisztró offers chili beans, pork stew or fish ‘n’ chips instead of the ubiquitous hamburger or hake. Keszthely, Városi Strand. facebook.com/vitorlasbisztrokeszthely BOCK BISTRO BALATON Partnered with the Bock wine and gastro dynasty, this spot offers panoramic views and Zala specialities from dödölle to tócsni. The pike-perch is prepared Keszthely-style. Vonyarcvashegy, Helikon utca 22. bockbisztrobalaton.hu 116
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KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
BRIX BISZTRÓ At this new-wave bistro in the Bonvital Hotel, Hungarian dishes are the focus, but the goat’s cheese burgers and tuna wraps appeal to the many international visitors. Hévíz, Rákóczi utca 16-18. bonvital.accenthotels.com/hu/brix-bistro ÖREG HARANG This award-winning eatery is another reason to scale Egregy Hill. At the Old Bell, they take local ingredients seriously, prepared and presented in a relaxed atmosphere. Hévíz, Zrínyi utca 181. oregharang.hu CSÓKA FÉSZEK Word of mouth has it that the kitchen at Csóka Fészek now matches the beauty of the view, showcasing quality gastronomy. A summer grill offers relaxed match-watching. Balatongyörök, Szépkilátó. facebook.com/csokafeszeketterem
Pura Vida Port
FARM INN FOGADÓ At this hidden tavern in Zala, the kitchen shows no trace of tradition. Fresh that day, seasonal raw materials are prepared by a German chef with a Hungarian bent. Zalacsány, Örvényeshegy 20. facebook.com/farminnzalacsany
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Promenád Kávéház
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
5 PLACES TO FIND FINE DESSERTS MÓNISÜTI Almost everyone knew about Moni’s desserts when she opened her own place. This pastry shop with a children’s corner is a must for its fresh-fruit and light cream cakes. Gyenesdiás, Madách utca 46. facebook.com/monisuti JORDANICS CUKRÁSZDA This Keszthely mainstay has managed to preserve its quality for generations. Find the finest ice cream in the pedestrianised zone right in the heart of town. Keszthely, Pethő utca 7. jordanics.hu PROMENÁD KÁVÉHÁZ In addition to the match-winning views, it’s worth turning off Road 71 to treat yourself to a home-made cake and ice cream or a hearty and healthy breakfast. Balatongyörök, Felsőcsetényi utca 50 118
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Mónisüti
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
PART CAFÉ & GRILL A location right in the middle of Keszthely allows you to sample Sütis Móni’s legendary cakes – plus freshly baked bread and grilled sandwiches – without leaving town. Keszthely, Bercsényi Miklós utca 65
Tulipán Kávéház
TULIPÁN KÁVÉHÁZ In this shaded garden, forget your everyday worries as you tuck into a cake. Early opening means you can also have breakfast in this 19th-century setting, a former hotel. Keszthely, Erzsébet királyné útja 30
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5 EXTREME SPORTS AROUND KESZTHELY FOOTGOLF Yup, this is a game that combines the rules of football and golf, best witnessed, in fact, experienced, on a special course right here next to Lake Balaton. Golfclub Imperial, Balatongyörök, Becehegy, Mandulo utca. footgolfpalyak.hu WATER SKIING & WAKEBOARDING At Lido Beach, beginners of all ages can learn various kinds of water sports thanks to expert tuition. Old hands can make use of top-notch sports equipment. Vonyarcvashegy, Lido Strand. vonyarcvashegy.hu/strand SKYDIVING A five-minute freefall from 4,000 metres, coupled to an experienced parachutist – this unique experience starts at Balatonkeresztúr airport, after you book your slot. Balatonkeresztúr, Külterület. balatonhostels.hu/repuelj-veluenk DIVING The cave below Lake Hévíz is only open to divers with advanced qualifications. Accessing the entrance, a full 40 metres deep, is a massive challenge in itself. Hévíz. multicolor.hu/Hevizibarlang/heviz.htm CAVING At Csodabogyós in Balatonederics, beginners can go in for caving as part of a guided tour. Stalactites fill huge halls, reward for a strenuous clamber along a tricky path. Balatonederics. csodabogyos.hu
