Where Paris - March 2014 by Where Paris

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PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE 速

THE ARTS ON STAGE The Shanghai Ballet Company Comes to Paris

FASHION

CULTURE

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ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

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BUCHERER THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

WATCHES DIAMANTS JEWELRY Rolex · Baume & Mercier · Blancpain · B Swiss · Carl F. Bucherer · Chopard · Girard-Perregaux IWC · Jaeger-LeCoultre · A. Lange & Söhne · Longines · Mido · Montblanc · Oris · Officine Panerai · Piaget Rado · Roger Dubuis · Tissot · Tudor · Vacheron Constantin · Van Cleef & Arpels · Zenith

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12, boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris | bucherer.com

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PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

[THE GUIDE] 16 SHOPPING

The city’s latest boutique openings, trends and address book for everything fashion

10 82

42 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibits, tradeshows and must-see monuments 52 DINING

Our selection of restaurants for every mood and every taste 68 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s hottest bars, clubs and ballets 78 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings

M A RC H 2 0 14

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

THE ARTS ON STAGE

08 Hot Dates This month’s calendar of hot dates

10 A Touch of France We introduce you to the emblematic products, objects and savoir-faire that have emerged from every corner of France

14 The Arts on Stage This month the city’s love for the arts extends to the stage where ballet and comedy take centre stage

82 My Paris Head Concierge Eric Brulant shares with us his very own Paris

The Shanghai Ballet Company Comes to Paris

FASHION

CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS

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ON THE COVER

Shanghai Ballet Company © Lunxun Chen Turn to page 14 for our round up of this month’s spectacular shows

CROWNING HEADS MACHINE EXHIBIT PHOTO © DANA AND STEPHANE MAITEC; PLACE DE LA CONCORDE © THINKSTOCK; FAN BY DUVELLEROY PHOTO © GUILLAUME ROUJAS/MAISON DUVELLEROY

CONTENTS

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Facebook.com/whereparismagazine Twitter.com/whereparis

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the team |

[ o c to b e r i n Pa r i s ]

where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and General manager

Pascal Tranchant Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@morriseurope.com EDITOR Sandra Iskander*

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton Designers

Lee Henry, Shia-Ying Wallis PRODUCTION MANAGER/london Melanie Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANT David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Made in France

Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti* Designer and production Manager Céline Février* Designer and WEB DESIGNER Laura Zaharia*

France has always been known for its savoir-faire and this month we introduce you to some of its emblematic products and objects, everything from chic couture to scented candles.

advertising - SENIOR account managers

Corinne Durant*, Jana Herrmann* advertising - account managerS

Delphine Ivanchenko* DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER

Suzanne Tang*

We also bring you our round up of great shows not to miss while you are visiting the French capital. If you are looking for a laugh you must not miss Olivier Giraud’s fantastic stand-up show or Les Sea Girls’s tongue-in-cheek burlesque show, while the Shanghai Ballet Company bring their signature ballets to the Palais des Sports de Paris. In this issue we also unveil Moonshiner, the city’s new speakeasy where the socialites and fashionistas meet for fabulous cocktails. And for a romantic dinner for two in the City of Love don’t forget to turn to page 58 for our top tables with a view.

SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT

Jennifer Groult* OFFICE MANAGER Emmanuelle Marquet* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler

MVP i CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS

Fashionistas will also find plenty to shop for with the city’s new boutiques as well as our top shopping selection for both him and her. We hope you enjoy this issue and your stay in Paris.

Chairman & CEO William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 54,080 (OJD 2013). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: mars 2014. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

where PariS supports:

Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

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DISCOVER A PLACE WHERE THE FINEST BOUTIQUES OFFER MINIMUM REDUCTIONS OF 33%* WITH SPECIAL OFFERS OF EXTRA SAVINGS† AND TAX-FREE SHOPPING‡ HOME TO 115 BOUTIQUES INCLUDING ARMANI · DIANE VON FURSTENBERG · JIMMY CHOO · KENZO · LONGCHAMP MARNI · PAUL & JOE · PAUL SMITH · SALVATORE FERRAGAMO · SUPERDRY SONIA RYKIEL · TOD’S · UGG AND MANY MORE †

-10% for any purchase in three of your favourite boutiques (upon presentation of your Shopping Express® ticket at the Welcome Center) when travelling from Paris (ParisCityVision agency / Metro Pyramides) with the Shopping Express® (35 minutes). Book online at LaValleeVillage.com/shoppingexpress or call the ParisCityVision agency on +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00.

*and sometimes more off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. ‡Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. © La Vallée Village 2013

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MARCH

WEDNESDAY

BEAUTIFUL PHOTOGRAPHY Starting today and through to the 22nd of this month, Galerie Anne & Just Jaeckin will be hosting Crowning Heads Machine, a photo exhibit by Dana and Stéphane Maitec. 19 rue Guénégaud (6th), 01 43 26 73 65

BARBIE PHOTO © MAGIA2000; CROWNING HEADS MACHINE EXHIBIT PHOTO © DANA AND STEPHANE MAITEC; FINDING NEMO PHOTO DISNEY·PIXAR. FLOWER IMAGE © SSSSS1GMEL/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

HOT DATES

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SATURDAY

AN ANIMATED WEEKEND

Don’t miss your last chance to take in Pixar, 25 Years of Animation. Closing tomorrow, this exhibit brings together sketches, storyboards and sculptures of some of the most famous Pixar movie characters including those of Ratatouille and Toy Story. A fun and cultural experience for children and big kids. Art Ludique-Le Musée 34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th)

MONDAY

MOTIF MOTIVATIONS

TUESDAY

Through to the 29th of March visit Talents, the Ateliers d’Art de France boutique, where you can discover Cent Motifs (100 motifs), an exhibit showcasing works by contemporary crafts-workers and asks the question, does a motif merely decorate an object or does it inspire the creation of the object? 1bis rue Scribe (9th), 01 40 17 98 38

WEDNESDAY

A VOGUING BREAK

Take a fashionable break while shopping at the Printemps department store and head to their ephemeral café, Café Vogue, and enjoy an espresso with a piece of Hugo & Victor’s famous salted caramel millefeuille. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 50 00

RETRO BARBIE

Meet Retro Chic Barbie at Musée de la Poupée. The museum is exhibiting vintage looks of the most famous doll in the world, including her 60’s Suburban Shopper and Golden Glamour looks. On show you will also discover Barbie’s Magia2000 Haute Couture looks, created by Italian duo Mario Paglino and Gianni Grossi. This is a fun exhibit for young Barbie fans. Impasse Berthaud (3rd), 01 42 72 73 11

FRIDAY

A SMELL OF SPRING Take a walk through Jardin du Luxembourg and celebrate the first day of Spring.

THURSDAY

TANDEM BITES

Bite into HäagenDazs’s delicious Täandem éclair, a double-flavoured éclair, as you stroll along the most famous avenue in the world. 49 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 77 68 68

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[ M A R C H i n P ar i s ]

A TOUCH OF FRANCE

Emblematic products, objects and savoir-faire from every corner of France.

BY P ATRI C IA VALI C E NTI

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MELLERIO DITS MELLER PHOTO © MELLERIO DITS MELLER

andles, couture, cosmetics, leather goods are all on the agenda of course but so are the harder to come by fans, parasols and even a monumental sculpture. Some firms have the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant, the Living Heritage Company, label, a mark of recognition of the French State, put in place to reward French companies for the excellence of their traditional and industrial skills. It was back in 1643 when a merchant named Claude Trudon came to Paris and opened a grocery store on the rue Saint-Honoré. Among his wares were finely crafted candles for both private customers and parishes. This was back when wax was carefully harvested from beehives, cleaned, bleached and dried in the open air. The purity of the wax gave Trudon candles a magnificent glow. The house supplied the court of Louis XIV and the leading churches of France, thus the house’s motto, “Bees work for God and the King”. Tucked away in the countryside of Normandy, Cire (meaning wax) Trudon’s workshop factory continues to produce fine candles in beeswax and vegetable waxes for private and church use as it has been since the 17th century, along with scented candles. Tradition, know-how and fine craftsmanship come together at the house of Duret Paris established in the heart of the 16th arrondissement for over a decade now. The house is among the last in the French capital to create unique, small, bespoke leather goods fashioned entirely by hand ranging from belts, bags, wallets, dog collars and more. The bespoke customer can choose from a wide range of materials, ranging from crocodile to ostrich, finishings and colours. The leathers and skins are selected from the most reputable tanneries in Europe and the house’s belts are unique with each buckle designed by the house’s founder Mickaël Benarroch. The story of Melvita, one of the pioneers of organic cosmetics, unfolded in an isolated farm in the countryside of the rural Ardèche region of France. Bernard Chevilliat and his brother became migrating beekeepers, transporting their hives from place to place depending on the flowers in season. In 1983 they created Melvita, a first line of cosmetics emanating from honey and honey byproducts. The first product was the now iconic hexagon-shaped honey soap. Shampoo, bath products and creams made from all natural ingredients soon followed. Today, Melvita belongs to the Occitane Group and the

cosmetics and beauty care products are still made in the Ardèche, a kilometre away from that isolated farm where it all began. Meanwhile, right in the old, yet ever fashionable Le Marais neighbourhood of Paris, fine gold and silversmithing is being played out in a workshop of yesteryear. The house of Lapparra, a Living Heritage Company, founded in 1892, crafts fine French table arts for the most prestigious jewellers and the aristocracy of the world. Candelabras, flatware, champagne buckets, serving platters, napkin rings, salt and pepper shakers and more are made here using ancestral silversmith traditions. The house creates, essentially, exclusive designs for its customers throughout the world. Fourteen generations have succeeded one another at Mellerio dits Meller, the last independent French house of high jewellery, Opposite page: Cire Trudon candles. Clockwise from top: The hand of man at work in the workshops of Mellerio dits Meller; A Duret Paris belt; A Nautilus themed precious object by Lapparra

most probably the oldest jewellery house in the world and a Living Heritage Company. Specialists in high quality gemstones, the house’s jewellery creations continue to be wrought today in their workshops in the heart of Paris above their boutique at 9 rue de la Paix. It was 400 years ago that the queen Marie de’ Medici granted the Mellerio family the privilege of exercising their profession in France as creators of precious objects. Mellerio has furnished the queens of all of the countries of Europe since the time of Marie de’ Medici with their haute jewellery creations and continues to fashion fine jewels for a clientele ranging from European aristocracy to fashion icons. In the market for a monumental metal sculpture or a smaller piece stamped Made in France? The internationally renowned designer Arik Levy made his monumental, sculptural RockGrowth with TF (The Tôlerie Forézienne), a company based in the region of Lyon, which since 2007 has applied its timeless savoir-faire with metals in conceiving metal works for both public and private special orders. Their expertise is all about the art of cutting, polishing, folding and fashioning steel, stainless steel and aluminium, among other metals, into an artist’s design. On a couture note, Francesco Smalto, the masculine luxury readyto-wear label was established in Paris by the designer of the same name in 1962 and for the last 50 years, with over 30 craftsmen and master designers, Smalto has been perpetuating the house’s tradition of made-to-measure suits in the heart of Paris where tailors and cutters spend an average of 70 hours on a custom-made item.

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...WITH OVER 30 CRAFTSMEN AND MASTER DESIGNERS, SMALTO TAILORS AND CUTTERS SPEND AN AVERAGE OF 70 HOURS ON A CUSTOM-MADE ITEM.

Fan by Duvelleroy (top photo) and a Fauré Le Page flask The house’s bespoke tailoring is entirely done by hand with a unique pattern fitting the exact measurements of the customer. The house, which is a Living Heritage Company, is currently manufacturing, as well, in its Paris workshops a unique bespoke pieces collection that will be revealed in Paris later this year. The house of Heurtault offers a unique halt in the French capital. Here hand-made luxury, couture, made-to-measure umbrellas and parasols are hand-fashioned by Michel Heurtault who received last November the prestigious French distinction of Master of Art for his unique and exceptional savoir-faire and whose company is labelled a Living Heritage Company. Beautiful wedding parasols all in white featuring lace details are among the wonders that emerge from his Parisian workshop. Another collection of parasols is adorned with intricate embroidery. Solid umbrellas for men and women, thoroughly dependable in the wind and wail of a Parisian rainstorm are also fashioned within while madeto measure items are made with waterproof silk. Paris is also home to a fabulous fan-maker. The house of Duvelleroy, today a Living Heritage Company, was founded in 1827 and the fanmaker to the queens of the 19th century is one of the only Parisian houses of fans to have survived to this day. In 2010, Raphaëlle de Panafieu and Eloïse Gilles partnered with the house’s last heir, who had kept the pleating moulds, vintage fans and sketches,

and together threw themselves into resurrecting the house. Today, couture fans, designer fans and custom fans for special events as well as hair ornaments continue to emerge from the house that was the official fan supplier to Queen Victoria. Precious materials like mother of pearl, veined horn and pheasant feathers take shape in the hands of a dozen highly specialised craftsmen among them embroiders, pleat makers and engravers. All of the fans are fashioned in France and are stamped with the Muriel Grateau tableware

house’s long time symbol, a daisy. Ribbons, bows and delicate feathers are all part of the aesthetics of Jaimies’s lovely line of home wear slippers, carefully fashioned in France. Nathalie Jame, who hails from Alsace, wondered why slippers on offer were geared solely towards comfort and not necessarily towards good-looking fashion and style. In 1991, her first two models, created with the assistance of a designer, emerged: a ballerina style shoe and a moccasin in velvet. Samples in hand she set out to conquer the exclusive stores of Paris. Manufactured exclusively in France in satin, velvet and micro-fibres, Jaimies slippers are now exported around the world to Switzerland, Japan and Saudi Arabia and can also be ordered to measure. Shoemaker Walter Steiger launched into the adventure of fashioning custom-made

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At work in Smalto’s made to measure workshop

FAN BY DUVELLEROY PHOTO © GUILLAUME ROUJAS/MAISON DUVELLEROY; SMALTO’S MADE TO MEASURE WORKSHOP PHOTOS © SMALTO; TABLEWARE BY MURIEL GRATEAU PHOTO COURTESY MURIEL GRATEAU; MICHEL HEURTAULT IN HIS WORKSHOP PHOTO © STÉPHANE MONSERANT

Michel Heurtault in his workshop

shoes in Paris for men and women in 2009. Made in the heart of the French capital, the client selects every aspect of the shoe for him or herself: the leather, colour, construction and finishings. The original Steiger made-to-measure workshop was founded in 1932 in Geneva. Walter, the eldest son of the founder mastered his father’s techniques and then opened a first store in Paris in 1974 followed by London and New York. Today the third generation of Steigers, Giulio and Paul, carry on. Founded early in the reign of Louis XV, the house of Fauré Le Page earned the reputation of being the master gunsmith to kings and princes. The establishment supplied hunting pieces to the European courts and customers included Louis XVI and Napoleon. Seven generations of the same family would write the house’s history until 1925 after which a number of other families succeeded one another at the head of the establishment. Today, the privately held family house fashions luxury bags, accessories and gun-holders with its iconic “scale” motif. The fish scale, the maker’s hallmark motif, is based on the material that protects a number of animals. The écaille or scale fabric is handcrafted: screenprinting is followed by waxing and graining giving the fabric its suppleness, glossy feel and incredible toughness. Classic articles are crafted in the house’s historic workshops in Paris and northern France and some of the more original articles include boot bags, a folding beater’s stool, and a spirits flask in addition to classic bags. Finely made table arts of the hand of man are created in the manufacture of designer Muriel Grateau. Her ceramics, she produces only 10,000 high fashion plates annually, are made in

the scenic Allier region of central France near the town of Couleuvre and then showcased in her Left Bank Parisian gallery. Glittering gold, understated black and white pop art and shades of green bring a certain colourful elegance to the table, for the designer is known as one of the finest colourists working in fashion and tableware today. Gripoix is a mythical name in the universe of vintage fantasy jewellery. Founded in 1869, it literally incarnates the house of Parisian luxury fantasy jewellery par excellence. Its history is studded with brilliant collaborations with the leading houses, which include Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Balmain and Worth. Marie Keslassy discovered the house in 2006 and today is the driving force behind the house’s renaissance. Each collection features necklaces, sautoirs, earrings, cuff bracelets, bracelets, rings, pins and belts but also accessories for the hair and head, ankle bracelets and toe rings. The specific knowhow and living heritage of the house have been artfully conserved and each piece is fashioned in the house’s Parisian studios on rue Vertbois. One of the unique techniques in the hands of the house’s master craftsman is that of glass casting, for some pieces using this technique, hundreds of hours of handwork are required.

