13 minute read
“Men know why” is a thing of the past 12 Art and brewing go hand in hand at De Leite
by Westtoer
THREE DYNAMIC BREWERS – AND A CAREER CHANGE
“Men know why” is a thing of the past
Over a fresh blond Houtland Weizen, West Flanders brewers Bart Degrande, Stijn David and Thijs Maenhout tell us about striking out in a new direction and their passion for beer. “Watching someone sitting in the sun, drinking your beer is the best thing in the world”, they all agree.
TEXT BIEKE COBBAERT PHOTO DAVY COGHE Bart Degrande welcomes us to his brand-new brewery in Torhout. Everything about it smells new … and of beer. Not long ago, Bart was a professional photographer, but he’s now converted his photography studio into a brewery. “It’s a big investment to make at the age of 55, I know”, laughs Bart. “I didn’t jump into it overnight. But if you have a dream, you shouldn’t just keep dreaming: make it a reality. You know, I always did want to go to beer college.
But my parents didn’t think that was such a good plan. I brought my three children up largely as a single parent, and once the first two had flown the nest, I decided to take the step. The studio mortgage was finally paid off and over the new year I converted it into a brewery. Johan Dhanens, whom I met at a brewing course in Roeselare, joined me and we named our brewery De Houtlandse Brouwers. In 2012, we launched our test brewery and in March 2020, we started brewing full time.” Just like Bart, Thijs Maenhout (42) from Brewery Maenhout in Pittem and Stijn David (47) from Brewery De Poes in Tielt had very different backgrounds before making the switch to the brewing trade. “I trained as a baker and dietician and worked as a civil servant for the government”, says Stijn from De Poes. “I felt stuck in my job and did a course in brewing. Now, instead of spending eight hours a day behind a computer, I’m creating something that makes people happy. It’s hard work, very hard work, but I just love what I’m doing now.”
BIKE SOLD FOR BEER
The brewery’s name is now known throughout the region. But where does that name come from? Meet Watje, the thirteen-year-old member of the David/ Verhelst family, a British shorthair pussy cat – in Dutch, a poes. “She walked through the door, and that was my inspiration.” (laughs) “De Poes was born in 2014. I sold my motorbike to invest in my first beer. It was a case of sink or swim. I was lucky: I didn’t sink. Since 2018, I’ve been brewing full time.” Thijs Maenhout (42) from the Pittem brewery that bears his name still works part-time as a programmer. His wife Birgit is in the brewery full time. “A few years ago, I went through a bit of an identity crisis. In 2009, I started doing what I’d always wanted to do: brew beer. I began in our own kitchen, moved to the garden shed, and then into premises in Meulebeke, and now we have the brewery in Pittem. Birgit also caught the bug and now she knows the world of beer even better than I do myself. I do the brewing, and she does everything else. Our first beer, Koeketiene, is still the one we’ve poured the most pints of. The name refers to the way my wife and I first met: during a game of cards in a youth hostel. Fun fact: koeketine doesn’t just refer to the ten of diamonds in the card game; it’s also a corruption of the French word concubine. But we only discovered that later on... And by then, Koeketine had become a household name, better known than Brewery Maenhout itself. We’re now hoping to pin our brewery even more firmly on the map with the launch of our Ferre beers, named after missionary Ferdinand Verbiest from Pittem.” Beer is ‘in’ these days. Especially if it’s brewed locally. “Beer is making a comeback. It’s not just for the working class man. We’re finding that consumers are looking for regional options and we’re expecting this trend to keep rising. That old slogan “Mannen weten waarom” – “Men know why” – is no longer part of our culture: it’s totally out of date. Today, women are just as likely to know why they like a good pint!”
Left → right: Thijs Maenhout from Brewery Maenhout, Stijn David from De Poes and Bart Degrande from the Houtlandse Brouwers.
www.brouwerijdepoes.be www.brouwerijmaenhout.be www.houtlandsebrouwers.be
ART AND BREWING GO HAND IN HAND AT DE LEITE
Luc Vermeersch is a beer artist and an enthusiastic entrepreneur.
