Winter 2014
Cook BookS & ChriStMaS gift ideaS galore profileS of top loCal ChefS
Spotlight on... Bantry, Sheep'S head & durruS MilleenS CheeSe WeSt Cork'S original artiSan CeleBrateS 40 yearS a vegetarian at your taBle
k r o C t s e W e t a m i t l u e Th
! s a m t s i Chr
pluS lotS of feStive food & drinkS ideaS
www.fieldsofskibbereen.ie
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Winter 2014
Front of house
o t s k e e w w Only a fe Christmas!
Welcome to the 2014 winter edition of West Fork magazine.
It’s been a good year for food in West Cork, with our local artisan producers winning awards all around us, and news of more jobs for the region, whether it be Scally’s ground-breaking gluten-free factory in Clonakilty or the return of the famous black pudding firm to the same town, as part of the planned major visitor centre. But all around the region, new restaurants and cafés have been popping up and the farmers’ markets are busier than ever. West Cork food is really making a name for itself, not just in our own little land, but much further afield. Our cheeses are currently in big demand in the UK and throughout Europe, our fish goes as far as Asia, and visitors have been coming in their droves to taste our succulent meats, thanks to our green pastures and clean environment. This winter’s West Fork magazine is testament to all that is good in our beautiful little corner of this island. Whether you are hosting a dinner club, heading out to a pop-up restaurant, or want to know the best place for a winter warmer, like a cosy carvery or a treat to tickle your taste-buds, it’s all in this edition of West Cork’s only dedicated food magazine. We have a special emphasis on Christmas fayre this year, with everything from the traditional turkey and all the trimmings, to less conventional options like pork, fish and duck, and not forgetting a vegetarian Christmas. So sit back, relax and enjoy a mighty fine foodie read, that you can really get your teeth into!
We’re very appreciative of all the feedback we get from our readers after every edition, thank you and keep it coming at enquiries@westfork.ie. In addition, we’d like to thank all of our advertisers for their continued support. Wishing you and your families a wonderful West Cork Christmas
The West Fork team
Contents Starters - Supper clu bs, pop-up eaterie s, funky farms and falafel fans 6 Love it or hate it? Th
e Tripadvisor effe
7
ct
Best carveries for co
sy winter dinners
8
From the chef’s m outh: Q&A w ith He len Carroll and Lee Kennedy
10
Steele’s resolve an d
Paul’s pies:
12 & 13
Thinking outside th A vegetarian at yo
e box: lovely lunc
ur table
Focus on Bantry &
Sheep’s Head
15
hes
16 17-20
A very special Chris tmas 21 Now we’re talking turkey – with Kitty Tobin 22-23 Strictly legal: the Poitín revival 24 - 25 Deli Counter & Fab Fish for Christmas A foodie’s paradise : Living the West
26-27
Cork life
Gorgeous gift idea s & chefs’ cookbook s Home cooking thou
ghts from abroad
Last Word – John Fie
28-29
30 -31
32
ld on supporting lo
cal
34
Publisher Star Creative, part of The Southern Star Managing Director Sean Mahon CreativeTeam Alan Tobin, Bebeanne Carey Editorial Team Con Downing, Siobhán Cronin, Jackie Keogh, Niall O’Driscoll. Cammy Harley, Kate Ryan Advertising Sales Donnchadh Crowley , Anne Kelleher Printer Webprint Concepts, Cork For all Star Creative enquiries please call 028 21200 or enquiries@westfork.ie ideas | publishing | branding | digital | design
star creative
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to Sunday Open for lunch Wednesday New Brunch menu every m - 3pm Saturday and Sunday 10a
4 West Fork magazine
St
Destination dining Monk’s Lane is making a name for itself as a destination dining spot on the Wild Atlantic Way in picturesque Timoleague. Run by Michelle O’ Mahony and Gavin Moore, it has a menu which showcases the best of ethically produced West Cork bounty. The signature dish is potted crab, Ummera Smoked Salmon, Gubbeen Chorizo cooked in red wine, Durrus Crostini and local organic leaves. Or you can pop by for a cheese board and taste of their wine list which focuses on small, passionate producers. See facebook.com/monkslane
arters
Snippets of News from the West Cork Food Scene
Dynamic duo at Peppermint Farm Located in the foothills of Bantry, Peppermint Farm is unique in that it is the only organic herbal farm in West Cork. Established in 1999, it is run by Doris and Achim Hoffman, a dynamic duo who offer a wide range of services. Achim is in charge of the greenhouses and delightful raised beds for sale, while Doris (above) is the green-fingered expert behind the success of the 300 herb varieties the farm has to offer. ‘We do all types of herbs from culinary, to medicinal and fragrant. We also have a range of organic herbal teas,’ says Doris. Hand crafted, loose-leaf herbal tea is a most luxuriant beverage. ‘Our loose-leaf herbal tea is fresh, fragrant and longer lasting than conventional tea found in mass-produced bags,’ she adds. Doris sells her produce at farmers’ markets in Bantry, Skibbereen and Schull during the warmer months from March to October, but also has an online shop. For those preferring a more conventional mail order service, her website provides that option too, and a mail order list can be downloaded and printed out. Doris travels to many national events and plant fairs and is often seen displaying her herbs at Phoenix Park, Fota and the Mallow Garden Show. To visit the nursery in person to choose your herbs, booking is essential on 028-31869.For more information and to see the comprehensive A-Z list of herbs, visit the website at www.peppermintfarm.com
FOR
Supper clubs and pop-up restaurants are trending! BY KATE RYAN Home cooking has become more technical, more adventurous and more flavoursome,. For my generation, cooking has never been more ‘in your face’ – with TV chefs, ‘books accompanying the TV series’, superstar cooks and the ever-increasing availability of non-native ingredients. We have all become ‘four star’ chefs in our modest little kitchens. But for those of us who have never gone to catering college to learn knife skills or de-boning techniques, the better option is to show off to our friends and family by hosting elaborate dinner parties. Everyone is a winner here – the cook gets to show off skills to ego-boosting praise (hopefully) and the diners get a stonking good meal for the price of a decent bottle of red and a box of chocolates. But what next? Inevitably for some of us, serving up food for friends and family is only good for so long, and for some of us getting a great quality
meal out can be a fraught and expensive business. The next logical step is for ‘foodies’ to host their own ‘supper cub’. The supper club is a burgeoning scene that, like most food trends, started out in New York some years back. After picking up devotees in London, it is now finally here. Supper clubs – like the Bantry-based Faraway Supper Club (catch them on Facebook!) – are events where home cooks can serve up highend quality meals for club members in their own ‘home’ restaurant – quality meals without the quality price tag! Wine and tipples are on a BYO basis, and donations are made to cover the basic cost of the meal prepared by the host. Taking hold in Dublin first, it is finally taking a hold in Cork with supper clubs springing up everywhere. A firm ear to the ground on Facebook and Twitter will unlock news of these events. What’s the other must-know trend for foodies, I hear you ask? The restaurant industry is currently reacting
to the ever-increasing demands of sophisticated diners with their diva taste buds with another new shift in emphasis: Pop-up restaurants. Emanating from the Street Food movement (cue NYC and LDN again), pop-ups are increasingly being used by food producers and restaurauteurs alike to experiment in a ‘no frills’, experimental, ‘we’ll give this new menu a lash and see how it goes down’ kind of way. Most of the time they rock (next time you are in London, head down to the South Bank to while away many hours at the Street Food scene there which is pretty much permanent at this stage). Again, these events are typically on the ‘so-trendy-it-hurts’ scale of eventing, so advertising is generally viral via social media and word of mouth. (Follow Dunworley Cottage, near Clonakilty, on Facebook. ) The modern foodie will let the world know at the touch of a smartphone if it’s any good, but why not find out for yourself first!
The falafel lady SHEILA Hami’s successful market stall specialises in Middle Eastern Food – a healthy blend of food such as fruits, vegetables, fish, lean meat, beans and nuts. Sheila has been running her vegetarian speciality stall for over 13 years now. ‘I have been coming to the Bantry fair for about 12 years,’ says Sheila. ‘I also do the Kenmare market on a Wednesday and the Milltown indoor market outside Killarney’. Sheila, a former computer programmer and bookshop manager in Israel, has now found her niche in food. Each week she provides an assortment of hummus, pesto, falafel and samosa, to name just a few. ‘All my baking is completely wheatfree,’ says Sheila, ‘I only use Spelt flour.’Sheila bakes an assortment of delights, ranging from nutty cocoa brownies to carrot cake, which carry all the charm and flavour of the Middle East and includes their regional staples such as pistachios, figs, dates and pomegranates. ‘I am flexible with what I provide,’ says Sheila. ‘It changes with the seasons such as more salads in the summer months’.
Why the Allshires are true trailblazers Since launching their business in 2000 in Caherbeg near Rosscarbery, Willie and Avril Allshire have won a table full of awards. The very first time they entered a competition was in 2003. Since then, the Allshires have won awards in this and other competitions every year. Their winning list now totals 33, and all this from still a quite limited product range, including black pudding, white pudding, rashers, bacon and sausages. A trail blazer, Willie was the first Irish person to win a medal in the biggest European Black Pudding Competition in 2007, with Gold for Rosscarbery Black Pudding. Since then he is the only person in West Cork who has been inducted into the French Black and White Pudding Fraternities (Brotherhoods) and Avril is a member of the White Pudding Fraternity. And 2014 has been
very special. They won three awards for Black Pudding inFrance, and a gold star in the Great Taste Awards (UK) in September, they also received the Belling West Cork Original Artisan Producer Award. Just four weeks later, they won gold for the second time in three years for Rosscarbery Black Pudding in the Blas na hÉireann awards in Dingle. Willie and his team also produce the only Dry Cure Ham in West Cork. It is as good as their Rosscarbery Loin Bacon, being 98% pork with a delicate flavour and low salt content. Have your ham between Christmas Day and Stephen’s Day with a little for sandwiches the day after. To order: 023 884 8474 or email: willie@rosscarberyrecipes.ie. Prices per kg have not increased since 2010, despite many pressures.
West Fork magazine
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r o f p s u t c s i u d y o a r w p e y l s n u o o h e m Th r a F n e e b b Gu Multi-faceted Gubbeen food enterprise is a team effort IN an area where there is little or no industry, Gubbeen Farmhouse Products in Schull employs 19 people and, for good measure, is a year-round tourism attraction, says Jackie Keogh. In addition to the direct jobs this family enterprise provides, it is also of tremendous benefit to the wider community, particularly those in the agri sector because it is encouraging local farmers to join them in rearing quality pigs for its smokehouse range of cured meats. Gubbeen Farmhouse Products has won numerous awards for its famous Gubbeen Cheese – including the presentation in June of a Gold Medal at the British Cheese Awards – an honour that will certainly raise the profile of this already well-established brand. Gubbeen is one of the original farmhouse cheeses and has been made by the Ferguson family for more than 35 years. Today, the enterprise is a team effort with father and mother, Tom and Giana, working alongside their son and daughter, Fingal and Clovisse, in different aspects of the business. Soon after it was announced that the business had won gold at the British Cheese awards, there was a further announcement that Gubbeen Farmhouse Products was to receive a €200,000 grant under the Adding Value to Agricultural and Forestry Products measure, which was distributed by West Cork Development Partnership.
The Gold Medal at the British Cheese Awards is an honour that will certainly raise the profile of this well-established brand That €200,000 grant, together with a €500,000 direct investment by the family, will see the development of greenfield site to make way for a new processing plant to manufacture Gubbeen Smokehouse Products. The new building will include a butchering facility, smokehouse, production area for a range of salamis and cured meats, a distribution hub for all Gubbeen products, and a central office space for sales and accounts. An investment of this size and significance is expected to create five new jobs over the next five years and will go a long way to consolidating a business that has been five generations in the making.
6 West Fork magazine
The wide-reaching appeal of Gubbeen Farmhouse Products is the subject of a truly beautiful new book that has just been published and is entitled: Gubbeen – the story of a working farm and its roots. With a use of language that is as rich and sustaining as the products they produce, Tom, Giana, Fingal and Clovisse explain their areas of speciality: The farm, the cheese, the smokehouse and the kitchen garden, their respective talents.