ADDRESS BOOK CIRE TRUDON 78 rue de Seine (6th), 01 43 26 46 50 DURET PARIS 14 ave George V (8th), 01 47 20 53 56 DUVELLEROY (showroom by appointment only) 67 rue du Bac (7th), 01 45 51 36 52 FAURÉ LE PAGE 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09 82 50 92 30 GRIPOIX 16 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01 42 77 74 86 HEURTAULT Viaduc des Arts, 85 ave Daumesnil (12th), 01 44 73 45 71 JAIMIES Available at Boutique Cordelia, 21 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 60 02 09 Call Nathalie Jame for bespoke items on 01 46 05 21 00 LAPPARRA 157 rue du Temple (3rd), 01 42 72 16 20 MELLERIO DITS MELLER 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 57 53 MELVITA 96 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 44 86 38 MURIEL GRATEAU 37 rue de Beaune (7th), 01 40 20 42 82 SMALTO 44 rue François 1er (8th), 01 47 20 96 04 By appointment only for the Bespoke Collection: 2 rue de Bassano (16th) TÔLERIE FORÉZIENNE 04 77 55 17 10 www.tolerie-forezienne.com

A belt from Gripoix’s Jaipur collection

WALTER STEIGER 33 ave Matignon (8th), 01 45 63 99 18

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[ M AR C H i n P a r i s ]

The arts on Stage By Sandra Iskander

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The White Haired Girl (opposite page) performs solo and is joined by the talented dancers on stage (this photo and below) to tell her story

Olivier Giraud

Shanghai ballet photos © Lunxun Chen; sea girls Photo © Espion du Rock

The Shanghai Ballet Company’s A Sign of Love

Les Sea Girls

he French capital is renowned for its love of culture, from its worldfamous museums to the avant-garde art galleries, this city exudes history and culture. This month the city’s love for the arts extends to the stage where the Shanghai Ballet Company performs their sensual A Sign of Love and their well-known performance of The White Haired Girl. Comedy also takes centre stage with French comedian Olivier Giraud and the outrageous Les Sea Girls celebrate life with humour and sass. The Shanghai Ballet Company, the official ballet company for Shanghai, is known for its blend of traditional and western dance styles. And this month the troupe is coming to the City of Light to perform their signature ballets, A Sign of Love and The White Haired Girl. Cabaret influences and a combination of jazz and classic music sets the tone for A Sign of Love, a love story set in decadent Shanghai in the twenties. Meanwhile, The White Haired Girl is based on a Chinese legend, which tells the story of a peasant girl, her adventures and her tormented destiny. French comedian Olivier Giraud is not only funny but is very honest about Parisians and their behaviour. His successful standup routine, How to Become Parisian in One Hour? is a fantastically hilarious show that will have you in stitches at the end of the night. Performing his routine in English, Olivier will

educate you on how you can adapt the je ne sais quoi attitude of the Parisians. From ordering at cafes to shopping and even getting a seat on the metro, he will tell you how you can become Parisian in one short hour. The tongue-in-cheek burlesque show Les Sea Girls brings together four best friends to one of the city’s oldest music halls, La Nouvelle Eve. With their colourful costumes, the girls sing and dance and even perform a little bit of magic as they guide you through the ups and downs of their lives and entertain you with their love of performing. Shanghai Ballet Company March 13-20 Palais des Sports de Paris 1 place de la Porte de Versailles (15th), 01 48 28 40 10 Tickets available at Fnac Olivier Giraud Performed in English Théâtre des Nouveautés 24 blvd Poissonnière (9th), 01 47 70 52 76 Les Sea Girls Through to March 29 Performed in French La Nouvelle Eve 25 rue Pierre Fontaine (9th), 01 48 74 69 25 Tickets available at Fnac w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 15

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W H E R E PA R I S

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

FEMININE VALLI Pleats, folds and bows, Giambattista Valli’s spring/summer collection this year is feminine with an edge. Neutral colours heavily make up this collection that features beautifully cut fun pieces including shorts and midriff-baring tops. The ready-to-wear collection also features a couple of colourful pieces including an elegant lilac rose dress with blooming floral detailing. Galerie de la Madeleine 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 40 17 05 88 16 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2014

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[SHOPPING]

OMEGA TIMES TWO The prestigious watchmaker Omega has opened a boutique on both the Left Bank and the Right Bank of the French capital. Sophisticated and luxurious, both boutiques offer clients a chic space to peruse the Swiss watchmaker’s emblematic timepieces including the Speedmaster Professional as well as discover a dazzling selection of the house’s fine jewellery. Both boutiques are open from Monday to Saturday. Left Bank boutique 12 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 45 44 11 34 Right Bank boutique 35 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01 40 15 12 20

AGENT PROVOCATEUR The famous name in sexy lingerie recently opened a sexy boudoir on the oh-sochic rue Cambon in the fashion capital. The intimate boutique showcases the latest collection that was inspired by the pristine and glossy suburban housewife of the 1950s, which features soft hues, sexy lace and girlnext-door gingham. The boutique also offers fun accessories for the bedroom. 12 rue Cambon (1st), 01 42 61 79 54

C H O PA R D IN SILVER at the Louvre

Specialising in silver, Argenterie d’Antan is where you will find

In the heart of the Carrousel du Louvre, where culture

beautifully crafted silverware dating from the 18th century to today.

meets history, is where Chopard has opened their

The antiques range from the silver plated to the solid silver, with every

new boutique within the Printemps store. The name famous for fine jewellery and exquisite timepieces has created an intimate and welcoming ambiance for clients to enter into and discover their new offerings as well as the house’s iconic collections. In a décor

piece telling a story of its time. The boutique specialises in pieces of French origin with items by Christofle, Ercuis and Puiforcat, and if you are looking for a particular heirloom the owner of the

with leather, silk and velvet detailing be seduced by

boutique is happy to play

the Happy Sport, Mille Miglia and Happy Diamonds

detective to find it for you.

collections.

6 rue de Birague (4th),

Printemps du Louvre

01 42 71 31 91

99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 76 77 41 00

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W H E R E PA R I S

COLOURFUL STEPS Brighten up your step with a pair of Fratelli Rossetti derby shoes. 237 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 65 26 60

CAVIAR LOVE Gift her with Prunier’s Yves Saint Laurent Love box of decadent caviar. 15 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 47 42 98 98

FOR HER FASHION POPS Add a pop of colour with this cherry red bag from Hugandyou. 18 rue Maître-Albert (5th), 01 46 34 15 68

FOR YOUR WRIST Add a touch of art deco to your outfit with this Skalli cuff bracelet. 80 rue de Provence (9th), 01 45 26 84 67

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[SHOPPING]

HIPSTER STEPS Embrace your inner hipster and step into a pair of Dior metallic high-top sneakers. 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 40 73 73 73

HATS OFF Add boyish charm to your outfit with a Stetson hat. Available at Le Bon Marché, 24 Rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 80 00

FOR HIM

WINDING DOWN Relax after a long day with Ron Dorff ’s Sauna Swedish massage candle that transforms from wax to massage oil in minutes. 54 rue Charlot (3rd), 09 83 66 31 13

COFFEE LOVER For the man who appreciates a good cup of coffee, this barista roll complete with a measuring cup and scales is an ideal gift. Malongo Café, 50 rue Saint-André (6th), 01 43 26 47 10

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❁

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Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

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❁ ❁Marina Rinaldi Wempe ❁Ralph Lauren ❁ Lancaster ❁ Bcbgmaxazria Kenzo❁ ❁ Max Mara

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Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

❁

RUE ANJOU ❁Saint Laurent ❁Boucheron ❁Givenchy ❁Hermès

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15 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 44 56 09 90 www.testoni.com

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23 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré – Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 66 69 30 31 rue François 1er – Paris 8th Tel: 01 49 52 09 59 www.corneliani.com

The luxury Italian brand a.testoni has been synonymous with Made in Italy craftsmanship since 1929. Such a long experience in shoemaking, mixed with a contemporary freshness in style, enables a.testoni to propose unique shoes, bags, small leather goods, leather coats and jackets for men and women.

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11/02/2014 15:29

WP PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE.indd 1

05/02/2014 09:18

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22 W H E R E Pa r i s I M AR C H 2014

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The world of Beretta in the heart of Paris

Beretta Gallery 57, Rue Pierre Charron (Crossing Champs-Élysées) Pure Italian lifestyle celebrating the outdoor. PARIS - BUENOS AIRES - DALLAS - LONDON - MILANO - NEW YORK

beretta.com

WP BERETTA GALLERY.indd 1

estore.beretta.com

05/02/2014 09:20

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

❁

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

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RUE DE RIVOLI

24 W H E R E Pa r i s I M AR C H 2014

❁ Longchamp ❁Tara Jarmon ❁Dodo

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❁Bally ❁Blumarine ❁Burberry ❁Ermenegildo Zegna ❁Leonard ❁Salvatore Ferragamo ❁

Roger Vivier❁ Heurgon❁ Glashütte Original❁ Corneliani❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁

63, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: 01 40 17 93 15 - paris@vhernier.fr www.vhernier.com

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Apostrophe❁

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

❁ ❁ Caron

RUE DE SURÈNE

SHOP STOP

Frette❁

Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.

RÈ

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Montagut

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

VHERNIER

❁Valentino

11/02/2014 15:31

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 130 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 28 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will ﬁ nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LOND ON PARIS NEW YORK WEMPE.COM

We accept all credit cards.

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WHERE LUXURY [SHOPPING] VENDÔME

SHOP STOP

GARE SAINT-LAZARE

❁

Mephisto

❁ L’Occitane ❁ Swarovski

COUR DU HAVRE

RUE DU HA VRE

SAINT-LAZARE PASSAGE DU HAVRE

Printemps Homme

❁ ❁Citadium

Printemps Beauté-Maison

BUCHERER PARIS

❁

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

RUE D

Guerlain ❁

RC L’A

HAVRE CAUMARTIN ❁

Lafayette

Laf

EV AR

aye

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❁ Galeries

AU S

Lafayette

iso

AU RO Y

OT D

IGN

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN LAF LAFAYETTE Sephora❁

Image

Fragonard ❁ OPÉRA

RUE

CAU

MAR TIN

❁ A Mon IBE

O N CH TR RU E

R BE AU

SHOP STOP

❁ Galeries

E RU

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: 01 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

❁

E PRO VENC

Printemps Mode

Golfino ❁

❁

❁Maje

L’Occitane

Bucherer Tag Heuer ❁❁ ❁ Basler

OPÉRA Lancel

❁

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

E CIN

RÉ

HO T-

DA N

IEL

IÈ

NO VA

U SO

CA SA

LA DE E RU

Honoré Paris PYRAMIDES ❁ Saint ❁ Jo Malone ES ID ❁ Bonpoint M Colette❁ RA Chantal Thomass❁ PY S ❁ Pataugas ❁ DE ❁ E Talbot U Mulberry

RÉ

ED U

ILL ET

NTEUIL

Runhof

D’ AL

Miu Miu

RUE D’ARGE

14 rue d’Alger (corner rue Saint-Honoré) - Paris 1st Tel: 01 55 04 85 50 www.talbotrunhof.com

O -H NT

I SA

L IG ❁E.Goyard ST A C R ❁Gucci UE DE Church’s❁ E DU U R M Paule Ka❁ ON TTH AB OR ❁

MARCHÉ ST-HONORÉ

TRO

Mikimoto Dior

Gallery

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

❁ ❁ ❁ Rolex ❁ ❁ ❁Van Cleef & Arpels ❁ ❁ DsQuared ❁ ❁Blancpain ❁❁ MisterChrono Jaeger❁ ❁ LeCoultre PLACE ❁Mauboussin Kusmi Tumi ❁ VENDÔME Kusmi ❁Chanel Chopard RU Tea Tea Michel ❁ ❁Chaumet E ❁ ❁ Perry ❁Buccellati ❁Hublot ❁Patek Philippe PLACE ❁Opera❁ ❁ Frey DU ❁

TALBOT RUNHOF

SDT I

PU CA

RRU UE E LO SUA ISIN -LT E-

Baccarat Christofle IWC ❁ ❁ Diesel Cartier Repetto ❁ Mellerio ❁ Montblanc X❁Dinh van I ❁ Panerai ❁ PA❁Korloff Wine ❁ Van Cleef ❁ LA❁Folli Follie by One & Arpels ❁ ❁ E ❁Breitling ❁ De Fursac Louis Vuitton ❁ E D❁Jaquet Droz Hugo Boss Cartier U❁Tiffany & Co R❁ Dubail Daum ❁ ❁ ❁Vacheron Constantin ❁ Bvlgari ❁ Fréret Roy Loding ❁ ❁ ❁Charvet ❁Gas Bijoux ❁Boucheron

Jimmy Choo Hugo Boss Brooks Brothers Armani Dior Miki House Omega

Wille

The German luxury brand has been offering their fashionable clients an array of elegant dresses over the past 20 years. Their collections feature evening, cocktail and wedding dresses using high quality fabrics and originally designed styles with an exceptional attention to details. The dresses are beautifully presented in the house’s first Parisian boutique that is designed like an art gallery.

❁

AU N

❁

A. Lange & Söhne

With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.

SHOP STOP

❁ ❁ IKKS

DSQUARED2

247-251 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: 01 42 86 54 66 www.dsquared2.com

❁

A -GU RG

❁

Hackett Lacoste Omega

❁Mephisto

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] S A I N T- G E R M A I N

RER

MUSÉE D’ORSAY ED

FRANCIS KLEIN This family-run brand offers hand-made, out of sight glasses and accessories. All made in France, their collections cater to all looks, offering glamorous and original frames allowing you to wear a piece of Paris every day. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

❁

UIL

-PÈ

❁ Poltrona Frau ❁ Silvera

Hartwood ❁

NTS

Deyrolle ❁

SAI

The Kooples ❁ Bowen ❁

RUE DU BAC

Elsa ❁ Vanier

❁ Cassina

SHOP STOP

ILL

Ofée . ❁ Maje ❁

BEA U

L’U

Renaissance

RUE

BAC

RUE

30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com

ILL

RES

Debauve

BOULE

RUE PRINCESSE

RUE BONAPARTE

59 rue de Rennes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 45 48 65 50 18 rue Tronchet - Paris 8th Tel: 01 47 42 61 44 www.jbguanti.fr

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RUE DES CANETTES

RUE MÉZIÈRES

RUE MADAME

❁ Spa L’Occitane

JB GUANTI Indeed a fashion item, the glove gives a personal touch to every look and attitude. Gloves can accessorize a casual urban look, complete an evening dress or be worn for a hunting country look. It’s a must for elegance, comfort and protection.

E-

RU E

RUE D E

SHOP STOP

DR AG O

LA CH AISE

RUE DU BAC

Georges ❁ ❁ Louis ❁ Rech Vuitton ❁ Etro ❁ ❁ Ralph ❁ Hobbs Lauren Tag Heuer ❁ Burberry SAINT-GERMAIN ❁ Paul Smith Rodika Armani ❁ Barbara DES-PRÉS Paul & Joe Zanian ❁ ❁Bui ❁ ❁ Stefanel❁ ❁ Sergio Rossi ❁ Cartier ❁ Ventilo L.K. ❁ Céline ❁ Swarovski Bennett ❁ Lancel Ferragamo ❁ Rolex❁ Carven ❁ ❁ Texier Crockett & Jones ❁ ❁ Montblanc Hackett ❁ Sonia Alexis Mabille ❁ Kenzo❁ ❁ J.M. Weston Rykiel ❁ L’Ibis Rouge ❁ Saint Laurent ❁ UR Tod’s Marina U FO Sportmax ❁ Eskandar ED ❁ U Maje R ❁ ❁ Dot-Drops ❁ Rinaldi Alain Mikli ❁ Prada Tru ❁ ❁ ❁ Trussardi Kipling M.A.C.❁ Durance ❁ ❁ Repetto ❁ ❁ Omega Pataugas ❁ Wolford ES American ÈVR Berluti ❁ S ❁ E D Vintage ❁ NE Longchamp ❁ JB Guanti ❁ E RUE DE BABYLO RU Hour ❁ ❁ ❁ Agnès b LPICE ❁Hermès Passion Robert ST-SU ❁ ❁ SÈVRES-BABYLONE Clergerie ❁ LeTéo&Blet Zadig ✴Le Lutetia Le Bon S Catherine E & Voltaire Marché R ❁ Memmi V Saint È S Laurent E

Louboutin

RASPA

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 www.mydotdrops.com

Ke nz o❁ Pa ul Sm i l’A th ❁ Pa rtisa rfu n me ur ❁

VARD

DOT-DROPS® DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

RUE BO

NAPAR

& Gallais ❁ BO ❁ John Lobb Bang UL Francis Klein ❁ ❁ & Olufsen Edward ❁ EV Green AR Zadig & Voltaire Armani❁ D ❁ Fabrice ❁ Karl Lagerfeld Casa SA ❁ Paule Ka INT Cinna ❁ -GE ❁ Mauboussin RM ❁ Welton A I N Façonnable ❁ ❁ Christian

RENNES

E RU

G AU

IRA

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11/02/2014 15:32

W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

Bring Paris Home Homeware brand Maisons du Monde always showcases objects for the home for different tastes and different homes. We particularly like their rustic and homey items bearing French labels. This season why not dress your bathroom back home with towels embroidered with bain or the next time you host a cocktail party why not serve your guests olives and sun-dried tomatoes in clearly labelled platters. A great souvenir to take back home with you or to gift a friend who loves being Frenchy. 32 rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine (12th), 01 53 33 83 07

COLOURFUL DOCS Dr. Martens are still very much on the fashion scene this season, toughening up fashionistas everywhere. Go for a pop of colour to brighten up your rock chic look with a pair of Docs in cherry red or daring mauve. 12 rue Pierre Lescot (1st), 01 40 26 93 00

SUMMER

LOVIN’

Summer has arrived a little bit early in stores with flamingos and palm trees taking centre stage. Ladies, at Princess Tam Tam you will find bikinis, playful short jumpsuits and bodysuits featuring flamingos and palm trees, with the fun pieces being a great bright addition to your beach wardrobe. Meanwhile, gentlemen are also getting the California treatment at Celio with fun prints on t-shirts and caps.

