WENATCHEE u LEAVENWORTH u CHELAN u AND ALL OF NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON
July-August 2021
The
Outdoor Issue
EDITOR’S LETTER
Find your joy
in the great outdoors M
any changes are taking place in our valley as I write this in early June. People are heading back to the office, mostly traditional high school graduations are taking place, and more of us are eating at restaurants and visiting wine tasting rooms, among other things. Yet, as we move closer to post-pandemic life, some are struggling to figure out how much to dive into something that resembles everyday living prior to COVID. Do I wear my mask at the AppleSox game? How about when I’m grocery shopping? Should my younger daughter — who has yet to get her second vaccine shot — go to a birthday party? The past year-plus has been challenging for many — the isolation, getting used to doing our jobs virtually and, for some of us, spending more time with our kids than we ever could have imagined. A part of me wishes I had kept a tally of the number of times my teenage daughter has rolled her eyes at me during these past 15 months. Thankfully, a lot of positive constants have also remained in our lives, including the many outdoor recreation opportunities we’re blessed to have here in North Central Washington. We’ve written about some of those outdoor activities in this issue, including a piece by Lester Black about the growing popularity of e-bikes. Before I read Lester’s story, I viewed electric bikes as strictly for the lazy set. Now, I better understand that e-bikes allow the active to continue doing what they’ve always done as they advance in years. Now on the other side of 50, I’m finding that some things aren’t as easy as they used to be so maybe an e-bike is in my future. Jaana Hatton also chipped in a piece about why hiking the area hills and mountains brings so much joy. This quote from Diane, one of the hikers featured in the story, sums it up well: “When I’m hiking, everything is ‘of the moment.’ It calms the brain.” If you’re one of those families that has a hard time making decisions — my own family sometimes fits that description — then be sure to read Erin Rebar’s story about summer adventures. She offers some suggestions for a checklist of activities to pull off in the next few months — or into the fall if your personal list gets long. And finally, I’m excited to feature an excerpt of Northwest writer Joshua M. Powell’s cool book about hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. The book — The Pacific Crest Trail: A Visual Compendium (Sasquatch Books, $21) — published earlier this year and covers a lot of ground, as you’d expect. Powell writes that his favorite stretch of the 2,653-mile trail was from Stevens Pass to the Stehekin area. That’s the section of the book that we’re featuring — with the permission of the publisher — in this issue.
Marco Martinez, editor foothills@wenatcheeworld.com 2
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Contents
32 Peace in the hills Hikers find their groove at higher elevation
8 Native lore
The tale of the Peshastin Pinnacles
12 B aroque jams
Lake Chelan Bach Fest draws crowds
16 Let there be light
Mazama remodel has more, bigger windows
38 Electric + bike = Smiles
E-bikes are the growing cycling trend
44 PCT thru-hiker
Author/graphic artist chronicles journey
24 S ummer checklist orth Central Washington N adventures on tap
51 Mellisoni Vineyards
Winery wows on Lake Chelan’s south shore
62 Wine and a little cider Barb Robertson reviews 4 bottles 6
Foothills
July / August 2021
oothills A LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE ABOUT NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON
Publisher Sean Flaherty (509) 664-7136 flaherty@wenatcheeworld.com
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Creative Director Nancy Phillips phillips@wenatcheeworld.com Editor Marco Martinez (509) 664-7149 martinez@wenatcheeworld.com Managing Editor Russ Hemphill (509) 665-1161 hemphill@wenatcheeworld.com
Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards
Advertising Sales Manager AnnMarie Morris (509) 661-6377 annmarie@wenatcheeworld.com
WASHINGTON MEDIA LLC Foothills Magazine is published monthly by Washington Media LLC, 14 N. Mission St., Wenatchee, WA 98801 $4.99 Retail Price Subscriptions: $20.99 annually Send check or money order to: Foothills, Subscriptions 14 N. Mission St., Wenatchee, WA 98801 or subscribe online at www.wenatcheeworld/ncwfoothills/subscribe Copyright 2021 with all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without written permission.
COVER PHOTO: Lester Black photo
Thom Vetter leads a group of riders down a Wenatchee trail on Class I mountain bikes, which have engines that turn on only while the rider is pedaling.
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Peshastin Pinnacles
Wikimedia Commons/Thayne Tuason photo
The native legend behind the rock formations known today as Peshastin Pinnacles State Park goes back thousands of years.
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LANDMARK STORY BY CHRIS RADER
World file photo/Mike Bonnicksen
People hike up switchbacks on a trail at Peshastin Pinnacles State Park as part of a guided nature hike organized by the city of Wenatchee’s Parks and Recreation Department.
W
Editor’s note: A version of this story first published in The Confluence, a historical quarterly magazine produced by the Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center. To learn more, visit wenatcheevalleymuseum.org.
hen the three evil Witch Sisters dammed the river and prevented the Salmon from swimming upstream to feed the People, Coyote was not happy. The old trickster distracted the Sisters and destroyed the dam so the Salmon could come through. Glad to be free, the Salmon rose up and sang a joyful song — and there they are, forever sculpted in sandstone, at the rock formation we now call the Peshastin Pinnacles. For thousands of years, children in P’squosa-Wenatchi villages along the Wenatchee River were told the story of Coyote Bringing the Salmon and shown the Salmon singing in the left (western) foreground of the Pinnacles. No doubt P’squosa children enjoyed climbing around on the rocks as much as modern-day children do. Then Caucasian settlers came in
and claimed the land for homes and orchards. The Peshastin Pinnacles, just east of Dryden on Highway 2, are uniquely eroded sandstone spires and slabs that enticed 20th-century adult rock climbers. The owners of the spires, just 34 acres within a 265-acre orchard, didn’t mind the visitation until their insurance company convinced them to close public access because of liability risks. They put the Pinnacles up for sale in 1986. Enter the newly formed ChelanDouglas Land Trust (CDLT)! This small group of outdoor enthusiasts seeks to preserve land from development by acquiring “conservation easements” from property owners, ensuring that the land is left in its natural state. Dr. Mark Shipman was president of the fledgling organization. July / August 2021
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World file photo/Don Seabrook
The Trust for Public Lands bought the Peshastin Pinnacles in 1990, ensuring its natural state. The TPL later sold the property to Washington state. The site re-opened to public use in 1991 after volunteers improved trails at the site.