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Wakeboard
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Stupa
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
5 GREAT HIDDEN SIGHTS TÁTIKA CASTLE Setting out from Zalaszántó, a 30-minute hike up steep paths takes you to this 13th-century castle ruin, from where neighbouring Rezi and Sümeg Castle also come into view. Zalaszántó ST MICHAEL’S CHAPEL In the middle of the pine forest, this votive chapel was built after 40 fishermen escaped the icy waters of Lake Balaton. There are several picnic places on the way. Vonyarcvashegy, St. Michael’s Hill STUPA It’s worth making a detour from the footpath that leads to Világosvár, partly for the strange sight of an exotic Buddhist sanctuary, partly to take part in meditation. Zalaszántó, Világosvár 13
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Bazaltutca
KESZTHELY & HÉVÍZ
FERENC BURUCZKY PATH/BAZALT UTCA This lesser-known but more adventurous route in Zala will take you past basalt columns up to 15 metres high. Can be approached from Nagygörbő or Vindornyaszőlős. Kovácsi-hegy
Tátika Castle
ST MARY MAGDALENE CHURCH OF EGREGY One of the last surviving churches of the Árpád era to be found at Lake Balaton, surrounded by a cemetery that has been in use over the past few centuries. Hévíz, Egregyi szőlőhegy
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THE SOVIET WHO SAVED FESTETICS PALACE It is somehow indicative that at the end World War II, the most valuable assets of the Festetics Palace were not saved by locals but by a Soviet commander-in-chief. At the time, the townspeople had started looting the palace that had been abandoned by the Festetics family, so their servants turned to the invading Soviet troops for help. Their leader finally ordered that the doorways to the library wing be walled in. It was only in this way that the books and precious collectables escaped a terrible fate. While other Hungarian castles saw their valuables shifted to safety, here they had remained in place all through the war. The doorways were demolished in 1946 and the Helikon Library, an integral part of the castle museum, was opened in 1948.
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Beach food It has been several years since the pioneers of beach food burst onto Balaton’s beach scene with their new-wave snacks and lunches created from fresh and mainly local ingredients. Customer numbers and menu ranges have been growing ever since – here we present the most promising. Old wave is still going strong, of course, lángos deep-fried dough and fried fish the favourites for many on the waterfront. Fish grills also feature prominently.
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Oszi Bácsi’s Grill
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC H FOOD
7 GREAT GRILLED FISH OUTLETS ASZÓFŐ FISH GRILL A gigantic rubber fish between Füred and Aszófő indicates this eatery, where classic fish dishes are made from carp, bream, catfish and pike. Long queues, decent service. Aszófő, by Road 71 OSZI BÁCSI’S GRILL At this legendary grill, you can opt for fish in paprika flour before it hits the pan and is served on a plate with bread and pickle. Order pike if rudd doesn’t fit the bill. Szigliget, beach at Soponya út ZOLI KÁNYA’S GRILL A huge range of fish dishes is found here by Road 71, from catfish kebabs to fish ‘n’ chips, home-smoked mackerel and salmon. Even the view from the terrace is fabulous. Balatonszepezd, Csuki tér 2. facebook.com/kanyazolihal 128
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NÁDFEDELES GRILL Classics – fish soups, catfish stew, grilled fish, fillet of pike-perch – are complemented by catfish kebabs and carp crackling, along with gluten-free dishes. Balatonlelle, Fogas utca 1. facebook.com/nadfedeleshalsuto JÓBARÁTOK FISH GRILL All year round, fried hake, rudd and fish soup attract a crowd, the Jóbarátok frequented by locals and holidaymakers. The smoked fish and sterlet should not be missed. Balatonalmádi, Lóczy tér 1. facebook.com/jobaratokhalsutode KARCSI HALAS BUFFET Chatty Károly Csibrák prepares everything fresh, so you may have to wait a while until your pike-perch, perch fillet or, a speciality, breaded milt, are ready. Zamárdi, Mókus utca 1A. facebook.com/HalasKarcsiBufeje
