9 minute read
Grill restaurant with the vibe of a traditional Belgian pub
by Westtoer
IN ‘T NEW MUSEUM WITH KOEN & MARIJKE
“In ’t New Museum bij Koen & Marijke” is on Hooistraat, right in the middle of Bruges. The grill restaurant is managed by Koen Demeulemeester and his wife Marijke Bax, who took the business over from Koen’s parents Paul and Rita five years ago. Koen won’t just be talking to us about their own restaurant: he’s headed out to visit three Bruges establishments: De Kelk, ’t Brugs Beertje and Brasserie SurPlace.
BY BIEKE COBBAERT PHOTOS DAVY COGHE
In ’t Nieuw Museum was first established in 1977, although it’s moved house during this time; it used to be located in Grauwwerkersstraat in Bruges. “We haven’t changed the essential concept dreamed up by Koen’s parents”, explains Marijke. “We’ve just evolved from a beer restaurant specialising in ribs to a grill restaurant with the vibe of a traditional pub. We want to be a space where people feel at home. We think it’s very important to create that welcoming atmosphere for our customers… and also for ourselves”. Our hostess comes from De Kempen originally, but followed her heart to West Flanders. Formerly a social worker, she now can’t envisage leaving the hospitality business.
SHORT SUPPLY CHAINS
“One change we did work to make is that we now mostly have short supply chains for our products and ingredients”, explains Koen. “Not just for our fruit and vegetables, either –
“We offer lighter beers on tap as well as our stronger ales: mild or bitter, blond or brown”, says Koen.
our meat is also supplied directly. It comes straight from the farmer to your plate. We are in contact with our farmers every week to discuss which cuts will be available, alongside what they’re supplying for the shops. Then we put together our menu. We always start with the farm menu, but we do also have the same process for our à-la-carte menu.”
“Locally farmed meat was a challenge at first. It took us a while to source. What we say is: Why would you grill an Argentinian or Irish ribeye if you can get meat here in West Flanders that’s just as tasty – or tastier? But the farmers that we contacted about meat were initially reluctant to sell to us. This was partly because we’d snap up their finest cuts and partly because it would eat into their profits. So we took a different approach. We asked them which cuts they’d be happy to manage without. Cuts that are less popular or that people don’t really know about – in other words, cuts that just don’t sell so well, but are still great quality. That way, we started the ball rolling. Nowadays, our farmers are happy to sell us more popular cuts too. It’s a question of give and take.”
THE PERFECT BEER
In ’t Nieuw Museum is not just known for fabulous grilled meat from local farmers: its beer menu has also helped put it on the map. “Right from the very start, In ’t Nieuw Museum has been a place for people to come for a great beer. In the early days, we mostly had mainstream beers on offer, plus a few local gems. Over the years, that developed into a huge list of interesting beers from around the country, with fewer and fewer well-known beers. Nowadays, we’ve reached a happy medium. We don’t necessarily feel the need to have our menu packed with speciality beers. What we want is to have something for everyone. We offer lighter beers on tap as well as our darker ales: mild or bitter, blond or brown. We want to give a chance to small breweries that are often unknown to the general public, but still make great beer.” Marijke will suggest a beer for each starter and main dish. “We’ve found that people are happy to enjoy our suggestions. Even wine drinkers will let us tempt them to a beer. In fact, we always serve our beers in wine glasses. Not only does it look good; it means we don’t have to keep a huge stock of different beer glasses.” www.nieuw-museum.com
Marijke and Koen inherited the business from Koen’s parents.
KOEN AND MARIJKE LIST THEIR FAVOURITES: Marieke’s favourite beer
“My all-time favourite is a Bourgogne des Flandres from the eponymous brewery right here in Bruges. I have to admit that five years ago, I was more of a sweet wine drinker. But now I’m as big a beer fan as Koen... maybe even bigger! Bourgogne des Flandres is a very light roasted brown beer with just a hint of sourness. It’s a mild beer that you can sip on all day. I often recommend it to women who usually never drink beer. It’s the perfect beer to start on.”
Koen’s favourite beer
“Just pour me out a Noir de Dottignies from De Ranke Brewery. De Ranke has its roots in Wevelgem, but nowadays, they brew their beer in Dottenijs, a village in Henegouwen, right on the language border. Noir de Dottignies first saw the light of day in 2009 and it was the first truly dark beer that the brewery launched on the market. I find it the most balanced beer that I’ve ever drunk. It has a rich malty flavour with hints of coffee, chicory and bitter chocolate. It also makes a fantastic rum cocktail.”
Out and about with Koen: DE KELK
A new chapter rooted in history
De Kelk, a name that stands for excellence in Bruges and the surrounding area, is located in Langestraat. “This bar has been around for longer than In ’t Nieuw Museum. De Kelk first opened its doors in 1909 and has never changed its name. The bar made its name as a beer pub – but also as a music venue. The performance hall has been a pillar of the Bruges music scene for years and there have been some legendary gigs there”, says Koen Demeulemeester. In March 2016, De Kelk was put up for public auction. “A year and a major renovation later, and the doors were reopened by Vincent De Jaegher and Lisa Demeyere. It’s become a local treasure. What we have here is just the opposite of van ’t Brugs Beertje (see right). Vinnie and Lisa are writing a new chapter in the bar’s story, but without erasing its history. They’re transforming its former glory into something equally glorious. And, yes, Vinnie and Lisa have hopped on the beer train. The emphasis is on craft beers from local breweries and microbreweries, and on Belgian beers, but there is also a selection of the best beers from elsewhere”, says Koen.
www.dekelk.be
Koen Demeulemeester with Dries from ’t Brugs Beertje, in the same place as Koen’s father always sat at the bar.
