WE LOVE HUNGARY POCKET GUIDE WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019 by We Love Budapest

DINING

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CHRISTMAS MARKETS

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INTRODUCTION Like its showcase capital Budapest and prime resort of Balaton, Hungary has been transformed. No, its charm hasn’t changed, its timeless landscapes, its history, its vineyards. The locals are warm and accommodating, the pace of life appealing, the food rich and spicy. Nature and tradition are never far away. But a wave of invention has swept the wine cellars, restaurants and hotels of the countryside.

WE LOVE HUNGARY

Just as our online magazine and free guides, We Love Budapest and We Love Balaton, cover the latest openings and happenings there, so We Love Hungary highlights today’s provincial trends, events and venues. Focusing on six key destinations – Sopron, Eger, Tokaj, Debrecen, Szeged and Pécs – and surrounding regions, we span Hungary from Lake Fertő to Hortobágy to show you all the colour, character and current reinvention of this eternally fascinating country.

WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

HUNGARY

BUDAPEST

Attracting a record ten million guest stays in 2017, Hungary’s elegant capital is awash with spas, ruin bars and dining destinations. Winter sees the city transformed by Christmas markets and skating rinks.

With national parks and palaces, wildlife and wineries, spa-blessed Hungary has attractions from Baroque Sopron in the west to bucolic Hortobágy in the east.

2018-2019 Launched in 2011, We Love Budapest covers the city’s openings and happenings in Hungarian and English, with a daily stream of original, independent digital content. Throughout 2018-19, look out for our six seasonally focused printed guides to Budapest, Balaton and Hungary. Tips, maps, explainers and interviews help you discover the capital, the country and its main getaway resort. Distributed free nationwide!

A We Love Budapest online magazin már hét éve szolgál friss és megbízható információkkal a főváros látnivalóiról, gasztronómiai és kulturális életéről, szabadidős programjairól. Nyomtatott kiadványában erre a tudásra alapozva ad tippeket és ötleteket a 2018–2019-es téli–tavaszi időszakra.

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Hungary’s prime family summer retreat offers plenty year-round too, with quality dining, fine wines and outdoor activities. Look out for our regularly updated website welovebalaton.hu in Hungarian and English.

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Along with our editions for Budapest, Balaton and Hungary, we produce event-focused, custom-published guides. Working in partnership, we create and adapt high-quality material in English and Hungarian to suit clients’ needs.

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WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

CONTENTS

SOPRON & AROUND (20-41)

TOKAJ AND AROUND (66-83)

Sopron road trip for the weekend ................................................................... 24 7 essential sights and attractions in Sopron ................................................. 26 5 destinations in Sopron for special flavours .............................................. 28 INTERVIEW – Chocolatier Beatrix Harrer-Abosi...........................................30 3 winter excursions from Sopron ......................................................................32 3 spas perfect for winter and spring ............................................................... 34 EXPLAINER – Capital of Kékfrankos ................................................................ 36 3 dining destinations around Sopron ............................................................. 38 3 dining destinations over the border ............................................................ 39 3 exciting sights outside Sopron ......................................................................40 3 top destinations around Lake Fertő .............................................................41

Tokaj road trip for the weekend ...................................................................... 70 7 essential sights in and around Tokaj ............................................................72 5 cosy spots for sampling wine in winter ..................................................... 74 5 places to discover the history of Tokaj wine ............................................ 76 INTERVIEW – Winemaker Péter Molnár ........................................................ 78 7 restaurants for a fine feast in and around Tokaj .....................................80 3 hidden attractions to discover around Zemplén in winter .................. 82 3 spas outside Tokaj for a refreshing plunge ............................................... 83

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK (42-65) Eger road trip for the weekend ........................................................................46 7 must-sees in and around Eger .......................................................................48 5 great hikes around the Mátra and the Bükk .............................................50 5 cosy forest lodgings to spend the night ..................................................... 52 5 snowy activities in the Mátra and the Bükk ............................................. 54 54 EXPLAINER – Thermal baths in the Mátra .............................................. 56 5 top dining destinations in Eger and around ............................................. 58 7 local red wines you must try ..........................................................................60 5 top places to eat in Miskolc ............................................................................ 62 5 great things to do in spring ............................................................................64 6

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND (84-105) Debrecen road trip for the weekend ..............................................................88 7 essential sights and attractions in Debrecen ............................................90 INTERVIEW – MODEM director Edit Koroknai .............................................. 92 5 nightlife spots for winter .................................................................................94 7 destinations for culinary delights .................................................................96 EXPLAINER – What is a Debrecziner? .............................................................98 5 exciting attractions around Lake Tisza in winter ..................................100 5 unmissable attractions at Hortobágy in winter ..................................... 102 3 cultural events to look out for at the Kölcsey Központ ......................104 3 spring outings around Debrecen ................................................................ 105

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CONTENTS

114

128

136

152

SZEGED AND AROUND (106-129)

PÉCS AND AROUND (130-155)

Szeged road trip for the weekend ..................................................................110 7 unmissable sights in Szeged .......................................................................... 112 5 amazing Art Nouveau treasures in town .................................................. 114 5 great places for coffee and cake .................................................................. 116 3 charming Christmas markets in and around Szeged ............................ 118 3 spots to sample Szeged fish soup ............................................................... 119 5 places to eat if you don’t fancy fish soup ................................................ 120 5 cosy spots for a daytime drink .....................................................................122 3 winter spas in and around Szeged ............................................................. 124 5 regional specialities for you to sample ......................................................126 5 places to catch the first rays of spring sunshine ....................................128

Pécs road trip for the weekend .......................................................................134 7 great cultural attractions in Pécs .................................................................136 EXPLAINER – The mystic bull of Pécs ............................................................138 7 places to sample special flavours ...............................................................140 5 cafés for the whole family to enjoy ........................................................... 142 7 liveliest nightspots in Pécs ............................................................................ 144 INTERVIEW – Rapper Dávid Marsalkó .......................................................... 146 5 great hiking trails around Pécs .................................................................... 148 5 great events around Pécs for winter and spring ................................... 150 5 unmissable attractions around Pécs ..........................................................152 7 places for a gastronomic tour near Pécs .................................................. 154

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INTRODUCTION

HUNGARY BY REGION TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA (p66-83) EGER,THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK (p42-65)

SOPRON AND AROUND (p20-41)

DEBRECEN AND AROUND (p84-105)

SZEGED AND AROUND (p106-129) PÉCS AND AROUND (p130-155)

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INTRODUCTION

WELCOME TO HUNGARY!

HUNGARY BY PLANE

Visitors from the EU, the US, Canada, Australia and many other countries do not require a visa for stays of up to 90 days in Hungary. The Hungarian currency is the forint (HUF). Currently, there are 320 forints to €1, 360 forints to £1 and 280 forints to $1. A beer costs about 600 HUF/€1.90. Tipping is standard in taxis, bars and restaurants. The custom is to round up the figure by about 10% and suggest this to the driver or server. If drinks cost 1,800 forints, say ‘2,000’ as you pay, even across a bar counter. Most service staff speak English.

Budapest Airport (bud.hu) is 16km south-east of the capital. Budapest terminals 2A or 2B are in adjacent buildings. Outside, a kiosk dispatches Főtaxi (fotaxi.hu) cabs to the city centre, a journey costing about 7,500 HUF/€23. Past the taxi booth are two bus stops and a ticket machine which accepts cash (in forints) and credit cards, and gives change. The two buses here need different tickets. Swifter but less frequent 100E requires a 900-HUF (€2.80) ticket – look out for the plane logo on the option menu. This runs every 20 minutes into the city centre, calling at Kálvin tér, Astoria and Deák tér. Allow 40mins to 1hr journey time. The other airport bus stop is for the 200E, running every 7 minutes to the nearest metro station of Kőbánya-Kispest (journey time 25mins). This is on blue metro line M3, currently served by replacement buses at weekends and after 8.35pm weekdays. The 200E bus requires a standard BKK transport ticket (350 HUF/€1.10), as does the onward journey from the metro station to town.

HUNGARY BY TRAIN The four main train stations in Budapest are Keleti, Nyugati, Déli and Kelenföld. Each has a metro station of the same name, on the capital’s colour-coded four-line network. Trains are run by MÁV (mavcsoport.hu) and tickets can be bought online (registration required) or from ticket offices at stations, foreign credit cards accepted. Seat reservations are required for faster InterCity services, such as the one to Debrecen (journey time 2hrs 40mins).

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INTRODUCTION

HUNGARY BY BUS

VOCABULARY

Volánbusz (volanbusz.hu) provides direct services to destinations which trains cannot reach. Tickets can be bought online or from the main bus station in Budapest at Népliget, on metro line 3.

HUNGARY BY CAR Hungary has more than a dozen motorways, the main ones being the M1 between Budapest and the Austrian border, the M3 east from Budapest, the M7 between Budapest and Lake Balaton, and the M0 ring road. The M5 and M6 serve Szeged and Pécs respectively. There are no toll gates – buy a permit online (e-autopalyamatrica.hu) or at any petrol station. Minimum validity period is ten days (3,500 HUF/€11).

HUNGARY BY BIKE Many areas of Hungary are perfect for cyclists, with more than 2,000 kilometres of routes, tours and trails. Cycle hire is also possible in all major towns.

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Yes igen (ee-gen) No nem (nemm) Good morning jó reggelt (Yo reg-gelt) Good day jó napot (Yo na-pot) Good evening Jó estét (Yo esh-tayt) Good night jó éjszakát (Yo ey-sak-kaht) Goodbye viszontlátásra (vis-sont-lah-tahsh-rra) Bye viszlát (vis-slaht) Hi/bye szia (see-ya) Please kérem (kair-rem) Thank you köszönöm (kur-sur-numm) Thanks köszi (kur-see) How much is mennyibe kerül (men-nyi-beh kair-ruel) One egy (edj) Two két/kettő (kayt/ket-turr) Three három (hahr-rum) Four négy (naidj) Five öt (urt) Six hat (hot) Seven hét (hayt) Eight nyolc (nyolts) Nine kilenc (kee-lents) Ten tíz (teez) Twenty húsz (hooss) Hundred száz (sahzz) Thousand ezer (ezzer) Two thousand kétezer (kayt-ezzer) Ten thousand tízezer (teez-ezzer) Where is… Hol van (hohl vahn)

WINTER-SPRING / 2018-2019

Restaurant étterem (eyt-ter-em) Menu étlap (eyt-lapp) Lunch ebéd (eb-bayd) Dinner vacsora (vatch-ora) Vegetarian vegetáriánus (veg-ge-tayr-ri-ah-nush) Table asztal (ass-tahl) Wine bor (borr) Beer sör (shurr) Water víz (veez) Coffee kávé (kah-vay) Sugar cukor (tsook-korr) Milk tej (tay) Knife kés (kaysh) Fork villa (vil-la) Spoon kanál (kan-nahl) Teaspoon kiskanál (kish-kan-nahl) Plate tányér (tahn-yairr) Saucer csészealj (tchay-se-ay) Bill számla (sahm-la) The bill, please A számlát kérem (Uh sahm-laht kair-rem) Tip borravaló (borr-ah-vah-lo) Airport repülőtér (rep-puhl-urrtair) Train station pályaudvar (pie-ya-ood-vahr) Local station állomás (ahl-lo-mahsh) Train vonat (von-naht) Bus busz (buss) Tram villamos (vil-la-mosh) Petrol/gas station benzinkút (ben-zinn-koot)

INTRODUCTION

Top 10 don’t miss Climb the Fire Tower

Ski at the top of Hungary

Everyone should scale Kékes at least once. Once you’re here, you can ski or enjoy a hot drink at the cosy circular bar by the piste.

The iconic symbol of Sopron shows what the city and its surroundings can offer. The main square below and the panorama above are unparalleled sights, with plenty to discover in winter and spring.