Princess Tam Tam 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 45 48 27 49 Celio 4 rue Halévy (9th), 01 47 42 39 14 28 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2014

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ph.alessandrobencini.com

BIJOUX

15 Galerie VĂŠro-Dodat 75001 Paris (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel. +33 01 40 39 01 51 - Fax: +33 01 40 39 01 19

www.angelacaputi.com

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ADVERTORIAL

TAILORED LUXURY BY

EMANUEL BERG

The world of the luxury shirt has found its home at 140 Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ Working with William Figaret, the son of Alain Figaret, the founder of the French luxury shirt-maker, the house of Emanuel Berg aims to offer its clients the best expertise in shirt tailoring. In the spacious and elegantly designed new boutique both ladies and gentlemen will find a plethora of shirts to choose from, whether off-the-rack or bespoke, the perfect shirt awaits here. Clients can choose from a selection of 1000 different fabrics, 60 different collar styles and 35 different cuffs to create their bespoke shirt. Tailored from mostly Italian fabrics including Albini and Thomas Mason, the shirts are put together in Poland and are delivered within a fortnight. The family-run fashion house also offers elegant accessories complementing the

tailored shirts, including chic cufflinks, socks and beautiful headscarves for the ladies. Monograms in different fonts and colours can also be subtly embroidered into the shirts, adding an even more personalised touch to the shirts. With a large foreign clientele, Emanuel Berg understand the importance of impeccable service and with that in mind delivery of bespoke shirts can be organised anywhere in the world, bringing luxury service to your doorstep.

140 rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ (8th), 01 53 75 48 01 www.emanuelberg.com 20% off ready-to-wear and tailor-made shirts for Where readers

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

Vintage & design chanel - dior - lacroix YSl - lanvin

l’ibiS rouge This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery. You will also find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers.

UNIQUELY UNIQLO

French fashion icon Inès de la Fressange has created a collection for high street brand Uniqlo that embodies her effortless chic style. The collection reflects Inès’s personal style and her preference for comfortable and versatile basics. The line features four capsule collections including the Petite Parisienne, which showcases office wear with rounded collars and floral prints, while the Souffle de Parisienne is more of a loungewear collection with items perfect for chilling out at home or zoning out with yoga. The INES DE LA FRESSANGE PARIS – UNIQLO collection is available at Uniqlo. 17 rue Scribe (9th), 01 58 18 30 55

35 Blvd Raspail - Paris 7th M° Sevres babylone Tel: 01 45 48 98 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 31

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

ACCESSORIES

MORE I ACCESSORIES BOTTEGA VENETA Casual and formal shoes and bags of supple hand-braided leather, as well as small leather goods and a chic ready-towear collection. 14 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.59.70. M° Concorde COACH The elegant and practical luxury handbags and accessories fashioned by this leading American house have arrived in Paris. Founded in 1941, the firm selects only the finest of leathers from tumbled calfskin to butter-soft fine grain cowhide. Available at Printemps

PART Y BAGS Nicolas Theil’s Fishbag is our accessory of the month. The clutch comes in a simple black version but for the more daring fashionistas the colourful “reflective” version is the one to add to your handbag collection. The graphic angles of the bag add a touch of rock to the designer’s love of structured design. Available at Anne’s Fashion Store, 56 ave Paul Doumer (16th)

SEXY LOOKS With spring just around the corner you need to start thinking about hiding your peepers behind statement-making specs. Avoid the glare and squinting with Viktor&Rolf’s latest sunglasses collection that includes this very chic and sexy tortoiseshell pair. 370 rue Saint-Honoré (1st)

Clutch bag by Coach LANCEL A new flagship store for this venerable leather goods company, known for classic handbags, small leather goods and a highquality line of luggage. 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V LONGCHAMP Good-looking handbags and luggage in leather and nylon. Also carries a line of well-designed accessories. 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde SWAROVSKI Enter into the magical world of the specialist in cut crystal in every hue crafted into dreamy, extravagant jewellery and evening bags. Today the house is the world leader for precision cutting of crystals and precious stones. The house has historically collaborated with leading designers like Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld and today works with both established and emerging artists. 146 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.13.80. M° George V TEXIER This family firm fashions fine leather goods for men and women with every item made in France. For over 60 years, tradition, style and fine details have been the hallmarks of the house whose collections include both trendy and classic bags and leather accessories. www.texier.com. 127 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.42.97.59.34. M° Mabillon/St-Germain-des-Prés

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[SHOPPING]

SHOPPING TIME ©la nina

ADVERTORIAL

TIKIBOU TOY STORES

RENAISSANCE

The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes and more. There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike. Tuesday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm

This boutique carries vintage couture clothing, accessories and jewellery, specialising in clothing from the 1930’s onwards. Designer labels carried by the store include vintage Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Balenciaga and Pucci.

20 ave de Trudaine, Paris 9th 33 blvd Edgar Quinet, Paris 14th 20 ave Félix Faure, Paris 15th www.tikibou.fr

14 rue de Beaune, Paris 7th M° Rue du Bac Tel. 06 85 43 03 52 www.renaissancevintageparis.com

NO V EMBER 2 0 13

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE OC T OBER 2 0 13 PA R IS [ O C TO B E R I N PA R I S ]

M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

PARIS CELEBRATES

A NEW SEASON

PICTURE

PERFECT Paris Celebrates Photography

9 W H E R E PA R I S I O C T O B E R 2 0 1 3

FASHION

CULTURE

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ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS

MAPS 15/10/2013 11:35

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W H E R E PA R I S

DAZZLING I JEWELLERY BOUCHERON Boucheron has embodied excellence in jewellery, high jewellery and watch making for more than 150 years. Each collection draws from the history and the values of the Maison, celebrating a modern prowess that is constantly reinvented. Each watch and jewellery creation sublimates their exceptional stones with the precious material of which they are sculpted. Each creation captures light and crystallises an emotion. 26 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra

WATCHES INTO ETERNITY Innovation and creation remain the hallmarks of the house of Ulysse Nardin, one of the last independent Swiss manufactures, who recently opened its first Parisian boutique in an elegantly discreet street. Founded in Le Locle by Ulysse Nardin in 1846, the house has brought out an ultimate icon with its new Perpetual Manufacture. It brings a taste of eternity with its manufacture movement UN-32 that allows the date to be adjusted both forward and backward, making it an ideal arrangement for a perpetual globetrotter. The timepiece is powered by a movement that possesses the most advanced perpetual calendar in the history of watch making, taking into account not only the months with 30 and 31 days, but also the 28 days of February and the return of February 29th every four years and so has a mechanical memory of 1,461 days. The first time the Perpetual Manufacture will require a manual adjustment will be in 2100, which would normally be a leap year but is in fact one of the exceptions in the Gregorian calendar. This handsome watch is a limited edition piece with only 250 watches in red gold and 250 in platinum being made. - P.V. 60 rue François 1er (8th), 01 53 75 03 79

CARTIER Famous for precious gems and tripleband gold rings. Collections include the romantically exquisite Love collection. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.18.23.00. Mº Opéra CHAUMET Famous for fine jewellery since 1780, and once the favourite of Napoleon. 12 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.44.77.26.26. Mº Tuileries DE BEERS Diamonds have mesmerised famous figures in history since the dawn of time. No one knows diamonds like South African specialist De Beers. Cut for beauty and crafted by artisans, De Beers offers an incredible choice of first-rate diamonds coveted by the greatest jewellery connoisseurs. De Beers at Printemps, Printemps du Luxe, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.49.43. Mº Havre Caumartin DE GRISOGONO In an entrancing Baroque atmosphere, discover the superbly set myriad stones, fine craftsmanship and black diamond jewellery that are the hallmarks of this luxury jeweller and watchmaker. The establishment releases a boutique collection and unique pieces each year and has recently launched a line of prestigious leather goods. www.degrisogono.com. 358 bis rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. Mº Tuileries DIOR JOAILLERIE Dior’s haute joaillerie line isdesigned by Victoire de Castellane, who combines colourful stones and precious metals in surprising and playful ways. 8 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.30.84. Mº Madeleine

FREYWILLE Fine enamel, gold and colourful, bold designs are the hallmarks of this Austrian house featuring fine jewellery, watches and writing instruments. The designs of the distinctive pieces are inspired by famous artists and historical art motifs. 9 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.12.34. Mº Tuileries; 167 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.47.47. Mº Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre MONTBLANC The timeless, elegant brand now has a superb flagship boutique in the heart of the luxury jewellery district. Unique pieces of prestige, limited editions, rare and precious jewellery and watches and the celebrated accessories can all be found here in this refined store that stretches out over two floors. 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.48.52. Mº Opéra PIAGET You find beautiful timepieces and superb jewellery here from the luxury Swiss brand that has been fashioning watches since 1874. The innovative jewellery collections include the colourful, beautifully sculpted cocktailinspired rings featuring, for example, blue topaz or pink tourmaline. 16 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries TIFFANY & CO. The renowned jeweller has a three-story boutique with a tempting collection of classically simple jewellery and gift items. 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. Mº Madeleine VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Famous for elegant, unique jewellery. The Alhambra collection, celebrating the company’s centenary, combines the sparkle of gold beads with the rich lustre of white and grey mother-of-pearl and onyx. 22 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.64.47. Mº Opéra WEMPE A high-end German jeweller in business since 1878. The boutique, newly renovated and enlarged, is known for stylish watches and chronometers, but also carries a wide range of fine jewellery. 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

Jennifer Lawrence wearing Dior’s Gourmande Pastel earrings

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[shopping]

Vintage

Bouquinistes photo © Paris Tourist Office - Fabian Charaffi

Shopping

PARIS FLEA MARKET Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s (some claim the world’s) largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. www. parispuces.com 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt) GABRIELLE GEPPERT This boutique carries the latest fashion trends as well as fine vintage pieces. The shop is filled with accessories, jewellery and

designer clothes that are all selected with great care. www. gabriellegeppert.com Jardins du Palais Royal, 31 & 34 Galerie Montpensier (1st), 01.42.61.53.52. Mº Pyramides HABITAT 1964 L’ESPACE VINTAGE Behind colourfully graffitied gates in the Puces de SaintOuen, you will find vintage pieces from Habitat’s past collection, adding a bit of pop to other previously loved pieces found around the market. 77 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen 93400 LES BOUQUINISTES Aligning the banks of the River Seine are the bouquinistes, second-hand bookstalls where you can find previously loved books as well as rare magazine copies.

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W h e r e pa r i s

BHV/Marais’s beauty department

80 labels – several exclusive to

Lafayette Maison-(Across the

Printemps, including the cult

street) a home décor shop with

London line Agent Provocateur.

sophisticated furnishings.

On the 6th and 7th floors of the

Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm,

Printemps Beauty/Home store are

BHV/MARAIS

Louvre. A unique shopping venue,

Thurs until 9 pm.

fashions for children.

A department store known for

it brings together a collection of

40 blvd Haussmann (9th),

Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm,

its great homeware selection

boutiques that are opened every

01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée

Thurs until 10pm.

and appliances as well as a good

day of the year.

d’Antin-La Fayette

64 blvd Haussmann (9th)

selection of top brand names for

10am – 8pm, even on Sundays.

women and children. Mon, Tues,

99 rue de Rivoli (1st),

PRINTEMPS haussmann

Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed

01.43.16.47.10. M° Palais Royal –

A department store housed in three

9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm.

Musée du Louvre

buildings, with an 1865 facade

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

and 1923 cupola that are listed as

Discover the new Printemps

BHV Homme – a shop exclusively

01.42.82.50.00 M° Havre-Caumartin

dedicated to men (36 rue de

LE FORUM DES HALLES

historic monuments. Printemps’

celebrating luxury and French

la Verrerie).

This shopping centre in the

exquisite world of Luxury and

know-how in the heart of the

14 rue du Temple (4th),

heart of Paris has a full range of

Accessories, spread out over 3

Louvre Museum, showcasing the

01.42.74.90.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

shopping spots for just about

floors, plays host to a splendid

most prestigious accessories,

anything, clothing, books, gifts,

collection of luxury houses and

beauty products, watches and

LE BON MARCHE

home décor and beauty products.

the most sought-after labels.

jewellery brands.

The oldest department store in

There are places to stop for a coffee

Printemps de l’Homme, the very

Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm.

Paris and the only one on the Rive

or a snack, two restaurants and two

first to dedicate an entire shop to

Carrousel du Louvre

Gauche. Extremely chic, with a

movie theatres.

men, houses six floors of menswear

99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st

great selection of ready-to-wear,

Mon – Sat 10am – 8pm.

and a men’s salon. International

01.76.77.41.00 M° Palais-Royal –

household goods, cosmetics and

101 rue Berger (1st),

Designers, an entire floor dedicated

Musée du Louvre

lingerie, all under a lovely glass roof.

01.44.76.96.56. M° Les Halles

to trendy new designers, is home to prestigious fashion designers

LA VALLEE VILLAGE

dedicated to men.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

with the space created by fashion

A village-like shopping outlet on

Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm,

This elegant department store

visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou.

the city outskirts offering discounts

Thurs & Fri until 9pm.

carries top brands including

Printemps de la Beauté features

of up to 60% on a hundred luxury

24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

Chanel, Chloé and Gaultier. There’s

two floors of products and

labels including Armani, Burberry,

01.44.39.80.00.

a wonderful lingerie department,

beauty supplies as well as a spa

Tumi and Ralph Lauren.

M° Sèvres-Babylone

a new children’s concept store that

and beauty salon. La Scent Room

Mon – Sun 10am – 7pm.

takes up an entire floor, restaurants,

is a unique concept that offers

Shopping Express Shuttle bus

LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

wine bars and a tea room and the

only exclusive luxury brands that

departs from the centre of

Art, beauty, technology, leather

cosmetics and perfume section

you won’t find anywhere else.

Paris twice a day at 9:30am and

goods and more are found under

offers 260 different brands.

Printemps de la Mode is one floor

12:30pm. 3 cours de la Garonne,

the famous inverted pyramid at

Lafayette Homme – A separate

entirely dedicated to shoes while

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val

the Louvre in the Carrousel du

building housing men’s fashion

Printemps de la Lingerie carries

d’Europe (about 35min).

And the entire basement floor is

BHV/marais © PaUL BLIND

Department Stores & Shopping Centres

and accessories.

36 W H E R E Pa r i s I m a r c h 2014

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

BEAUTY BUZZ

A COLOUR BAR Hairdresser Christophe Nicolas Biot has recently opened Le Bar des Coloristes. This hair salon is unlike any other offering a novel way to colour your hair. Upon presenting yourself at the “bar” to choose your new colour, your hair is diagnosed by a consultant who will advise you on your needs. The à la carte colour menu offers different services ranging from a take-away option to a more comprehensive treatment. You can choose the 15-minute/25€ hair diagnosis and after being advised on the products you can take them away to colour your own hair at home, or opt for the 60-minute/60€ treatment and have your hair coloured upstairs in the chic salon overlooking the quaint Village Royal. Open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7.30pm 25 rue Royale (8th), 01 43 12 32 00

Organic BEAUTY Long lashes are a brushstroke away with Physicians Formula’s Organic Wear mascara. The first mascara to have 100% natural origin lash extension fibres, its oversized brush gives your lashes volume and length, letting you get the look of false lashes without the hassle of applying them. Exclusively at Parashop stores including 165 rue de Rennes (6th), 01 45 49 11 99

A FACELIFT MASK Lift and repair your skin with Esthederm’s Instant Repulp Mask. In 15 minutes you can give yourself a facelift with this miracle mask that leaves your skin looking younger. Smoothing the skin’s micro-relief and plumping the epidermic cells, the mask hydrates the skin and restores its suppleness, leaving it looking smoother and un-wrinkled. Available at Absolu Beauté Boutique Spa, 41 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 65 85 92 ONE-STOP SHOP BEAUTY HAVENS SEPHORA Perfumes, cosmetics, beauty products, you might wind up spending the day here in this fabulous store filled not only with goods but plenty of services, too. You can have your nails, eyebrows and hair done, and then try out samples galore. 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

MARIONNAUD PARIS Personal service, tips and advice and a fine selection of perfumes and cosmetics for men, women and children are the hallmarks of this boutique devoted to beauty. Gift sets, travel articles, make-up and a fine assortment of accessories are also among the offerings. 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 39

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[address book]

shopping

Jean paul Gaultier - 44 ave George V (8th), 01.44.43.00.44. Mº George V karl laGerFeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. Mº Rue du Bac kapra hiska - 43 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.76.06.47. Mº Chemin Vert

l u x u r y s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

lady r Forrest - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.65.25.46. Mº Concorde lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. Mº Concorde

Accessories Couleurs & CaChemire - 11 rue de Béarn (3rd), 09.51.59.43.21. Mº Chemin Vert/St-Paul duret paris - 14 ave George V (8th), 01.47.20.53.56. Mº George V

les dandys - 23 rue Pasquier (8th), 01.40.07.05.52. Mº Saint-Augustin

children’s clothing & toys Boites a musiQue anna Joliet - 9 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.55.13. Mº Pyramides Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6 ), 01.40.51.98.20. Mº Mabillon th

