Where Paris - June 2014 by Where Paris

JUNE 2 0 14

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE 速

THIERRY MARX Meet the Celebrated French Chef

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CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

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PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

CONTENTS

[THE GUIDE] 16 SHOPPING

The city’s latest boutique openings, trends and address book for everything fashion related 48 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

60 DINING

Our selection of restaurants for every mood and every taste 76 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s hottest bars, clubs and ballets

86 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings JUNE 2 0 14

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

THIERRY MARX Meet the Celebrated French Chef

FASHION

CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS

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ON THE COVER

08 Hot Dates This month’s calendar of hot dates

14/05/2014 10:08

MONSIEUR BLEU PHOTO © ADRIEN DIRAND; ÊTE FORAINE AUX TUILERIES – ÉTÉ 2009 © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE – MARC BERTRAND

This month’s round-up of exhibits, trade shows and must-see monuments

Photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Paris Hotel Turn to page 10 to meet the talented chef

10 A Delicious Variety of Marxism Meet Thierry Marx, the celebrated French chef who is changing all the rules in the kitchen

14 Fabulous Fare, Fabulous Views We bring you the best tables to enjoy delicious fare and a great view of the French capital

90 My Paris

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Head Concierge Jean Emmanuel Mendes shares his favourite things about Paris Facebook.com/whereparismagazine Twitter.com/whereparis

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SUMMER BEGINS at

22 AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES, 75008 PARIS, FRANCE BANANAREPUBLIC.EU/FRANCE

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the team | where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and GEnERaL manaGER

Pascal Tranchant Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@morriseurope.com EdITOR Sandra Iskander*

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

GROUP aRT dIRECTOR Tim Benton SEnIOR dESIGnER Lee Henry PROdUCTIOn manaGER/LOndOn Melanie Needham SEnIOR PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT Jennifer Bourne PROdUCTIOn aSSISTanT David Weeks COnTRIBUTInG WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

Fun, Food and Fashion regarded as a culinary capital, Paris boasts some of the best restaurants in the world, and more importantly the most talented chefs. This month we meet Michelin-starred chef Thierry Marx, who, with his avant-garde approach to cooking has changed the rules in French cooking. We also share with you our favourite tables that offer great food and fabulous views of the city.

dESIGnER and PROdUCTIOn manaGER Céline Février* dESIGnER and WEB dESIGnER Laura Zaharia* SaLES dIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet

jeanlouis.rouxfouillet@wheremagazine.com advERTISInG - SEnIOR aCCOUnT manaGERS Corinne Durant*, Jana Herrmann* advERTISInG - aCCOUnT manaGER Delphine Ivanchenko* dISTRIBUTIOn and HOTEL SERvICES manaGER Suzanne Tang* SaLES & maRKETInG aSSISTanT Jennifer Groult* OFFICE manaGER Emmanuelle Marquet*

Of course any trip to the fashion capital is incomplete without indulging in a spending spree and in this issue you will find all the latest trends as well as limited edition collections that will have your friends back home green with envy. and on page 32 we give you a peak into what you can find in the chic centres in and around Paris.

*E-maIL FOR aLL OF THE aBOvE FIRSTnamE.LaSTnamE@WHEREmaGazInE.COm

MOrriS ViSiTOr PUBLiCaTiONS

MVP i EUROPE manaGInG dIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTiVE PRESIdEnT Donna W. Kessler

MVP i CREATiVE CHIEF CREaTIvE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson dESIGn dIRECTOR Jane Frey

Must-see exhibits, including Once Upon a Time, The Orient Express and i’ve returned from Hollywood, a photo exhibit showcasing works by Willy rizzo, are on the cultural agenda this month as well as a day trip to Yerres to discover the works of Gustave Caillebotte. and if you love flying and sightseeing then you will also love our a View from the Top story on page 56. Bars, clubs and cabarets round up our issue this month for your entertainment pleasure as well as a host of concerts and jazz clubs.

CREaTIvE COORdInaTOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MOrriS COMMUNiCaTiONS CHaIRman & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIdEnT William S. Morris IV

Edité par Where Paris sNC. société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 rCs Paris. représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 54,080 (OJD 2013). N° de issN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: juin 2014. reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. all rights reserved. reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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12, RUE LINOIS- PARIS XVe

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[JUNE iN Par is]

JUNE

HOT DaTEs 1 3

suNday

tuesday

Atelier Blendologie By grAnt’s

Grant’s is opening an ephemeral space through to the 8th of the month where you can go and learn about the different steps in making whiskey. There are 5 workshops that you can take part in as well as a tasting workshop. 44 rue de Turbigo (3rd)

the reAl super heroes

This is your last chance to discover what superheroes really get up to when they’re not saving the world. The Galerie Sakura is showcasing a photo exhibit, which ends tomorrow, showing the comical side of superheroes. Bercy Village, 50 cour SaintEmilion (12th), 01 71 93 26 90

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[ H O T D AT E S ] Saturday

«Working out» super hero exhibit photo © sacha goldberger; Yves saint laurent, paris, 2008 © antonio guccione; ête foraine aux tuileries - été 2009 © paris tourist office - Marc bertrand

FamiLY Brunch

Brunch Bazar is back. The pop-up brunch event is hosting Surf in the City today and tomorrow in the heart of the Marais in the Carreau du Temple. Music, a pop-up store, concerts and video games are all here as well as of course a restaurant and a playground for the kids. Visit www.brunchbazar.com for the event’s full programme and bookings.

WEdNESday

From Jesus to Yves saint Laurent Fat Galerie is hosting the works of Italian fashion photographer Antonio Guccione, showcasing his series of “skulls” of famous people, including Yves Saint Laurent, Andy Warhol and Salvador Dalí in an exhibit entitled From Jesus to Yves Saint Laurent. 1 rue Dupetit-Thouars (3rd), 01 44 54 00 84

28 Saturday

Fun Fair The fun fair at the Jardin des Tuileries opens today. Take the kids and enjoy the rollercoaster rides, the toboggan ride and the fairy floss.