Take Eger Castle

In Eger, Bull’s Blood wine and the castle are essential. The iconic fortress in the middle of the city has its own medieval atmosphere and its exhibitions are family-friendly.

Skate and sip mulled wine at Lake Fertő

There’s nothing better than sipping mulled wine after skating on a frozen lake – or vice versa. Here near Sopron, you can even do an entire circuit in January.

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Sample Tokaji aszú

Stroll around the wine cellars of Hercegkút or the wineries of Tarcal and Mád, then neck the nectar of the Gods.

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INTRODUCTION

See exotic animals at Nyíregyháza Zoo

At Hungary’s most popular zoo after Budapest, there are many creatures to admire, including the everyone’s favourite seals in the giant aquarium.

Take a wander around the Zsolnay Quarter

The area around this famed former porcelain factory has grown into a separate multicultural neighbourhood. Visit this new face of Pécs not only for the sights but also for the special events.

Meet Man Ray in Debrecen

The largest interlinking exhibition space in Central and Eastern Europe, MODEM, offers exciting exhibitions –such as the one featuring Surrealist artist Man Ray this December.

Taste the flavours of Pécs

Admire Art Nouveau in Szeged

Whether you are a fan of fine dining or dishes sourced from local ingredients, you can find almost anything in Pécs – Hungarian dishes reinvented and goatburgers.

You needn’t go to Barcelona for Art-Nouveau architecture. Carved columns, Oriental balconies and lavish lace swirls decorate several façades in Szeged’s city centre. 18

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SOPRON AND AROUND

ARRIVAL

Sopron is known for its loyalty to Hungary after World War I – and for its Kékfrankos wine. Nearby Lake Fertő attracts cyclists and nature lovers, with nearby Austria having a long-term influence on local life. The palatial seats of the noble Esterházy and Széchényi dynasties both merit day trips.

By train/bus: Services leave Budapest Keleti every 2hrs, journey time 2hrs 30mins. There’s no direct bus service.

By car: From Budapest, Sopron is 2.5hrs away, half the journey on the M1 motorway, turning off for the A4/E60.

ATTRACTIONS With its landmarks conveniently enclosed on and around focal Fő tér, Sopron can be explored in a day, with the historic and gastronomic attractions around Lake Fertő easily justifying a weekend away.

INFORMATION •• •• •• ••

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turizmus.sopron.hu sopron.hu ferto-hansag.hu eszterhaza.hu

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SOPRON AND AROUND

FERTŐRÁKOS QUARRY AND CAVE THEATRE

LAKE FERTŐ

FORUM SCARBANTIA

FERTŐD – ESTERHÁZY PALACE

CITY CENTRE

NAGYCENK – SZÉCHENYI MANSION

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SOPRON AND AROUND

Road Trip

SOPRON ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: You can start your weekend on the city’s main square, scaling the iconic Fire Tower for fabulous views. On a clear day, you can see far as Schneeberg in Austria. For dinner, try the local bean stew babsterc at Erhardt with a glass of Kékfrankos wine. After dark, hit Hangár or Búgócsiga Akusztik Garden for live sounds.

SATURDAY: In the morning, take a walk around central Sopron to admire the city’s many monuments and exhibitions. The Macskakő Children’s Museum is a must-visit destination for kids. You can also squeeze in a quick trip to see the castle in Kőszeg or the villa quarter of Löverek.

SUNDAY: For a Sunday morning’s excursion, head to Lake Fertő and visit the Pan European Picnic Memorial, before a dip in a thermal spa or lunch at the famed Ráspi Restaurant. For the afternoon, make for Gyógygödör in Sopron, an authentic winery. A visit to the Harrer Chocolate Shop provides the sweetest of goodbyes to Sopron. 24

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SOPRON AND AROUND

Sopron Roman ruins

SOPRON AND AROUND

OLD AND NEW SYNAGOGUES One of the city’s oldest streets, Új utca is home to two medieval synagogues. The later one was built around 1370 as a private house of worship for a Viennese banker. Új utca 11 /22. sopronimuzeum.hu MACSKAKŐ CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Playfully presenting how children used to live in the past, this museum displays antiquated objects, including an old dining table and a 100-year-old school desk. Szent György utca 12. sopronimuzeum.hu FABRICIUS HOUSE – ROMAN-ERA LAPIDARIUM Relics from Roman Scarbantia, portraits, statues and tombstones, beckon visitors in the cellar, while the upper levels are recreated as 17th and 18thcentury homes. Fő tér 6. sopronimuzeum.hu

7 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS IN SOPRON MAIN SQUARE The Fire Tower, Nagyboldogasszony Church and the historic Storno and Fabricius houses all stand on Sopron’s central square, itself centrepieced by a statue of the Holy Trinity. Fő tér

Castle District

PONCICHTER QUARTER Poncichter families whose German ancestors planted beans amid their vines still live in this atmospheric district, providing Sopron with distinct bean dishes and wine. Balfi utca/Gazda utca

FIRE TOWER Its cylindrical base partly built on Roman-era wall remains, this symbol of the city served as a military watchtower to observe the enemy or a wine delivery into town. Fő tér 8. tuztorony.sopron.hu FORUM SCARBANTIAE The ruins of ancient Sopron lie more than four metres beneath the city centre. Dating back 2,000 years, the former main square is now at modern-day cellar level. Új utca 1 26

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SOPRON AND AROUND

Tastevino Wine Bar & Shop

SOPRON AND AROUND

PAPA JOE’S SALOON & STEAKHOUSE Steaks from small to extra-large are soaked in delicious marinades before being grilled over charcoal in front of the guest. It’s also a whiskey bar, with 100 types. Várkerület 108. papajoe.hu ERHARDT RESTAURANT, WINE CELLAR Founder Zoltán Erhardt treats discerning guests to his traditional roast-duck liver with beans and homemade apricot jam. Dishes are offered with matching wines. Balfi út 10. erhardts.hu

5 DESTINATIONS IN SOPRON FOR SPECIAL FLAVOURS HARRER CHOCOLATE SHOP AND CONFECTIONERY Sometimes a cup of creamy hot chocolate is all you need on a cold winter’s day and at this workshop, you can even see how chocolates, bonbons and cakes are made. Faller Jenő utca 4. facebook.com/harrerchocolat

Erhardt Restaurant

KULTÚRPRESSZÓ The central Castle District is where Sopron’s only speciality café awaits with breakfasts, cakes and its signature Brazilian-Ethiopian blend of coffee. Várkerület 96. kulturpresszo.hu

Sopron is a fine place to eat. The local bean soup, babsterc, is a classic dish, but you should also try decent fish soup, tripe stew or pigs’ trotters, with a glass of Kékfrankos to go with it.

TASTEVINO WINE BAR & SHOP Sommelier Szabolcs Lukács will give you a guide to the world of wines, whether it’s sourced from Sopron, elsewhere in Hungary, Austria or from another continent. Várkerület 5. tastevino.hu 28

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INTERVIEW

BeatrAibxosi

With her husband Karl Harrer, who was born into a traditional Austrian con fectionery dynasty, Beatrix started the Ha rrer Confectionery 23 years ago and , in 2009, a chocolate workshop.

Ha r r e r -

WLH: Would you ever have thou ght that your filled peach dessert would win a gold medal at the International Chocolate Awa rds in London? BH-A: Winning in this category was a huge surprise. Karl didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even want to go to the awards ceremony and we only stayed until the end to meet and mingle with the greatest internationa l names in the industry. WLH: Since 2015, you have won more than 50 prizes at various competitions worldw ide. Where do you draw your inspiration to create a new chocolate? BH-A: When we go to exhibiti ons, we always keep an eye on current trends. At hom e I gather all kinds of exotic spices and ingredients so everything is right at hand when my husband star ts making a new chocolate.

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SOPRON AND AROUND

3 WINTER EXCURSIONS FROM SOPRON HEGYKŐ See what the Iron Curtain looked like at a designated memorial place located three kilometres from Hegykő, a village also home to a relaxing thermal baths complex. hegyko.hu SZOMBATHELY This former Roman settlement an hour’s drive from Sopron gets buzzing during winter with a cinnamon-scented Advent fair and a skating rink on the frozen boating lake. szombathely.hu

Schneeberg

SCHNEEBERG During winter, Austria’s Schneeberg ski resort awaits with snow-covered slopes, just an hour away from Sopron. Rent ski equipment or take a hike around the area. ausztriainfo.com/schneeberg

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Balf fürdő

SOPRON AND AROUND

ONLINE!

3 SPAS PERFECT FOR WINTER AND SPRING HEGYKŐ SÁRA TERMÁL Sourced from deep under the ground, mineral-rich hot waters feed the covered and open-air thermal pools of this spa, also providing massage treatments to bathers. Hegykő, Fürdő utca 5. saratermal.hu BALF FÜRDŐ This medicinal spa complex offers Kneipp hydrotherapies, hydro massage and special aqua fitness activities year-round. Quality lodging is provided in an 18th-century castle. Sopron-Balf, Fürdő sor 8. gyogyfurdobalf.hu BÜKFÜRDŐ THERMAL & SPA This sprawling complex comprises two dozen pools, saunas and seven on-site eateries. Treatments involve crushed peach stones, rosehip extracts and grape-seed oil. Bük, Termál körút 2A. bukfurdo.hu 34

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CAPITAL OF KÉKFRANKOS Now considered the land of Kéfrankos wine, before the 1800s the Sopron region was mostly known for its considerable production of white grapes. Back then, the phrase kékfrankos referred to any wine of good quality, instead of the red variation we know today. Legend has it that Napoleon’s army used francs to pay for wine, but for the finer varieties, local winemakers only accepted their blue-coloured bills of higher value. That’s where the word kékfrankos might come from, indicating quality. Due to phylloxera, a blight that devastated European viticulture, red-wine production was not prominent in the region before the end of the 19th century – although the first bottle of the now famed Sopron Kékfrankos was sold by wine merchant Mihály Jäger back in the 1830s.

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Taubenkobel

SOPRON AND AROUND

Ráspi Restaurant

SOPRON AND AROUND

3 DINING DESTINATIONS AROUND SOPRON

3 DINING DESTINATIONS OVER THE BORDER

RÁSPI RESTAURANT Dishes are always prepared fresh in the hot-stone oven or cast-iron pan at Ráspi by the Austrian border, known for its fine wines, balsamic duck breast and porcini game. Fertőrákos, Fő utca 72. raspi.hu

WIRTSHAUS IM HOFGASSL In the centre of Rust, this 16thcentury landmark run by Michael and Susanne Pilz offers a taste of seasonal regional cuisine paired with select Burgenland wines. Rust, Rathausplatz 10. hofgassl.at

TORNÁCOS RESTAURANT Sit by the large arched windows and enjoy grey-cattle salami and creamy vegetable soup with meat dumplings, made from traditional local ingredients. It’s also a spa hotel. Hegykő, Kossuth Lajos utca 74. tornacos.hu

HENRICI This deluxe dining destination serves pre-concert meals before performances at the Esterházy Palace opposite, plus a midday menu on weekdays and a wide range of wines. Eisenstadt, Restaurant am Esterházyplatz 5. henrici.at

BALF PANORÁMA Attracting diners from near and far, this popular hangout prides itself on traditional Hungarian treats such as oxtail soup, goose liver and beef stew. Closed Mondays. Sopron-Balf, Fürdő sor 25. balfpanorama.hu

TAUBENKOBEL An hour from Sopron in an Austrian hamlet, this gourmet spot run by Barbara Eselböck and Michelin-starred chef Alain Weissgerber offers regional, seasonal cuisine and organic wines. Schützen am Gebirge, Hauptstraße 31-33. taubenkobel.com

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Rust

SOPRON AND AROUND

Nagycenk - Széchenyi Castle

SOPRON AND AROUND

3 EXCITING SIGHTS OUTSIDE SOPRON

3 TOP DESTINATIONS AROUND LAKE FERTŐ

NAGYCENK – SZÉCHENYI CASTLE See how Count Ferenc Széchényi, founder of the Hungarian National Museum, and his son István of Chain Bridge fame, lived amid noble surroundings and a Neo-Baroque park. Nagycenk, Kiscenki út 3. szechenyiorokseg.hu

FERTŐ-HANSÁG NATIONAL PARK Numerous floods and droughts define the history of this 20,000-year-old lake, where bird-watching, star-gazing, cycling and canoeing are among the activities. ferto-hansag.hu

FERTŐD – ESTERHÁZY PALACE Hungary’s answer to Versailles, this Rococo confection dates back to the 1700s when Haydn lived here for many years. Concerts, tours and exhibitions are staged today. Fertőd-Eszterháza, Joseph Haydn út 2. eszterhaza.hu

LISZT MUSEUM Once part of the Esterházy manor, this house was where Franz Liszt was born in 1811. Today, it’s a museum, open from March to November, with regular tours and concerts. Raiding, Lisztstraße 46. liszt-haus.at

EISENSTADT – ESTERHÁZY PALACE This former residence of the noble Esterházy family, surrounded by pleasant parkland, offers themed tours of its stunning Baroque interiors and Haydn artefacts. Eisenstadt, Esterhazyplatz 5. esterhazy.at

RUST On the west shore of the lake, this small settlement is called the Town of Storks due to its dense population of the long-billed bird. Cosy restaurants and wineries await. rust.at

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EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK Historic Eger and the surrounding hilly landscapes of the Mátra and the Bükk transform in winter. Snowy slopes, Baroque beauty, great dining destinations and wine cellars await, and this is the only region in Hungary where ski centres and thermal baths are a short drive from each other.