JB Guanti - 59 rue de Rennes (6 ), 01.45.48.65.50. Mº Saint Sulpice/Mabillon th

JaCadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. Mº Madeleine Joué CluB - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. Mº Tuileries

montBlanC - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Mº George V

miki house - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries

swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Mº Madeleine

tikiBou toy store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet

s.t. dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.45.61.08.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

ten Clothes - 2-4 rue du Sabot (6 ), 01.42.22.16.60. M° St Sulpice

BeAuty spA & products l’artisan parFumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. Mº Pont Neuf Ban thai spa - 20 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.43.54.01.01. Mº Odéon espaCe weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Mº George V lanCÔme - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. Mº Madeleine les Comptoirs de duranCe - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. Mº Madeleine l’oCCitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Mº Pont Marie m.a.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V

marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Mº Madeleine marina rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. Mº Madeleine

misterChrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. Mº Opéra

levi’s store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. Mº Georges V

clothing: Men & WoMen anne Fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8th), 01.40.73.78.01. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Banana repuBliC - 22 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGmaXaZria -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. Mº Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Mº George V Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Mº Madeleine Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. Mº Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. Mº Concorde Corneliani - 23 rue du Fbg St.Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.30. Mº Concorde de FursaC - 146 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.43.25.40.66. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

talBot runhoF - 14 rue d’Alger (1st), 01.55.04.85.50. Mº Tuileries Zilli - 48 rue François 1er (8th), 01.53.23.90.96. Mº George V

eye WeAr alain mikli - 28 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.42.65.22.07. Mº Madeleine FranCis klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GrandoptiCal - 138 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V

FABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Mº Concorde

Food & Wine deBauve & Gallais - 30 rue des SaintsPères (7th), 01.45.48.54.67. Mº St-Germaindes-Prés FauChon - 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Mº Madeleine hediard - 21 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.88.88. Mº Madeleine kusmi tea - 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.08.08. Mº George V ladurée - 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. Mº George V mariaGe FrÈres - 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01.42.72.28.11. Mº Hôtel de Ville

make up For ever - 5 rue des FrancsBourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.23.19. M° St-Paul

dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Caviar petrossian - 8 blvd de la TourMaubourg (7th), 01.44.11.32.32. Mº La TourMaubourg

marionnaud paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V

dsQuared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. Mº Concorde

pierre hermé - 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.43.54.47.77. Mº St-Sulpice

edGard vermont - 120 rue Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.42.25.34.35. Mº Miromenil

wine By one - 9 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.60.85.76. Mº Opéra

emanuel BerG - 140 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

hoMe decor

salon Chistophe roBin - Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.02.83. M° Tuileries salon John nollet - Hotel Park Hyatt, 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.55.80.71.50. M° Opéra

hervé leGer - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. Mº Madeleine

ateliers d’art de FranCe BoutiQue (talents) - 26 ave Niel (17th), 01.44.40.22.80. Mº Pereire/Ternes

sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

iBlues - 16 rue de Passy (16th), 01.42.88.68.67. Mº Passy

BaCCarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. Mº Boissière

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For more shopping destinations , go to wheretraveler.com/paris

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. Mº Madeleine

lanCel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. Mº George V

ChristoFle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Mº Concorde

lonGChamp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. Mº Concorde

laliQue - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Mº Madeleine

louis vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. Mº George V

la tuile à loup - 35 rue Daubenton (5th), 01.47.07.28.90. Mº Censier-Daubenton

pinel & pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. Mº Madeleine

silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. Mº Kléber

prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

JeWellery & WAtches

teXier- 127 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.42.97.59.34. Mº Mabillon/ St-Germain-des-Prés

a. lanGe & söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. Mº Opéra

tumi - 245 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. Mº Concorde

anGela Caputi GiuGGiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Mº Louvre-Rivoli

Multi-BrAnd Boutiques

ariJe - 3 rue de Castiglione (1 ), 01.42.60.37.77. Mº Tuileries

By marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. Mº George V

BouCheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra

Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. Mº Havre-Caumartin

BuCherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. Mº Opéra

Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. Mº Tuileries

BvlGari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. Mº Pyramides

l’eClaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. Mº George V

Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. Mº Opéra

merCi - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3th), 01.42.77.00.33. Mº Saint Sébastien-Froissard

Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. Mº Opéra

montaiGne market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

F.p. Journe - 63 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00. Mº Champs-Elysées Clemenceau

shoes

GuCCi watChes - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, Mº Havre-Caumartin omeGa - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. Mº Concorde patek philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Mº Tuileries piaGet - 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries tissot BoutiQue - 76 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Mº George V van CleeF & arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. Mº Opéra

ChristoFle 9 rue Royale (8th) Mº Concorde ❘ www.christofle.com

a.testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. Mº Concorde Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian louBoutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Mº Madeleine CroCkett & Jones – 14 rue ChauveauLagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Mº Madeleine derville – Passage des 2 Pavillons (1st), 01.42.96.82.27. Mº Pyramides Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt J.m. weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. Mº George V

vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. Mº Miromesnil

mephisto shop - 12 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.40.15.00.50. Mº Pyramides

wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. Mº Opéra

luggage and bags

tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Mº Concorde

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. Mº Concorde/Madeleine

VintAge

CoaCh (available at Printemps): 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. Mº Havre-Caumartin

didier ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. Mº Pyramides

dot-drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. Mº Mabillon

van CleeF & arpels 22 place Vendôme (1st) Mº Opéra ❘ www.vancleefarpels.com

Bernardaud 11 rue Royale (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.bernardaud.com

dress-Code - 62 ave Théophile Gautier (16th), 01.45.25.00.00. Mº Eglise d’Auteuil

hedGren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. Mº Madeleine

dépÔt vente du 17Ème - 109 Rue de Courcelles, 75017, 09.81.82.00.66. Mº SaintPaul

hermÈs - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Mº Concorde

l’iBis rouGe - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

kiplinG – 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.77.67. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

renaissanCe - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. Mº rue du Bac

s.t. dupont 58 ave Montaigne(8th) Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt ❘ www.st-dupont.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

GLAMOUR AND GLOSS The publishing house Condé Nast has opened up its archives in New York, Paris, Milan and London to bring together 150 glossy prints, the majority of them original, taken by leading fashion photographers from 1918 to today. The exhibition they form is a page-turning journey into a century of fashion and fashion photography. The talent of great photographers that was revealed on the pages of Vogue, Glamour and W is all here. There are the narrative shots of Cecil Beaton, the Surrealist views of Man Ray and the fabulous portraits of models by Irving Penn and Peter Lindbergh, and in two reading rooms some 50 magazines are presented under glass for the visitor to view. The show is being put on at the Palais Galliera, the fashion museum of Paris, and the photographs are being shown in conjunction with 15 couture outfits from the museum’s collections. - Patricia Valicenti Through to May 25 10 ave Pierre Ier de Serbie (16th), 01 56 52 86 00

HENRY CLARKE, FRENCH VOGUE, MAY 1951 PHOTO © HENRY CLARKE/GALLIERA

ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

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[ A r t s & at t r a c t i o n s ]

Untitled, 2013 by Daphné Chevallereau Photo courtesy Galerie Polad-Hardouin; Vincent van Gogh La Nuit étoilée, Arles, 1888 Photo © RMN (Musée d’Orsay)/Hervé Lewandowski

T h e V erit y on Van G og h This exhibition, presented by the Musée d’Orsay, brings together some 40 paintings, drawings and letters by Van Gogh exploring the analysis of the artist’s works by the French author and playwright Antonin Artaud who in 1947 wrote the work, Van Gogh, the Man Suicided by Society. The show also presents drawings by Artaud who spent 9 years in an asylum, which led to the gallery owner Pierre Loeb’s suggestion that he write about Van Gogh, thinking that a writer who had been interned was in a good position to understand the work of an artist regarded as being insane. The writer based his analysis on paintings by Van Gogh during the retrospective held in 1947. – P.V. From Mar 11 through to July 6 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14

A R T I S T U P O N EMERGENCE The contemporary gallery Polad-Hardouin is embracing the drawing season in Paris with an exhibition showcasing the works on paper of three emerging artists. Caroline Demangel’s drawings bring a welcome, colourful creativity to strong figurative outlines of poetic, ephemeral characters perfectly suited to the medium. For Ayako David-Kawauchi, “the drawing is in my view, the individual’s most accomplished means of expression”, which clearly emerges in her forthright, bold works. While Daphné Chevallereau seems to recount a tale, a journey. “What I like about drawing is that it forces you to be honest, all attempts to deviate from the line become visible on paper”, she says, with her drawings inhabited by mysterious, hybrid beings evolving between the earth and the sky. – P.V. From Mar 13 to Apr 19 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01 42 71 05 29 w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 43

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Galerie Taménaga

W h e r e pa r i s [ A r t s & at t r a c t i o n s ]

IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibit: Tom CHRISTOPHER Date: March 20 - April 10

GALLERIES GALERIE BERNHEIM-JEUNE The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and others. Now run by descendants of the founder, the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm. www.bernheim-jeune.com 83 rue du Faubourg St Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE DANIEL TEMPLON

Cause tattoos ward off evil spirits, that’s why 102 x 76 cm MODERN WORkS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Dufy, kisling, Picasso, Gris, klee, Chagall, Bonnard, Buffet, Soutine CONTEMPORARY WORkS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano

18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

A contemporary gallery featuring established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.danieltemplon.com 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10. M° Rambuteau

GALERIE JEROME DE NOIRMONT Specialising in contemporary artists with international acclaim. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.denoirmont.com 36-38 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.89.89.00. M° Miromesnil

The Galerie Daniel Templon

exhibition rooms, it proffers a journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miro are all found in this fine and sublime house of art. Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm, Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions) 2:30pm-6:30pm. www.malingue.net 26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

GALERIE NATHALIE OBADIA

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

Museum-quality 16th- and 17th-century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. www.dejonckheere.fr 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE LELONG

GALERIE POLAD-HARDOUIN

This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm www.galerie-lelong.com 13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. Works with strong pictorial choices are featured here. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Conferences animated by specialists are organised throughout the year. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. www.polad-hardouin.com 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29. M° Rambuteau

GALERIE MAEGHT

Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage costume jewelry worn by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel , Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Miriam, Haskell… A display of original Art Deco cocktail accessories complete the show. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

This contemporary gallery features fine, collectable works by both established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm www.galerie-obadia.com 3 rue du Cloître Saint-Merri (4th), 01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de VIlle

This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm. Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. www.maeght.com 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15. M° Rue du Bac

GALERIE MALINGUE This prestigious gallery has been welcoming discerning art collectors for over three decades. With three lofty

GALERIE SCHMIT Three generations of art experts present museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th century French masters. Covering periods from the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm. 396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36. M° Concorde

Photo © Galerie Daniel Templon, Paris et Bruxelles

Olwen Forest

GALERIE DE JONCKHEERE

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Marilyn 04 - Mixed media on canvas - 250 x 200 cm

Lita CabeLLut

www.operagallery.com PA R I S . M O N A C O . L O N D O N . G E N E V A . N E W Y O R K . B A L H A R B O U R . S I N G A P O R E . H O N G K O N G . S E O U L . D U B A I

356, rue Saint-HonorĂŠ 75001 Paris. T +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 paris@operagaller y.com Mon. - Sat. 10 am - 7 pm

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TRADE SHOWS FOIRE DE CHATOU From Mar 7-16 10am-7pm. This show draws some 800 merchants from all over France displaying antiques, regional traditions, crafts and gastronomy. This year Pop culture is in the spotlight with a special exhibition and sale. Expert advice is on hand as well as valet parking. www.foiredechatou.com. Ile des Impressionnistes, Chatou. RER A to Rueil-Malmaison, then free shuttle to the fair

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MARCHE DE LA CREATION EDGAR QUINET Since 1997, this Montparnasse art market has been a spacious open-air art gallery where buyers can meet up with the artists. Diverse works of art are on display ranging from paintings and ceramics to engravings and sculptures. The show finds its roots in the 1920s when the celebrated Montparnasse artists like Modigliani and Chagall exhibited their works outdoors. Sun, 10am-7pm, 120 artists, credit cards accepted. www.marchecreation.com. Blvd Edgar Quinet (14th). M° Edgar Quinet

31 TO

SALON DU DESSIN FROM MARCH 26TH TO 31ST

PAVILLON DES ARTS ET DU DESIGN Mar 27-30 from 11am to 8pm, until 10pm on the 27th. This is a unique art show bringing together the leading galleries and art dealers and attracting collectors from throughout the world to see a diversity of displays of masterpieces, rarely shown works and decorative objects. www.padparis.net. Jardin des Tuileries, across from 234 rue de Rivoli (1st). M° Tuileries

PALAIS BRONGNIART PLACE DE LA BOURSE - PARIS 75002

12.00 PM-8.30 PM LATE OPENING ON MARCH 27TH UNTIL 10.00 PM

INFORMATION : +33 (0)1 45 22 61 05

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CMJ

SALON BABY Mar 14- 16 from 10am to 6pm. A delightful show for babies, toddlers and parents-tobe where you can find a wide selection of games and toys, fashion and furnishings, stands devoted to health, nutrition, hygiene, photography, sustainable development and great vacations. www.salonbaby.com. Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles, (15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line T3, Porte de Versailles SALON DU LIVRE Mar 21-24 10am-8pm, until 7pm on the 23rd, pre credentialed professionals only on the 24th. The great literary rendezvous in Paris is held annually bringing together publishers, writers and readers from France and abroad. This year Argentine literature is being featured. www.salondulivreparis.com. Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line T3, Porte de Versailles SALON MONDIAL DU TOURISME Mar 20-24 10am-7pm. This show brings together tourism offices and tour operators from around the world. Visitors can explore the stands to choose their next travel destination. Discover new horizons and offbeat journeys. www.salonmondialdutourisme.com. Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte de Versailles (15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line T3, Porte de Versailles

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DELIGHTFUL T H E A R T O F D R AW I N G S G I V I N G

For over two decades, collectors, curators and art lovers have converged on Paris for the internationallyrenowned Salon du Dessin, the drawing show, a place to discover and purchase unknown masterpieces and works by the likes of de Staël, Renoir, Fragonard and Miro, among others. The show is regarded as the most important event in the world for viewing and acquiring old works, too. It is also the venue for the muchanticipated 2014 Contemporary Drawing Prize of the Daniel and Florence Guerlain Contemporary Art Foundation to be presented on Mar 27. Museums and foundations from Paris to Sèvres get into the drawing spirit, exhibiting some of their rarely shown works, for drawings are fragile and often conserved away from the public eye. - P.V. For a selection of venues visit www.salondudessin.com. Mar 26-Mar 31, noon-8:30pm, until 10pm on the 27th, 8pm on the 31st. Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse (2nd)

The wealth and diversity of drawings is being played out at the Pompidou Centre where some 300 drawings emanating from the Florence and Daniel Guerlain Donation are being showcased. The show is conceived around the 15 artists

nominated for the first five annual drawing prizes awarded by the Guerlain’s contemporary art foundation. Highlights include an exceptional ensemble of eight drawings by Nancy Spero and the intriguing works of Shirley Jaffe. The exhibition is held in a labyrinth-like setting enabling the visitor to enjoy a close look at the works. Two hundred and one artists hailing from 38 countries are represented in the ensemble, which reveals how colourful and creative the medium of drawing, regarded as an artist’s first gesture, truly is. – P.V. Through to Mar 31 Place George Pompidou (4th), 01 44 78 12 33

Charles Dufresne’s Project for the décor of Acte II of the Opera Antar is presented by Galerie Chantal Kiener (top photo); Alexander Calder’s Composition, 1947 exhibited by Galerie de la Présidence; Frédérique Loutz Heirad, 2009 Photo © Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI André Morin/Dist .RMN-GP 24;

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[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

MUSEUMS

CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. Library, boutique, bookshop and café on the premises. The centre also has interactive spaces devoted to children and adolescents. Through Mar 3 Le Surréalisme et l’Objet, traces the Surrealist movement through sculptures and photographs. Through Mar 31 Donation Florence et Daniel Guerlain, brings together 300 prestigious drawings from the Guerlain’s donation of 1200 works to the museum. Through Jun 9 Henri CartierBresson, retrospective devoted to the great photographer. Wed-Mon 11am-9pm, (last tickets 8pm). Library opened until 10pm. Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau

GALERIES NATIONALES DU GRAND PALAIS

Musée du Louvre

MUSEE DU LOUVRE PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - MARC BERTRAND - ARCHITECTE: IEOH MING PEÏ

LOUTZ HEIRAD, 2009 PHOTO © CENTRE POMPIDOU, MNAM-CCI ANDRÉ MORIN/DIST .RMN-GP 24;

National art galleries in the recently renovated, glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900

homeware, ceramics and porcelain, paintings

on display. Through Apr 28 New Frontier III,

World’s Fair. From Mar 5 through Jul Bill

and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle

showcases five Anglo-American art works of the

Viola, brings together the major works of the

Ages to 21st-century design, including a dozen

late 18th century.

pioneering American video artist. From Mar

sumptuously furnished period rooms. Through

Open Wed-Mon 9 am-6 pm (to 9:45 pm Wed

19 through Jul 13 Moi, Auguste, Empereur de

May 11 Parade, showcases toys linked to the

& Fri, reduced price after 6 pm). Guided tours

Rome, this show recounts Rome during the time

worlds of the circus and theatre. Through Jun

in English daily except Sun & Tue.

of Augustus, the first emperor of Rome. From

8 Les secrets de la laque française, delves into

Under 18 free; under 26 free Fri after 6 pm.

Mar 26 through Jul 14 Robert Mapplethorpe,

the 18th century art of French lacquer finishing.