The €700,000 investment allowed us to expand production to meet growing demand, increase employment, and develop our product range. It was about 15 years ago that Fingal started the smokehouse and his range of cured meats, particularly Gubbeen salami, has become an integral part of the Gubbeen Farmhouse range, and regularly features in the finest restaurants in Ireland and the UK. The new building at Gubbeen – which is located one mile from the town of Schull and is adjacent to the 250-acre family farm – is, according to Fingal, ‘A timely endeavour because we had outgrown our existing facility. ‘The €700,000 investment will,’ he added, ‘allow us to expand production to meet growing demand, increase employment, and develop our product range.’ Nothing is wasted at Gubbeen and what motivates this family is the desire to produce food that is local, seasonal, delicious and fresh. There is, however, a circle of life very much in evidence at Gubbeen. The milk from Tom’s herd is used to make the cheese and the by-product from that, the whey, is used to feed the pigs that are reared on the farm for Fingal’s charcuterie. Completing the circle, Clovisse runs the gardens and bio-dynamically grows the herbs for the cures in the smokehouse, as well as selling a large range of leaves and vegetables at the local farmers’ markets in Skibbereen, Schull, Bantry and Mahon Point. Such is the interest in all things Gubbeen that the Ferguson family has, throughout the year, hosted a series of farm walks. Check their website (www.gubbeen.com) for further details, or make it part of a visit to Schull see this fine working farm in operation.
e, Giana, Tom e team: Cloviss
Meet th
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Gubbeen Farmhouse Products Ltd. Gubbeen House, Schull, Co. Cork, Ireland T: 028 28231 F: 028 28609 E: cheese@gubbeen.com www.gubbeen.com Available from Amazon or www.gubbeen.com Also the Gubbeen Market stalls locally!
The Tripadvisor effect
IT may be one of the best-read travel websites in the world, but how much should we rely on Tripadvisor? Siobhán Cronin reports The reviews website, which rates everything from beaches to hotel views, came in for some stick earlier this year when a Dublin hotelier said he would take on people who were using the site to get a reduction in prices. A couple of German guests had complained about some relatively minor issues, he said, and sought a reduction when they were leaving, citing a bad review they may leave on Tripadvisor. The manager said he would take these ‘threats’ seriously and spoke on radio of an increasing problem with people claiming they would put negative reviews on the website, if they did not get a discount on their bill. It raises the question of how reliable the site is, and how open it may be to abuse by reviewers. Food writer and West Cork resident John McKenna (pictured) says travellers shouldn’t rely too much on such sites. ‘The guy writing the review might have had a fight with his wife in the car two minutes before going into the restaurant, hence his negative opinion, but you can’t ever know that, and that is the weak-ness,’ says John. He adds that such sites ‘encourage windbags and egotists and narcissists, people who would Jo hn M ckenn never, ever be paid to a express their opinions. It’s a classic example of the very worst type of people power.’ More seriously, believes John, such review sites can be used by public relations companies on behalf of their clients, so the reports are often not real. Michael O’Neill Jnr of the four-star Fernhill House Hotel in Clonakilty, would tend to agree: ‘I believe that Tripadvisor can be a useful tool but people have to remember that the rankings are flawed. This is because the site gives a higher ranking to businesses that promote Tripadvisor. It is also open to abuse as anyone can leave a review,’ he points out. He says this includes people who have never been to the establishment, the business themselves or competitors. ‘If I am researching a trip online, I use sites that guarantee that reviewers have been customers of the business. Having said that, the opinion of someone that you know is the most important of all.’ But, says McKenna, restaurateurs do need to pay attention to the likes of Tripadvisor
because, he says, ‘a bad review can colour people’s opinion of their work’. Some of them use it well and respond directly to criticism, he adds, but they shouldn’t have to. ‘If someone has a bad experience, they should complain there and then and get a response. To do it later, in print, seems to us to be completely the wrong way to approach a bad experience.’ Pauline O’Shea of the successful An Chistin Beag restaurant in Skibbereen says she has been ‘converted’ to Tripadvisor. ‘At first I didn’t really like it, but now I can see the benefit for sure.’ Of course, it helps when Tripadvisor reviewers love your product – and Pauline’s popular restaurant, which she runs with her sister, does consistently well on the site. In fact, it is currently the No 1 restaurant in Skibbereen, with a five-star rating.
However, Shane Roche (below) of the Innishannon House Hotel doesn’t share Pauline’s positive reaction to the site. ‘I have a major issue with certain aspects of it. Number one is the anonymous nature of it,’ he says. ‘I feel that while everybody is entitled to freedom of speech, at the same time their identity should be tagged with their comments,’ he says. Shane has had similar experiences to the Dublin hotelier who raised the issue earlier this year. ‘If they weren’t anonymous, it would weed out the Tripadvisor trolls, who at times use it as a form of blackmail, knowing that an establishment may be inclined to bow to their demands so as not to get an unfavourable review.’ He adds that, more often than not, when certain types of people are writing an unfavourable review, they tend to exaggerate. ‘It is very hard for the establishment to counter act this
without sounding petty,’ he notes. Shane says that genuine Feedback is, of course, vital for any business, whether it be ‘positive or constructive’. ‘We welcome all feedback and actually encourage it. But to post something on a public forum anonymously, without giving the establishment a chance to comment privately first, is not creating a just or level playing field.’ ‘Having said all that,’ says Shane, ‘I have no issue with genuine people interacting on the forum. In theory it should be a great barometer of whether to choose one establishment over another. I can understand why some do not entertain it. To sum up, it has the potential to be a positive part of tourism and will be here for some time to come. But the flaws – such as false and misleading comments – will have to be eradicated so that people can make an informed decision, based on genuine comments.’
She says you have to acknowledge that people can have bad days. ‘I had a bad experience just after we opened,’ she told West Fork. ‘Someone came in and wrote things that were definitely not true, as I was working here 24/7 at the time and would have remembered. I got onto Tripadvisor and they said they would investigate it and it would be taken down within a fortnight if it wasn’t authenticated. I checked back two weeks later and, in fairness to them, the review was gone.’ Nowadays, she says, that while online review sites have their ‘disadvantages’, because friends and family can contribute the reviews and you’ll never know, they are also worth paying attention to. ‘I’d use Tripadvisor myself, and if you read enough reviews, you will spot the ones that aren’t genuine.’ She says you have to acknowledge that people can have bad days, people may just not like your type of food, and of course, always remember that people Shane who come into res Roche taurants are generally hungry and that can make them quite ratty. ‘I always tell the staff to smile, no matter how many times someone might complain. But 99% of people, once they are fed, are quite normal!’
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West Fork magazine
7
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8 West Fork magazine
When pub grub got posh You don’t have to spend a fortune or travel to a five star Michelin restaurant to get top notch food these days. The best of meals – and deals – could be right on your doorstep, says Siobhán Cronin PUB grub has never been better. The your local pub or hotel is likely to be entire Irish food service market has competing with the local Michelingrown from €6bn in 2013 to €6.13bn starred restaurant for business, so the this year, and forecasts that it will hit stakes are high. Our tastes have moved €6.5bn by the end of 2017. up a gear in recent years and so, too, Those figures are from have the food options Nowadays, your local a recent Bord Bia rewhen we go out to eat. port, that shows that pub or hotel is likely to be Whether it’s a fancy although the decline competing with the local Sunday lunch, a quick in the number of pubs bite after work, or a Michelin-starred restaurant favourite ‘local’ for in Ireland has been for business, so the stakes well documented, a weekly treat with pubs still account for are high. work colleagues, a quarter (25%) of all there’s hardly a town consumer spend. or village in Ireland This shows that the improved food that doesn’t have a gourmet offering of offering in pubs has certainly brought some sort, for local and visitor alike. in the business. No more dribbly stew From vintage and Victorian cafés to in chipped soup bowls for lunch, soggy cosy carvery pub lunches, it seems tomatoes with limp lettuce masquerevery taste is catered for today. So, supading as ‘side salad’ and, thankfully, no port your local pub grub, or hotel bar more toasted cheese sandwiches that or restaurant, and if you like what you come out of plastic bags. Nowadays, get, then spread the word.
Pub Grub West Cork pubs among the best
AN Súgan and Deasy’s in Clonakilty and Mary Ann’s, Castletownshend, are amongst the West Cork pubs who have retained their listing in the new-look 2015 Michelin ‘Eating Out In Pubs’ Guide just published. Deasy’s has also secured an ‘Inspector’s Favourite’ commendation. Twenty-four other pubs from the Republic of Ireland and seven from Northern Ireland also feature in the publication. In overall terms, counties Cork and Down share the honours with six listings each. Noting that pubs are a quintessential part of Irish life and often the hub of the community, Guide editor Rebecca Burr (who also edits the famed ‘Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland’) said: ‘The standard of food
being served in Irish pubs continues to reach new heights’. The new-look Michelin ‘Eating Out In Pubs’ Guide features colour photographs, an in-depth description of each listing, with prices and directions for each entry. It is now available in bookshops and online priced at €14.99. Produced by leading tyre manufacturer Michelin – the only remaining tyre manufacturer still operating in Ireland – this year’s Guide recommends some 590 pubs spread across England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland, of which 70 are new entries and all of which are selected, first and foremost, for the quality of their food.
Dine at the West Cork Hotel this festive season The heart of Skibbereen O Breakfast
Avail of our continental or cooked Breakfast served until 12pm
O Carvery Lunch Choose from our hearty carvery lunch served seven days a week
O Afternoon Tea Enjoy a luxurious afternoon tea daily between 2.30 – 5pm. Booking essential
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O Restaurant menu
A great choice of food served from 5.30pm
Private Dining Rooms available
Phone 028 21277 www.westcorkhotel.com West Fork magazine
9
, It s hot in CASEY’S BAR UNION HALL Under New Management
Open All Day
Amazing Food Served Daily Selected Wine List
Reasonably Priced / By The Glass or Bottle
Accommodation Selection of Bewley’s Coffee and Teas Served Daily
Helen Carroll
Homemade Deserts, Scones and Afternoon Tea Available
Casey’s Bar and Restaurant, Union Hall
Book Now for your
Helen Carroll is the head chef at the family-run Casey’s Bar and Restaurant in Union Hall, West Cork. The popular establishment specialises in locally-sourced fresh seafood. The prawns arrive alive from the local fishing boats that land on Union Hall pier and the fresh fish is delivered to the restaurant daily. Diners may eat in, or enjoy their food al fresco (when the weather permits) in the attractive garden area which overlooks the inner harbour.
Christmas Party
with a Complimentary Glass of Mulled Wine or Snowball on arrival
SATURDAY NOV 29th, 9.30pm THE MEERKATS Live Rock & Pop Check our facebook for all forthcoming events
Phone: 028 33590 Mob: 087 7038735 Web: www.caseysofunionhall.ie Chef: Helen Carroll
10 West Fork magazine
Q What do you think has been the most important factor in the success of your business? A Being extremely privileged at having the availability of fresh local seafood, top-quality meats and seasonal fruit and vegetables on our doorstep with the ability Cooking is a journey, to create delectable dishes take nothing for granted from them.
Q How did you get into the food and restaurant business? A I come from generations (back to my great grandmother) of family bakers, pastry-makers and confectioners. It’s been a passion since the age of four when I started cooking.
Q What influences your choice of menus? A A deep appreciaand stay passionate’ Q What advice would tion for the quality you give to any young, of local produce and aspiring chefs reading this? our local trawlers and fishermen, which A Appreciate the skills you have. inspires me to cook and serve simply. Cooking is a journey, take nothing for granted and stay passionate. Tell us about your style of cooking: Irish and Mediterranean. Q Name some celebrities who have eaten at your restaurant? Q Have you seen any changes in A Michael McElhatton, Eilish O’Carroll, customers’ tastes and eating habits Eddie Hobbs, Frances Tulk-Hart, Barover the oness Margaret Jay. years? A Yes, people’s tastes have got more adQ What do you think about the venturous and special dietary requirefuture? ments are now more apparent. A It’s exciting and bright.
the kitchen!
Lee Kennedy Blue Haven Hotel, Kinsale Head chef at the Blue Haven Hotel is Lee Kennedy, who is continuing to enhance its reputation for excellent food, friendly personal service and meticulous attention to detail. The charming old world boutique hotel, situated in the heart of Kinsale, is one of Ireland’s best known hotels and graciously combines the charm of yesteryear with the comforts of today.
Q How did you get into the food and restaurant business? A Catering has always run deep within our family with my parents and grandparents owning pubs and restaurants, so naturally I followed suit. Q What influences your choice of menus? A The seasons and local produce. Here in Ireland, and especially in Cork, we have some really amazing food producers. I often go on a food pilgrimage and visit local artisan food producers just to see how they do what they do.
won me the award of Most Innovative Chef at the 2014 Kinsale Gourmet Festival this autumn.