ARRIVAL By car: The motorway does not go directly to

Eger. Follow the M3 to Miskolc, then turn off for Tiszafüred/Füzesabony towards Eger. From Budapest, allow an overall 1hr 40mins to Eger.

By train/bus: Direct trains leave from Budapest Keleti every 2hrs, journey time 2hrs 20mins. Buses (1hr 50mins) leave from the Stadion terminus by the metro station (M2) Puskás Ferenc Stadion.

ATTRACTIONS For Eger, you should allow one day to explore the historic centre and the wine cellars of Szépasszony-völgy – throw in the accessible slopes, spas and historic castles of the Mátra and the Bükk and you’ve got a great long weekend ahead of you.

INFORMATION •• •• •• •• ••

WE LOVE HUNGARY

visiteger.com ieger.com en.bnpi.hu gyongyos-matra.hu hellomiskolc.hu

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EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

MÁTRASZENTISTVÁN SKI PARK GALYATETŐ EGER CASTLE

MINARET

KÉKES

EGERSZALÓK SPA

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EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

Road Trip

EGER ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: During the day, explore Eger city centre, visiting the castle, museums and churches, before a meal at a top dining destination such as the Macok Bisztró. Afterwards, head over to Szépasszony-völgy, the so-called Valley of Beautiful Women, to sample the excellent wines at the new-wave cellars that stand shoulder to shoulder. SATURDAY: Start the day with a ski session: the best slopes are at Bánkút, the longest in Kékes, the most modern at Mátraszentistván. If there is not enough snow, there are many hikes to choose from, and mulled wine can always keep you going. Afterwards, melt your tired muscles in the warm thermal waters of the historic, golden-topped Turkish Baths in Eger or at the dimly-lit cave baths at Demjén. SUNDAY: Before heading back to Budapest, you can make your way through the atmospheric Bükk forest towards Miskolc, tasty lunch options including the trout farms at Szilvásvárad. Afterwards, you can visit Sirok Castle and the cave at Recsk, or stop by Egerszalók for another splash before the journey home.

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EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

Eger Basilica

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

KEPES CENTRE Born in Hungary, György Kepes joined the Bauhaus movement when part of Berlin’s Moholy-Nagy set. You can find most of his works here, plus arty chat and live jazz. Széchenyi utca 16. kepeskozpont.hu EGER BASILICA Hungary’s first king Stephen I founded the Eger diocese but the church fell in the Turkish siege. This cathedral was consecrated in 1837, its vast organ built in 1864. Telekessy út 6. eger-bazilika.plebania.hu SZÉPASSZONY-VÖLGY ‘The Valley of Beautiful Women’ 1km from the city centre is a network of wine cellars, some open in winter, where you can sample the famed local reds at friendly prices. egribornegyed.hu PARÁDSASVÁR This village between Eger and Gyöngyös belonged to the Rákóczi dynasty, who set up a glassworks. Today you can stay at a castle hotel, and try your hand at glass blowing. Kossuth út 1. khs.hu Minaret

7 MUST-SEES IN AND AROUND EGER EGER CASTLE The interactive exhibition here details the history of this heroic landmark, with special focus on the Turkish siege of 1552. Don’t miss a walk along the battlements. Vár 1. egrivar.hu MINARET Now topped with a cross instead of a crescent moon, this tower is all that’s left of the mosque that was knocked down in 1841. Climb its 97 steps for a superb panorama. Knézich Károly utca 4. minareteger.hu ARCHDIOCESE LIBRARY When Károly Eszterházy founded this resource in 1793, he made it open to the public, a pioneering move. Now the collection is 170,000 strong, including 1,000-year-old codices. Eszterházy tér 1 48

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EXTREME TWO-DAY HIKE From Lillafüred, head to Bánkút, using the cliffs Három-kő and Tar-kő as lookout points. If you have sleeping bags, you can spend the night at Cserepes-kő Cave. cserepesko.eoldal.hu SKI PARK TOUR If you’re not into skiing, you can take a snowy walk around the ski park at Mátraszentlászló and find refuge in the ski lodge afterwards, warming up with mulled wine. hsb.hu CASTLE RUINS HIKE This long but relaxed hike starts at Galyatető high in the Mátra then heads towards the Vörös-kő lookout point and past stone castle ruins to Pásztó at the foot of the highlands. galyacentrum.hu

5 GREAT HIKES AROUND THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK BEEHIVE STONES IN EGERSZALÓK AND DEMJÉN Hiking between Egerszalók and Demjén, you find wine cellars, cave houses and mysterious formations called ‘beehive stones’ as you traverse the Bükk National Park. en.bnpi.hu

Weather in this hilly region is unpredictable, so watch the forecast and pack the right equipment. Though mobile coverage is excellent in Hungary, just in case you’re out of reach, carry a local map.

PREHISTORIC CAVE DWELLINGS From Cserépfalu, take the old trade route and see Suba-Lyuk Cave where the remains of Neanderthal man were discovered, then hike up to the limestone Devil’s Tower. cserepfalu.hu 50

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Montem Vendégház

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

Ezererdő Vendégház

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

MONTEM VENDÉGHÁZ A slice of Scandinavia in the upper Mátra. Each room of this modern wooden lodging overlooks the forest and the minimalist furniture is self-designed. Opposite is a ski park. Mátraszentistván, Ágasvár utca 7. montem.hu

5 COSY FOREST LODGINGS TO SPEND THE NIGHT

EZERERDŐ VENDÉGHÁZ Egerbakta is found between Eger and the Mátra, near two spas. An afternoon tea on the terrace of this contemporary forest-side building is atmospheric in the winter. Egerbakta, Tóvölgy utca 16. ezererdovendeghaz.hu

Templomvölgy Resort

HŰS UDVAR VINTAGE This Tuscan-style peasant house in the south-west corner of the Bükk stands by an eco-friendly garden filled with walnut trees. Breakfast is sourced from local producers. Noszvaj, II. Rákóczi Ferenc út 34. husudvar.hu

TEMPLOMVÖLGY RESORT This award-winning hotel in the forest is a former church and castle. Design, service and gastronomy lend themselves to a quality weekend break – or a posh wedding. Mátrakeresztes, Tóthegyes út 54. templomvolgy.hu

GALYATETŐ TOURIST CENTRE High in the Mátras you can find a guesthouse, apartments, hostel-style bunk beds, camping and even concrete bivouacs atop a lookout tower – plus an on-site bistro. Galyatető, Kodály Zoltán sétány. galyacentrum.hu 52

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Snowshoeing in the Mátra

5 SNOWY ACTIVITIES IN THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK HORSE SLEDGING IN SZILVÁSVÁRAD There’s little more romantic than riding on a horse-drawn sledge by the woods of Szilvásvárad. Tours last an hour and set off from the High-Tech store in Mátrafüred. hsb.hu SNOW FESTIVAL IN MÁTRASZENTISTVÁN Every January, Mátraszentistván Ski Park offers free ski and snowboard lessons, concerts, a ski disco, a veteran ski and snowboard contest and other fun attractions. 24-26 Jan. Mátraszentistván Sípark, Sípálya utca 1. facebook.com/hofesztival SNOWSHOEING IN THE MÁTRA Anyone who can walk, can snowshoe – no skiing experience is required. Here in the Mátra, this has become a popular winter activity, especially when using headlamps at night. hsb.hu DOG SLEDGING IN THE MÁTRA Thanks to European champion dog-sledger Tamás Hering, you can feel like you are in Alaska in the Mátra. Disregard convention and take part in an authentic experience. Mátrafüred, Párádi út 1. kutyafogatturamatra.hu SKI TOURING IN THE BÜKK Ski touring is a lot of fun in the Bükk as there are heaps of untouched snow for several weeks of the year and, apart from a few deer, the hillsides are all yours. turasi.hu

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THERMAL BATHS IN THE AREA In the 16th century, the Turks invaded Hungary and stayed for nearly 150 years. During this time, they discovered the several hot springs that stretch underneath the area, and built two traditional Turkish baths in Eger. The many hot spots also turned out to be highly beneficial for the region’s wine production – in Europe, perhaps only Tuscany is similar. Today, after visiting the wine cellars or taking a hike amid the snowy mountains, nothing is better than immersing yourself in the warm thermal waters, sweating during a special demonstration at a sauna or admiring the hot steam rising above the outdoor pools. Recommended destinations include the atmospheric salt hill at Egerszalók, the cave baths at Demjén and the centuries-old Turkish Baths in Eger, where sitting beneath the golden dome is a magical experience.

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Macok Bisztró

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

Trifla

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

MACOK BISZTRÓ At this high-quality contemporary bistro lined with original art, visitors can dine on game or trout from Szilvásvárad. Adjoining stablemate brumbrum offers fine tapas. Eger, Tinódi Sebestyén tér 4. facebook.com/MacokBisztro

5 TOP DINING DESTINATIONS IN EGER AND AROUND Macok Bisztró

ÉLJEN VEGÁN KIKÖTŐ This atmospheric waterside eatery caters to vegans with tasty dishes made from high-quality organic ingredients free from animal products. Open weekdays only, until 4pm. Eger, Kossuth Lajos utca 13. eljenvegankikoto.hu

TRIFLA Daring and creative Trifla pleases gourmets with extravagant dishes such as escargots in garlic butter, Provence-style frogs’ legs or marrowbone with beef tongue. Eger, Széchenyi utca 9. triflaeger.hu

VADÁSZ ÉTTEREM No hike around the Bükk hills can end without a bowl of hearty game stew, venison with dumplings and forest-fruit jam. On-site lodging is similarly hunter-themed. Répáshuta, Kossuth utca 8. vadaszetterem.hu BORI MAMI This elegant but informal restaurant is the number one dining destination in Gyöngyös. Traditional flavours feature in modern dishes and ingredients are locally sourced. Gyöngyös, Belváros tér 7. borimami.hu 58

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EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

St Andrea

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

BOLYKI – BULL’S BLOOD SUPERIOR 2015 This aromatic, smoky and spicy variety, with notes of blackcurrant and cranberry, is based on Eger’s signature Kékfrankos, matured in the cellars of this top winemaker. bolykipinceszet.hu GÁL TIBOR PINCÉSZET – SÍKHEGY 2015 Also based on Kékfrankos, combined with Kadarka, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, plum and red berries hide inside this Síkhegy 2015. Make sure to let it breathe. galtibor.hu JUHÁSZ – EGRI KÉKFRANKOS GRAND SELECTION 2011 This fullbodied wine of earthy and smoky character has aromas of beetroot. Raisins and plum sweeten it up, and its acidity makes it a perfect pairing for a meal. juhaszvin.hu KOVÁCS ÉS LÁNYA – MERLOT 2013 With a colour like a ruby evening dress and a scent like a red-berry perfume, this Merlot made by a family winery is considered one of the nicest wines in the Mátra. kovacseslanya.hu

7 LOCAL RED WINES YOU MUST TRY To try red wine, the local Kékfrankos and Bull’s Blood should be decent at every cellar you visit. If you prefer white, select the equivalent of Bull’s Blood, Egri Csillag.