First Sun of the month free for all.

this major retrospective brings together over

Through Jun 29 De la Chine aux Arts Décoratifs,

To avoid lines, buy advance tickets (see

200 works by the celebrated 20th century

reveals the rich and diverse collections of

website).

photographer.

the museum’s Chinese art objects that were

99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.50.50;

Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm.

collected by Western patrons of the arts in the

information English/Spanish 01.40.20.53.17.

3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th),

19th and early 20th centuries.

M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

01.44.13.17.17.

Tue-Fri 11 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-6 pm,

M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Thu until 9pm.

MUSEE MAILLOL

107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50.

A museum created by Dina Vierny, the former

M° Palais Royal

model and muse of sculptor Aristide Maillol,

MUSEE D’ORSAY

displaying his sculptures and drawings along

A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th- and 20th-century art,

MUSEE DU LOUVRE

with works by Kandinsky, Matisse and others.

including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh

One of the world’s most important art

From Mar 19 through Jul 20 Le trésor de Naples,

and Gauguin. Through May 11 Gustave Doré,

collections, including the Mona Lisa. The Denon

for the first time one of the finest collections

exhibition devoted to the 19th century artist,

wing houses European painting and sculpture,

of jewellery in the world is being presented

engraver and illustrator. From Mar 11 through

large-format 19th-century French paintings,

outside of its home country, Italy.

Jul 6 Vincent Van Gogh/Antonin Artaud, Le

Greek and Roman antiquities, and Greek and

Daily 10:30am-7pm, Fri until 9:30pm.

suicidé de la société, this exhibition, bringing

Russian icons. Louis XIV’s magnificent Apollo

59-61 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.42.22.59.58.

together some 40 paintings, drawings and

Gallery provides a glittering setting for France’s

M° Rue du Bac

letters by Van Gogh explores the analysis of

crown jewels. The Pavillon des Sessions displays

the artist’s works by the French author and

Primitive art from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the

MUSEE NATIONAL DE LA MARINE

playwright Antonin Artaud.

Americas. The Richelieu wing features French

France’s fascinating maritime museum, with

Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm.

painting and sculpture, Oriental antiquities

superb scale models of ships dating as far

Thu to 9:45pm. Guided tours in English

and Islamic art. The Sully wing houses the

back as Louis XV. Through Jul 6 Le voyage de

Tue-Sat 11:30 am.

monumental remains of the medieval Louvre

l’Obélisque, this show recounts the fantastic

1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th),

and Egyptian antiquities. From Mar 14 through

19th century journey of the obelisk, that now

01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Jun 16 Le Trésor de l’Abbaye de Saint-Maurice

stands at the Place de la Concorde, from its

d’Agaune, this exceptional exhibition presents

home in Luxor to Paris.

MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS

the major pieces of the oldest monastery in the

Mon-Fri 11am-6pm/Sat & Sun 11am-7pm.

A semi-private museum with a fabulous

West: with gold from the Middle Ages, textiles

Palais de Chaillot, 17 pl du Trocadéro (16th),

collection of decorative arts—furniture,

from the East, relics and manuscripts are all

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W H E R E PA R I S

7 TOP

MONUMENTS

Monuments Not to be Missed

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle

and boasts a fabulous view of the ChampsElysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77.

The Notre Dame Cathedral

sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the

Europe’s fastest elevator will take you to the

hour from twilight to 2am. From Sept 2 through

top in 38 seconds to enjoy spectacular day

buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries

Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, Stairs

or night views of Paris from 196 metres high

and delightful cafés and boutiques line the

open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. From Jun 15 through

in the sky. Interactive exhibitions, a glass

sides of the square.

Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts). Last entries

enclosed terrace, a gourmet café and gift shop

Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower

45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-14.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. A champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

MONTPARNASSE TOWER TOP OF PARIS Enjoy an exceptional panoramic visit of Paris from the Montparnasse Tower.

are all part of the experience. Daily, winter 9:30am-10:30pm, summer 9:30am-11:30pm, last lift half an hour before closing. www.tourmontparnasse56.com Rue de l’Arrivée (15th), 01 45 38 52 56. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345,

One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with

a lovely green space surrounded by red brick

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse

for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5:45pm. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers

towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-

10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr-Jun and Sep: 10am-

a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-6pm, last tickets

5:45pm; Oct-Mar: 10am-4:45pm. 7.50€.

30 minutes before closing time, times may

6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th),

vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU

01.42.34.56.10.

citizens under 26.

M° Cité

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at

2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. www.crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the

The Arc de Triomphe

PLACE DES VOSGES

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass

windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t

M° Charles-de-Gaulle–Etoile

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ATTRACTIONS AQUARIUM DE PARIS (CINEAQUA) Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Species from Guyana to the Seine, the Mediterranean Sea to the North Sea can be found swimming within. Sharks, clownfish, seahorses and eels are among the residents here. Visitors can also enjoy films and workshops. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing, adults: 20.50€, children 13-17: 16€, 3-12: 13€. www.cineaqua.com. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna

DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS Open 365 days a year, Disneyland Park surrounds you with all your favourite characters. The fantastic Hollywood Tower will terrify even the least squeamish while Le Festival des Moments Magiques Disney is a host of interactive exhibitions and encounters with your favourite Disney characters, from Peter Pan to Rapunzel. Walt Disney Studios Park offers 4 cinema lots and attractions with a cinematic theme. Disney Dreams! is a magical show of light at nightfall at Sleeping Beauty’s castle. Daily 10am-7pm. Check website for opening hours on day of visit. One park: adults 62€, children 56€ (3-11yrs); combined ticket: adults 74€, children 66€. www.disneylandparis.com. RER A to Marne La Vallée/Chessy (40-65 min)

LE MANOIR DE PARIS

PALAIS-ROYAL

The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. An interactive exhibition space invites visitors to live the legends of Paris from the Vampire Theatre to the Phantom of the Opera. Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. Adults 25€, under 16 18.50€. Please consult the web site for additional opening times. www.lemanoirdeparis.fr. 18 rue de Paradis (10th). M° Château d’Eau

The Palais-Royal with its superb gardens offers a wonderful spot for strolling while the elegant and eclectic shops in the galleries that border the gardens are worth exploring. Some former famous residents of the apartments around the gardens include Colette and Jean Cocteau. The palace, which houses the Conseil d’Etat, is closed to the public. Palais-Royal (1st) M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre

disney photo © disney

[ A r t s & at t r a c t i o n s ]

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W H E R E PA R I S

DINING

BRASSERIE PRINTEMPS On the 6th floor of Printemps Haussmann, tucked away in the chic women’s department, sits the Brasserie Printemps. This Parisian brasserie is an ideal table for lunch or an afternoon snack while shopping in the famous department store. Under the legendary dome, enjoy the menu offerings, which include traditional brasserie fare such as the Salade Niçoise, beef tartare served with fries and a cheese platter, and for dessert there is the popular crème brûlée. – S.I. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 58 84 52 W H E R E PA R I S I M A R C H 2014

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[Dining]

DESSIRIER Since Parisians love seafood and demand the very best, the French capital is one of the best places in the world for fish and shellfish lovers, and Dessirier, chef Michel Rostang’s luxurious seafood brasserie, is a great address at which to discover the finest French catch of the day and an outstanding wine list. This soothing and intimate dining room is also a favourite of Paris power brokers and an excellent choice not only for a superb meal with excellent service, but a great address for business dining. Oyster lovers will definitely want to start off with some of these bivalves, since Dessirier offers an impressive selection from both Atlantic and Mediterranean waters, including Utah beach, Prat-ar-Coum and Gillardeaus, as well as other appealing starters including marinated scallops with wild mushroom pickles and fish and mussel soup. If you like a good grilled sole, this is the place, since it’s beautifully prepared here, but other possibilities, including a lobster and shellfish vol-auvent, turbot, sea bass and an excellent bouillabaisse are equally tempting. Conclude your feast with a caramel éclair, chocolate soufflé or a vanilla millefeuille. – Alexander Lobrano 9 place du Maréchal Juin (17th), 01 42 27 82 14

The Guidelines This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers.

Dessirier Salle Best © C. Bielsa

GENERAL information Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. Value Added Tax (VAT, written in French as TVA) is automatically included in the bill, as is the service charge. While tipping is not compulsory, it is appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. index to abbreviations B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner. AE: American Express, V: Visa, MC: Mastercard PRICES Set Meals: Prices are per person. A la carte: Price per person for three courses without wine. € – 30€ or less per person €€ – 31€-50€ per person €€€ – 51€-100€ per person €€€€ – 101€-150€ per person €€€€€ – 151€ and above per person

LA TABLE DU VIETNAM The French have the same nostalgic fascination with Vietnam, one of the three countries (Cambodia and Laos are the other two), which once comprised their colony of Indochine, that the British do with India. Vietnamese food plays a major part in this romance too, which is why Paris has some of the best Vietnamese restaurants anywhere in the world outside of Vietnam. One of the best places to discover the superb cooking of this country is the new La Table du Vietnam, a stylish restaurant with a fashionable clientele in the 7th arrondissement that is run by the charming My Nguyen, a native of the central Vietnamese city of Hué. Ms. Nguyen babies her well-heeled customers and is justifiably proud of both the quality and authenticity of the dishes she serves from her homeland. Among the dishes not to miss at this comfortable, well-run restaurant are the nems, deep-fried spring rolls filled with pork, vegetables and herbs, and banh cuôn, rice flour ravioli, a traditional dish of Hué, filled with a succulent stuffing of shrimp and onions. Main courses are excellent too, including lemon-grass seasoned grilled spare ribs, sautéed duck with tamarind sauce, and cha ca, or turmeric-marinated sea bream served on a hot iron plaque with garnishes of fresh herbs and crushed peanuts. Don’t miss the delicious pandanus leaf and longan fruit flavoured flan for dessert either. – A.L. 6 ave Bosquet (7th), 01 45 56 97 26 w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 53

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

D ESS A N C E In the trendy northern Marais, restaurateur Philippe Baranes has opened Paris’s first all-desserts restaurant, Dessance. This fashionable new place with a granite bar and a curbed oak trellis lining a wall overlooking the courtyard of the 17th century townhouse where it’s located isn’t just another tea salon serving a menu of cakes and tarts, but a place where you can actually make a meal of pastry chef Christophe Boucher’s fascinating modern desserts. Boucher formerly worked at two threestar restaurants in Paris, Ledoyen and Le Grand Véfour, and his approach to the sweet side of life is intriguingly different from anything you’ve probably ever run into before. Eschewing butter, cream and sugar, he creates many of his desserts with fresh and dried fruits, vegetables and fresh herbs, so that they land somewhere between sweet and savoury in terms of flavour. The best way to discover this very original place is to order the tasting menu, which recently began with a tangy compote of pears with a chervil root cream, Greek yoghurt sorbet, and chervil flavoured meringue wafers, and continued with a succession of beautiful and delicious dishes including a surprising soft bon-bon filled with beet juice, cranberry relish, bergamot ice and cocoa bean nibs under a cloud of white chocolate foam. Eventually, this feast concluded with two more traditional desserts, an “omelette Novergienne” flamed with whisky and a delicate chocolate covered pastry made with layers of chocolate and vanilla praline. – A.L. 74 rue des Archives (3rd), 01 42 77 23 62

Desserts you must try La Cantine du Faubourg The popular eatery’s 105feuille, a salted caramel take on the traditional French millefeuille. 105 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 56 22 22

Les Enfants Gâtés The bakery/pastry shop has created the Dingo Lingot. The gold barshaped délice is a dark chocolate mousse with a Carambar caramel heart and pieces of pecan nuts. 7 rue Cardinet (17th), 01 47 63 55 70

Popelini The coffee-flavoured cream-filled puff pastry from the bakery that only makes choux. 29 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 44 61 31 44

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Seafood, a Parisian culture.

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

art of dining special advertising section

EUGEnE

HARoLd

di vino

In quarters built by Baron GeorgesEugène Haussmann, connoisseurs will appreciate the glass roof by Eiffel tucked into the back of the restaurant. The 3-metre high roomy bench seats in crushed velvet let you settle in comfortably to savour a refined and exotic cuisine. Enjoy a world tour without leaving the French capital.

Anthracite taffeta curtains and Bohemian crystal chandeliers hanging from a bright red ceiling make for a very special, cosy and comfortable ambiance. An immense mercury mirror dating from the 15th century reflects into infinity the light and space. A few contemporary touches transform it into a spot where traditional cuisine enhanced with a modern accent is enjoyed.

A place of privilege, of discovery, of tasting and sharing, the restaurant Di Vino aspires to all of this and so offers a selection of the finest in Italian vintages in which wines unearthed from ever so many journeys through Italy come together. Let yourself be tempted by these wonderful wines that will take you on a sojourn into the vineyards of Italy.

166 bd Haussmann, 75008 Paris Metro: Saint Philippe du Roule / Miromesnil Tel: 01.42.89.00.13

48 rue de Prony, 75017 Paris Metro: Villiers Tel: 01.47.63.96.96

1 Place de Mexico, 75116 Paris Metro: Trocadéro Tel: 01.45.53.89.79

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W h e r e pa r i s

FINE DINING

L’Abeille Gourmet This two-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers a sophisticated menu of French gastronomic cuisine created by talented chef Philippe Labbé. In the elegant dining area enjoy dishes such as royal scampi steamed with lemon cream and flavoured with walnut oil and roasted coffee. Tues-Sat, D. €€€€€ (cards: all). 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna APICIUS Contemporary The two-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule LE CINQ Gourmet Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V EPICURE Gourmet The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Fréchon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil LE GRAND VEFOUR Modern Classic The opulent three-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s.

Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri L only. €€€€(Cards: all) 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal HELENE DARROZE Southwestern French Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. €€€. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone JULES VERNE Haute Cuisine This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim le MEURICE - ALAIN DUCASSE Modern Classic A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring classic fare using the finest French regional products. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. €€€€€. (cards: all) Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. M° Tuileries RELAIS LOUIS XIII Classic French In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St Michel

La Scène

LE RESTAURANT Neo-Baroque In the legendary hotel called L’Hotel, the neoBaroque one-star restaurant is where head chef Julien Montabut prepares seasonal and classically French cuisine with a distinctive light and modern touch. Dishes include pan fried scallops with girolle mushrooms for a starter or a main course of line sea bass roasted with spices. Daily B Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.01. Mº Odéon LA SCENE Gourmet This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. Among the appetisers are white Alba truffles or duck foie gras. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal. Mon-Sat B,L & D, Sun Brunch. €€€€ (cards: all). 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. M° George V LE SERGENT RECRUTEUR Gourmet This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. €€€ (AE, MC, V). 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Isle (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. Mº Pont Marie LA TOUR D’ARGENT Classic French A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€€€, lunch menu €65 (AE, DC, MC, V) 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

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[Dining]

DELICIOUSLY AFFORDABLE RESTAURANTS L’AS DU FALAFEL Mediterranean Looking for the best falafel in town? This is it. In the heart of the historic Marais neighbourhood, L’As du Falafel serves up fresh and plentiful pita pockets filled with delicious falafel. Sun-Thurs 12pm-12am/ Fri 12pm-3pm. € (CB, MC, V) 34 rue des Rosiers (4th), 01.48.87.63.60. M° Saint-Paul CHEZ PAPA Southwestern French The glorious savours of the southwest come alive at this authentic eatery. Potted duck, cassoulet, foie gras and hearty salads are served in a courteous style. Try the duck wings with peaches or poached eggs with blue cheese. Mon-Sat. L & D. Sun: dinner only. € (Visa, CB, AE, MC) 29 rue de l’Arcade (8th), 01.42.65.43.68. M° Madeleine

RATN

SPOK This is a great casual dining spot if you are looking for something quick but healthy and affordable. The urban chic restaurant serves up sandwiches, salads and soups. 21 rue Dussoubs (2nd), 09 83 27 65 98

INDIAN MOGHOL GASTRONOMY 4The Magic of India, open every day, 12pm - 2.45pm / 7.15pm-11.45pm 4Recommended by Michelin, Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin 4Business lunch, air conditioned

LAO LANE XANG 2 Cambodian-Vietnamese-Laotian Located in the 13th arrondissement in the heart of Paris’s Chinatown, this restaurant serves authentic Asian cuisine featuring traditional dishes from Laos, Vietnam and Thailand. Enjoy vegetables with fresh basil, chilli and lemongrass, or a generous serving of Phad Thai noodles, or choose between a green and a red curry. L & D. Closed Wed. € (MC, V). 102 ave d’Ivry (13th), 01.58.89.00.00. M° Tolbiac PARIS NEW YORK American Found in the bustling 10th arrondissement, this retro hipster restaurant serves up the best burgers in the city including their tasty Vintage Cheeseburger made with 18-month aged cheddar cheese. Daily 12-3pm/7.30-11.30pm . € (V) 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis (10th), 01.47.70.15.24. M° Strasbourg Saint-Denis

Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in Indian Moghol Gastronomy of the 17th century and immortalises the beautiful north Indian culinary traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries.

