WE LOVE BUDAPEST POCKET GUIDE SUMMER-AUTUMN 2019 by We Love Budapest

FOOD

NIGHTLIFE

SPAS FESTIVALS

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

FOOD

NIGHTLIFE

SPAS FESTIVALS

SUMMER / AUTUMN

2019

INTRODUCTION Budapest comes alive in summer. Its famed spas become lidos, its ruin bars transform into open-air parties and a holiday mood imbues Hungaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gorgeous capital. On busy terraces, sassy waitstaff serve quality coffee, fine wines and creative cuisine. Music fans flock here for the Sziget Festival, petrolheads for Formula 1 and families line the Danube for the celebratory fireworks on August 20th. At We Love Budapest, we strive to provide the best insider tips to make your visit memorable, for the first-timer or the veteran. Festivals, eats, bars and spas, we cover the city from top to toe. Welcome to Budapest â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and welcome to We Love Budapest! www.welovebudapest.com/en

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

HUNGARY

BUDAPEST

Attracting a record ten million-plus guest stays in 2018, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Summer sees the city transformed by music festivals and alfresco events.

With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

BALATON

Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton. hu in Hungarian and English.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

2019 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content. Throughout 2019, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary. Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort. Distributed free nationwide!

Created by the team behind a daily stream of online content about the city they love, this guide shares their tips and expertise. Christmas markets, skating rinks, snowy spas and craft-beer bars, the winter attractions of this most gorgeous of European capitals have been visited, assessed and pinpointed on a fold-out map. Welcome to We Love Budapest!

FOOD SPAS BARS CHRISTMAS MARKETS

A We Lov gál

team at gary! The share Love Hun Balaton now e to We Love Tokaj, Welcom st and We Sopron, Eger, e Budape ounding ertise for We Lov and exp s, and surr cover and Péc their tips features ed n, Szeged ws and rece rvie Deb il, illustrat iews, inte s in deta ons. Rev tination . des attracti hics ct and grap s of sele hundred s, photos by map

e Balaton szol online friss és magazin megbízh már öt régió látn ató info éve rmációk ivalóiról, kal a bala életérő l, szabadid gasztronómiai toni és kulturál ős pro kiadván E gram yában erreWIN is jairól. ING a tud ésDIN ásra ETS Nyomtatott ötleteke MA RKalapozva ad t a AS 201 TM tippeke CH RIS tava 8–2019-es téli t és kora szi idős zakra.

FCOrePYe

Ingyenes KIA

W I N T E R-S P R I N G / 2 0 1 8 -2 019

2018–

CUSTOM PUBLISHING WINT

E R-S P

RING

/ 2018

GA SZ TR Ó TÚ RÁ K PR OG RA MO K

DVÁ NY

2019

/ TÉL –T

AVA S

Z WINT

E R-S P

RING

/ 2018

2019

2018–

2019

/ TÉL –T

AVA S

Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION Useful information ...................................................................................................10 Budapest key districts .............................................................................................14 Budapest’s 10 best sights .......................................................................................16 Budapest’s 10 best summer experiences ......................................................... 18 Budapest with kids ...................................................................................................22

SIGHTS & TOURS (24-37) 5 perfect panoramic views ................................................................................... 26 Interview – Escape-room pioneer Attila Gyurkovics ................................... 28 3 best city strolls ...................................................................................................... 30 3 budget-friendly ways for breezy sightseeing .............................................. 31 5 best Art Nouveau landmarks ............................................................................32 Explainer – All aboard the Children’s Railway ............................................... 34 3 best tram rides .......................................................................................................36 3 ways to see Budapest by speedboat ..............................................................37

DINING & STREET FOOD (38-61) 5 best all-day breakfasts .......................................................................................40 3 places for delectable doughnuts ..................................................................... 42 5 confectioneries for classic Hungarian cakes ...............................................44 Explainer – Coffeehouse culture ........................................................................46 7 top street-food spots .......................................................................................... 48 5 best hotel brunches ............................................................................................ 50 8

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

CONTENTS

7 great eateries for vegan treats ..........................................................................52 7 irresistible ice-cream outlets ........................................................................... 54 Interview – Grill masters Zsolt Szerényi and Roland Urbán ..................... 56 5 Hungarian restaurants to suit all budgets ................................................... 58 6 fine-dining destinations with Michelin stars .............................................60

ART & CULTURE (62-77) 7 major museums to discover culture old and new .................................... 64 Explainer – 100 years of Bauhaus ...................................................................... 66 5 great exhibitions for the summer .................................................................. 68 5 fascinating Hungarians who found fame abroad ...................................... 70 Interview – Mafilm’s Eszter Lányi .......................................................................72 3 cool art-house cinemas ......................................................................................74 3 open-air museums worth the trek .................................................................75 5 top concert halls ....................................................................................................76

SPAS & SPORT (78-91) 5 top hotel spas ........................................................................................................80 5 best places for outdoor exercise ..................................................................... 82 Explainer – How to spa ......................................................................................... 84 5 cool open-air pools ............................................................................................. 86 3 extreme sports close to town .......................................................................... 88 3 legendary Budapest spas you must visit ..................................................... 89 5 spots for waterside relaxation .........................................................................90 SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

CONTENTS

100

110

SHOPS & MARKETS (92-107) 5 ideas for alternative Budapest souvenirs ....................................................94 Explainer – From farm to ruin bar ..................................................................... 96 3 key zero-waste shops ......................................................................................... 98 3 historic market halls ........................................................................................... 99 5 stores for sought-after vinyl ..........................................................................100 Interview – Nanushka fashion designer Sandra Sándor ...........................102 5 cool Hungarian fashion designers ................................................................ 104 3 boutiques for sweet treats .............................................................................. 106 3 top spots for Communist-era finds ...............................................................107

BARS & NIGHTLIFE (108-125) 5 rooftop bars for spectacular views ............................................................... 110 7 drinking destinations dedicated to craft beer ............................................112 Explainer – Party time .......................................................................................... 114 7 lively ruin bars with hidden courtyards ...................................................... 116 5 winning wine bars with terraces ....................................................................118 5 best spots for summer cocktails ....................................................................120 Interview – DJ Isu ....................................................................................................122 3 prime party places with live music ...............................................................124 3 hot hangouts for drinking by the Danube ..................................................125

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

CONTENTS

130

144

EVENTS & FESTIVALS (126-137) 5 best summer festivals .......................................................................................128 7 unusual attractions at the Sziget Festival ...................................................130 Explainer – Happy birthday, Hungary! ............................................................ 132 3 exciting events for sports fans ........................................................................134 3 key cultural festivals ..........................................................................................135 7 top concerts for the summer ..........................................................................136

AROUND BUDAPEST (138-167) Around Budapest map ......................................................................................... 140 Useful information .................................................................................................142 Danube Bend ........................................................................................................... 144 8 great ideas for a Danube Bend weekend ................................................... 146 7 best sights and attractions ...............................................................................150 Explainer: Hungary’s Friday Kahlo ....................................................................152 7 best hotels and lodgings ...................................................................................154 7 recommended restaurants ..............................................................................156 7 wonderful waterfront spots ............................................................................158 Etyek .......................................................................................................................... 160 10 great things to discover in Etyek .................................................................162 Gödöllő ...................................................................................................................... 164 10 great things to discover in Gödöllő..............................................................166

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

USEFUL INFOR MATION

BUDAPEST is the capital of Hungary. Visitors from the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days. The Hungarian currency is the forint. Currently, there are about 320 forints to €1, 370 forints to £1 and 280 forints to $1. A beer costs about 700 forints/€2.20. Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter. Most service staff speak English.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

USEFUL INFOR MATION

FROM THE AIRPORT Your flight to Budapest Airport (bud.hu) will arrive into terminals 2A or 2B in adjacent buildings. Terminal 1 is closed. Exiting terminal 2, you see a line of people waiting by the taxi kiosk. Taxis are run by Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu). To reach central Budapest, Főtaxi charges about 8,500 forints (€26). Past the taxi booth, a crowd will be milling around a bus stop. Alongside, a ticket machine, with an English-language option, accepts cash (in forints) and credit cards, and gives change. The two buses here require different tickets. Swifter but less frequent 100E requires a 900-forint (€2.80) ticket – look out for the aeroplane logo on the machine. This runs every 20 minutes into the city centre, calling at Kálvin tér, Astoria and Deák tér. The last bus sets off at 1:20am. Allow 40min to 1hr journey time. SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

USEFUL INFOR MATION

If you’re travelling to the airport from town early in the morning, the first 100E bus leaves Deák tér at 5am, calling at Kálvin tér shortly afterwards. The other airport bus stop is for the 200E, running every 7 minutes, usually to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (journey time 25min). As blue metro line M3 is partly under repair, currently the bus then runs further into town to Nagyvárad tér. The 200E bus requires a standard BKK transport ticket (350 HUF/€1.10), as does the onward journey from the metro station. The Airport Shuttle provided by miniBUD (minibud.hu) is a door-todoor transfer service. For 1 person, it costs 5,460 forints/€17 into the centre – for two, it makes more sense to get a taxi.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

USEFUL INFOR MATION

AROUND THE CITY Budapest has four metro lines, and an efficient and extensive network of trams, buses, night buses and trolleybuses, overseen by BKK. Nearly all locations around the city are close to a stop or station of some kind, alongside a timetable posted up and adhered to. The same tickets are valid for each of these forms of transport, including night buses, 350 forints/€1.10 for 1, 3,000 forints/€9.30 for ten. Stamp once you enter the metro station or board. Buying a ticket from the driver costs 450 forints/€1.40. There are passes for 24hrs, 72hrs, and so on. Other forms of transport, including boats, may require different tickets – check with bkk.hu. SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

INTRODUCTION

DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK

PEST BUDA DISTRICT V DISTRICT I

DISTRICT VII

DISTRICT VIII

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST KEY DISTRICTS DISTRICT I Best accessed by funicular from Clark Ádám tér at Chain Bridge, the Castle District offers tourist sights and panoramic views amid cobbled streets. Buda Castle, Fishermen’s Bastion, Matthias Church DISTRICT V Downtown Budapest features the showcase street of Váci utca, parallel to the elegant tram-lined Danube bank. Between Parliament and the Basilica lies the business quarter. Parliament, Basilica, tram 2 DISTRICT VI & CITY PARK The grand boulevard of Andrássy út passes the Opera and the city’s theatre district on its way up to Heroes’ Square and the City Park beyond. Széchenyi Baths, House of Terror, Heroes’ Square DISTRICT VII Budapest’s revived Jewish Quarter is the city’s party hub, typified by the thronging Gozsdu Udvar passageway and numerous ruin bars. Great Synagogue, Gozsdu Udvar, ruin bars DISTRICT VIII Discerning locals do their drinking in this slightly edgier zone, with a student buzz in the Palace Quarter behind the National Museum. National Museum, Keleti station, Kerepesi cemetery

FOLD-OUT MAP In the back of this book you’ll find a fold-out map. Each of our recommended destinations has been marked with a circled reference point 1A This pinpoints its location on the fold-out map.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Buda Castle

INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST’S 10 BEST SIGHTS 1A BUDA CASTLE Crowning Castle Hill, this sprawling palace is one of the city’s most emblematic landmarks, housing the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum. District I. Szent György tér 2 1B CHAIN BRIDGE Bookended by lions, Budapest’s first permanent river crossing is a postcard superstar. Stroll across it if you can as it’s due to close for renovation at some point in 2019. 1C GREAT SYNAGOGUE Budapest’s splendid Great Synagogue is one of the largest Jewish houses of worship in the world. The garden contains a touching Holocaust memorial, the Tree of Life. District VII. Dohány utca 2. dohany-zsinagoga.hu 1D HEROES’ SQUARE Flanked by two stately galleries, Heroes’ Square features a half-moon colonnade of statues, the 14 key figures from Hungarian history and seven Magyar chieftains. District XIV. Hősök tere

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTRODUCTION

1E HOUSE OF TERROR On grand Andrássy út, the House of Terror occupies the same building where political prisoners were tortured by brutal régimes. A chilling but gripping attraction. District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu 1F MATTHIAS CHURCH With bright Zsolnay tiles, this is a Gothic rebuild of the medieval church where King Mátyás was wed. Architect Frigyes Schulek also created Fishermen’s Bastion nearby. District I. Szentháromság tér. matyas-templom.hu 1G MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Revamped and reopened in 2018, this stately institution hosts relics from Ancient Egypt, works by Old Masters and major temporary exhibitions such as Michelangelo in 2019. District XIV. Dósza György út 41. szepmuveszeti.hu 1H NATIONAL MUSEUM Lending its name to the boulevard alongside, the National Museum shows the history of Hungary in two parts, as well as the must-see Coronation Mantle worn by Stephen I. District VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16. mnm.hu 1I PARLIAMENT Take a tour around the stunning neo-Gothic Parliament, Europe’s second largest and one of the city’s finest architectural landmarks. Free entry on St Stephen’s Day, August 20th. District V. Kossuth Lajos tér 1-3. latogatokozpont.parlament.hu 1J ST STEPHEN’S BASILICA Dominating a central square, the Basilica contains the holy right hand of Stephen I, carried out in procession on August 20th. Enjoy panoramic views from the dome. District V. Szent István tér 1. bazilika.biz SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST’S 10 BEST SUMMER EXPERIENCES Admire a panorama From Castle Hill, Citadella or even a rooftop bar, see Budapest and the Danube spread out before you and pose for that classic selfie shot.