Q What do you think has been the most important factor in the success of your business? A Being consistent and building a team that can continually perform. This, combined with great produce at affordable prices. Q What advice would you give to
any young, aspiring chefs reading this? A Listen, look and learn … never stop learning and, if you have stopped Q Tell us about your style of cooklearning in your current kitchen, move ing: A It’s a real mix, as I’ve ‘I often go on a food on and start learning again. It’s a big old world picked up a lot of difout there and people ferent skills and styles pilgrimage and visit local artisan food pro- always need to eat. on my travels, but I always come back to ducers just to see how real hearty dishes with they do what they do’ Q Celebrities who have eaten at your restaua touch of finesse and rant? a modern twist. A Karl Henry, Michael Flatley, Yasmin Le Bon, Dave Fanning, Rasher, Jason Q Have you seen any changes in Byrne, PJ Gallagher, Neil Delamere, customers’ tastes and eating habits Jenny Greene, Patrick Bergin. over the years? A Generally there is a higher expectaQ What do you think about the tion from customers these days with future? media and celebrity chefs keeping A The future is looking very good for people more informed. I find that the us here at the Blue Haven. Every year general public are much more knowlwe strive to improve our offering and edgeable and I also find customers are keep key focus on our customers, so more daring and will try new things, watch this space to see what we have like my shrimp cocktail ice cream that planned for 2015.
Fantastic Christmas Party Packages at Blue Haven Kinsale from €25pp To book call 021-4772209 or Visit www.bluehavenkinsale.com
West Fork magazine
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Paul’s pies please! Paul Phillips and his team (from left to right) Yann Delalande, Geraldine Delaney, Eleanor O’Driscoll and Kym Leahy, getting ready for the start of another busy week at West Cork Pies.
Paul and Anne ‘retired’ to tasty new business WITH laconic style and self-depreciating humour, Paul Phillips explained at the West Fork Business Breakfast during A Taste of West Cork Food Festival how he and his wife, Anne, are finding ‘retirement’ in West Cork, a place that has allowed them to develop a tasty new business, West Cork Pies, writes Jackie Keogh.
I’d like to say a big thank you to all my customers for their support throughout 2014. For those yet to be customers you can find the market stalls at Bantry, Skibbereen, Clonakilty, Schull, Mahon Point & Douglas Farmer’s markets and a selection of the full range of products in Supervalu’s and other good food stores across Co. Cork, just look out for the distinctive red & white packaging and the West Cork Pies logo. Paul Phillips
www.westcorkpies.com 087 359 3905
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showcase for their products. ‘I cannot over-estimate the value of these markets as a way of testing new products and getting direct customer feedback,’ said Paul, whose business quickly came to the attention of Musgrave, the biggest retailer in Ireland. Having been selected to take part in the Local Enterprise Office’s Food Academy initiative, West Cork Pies was chosen They were joined on the platform by for a three-month trial, which means Susan and Tom Fehily from Wild Berry that the company’s range of products Bakery, who have also produced a qualis being stocked in 25 retail outlets, ity product – gluten-free confectionery including SuperValu. that actually tastes good, delicious The growth of the company took even – but shared the the Phillips family by Cooking is a very direct surprise and within a same teething problems as West Cork Pies: way of doing something few short months they cash flow and finding a that they would that brings pleasure to realised suitably-sized premises need a purpose-built me and to others for their enterprise. premises. Even with a successful ‘We were fortunate to career as a banker and lawyer, Paul Phil- secure an empty 100 square metre unit lips always knew that life in London was in Ardmanagh in Schull from Cork ‘by accident rather than design’ and that County Council in July of 2013, but by they, as a family, would one day relocate the summer of 2014 we had, in terms of to Ireland. production, outgrown the premises. ‘Anne and I knew we didn’t want to be ‘We are now actively looking for more stuck in the rat race in London for the space,’ said Paul, who is determined to rest of our lives, so a plan was hatched keep the business in Schull because the to move here,’ said Paul, who relocated six jobs that West Cork Pies provides to Schull in August 2012. are important to the community. People at the business breakfast heard ‘It would be of tremendous benefit Paul say that pork pies was one of the if the development agencies would things he would miss about the UK, so recognise the potential of West Cork’s when they found themselves living in smaller towns and villages to facilitate rural West Cork – a place full of artisan emerging food businesses,’ he said. producers – he started making meat ‘Another problem that a lot of small pies. businesses have to contend with,’ he ‘Initially, it was a way of keeping myself added, ‘is working capital because deoccupied, but I was conscious of wantspite all the stuff you read in the papers ing to do something that would be of I don’t think the banks – especially here direct social value,’ said Paul. ‘Cooking in rural communities – are supporting is a very direct way of doing something micro businesses. that brings pleasure to me and to oth‘There is just no appetite for them to ers, so the idea of creating a small food lend to anybody: There is a big disconbusiness took root.’ nect between the people who work in Paul’s legal background helped no end the banks here, and the customers that with understanding all the food regulathey know, and the people in Dublin tions with which he had to comply, who are telling the people down here in and he found the various food marthe banks what they can and can’t do.’ kets throughout West Cork a godsend That’s saying a lot coming from a former because they were the best possible banker!
Artisans reign supreme Steeles’ resolve sees them thrive as cheesemakers A Sussex-born philosophy lecturer at Trinity and a philosophy and logic student from Dublin went from being self-sufficiency survivalists in Allihies to cheese royalty, writes Jackie Keogh
THE community of Eyeries came tofect context. Tim said the cheesemakgether in celebration recently to honour ers are ‘two of the most intelligent and Veronica and Norman Steele who quirky individuals I have come across have, for the last 40 years or so, not just in a lifetime spent amongst head-thesurvived in the cheesemaking business, balls.’ but thrived. He first met Norman in 1967 in the Milleens was the first Irish cheese to environs of Trinity where he was already come to national and then international prominent as an expert on the phiprominence – it was, in fact, named losopher Wittgenstein – a career that Supreme Champion at the British predated his switch to pig farmer and Cheese Awards – and it all developed then cheesemaker. out of a modest means of dealing with While Norman became ‘a guru-like leftovers. figure’ to Tim, the artist soon discovered Veronica explained that the milk that Veronica was – and still is – ‘the produced by their one and only cow, wittiest person I have ever met.’ Brisket, was too much for their daily Amounting for more than the sum of requirements so they started making their parts, Tim paid tribute to ‘Norcheese, but even then there was a surfeit man’s vermouth dry humour and so they began selling it locally. Veronica’s wildly surreal slant on life’ Their first commercial customer, Annie and their ‘love of words and abstruse Goulding of the Blue knowledge.’ Norman and Veronica Tim was there at the Bull in Sneem, helped put Milleens Cheese on were to call that happy start and helped Northe map because visitors ‘cowshed home for man with a dig-out, to her restaurant – literally! eight years including the country’s About a foot of manure finest chefs and food was taken from the floor pioneers – tasted it and wanted it for of a cottage that had been used as a their restaurants too. cowshed in Allihies. Norman and VeThat is the beginning of an explanaronica were to call that happy ‘cowshed’ tion of how a couple – a Sussex-born home for eight years before relocating philosophy lecturer at Trinity and a phi- to Milleens in Eyeries. losophy and logic student from Dublin That was the start of it all: Norman be– went from being self-sufficiency gan dairy farming whilst Veronica cresurvivalists in Allihies to cheese royalty. ated the eponymous, delicious and not Without question they are held in very to mention aromatic Milleens Cheese. high regard: as cheese producers, as free As partners in crime, the couple travthinkers, as friends and as neighbours. elled extensively selling their rarefied That is why Jim O’Sullivan of Beara product, yet still managed to raise a Tourism with the help of Sue Boothfamily of four wonderful and equally Forbes of Anam Cara Writers’ and Artexceptional children: Susan, Jenny, Kate ists’ Retreat, and a whole host of others, and Quinlan. came together to organise a community In January 2013, Veronica was diagnosed celebration in their honour. with Multiple System Atrophy, which It was also a celebration of locally procauses parts of her body to shut down, duced food as every artisan producer in but leaves her as mentally sharp as ever. the region, as well as its many talented Even in the face of such adversity, Tim home bakers, turned up at Anam Cara Goulding said: ‘She remains a beacon with an offering – all of which made for for me and many others of how to deal a banquet. with debilitating illness.’ One of Veronica and Norman’s grandIn conclusion, the artist summed up children did the honours and presented Norman and Veronica quite well: ‘In them with one of Cormac Boydell’s the UK,’ he said, ‘they might be classiunique handformed ceramics and the fied as bonkers, but here we call them witty words of Tim Goulding, a local characters.’ artist and long time friend, offered per-
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14 West Fork magazine
Winter lunchboxes
Change of season a great time to change a habit DECIDING what to put in a child’s lunch box on a daily basis, is often one of the biggest challenges a parent faces during the school term. Busy mum Cammy Harley shares some of her favourite tips.
To introduce children to whole-wheat bread instead of white, start gradually by using one slice of each, and call it a ‘zebra sandwich’; not only will it add colour and appeal, but will be a small step in a healthier direction. When making school lunches, try and Not only are families pressed for time in make the most of your own leftovers. the morning but trying to find someFor example, leftover chicken mixed thing that is varied, nutritious and apwith mayonnaise and corn makes a far pealing to children can be daunting. healthier option as a sandwich filling It is very easy to fall into a rut of conthan luncheon meat would. venient and processed foods, which Or, go for chick-on-a-stick and thread can be thrown together in a couple of pieces of chicken onto a kebab stick minutes. Eating the same sandwich with some chopped peppers and veg. If for five days in a row can be boring and you have leftover mince from spaghetti habit-forming. If you and your children bolognese, simply add some shredded have fallen into this habit, or if you have lettuce and grated cheese and put it in a picky eaters, like most households do, wrap to make a terrific burrito. it helps to bear in mind For the ultimate in a Surprise your child by nutritionally balanced that a change of season is often a great time to lunchbox, a protein, a making cute and make a change of habit. appealingly-shaped good fat, carbohydrates Think outside the box – as well as fresh food and it is also worth consider- sandwiches using cookie a drink is needed. Eggs, cutters ing breaking the habit grilled chicken strips of sending lunch in a and baked fish cakes are lunchbox only. Consider the benefits good examples of protein. of a Thermos food container which can Fats can come from a portion of either keep noodles or a pasta bake warm until yoghurt, cheese or a smoothie. Wholelunch time. wheat rolls, pasta and rice salad are all A flask with homemade soup is also carbohydrates which will help keep well received on a cold day and a butenergy and concentration levels up for tered bread roll can be taken as an longer. accompaniment and will also provide Children love snacks and dips and it extra fibre. As a treat on a cold day, is easy to put in a handful of raisins, a flask of hot chocolate along with a grapes, cherry tomatoes and carrot baked flapjack or peanut butter cookie sticks along with a small dip or sachet would be welcome. of their favourite sauce. Pumpkin, Look for a recipe that can be baked in sunflower and sesame seeds are a great advance and frozen as necessary so that way of sustaining children during a cold the children can get involved with the morning at school. preparation over a weekend. Hard-boiled eggs and plump corn fritFor a winter theme, surprise your child ters are filling as well as fuelling and by making cute and appealingly-shaped coupled with some pasta or pitta bread sandwiches using Christmas cookie cut- make a balanced snack that is also easy ters to shape the bread into snowmen, to eat in the short time allocated during reindeer, Christmas trees or snowflakes. lunch break.
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West Fork magazine
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A vegetarian for
Christmas dinner So, you’re expecting a vegetarian at your dinner table over the holidays. Maybe your son is bringing home the meat-hating Mancunian he met at Glastonbury, or your daughter is going to show up with her new Greenpeace t-shirt-wearing UCC flatmate? Maybe your own significant other has decided to take a break from the carnivore life and go veggie, or maybe the whole family is going to take the plunge? Whatever the reason, the first thing to remember, says Siobhán Cronin, is: Don’t Panic.