9 rue de la Tremoille, Paris 8th (Metro: George V) - Tel: 01 40 70 01 09

www.restaurantratn.com

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W h e r e pa r i s

Dining with a View

CAFE MARLY Contemporary In the Louvre, a trendy café-restaurant with an interior view over a sculpture gallery and an outdoor dining area overlooking the Louvre’s glass pyramid. Daily 8am-2am. €€ (Cards: all) 93 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.49.26.06.60. M° Palais Royal GEORGES World Cuisine Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2am. €€€ (Cards: all). Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. M° Rambuteau JULES VERNE Haute Cuisine This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all)

Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. M° Bir-Hakeim KONG Fusion A spectacular glass-roofed penthouse restaurant with a magnificent view of the city. Designed by Philippe Starck, it is inspired by manga comics. Serving delicious Asian-fusion dishes. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 1 rue du Pont-Neuf (1st), 01.40.39.09.00. M° Pont-Neuf LA TOUR D’ARGENT Classic French A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€€€, lunch menu €65 (AE, DC, MC, V) 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. M° Maubert-Mutualité LE CIEL DE PARIS Gourmet Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, opt for a glass

Maison Blanche

of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in their Champagne Bar. Daily L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. M° Montparnasse MAISON BLANCHE Contemporary Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. M° Alma Marceau MONSIEUR BLEU Contemporary This brasserie serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare and frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily 12pm-2am. €€ (V). 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

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[Dining]

BISTROS & CAFÉs Our top 5 tables for a traditional French café meal L’AMI LOUIS Bistro A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras, french fries and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and wellheeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. €€€€€ (V) 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd) 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Metiers BENOIT Bistro Taken over, spruced up and enlarged by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse, a classic 1912 bistro that’s a favourite of (very) affluent tourists for its traditional French cuisine that includes cassoulet, beef in Beaujolais, sole Grenobloise and an iced soufflé with Grand Marnier. Daily L&D. €€€€ (AE, V) 20 rue St-Martin (4th),01.42.72.25.76. M° Châtelet LE CAFE DE L’ALMA Contemporary Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. €€ (AE, DC, MC, V) 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. M° Alma-Marceau CARETTE Café With its mirrors and marble-topped tables, this is a quintessentially Parisian spot for lunch or a tasty pastry and rich hot chocolate. French breakfast pastries, delicious salads and sandwiches are served and you can take it all away with you, too. Daily continuous service B&L. € (MC, V). 4 place du Trocadéro (16th) , 01.47.27.98.85. M° Trocadéro

Enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne upon presentation of this page.

  DURAND DUPONT FRENCH CUISINE

4Open 4 4O Open pen everyday, service non stop from 8am to 2am 4 4Brunch Brunch every Sunday 4Patio available4Afterwork DJ’s 4 Patio and terrace available Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with DJ D J’s ’s

LA FONTAINE DE MARS Bistro A lively old-fashioned bistro serving such traditional French specialties as eggplant with goat cheese, mushroom pâté, cassoulet, and the house specialty, a prune and apple tart. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 129 rue St-Dominique (7th), 01.47.05.46.44. M° Ecole Militaire Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes.

For a starter enjoy espelette pepper flavoured grilled squid, crying Tiger, a Thai-style Black Angus beef dish served with Basmati rice. For dessert, enjoy Yuzu lemon meringue pie.

Le Café de l’Alma

14, place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine ) Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons

Tel: 01 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

GOURMET

Le P’Tit Rouge Bar Demory

Terroir Parisien

Charcuterie a Cut Above Cold Cuts By Patricia Valicenti

sausages as well as a line of potted meats like unctuous duck rillettes and foie gras with figs. And over at the French Beer Factory, where they brew their own unique beers, a platter of fine ham, coppa, homemade terrine and spicy chorizo sausage is recommended with the house’s amber beer.

Humble and delicious, charcuterie, a culinary

starred chef Yannick Alléno recently opened

art devoted to prepared meat has brought to

an establishment in the stock market district of

spread of cold meats, terrines and foie gras

tables of the world a host of famous French

Paris and put the spotlight on charcuterie with

to enjoy while you are in town, you can head

specialities. It is a branch of cuisine that is all

a space dedicated to the preparation of original

over to Gilles Vérot, who has put excellent and

about curing, smoking, salting and preparing to

terrines, Parisian sausages and blood puddings.

traditional charcuterie firmly in place on the

the beat of meticulous and often secret recipes.

In the evening starting at 6:30pm, the rillettes

Parisian gourmet landscape.

Found among the diverse and numerous

bar comes alive serving a fine flavoured variety

preparations of charcuterie are cured meats,

ranging from pork to sturgeon, accompanied by

fresh and smoked sausages, pâtés, terrines,

herbs, spices and condiments. Tucked away on a quiet side street in the chic

forcemeats, however, the term can also describe

suburb of Neuilly-sur-Seine, Le P’tit Rouge is

any product prepared using the traditional

still offering up the plentiful, convivial boards

charcuterie methods including poultry, veal,

of charcuterie that have drawn the local, well-

game and even fish.

heeled crowd for the past three years. Offerings

Originally charcuterie referred solely to pork

include a selection of thinly sliced sausages,

and pork butchery techniques, and like so many

Parma and Serrano hams and a remarkable

a gourmet thing, it all began with the Romans,

terrine spiked with the savoury red pepper of

whose porcella law set down the manner of

Espelette all accompanied by a fine and wide

rearing, feeding, slaughtering and preparing

selection of wines by the bottle or glass.

pork. The Romans are regarded as most probably instigating pork butchery as a trade. Today, charcuterie is also hearty, thrifty and

Meanwhile, Bar Demory has put together a fine selection of beer and ale served with homemade charcuterie from chef Lili Rojas-Diaz.

sustaining, in short filling, fashionable and fun as

The chef who trained with the labelled finest

friends gather around a table of platters served

French Craftsmen in the charcuterie branch has

with wine or finely brewed craft beer. Michelin-

come up with recipes for veal, pork and chicken

ADDRESSES Terroir Parisien Palais Brongniart 28 Place de la Bourse (2nd), 01 83 92 20 30 Bar Demory-Paris 62 rue Quincampoix (4th), 01 82 09 12 83 French Beer Factory 176 rue Montmartre (2nd), 01 44 82 04 72 Le P’tit Rouge 14 rue de Longchamp, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01 47 22 00 04 Gilles Vérot 3 rue Notre-Dame des Champs (6th), 01 45 48 83 32

Terroir Parisien in the Palais Brongniart Photo © Jean François Mallet

black puddings, ready-cooked dishes and

And if you want to put together your own

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dining time advertorial

French cuisine, 1st

Bistrot riChelieU ◗ 45 rue de Richelieu ◗ M° Palais Royal ◗ Tel: 01.42.60.19.16 ◗ www.bistrotrichelieu.com

Enjoy a glass of wine on the terrace or a nice meal with dishes including French classics such as onion soup, Burgundy snails, semi-cooked duck foie gras or warm apple tart with ice-cream. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday Service non-stop 9am-11.30pm

Vietnamese cuisine, 1st

aU Coin des GoUrMets ◗ 38 rue du Mont-Thabor ◗ Mº Concorde ◗ Tel: 01.42.60.79.79

This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine.You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes.

100% gluten-free products, 1st

papyBio ◗ 51 rue de Richelieu, M° Pyramides ◗ Tel: 01.43.66.31.77 ◗ Shop hours: Mon-Sat 11am-8pm ◗ www.papybio.com

The oldest bakery shop in Paris dating back to 1810 has been completely renovated. A wide selection of breads, savoury tarts, pastries and macaroons, all gluten-free, are among the offerings. Baking and pastry-making classes are available, too.

French cuisine, 8th

le Madeleine C. ◗ 5 rue Castellane, M° Madeleine ◗ Menu in different languages ◗ Tel: 01.42.65.00.12 ◗ www.madeleine-c.fr

The chef recommends scallops with julienne vegetables in a light sauce, filet of beef with mushrooms, foie gras and fries, 1/2 a lobster and large prawns, lobster cream sauce with spring vegetables and rice. 7/7 (6:30pm-midnight). Free glass of champagne for where® readers.

indian cuisine, 8th

santoor ◗ 30 rue Marbeuf ◗ M° Franklin D. Roosevelt ◗ Tel: 01.42.56.33.18 ◗ www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr

Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées. Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts.

Contemporary, 8th

Maison BlanChe ◗ 15 avenue Montaigne ◗ Metro: Alma Marceau ◗ Tel: 01.42.56.33.18 ◗ www.maisonblanche.com

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W H E R E PA R I S [ D I N I N G ]

JUST OUTSIDE OF PARIS

L’O RESTAURANT Contemporary Enjoy refined French and international cuisine on the waterfront in this restaurant in a barge moored on the Seine. Specialties include Cesar salad with crab, homemade tarama and marketbased fare. Valet parking. Daily L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V). 47 quai Michelet, Levallois-Perret, 01.41.34.32.86. Mº Pont de Levallois-Bécon ORIENT EXTREME Japanese Fine, contemporary Japanese cuisine is served in this elegant, luminous restaurant. Start with a salad of baby spinach and green asparagus followed by grilled black cod marinated in miso L’O Restaurant

WORTH THE DISTANCE D I S C O V E R T H E S E G R E AT TA B L E S A R O U N D PA R I S

or Wagyu beef in ponzu sauce. The cheesecake is a superb choice for dessert. Valet parking. Mon-Sat L, D. €€/€€€ (MC,V). 36bis rue de Sablonville, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.46.24.94.14. M°Porte Maillot/Les Sablons LE PRE CATELAN Classic French An elegant, century-old retreat in the Bois de

DURAND DUPONT Contemporary

JARRASSE Classic French

This is the perfect spot for business or casual

An excellent fish restaurant run by two-star chef

meals in a cosy atmosphere with a fine outdoor

Michel Rostang and his daughter, serving such

patio for warm weather days. The refined market-

dishes as breaded grilled mussels and wok-

based cuisine changes with the seasons.

seared tuna with foie gras. Good reasonably

Daily. B, L & D, continuous service until 2am.

priced wines.

€€€ (AE, V).

Daily. L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all)

14 pl du Marché, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92),

4 ave de Madrid, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92),

LE SEBILLON Classic French

01.41.92.93.00. Mº Porte Maillot/Les Sablons

01.46.24.07.56.

A favourite spot in the chic suburb of Neuilly

Mº Pont de Neuilly

right beside the Palais des Congrès serving

L’ILE Classic French

Boulogne, where Frédéric Anton serves such delicious dishes as small étrille crabs in a coraland-caviar gelée in this three-star restaurant. Tue-Sat L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Route de Suresnes, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.44.14.41.14. Car or taxi recommended.

wonderful oysters, crayfish and lobster. Try the

Nestled in a setting of lush greenery, this

LES MAGNOLIAS Contemporary

restaurant is housed in a Napoleon III pavilion.

A one-star restaurant with wildly inventive

Finely prepared classics include marinated

cuisine, including such dishes as rabbit “cookies”

Scottish salmon and sole meunière. The superb

with a gherkin île flottante.

atmosphere. The giant éclair comes in both

terrace is opened throughout the year.

Tue-Fri L & D, Sat D. €€ (AE, MC, V)

chocolate and coffee flavours.

Daily L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V). L’Ile Saint-Germain,

48 ave de Bry, Le Perreux-sur-Marne,

Daily L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all)

170 quai Stalingrad, Issy-les-Moulineaux,

01.48.72.47.43.

20 ave Charles de Gaulle,

01.41.09.99.99. Tramway Line T2, stop: Issy

A 15-min taxi ride, or RER to

Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.46.24.71.31.

Val-de-Seine; RER C, stop: Issy Val de Seine

Nogent-Le Perreux, then walk 10 min

Mº Porte Maillot

perfectly cooked leg of lamb carved at your table and enjoy the elegant yet family-style

V E G G I E F R I E N D LY TA B L E S

TUCK SHOP 100% vegetarian and serves great coffee 13 rue Lucien Sampaix (10th), 09 80 72 95 40 M.O.B Only vegan dishes found on this menu

34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01 42 77 51 05 KINUGAWA Chic dining on Japanese cuisine 9 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01 42 60 65 07 LE RELAIS GASCON Large, hearty salads are served at this café 6 rue des Abbesses (18th), 01 42 58 58 22

M.O.B

MOB PHOTO FRANCIS AMIAND

CONVIVIUM A lively atmosphere and authentic Sicilian cuisine 28 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 45 63 53 53

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gourmet inspiration ADVERtisEmEnt

WEPLER

LE BISTROT DU 7ÈME

TRADITIONAL FRENCh CuIsINE 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 29e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com

BIsTRO 4Seasonal products 4Daily (Lunch and Dinner) 4Lunch menu from 16e / Dinner menu 25e 4Terrace

One of the finest French onion soups in the capital, savour crayfish in cherry sauce, lobsters from Brittany, a marmite from Marseille served as a bouillabaisse and the Wepler classics from potted duck to savoury sauerkrauts.

14 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 Metro: Place de Clichy | Tel: 01 45 22 53 24 th

NOS ANCÊTRES LES GAULOIS MEDIEVAL AMBIANCE 4All-inclusive menu priced at 40e 4Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm 4www.nosancetreslesgaulois.com

Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. The all-inclusive menu, priced at 40€, features meats grilled over the fire and all the Bordeaux wine you need served from the pitcher.

39 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, Paris 4th Ile Saint-Louis Metro: Pont Marie | Tel: 01 46 33 66 07

A fine selection of appetisers, main courses and desserts are found here including lobster terrine, Burgundy snails for starters and fresh gilt-head bream or duck breast in pepper sauce for mains. Dinner is by candlelight. Reservations highly recommended.

56 blvd de la Tour-Maubourg, Paris 7th Metro: La Tour Maubourg | Tel: 01 45 51 93 08

LE LOUCHÉBEM TRADITIONAL FRENCh CuIsINE 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 23,90€ is not to be missed.

31 rue Berger, Paris 1st Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles | Tel: 01 42 33 12 99

LE LAMFÉ

LE CAFÉ DE L’ALMA

TRADITIONAL FRENCh CuIsINE 4Lamfé means the butcher’s wife 4Special Salers beef menu at 19.90e 4Unlimited carpaccio: 20.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lamfe.fr

CONTEMpORARy CuIsINE 4Fine cooking and non-stop Service 4www.cafe-de-l-alma.com

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

7 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles | Tel: 01 45 08 04 10

Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent.

5 ave Rapp, Paris 7th Metro: Alma-Marceau | Tel: 01 45 51 56 74

zITI

LE GASTROQUET

ITALIAN REsTAuRANT 4Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner from noon -3pm and in the evening from 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr

CLAssIC FRENCh 4Lunch & Dinner, Monday to Saturday 4www.gastroquet.com

Classic Italian specialties are served in this lively eatery off the ChampsElysées. Starters include a bresaolabased salad and Parma ham aged for 20 months. Homemade pastas are on the agenda with for example linguine in tuna and tomato sauce.

60 rue Pierre Charron, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin Roosevelt | Tel: 01 45 63 48 48

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Main courses include sautéed turbot and veal liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced mousse whiskey and Baileys is an original dessert choice.

10 rue Desnouettes, Paris 15th Metro: Convention/Porte de Versailles | Tel: 01 48 28 60 91 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. c o m 63

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[address book]

dining g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CAmboDiAnVietnAmese-LAotiAn (€€). A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde Aux LYonnAis - bistro (€€). A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot beeF CLub - bistro (€€€). As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel bistrot CApuCine - bistrot (€€). The marketbased menu in this cosy neighbourhood bistro changes daily. Recent offerings included poached cod with squid ink risotto and a very fine prime rib of beef is on the agenda in the evening. Cheese includes a classic Brie de Meaux while the excellent wine list offers some unusual finds. Mon-Fri L & D. 22 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.49.26.91.30. Mº Opéra bistro VoLnAY - bistrot (€€€). Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra bistrot riCheLieu - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Be tempted by the breast of duck in fig sauce or the sea bass in basil cream. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal LA tour De montLhérY-Chez Denise bistro (€€). This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Chez FLot tes - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). This Parisian brasserie is known for high quality products from Aveyron, characterised by a tradition of copious comfort foods, alongside superb meats and a fine selection of appetizers and salads. Daily from 7am-2am. 2 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.80.89. Mº Concorde DjAkArtA bALi - inDonesiAn (€). An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli Goust - Gourmet (€€€). Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. The menus change regularly but dishes can include tuna tartar with mango sauce or prawns with mushrooms. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra kinuGAwA - jApAnese (€€€). Refined, traditional Japanese cuisine at its best is to be found in this restaurant specialised in dishes from Kyoto. The sushi bar is regarded as one of the finest in the French capital. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries Le bAuDeLAire - meDiterrAneAn (€€€). At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Stéphane Tranchet prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine Le Costes - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Très chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor and plenty of attitude. The food’s okay but the star-studded scene’s the thing. Pretty interior patio. Daily B, L, D. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Mº Tuileries Le CosY - bistrot (€). In a cosy atmosphere, this typically Parisian bistro nestled into the intimate rue du Mont Thabor offers up traditional French cuisine through simple and savoury fare. The chef prepares his dishes with fresh products that will be thoroughly enjoyed by lovers of fine food. MonFri, B, L & D, continuous service, 8am-11pm/Sat brunch 10am-4pm. 26 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.92.01.41. M° Concorde Le GrAnD VeFour - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€). The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal Le LAmFé - CLAssiC FrenCh (€).Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will

suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Refined appetizers, like a classic marrow bone, are followed by fine beef dishes including a noble rib steak. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet Le meuriCe-ALAin DuCAsse - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€€). A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring stuffed cabbage with foie gras and black truffle cooked for two as a starter and sea bass fillet and sea scallops. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries Le LouChebem - bistro (€). Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles Le souFFLé - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde pApYbio - pAstrY (€). The oldest bakery shop in Paris dating back to 1810 has been completely renovated and features 100% gluten-free products. A wide selection of breads, savoury tarts, pastries and macaroons, all gluten-free, are among the offerings. Mon-Sat 11am-8pm. 51 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.43.66.31.77. M° Pyramides pAssAGe 53 - bistro (€€€). Japanese chef Shinichi Sato prepares superb French cuisine with a light Japanese touch using the finest of ingredients, like meat from Desnoyer. Located in the oldest covered arcade in town, this two-star restaurant offers an authentically Parisian experience. Tues-Sat. L&D. 53 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01.42.33.04.35. Mº Grands Boulevards