SuNday

roLand Garros The most important match, men’s finals, takes place today. If you are not lucky enough to have tickets to watch it live why not head to Café Oz and watch it there with a cold beer. 8 blvd Montmartre (9th), 01 47 70 18 52

tHurSday

12 Beer and sports

The FIFA World Cups starts today and if you cannot bear the thought of missing the first kick off, head to Le Frog XVI, where you can enjoy beer, burgers and the game. 110bis ave Kléber (16th), 01 47 27 88 88

Saturday

21 music FestivaL

Free concerts are being held all around the city as part of the annual Fête de la Musique. Visit www. fetedelamusique. culture.fr for the full programme. w w w.wh eretr aveler.c o m 9

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Marx’s signature “risotto”

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[interview]

A Delicious variety of Marxism BY ALExAndER LOBRAnO

all photos courtesy of Mandarin oriental paris

Given that he shares a last name with the father of socialism, it doesn’t come as a surprise when chef Thierry Marx, 51, confesses to having anti-bourgeois instincts, or at least in the kitchen anyway. “I don’t like polite food,” says Marx, who’s head chef at the Michelin two-star haute cuisine restaurant Sur Mesure at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in the heart of Paris and who also runs its second table, Camélia.

n the past, Marx’s aversion to classical French haute cuisine cooking and fascination with molecular cuisine earned him a reputation as the “French Ferran Adria” (the Catalan chef Adria was, of course, the father of avant-garde molecular cooking at his now closed Michelin three-star restaurant El Bulli north of Barcelona). And before coming to Paris, when Marx cooked at the restaurant of the Château Cordeillan-Bages wine estate in the Gironde north of Bordeaux, he alternately dazzled or rankled food-lovers who made the pilgrimage to his table with dishes like a “virtual” sausage made of meat, lentils, melted fat, and bouillon encased in a long balloon the end of which was snipped open over a soup dish at the table. These gastronomic antics are light years, however, from the exquisitely serene and deliciously poetic cooking Marx now does at Sur Mesure. To be sure, one dish on a recent lunch menu was a deconstructed take on onion soup, but it came off as witty rather than revolutionary, and dishes like his signature “risotto”, which is made with bean sprouts rather than rice, has a pleasant iodine accent from oyster

juices, and is luxuriously ground by shavings of black truffle, and his cod in white miso bouillon with ricotta filled ravioli and clementines, is subtle and stunningly refined. Part of his originality, however, is the way in which they so knowingly break with French culinary traditions and the Gallic palate. Marx, a warm and gentle man with a wry sense of humour, has been unflinchingly and unselfconsciously unconventional ever since he signed up as a kitchen apprentice when he was sixteen as a way of avoiding the factory job that seemed his destiny coming from a working-class family in Paris’s rough-and-tumble Belleville neighbourhood. Marx deeply believes that good food is a right and not a privilege, which is why he’s taught cooking classes in a penitentiary and written a free cookbook for Les Restaurants du Coeur, the national association that runs food banks and soup kitchens in most major French cities. He’s also hosted a street-food festival with an haute-cuisine touch in Bordeaux. “Much of what I do is in an attempt to free French cooking from its bourgeois cage,” Marx says. “You don’t w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 11

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[THIERRY MARX]

Turbot served with beetroot and a horseradish emulsion

usually go to a two-star restaurant like sur Mesure because you’re hungry. You go to have an emotional experience, to live a little dream. The problem is that the withering formality of ‘fine dining’ so often destroys the spontaneous pleasure you might find in discovering remarkable new pleasures at the table.” according to Marx, there’s a whole psychological power game that’s played out between the staff and the client in most haute cuisine restaurants, and he finds it both sad and exhausting. This is why Marx has worked hard to create a new service style and a more joyous atmosphere for his restaurant, which has a dramatically minimalist design by interior designer Patrick Jouin. “i call our approach to service, Gentlemen—and women—in the service of gentlemen. There has to be a certain equality between the server and the served for a respectful complicity to be born, and there should never be a feeling of conflict in a dining room, since it destroys the serenity that’s the best backdrop to pleasure,” says Marx. rather than the unwelcome chattiness that this approach often engenders in North american restaurants, the French version of equality between the server and the

served is charming and profoundly gracious. it’s also very much a reflection of Marx’s personal belief in what he calls the “solidarity of the human experience, or the astonishing fact that we’re all sharing each others lives because we’re alive at the same time.” “it also comes from my outsider’s mentality,” says Marx. “My first real experience of French cooking was when i was in the French army, and as a chef, learned French cooking academically from the outside in the way that a foreigner would, because growing up, i knew nothing about it,” Marx explains, adding that in his Jewish-Polish family (his Polish grandfather only won French nationality by fighting for the French army during World War i), people cooked to eat, usually in a hurry, and that the family diet ran to lots of potatoes. Otherwise, in the immigrant heavy quartier where he grew up, he ate North african or asian food rather than boeuf bourguignon or blanquette de veau. This also explains why Marx feels little pride in France’s storied gastronomic reputation and feels no nostalgia for the disappearing bistros of Paris. instead, he remembers bistros as “sad smoky places where people drank too much and escaped their frustrations by playing pinball machines.”

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The sweet bento box

“Being the outsider also gives you a huge clarity and power, since you question everything,” says Marx. “And of course tradition is there to inspire innovation,” adds the chef, who has a deep reverence and fascination with the Japanese kitchen (a judo-master, Marx has spent long periods of time in Japan). “The Japanese have such a respect for the natural tastes of food, and their aesthetics are magnificent. They also have a great esteem for humility as a virtue, and this informs the experience of going to a restaurant in Japan, because there’s such a beautiful reciprocity of respect.” Marx also believes that the guiding principles of Japanese cooking—“pleasure, well-being and health,” which he’s adopted as the cardinal points of his own kitchen, will increasingly inform French cooking in the 21st century. “I don’t really believe so much in the idea of national kitchens anymore, because cooking has become so global. Today it’s more about an individual cook’s style than where he or she was born, and the beginning of this century is really interesting in the kitchen because of the new techniques that have been invented—encapsulation, cooking at very low temperatures, thermic shock. These are