World file photo/Mike Bonnicksen
A climber ascends one of the formations at Peshastin Pinnacles State Park. 10
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“The Land Trust had four potential projects in 1986,” Shipman said. “One was to get someone to buy the Pinnacles and keep them available for the public to enjoy.” Shipman and fellow CDLT board member Dr. Don Fager approached Washington State Parks and the Seattle Mountaineers about purchasing the rock-climbing mecca; both declined. After much work, they convinced the national land conservancy The Trust for Public Lands (TPL) to purchase the Peshastin Pinnacles in 1990, with the help of a $200,000 interest-free loan from Recreational Equipment Inc. (REI) and the intent to then sell the property to Washington state. That summer and fall, volunteers from CDLT and other groups worked to improve trails at the site — and in April 1991 the Pinnacles opened again to public use. TPL sold the site to the state Parks and Recreation Commission, and it is now a day-use state park with 1.5 miles of hiking trails, challenging climbs, picnic tables and spectacular valley views. F Chris Rader edits the Wenatchee Valley Museum’s quarterly historical magazine, The Confluence.
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STORY BY KAREN LARSEN
Provided photo
The Bach Fest String Quartet performs at Rio Vista Winery.
Lake Chelan Bach Fest Live season planned for its 40th year 12
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I
n 1981, Lake Chelan United Methodist Church had a new organ and church members were looking for a way to celebrate. They got together and produced a cantata featuring the music of Johann Sebastian Bach. The community was thrilled, and a group of committed individuals made plans to turn that summer performance of classical music into an annual display for the Chelan community and beyond. As the Lake Chelan Bach Fest grew, it began to attract highly acclaimed mu-
sicians from further afield and gained national acclaim. It also expanded beyond Bach to other classical composers and to other genres of music, including jazz and pop. The festival orchestra, the festival chorus and the string quartet developed into pillars of the festival. The festival is still run by volunteers and supported by local fundraising efforts. The accomplishments of the past four decades merited a grand celebration, and before 2020 the Lake Chelan
Rich Uhlhorn photo
A musician plays during a Lake Chelan Bach Fest show. July / August 2021
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Provided photo
The 2018 Pops in the Park concert drew a large crowd to the Chelan Riverwalk Park Pavilion.
Rich Uhlhorn photo
A Bach Fest musician explains to a youngster how the bow is tightened. Bach Fest board had its creative juices flowing with this in mind. “We had great plans for what we were going to do,” said past board president Kerry Travers. For a festival that typically spans 14
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10 days and includes 22 events with nationally acclaimed musicians, the anniversary bash would certainly need to be big. Then came the pandemic. The group showed its flexibility and
resilience by hosting a series of 12 virtual concerts in lieu of the 2020 festival. This year, the board has planned a scaled-down season — July 10-17 — that will include 11 live outdoor performances and four virtual performances. The outdoor performances will be held at Riverwalk Park and at local wineries. They will feature a smaller group of musicians than the 100 that normally gather in Chelan for the festival. The festival string quartet will perform evening concerts at area wineries. Participating wineries include Tunnel Hill, Tsillan Cellars, Hard Row to Hoe and Rio Vista. There will be a live noon concert series Tuesday through Friday and a grand finale concert, called Pops in the Park, on July 17. The duo Tango Cowboys will perform July 16 in the park. Virtual concerts will include a musical storytelling of Hansel and Gretel, a vocal soloist recital, a young musicians’ recital and a collage concert featuring the principal players of the Bach Fest orchestra. For more information about Bach Fest and the concert schedule, see the website at bachfest.org. F
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Outward looking It’s all about the views at Mazama remodel
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INSIDE HOME STORY BY NATALIE JOHNSON PHOTOS BY SOZINHO IMAGERY
Editor’s note: A version of this story first published in 2021 Methow Home produced by Methow Valley News.
P
ick a window, any window, at Joan Wellman and Tom Robinson’s Mazama home, and you’ll find a stunning view. That was their plan when they worked with architects Ray and Mary Johnston to remodel the mid-1990s home, focusing on letting in abundant natural light and showing off views in every direction. “We do a lot of fairly compact
house design, and what we’ve learned to do —and really like — is to include the outside as part of the experience of the interior of the site,” Ray Johnston said. “Joan and Tom’s house when I first saw it was the total opposite of that. It was designed during an energy crisis and it really turned its back on its surroundings. Small windows. Small panes in small windows.” Johnston said his goal was to “peel open” the living spaces of the house, bringing it and its surroundings together.
The former owners were art collectors who wanted to maximize the home’s wall space. “ ... So they had plenty of space to hang art. … When we came to see the house, we loved the layout and we loved the site, but they hadn’t really optimized the views,” Wellman said. Now, the home is all about its 360-degree views. Despite not being on high ground, the roughly 2,500 square-foot home is anything but in shadow, with sunlight and vistas in every direction. The master bedroom opens on Lucky Jim Bluff.
Rather than buy new, Joan Wellman and Tom Robinson decided to buy a mid-1990s home and remodel it to their liking, with the help of architects Ray and Mary Johnston. July / August 2021
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The 2,500-square-foot home near Mazama underwent an extensive remodel to fit the wants of new owners Joan Wellman and Tom Robinson. Wellman and Robinson worked with the Johnstons to reimagine the house, while keeping a very similar floor plan. They also credited contractor Rick Mills for his work on the house.
Love, but not at first sight
Owners Wellman and Robinson lived in Seattle before deciding on the Methow Valley as the place they want to retire. 18
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Wellman and Robinson knew what they were looking for when they started house hunting. “And this house wasn’t it,” Wellman said. “When we first looked at it, I just said ‘no.’” While their first impression of the house wasn’t great, the spacious house on 30 acres started to grow on them. “And then we came back and looked at it again and I said, ‘maybe,’ ” she said. The site, adjacent to Lucky Jim Bluff on the valley floor, and the all-day natural lighting eventually won them over, along with helpful ideas from Johnston Architects. “That started getting us more excited. And we’re really delighted with the
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Top: The remodeled home features a fireplace where a wall once stood to separate the dining area from the living area. Left: The kitchen offers counter space in abundance. 20
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outcome. We couldn’t be any happier,” Wellman said. The open-plan living room and kitchen was once split in two by a solid white wall, with a door to one side. Now, the kitchen/dining/living area is open, bright and inviting, separated only by a fireplace. Once solid walls now house large windows that let in light all day long — even in the dead of winter. In the summer, electronic blinds help keep the space comfortable. “The house stays amazingly cool — we hardly used our air conditioning at all,” Wellman said. The house includes a spa-like master bath, a sauna, walk-in master closet, an office known these days as the “Zoom room,” along with two upstairs guest rooms. The house has the feel of a cabin, with natural wood finishes and some industrial metal elements, including the stair rails to upstairs rooms. Most of the materials were sourced locally, Robinson said. “It’s really locally resourced,” he said. “All the blinds are from Winthrop, appliances are from Omak or Wenatchee. We didn’t make a Seattle
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The home’s master bathroom is spa-like.