Macok Bisztró

ST ANDREA – NAGYKADARKA 2016 King among the Kadarkas, this one is fresh, acidic and dynamic, with a touch of mature plum, cherry and chocolate. Once poured for two, it’s perfect for an intimate chat. standrea.com

SZŐKE MÁTYÁS – CABERNET BARRIQUE 2011 In this mysteriously deep red wine, spicy Eastern scents and exotic vanilla flavours mingle, with a soupçon of cherry and raspberry covered in dark chocolate. szokematyas.hu

THUMMERER – RÉBUS EGRI CUVÉE SUPERIOR 2012 The alcohol content of this wine nicely warms it, and you, on a cold day. The scent of tobacco, blackberry and plum spiced with black pepper and clove feature together. thummerer.hu 60

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Dűlő

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

Pizza, Kávé, Világbéke

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

KESZEGSÜTŐ Although a bit out of the way east of the city centre, many head here for the fish crackling made from a secret recipe, and for fresh and crisp fish from the Tisza. József Attila utca 40. keszegsuto.hu ZIP’S BREWHOUSE Sleek and contemporary Zip’s at the Macropolis retail hub combines own-brewed ales with superior pub food, charcoal-grilled trout, chicken wings and ćevapi, a speciality. Arany János tér 1. zips.hu

PIZZA, KÁVÉ, VILÁGBÉKE On the main drag, ‘Pizza, Coffee, World Peace’ makes its pizzas Roman-style, airy and crispy. Toppings are classic Italian but surprises like pumpkin or fig also feature. Széchenyi István út 19. facebook.com/pizzakavevilagbeke

Dűlő

5 TOP PLACES TO EAT IN MISKOLC

VÉGÁLLOMÁS This cool bistro operates at the terminal of the Lillafüred narrow-gauge railway. Péter Várvizi’s creative cuisine is mostly Hungarian, with daringly spicy touches. Dorottya utca 1. vegallomasetterem.hu DŰLŐ In the leafy footsteps of Avas, the Dűlő is worth the ten-minute stroll from town for its trout, venison and mangalica, not to mention the bargain weekday lunches. Görgey Artúr utca 10. dulo.hu 62

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Eger Spring Festival

EGER, THE MÁTRA AND THE BÜKK

VÖRÖSKŐ SPRINGS In early spring when the snow melts, a natural phenomenon occurs at Vöröskő Springs near Felsőtárkány in the Bükk National Park: waters rush out with geyser-like force. en.bnpi.hu LILLAFÜRED FOREST TRAIN From late March, eight narrow-gauge trains a day run from Dorottya utca at the Diósgyőr end of Miskolc, through bucolic Lillafüred in bloom. Journey time 30 minutes. laev.hu

Eger Spring Festival

SAUNA NIGHTS AT BARLANGFÜRDŐ What better way to emerge from hibernation than a Saturday night’s soaking at the Cave Baths in Miskolctapolca, where illuminated indoor pools stay open until midnight. Pazár István sétány 1. barlangfurdo.hu

5 GREAT THINGS TO DO IN SPRING EGER SPRING FESTIVAL During this six-week event, exhibitions, concerts, dance shows and other cultural attractions draw visitors to the city’s streets, squares and main shopping mall. 15 Mar-1 May. egritavaszifesztival.hu SNOWDROPS IN LILLAFÜRED On the edge of Miskolc, accessed by public transport, Lillafüred is a fairytale landscape of forests, streams and waterfalls, with stunning snowdrop fields in March. hellomiskolc.hu/Lillafured 64

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TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

ARRIVAL

Tokaj is synonymous with sweet Aszú wine, ready for tasting every January. The town, where the Tisza meets the Bodrog, is small and cosy, surrounded by a World Heritage wine region, the landscapes of Zemplén and the wildlife of the Upper Tisza. Historic castles provide further reason to visit.

By train/bus: Trains leave Budapest Keleti for Tokaj every 2hrs, journey time 2hrs 45mins. From there, Sárospatak is under an hour by bus..

By car: From Budapest, take the M3 motorway towards Miskolc. From there, it’s 30 minutes to Mád, Tarcal or Tokaj.

ATTRACTIONS To visit Tokaj and a couple of wine cellars, one day should be enough, but to explore the whole wine region, Mád and other settlements, you’ll need a car and a long weekend.

INFORMATION •• tokaj-turizmus.hu •• mad.info.hu

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BOLDOGKŐVÁRALJA

NYÍREGYHÁZA ZOO MÁD SYNAGOGUE

AQUARIUS ADVENTURE BATHS

ST TERESA CHAPEL TOKAJ WORLD HERITAGE WINE MUSEUM

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TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

Road Trip

TOKAJ ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: Starting in Mád, you can have lunch at award-winning Gusteau, then take a walk through the historic Baroque streets of Tokaj, sipping a glass of fine Furmint at the Dobogó Winery. A 15-minute drive from Tokaj takes you to the village of Tarcal, where luxury lodging awaits at the five-star Andrássy Rezidencia or the Degenfeld Castle Hotel, each ideal for a wine-and-spa break.

SATURDAY: After breakfast, drive to Sárospatak to admire monumental Rákóczi Castle, then take a hike around picturesque Megyer Hill tarn. In the afternoon, you can also visit Regéc Castle, former home of Ferenc Rákóczi, who fought for Hungarian independence in the early 1700s. Hopping aboard the narrowgauge Pálházi Forest Railway is a relaxing activity for the whole family. Alternatively, explore the Felső-Tisza region brimming with wildlife and visit Nyíregyháza Zoo. SUNDAY: Start the day at the village of Boldogkőváralja to admire its medieval castle. The Bestillo distillery offers pálinka varieties. Before you bid farewell to this sprawling wine region, have lunch at Anyukám Mondta, a muchcoveted dining destination in Encs. 70

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TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

Mád Synagogue

TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

REGÉC CASTLE The former home of Hungarian leader Rákóczi later served as a base for his struggle against the Habsburgs in the 1700s. Partly accessible on foot, its ruins offer fine views. Regéc. regecivar.hu VIZSOLY BIBLE Still in use today, this 16th-century volume was the first Bible to be printed in Hungarian. This copy is kept on permanent display in the Vizsoly Reformed Church. Vizsoly, Szent János utca 123. vizsolyibiblia.hu MÁD SYNAGOGUE A Jewish place of worship was functioning in Mád in the 1700s but this impressive synagogue is a modern-day rebuild, funded from New York and completed in 2003. Mád, Táncsics utca 38. mad.info.hu/zsinagoga

7 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS IN AND AROUND TOKAJ TOKAJ MAIN SQUARE Stroll around this focal crossroads, where colourful houses and Baroque façades are towered over by soaring church spires, and the Bacchus fountain invites imbibery. Tokaj, Kossuth tér 4. tokaj.hu SWABIAN CELLARS OF HERCEGKÚT Found in Kőporos and on Gombos Hill, triangular stone cellars emerge from the ground, built on several levels. Wine tasting is available with prior reservation. hercegkut.hu

Swabian cellars of Hercegkút

SÁROSPATAK REFORMED COLLEGE LIBRARY Housing more than half a million volumes, this grand library contains rarities by Hungarian and foreign authors, multiple codices and incunabula. Guided tours available. Sárospatak, Rákóczi út 1. patakcollege.hu

SÁROSPATAK CASTLE Another base for the Rákóczi and Kuruc rebellions of the 1700s, this imposing building retains the monumental walls of the Red Tower, its loggias and courtyard columns. Sárospatak, Szent Erzsébet út 19. rakoczimuzeum.hu 72

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5 COSY SPOTS FOR SAMPLING WINE IN WINTER BÉRES VINEYARDS Following an intoxicating tour around the cellars, guests at this panoramic estate can lounge in front of the fireplace during winter with a glass of aszú in hand. Erdőbénye. beresbor.hu

DOBOGÓ WINERY Run by the renowned Zwack beverage dynasty of Unicum fame, this homely estate is best known for its Furmint wines and golden aszú selection. Booking is recommended. Tokaj, Dózsa György út 1. dobogo.hu ELSŐ MÁDI BORHÁZ A year-round destination for gastronomic pleasures, this operation in Mád is where you can pair country-style dishes with Szamorodni, Hárslevelű, Furmint and Muscat. Mád, Hunyadi János utca. elsomadiborhaz.hu

Patricius Winery

PATRICIUS WINERY Overlooking the rolling hills and sweeping vineyards, this prominent property is the place to sip elegant Furmint, floral-scented Muscat, even sparkling volcanic wine. Bodrogkisfalud 3357, Várhegy dűlő. patricius.hu

ANDRÁSSY REZIDENCIA The only five-star hotel in the area features impressive elements in every little detail. Within, a small hall with a fireplace is the perfect spot for languid sampling. Tarcal, Fő utca 94. andrassyrezidencia.hu

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TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

Disznókő

TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

DISZNÓKŐ The first written record of the Disznókő vineyards dates back to 1413. The estate also organises interactive tours around its cellar, where essence is served. Mezőzombor, Disznókő dűlő. disznoko.hu TOKAJ OREMUS Professionalism is palpable at this aristocratic building, home of the Tokaj Oremus winery, where spectacular underground cellars store tipples older than any visitor. Tolcsva, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Endre utca 45. tokajoremus.com

5 PLACES TO DISCOVER THE HISTORY OF TOKAJ WINE ASZÚHÁZ At this handy resource, visitors can find out about how the famed Tokaji aszú wine is made, films showing the process firsthand, before they explore the wine archive. Mád, Batthyány utca 53. aszuhaz.hu

Surprisingly, the world’s sweetest wine, Tokaji Essence, contains the least amount of alcohol and the most acids. Its residual sugar content is twice that of an average dry wine, its alcohol

Tokaj World Heritage Wine Museum

TOKAJ HÉTSZŐLŐ For sampling in traditional surroundings, head to the Rákóczi cellar on Tokaj’s main square. Drinking in this haven for Tokaji wines takes you back centuries. Tokaj, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky Endre út 19. tokajhetszolo.com

content only 1-2%. TOKAJ WORLD HERITAGE WINE MUSEUM Learn about the history of the Tokaj region at this exhibition space, displaying barrels, a wine press and tools used in viticulture. Special advent events feature. Tokaj, Serház utca 55. bormuzeum.eu 76

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INTERVIEW

Péteárr

A visit to Tokaj is not comple te, especially in winter, without sampling the famed sweet Aszú. But what makes a good Aszú? We asked Péter Molnár, owner of the Patricius Winery.

Moln

WLH: How does a quality Aszú

taste?

PM: A beautiful Aszú wine disp lays everything that makes Tokaj unique in the wor ld: noble rot and the characteristics of the terroir, as well as the rich scents and flavours of this nob le rot, supported in the background by the arom as of a finely crafted, dutiful barrel and maturation in the bottle. Elegance, balance and a rich mineral quality appear in the glass, bringing everything to life. WLH: How would a local desc ribe the charm of the Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region?

Photo: Attila Polyák

PM: No other region shines as ours does. Surrounded by an untouched, gorgeous land scape, we are blessed with particular vine-growing and wine-producing conditions. Here nature, history and win e production live together, closely interwoven yet naturally , as in few other places in the world.