Chill at a Liberty Bridge picnic Over four weekends in July, Budapest’s historic central span, Liberty Bridge, turns into a carfree hangout attracting lively crowds for picnics, concerts and lounging above the river. Join in the fun!

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTRODUCTION

Enjoy fine wine and top cuisine With six Michelin-starred restaurants, a full range of superb Hungarian wines and any number of cafĂŠs, bistros and eateries, Budapest is now a key dining destination.

Go wild at Sziget Let your freak flag fly at this week-long music festival that takes over an island north of Budapest. Star guests for 2019 including Ed Sheeran and The National.

Party in a ruin bar Let loose with a lively crowd amid the bizarre but convivial surroundings of a classic ruin bar, set within an atmospheric building or courtyard.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

INTRODUCTION

Ride tram 2 Gawp at the moving panorama of the Danube, bridges and historic sights of Buda as this scenic streetcar follows the Pest embankment alongside the city centre.

Sip a rooftop cocktail Atop a luxury hotel or revamped historic department store, prime cocktails and nibbles are served with a jaw-dropping panorama to admire as you imbibe and snack.

Soak in a spa Nowhere else but Budapest can offer so many ornate outdoor spas around the city centre, from the grandiose SzĂŠchenyi by City Park to the historic GellĂŠrt over in Buda. 22

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTRODUCTION

Take a boat tour By day or night, with or without dinner, music and wine, sightseeing boats ply the Danube for passengers to admire Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most stunning capital.

Visit a historic coffeehouse Amid gilded mirrors and elegant chandeliers, sip fine coffee and enjoy a slice of cake where a Hungarian literary great may have composed a century or more ago.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Tropicarium

INTRODUCTION

BUDAPEST WITH KIDS 2A ANDRÁSSY ÉLMÉNYKÖZPONT At a prime central location, this interactive wonderland fills a former department store with fun, educational games recently themed around dinosaurs, space and sport. District VI. Andrássy út 39. andrassyelmenykozpont.hu 2B AQUAWORLD One of the largest aquaparks in Central Europe, AquaWorld comprises 15 fun pools, 11 slides and a sauna, alongside a family-friendly hotel with its own spa facilities. District IV. Íves út 16. aquaworldresort.hu 2C BUDAPEST ZOO You can time your visit around the many feeding times here, or just take a wander around the Savannah Zone, the large lake teeming with birdlife or the Crocodile House. District XIV. Állatkerti körút 6-12. zoobudapest.com

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTRODUCTION

2D CHILDREN’S RAILWAY Driven by a grown-up, staffed by kids, the famed Children’s Railway runs through the Buda Hills, enthusiastically whistled and signalled at each station by young guards. District II. Hűvösvölgy. gyermekvasut.hu 2E CSOPA At a larger location in Óbuda, the rebranded CsoPa, aka Palace of Wonders, offers a world of discovery with interactive exhibitions, optical illusions and a 9D cinema. District III. Bécsi út 38. csopa.hu 2F CYBERJUMP TRAMPOLINE PARK Atop the Új Buda Center, Cyberjump allows kids to bounce around to their heart’s content for one- and two-hour time slots. Also offers dodgeball field and sponge pits. District XI. Hengermalom út 19-21. cyberjump.hu 2G MINIVERSUM In this miniature universe, 5,000 figures are dotted around 600 buildings in 14 tiny towns in Budapest and Central Europe, interlinked by 1,300 metres of rail track. District VI. Andrássy út 12. miniversum.hu 2H PALATINUS Budapest’s most popular lido, on Margaret Island, is all the better for a major renovation that brought in new slides, giant ones, twisting ones and musical ones. District XIII. Margaret Island. palatinusstrand.hu 2I SUPERFLY BUDAPEST Try your best backflips, the swinging trapeze or plunge into the foam pits at this expansive trampoline park and soft-play centre near Árpád Bridge in north Pest. District XIII. Süllő utca 8. budapest.superfly.eu 2J TROPICARIUM Sharks, alligators and exotic birds await at this colourful attraction in south Buda. You can stroke rays and stand in tropical rain. Shark feeding time is 3pm on Thursdays. District XXII. Nagytétényi út. tropicarium.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SIGHTS & TOURS Budapest has so many things to see – and so many ways to see them. Stunning bridges span the Danube, served by excursion boats day and night. You can admire the Buda hills from the Children’s Railway, the Pest skyline from Citadella and historic sights from tram 2.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Citadella

SIGHTS & TOURS

5 PERFECT PANORAMIC VIEWS 1A BASILICA Climb 364 steps of a spiral staircase – or just take the lift – to the dome, its 96-metre-tall circular observation deck and all-encompassing views over the city. District V. Szent István tér 1. bazilika.biz 1B BUDAPEST EYE This massive Ferris wheel that once lit up the Champs-Élysées as the Roue de Paris now soars high over central Budapest, providing spectacular views year-round. District V. Erzsébet tér 1C CITADELLA This Habsburg-era fortress crowning Gellért Hill offers a breathtaking vista framed by Budapest’s beautiful bridges, the Royal Palace and the Buda Hills beyond. District I. Gellért Hill

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Fishermen’s Bastion

SIGHTS & TOURS

1D ELIZABETH LOOKOUT TOWER Perched atop the highest point in Budapest, János Hill, this wedding-cake lookout tower rewards those who hike to this lofty site – or take the nearby Chairlift. District XII. János Hill

View from Budapest Eye

1E FISHERMEN’S BASTION This postcard superstar is just as stunning to look at as it is to look out from, providing sparkling vistas over the Danube, the Pest skyline and way into the distance. District I. Szentháromság tér

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

INTERVIEW

Attilvaics

Gyurko

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTERVIEW

The first to set up a live escape room in a small Budapest basement in 2011, Par apark founder Attila Gyurkovics is the forerun ner of the breakout game that swept the city and is now one of its major attractions. WLB: As youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re considered to be the founding father of escape games, where did the idea come from? AGy: I used to play a lot of mys tery-solving and pointand-click games online to prac tise my English, and after a while I thought that this wou ld really work in real life, in a physical environment. Afte r that, I just couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop thinking about it and looked at the idea from every angle. Firs t, I dreamed about somethi ng even bigger, a whole mansion full of mys tery, but then I decided that a one-ho ur gameplay for groups was the bes t plan. I opened my first room, Studio 113, in the sum mer of 2011, and from then on, it all just took off.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 BEST CITY STROLLS 2A CASTLE DISTRICT This UNESCO World Heritage site is easily reached by funicular for a walk around Gothic-style Matthias Church, panoramic Fishermen’s Bastion and the National Gallery. District I 2B JEWISH DISTRICT Towered above by the Great Synagogue, this central quarter is dotted with memorials linked to its role as the war-time Jewish Ghetto. Today, bright murals and ruin bars also feature. District VII

Castle District

2C PALACE QUARTER A hub of noblemen’s residences in the 1800s is now a quarter sought after for its terrace cafés, the National Museum and a hidden mural created by the renowned Károly Lotz. District VIII

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Children’s Railway

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 BUDGET-FRIENDLY WAYS FOR BREEZY SIGHTSEEING BY BKK BOAT Thanks to the four boat lines run by publictransport network BKK, you can cruise the Danube for under €3, your journey doubling up as an affordable sightseeing tour. bkk.hu/en/timetables 3A BY CHAIRLIFT A 15-minute ride in a twin-seater whisks you up the steep slopes of János Hill topped by a lookout tower – the highest point in town – while providing fine views over Buda. bkk.hu/en/timetables/#Libegő 3B BY CHILDREN’S RAILWAY Chugging by some of the best excursion spots in Buda, the Children’s Railway is staffed by youngsters aged ten to 14, while a little adult supervision keeps things on track. gyermekvasut.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Gellért Baths

SIGHTS & TOURS

5 BEST ART NOUVEAU LANDMARKS 4A GELLÉRT Recently celebrating its centenary, the Gellért is a revered riverside landmark of hotel and baths, planned before World War I when Art Nouveau was at its height. District XI. Kelenhegyi út 4. gellertfurdo.hu 4B GRESHAM PALACE This former insurance building, restored to its former glory as a five-star hotel, is a fine example of Art Nouveau, gracing the square overlooking the Chain Bridge. District V. Széchenyi István tér 5-6. fourseasons.com/budapest 4C HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN ART NOUVEAU Also called the Bedő House after its former owner, this is still the residence of his heirs, functioning as an Art Nouveau museum and independent gallery, Art+Text. District V. Honvéd utca 3. magyarszecessziohaza.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Gellért Hotel

SIGHTS & TOURS

4D HUNGARIAN STATE TREASURY Art Nouveau pioneer Ödön Lechner decorated the State Treasury with features indicating the function of the building: bees, beehives and dragons guarding treasure. District V. Hold utca 4. allamkincstar.gov.hu

Museum of Applied Arts

4E MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS Though currently closed for renovation, you can still admire this extraordinary Art Nouveau construction from the outside, in particular its bright green Zsolnay roof. District IX. Üllői út 33-37. imm.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

ALL ABOARD THE CHILDREN’S RAILWAY! Chugging along the ridge of the Buda Hills, the Children’s Railway (Gyermekvasút) is one of Budapest’s most unique attractions, a rolling relic staffed by youngsters. A rare popular remnant of the Communist era, it was introduced in 1948, when scores of other so-called pioneer railways were being set up across the Soviet Union and Eastern bloc. Budapest’s covers a scenic path along nine stops between Széchenyi Hill and Hűvösvölgy, its narrow-gauge line crossing with the Cogwheel Railway and serving popular excursion sites Normafa and János Hill. While grown-ups drive the train, all other services are carried out by uniformed schoolchildren, some in red caps, who check tickets and act as guards. Lookout points, forest playgrounds, places of pilgrimage and other hilly attractions lie close to certain stops, making the Children’s Railway the ideal jumping-off point for a day’s outing. Tickets can be purchased at each station – from a young volunteer, of course.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 BEST TRAM RIDES 5A TRAM 2 A panoramic sightseeing tour of its own, this signature yellow streetcar follows the Pest embankment while showcasing Parliament and the spectacular landmarks of Buda. bkk.hu 5B TRAM 19 Hugging the Buda embankment, this riverside service passes major bridges and landmark spas such as the Gellért, the Rudas and the Lukács on its way to distant Óbuda. bkk.hu

Tram 19

5C TRAM 56 All aboard for this journey from Buda transport hubs through leafy slopes all the way to Hűvösvölgy, where you can pick up the Children’s Railway or hike in the hills. bkk.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Redjet

SIGHTS & TOURS

3 WAYS TO SEE BUDAPEST BY SPEEDBOAT DUNARAMA Make out the landmarks on either side of the Danube by day and after dark while whizzing past plodding passenger ferries aboard this exclusive water limousine. dunarama.hu HYDROFOIL The Danube Bend provides the perfect scenic backdrop for a zip up by hydrofoil, taking passengers from Budapest to the historic city of Esztergom in 90 minutes. mahartpassnave.hu REDJET Reach Parliament from Kopaszi-gát in no time by this red watercraft as it swishes and swooshes on a heart-racing trip on the Danube. Tours last 30 minutes – hold on tight! redjet.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

DINING & STREET FOOD Now with six restaurants sporting Michelin stars, a whole range of street-food trucks and a significant number of eateries offering vegan and gluten-free cuisine, Budapest has plenty for diners of every description. Lively breakfast spots, historic coffeehouses and artisanal ice-cream outlets complete the picture.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 BE-DSATY

ALLAKFASTS

Villa Bagatelle

B RE

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

DINING & STREET FOOD

1A À LA MAISON Instagram-worthy breakfasts are served amid French décor until 4.30pm in a downtown location. The croque couple, Eggs Benny, pancakes and waffles are excellent. District V. Szervita tér 3. alamaisongrand.com

Cserpes

CSERPES One of Budapest’s most beloved cafés welcomes late risers with grilled sandwiches, salads, fruit bowls and pastries, also available in a menu, at various locations all day. cserpestejivo.hu

1B SZIMPLA HÁZTÁJI Cup creams, sandwiches, omelettes, pastries and top-notch coffee satisfy your morning cravings at this quality-conscious bohemian hangout by the Szimpla ruin bar. District VII. Kazinczy utca 7. szimpla.eu 1C VILLA BAGATELLE Best for romantic gourmet getaways, the upscale Villa Bagatelle is tucked away amid the greenery of Buda. Palatable breakfast platters await all day long. District XII. Németvölgyi út 17. villa-bagatelle.com 1D ZOSKA This bite-sized breakfast place adorned with bookshelves and shabby-chic décor is super cute. Classic morning favourites feature all day and there’s an indoor picnic spot! District V. Ferenczy István utca 28. zoska.hu SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Wiener Szalon

DINING & STREET FOOD

3 PLACES FOR DELECTABLE DOUGHNUTS THE BOX DONUT The sweet treats here are square-shaped, the range the best in town. Fillings and toppings are generous, combinations exotic and your order comes with a lovely message. Districts VI & VIII. facebook.com/theboxdonut THE DONUT LIBRARY Galaxy-coloured glazes, Cookie Monster doughnuts and cinnamon-apple combos – stepping in here, a cavalcade of colours and sweet scents await. At several locations in town. thedonutlibrary.com 2A WIENER SZALON Fusing an ice-cream parlour with a Viennese café, this busy spot behind the Corvin Plaza mall also offers traditional Hungarian doughnuts with classic fillings. District VIII. Corvin sétány 2B. facebook.com/wienerszalon

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

ONLINE!