new tools for chefs at the same time that the eternal skills, like how to cut something perfectly, are more important than ever.” Marx says that nothing stimulates his creativity more than a visit to the markets of Paris—his favourites include the Marché d’Aligre and the Marché des Enfants Rouges, and that he loves hanging up his apron and going out for a good meal every once in a while. “It’s moving for me to discover another chef’s cooking,” he says. If the last meal that really astonished him was at Eleven Madison in New York City, in Paris, he says he loves the cooking of Pierre Gagnaire, admires young chef Akrame Benallal, who just won his first Michelin star at his restaurant Akrame, and that his local is Le Cherche Midi, an Italian restaurant not far from the Left Bank apartment he shares with his girlfriend, an art gallery owner. And do these very different restaurants have anything in common? Marx grins and answers immediately: “Yes, their highly developed sense of hospitality works to help people relax so that they can focus on their food. And the greatest food is always cooked and served with love.” w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 13

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[JUNE IN PAR IS]

Lunch in front of the Eiffel Tower at Monsieur Bleu

FABULOUS VIEW FABULOUS FARE BY SANDRA ISKANDER 14 W H E R E PA R I S I J U N E 2014

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Admire the City of Light from up high at Le Jules Verne Indulge in carefully prepared desserts at the Restaurant du Palais Royal

MONSIEUR BLEU PHOTO © ADRIEN DIRAND; LES OMBRES PHOTO ©DONALD VAN DER PUTTEN; JULES VERNE PHOTO © PIERRE MONETTA; PALAIS ROYAL RESTAURANT PHOTO © FRANCESCA MANTOVANI

Dine on contemporary French cuisine at Maison Blanche

hen in Paris it is easy to feel on top of the world. The culture, the fashion, the food, everything feels like a moment in heaven. And when the sun is out and the sky is blue, dining alfresco with a stunning view of the French capital, you really do begin to feel like you are in a magical place. Finding that perfect table that can offer you fine fare without compromising a spectacular view and vice versa isn’t always an easy feat so here at Where we have done the ground work for you so all you have to do is simply read, reserve and enjoy. In the chic 16th arrondissement, overlooking the Seine is Monsieur Bleu, the contemporary restaurant and bar found in the Palais de Tokyo. With a spacious outdoor dining area, this table offers a magnificent view of the Eiffel Tower and contemporary French cuisine. Open daily, for lunch and dinner, this is the perfect reservation to make for a chic lunch before taking in an exhibit at the Palais de Tokyo or the neighbouring Modern Art Museum, or perhaps a convivial dinner where you can enjoy great cocktails, fun music and a stunning view. Nestled in the heart of the French capital, overlooking the idyllic Palais Royal garden is the Restaurant du Palais Royal. The traditional French restaurant offers a tranquil dining area underneath the historic arches of the Palais Royal giving you a perfect view of the popular gardens and its quaint fountain. An ideal table

Look onto Palais de Chaillot as you lunch at Les Ombres

for lunch during a shopping spree in the highend boutiques found under the arches circling the garden. Maison Blanche remains as one of Paris’s most popular tables and it is not very difficult to see why. Located just above the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées and in the heart of the chic “Golden Triangle”, the restaurant, which serves contemporary French cuisine, boasts a terrace that overlooks the über-fashionable Avenue Montaigne and the splendid Eiffel Tower. And every Saturday from midnight the restaurant, along with the terrace, transforms into the White Room and hosts international DJs and live performances, creating the perfect rooftop club to party the night away. Musée du Quai Branly is an impressive museum designed by Jean Nouvel and which showcases indigenous art and offers an insight into cultures and civilisations from Oceania, Asia, Africa and the Americas. It is also where you can discover Les Ombres restaurant, perched on the museum’s rooftop, boasting a terrace that gives you a rare view of the City of Light, Les Ombres invites you to sit in the shadows of the Eiffel Tower, take in Palais de Chaillot and dine on contemporary international cuisine. 125 metres high and hidden in the city’s most iconic tower is Le Jules Verne restaurant. The Alain Ducasse restaurant is a unique experience offering you haute cuisine and a spectacular view of the capital, a table where you can sample culinary heritage with a contemporary flair in an elegant and modern setting. The

menu at the Michelin-starred restaurant is a gastronomical delight, featuring a warm green asparagus salad served with a delicate truffled mousseline, a Blanquette-style breast of veal served with seasonal vegetables and for dessert the “Tower Nut”, a crunchy praline and chocolate treat. A much sought-after table, Le Jules Verne is an ideal restaurant to sample one of the world’s best chef’s talents while taking in the most beautiful city in the world.

ADDRESS BOOK MONSIEUR BLEU 20 ave de New York (16th), 01 47 20 90 47 RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROYAL 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01 40 20 00 27 MAISON BLANCHE 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 47 23 55 99 LES OMBRES 27 quai Branly (7th), 01 47 53 68 00 LE JULES VERNE Avenue Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 45 55 61 44 w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 15

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W h e R e pa R i s

The Guide ShOPPiNG BY sa N D r a is K a N D Er

TO TOMMY FROM ZOOEY Quirky american actress Zooey Deschanel has created a capsule collection for fashion house Tommy Hilfiger. The collection features 16 dresses with 6 of the designs available only at the brand’s Champs-Elysées boutique. The To Tommy From Zooey collection is a perfect mixture of the Tommy girl and Zooey’s own personal style. The red, white and blue colour palette of Tommy makes up the capsule collection and is brought to life with retro-inspired dresses and nautical detailing that Zooey loves. a drop-waist box pleat dress with flap pockets, a sail-print shift dress with shoulder button detailing and a striped bubble print dress with navy and red polka dots make up part of the collection. 65 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 61 54 55 16 W H E R E Pa r i s i J U N E 2014

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[SHOPPING]

FULL HOUSE Men’s ready-to-wear brand JAQK has just opened its second boutique in the fashion capital. Inspired by card games, especially poker, the brand’s collection of clothes fit for suave gentlemen features shirts, polo shirts and jackets. Easily worn in the office as well as around a roulette table, JAQK’s collection is colourful and comfortable and is showcased in the boutique surrounded by gaming tables. 62 rue Caumartin (9th), 01 53 16 43 45