The comfortable patio includes an eating area and a firepit surrounded partially by Adirondack chairs. house. This is an Eastern Washington house.”
The trail to Mazama Wellman and Robinson lived in the 22
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Seattle area before their retirements, and vacationed at a Methow cabin since 2007. Now they have a small condo in the Seattle area but spend most of their time in the valley. “It used to be that our vacation
home was here, and now it’s the opposite,” Wellman said. Robinson retired first and began a new career as a rolfer — similar to a massage therapist. When Wellman retired in 2017, the couple started spending all of their time at their Methow cabin. “We came up here and spent all our time in our cabin, and after about a year of that we went, ‘Uh, this isn’t working … this is not enough space,’ ” Wellman said. “We had no garage or anything,” Robinson added. They decided early to buy an existing home and remodel rather than build a new house. The timeline was considerably shorter, they noted, with new construction in the Methow projected to take three years. They bought the home in December 2018 and moved in full time in February 2020. Johnston noted remodels generally cost less than construction of a new house. “We really retained most of the rooms; we just altered their walls, so we weren’t really changing the shape of the house or moving substantial
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The Methow Valley home offers views in every direction. walls around,” he said. “When you start doing that, the costs (versus new construction) start to equal.” Johnston said his business in the past has only received a request to do a remodel every few years. In the past year, they’ve had three new requests. However, that’s how their business was sustained when it was formed 30 years ago. “In the valley, where a lot of our residential work is, there just aren’t that many remodels going on,” Johnston said. “Most of our work for the first year was remodeling little bungalows in our neighborhood. Our roots are in that kind of transformational effort that a remodel is; we don’t do as many now but we always have a few.” Thirty years after starting their business and being introduced to the Methow Valley, Ray and Mary Johnston also moved from Seattle to the Methow full time this year. “About 30 years ago we were introduced to the Methow Valley, and we loved it instantly, and started going there then and it was the beginning of a long love affair we’ve had with the place,” Johnston said. F
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Summer adventure checklist Must-do activities to make memories 24
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OUTDOORS
STORY BY ERIN REBAR
Wenatchee World file photo/Mike Bonnicksen
The beach area at Lake Wenatchee State Park is a fun play spot for young families. Here, Mason Dahlburg, 3, of Seattle plays with his grandmother Robynn Clark.
A Wenatchee World file photo/Mike Bonnicksen
Rafters make their way through whitewater on the Wenatchee River just upstream from Cashmere.
dventuring in the outdoors is a highlight of the summer months. The fresh air, the sunshine on your face, the sound of birds during the day and a stretch of star-filled sky at night — these are the things that make summer special. Not quite sure how to make the most of your time under the sun? Consider writing a summer adventure list. You can even make a game of writing it out and checking the items off. Not sure where to start? Here are a few must-do activities to add to your list this summer.
Whitewater rafting Nothing quite says adventure like hitting the rapids on the Wenatchee River. In fact, the stretch of churning water between Wenatchee and Leavenworth is one of the most popular whitewater destinations in the state. The Wenatchee River is considered a Class III run. This means rapids are high and irregular — up to 5 feet — with narrow passages and other obstacles that require precise maneuvering. Experienced rafters can take to
the river on their own, but don’t count yourself out if you’ve never set foot in a raft. There are plenty of rafting companies in the area. Choose a sunny day and expect to get wet — it will be one wild ride.
Spend a day at the beach It isn’t summer without a trip to the beach. Fortunately, here in North Central Washington, there are plenty close by. If you feel up to the drive, Ocean Shores beach is a fourand-a-half-hour trip from Wenatchee — perfect for a weekend adventure. Ocean Shores is a charming beach town with a long stretch of white sand facing the open ocean. Rather stick closer to home? The beach at Lake Wenatchee State Park is fun for young families. Or you can head up to Lake Chelan for the day instead. The drive to Chelan is just under an hour from Wenatchee — an easy day trip. You’ll still be able to participate in all of your classic beach activities: sunbathing, swimming, sand castle building and strolling down the boardwalk. Just don’t forget to pack the sunscreen. July / August 2021
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Wenatchee World file photo/Don Seabrook
A Kirkland family wanders through a Stutzman Ranch peach orchard near Wenatchee, picking from trees.
Visit a fruit farm Why buy fruit at the grocery store when you can pick it yourself. The Wenatchee Valley is known for its abundant fruit harvest. In the summer, you can expect to find berries like strawberries and blueberries, as well as apricots, cherries and peaches. Visiting a U-pick farm is a great family activity, and a fun way to spend an afternoon. There is something so satisfying about filling a basket with fruits and berries that you harvested with your own hands. Pixabay photo
U-pick fruit farms are a great way to get the ripest fruit this summer. 26
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Have a picnic Packing a picnic is an absolute must for a sunny summer day. Your picnic spot doesn’t have to be anything special — even a public park or your own backyard will work. If you are looking for something particularly magical, however, pack up your basket and head to Ohme Gardens. Surrounded by wildflowers, gurgling streams and rugged rock features, Ohme Gardens is the perfect retreat. Spread your picnic blanket out on one of the many green lawns, or find a picnic table or stone-hewn bench instead.
Unsplash/Kate Hliznitsova
A backyard picnic qualifies as a summer adventure because it’s all about making memories.
July / August 2021
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Wenatchee World file photo/Mike Bonnicksen
Rob Wharton, left, and his family chat at a site at the Crescent Bar Campground.
Go camping
Wenatchee World file photo/Mike Bonnicksen
Kids swing on a hammock while camping with their families at Eightmile Campground along Icicle Creek Road near Leavenworth. 28
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Whether you prefer an RV or a tent — or even sleeping directly under the stars — there’s no doubt about it: camping is the ultimate item for any summer adventure checklist. There are plenty of easy to reach, well-groomed campsites in the area. If you are up for more of a challenge, consider going off the grid and finding a campsite that requires you to pack in. Or, take it a step further and do some dispersed camping — the fancy term for roughing it outside of a developed campsite. Dispersed camping is legal on BLM land and some national forest land — just make sure you check the laws before you go.
