Where Milan n 121 November 2020

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

NOVEMBER 2020

W W W.WHEREMIL AN.COM

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY TIPS ON LUXURY SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT HOW TO ENJOY YOUR WINE TASTING IN ITALY

JUMP INTO FRIDA’S VISION

The life, art and torment of Frida Kahlo in a new multimedia exhibition

米兰旅行免费指南

扫码使用体验 米兰小程序

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

M I L A N O, P I A Z Z A D U O M O 2 5 - R O C C A 1 7 9 4 . C O M

BELLE EPOQUE COLLECTION DAMIANI.COM

Milan November 2020 58

the guide

SIGHTSEEING

30 SHOPPING

In the heart of Brera, the past and present of Italia Independent meet in its new Flagship Store.

54 DINING

®

W W W.WHEREMIL AN.COM

NOVEMBER 2020

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

Contents 4 TOP IN TOWN

TIPS ON LUXURY SHOPPING, DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT

JUMP INTO FRIDA’S VISION The life, art and torment of Frida Kahlo in a new multimedia exhibition

米兰旅行免费指南

扫码使用体验 米兰小程序

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

COVER IMAGE Frida Kahlo, Self-portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird (1940). © Banco de México Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo Museums Trust, México D.F.

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions and several not to be missed districts.

10 DISCOVER AND ENJOY Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates, celebrating music, technology and art.

And don't miss this season's photographic exhibitions.

16 NEW OPENINGS www.wheremilan.com www.magzter.com Digital magazine store www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on Twitter @WhereMilan Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan Follow us on Instagram @where_milan Watch us on YouTube

Keep up-to-date with the latest luxury openings in the city.

18 OPEN-AIR

CONTEMPORARY ART A walk around parks, gardens public spaces in search of contemporary artworks.

22 VIRTUAL TOURS

OF ITALIAN MUSEUMS There are many ways to discover the cultural offer in Italy: online, of course!

26 TRUFFLES AND WINE, HEAVEN ON EARTH

A favourite of the most refined palates, the truffle gives a unique touch to every dish and succesds in creating a perfect marriage of food and wine.

Discover our selection of the best Italian labels.

34 TOP BRANDS The best fashion designers in Milan for your high-end shopping.

48 FASHION AND DESIGN OUTLETS

Don’t miss a trip to the city’s outlying fashion outlets, just a few kilometres from Milan.

51 A FEW STEPS FROM MILAN…

Discover our pick of several destinations for an unmissable out-of-town trip.

56 ENTERTAINMENT

Combo, an old banister house in the Navigli district, has been transformed into a multi-functional space.

58 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

One of the focal points of Renaissance in Milan, the Raphael’s Cartoon, is on show at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana.

60 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Milan has to offer.

» MAP PAGE 62-63 Isola Chinatown & Porta Paolo Sarpi San Siro Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

WHAT TO DO

MILAN CITY GUIDE

HOW TO ENJOY YOUR WINE TASTING IN ITALY

Italia Independent

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 1 LAK OF

10

SHOPPING

VIA PORL E

30

Discover the Mi View Restaurant in the Portello district, offering a breathtaking view and a refined cuisine.

VIA

MA

F

DISCOVER

ENJOY

CITY GUIDE www.whereitalia.com

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Milan ®

EDITORIAL WELCOME TO ITALY

M A G A Z I N E

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano.

T: +39 02 25063100 info@proedimedia.com www.wheremilan.com

We’ve been here for centuries.

We’re waiting for you.

Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

The recent pandemic has severely affected one

www.wheremilan.com PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com

Recommended by

MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com

MILANO LOVES YOU

of the linchpins of the global economy – the Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Metro Map and Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020, Mario Camerini COO

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com

centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war,

Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users.

Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best

ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto amministrazione@proedimedia.com

equipped in the world.

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com

only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was

HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Marta Mailhac marta.mailhac@proedimedia.com

a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in

CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com

the creation of Italy.

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE MILAN È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI MILANO, CON 20.100 CAMERE WHERE MILAN IS AVAILABLE IN MILAN'S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS, FOR THE GUESTS OF THE 20,100 ROOMS AVAILABLE www.wheremilan.com/distribution

Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

editorial could be very depressing, but remember

we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for

once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world.

CARTOGRAPHY

Morris Visitor Publications

in available revenue at the time of writing this

famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to

ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock

MVP

tourism industry. The closing of borders and drop

So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance…

Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance!

The Publisher

>> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com

IV w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in Town 15 12

© MARCOCIANNAREL/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

3

6

MARCO BRESCIA © TEATRO ALLA SCALA

6

DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”.

It houses a number of interesting museums 4 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently

one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala.

In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4

SEE MAP PAGE 62

© ALIAKSANDR ANTANOVICH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

1

© ALEMASCHE72/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

7

BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years

ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots.

Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola

districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.

Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras.

Map E1 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

LANDMARK | OUTSIDE

THE DUOMO'S TERRACES OVERLOOKING THE CITY

6 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

− After crossing the threshold of its 18th century façade in Candoglia marble, the interior of the Cathedral is revealed in all its majesty. One of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed over a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol of Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the largest of which measures 45 metres in height. Its inside columns measure 3 and a half metres in diameter.

The interior boasts an apse with a large rose − window, stained glass windows decorated with episodes from the Bible, chapels and high marble columns with capitals featuring statues of saints.

To experience the Duomo at its most majestic − you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden “Madonnina”.

Here you can wander among 135 spires and 3,400 statues.

Guided tours for small groups help visitors − learn about the secrets behind the Duomo’s construction. The tour starts from the back of the choir which leads to the Crypt housing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, and then moves on to the Archaeological Area where you’ll find the remains of the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti, dating back to 397 A.D. This is where Sant’Ambrogio christened St. Augustine. Next is the old Basilica of Santa Tecla (4th century).

Before accessing the Cathedral and its treasures, − visit the nearby Museo del Duomo, located inside Palazzo Reale. The museum houses more than 150 masterpieces from the 15th century to the present time, including statues, architectural models, plaster casts, terracottas and paintings.

If you’re on a tight schedule but want to learn − more about the secrets of the Duomo, you can take advantage of the new Duomo Milano App for smartphones, featuring images and content in 9 languages including Italian, English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese. www.duomomilano.it PH © VENERANDA FABBRICA DEL DUOMO

w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

LANDMARK | INSIDE

BIBLIOTECA BRAIDENSE

AN “IDEAL LIBRARY” IN THE CITY

8 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

The Biblioteca Braidense − is a place dedicated to initiatives, projects and exhibitions aimed at promoting reading and the book as an object of art, and has consolidated its reputation as an “ideal library” in the city. The library was commissioned by Maria Theresa of Austria in 1786, and has represented a place of cultural exchange for the city of Milan since it first opened.

It is the third largest − library in Italy, due to its volume of publications, and has a collection of, 1,500,000 books, including 2,000 manuscripts, 350 of which date back to medieval times, 2,306 incunabula and 25,000 sixteenth century editions.

The collection also − includes catalogues, religious books housed in the reading room, a rare collection of letters and first editions by Alessandro Manzoni, plus objects and manuscripts that belonged to Italian novelist Lalla Romano.

Its magnificent Neo− classical rooms, which contain historic books of immeasurable value, feature

the library’s original wooden shelves and furnishings, crystal chandeliers, frescoed ceilings, and a collection of antique paintings that transcend the traditional concept of a library, creating an environment that encourages the promotion of the book as an object of art.

The Biblioteca Braidense − is an international reference point for initiatives, projects and exhibitions, all aimed at safeguarding and promoting reading and the book per se, with a particular emphasis on the concept of preservation and cataloguing.

Until November 14, 2020, − the Biblioteca Braidense (Sala Maria Teresa) dedicates to Giovan Battista Piranesi, the greatest engraver in the history of Italian art, an exhibition that showcases an extraordinary collection of 97 works including catalogs, drawings, engravings, books, paintings, as well as 66 documentary photographs and two videos that testify to the link between Piranesi and the city of Milan, where the artist has never been. www.braidense.it

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

DISCOVER AND ENJOY Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, music and design or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

10 OCTOBER 2020 - 28 MARCH 2021

MULTIMEDIA The spiritual, artistic and human sides of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo are explored by this exhibition thanks to a multi-sensory technological display. With reproductions of Kahlo’s works and letters, the exhibition offers visitors a chance to enter the spaces where the famous painter lived. Moreover, objects, clothes and elements which are part of the Mexican tradition help discover insightful highlights on her daily life and on the artist’s relationship with lover Diego Rivera.

After entering a special multimedia section featuring animated images, the exhibition continues with a reconstruction of the bedroom, the studio and the garden at Kahlo’s Casa Azul, in Mexico.

Another section features letters to her husband Diego Rivera are the protagonist of a dedicated section, intertwined with elements of the Mexican tradition and art. Don’t miss the original works by Frida, such as “Piden Aeroplanos y les dan Alas de Petate” from 1938.

FRIDA KAHLO. Il caos dentro Fabbrica del Vapore. Via Procaccini, 4. mostrafridakahlo.it 10 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

© BANCO DE MÉXICO DIEGO RIVERA & FRIDA. KAHLO MUSEUMS TRUST, MÉXICO D.F.

THE LIFE, ART AND TORMENT OF FRIDA KAHLO

26 NOVEMBER 2020 - 28 MARCH 2021

► ARTIFICIAL FELLOW CREATURES

EXHIBITION The adventure of robotics is a fascinating story, that the Mudec broaches in an exhibition that places the human being at the centre of its itinerary and his relationship with the robot between past, present and future. The public will meet the ancestors of the humanoid robots, ancient technical masterworks, the cyborgs, the androids and the emotional robots of today, revealing to the public the concrete results achieved so far, the extraordinary technological developments and the frontiers of robotics and of bionics. Don’t miss the Cobots section (“collaborative robots”), that can recognize and provide emotions and that are distinguished by social usefulness and acceptability, an example of successful collaboration in the fight against Covid-19.

PH MARCO BRESCIA © TEATRO ALLA SCALA

PH BRESCIA E AMISANO © TEATRO ALLA SCALA

ROBOT. The Human Project MUDEC Museo delle Culture. Via Tortona, 56. www.mudec.it

David Coleman

3, 5, 6, 11, 13, 18 NOVEMBER

▲ GISELLE, ROMANTIC BALLET PAR EXCELLENCE DANCE A story of love, betrayal and redemption between merry village festivities and the ghostly flock of the fascinating but ruthless Wilis, Giselle continues to move audiences with its charming narrative and the moving performance of its protagonists.

Animating the contrast between a bright and cheerful world and a dark, frightful kingdom populated by spirits, Coralli and Perrot’s unforgettable romantic ballet returns in the rendition of Yvette Chauviré, who – through the refined precision of roles like Giselle – has succeeded in exalting the purity of the classical tradition and

making it famous around the globe. Protagonist of recent seasons at Teatro alla Scala and international tours Giselle is also staged as a tribute to Yvette Chauviré, an extraordinary artist who recently passed away. The musical accompaniment will be entrusted to the Orchestra of the Teatro alla Scala, conducted by David Coleman.

Giselle Teatro alla Scala. Via Filodrammatici, 2. www.teatroallascala.org

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11

► HOMAGE TO A CONTEMPORARY ARTIST

ART A courageous and experimental woman who, at a time when developments in painting were dominated by men, became the first internationally recognized Italian abstractionist: Carla Accardi expressed herself in a vital visual horizon clustered with stylistic comparisons, often associated with younger artists.

The layout unfolds with a selection of works – paintings, sculptures and installations – notable not only for their aesthetic qualities, but also as a record of her participation in important exhibitions.

PH © BENEDETTO PATERA

9 OCTOBER 2020 – 27 JUNE 2021

PH © ROBERTO PINI

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

CARLA ACCARDI. Contesti Museo del Novecento.

Piazza Duomo, 8 www.museodelnovecento.org

19 OCTOBER 2020 – 10 JANUARY 2021

THE MASTER OF SUSPENSE

OUT OF TOWN The Arengario in Monza presents 70 photographs plus special contents coming from the archives of the US Major taking the public backstage for the most important films by that great director of suspense films Alfred Hitchcock. The exhibition itinerary enables us to discover the curious details involved in the creation of his most famous scenes, the use of the first special effects, the actors and the private life of the English director. First and foremost Psycho (1960), one of his most controversial works, which succeeded in beating all records for box office takings and made the audience flee from the auditoriums in panic, which this year celebrates the sixtieth anniversary of its cinema release. Then Rear Window, The Birds, Vertigo and many others. A part of the exhibition is also devoted to the music from some of his films, including that by Bernard Herrmann.

PHOTOS © UNIVERSAL PICTURES

12 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

ALFRED HITCHCOCK. Nei film della Universal Pictures Monza (20 km from Milan) – Arengario, Piazza Roma. www.vidicultural.com

30 JANUARY 2020 - 10 JANUARY 2021

PRECIOUS DECORATIONS

PH © DSL STUDIO

PH NICCOLÒ QUARESIMA E ROSDIANA CIARAVOLO

COLLECTIONS Fondazione Prada’s elegant, unusual project gathers more than 1,700 rare Chinese export porcelains, created between the 16th and 19th centuries for different markets, and explores their historical context and scope. This beautiful display, conceived as a room within a room, features an intimate central space decorated in gold. The exhibition is on view on the 4th floor of the Torre, which houses important contemporary art installations from the Foundation’s permanent collection, which alone is worth a visit.

The Porcelain Room. Chinese Export Porcelain Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco, 2.. www.fondazioneprada.org

PERMANENT EXHIBITION

► ATLAS, AN EVOLVING PROJECT

Inside 5 exhibition levels of Torre, project “Atlas” hosts works from the Prada Collection displayed in a sequence of environments incorporating solos and confrontations, created through assonances or contrasts, between artists such as Carla Accardi and Jeff Koons, Walter De Maria, Michael Heizer and Pino Pascali, William N. Copley and Damien Hirst, John Baldessari and Carsten Höller.

In this photo: Tulips (1995-2004)

by Jeff Koons, a bouquet of large coloured stainless steel flowers, part of the “Celebration” series.

Atlas Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco, 2. www.fondazioneprada.org w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

A TRIBUTE TO photography Don’t miss this season’s protographic exhibitions dedicated to great figures: from renowned fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh to a great woman, Margaret Bourke-White, emblematic protagonist of photojournalism in the XX century.

22 FEBRUARY – 10 JANUARY 2021

THE UNMISTAKABLE AESTHETIC OF LINDBERGH

This exhibition, curated personally by Giorgio Armani, offers an extraordinary overview of the work of renowned photographer, Peter Lindbergh. The exhibition is divided into three themes: portraits of “The Naked Truth”, the powerful ambience of “Heimat”, and images of “The Modern Heroine”. The photographer’s unique viewpoint, his idea of space and beauty, his unmistakable aesthetics and his sources of inspiration are revealed in a journey that goes way beyond the usual concept of fashion photography.