Business, brewing and art. The story of De Leite Brewery reads like a family chronicle, told with plenty of flair by Luc Vermeersch himself: beer artist and enthusiastic entrepreneur.
TEXT ELISE VANHECKE PHOTO JOKE COUVREUR
Love for craft, creation, and – unsurprisingly – brewing flows in the family’s veins. “The Veermeersch are a creative race”, declares Luc Vermeersch (67), who founded De Leite Brewery in Ruddervoorde from nothing back in 2008. True, the seed had been sowed many years before, when he purchased a small brewing kit and brewed beers for friends and family in his garden shed.
FEMME FATALE
“I’m passionate about brewing beer and I love the processes of the craft, but I can’t call myself one of the world’s beer experts. And the same is true for art. However, artist Rik Vermeersch, son of sculptor José Vermeersch, is my cousin. And back when I was still experimenting in my garden shed, Rik said: If you ever produce your own beer, I’ll make the first label for it! That’s just what happened. I was going to name my beer after Jef Kloef, a well-known figure around here, but Rik said he couldn’t live with that.” (laughs) “At that time, his work was centred around the female figure, usually in challenging poses. That’s what inspired the final choice of name: Femme Fatale.”
FAMILY
All the beers brewed at De Leite are part of the family. And every one is bestowed an artistic label, designed by one of the Vermeersch family. “Rik has four sons, all artists. Bon Homme was a tribute to my father, and was designed by Tinus Vermeersch. The love between Femme Fatale and Bon Homme gave birth to Enfant Terriple, with a Robin Vermeersch design. Ma Mère Spéciale was made for my mother and the design is by Pieter Vermeersch. The label for Cuvée Soer’ise bears the face of Tinus’ wife Joke. Cuvée Oncle Pol was a surprise for Uncle Pol, whom I have a special bond with. De Leite really is the story of our family. An advertising firm once suggested rethinking the whole line. They promised me 40% more profit if I dispensed with the art on our beer flasks. I politely declined. My respect for the art and love for my family are just too important to me.
ACQUISITION OF PALJAS
Recently, Luc Vermeersch acquired the Bruges beer Paljas. In other words, the ‘De Leite’ family has been extended, although the brands will still keep their own identity and character, complementing each other. “I don’t really have a commercial mindset and profit isn’t what’s important to me. What I want first and foremost is to make people happy, with a good beer and a story that we feel passionate about. Creating, making and sharing: those are what’s important to me.”
Hopspots in the Bruges hinterlands
The green spaces of the Bruges hinterlands have nurtured numerous delightful bars, craft breweries, places to eat, and more.
©Jan D’Hondt
Beers Bulnas Campa (Beernem)
In collaboration with the Vliegende Paard brewers, De Kruiderie has developed two Bulnas Campa beers based on its own herbs, including lemon verbena. Bulnas Campa is a reference to to Bulscampveld. The beer can be bought in De Kruiderie (Bulscampveld 12) or sampled at Urbancafé Lippensgoed (Bulscampveld 10). www.dekruiderie.be, www.urbancafé.be
Siphon Brewing (Damme)
Restaurant Siphon in Damme is famed for its fresh eel in vegetables. But you might not know that it’s also home to Siphon Brewing. Three of the brewery’s cask beers – Blinker, Damme Nation, and Cassandra – are sold in the restaurant, and complement the menu perfectly. (Damse Vaart-Oost 1, Damme) www.siphon.be
De Zevende Hemel (Beernem)
Nostalgic beer bar with extensive beer list and delicious cakes in the centre of Beernem. Enjoy West Flanders beers, watched over by large-as-life statues of saints. (Stationsplein 5, Beernem)
Knotwilg (Oostkerke)
What goes perfectly with a great local beer? A great social atmosphere and a few games! De Knotwilg, a food-and-games café, has you covered with a wide range of folk games. Try out their ‘barbecue and folk games’ deal! (Sint-Kwintensstraat 12, Oostkerke) www.deknotwilgoostkerke.be
’t Spaans Tolhuis (Oudenburg)