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Staying up late to do some stargazing is worth losing a few winks.
Stargazing Top off a day full of adventures by staying up late to admire the night sky. Try to find an area far away from the city lights as the light pollution will significantly impact how much you are able to see. The Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest is known for having some of the darkest skies in the state. Lake Wenatchee, in particular, is a stunning
location for stargazing. Be sure to bring along a flashlight with a red setting to help preserve your night vision. Don’t have one? Use a rubber band to attach some red cellophane to the end of a flashlight you already own. For an extra dose of fun, bring along a star chart (or use an app) to help you identify constellations, stars and planets. A strong pair of binoculars will help you catch a glimpse of planets, galaxies and nebulas that you might otherwise miss with your naked eye. F
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OUTDOORS
STORY BY JAANA HATTON PHOTOS BY LUKE HOLLISTER
Dark clouds rolling into the area by No. 2 Canyon Road is among the views from Wenatchee’s foothills.
Happy in the hills
Why do we climb to the higher elevations? 32
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Sarah Shaffer walks toward the Jacobson Preserve trailhead in late May.
M
ost any hike in the Wenatchee area involves climbing a hill. Some are small, others quite tall, but no trail in our area lacks portions of higher ground. We begin to hunger for climbs, the hilltops that require sweat and blisters. Why? Explanations may be more obvious than you’d think. Spending time outdoors can increase creative problem-solving skills by up to 50%. And who doesn’t have a problem or two to sort out? As we gain elevation, it’s not only physical, but mental, as well; looking at things from a higher point of view may help us to find a new perspective. There is the matter of calories burnt, of course. A good hike burns 500 calories per hour. Add to that an incline of 5% to 10% and the calorie burn is 30% to 40% higher. Toss in a
Kmbris Bond hikes up stairs along the Clara and Marion lakes trail.
Evening sunlight reflects off of trees bordering Lake Clara. The roughly three-mile roundtrip Clara and Marion lakes trail takes hikers through a forested mountainside up to an open hilly area by the lakeside. 34
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Luke Evans, left, looks at a wildflower while Kmbris Bond pulls her phone out to take a photo along the Clara and Marion lakes trail in late May. backpack and you will burn even more and also strengthen your back muscles. The physical and mental positives in climbing hills are equal. According to the International Journal of Sports Medicine, long-distance hiking can improve our ability to fight physical and mental disease. Sarah Shaffer, executive director of Wenatchee Outdoors, has made outdoor pursuits — climbs and hikes and all the rest — a family affair. “Our daughter, Dahlia, had her first climb when she was a year and a half,” Sarah said. “When she was 5, she managed to climb a three-pitch rock (a pitch is the length of the rope) at the Nevada Red Rocks. That was inspiring.” Dahlia is now 8 and continues to share outdoor activities with her parents, including one of the family’s favorite climbs — Mission Peak. The popular hike features a 2,100-foot elevation gain from the Mission Ridge parking lot. “You feel like you’re on top of the world,” Sarah said. Being in the outdoors can leader to a greater appreciation for things bigger
than you, according to Sarah. “It’s my church,” she said. “It’s uplifting and relaxing to go on hikes, but I also like to feel exhausted afterwards. It’s a good tired; the endorphins kick in.” She considers the one-day climb to Prusik Peak in the Enchantments one of her most difficult achievements and among the outdoor endeavors she’s most proud to have successfully completed. “It was 22 hours out and back — 18 miles and a five-pitch climb. The last hour was the hardest, when I could see Leavenworth but knew there was still ways to go,” Sarah said. Kmbris Bond, a Wenatchee artist, and Luke Evans, self-employed, often hike together. They have known each other since high school. Last summer, their big accomplishment was hiking a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail, and they plan to do more this year. “The sheer beauty of nature brings me to tears,” Kmbris said. “It makes me feel grateful and gives me perspective.” “Nature is a spiritual experience for me. There is simplicity in the out-
Bond pulls out a pen and sketch pad, something she always carries on her hiking trips. July / August 2021
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Kmbris Bond, left, and Luke Evans head down from the Clara and Marion lakes trail in late May. The two hiking friends met in high school.
Sarah Shaffer stops for a closer look at the native plants growing along the Jacobson Preserve trail area in late May. 36
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Wildflowers bloom along the Jacobson Preserve area in late May.
doors: food, shelter, safety.” Luke said. “Hiking also presents the challenge to get to the end safely.” “Luke and I did a beautiful hike between Chatter Creek Trail and Stevens Pass. On one of the days, the vistas were clear and offered views of Mount Rainier,” Kmbris said. “The next day, we were walking in fog that allowed us only to see a few feet ahead of us. The pebbles and wildflowers lining the path caught our attention, rather than the mountains far away. Finding the joy and beauty in each step is a powerful lesson for every day.” While some enjoy group hikes, there are others who embrace the peace and solitude of hilltops. Count Diane McKenzie, 77, among the latter. “I remember a climb up to the top of Twin Peaks with the Chelan-Douglas Land Trust in March 2014, when I was still new to the area,” she said. “The feeling up there was overwhelming; I lost my heart to Wenatchee.” Diane said she finds “emotional renewal” up on the region’s peaks. “I feel a part of everything around me,” she said. “When I’m hiking, everything is ‘of the moment.’ It calms the brain.” F
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OUTDOORS
STORY AND PHOTOS BY LESTER BLACK
The motor on Class 1 electric bikes only turns on while the cyclist is pedaling and stops once the bicycle has reached 20 mph.
A
t first, Thom Vetter didn’t like the idea of an electric mountain bike. The 70-year-old has been riding mountain bikes since “day one of mountain biking in the Wenatchee Valley,” and he didn’t see why — even as he approached his eighth decade in life — he would need an electric battery’s help to do what he loved. But then one riding friend got an electric bike, then another, until finally he realized he might not have a choice. “I fought it. I really didn’t want to go there. I wanted to stay traditional, but I found out I couldn’t keep up anymore,” Vetter said. “For me, it was a matter of finally having to let my pride down.”
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Electric mountain bikes have become increasingly common on Wenatchee’s mountain bike trails, allowing riders to ride further and more often with the help of an electric motor.