Heimat. A Sense of Belonging ARMANI/SILOS. Via Bergognone, 40 www.armanisilos.com 14 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

30 SEPTEMBER – 18 DECEMBER

PH © ROBERTO PINI

▼ HISTORY AND DREAMS

25 SEPTEMBER – 14 FEBRUARY 2021

The exhibition compares a series of precious vintage 19th-century albumen prints with recent, unusual, colourful examples of digital processing by US photographer and artist Bill Armstrong. Here the first views of Italy that photography gave us - the Duomo in Milan, Piazza San Marco in Venice or the Colosseum - are compared with Armstrong’s contemporary visions, which he has worked on to offer a new interpretation, a colourful and profound game with which to rethink the territory and, at the same time, the history of photography.

LA PROSSIMA IMMAGINE. (THE NEXT IMAGE). Albumen prints from the Fondo Antonetto and examples of digital processing by Bill Armstrong to look back at landscape Forma Meravigli. Via Meravigli, 5. www.formafoto.it

UNCONVENTIONAL LIFE

The exhibition features, in an entirely new selection, the most extraordinary photographs taken by Margaret Bourke-White, one of the most representative and emblematic figures of photojournalism. Next to the photographs, a series of personal documents and images, videos and autobiographical texts, tell the personality of a great woman, her vision and her countercurrent life. Over 100 images from “Life” archive in New York trace the thread of the existential path of Margaret Bourke-White and show her visionary and narrative ability, able to compose dense and dazzling photographic “stories”.

After Francis Frith, Piramide II, 2016 (Piramidi di Giza da sud-ovest, 1858) © Bill Armstrong

Prima, donna. Margaret Bourke-White Palazzo Reale. Piazza Duomo, 12 www.palazzorealemilano.it Margaret Bourke-White at work on the Chrysler building, New York City, 1934 © Oscar Graubner Courtesy Estate of Margaret Bourke White.

9 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER

PH © ARCHIVIO PUBLIFOTO INTESA SANPAOLO

◄ THE MIRACLE OF REBIRTH

From among over 3,300 photographs from the Publifoto Archive portraying Milan bombed during the Second World War, Mario Calabresi, curator of the exhibition, has selected 70 images of eleven locations symbolising the city – including the Cenacolo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Sant'Ambrogio, Brera, the State University and Piazza Fontana – that were devastated by the 1943 air strikes.

The images present a city that is destroyed yet courageous at the same time, crucial snapshots representing pride and the capacity to be reborn. With the historical testimony of such dramatic events, the exhibition is intended, despite the great difference in origins, situations and effects compared to that historical period, to be a stimulus for the current relaunch of a city that has been rendered almost unrecognizable by the Covid-19 epidemic.

“Ma noi ricostruiremo”. La Milano bombardata del 1943 nell’Archivio Publifoto Intesa Sanpaolo Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala. Piazza della Scala, 6. www.gallerieditalia.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15

[ W H AT ' S O N I N T H E C I T Y]

New Openings Piaget at Pisa Orologeria The “Possession” collection by Piaget, the symbol of elegance and research, finds its perfect setting in the Jewellery Room on the second floor of the Flagship Store of Pisa Orologeria, a point of reference for fine watchmaking in Italy. The historic Swiss fine watchmaking and jewellery brand has chosen to present this collection in the spaces of Via Verri, a collection that came about with the iconic ring characterised by a central band that is free to rotate, with “half-moon” set diamond. Today the “Possession” collection is also made up of colourful bracelets, earrings and collier necklaces. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 7. T: 02 762081.

M3 Montenapoleone-M1 San Babila. Map F4

Save the Duck

PHOTOS © JACOPO SALVI

The 100% animal free duvet brand (which therefore does not use goose feathers or other components derived from animals) has inaugurated its second store in Milan after the opening of its first single-brand store in Via Solferino two years ago. With great attention devoted to the theme of sustainability, Save the Duck is oriented towards a clientele that is attentive to care for animals and the environment, also engaging with the new generations through the use of new technologies. In the store in Via Dante, in fact, it is possible to try out “virtual remote shopping”, which enables customers to choose and order from home the items on display in the store. www.savetheduck.it. Via Dante, 3. T: 02 43414482. M1 Cordusio. Map F4

Al Mercato Steaks & Burgers From the experience of Italian-American chef Eugenio Roncoroni comes this venue from the historic Milanese name “Al Mercato”. The new concept of “quality in simplicity” is what characterises both the location and its cuisine, of Franco-American inspiration, with suggestions gleaned from the various cuisines of the world. Meat, cooked according to the old school of US steakhouses but raised to a level of excellence, becomes the undisputed protagonist of the menu. www.al-mercato.it. Via Sant’Eufemia, 16. T: 02 87237167. M3 Crocetta. Map F5 16 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Zimmermann For its launch in Milan, the Australian women’s clothing brand has chosen Via Santo Spirito: a boutique designed by Australian architect Don McQuarter, who has given the shop and its furnishings a touch of style in tune with the brand’s aesthetics.

The Milan store is the second point-of-sale in Italy after Capri.

Co-founded by sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann, the womenswear label offering clothes of hippie chic inspiration and diva costumes is worn by celebrities such as Halle Berry and Beyonce. www.zimmermannwear.com. Via Santo Spirito, 19.

T: 02 30452886. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

www.angelacaputi.com ph. alessandrobencini.com

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

Open-air Contemporary Art

18 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Triennale Milano PH © GIANLUCA DI IOIA

Not just museums and art galleries! This season in Milan offers the ideal opportunity to discover a concept of culture that is somewhat outside the box. A walk around parks, gardens and public spaces in search of contemporary artworks in the open air is a valid - and no less fascinating - alternative for those who don’t have time for a visit to the traditional places of culture. BY GIULIA MINERO w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

I

n a city as cosmopolitan and open to innovation as Milan, it is no surprise that art finds a place even in unconventional locations, in dialogue with nature and urban architectures, blending in with them. Thanks to the Ministry for Cultural Heritage and Activities and Tourism, which has carried out an official mapping of public art in Italy, now those who love spending a pleasant time outside and who don’t have time on their side can find the visiting experience to suit them, to discover the sites of contemporary art in Milan.

“Needle, Thread and Knot” PIAZZA CADORNA

Places that are at a distance from each other, such as the fountain and the square of Cadorna Station, are joined together virtually by a yellow, red and green needle and knotted thread, a metaphor for the lines of the Milanese underground, which connected up the city as early as the 1990s. This is the meaning of the imposing work by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen that is visible outside Cadorna railway station.

PH © MICHELANGELOOP/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘Egg’

PIAZZA GAE AULENTI A glass ogival structure designed by Alberto Garutti at the foot of the UniCredit Tower reveals 23 chromed brass tubes, which, almost like long trumpets, create communication - also in sound terms - between different storeys of the building that are apparently distant and without any relationship with each other.

Piazza Gae Aulenti

20 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

PH © DIZFOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza Affari

PH © BALAZSSEBOK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza Cadorna

PIAZZA AFFARI The name of this large statue outside the Milan Stock Exchange is the acronym for “libertà, odio, vendetta, eternità” (i.e.freedom, hatred, revenge, eternity), but the real meaning of the middle finger of sculptor Maurizio Cattelan is intentionally ambiguous.

A provocation? You be the judge of that!

Graffiti

Graffiti are among the undisputed protagonists of Milanese contemporary art. All areas of the city, particularly those around the San Siro Racecourse, are dotted with masterpieces by the exponents of local street art. Look out for them; they deserve much more than a photo.

Bagni Misteriosi

GARDENS OF THE TRIENNALE Two swimmers, a swan, a platform, a cabin and a fountain stand out, immersed in a small swimming pool, in the heart of the park around the Triennale Milano. The work, created by Giorgio de Chirico, refers to the artist’s childhood in Greece.

La Mela Reintegrata CENTRAL STATION

Heading towards the square outside the Central Station, why not stop for a while

Piazza Meda

to look at the large white apple made of marble powder and metal in the middle of it. It’s “La Mela Reintegrata” by Michelangelo Pistoletto, a curious allegory of a future in which science and technology finally blend with nature.

permanent open-air museum immersed in a marvellous natural setting stretches out for more than a kilometre, with sculptures by contemporary artists of international renown; it is known as the “Park of Art”. >> Discover more on luoghidelcontemporaneo.beniculturali.it

‘Grande Disco’, PIAZZA MEDA

The distinctive style of Arnaldo Pomodoro is immediately recognisable in the large bronze work a few yards from the Quadrilateral of Fashion. “Grande Disco” (Large Disk) is an abstract representation of man, previously inscribed in a circle by Leonardo da Vinci.

‘Il grande Toscano’ PIAZZA DEL CARMINE

In the heart of Brera, contemporary art is in dialogue with that of the past in the large bronze statue of classical inspiration designed

by Igor Mitoraj. The church of the Carmine in the background with the bust of the Great Tuscan in front of it is an image with a powerful visual impact.

Parco dell’Arte IDROSCALO

Just a few minutes from the city, the Idroscalo is a great idea for a trip into nature. Along the banks of the reservoir for swimming, a

PH © DELBO ANDREA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘L.O.V.E.’

Stazione Centrale PH © STANISLAVA KARAGYOZOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazza del Carmine

PH © JOLANTA WOJCICKA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

Virtual Tours of ITALIAN Museums 22 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

Though some of the major museums in Italy are now open upon reservation, there are many other ways to discover their cultural offer without the need to book your seat.

Where? Online, of course! We've rounded up a selection of the Italian museums offering virtual tours and online activities to satisfy your cultural whims.

BY GIULIA MINERO

F

or a few months institutions, public and private museums and art galleries have been providing their visitors with the chance to explore their collections and exhibitions comfortably from home. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, special activities, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice.

Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

The Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery), for example, has launched a new initiative: BreraPlus+, a new online platform that enriches the experience of the gallery with new multimedia content, special programs, concerts, live streaming, events and much more (www.BreraPlus. org). On the art gallery’s official website, visitors can discover 669 works of art thanks to “The Collection Online” section.

Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Fondazione Prada MILAN

Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. The foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. An online section, for example, enables visitors to discover the two featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room” and “Storytelling” – and their artworks online. Moreover, the “Finite Rants” online project features 8 different visual essays – which change monthly – commissioned to artists, filmmakers, intellectuals and researchers to test the efficiency of this intrument to express the author’s thought through images and visual communication. Conversely, on Instagram the online project “Love Stories – A Sentimental Survey by Francesco Vezzoli” explores the emotional, love and psychological status of a vast online comminuty thanks to the new language of social media. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23

WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice PH © MATTEO DE FINA

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” MILANO

The Milanese hub for science has enriched its cultural offer by powering its brand-new “Train Stories” augmented reality app, which is fully dedicated to the thrilling story of “Valigia delle Indie”, the train convoy that connected London to Bombay until the early 1900s. Through the app, visitors have the chance to walk along the train and discover the technological innovations in travels introduced by this special convoy. Moreover, users can also use the app to explore the museum’s Railway Pavilion and discover the highlights, secrets and stories connected to each locomotive and train though the words of Mr. Marco Iezzi, the curator to the pavilion. >> Discover more at www.museoscienza. org

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE

Google Arts&Culture, the innovative online platform by Google dedicated to the most important collections and artworks, has introduced a new way of visiting the 24 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration.

Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

AN ITALIAN HISTORY A rich online program powered

by Galleria Campari tells of the the contents that are part of the brand’s Historical Archive, as well as the the museum and the space hosting it. Some of the most iconic advertising campaigns by artists such as Marcello Dudovich, Fortunato Depero and Bruno Munari and modern and vintage objects can be discovered thanks to online guided tours powered with the 3D technology. Book your tour by writing to galleria@ campari.com

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Always thanks to Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home.

The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park.

Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it

THE WORLD OF LEONARDO DA VINCI Exhibition with new discoveries codices, machines, paintings and drawings Milan, Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Galleria opening hours:

daily from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm info: www.leonardo3.net Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish

MORE THAN 1 MILLION VISITORS

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE Vigneti Massa

Truffles and wine, heaven on earth

Known from antiquity, the truffle enjoys absolute pre-eminence.

This gift of nature is a favourite of chefs and the most refined palates all over the world on account of its intense, enchanting aroma, which gives a unique touch to every dish and succeeds – in combination with the right wine – in creating a perfect marriage.

Tuber magnatum pico (Appennino Food Group) 26 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair. Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation.

Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel.

T

he truffle, which prefers permeable and calcareous rubble-type terrain, has found its natural habitat in a dozen Italian regions. Various types of this precious tuber can be found starting from the month of September until March (if we exclude the summer truffle). The most important qualities of truffle are the tartufo bianco pregiato, the tartufo nero pregiato and the tartufo bianchetto or “marzuolo”.

In the Food Hall (7th floor) of the Rinascente department store in Milan, at the Maio Restaurant, a “tuber magnatum pico” (tartufo bianco pregiato) weighing 530 grams by the Appennino Food Group (Bologna area) was placed on display for a few days in early October.

This year prices have varied from €1,681/kg for average sizes to €2,134/kg for large sizes; these price values are lower compared to last year, however, when they reached as much as €3,800/kg at the Alba Stock Exchange.

WINE AND TRUFFLES: A BALANCE OF FLAVOURS So which wine should we combine with

which truffle? It is very hard to evaluate the perfect combinations and it is advisable to also consider the type of dish and not only the type of precious tuber.

To bring out the flavour of the truffle it is necessary to find a wine that has a good but balanced structure in the mouth, whether white or red; many claim that it is necessary to combine white wines with white truffles, while it is red wines for the black ones.

Considering that both truffles and wine have strong flavours and aromas, it is necessary to be careful to dose both correctly so as not to risk overpowering one flavour with the other. Our aim is to seek a certain harmony, a kind of “perfect marriage”, so three basic rules should be considered: - truffles do not require wines that are too aromatic; - wines combined with truffle must not be too acidic, but soft; - truffles are highly-prized, so they require an equally high-quality wine.

COMBINATIONS AT TABLE Perhaps a few examples may help further clarify the perfect combination.

A white truffle used for seasoning a juicy fillet of beef? In this case it is preferable to opt for an important wine, soft and balanced (without too many hints of the cask), such as a Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Brunello di Montalcino, a Barolo, Sagrantino di Montefalco or Rosso Conero.

A fried egg with grated white or black truffle?

The perfect combination is a white wine, also to avoid the tannins of red wines, which are not recommended with egg yolks; a good choice, for example, is a Chardonnay, a Ribolla Gialla, an Erbaluce di Caluso, a Timorasso, a Gavi or an Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco.