At We Love Budapest, we cover the city every day with bright, original, independent content in English. Our previews, reviews and interviews focus on every new opening and happening in Hungaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant capital. As market leader, at welovebudapest.com/en we have 43,000 followers on Facebook, over 91,000 on Instagram and more than 14,000 followers on Twitter. Join us!

welovebudapest.com/en

New York Café

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 CONFECTIONERIES FOR CLASSIC HUNGARIAN CAKES 3A DAUBNER Founded in 1901, Buda’s Daubner attracts sweet-toothed guests citywide for its Esterházy torte and Christmas roulade stuffed with poppy seed, the revered bejgli. District II. Szépvölgyi út 50. daubnercukraszda.hu 3B GERBEAUD Adorned with ornate stucco, this iconic café dates back to the mid-1800s and sells the most artfully crafted zserbó in town, a legacy of the legendary Emil Gerbeaud. District V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8. gerbeaud.hu 3C NEW YORK CAFÉ Try a Somlói sponge cake or a strudel selection amid gilded, marble surfaces and frescos at this historic coffeehouse, considered one of the most beautiful in the world. District VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11. newyorkcafe.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Szamos

DINING & STREET FOOD

3D RUSZWURM Always packed with tourists visiting the Castle District, 200-year-old Ruszwurm elevates krémes to new heights, applying a layer of custard to a fine puff-pastry base. District I. Szentháromság utca 7. ruszwurm.hu

Gerbeaud

SZAMOS Known for its artful marzipan manufacture, chain confectionery Szamos also prides itself on its ischler, a coupling of cookies dipped in chocolate and filled with jam. Various venues. szamos.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

COFFEEHOUSE CULTURE Budapest’s ornate coffeehouses are part of its urban history. Their fin-de-siècle splendour echoes a coffee-drinking culture that came with the Ottomans and pre-dated the cafés of Paris. Many were literary haunts, essential to the rise of a Hungarian culture in a city dominated by German until Budapest developed as a dual capital in its own right. Here writers could spend a whole day over a single espresso, dispatching their articles written at a coffeehouse table over to their newspaper offices. In 1900, Budapest contained 600 coffeehouses, including the grandiose New York Café, where filmmakers and potential starlets would mingle before Hollywood beckoned. Mihály Kertész, later director of Casablanca, was a regular. Today, you can still sit and sip amid its gilded grandeur. The Centrál in town, Hadik in Buda and the Művész on Andrássy út have all been revamped with reverence for their cultural heritage – note the foundation date of 1887 and portraits of Hungary’s literary greats as you enter the Centrál.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Vegan Garden

DINING & STREET FOOD

7 TOP STREET-FOOD SPOTS 4A BPBARBQ Tattooed chef and TV star Zsolt Serényi works with traditional methods, smokers and wood-fired ovens to provide superb pulled-pork sandwiches, burgers and ribs. District VII. bpbarbq.com 4B DIGÓ Tantalisingly located by the late-night Akvárium Klub, Digó lathers its classic Neapolitan pizzas with San Marzano tomatoes before applying toppings of equal quality. A riverside branch has also opened on the Római part. District V. Erzsébet tér 12. digopizza.hu 4C KARAVÁN A veritable caravanserai of street-food outlets lining a courtyard by the Szimpla ruin bar, where fun seekers devour burgers, authentically tasty Thai soups and Mexican faves. District VII. Kazinczy utca 18. facebook.com/streetfoodkaravan

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

DINING & STREET FOOD

4D LÁNGOSH By the busy Gozsdu Udvar, Lángosh offers the Magyar staple of the same name, a Frisbee-sized disc of deep-fried dough, coated with sour cream and cheese or other toppings. District VII. Király utca 13. facebook.com/langoshgozsdu 4E RAMENKA In its self-proclaimed bid to make the party zone ‘noisy with slurping’, Ramenka provides six kinds of hearty ramen soups for takeaway or sit-down consumption. District VII. Kazinczy utca 9. ramenka.hu 4F VEGAN GARDEN Reopened this March with a weekend of culinary events at the Rácskert, this popular purveyor of alfresco vegan eats gathers several outlets in one courtyard garden. District VII. Dob utca 40. facebook.com/vegangardenbp

Ramenka

ZING Budapest’s most popular burgers, prime drivers behind the city’s street-food revolution, provide irresistible aromas by the main party and shopping spots around town. Various venues. zingburger.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 BEST HOTEL BRUNCHES 5A ARAZ Sunday Bubbles currently combines Áron Barka’s culinary creations with unlimited sparkling wine, wine and beer, along with a discounted menu offer for under-12s. Continental Hotel/District VII. Dohány utca 42-44. araz.hu 5B CORSO Go gourmet for Sunday brunch by the Danube, with carnivorous delights from the carving station, irresistible desserts, a kids’ corner and free parking for diners. InterContinental Hotel/District V. Apáczai Csere János utca 12-14. corso.hu 5C DNB BUDAPEST Chefs Konstantinos Kranakis and Roland Varga showcase their skills for the family-friendly weekend brunches at this newly opened hotel restaurant by the Danube. Marriott Hotel/ District V. Apáczai Csere János utca 4. marriott.com 5D PARIS BUDAPEST Taking its lead from the freshness and variety found at French markets, Paris Budapest goes big on sauces, spices and salads to add pizzazz to mighty mains. Sofitel/District V. Széchenyi István tér 2. parisbudapest.hu 5E TOPRUM Between noon and 3pm all weekend, enjoy an exotic brunch with cocktails while gazing over Budapest from this panoramic sky-bar vantage point in the city centre. Hotel Rum/District V. Királyi Pál utca 4. toprumbudapest.com

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Corso

DINING & STREET FOOD

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Fill Good

DINING & STREET FOOD

7 GREAT EATERIES FOR VEGAN TREATS 6A FILL GOOD Soft scones, piquant pizza slices and scrumptious cacao rolls make up the merchandise of the city’s first vegan bakery, conveniently located near main tram line 4/6. District XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 3. facebook.com/fillgoodvegan 6B GREAT BISTRO A lengthy queue around lunchtime is evidence of a sustainable venture geared around a prix-fixe menu and Saturday brunch events, all vegan, of course. Home delivery, too. District V. Bank utca 6. greatbistro.hu 6C NAPFÉNYES Traditional restaurant Napfényes has a vegan take on classic Hungarian dishes, including stuffed cabbage and bean goulash. Pizza, raw food and sweets also feature. District V. Ferenciek tere 2. napfenyesetterem.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

DINING & STREET FOOD

6D SZABAD BISTRO Beers, Baileys and brandy are prepared according to vegan guidelines at this casual pub-style hangout that also serves hot dogs, burgers and Hungarian goulash. District VII. Király utca 101. facebook.com/Szabad.vegan.bistro 6E TÖKMAG A beetroot patty and pumpkin-seed cream go into the signature Tökmag burgers, served on eco-friendly paper trays. Pre-packaged lunch boxes and soups are also available. District XIII. Hollán Ernő utca 5. facebook.com/tokmagvegan 6F VEGAN LOVE Smoky tofu steak, dairy-free cheddar and vegan bacon are just a few of the plant-based ingredients that enhance the handheld treats at Buda’s favourite burger bar. District XI. Bartók Béla út 9. veganlove.hu

Szabad Bistro

6G VEGAZZI Thin-crust Neapolitan pizza, funghi, messicano or marinara, are offered with a twist at this Italian-style vegan eatery, found within the Anker’t ruin pub downtown. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 33. vegazzi.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Artigiana Gelati

DINING & STREET FOOD

7 IRRESISTIBLE ICE-CREAM OUTLETS 7A ARTIGIANA GELATI Find original Italian delights near the Buda transport hub of Széll Kálmán tér, where flavours such as spicy cherry and creamy fig complement many lactose-free options. District XII. Csaba utca 8 7B CIOCCOLATTE Ginger-mascarpone? Piemonte hazelnut? Scoop up a real Italian treat at Cioccolatte, where some of the creamy concoctions come with goats’ milk – or try a fruity sorbet. District XIII. Pozsonyi út 7. facebook.com/cioccolattefagylaltozo 7C ERDŐS ÉS FIAI Over in Buda, this family-run outlet recently celebrated its seventh birthday by offering new flavours such as cardamom, along with its ever-popular triple pistachio. District XI. Etele tér 3. erdosesfiai.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

DINING & STREET FOOD

7D ESPRESSOUL Taking over from the famed Damniczki operation in 2018, Espressoul also offers premium-quality ice creams in a whole range of flavours, along with new-wave coffee. District V. Hercegprimás utca 17. facebook.com/espressoulbudapest 7E GELARTO ROSA Bologna-trained Niki Szökrön cultivated this original enterprise by St Stephen’s Basilica, where fine ice creams are artfully fashioned into shapes of roses. District V. Szent István tér 3. gelartorosa.com 7F GELATERIA POMO D’ORO On Via Italia, a downtown enclave of fine food and wine, authentic ice cream comes in your favourite flavours such as salty caramel, with a few surprises thrown in. District V. Arany János utca 12. gelateria.pomodorobudapest.com

Galateria Pomo D’oro

7G ICESHOT After a successful 2018 in the party zone, these creators of cocktail-laced ice cream set up at Bálna Budapest by the Danube in April. Whisky and dark chocolate, anyone? District IX. Bálna Budapest, Fővám tér. iceshot.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

INTERVIEW

Zsoltyi Serén

Roland Urbán

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTERVIEW

Zsolt Serényi and Roland Urb án opened BpBAR Bq on Akácfa utca bac k in 2016. WLB: Yours was the first outl et in Budapest especially dedicated to BBQ. Did you thin k it would be this successful? BpBARBq: We hoped so. We wanted to have a relaxed, homely place where everythi ng was about the grill, the mea t, nice drinks and friendly hospita lity. We have our own style, we work a lot and we love wha t we do. We’re happy to say that many became familiar with BBQ cuisine through us. WLB: What’s the difference between a grill and BBQ technology? BpBARBq: There is no definitio n that can accurately describ e it. A grill cooks at a high tem perature, while a BBQ finds a uniform, happy medium. We prepare at around 90-120° C. Common to both procedures is the natural fuel: wood and charcoal. We use a smoker and charcoal so that the smoke doesn’t escape, it’s easier to deal with and there’s less chance of mis takes. For the charcoal, we mix different kind s of incense wood to make the flavour more exciting.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

DINING & STREET FOOD

5 HUNGARIAN RESTAURANTS TO SUIT ALL BUDGETS 8A GETTÓ GULYÁS Varied pörkölt stews, chicken, beef, venison, even rooster-testicle, are cooked to perfection at Gettó Gulyás, using old-time recipes and regional ingredients. District VII. Wesselényi utca 18. facebook.com/gettogulyas 8B GLÉDA Wine and dine in a classy setting at family-friendly Gléda, evoking local gastronomy heritage with catfish stew, mangalica pork and the famed floating island for dessert. District III. Mikoviny utca 2-4. gledavendeglo.eu 8C GUNDEL Having hosted acclaimed guests from Queen Elizabeth II to Jennifer Lawrence, the legendary Gundel is where goulash and goose liver are created with 21st-century style. District XIV. Gundel Károly út 4. gundel.hu 8D ROSENSTEIN Hungarian fish soup and breaded meat are augmented with classic Jewish dishes at family-run Rosenstein, an acclaimed dining destination in a side street near Keleti station. District VIII. Mosonyi utca 3. rosenstein.hu 8E STAND25 BISTRO Overseen by a Michelin-starred chef duo, this corner outlet at the storied Downtown Market is where Budapest’s top goulash is served from Mondays to Saturdays. District V. Hold utca 13. stand25.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Rosenstein