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) GeorGes - worLD Cuisine (€€€). Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau L’Ambroisie - hAute Cuisine (€€€€€). In a beautiful 17th-century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul Le serGent reCruteur - Gourmet (€€€). This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie minimes - brAsserie (€€€). This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L & D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 64 W H E R E Pa r i s I M AR C H 2014

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nos AnCÊtres Les GAuLois - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th)

Le montpArnAsse 1900 - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue/Vavin

A LC A z A r - b r A s s e r i e ( € € € ) . E n g l i s h restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

rALph’s - AmeriCAn (€€€). Ralph Lauren’s restaurant, found in the discreet courtyard of the designer’s Saint Germain boutique, is where you can enjoy fabulous American cuisine including cheeseburgers and hotdogs. For dessert try their generously sized chocolate chip cookies. Reservations are essential. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun Brunch & D. 173 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.44.77.76.00. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

Au mouLin à Vent - bistro (€€). This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Among the authentic offerings are prime rib with Béarnaise sauce, calf’s liver and frog legs. A delightful dessert is the Baba au rhum. Valet parking. Tues–Fri L&D/ Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

tAokAn - Chinese (€€€). Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Main courses include whole sole served with ginger soy marinade or duck in Hoisin sauce with dainty pancakes. Valet parking available. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice

CAFé De FLore - bistrot (€€). The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

ze kitChen GALerie - Fusion (€€). Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

CAFé Des Deux mAGots - CAFé (€€). The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The corner location facing the church makes it slightly more touristy than the rival Café de Flore, and prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 place Saint-Germain (6 th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GuY mArtin itALiA - itALiAn (€€€). Antipasti, cold meats and marinated vegetables are delightful starters in this authentic Italian restaurant established by Guy Martin. Chef Fabrizio La Mantia prepares a safran risotto and roast swordfish to perfection. Daily L & D. 19 rue Bréa (6th), 01.43.27.08.80. Mº Vavin héLène DArroze - southwestern FrenCh (€€). Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone LApérouse - Gourmet (€€€). This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel LA tour D’ArGent - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€€€). A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité LA truFFière - southwestern FrenCh (€€€). Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th-century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th)

Le GrAnD VeFour See page 64

rALph’s See this page

58 tour eiFFeL - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire ArpeGe - ContemporArY (€€€€€). Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne juLes Verne - hAute Cuisine (€€€€). This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

héLène DArroze See this page

L’Ami jeAn - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg L’AteLier De joeL robuChon - bistro (€€€). The lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon, serving very expensive small starters and such dishes as chicken “cannelloni” with foie gras and morel mushrooms. No reservations, and sometimes a long wait outside. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. Mº Rue du Bac Le bistrot Du 7e - bistro (€). A pleasant bistrot with a terrace serving traditional French cuisine at reasonable prices. Specialties include lobster terrine and duck breast, dinner is by candlelight. Daily L&D. 56 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01.45.51.93.08. Mº La Tour Maubourg

Les ombres See page 66

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 65

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[address book]

g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Café de Le CAFé De L’aLma L’ALmA - Contemporary ContemporArY (€€). Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. Mº Alma-Marceau Contemporary (€€€€). The Les ombres - ContemporArY spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

ChAmps-elysées (8th) Around the ChAMPs-eLysées faubourg - brAsserie brasserie (€€€). An elegant 114 FAubourG one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a millefeuille with salty caramel sauce. 7/7, L & D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil Contemporary (€€€). This glamorous one39V - ContemporArY star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Try the delicious white wine from the Greek island of Tinos. Valet parking in the evening. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V apiCius - ContemporArY Contemporary (€€€€). The two-star ApiCius restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule bateaux-mouChes - CLassiC frenCh (€€€). bAteAux-mouChes CLAssiC FrenCh Savour homemade duck foie gras with cocoa and ginger to start then try the turbot with vegetable tagliatelle from the Excellence dinner menu. Vegetarian dishes are available, too. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays for lunch at 1pm. Passengers must arrive prior to departure times. Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau andré - bistro (€€). Superb, authentic bistro Chez AnDré cuisine just steps away from the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy solid traditional French food highlighting regional meats of France and the freshest of fish in a cosy setting. Daily, continuous service L&D. 12 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.20.59.57. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt gourmet (€€€€€). The beautiful dining epiCure - Gourmet room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil fauChon Le CAFé Café - Gourmet gourmet (€€). This temple FAuChon to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Offering a great view of Place de la Madeleine. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L & D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine par guy martin - CLAssiC CLassiC FrenCh frenCh (€€). Le 68 pAr GuY mArtin Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V/Franklin D. Roosevelt

Le safran See this page See page 64 Au Coin Des Gourmets L’astor - Gourmet gourmet (€€€). Chef Nicolas Clavier’s L’Astor original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. MonFri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin gourmet (€€€€€). Chef Eric Briffard offers Le Cinq - Gourmet wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth and milk-fed lamb with Espelette pepper. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V La tAbLe tabLe Du du LAnCAster LanCaster - Fusion fusion (€€€€). This LA delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Dishes can include herb-roasted saddle of lamb for a starter followed by sole with chives. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V de pAris paris - CLAssiC CLassiC FrenCh frenCh (€€€). This Le piChet De quintessential Parisian eating establishment serves classic French fare in a warm setting. Specialities include superb seafood, perfectly prepared fish dishes like fresh cod with olive oil and basil and rack of lamb. Homemade pastries are featured on the dessert menu. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 68 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.43.59.50.34. Mº George V safran - gourmet Le sAFrAn Gourmet (€€€). Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. The piano is played on Saturday evenings and Sunday brunch comes complete with free entertainment for children. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles maison bLAnChe bLanChe - ContemporArY Contemporary (€€€€). Chef mAison Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau ratn - inDiAn indian (€€€). Since 1976, the Bhalla family, rAtn originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V santoor - inDiAn indian (€). Just off the Champs-Elysées, sAntoor a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

garden - Chinese (€€). The interior is designed zen GArDen to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. The relaxing atmosphere is perfect for savouring gastronomic Chinese cuisine. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

opérA GArnier GArnIer Around oPérA pIGAlle (9th, 10th,18th) & PiGALLe Chartier - CLAssiC CLassiC FrenCh frenCh (€). The bouiLLon ChArtier mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hardboiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards Café De de LA La pAix paix - CLAssiC CLassiC FrenCh frenCh (€€€). This CAFé classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L & D. 5 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra Café pouChkine pouChKine - CAFé Le CAFé Café (€). This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Excellent hot chocolate and authentic Russian beverages are all on the agenda. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin gioia mia GioiA miA - itaLian itALiAn (€€). This delightful family-run Italian eatery serves up specialties of the Puglia in a relaxed atmosphere. Spinach ricotta raviolis with an infusion of sage and butter and homemade steak tartare are among the fine finds on the menu along with one of Charles de Gaulle’s favourite wines, Capo di Stato. Mon-Fri L&D. 61 rue de Provence (9th), 01.45.26.61.30. Mº Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette LumiÈre - Gourmet gourmet (€€€). Enjoy lunch, dinner Le Lumière or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L & D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 66 W H E R E Pa r i s I M AR C H 2014

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L’operA restAurAnt - ContemporArY (€€€). Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood. Young chef Yann Tanneau serves traditional dishes with a twist and changes his menu regularly though keeping the house dessert, l’Opera. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra wepLer - brAsserie (€). Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) bLue eLephAnt - thAi (€€€). Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. The team of Thai chefs prepares jumbo shrimp soup with lemon grass and lamb Massamam among other specialties. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille septime - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Traditional French fare featuring inventive market-based cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. TuesFri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne L’epiCerie sAint-sAbin - southwestern FrenCh (€€). You can enjoy savoury specialities from the southwest of France in this cosy restaurant in the Bastille neighbourhood. Continuous service Tues, Wed 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-9pm, Fri 10am-10pm, Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 10am-2pm. 13 rue Saint-Sabin (11th), 09.67.29.89.33. Mº Bastille/ Breguet Sabin Les GrAnDes mArChes - brAsserie (€€). A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Tuck into a tasty French onion soup or foie gras to start, followed by cod fillet in a lemon butter sauce or a prime cut of beef. Daily B, L&D. 6 place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille Le trAin bLeu - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le bAr A huÎtres - seAFooD (€€€). This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin Le CieL De pAris - Gourmet (€€€). Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, opt for a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in their Champagne Bar. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse Le GAstroquet - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious

traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles SaintJacques. Main courses include sautéed turbot and veal liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced mousse whiskey and Baileys is an original dessert choice. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles Le quinzieme - Fusion (€€€). One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves deliciously prepared classics often accompanied by heirloom vegetables. Starters include crayfish ravioli in cabbage broth followed, for example, by savoury sea scallops served with enticing Jerusalem artichokes. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy, (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

114 FAubourG See page 66

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) Au petit ViCtor huGo - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). This convivial and refined restaurant is located in one of the capital’s most elegant neighbourhoods. The fresh, market based cuisine features classical French cooking. Starters can include foie gras or marinated herring while sole and rich veal stew are among the main courses. Daily L&D, Sun L only. 143 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.53.02.68. Mº Victor Hugo bon - Fusion (€€€). Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette CristAL room bACCArAt - moDern CLAssiC (€€€). A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 pl des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière Le GrAnD bistro sAint FerDinAnD - bistro (€€). This family-style bistro specialises in an allinclusive menu with aperitif, starter, main course, dessert, coffee and bottle of wine for two. Oysters, foie gras, wild sole and duckling from Challans are all on the agenda. Daily L & D. 275 blvd Pereire (17th) , 01.45.74.33.32. M° Porte Maillot jAmin - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving good food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service. Chef David Legrand prepares a market-oriented menu. Highlights include crispy prawns with sesame vinaigrette and perfectly roasted free-range chicken with mashed potatoes. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Iéna L’AuberGe DAb - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot monsieur bLeu - ContemporArY (€€). This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate juice. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna shAnG pALACe - Chinese (€€€€). This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

LApérouse See page 65

Le CAFé De L’ALmA See page 66

shAnG pALACe See this page

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 67

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ENTERTAINMENT

MOONSHINER In the 11th arrondissement, close to Place de la Bastille, is Moonshiner. This cool speakeasy bar is hidden behind the walk-in fridge at Da Vito pizzeria, which serves great pizza and makes for a great snack on your way out after a night of drinking. Once inside you will be welcomed by an ambiance straight from the 20s, complete with jazz playing in the background and a friendly barman who is happy to mix you your favourite drink. The bar also features a large fumoir for guests who still enjoy a cigarette with their drink. 6pm to 2am daily. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09 50 73 12 99

EGLISE DE LA MADELEINE PHOTO ÂŠ PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - MARC BERTRAND

BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

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CALL ME BUBBLES In the heart of the 18th arrondissement, a few steps away from the magnificent Sacré Coeur is Call Me Bubbles, the bar where the champagne never stops flowing. From a bottle of vintage Dom Perignon to a more affordable glass of Valéry Robert Rosé, this cute little bar offers a glass or a bottle of bubbly suited to every budget. Enjoy your champagne with tapas and sushi in the intimate retro bar after a day of sightseeing or before a night of bar hopping in the vibrant neighbourhood. Open from Tuesday to Thursday from 5 to 11pm and till midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. 54 rue Custine (18th), 09 72 42 13 12

CLASSICAL CONCERTS

Mar 12, 13 at 8pm Orchestre de Paris, performs Strauss under the direction of Marek Janowski and featuring the soprano Anja Harteros.10-60€. Mar 16 at 4pm Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra, the 100th Anniversary Tour, performs Mayuzumi, Tchaikovsky and Stravinsky. 10-45€. Mar 17 at 8pm San Francisco Symphony, under the direction of Michael Tilson Thomas and with the St. Lawrence String Quartet performs Ives, Brant, John Adams and Beethoven. 10-85€. Mar 23 at 11am Richard Wagner, the Orchestre du Conservatoire de Paris performs selections from Tannhäuser and Siegfried Idyll. 8€. For full programme and on-line ticket purchases visit www.sallepleyel.fr. 252 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) 01.42.56.13.13. M° Ternes THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Mar 7 at 8pm Nikolai Lugansky, the pianist

Eglise de la Madeleine EGLISE DE LA MADELEINE Mar 8 at 8:30pm Mozart, Requiem/Haydn Nelson Mass with orchestra and soloists under the direction of Till Aly. 20-40€. Mar 11 at 8:30pm Vivialdi, The Four Seasons/Schubert Caccini with orchestra and soloists under the direction of André Rebacz. 30€. Tickets at the church the day of the concert or bookings at www.fnac.com or www.concerts-sveto.com. Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.64.83.16. M° Madeleine

EGLISE SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRES Mar 21 at 8:30pm Mozart, Requiem and selections, with orchestra and soloists under the direction of Till Aly. 20-40€. Tickets at the church or bookings at www.fnac.com or www.concerts-sveto.com. www.gospeldream.fr. 3 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th), 01.43.14.08.10. M° St-Germain-des-Prés

performs Franck, Prokofiev and Rachmaninoff. 5-65€. Mar 12 at 8pm Staatskapelle Dresden, under the direction of Christian Thielemann with Lars Vogt on the piano performs Liszt, Beethoven and Strauss. 5-85€. Mar 13 at 8pm Orchestre National de France, 80th anniversary celebrations, performs under the direction of Riccardo Muti. 5-85€. Mar 15 at 8pm City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra, under the direction of Andris Nelsons and with Hélène Grimaud on the piano performs Brahms and Stravinsky. 5-95€. For full programme visit

SALLE PLEYEL Mar 4 at 8pm Khatia Buniatishvili, the pianist performs Ravel and Moussorgsky. 10-30€.

www.theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

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OPERA & BALLET

Opéra Garnier

CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES Mar 8 at 8pm Herculanum, the concert version of Félicien David’s 4-act opera blending Antiquity with the exotic. 25-95€. For full programme and reservations visit www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr. Ave Rockefeller (78), 01.30.83.78.89. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche OPERA BASTILLE Mar 4, 7, 12 at 7:30pm Madame Butterfly, Puccini’s masterpiece set in early 20th century Japan. 5-180€. Mar 11, 14, 17, 20, 22, 25, 29 at 7:30pm Die Zauberflöte, Mozart’s masterpiece, the Magic Flute that takes place in a magical land between the sun and the moon. 5-195€. Mar 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 31 at 7:30pm La Bohème, Puccini’s 4-act opera set in Paris. 5-180€. Full programme visit www.operadeparis.fr. 120 rue de Lyon (12th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Bastille OPERA COMIQUE Built in 1783 on the grounds of the property of the Duke of Choiseul, just off the Boulevard des Italiens, this gorgeous theatre was decorated

by the most famous artists of La Belle Epoque: Gervex, Merson, Flameng, Maignan and Constant. Mar 20, 22, 24, 25, 27 at 8pm & Mar 30 at 3pm Platée, Rameau’s great composition featuring the gods and animals, with musical direction by WIlliam Christie. 6-120€. For tickets, reservations and full programme www.opera-comique.com. Place Boieldieu (2nd), 08.25.01.01.23. M° Richelieu-Drouot OPERA GARNIER Mar 4-5 at 7:30pm Eugene Onegin, John Cranko’s 3-act ballet based on the novel in verse by Pushkin and set to music by Tchaikovsky.10-110€. Mar 3, 6, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13 at 7:30pm, Mar 1 at 8pm & Mar 1, 2, 9 at 2:30pm Birgit Cullberg & Agnes de Mille, works choreographed by these two pioneers of 20th century dance. 10-92€. Mar 31 at 7:30pm L’Italiana in Algeri, Rossini’s delightful opera recounting the adventure of an Italian, Isabella, in Algeria. 10-185€. For additional information and reservations visit www.operadeparis.fr. Palais Garnier, Place de l’Opera (9th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Opéra PALAIS DES CONGRÈS Mar 1, 16 at 8:30pm & Mar 2 at 4pm Le Gala des Etoiles, leading soloists from around the world pay tribute to the renowned dancer Manuel Legris. 52-76€. Tickets at FNAC www.fnac.com. Porte Maillot (17th), 08.92.68.36.22. Or reservations at the Palais des Congrès 08.92.05.00.50. M° Porte Maillot THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Mar 11 at 8pm Les Fêtes de l’hymen et de l’amour, Rameau’s opera-ballet based on

Egyptian mythology. 5-85€. Mar 18 at 6:30pm Der Rosenkavalier, three-act comic opera by Richard Strauss performed by soloists with the orchestra and choir of the Munich Opera. 5-125€. Tickets and reservations at www.theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th). Tickets and reservations call 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

DANCE I SHOWS PALAIS DES CONGRÈS Mar 7 at 8pm Fête de la Saint Patrick, music, song and a lot of Celtic dance are on hand for this energetic show celebrating Saint Patrick’s Day. 42.50-62.50€. Tickets at FNAC www.fnac.com. Porte Maillot (17th), 08.92.68.36.22.Or reservations at the Palais des Congrès 08.92.05.00.50. M° Porte Maillot THEATRE NATIONAL DE CHAILLOT The doors to this theatre open an hour and a half before the show. Within, a bookstore, a bar and a restaurant. Mar 13, 14 at 7pm & Mar 15 at 5pm Tero Saarinen Company/ The Boston Camerata brings together 8 singers and dancers to perform Borrowed Light, a work inspired by the universe of the Shakers. 33€. Mar 25-Mar 28 at 8:30pm Eric Lamoureux/ Thierry Thieû Niang, two great dancers and choreographers perform the calming work Une douce imprudence. 33€. For full programme, reservations and tickets visit www.theatre-chaillot.fr. 1 place du Trocadéro (16th), 01.53.65.30.00. M° Trocadéro

CASINO DE PARIS Mar 18-Mar 30 Tues-Fri at 8pm, Sat at 3pm & 8pm, Sun at 3pm Ballet Revolucion, classical ballet, street dance and more performed by dancers trained at the Cuban school of dance. 29-67€. Full programme at www.casinodeparis.fr. Reservations call 08 92 69 89 26. Tickets at FNAC www.fnac.com. 16 rue de Clichy (9th), 08.92.39.04.90. M° Liège

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ADVERTORIAL

How to become Parisian in one hour? As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud, the very talented and handsome comedian, has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a

5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a

pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.