Tagliolini (tajarin) with Alba white truffle?

Here we could combine a Dolcetto d’Alba, a Pinot Nero dell’Alto Adige or a Chianti Classico.

Autumn is the season in which you can find the most varied preparations with truffles in the trattorias and restaurants along the Peninsula: in addition to following the most elementary rules of food-wine pairing, we invite you to have the courage to try new combinations.

TRUFFLE FAIRS There are many fair events and feasts in many regions in Italy devoted to truffles. Below are just some important events in the month of November, in chronological order: Marche - Fiera nazionale del Tartufo Bianco di Acqualagna Acqualagna • 1-7-8-14-15 November www.acqualagna.com/54-fiera-nazionale Tuscany - Mostra Mercato del Tartufo bianco delle Crete Senesi San Giovanni d’Asso • 7-8 November, 14-15 November www.tartufodisangiovannidasso.it

Emilia-Romagna - Tartófla Savigno 2020 Savigno • 1|7 - 8|14 - 15 November www.tartufosavigno.com Tuscany - Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco San Miniato • 14-15 | 21-22 | 28-29 November www.terredipisa.it/events Emilia-Romagna - Sua Maestà il Tartufo Brisighella • 22 November 2020 www.brisighella.org/eventi/ Piemonte - Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d'Alba (90a edizione) Alba • 10 October | 8 December www.fieradeltartufo.org/

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

WHERE NOW | WINE EXPERIENCE

TOP 10

Below is our selection of wine cellars located in the Italian regions where fine truffles are produced, with a choice of labels usually proposed for trufflewine matching.

Piedmont

La Spinetta - Barbaresco Valeirano 2016 Barbaresco DOCG Nebbiolo 100% 14.5% ABV www.la-spinetta.com

Bucci

Marchesi di Grésy - Gresy Chardonnay 2018 Chardonnay Langhe DOC Chardonnay 100% 13.5% ABV www.marchesidigresy.com Vigneti Massa – Derthona 2018 Timorasso 100% 13.5% ABV www.facebook.com/vignetimassa

Tuscany

Cantine Dei – Dei 2017 Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano DOCG Sangiovese 90%, Canaiolo Nero 10% 14.5% ABV www.cantinedei.it Mastrojanni Mastrojanni – Vigna Loreto 2015 Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Sangiovese 100% (Brunello) 15% ABV www.mastrojanni.com

EmiliaRomagna

Fattoria Zerbina Pietramora 2016 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva Marzeno DOC Sangiovese 98%, Ancellotta 2% 14.5% ABV www.zerbina.com

28 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Marche

Umani Ronchi - CÙMARO 2015 Conero Riserva DOCG Montepulciano 100% 14.5% ABV www.umanironchi.com Villa Bucci - Villa Bucci Riserva 2016 Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi Riserva DOCG Verdicchio 100% 13.5 % ABV www.villabucci.com

Lazio

Ômina Romana – Cabernet Franc “Ars Magna” 2015 Lazio Rosso IGP Cabernet Franc 100% 14% ABV www.ominaromana.com

Ômina Romana

Tenuta di Fiorano - Fiorano Bianco 2016 Lazio IGT Grechetto 50%, Viognier 50% 14% ABV www.tenutadifiorano.it

La Spinetta

Do you like this subject? If you’re in Milan, would you like to get to know Italian wine better, having fun at the same time?

Cornelia G. Hassmüller organises winetastings, wine games and tours in the surrounding area.

Info and contacts: mwa@milanowineaffair.com – www.milanowineaffair.com

Cantine Dei w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

M

E

A tribute to made in Italy In the heart of Brera, the past and present of Italia Independent meet in the brand’s new Flagship Store, a homage to style Made in Italy.

BY GIULIA MINERO

C

overing a surface area of 90sq.m., with a design dedicated to the showcasing of Italian excellence, the Italia Independent Flagship Store recreates the environments so dear to Lapo Elkann, Founder, President and Creative Director of the brand. To echo his words, “The new space encapsulates my creative spirit and my essence and is a kind of second home, combining our company’s past with the future of our gaze”. Inside it, elements from contemporary taste, such as the tricolour ceiling and the lighting, by Flos, serve as the setting for the new collections of 30 W H E R E M I L A N I N S EOPVTEEM MBBEERR 2020 2 020

sunglasses and spectacles, Laps Collection, CR7 Eyewear and Hublot Eyewear, which can also be discovered thanks to digital media. Dedicated spaces highlight the House Brands and those sold under licence, enabling customers to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the single brand. The Laps Collection by Italia Independent, for example, expresses Lapo Elkann’s creativity in eight models with titanium frames, while the CR7 Eyewear Collection by Italia Independent, designed for Cristiano Ronaldo, combines acetate and metal elements with bright colours and a personalised logo, all so dear to the footballer’s style. The Hublot Eyewear spectacles recall the refinement that distinguishes the luxury watchmaker’s brand, thanks to a blending of classic and contemporary elements. Furthermore, the new wall of “Custom Made” lenses enables customers to choose the lenses they prefer and to combine them with the frame, thereby creating personalised glasses.

>> Via Fiori Chiari, 24.

M2 Lanza. Map F3. italiaindependent.com

R

O

H

W

Shopping

.C E T R R A V E L E

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63.

SHOPPING This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers.

Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 29 Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants.

All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered.

Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.

SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Duomo, The Last Supper or the Teatro alla Scala are symbols of Milan, hence our decision to list them under a separate category.

All details are correct at the time of going to oress but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

The brand is renowned throughout the world.

Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11.T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Borsalino Historic Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92.

T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Saragiunti In Corso Matteotti, just a short distance from Piazza San Babila, Sara Giunti’s standalone store offers a range of handbags distinguished by clean-cut geometric shapes, Made in Italy craftsmanship and painstaking attention to the quality of materials. All Saragiunti bags feature LED lights that illuminate the interior. An ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. www.saragiunti.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 1.

T: 02 39198016. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “nofrills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it.

Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

Eddy Monetti Eddy Monetti’s story began in Naples in 1887 and more than 130 years later it is still a family-run business. In Milan, the brand recently relocated to via San Pietro all’Orto, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda.

Spread over three floors, the new boutique has retained the intimate, welcoming atmosphere that distinguishes all the brand’s standalone stores. Highlights include a bar, a corner featuring a grand piano, books by Taschen, and a charming terrace on the first floor, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee accompanied by typical Neapolitan pastry. It’s the ideal setting to host the brand’s wide assortment of chic, high-end men and women’s apparel. All items are handmade and flanked by a chic, seasonal collection of leisurewear. Open Mon-Sat 10am8pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. eddymonetti.com.

Via San Pietro all'Orto, 22. T: 02 76000940.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

The heart of Milan in a crocodile bag Directly inspired in shape by the Teatro alla Scala façade from one perspective and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele from the other, both behind the corner from Giòsa Milano workshop and the relative showroom in Brera: the Alyzèe handbag represents one of the latest creations conceived by master craftsman Giorgio Santamaria.

Always inspired by everything surrounding him, Giorgio once attracted turns his emotions into creativity and gives birth to objects in selected crocodile leather arousing strong desire, especially from the female audience.

The new women’s bag, produced according to traditional techniques, is realized in the most refined crocodile or alligator skins and it boasts a metal clasp also covered in same leather and an adjustable and removable shoulder strap. Alyzèe handbag is outlined as a must-have with durability and style suitable for everyday life and the most refined outfits. Milanese style and Italian charm in a bag thanks to Giosa Milano. www.giosamilano.com

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31

SHOPPING Luxury shopping

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

● Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi ●

● Gobbi 1842 ● Rocca 1794

● Orologeria Luigi Verga

● Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

◗ Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

◗ Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

38 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

◗ Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 ◗ Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

Illustration copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095.

M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4

EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76318356.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

ASPESI—www.aspesi.com Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com.

Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 760841.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27/a. T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c.

T: 02 76015982. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G3 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 77886999.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 CHURCH’S— www.church-footwear.com Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84.

T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 DIOR—www.dior.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711.

Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man).

T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila.

Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories).

T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4

ETRO—www.etro.com Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

Fashionable and colourful, Trigreca sneakers by VERSACE, for him and for her, bring an air of innovation into the style of a brand that is continually evolving.

MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Galleria San Carlo, 12. T: 02 76341378. M1 San Babila.

Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 8. T: 02 76341381.

M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila.

Map G4 MISSONI—www.missoni.it Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta.

T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via Sant’Andrea, 9 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories.

Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 72318600.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo.

T: 02 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map G4

PRADA—www. prada.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman).

T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man). T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman).

T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man).

T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories).

T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4

HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76003495.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 HOGAN—www.hogan.com Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map F4 ISSEY MIYAKE—www.isseymiyake.com Via Bagutta, 12. T: 02 781040.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 45481770.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 7772901.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

“Horsebit 1955” bucket-bag by GUCCI made of textured vintage effect white leather and fabric combines historical details with a modern spirit.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054.

M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TOD’S—www.tods.com Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am7pm).

T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDI—www.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5.

T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 VERSACE—www.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528.

M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone.

Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89011479. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39

SHOPPING

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

Since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Breguet, Breitling, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Venini. Rocca guarantees outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy.

Open daily 10.30am-6.30pm. www.rocca1794.com Piazza Duomo, 25.

T: +39 02 8057447

Rocca 1794 ●

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

Fedeli

Manzoni 24

The company’s passion for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to individual customer preferences since its early production days during the 1930’s, has consolidated the brand as symbol of pure, high-class fashion. Scarves, cashmere pullovers, knitwear, shirts, swimwear and polos and outerwear all crafted using only the finest, “Made-in-Italy” yarns processed according to time-honoured artisan techniques. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 26. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.

T: 02 76023392. M1 San Babila.

A stylish location in the heart of the city where customers can discover all the elegance of its uber-luxe fur collections. Sophisticated creations for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Its specialized staff is on-hand to suggest the look best suited to each and every customer’s individual requirements. Open 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.manzoni24.it. Via Manzoni, 24.

T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Map F4

Uniqlo The Japanese giant of fast fashion has made its debut in Italy with a 1,500 sq.m three-level megastore, hosting its men’s, women’s and children’s collections. The Italian Uniqlo also focuses on the philosophy of Lifewear: a minimalist but elegant design, sophisticated production techniques and affordable prices, In addition to classic apparel, as an exclusive for Milan, the Piazza Cordusio store offers an assortment of cashmere sweaters in 50 different colours and one of the largest collection of printed T-shirts of all the Uniqlo stores in Europe, including several styles created in collaboration with museums and local designers. www.uniqlo.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Via Cordusio, 2. M1 Cordusio. Map E4

The fragrance by CULTI MILANO that celebrates winter is “Noblesse Absolue”: a royal fragrance, enveloping and charismatic that evokes the noble soul of the pine tree.

40 W H E R E M I L A N I O C TO B E R 2020

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTERS 12 The Brian&Barry Building San Babila A 12-floor “vertical dream”, starting from the basement and spiralling upwards to the 9th floor, hosting the ASOLA | Cucina Sartoriale restaurant helmed by chef Matteo Torretta, and the 10th floor featuring a terrace/lounge space. The megastore will host a series of different high-end products and services including clothing, food, cosmetics, design objects, jewellery and watches. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.thebrianebarrybuilding.it. Via Durini, 28.

T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CityLife Shopping District The new CityLife Shopping district, the largest urban shopping centre in Italy, is located in a redeveloped urban area that once housed Milan’s historic fairgrounds. Developed in collaboration with archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata isozaki and Daniel Libeskind, CityLife is one of the largest urban redevelopment projects ever conceived in Europe. In addition to integrating residences, offices, public parks, outdoor spaces and service facilities, the district hosts 100 shops and eateries: fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home décor and high-tech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. Open daily 9am-9pm. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it.

Piazza Tre Torri. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2

Illustration copyright © 2020 All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

Luxury shopping

SHOPPING Il Centro One of the largest shopping mall in Europe (two rich floors in commercial proposals), Il Centro boasts over 200 shops and boutiques - devoted to fashion, accessories, gifts, homeware, high-tech, leisure, beauty and wellness – 25 restaurants and bars, a diagnostic centre, a sports centre and few play areas for kids, free wi-fi, tax free, dog sitting and grooming. It has launched for the first time in Italy several flagship stores of international brands as Primark, Lego, Bath&Body Works, H&M Home, Mi Store). Designed by the internationally renowned architect Michele de Lucchi, it has been inspired by the ancient Lombard courts. Located just 30 minutes from the centre of Milan, it is

easily accessible from the Stazione Centrale via a convenient shuttle service (pick up point Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta – ticket 5€ return or www.zaniviaggi.it) or by car sharing DriveNow Carsharing (download the app). Open daily 9am-10pm. www.centroilcentro.it. Via Luraghi, 11 – Arese (MI). Off Map

Rinascente

MUST-SEE A fabulous department store overlooking the Duomo, a real part of Milan’s history. 10 storeys with a refined and contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Rinascente Food & Restaurants on the 7th floor features a Food Market brimming with rare delicacies, all origin controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste (open 7 days a week until midnight; dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2. T: 02 8852471). Open seven days a week: from Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am10pm; Sun 10am-9pm. www.rinascente.it.Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Scalo Milano Outlet & More Located approximately 15 minutes from downtown Milan, this is a hub of fashion, food, design and much more. Boasting approximately 130 stores on one level (with the exception of the Food Court which has been designed as an arena below the street level) this outlet village promises a unique shopping experience. It can be quickly reached by car or via the S13 Railway link (‘Locate Triulzi’ station). Free shuttle bus from Milan Central Railway Station and piazza Cairoli. Check the website for opening hours. www.scalomilano.it. Via Milano, 5 (Locate Triulzi). T: 02 90470350. Off map

DESIGNER STORES 10 Corso Como A unique and ever-expanding mix of selling spaces grouped around a beautiful courtyard in Corso Como’s pedestrian area. Worth particular note are the Galleria Carla Sozzani, a book store stocking design books, boutiques, must-have luxury goods, a café and a restaurant. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-SatSun 10.30am-7.30pm; Wed-Thurs 10.30am-9pm. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10.

T: 02 653531. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Alessi An “art factory” which offers utensils and accessories signed by some of the most renowned names in international design. Open Mon-Sun 10am-70pm. www.alessi.com. Via A. Manzoni, 14/16. T: 02 795726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Armani/Casa In the many years since its lauch, Armani/Casa has established a pure, modern tradition where pragmatism becomes poetry. A precise aesthetic sense pervades every collection by Giorgio Armani.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-19pm. www.armanicasa.com.

Corso Venezia, 14. T: 02 76260230. M1 San Babila.

