14 minute read
Beer and bikes with the Hoppy Beer Ladies
by Westtoer
White wine? No... pour out a Poperinge beer!
The hop landscape is bathed in sun, we’re feeling fit as fiddles – and we’re thirsty. It’s the perfect moment for a day of cycling around breweries, hop businesses and typical beer bars in the Poperinge area. We wonder if the Hoppy Beer Ladies would like to act as guides? The ladies don’t have to be asked twice!
BY ELISE VANHECKE FOTO’S JOKE COUVREUR
We agree to meet in the Hopmuseum in Poperinge. ‘We’ is photographer Joke, myself and five of the six committee members from the Hoppy Beer Ladies, a ladies-only beer club. “No, we’re not a drinking club”, Caroline Bequoye, one of the founders, assures us. “We’re connoisseurs.” “We look, sniff, and taste.” The Hopmuseum is their usual haunt, so it’s no surprise that they chose it for the start of our route. In this centre for hops and beer, you can read all about the history of hops and how they are processed into beer. But what the Beer Ladies are keen to show us is the Beer Wall, with over 2,500 types of beer on display. That certainly sets the tone! It’s time to hop in the saddle... Oh well – perhaps we have time for a quick taster. Shirley D’hooghe unlocks the doors at ‘her’ pub, Plukker Pub. It’s not quite 10am yet, but the Keikoppen beer is always kept cold here. “It is quite early, we’re not used to this”, laughs Griet D’hooghe. Plukker Pub is the brewpub linked to De
Plukker, a brewery founded by organic hop farmer Joris, in partnership with brewer Kris – Shirley’s husband. We settle on the terrace, looking over at the Hopmuseum. “I got into beer through Kris”, confides Shirley. “I never used to drink beer, but now I’m a total convert. The scent of the hop – there’s just nothing like it.” Every year during the hop-picking, De Plukker brews its Single Green with hops fresh from the field. “On brewing day, Kris is there brewing and Joris is out picking. The damp hops go straight into the brew kettle. You can’t get it fresher!” Now it really is time to set off. We follow the route from Poperinge to Vleteren, the junctions having been hastily noted down on a beer mat.
A PINT AND A PICON
We ride towards the woods of Helleketelbos and I marvel at the landscape glowing with green hop vines. Westhoek at its best! When we spot the Helleketel on the horizon, that’s just the cherry on the cake. Or perhaps we should say: the foaming head on a perfectly poured local beer. This traditional bar (founded in 1895) is a great spot for cyclists and hikers to relax and refuel. The seats on the terrace, in front of the white façade with its blue shutters, are the perfect place for sampling a Poperinge beer, or a Picon – the house speciality, which comes as no surprise when we consider how close we are to the French border. Lena creates the atmosphere and a boerestutte, or farmhouse platter, would surely stave off any hunger pangs... if only we had time. We drain our glasses and spring back onto our mounts, noses turned towards Brewery Sint-Bernardus, where the new wing built in 2018 boasting three-sixty panoramic views from the ‘Bar Bernard’ rooftop bar is a magnet for visitors.
LIFT TO BEER HEAVEN
“This is my happy place!”, declares Caroline. Alongside her job at Toerisme Poperinge, she started giving guided tours of the brewery a few years ago, and loves it. Anouska likewise knows Sint-Bernardus like the back of her hand. The ladies are clearly experts and in fact they both took the same brewing course. Guided tours are currently on hold until the brand-new visitor centre opens in 2023. So instead we take the lift straight to beer heaven: Bar Bernard, where a fresh St Bernardus Triple is waiting for us, and where we can stretch out our legs a moment on the glorious terrace. Looking over the green hopfields, of course!
HOPPY BEER LADIES
Hilde Rabaey Anouska Goossens Shirley D’hooghe Griet D’hooghe Caroline Bequoye and Kristel Logie (not pictured)
STRONG WOMEN AND TASTY BEER “We all live in Poperinge, the metropolis of hops and beer”, explain the Hoppy Beer Ladies. “Since the Poperinge beer club wanted to stay men-only, we decided to just set up our own. We love beer and we’re happy to pay tribute to women. For example, we recently held an evening with the theme ‘beer brewed by women and beer named after women.’ Our own little beer festival... and who knows what might come of it next!” “And now we’ll set a good pace for the next few kilometres”, declares Caroline. We follow her around the bends, up hill and down dale, until eventually we spot the church towers of Proven in the distance: our next destination! Finding hop producers ‘t Hoppecruyt tucked away opposite the churchyard is a surprise. The village square is in front of the farmhouse. If you walk through it, past the drying kiln, you come out in over 10 ha of hopfields. “The first hops were grown here in 1893”, Benedikte tells us proudly. And it looks as though the story is set to continue for many years yet, since her “son Roel must be the youngest hop farmer in the area.” These are generations of passionate farmers, who have kept updating their production, and have made a conscious decision to farm organically. We see Zwartbles sheep ambling among the vines, making a gourmet meal of the weeds and hop leaves. But didn’t we mention that it’s a thirsty sort of day? We make our way to the guest table in the colourful garden, where Benedikte promptly appears and pours us glasses of Cristal Extra – and of course new pilsner with a fresh splash of lemon and hops from Proven. Our legs are starting to feel weary, and so we take it easy as we ride to our last stop: ‘In de Vrede’, the only bar in the world where the famous Westvleteren Trappist beer may be served. It’s the best beer in the world, and connoisseurs find their way here from all over the globe. The terrace here is always busy. “It’s too crowded to be our favourite stop really, but you should at least have been here”, say the Hoppy Beer Ladies. There are no tours of the brewery or Sint-Sixtus Abbey, but there is a footpath starting from the bar and a small woodland with a pilgrimage shrine is within walking distance. We feel our legs have done enough today, and we settle down on the terrace. What a lovely day, and what a friendly bunch the Hoppy Beer Ladies are. I wonder if they have set themselves goals? “We started up six months ago and we’ve already got 24 members – enough to fill a beer crate!” announces Hilde Rabaey as she sips at her Trappist beer. “Our goal now is to put together a great programme for our members with a fun activity every other month. This beer bike ride can certainly be repeated! Shall we have one more for the road?”