DINING & STREET FOOD

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Onyx

DINING & STREET FOOD

6 FINE-DINING DESTINATIONS WITH MICHELIN STARS 9A BABEL Crowned with a Michelin star in spring 2019, the everinventive Babel showcases the ambition of owner Hubert HlatkySchlichter and the skill of chef István Veres. District V. Piarista köz 2. babel-budapest.hu 9B BORKONYHA Fine Hungarian wines, some 200 in number, match with the seasonal, contemporary cuisine of Ákos Sárközi at this informal yet top-notch downtown dining destination. District V. Sas utca 3. borkonyha.hu 9C 9D COSTES/COSTES DOWNTOWN Budapest’s first winner of a Michelin star, Costes is headed by dynamic chef Eszter Palágyi, a protégée of Miguel Rocha Vieira. Costes Downtown also anointed by Michelin. District IX Ráday utca 4/V. Vigyázó Ferenc utca 5. costes.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Borkonyha

DINING & STREET FOOD

9E ONYX Bestowed with two Michelin stars, Onyx shares the same location as the historic Gerbeaud, head chef Ádám Mészáros pleasing high-paying diners with elaborate menus. District V. Vörösmarty tér 7. onyxrestaurant.hu

Costes Downtown

9F STAND Culinary duo Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll, who won Michelin stars at Onyx, set up this superb Hungarian restaurant in 2018 after the success of Stand25 downtown. District VI. Székely Mihály utca 2. standrestaurant.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

ART & CULTURE Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty in Budapest to engage and entertain the Englishspeaking visitor, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a stunning exhibition at a stately museum, live jazz, an independent film at an art-house cinema or a world-renowned symphony orchestra at a gilded palace of classical music.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

ART & CULTUR E

7 MAJOR MUSEUMS TO DISCOVER CULTURE OLD AND NEW 1A BUDAPEST HISTORY MUSEUM The city’s turbulent centuries are brought to life in Building E of Buda Castle, where you’ll also find medieval remnants of the royal palace and Gothic sculptures. District I. Szent György tér 2. btm.hu 1B HOUSE OF TERROR MUSEUM The darkest aspects of the Communist dictatorship and the Holocaust are amply chronicled within the former headquarters of the Secret Police, where victims were routinely tortured. District VI. Andrássy út 60. terrorhaza.hu

Museum of Fine Arts

1C HUNGARIAN NATIONAL GALLERY Filling four wings of Buda Castle, A-D, the National Gallery contains the cream of Hungarian art from medieval Gothic to 20th-century avant-garde and beyond. District I. Szent György tér 2. mng.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Hungarian National Gallery

ART & CULTUR E

1D HUNGARIAN NATIONAL MUSEUM From prehistoric stonecarved tools to the coronation mantle worn by Hungary’s first king, St Stephen, a diverse collection is contained within this stately landmark. District VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16. mnm.hu 1E KUNSTHALLE Flanking Heroes’ Square, this museum of contemporary arts showcases seasonal displays, introducing all aspects of visual culture by established and aspiring artists. District XIV. Dózsa György út 37. mucsarnok.hu 1F LUDWIG MUSEUM An exhibition space for modern and contemporary art, the riverside Ludwig celebrates its 30th anniversary in 2019, after three decades of staging innovative creation. District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. ludwigmuseum.hu 1G MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS Recently overhauled, this key institution presents relics from Ancient Egypt and artworks by Old Masters. The revamp also unveiled the fine murals of the Roman Hall. District XIV. Dózsa György út 41. szepmuveszeti.hu SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

100

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

100 YEARS OF BAUHAUS The Ludwig Museum, the National Gallery and the Mai Manó House are only three of the major Budapest galleries hosting special exhibitions to celebrate the centenary of Bauhaus, the arts and crafts movement that influenced design and architecture between the wars. First based in Weimar, Germany, Bauhaus was an art school founded by Walter Gropius whose aim was to improve people’s lives through functional, accessible design. Among its teachers were painters Paul Klee and Wassily Kandinsky, and Hungarian painter/photographer László MoholyNagy, who today lends his name to Budapest’s renowned university of art and design, MOME. After the Nazis closed the Bauhaus school in 1933, Gropius and Moholy-Nagy fled abroad, eventually to America, but in Budapest, their influence flourished. Churches, villas and residential buildings display this style, most notably on Napraforgó utca and in Pasarét in District II.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Museum of Fine Arts

ART & CULTUR E

5 GREAT EXHIBITIONS FOR THE SUMMER 2A FEKETE LYUK Posters, videos and filmed interviews honour Budapest’s most notorious punk club, in a cellar of a former monastery and Baroque landmark in Óbuda. Kiscelli Museum/District III. Kiscelli utca 108. kiscellimuzeum.hu. Until 23 June 2B THE TRIUMPH OF THE BODY The draughtsmanship of Michelangelo and his contemporaries is illustrated in 80 drawings, some accompanied by full-length slides of frescoes only seen in Italy. Museum of Fine Arts/District XIV. Dózsa György út 41. mfab.hu. Until 30 June 2C BAUHAUS 100 ABSTRACT REVUE Focusing on Andor Weininger, this exhibition celebrates the Bauhaus centenary, showcasing the Hungarian artist who worked at the Weimer school. Hungarian National Gallery/District I. Szent György tér 2. mng.hu. Until 28 July

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Bauhaus 100

ART & CULTUR E

2D BAUHAUS 100 PROGRAMME FOR THE NOW Perhaps the most wide-reaching of the many exhibitions marking the Bauhaus centenary, the Ludwig’s reinterprets the artistic vision that followed World War I. Ludwig Museum/District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. ludwigmuseum.hu. Until 25 Aug

The Triumph of the Body

2E THE SURREALIST MOVEMENT FROM DALÍ TO MAGRITTE. CRISIS AND REBIRTH IN 1929 Works by Dalí, Magritte, Brassaï, Picasso, Miró and Max Ernst illustrate the seminal year of 1929. Hungarian National Gallery/District I. Szent György tér 2. mng.hu. 27 June-20 Oct

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Ferenc Puskรกs

ART & CULTUR E

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

ART & CULTUR E

5 FASCINATING HUNGARIANS WHO FOUND FAME ABROAD ROBERT CAPA Covering five wars, Endre Friedmann is the world’s most celebrated conflict photographer. His name also lives on at the Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Center, a gallery with a lively agenda on Nagymező utca. FRANZ LISZT Often thought to be Austrian, the world’s first rock star, piano prodigy Franz Liszt, declared himself Hungarian and founded the music academy in Budapest that now bears his name. HARRY HOUDINI The greatest escape artist of all time, who amazed audiences the world over with unbelievable acts, was born in Budapest, where a museum now honours his memory. JOSEPH PULITZER Newspaper publisher, former congressman of New York and founder of the most prestigious prize in journalism was born József Pulitzer in Makó, emigrating to America in 1864. FERENC PUSKÁS Arguably the world’s most famous Hungarian, Puskás scored a celebrated goal in his country’s 6-3 win over England in 1953, finding further glory with Real Madrid after 1958. SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

INTERVIEW

E sztyeir Lรก n

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTERVIEW

Eszter Lányi is Head of Trainin g and Innovation at the Hungarian National Film Fund (HNFF) based at Budapest’s Mafilm Studios, helping the next generation of directo rs, editor s and cinematographers take their firs t steps in the real world – a programme cal led Fas t Forward. WLB: How did all this come

about?

EL: We set up this department in 2017. My job here has man y aspects but its focus is to help young Hungarians choose and build careers in the film industry. The HNFF funds skil ls training, we organise summer schools and bring in experts from here and abroad to give workshops and mas terclass es. We do this by liaising with loca l schools and industry experts. We try and be as prac tical as possible, presenting storyboarding, copyright clea rance, pitching ideas and making trailers, all within the Fas t Forward programme. This is an industry that’s cha nging fast and you need to change tack quickly if you’re looking at a long-term care er – which we encourage people to do.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

ART & CULTUR E

3 COOL ART-HOUSE CINEMAS 3A BEM CINEMA A cosy little cinema by the foot of Margaret Bridge in Buda, the revived Bem is focused on screening all-time classics with original audio and Hungarian subtitles. District II. Margit körút 5. facebook.com/BemMozi 3B PUSKIN CINEMA Having turned 90 last autumn, this downtown venue has an elegant old-school charm. Often hosting film festivals, the Puskin usually screens with English subtitles. District V. Kossuth Lajos utca 18. puskinmozi.hu

Toldi Cinema

3C TOLDI CINEMA Dating back to 1932, today this popular cinema transforms into an electronica and live-music spot after the last screening. English-friendly films often feature. District V. Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 36-38. toldimozi.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Memento Park

ART & CULTUR E

3 OPEN-AIR MUSEUMS WORTH THE TREK 4A AQUINCUM Up in Óbuda, this open-air archaeological site allows visitors to stroll amid ancient Roman ruins of former streets, houses, courtyards, a marketplace and public baths. District III. Árpád fejedelem útja 94. aquincum.hu 4B MEMENTO PARK Mammoth statues of Lenin, Marx and heroic workers that once dominated city streets now dot this park on the outskirts of Buda. A daily direct bus runs from Deák tér. District XXII. Balatoni út-Szabadkai utca. mementopark.hu 4C RAILWAY HISTORY PARK In addition to 50 engines, relics such as hand-powered carts and even a teak dining car built for the Orient Express in 1912 feature at this interactive museum. District XIV. Tatai út 95. vasuttortenetipark.hu SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

ART & CULTUR E

5 TOP CONCERT HALLS 5A BUDAPEST MUSIC CENTER Designed for chamber performances, this 300-seat contemporary concert hall features superb acoustics, while the building is also home to the renowned Opus Jazz Club. District IX. Mátyás utca 8. bmc.hu 5B ERKEL THEATRE The sister institution of the Hungarian State Opera, this high-capacity hall has welcomed great names in classical music, such as the Vienna Philharmonic and Toscanini. District VIII. II. János Pál papa tér 30. opera.hu 5C FRANZ LISZT MUSIC ACADEMY Founded by Liszt himself, this famed music conservatory nurtured maestros such as Béla Bartók and Zoltán Kodály. The ornate Grand Hall stages classical concerts. District VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. zeneakademia.hu 5D MÜPA Winner of international architectural awards, south Pest cultural venue Müpa contains the Béla Bartók National Concert Hall, acclaimed for its outstanding acoustics. District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. mupa.hu 5E PESTI VIGADÓ This crown jewel of the Danube Promenade has hosted legendary composers from Strauss to Liszt. Its elegant concert hall attracts classical music stars of global status. District V. Vigadó tér 2. vigado.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Museum of Fine Arts

MÃ¼pa (Photo: Attila Nagy)

ART & CULTUR E

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SPAS & SPORT Spas make Budapest unique, ornate baths around the city centre featuring outdoor pools and the occasional panoramic jacuzzi. Sports enthusiasts will find plenty of activities in the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many parks and green spaces, augmented by waterside relaxation alongside lakes and the river Danube.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SPAS & SPORT

5OTTELOSPPAS

Four Seasons

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SPAS & SPORT

CORINTHIA HOTEL This elegant landmark is embellished with a swimming pool first opened in 1896, as well as a gym, saunas, a steam bath and a jacuzzi. Lavish treatments also feature. District VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49. corinthia.com 1A

Kempinski Hotel

1B FOUR SEASONS GRESHAM PALACE The gorgeous Gresham Palace is a favourite for A-listers. The spa section contains a sun-splashed infinity pool, seven treatment rooms, a sauna and steam cabins. District V. Széchenyi István tér 5. fourseasons.com/Budapest

1C KEMPINSKI HOTEL Right in town, this late-opening spa provides Elemental Herbology treatments and massages, saunas, a steam room, a Kneipp-bench, a tepidarium and an indoor pool. District V. Erzsébet tér 7-8. kempinski.com 1D NEW YORK PALACE This superb spa on the Grand Boulevard features a blue-hued pool, a well equipped gym and treatments inspired by cultural tradition. Two-night spa packages available. District VII. Erzsébet körút 9-11. dahotels.com/new-york-palace-budapest 1E THE RITZ-CARLTON This luxurious central retreat offers a full line of treatments, a 24-hour fitness centre, a sauna, steam room, thermal suites, soaking tub and a glass-roofed pool. District V. Erzsébet tér 9-10. ritzcarlton.com SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SPAS & SPORT