JONATHAN ADLER IN PARIS

Polyèdre Home has welcomed a Jonathan Adler pop-up store within its home décor boutique, showcasing the American designer’s talent in everything design. The potter-cum-home furnishings designer, who makes contemporary pieces influenced by both pop culture and travel, will have a selection of pieces on sale at the pop-up store until the end of the month. Among the great finds are a marble table with a cylindershaped brushed brass base and this gold porcelain candle. 27 rue de Tournon (6th), 01 46 34 74 81

ROLAND GARROS BY CHANTAL THOMASS Chantal Thomass is known for her sexy lingerie and in celebration of the French Open she is taking her creations to the courts with a limited edition collection for Roland Garros. The capsule collection features tennis ensembles in the designer’s favourite hues, pink, black and white, and includes a tennis dress with a soft feminine touch with a sweet floppy bow as well as a black pleated skirt that could easily be worn off the courts. The collection also features a chic black and white wide-brimmed hat and even a flirty, tennis-themed umbrella to keep you shaded in the sun. The collection is available exclusively at the Roland-Garros boutique during the tournament. 2 ave Gordon Bennett (16th), 01 47 43 51 91

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W H E R E PA R I S

HOLIDAY READY Tread the streets of the capital in these leather Marc O’Polo flipflops before taking them south to Saint Tropez! 64 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 43 29 09 18

COLOUR BLOCK Brighten up your summer with this pretty pink Stampa bag from Carolina Herrera’s Casati collection. 10 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 58 62 41 03

FOR HER

VERY VALENTINO

A GRECIAN LOOK Feel like a Greek goddess in this Fragonard dress. 203 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 40 17 90 41

Class up any look with these red and gold sunglasses from Valentino. 27 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 42 66 95 94

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[SHOPPING]

STEP INTO SUMMER Sport these red, white and blue espadrilles with rubber soles from Souts and comfortably step into the warmer months. Available at Le Bon Marché

GREEN WITH ENVY Watch the Roland Garros finals with these crocodile-hued Lacoste sunglasses. 93-95 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 47 23 39 26

FOR HIM

WEAR PARIS Start working on your tan early this summer with these Orlebar Brown shorts featuring the famous monuments of Paris, designed by artist Tommy Penton. Available exclusively at Le Bon Marché

DASHING DENIM Don’t get left behind in the fashion stakes and go Western with this Seidensticker denim shirt. 1 place Michel Debré (6th), 01 53 63 04 25

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Church’s❁ Paule Ka❁

RUE D

❁Goyard ❁Dodo ❁Baldini ❁Moynat

S RIN

MADELEINE

U ATH

Wempe

RUE SAINT-HO NORÉ

SHOP STOP

RUE

Les Dandys ❁ IER U PASQ

M DES

❁

❁ Dubail

14 rue d’Alger (corner rue Saint-Honoré) - Paris 1st Tel: 01 55 04 85 50 www.talbotrunhof.com

SHOP STOP

❁

Burberry

Chanel Dior

❁ ❁Vertu

❁Chanel ❁ Audemars

RUE DU MONT -THABOR

RUE DE RIVOLI

TALBOT RUNHOF

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Crockett

&Jones

Piguet ❁ ❁ Hedgren ❁ Roberto ❁ RUE CAM BON ❁ Cavalli ❁ Tom Ford Messika❁ Hervé Léger ❁Jimmy Choo Morabito❁ ❁ Hugo Boss Wolford❁ ❁Brooks Brothers ❁Armani Chloé❁ Dior ❁ 2 DsQuared ❁ ❁ Miki House Tumi❁ ❁Omega Arije ❁de Grisogono J.M. ❁ Wine ❁ ❁ by One RUE C Weston Chopard ASTIG LIONE ❁ ❁ Lacoste PLACE VENDÔME ❁ Guerlain

JARDIN DES TUILERIES

Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

❁

RUE ANJOU ❁Saint Laurent ❁Boucheron ❁Givenchy ❁Hermès

❁Lanvin ❁Bottega Veneta ❁Loro Piana ❁Prada Cerruti ❁Pinko 1881 ❁ Gucci ❁ ❁ ❁

❁ Milliaud ❁ ❁ Royal Poiray Quartz Michael Kors ❁ Escada ❁ Valentino ❁ RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN Césaire ❁ Hublot ❁ Chronopassion ❁ Maje❁

16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

RUE ROYALE

CONCORDE

The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

The German luxery brand has been satisfying female customers worldwide for over 20 years with their elegant, exquisite evening, cocktail and wedding dresses, as well as modern and original cuts, combined with high quality fabric and an exceptional attention to details. Well presented in their new gallery inspired Parisian boutique

Lalique

❁ ❁

WEMPE

ti h ❁❁ rlu it ni Be l Smsto u e Pa A.T

Christofle

ROYALE

Rowena Forrest ❁ Junlon❁

❁ Capelstore

RUE

GALERIE

Lanvin❁

Janssens & Janssens

e a ❁D ison ns F i ❁Adier abre cn Lud ❁ S e S ot t Ca tell udi rtn a M o ey c

SHOP STOP

RUE DE SURÈNE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

Roger Vivier❁ Valentino❁ Glashütte Original ❁ Corneliani ❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁ RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] F A U B O U R G S A I N T- H O N O R É

Puiforcat

VA RD

Walter Steiger❁ MATIGNON

Steiger

❁

BO UL E

R ❁ UE D E

MA L

❁ Emanuel Berg

✴Bristol

Azzaro❁ Vhernier ❁ F.P. Journe ❁

VHERNIER

Pierre Cardin

Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.