Nádfedeles Grill
SIÓ FISH GRILL Holidaymakers and the Balaton Sound crowd love this spot where pike-perch, rudd, carp and trout are fried or baked, filleted, sizzled in oil or prepared whole. Siófok, Vitorlás utca 1-3
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Tiki Beach
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7 BRILLIANT BALATON BEACH-FOOD SPOTS KALÓZ STRANDBISZTRÓ One of the pioneers of the beach-food revolution has a more bistro-like offer besides its legendary catfish and chips, such as artisanal burgers, stuffed breads and salads. Balatonudvari-Fövenyes, Strand utca 1. kalozstrandbisztro.hu CODE ZERO Here you can sit by Csopak marina just a stone’s throw from the water while enjoying tasty BBQ meat dishes, complemented with perfectly matching sides. Csopak, Örkény István sétány 8-16. facebook.com/codezerobalaton A KONYHÁM Sit down to a burger or a vegan treat at the spot where they invented the gofcsi, a cross between a waffle and a tócsni potato pancake, Beach Food Dish of the Year for 2018. Balatonfenyves, Balatonpart utca 8. facebook.com/akonyham 130
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DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC H FOOD
TIKI BEACH BISZTRÓ Here Polynesia meets Hungary to offer guests divine burgers, homemade dumplings and mixed drinks. Don’t leave without sampling the Bahamas Marci cocktail first. Zamárdi, Margo Ede sétány MANGO BEACH Regulars swear by the pizzas and mákos guba desserts here, but it is also worth investigating the Asian dishes that tend to crop up on the menu every fortnight. Balatongyörök, Strand utca. facebook.com/MangoBeachPizzeria VILLA STRANDBISZTRÓ A chef with local roots and top experience in Vienna set up this dream project, where the pulled pork takes 13 hours to prepare. Burgers, fish ‘n’ chips and cocktails, too. Balatonlelle, Virág utca. facebook.com/strandbisztro
A konyhám
TERASZ This new-wave buffet run by chef Bálint Kocsis, reached from the beach and the road, offers cold soups, salads, burgers and home-made sausages, plus meat-free dishes. Balatonalmádi, Szent István utca 6. www.facebook.com/teraszbalatonalmadi
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Széplaki Lángosbüfé
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC H FOOD
5 TOP OUTLETS FOR LOVELY LÁNGOS SZÉPLAKI LÁNGOSBÜFÉ It’s now 35 years since Silver Beach opened and this lángos spot, since passed down from generation to generation, remains the most popular. A must for lángos fans. Siófok-Balatonszéplak, Hungária utca 27B. szeplakilangos.atw.hu RÉV BÜFÉ Révfülöp jetty is a dog- and bike-friendly place where you can devour classic lángos while gazing at the swans on the waterfront, from early spring to late autumn. Révfülöp, Halász utca 2 ZÁNKA BEACH LÁNGOSOZÓ “Once you’ve kneaded the dough, it’s like a living thing in your hands,” says László Pál Styaszni of the legendary Zánka lángos spot. Try his kürtőskalács chimney cake, too. Zánka beach, Rákóczi út 132
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Gyuri Lángosbüfé
DISCOVER BALATON: BEAC H FOOD
GYURI LÁNGOSBÜFÉ For 15 years, György Láng has been creating his crispy-edged lángos, not overcooked and not drowned in oil. According to the master, top ingredients and love are the key. Alsóörs, Strand sétány. pelsocamping.hu/gyuri-langos-bufe
Széplaki Lángosbüfé
TIHANYI PIAC PLACC LÁNGOSOZÓ Those looking for pork-knuckle lángos should head here to Piac Placc. Of course, traditional versions of this award-winning lángos won’t disappoint, either. Tihany, Rév utca 2
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BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR Wooded hills, free beaches, quality wines, awardwinning gastronomy, incredible panoramas and attractions a-plenty – there’s far more to this stretch of the southern shore, from Balatonszemes to Balatonberény, than simple holiday fun. And all an easy train ride or car hop from Budapest.