U
s turkey-abstainers are not the two-headed aliens that many would have you believe. If one big meal, or even a week of sourcing flesh-free grub, sounds like a recipe for seasonal disaster, then you’re just making a mountain out of a meat-free molehill. I first went veggie in 1984, when it seemed every secondary school student in Cork was opting to spend afternoons quoting poetry and Smiths lyrics in the increasingly cool, recently-opened veggie Quay Co-op restaurant. But while most of my contemporaries eventually returned to their steak-loving ways, I found the life of the bean-loving Quorn addict was more my style. Now, 30 Christmasses later, I have left very few Irish mammies traumatised by my demands, and have found a whole cohort of veggies to swap yuletide recipes with. Not that I’ve ever cooked a Christmas dinner myself, of course. The idea of plucking a feathery bird or dealing with ‘giblets’ or ‘gizzards’ is enough to make me go running to the nearest Marks & Spencer shouting ‘nut roast’ at the top of my voice. Indeed, running to M&S was, in fact, the only option for veggies at Christmas, for many of those 30 years. One of my neighbours in Blackrock used to take orders from the lentil lovers on our road each Christmas, and book our nut roasts in advance, to be collected at the supermarket on Christmas Eve. This was the perfect solution for my mum, and later my mum-in-law, when the annual ‘what will we give the veggie
16 West Fork magazine
this year?’ debate began in November. options to satisfy my tastebuds. But in more recent times, the options are So, if you find yourself transfixed much more varied, thankfully. by the ‘what to give the veggie’ If you have a veggie at your table this year, conundrum – check if fish is an one of the most important questions to option. If it is, a prime cut of find out is – ‘just how veggie are they?’ salmon, baked in herbs and Some veggies, myself included, have been butter, is usually a welcome forced – mostly by the narrow selection treat. of food on offer in rural Ireland in times Or monkfish, lightly fried in past – to broaden the definition of our breadcrumbs – what could be ‘vegetarianism’. simpler? Where once not a morsel of any type If fish is definitely off the of flesh would pass my superior lips, a menu, then rustle up a sojourn in County Longford for several veg-laden stew, and call it a years soon ended by delusions of gourmet goulash! Serve it with delicious grandeur. rice, or a small portion to acOn one occasion I enquired, at a wellcompany whatever you are having known local hotel, why yourself. my turnips-and-mash Why not try your own ver... one of the most lunch was priced the important questions to sion of the aforementioned same as the steak dinnutroast – delicious with find out is ‘just how accompanying cranberry ner equivalent. ‘We veggie are they?’ have only one button sauce. You can even have for lunch,’ the nonea few trial-and-error runs, too-impressed cashier told me. because it can be frozen a few days beI have a cousin who still insists on putting fore, and simply re-heated on Christmas rashers on my plate at breakfast, with the morning. bizarre comment: ‘Sure they’re only small There are few vegetarians who would turn bits of meat’ – as if there was a magical up their noses at peppers stuffed with rice size of acceptable flesh, under which the and herbs, or mushrooms coated with a rules of veggie-dom can be ignored. flavoursome cheesy veg mix. As a result, in the mid-nineties I relaxed Or another very easy option is a spinach my demands, and added the odd fish and goat’s cheese pastry roll, which again to my diet, convincing myself it was for can be prepared in advance. Ask your medical (ie protein) reasons, and not guest for their favourite vegetable and beause I was just worn down by the lack incorporate it into your own dinner plan. of imagination in Irish restaurants. Google ‘vegetarian Christmas’ and you But the late 90s and noughties brought won’t be short of ideas – or recipes. a change in Irish food tastes – as Indian, It’s important to remember that this Thai, Moroccan and Turkish menus aris still Christmas Dinner, so the veggie rived, providing several wonderful veggie doesn’t want to be seen as the leper at
the table, looking for an entirely different spread. Simply replace the main meat option with something simple, but wholesome, and include them in the rest of the meal. Most veggies love – em, wait for it – vegetables, so the idea of sprouts, turnips, carrots, peas or whatever other side dishes you have planned for yourself, will probably be even more delightful to them. And potatoes? An Irish vegetarian’s dream! Roast, mashed or chipped, load them on our plates! And if you don’t want the hassle of cooking something extra, be assured that West Cork has some of the best homegrown veggie food available in the country. From West Cork Pies, to Bantry’s Organico restaurant, chickpea rolls from Kalbo’s in Skibbereen or a vegetable tajine from the Lettercollum Kitchen Project in Clonakilty, and practically every farmer’s market in the area, you won’t be short of ideas for a veggie Christmas.
Spotlight on ...
Bantry
From O’Connor’s Seafood Restaurant in Wolfe Tone Square and The Fish Kitchen in the town centre, to the fine emporium that is Manning’s, Bantry is a diner’s delight. Bantry is, of course, known throughout the world for its production of mussels and visitors are frequently drawn to the town to try the seafood taken fresh from the ocean that day. Bantry also boasts one of Ireland’s oldest country markets – one that attracts a variety of vendors but also the region’s best artisan producers. Like the Drimoleague-based business, Glenilen – which started as a fledgling business at Bantry Market – Bantry woman Mella McAuley also got a great reaction when she started selling Mella’s Fudge at her local market. Discerning shoppers have also been drawn to Bantry as a place where they can purchase specialist salads, as well as local fruit and vegetables, and whilst in town they often take time out to sample some of the excellent seafood tapas at Trawl and Trend. The Stuffed Olive is another local café that has a very good reputation for its delicious mains, side dishes and confection confectionary – all of which can be found in the café’s new cookbook. Another great restaurant that has really stood the test of time is the Brick Oven with its wood-fired brick oven.
Maritime Hotel Adrian Biffen, Head Chef at the Maritime Hotel’s stylish Ocean Restaurant, says a menu focused on local ingredients and a world of flavours is a big hit with the 4-star hotel’s international visitors. ‘When visitors are exploring the Wild Atlantic Way’, explains Adrian, ‘it’s our role to give them a flavour of West Cork, and a chance for them to taste fantastic local produce.’ The Maritime’s vibrant menu includes specialist cheeses like Durrus, Gubbeen, and Carbery, fresh seafood, grass-fed meat from local suppliers, and artisan breads baked in-house. ‘We put the place on their plate,’ says Adrian, ‘and it never fails to impress.’
Manning’s Emporium Manning’s Emporium’s Christmas hampers are once again flying off the shelves as the Christmas season approaches. The family-run deli in Balllylickey, just outside Bantry, has evolved over 70 years from a post office and convenience store to what it is today, a gourmet shop renowned for its high quality local produce, fine wines and excellent service. The hampers include local specialities like Durrus and Gubbeen cheese, Mella’s Fudge and Lorge chocolates, and come in a range of sizes. ‘They’re popular with people across the UK and Ireland who love a little taste of West Cork as part of their family celebrations’, says Laura Manning. And they don’t always have to go abroad, either. Why not treat yourself – and your Christmas visitors – to this fine selection of local artisan delights.
Andrew Heath, Laura Manning, Val Manning at the Emporium
West Fork magazine
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Café Organico
Rachel & Hannah Dare at Organico
One of Bantry’s best-loved cafés got a major makeover this year as Organico moved operations downstairs to create a modern and stylish café on the Glengarriff Road. The Dare family’s trademark vegetarian salads, using local and organic ingredients, taste even better in their new setting. ‘It’s taken a lot of hard work and planning,’ says Hannah Dare, ‘but it’s fantastic to see old and new customers enjoying the space we’ve created.’ ‘Bantry has been buzzing this year, and we take great pride in giving visitors and locals a flavour of the wonderful produce our stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way has to offer.’
Durrus Cheese
Durrus Cheese, produced in the valley of Coomkeen on the Sheep’s Head peninsula, has been chosen by Rachel Allen to star in her new sandwich range for O’Brien’s sandwich bars. Rachel’s sandwich features the Durrus in a sourdough cheese toastie with plum chutney, and it’s proving to be a great hit across the 100 Irish stores in the O’Brien chain. ‘It’s wonderful to see a genuine farmhouse cheese like ours being promoted in this way,’ says Jeffa Gill, who founded Durrus Cheese in the late 1970s in her farmhouse kitchen. ‘And we’re very happy to be flying the flag for West Cork artisan produce.’
Jeffa Gill at the Durrus Dairy
Raising Bantry’s profile as a good food destination
Glenilen Farm
BANTRY’S growing reputation for producing good food locally is something that the Bantry Development and Tourism Association is keen to promote. ‘We live this experience every day with our restaurants, hotels and cafés serving the very best fresh local food, but we believe it is time to raise Bantry’s profile in that regard,’ said Eileen O’Shea, the association’s secretary. ‘Here,’ she said, ‘you can enjoy delicious Bantry Bay Mussels, organic Murphy’s salmon, Bantry Bay crab, lobsters and prawns, all from the clean waters of Bantry Bay. ‘Our local bars feature extensive menus that offer
Fans of Glenilen Farm’s lovely yoghurts will be delighted to hear that Glenilen has launched a low-fat range of yoghurt pots. The 1% fat yoghurts are made from the delicious milk that has made the Drimoleague dairy a household name. The range is available in strawberry, blueberry, rhubarb and natural flavours. ‘We are really excited about Glenilen Farm Light,’ says Valerie Kingston, (right, with husband Alan), co-owner of Glenilen Farm. ‘Customers have been asking for a low fat option for some time now, and we are delighted to be able to deliver a range that still retains our authentic farmhouse taste with lower fat and less sugar.’
18 West Fork magazine
great value to locals and visitors alike. And, from farm to fork, people can be assured that the locally raised beef, lamb, pork and chicken is of the highest quality.’ A number of events, supported and promoted by Bantry Development and Tourism Association, are held each year to raise the profile of the town and make it an even more popular tourism destination, including the annual New Year’s Eve Family Gathering and Fireworks display. Conveniently located between the Beara and Sheep’s Head Peninsula, Bantry is ideally placed to operate as a hub for both the Beara Way and the award-winning Sheep’s Head Way, both of which have some of the finest walking tracks in Ireland, and Whiddy Island, with its regular ferry service from Bantry Pier, also has a great deal to offer.
Alan & Valerie Kingston
Spotlight on ...
SHeeP’S Head The Old Creamery
The Sheep’s Head Peninsula has developed a foodie reputation in recent times owing to the opening of new restaurants like The Gateway in Durrus and The Old Creamery in Kilcrohane, joining favourites like Arundel’s By The Pier and The Sheep’s Head Inn The Sheep’s Head Producers’ Market and Shop is a great place to pick up fresh local produce and the fact that it is open seven days a week has made it – as well as The Cupán Tae near the tip of the peninsula – a perfect destination for visitors and day trippers. The profusion of local produce – from Durrus Cheese and fresh eggs to new foods made from seaweed products, as well as homemade jams and chutneys – are also featured in the menus and dishes prepared by Carmel Somers at her nationally-renowned restaurant, Good Things Café, in Durrus. And then there is Blairscove House and Restaurant: What can be said about Blairscove except that this fine dining establishment has had a stellar reputation ever since it was established in the early ’80s.
Sheep’s Head Producers
A family team has brought a new lease of life to The Old Creamery in Kilcrohane which re-opened as a stylish café and restaurant this summer. ‘Now, when larger groups come to walk the Sheep’s Head Way, they can call in together for lunch afterwards, or even enjoy an evening meal in the restaurant’, says Eleanor O’Donovan. Alongside Mary Ann O’Donovan and their team, Eleanor is responsible for the delicious menu which features the best local ingredients. ‘We’ve got off to a brilliant start with great support from the local community,’ says Mary Ann, ‘and we’re really looking forward to an exciting 2015.’
The renovation of the old creamery on the Sheep’s Head peninsula has created a new home for the Sheep’s Head Producers, a collective that sells artisan food and crafts at the creamery, and at a seasonal Sunday market in Kilcrohane. ‘It’s wonderful for our visitors to meet local food producers and discover our passion for things that are home-grown in our gardens, and hand-made in our kitchens,’ explains Caroline Crowley who makes traditional granola bars with seaweed for the shop. ‘Slow food and well-made crafts reflect the unique character of this place, and it’s great to make them available to people here in the heart of the village.’ Caroline Crowley
Eleanor O’Donovan and Mary Ann O’Donovan
Blairscove House & Restaurant The team at Blairscove House & Restaurant in Durrus is celebrating after winning the prestigious Georgina Campbell award for Outstanding Guest Experience 2015. The family-run waterside restaurant won praise as a ‘truly outstanding example of the best of Irish food and hospitality’. ‘We have been in business for 33 years’, says Sabine De Mey ,who established the business with her husband Philippe in the early 80s, ‘and it was quite unexpected and very humbling to win the award.’ ‘We are very proud of our small team and amazing family who have all worked so hard and put in such great efforts.’