Ancient toll booth on the Bruges-Ostend canal. Friendly beer garden during renovations (open from April to October). A great place for cyclists, walkers and boaters to take a breather with a fresh local beer. (Vaartdijk-Zuid 12, Oudenburg) www.spaanstolhuis.be
©Westtoer
Meet the brewer
You’ll find a great selection of regional beers in the Bruges hinterlands. Several days a year, passionate brewers throw open their doors and give the public an opportunity to learn about how their beer came to be. Of course, every visit ends with a tasting session. www.brugseommeland.be/ open-brouwerij-wijngaard
©Westtoer
’t Een en ’t ander (Tielt)
A small traditional village shop in Schuiferskapelle has been combined with a friendly bar and terrace, boasting an extensive drinks menu with all kinds of regional ales and beers on tap. There is also a selection of food options. Ideal stop for cyclists! (Schuiferskapelle-Dorp 3, Tielt) www.teenentanderkapelle.be
Rembrandt: regional beer specialist (Zedelgem)
Rembrandt specialises in offering regional beers with food, and with no less than 150 beers on the menu, it deserves its reputation as a traditional Flemish hostelry. You can also try a variety of beer patés, or a selection of farmhouse platters for the hungry. (Torhoutsesteenweg 164, Zedelgem) www.streekbierenkaffeerembrandt.be
Salon-bar Perle d’Ozette (Oedelem)
Head into the heart of the Bruges hinterlands for this tiny homely pub, where you’re surrounded by vintage curios and modern elements woven into a unique homely atmosphere. The pub offers a selection of local beers from the menu and from the cask. Snacks and more substantial options include local meat platters with terrine, white pudding (sausage), black pudding, and more (Oudezakstraat 14, Beernem) www.perledeozette.be
Bar-bistrot Mout (Damme)
A gastro bistro bar in a no-nonsense setting. A unique sharing concept in a microbrewery. Enjoy fine dining with a front-row seat of the experiments and trial brews by De Damse Brouwers. (Jacob van Maerlantstraat 7, Damme) www.moutdamme.be
More tips: www.brugseommeland.be
Take a rest along the ‘Groene 62’. (photo: Westtoer) Our starting point is restaurant ‘t Oosthof in Snellegem (photo: Westtoer)
Ride through nature with stops at traditional bars
This cycle route starts in Snellegem (Jabbeke) and chains together number of traditional watering holes in the Bruges hinterlands. You’ll cycle along quiet routes surrounded by nature, with views of impressive castles typical of the region. When you get thirsty or peckish, never fear: there are plenty of great places to stop and revitalise.
Our starting point is restaurant ’t Oosthof, a historic farmhouse that can trace its roots back to 941. We can highly recommend the stoofvlees – a Flemish stew – with Ichtegem’s Oud Bruin beer and Wostyn mustard. After passing junction 76, you’ll see Den Heirweg, a cyclists’ café. It’s a great stop if you love Trappist beers as the landlord is an ardent ambassador for Orval. From junction 63, we’ll ride past a number of famous castles in the Bruges hinterlands: first the enchanting d’Aertrycke Castle; later Wijnendale with its famous woods. After that, we’ll head into Ichtegem, perhaps pausing at Strubbe Brewery just by junction 73. Seven generations of Strubbes have managed this brewery… so far. At Ichtegem market, we’ll find De Hert folk café, a must for any cyclist. You can spend hours there studying the cycling curios. Landlord Dirk will be happy to tell you their stories. From junction 30, our route runs along Groene 62, a green cycleway on the old railway line between Torhout and Ostend. In De Buuzestove (at junction 30), you can taste a Kasseileggers beer. In Gistel, we’ll see if we have time to stop in at de Oostmolensite (De Molenhoeve) by junction 63 for bite to eat or a drink. If the weather’s nice, the terrace is a great place to sit. When we reach the Roman Archaeological Museum in Oudenburg, we’ll find the Sint-Arnoldus Visitor Centre on the ground floor (Arnoldus is the patron saint of brewers): a slice of beer heritage. We make our way back to Snellegem past the Hoge Dijken nature reserve, stopping to order one for the road in traditional estaminet Alain provist, or the Belgian ‘brown pub’ Snelle Duve with its dove theme.