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TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

Sárga Borház

TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

GUSTEAU Award-winning culinary sanctuary Gusteau entices epicureans with fried lamb’s liver, pigeon and goat’s meat, created by chef Gábor Horváth and served with style. Mád, Batthyány utca 51. gusteaumuhely.com SÁRGA BORHÁZ Housed in a 19th-century Classicist building, the Yellow Winery serves foie gras, venison stew and the classic Hungarian pasta with curd cheese, bacon and sour cream. Tarcal Disznókő vineyard, near Road 37. sargaborhaz.hu A BOROS Tuck into smoked trout, Tokaji aszú duck terrine and greycattle steak at this bistro-style hangout, offering a selection of local wines for pairing with dishes. Sárospatak, Rákóczi utca 21. aboros.hu

7 RESTAURANTS FOR A FINE FEAST IN AND AROUND TOKAJ

Percze

HEDONIST RESTAURANT & BAR At this unconventional venue, curried cauliflower soup, rabbit leg with sage, and truffle-fattened duck liver brûlée all feature. Breakfasts include a full English. Nyíregyháza, Benczúr tér 23. hedonistrestaurant.hu

ANYUKÁM MONDTA ‘My Mother Said’ is a converted garage and a long-time favourite with gourmet guests, who flock for breaded mangalica, game and goose liver, plus top-drawer pizzas. Encs, Petőfi Sándor utca 57. anyukammondta.hu LABOR BISTRO Contemporary LaBor Bistro offers grey-cattle soup, porcini ravioli, even fallow deer with parsnip purée. Weekday lunches are a steal. Breakfast is served to hotel guests. Tokaj, Bethlen Gábor utca 1. laborbistro.hu PERCZE Hungarian hospitality lives up to its heritage here – Sunday lunch means traditional meat soup, pálinka, a main dish, a rich dessert and a little local live music. Mád, Árpád utca 70. percze.com 80

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3 SPAS OUTSIDE TOKAJ FOR A REFRESHING PLUNGE

ARANYOSI VALLEY A hidden forest trail between Abaújszántó and Erdőbénye leads to this bucolic pasture, a landscape equally enticing when it’s snow-covered or dotted with snowdrops. BOLDOGKŐÚJFALVA STONE FIELD During winter, when vegetation is sparse, this natural site containing an expanse of stones is picture-perfect, especially when bathed in stunning light at sunrise. Boldogkőújfalu

KISVÁRDA The city’s recently modernised aqua park features a swimming pool, a pair of thermal-water facilities, a children’s pool, a hot tub and saunas, dry and steam. Kisvárda, Városmajor út 43. facebook.com/aquacinemakisvarda MÁTÉSZALKA Gushing from almost 1,000 metres beneath the ground, mineral-rich waters entice soakers for muscle-melting pleasure at Mátészalka baths, equipped with a sauna. Mátészalka, Alkotmány utca 2A. szalkaviz.com

FÜZÉR CASTLE One of the most beautiful ruins in Hungary is perched atop a rocky hill. During winter, its panorama with the surrounding village setting is particularly mesmerising. fuzerivar.hu

NYÍREGYHÁZA The multi-functional Sóstó aqua park features plenty of hot- and cold-water facilities, a Kneipp-pool and spa treatments such as rejuvenating massages and facials. Nyíregyháza-Sóstógyógyfürdő, Fürdőház tér 2. sostort.hu

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Boldogkőújfalvi kőtenger

3 HIDDEN ATTRACTIONS TO DISCOVER AROUND ZEMPLÉN IN WINTER

Aquarius Nyíregyháza

TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

Boldogkőújfalva stone field

TOKAJ, ZEMPLÉN AND UPPER TISZA

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

ARRIVAL

Hungary’s second city and now a budget-air hub, Debrecen is attracting ever more tourists with a stronger gastronomic and cultural offering. Exhibitions at arts centre MODEM this winter include a big hitter by Surrealist icon Man Ray. Beyond, unique landscapes and unusual wildlife show different sides of Hortobágy National Park and Lake Tisza in winter and spring.

By plane: Airport, 5km south of town, serves Wizz Air flights from a dozen cities including London, Dortmund, Basel, Tel Aviv and Moscow. A shuttle bus links with the train station and city centre. By car: From Budapest, head for Miskolc on the M3, turning off shortly before Debrecen onto Main Road 33. Allow an overall 2hrs 30mins. By train/bus: Trains set off from Budapest Nyugati for Debrecen every hour, journey time nearly 3hrs. Direct from Ferihegy, it’s 2hrs 30mins.

ATTRACTIONS With its galleries and historic landmarks, there’s easily enough in Debrecen for a day’s exploration, more if you factor in the Aquaticum spa in the green zone around the university. A visit to Hortobágy National Park and/or Lake Tisza can extend your stay to a whole weekend.

INFORMATION •• •• •• ••

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debrecen.hu exploredebrecen.hu hnp.hu lake-tisza.hu

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND

MODEM LAKE TISZA

NAGYERDŐ PARK

HORTOBÁGY WILDLIFE PARK

GREAT CHURCH

HAJDÚSZOBOSZLÓ SPA

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND

Road Trip

DEBRECEN ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: Explore Debrecen city centre, getting your bearings from the urban panorama atop the Great Church. Stroll down Piac utca, past the façades from various eras. Nearby is the Déri Museum and its famed trilogy by late 19th-century Realist Munkácsy, and contemporary art at MODEM. The Icon would be a fine choice for dinner. Drinks are then recommended at the Roncsbár.

SATURDAY: Take the number 1 tram through the city centre to the wooded recreation zone north of town, where you find Debrecen University and a cluster of spas. Pack your swimming gear, as you can spend the rest of the day at Aquaticum – or even trek out to the aquapark at Hajdúszoboszló.

SUNDAY: In spring, the Hortobágy National Park teems with birdlife. After visits to the Shepherd Museum and Crane Visitor Centre, have lunch at the Hortobágy Inn opposite. At Lake Tisza, winter creates spectacular icy scenes, a picture-postcard memory to take home with you.

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND

Debrecen University

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

DEBRECEN UNIVERSITY For all their Classical and Neo-Baroque grandeur, the imposing edifices of Debrecen University date back less than a century. The huge library alone merits a visit. Egyetem tér 1. unideb.hu DÉRI MUSEUM Along with the main draw, a huge trilogy by 19th-century artist Mihály Munkácsy that spent decades in the USA, the Déri has rare Egyptian and Japanese samurai relics. Déri tér 1. derimuzeum.hu MODEM Brimming with significant modern and contemporary art, MODEM houses the permanent Antal-Lusztig Collection and hosts top-notch temporary exhibitions by big-name artists. Baltazár Dezső tér 1. modemart.hu

GREAT CHURCH Following the firestorm of 1802, this Neo-Classical rebuild featured twin towers but not a dome as first planned. Here Kossuth declared Hungarian independence in 1848. Kossuth tér 1. nagytemplom.hu

MODEM

7 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS IN DEBRECEN

B24 GALLERY The little sister of MODEM has revived this neglected stretch of downtown Debrecen thanks to its regular agenda of fresh, challenging, thought-provoking art. Batthyány utca 24. b24galeria.hu

REFORMED COLLEGE Founded in 1538, alma mater of writers such as Magda Szabó, the Reformed College hosted Hungary’s national assembly in 1849 and December 1944 while conflict raged. Kálvin tér 16. drk.hu ORTHODOX SYNAGOGUE Built in 1893, the largest synagogue in provincial Hungary was restored and reopened as a place of worship, exhibition space, concert venue and cultural centre in 2015. Pásti utca 4. dzsh.hu 90

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INTERVIEW

Edit i

Edit Koroknai is young, determ ined and ambitious. She knows what she wants to create with the cultural centre she heads up, the largest modern and contemporary art space in provincial Hunga ry, MODEM. She was here when it starte d out in 2006 and now, after five years at Bud apest’s Kunsthalle, she has returned as its director.

Korokna

WLH: MODEM has been part of the Debrecen brand for 12 years and an important tour ist destination. How will it be new and different under your administration?

Photo: Zsombor Szőlősi

EK: This year, we are operati ng with a completely new set-up, guaranteeing full prof essional independence and quality. We do not have a permanent exhibition, but we stage two major sho ws a year. In 2018, Impressions attracted 40,000 visitors, almost half from outside town, and we’re exp ecting to do as well, if not better, with the Man Ray exh ibition in December. We continue to present mod ern classics, but we are open to young artists just star ting out. Conceptually, we focus on art from East and Central Europe, looking to present their questions and answers in a social and historical context.

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND

Roncsbár

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

RONCSBÁR At this sprawling and imaginative ruin bar, you can find an intimate corner, sample a rare pálinka, tuck into grilled meat and catch a live act – all on the same night. Csapó utca 27. roncsbar.hu INCOGNITO CLUB A recent agenda here featured wild synth music, a book launch, biker rock, acoustic sounds and a quiz night, all in one week, and all within friendly, jazzy surroundings. Eötvös utca 11. incognitoclub.hu

DiVino

KLINIKA If it’s Thursday night, it must be Klinyo, student parties that stretch until 5am. It’s not all youthful hedonism – there are occasional wine tastings here, too. Nagyerdei körút 98. klinikaklub.hu

5 NIGHTLIFE SPOTS FOR WINTER DIVINO Open evenings only and weekends until 2am, DiVino is not just a wine bar. Yes, the Gál and Gere labels feature, but also quality snacks and platters, and lively chatter. Piac utca 18. debrecen. divinoborbar.hu

At weekends, the party only starts up after ten o’clock, so there’s time to have dinner or rub shoulders with the locals in a retro pub or two. Then head for Hal köz, the city’s bar hub.

MASZEK AZ UTCABÁR Here’s where the party starts in the Hal köz bar hub, where prosecco, champagne and spumante flow with abandon in retro yet hypermodern surroundings. Cool music, too. Simonffy utca 2A. maszekdebrecen.hu

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND

Black Sheep

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

BONITA BISZTRÓ What started as the Szultánkenyér in Békéscsaba has drifted across eastern Hungary and broadened its remit to offer wood-fired pizzas topped by genuine Italian ingredients. Piac utca 21. bonitabisztro.hu BLACK SHEEP Not only a new-wave café, but a fine spot for topclass snacks and cakes. The beef is succulent, the pork chop smoked by the owner’s father and the croissants baked on-site. Csapó utca 23. black-sheep.hu THE FLAT BISZTRÓ Encouraging diners to feel at home – hence ‘The Flat’, in a standalone house on a main road into town – this neat venue aims to offer authentic paella and pizzas. Balmazújvárosi út 1. flat-pizza-debrecen.hu WOW Here is where you find the finest scones in Debrecen, served from a street window, along with local strudel with special fillings and waffles with particular toppings. Csapó utca 9

Ikon

7 DESTINATIONS FOR CULINARY DELIGHTS IKON The flagship of high-end gastronomy in Debrecen, Ikon needn’t mean high prices – its weekday lunch menu is a steal. Find a table on the terrace or reserve at weekends. Piac utca 23. ikonrestaurant.hu NONNA ROSA Chateaubriand, lamb steak, lobster, langoustines and superior pizzas are served in cosmopolitan surroundings embellished by a pretty terrace and contemporary décor. Piac utca 12. nonna.hu KASHMIR This hidden little treasure in a side street offers spicy cuisine from mountainous north India. While waiting for your freshly prepared dishes, sip a smooth lassi. Thaly Kálmán utca 2. kashmirdebrecen.hu 96

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WHAT IS A DEBRECZINER? Known across all Central Europe, its fame spread across the former Habsburg realm by German merchants, the Debrecziner is a sausage named after its city of origin. Typically sold at markets, it comes in pairs, joined at one end. Its main varieties comprise the following ingredients: •• Traditional: a pair of pure beef sausages. •• Standard: a pair of sausages comprising around 30% beef and 70% pork or mangalica, a recently revived superior Hungarian pork. •• Kosher: a pair of sausages made from kosher cuts of beef or beef and lamb. •• Premium: a pair of sausages made from either pure pork or pure mangalica. It is forbidden to grind the ingredients, only slice them up with a knife. The unique seasoning (salt, pepper, cumin, garlic, paprika) is kept secret, and the sausage is slightly smoked. They are better steamed than cooked, though some also swear by having them baked. The classic size is 30-32mm wide, 120-140mm long.