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W H E R E PA R I S [ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

JAZZ CLUBS

CAFE UNIVERSEL One of the up and coming jazz clubs in Paris located near the Latin Quarter. A welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. Free concerts are held at 9pm. For full programme go to www.myspace.com/cafeuniversel. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. Shows change regularly, check website for details. Entrance fee Sun-Thurs 12€, Fri, Sat, holiday eves, 14€, drinks 5-8€. www.caveaudelahuchette.fr. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. Mº St-Michel DUC DES LOMBARDS One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs, the decor is completely modern but the inspiration comes from the past as Elliot Barnes based his designs on the rarely played Duke Ellington song, Black Brown Beige. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings

Jazz Club Etoile and a healthy mix of jazzman jams make this the address for Jazz. An all-natural menu is also served continuously. For full programme and reservations www.ducdeslombards.com. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. Mº Chatêlet JAZZ CLUB ETOILE True temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton.

In addition to a rich program beginning every night at 10pm, new talents are on the bill every Monday evening, and on Sundays enjoy a jazzfilled brunch. Sushi menu from 5:30pm-10pm, interior courtyard garden and fabulous cocktails. Apéro Jazz cocktail time Tuesday nights from 7:30pm to 10:30pm features a pianist and vocalist. Check website for complete programme www. jazzclub-paris.com. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. Mº Porte Maillot

ROCK, POP, HIP HOP

LA CIGALE Built in 1887 as a theatre, this historical monument served as a Cabaret and in 1987, Philip Starck transformed the aging theatre into a multipurpose venue that hosts some of the most avant-garde artists on the international scene. Mar 16 at 7pm The Temptations. 49.90-59.80€. Full programme see www.lacigale.fr. 120 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.49.25.81.75. M° Anvers L’OLYMPIA The legendary music hall of Bruno Coquatrix. Mar 4 at 8:30pm Manu Dibango. 29.70-55€. Mar 12 at 8pm Beth Hart. 45.50-67.50€. Mar 13 at 8:30pm The James Brown Tribute Show. 35-59€. For full programme see www.olympiahall.com.

28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08.92.68.33.68. M° Opera; Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com. 08.92.39.04.90. M° Opéra. THEATRE LE TRIANON One of the capital’s mythical venues. Rebuilt in 1902, after a devastating fire, it was a favourite haunt of Jacques Brel who wrote some of his lyrics there. Mar 23 at 8pm Alex Hepburn. 29.60€. Mar 24 at 8pm Keziah Jones. 36.75€. For tickets and reservations visit www.fnac.com. 80 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.44.92.78.03. M° Anvers LE ZENITH Launched over 25 years ago, this theatre has become a mythical venue for fine music. Mar 12 at 8pm Fall out Boy. 39.50€. Mar 18 at 8pm Backstreet Boys. 40.60-48.30€. Mar 25 at 8pm James Blunt. 39.50-61.50€. Full schedule and programme at www.zenith-paris.com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com/08.92.68.36.22. Parc de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th). M° Porte de Pantin

L’Olympia

OLYMPIA PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - DAVID LEFRANC

CASINO DE PARIS Mar 8 at 7pm Bonobo. 40.70-44€. Mar 13-14 at 8pm Liz McComb. 22-71.50€. Full programme and tickets www.casinodeparis.fr. Or tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com. 16 rue de Clichy (9th), 08.92.69.89.26. M° Liège

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photos : Jacques MOATTI / Lunxun CHEN

BALLET DE

SHANGHAI FROM MARCH 13TH TO 20TH AT THE PALAIS DES SPORTS OF PARIS PORTE DE VERSAILLES

more info on

balletdeshanghai.valprod.fr

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W H E R E PA R I S [ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

BARS

LE BAR The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail. Redecorated with a voluptuous decor by designer Jacques Garcia. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés BAR LE BAUDELAIRE This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails beneath a ceiling fresco evoking “The Flowers of Evil”, Charles Baudelaire’s masterpiece. The bar offers 50 different champagnes and 40 Cognacs. Daily from 5pm-1am. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine BUDDHA BAR This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. Mº Concorde LA CLOSERIE DES LILAS The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. Enjoy the piano player, the best Daiquiri in Paris and being yourself. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Mº Vavin or RER Port-Royal DOOBIES A trendy restaurant/bar where you have to ring the doorbell to get in. Tues-Sat from 7:30 pm; Fri & Sun from 12 pm. 2 rue Robert Estienne (8th), 01.53.76.10.76. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

PARK HYATT PARIS VENDOME BAR This bar serves a wide variety of refreshments including nine champagnes by the glass and 70 different whiskies and house cocktails. Nibble on tapas prepared by Jean-François Rouquette. 2pm-2am. 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.71.12.34. Mº Opéra EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL BAR fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. Mº Sentier HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and friendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. Mº Opéra HOTEL COSTES BAR This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching. The décor is sumptuous as are the cocktails and the very fine champagne list. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. Mº Tuileries PRESCRIPTION COCKTAIL CLUB This clubby bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails. The hot spot offers cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. Mº Mabillon LE ROSEBUD This bar in the heart of Montparnasse has been

a favourite haunt for a drink for decades. The cocktails are generous and served in a 1930’s ambiance. 7pm-2am. 11bis rue Delambre (14th), 01.43.35.38.54. Mº Vavin TOKEN 138 This cosy and fun bar is ideal for a relaxing night out. The cocktail menu features original cocktails mixed with different price ranged alcohols to suit both taste and budget. 138 rue Montmartre (2nd), 01.71.93.08.53. Mº Bourse LA VUE A stunning view is to be had by all from the 33rd floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile hotel, perched on the western edge of Paris. Sit back into the stunning décor highlighted by designer Pier Luigi Copat’s majestic chandelier and sip your drink in a refined ambiance overlooking the city and its lights. 3 place du Général Koenig (17th), 01.40.68.50.68. Mº Porte Maillot W HOTEL BAR This superb bar has a sleek counter where fashionistas and socialites gather to mingle while sipping the house cocktail, The Spark. 4 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. Mº Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette

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LA REVUE DU PLUS CÉLÈBRE CABARET DU MONDE ! DINER ET REVUE À 19H À PARTIR DE 180 € REVUE À 21H ET À 23H : 109 €

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W H E R E PA R I S

NIGHT CLUBS

CLUB 79

LE BARON You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance – there’s live music- attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau LE MONTANA This nightclub in the heart of the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. Popular with the fashion crowd and rock stars, it is a perfect place for people watching, once you’re inside. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

LE PARIS PARIS This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club has a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. TuesSat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

VIP ROOM One of the most exclusive of the clubs currently on the Parisian nightlife scene. This chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

RASPOUTINE This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne. The club’s décor, created by the celebrated Russian designer Erté, is listed on the inventory of historic monuments. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

LE SHOWCASE Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Look good and don’t miss breakfast. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

MOULIN ROUGE © MOULIN ROUGE

This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. www.club79.fr. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V

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CABARETS

Moulin Rouge

CRAZY HORSE A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. The show and half bottle of champagne or 2 drinks: starting at €125. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau LIDO The current show, Bonheur, is a song-and-dance spectacular with 70 artists, 23 sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Show with half bottle of champagne at

9:30pm (105€) & 11:30 pm

MUGLER FOLLIES

(95€). Mon-Sun: Dinner &

This sexy review with original

show at 7:00 pm (160-300€).

songs was put together

Sun & Tues: Lunch & show at

by Manfred T. Mugler, the

1pm (140€). www.lido.fr. 116 bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

designer behind fashion label Thierry Mugler. Dancers, acrobats and singers are joined onstage with comedians, performers and

MOULIN ROUGE

models in a vibrant show

This famous cabaret is home

that reinvents the traditional

to the original cancan. The

cabaret. The show is not

current show, Féerie, sparkles

recommended for children.

with talented performers,

Dinner and show catered by

including the 60 Doriss girls,

Fouquet’s starts at 7:30pm,

1,000 costumes of feathers,

from 156€. Show only with a

rhinestones and sequins and

glass of champagne starts at

spectacular staging.

8pm, from 89€.

Dinner & show start at 7pm

Show only starts at 8:45pm

(180-210€); Show only starts

(doors open at 8:20),

at 9pm or 11pm for 109€ (with

from 56€.

half bottle of champagne).

www.muglerfollies.com.

www.moulinrouge.fr

Le Comédia,

82 blvd de Clichy (18th),

4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th),

01.53.09.82.82.

01.42.38.22.22.

M° Blanche

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S KE TRAVEL BETWEEN CHARLES E RU DU C NT DE GAULLE AIRPORT PO LBIA Nationale TO CH Cour N IM lace EV D DE HE SO AL St-Émilion Italie AR RK IS AND E R ORLY AIRPORT CL DU EV ET UL O C B Air France buses Charles de IA T leave daily from R. JS CO LB .B A CH AR NY TO CH CIN MY OS Gaulle for Orly DU .G R É5:55am to 10:30pm PLACE(Roissy) from R M . R NN DO JEANNE D'ARC R . UT AV MA EN CA R . XA IN T RA I L L E S Sto Charles UE RI fromDEOrly Airport Bibliothèque PLACEAirport/departures MA R. O Mitterrand HO E T T NATIONALE D L O R. R. CH ÂTE F. D de R. A U Gaulle AirportEfrom 6:30am to 10:30pm. ED RU ISO N TT (Onboard: 20€ one way, 34€ round trip/Online: Parc de WA Choisy AC ÏF T O L BI RU BA AN E 18€ one way, 30.50€ round trip). Frequency: UE . DE E AGN R D C A E M . A J N TA DR. GR R. RUE EL A every 30 minutes. Journey takes 45 to 60 EN IN É OUD SS MA minutes. Also RERRUEBE.from Charles de Gaulle to RET . PER R. A AV EN the Antony station then the OrlyVal service UE LT NAU REG ULE to Orly Sud. OrlyVal metros leave daily from VIST D' IV E LA ON RY R. D RD RUE A X V U A 6am-11pm from Antony and Orly Sud. Travel E AI L L L U R UE C U UX E TRO BO B O Uairports is about 1 hour time between theAVEtwo NUE A and 10 E N minutes. www.aeroportsdeparis.fr S S P AV PIN

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ME R ND . TO ORLY AIRPORT LA M UL ELS ULE LA SO O RT E A EV E HN PL.DE LA UX 7/7 call O N N Alexandre A R Charonne E CHAR S RÉUNION D The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E U E Pont R NE RU X Marie I E R Orlyval, an PLACE automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval RONNE 06 85 81 09 05 RO RU TER AC EL E L Porte de E DE CHA Bastille 4e DRE R. D DE LA R . Montreuil S PORTE DE S TDE DE XAN DE DE A N Truns every R. 5-7 min, S U I L MONTREUIL ALE BASTILLE L A P 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The OINE O N T RE E CÉ V IL PE M Maraîchers D 0033 (0)6 85 81 09 05 C R U E E S L LE RU RUE ST E MR U Opéra ZY INS RER CHAN TIT . DE L Bastille Massy-Verrières connects I V C direction RON Buzenval R. A PE D 'AV RUE DELESCLUZE U Rue des D C QU ERI BL AI I S A I a shuttle bus that goes to Orly (6.45€). Or R. Boulets VD E D'A N R with Ledru HE NJ RU S RUE Rollin O E Avron CH AM P EN Sully VO L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau B LV IL LT REU DE S T E A N D RU O EB U M IR ÉTH L LY DE RUE E SU UN Métro stop (14th), every 20 min 5:35 am-11 FA U B O U R E DE DE R. IGN É PLAINE G LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A PO R. MO R NAY pm (7.20€). Air France buses leave from the E Faidherbe IN ANTO R. D MB. R L A S Chaligny É O C . R INE L PRINTEMPS L AG N Y SCH DE RU E ITUT Nation NATION RO Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) the PL.DES ONDE PLACE DE ANTILLES QU Porte de ABE LA NATION RU Vincennes T O C Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile) D R Y A L O L A B . R E U D RS DI LE AV PORTE DEyour wellbeing enjoy For P. té DE R. AR D EN IA N DU Quai de e Curie OR B O UL EVReuilly-Diderot PA R R OT (rue UE and GareUEMontparnasse duCHAcommandant V IN C E NVINCENNES RE E D R. AI la Rapée VII ND AV RE NT NES EZ EN a massage in your hotel room N V -V T TO A Gare Montparnasse) de OU ER Mouchotte, M° Gare DI DE RO ÛTE BE N every 20 S VI D T VO Lyon AR Gare CU RN HA LA ER A UC LE VA RD de Lyon R. R T E OU A AR B E Z É D AVE NU E N IT 5am-10:40pm from airport 6amRU NT Call Now 7/7 . B E D PO RLminutes, Ménageries RG MO DE RU E SE R. ST SA I N T DE DU AU Picpus R. E T trip/ H 12€ one way, 20€ round AVE Jardin des D'11:40pm (Onboard: MA ND É CH UE OG ILL T Gare R U Montgallet A E C OU R T EL VE S G AL O Plantes LL d’Austerlitz I N E V. ON N D MB GA HUGO Online: 11€ oneRUway, 18€ round VA NT R Atrip). AU ande E MO ME R. MOUSSET DE E R UE S A N TER RE LE PORTE DE uée SN RU ROBERT RU NT AUL R. N O E D Y O www.aeroportsdeparis.fr P ST-MANDÉ IL L G F A aris E RNO E L UIL BUF DE RUE DAGO

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W h e r e pa r i s [ n a v i g at e ] Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.70€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 13.70€). This map includes the new tramway line.

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 10.85€, 2-day 17.65€, 3-day 24.10€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty

Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. �� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� Open Monday-Saturday from �:�� am to � pm. Thursday until �� pm. — www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. �� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� Open every day from �� am until � pm including Sunday. — www.printemps.com

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[THE VIEW FROM HERE]

My Paris

Le Victoria

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré is obviously the place where fashion is everywhere! It is there that they will find the famous Hermès boutique that I personally enjoy and also many Parisians.

Eric BRULANT Head Concierge at Hotel Bedford Where recently sat with Head Concierge of Hotel Bedford, Eric Brulant, to pick his brain on where and what our readers should go and see while visiting the French capital

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? The Grand Colbert, which offers a warm atmosphere and good service, and there is Le Voltaire, where the food is delicious and the staff friendly. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? Undoubtedly from Noura restaurant that is

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? I recommend Le Pré Catelan, which is a romantic and modern place. This restaurant offers fine dining and excellent service. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? Recently I discovered a very special and unusual shop, Les Caves de Taillevent. It is a wine shop as well as a restaurant. When you dine there you are surrounded by hundreds of fine wines and quality wines that you can buy at a very affordable price. This shop is definitely my monthly favourite.

located in the 9th floor of the Institut du Monde Arabe. This restaurant offers a breathtaking view over the rooftops of Paris. This is a magical place for your readers. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? For revellers, I suggest the VIP Room and for those who prefer a quieter place I would recommend Chez Denise, which is a very warm and friendly place.

Place de la Concorde

Salle Pleyel

MY PERFECT DAY 9am Breakfast at Ladurée 12pm Exhibition at the Jacquemart André museum 3pm A walk through the Marais and tea at Mariage Frères 9pm A concert at Salle Pleyel

Le Terminus Café

where

Your Guide to the World

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Firstly I would recommend breakfast at Le Victoria, the hotel’s restaurant. It features a splendid dome that adorns the ceiling and a Baroque-style fountain. Then I would suggest a morning walk from the Madeleine to Place de la Concorde and through the Tuileries garden and head to the Louvre. For lunch I would suggest Mon Vieil Ami on the Ile Saint-Louis before visiting and discovering the beauty of Sainte Chapelle and Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cité. In the evening they could go up the Eiffel Tower from where they will have a splendid view of all of Paris illuminated, alternatively they can enjoy a boat ride on the Seine followed by dinner at Maison Blanche.

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