Map G4

Galleria Rossana Orlandi Opened in 2002 in a former tie Factory in the Magenta neighbor, it has been forecasting along the years new and upcoming designers and establishing the premise as one of the most revered platform for avant-garde Design 42 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

and Lifestyle. The space is articulated in a not traditional way mixing together, showroom, a retail store, offices and a courtyard for events and meeting. Galleria Rossana Orlandi has also revolutionized the way to present design art pieces, showing them always in real ambiances.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rossanaorlandi. com. Via M. Bandello, 14/16. T: 02 4674471.

M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Poltrona Frau A symbol of Italian artisan elegance. In addition to its cult leather armchairs, it also stocks a rich collection of sofas, beds, tables, desks and accessories. Open Mon 2.30pm7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.poltronafrau. com. Via Durini, 1. T: 02 6570626. M1 San Babila. Map G5 • Via A. Manzoni, 30. T: 02 97070170. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Villeroy & Boch The company boasts years of experience in the field of product design and interior design.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroy-boch. com. Via Montebello, 35. T: 02 65584928.

M3 Turati. Map F3

FASHION OUTLETS Il Salvagente Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of highend fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags! Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 76110328. www.salvagente. com. Map H4

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet The boutique welcomes customers into a warm, elegant atmosphere where they can savour the spirit of the Maison of Le Brassus, the oldest makers of Haute Horlogerie still owned by the founding family. Though this is one of the brand’s smallest venues it nevertheless showcases the four collections of Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Millenary and Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. Here visitors can also admire the special editions created for Audemars Piguet boutiques throughout the world together with several complicated pieces. Upon request, the boutique offers a worldwide delivery service.

Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.audemarspiguet.com.Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02 76003115. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Bulgari

Among the most noteworthy names in the world together with Cartier and Tiffany, since the very beginning, Bulgari has been a reference point for luxury jewellery. It also carries watches, fragrances, accessories and small table items.

Its most famous collection is the “Bzero1”, originally crafted in gold and subsequently embellished with diamonds and precious stones.

Open Mon 11am-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

FLAGHSHIP via Paolo Mantegazza 36 SHOP ON LINE www.nicolettafasani.com

SHOPPING www.bulgari.com. Via Montenapoleone, 2.

T: 02 777001. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Cartier In addition to its jewellery, Cartier is also famous as a luxury maker of watches, second only in the world to Rolex. Renowned for its design and technology, Cartier’s steel watches are embellished with details in gold, platinum and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.cartier.it. Via Montenapoleone, 16/A corner of Via Gesù. T: 02 3030421.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Chopard

The Swiss brand, famed throughout the world for its refined timepieces and jewellery collections, has opened the doors of its recently refurbished

Sizing Women clothes IT

EUR US UK

36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16

boutique in via della Spiga. The ground floor houses the Chopard Uomo collection, with one space, in particular, dedicated to the LUC, 1000 Miglia and Manifacture collections. In fact, the new Milanese Chopard boutique is the only one in the world to boast a Men’s Room of this kind.

The first floor is home to the accessories room, a room dedicated to its Women’s collections and a VIP room featuring the Maison’s most exclusive pieces of high-class jewellery and haute horologerie. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www. chopard.com. Via della Spiga, 14. T: 02 76394950.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it.

Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Daniela De Marchi-DDM

Situated just a stone’s throw from the Duomo, Atelier daniela de marchi - ddm is an evocative location where jewellery collections are designed and handcrafted. Located on the ground floor of an historic building, it serves as a perfect backdrop to the designer’s creations: jewels rendered unique by the patented “Dropage” technique in silver, bronze, brass and semi-precious stones covered in different colored enamels. The Atelier is an iconic destination for the savvy radical chic Milanese élite.

Tues–Sat 10am-7pm. www.danielademarchi.it.

Via dei Piatti, 9. T: 02 86995040. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Missori. Map E5

Dior Following a complete makeover by Peter Marino, the women’s boutique of the historic Paris maison in via Montenapoleone 12 hosts clothing, accessory, jewellery and high-class timepiece collections all set within an exclusive, sophisticated ambience, in perfect keeping with the brand’s creations. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.dior. com. Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801.

M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for luxury watch and refined jewelry lovers. Timepieces

Women shoes IT

EUR US UK

36 36 6 37 37 6.5 38 38 7.5 39 39 8.5 40 40 9 41 41 9.5

3 4 5 6 7 8

Men clothes IT

EUR US UK

50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT

EUR US UK

40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

44 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Nicoletta Fasani, unique in Milan Quality, attention devoted to environmental impact and uniqueness of artistic creation are the distinctive features of the production of Nicoletta Fasani, who creates every single item personally in her own studio with the support of a tried-and-tested network of small artisan firms spread between Lombardy and Basilicata, testifying to the expertise contained in products made in Italy from North to South.

Nicoletta’s boutique is a secluded place in the area of Villapizzone (a surface railway station), between the university pole of Bovisa and the Portello zone, far away from the busy streets of the centre and not far from Rho Fairgrounds. It is well able to evoke the style of yesteryear, suspended between past and present.

The Autumn/Winter Collection 2020-21 is a tribute to the city of Milan: it goes by the name “Retro” and is composed of large jerseys with geometrical shapes, mohair sweaters, symmetrical mix-and-match clothes and silk maxi shirts. www.nicolettafasani.com. Via Paolo Mantegazza, 36. Mob. 348 0617221. Off Map

Five reasons why

1.

Bialetti

MILANESE STYLE ICONS Discover iconic items that are an absolute ‘must’ in the everyday lives of Milanese locals. Timeless objects like the quintessential ‘Bialetti Moka’ coffee maker, ‘Tacco 12’ stiletto heels, the typical Piquadro backpack for businessmen and the classic Italian Spritz Cocktail.

Liu Jo

Kartell

Twinset

Piquadro

2.

YOUR FAVOURITE BRANDS Get our free “I Visit Card” and enjoy an extra 10% off on the latest collections of your favourite premium brands including Cavalli Class, Kartell, Twinset and Patrizia Pepe.

Carlo Pazolini

3.

JUST 15 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN MILAN Scalo Milano Outlet & More is closer than you think! Avoid Milan’s chaotic traffic and enjoy a 15-minute ride on a comfortable coach.

Get onboard! Our convenient daily shuttle connects Scalo Milano to the city centre throughout the day, for a truly carefree shopping experience!

5.

PAYMENTS & TAX-FREE SHOPPING International partners like Global Blue and Planet help you operate the tax refund process. After noticing a growing interest by international tourists, we decided to integrate our payment methods with Alipay and WeChat Pay, and create a tailor-made shopping card.

4.

EXCLUSIVE SERVICES

Discover the new Loyalty programme. Free and PICK UP YOUR TOURIST CARD digital, with "I Love Card" you get 10% discount, many dedicated advantages and every day you AT THE INFO POINT can win fantastic gift cards of 10, 30 and 50 €.

In addition, if you are a tourist, with 500€ AND ENJOY A 10% DISCOUNT. shopping we offer you a 50€ taxi voucher for a comfortable return. We have many other

150 exclusive shops up tofree 70% offfor outlet price.including the services your shopping, network Wi-Fi, power bank for mobile phones and children's area.

S13

LOCATE DI TRIULZI

DAILY SHUTTLE BUS FROM P.ZZA REPUBBLICA (NEWSSTAND) NEW STOP P.TA ROMANA M3

SHOPPING such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor are placed side by side with the two Serena Gobbi Milano jewelry collections, “Fairytale” and "Rainbow", the new stylish and contemporary capsules inspired by the perfect mechanism of time flowing and Gobbi family DNA. The upperfloor laboratory provides quick, top quality watch repair and maintenance service. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gobbi1842.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Jaeger-LeCoultre Ideally located in the heart of Milan’s “Golden Fashion Triangle”, Jaeger-LeCoultre opened its first Italian boutique in keeping with the spirit of invention and creativity which has set this reference brand of Haute Horlogerie apart in the field of watchmaking since 1833. Featuring an elegant, low-key interior, this exclusive space harmoniously blends the best of design and contemporary materials with an Art Déco style, a period in which the Swiss watchmakers created the legendary Reverso. Open Mon-Fri 10.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10.30am-8.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1.

T: 02 76281376. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, Baume&Mercier, Montblanc, Panerai, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, TCM, Pomellato and Pomellato 67. Luigi Verga Orologi also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an

on-premises UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair workshop. www.vergaorologi.it.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-6pm. Corso Vercelli, 19. T: 02 48198656. M1 ConciliazioneM1 Pagano. Map C4

Orologeria Luigi Verga A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious Swiss brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Girard Perregaux and Pomellato to name a few. Its certified upper-floor workshop provides highqualified watch repair and maintenance services. www.luigiverga.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm6pm (in June). Tues-Fri 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm and Sat 10am-3pm (in July). Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo). T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F5 • Via V. Capelli, 6 (Piazza Gae Aulenti).

The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor and Montblanc.

T: 02 6595775. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Pasquale Bruni The historic Italian company of fine jewelry has its flagship store in via Montenapoleone.

The space was designed by Eugenia Bruni, Pasquale’s daughter and the company’s Creative Director, with the aim of celebrating elegance and femininity. The brand’s lines pay homage to flowers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. pasqualebruni.com Via Montenapoleone, 5.

T: 02 784118. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Patek Philippe Boutique

by Pisa Orologeria The boutique represents further proof of the perfect harmony between the Pisa Family and the Patek Philippe brand, as well as their common determination to offer clients an environment of excellence for the Geneva masterpieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Mon 10.30am-7pm. www.patek.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081.

M1 San Babila. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years.

A ground-breaking expansion project involving the addition of 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie, from the A of A. Lange & Söhne to the Z of Zenith. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Open Mon-Sat 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm6pm. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via P. Verri, 7.

T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique The Pisa family has always been a forerunner in the world watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. The collaboration between the Pisa family and the Rolex brand goes back over 70 years.

Open Mon-Sat 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-6pm. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Montenapoleone, 24.

T: 02 76317726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Tax Free Refund Guide According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short guide according to the Italian legislation to discover the common system of value added tax exclusively for non-EU resident travellers.

1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system.

2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies.

3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document;

46 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

• the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the “customs stamp”; • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must be electronically transmitted by the national seller to OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally carried out.

• after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will send a message to the retailer that all the requirements are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse the amount due or will settle the tax relief.

• the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made.

If the invoice is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of the purchase.

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in).

5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date

when the document was issued.

6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window).

7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices.

8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller.

9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies.

10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices.

Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otelloenglish-version/legislation

SHOPPING “Limelight Gala” 32mm Automatic by PIAGET with new self-winding calibre is characterised by the round design of the case with two elongated asymmetrical lugs embellished by sparkling gems.

the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish.

Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Sun by appointment. www.giosamilano.com. Vicolo Ciovasso, 1.

T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza Map F4

Il Bisonte Rocca 1794 Master jewellers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, JaegerLeCoultre, Breguet, Breitling, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Venini. Rocca guarantees outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. www.rocca1794.com. • Open daily 10.30am-6.30pm. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Under renovation Milano Malpensa Airport - Terminal 1 (Piazza del Lusso). T: 02 74867578. Off Map

Ronchi Opened in 1929, it has become a prestigious reference point for watch lovers the world over, always combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery and ongoing research on fashion-forward and classic trends. Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm-6pm. www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5.

T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Maison’s unique identity and heritage, each jewelry and watch collection tells a story with universal meaning to express a poetic view of life. A timeless recognizable style defined by elegance, femininity and creativity are the hallmark features found in all the collections of this historic brand. For over a century Van Cleef & Arpels has been fusing inspiration and technical prowess into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and modernity.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.vancleefarpels.com. Via Montenapoleone, 10.

T: 02 7767951. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Giosa Milano

UNIQUE An atelier combined with a showroom in the Brera district, where the particular way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a business, a family history for about 50 years. The atelier merges the traditional working techniques of how to handle the most precious leathers with the modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giosa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from

At its boutique in via Santo Spirito, Florentine leather goods house Il Bisonte offers customers its full range of luxury items. Its beautifully handcraft bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomize the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. Located in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, in addition to exquisite wood, the brand’s trademark cowhide leather has been used to upholster the furniture and as a decorative element of the store’s interior décor. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ilbisonte.com. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T:02 76003014. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

PASSION SHOPPING Culti Milano The boutique at 53 Corso Venezia is a multisensory space where cultural, communication and business activities take place in a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere. The store stocks the entire range of the House’s signature: from home fragrances and scented candles, to personal care products. The showroom extends over ca.

287sq.m., distributed over two floors: at ground

Tiffany & Co. This world-renowned jeweller has ten boutiques in Italy: Milan, Rome, Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna. Located in the heart of Milan, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famous New York counterpart founded in 1837. www.tiffany.it. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-8.30pm.

Piazza Duomo Flagship Store. T: 02 89094202.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 19/A. T: 02 76022321.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am 8.30pm. Shop in Shop c/o Excelsior Milano. Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76280561. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vacheron Constantin Boutique The two-level boutique is a universe that combines elegance, modernity and refinement in a perfect equilibrium which shed a new light on the DNA of the Maison. A vital and living space that originates with the intention to open the world of high-end watchmaking of Vacheron Constantin to a cosmopolitan public of connoisseurs. The boutique carries the manufacturer’s entire range of watches, displayed on the ground floor, with a private room giving the right privacy to discover the most fascinating complications of the brand. On the upper floor lies an elegant space inspired by the art de vivre Vacheron Constantin and a refined American Bar. Open Mon 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.vacheronconstantin.com – www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Van Cleef & Arpels Since its foundation in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has always remained faithful to the values of creation, expertise and transmission. Inspired by the w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

SHOPPING level, there is the boutique, where customers can try the different perfumes in a pleasurable, amicable space, and, on the first floor, an area conceived and designed to be versatile, a perfect venue for meetings and events. Open Sun-Tues 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. www.culti.com Corso Venezia, 53.

T: 02 83986600. M1 Palestro. Map G3

KitcheN Milano A reference point on the Milanese scene for cooking enthusiasts. Within its welcoming and modern space, KitcheN offers a wide range of top-quality utensils and gadgets in sought-after designs, as well as a selection of gourmet foods and cookery books. This concept stems from a partnership with knIndustrie which curated its restyling and artistic direction, repositioning the brand and introducing new products and new ‘stories’ dedicated to contemporary and professional cuisine, with a focus on versatility, experience and accessibility. This multi-functional space also hosts a rich events calendar including cookery courses, seminars, cultural meetings, exhibitions and tastings. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.kitchenmilano.it. Via E. De Amicis, 45.