❁

63, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: 01 40 17 93 15 - paris@vhernier.fr www.vhernier.com

ÉLYSÉE

ES RB HE ES AL M VD BL ON

SHOP STOP

IGN RU EV

ANN

ES CIN PU CA

CA PU

S DE

VD BL

❁ Zwilling

M HAUSS VARD

Hedgren

RUE CAM ❁ BON ❁ Tom Ford ❁ Hervé ❁Jimmy Choo Léger ❁Hugo Boss ❁Brooks Brothers ❁Armani ❁Dior ❁Miki House ❁Omega ❁de Grisogono Wine by One ❁

❁

RUE C ASTIG LIONE

❁

❁ Durance

E EIN EL AD M

Roberto ❁ Cavalli Messika❁ Morabito❁ Wolford❁ Chloé ❁ DsQuared2❁ Maria Luisa ❁ Tumi❁ J.M. ❁ Arije Weston

❁

Swarovski

❁ Bcbgmaxazria

LA DE

RUE SAINT-HO NOR

Chanel

❁ Audemars ❁ Piguet

SAIN T

RUE DANIELLE

RUE

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RUE DU MONT -THABOR

22 W H E R E Pa r i s i J U N E 2014

RUE DE RIVOLI

14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde - Paris 8th Tel: 01 44 94 01 74 www.crockettandjones.com

❁ Longchamp ❁Tara Jarmon

Chronopassion ❁ Maje❁

RUE TRONCHET ❁ ❁ Eres JB Guanti ❁

BOULE

Césaire ❁ Hublot ❁

VD BL

RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN

❁

Marella

Kenzo❁

CIN E

❁

INS

❁

MADELEINE

Gucci Chanel Dior ❁ ❁Vertu ❁ Ralph Wempe Lauren ❁ Lancaster ❁ Alberta Ferretti

HUR

❁

❁ Oliver Grant ❁ Baccarat

MAT

RUE ROYALE

Les Crockett Dandys ❁ UIER &Jones ❁ RUE PASQ ❁ Burberry

❁Lanvin ❁Bottega Veneta ❁Loro Piana ❁Prada Cerruti ❁Pinko 1881 ❁ ❁❁ ❁

Milliaud Royal Poiray Quartz Michael Kors ❁ Escada ❁ CONCORDE Valentino ❁

JOU

D’AN

Janssens & Janssens

❁Boucheron ❁Givenchy ❁Hermès

ti❁ h❁ rlu it i❁ Be l Sm ston u e Pa .T gon A ur t He oin ❁ np ud Bo rda e ❁ a u rn liq Be La

❁❁

❁ Capelstore

DES

❁

Lanvin

RUE ANJOU

❁Saint Laurent

RUE

F Le aur Pa é Ch ge an el

RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS

❁Sotheby’s ❁Milady ❁Chopard ❁Sonia Rykiel ❁Poiray ❁Christian Louboutin ❁Etro ❁Pomellato ❁Barbara Bui

❁Bally ❁Blumarine ❁Burberry ❁Brunello Cucinelli ❁Leonard ❁Salvatore Ferragamo ❁

Roger Vivier❁ Heurgon❁ Glashütte Original❁ Corneliani❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁

3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

CROCKETT & JONES

RUE

RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

Apostrophe❁

A reference for more than 130 years among the amateurs of beautiful Goodyear-welted shoes, the English luxury brand for men perpetuates the artistic quality and custom-made service.

E RU

RUE DE SURÈNE

SHOP STOP

Frette❁

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

❁ ❁ Caron Montagut

RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

RÈ

CÉ BA

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] C H A M P S - É LY S É E S - M O N T A I G N E

ARC DE TRIOMPHE

AVENUE KLÉBER

ED AV

IÉN

CHARLES DE GAULLE - ÉTOILE

EN AV

’IÉNA

AR C M AV EN UE

❁Milady GEORGE V

U EA

Louis Vuitton❁

IER

Brioni❁

-SE Leonard❁ RBIE ❁

Zegna Christofle ❁

EO E G❁ U N Arije

Creed

Cartier

R YO

❁ RUE D

Duret Paris E LA

❁ Balenciaga

❁ By Marie & Gas Bijoux ALMA MARCEAU

Valentino

ÉM

MAR

OIL

BEU

Paule Ka❁ Sicis ❁

Guy Laroche❁ Corneliani ❁ Diane Von Furstenberg ❁

Charles Jourdan❁ Anne Fontaine

A ❁ VEN ❁ ❁ UE Armani ❁ MON MaxMara ❁ Prada ❁ Nina T ❁ Bottega Veneta ❁ AIG Ricci Armani ❁ NE ❁ Louis Vuitton

SHOP STOP

Paul & Joe

IS 1 ER

W NE

BERETTA GALLERY

❁

Arije ❁

❁

Dubail ❁Ulysse Nardin

Tara Jarmon❁ ❁Givenchy ❁Chaumet Kusmi Tea ❁ RU❁Beretta EP IE Ann Tuil ❁ RR

❁ Tom Ford CHAR RO ❁ Zilli ❁Façonnable N Kiton ❁Smalto ❁ ❁ RUE Wolford MA ❁Balmain Berluti RBE❁ UF ❁ Courrèges Zadig & Voltaire ❁ Wine by One ❁

NÇO

E AV RUE

❁ ❁ Bvlgari

FRA

UE EN AV

-1 ER -DE

RUE

E RC

Kenzo ❁ Armani JP Gaultier Lacoste ❁ Sony❁ ❁ Hermès❁ ❁ Omega ❁ Eric Bompard ❁

Céline

❁

NAN

RUE

IG MAR

❁J.M. Weston

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

EN AV

BOC CAD OR

SHOP STOP

AV E

EW ASH

❁

GTO Swatch N ❁ Tag Heuer

❁ Marionnaud Paris RU

❁ Zara RRI ❁Morgan ❁M.A.C. ❁Levi’s ❁ Tissot ❁Sephora ❁Guerlain ❁Mauboussin ❁Tiffany RU

❁ Louis

ÉT

Pion

SÉ

❁Versace Dior ❁ ❁Salvatore Ferragamo Caron❁ ❁ Quicksilver ❁ ❁ Akris Dinh van❁ Givenchy ❁ Adidas ❁Chanel ❁Fendi ❁ Banana Republic Zadig ❁ Chanel❁ ❁Saint Laurent Chloé❁❁ & Voltaire Loewe ❁ Barbara Bui ❁❁ ❁ ❁❁ Ralph Lauren ❁Gucci ❁ Weleda Dolce&Gabbana T L Blumarine VE Les Champs d’Or SE S.T.Dupont O ❁ O Elie Saab .R LIN

EF AV

K AN

FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT

RT 1 S ALBE COUR

Ann Tuil is a multi-brand boutique carrying exceptional accessories ranging from shoes to bags and watches (Michael Kors, Longchamp, Kenzo, Marc By Marc Jacobs, Repetto, Moschino, UGG, ASH...). Ann Tuil has the privilege of offering you a 10% discount upon presentation of this magazine for items that you purchase (without red dot). Receive a 12% tax refund immediately. Open sunday.