‘More miles and more smiles’ Why some Wenatchee cyclists are switching to e-bikes July / August 2021
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Clockwise from top left: From left, Bryan Darnell, Heather Mauseth and Thom Vetter relax after riding their electric mountain bikes. Darnell said he bought an electric bike so he could keep up with his sons, ages 14 and 16. Vetter rides down a mountain bike trail in Wenatchee. Vetter, 70, said electric bikes help him get out on the trail after having “more orthopedic surgeries than you want to know about.” Mauseth climbs a hill as her electric mountain bike helps her power along. Mauseth said she averages three rides a week with her new electric mountain bike.
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Dan Criel, owner of Full Circle Bikes, said electric bikes have become more common in recent years. “They’re very popular,” he said.
Tired of getting left behind on the hills, Vetter and his wife switched to electric mountain bikes two years ago and they haven’t looked back since. “I’ve gotten out and ridden a lot of miles now that I couldn’t go do before,” Vetter said. “We wanted to be able to ride more terrain and ride faster. It allows us to access the mountain easier, get more miles in on the day.” Electric bicycle technology has quickly advanced in recent years, packing more power and battery life into lighter components. And as Vetter’s experience shows, cyclists are increasingly trading their traditional bicycles for electrified rides. Josh Eiffert, a sales manager at Arlberg Sports in Wenatchee, said there’s surging demand for electric bikes. He expects electric bicycles July / August 2021
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Ace Bollinger said he wants more of the region’s trails to be open to electric mountain bikes because they allow more people to explore the outdoors without damaging trails.
Heather Mauseth and Thom Vetter ride their electric mountain bikes up a ridgeline just outside of Wenatchee.
to be more common than traditional bicycles (referred to as “acoustic” bikes, like a guitar, in the cycling community) within five years. “A lot of people say, ‘Well, you’re cheating.’ But the one thing you are cheating is time,” Eiffert said. “This 42
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eliminates the amount of time it takes to do things. You can go faster, you can go further, you can go more times, and you can go more often.” Electric bicycles are divided into three categories based on the capabilities of their electric motors. Most
electric mountain bikes fall into the Class 1 category, which means the motor only turns on while you are pedaling and will stop helping you once you get to 20 mph. Class 2 bikes have a throttle, allowing you to turn the motor on and ride up to 20 mph without pedaling. Class 3 bikes do not have a throttle, but their motors will engage while you’re pedaling and help you ride up to 28 mph. Heather Mauseth said she has ridden mountain bikes all around the Wenatchee Valley for years but switched to an electric mountain bike to make it easier to ride further and do more back-to-back rides. “I still have my standard bike, which I love, but I love this new world of fun and being able to do
more,” she said. “When you want to ride multiple days in a row, it’s nice to have the opportunity to have fun and keep going, and I love the way it handles downhill.” Electric bicycles have become a common sight across Wenatchee, from the Apple Capital Recreation Loop Trail to downtown roads and mountain trails. But e-bike regulations differ between various trails, so it’s best to confirm that electric bikes are allowed before planning on riding a specific trail. Ace Bollinger, a Wenatchee local who takes his electric mountain bike around the entire state, said he hopes state laws change so electric mountain bikes will be allowed on more trails. “We’re pushing at a statewide level to have all the trails open unless specifically designated as closed, and to have the local people that live in an area make the decisions,” Bollinger said. “These e-bikes don’t tear the trails up any more than an acoustic bike and we’re putting on more miles and more smiles.”
Josh Eiffert, a sales manager at Arlberg Sports in Wenatchee, holds a brand new electric mountain bike at the store’s downtown showroom.
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OUTDOORS
WORDS AND IMAGES BY JOSHUA M. POWELL
Along the trail A view of the wilderness looking toward Mount Adams, Washington’s secondhighest mountain after Mount Rainier. 44
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PCT hiker/ author Joshua M. Powell.
A PCT thru-hiker’s detailed observations from his adventure of a lifetime Editor’s note: This is an edited excerpt from Joshua M. Powell’s book “The Pacific Crest Trail: A Visual Compendium.” Powell hiked the PCT in 2014, making the trek of 2,653 miles over the course of 132 days. This excerpt covers the portion of his hike from Stevens Pass to Stehekin, the PCT stretch that Powell says was his favorite part of the trail.
Hiker Haven
I
N 2003, JERRY Dinsmore invited three thru-hikers back to his home, thinking they were homeless and in need of help. He soon learned they were hiking the PCT, and Hiker Haven was born. Jerry and his wife, Andrea, hosted hikers every year after that and became particularly adept at helping
northbound hikers make wise decisions regarding the potentially dangerous weather north of Stevens Pass. When I visited in 2014, plastic pink flamingos adorned the yard. Andrea’s license plate read, “PCT MOM,” and next to it was a bumper sticker that stated, “Hug a logger. You’ll never go back to trees.” Hikers did their laundry and wandered about in borrowed clothing. One woman wore a tiny dress, revealing a smattering of tattoos. A male hiker donned a dress as well, the hair on his shoulders and back sticking out in large patches. A German hiker joked in his thick accent, “You look silly … but sexy.” July / August 2021
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⓴
lan DM arKs
⓴
lan DM ar Ks
⓳
⓲
⓳
⓲
⓱ ⓰
⓱
• Mazama
• Mazama
⓯ ⓮
⓮
⓭
⓬
⓫
⓬
⓫
Seattle • Seattle
Baring Baring •
•
•
Northwest National Harts Trail, Pass,20 last unpaved Scenic
road, 19
Harts Pass, last unpaved Mount road, 19 Baker, 18
RainyBaker, Pass, 18 last paved Mount
⓰
⓭
Junction with Pacific Northwest National Junction with Pacific Scenic Trail, 20
❿
❿
⓯
• Stehekin • Stehekin
road,Pass, 17 last paved Rainy road, 17 Cascades North
National Park, 16 North Cascades National Park, Lake Chelan 16 National Recreation Area, 15 Lake Chelan National Recreation Area,and 15 largest Suiattle River Suiattle River trees of the and trail,largest 14 trees of the trail, 14
Fire Creek Pass and old
Fire Creek Pass old Cascade Crestand Trail sign, 13 Cascade Crest Trail sign, 13
Glacier Peak, 12
Glacier Peak, 12
Cady Pass and 1920s
Cady Pass and 1920s tree carving, 11 tree carving, 11
Stevens Pass, 10
Stevens Pass, 10
Snoqualmie Pass and old
❾❾
Snoqualmie Pass and old CascadeCrest Crest Cascade Trail sign, Trail sign, 9 9
Chinook Pass, Chinook Pass, 8 8 Mount Rainier Mount Rainier National Park, National Park, 7 7 White Pass and White Pass and oldold Cascade Crest Trail sign, 6 6 Cascade Crest Trail sign, Goat and oldold GoatRocks Rocks and Cascade Crest Trail sign, 5 5 Cascade Crest Trail sign,
❼❼
Mount Saint Helens, 4 4 Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, 3 Mount Adams, 3
❽❽
Indian Race Track, 2 2 Indian Race Track, Columbia River, 1
Columbia River, 1
• • Packwood
❻
❻
Packwood
❺
❺
Most scenic days Most scenic days or sections
or sections
Celebrity Sightings
Celebrity Sightings
Buddy Backpacker
❹
❹
❸
❸
• Trout Lake
• Trout Lake
❷
❷ ❶ 46
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July / August 2021
Buddy Backpacker Ron Strickland Ron Strickland Stringbean Stringbean Barely Missed Celebrity Sighting Barely Missed Scott Williamson Celebrity Sighting Scott Williamson
Favorite part of the trail, best weather of the trail, Favorite part of the trail, and most solitude of best weather of the trail, the trail
and most solitude of the trail
Mount Adams as viewed from the Goat Rocks Wilderness.