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Skating on Lake Tisza

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

Poroszló

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

SKATING AT ABÁDSZALÓK This bay freezes over evenly, its size suiting larger skating tours. Gaps in the ice are small but don’t approach any birds. Braver visitors can ride their bikes. abadikikoto.hu ABÁDSZALÓK PIG FESTIVAL Every March, Abádszalók creates a weekend’s festival around that most Hungarian of traditions, a pig slaughter. After the porkers are put to the sword, the feast begins. bollerverseny.com

ÖKOCENTRUM Discover the flora and fauna of the Tisza Valley at Europe’s largest freshwater aquarium. You can see oncenative sturgeons and belugas up close in a glass tunnel. Poroszló, Kossuth Lajos utca 4. tiszataviokocentrum.hu ICE TOURS OF LAKE TISZA Tours start at Poroszló, taking in the Valki Basin otherwise inaccessible by boat. No wading boots are needed – otter dens and cormorants haunts are easily visible. Poroszló

Abádszalók Pig Festival

5 EXCITING ATTRACTIONS AROUND LAKE TISZA IN WINTER

AROUND THE DAM Lake Tisza comprises artificial structures and flood-protection pools. This reduces the water level in winter when the plain and tree trunks become visible to visiting cyclists. kotivizig.hu 100

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DEBRECEN AND AROUND

5 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS AT HORTOBÁGY IN WINTER CRANE WATCHING The iconic creature of Hortobágy National Park is this majestic migratory bird with the trumpeting call. Find out more from the interactive exhibits at the visitor centre. Petőfi tér 9. hnp.hu

BIRD HOSPITAL Here they save injured birds but this is also an exhibition centre showing their habitat, and a bird park. Time it right and you might just see treatment in progress. Petőfi tér 6. madarpark.hu WILDLIFE PARK Here you can observe animals such as wolves, jackals, wild horses, vultures and pelicans, as well as wild cats, foxes and white-tailed eagles in their natural habitats. Petőfi tér. hnp.hu

In winter, the Hungarian plains or puszta are more wild and mysterious than in summer, conjuring thoughts of endless steppes. To appreciate the landscape, climb one of the lookout towers.

HORTOBÁGY LIVING WORLD In one part of the Hortobágy National Park Visitor Centre, this exhibition depicts its rich wildlife and unique habitat with models and drawings. Free admission. Petőfi tér 9. hnp.hu SZÁLKAHALOM STUDY TRAIL Snaking through a unique saline landscape, this study trail sets out from the Szálkahalom burial mound, built by nomadic tribes before the Hungarian conquest of 895. Hortobágy, 79km stone on Road 33. hnp.hu 102

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3 CULTURAL EVENTS TO LOOK OUT FOR AT THE KÖLCSEY KÖZPONT ATLANTISZ Running for a month from 11 December, this curious exhibition showcases the work, and the worldview, of Cegléd-born Sándor Apáti-Tóth, a photographer since the age of six. 11 Dec-13 Jan. Hunyadi utca 1-3. kolcseykozpont.hu

Zelemér church ruins

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

Kodály Philharmonic

DEBRECEN AND AROUND

3 SPRING OUTINGS AROUND DEBRECEN PALLAG An easy jaunt along straight concrete from town, the hike to Pallag north of the university takes in extensive greenery, and artisanal eats at the Pallag Spájz bakery. facebook.com/pallagspajz

MOSCOW BOLSHOI Soloists from the world’s most prominent ballet and opera company come to Debrecen in January, to perform pieces by Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov, Verdi and Puccini. 8 Jan. Hunyadi utca 1-3. kolcseykozpont.hu

ZELEMÉR CHURCH RUINS A marked trail leads the ten or so kilometres north-west from Debrecen to these medieval ruins dating back to 1310, the church later destroyed by Turks and Tatars. bodaszolo.hu

KODÁLY PHILHARMONIC Once a month at least, this orchestra based at the Kölcsey Központ appear here – such as for Hungarian Culture Day when pieces by Bartók and Kodály will be performed. 22 Jan. Hunyadi utca 1-3. kolcseykozpont.hu

FANCSIKA LAKES Along the so-called Panorama Road that cuts through greenery east of Debrecen, you can take in the Fancsika Lakes then stop at the Erdőspuszta Club Hotel for Sunday brunch. Diószegi/Panoráma út. erdospuszta-clubhotel.hu

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SZEGED AND AROUND

ARRIVAL

The third largest city in Hungary, Szeged is known for its spicy fish soup, best enjoyed beside the River Tisza. A cultural hub and home to a prominent university, Szeged is a great weekend break, with sights, hikes and spas found in nearby Makó, Hódmezővásárhely and Gyula.

By car: From Budapest, Szeged is a twohour drive down the M5 motorway. Once you’re approaching town, head north to reach the centre. By train/bus: Direct trains to Szeged leave hourly from Budapest Nyugati, journey time 2hrs 20mins. The bus from Népliget takes three hours.

ATTRACTIONS After a wander around the focal square of Dóm tér and surrounding landmarks, followed by a riverside dinner, there’s still plenty to keep you occupied in and around Szeged for the whole weekend.

INFORMATION •• szegedtourism.hu •• knp.nemzetipark.gov.hu

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SZEGED AND AROUND

GYULA ALMÁSY MANSION

HÓDMEZŐVÁSÁRHELY POINT OF REMEMBRANCE GYULA CASTLE

SZEGED DÓM TÉR

MAKÓ HAGYMATIKUM

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Road Trip

SZEGED ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: Stroll the streets of Szeged city centre and admire the twin spires of the Votive Church, before a stroll along the River Tisza under the towering trees. Enjoy spicy fish soup at the waterfront Öreg Kőrössy Halászcsárda and don’t miss out on the evening buzz on Kárász utca.

SATURDAY: Take a ride on one of the old trams and perhaps pop into the Botanical Garden. Have an early dinner at Bistorant followed by a coffee and cake at Süti nem süti. A few drinks at Nyugi is the best way to end the day.

SUNDAY: After Eggs Benny with brioche for breakfast at Tiszavirág, visit the New Synagogue on Jósika utca and City Hall, with Habsburg monarchs depicted on the façade. Head to Makó to soak in the Hagymatikum thermal baths designed by key architect Imre Makovecz, before a tasty burger and fine wine at Kapca back in Szeged. 110

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SZEGED AND AROUND Bridge of Sighs

SZEGED AND AROUND

REÖK PALACE The nephew of 19th-century painter Mihály Munkácsy built this Art Nouveau icon. Water motifs and waving surfaces run throughout – the building also hosts exhibitions. Tisza Lajos körút 56. reok.hu HEROES’ GATE After World War I, a gate was built on the boulevard enclosing the city centre, in memory of 12,000 fallen soldiers from Szeged. Note the stunning frescos by Vilmos Aba-Novák. Boldogasszony sugárút BOTANICAL GARDEN A little lake filled with Indian lotuses, a Japanese garden and a tropical greenhouse fill this arboretum. Open through winter but best visited in the sunny days of spring. Lövölde út 42. fuveszkert.u-szeged.hu Reök Palace

7 UNMISSABLE SIGHTS IN SZEGED DÓM TÉR Towered over by the twin spires of the Votive Church, the city’s main square hosts the Christmas fair in December. Listen out for the hourly tunes of the Musical Clock. K ÁRÁSZ UTCA Szeged’s main pedestrianised thoroughfare is lined with intriguing sculptures, as well as stylish, historic buildings such as the distinctively red Eisenstadter House. BRIDGE OF SIGHS Szeged’s very own Bridge of Sighs alongside City Hall is a lovely architectural detail. Legend has it that Emperor Franz Josef once passed over this little walkway. Széchenyi tér 15 NEW SYNAGOGUE Hungary’s second biggest synagogue blends Art Nouveau with a touch of Moorish Revival thrown in. Manó Róth, brother of famed mosaicist Miksa, created the stained glass. Jósika utca 10 112

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Vasalóház

SZEGED AND AROUND

Gróf-palota

SZEGED AND AROUND

BÉRHÁZ (VASALÓHÁZ) Locals refer to this spectacular corner building as ‘The Ironhouse’, where comic heads and carved columns echo Art Nouveau. A functioning pharmacy since its opening. Takaréktár utca 8/Horváth Mihály utca 9. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu BEREGI-HÁZ Like a giant jewel box, this building in a row of Szeged palaces typifies Art Nouveau with its lacy forms and floral decorations, and the Oriental effect of its spire. Deák Ferenc utca 22. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu

GRÓF-PALOTA The largest Art Nouveau building in the city centre. You can make out its jutting-out balconies, Oriental-style decorations and peacock so popular in Hungarian folk art. Tisza Lajos körút 20. szegedtourism.hu DEUTSCH-PALOTA Bright colours of green, orange and blue – this distinctive palace is typical of Ödön Lechner and Vilmos Zsolnay, who decorated Szeged with Hungarian folk art. Dózsa utca

Ungár-Mayer-palota

5 AMAZING ART NOUVEAU TREASURES IN TOWN

UNGÁR-MAYER-PALOTA The most beautiful parts of the building are best seen from Dugonics tér. Recognisable from its onion-shaped cupola, which meshes with the gateway over Tábor utca. Kárász utca 16. szecesszio.szegedvaros.hu 114

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Süti nem süti

SZEGED AND AROUND

KÉK ELEFÁNT KÁVÉZÓ Zoli Jarjabka’s Blue Elephant café has two outlets in town, one close to Kárász utca. Both are familyfriendly and provide special training for their baristas. Klauzál tér 5. Szentháromság utca 7. kekelefantkavezo.hu HÉT KÁVÉZÓ This bite-sized café near Széchenyi tér serves quality Italian coffee, mangalica salami sandwiches and reinvented croissants in a laid-back atmosphere. Closed on Sundays. Horváth Mihály utca 7. facebook.com/hetkavezo

Kék Elefánt Kávézó

ANTIQUE CAFE & TEA The atmosphere is antique, but the selection is ever-changing. The Mizudashi cold-brew method is the speciality here, while the tea assortment is also impressive. Petőfi Sándor sugárút 39. facebook.com/AntiqueCafe

5 GREAT PLACES FOR COFFEE AND CAKE SÜTI NEM SÜTI As conveyed through social media on Süti News, there’s a new seasonal cake here every two weeks. Otherwise, opt for a chai latte with Spanish flan or plum soufflé. Tisza Lajos körút 44. facebook.com/sutinemsuti44

In the many new-wave cafés around Szeged, you will soon become acquainted with lightroasted coffee, fruitier and more acidulated than the usual Italian dark-roasted variety. Even the locals drink it without sugar.