❁ Swarovski ❁Bang & Olufsen ❁ GrandOptical

Hugo Boss❁

C AR

ANN TUIL

Lancel❁ Dinh Van❁

RUE BALZAC

76 ave des Champs Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 56 18 53 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com

57 rue Pierre Charron - Paris 8th Tel: 01 56 88 59 59 www.berettagallery.com

ND LA

TISSOT BOUTIQUE The first European Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch collection available in Paris with more than 500 references from their traditional watch collection such as the Le Locle Automatic to the most innovative watches with the T-Touch Expert.

Beautifully tailored sport and casual wear from the legendary family-owned, Italian house specialised in the world of nature and hunting are found in this gallery boutique. High quality, refined accessories, stylish and sturdy shoes and boots and gear for the great outdoors are hallmarks of the brand.

❁Cartier ❁Montblanc

EA U

AVENUE D

RI EF

’ ED

63 ave des Champs-Elysées - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 25 67 31 www.anntuil.com

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T I S S OT L U X U RY AU TO M AT I C . P OW E R M AT I C 8 0 M OV E M E N T, O F F I C I A L LY C H R O N O M E T E R - C E R T I F I E D BY T H E C O S C (CONTRÔLE OFFICIEL SUISSE DES CHRONOMÈTRES), O F F E R I N G U P TO 8 0 HOU RS O F P OW E R R E S E RV E W IT H A 3 16 L STA I N L E S S ST E E L C AS E . I N N OVATO RS BY T R A D I T I O N .

T ISSOT.CH B O U T I Q U E S T I S S OT 76 , AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S - E LY S É E S – 7 5 0 0 8 PA R I S G A L E R I E D E S A R C A D E S , AV E N U E D E S C H A M P S - E LY S É E S – 7 5 0 0 8 PA R I S C E N T R E C O M M E R C I A L L E S 4 T E M P S, N I V E AU 2 – 9 2 0 9 2 PA R I S L A D É F E N S E

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WHERE LUXURY [SHOPPING] VENDÔME

SHOP STOP

GARE SAINT-LAZARE

❁

Mephisto

❁ L’Occitane ❁ Swarovski

COUR DU HAVRE

SAINT-LAZARE

RUE DU HA VRE

PASSAGE DU HAVRE

Printemps Homme

❁ ❁Citadium

Printemps Beauté-Maison

BUCHERER PARIS

❁

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

RUE D

Guerlain ❁

RC L’A

HAVRE CAUMARTIN ❁

Lafayette

Laf

EV AR

aye

tte

❁ Galeries

AU S

Lafayette

iso

AU RO Y

OT D

IGN

CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN LAF LAFAYETTE Sephora❁

Image

Fragonard ❁ OPÉRA

RUE

CAU

MAR TIN

❁ A Mon IBE

O N CH TR RU E

R BE AU

SHOP STOP

❁ Galeries

E RU

12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: 01 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

❁

E PRO VENC

Printemps Mode

Golfino ❁

❁

❁Maje

L’Occitane

Bucherer Tag Heuer ❁❁ ❁ Basler

Boggi

OPÉRA Lancel

❁

❁ ❁ IKKS

A. Lange & Söhne

❁

CHRISTOFLE

❁

Baccarat Christofle IWC ❁ ❁ Diesel Cartier Repetto ❁ Mellerio ❁ Montblanc X❁Dinh van I ❁ Panerai Cave Bernard ❁ PA❁Korloff Wine ❁ Van Cleef ❁ Magrez ❁ LA❁Folli Follie by One & Arpels ❁ E ❁Breitling Hugo❁ De Fursac ❁ Louis Vuitton ❁ E D❁Jaquet Droz Boss Cartier U❁ Harry Winston R❁ Dubail Daum ❁ ❁ ❁Vacheron Constantin ❁ Bvlgari ❁ Loding ❁ ❁Charvet ❁ Gas Bijoux ❁Boucheron ES

PU CA

This silversmith, founded in 1830, is known for top quality sterling and plate. The house’s art and craft magic is worked into the table arts, jewellery and an array of delightful items that make perfect gifts.

E CIN

Jimmy Choo Hugo Boss Brooks Brothers Armani Dior Miki House Omega

9 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 55 27 99 13 www.christofle.com

SHOP STOP

RÉ

HO T-

ILL ET

JU 29 ED U

NO VA

IÈ U SO

CA SA

SA E

PYRAMIDES

R PY

NTEUIL

G D’ AL E

IEL

RUE D’ARGE

Talbot Runhof

DA N

LA DE E

RÉ

Honoré ❁ Saint ❁ Jo Malone ❁ Bonpoint Colette❁ Chantal Thomass❁ Pataugas ❁ ❁ Mulberry

❁

O -H NT

26-28 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 42 97 58 80 44 rue Etienne Marcel - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 45 08 49 46 8 avenue George V - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

I SA

Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating jewellery for over 40 years, handmade and artisan, crafted in its Marseilles atelier, and it is now an internationally recognised fashion accessories house.