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CSAVARGŐZÖS
VÁRHEGY LOOKOUT TOWER
FONYÓD VILLAS
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GÖMB GLOBE
SZENT DONÁT CHAPEL
KISHEGY
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Csavargőzös
BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR
5 SIGHTS THAT REVEAL LOCAL HISTORY CSAVARGŐZÖS The second oldest boat at Balaton has been converted into a mini-museum, but its top half still gives you the impression of what it was like when it was sailing the lake. Balatonboglár, Mólosétány. csavargozos.hu DÁNIEL BERZSENYI MEMORIAL HOUSE Many only know this poet from school textbooks, but his museum brings him closer in real life. His letters, pipes and musical instruments are all on display. Nikla, Berzsenyi Dániel utca 96. niklainfo.hu CRYPT VILLA This unusual yet enduring sight was built by a lovelorn fiancé for his would-be bride who died before they could be wed. Within, the never-to-be couple are carved in marble. Fonyód, József utca 16 138
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St László Memorial Site
BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR
ST LÁSZLÓ MEMORIAL SITE From an exhibition about the legends of László I, visitors to this landmark then head up a staircase to the ruins of a former Benedictine abbey, and a lookout post. Somogyvár, Kupavárhegy. facebook.com/somogyvariapatsag
Zoltán Latinovits Memorial Museum
ZOLTÁN LATINOVITS MEMORIAL MUSEUM Opposite the local cemetery where this legendary actor lies buried, a memorial house covers his entire career and a statue honours him in bronze. Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca 52. szemesimuvhaz.hu/ latinovits-zoltan-emlekmuzeum
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10 GREAT PLACES TO EAT KISTÜCSÖK ÉTTEREM For the last 25 years, Balázs Csapody has been building his internationally renowned restaurant, sourcing locally. In summer, diners take a number and wait their turn. Balatonszemes, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 25. kistucsok.hu BL YACHTCLUB & APARTMENTS Lelle marina is a reliable place to dine, whether you’re a hotel guest or not. This year, a BBQ is also pressed into action and complements the à la carte options. Balatonlelle, Republikas út 36-38. blyc.hu KEDVESEM BISZTRÓ The former Mango has changed its name, but its kitchen on the waterfront is still worth investigating, and its curd-cheese dumplings are still not to be missed. Balatonlelle, Móló sétány. facebook.com/kedvesembisztro VITORLÁS ÉTTEREM It looks like any old Balaton restaurant, but if you find a table, you’ll realise it isn’t. Changes here attract new guests without putting off the many regulars. Balatonlelle, Republikas út 14. facebook.com/vitorlasetterembalatonlelle ROCKBURGER The story here began when a guy inherited a classic Balaton wine bar. Three years later, guests are still coming back to sink their teeth into a Deep Purple burger. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 194. facebook.com/rockburgerofficial KRISTINUS GASTRO MŰHELY You find outstanding cuisine at this wine estate in Kéthely, where dishes differ from the normal. After your meal, take your seat in their little on-site cinema. Kéthely, Hunyadi utca 99. kristinus.hu PALETTA BISZTRÓ If you’re lost on the Boglár waterfront, Paletta is a point of reference. Something is always sizzling on the grill while chef Dani Bezerics surprises with his creations. Balatonboglár, Kikötő utca 6. facebook.com/PalettaBoglar 140
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BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR
PAVILON You wouldn’t tell to look at this retro building but the pizzas and pastas here are superb. A secret favourite, Pavilon is being discovered by more diners every year. Balatonboglár, Kodály Zoltán utca 45-49 MÁRTON CUKRÁSZDA For decades, locals and holidaymakers have been making pilgrimages to this Lelle legend on main Rákóczi út. Given the quality of its cakes, not without reason. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 241. facebook.com/martoncukraszdabalatonlelle
Kristinus Gastro Műhely
GELETA CUKRÁSZDA Living proof that Lelle has two excellent confectioneries, one down the road from the other. Don’t be surprised to find new-wave cakes among old favourites. Balatonlelle, Rákóczi út 269. facebook.com/geletacukraszda
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INTERVIEW
ร doรกhnemr P
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INTERVIEW
The 25-year-old chef at legend ary restaurant Kistücsök made the world fina l of the Bocuse d’Or in Lyon this year. We asked him about his favourite Balaton ingredients. WLBa: Can you name any key ingredients from around Lake Balaton that would hold their ground internationally – even at the Bocuse d’Or? ÁP: Angus beef from Balatonf enyves, Keszthely sturgeon, asparagus from Balatonszem es, wild boar from Bőszénfa, Lajos Fodor’s vegetables from Siófok and many more – how many great raw ingredie nts can be found around Lake Balaton! There is also an increasing number of quality kitchens that use seasonal ingr edients. The gastronomy of the area is undoubtedly dev eloping, so it is even more important that the surrounding restaurants build on this local produce, so that this proc ess generates by itself. And if there’s a source that can com pete with the ones I’ve just named, it will surely appear soon er or later.