Out and about with Koen: ’T BRUGS BEERTJE
“’t Brugs Beertje is far and away the best known place for a pint in Bruges. Barley juice has been flowing from the taps at the traditional bar in Kemelstraat ever since 1983. Daisy Claeys was a pioneer. It was one of the first bars where you couldn’t even get a pilsner. Back then, Daisy was the first person to take the risk of serving beers from small local brewers – and that meant no pilsner. As we know, it worked. ’t Brugs Beertje became a roaring success. But it’s more than that. It’s local heritage”, declares Koen Demeulemeester. In 2017, Daisy handed over control of her taps to Dries Brouckaert. “The ambiance didn’t change in any way. It’s just that now there’s someone else behind the bar. Dries didn’t touch Daisy’s style and décor. What he has done is pin ’t Brugs Beertje ever more firmly on the map, thanks to his in-depth beer expertise. Dries is gradually phasing in new beers, adding a bit of extra fizz to the beer menu. A real treasure!”
www.brugsbeertje.be
Koen Demeulemeester with Johan at SurPlace.
Out and about with Koen: BRASSERIE SURPLACE
“Johan Verstraeten is one of the finest transfers Bruges has secured. He used to be a chef in Nooderlicht in Hoeke, a restaurant famed for its eel. Johan is by far the best traditionally trained chef that I know. He and his partner Michèle Van Vyve decided to change direction and for some years now they’ve been running SurPlace, a brasserie on SintAmandsstraat. They acquired a derelict property that had once been one of Bruges’ biggest tourist traps, set a major renovation in motion – and created a resounding success. The dishes, with an emphasis on Flemish classics and seasonal suggestions, are superb. The beer menu is admittedly short – but anything on the list is sure to be top quality. And the racing atmosphere is free”, adds Koen.
www.brasserie-surplace.be
Hopspots in Bruges
Bruges has numerous breweries, as well as its traditional bars with impressive beer lists, beer restaurants, an annual beer festival and beer trails.
©Jan D’Hondt
Bruges Beer Walk
This three-hour history trail led by a professional beer guide takes you to tucked-away bars and speciality breweries. Learn some of the surprising secrets of Bruges’ beer history and try a few beers en route. www.visitbruges.be/nl/brugge-beer-walk
Wacko beer soap
A luscious collaboration between Thomas from Bourgogne des Flandres and Zeepzot. The red Belgian ale is what gives Wacko soap its luxurious foam. A unique beer-themed gift, available from various outlets in Bruges. www.zeepzot.be/soaps/wacko-handsoap
Bourgogne des Flandres
Get to know the brewery and distillery. Meet the brewer in the loft and inhale the odours of malt and fresh hops. Round the tour off with a tasting session while enjoying views over the canals. (Kartuizerinnenstraat 6, Bruges) www.bourgognedesflandres.be
Jilles
Beer and burgers! Beer sommelier Sofie Vanrafelghem will be sure to suggest suitable beers for every one of the varied dishes. A new partnership has recently been established between Jilles and the Fort Lapin Brewery. (Braambergstraat 10, Bruges) www.jilles.be/nl/locaties/brugge
De Halve maan
Located in the heart of Bruges, town brewery De Halve Maan has an attractive atrium where you can sample their beers and the daily food specials. Brewery tours are also available. (Walplein 26, Bruges) www.halvemaan.be
©Jan D’Hondt
©Visit Bruges
Traditional beer bars
Bruges has plenty of traditional beer bars with extensive beer lists. Why not try out Brugs Beertje, Cambrinus, De Garre (photo), Duvelorium, Café Vlissinghe, Rose Red, De Bierboom… or one of the many others? See https://www.visitbruges.be/en/cafes for a list
Bruges Beer Experience
An interactive experience and a chance to learn all about beer: how it’s made, how to choose the right beer for your meal, beer in Bruges, … and more. The Kids Tour tells the story of Bruges Beer for the younger members of the family. After the tour, head to the bar to sample the beer. www.mybeerexperience. com
Brasserie Surplace
Cycling is in our blood. At Brasserie SurPlace, racing permeates the atmosphere. Try out Belgian classics chased by regional speciality beers – fresh from the cask, with a thick head of foam. (Sint-Amandsstraat 24, Bruges) www.brasserie-surplace.be
B&B Brouwhuys
Stay in a delightfully restored home next door to Fort Lapin Brewery. Every Saturday between 10am and 6pm you can sample the brewery’s beers in the Tasting Room. (Koolkerkse Steenweg 34, Bruges) www.brouwhuys.com
More Bruges tips
Bruges has a fantastic selection of bars, restaurants, places to stay, breweries and other touristic delights.