From left: Chris Woodward, Ronald Klotzer (head chef) and Christophe Zilliox
Xmas mail order nationally and UK , contact dairy
Durrus Cheese Handmade in Coomkeen since 1979 027 61100 • www.durruscheese.com
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The Good Things Café The Good Things Café in Durrus which overlooks Dunmanus Bay is renowned as a great place to eat, but it’s also home to chef Carmel Somers’ very successful cookery school. Carmel shares her passion for local and organic ingredients with visitors who choose from a varied menu of courses covering everything from breadmaking, vegetarian food, and seaweed cookery, to the intriguing ’Dozen Quickies in a Day.’ Whatever the subject of each course, the emphasis is on personal tuition and firstclass ingredients. ‘We attract a very friendly, cheerful class of attendee,’ says Carmel, ‘and send them home with a stack of new recipes to try for themselves.’
Carmel Somers at Bantry Market
A new guide to ‘Eating the Sheep’s Head Way’ showcases all the foodie treats on offer along the famous walking route. ‘We have such a rich food culture here,’ says the guide’s author, Siobhán Burke, ‘and we wanted to help people discover hidden gems. The guide introduces people to our local markets, and local producers, as well as to the best cafés and restaurants.’ ‘When people pick up the guide, they’ll get a real insight into the small, often family-run, businesses along the Sheep’s Head Way, and the pleasure they take in dishing up food that’s local, fresh and exciting.’
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A special time of year Party is year’s highlight at the Skibbereen Day Care Centre PEOPLE attending Skibbereen Day Care Centre have come to expect that Christmas always comes a little early, but they wouldn’t have it any other way because their annual Christmas party – which, this year, takes place on Thursday, December 4th at the West Cork Hotel – is possibly the highlight of the year. Mary Willis, the day care coordinator at Skibbereen Day Care Centre, said the Christmas party is always eagerly anticipated because the staff at the West Cork Hotel go out of their way to make it memorable. ‘It is always an action packed day with music and entertainment throughout,’ she said, ‘but everyone looks forward to the four-course Christmas lunch with all the trimmings, and time spent with friends. ‘On that occasion, we are usu-
ally joined by the public health nurses and our managers at the HSE. We also invite all our volunteers because they are terrific. They help us out on a weekly basis and give so freely of their time. ‘December 8th is another special day for us,’ said Mary. ‘It is one more opportunity to have another Christmas lunch with all the trimmings, such as plum pudding and Christmas crackers. ‘There will also be plenty of carol singing right throughout the month, as well as a wonderful afternoon of singing with Myross Choir. The students of Rossa College also do a star turn, which is very much appreciated. ‘Another highlight of the centre’s year-long programme of events,’ she said, ‘is the annual ecumenical service, which is followed by more tasty bites, as well as ceol agus craic.’
Celebrating life and social inclusion at Skibbereen Luncheon Club ‘CHRISTMAS is one of our favourite times of year at the Skibbereen Luncheon Club,’ according to Áine Minihane, ‘because it incorporates the ethos we strive to achieve all year round. It’s all about celebrating life and social inclusion.’ Áine, who is the recreation facilitator at the luncheon club, said: ‘It is important that we have a sense of belonging in the community in which we live in, so when it comes to celebrating Christmas we always go that extra mile. ‘This year, we will start our celebrations with our festive coffee morning on Friday, December 5th. It is an occasion that is open to everyone in the community to attend. ‘On Tuesday, December 9th, we
will be having a Christmas flower decorating demonstration at the luncheon club at Market Street and on Friday, December 12th the children from the Gaelscoil have kindly agreed to come and sing us a few Christmas carols. ‘But our actual Christmas party won’t take place until Friday, December 19th and this year we believe it will be better than ever – not to be missed! It’s always been a success because of the high quality of the food and the way that food is presented, but also because everyone is inclined to join in a bit of dancing. ‘There are still places,’ said Áine. ‘Call 028 22269 for more details about the Christmas celebrations, or our regular Tuesdays and Fridays luncheon club from 11am until 3pm.’ Mary O’Connor, Dan Moriarty and Joan Twomey getting ready for the festive season at the Luncheon Club in Skibbereen. (Photo: Anne Minihane)
West Fork magazine
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Nanny Anne and friends from the ICA
k l a t s ’ t e L
Kitty Tobin from Corran, Leap (originally from Caheragh) has six children and nine grandchildren. This very active lady has been a member of the Leap Guild of the Irish Countrywomen’s Association for just under seven years Kitty is one of those unsung heroes who has spent her life looking after family and neighbours, but will never make a song and dance about it. She is in her second term of office in the Kilmacabea Parish Assembly and is involved with helping senior citizens in the community. She brings with her a skilled knowledge, passed down to her from her own mother who kept turkeys in the homeplace in Caheragh.When growing up, Kitty learnt from an early age how to look after the turkeys. She remembers being sent out to the fields to collect nettles to feed them when they were young, and then when the birds were old enough they would be let out to mature and grow. Truly free ranging, the sunshine and ability to roam helped the turkeys to develop and fatten well in time for Christmas.
U RD P I U H H
W W . L H Q MR S D V KR P
U G V U E L \ D Q G KH V H U K Q J W KH I \ L KH U W X U H V D W H D S H Q H D U /
Kitty’s hints to get the best from your turkey this year 1
Free-range organic is best, although it must be ordered well ahead. When choosing any fresh turkey, look for a broad-breasted bird which will give a high proportion of tender white meat. A flare of white up either side of the breast is a good sign, as this thin layer of fat will keep it moist
2 3
Wash the turkey well, inside and out
As a rough rule of thumb, allow about 1lb/450g per person when calculating the size of an oven-ready turkey to buy – eg a medium bird about 12-14lb/5-6kg will be enough for 12-14 people. It is nice to have some leftovers for the next day, but remember that ham and/or other trimmings will also be filling, so don’t get an unnecessarily large turkey. Ask your butcher to give you the neck and giblets. Remove from the body cavity before stuffing, and use to make stock for a good gravy
4
It is important to take the turkey out of the fridge last thing on Christmas Eve to allow it to come to room temperature so that it heats up immediately when you
22 West Fork magazine
put it in the oven. The same applies to the stuffing (you can make this on Christmas Eve, ahead of time), and you also need to remove the 6oz (175g) of butter to soften, ready for the morning.
5
Do not pack the stuffing too tightly, and weigh the turkey after stuffing, in order to calculate the cooking time correctly. Allow 15-20 minutes per pound/450g (allow 10-15 minutes per pound for turkeys weighing over 16lb). For a traditional roast, spread the turkey with soft butter, cover with bacon rashers and buttered paper. If using foil, remember that – like overloading the oven and frequently opening the door - close wrapping may slow down the cooking. Using a meat thermometer, the bird is cooked when a temperature of 190ºF, 90ºC is reached.
6
Allow the roast turkey to stand for at least 15 minutes before carving, so that the juices can settle and it will slice better. As long as the skin is not pierced, it will hold in the heat.
! y e k r u kt
The Christmas Day regime! On the morning of cooking, pre-heat the oven to gas mark 7, 425°F (220°C) then stuff the turkey.Loosen the skin with your hands and pack the stuffing into the neck end, pushing it up between the flesh and the skin towards the breast (though not too tightly because it will expand during the cooking). Press it in gently to make a rounded end, then tuck the neck flap under the bird’s back and secure with a small skewer. Don’t expect to get all the stuffing in this end – put the rest into the body cavity. Lay the turkey on its back in the centre, then rub it generously all over with the butter, making sure the thighbones are particularly well covered. Next, season the bird all over with salt and pepper, and lay the bacon over the breast with the rashers overlapping each other. You can put some over the legs as well. Place the turkey in a roasting tin and cover with tinfoil (not too tightly). Then put the tin on a low shelf in the oven and cook at the initial high temperature for 40 minutes. After that, lower the heat to gas mark 3, 325°F (170°C) and cook for a further 3 hours for a 12lb bird (around 5.5kg), or 3½ hours for a 14lb bird (around 6.3kg). Then tear the foil away and remove the bacon slices to allow the skin to brown and crisp. Turn the heat up to gas mark 6, 400°F (200°C) and cook the turkey for a further 30 minutes. The turkey will need frequent basting during this time, so the whole operation will probably take nearer 40-45 minutes. To test if the bird is cooked, pierce the thickest part of the leg with a thin skewer: the juices running out of it should be golden and clear. And the same applies to any part of the bird tested – there should be no trace of pinkness in the juices. You can also give the leg a little tug, to make sure there is some give in it. Then remove it from the roasting tin and transfer it to a warm carving dish. If you can, tip the turkey to let the excess juice run out. Leave the turkey in a warmish place for 30-60 minutes to ‘relax’ before carving: provided it’s not in a draught, it will stay hot for that length of time. Meanwhile, to make the gravy, tip all the fat and juices into the roasting tin. Spoon off all the fat from the juice in a corner of the tin, then work the flour into the remaining juices over a low heat.
Kitty Tobin a member of Leap ICA How to make stuffing
To make the giblet stock,
Ingredients
Ingredients
2lb (900g) good quality pork sausage meat 1 heaped dessertspoon dried sage 1 large onion finely chopped 4 heaped tablespoons of white breadcrumbs 1 egg, beaten (optional) Salt & Pepper
Turkey Giblets, including neck and liver 1 onion, sliced in half 1 carrot, sliced in half lengthways A few parsley stalks 1 celery stalk I bay leaf Salt & Pepper
Combine the breadcrumbs with the onion and sage in a large mixing bowl, then stir in a little boiling water and mix thoroughly.
First wash the giblets and put them in a saucepan with the halved onion, then cover with 1½ pints (900 ml) water and bring up to simmering point.
Next, work the sausage meat or minced pork and egg, if using, into this mixture and season with salt and pepper. Leave the stuffing covered in a cool place – but not in the fridge, as it shouldn’t be too cold when you come to stuff the turkey.
After removing any surface scum with a slotted spoon, add the remaining ingredients, half cover the pan with a lid and simmer for 1½-2 hours. Then strain the stock and store, covered, in the fridge. I always think that it’s when the giblet stock is simmering that you get the first fragrant aromas of Christmas lunch, which fill you with the pleasure of anticipation!
Now, using a balloon whisk, whisk in the giblet stock, bit by bit, until you have a smooth gravy. Let it bubble and reduce a little to concentrate the flavour, and taste and season with salt and pepper.
Happy Christmas!
Eugene & Helen Hickey
Skeaghanore, Ballydehob, West Cork
Visit www.skeaghanoreduck.ie for recipes and more
T: 028 37428 West Fork magazine
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The taming of the
wild spirit
EVERYONE in Ireland has a story of Poitín. Whether it is a memory of it being kept on a high shelf for medicinal and cleaning purposes, to losing a weekend of one’s life after a few sips of the spirit, Poitín has touched all our lives in one way or another. It has always controversially surfaced in cities as gifts from rural cousins and has packed a punch at many events, from weddings to wakes. Poitín, which comes from the Gaelic word ‘Pota’, referring to the small copper pot used to distil it, also had the notorious reputation for causing blindness and insanity if drunk in large quantities. Poitín has always been the black sheep of Irish spirits but is now making a full and deserved comeback after a law was passed in 1997 to legalise it. There are many people who do not yet know that the drink is legally available and a small handful of distilleries in Ireland are now producing Poitín under licence. Gone are the days of the potent 90%-proof moonshine home brew which
could have been likened to paint-stripper. Poitín has now been tamed to a 40% proof, in line with gin and vodka. In 2008, Poitín was granted Geographical Indicative Status, meaning that it is recognised as an exclusive product of Ireland. John O’Connell of West Cork Distillers in Skibbereen is one of the few national distillers who produce Poitín for the market. ‘Our Two Trees label of Poitin is a smooth, warm blend of spirit with a floral and fruity flavour,’ says John. ‘It is the original Irish spirit and we produce it using age-old techniques and the finest local ingredients.’ In 2008, John and his lifelong friends, Denis and Ger, founded West Cork Distillers in the quiet village of Union Hall. John says that after school Denis and Ger went into the fishing industry. ‘I worked for several food companies such as Unilever and the Kerry Group. But there came a point when the three of us wished for a change of direc-
tion and we decided to start a distillery. It was a lifelong dream for us and we believe that enjoying a drink with good friends is an old and timeless experience.’ The three friends enlisted the help of experts in the field of distilling and blending, such as Dr Barry Walsh, master blender with Pernod Ricard and Frank McHardy, master distiller with Springbank. The results are hand-crafted Irish spirits of note which are rapidly gaining in popularity as their reputation grows. John’s company slogan is ‘Is Maith an scáthán súil charad’ – a friend’s eye is a good mirror. – CammY HaRlEY
Did you know?