Jerry Dinsmore, clad in suspenders and a vintage Kenworth Trucks shirt, pulled up a chair alongside me, and we sat and watched as a train rolled past, loaded down with airplanes en route to the Boeing facility near Seattle. They were only fuselages, devoid of their wings. “There’s a tunnel a few miles back with a pile of wings next to the entrance,” he joked. Another thru-hiker, fresh from Stevens Pass, was dropped off in the driveway. Andrea greeted him, reaching out her arm to shake hands. He instinctively stuck out his closed hand, offering the customary thru-hiker fist bump. “Oh, that’s not gonna go over well,” Jerry said, laughing. The PCT community lost a very special member with the passing of Andrea in 2017. Jerry still welcomes hikers to his home in Baring.
Joshua M. Powell found weathered Pacific Crest Trail signs in a variety of shapes and states of deterioration along the trail. July / August 2021
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Glacier Peak Wilderness THE SURROUNDING RIDGES are carpeted in luminous green meadows lit up by the morning sun. The sky is free of haze, and the surrounding mountains are crystal clear as far as the eye can see. Rainier still reveals itself from time to time, peeking over southern ridges. Marmots whistle from the berry bushes, their heads protruding from the leaves like periscopes as they scan their surroundings. The trail at times crosses over snowfields and then past small Mica Lake, which still harbors floating ice. With September drawing near, the ice is unlikely to melt before the snow once again begins to fall — it has been victorious in its resistance to summer. Glacier Peak seems to be Washington’s forgotten volcano — due in part to its location within a large, roadless wilderness area. From surrounding areas, there are fewer 48
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dramatic views of the mountain than there are of Adams, Rainier or Baker. It tends to blend in with the tall, jagged peaks surrounding it. The thru-hiker, however, gets to know the volcano intimately as the PCT skirts along its base and crosses the creeks draining its slopes, gaining and losing thousands of feet of elevation in the process.
Stehekin FROM SUIATTLE PASS, the landscape seems to gradually tilt downward toward the horizon, and hikers can look forward to a descent all the way to Stehekin, the final trail town of the PCT — famous in thru-hiker lore for its bakery. It sits secluded at the northern tip of Lake Chelan, accessible only by boat, plane or hiking trail. To say that it’s remote is an understatement. The PCT brings hikers to the end of the single road that leads into town. From there they can get on the National Park Service shuttle or perhaps catch a ride with a local fisherman. Stehekin is small and compact, with an idyllic location amid the lake and mountains. All the vehicles parked at the ferry landing seem at least four or five decades old, only adding to the feeling that time stands still in this lakeside town. Hikers can set up for the night in a tiny campground perched on a miniature bluff above the water, watching brightly colored float planes land upon the lake’s surface and skim to a halt. When night falls, the view of the Milky Way is breathtaking. Stehekin translates to “the way through,” an appropriate name for a trail town on a thru-hike. Stehekin’s main road curves around the marshy northernmost tip of Lake Chelan, where the Little Boulder Creek empties into the lake. It is the extreme end of a 50-mile body of water that narrowly snakes through the mountains down to the dry and sun-baked wine country of Central Washington, so drastically different from the oftenovercast and rainy North Cascades.
Wenatchee • Lake Chelan • Leavenworth
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Joshua M. Powell writes about Washington’s old-growth giants: “It isn’t hard to imagine these trees as sentient beings, aware of one’s presence in the forest.”
The serpentine switchbacks of Section K near Stehekin. An old Chevy pickup passes by on the road. Owned by the Stehekin Pastry Company, it is on its way down to the boat landing. A girl and dog sit atop the wooden flatbed of the truck. Farther down the road is a beautiful garden full of cabbage, kale and other produce. A row of dahlias lines a path50
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way, the intricately geometrical puffs of each flower leading the way toward an apiary buzzing with honey bees. On a bench rests a pile of rainbow chard, the leaves bright green and glossy and the stems neatly arranged in shifting hues of orange, yellow and purple. The bakery truck passes again,
headed back in the other direction. This time, the girl sits in the passenger seat, and the flatbed is piled high with boxes and goods that have been boated in. The little dog is positioned atop the huge pile with his chest puffed out, standing guard over his precious cargo.
An equestrian and his pack horses make their way through the Glacial Peak Wilderness.
Ephemera and imagery found in the trail town of Stehekin.