Hopspots in Westhoek
Hopfields, breweries, traditional bars, folk games, restaurants with long beer lists... Westhoek has plenty to offer anyone keen on beer.
©Westtoer
De Keukenbrouwerij (Loker)
Are you interested in brewing your own beer? Would you like to learn more about how it’s done? You’ve come to the right place at De Keuken Brewery. Beer brewing workshops are held regularly. Groups of up to 12 people. (Dikkebusstraat 167, Loker) www.dekeukenbrouwerij.be
On tour with... (Westhoek)
Experience the local colour for yourself on a unique circular tour: ‘Brew your own beer in ’t Hopmuseum and take it with you to French Flanders’ (Westhoek Découverte) or ‘Brewery Tour’ (Rondje Westhoek). www.westhoekdecouverte.be www.rondjewesthoek.be
Kaffee Bazaar (Ypres)
Friendly bar with a great ambiance, lots of knickknacks, a garden terrace and a huge selection of over 250 Belgian and international beers. Ratebeer has repeatedly named it one of the best beer bars in Belgium. (Boomgaardstraat 9, Ypres) www.kaffeebazaar.be
Gerst in je glas – De Moare (Dranouter)
In De Moare, on the south side of the Kemmelberg, you’re in the right place for a playful, educational ‘Barley in your glass’ demo. Marvel at the journey of a barley grain from the field to your glass, including two drinks and two food options. From 8 people. (Lettingstraat 60, Dranouter) www.demoare.be
In Den Grooten Moriaen (Wervik)
Try a Bleeken or Brynen Moriaen at the bar or on the terrace of retro hostelry In den Grooten Moriaen, chased by a chunk of smooth Moriaenpaté. (Koestraat 63/A, Wervik) www.indengrootenmoriaen.be
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Bierhuis Basseville (Wulvergem)
Bierhuis Basseville is an atmospheric traditional bar with a vast collection of enamel signs and a 1966 jukebox 1966. You can choose from some 400 local beers, including three brewed by the landlord himself: Wulvergemse Triple, Platte Tuub and T’Amtenaarke. Basseville, Dorpsstraat 2, Wulvergem
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Brouwershuys (Diksmuide)
The better beer bar in Diksmuide with cooled beer tanks on the ceiling and around 100 local beers on the list. Sip a Papegaei or a Dulle Teve and enjoy the views over the Grote Markt from the covered terrace. (Grote Markt 19, Diksmuide) www.brouwershuys.com
Hopmuseum and the Plukker Pub (Poperinge)
Here you can marvel at the collection of over 2,500 Belgian beers, presented in a cabinet running all along the wall and digitised in the ‘Beer Table’. If that makes you feel thirsty, you can sample the Poperinge beers in the Plukker Pub. (Gasthuisstraat 71, Poperinge) www.hopmuseum.be et www.plukker.be
In de Vrede (Vleteren)
Heavenly delights in the shadow of the Sint-Sixtus Abbey. In de Vrede is the only place you can sample the Trappist beer Westvleteren, which has repeatedly been awarded the title of best beer in the world. You can also enjoy a sandwich with Abbey pâté or cheese, or the Poperinge Mazarin torte. (Donkerstraat 13, Vleteren) www.indevrede.be
Øl bar à bière (Ypres)
Øl is a new bar in central Ypres, nestled beneath the Menin Gate. New it may be be, but the bar has traditional ambiance and serves beer from the tank, guaranteeing a great flavour sensation. There are 46 beers on tap. (Menenstraat 41, Ypres) www.tankbier.be
More beer tips in Westhoek: www.toerismewesthoek.be/bierbeleving
Try a Papegaei at Brewery Verstraete. (photo: Westtoer) Visit Brewery De Dolle Brewers, known for its Oerbier (photo: Westtoer)
Cycle trail with nostalgic pubs and breweries new and old
This cycle route in Westhoek starts at the Grote Markt in Diksmuide, takes you to Lo and then on to Alveringem. There are a number of old-fashioned pubs en route where you can rest your legs and sample the local ales.