5 BEST PLACES FOR OUTDOOR EXERCISE 2A CITY PARK In the south-east corner of Városliget, a four-lane rubberised running track, an outdoor public gym and a pair of multifunctional ball-game courts were added in 2018. District XIV. Városliget 2B FENEKETLEN LAKE A quiet parkland envelops this Buda-side lake, encircled by a muscle-friendly running track and an area equipped with high-quality fitness machines for serious workouts. District XI

City Park (Photo: Liget Budapest)

2C MARGARET ISLAND The eye-shaped oasis is the first choice for many who want to stay fit by using its five-kilometre scenic running track and the outdoor gym at the island’s southern tip. District XIII

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Feneketlen Lake

SPAS & SPORT

2D NORMAFA A panoramic gym is set high atop the Buda hills where joggers can traverse a two-kilometre tree-shaded running track leading to the city’s highest point on János Hill. District XII

Normafa

2E ORCZY PARK Between Klinikák and Nagyvárad tér metro stops, these grounds feature a street-workout facility, a basketball court, a running track and an adventure park with ziplines. District VIII

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

HOW TO SPA Budapest inherited its spa culture from the Ottomans, whose religious need to ablute was facilitated by an abundant supply of H2O. Around a motherlode of thermal water on the Buda side, the Turks built the Rudas, Király and Lukács baths in the 1500s and 1600s. Rebuilding has been kind, the Rudas retaining its architectural heritage, albeit now topped by a panoramic jacuzzi. It also relaxed its single-sex policy at weekends, just as the nearby Gellért now allows mixed bathing – all other spas in town are co-ed. Swimming costumes are obligatory, a towel useful and flip-flops handy. Find an empty locker for your clothes and close it with the face of the plastic watch provided as you pay – couples may prefer a more intimate kabin. Shower before you sauna and leave your flip-flops outside the door which you should close quickly to avoid reprimand from the sweating regulars. Take in water, beer is a no-no. As in all Ottoman culture, respect is paramount – use your towel to sit on and leave boisterous behaviour for Lake Balaton.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Csillaghegy Baths

SPAS & SPORT

5 COOL OPEN-AIR POOLS 3A AQUAWORLD In summer, a lot of the action moves outside at AquaWorld, a huge complex of waterborne family entertainment. Funpools and slides feature throughout, with a sauna too. District IV. Íves út 16. aquaworldresort.hu 3B CSILLAGHEGYI BATHS Swim laps in forested parkland up in the former Roman outpost of Óbuda, where the Csillaghegyi Baths merge vintage outdoor facilities with a modern indoor pool park. District III. Pusztakúti út 2-4. csillaghegyifurdo.hu 3C LUPA BEACH Out towards Szentendre, Lake Lupa welcomes sunseekers with white sand, comfy loungers, cocktails, parties, palm trees and varied facilities for water sports. Budakalász, Tó utca 1. lupato.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Aquaworld

SPAS & SPORT

Palatinus Baths

3D PALATINUS BATHS Set on Margaret Island, Budapest’s centuryold baths offer a popular five-chute slide area, close to the wave pool that operates every hour. Thermal pools also feature. Margaret Island. palatinusstrand.hu 3E RÓMAI BATHS An outdoor pool with slides, neck-massaging jets, swimming pool and plentiful picnic grounds make this plunge zone a family-friendly favourite near the Danube in Óbuda. District III. Rozgonyi Piroska utca 2. romaistrand.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Indoor Skydiving

SPAS & SPORT

3 EXTREME SPORTS CLOSE TO TOWN 4A INDOOR SKYDIVING The Skyward wind tunnel amid industrial Csepel allows you to experience the feeling of freefalling without jumping out of a plane. Helmet, goggles and training provided. District XXI. Szérűraktár utca 53. skyward.hu 4B PARAGLIDING Beginner’s courses, tandem paragliding for one or two people with an experienced pilot and team building all take place near Hármashatárhegy airport in hilly Buda. District II. Glück Frigyes út. sikloernyostanfolyam.hu 4C WAKEBOARDING Up at Lupa Beach, wakeboarding takes place on weekdays through summer and as part of a five-day training course. Basic sessions last for 15 minutes on the two-lane course. Budakalász, Tó utca 1. lupawake.hu

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SPAS & SPORT

3 LEGENDARY BUDAPEST SPAS YOU MUST VISIT 5A GELLÉRT Within the landmark hotel of the same name, also dating to 1918, these classic baths created in similar Art Nouveau style are an architectural gem and a recreational retreat. District XI. Kellenhegyi út 4. gellertfurdo.hu 5B RUDAS Despite the rooftop pool that came with the 2014 rebuild, the Rudas still echoes its Ottoman heritage thanks to restoration of its interior, including the original cupola. District I. Döbrentei tér 9. rudasfurdo.hu

Gellért wave pool

5C SZÉCHENYI Grandiose façades surround Budapest’s most popular spa baths, their Neo-Baroque touches providing the perfect backdrop for the classic image of chess players in the water. District XIV. Állatkerti körút 9-11. szechenyifurdo.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SPAS & SPORT

5 SPOTS FOR WATERSIDE RELAXATION 6A CITY PARK With a lovely lake, a fake but fairytale historic castle and rolling greenery, City Park couldn’t be more picturesque. Rent a rowboat for a romantic paddle for two. District XIV 6B FENEKETLEN TÓ The Bottomless Lake, believed to plunge deep into the Earth’s crust, is a tranquil green spot in Buda, perfect for a picnic and a walk or jog around the waterfront. District XI 6C KOPASZI GÁT This Buda-side leisure zone, served by public ferry, is popular for its sunbathing spots, thanks to its breezy riverfront location and numerous ice-cream outlets. District XI 6D MARGARET ISLAND How cool is a huge green oasis in the middle of the city? This island has plenty of trees providing pleasant shade, romantic fountains and a lovely Japanese garden. District XIII 6E RÓMAI PART Ideal for tranquil days by the Danube, riverside outlets serving fried fish and cold beer as canoeists glide past. Accessed from town by public boat or a lovely bike ride. District III

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SPAS & SPORT

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SHOPS & MARKETS You can find all kinds of goodies at the boutiques, stores and markets of Budapest, from cutting-edge contemporary fashion to retro relics at distant flea markets. A new trend for zero waste is sweeping town, while historic market halls and old vinyl outlets still keep with tradition.

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

Czakรณ Piacz (source: Dรกvid Horpรกczi)

Urban Sidewalker

SHOPS & MARKETS

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SHOPS & MARKETS

5 IDEAS FOR ALTERNATIVE BUDAPEST SOUVENIRS 1A CITYGRAPH Budapest is beautifully depicted hand-drawn by Béla Magyar in fine detail on map-like graphics. Besides bird’s eye perspectives, surreal artworks also feature. District V. Falk Miksa utca 6. citygraph.net

FOLQA A collection of funny figurines representing traditional Hungarian occupations from shepherding to wine-making, each with a witty message, is available from the webshop. folqa.com SATOR SPACE Pickled cucumber-scented air freshener, urban scarves portraying tram and metro cars, Budapest phonecases and more witty items feature at this waggish online merchandiser. satorspace.com 1B URBAN SIDEWALKER Huge posters of cityscape in miniature scale, postcards, fridge magnets and notebooks created in perfect detail all feature at this treasure trove of talent. District V, Károly körút 10. facebook.com/urbansidewalker

ZSOLT VIDÁK A cavalcade of colours enhance typical Budapest scenes on vibrant and witty illustrations similar to Where’s Waldo? Find Hitchcock, a bear or a shark hiding somewhere. zsoltvidak.com

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

FROM FARM TO RUIN BAR A city of historic trading halls, Budapest also abounds in small-scale markets, where farmers and growers come in from the Hungarian countryside to proffer honey, jam, cheese, sausages, chutney and fresh cakes. These convivial weekend fairs are often set up in ruin bars, where the courtyards of these beautifully dilapidated hangouts are transformed into bustling bazaars, producers engaged in enthusiastic explanations about the crunchy mangalica crackling, mature goats’ cheese, sweet rhubarb cordial or pumpkin-seed bread on offer. Ruin bar supreme Szimpla on a Sunday, and rustic Buda bistro Czakó Kert and the Élesztőház craft-beer pub on Saturdays are all popular fixtures. Look out, too, for the regular Vegan Sunday Market at downtown Anker’t. Workshops, tasting events and cooking activities, even a little live music, add spice to these lively gastronomic gatherings.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 KEY ZERO-WASTE SHOPS 2A LIGETI BOLT BUDA When shopping for groceries in Buda, bring your own containers and canvas bag to fill them with fresh cow’s milk, organic rice or spaghetti, taking no waste with you. District XI. Karinthy Frigyes út 14. csomagolasmentes.hu 2B LIGETI BOLT PEST Budapest’s first zero-waste shop sells olive oil, pasta, vegetables and dairy products, displayed in bulk and free from plastic packaging. Canvas bags available. District XIII. Katona József utca 9-11. csomagolasmentes.hu

Ne pazarolj

2C NE PAZAROLJ Supporting a sustainable lifestyle, bonbons, fruit and oils are sold in loose quantities, while shampoo bars feature no plastic packaging at this eco-friendly Buda store. District II. Fő utca 79. nepazarolj.hu

100

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Downtown Market

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 HISTORIC MARKET HALLS 3A DOWNTOWN MARKET Varied urban treats, street food and full sit-down meals make this landmark market hall a coveted destination for epicureans. Farmers also sell quality produce. District V. Hold utca 13. belvarospiac.hu 3B GREAT MARKET HALL Budapest’s biggest indoor bazaar is housed in a historic building, topped by a Zsolnay-tiled roof. Bathed in natural light, the interior contains classic Hungarian produce. District IX. Vámház körút 1-3 3C KLAUZÁL MARKET HALL A fin-de-siècle building houses a relaxed market in the Jewish Quarter, where farmers sell cheese, fresh bread and prized mangalica pork. A flea market features on Sundays. District VII. Klauzál tér 11. facebook.com/klauzalpiac SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

101

Klinika

SHOPS & MARKETS

102

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SHOPS & MARKETS

5 STORES FOR SOUGHT-AFTER VINYL 4A KLINIKA Opened in 2018, this community hub is part café, part unplugged concert venue, part vinyl outlet, a wide selection of Hungarian indie in cool covers lining the shelves. District XIII. Tátra utca 22. facebook.com/klinikabudapest 4B LEMEZKUCKÓ A classic secondhand vinyl store with reverence for the golden age of pop and rock, spacious ‘Record Nook’ is tucked behind the Király utca tram stop on the Grand Boulevard. District VII. Király utca 67. lemezkucko.hu 4C MUSICLAND Secondhand vinyl galore, in seven- ten- and twelve-inch form, their condition indicated in English acronyms, VG, NM (‘Near Mint’), and so on. Extensive webshop, too. District VII. Almásy tér 8. musicland.hu 4D ROCK IN’ BOX Images of the Beatles outside may lull you into a false sense of familiarity but stock here is obscure, doo-wop and rockabilly offset by Czechoslovak retro. Closed weekends. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 8. rockinbox.net 4E WAVE Flying the black flag for punk, indie and new wave, this long-established outlet also stocks rap, jazz and Soviet releases on the Melodiya label. T-shirts bark punk slogans. District VI. Révay köz 1. wave.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

103

INTERVIEW

re in town, With a flagship concept sto Nanushka Sandra Sándor also shows her hion Week. collections at New York Fas WLB: How did Nanushka dev

elop?

mother work on her SS: Growing up watching my ays thought I would pur sue childrenswear business, I alw I London College of Fashion. this career – so I went to the ka ush Nan te crea to decided moved back to Budapest and me who love to dress like en wom for hing to make clot utiful. Launching a fashion comfortably but still feel bea ital has its own set of brand outside of a fashion cap der to get your name on challenges which makes it har of great talent and because the map. Budapest has a lot e out internationally as a we’ve managed to put our nam hope it also helps others who Budapest-based brand, we that r hard work. I firmly believe deserve recognition for thei has ka ush Nan out. all work if you put in the hours, it will and we’re planning other now rs yea 14 for nd been arou e cities. We’ve just released stores in a few of our favourit and now we’re looking our first menswear collection at the next milestone.