T: 02 58102849. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.Map E5

Ottica Chierichetti

Style and craftsmanship Manzoni 24 is a contemporary space in the heart of Milan’s historic centre that blends in perfectly with its stylish surrounds in the city’s viby fashion district. A warm, welcoming venue and the perfect place to be inspired, admire and naturally try on the various fur designs on display. Luxe collections of clothing, accessories and homeware for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship.

Easy-to-wear garments featuring impeccably tailored lines in which even the noblest furs are adapted to suit a young, contemporary style.

Diverse materials meet and give life to new trends: quilted jackets pair perfectly with fur, fur enhances cashmere and the unexpected becomes a fashion item.

In the photo: cashmere parka with a soft sable trimming in a warm beige colour. www.condorpelli.it Via Manzoni, 24.

T: 02 76001395. Map F4

48 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Established in 1914 in Milan, this ‘Bottega Storica’ (Historic Workshop) has been run by the Chierichetti family for three generations.

Ottica Chierichetti is a landmark institution for eye care in the city. It offers personalized, highly professional services using the latest, most advanced technology and techniques. From eye tests, all the way to the study of facial features, the shop’s expert team of staff goes out of its way to help customers find the perfect pair of glasses.

Ottica Chierichetti also offers repairing and maintenance services, carried out by hand with artisanal attention to detail. Other services include prescription customization and sunglass lenses of the best, high –quality brands from all over the world. www.chierichetti.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm; Corso di Porta Romana, 74. * Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm.

Largo alla Crocetta, 1. T: 02 58314024. Map F6

The Merchant of Venice A historic brand epitomizing the Venetian art of perfume-making, has an elegant, store in Brera. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’.

Venetian red, the color used for the shelves and counter, is its dominant chromatic element. The Merchant of Venice carries a luxury line comprising a wide range of exclusive fragrances for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano glass blowers. www.themerchantofvenice.com.

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has opened its boutique in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda, just steps away from Teatro alla Scala. A Milanese reference point that, since 1907, has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-a-porter and

ceremony attire both for men and women but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Via G. Verdi, 2. vallitessuti. com. T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Venini The art of glass-making. The new collections and the historic pieces of this brand founded in 1921 are showcased against a neutral, minimalist background. Via Montenapoleone, 10.Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.venini.com.

T: 02 76000539.M1 San Babila. Map F4

SHOES Alfonso Garlando Tailor-made, Italian-style shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of materials. Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Fratelli Rossetti Renowned throughout the world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to boot.

Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1.

T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Sergio Rossi Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatale in every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eyecatching footwear designed for women in search of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes is checked for quality at least 120 times. Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27.

T: 02 76006140. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Vibram Milan’s first and unique Vibram® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram® sole.

Shop online available Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. vibram. com. Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461.

M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

STATIONERY Pettinaroli Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, since its inseption Pettinaroli has been considered a reference point for funs and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gifts items.

Its boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. Via Brera, 4.

T: 02 86464642-1875. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Tiffany&Co

SHOPPING

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe.

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda ●

●

Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro

alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan.

AROUND THE DUOMO For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands.

TOWARDS TEATRO ALLA SCALA: THE GALLERIA Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. For the past 150 years, it has been a meeting place for the Milanese and their guests. In the Galleria, haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops (whose signs serve as an indication of their storied past).

A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts is Valli Tessuti Alta Moda, with the perfect fabrics to make elegant outfits.

You say ‘aperitivo’ and you immediately think of Camparino in Galleria, a landmark location and a reference point where Milan’s elite meet to partake in one of Italy’s oldest social traditions! Carlo Cracco’s new locale is spread over four floors and focuses on opulent aesthetic and culinary offerings, from breakfast to post-theatre dining.

For those in search of a taste of tradition, located just nearby is Luini (renowned for its one-of-a-kind “panzerotti”). Conversely, those favouring a more sought-after gourmet experience can either opt to eat at Ristorante Galleria where you enjoy a taste of Milanese food and hospitality (for generations, the Galli family has defined Milanese hospitality in the Galleria!) or at Ristorante Savini, one of Milan’s most iconic landmark restaurants, or at the Marchesi alla Scala restaurant.

Don’t miss the Lavazza flagship store, a space where coffee lovers can sample an authentic espresso and innovative coffee-based recipes.

VALLI TESSUTI ALTA MODA A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts.

Located in via Verdi, just steps from Teatro alla Scala, here expert staff will assist you in the search for the perfect fabric to make elegant outfits, prêt-à-porter or formal wear.

These fabrics are inspired by the patterns of the most up-todate haute couture collections. Valli stocks a wide assortment of exquisite fabrics for men (including pinstripes and prince of Wales check by Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana) and women (Valentino and Ungaro), as well as bolts of cloth to make coats and outerwear, shirts, accessories and bridal gowns. Alipay payment accepted. vallitessuti.com Via G. Verdi, 2 - T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49

Dr. Vranjes

SHOPPING

BRERA DISTRICT & MORE amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints. As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month.

The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando. Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35 and Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù ● Giosa Milano ●

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints.

historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (Braidense National Library), the Museo Astronomico (The Astronomical Museum), the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico (Botanical Gardens).

EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca di Brera (the Brera Picture Gallery), the

ART AND PASSION SHOPPING To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where,

Since the very beginning, elegance, flair and femininity have represented the three underlying values of each collection signed

by Angela Caputi Giuggiù. Angela Caputi’s bijoux are distinguished by the use of synthetic resins highlighted by rigorously handcrafted working and construction techniques. These creations, definable as truly unique pieces, are undeniably precious and sophisticated; an expression of art known throughout the world as a symbol of unadulterated Made-in-Italy excellence (www.angelacaputi.com).

Specializing for generations in the working of crocodile skins, Giòsa Milano at no. 1 via Ciovasso manufactures precious pieces which though crafted according to the classic canons of precious skins are nevertheless developed with an innovative, contemporary twist. The history of Giòsa Milano dates back to 1950s and reflects

GIOSA MILANO Surrounded by art galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

50 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

Pinacoteca di Brera the company’s passion and commitment to tradition, a perfect example of Made in Italy artisan luxury. Nestling in the heart of the picturesque Brera district, its workshop fashions a vast range of bespoke creations designed to suit individual tastes, real made-to-measure items ranging from clothing for men and women to accessories such as bags, briefcases, wallets, belts, watch cases, desk-tops and just about anything that can be created using only the finest crocodile skin, including more unusual, contemporary items like Iphone or Ipad covers (www.giosamilano.com).

THE PERFUME DISTRICT Considered one of Milan’s quaintest districts, in addition to its picturesque artisanal workshops, Brera is slowly becoming populated with small yet delectable shops carrying only the most sought-after fragrances, transforming the area into a ‘district of Artistic Perfumery’. For both lovers of signature fragrances and for neophytes who are eager to delve deeper into this desirable universe, we suggest a short tour to experience the enchantment of ‘Haute Parfumerie’.

Ristorante Daniel At no. 4 via Brera, we find the The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com).

At no. 5, we find the Olfattorio Bar-àParfums, dedicated to specialty perfumery, and boasting a truly unique range of artistic perfumes, niche cosmetics and luxury make-up (www.olfattorio.it). The space also has a corner dedicated to Penhaligon’s, the luxury British perfume house established in 1870. The Olfattorio is also present in Milan, at no. 23 via Brera, with the Dyptyque boutique, purveyors of the famous and uber trendy Dyptyque candles (wwwdiptyqueparis.eu), the L’Artisan Parfumeur in via Bagutta 8, renowned for its pioneering spirit and contemporary fragrances for more than 40 years, and a space at Rinascente in piazza Duomo.

Other must-visits while in the area include Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.

com), the Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina 11, www.smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com).

TASTING SUGGESTIONS Between visiting one shop and another, you might be surprised to suddenly discover that it’s time for lunch. Try the typical Parma-based charcuterie specialities at Parma & Co, or the famed sandwiches sold by Panino Giusto. The afternoon is likely to pass by in a flash until you suddenly realize that it’s aperitivo time: there’s no doubt that you’ll be captivated by the purely Art Déco-style atmosphere of El Tombon de San Marc, the trendier atmosphere of Fashion Café in via San Marco; another option is Ristorante Daniel offering contemporary Italian cuisine and the chance to enjoy something new from day to day.

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 51

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets.

Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations!

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

?

Torino Outlet Village

VENEZIA

Mantova PIACENZA Serravalle Outlet Village Designer Outlet

FERRARA

?

?

Mondovicino Outlet Village

?

Designer Outlet

?

?

ALESSANDRIA

GENOVA The Mall Sanremo

Fidenza Village

MAR LIGURE

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets

PISA

VENTIMIGLIA

?

TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

?

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

TORINO?

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

FIRENZE The Mall Firenze

?

LIVORNO

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism.

• WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica).

• WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian

FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES and international brands at prices reduced A haven of luxury and elegance where by up to 70% off the recommended retail 160 stores offer the very best fashion PESCARA CORSICA price – seven days a week, all year round. labels discounted from 30% to More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, 70% all year round.

Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio • WHERE: in Switzerland (on the Swiss border), ROMA Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km from and many more.

Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selectionMAR andTIRRENO exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service of restaurants offers local products based is available from Milan. on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than NAPOLI highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, or tasty snacks for a relaxing break.

Dolce&Gabbana, Coach, Gucci, Guess, www.fidenzavillage.com Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Nike, SARDEGNA

Fidenza Village 52 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

FoxTown Factory Stores

How to get there with the Shuttle bus

Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Valentino and many more), 1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, an exchange office, free wi-fi, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: exclusive services make FoxTown the perfect place for those seeking a luxury shopping experience in a unique environment.

www.franciacortaoutlet.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan.

• WHERE: located in Locate Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a daily shuttle bus from downtown Milan (Piazza della Repubblica, 3 corner of via Turati) and straight to Scalo Milano in a few minutes.

• WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Twinset, Fratelli Rossetti, A. Testoni, Puma, a Ferrari store and 15 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris...) and

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE

A complimentary daily Shopping Express® service runs from the centre of Milan to Fidenza Village.

A shuttle service runs from the centre of Milan to Scalo Milano with 3 daily departures.

Bookable everyday at scalomilano.it

>> Departure from Piazza della Repubblica fidenzavillage.com/booking FREE PROMOCODE: WHERE

>> Departure from Piazza della Repubblica by Frigerio Viaggi www.scalomilano.it

www.foxtown.com

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg wines but also offers a unique shopping experience with top international brands and discounts of up to 70% year-round.

• WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi and exit at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan.

• WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: over 190 stores of Italian and international brands for up to 30-70% less all year round: Adidas, Baldinini, Beretta, Billionaire, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Cavalli Class, Fratelli Rossetti, Loriblu, Nike, Pinko, Plein Sport, Pal Zileri, Richard Ginori, Twin-Set, Trussardi, Under Armour and many more.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with a daily shuttle service.

FIDENZA VILLAGE

Piazza della Repubblica 5, corner of Via Turati

9.45am

Arrival at Fidenza Village

11.15am

Return from Fidenza Village to Milan

5.30pm

Arrival in Milan

7pm

10.30am

12.30am

2pm

3.15pm

5pm

7pm

Largo Cairoli Arrival at FoxTown Mendrisio Return from FoxTown to Milan with a stopover at the Customs office to have TaxFree forms stamped Arrival in Milan

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Duomo, Central Station, Corso Buenos Aires and Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/12 – 0-3 years: free.

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli

by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it 10am

1pm

11.15am

2.15pm

>> Departure from Central Station and Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi www.zaniviaggi.it Central Station

Largo Cairoli

Departure from Serravalle

4pm

7.15pm

9am

9.30am

4.15pm

5.15pm

8.45pm

9.30am

10am

5pm

10.30am

11am

7.30pm

1pm

1.30pm

8.15pm

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Largo Cairoli.

Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

>> Departure from Central Station, Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires by Autostradale – www.autostradale.it

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli

by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it Largo Cairoli

Departure from Scalo Milano

FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Largo Cairoli.

Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

Piazza della Repubblica 5, corner of Via Turati

11am

Arrival at Franciacorta Outlet Village

12.15am

Return from Franciacorta Outlet to Milan

6.30pm

Central Station and Piazza Duomo

Corso Buenos Aires

Departure from Serravalle

10am

10.05am

4.30pm

12am

12.05am

6.30pm

12.30

7.30pm

8.30pm

VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS

Take advantage of the daily Shuttle Bus connecting the centre of Milan (and Turin on Sat and Sun) with Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli

by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it Largo Cairoli

Departure from Vicolungo

10.30am

4.30pm w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 53

FASHION AND DESIGN OUTLETS | DAILY TOURS © MAURIZIO CAMAGNA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. Incredible entertainment program through the year with concerts, events and exhibitions.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items purchased here. Open daily: Design and Fashion: MonFri 11am-8pm and Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Food: Mon-Fri 11am-10pm and Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. scalomilano.it

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes away from Milan’s city center.

Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples

Serravalle Designer Outlet 54 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice.

• WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia.

From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte, from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires.

Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle.

• WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle

VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, in the province of Novara, this is one of the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day shopping.

• WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo.

Daily shuttle service is available from Milan.

• WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices up to 70%. The shopping experience will appeal also to outdoor sports enthusiasts who will find a selection of several of the world’s most coveted sports brands.

• NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

12 11 2

10

1 13

8

14 20

A few steps from Milan...

Milan is a mixture of art, culture, shopping and lifestyle and its outlying areas are equally attractive.

Discover our pick of these fabulous destinations for an unmissable outof-town trip. By Simona P.K. Daviddi Our tour begins on the outskirts of Milan at the 17th-century Villa Arconati 1 (www.villaarconati-far.it). Known also as ‘the small Versailles of Lombardy’, it is set within the vast green spaces of the Groane Park in Bollate. This is a splendid example of Lombardy Baroque architecture and visitors are welcomed in its frescoed rooms, while summer evenings are jazzed up with a series of concerts and events in its magnificent gardens. We recommend a visit to the Villa Visconti Borromeo Litta 2 (www. villalittalainate.it) which is just a short distance away in Lainate. This neo-classical jewel of architecture is surrounded by a lovely park that earned the title of the ‘Most Beautiful Historical Park in Italy’ in 2016. The Villa is renowned for its Nyphaeum and spectacular water features. A mixture of sacred and profane – the Metropolitan City area is interspersed with numerous abbeys. In fact, there are so many that there is even a Road of Abbeys (www.stradadelleabbazie.it). Our route starts from the Abbey of Chiaravalle 3 , dominated by an imposing, richly frescoed 14th-century bell tower, and continues onwards to the Abbey of Viboldone 4 , one the most beautiful medieval complexes in Lombardy, until we reach Mirasole 5 , a 13th-century monastery which, with its numerous moats, resembles a fortress. After travelling for a few more kilometers, in a southwesterly direction, we come to the Abbey of Morimondo 6 , a former Cistercian monastery renovated in Gothic style.