In fact, before you even set off, fill your tank in the Grote Markt in Diksmuide – the options include De Mane, Brouwershyus, De Vrede and tasting brewery Nachtraaf where you can try their eponymous beer. Your next stop is by junction 58: De Knokkebrug on IJzerdijk 1 is a weekend bar with a great ambiance, located just where the Ieperlee meets the IJzer. Ride on along Vladslo towards Esen, and between junctions 58 and 18 you’ll pass De Dolle Brouwers brewery, known in particular for its Oerbier. On Sundays at 3pm, a guided tour is on offer. The Oerbar is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 2pm to 7pm. After your Oerbier, hop back on your bike and carry on towards Lo. Between junctions 22 and 30, you’ll spot De Engel, a friendly bar with a terrace where you can enjoy a local beer or a homemade Picon. As you head towards Alveringem, you’ll pass junction 44 and Mout- & Brouwhuis De Snoek, a nineteenth century brewery and malthouse. You can try a Snoek beer in the inn. Ride on through the charming village of Lampernisse (junction 46) and from the terrace of Tavern Zannekin, you’ll see the uniquely peaceful lowland countryside extending to the horizon. Perhaps your stomach is starting to growl by now, but you’re just in time for Restaurant Lettenburg (between junctions 53 and 3), where chef Jürgen has a tasty selection of fish dishes. The kids will love the recently renovated play area. Or you could carry on a little way and sample the local cuisine washed down by Diksmuide beer at Water en Vuur, by junction 69. This restaurant is located on the very top floor of former animal feed factory ‘De Polders’. As you make your way back to the Grote Markt along de Grote Dijk, pause by junction 69 to nip into the Papegaeishop linked to Brewery Verstraete, and try a Papegaei, the 8% artisan blond beer.
THE ROUTE Distance: 44,9 km Start: Grote Markt Diksmuide
Follow junctions:
1 69 57 14 58 18 59 92 81 45 21 28 58 11 13 22 30 65 44 94 31 46 23 78 40 53 3 4 88 82 52 48 49 74 75 6 69 1
More cycle routes and beer tips in Westhoek: www.toerismewesthoek.be/ bierbeleving
‘t Oud Postje is in Oostvleteren. (photo: Westtoer) Sint-Arnold bar in Ypres has 25 cask ales. (photo: Westtoer)
Cycle from the Hopmuseum to Ypres’ hippest hop-spots
This route in Westhoek starts from the Hopmuseum in Poperinge – by far the best starting point for immersing yourself in Westhoek’s beer landscape. You’ll ride past the Sint-Sixtus Abbey and on to Ypres. It may be famed for its connection with cats, but Ypres also has plenty to offer when it comes to beer.
Before we start, take a moment to pop into the Hopmuseum. Check out the Belgian beer collection and use the digital Beer Table to learn about the beers. Next, we’ll ride towards Vleteren, stopping off in the friendly folk bar De Legen Doorn between junctions 46 and 42 for a game of boltra, toptafel, or … what’s your favourite? The route takes us on through the hopfields. Just by junction 67, we pass Humulus, a hop producer, and then at junction 98 we reach the Sint-Sixtus Abbey. This is where the heavenly Westvleteren Trappist beer is brewed, and you can sample it at In de Vrede. Our route takes us on via Brewery Deca (between junctions 80 and 74). Recently renovated, this brewery has been operating for over a century. You can visit the new taproom ‘Deca Bar’ on Saturdays from 1pm to 6pm to try a beer in the atmospheric surroundings of the oak casks. Brewery tours can be arranged if you book in advance. Next, we’ll ride towards Boezinge, where Leroy Breweries has its home. Leroy has been around for over four centuries and offers a selection of great quality beers. We’re now coming into Ypres, which boasts numerous bars and pubs. Kaffee Bazaar (Boomgaardstraat 9) has repeatedly been declared one of Belgium’s best beer bars by Ratebeer. In Sint-Arnoldus (Menenstraat 19), you’ll find 25 cask ales and a selection of delicious tasting platters. Øl beer bar (Menenstraat 43) serves all its beer on tap for that perfect flavour sensation. Other recommendations include the traditional ‘brown’ pub 12 Apostels (D’Hondtstraat 19), or Biking Bar (Menenstraat 15). Brewery Kazematten (close to junction 93) is another great stop. The brewery is built in the historic fortifications and is open to visitors from Thursday to Saturday (tasting inclusive). You can enjoy delicious local cuisine in the De Kazematten brasserie. From Ypres, it’s back to Poperinge where there are plenty of fantastic places to wind up your day with a thirst-quencher and tasty local cusine.
THE ROUTE Distance: 46,5 km Start: Hopmuseum, Gasthuisstraat 71, Poperinge