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3 SPOTS TO ADMIRE THE NORTH SHORE
Kishegy
ST DONAT’S CHAPEL This hidden pearl of Kishegy is crowned by a Baroque chapel, dedicated to the patron saint of vineyards in 1758. Mass is held every year on St Donat’s Day, during Wine Week. Balatonlelle, Kishegy-telep. balatonlelle.hu/hu/kishegy
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BALATONLELLE & BALATONBOGLÁR
VÁRHEGYI SZÉPLÁTÓ At 281 metres tall, this rebuilt lookout tower provides a full panorama of the northern coast. Around the base, a communal barbecue and playground attract families. Fonyód, Várhegy utca. fonyodert.hu/kilatok GÖMB PANORAMIC GLOBE This post-war symbol of the southern shore was inspired by the 1958 World Expo in Brussels and renovated in 2012. Now made of metal, it offers fine views across the lake. Balatonboglár, Kilátó utca. balatonboglarbob.hu/kalandpark/ gombkilato
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SIÓFOK & ZAMÁRDI For many, Siófok and Zamárdi provide reason enough to come to the lake, given the hectic nightlife and major music festivals, Balaton Sound included, integral to any summer here. It’s not all partying, though – quality dining and extreme sports also draw visitors.
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ZAMÁRDI BEACH
SZÁNTÓD FERRY
KŐHEGY LOOKOUT TOWER
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WATER TOWER
SIÓFOK BEACH
TÖREKI LAKES
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Kőhegy Lookout Tower
SIÓFOK & ZAMÁRDI
5 ATTRACTIONS WORTH EXPLORING TÖREK LAKES Who would think that a natural idyll of lakes, woods, reeds, waterfowl, undisturbed countryside and a nature trail could be found so close to Siófok’s crowded centre? Siófok, Töreki utca KŐHEGY LOOKOUT TOWER A broad panoramic view opens up before you as you head towards this lookout tower in Zamárdi. Local legend has it that Jesus once appeared at nearby Szamárkő. Zamárdi, Kőhegy, Kilátó dűlő. zamardi.hu/kilato SAILING HISTORY VISITOR CENTRE An amazing panoramic lookout tower and an interactive exhibition in one – this modern, multi-functional attraction sits atop the natural embankment wall. Balatonföldvár, Erzsébet utca 50. balatonfoldvarikilato.hu 150
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Törek Lakes
SIÓFOK & ZAMÁRDI
SIÓFOK WATER TOWER This iconic landmark on Siófok’s main square can be explored inside and out. Head up to the open panoramic rotating terrace for fantastic views and a drink at the café. Siófok, Fő tér 11. viztorony.com
Kerek Castle
KEREK CASTLE The ruins of Fehérkő Castle are 282 metres high. Mentioned in chronicles in 1338, the fortress suffered one siege too many, and proved no match for the invading Turks. Kereki, Amaliapuszta
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FERRY ACROSS BALATON The span of Lake Balaton averages 7.7 kilometres but there is one point where only a single kilometre separates the north and south coasts: Tihany Strait. Here is where you find the ferry crossing between Szántód and Tihany, used by more than a million passengers in 2018. The Romans also tried a similar crossing but on a much smaller craft. In the Middle Ages, Tihany Abbey had people taken across in a sail-equipped rowing boat. From Szántód, a smoke signal indicated that someone would be crossing, before they came over from Tihany. Modernisation came with the first motorised engine built in 1927, with a maximum load of eight cars. Blown up during World War II, it was rebuilt to carry another two vehicles. Between 1961 and 1976, four ships, Kisfaludy, Kossuth, Széchenyi and Baross, were built, also equipped for buses. Ferries run according to summer and winter timetables, and are only held up by rough winds or thick ice.