THE ROUTE Distance : 52,2 km
Start and free parking:
Oostmoerstraat, Snellegem
Follow junctions:
76 96 77 53 63 70 74 13 73 3 9 30 34 42 48 63 13 58 94 60 62 2 82 38 45 35 44 54 71 76
Find more beer trails for foot or bike (with or without guide) in the Bruges hinterlands: www.brugseommeland.be/ lekker-fietsen
Beer and bites (2)
West Flanders has many bistros and restaurants who love to match the right beer to the right meal, and pride themselves on an extensive beer list.
©Michael Dehaspe
Goeste (Poperinge)
At the Poperinge market, you can enjoy a threecourse lunch with local delicacies for €18. Goeste’s extensive beer list is entirely filled with beers from Westhoek. You can even try a beer icecream from their in-house ice cream studio. (Grote Markt 28, Poperinge) www.goestepoperinge.be
©Westtoer
Beer restaurant Heerlijk (Ostend)
Beer restaurant Heerlijk has over 40 Trappist beers: that’s the biggest selection of Trappist beers in the world. The chef is passionate about experimenting with beer for cooking. Try the seasonal menu, which changes every month. Teamed with a suitable beer, of course. (Nieuwpoortsesteenweg 893, Ostend) www.bierrestaurantheerlijk.be
’t Hellegat (Heuvelland)
The beer list at ’t Hellegat is largely comprised of local beers and beer sommelier Sofie Vanrafelghem had a hand in putting it together. Why not try a local stew, the rondstoofvlees, washed down with a SintBernandus Prior? (Rodebergstraat 39, Heuvelland) www.thellegat.be
Brasserie Surplace (Bruges)
Brasserie SurPlace has cycling in its blood and racing permeates the atmosphere here. Try out Belgian classics chased by regional speciality beers – fresh from the cask, with a thick head of foam. (SintAmandsstraat 24, Bruges) www.brasserie-surplace.be
De Hofnar (Gullegem-Wevelgem)
De Hofnar is more than just a coffee shop. Gabi and beer expert Frank will pick out the perfect beer to soak up your freshly made lunch or homemade dessert. If you’re lucky, you might even arrive in time for a beer tasting session. (Kon. Fabiolastraat 26, Gullegem-Wevelgem) www.hofnargullegem.be
©Westtoer
Michelle’s Pub & Brasserie (Izegem)
Michelle’s Pub & Brasserie has an impressive row of taps with 29 speciality beers from Kasteel Brewery Vanhonsebrouck, while the varied brasserie menu has a range of delicious options with something to suit every beer. (Ingelmunstersestraat 46, Izegem) www.vanhonsebrouck.be
’t Werftje (Zeebruges)
The oldest bar on the Zeebrugge coast was extensively renovated in 2015. Try delicacies from the sea, washed down with a fresh pint. The prawn croquettes here have won numerous awards and are the perfect pairing for a Rodenbach from the cask. (Werfkaai 29, Bruges) www.twerftje.be
Brewery ’t Gaverhopke (Waregem)
Wander into the eighteenth century Goed te Nieuwenhove park and you’ll find Brewery ’t Gaverhopke: a great place to try the beer brewed on the same site. The brasserie menu features cuisine with the brewery beers, for example a stew stoofpotje ‘Den Twaalf’ and the ‘Zingende Blondine’ fish bake. (Platanendreef 16, Waregem) www.tgaverhopke.be
More tasty tips:
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