104

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTERVIEW

a r d n Sa r Sรกndo

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

105

Tomcsanyi

SHOPS & MARKETS

5 COOL HUNGARIAN FASHION DESIGNERS 5A ÁERON Born into a textile dynasty, Hungarian designer Eszter Áron makes personal pieces that evoke effortless elegance by combining superb quality and innovative craftsmanship. District V. Zrínyi utca 4. aeron.hu 5B JE SUIS BELLE Founded by Dalma Dévényi and Tibor Kiss, JSB is one of the leading fashion brands in Hungary, innovative techniques bringing in signature looks season after season. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 67. jesuisbelle.hu 5C NANUSHKA A graduate of the London College of Fashion, Sandra Sándor has achieved huge success with her playful, functional brand, showcased at her flagship concept store in town. District V. Bécsi utca 3. nanushka.com

106

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Je Suis Belle

SHOPS & MARKETS

5D NUBU Creating timeless garments and accessories with urban style in mind, Judit Garam and Adél Kovács harmonise a sophisticated design with unique cuts, comfort and function. District VI. Andrássy út 15. nubu.hu

Áeron

5E TOMCSANYI Dóri Tomcsányi combines E-bloc retro chic with edgy minimalism to create iconic womenswear that echoes bygone days. Locally produced, with materials sourced from Italy. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 18. tomcsanyi.eu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

107

Ghraoui Chocolate

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 BOUTIQUES FOR SWEET TREATS 6A GHRAOUI CHOCOLATE Polished glass counters showcase designer bonbons, displayed in stylish gift packages and pieceby-piece, produced by a historic trading family with Syrian roots. District VI. Andrássy út 31. ghraouichocolate.com 6B LES CADEAUX DE FLORE This French Baroque-style confectionery offers chocolates, bonbons, caramels, biscuits and all kinds of sweet seductions in beautifully designed themed gift boxes. District I. Hattyú utca 4. facebook.com/lescadeauxdeflore 6C RÓZSAVÖLGYI An assortment of award-winning chocolates contains crunchy praline, chestnut honey, cardamom, coffee or Earl Grey tea. Real-deal melt-in-your-mouth savour bombs. District V. Királyi Pál utca 6. rozsavolgyi.com

108

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SHOPS & MARKETS

3 TOP SPOTS FOR COMMUNIST-ERA FINDS 7A ANTIK-BAZÁR This Aladdin’s cave of Hungarian retro treasure is a flea market in miniature, with everything from gramophone needles to Brezhnev-era military hats. Great posters, too. District VII. Klauzál utca 1. antik-bazar.hu 7B BAKANCSOS FLEA MARKET Up in Madárdomb, this weekend bazaar offers junk, tat and toot of every stripe. A 15-minute train ride from Keleti to Rákoshegy is the quickest way to reach it. District XVII. Széncinke utca. facebook.com/bakancsospiac 7C ECSERI The mother of all flea markets down in south Pest runs all week but fills at weekends. Take bus 54 or 55 from Boráros tér and alight at Naszód utca 20 minutes away. District XIX. Nagykőrösi út 156. facebook.com/ecseribazar

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

109

BARS & NIGHTLIFE Summer sees Budapest move outdoors to gather at rooftop cocktail spots, courtyard ruin bars, riverside party places and terrace wine bars. The thirst for craft beer hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t yet been slaked, live music is on the up and the buzz around the nightlife zone is livelier than ever.

110

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

111

Leo Budapest

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5 ROOFTOP BARS FOR SPECTACULAR VIEWS 1A 360 BAR Take in an all-encompassing panorama of the city’s skyline from the chic 360 Bar, atop the historic Paris Department Store. Enjoy DJ nights, cocktails and fine bites. District VI. Andrássy út 39. 360bar.hu 1B HIGH NOTE SKYBAR Summer never ends at the hip High Note, crowning the deluxe Aria Hotel and offering prime views of the massive dome of the Basilica. Reservations recommended. District V. Hercegprímás utca 5. highnoteskybar.hu 1C INTERMEZZO ROOF TERRACE A former helipad above the Hotel President is now a panoramic bar, where guests enjoy bubbly conversation over fizzy drinks and palatable bites after sundown. District V. Hold utca 3-5. hotelpresident.hu

112

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

High Note Skybar

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

1D LEO BUDAPEST Backdrop your champagne toast with fine views of the Chain Bridge from lofty Leo, the jewel in the crown of the Hotel Clark, elite among Buda’s riverfront locales. District I. Clark Ádám tér 1. leo-budapest.hu

St. Andrea Wine & Skybar

1E ST. ANDREA WINE & SKYBAR The Eger-based St. Andrea winery offers prime Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and chilled cocktails at their Budapest rooftop bar, towering above focal Vörösmarty tér. District V. Deák Ferenc utca 5. standreaskybar.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

113

Horizont Taproom by Léhűtő

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

7 DRINKING DESTINATIONS DEDICATED TO CRAFT BEER 2A BREWDOG Scottish chain BrewDog now has a pawhold on Budapest, opening at a central location in late 2018. Fine bar food accompanies 25 brews on tap, including Hungarian varieties. District VI. Anker köz 2-4. brewdog.com 2B FIRST CRAFT BEER See how FIRST Craft brews its 20 types of beer through the glass wall of the Taproom, where ten are served on draught. Brewery tours take place from 6pm on Saturdays. District IV. Váci út 83. firstcraftbeer.com 2C HOPAHOLIC ‘In Hop We Trust’ is the motto here, a funky little spot in the party quarter where ales currently include Glee, Great Vacation and No Idols! Closed on Sundays. District VII. Akácfa utca 38. hopaholic.hu

114

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

2D HORIZONT TAPROOM BY LÉHŰTŐ Quality local craft brewers Horizont took over Léhűtő in the Gozsdu Udvar, offering over a dozen tap brews in two rooms. Baguettes and burgers also feature. District VII. Holló utca 12-14. horizontbrewing.com 2E JÓNÁS Open until 2am at weekends, Jónás brings the Bálna to life thanks to its range of ales and riverside terrace. Look out for local brews Pest Kontrol and Budapest Pale Ale. District IX. Fővám tér 11-12. facebook.com/jonaskezmuvessorhaz 2F KEG SÖRMŰVHÁZ An oasis of craft beer in Buda, KEG offers a whopping 32 domestic and global varieties on tap, plus outstanding bar food – look out for the weekday lunchtime deals. District XI. Orlay utca 1. kegsormuvhaz.hu

First Craft Beer

2G NEKED CSAK DEZSŐ This self-styled brew pub and bistro started out as a cult spot in Dohány utca and now fills a large space near Blaha Lujza tér with 32 beer taps and a busy kitchen. District VIII. Rákóczi út 29. nekedcsak.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

115

116

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

PARTY TIME A passageway packed with partygoers, the Gozsdu Udvar wasn’t always this busy. In fact, until a decade ago, this row of six interlinking courtyards connecting Király utca with Dob utca was practically empty. While the Jewish Quarter around it blossomed with ruin bars and boutiques, this thoroughfare lay moribund. Why? The reason lies in its origins. The Gozsdu Udvar (‘Courtyard’) sits on land bought by politician and lawyer Emanoil Gojdu, Manó Gozsdu to Hungarians. After his death in 1869, he bequeathed it to the ‘Romanian Orthodox people of Hungary and Transylvania’. His will also established the foundation that commissioned architect Győző Czigler to create the courtyards here in 1901. With the bitter border dispute between Hungary and Romania, and the frozen decades under Communism, it was only after 1989 that the Romanian State claimed the Gozsdu Udvar – a claim Hungary rejected. Another decade passed before it fell into private hands, and another before it became party central – with an artisanal fair at weekends and a Christmas market in December. Among the many busy bars and restaurants, there’s even an escape room game.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

117

Ellátó Kert

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

7 LIVELY RUIN BARS WITH HIDDEN COURTYARDS 3A ANKER’T The huge courtyard of this comfortably cosmopolitan ruin pub is the beating heart of the bar, hosting themed parties, fashion shows and outdoor sports screenings. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 33. facebook.com/ankertbar 3B ELLÁTÓ KERT With its Aztec-style murals and a taco bar, Mexicanthemed Ellátó Kert is popular with locals and tourists alike for its halfsheltered courtyard and unpretentious aura. District VII. Kazinczy utca 48. 3C ÉLESZTŐHÁZ Set beyond the Grand Boulevard, this ruin bar has a cult following thanks to its shaded courtyard providing an ideal site for suds-loving couples to share brews. District IX. Tűzoltó utca 22. elesztohaz.hu

118

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

3D FOGASHÁZ Merged with Instant, the city’s biggest ruin-pub complex is always crowded with party people, its spacious courtyard a welcoming haven of fresh air and intimate chat. District VII. Akácfa utca 49-51. fogashaz.hu 3E FÜGE UDVAR Gritty urban vibes fill Füge Udvar, a low-key hangout where tightly packed rows of picnic tables are set in front of graffitiadorned walls under a central awning. District VII. Klauzál utca 19. facebook.com/FugeUdvar 3F MIKA TIVADAR Set behind a drab brick wall scrawled with chipped graffiti, the garden adjacent to the Mika Tivadar club fills with a cool clientele during the warmer months. District VII. Kazinczy utca 47. facebook.com/mikativadarmulato

Anker’t

3G SZIMPLA KERT The pioneer of ruin bars, tourist-attraction Szimpla Kert features a courtyard filled with colourful bric-à-brac and a Communist-era Trabant car, a prime selfie spot. District VII. Kazinczy utca 14. szimpla.hu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

119

0,75 Bistro

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5 WINNING WINE BARS WITH TERRACES 4A 0,75 BISTRO With a lovely terrace facing the Basilica, 0,75 hosts a mini-wine tasting every day, serving a sample portion of three fine libations. A food menu also features. District V. Szent István tér 6. facebook.com/075bistro 4B DIVINO BASILICA Enjoy Hungarian wine with a fabulous view of the Basilica. Featured are reds and whites by up-andcoming local producers, who you can often meet at tasting events. District V. Szent István tér 3. facebook.com/DiVinowinebar 4C D.O.C. VINO BAR Sip a Sicilian Moscato, a Sangiovese from Tuscany or a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Veneto region while sat on the terrace of this authentically Italian wine bar. District V. Arany János utca 12. winebarbudapest.com

120

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Kadarka

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

4D KADARKA On ever-bustling Király utca, colourful Kadarka sells many varieties of its namesake red wine that guests can enjoy at the bar’s pavement terrace set up for summer. Small-batch Hungarian bottles also on offer. District VI. Király utca 42. kadarkawinebar.com

DiVino Basilica

4E PALACK Find an outside table and take in the views of Szent Gellért tér and Liberty Bridge while enjoying your Tokaji Aszú or Merlot served at this laidback locale. District XI. Szent Gellért tér 3. facebook.com/palackborbar

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

121

Black Swan

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

122

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

5 BEST SPOTS FOR SUMMER COCKTAILS 5A BAR PHARMA Originality at this bijou bar is at full blast. Your uniquely creative cocktail concoction will come served in a bizarre glass, perhaps even a medication bottle. District VII. Kazinczy utca 35. facebook.com/BarPharma 5B BLACK SWAN A spot of high-class bar culture in the party district sports a black-and-gold interior, a sophisticated cosmopolitan spirit and amazingly mind-blowing drinks. District VII. Klauzál utca 32. facebook.com/blackswanbudapest 5C BOUTIQ’ BAR Ranked among the world’s top 50 cocktail bars, this downtown watering hole pioneered Budapest’s craft-cocktail movement. Luscious signature drinks constantly feature. District VI. Paulay Ede utca 5. boutiqbar.hu 5D HOTSY TOTSY A barbershop’s secret door takes you back to Prohibition-era New York at this speakeasy-style bar. Here, bespoke drinks are made according to your particular tastes. District VII. Síp utca 24. facebook.com/hotobp 5E PIÑA The design here is modern and easy on the eye, with the totemic piña, the pineapple, popping up here and there. Drinks are often shaken with plenty of exotic spices. District VII. Madách Imre út 3. facebook.com/pinabarbudapest

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

123

INTERVIEW

nded par ty Isu (aka István Kantor) co-fou s Budapest DJ series Lick the Click! and run store AktRecords. WLB: Tell us about Budapest’s

par ty scene.

that promoter s, festivals and I: It’s only in the last 15 years on this genre. Now Budapest specific clubs have focused international clubbing is not only recognised as an cachet for foreign DJs. The ain cert des tination but has a t of reference in this process. A38 can be considered a poin os, and smart use of social World-class visuals and vide this new music. Today, media, have helped to elevate chops, you need to manage it’s not enough to have the Izzók, Zsolt Bordos and Laki these areas properly. Kiégő conquered the international are among those who have two important par ty series, stage. Currently I put together and the A38, and Lick the Technokuns t/Acidmoon at Lärm out, afternoons at the A38. Look Click! Sunbur st on Saturday Day t uns July-4 Aug), Technok too, for the Ozora Festival (29 another venue we’re setting plus ), at Kolorádó (19-22 June – and a weekly video of new up on Saturday afternoons releases.