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Déli Part BBQ
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5 GREAT PLACES TO EAT IN SIÓFOK EGY CSIPET NÁDAS You won’t believe that you can find a restaurant that is so quiet and idyllic in Siófok – with a quality menu too. Squirrels love running around the herb garden. Töreki utca 40. egycsipetnadas.hu DÉLI PART BBQ A barbecue experience to be enjoyed alongside the Sió Canal, where meat lovers bond with the pitmaster after he sizzles up and brings out their burgers or beef slices. Vámház utca 2. facebook.com/delipartbbq MALA GARDEN Hotel and restaurant in one whose high quality complements a Balinese sensitivity. It takes its Oriental cuisine seriously, and its eclectic menu does not disappoint. Petőfi sétány 15A. malagarden.hu ROZMARING KISKERT VENDÉGLŐ ÉS PIZZÉRIA This little eatery hidden along a quiet side street is a purveyor of fine Italian cuisine, promising ‘a drop of Tuscany’ by Lake Balaton. Akácfa utca 53. facebook.com/rozmaring.pizzeria FISH HOUSE Be it saltwater or freshwater, small or large, in one piece or in chunks, served with noodles or vegetables, fish is the focus here at the shore of Sós lake. Puszta-torony tér 1. facebook.com/fishhousesosto.hu 154
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SIÓFOK & ZAMÁRDI
3 COOL CONFECTIONERIES MANDARA CAFÉ The little brother of Mala Garden in Siófok, equally Balinese in appearance throughout the interior, here new-wave cakes are offered alongside domestic classics. Siófok, Szent István sétány 15A. malagarden.hu/mandara-cafe-lounge CAFÉ MELBA Whether it’s Italian ice cream and coffee or Austrian cake, the Melba dynasty offers the very best of everything, and all a stone’s throw from Siófok’s main square. Siófok, Fő utca 172. facebook.com/cafemelbasiofok
Café Melba
SZÉLCSEND There aren’t that many places at Lake Balaton where you can find homemade lavender products alongside terrific pastries. Szélcsend happens to be a happy exception. Balatonföldvár, Budapesti út 1. facebook.com/szelcsendkave
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Gokart Balaton
7 EXCITING ACTIVITIES FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY
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ZAMÁRDI ADVENTURE PARK One of the first signs of summer at Balaton is when this outdoor attraction opens up, its lake and jump tower beside adventure courses of varying degrees of difficulty. Zamárdi, Siófoki út. zamardikalandpark.hu GOKART BALATON 400 metres of asphalt await those who want to zoom under supervised conditions. Safety comes first but this should still bring out the Fittipaldi in everyone. Siófok, Jégverem utca. gokartbalaton.hu BAMBOO ISLAND Ideal for those who want to try out water skiing, wakeboarding or similar activities at speeds of 30 kilometres per hour – then sink into a deckchair on the shore. Siófok-Szabadifürdő, Csúszda utca 1. bamboosziget.hu SUPPORT Here you can take to the SUP board any time and do battle with the waves of Balaton. The braver ones can even do yoga on the water – anyone dare taking their dog on too? Zamárdi, Harcsa utca. supshop.hu/tag/zamardi SKYDIVING Those apprehensive about leaping out of a Mi-8 helicopter should feel assured once they arrive at Kiliti airport and link themselves to an experienced tandem jumper. Siófok-Kiliti, Szekszárd út 1. ugranijo.hu VIHARSAROK SAILING CENTRE Set sail aboard a pirate ship or a catamaran, or take to the Balaton waves riding a surfboard. Friendly, experienced instructors await beginners and old hands. Balatonföldvár, Keleti strand, Somogyi Béla utca. multihulliganok.hu SIOFOK BIG WHEEL Those who couldn’t quite make the skydiving jump can comfort themselves with a ride on this 50-metre wheel, due to be installed at the start of the high season. Siófok, Petőfi sétány. siofokoriaskerek.hu
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This publication is the intellectual property of We Love Publishing Kft.. Reproduction in full or in part is strictly prohibited. Our team has paid particular attention to the accuracy of all the information within but we accept no responsibility or liability for any changes which may have occurred. info@welovebalaton.hu Budapest, 2019
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Created by the team behind regularly updated online resource We Love Balaton, this guide shares their expertise. Festivals and food markets, beaches and bars, wineries and eateries, key events and destinations around Hungary’s prime lakeside retreat all feature. Maps, tips, interviews and explainers give the whole picture. Welcome to We Love Balaton!
SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019