SUGAR & CANDY This sophisticated spot in the city centre goes to town on its fancy dessert range, with unicorn cupcakes, gluten-free French chocolate cake and reinvented éclairs. Oskola utca 27. sugarandcandy.hu

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Fish soup

SZEGED AND AROUND

Szeged Christmas Weeks

SZEGED AND AROUND

3 CHARMING CHRISTMAS MARKETS IN AND AROUND SZEGED

3 SPOTS TO SAMPLE SZEGED FISH SOUP

SZEGED CHRISTMAS WEEKS Along with the big wheel set up on Széchenyi tér and stalls on Dugonics tér, Advent candles and a fairytale atmosphere light up Dóm tér as Christmas transforms the city centre. szegedtourism.hu

ROOSEVELT TÉRI HALÁSZCSÁRDA Piquant Szeged-style fish soup is the dish du choix at this restaurant by the bridge in the city centre. If you are a bit more daring, munch on some frogs’ legs, too. Roosevelt tér 12-14. sotarto-halaszcsarda.hu

GYULA ADVENT FAIR On consecutive Sundays through December, this Advent Fair in the city centre awaits visitors with treedecorating competitions, gingerbread stands and festive music. Gyula, Harruckern tér. visitgyula.com

KISKŐRÖSSY HALÁSZCSÁRDA This atmospheric restaurant is found in an old-style peasant house on the banks of the Tisza. The fish soup is amazing, but do try the catfish stew or almond trout. Felső TiszaPart 336. kiskorossyhalaszcsarda.hu

SZENTES ADVENT FAIR One of the most atmospheric Christmas fairs in the region is in this little town. The scent of mulled beer, roast chestnuts, raisin loaf and hot cocoa fill the air. Szentes, Kossuth tér

ÖREG KŐRÖSSY HALÁSZCSÁRDA Delicious Hungarian fish dishes have been made here by the river since the 1930s. Close to but separate from the Kiskőrössy Halászcsárda, also with a sun-catching terrace. Sárga Üdülőtelep 262. oregkorossy.hu

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Tiszavirág

SZEGED AND AROUND

Oldies

SZEGED AND AROUND

A2 GASTRO CAFFÉ Thanks to light-roast coffees, Japanese pan omelettes and other morning boosters, this café is an ideal choice for breakfast. Gluten-free sandwiches also on offer. Dáni utca 4. a2caffe.hu

5 PLACES TO EAT IF YOU DON’T FANCY FISH SOUP Kapca Café

TISZAVIRÁG One of the best restaurants and hotels in Szeged, Tiszavirág sits in a modernised heritage building, its kitchen conjuring up the seasonal specialities of southern Hungary. Hajnóczy utca 1B. tiszaviragszeged.hu

BISTORANT If you are after high-quality street food, a juicy burger or traditional pigs’ trotters, look no further. This modern and laid-back bistro should satisfy all cravings. Oroszlán utca 8. bistorant.hu/szeged

OLDIES A rustic feel and a fireplace make this restaurant atmospheric. Whether you fancy a Mediterranean menu, a BBQ dish or a colourful salad, you won’t leave disappointed. Oroszlán utca 6. oldiesszeged.hu KAPCA CAFÉ AND BISTRO Hearty, heavenly burgers – beef-andblackberry, anybody? – can be washed with whichever craft beer is on tap that particular week, then followed by Black Sheep coffee. Rákóczi utca 1. facebook.com/kapca.cafe 120

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Hungi Vígadó (Photo: Gábor Juhász)

SZEGED AND AROUND

Nyugi kert

SZEGED AND AROUND

NAPFÉNY MŰTEREM Szeged’s new-wave craft-beer bar offers 14 types of draught, a good range in bottles, decent food and quality coffee. An open kitchen operates in the middle of it all. Széchenyi tér 2A. facebook.com/napfenymuterem HUNGI VIGADÓ A stylish locale in Stefánia Park awaits with good coffee and cakes, a range of wines and cocktails such as the house Hungi-Bungi. Concerts and cabarets also feature. Stefánia 8. hungiszeged.hu

NYUGI KERT Close to a range of other options opposite the university, this wallet-friendly drinkery usually fills with students, enjoying a coffee or spritzer in laid-back surroundings. Vitéz utca 28 BLUES CAFÉ & 7-ES MEGÁLLÓ The yellow tram car standing outside this pub sets the mood before you enter, whether it’s for a winter warm-up or an intimate chat over a red or white from Villány. Somogyi utca 20. bluescafe7esmegallo.hu BOHÉM TANYA Simple, authentic and fuss-free. Usually filled with students, this pub near Heroes’ Gate features an adjacent intimate courtyard open on warm afternoons. Closed Sundays. Szentháromság utca 6. facebook.com/bohemtanyaszeged 122

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Hungi Vígadó (Photo: Gábor Juhász)

5 COSY SPOTS FOR A DAYTIME DRINK

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MAKÓ HAGYMATIKUM Designed by key architect Imre Makovecz in the shape of an onion, symbol of Makó, the family-friendly spa here features a mud bath, carbonated waters and relaxing saunas. Makó, Makovecz tér 6. hagymatikum.hu

GYULA CASTLE BATHS When the outdoor pools fill with snow, sink into these healing thermal and mineral waters inside. Beery sauna sessions also held, some on Saturdays until midnight. Gyula, Várkert utca 2. varfurdo.hu

ANNA BATHS The famous medicinal waters of Anna Springs has nourished this Szeged landmark for more than 100 years. If you want to relax, try the Finnish saunas and bubble baths. Szeged, Tisza Lajos körút 24. szegedsport.hu

Makó Hagymatikum

3 WINTER SPAS IN AND AROUND SZEGED

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MAKÓ ONIONS With an onion statue in the centre of town and an Onion Festival held every September since 1991, Makó obviously knows its onions, considered to be the best in Hungary. SZEGED PAPRIKA As synonymous with Szeged as fish soup, paprika was developed as a spice in the 1800s. As outlined at the city’s Paprika Museum, it’s now a major local industry. szegedipaprika.hu

5 REGIONAL SPECIALITIES FOR YOU TO SAMPLE GYULA SAUSAGE A gold-medal winner at two World Expos in Brussels, Gyula sausage differs from its rival Békéscsaba counterpart in that its traditional recipe features black pepper. BÉKÉSCSABA SAUSAGE The so-called ‘Csaba sausage’ gives rise to the main culinary festival in this town 100km east of Szeged. Ingredients include spices, paprika, caraway and strictly no black pepper. 126

Makó onions

SZEGED FISH SOUP Tradition dictates that real Szeged fish soup is made in a cauldron, with at least four types of river fish, and slightly spicy. Its recipe was first published in an 1870s’ cookbook.

The Békéscsaba and Gyula sausage is smoked but not the same way. In the case of Gyula, it is done at high humidity, with beech wood, while for Békéscsaba, an open oven, straw or corn is used. Both versions are worth a try.

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5 PLACES TO CATCH THE FIRST RAYS OF SPRING SUNSHINE TÉGLAGYÁR STUDY TRAIL Where a brick factory (‘Téglagyár’) once stood, this 20-hectare park is now a nature trail known for its extensive birdlife. Bring binoculars for the two-hour tour. hodmezovasarhely.hu/kofal

SZANAZUG In warmer weather, locals come to this river confluence to bathe but in winter, visitors can take a ferry between the two beaches, go boating, fishing or canoeing. Szanazug, Dobozi út. szanazug.hu MÁRTÉLY A fishing place in the Middle Ages, Mártély keeps its character to this day, with picture-postcard scenes all year round. A hiking trail allows for pleasant walks. Bertalan Bodnár Nature Centre, Darvassy István utca 19. bodnarbertalan.hodtav.hu

Mártély

ÓPUSZTASZER This large heritage park 30 minutes north of Szeged is where Árpád and his conquering chieftains pitched up more than 1,000 years ago, imaginatively depicted in many ways. Ópusztaszer, Szoborkert 68. opusztaszer.hu

LAKE FEHÉR Part of the Kiskunság National Park, Hungary’s largest saltwater lake is home to 280 types of birds, making it ideal for a spring stroll right on Szeged’s doorstep. Szatymaz, by Road E75. knp.nemzetipark.gov.hu

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PÉCS AND AROUND Pécs, a former European Capital of Culture, displays its early Christian and Ottoman heritage in its pretty, mainly pedestrianised city centre. Cultural treasures abound – it was here that op-art pioneer Vasarely was born and the famed Zsolnay ceramics factory was based. Close to town beckon thermal spas, the Mecsek hills and the Villány wine district.

ARRIVAL By car: From Budapest, take the M6 motorway all the way to Pécs, a journey of 2hrs 30mins. By train/bus: Trains leave Budapest Kelenföld every 2hrs, journey time to Pécs 3hrs 10mins. For Mohács, there’s a direct bus from Budapest Népliget, journey time 3hrs.

ATTRACTIONS There are enough historic and cultural attractions to keep you busy in Pécs for at least a day, possibly two. The wine cellars of Villány, spa at Harkány and hikes around the Mecsek hills make for a great long weekend break.

INFORMATION •• pecs.hu •• zsolnaynegyed.hu •• mohacs.hu

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MECSEK HILLS

LAKE ORFŰ

PASHA GAZI KESIM MOSQUE

PALKONYA

PÉCS CATHEDRAL

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Road Trip

PÉCS ROAD TRIP FOR THE WEEKEND

FRIDAY: Explore Pécs city centre, the Cathedral, Cella Septichora and the Zsolnay Quarter, before a lively meal at Eleven Bor&Tapas. You’re close to bar-lined Király utca, with varied beers to be had at Karavella and Nappali.

SATURDAY: Start the day with a latte at Tettye Coffee, located halfway to Pécs Zoo and the TV Tower. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, the Abaligeti dripstone cave is steeped in local legend. By now, you will have enough of an appetite to tackle the huge portions at the Bohémia Sörkonyha in town.

SUNDAY: Since the Pécs region is blessed with many thermal baths, you can crown your weekend with well deserved spa indulgence. Before going home, relax in the healing waters at Magyarhertelend or Harkány.

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Csontváry Museum

PÉCS AND AROUND

CSONTVÁRY MUSEUM Opened in 1973, this museum includes paintings discovered by Gedeon Gerlóczy in an abandoned studio, including the iconic Lonely Cedar, symbolic of Csontváry’s singular vision. Janus Pannonius utca 11. pecsimuzeumok.hu PASHA GAZI KESIM MOSQUE This historic landmark stands on the city’s main square, its Ottoman architecture intact, its prayer niches facing Mecca. Today it operates as a Catholic church. Széchenyi tér KODÁLY CENTRE This multi-functional concert hall and cultural centre opened in 2010, also providing a home to the Pannon Philharmonic who benefit from the prime acoustics here. Vilmos út 37. kodalykozpont.

7 GREAT CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS IN PÉCS PÉCS CATHEDRAL Built on the site of a church from the early Christian era, the Cathedral of Sts Peter and Paul owes its appearance to a late 19th-century remake based on medieval plans. Szent István tér 23. pecsiegyhazmegye.hu

Zsolnay Quarter

VASARELY MUSEUM This pioneer of Op-Art was born in Pécs and though he found fame in France, he donated several hundred graphics, silkscreens, sculptures and tapestries to his home town. Káptalan utca 3. pecsimuzeumok.hu

ZSOLNAY QUARTER The site of the former Zsolnay Porcelain Manufactory is located in its own separate cultural zone. Worth the trek for the Gyugyi Collection of 700 unique Zsolnay ceramics. Felsővámház utca 52. zsolnaynegyed.hu EARLY CHRISTIAN GRAVES This UNESCO World Heritage site in the centre of Pécs dates back 1,700 years, with early Christian graves and paintings on view at the Cella Septichora Visitor Centre. Apáca utca. septichora.hu 136

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THE MYSTIC BULL OF PÉCS Think of Pécs and you think of Zsolnay, the worldfamous manufacturers of tiles and porcelain, creators of unique eosin glazing, whose bull’s head motif has become synonymous with the city itself. The animal head first appeared in the work of goldsmiths in Nagyszentmiklós, which inspired the designers at Zsolnay. In 1908, the son of the famed Vilmos Zsolnay, Miklós, offered a ceremonial fountain as gift to the city, which usually decorated them with characteristic gargoyles. Although completed in 1911, the fountain was not put in place for another two decades. Hidden away during World War I, it was only discovered in 1923, in a school cellar. Then ensued an eight-year debate about where to put the thing. Eventually it was installed on focal Széchenyi tér in 1930, when the county council also adopted it a decorative emblem.