Since its earliest recording in the 6th century where it was brewed in monasteries, and through the past 300 years in which it was illegal in Ireland, Poitín has been enmeshed in local folklore and superstition. Known to cure ‘anything that ails you’ – from arthritis to lumbago – its curative powers were legendary and people were often known to rub it into aching joints and stiff muscles, weary greyhounds, or to use it to combat baldness and nerves. Today it is primarily bought as a curiosity drink, but is also enjoying commercial viability as it gains a large and appreciative fan base. Poitín is now being served in bars across Ireland, London and New York, mostly served on ice, or as a ‘shooter’, but it also makes an interesting and popular base for cocktail drinks.
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Dine in Dunes in December. €25 menu available for Office Lunches or Smaller Groups
24 West Fork magazine
Innovation in food
Scally’s gears up for a busy gluten-free Christmas Christmas is among the most stressful times of year for gluten intolerant foodies. But one West Cork company has solved their problems, writes Siobhán Cronin, who spoke to Stephen Baker, head chef at Scally’s SuperValu in Clonakilty. ONE of West Cork’s newest foodie potatoes, with Christmas cakes and success stories is Scally’s glutenmince pies made to order. free plant in Clonakilty. ‘We are not doing a huge number of The Scally family, of the famous and Christmas cakes, as most families multi award-winning SuperValu in won’t bother getting an entire cake for the town, decided to open their own just one member of the family on a production facility, when they spotted gluten-free diet,’ notes Stephen. a huge rise in the numbers of shoppers And, of course, their stuffing is glutenasking for gluten-free produce. free – made with breadcrumbs from ‘What inspired Eugene (Scally) was gluten-free bread. that more and more people were ask‘As much as possible, we will be offering for our gluten-free range,’ recalls ing the same range in gluten-free opScally’s head chef, Stephen Baker, addtions, as the items in our own bakery,’ ing that West Cork and Kerry are two he points out, adding of the highest areas that, to ensure there for gluten intolerance is no contamination in Ireland. between plants, the Although he was gluten-free facilaware, too, for some ity is on a separate time, of the requests campus to the shop for non-gluten foods, and regular bakery even Stephen was takkitchen. en aback by the hugely ‘When you think of positive reaction to the it, baking glutenmove. free at home is very At the start, there was difficult and quite one baker, working two complicated. Most ally standard kitchens will Sc ne ge Eu d an to three days a week, na Catrio supported by Stephen, have wheat and flour, working once or twice a week alongetc, in them, and so people find it very side them, to produce the gluten-free difficult to bake without gluten creeprange. ing in, at home. Here, we have a totally In the few months since the launch, separate facility, to ensure that. Also, demand has meant that staff numbers all packaging is washed before it enters have increased to having two full-time the premises, just in case someone bakers working for six days a week, who loaded it might have just been with Stephen often working with eating their lunch beforehand. So all them for five days in the purpose-built options are covered. It might seem like gluten-free facility. a lot of work, but those are the kind And, with Christmas coming, the pres- of things you have to do to offer the sure is seriously on in Clonakilty. gluten-free food,’ Stephen told West ‘All our most popular Christmas foods Fork. will be available in a gluten-free verEven the equipment is specialised, he sion,’ says Stephen. says, and different types of items are While a lot of foods don’t automatiused in both kitchens. cally contain gluten, if they are not ‘Cooking it is the easy part, really,’ he produced in a certified gluten-free adds. ‘It’s what goes on before that is facility – like the one in Clonakilty – the hard part! It’s extremely time-conthen they can’t be called ‘gluten-free’. suming, but it’s how we like doing it.’ As a result, Scally’s can now guarantee He sees a demand for these foods their seasonal gluten-free range will increasing all the time. ‘Just the include all the staples like turkey gravy other day I had a call from a woman in (made with pure turkey stock), cranDublin who had seen some of the stuff berry sauce, red cabbage and garlic online, because at the moment we are
the only two shops (including Scally’s in Blackrock in Cork) out of the 196 SuperValu stores countrywide, with our own gluten-free facility, and we are currently only supplying those two stores.’ ‘The challenge is,’ says Stephen, ‘mak- Rosa nna D avison ing sure the taste is as close as posRobb meets ie Ry sible in both versions of the item – the gluten an an -free d K ris Je gluten-free and the non gluten-free.’ bake ske a rs t the op One of the most popular items in the ening range is their fish chowder, and this is a big hit at Christmas time, too. But Scally’s currently have several other lines in ‘test’ phase. When an item goes to the lab for And it’s not just gluten intolerant testing, they have firstly to check if customers who love the range. Quite there are any traces at all of gluten. ‘I a lot of people like the lighter taste of will usually hear back within a week if non-gluten foods, and many people on there are,’ says Stephen. But because special diets, including sports people another element of the testing inand athletes, are often advised to try a volves checking the shelf-life, this can gluten-free diet. often take up to a month, or more. ‘Gluten-free food is just a baby yet, ‘We are usually waiting about 35 days in terms of where it can go. It’s getfor the results, and it’s about 32 days ting more popular all the time,’ says for a soup,’ he says. But it’s all part of Stephen. the specialised process.
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25
WILTON
Every Tuesday 10am-2.30pm Outside the Wilton Shopping Centre
FARMERS MARKET Find us on Facebook.
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THE FRESHEST FISH ON YOUR DOORSTEP ...
Marsh road, Skibbereen, co. cork t: 028 21869 • fax: 028 21885 e: info@thefishstation.ie • www.thefishstation.ie
locally caught fresh fish, sourced from our trawlers fishing out of union hall, Baltimore, Schull and Kinsale. fish is prepared to customer requirements by our courteous and skilled Staff.
See our huge Selection of freSh fiSh, ShellfiSh and frozen fiSh KiddieS corner: Fish fingers, fish cakes, fish goujons. fiSh SupplierS to: Restaurants, Hotels and Outside Catering Companies.
all and he along with Manager is a chef tions. es gg su d Marcel, our Shop an s tip to give cooking our staff is happy
26 West Fork magazine
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Main Street, Union Hall, Co. Cork Tel: 028-33818 Fax: 028-33099 Email: thefishshop@glenmarshellfish.com
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IT might not seem like most traditional of meals for Christmas Day, but quite a lot of people like a good piece of fish for their main course. Meat isn’t always top of the list for diners, and some ‘vegetarians’ will allow a little fish into their diet from time to time, to boost protein levels. It is also a very quick dish to serve up, for those who don’t want too much fuss on the day, or have plenty of other things going on, and might have a few different main courses on the go, if there are varying tastes and requests. When it comes to prime fish to select for your dinner, it’s hard to beat a nice Hake or
locally caught fish, sourced from our at trawlers fishing out of Monkfish. We asked thefreshfish experts the Fish union hall, Baltimore, Schull and Kinsale. Station on Marsh Road in Skibbereen to give us fish is prepared to customer requirements by our courteous and skilled Staff. their favourite fish recipe for a good Christmas Day meal. See our huge Selection of freSh fiSh, ShellfiSh and frozen fiSh This delicious recipe is for four people, and KiddieScan corner: Fish fingers, fish cakes, fish goujons. be served with all the usual vegetables and fiSh SupplierS to: potatoes that you might have already planned Restaurants, Hotels and Outside Catering Companies. for the Big Meal. Follow us on Facebook Have a good chat with your fish monger before or call in for our daily Special offerS selecting the fish, and they will give you good advice on storage, amounts and filleting, where necessary. This recipe comes from Marcel van der Hooft who, himself, is a big fan of local monkfish. all and he along with Manager is a chef Marcel, our Shop and suggestions. to give cooking tips our staff is happy
Monkfish medallions with saffron sauce
for 4 people - 250ml cream - a couple of strings of saffron - 3 leeks, cut into long strips - sea salt and black pepper - pink peppercorns and 4 wedges of lemon
- 700-800g Monkfish medallions - butter - glass of white wine - glass of fish stock - 1 onion finely chopped - a handful of mushrooms, chopped l Melt a bit of butter in a large frying pan, over high heat. Place the monkfish in the pan and season with sea salt and black pepper. Fry the medallions for about three minutes on each side. l Take the monkfish out of the pan and put aside on a plate covered with tinfoil to keep it warm. l Put the onions and mushrooms in the frying pan and simmer them over a low heat for a couple of minutes. l Add the white wine, over high heat, and reduce until you have half the liquid left. l Add the fish stock and reduce the liquid to half again. l Add the cream and simmer the sauce until it starts to thicken slightly. l In the meantime, blanche the strings of leeks in boiling water with a bit of salt and pepper.
Creamy fish pie the perfect winter warmer
This is a real winter warmer for fish fans. You can serve it at Christmas, or have it in the freezer, ready for one of those days when you don’t want to be cooking, but want something filling and comforting. This recipe, from the award-winning Glenmar Shelfish in Union Hall, is for salmon and haddock, but these fish can be substituted for most fresh fish. Ingredients: - 675g floury potatoes, cut into chunks. - 600ml milk - 300ml cream - 1 bay leaf - 900g mixed fish - salmon, smoked haddock & fresh haddock - 175g unsalted butter - 1 onion finely chopped - 75g plain flour - 175ml dry white wine - 2 leeks, trimmed and thinly sliced - 6 tbls chopped fresh mixed herbs such as parsley and dill - salt and freshly ground black pepper
l When cooked, pour them in a colander and leave to drain. l Strain the sauce through a sieve into a clean frying pan. l Add the strings of saffron and place the monkfish back in the sauce. l Simmer for another couple of minutes and turn off the heat. l Place the strings of leeks in the middle of the plates, arrange the pieces of monkfish around them, and drizzle some of the sauce over the pieces of fish. l Sprinkle a small bit of the pink peppercorns over the plates, and garnish with a wedge of lemon. l Serve with a selection of your favourite Christmas vegetables and a choice of potatoes.
l Preheat the oven to 200 c/ 400 c/ gas 6. Place the potatoes in a pot of boiling salted water, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until tender. l Meanwhile, place milk in a small saucepan with 225ml of the cream, and the bayleaf. l Add the fish and poach for 3-5 minutes, or until tender. Transfer the fish to a plate. Strain the poaching liquid, through a sieve, into a jug. l Melt 50g of butter in a large pan, adding the onion. l Cook gently for 4-5 minutes until softened, but not coloured. l Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring continuously. l Pour in the wine and allow to reduce, then add the reserved poaching liquid, a little at a time, whisking continuously. l Reduce the heat and stir in the leeks. l Simmer gently for 6-8 minutes until the leeks are softened and tender and the sauce has slightly reduced and thickened, stirring occasionally. l Stir in the herbs and season. Drain the cooked potatoes, allowing them to dry, mash them and beat in butter and cream. Butter an oven proof dish. l Spread the fish over the dish, then spoon the sauce on top to cover completely, then carefully spread over the mashed potatoes to cover, completely smoothing over with a fork. Grill until heated through, and the mash is golden and bubbling.