❁

L IG ❁E.Goyard ST A C R ❁Dodo UE DE Church’s❁ E DU U R M Paule Ka❁ ON TTH Arije AB Miu Miu OR ❁

MARCHÉ ST-HONORÉ

❁

Mikimoto Dior

Gallery

TRO

Wille

AVENUE DE L’OPÉRA

❁ ❁ ❁ Rolex ❁ ❁ ❁Van Cleef & Arpels ❁ ❁ DsQuared ❁ ❁Blancpain ❁❁ MisterChrono Jaeger❁ ❁ LeCoultre PLACE ❁Chanel Kusmi Tumi ❁ VENDÔME Kusmi ❁Piaget Chopard RU Tea Tea J.M. ❁ ❁Chaumet E ❁ ❁ Weston ❁Buccellati ❁Hublot ❁Patek Philippe PLACE ❁Opera❁ ❁ Frey DU

GAS BIJOUX

U NSD TI

❁

RRU UE E LO SUA ISIN -LT E-A -GU RGA

❁

Hackett Lacoste Omega

BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES

❁Mephisto

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SHOP STOP

W H E R E L U X U R Y [ S H O P P I N G ] S A I N T- G E R M A I N

RER

MUSÉE D’ORSAY ED

QU AI

ILL

GAB&JO French multi-brand boutique Gab & Jo is a onestop shop for accessories and fun home décor objects. The colourful boutique showcases the best France has to offer with every item carefully selected by the owners. A perfect address if you are looking for original souvenirs.

❁

Ofée . ❁

ILL

UIL

Poltrona Frau ❁ Silvera

Hartwood ❁

❁

Maje ❁

NTS

Deyrolle ❁

SAI

The Kooples ❁ Bowen ❁

EJ AC O

ES RUE DU BAC

Elsa ❁ Vanier

❁ Cassina

Gab&Jo

NAPART

RUE BO

RUE BONAPARTE

RUE MÉZIÈRES

RUE MADAME

❁ Spa L’Occitane

DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

DOT-DROPS®

E-

LE EL

RUE D E LA C

UD RA GO

HAISE

❁

❁❁

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 www.mydotdrops.com

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RUE PRINCESSE

Walter Steiger

Louboutin

SHOP STOP

E L’ Louis ❁ ABB Vuitton ❁ Etro AYE ❁ ❁ Brunello Ralph Lauren Tag Cucinelli Heuer ❁ Burberry GERMAIN T-GERMAIN SAINT-GERMAIN SAINTSAIN ❁ Paul Smith Rodika Armani ❁ Barbara DES-PRÉS DES-PRÉ Paul & Joe Zanian ❁ ❁Bui ❁ ❁ Stefanel❁ ❁ Sergio Rossi ❁ ❁ Cartier Ventilo L.K. ❁ Céline ❁ Swarovski Bennett ❁ Lancel Ferragamo ❁ Rolex❁ Carven ❁ ❁ Texier Crockett & Jones ❁ ❁ Montblanc Kenzo❁ Sonia Alexis Mabille ❁ ❁ J.M. Weston Rykiel Ten Clothes ❁ L’Ibis Rouge ❁ Saint Laurent ❁ UR ❁ U FO Sportmax ❁ Marina Eskandar ED ❁ U Maje R ❁ ❁ Dot-Drops ❁ Alain Mikli ❁ Prada Tod’s Rinaldi❁ Tru ❁ ❁ Trussardi Shang Xia M.A.C.❁ Durance ❁ Repetto ❁ Omega ❁ ❁ S Pataugas ❁ Wolford Implicite E American ÈVR Berluti ❁ ❁ S ❁ E D Vintage ❁ NE Longchamp ❁ JB Guanti ❁ E RUE DE BABYLO RU Hour ❁ ❁ ❁ Agnès b LPICE ❁Hermès Passion Robert ST-SU ❁ ❁ SÈVRES-BABYLONE Clergerie ❁ LeTéo&Blet Zadig ✴Le Lutetia Le Bon S Catherine E & Voltaire Marché R ❁ Memmi V Saint È ❁ S Laurent E

ASPAIL

30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com

RU ❁ EJ AC O

BO ❁ John Lobb Bang UL Francis Klein ❁ Edward B EV ❁ & Olufsen ❁ Green AR Zadig & Voltaire D Armani❁ ❁ Fabrice ❁ Karl Lagerfeld Casa SA ❁ INT ❁ Cinna -GE ❁ Vignes Mauboussin Inedit RM ❁ Joaillier ❁ AIN Welton R U E Façonnable ❁ D ❁ Christian

R VARD

RUE DU BAC

BOULE

FRANCIS KLEIN

This family-run brand offers hand-made, out of sight glasses and accessories. All made in France, their collections cater to all looks, offering glamorous and original frames allowing you to wear a piece of Paris every day. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

Ke nz o❁ Pa ul Sm i l’A th ❁ Pa rtisa rfu n me ur ❁

Debauve & Gallais ❁

RUE DES CANETTES

SHOP STOP

-PÈ

BEA UN

L’U

VO LTA I

Renaissance

RUE

BAC

RUE

28 rue Jacob - Paris 6th Tel: 09 84 53 58 43

RES

RENNES

GIR AU V E

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[shopping]

WATChEs

Fly Me to the Moon When Apollo 11 made its historic landing on the moon 45 years ago, Omega was part of the adventure. The Swiss brand is commemorating the event with the launch of the Omega Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary Limited Edition, celebrating its link to the iconic chronograph that took part in the landing. Enhanced with Omega’s trademarked Sedna gold hands, indexes and a matching bezel, the watch, which was presented at Baselworld this year, features a brown-coated nylon fabric strap inspired by the NATO straps of the timepieces that have been issued to military personnel since the 1950s. Its striking matt black ceramic ring has a tachymeter scale and its manual-winding chronograph movement is the same one that was worn on the moon. The timepiece has been produced in an edition limited to 1,969 pieces, a reference to the year of the moon landing. – P.V. 362-364 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 35 03 60