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Jókai cukrászda

PÉCS AND AROUND

CZUKOR BORSÓ Pies, pastries and cakes are the stock in trade here, goods baked according to traditional recipes then given a twist – the chocolate-beetroot cake, for example. Nagyszkókói út 2 JÓKAI CUKRÁSZDA This flagship of French confectionery proves that quality wins out time after time. In contemporary surroundings, sample the stand-out salted-caramel ice cream. Jókai tér 6. facebook.com/jokaicuki REGGELI This delightful child-friendly spot on the city’s main bar strip is a new venture from the team behind Nappali. Healthy, filling breakfasts offered from early doors. Király utca 23-25. facebook.com/reggeli.bar BOHÉMIA SÖRKONYHA Come to the Bohemian Beer Kitchen with an appetite – the burgers could sink a battleship, the pigs’ trotters in honey, too. Lobkowicz and Černá Hora Velen ales accompany. Nagy Flórián utca 11. bohemiasorkonyha.hu

ELEVEN BOR&TAPAS The extremely popular Eleven lends an Iberian touch to the city’s culinary offerings, with chorizo, serrano ham and manchego cheese complemented by European wines. Jókai tér 11. facebook.com/ elevenborestapas

Most of the restaurants in the city centre round off your meal by offering an alcoholic drink, so it’s best to leave the car at home as everything here is close at hand.

Reggeli

7 PLACES TO SAMPLE SPECIAL FLAVOURS

BLÖFF BISZTRÓ Fish is the speciality here, bream, sea bass and trout, served whole with garlic and parsley dressing. For starters, try the mussels in wine, or see the specials chalked up. Jókai tér 5 TEX-MEX Fajitas, tacos and burritos fill the menu of the aptly named Tex-Mex, where it’s best to book a table at weekends. Affordable Latin cocktails also feature. Evenings only. Teréz utca 10. tex-mex.hu 140

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LYR Speciality Coffee and Food

PÉCS AND AROUND

LYR Speciality Coffee and Food

PÉCS AND AROUND

LYR SPECIALITY COFFEE AND FOOD The only vegan café and restaurant in Pécs is the environmentally conscious and homely LYR, open from mid-morning to early evening and popular with young families. Ferencesek utcája 4. facebook.com/lyrcoffeeandfood

5 CAFÉS FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY TO ENJOY TETTYE COFFEE After a family outing to Tettye, its parkland, cave and stream, pop in here for hot chocolate, fine coffee, cake and mulled wine, ideally partaken at a sunny terrace table. Tettye utca 46. facebook.com/tettyecoffee

Püspöki Magtár Kávézó

SZABADKIKÖTŐ While relaxing in this boat-themed space at the end of focal Király utca, the kids can burn off extra energy thanks to the indoor and outdoor climbing installations. Király utca 64. facebook.com/szabadkikotopecs

PÜSPÖKI MAGTÁR KÁVÉZÓ At the castle wall, this former granary store lives on as the ’Bishop’s Granary Café’, with quality coffee, fresh pastries and a play area with games for the kids. Szent István tér 6 KISHÁZ KÁVÉZÓ Plenty of games await the little ones at the café in the courtyard of the Civic Communities House, where families gather for coffee and various daytime delicacies. Szent István tér 17. facebook.com/kishazkavezo 142

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BAZÁR

PÉCS AND AROUND

WUNDERBAR PÉCS Opened in the autumn of 2018, WunderBar is the kind of place where you can find craft and continental beers, Maker’s Mark whiskey and an in-the-know Pécs crowd. Király utca 20. facebook.com/WunderBarPecs 19 BAR & SHOP Here you can sample the most extensive selection of spirits in Pécs on busy Király utca. Look out for special nights such as the popular recent showcase of single malts. Király utca 19. facebook.com/19barandshop BLÖFF CAFFÉ Facing the theatre, Blöff has been a mainstay for many years, a quiet spot by day, lively by night when TV football is the focus. Open until 1am, midnight on Sundays. Színház tér 2 MADE IN PÉCS CAFÉ Essential to any night out, MiP buzzes with friendly chatter, fuelled by craft beer and backdropped by framed photos of the city. Acoustic acts and DJs set up in the corner. Kazinczy utca 1. facebook.com/madeinpecscafe Nappali

7 LIVELIEST NIGHTSPOTS IN PÉCS NAPPALI Named after the living room it resembles, though it’s been expanded since opening, Nappali hosts live acts, record fairs, exhibitions, even slam-poetry nights on occasion. Király utca 23-25. facebook.com/nappali.bar MŰVÉSZ PRESSZÓ On the bar strip of Király utca, this retro-themed drinkery echoes the Socialist era with its furniture and its photos, though its Hungarian craft beers are right on-trend. Kolozsvár utca 24. facebook.com/muveszpresszo BAZÁR Brother of the Művész Presszó, BAZÁR offers 14 Hungarian craft brews on tap, along with snacks ’cooked with and for beer’. A covered outdoor space stays open in winter. Széchenyi tér 17. facebook.com/bazarpecs 144

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INTERVIEW

Dávildkó

Many top Hungarian bands started out in Pécs – Kispál és a Borz, 30Y and Halott Pénz, to name but three. Dáv id Marsalkó delivered newspapers and sto cked shelves before setting up rap act Ha lott Pénz (’Dead Money’). He knows Péc s like the back of his hand. We asked the frontman about his home town.

Marsa

WLH: What was it like when

you were first starting out?

DM: There are so many stories about the songs or the formation of the band. I’d rath er go with the one about Mark playing one of my favo urite Nirvana tunes in a bar – that’s when I decided that he should become the singer of Halott Pénz. WLH: As an adult, do you see Pécs in the same way as when you were a kid?

Photo: Vivien Arató

DM: Since I was born in Pécs and I grew up there, I have a very personal relationship with the city. First love, first shows, friendships, scho ol, everything took place here. As an adult, I would real ly like it if the rest of Hungary discovered just how beautiful this region is.

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FOREST TRAIL TO ABALIGET Yellow signs mark the way along the beautiful forest trail from Tettye to the dripstone cave at Abaliget. After reaching Lapis and Vágotpuszta, head from Orfű to Abaliget. TREASURES OF JAKAB HILL Rare archaeological finds from the Roman era were unearthed at Kővágószőlős. From here, the treasure trail leads to the Zsuzsa lookout point, and its breathtaking panorama.

5 GREAT HIKING TRAILS AROUND PÉCS PILGRIMAGE TO THE MECSEK SPRINGS From the bus turnaround at Gyükés, a 20-kilometre hike takes in Büdös springs, the trail marked by yellow crosses leading to Magyarhertelend Thermal Baths. PÁL ROCKENBAUER BLUE TOUR One of the lesser-known hiking trails, the Blue Tour passes picturesque attractions such as the Abaligeti Dripstone Cave, Dombay Lake and the gorges of Mecsek. MELEGMÁNY VALLEY One of the most beautiful gorges in the Mecsek hills is Melegmány, where old oaks and rare plants can be found. The steep path from Dömörkapu runs by Szent Bertalan Chapel. 148

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Made in Pécs

PÉCS AND AROUND

MOHÁCS BUSÓJÁRÁS This pagan tradition in Mohács near Pécs is a real tourist attraction today. At the height of the carnival, some 1,200 masked beasts do their best to see off winter. Feb 28-Mar 5. mohacsibusojaras.hu PALKONYA EASTER In this charming wine village, there’s always a surprise in store. For Easter, rural restaurants prepare something special, the local wines and desserts always a plus. Apr 26-28. palkonya.hu

5 GREAT EVENTS AROUND PÉCS FOR WINTER AND SPRING ADVENT FAIR Christmas tunes, warming artisanal wines and aromatic scents spread across the heart of Pécs for Advent. Façades around focal Széchenyi tér shine with pretty lights. Dec 2-23. pecs.hu

Mohács Busójárás

PÉCSI SZELET On May Day, sample the culinary offerings of local wineries, producers and restaurants – this festival presents the taste of Baranya, from street food and fine dining. May 1. facebook.com/pecsiszelet

Whichever time of year you visit Baranya County, bring your bathing costume or hiking gear with you. The hilly landscape and thermal waters might inspire a sudden change of plans.

MADE IN PÉCS For the fourth time, the annual Made in Pécs festival showcases local bands, with 100 acts playing in six clubs from morning to midnight, from beginners to big names. Jan 4-5. madeinpecsfesztival.hu 150

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Lombkorona walk and nature trail

PÉCS AND AROUND

Bükkösdi Ökopark

PÉCS AND AROUND

ORFŰ MILL MUSEUM The work of generations of millers is illustrated at this pretty setting, from grinding rocks in ancient times and horsedrawn mills to the contemporary technology of today. Orfű, Füzes Antal sétány 3. malommuzeum.hu

5 UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS AROUND PÉCS

SIKLÓS BATHS Three storeys, five saunas, 12 pools and a four-star hotel spread over this extensive spa complex, the best in Baranya. Treatments include massages with chocolate or honey. Siklós, Baross Gábor utca 8.

ABALIGETI DRIPSTONE CAVE This creek cave nearly 500 metres long is one of the most exciting spectacles in the region. Legend has it locals used the cave and its water supply to hide from the Turks. Abaliget. abaligetibarlang.hu LOMBKORONA WALK AND NATURE TRAIL The first nature walk in southern Transdanubia, nestled amid high trees, snakes through dense woodland. On the way, children can see stork nests and bat trails. Set-off point Hetvehely. lombkoronasetany.hu BÜKKÖSDI ÖKOPARK Around this wildlife park, you can stroke deer and see wild boars up close. Rustic accommodation includes a cluster of yurts, while on-site eateries offer smoked mangalica. Bükkösd. okobukkosd.hu 152

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Palkonyha (Photo: Színdbád, az utazó)

PÉCS AND AROUND

PALKONYHA This village house is both a restaurant and a culinary workshop, with no waiter or menu, but traditional breakfasts, a daytime cauldron and dinner baked in the oven. Palkonya, Fő utca 76. palkonyha.hu K ABA FARM A Guinean-Hungarian and Swiss couple run this goat farm in Almáskeresztúrás west of Pécs, offering platters of cheese, smoked meats and seasonal salad produced on-site. Almáskeresztúr, Fő utca 28. kabafarm-kecskesajt.hu CZUKOR BORSÓ The big sister of the famed confectionery in Pécs, near Máriagyűdi Basilica, offers award-winning macarons among the children’s sweet treats, in a rural atmosphere. Siklós, Arany János utca 29. facebook.com/siklosmariagyud

ALMALOMB Its cuisine based on raw ingredients sourced from local producers, ’Hedge Apple’ provides a special experience at a converted 19th-century watermill in Hosszúhetény. Hosszúhetény, Ormándi utca 19. almalomb.hu MANDULA ÉTTEREM ÉS BOR BÁR For fine dining, head to this stellar restaurant run by renowned producer Attila Gere deep in wine country. Hungarian and Swabian cuisine is served in elegant surroundings. Villány, Diófás tér 4-12. etterem.gere.hu

Almalomb (Photo: Gastro Turismo)

7 PLACES FOR A GASTRONOMIC TOUR NEAR PÉCS

K ARL Ákos Karl’s microbrewery doubles up as a bistro, open weekends or by reservation. Certain beers are recommended for each dish, burgers with goat’s meat or veal sausages. Mecseknádasd, Nap utca 1. karlbeer.com

MEDITERRÁN On the main square in lakeside Orfű, look out for the chef’s weekly offers, along with Italian classics. Pizzas are created from Italian flour and cooked in a special oven. Orfű, Széchenyi tér 4. facebook.com/mediterran.orfu 154

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This publication is the intellectual property of We Love Publishing Kft. Reproduction in full or in part is strictly prohibited. Our team has paid particular attention to the accuracy of all the information within but we accept no responsibility or liability for any changes which may have occurred. info@welovehungary.hu Budapest, 2018

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