124

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

INTERVIEW

Isu

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

125

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

3 PRIME PARTY PLACES WITH LIVE MUSIC 6A A38 Budapest’s boat with the most, this revered vessel is the city’s best live venue and DJ spot, with a restaurant to boot, and summer parties taking over the top deck. District XI. Petőfi Bridge, Buda side. a38.hu 6B AKVÁRIUM As central as it can get, Akvárium comprises a quality indoor live venue with an expansive summer terrace. Late opening hours allow for extensive post-gig lingering. District V. Erzsébet tér 12. akvariumklub.hu

Akvárium

6C BUDAPEST PARK This enormous seasonal outdoor venue near the Danube hosts the likes of Iggy Pop and Ziggy Marley this summer, with lively afterparties running from 10pm until late. District IX. Soroksári út 60. budapestpark.hu

126

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Pontoon

BARS & NIGHTLIFE

3 HOT HANGOUTS FOR DRINKING BY THE DANUBE 7A BÁLNA The riverfront terrace of this whale-shaped glass construction is lined with restaurants and bars, all offering a front-row view of a quieter stretch of the Danube. District IX. Fővám tér 11-12. bálnabudapest.hu 7B FELLINI Stripy deckchairs by the riverfront await a boho crowd at this cult spot near the fish eateries on the Római part. Belgian beers and occasional live music also feature. District III. Kossuth Lajos üdülőpart 5. felliniromai.hu 7C PONTOON Every day is a mini festival at this waterside wonderland. People laze in hammocks, couples canoodle and when night falls, everybody dances under the stars. District V. Chain Bridge, Pest side. pontoonbudapest.com SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

127

EVENTS & FESTIVALS While the legendary Sziget Festival just gets bigger and busier than ever, smaller gatherings such as Kolorรกdรณ and the Liberty Bridge picnic weekends attract a less boisterous crowd. Elsewhere in town, stars such as Sting, Iggy Pop and Ziggy Marley make one-off live appearances.

128

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

129

Kolorádó Festival

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

5 BEST SUMMER FESTIVALS DANUBE CARNIVAL This annual multicultural festival presents traditional Hungarian and world-music shows across downtown locations. Folk dancers encourage audience participation. dunakarneval.hu. 8-16 June KOLORÁDÓ FESTIVAL A wooded area on the outskirts of Budapest hosts a musical extravaganza with a strong line-up of local bands and global underground greats playing to an alternative crowd. kolorado.hu. 19-22 June PICNICS ON LIBERTY BRIDGE Closed to traffic on designated summer weekends, Budapest’s historic Liberty Bridge turns into a scenic picnic spot hosting concerts, yoga and impromptu events. facebook.com/szabihid. Sat-Sun/6-28 July 130

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Sziget Festival

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

SZIGET FESTIVAL One of Europe’s biggest summer jamborees draws thousands to Budapest to spread good vibes. Headliners for 2019 include Ed Sheeran, the Foo Fighters and Twenty One Pilots. szigetfestival.com. 7-13 Aug

Picnics on Liberty Bridge

WINE FESTIVAL Tour Hungary’s wine regions without leaving the city, sampling an impressive variety of reds, whites and rosés in the scenic setting of Buda Castle. Live acts also feature. aborfesztival.hu. 5-8 Sept

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

131

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

UA L 7 UNU S I ON S T AT TR AC ZIGE T S AT T HE VAL FE S TI

132

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

CAMPFIRE After sundown and once the main concert performances are over, warm yourself by gathering around a giant campfire, while lounge and acoustic tunes play in the background. CIRCUS The Cirque du Sziget tent presents top-quality performances by acts from Africa and beyond. Join the show outside or enjoy the artists, acrobats and jugglers in the Big Top. FUNFAIR At this vintage amusement park, you can visit the fortune teller, try your hand at hat-throwing or ride a downsized Ferris wheel, best when it’s illuminated after dark. HUNGARICUM VILLAGE At this little village on the festival grounds, you can get your hair braided Hungarian-style, learn a few easy folk-dance steps and get acquainted with local culture. MAGIC MIRROR Often the festival’s best entertainment is provided by the drag queens, comedians and cabaret performers at this longestablished, gay-friendly Sziget institution. SZIGET BEACH When the burning sun gets a bit too much, you can head for Sziget’s own beach resort and cool down by sitting in the shallow waters – all with a drink in hand, of course. WEDDING TENT Have you just met the love of your life or do you want to marry a random Szitizen, perhaps even your beer? Here you can tie the knot and take home a certificate to prove it.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

133

134

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, HUNGARY! If you happen to be in Budapest on 20 August, you’re in for a treat. For the spectacular evening fireworks show, hotels and tour-boat companies lay on special viewing parties and crowds flock to vantage points overlooking the Danube. By day, after a flag-raising ceremony at Parliament and Mass at the Basilica, key museums open their doors for free, guided tours are given around Parliament and shows of military might are displayed on land and water. So what’s it all for? While other Europeans celebrate a different Stephen on their feast in December, here St Stephen’s Day honours the nation’s first king, canonised on 20 August, 1038. Crowned in AD 1000, Stephen I is held in particular reverence. On this day every year, his embalmed Holy Right Hand is carried out from the Basilica that also bears his name and taken around the nearby streets. As this is State Foundation Day, the fireworks that explode from 9pm burst with the colours of the national flag, red, white and green – with a little gold thrown in for good measure.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

135

National Gallop

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

3 EXCITING EVENTS FOR SPORTS FANS HUNGARIAN GRAND PRIX Just outside Budapest, the Hungaroring at Mogyoród has staged Formula 1 in the searing heat of summer since 1986. Drivers must complete 70 laps of the 4.38km circuit. hungaroring.hu. 4 Aug BUDAPEST URBAN GAMES For one day in summer, locals race around Citadella, swim across the Danube and take part in team games in urban squares, using Budapest as the backdrop. budapesturbangames.hu. 31 Aug NATIONAL GALLOP The weekend-long Nemzeti Vágta harks back to Hungary’s proud equine heritage as riders in historic costumes race each other around a course set up on Heroes’ Square. vagta.hu. 13-15 Sept 136

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

3 KEY CULTURAL FESTIVALS BUDAPEST SUMMER FESTIVAL From performances of Puccini to a Scottish violinist and Georgian ballet, diverse acts liven up summer on Margaret Island and Városmajor over three months. szabadter.hu. 1 June-7 Sept BUDAPEST WAGNER DAYS Under the artistic direction of star conductor Ádám Fischer, world stars perform Wagner’s four-opera Ring Circle as two consecutive series at the Béla Bartók Concert Hall. mupa.hu. 13-23 June

Night of the Museum

NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS Most of Budapest’s exhibition venues welcome visitors past midnight for special cultural activities. One wristband covers all venues, and special transport is laid on. Various locations. muzej.hu. 22 June

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

137

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

7 TOP CONCERTS FOR THE SUMMER DEAD CAN DANCE Reformed and promoting their latest album Dionysus, UK-Aussie ambient dark wavers and fellow musical explorers celebrate a 40-year career with this world tour. Papp László Sportaréna/District XIV. Stefánia út 2. budapestarena.hu. 26 June DIANA KRALL The Grammy-winning jazz singer/pianist returns to the Palace of Arts after her acclaimed show here three years ago, this time accompanied by a four-piece band. Müpa/District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. mupa.hu. 26 June

Thirty Seconds to Mars

CHARLOTTE GAINSBOURG Serge’s daughter Charlotte makes her first appearance in Hungary, singing in English and French, presenting tunes from her intimate award-winning comeback album Rest. Müpa/District IX. Komor Marcell utca 1. mupa.hu. 30 June

138

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Sting

EVENTS & FESTIVALS

STING The former Police frontman returns to Budapest after his show on Heroes’ Square in 2018, this time to promote My Songs, an album of re-recorded versions of his hits. Papp László Sportaréna/District XIV. Stefánia út 2. budapestarena.hu. 2 July THIRTY SECONDS TO MARS The Leto brothers from Los Angeles pop into Budapest as part of a huge world tour of stadiums and arenas on the back of 2018 album America. Expect an energetic live show. Budapest Park/District IX. Soroksári út 60. budapestpark.hu. 23 July IGGY POP Hard to believe, but Iggy is now in his seventies, the godfather of punk able to launch into his revered classics with the same gusto as when they were first recorded. Budapest Park/ District IX. Soroksári út 60. budapestpark.hu. 24 July ZIGGY MARLEY The son of reggae legends Bob and Rita was showered with praise for his self-penned, self-produced album Rebellion Rises, which he’s now taking around the world. Budapest Park/District IX. Soroksári út 60. budapestpark.hu. 30 July SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

139

AROUND BUDAPEST Day trips from Budapest include key destinations on the Danube Bend, Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom, along with Vác on the opposite bank, all reached by boat, bus, train or HÉV suburban rail. Also served by HÉV are historic Gödöllő and its Habsburg palace. West of town, Etyek is a pretty village of winemakers.

140

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

141

AROUND BUDAPEST MAP

ESZTERGOM BASILICA

ETYEK ETYEK VINEYARDS

142

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

VÁC CATHEDRAL

HISTORIC VISEGRÁD

VÁC

ESZTERGOM VISEGRÁD

SZENTENDRE SZENTENDRE GALLERIES

GÖDÖLLŐ

BUDAPEST

GÖDÖLLŐ PALACE

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

143

AROUND BUDAPEST

USEFUL INFORMATION The easiest destinations to reach from Budapest are Szentendre and Gödöllő, both served by swift and frequent HÉV suburban train. Esztergom and Vác have regular rail connections while Visegrád and Etyek require a bus. Boats or hydrofoils run to all the riverside destinations in summer.

ARRIVAL BY CAR Main road 11 follows the Danube all the way from Budapest via Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom, with river views for part of the way. Etyek lies between the M1 and M7 while Expressway 2 serves Vác.

BY TRAIN/BUS For Szentendre and Gödöllő, take the HÉV train (bkk.hu) from Batthyány tér and Örs vezér tere respectively. For Esztergom and Vác, it’s a mainline train (mavcsoport.hu) from Nyugati station, while Etyek requires a bus (volanbusz.hu) from Kelenföld.

BY BOAT In summer, a daily hydrofoil (not Mon) calls at Vác, Visegrád and Esztergom, while a slower boat serves Szentendre, Visegrád and Esztergom. See mahartpassnave.hu.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

145

DANUBE BEND An artists’ colony, a medieval citadel and a historic basilica are the main attractions of the Danube Bend, all within easy reach of Budapest. In summer, hydrofoils from town also call at historic Vác as well as Visegrád and Esztergom, while the boat service to Szentendre is daily.

146

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

147

AROUND BUDAPEST

8 GREAT IDEAS FOR A DANUBE BEND WEEKEND Bobsleigh down Visegrád Ride the Alpine coaster or the summer bobsleigh and negotiate a dozen bends as the verdant landscape of Visegrád rushes by.

Enjoy festival fun Szentendre bids farewell to summer with the ‘Open Day & Night’ weekend of outdoor shows. Houses and courtyards open from 30 Aug to 1 Sept.

148

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

Explore Remete Cave Between Zebegény and Nagymaros, this underground attraction offers a challenge to outdoor adventurers and spectacular scenery to all visitors.

Scale Nagy-Hideg Hill ‘Big Cold Hill’ is the third tallest point in the Börzsöny uplands and part of the DunaIpoly National Park spread out below.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

149

AROUND BUDAPEST

See the VĂĄc mummies This storied Danubian town is where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the White Church, and the mysterious mummies uncovered here in 1994.

Stroll through Szentendre Atmospheric Serbian churches, bijou galleries and waterfront terraces make Szentendre a perfect destination from Budapest.

150

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

Zip to Esztergom Speeding over the Danube in summer, the nippy hydrofoil sets off from Budapest at 10am and reaches Esztergom, via Vรกc and Visegrรกd, before noon.

Zoom over the river from Vรกc Either by car or motorbike, the ride over the river from Vรกc takes in the scenery of the Danube Bend, no matter where you happen to cross.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

151

AROUND BUDAPEST

7 BEST SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS ESZTERGOM BASILICA Hungary’s largest church is a stately 19th-century rebuild of the cathedral where the nation’s first king, Stephen I, is thought to have been crowned, on Christmas Day, 1000. Esztergom/Szent István tér 1. bazilika-esztergom.hu ESZTERGOM CASTLE The remains of Esztergom Castle, the royal seat until the Mongol siege of 1241, were restored from the 1930s on, including the palace chapel and its exquisite frescoes. Esztergom/SzentIstván tér 1. varmegom.hu/wp HISTORIC SZENTENDRE Serbs fleeing the Ottomans in the 1600s settled in Szentendre, building beautiful Orthodox churches such as Blagoveštenska, rising above today’s boutiques and galleries. Szentendre/szentendre.hu 152

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Veprech Tower

AROUND BUDAPEST

VEPRECH TOWER Recently reconstructed and reopened to the public with a fully working Renaissance water machine, the Veprech Tower forms part of the riverside Mosque Museum. Esztergom/esztergomidzsami.hu VERŐCE EMBANKMENT Backdropped by retaining walls built by Miklós Ybl of Budapest Opera House fame, the Verőce riverbank comes to life in summer, with parties, barbecues and live performances. Verőce/veroce.hu VISEGRÁD CITADEL Still under long-term reconstruction, the Citadel is a double-castle complex created by Béla IV in the 1200s, reached by a steep footpath signposted ‘Fellegvár’. Visegrád/visegrad.hu/-93 VISEGRÁD ROYAL PALACE Grand and ornate in medieval times, this former regal residence was a total ruin when excavations began in 1934. Since partially reconstructed, it’s an easy walk from town. Visegrád/visegrad.hu/-95 SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

153

HUNGARY’S FRIDA KAHLO Describing her as a ‘pioneer of Indian art’, when the New York Times published a long obituary of painter Amrita Sher-Gil, they detailed her origins as the daughter of a Hungarian-Jewish opera singer and a Sikh aristocrat, her move from Budapest to Shimla, then to Paris and her return to India. Attracted to both sexes, Sher-Gil is compared to Frida Kahlo, her work capturing a certain loneliness in women. She died in 1941. But missing from the Sher-Gil story is a strong bond with Hungary only recently brought to light, of happy childhood summers spent at Zebegény, where an Amrita Society preserves her memory and keeps her memoirs. Her uncle was Ervin Baktay, eminent Hungarian Indologist, who first encouraged the young Amrita to paint. Her cousin Alfréd Gottesmann was a member of the seminal Nagybánya artists’ colony. Today, as Sher-Gil’s works change hands for huge sums, modest exhibitions are still staged in Zebegény, a link to happier times of a century ago.