Epilogue AS YOU HIKE mile after mile across three states, you imagine that final moment of reaching the border to be an overwhelming experience, assuming the gravity of it will hit you like a ton of bricks. In reality, however, when you’ve lived out every month and week and day and hour and minute and second that transpires between Mexico and Canada, it’s not quite as dramatic as you might expect. There was no surprise in the end, but the sense of accomplishment was
hardly diminished. And with it came the realization that it was all over, and I was headed back to real life, full of its own unique joys and difficulties. I couldn’t stay on the trail forever, nor did I wish to. I simply hoped to find the next big thing to work toward, the next passion that would consume me from waking until bedtime. While the PCT had officially ended, I still had more than 8 miles of trail leading me to Manning Provincial Park and its lodge. The morning felt dark and dreary, and it was easy to believe summer was finished. Fall was quickly approaching, with the dark and wet Pacific Northwest winter fast on its heels. I reached the end of the trail as it
met a paved road, and that was that. After 2,659 miles and more than four months of walking, the trail simply ended. There was nothing else to do but dump the rocks from my shoes and begin the short road walk to the lodge. I rounded the last corner and came to an abrupt stop as a Greyhound bus pulled out in front of me. I looked up at its tinted windows, wondering whether anyone I knew was inside. I squinted, focusing my eyes, and I could just make out the shapes of people behind the glass. They began to wave their arms at me and bang on the windows, yet the tinted glass continued to obscure their identities. It was a large group of hikers that had remained only a day ahead of me ever since Snoqualmie Pass. I had finally caught up to them. On that bus were hikers I had gotten to know over the course of hundreds and hundreds of miles. I was sad not to be able to see their faces, but I raised my arms up in the air triumphantly, grinning from ear to ear and tickled by the timing of it all. The bus turned the corner, pulled out onto Highway 3 and continued on toward Vancouver. F Joshua M. Powell is an awardwinning book designer who grew up in Virginia but fell in love with the West during a cross-country road trip. After two years working in Japan and a decade in the Seattle area, he now lives in Eastern Washington. Finding himself closer to the Rockies, he can’t help but dream about hiking the Continental Divide Trail or Pacific Northwest Trail. ©2021 by Joshua M. Powell. Excerpted from The Pacific Crest Trail: A Visual Compendium by permission of Sasquatch Books. July / August 2021
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Rob Mellison pours a glass of white wine for a tasting room guest.
Mellisoni Vineyards 52
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THE VINE
STORY BY RICK STEIGMEYER PHOTOS BY LUKE HOLLISTER
The tiny beginnings of grapes are seen here coming off of a vine at Mellisoni Vineyards in mid-May.
I Hospitality and great wine with a lake view
n its 12th year since humble beginnings, Mellisoni Vineyards is on a roll. The Chelan winery was named 2021 Washington Winery of the Year by Wine Press Northwest after winning dozens of platinum and gold medal awards in various Northwest wine competitions this past year. Production has increased until its storage facilities are bursting at the seams. Yet, Mellisoni’s pricey wines keep selling out. But let’s set things straight right up front. The owners of Mellisoni Vineyards are not Italian. Rob and Donna Mellison do, however, make excellent Italian style wines. And their style of friendly, intimate entertaining at their Lake Chelan tasting room is patterned after the best small, family-run agritourism wineries of Italy. “We added an ‘i’ to the end of our name to make it sound Italian,” laughed Rob, an animated and convivial storyteller of Irish heritage.
Donna and Rob Mellison, owners of Mellisoni Vineyards, pose for a photo in their winery’s front seating area overlooking Lake Chelan. July / August 2021
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Grapevines at Mellisoni Vineyards take in a little mid-May sun on a hillside above Lake Chelan.
Rob Mellison checks the vines in his steep vineyard at Mellisoni Vineyards, with Lake Chelan in the background.
That is not to say they are not welltrained in Italian wine and hospitality matters. Rob, 60, worked for many years as a regional sales manager for Salice, one of the world’s largest manufacturers of cabinet hinges and the inventor of soft-close cabinet and drawer closures. The company is based at Lake Como, in northern Italy. Rob’s job included taking groups of major clients, sometimes two or three times 54
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a year, on wine-and-dine sales trips to the scenic lake surrounded by some of Italy’s most famed wineries. The postcard setting, surrounded by foothills leading to the Swiss Alps, could be Lake Chelan with several hundred years of added cultural history. “I was eating very well and always drinking great wine. I really got to know Italian wines,” he said. And French and German wines, as well.
Rob and Donna met in Central Oregon while Donna was completing a degree in pharmacy at Oregon State University. They married and took their first trip to Italy together in 2002. “It was a vacation. No business,” Rob said. “We stayed at a winery and vineyard in Livorno and picked grapes all day and partied through the night.” The culmination of work and play with other guests and the winery owners convinced them to try something similar at the parcel of raw land they had purchased above Lake Chelan as a vacation property a few years before. “We decided, ‘We can do this. We can bring this experience back home with us,’” he said. Easier said than done, of course. While still living in Seattle, the couple had purchased 10 acres of steep hillside with great views of the lake. They had a fifth-wheel trailer there for vacations, but it was far cry from a resort winery. Rob had a wealth of experience in drinking great wine, but little knowledge of how to make it. “We knew nothing, but we knew what we liked,” he said.
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With a glass of wine in her hand, Donna Mellison wraps up the day and closes the tasting room for the evening on May 14.
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Guests drink wine and chat in an outdoor seating area at Mellisoni Vineyards on Lake Chelan’s south shore.
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Friday afternoon visitors gathering on an outside seating area at Mellisoni Vineyards by Chelan.
Staff at Mellisoni Vineyards share a post-work glass of wine after the tasting room closes for the day. 56
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They wanted to make wine comparable to the best from Europe. To do so, they knew they had to learn from some of the best in the industry. They hired Ed Kelly, longtime manager for Stillwater Creek Vineyard, as a consultant in planting their vineyards. To help make their first wines, they hired Katy Perry, a winemaking consultant who has worked for Robert Mondavi, Chateau St. Michelle and many other wineries in California and Washington and now owns Tildio Winery near Manson. “We started out selling wine from our fifth wheel on the lawn,” said Donna. “We had a dream and we did it. We didn’t do it all at once, but we did it.” That first 2010 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon, by the way, was given a Diamond of Decade Award at the 2020 Seattle Wine Awards. Other Mellisoni wines also won three Best of Class Awards and five Double Gold medals. At the 2020 Wine Press Northwest Best of the Best competition, Mellisoni wines won two Double Platinum, six Platinum and four Double Gold medals. Mellisoni was named 2021 Washington Winery of the Year as a result.