Kela and Stephen relish new role at Dunowen House THERE comes a time when you have to stop watching re-runs of Escape to the Country, a time when you realise it is now or never. That realisation came at the end of August 2013, when on a chance visit to Clonakilty, Stephen and Kela Hodgins came across Dunowen House. On a stunningly beautiful summer’s day, they drove over the hill from Ardfield, spotted Galley Head lighthouse on the horizon, and instantly fell in love with the area. Within two weeks they had sold their house in Dublin, and within six weeks they had loaded their three children, a dog and their furniture into two trucks
and escaped to the country. ‘Saying goodbye to office-based careers in marketing and finance in Dublin city was not as difficult as you’d imagine,’ said Kela, who, together with Stephen, is relishing her role as the owner of a luxury guesthouse and self-catering holiday business. ‘A lot of our friends and family thought we were crazy, but we believe it would have been crazy not to take that leap of faith.’ Dunowen House is set in a stunning coastal location near Galley Head Lighthouse, and is just a ten-minute drive from the centre of Clonakilty, all of which makes it a real gem on the Wild Atlantic Way. See: www.dunowenhouse.ie
Lettercollum Cookbook – the long wait is over IT is selling fast, The Lettercollum Cookbook, and the reason it is selling fast is because people have been waiting 30 years for a collection of Karen Austin’s recipes. The book has, for several reasons, become an instant classic. One reason is that half of the people of Clonakilty made it their business to pack Scannell’s to the rafters for the launch and while they were there took the opportunity to buy two, three, four and five copies of the cookbook. These people – all devoted customers – have done it all. They went to the restaurant at Lettercollum House, near Timoleague, when it was open. Today, they shop as often as they can at the Lettercollum Kitchen Project at Connolly Street. And they have even attended many of the Lettercollum Cooking Courses, at which Karen’s recipes and
Author Karen Austin, in Clonakilty. Photo: Domnick Walsh/Eye Focus
those of her partner, Con McLoughlin, were always readily available. There was, however, one notable exception to that general rule. It was their famous Chocolate and Hazelnut Cake, but now even that is contained in this handsome new book. You will find these dishes perfect for every occasion, be it a weekday meal, or a weekend party.
Fields bakery in Skibbereen has announced a joint venture with West Cork Distillers, for the use of their locally distilled spirits in its Christmas Fruit Cakes and Mince Pies. These two facilities, both bakery and distillery, employ nearly 50 people. West Cork Irish whiskey and the premium spirits range will be used in the production of all cakes and mince pies at Fields bakery in Skibbereen. Pictured at West Cork Distillers premises in Skibbereen were Adam Walsh (Fields Bakers & Confectioners), Ger McCarthy (West Cork Distillers), Kevin O’Regan (manager, Fields Bakery),
West Fork magazine
27
Eat Well, Live Well, Be Well By Kate Ryan I’ve never been skinny. I wouldn’t even call myself slim. I would say that I am curvy, but above all I would always describe myself as healthy. Do I eat cakes, sweets and chocolates sometimes? Maybe indulge in a glass of wine or three from time to time? Yes, I do. That’s probably why I will never be skinny or slim! Do I eat a balanced diet consisting of plenty of vegetables, fruits, grains and seeds, lean meats and fish? Yes, I do! And that is why, irrespective of my personal shape and size, I know on the inside I am healthy – because I eat well, I cook from scratch, always, and I know where my food is coming from … literally.
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A WIDE RANGE OF LOCAL FOOD, RAW AND COOKED PLANTS AND PRODUCE
28 West Fork magazine
25 TO 30 STALLS
J L Q KHU V E U R Z V LQ H Y R O H W D . O R Q D N L O W\ WV O L N H & H N U D P O D OR F AS a lover of all things epicurean (growing, buying, cooking and eating food) I do still have an obligation to not lose the run of myself altogether and say, bury my face into a six inch thick chocolate fudge cake. I do this by following Dr Moseley’s The Fast Diet (www.thefastdiet.co.uk), whereby five days per week I can eat and drink pretty much whatever I fancy (meaning: eat as you would normally and not binging relentlessly for five days!) and two days per week I restrict my calorie intake to 500 calories per day. It sounds harsh, and might not be for everyone (check with your doctor if you’re not sure), but you would be surprised how much you can actually eat for 500 calories. Meat-free, carb-free and fat-free meals are obvious ways to shed instant calories, but in fact you can have all of these if you make correct decisions (eg wholegrains in carbs; low-fat protein options, using herbs and spices to bring flavour into a dish, rather than fats and salts). What is key here, though, is having unfettered access to great ingredients to begin with. If you can easily place your hands on veg that is local and, in some cases, only pulled that morning; if you know that the meat you are eating was not reared on chemicals but spent a happy life grazing on grass overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, or rolling open
countryside; if you know that the fish you are eating came fresh off the boat that morning, then you are instantly on a winner with being able to eat well – whether you are dieting or just living your normal everyday life. In West Cork we are blessed with an abundance of great food producers and great ingredients treated with great care and always with their customers in mind. And there is no shortage of access to it, either. If you are a die hard supermarket shopper (there is one inside all of us, we just love the convenience of those places!), even that doesn’t stop you getting your hands on local organic vegetables and locally farmed beef, pork and chicken; local free range eggs, artisan breads, beautiful local dairy produce; handmade fairtrade chocolates as we are lucky to have supermarkets that are keen as mustard to support local. Else, if you prefer the camaraderie of your local farmers’ market, then guess what, the same produce is for sale there too – and with much more range and choice. Or if your life is so hectic you can’t make it to either of those, then get it delivered to your front door or place of work. I literally know where the contents of my fortnightly ‘pot-luck’ veg box comes from, because I ask Devoy’s Organic Farm to give me only what they grow on their amazing organic farm in Rosscarbery.
When I go and get my meat from M J O’Neill’s Butchers in Clonakilty, I know that the beef I am buying comes from his cows, humanely dispatched in their own abattoirs and that there is complete traceability from farm to fork for his beautiful produce. I know that when I head to Glenmar Shellfish in Union Hall for my fish that it has come off the boat that day and was hauled the handful of yards to the shop where the fish is hand-prepared. I know the people who bake the bread I like. And I love that the places I choose to eat in West Cork know these people too, and also buy their produce to turn it into a thing of delicious beauty that is served up just for me. We are so lucky in this region. Maybe it’s because I consider myself a foodie, but the connection I and we all have to this place is reinforced through the food that is produced and eaten here. If we didn’t care about our place, our environment, our landscape, the food we are able to eat just would not taste the same. Supporting local producers is key to maintaining this link. Even if your budget cannot stretch to always shopping at markets or artisan stores, I would say that if you choose one or two quality produce items to focus on buying regularly (for example, supporting your local craft butcher or spending just €20 a week will get you a lovely box of fresh local organic veggies to feed your family with) you will see an instant improvement in your diet and the qual-
stop-offs ity of your evening meals. Make sitting around the table a daily ritual and that will also add an extra pinch of magic to your dinner. It is so easy to eat well and eat healthily in this region, that I find it hard to imagine why some people don’t. Whether you are home cooking or dining out for lunch or dinner, fast food and processed eats should be an exception but it shouldn’t be the de riguer for your eating habits. Regain your sense of adventure for food and cooking and lets get back to eating good food together around the table.
Kate Ryan, above, is the author of food blog Flavour.ie, a collection of blogs including delicious recipes to cook from scratch in under an hour, a supper club and her food adventures. Find her at: www.flavour.ie www.facebook.com/flavourwestcork www.twitter.com/FlavourIE www.instagram.com/katylryan
West Fork magazine
29
Gift Ideas Presents of mind Our family farm is based in Rosscarbery and we have 200 hens who have lots of fresh air and fun!! You can nearly taste the fresh air in our eggs
Wondering about something different to fill a stocking or leave under the tree this year? Well, you don’t have to go too far in this hugely creative part of the world, says Siobhán Cronin
We are a local family business and we supply our eggs to Scallys Supervalu, Clonakilty, The Fish Shop, Rosscarbery and Cowhigs Service Station, Leap.
So look out for our blue boxes and enjoy fresher and local eggs today! If you would like to buy or supply our eggs please call Caroline on 086 6017677 West Cork Eggs
Freshly cut sandwiches
OPEN: 10AM - 6PM TUESDAY TO SATURDAY 12PM - 6PM SUNDAY. CLOSED MONDAYS
30 West Fork magazine
tured with al Gift Cards is pic oc L om fr n ola ar Maria C W Z H D U R D )R Q 2 5 H JD Q )X FKV L . H Y L For every euro spent on a small, local business, it’s estimated that about 60c stays local, as opposed to about 40c staying in the area, if you spend it with a larger firm, like a multiple. So, with that in mind, arm yourself with all the details before planning your Christmas shopping trip. West Cork is rich in local artisan producers of food, crafts and even games. You need look no further than the ‘Made in West Cork’ brand featured at Cork Airport, to know there is a huge selection of high quality, stylish items made on your doorstep. And what about the West Cork Crafts shop at Townshend Street in Skibbereen, which is run like a co-op, where local producers get shop space to display their wares, in return for a small weekly rent? From paintings, to cards, to jewellery and bags or handmade scarves, there’s nothing like getting a little gift, with a local name attached, to bring a smile to the face of anyone who has a place in their heart for this beautiful part of the world. If you think you need something a little more traditional for a gift, how about a box of deluxe chocolates – handmade near home? Luckily, in Cork we are blessed with several chocolate and home-made sweet producers – from Mella’s Fudge in Clonakilty to Cork city-based David Chocolatier and also Eve Chocolates. Then there’s Lorge
JU D S K\ W R V 3 KR Y L JU D S K\ ( PPD - H U W R 3 KR
chocolate in Bonane, outside Glengarriff, Katie’s Chocolate in Bandon and Clonakilty Chocolate. You’ll even find a great selection of handmade sweets, chocolates and much more, at your local farmer’s market and all the exhibitors will be offering specially gift-wrapped collections at this time of year. But what about popping into a local sweet shop and getting a personalised gift selection made up for your favourite friend – or maybe grandad has a sweet tooth? From Jennifer Evan’s iconic and very traditional sweet shop at the Square in Bantry to the several olde style but essentially ‘new’ sweet shops that have popped up in towns from Clonakilty to Bandon, there really is ‘something for everyone’ in these little gems. Still confused about gifts? What about a West Cork voucher, then? Clonakilty-based Maria Carolan’s Givealocalgiftcard.ie will give you plenty of options. See her site for a range of options for each big town in West Cork. Of course, most shops, restaurants, hotels, beauty salons and leisure centres, will offer a voucher these days, and some towns – like Clonakilty – even have their own voucher scheme. But remember, the more local you stay, the more money stays in the economy – and it may even come back to you someday!
Too many cooks? Never enough books! Here in the West Fork office we believe that experiencing great food extends beyond going to a great restaurant or being invited to a great dinner party. It’s all about getting stuck in yourself, finding recipes, buying great ingredients and turning up the heat in your own kitchen. So here’s our selection of great foodie books to get you inspired – why not put one or two of them on your Santa list, or better still, enter our great competition below and win the whole cookin’ lot!
Gubbeen
The Story of a Working Farm and its Foods Giana Ferguson
The Nation’s Favourite Food Fast!
WIN THEM ALL!
Neven Maguire
West Fork Book Competition, c/o The Southern Star, Ilen Street, Skibbereen, Co . Cork before close of business on Monday, December 8th, 2014.
100 Best-Loved Recipes for Busy Lives
(with foreword by Darina Allen)
This is an exceptional insight into the running of this award-winning traditional farm in West Cork. See page 6 of this issue of West Fork for more on Gubbeen. Published by Kyle Books.
Neven serves up fast, nutritious food for busy lives in his new cookbook. Published by Gill & Macmillan, priced at €22.99.
The ICA Book The Lettercollum of Tea and Cookbook Cookboo Company Karen Austin k Karen Austi n
Kar Aus
The Letterco llum
The Lettercollum Kitchen Project, run by Karen Austin and Con McLoughlin, is a West Cork institution – a bakery and delicatessen that is celebrated for its delicious food, creative menus and fresh, organic, seasonal produce. This book centres around a collection of the most requested recipes from the kitchen at Lettercollum.Published by Onstream and priced at €21. Recipes from the Kitch en Project
Recipes and Reflections for Every Day
In their third book with Gill & Macmil Macmillan, the women of the ICA are back sharing more recipes, but now also words of wisdom passed on by generations of Irish mammies, grannies, aunties, sisters and friends. A kind word and a cuppa – it’s like a hug in a book. €22.99.
Bake Like An Italian
Food For The Fast Lane
Catherine Fulvio
Derval O’Rourke
More Recipes for the Good Life Catherine’s latest cookbook reveals the secret techniques, tips and special ingredients that make Italians the best bakers in the world! Published by Gill & Macmillan, priced at €22.99.
Dinner
The Irish Times Selection
The Extra Virgin Kitchen Recipes for Wheat, Sugar and Dairy-free Eating
Address:...................................................................................................................... Phone:........................................................................................................................ Email:......................................................................................................................... Terms and conditions apply.
Q: What bird is traditionally cooked for Christmas dinner? A: ..........................................................................................
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West Fork magazine
31
the
Cafe “Happy Christmas to all our customers & friends”
Lunch served daily, phone in advance and we’ll have it ready for you on arrival.
Eat in, take out.