Museo Alfa Romeo

EN PLEIN AIR The area housing the abbeys is also the heart of the large Parco Agricolo Sud Milano (www. parcoagricolosudmilano. it).

6 The Park boasts a rich historic and agricultural heritage and comprises old farmsteads, waterways and important residential complexes, including Gaggiano 7 , which, with its small, pastel-coloured houses nestling on both banks of the Naviglio Grande, is well worth a visit. This charming hamlet can be accessed from the city via a scenic bicycle track skirting the canal. The Martesana Canal also offers views of rare beauty as it flows towards the Adda river. Rural centres are interspersed with expanses of greenery (an absolute must is a visit to the Adda Park which can also be crossed by bike or on horseback) and charming urban centres, including Crespi d’Adda 8 , a late 19th-century workers’ village built up around a textiles factory and a UNESCO world heritage site (www.villaggiocrespi.it). However, Milan is not only renowned for its canals. Lying on the outskirts of the city, just behind the airport of Linate, we find the Idroscalo 9 , a large artificial lake set within green surroundings (www. idroscalo.info). The area offers all types of facilities including jogging, horseback riding and bicycle paths, boat, canoe and pedalò hire, recreational fishing and even rugby pitches.

A DAY DEVOTED TO CULTURE If the weather’s gloomy, don’t despair! This is a great opportunity to visit a museum! Perhaps a historic one like the Alfa Romeo Museum 10 (www.museoalfaromeo.com) in Arese, formerly home to the prestigious factory. This museum has six floors of models that have made motoring history, as well as prototypes and memorabilia.

Another must-visit option is the MA*GA Museum 11 (www.museomaga.it) in Gallarate, halfway between Malpensa Airport and Milan, one of the most important contemporary art museum in Italy. It houses a collection of more than six

Villa Arconati

9 7 30 k

m

3 4 5

thousand works of art hosted in its 5,000 sq.m.

For lovers of the history of aviation and of the industries that turned the dream of flight into reality, the Volandia Park and Museum 12 (www.volandia.it) narrates the epic tale of aeronautics in all its forms, from the pioneering flights of the beginning of the 20th century, up to the futuristic convertiplane, from hot-air balloons to the conquest of space along over 2 km of exhibition. Discover its flight simulators, planetarium, aircraft models, Ogliari section, library, movies, bar, restaurant and a rich Volandia Store.

WHAT’S NEW As with every ‘city on the move’, Milan is constantly enriched with new attractions.

Two in particular deserve a special mention.

The first is found in the area that hosted Expo in 2015 and which has now become MIND Milano (Milano Innovation District) 13 (www. mindmilano. it), a four thousand square metre park where visitors can attend performances, concerts and sporting events.

The second innovation is Milan’s latest attraction dedicated to skydiving.

Aero-Gravity 14 , the biggest freefall simulator in the world, has opened in Pero. This is a sophisticated contraption, designed to overcome the force of gravity and support flight, offering visitors (children from 4 years) the thrill of experiencing what it feels like to jump from an airplane at an altitude of 4,500 metres (www.aerogravity.it).

Aero-Gravity

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 55

PH © ANDREA CHERCHI

Dining

New gourmet trips... with a view

T

he Mi View is located on the 20th floor of the futuristic Torre JWC - World Join Center offering a breathtaking view over the Milanese skyline and is furnished in an elegant and contemporary style, over an area of more than 150 sq.m.

The menu focuses on seasonal ingredients and highlights the premium quality of niche producers of food and wine. Between the values that inspire the restaurant, a strong tie with local artisans and farmers, mostly Italian: this is the result of twenty-five years of experience in getting to know, studying and promoting 56 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

the best of artisan production and agricultural transformation. An experience acquired throught “Artigiano in Fiera”, the event that gathers every year under the same roof in Milan the best Italian and foreign artisans (artigianoinfiera.it).

A new evening format proposes 3 different “gourmet cuisine trips” highlighting the excellence of Italian cooking, transcending the officially accepted distinctions between antipasti, first courses, main courses and desserts. Executive Chef Christian Spagnoli has conceived “North South West East”, which envisages eleven regional stages, then “Nothing is as it seems”, which plays around with textures and aesthetics, and finally “Woodland and coastline”, the quickest, composed of a selection of five courses extrapolated from the other trips. And the desserts? Pastry Chef Domenico Peragine completes the trips with three delicious interpretations that are very exciting to discover. The “Milan View” lunch has also been revised and tips a nod to simplicity with a menu that is amended on a weekly basis.

>> miview.it. Viale Achille Papa, 30.

T: 02 78612732. M1 QT8. Map B1

PH © LORENZA MERCURI

Talk about a “dinner view”?

Discover the Mi View Restaurant in the Portello district, offering a breathtaking view and a refined cuisine, mostly Italian.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Cantina Piemontese A top-level “trattoria” with a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful corner of Milan just a short distance from the Duomo.

Originally a winery with a prestigious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2.

T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5

Don Lisander For more than sixty years, a fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala.

An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service.

The menu features traditional Lombardy and regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Galleria Situated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo.

Map G4

Savini Spread out over three floors in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, for the past 150 years Savini has been one of Milan’s most iconic, landmark restaurants. A favourite haunt of several of the world’s most legendary figures, it continues to be the place where the local elite gather after a night at the opera. Credit for its enduring reputation goes to its blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by the contemporary cuisine of Executive Chef Giovanni Bon. Its wine cellar, boasting more than 800 labels from all over the world, deserves a special mention.

Open Mon-Fri 12-noon to 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm and Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it.

Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II).

T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Mieru Mieru All the warmth of a typical Puglia welcome awaits you in Milan’s Navigli district. A sort of ‘protected culinary area’ where, thanks to the hospitality offered by it owners (restaurateurs for generations), diners will feel completely at home.

It offers a menu infused with the ‘aromas of the sea and the land’, sourcing what they have to offer on a daily basis. An ideal location for those who love fresh flavours in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Those wishing to enjoy the ‘scent of the sea’ and a taste of Puglia before dinner can do so while sampling a glass of good wine accompanied by a tantalizing assortment of seafood snacks. Special gluten free menu. Open

Mon-Sat 7pm-midnight. Reservation for lunch. €€. www.mierumieru.it. Via Magolfa, 14.

T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7

Torre The panoramic restaurant, designed to accommodate up to 84 diners, is arranged on three levels of the Torre, inside the Fondazione Prada complex. The decorative elements and artworks covering the walls are by several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists, while the top floor features original furnishings from the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York, designed by Philip Johnson in 1958. The outdoor terrace echoes the porphyry flooring and metal grids characterizing the Foundation’s exteriors, which extend over a surface area of 125 square metres. The seventh floor also hosts a Chef’s table, a private area with a view of the kitchens and a private terrace. The restaurant’s gastronomic concept is based on an Italian menu and traditional regional cuisine, accompanied by a prestigious selection of wines. €€€. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via G. Lorenzini, 14. T: 02 23323910. M3 Lodi. Map G7

Valentino Vintage Restaurant Situated inside a historic 17th century building in the heart of Milan, just steps from the Quadrilatero della Moda, this restaurant offers traditional Italian cuisine in a warm, elegant setting. Its atmosphere, inspired by movie icon Rodolfo Valentino, is infused with an old-world charm reminiscent of the Belle Epoque. Its cuisine is deeply rooted in Italy’s culinary traditions and melds typical Mediterranean dishes, created thanks to the use of only the highest-quality ingredients, with innovative flavours, resulting from creative experimentation. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm; Sat 7pm-11pm. Closed on Sun. €€. www.valentinovintage.it. Corso Monforte, 16. T: 02 76394369. M1 San Babila.

Map G4

INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Denzel One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, America, Asia and South America are combined in delectable, tasty dishes, in a welcoming ambience. It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it.

Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326.

M1 Wagner. Map C4

El Porteño Possibly the best Argentinean restaurant in Milan, El Porteño is renowned for its succulent meat and churrasco cuts. Exquisite dishes offered by chefs focusing primarily on tradition and high-quality ingredients, house specialities inc asado criollo, grilled beef, pork and veal, empanadas and pollo en escabeche. Also offers a fabulous selection of important wines including Argentinean specialities such as Malbec and Torrontes.

Open for dinner. €€€. www.elporteno.it. Viale G. Galeazzo, 25. T: 02 58437593. Map F6 • Viale Elvezia, 4. T: 02 34537275. Map E3

Starred flavours Boasting a total of 61 restaurants, Lombardy has reconfirmed its ranking as the Italian region with the highest number of starred restaurants, 19 of which are located in the city of Milan and its outskirts. Real temples of taste where tradition, innovation and research meet thanks to the creative flair of famous chefs.

The big news in the Michelin Guide 2020 is the return of a three-star restaurant in the shadow of the Madonnina.

By Giulia Minero Enrico Bartolini (Mudec - Museo delle Culture, via Tortona, 56. Map C6) Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia (via Montecuccoli, 6. Off Map) Seta (Mandarin Oriental Milan, via Monte di Pietà, 18. Map F4) Vun (Park Hyatt, via Silvio Pellico, 3.

Map F4) L’Alchimia (viale Premuda, 34. Map H4) Berton (via Mike Bongiorno, 13.

Map F2) Contraste (via Meda, 2. Map F7) Cracco (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Map F4) Innocenti Evasioni (via privata della Bindellina. Off Map) IT Milano (via Fiori Chiari, 32. Map F3) Iyo (via Piero della Francesca, 74.

Map C1) Joia (via Panfilo Castaldi, 18. Map G3) Lume (via Watt, 37. Off Map) (Il) Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala (piazza della Scala, 5. Map F4) Sadler (via Ascanio Sforza, 77. Off Map) Tano Passami l'Olio (via Petrarca, 4.

Map D4) Tokuyoshi (via San Calocero, 3.

Map E5) Viva Viviana Varese (Eataly Milano Smeraldo, piazza XXV Aprile, 10. Map F2) D’O (piazza della Chiesa, 14 – Cornaredo. Off Map) More on www.wheremilan.com/guide w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 57

DINING These limited edition pralines are the new proposal from ARMANI/DOLCI

by GUIDO GOBINO for this season: milk chocolate with a sophisticated black tea flavoured filling.

TASTING EXPERIENCE Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino Via Manzoni 31 is possibly the most glamorous address for Milanese patisserie: Armani/Dolci is a location dedicated by world-renowned designer Giorgio Armani to the world of chocolate and not only. Here you can find elegant pralines, chocolate bars, assorted dragées or fruit preserves, delightful gifts that are perfect for any occasion, also thanks to the store’s elegant, unmistakable packaging. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.armanidolci.com. Via Manzoni, 31.

T: 02 62312686. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cova Pasticceria

Your home restaurant

Dedicated to those who want to experience the real regional culinary tradition, the typical products of the territory and recipes handed down through the generations of Italian families. The “Cesarine” network - spread out over 140 Italian cities with over 1000 amateur chefs - has become established over recent years with this very aim: to offer a complete gastronomic experience by opening up the doors of home with lunches and dinners, personalised show cooking, cooking competitions, visits to markets or local producers or catering in exclusive locations. Having lunch with an Italian family, with dishes prepared following the typical traditions of the local cuisine, tasting the wines of the territory, is a truly unique experience!

And from this year live cooking courses and virtual appointments are available on the cesarine.com website, in both Italian and English, so you can continue to learn family recipes and all the secrets of traditional cuisine. www.cesarine.com

58 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look.

Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanese-style risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long.

Open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8.

T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Eataly Smeraldo A cult destination dedicated to highclass Italian gastronomy: 5,000 sq.m. devoted to food and the best, locally sourced products spread out over 4 floors hosting not only 19 eateries and a starred restaurant (Alice) but also rooms for food workshops and a convention centre. Eataly has opened in the theatre space of Milan’s former legendary Teatro Smeraldo and hosts a huge stage and offers a totally free season of music. www.eataly.net. Piazza XXV Aprile, 10.

T: 02 49497301. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

illy Caffè In addition to a design store in Milan’s futuristic piazza Gae Aulenti, surrounded by spectacular skyscrapers, the Trieste-based brand has an exclusive locale in via Montenapoleone, in the elegant courtyard of a period building. One of the city’s hottest all-day dining options where lovers of taste and art can get together to enjoy either a languid lunch or dinner, or savour tantalizing sweet and savoury offerings in a unique oasis. The store also boasts a retail corner featuring a selection of products from the illy world. www.illy.com. Open daily 8am-11pm. Piazza Gae Aulenti, 36. T: 02 65560331. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2 • Open daily 8.30am-8pm. Via Montenapoleone, 19.

T: 02 83549386. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Marchesi 1824 Pralines and homemade pastries, biscuits and panettone, “veneziana”, chocolates, sweets

and over thirty different types of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. Marchesi has recently opened two new shops in Milan, located in the exclusive settings of Via Monte Napoleone and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. A truly tantalizing experience! Open Tues-Sat 7.30am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-1pm. www.pasticceriamarchesi.it. Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a. T: 02 876730. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 • Open daily 7.30am-9pm.

Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76008238. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open daily 7.30am9pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 94181710.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier In Milan, the famous school of Belgium chocolate boasts one of its most famous brands: the Neuhaus shop is a small treasure trove where pralines – more than 100 varieties that arrive fresh, each week, from Belgium – are displayed in cases like precious jewels, alongside bars with dried fruits, characteristic letters of the alphabet and greeting cards, all made exclusively from chocolate. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; TuesSat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.neuhauscioccolato.it. Via San Vittore, 6.T: 02 72000096.

M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Noberasco 1908 King of dry fruit Noberasco 1908 instantly sealed its success as a reference point for discerning palates and lovers of natural tastes: its products are sourced from all over the world and include a flotilla of the rarest, most delicious culinary delights. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 11am-7.30pm. www.noberasco.it. Via Spadari.

T: 02 99201022. M1 Cordusio, M1-M3 Duomo.

Map F2

Peck A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil.

Spread out over three floors, Peck is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a careful selection of products from all over the world. Don’t miss the “Piccolo Peck”, a gastronomic café at the ground floor reminding a Viennese café of the 30s, where you can relax and taste several specialties. Open Mon 3pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-5pm. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

Entertainment

Combo, a cosmopolitan space An old banister house in the Navigli district has been transformed into a youthful, multi-functional space where you can work, sleep, eat, drink, meet friends, and have fun.

BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

“I

t was a large house because we were people with big plans”. In addition to being the opening of “Full of Life”, one of John Fante’s best-loved novels, this is the catch phrase that Combo’s founders like to use when introducing it. Combo is a large house full of people, an integrated hostel, and a crossroads of ideas and artistic expressions that aims to give a new meaning to the concept of hospitality. In keeping with the cosmopolitan spirit of Milan, a city that is always focused on the 60 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

future, albeit deeply rooted in tradition, Combo is housed in a “banister house” in one of the city’s jealously guarded secret courtyards on the Navigli, in a space spread over 3,800 sq.m. It’s a tranquil retreat bursting with life, where you can meet friends, work, relax, sip an aperitivo, eat a snack, see an exhibition or attend a presentation. Combo is not just a 217-bed hostel; it’s a bar, a restaurant, a radio station, an art gallery, an events space and a stone courtyard surrounded by greenery, where you can stop and take a break from this city that never sleeps. The cuisine at Combo is based on the concept of sharing.

Breakfast is international, while from noon until late at night the menu is dynamic, intuitive and ideal for a meal, or just a quick break. Offerings include a mixture of Mediterranean flavours, Caribbean influences, street food and traditional Italian dishes. Additionally, the venue’s weekend brunch is an absolute must.

>> thisiscombo.com Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 83. T: 02 36680930.

M1 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

APERITIVI

AFTER DINNER

Ceresio 7

Eppol Milano

Owned by fashion brand Dsquared2, this locale is one of the places to be on Milan’s nightlife scene.

The venue is a hotspot for the city’s beau monde who flock here to enjoy a glamorous aperitivo on the rooftop of an old 1930s industrial building. In addition to two panoramic swimming pools, the venue boasts an unparalleled view over Porta Nuova and its skyscrapers. Ceresio 7’s Happy Hour includes a series of signature cocktails accompanied by classic finger food. It’s ultra-popular so don’t even think of going there without booking! Open daily 12.30pm-1am. www.ceresio7.com. Via Ceresio, 7.

T: 02 31039221. M5 Monumentale. Map E2

Located in the increasingly vibrant Porta Venezia district, Eppol combines a graphic, artistic Milanese background with an atmosphere reminiscent of a 1930s American speakeasy. Décor highlights include exposed brickwork, plant-covered walls, crystal chandeliers and a counter reminiscent of New York locales. Eppol is a bistro and cocktail bar renowned for its painstaking attention to the choice of ingredients. Though oriented towards mixology, its cocktail menu is inventive but not overly experimental. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-1am; Sat-Sun 9.30am-1am. www.eppolmilano.com.

Via M. Malpighi, 7. T: 320 0266560. Map H3

Fioraio Bianchi Caffè

Nottingham Forest

At this charming retro, Parisian-style bistrot, located in the equally picturesque Brera district, you can enjoy a cocktail or a glass of wine, surrounded by myriad varieties of plants and flowers (on sale), artfully stripped walls and exposed brickwork ceilings. At the aperitivo hour, you can order a cocktail or a glass of wine from the venue’s rich menu, accompanied by a buffet of vegetables, meatballs and other tasty nibbles. Open Mon-Sat 8am-midnight. www.fioraiobianchicaffe.it.

Via Montebello, 7. T: 02 29014390. Map F3

Included in the list of 50 best bars in the world, this locale is a true mecca for cocktail enthusiasts. Go there if you enjoy experimentation and are not afraid of unusual consistencies, gelatins, resins, sprouts and molecular essences. Here, amidst Buddhas, Tiki statues, African masks and tropical plants, you’ll find a diverse clientele, all sharing a common objective: a desire to sample unusual, innovative cocktails.

A word to the wise: be patient, the place is tiny, there’s always a large queue outside, and they don’t let large groups in. Open Tues-Sat 6.30pm-2am; Sun 6pm-1am. www.nottingham-forest.com. Viale Piave, 1. T: 02 798312. M1 Palestro. Map H3

N'Ombra de Vin This historic Milanese wine bar, located in a picturesque corner of Milan, next to the Basilica of San Marco, in a one-time 16th century refectory, is packed with customers from aperitivo hour till late at night. A wine bar, bistro and gastro bar rolled into one, it offers a list of prestigious wines with a focus on French labels. In summer, the pavement behind the locale teems with a relaxed crowd of punters.

Open daily 10am-2pm. www.winebarnombradevin. it. Via San Marco, 2. T: 02 6599650. M2 Lanza. Map F3

Otto The signature dish at this light-filled, highly instagrammable space, is its ‘quadrotto’, squareshaped slice of bread topped with fresh ingredients.

Otto is located in the heart of Chinatown, amidst plants and second-hand pieces of furniture. The venue’s aperitivo menu includes a selection of unique, spicy cocktails flavoured with ginger, matcha or lemon grass, as well as the classics, plus a selection of wines and craft beers. At Happy Hour (no buffet included), customers can accompany their drinks with an assortment of platters or dishes all prepared on the same day with high-quality ingredients. Open Tues-Sun 10am-2am; Sun 7pm2am. www.sarpiotto.com. Via P. Sarpi, 8. Map E2

Rita & Cocktails Listed among Italy’s Top 10 cocktail bars, Rita & Cocktails is a great classic on the Milanese cocktail scene. Located on the Naviglio Grande, in a corner that is delightfully detached from the frenzy of the ‘movida’, this locale is a hot favourite with customers from the aperitivo hour until late at night. Behind the counter, longtime owner Edoardo Nono and his partners serve evocatively named cocktails, inspired by their travels around the world. The cocktails, made using only the freshest, primequality ingredients, are accompanied by crudité, canapés and small tasting dishes prepared on-site by the locale’s chef. If you prefer to down a beer and gorge yourself on buffet food, we suggest you head elsewhere. Open daily 6.30pm-2am. Via A. Fumagalli, 1. T: 02 8372865. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map D6

Radio Rooftop Bar This Milanese hotspot, located on the tenth floor of the Me Milan Il Duca hotel, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, attracts an international clientele and offers a remarkable array of classic cocktails. From sunset onwards, plus points include a breathtaking view over the city, in particular, the Porta Nuova district and its skyscrapers. Another key feature is the music – generally sophisticated house that warms the atmosphere without interrupting conversation. Open Sun-Wed 7pm-1am; Thurs-Sat 7pm-1am. radiorooftop.com. Via Marco Polo, 18.

T: 02 84220109. Map G2

Surfer's Den Located on the outskirts of Milan, this charming venue is hidden inside a sports complex and immersed in a semi-wild garden of roses, hydrangeas and surfboards. It’s so far removed from the hustle and bustle of city life that after you’ve sampled one of their cocktails, expertly mixed by its master bartender, you’ll start smelling the sea.

Please Note: since this is a sports complex you need a valid annual pass to get in. The pass costs approximately €10. www.surfersden.it. Piazza Caduti del Lavoro, 1. T: 338 5916764. Off Map

The Spirit We’re on the outskirts of Porta Romana, another area that recently saw the opening of numerous locales. As everyone knows, the most unexpected places are always well hidden. In order to gain access to The Spirit, you need to pass through a black, studded door, with a porthole in the middle.

Once inside, you’ll find yourself immersed in an ambience reminiscent of a luxurious speakeasy, amidst mahogany counters, velvet sofas, mirrors and lighting adding a touch of intimacy and glamour. The drinks list includes high-quality wines and champagnes, exclusive spirits, the world’s best whiskies, aged bourbons and rare Mezcals, all served by expert bartenders. Open Thurs-Sun 6pm-2am. www.thespirit.it. Via Piacenza, 15.

T: 02 84570612. Map G7

Pizza in Milan Whether your ideal pizza is a thin-crust slice or a puffy Neapolitan-inspired round, find the best pizza in Milan.

STARITA A gourmand destination where you can either sample real ‘Neapolitan pizza’ or gourmet creations featuring burrata, truffles and typical Made in Campania products. www.pizzeriestarita.it. Via G. Gherardini, 1 (Sempione district) DA RITA E ANTONIO The ideal spot to savour a light, puffy, pillowy crust, prepared according to time-honoured Campanian traditions and crowned with endless topping options. www.daritaeantonio.it. Via G. Puccini, 2/a c/o Teatro dal Verme (Duomo district).

SORBILLO A mouth watering combination of sour dough, organic extra virgin olive oil and controlled origin tomatoes and mozzarella. www.sorbillo.it. Lievito Madre al Duomo: Largo Corsia dei Servi, 11 (San Babila district).

Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo: via Montevideo 2, corner of via Savona (Navigli district).

PIZZIUM High-quality ingredients in an informal atmosphere. In addition to traditional Neapolitan pizza, the venue also serves numerous other regional options. www.pizzium.com. Via Procaccini, 30 (Sempione district) - Via Anfossi, 1 (Corso XXII Marzo district) - Viale Tunisia, 6 (Centrale district) BERBERÈ At Berberè, the focus is on the dough without a chemical yeast. The pizza is made from living sourdough, using organic, stone ground, semi-whole wheat flou and is topped with delicious ingredients sourced from organic and local Slow Food presidia. www.berberepizza.it Via Sebenico, 21 (Isola district) - Via Vigevano, 8 (Navigli district) SPONTINI A reference point in Milan for pizza slices, Spontini turns out thick, chewy crusts topped with delicious local ingredients.

Several locations.

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61

Sightseeing

STEFANO BOERI ARCHITETTI © PAOLO ROSSELLI

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Beauty refound

BY GIULIA MINERO

A

t the height of the celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of Leonardo da Vinci’s death, the work of another Renaissance artist, Raphael Sanzio, has gone on public view again. After an important restoration lasting four years, Milan’s Pinacoteca Ambrosiana has enhanced its artistic and cultural contributions and is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings 62 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

by the Urbino-born artist. The cartoon was created as a preparatory sketch for the large painting commissioned by Pope Julius II to decorate the Stanza della Segnatura in the Vatican, and was entirely hand-drawn by Raphael. This was a truly remarkable because the famous 16th master often worked with the help of other artists. The work has been hung alone in a room in the Pinacoteca.

This room, known as the Sala Raffaello, was especially redesigned for the occasion by the architectural firm Stefano Boeri Architetti, and enables visitors to get close enough to see the precision of the charcoal strokes and the realism of the large-scale figures depicted. Information panels and multimedia tools outlining the history, technique and restoration of this masterpiece, complete the exhibition. The presentation of Raphael’s cartoon for public viewing is part of a larger project that includes the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana in the promotional activities and artistic circuit dedicated to Renaissance Milan.

>> Il Raffaello dell’Ambrosiana. In principio il Cartone. Pinacoteca Ambrosiana.

Piazza Pio XI, 2. www.raffaeloambrosiana.it

© VENERANDA BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA

Raphael’s Cartoon for the ‘School of Athens’, located just a short distance from Leonardo da Vinci’s ‘Last Supper’ and Michelangelo’s ‘Pietà Rondanini’, is one of the focal points of Renaissance Milan.

The city of Milan is an important cultural, artistic, design and fashion center.

Ambrosiana Picture Gallery The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”.

Don't miss the "Leonardo da Vinci tour" organized

by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. www.ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921.

M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala The Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are housed in three historic buildings overlooking Milan’s elegant via Manzoni, piazza della Scala and via Morone. Two buildings host masterpieces of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent Neo-classical rooms of Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani.

A new section features 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo collections. Open: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm.

Closed on Monday. Full price ticket €10. www.gallerieditalia.com. Piazza della Scala, 6.

T: 800.167619. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

MUSEO DEL DESIGN ITALIANO, in the evocative spaces of the Curva on the ground floor of Triennale, presents a selection of the most iconic and representative pieces of Italian design. Here, the “Joe” armchair (1970). lift, Museum and Tesoro and the Baptistery of San Giovanni alle Fonti). http://museo.duomomilano.it.

Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 72022656.

M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections explore the relationship between men and machines starting from the ingenious inventions of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci. Open Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.00pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 9.30am-6.30pm. Full ticket €10 + Guided tour inside the Enrico Toti submarine €8. www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21.

T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Palazzo Reale Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm;

Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 88465230. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Pinacoteca di Brera Opened to the public in 1809, the Pinacoteca di Brera is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. The Pinacoteca hosts one of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy. Don't miss the new layouts of its rooms. Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-6.15pm (last entrance 5pm). Until 31 December 2020, free access with booking compulsory: brerabooking.org. Visit one of the most important museum websites in Europe: pinacotecabrera.org. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631.

M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone.Map F3

Museo del Design Italiano Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, the Museo del Design Italiano, hosts a selection of the most representative pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. Spread over a surface of 1,300 sq.m, the over 200 works on exhibit are part of the Triennale collection and are displayed in chronological order to provide insights into the history, creative period and context in which each work was designed, as well as the influence they had on daily life objects.

Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Full ticket price €18 (exhibition XXII Triennale di Milano Broken Nature included). www.triennale.org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Off Map

Museo del Duomo Totally refurbished in 2013, the museum houses and highlights all the material not presently in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. Comprising 2,000 square metres of space, twenty seven rooms and thirteen thematic areas, the museum hosts more than two hundred sculptures and over seven hundred gypsum models and then again paintings, stained glass windows, tapestries and architectural models ranging from the 15th century to the present day.

Worthy of particular note are the rooms of the Tesoro, Tintoretto’s “Jesus Among the Doctors”, the imposing wooden model of the cathedral built in 1519 and the tiles of the fifth door of the Duomo

by Lucio Fontana and Luciano Minguzzi. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Wednesday and 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full price ticket €6.

Cumulative ticket 15€ (Terraces of the Duomo by w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 63

ESSENTIALS Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

S7 S8 S9 S11 S7 S8 S9 S11

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

PEA

S2 S4 Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

Cusano Milanino

N.