Most of the early wines were made with purchased grapes and white varieties they planted. Rob built a small storage shed that could hold about 50 cases of wine that were sold to mostly Seattle customers by appointment. Wine tastings were held on the lawn in front of the fifth wheel. With Kelly’s help, Rob and Donna planted four acres of vineyard on the steep hillside with 10 grape varieties, starting with Riesling and Gewürztraminer in 2006. Italian varieties like Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo, as well as Bordeaux varieties, were later planted on the steepest flanks above. Six more varieties were more recently planted on shared land nearby. Current vintages are now made with about 50 percent estate grapes and 50 percent purchased from famed Stillwater Creek Vineyard. Estate vineyards are all managed and harvested by hand with a minimum of chemicals or machinery. Wines are now made solely by Rob and Donna, who retired from her pharmacy management position three years ago to devote full time to the winery. Rob credits Donna’s chemistry background and quest for perfection
Rob Mellison plucks a stray leaf off of a vine at Mellisoni Vineyards in mid-May. with a sharp improvement in the white wines since then. The couple gradually built a twostory house where the fifth-wheel once sat. They live upstairs, while the downstairs houses the winery tasting room, production area and storage. The indoor/outdoor tasting room and spacious lawn seating offer majestic
views of Lake Chelan and the snowcapped Cascades. Mellisoni bottles about 2,700 cases of wine annually, with another 2,000 cases kept for reserve wines. Reds are aged 22 months in new French oak. Reserve wines get 36 months aging. Although Mellisoni wines are on the expensive side — ranging between
PICKING WINNERS FOR OVER A DECADE The Annual Wine Issue is your guide to the region’s best wines.
WENATCHEE u LEAVENWORTH u CHELAN u AND ALL OF NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON
WENATCHEE u LEAVENWORTH u CHELAN u AND ALL OF NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON
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WENATCHEE u LEAVENWORTH u CHELAN u AND ALL OF NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON
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September-October 2019
September-October 2018
The Wine issue
The Wine issue Crayelle Cellars wins top honor in competition
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The Wine issue
Silvara Vineyards rides its Malbec to Best of Show
The Wine issue
Cave B’s Chenin Blanc shines brightest in wine competition
Inside Granny’s Cookbook Yesteryear’s recipes are simple, delicious
Minus the Snow Stevens Pass Bike Park is a rush
Winners from the 2018 Wenatchee Wine & Food Festival Wine Competition
Pick up your free copy in September at Fred Meyer, Safeway or Albertsons stores or at locations throughout North Central Washington. July / August 2021
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Top: Visitors Morgan McCarthy, left, clinks her wine glass with Biss McCarthy during a mid-May visit to the Mellisoni tasting room. Bottom: Mellisoni Vineyards’ 2021 Bollincini is a sparkling Brut-style bubbly wine. 58
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$35 and $150 per bottle — most wines sell out each year. Currently, 19 varietals and Italianand French-style blends and a port are on the menu. Wine club members get substantial discounts. Even with the past year’s COVID pandemic restrictions, sales were up 168 percent from the previous year, which was up a similar amount from the previous year, Rob said. “We had so much love and support from our wine club members,” added Donna. “They really came through this winter. They bought cases of wine.” The couple said the winery’s success has been earned with hard work, excellent wine and a strong desire to create people-pleasing ambience and hospitality. Staff — made up of wine club members all over the age of 70 — strive to present a personable, fun, warm and educational experience in the style of an Italian family winery. “We want people to relax and enjoy themselves … and give them an experience they will remember,” Rob said. “It’s our mission.” F
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A TASTE OF NCW WINES WITH BARB ROBERTSON
Lone Point Cellars BT. 2019 Tempranillo, $30
Rootwood 2020 Rosé Cider, $16
Entiat Wines 2020 Entiat Cordilleran, $23
Lone Point Cellars is a winery to watch. Not only does the winery have gorgeous views of the Columbia River and Brewster, but they are also producing award-winning wines. The Divis family are longtime orchardists who have taken their farming expertise in the orchards to the vineyards. This 2019 Tempranillo is a great example. Cherry, garden tomato and fresh fig invite further exploration of this savory wine. The palate has a racy, medium body with plum and herbs on the long finish. Due to the refreshing acidity, it will pair well with all kinds of food; for this time of year, barbecue would be great.
This is a different take on pink in
The story behind the creation of
the glass. At only 7% alcohol, this is a wonderful summer sipper. The Koenig sisters are the fifth generation of their family’s apple orchard business in Manson and seem open to mixing things up a bit. This rosé cider gets its pink color and structure from Syrah grape skins. It is full bodied with plenty of lush fruit and a slightly tannic finish. If you’d like to take a pretty drive, the Rootwood tasting room is open Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, visit rootwoodcider.com.
wines lends a richness to the glass that takes them to a different level than most beverages. Entiat Wines is a project that explores the terroir of North Central Washington as compared to the more traditional Columbia Valley Basin. It is an intriguing idea that is not new but perhaps not stated in such a way. The grapes for this traditional White Bordeaux blend of 74% Sauvignon Blanc and 26% Semillon come from Double DD Vineyard, next to the Columbia River near Orondo. Honeyed lemon, passion fruit and white lilac are the dominant notes. The mouthfeel is full, rich and elegant with a slight salinity to the finish. Try it with sushi, pork or chicken dishes. You can find the Cordilleran online at entiatwines.com.
Barb Robertson City: Wenatchee Credentials: Earned advanced certification through Londonbased Wine and Spirit Education Trust; currently working toward higher-level diploma through WSET. Earned degree in marketing from Central Washington University. Owned The Wine Bin retail shop in Wenatchee for five years, as well as the Mission Street Bistro Wine Bar for 14 years. Has worked 62
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in the Northwest wine industry for more than 15 years, including sales, production and marketing. She is currently a wine industry specialist for Saxco International packaging company. Was a judge for the 2011-18 North Central Washington Wine Awards competition, the 2017-20 Cascadia Wine Competition and Wine Press Northwest’s 2020 Platinum Judging.
Mellisoni 2017 Forte Rosso $150 Many people are familiar with drinking Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec as single varietals, so when you see a Cabernet-Malbec blend, that might seem unusual. However, these two grapes make up French Bordeaux blends and know each other well. Mellisoni knew what they were doing when they created Forte Rosso. The aromas lift out of the glass effortlessly and include ripe Bing cherry, blackberry and currant. Its young assertiveness led me to taste this repeatedly over the course of four days. On the first day I detected the Bing Cherry, blackberry and some licorice. As it aired, it developed more complexity. Caramel, pipe tobacco, warmed raspberry, gravel and a hint of floral surfaced. It was good the first day I tried it, but it got even better. I knew the wine was special before I saw the price. It’s not an everyday drinker for 99% of us, but it is a lovely way to celebrate a day. — Barb Robertson
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