Quay Food Co. David & Laura Peare Market Quay, Kinsale, Co. Cork. Tel (021) 4774000 Kinsale’s most exciting speciality food shop Kinsale’s most exciting Hampers made to order speciality food shop
Daily specials and usual popular items available. Christmas baking available to order. Christmas party nights & lunches throughout December OPENING HOURS Monday-Saturday 10am-5pm
Gift Vouchers Available 6 North Street, Skibbereen, West Cork | Phone: (028) 40090
Make sure your business has
a GREAT Christmas...
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Shop local this Christmas
for your town
Shopping Feature dates & contact for your town : Nov 29th
Kinsale Bandon Dunmanway
John Hendrick Donnchadh Crowley Anne Breen
028 21200 087 242 6188 028 21200
Dec 6th
Bantry Clonakilty Skibbereen
Jennifer Barron Donnchadh Crowley Anne Breen
028 21200 087 242 6188 028 21200
Dec 13th
Rosscarbery Innishannon Castletownbere
Anne Kelleher John Hendrick Donnchadh Crowley
086 8924957 028 21200 087 242 6188
for all enquiries Call 028 21200 or advertising@southernstar.ie
32 West Fork magazine
Authentic wood oven pizza made fresh every day! Sit in takeway Free Delivery Main St. Car Park Skibbereen 028 23544
Spending Christmas overseas
! h c n u B h c n u L n ig
The Fore
be hey will t w o h t abou st Cork e W m o s s fr migrant dopted countrie e o t s k l a a Harley t in their Cammy Christmas Day g spendin settled ai and have bab of b u D to b e a ke llydeho d from Ba warma, which is lik nk h mily move d mint dri c fa n S a g y n tl n u s o o yo m m le ir e is a d th o o d ls fo n a is he tt a Shirley Sti me. Shirley says: ‘T d tabbouleh. There . Paul and m int’ s an w ho u m e l m n a m ir re u e h ey and ha h th , it made w ional turk of course in well to it a d d te a n t a tr . in – a e f r m e orde r be to serv rite is chicken o at you can and ready as meal, nd a favou elicious a Shirley explained th door, fully cooked tm s ri h C l a which is d r er, to you adition tmas dinn dge delivered g to have the full tr ts e g For Chris it d n Mella’s Fu s meal a ys ‘I miss ily are goin beach! a s m y fa le r e ir Christma h h S d Shirley an are having it on the y misses the most, This year they famil – e t th is s d tw o a om t Cork fo but with titt fr what Wes kfast.’ S a d e re k b y s a h is n le e ith Wh e full Ir Shir ving w misses th ob is li and Paul ai
Dubai
eh Dub Ballyd mily in a f r e h
Australia
sons Chris and Jackie Black and their to Perth try, Ban near ore, Drom moved from in Australia. in Oz, the Last Christmas, being their first out their three boys had great fun picking o, the garo Kan for d opte one own menu – opted for other for steak and the third boy prawns turkey. Jackie chose pink snapper on the and the whole meal was cooked barbecue. d that Jackie says: ‘The lads were disguste sel Brus ed cook and ced I had not sour my roast sprouts, but were delighted with t parsnips roas and ots carr ch potatoes, Fren that it with parmesan cheese’. Jackie says simply was ‘It Day. as stm Chri was 35°C last h lunc hot al too hot to eat a full tradition with ey turk ed glaz the ed miss and the boys stmas home-made-stuffing and hot Chri pudding’. choice She adds: ‘Perth has an amazing ive pens inex to s food ic exot of fare, from The quality delights from all over the world.
is excellent, of the food in terms of taste and cost – even when s ulou ridic is but the price of mangoes go in Superman a buy d coul I on. seas in they are hing up to $5 on Valu for €1 and here they are anyt as’. stm Chri nd arou average
Jackie Black moved from Dromore to Australia
San Francisco
heep’s e on the S r Tara and her their hom te h ve g a u le a , e fondue d n a of a chees with their band, Se n s s u io le h it e r d g e a n h tr A in Los family ihy and hristmas atie Cudd stmas Eve ree young Novelist K ula to spend each C ped a unique Chri g. With th in s lo k o in nes ve n e co e d n P s w Head the little o ara ha e’. their o viour from tie says: ‘T one does grape juic family. Ka gne and sparkling t meal where every of extra-good beha pa an nd with cham to say: ‘It is an eleg rry of excitement a on a flu is re e th She goes , the house et them’. cluding children in at Santa wont forg ls for her family, in auce. th a istachio s e e p p m mb with in the ho amazing la t f s o o k m c e ra s th sa Tara cook ng delights such a teri mouthwa
les Los Ange
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in San est Cork to live ful family left W ht lifornia, lig Ca de in r re ei th he d g me and livin imoleague an ho Dr at m ls fro of the ea l m ea el Sh sh sm O’ ually cook Iri I just love the Keith and Marie Marie says: ‘I us local produce. a. sh ni fre or lif of e Ca nc in Francisco e is an abunda times on r choice as ther rmers’ Market’. pping at lunch we are spoilt fo s in our local Fa sle ai e th staurants are ho g re ge juice, in e lk an ‘th or wa ys ed ile sa ez wh ie fresh fruit freshly-sque out and Mar ur ne vo di sa to e to lik es ily ac m st pl Marie and her fa seek out the be r family ritual to eletes, om d ne io a Sunday. It is ou sh fa ffee, good old fresh-brewed co ilk pancakes, d thick butterm an ped n co smoked ba erries and whip wb -grown stra lly ca lo th lly wi ua ed us topp , Marie ristmas dinner r cream’. For Ch salmon and cape ed ok sm d, la sa it ed fru ni ‘a pa es m ar co prep toast ac on sour-dough r the scrambled egg hot chocolate fo d an ts ul ad e th r fo d’s as el Fi os e, im at m by ocol es Cadbury’s Ch kids’. Marie miss y Black Pudding the most. ilt ak Bread and Clon
co to San Francis
West Fork magazine
33
Final word The importance of supporting West Cork’s local economy John Field, champion of West Cork’s food industry, explains why it’s in all our interests to think and act local According to Slater’s National Commercial Directory of Ireland launched in 1845, the premises situated at 26 Main St, Skibbereen was a shop and bakery operated by Jeremiah Cullinane. Ireland at that time, and West Cork in particular, was ravaged by famine. When Jeremiah Cullinane finished his early morning baking, he allowed the local people to bring in their homemade bread and bake it off in his ovens. This bakery and shop was taken over by Jack and Maureen Field in 1935 and continues to this day still baking bread daily, 175 years later – ‘Probably Ireland’s Oldest Bakery’. We take great pride that our bakery has survived a famine, two world wars,
a civil war, an economic war and about ten recessions! There’s a degree of irony in that West Cork, so badly affected by the famine, is now recognised as having some of the finest artisan food producers in Europe. Cheese, Smoked Fish, Fruit and Vegetables, Bacon, Smoked Salmon Pate, Preserves, Shellfish, Fresh Fish and Duck – all of which are locally produced, by local people. I believe it’s vital for the future prosperity of our region that as a community we continue to produce, nurture and support local food production and consumption. I think it’s important for two main reasons. Firstly, it’s good for our local economy. Brand ‘West Cork’ continues to gain a national and international reputation as a hotbed for great artisan-led food. This region enjoys a diverse range of colourful and wonderful characters involved in the local food industry, some
Deasy’s Harbour Bar and Seafood Restaurant, Ring Village, Clonakilty. (023)8835741
of them homegrown, some who have ‘blown in’, all with their own story, style and approach to their business, but who all hold an unswerving passion, entrepreneurial spirit and drive to be the best at what they do. These food businesses employ local people in their own operations but also procure products and services from other local third party suppliers. The restaurants, hotels and retailers that stock and serve these food products also employ local people. In turn, our food culture attracts tourists and visitors from around the world (note the success of the A Taste of West Cork festival) which again benefits all of us as they spend money locally and help spread the word when they go home. Take this magazine, West Fork, which celebrates our food culture and in turn contributes to providing employment for local people at The Southern Star. It’s all connected! Secondly, because I think it’s good for the mind, body and soul. We live in a world where often mass-produced convenience foods with low nutritional value are regularly consumed as the ‘norm’ by ‘time poor’ people rushing through meal times, with no sense of where the ingredients in their food came from. However, the food and drink produced in our region is fresh
and tasty and is ‘brought to our tables’ by local people that really care. In other words, we know its provenance. Surely, part of the privilege of living in West Cork is to take time every now and again to ‘slow down’ and enjoy the taste and the stories behind our food with friends and family. Back to our own business, we would like to recognise the wonderful support and loyalty from local people that the bakery has received over the years. Quality has always played a huge part in the continuing success of Fields and we’ve received national recognition and awards, much of which are due to great local suppliers we work with, for which we are hugely grateful. As a part of the SuperValu group, our Food Academy supports local suppliers across Ireland and introduces them to a huge national market. SuperValu serves over 2.6 million customers every week through 223 stores nationwide and purchases €2 billion worth of goods from Irish suppliers, which contributes to 30,000 Irish jobs. This Christmas let’s celebrate and enjoy the fantastic food and drink that’s right here on our doorstep. Wishing you and your families a wonderful festive season.
... part of the privilege of living in West Cork is to take time every now and again to slow down and enjoy the taste and the stories behind our food with friends and family
John Field
Fields SuperValu, Skibbereen
Nollaig Shona agus Athbhliain foai Mhaise Daoibh HOURS 100 Best One ofOPENING the Bridgestone
Dinner Served Wed- Sat 6.00-9.30 Early Bird 6.00-6.45 Restaurants in Ireland 2012 Sunday Lunch 1.00-3.00 Light Lunches served Saturday 12.30-3.00
Additional Christmas Opening Hours
Open Monday and Tuesday 22nd and 23rd of December Closed 24th -28th December Re-opening Monday 29th for dinner to Sunday the 4th January Also serving dinner Tuesday 6th of January for Womens Christmas
For Bookings Call: 0238835741 Vouchers Available On sale in Deasy’s and De Barras, Clonakilty
34 West Fork magazine
We hope you enjoyed this festive edition of West Fork. We’re always amazed at how many people and businesses are involved in the West Cork food scene, making it such a vibrant and stimulating topic to report on. As ever we hope to continue doing our bit to spread the word. Thank you to our advertisers for helping us continue publishing the magazine and thank you to our readers for your ongoing support. Wishing everyone a merry Christmas and a happy New Year from All at West Fork & The Southern Star
fernHill VouCHers are a Great Gift idea
Full Sunday lunch for two Afternoon tea for two Lunch available daily Available at the hotel or www.fernhillhousehotel.com ContaCt info:
fernhill House Hotel & Gardens Clonakilty, West Cork www.fernhillhousehotel.com, 023 8833258
A warm Clonakilty welcome, always... At An Súgán, we’re proud to have delivered great food and warm welcomes to our customers, both locals and visitors, for over thirty years. We’re a family run business based in the heart of Clonakilty and we think it’s important to source and serve only the freshest local ingredients from suppliers across West Cork.
Winter warmers, 2 courses for only €20 Now that the days are drawing in, come and enjoy our cosy atmosphere, roaring fires and a comforting meal from our extensive menus which offer something delicious for every taste and budget.
We also have an elegantly appointed guesthouse! If you’re going to a wedding, attending a party, here on business or just fancy a relaxing night away from home (and maybe the kids...) then why not stay in our comfortable guesthouse, located adjacent to the restaurant in a beautiful Georgian house on a quiet side street near the centre of town.
Why not choose from our famous An Súgán seafood pie, chicken goujons, pan-fried hake, deep fried calamari or a bowl of delicious seafood chowder......and why not treat yourself to our selection of mouthwatering homemade desserts!
We have seven comfortable and elegantly furnished rooms, with full amenities including en-suite with flat screen televisions, iron & ironing boards, tea/coffee making facilities, hairdryers and extremely comfortable beds (something many guests have commented on). Our famous full Irish breakfast (and lighter fare) is served every morning.
Keep in touch...
We regularly run offers and promotions so keep in touch by visiting our Facebook page, facebook.com/ansuganclon and our website ansugan.com. Call us on 023 883 3719 or you can email us on contact@ansugan.com
We look forward to welcoming you soon
Did you know... ... the restaurant has two private dining rooms that are suitable for all occasions, from birthdays to anniversaries or business functions.
2012
2012
One of only 27 pubs in Ireland listed in the ‘2015 Michelin Eating Out In Pubs Guide’