154

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Amrita Sher-Gil SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

155

Royal Clun Hotel Visegrád

AROUND BUDAPEST

7 BEST HOTELS AND LODGINGS ÁRNYAS DIÓ LOMBHÁZ Here you sleep within the spread of a huge walnut tree, 3.5 metres off the ground, with a huge terrace to boot. Sleeps five, with one bedroom and one bathroom. Verőce/Guruntyi-dűlő. facebook.com/walnuTREEhouse NATURA HILL At this four-star pension and slow-food bistro in the middle of nowhere, guests sleep in charming rooms named after flowers, upstairs designed for couples who’ll bask in the view. Zebegény/above Szarvas út. naturahill.hu ODU HOUSE Its elevated terrace spread out over the Danube Bend, this masterwork of interior design opened in 2018, welcoming up to 11 guests in two bedrooms and various built-in platforms. Verőce/ Meredek utca 21. oduhouse.hu 156

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

PRÓNAY CASTLE Surrounded by greenery inland from Vác, this aristocratic mansion awaits guests with fine apartments and cosy doubles, alongside a spa pavilion with a sauna and salt room. Alsópetény/Petőfi Sándor utca 52. pronaykastely.hu

Prónay Castle

ROYAL CLUB HOTEL VISEGRÁD At this four-star in the heart of Visegrád, rooms and suites have stunning views of the Danube Bend and spa facilities include a Himalayan salt-crystal room and a pool. Visegrád/Fő út 92. wellnesshotelvisegrad.hu

TERASZHÁZ ZEBEGÉNY Birdsong and water burble barely challenge the silence of this romantic getaway deep in the woods a short walk from the Danube. A relaxed interior awaits after a long hike. Zebegény/Völgy út 8. facebook.com/teraszhazzebegeny TÓ WELLNESS HOTEL Overlooking Lake Bánk, this spa hotel gives guests access to pools indoor and out, a panoramic sauna and a familysized salt cabin. Live jazz plays in the restaurant. Bánk/Petőfi út 53. towellnesshotel.hu SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

157

AROUND BUDAPEST

7 RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS FROM SEA The other side of the embankment from the ferry jetty, this modest little spot offers various kinds of fish and seafood, best enjoyed at a sun-catching table outside. Szentendre/Bogdányi út 15. facebook.com/fromseaszentendre KOSTEL At this recently converted restaurant, pension and wine bar just south of Esztergom, the concise menu changes every month according to the chef’s seasonal creations. Kesztölc/Klastrom utca 2. kostel.hu

Prímás Pince

M’EAT GASTROPUB Sleek and contemporary, this welcome addition to the Vác dining scene goes big on BBQ, burgers and steak, also providing quality cocktails, live music and TV football. Vác/Március 15 tér 22. facebook.com/meatgastropub

158

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

MJAM This modern restaurant in the heart of Szentendre offers quality ethnic cuisine, mainly but not exclusively from the Caribbean, including seafood curries and classic Thai soups. Szentendre/Városház tér 2

Rózsakert

PRÍMÁS PINCE Invariably geared to tourists, given the setting in the cellar of Esztergom’s Basilica, Prímás Pince still goes for quality in its weekly changing menu and wine selection. Esztergom/Szent István tér 4. primaspince.hu

RENAISSANCE RESTAURANT This regal eatery evokes centuries past with its medieval feel and meaty menu, enticing diners with pork, beef, goose and lamb, and Danube views from the terrace. Visegrád/Fő utca 11. renvisegrad.hu RÓZSAKERT In the setting of Esztergom’s Lower Castle overlooking the Danube, classic Hungarian cuisine is served with a modern touch, game, veal and lamb plus fine wines. Esztergom/Berényi Zsigmond utca 18-20. rozsakert.restaurant SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

159

Kacsakő Bisztró

AROUND BUDAPEST

7 WONDERFUL WATERFRONT SPOTS KACSAKŐ BISZTRÓ Lapped by the Danube, this bucolic getaway close to the bustle of Szentendre offers barbecued dishes, deckchairs on a sandy shore, serve-yourself ice cream and live acts. Szentendre/ Duna korzó 21. facebook.com/KacsakoBisztro KISMAROSI SAND ISLAND Setting for the climax of the 1962 film classic Aranyember, this wonderfully sandy shore can be reached on foot when water levels are low. Popular with the fishing fraternity. Kismarosi NAGYMAROSI STRAND Clean water and a long beach have made this a popular riverfront spot for generations. It offers grilled fish and a playground, along with a grand view of Visegrád. Nagymaros/Hunyadi sétány 160

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

AROUND BUDAPEST

PILISMARÓTI BAY The large bay at Pilismarót by the Danube lends itself to relaxation. Swimmers and fishermen enjoy the clean waters, while camping families set up barbecues alongside. Pilismarót/Dunapart

Zebegény Embankment

SZIGETCSÚCS At the northern tip of Szentendrei Island by Kisoroszi, a child-friendly stretch of beach attracts campers, canoeists and carnivores, barbecues and a single bar providing sustenance. Kisoroszi Szigetcsúcs

VERŐCEI STRAND With its grassy bank, volleyball court, cabin rental and buffets, the beach at Verőce provides the perfect family getaway, free admission and shaded spots another plus. Verőce/off Árpád út ZEBEGÉNY EMBANKMENT There’s not only hiking to be had in Zebegény, but riverside relaxation open to everyone, with showers, toilets, free sunloungers and canoes you can rent out. Zebegény/Duna-part SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

161

ETYEK There’s more to Etyek than wine – although most visit this bucolic village 25km west of Budapest for its vineyards and communal picnics. You can also tour the Korda film studios, sample craft beer and try succulent homemade ham.

162

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

163

Etyek Picnics

ETYEK

10 GREAT THINGS TO DISCOVER IN ETYEK DESSZERT PINCE Open on weekend afternoons, this little villagestyle confectionery is the place to go for homemade versions of popular desserts, such as zserbó and Eszterházy cake. Újhegyi út 3. facebook.com/desszertpince ETYEK PICNICS The sun-kissed slopes of the village fill with oenophiles from Budapest and surrounding communities to enjoy a two-day gastro gathering, staged every season. facebook.com/ etyekipiknik ETYEKI KÚRIA Set along a dirt track at Öreghegy, this contemporary estate offers Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to guests sitting by the picture windows overlooking the vineyard. Öreghegy 2699/etyekikuria.com ETYEKI SÖRMANUFAKTÚRA The village of wine also prides itself on characteristic craft beers, available for sampling at this brewery selling IPA, Porter, even ale infused with ginger. Kolumbusz utca 1511/1. facebook.com/etyekisor

164

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

ETYEK

ETYEKM Run by a young couple who love food and wine, this rustic household attracts epicureans from near and far to join for convivial lunch and dinner events indoors or out. Öreghegy présházak. facebook.com/EtyekM HARASZTHY VINEYARDS During summer, guests lounge by the stylish pool of the Haraszthy Vineyards, a state-of-the-art establishment offering excellent wines and succulent steaks. Öreghegy 3108. hvp.hu HERNYÁK BIRTOK Pálinka, champagne, fine food and, of course, wine await those who visit this lovely family-run land of libations amid the bucolic setting of Öreghegy in Etyek. Öreghegy présházak 2684. facebook.com/hernyakbirtok KORDA STUDIOS Many an international movie has been created at these prime film studios, where you get a sneak peek of a New York street set and filmmaking tricks during a guided tour. Korda út 1. kordafilmpark.hu RÓKUSFALVY FOGADÓ Quality game, poultry and wine are served in style at Rókusfalvy, a traditional-style restaurant and lodging, named after the owner who opened it in 2002. Alcsúti út 4. rokusfalvyfogado.hu SONKAMESTER Homemade hams and smoked sausage are served with crispy vegetables, thick sour cream and soft local bread on a wooden platter, alongside aromatic house wine. Open Fri-Sun only. Újhegyi út.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

165

166

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

GÖDÖLLŐ It’s hard to separate Gödöllő from royalty – although a post-war Communist rebuild did its best. Now magnificently restored, the Royal Palace and gardens, main square of Szabadság tér and Royal Waiting Room welcome hordes of visitors all summer, facilitated by a fast HÉV suburban train from Budapest.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

167

Gödöllő Palace

GÖDÖLLŐ

10 GREAT THINGS TO DISCOVER IN GÖDÖLLŐ ERZSÉBET KIRÁLYNÉ ÉTTEREM Thanks to its proximity to the Palace, this restaurant is ideal for a post-visit lunch. Regal in style, it offers venison, boar and salmon on the menu. Dózsa György út 2. erzsebetkiralyneetterem.hu ERZSÉBET PARK After the assassination of the revered Empress Elisabeth, parks were created across Hungary. Here in her beloved Gödöllő, evergreens surround the path that leads to her statue. HÉV-Erzsébet park GÖDÖLLŐ BOTANICAL GARDEN Many protected species are included among the 500 plant varieties ranged around a pretty pond. Alpine and Mediterranean breeds sit amid the native Hungarian ones. Páter Károly utca 1. botanikuskert.szie.hu

168

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

GÖDÖLLŐ

GÖDÖLLŐ HOUSE OF ARTS The neo-Renaissance Royal Waiting Room, built by the station for Franz Josef and Sisi, was fully renovated according to the original plans and now hosts exhibitions. Állomás tér 1-3. muza.hu/info-kiralyi-varo GÖDÖLLŐ MUSEUM In a building dating back to 1760, a wide-ranging collection touches on local cultural activities from the early 1900s, the history of scouting and a nearby nature reserve. Szabadság tér 5. godolloimuzeum.hu GÖDÖLLŐ PALACE The gorgeous Gödöllő Palace was the summer residence of Emperor Franz Josef and his beloved Hungarophile wife Sisi. Today, it’s a historic attraction open to the public. Grassalkovichkastély. kiralyikastely.hu GÖDÖLLŐ PALACE PARK These picturesque, expansive gardens surrounding the royal palace feature century-old trees, abundant flowers and benches for relaxation. Open from 5.30am, entry free of charge. Grassalkovich-kastély SMARNI ÉTTEREM Close to the Palace, this restaurant offers substantial main dishes such as duck, lamb and chicken Gödöllő-style, best devoured on the terrace overlooking the pretty park. Szabadság út 4. smarnietterem.hu SOLIER CAFÉ At this popular confectionery, the colourful cake and dessert selection include gluten- and sugar-free treats. If you’re hungry for more, there’s a restaurant upstairs. Dózsa György út 13. solier.hu SZABADSÁG TÉR A pedestrianised square in the heart of town, verdant Szabadság tér contains a market, a singing fountain, the Hamvay Mansion, Gödollő Museum and a World Peace Gong from Indonesia.

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019

169

Content created by the team at:

welovebudapest.com/en

/welovebudapest

/welovebudapest.en

/welovebudapest

OUR PARTNER:

This publication is the intellectual property of We Love Publishing Kft. Reproduction in full or in part is strictly prohibited. Our team have paid particular attention to the accuracy of all the information within but we accept no responsibility or liability for any changes which may have occurred. info@welovebudapest.com Budapest, 2019 170

WE LOVE BUDAPEST

Created by the team behind the lively online magazine about the city they love, this guide shares their tips and expertise. Ruin bars, spas and dining destinations have each been visited, assessed and pinpointed on a fold-out map while this summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main festivals and live shows are previewed. Welcome to We Love Budapest!

SUMMER - AUTUMN / 2019