S1 S3

RONA

S1 S3 Bresso Cormano

Vimodrone

Bollate

S5 S6

S5-S6 RHO Fieramilano S11

COMASINA

Pero PERO

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

Segrate

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S5 S6

Baranzate

Baranzate

PERO

Certosa S5-S6 -S11

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

BIGNAMI Parco Nord PONALE

AFFORI FN

Quarto Oggiaro Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3 S1-S3

Pero

Bruzzano S2-S4

COMASINA

S5-S6 S11

S2-S4

Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11

Tariffa / Fare Tariff 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 5 zone

GORGONZOLA GORGONZOLA

SESTO MARELLI SESTO MARELLI

PONALE

VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO VILLA SAN GIOVANNINORD COLOGNO NORD Greco Bicocca PRECOTTO S7-S8 S9-S11

S9-S11

MARCHE DERGANO MACIACHINI MACIACHINI ZARA

Tariffa / Fare Tariff 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 6 zone

GESSATE

VILLA POMPEA VILLA POMPEA

ISTRIA

Bovisa Politecnico Bovisa PolitecnicoDERGANO S1-S2-S3-S4 S1-S2-S3-S4

GESSATE

S7-S8 S9-S11 CASCINA ANTONIETTA CASCINA ANTONIETTA

SESTO RONDÒ SESTO RONDÒ

BIGNAMI Parco Nord

BICOCCA BICOCCA Greco AFFORI FN Bicocca S2-S4 CA’ GRANDA CA’ GRANDA S7-S8

ISTRIA AFFORI CENTRO AFFORI CENTRO

Villapizzone Certosa S5-S6 -S11 S5-S6 -S11

SESTO 1° MAGGIO SESTOFS 1° MAGGIO S9-S11 FS

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Bruzzano S2-S4

Novate Milanese Novate Milanese RHO Fieramilano

S7-S8

Bresso

Cormano

Bollate

Sesto San Giovanni Sesto San Giovanni

Cinisello Balsamo Cinisello Balsamo

MARCHE ZARA

BUSSERO BUSSERO CASSINA DE’CASSINA PECCHI DE’ PECCHI

Tariffa / Fare Tariff 4 zone Mi1 - Mi44 zone

VILLA FIORITA VILLA FIORITA

Cologno Monzese CERNUSCO S.N. Cologno MonzeseCERNUSCO S.N. PRECOTTO

GORLA

GORLA

TURRO

TURRO

COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE VIMODRONE COLOGNO SUD Vimodrone Vimodrone

Metro automatico per S. Raffaele per S. Raffaele Metro automatico Automatic train toAutomatic S. Raffaeletrain to S. Raffaele CASCINA GOBBA CASCINA GOBBA

Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

ISOLA Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

ROVERETO

ISOLA

MOLINO DORINO MOLINO DORINO MONUMENTALE GIOIA MONUMENTALE S. LEONARDO S. LEONARDO DOMODOSSOLA FN GERUSALEMME DOMODOSSOLA FN GERUSALEMME

SONDRIO CAIAZZO GIOIA

CRESCENZAGO CRESCENZAGO

ROVERETO

PASTEUR SONDRIO

CIMIANO

PASTEUR

LORETO CAIAZZO

UDINE

LORETO

CIMIANO UDINE

LAMBRATE FS LAMBRATE FS BONOLA S9 CENTRALE PIOLA GARIBALDI FSGARIBALDI S9 CENISIO TRE TORRI PIOLA FS FSCENTRALE FS CENISIO TRE TORRI URUGUAY LIMA LIMA LAMPUGNANOLAMPUGNANO PORTELLO PORTELLO S1-S2-S5-S6 S1-S2-S5-S6 S1-S2-S5 S1-S2-S5 QT8 QT8 MOSCOVA MOSCOVA S11-S12-S13 S11-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA REPUBBLICA P.TA VENEZIAP.TA S6-S12-S13 VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 SAN SIRO LOTTO LOTTO S1-S2-S5 S1-S2-S5 Stadio LANZA SAN SIRO SEGESTA LANZA S6-S12-S13 S6-S12-S13 SAN SIRO SEGESTA TURATI TURATI PALESTRO PALESTRO Dateo Dateo Ippodromo IppodromoAMENDOLA AMENDOLA S1-S2 S1-S2 SAN BABILA SAN BABILA S5-S6 S5-S6 MONTENAPOLEONE MONTENAPOLEONE BUONARROTI BUONARROTI PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE S12-S13 S12-S13 DUOMO DUOMO P. Vittoria P. Vittoria Forlanini Forlanini FN CADORNA FN CADORNA WAGNER WAGNER S1-S2-S5 S1-S2-S5 CAIROLI CAIROLI CORDUSIO CORDUSIO S5-S6-S9 S5-S6-S9 S6-S12-S14 S6-S12-S14 MISSORI MISSORI DE ANGELI DE ANGELI S. AMBROGIO S. AMBROGIO CROCETTA CROCETTA GAMBARA GAMBARA S. AGOSTINO S. AGOSTINO P.TA ROMANAP.TA ROMANA BANDE NERE BANDE NERE P. Romana FS P. Romana FS P.TA GENOVA FS P.TA GENOVA FS S9 LODIS9 TIBB S. Cristoforo LODI TIBB PRIMATICCIO PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo BONOLA

URUGUAY

SAN SIRO

Stadio Settimo Milanese Settimo Milanese

Peschiera Borromeo

INGANNI

S9

INGANNI

ROMOLO

Cesano Boscone Cesano Boscone

BRENTA

BRENTA

ASSAGO Milanofiori Nord ASSAGO Milanofi ori Nord Buccinasco P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO Chiesa Rossa Chiesa Rossa

CORVETTO

CORVETTO

PORTO DI MARE PORTO DI MARE ROGOREDO FS ROGOREDO FS

Corsico

ASSAGO ASSAGO Milanofiori Forum Milanofiori Forum

Corsico

io al Serio rio Airports

Assago

S9

Assago

S1-S12-S13

S. DONATO S. DONATO

Rozzano

Rozzano

Opera

Limite Limite tariffa / Fare limit tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S13 tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa Limite abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa Limite / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it.

T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm).

Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900.

Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes.

Can be used on buses, trams or the metro Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h.

Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro.

Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days from the day of the first validation until the end of the service on the third day.

Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro.

Check rates for the extra-urban subway. https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors.

64 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

S1-S12-S13

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare Urban limit passes fare limit

Opera

Peschiera Borromeo Peschiera Borromeo

San Donato Milanese San Donato Milanese

S9

Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 UNDERGROUND LINE 1 UNDERGROUND LINE 1 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3

S5 S6

ROMOLO

FAMAGOSTA FAMAGOSTA Buccinasco

Segrate

S9

BISCEGLIE

BISCEGLIE

Segrate

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S5 S6

Cusano Milanino

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

A

S2 S4

Limite tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

UNDERGROUND NETWORK & URBAN RAILWAY SYSTEM

PECCHI

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

OLA

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

TE

ANTONIETTA

Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 Tariffa / Fare Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

S12 S1S13

S1 S12

Stazione(ascensori) accessibile (ascensori) Stazione accessibile Step-free Step-free station (lifts) station (lifts)

73 perdiAeroporto di Linate Linea 73 perLinea Aeroporto Linate LineAirport 73 to Linate Airport Line 73 to Linate

Stazione(montascale) accessibile (montascale) Stazione accessibile Step-free station (stairlifts) Step-free station (stairlifts)

Bus perdiAeroporto di Linate, Malpensa e Orio al Serio Bus per Aeroporto Linate, Malpensa e Orio al Serio Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Airports Orio al Serio Airports Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio

ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point:and information and sales point ATM Point: information sales point

Malpensa Express Malpensa Express

Lineeregionali ferroviarie regionali Linee ferroviarie Regional railways Regional railways

bus lunga percorrenza Terminal busTerminal lunga percorrenza Long Long distance busdistance terminal bus terminal

con rete ferroviaria InterscambioInterscambio con rete ferroviaria Connection with railway system Connection with railway system

Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM ATM car park ATM car park

BIKE SHARING - Public bicycle transport system

to be used for short trips. Available everyday, from 6am to midnight. www.bikemi.com KICK-SCOOTER - The most enjoyable ride

in the city is provided by Wind Mobility, Bit Mobility, Helbiz Italia, Bird, EM Transit, Ride Hive Operations, LMTS Italy, Govolt and Voi Technology.

CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. Purchase your Combo tickets for top attractions on board at special prices. www.zaniviaggi.com Map E4

Tourist Information INFOPOINT - TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN Piazza Duomo, 14 Multilingual tourist assistance and information; free distribution of maps and brochures.

Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it infotourist@comune.milano.it You can also find tourist information in the brand new office: YESMILANO TOURISM SPACE-CAMERA DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 A highly-digital environment created to "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it infotourismspace@mi.camcom.it

Courtesy ATM – Update Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

9

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

• EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police.

• PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

4h 01m

3h 40m

48m

Street markets (see map pages 62-63) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters.

Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti)

37m

2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month.

Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO (STAMPS AND COINS) – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays.

Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo.

4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market. Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino.

5. ANTIQUE AND SECOND-HAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August).

Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo.

6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market.

Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org.

Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori.

7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, as well as street food.

Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm.

Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza.

9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists.

Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm).

10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance

T: 892020. www.italotreno.it TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Trains

Airports

TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’.

Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains.

• Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min For more info about the Italy-Switzerland railway connections: www.trenitalia.com or www.ffs.ch.

(www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304.

Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station.

Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca.

Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it).

Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949.

MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h.

T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it.

• Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’.

Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com).

T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it).

T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 65

A

B

C

D

E

Milano Map CENTRAL MAP at page 34

1

9



15

Malpensa Airport (45km)

2

Rho Fairgrounds 12

11 San Siro

Stadium

3 14

3

4

11

4

12

5

6

7

Copyright Proedi Comunicazione. © 2020

4

2

10

10

1

LEGENDA

SHOPPING AREAS

A

1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

B

3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante

C

5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino

D

7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires

9 Corso XXII Marzo 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese

E

F

G

H

I

L

1

13

7

2

8

8

6

3

8 3

7

4

6 4

2 1

3

9 5

5

2

1

5

10

9

5

ď ‘

Linate City Airport (6 km)

7

6

6

7 11 Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera 12 CityLife Shopping District

F

ENTERTAINMENT AREAS

TOP IN TOWN See page 4

G

Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana

H

I

LEONARDO DISTRICT

L

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine

5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2

4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio –Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1

Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Matilde Boutique Hotel – Via Spadari, 1 • F5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3 NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP

NH Milano Palazzo Moscova – Via Monte Grappa, 12b • MAP F2 NH Milano Touring – Via U. Tarchetti, 2 • G3 NH Milano 2 – Via F.lli Cervi - Segrate (Milano 2) • OFF MAP NHOW Milano – Via Tortona, 35 • C6 Novotel Milano Malpensa Aeroporto – Via al Campo, 99 Cardano al Campo (VA) • Off Map Nu – Via Feltre, 19/b • Off Map NYX Milan – Piazza IV Novembre, 3 . G1 Oro Blu – Piazzale Lotto, 14, corner of Via Veniero • MAP B2 Osteria della Pista – Via Verbano, 1 (Casorate Sempione, VA) • OFF MAP Palazzo delle Stelline – Corso Magenta, 61 • E4 Palazzo Segreti – Via San Tomaso, 8 • E4 Phi Hotel Milano – Via Falzarego, 1 (Baranzate) • OFF MAP Pioppeto – Via Strà Madonna, 15 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Radisson Blu – Via Villapizzone, 24 • OFF MAP Raffaello – Viale Certosa, 108 • OFF MAP Ramada Plaza– Via d’Ancona, 27 • OFF MAP Regina – Via C. Correnti, 13 • E5 Residence Desenzano Milano – Via Desenzano, 12 • A5 Residence Romana – Corso di Porta Romana, 64 • G6 Room Mate Giulia – Via Silvio Pellico, 4 • F4 Royal Garden – Via G. Di Vittorio, Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Sanpi – Via L. Palazzi, 18 • G3 Savona 18 Suites – Via Savona, 18 • Map D6 Senato Hotel Milano – Via Senato, 22 • E5 Sheraton Diana Majestic – Viale Piave, 42 • H3 Sheraton Milan Malpensa Airport – Ferno (VA) Aeroporto Malpensa 2000, Terminal 1 • OFF MAP Sheraton Milan San Siro – Via Caldera, 21 • OFF MAP Silver – Via R. Lombardi, 9/11• OFF MAP SINA De la Ville – Via U. Hoepli, 6 • F5 Spadari al Duomo – Via Spadari, 11 • F5 Star – Via dei Bossi, 5 • Map F4 Starhotels Anderson – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 20 • H1 Starhotels Business Palace – Via Privata Pietro Gaggia, 3 • OFF MAP Starhotels Echo – Viale A. Doria, 4 • H1 Starhotels Grand Milan – Via Varese, 23 – Saronno (VA) • OFF MAP Starhotels Ritz – Via L. Spallanzani, 40 • H3 Starhotels Rosa Grand – Piazza Fontana, 3 • F5 Straf – Via San Raffaele, 3 • F4 Sunflower – Piazzale Lugano, 10 • OFF MAP Terminal – Via Ponte Seveso, 38 • Map G1 The Hub – Via Privata Polonia, 10 • OFF MAP The Originals Hotel Milan Nasco – Corso Sempione, 69 • C1 The Square Milano Duomo – Via Albricci, 2-4 • F5 The Yard Milano – Piazza XXIV Maggio, 8 • E6 Tocq Hotel – Via A.De Tocqueville, 7/D • F2 TownHouse 33 Boutique Hotel – Via C. Goldoni, 33 • H4 Trova il Tempo – Via Novara, 216 • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Century Milano – Via F. Filzi, 25/b • G2 UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano – Via Cusani, 13 • E4 UNAHOTELS Expo Fiera Milano – Via G. Keplero, 12 – Pero (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Malpensa – Via F. Turati, 84 – Cerro Maggiore (MI) • OFF MAP UNAHOTELS Mediterraneo Milano– Via L. Muratori 14 • H6 UNAHOTELS Scandinavia Milano – Via G.B. Fauché, 15 • C1 UNAHOTELS The One Milano – Via Maastricht, 3 (San Donato) • OFF MAP UNAWAY Contessa Jolanda Hotel & Residence Milano – Via G. Murat, 21 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Linea Uno Hotel & Residence Milano – Viale Monza, 139 • OFF MAP UNAWAY Quark Due Hotel & Residence Milano – Via Lampedusa, 11/3 • OFF MAP Vittoria – Via P. Calvi, 32 • H5 Uptown Palace – Via Santa Sofia, 10 • F6 Windsor Hotel Milano – Via G. Galilei, 2 • G2 Worldhotel Cristoforo Colombo – Corso Buenos Aires, 3 • H3 Vittoria - Via P. Calvi, 32 • H4-H5 Zara Milano – Viale Zara, 28 • OFF MAP

MILA N

NOVEM

BER

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CIT Y TIPS ON LUX SHO URY PPI DINING NG, AN ENT ERTAIN D MENT HOW ENJOYTO YOU WIN R E IN ITA TASTING LY

®

WW

W.W

HER

EMIL

JUM INTOP FRID A’S VISIO N

MORE ON WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM/DISTRIBUTION

Th e life of Fri , art and da tor multim Ka hlo in me nt a edi a exh ibit new ion

SIGHT

68 W H E R E M I L A N I N O V E M B E R 2020

CITY GUID E

2020

SEEING

| MU SEU

MS | SHOP

米兰旅 行免费 指南

PING

| DIN ING

| EN TER

TAINM

ENT

扫码使 米兰小 用体验 程序

| MA PS

AN.C

OM

Your personal travel assistant now in the best hotels in Milan!

FREE CALLS

HOTEL INFO & SERVICES

FREE INTERNET

CITY GUIDE by

www.manetmobile.com info@manetmobile.com

HOTSPOT WIFI

TICKETS & EVENTS