DAZZLING i jeweLLery BOUCHERON The first of the great contemporary jewellers to open a boutique on the Place Vendôme, Boucheron has embodied excellence in jewellery, high jewellery and watch making for more than 150 years. Each collection draws from the history and the values of the Maison, celebrating a modern prowess that is constantly reinvented. Each watch and jewellery creation sublimates their exceptional stones with the precious material of which they are sculpted. Each creation captures light and crystallizes an emotion. 26 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra CARTIER Famous for precious gems and triple-band gold rings. Collections include the romantically exquisite Love collection. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.18.23.00. Mº Opéra DE BEERS Diamonds have mesmerised famous figures in history since the dawn of time. No one knows diamonds like South African specialist De Beers. Cut for beauty and crafted by artisans, De Beers offers an incredible choice of first-rate diamonds coveted by the greatest jewellery connoisseurs. De Beers at Printemps, Printemps du Luxe, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.49.43. Mº Havre Caumartin DE GRISOGONO In an entrancing Baroque atmosphere, discover the superbly set myriad stones, fine craftsmanship and black diamond jewellery that are the hallmarks of this luxury jeweller and watchmaker. The establishment releases a boutique collection and unique pieces each year and has recently launched a line of prestigious leather goods. 358 bis rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. Mº Tuileries

DIOR JOAILLERIE Dior’s haute joaillerie line is designed by Victoire de Castellane, who combines colourful stones and precious metals in surprising and playful ways. 8 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.30.84. Mº Madeleine FREYWILLE Fine enamel, gold and colourful, bold designs are the hallmarks of this Austrian house featuring fine jewellery, watches and writing instruments. The designs of the distinctive pieces are inspired by famous artists and historical art motifs. 167 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.47.47. Mº Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre Rings from Wempe

HARRY WINSTON Rare, innovative and exceptional pieces are among the offerings from the legendary house of jewellery specialised in fine diamonds. Founded in New York in 1932, the house, synonymous with glamour, is the embodiment of high jewellery and high watch making. 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra MONTBLANC The timeless, elegant brand now has a superb flagship boutique in the heart of the luxury jewellery district. Unique pieces of prestige, limited editions, rare and precious jewellery and watches and the celebrated accessories can all be found here in this refined store that stretches out over two floors. 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.48.52. Mº Opéra PIAGET You find beautiful timepieces and superb jewellery here from the luxury Swiss brand that has been fashioning watches since 1874. The innovative jewellery collections include the colourful, beautifully sculpted cocktailinspired rings featuring, for example, blue topaz or pink tourmaline. 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries TIFFANY & CO The renowned jeweller has a three-story boutique with a tempting collection of classically simple jewellery and gift items. 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. Mº Madeleine WEMPE High-end German jeweller in business since 1878, is known for stylish watches and chronometers, but also carries a wide range of fine jewellery. 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

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ADVERTORIAL

TAILORED LUXURY BY

EMANUEL BERG

The world of the luxury shirt has found its home at 140 Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ Working with William Figaret, the son of Alain Figaret, the founder of the French luxury shirt-maker, the house of Emanuel Berg aims to offer its clients the best expertise in shirt tailoring. In the spacious and elegantly designed new boutique both ladies and gentlemen will find a plethora of shirts to choose from, whether off-the-rack or bespoke, the perfect shirt awaits here. Clients can choose from a selection of 1000 different fabrics, 60 different collar styles and 35 different cuffs to create their bespoke shirt. Tailored from mostly Italian fabrics the shirts are put together in Europe and are delivered within a fortnight. The family-run fashion house also offers elegant accessories complementing the tailored shirts, including chic cufflinks, socks

and beautiful headscarves for the ladies. Monograms in different fonts and colours can also be subtly embroidered into the shirts, adding an even more personalised touch to the shirts. With a large foreign clientele, Emanuel Berg understand the importance of impeccable service and with that in mind delivery of bespoke shirts can be organised anywhere in the world, bringing luxury service to your doorstep.

140 rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ (8th), 01 53 75 48 01 www.emanuelberg.com Emanuel Berg will offer Where readers a 20% discount on the total sale of 5 tailor-made shirts or more. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 29

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

ACCESSORIES CRYS TA L ISED W RI T IN G

Vintage & design chanel - dior - lacroix YSl - lanvin

l’ibiS rouge This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery. You will also find a fine selection of vintage alligator bags and contemporary jewellery pieces from French and foreign designers.

The romance of handwriting a letter comes alive with the limited edition Caran d’Ache Lalique pen collection. The collection features fountain and ball pens that combine the savoir-faire of the two luxury houses, one of crystals and the other of handwriting tools. The collection was created with precious elements, crystal, ceramic, gold and diamonds, and the result is a luxurious line of pens, almost seducing you to perfect your penmanship and giving you a luxurious need to have one of the crystal or diamond pens opulently sitting on your desk or in your pocket. The limited edition collection is available exclusively at Caran d’Ache and Lalique boutiques

MORE I ACCESSORIES CESAIRE Sumptuous, luxurious handbags by designer Stéphanie Césaire. These couture bags, inspired and timeless are fashioned from the finest leathers by master craftsmen. www. stephaniecesaire.com. 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Fabulous shoes with the coveted red sole, frequently seen adorning celebrity feet on the red carpet. The designer now designs shoes for men as well as a small collection of bags. 38 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.42.22.33.07. M° Rue du Bac CORTO MOLTEDO Tucked within the beautiful arcades of Palais Royal is this boutique bursting with music and meticulously designed bags. Made from the finest of Italian leather, the stunning collection of evening and daytime bags tells the tale of rock and royalty. Jardins du Palais Royal, 146-148 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.97.91. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

35 Blvd Raspail - Paris 7th M° Sevres babylone Tel: 01 45 48 98 21 ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm

CROCKETT & JONES A reference for more than 130 years among the amateurs of beautiful Goodyear-welted shoes, the English luxury brand for men perpetuates the artistic quality and custom-made service. 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine

LALIQUE This boutique sparkles with sculptural crystal vases, tableware, dramatic jewellery and accessories. 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine ROBERT CLERGERIE Innovative and elegant ladies shoes, chic designs and French-made, with the talented Roland Mouret at the helm as Creative Director. 5 rue du Cherche Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes SWAROVSKI Enter into the magical world of the specialist in cut crystal in every hue crafted into dreamy, extravagant jewellery and evening bags. Today the house is the world leader for precision cutting of crystals and precious stones. The house has historically collaborated with leading designers like Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld and today works with both established and emerging artists. 146 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.13.80. M° George V WALTER STEIGER This family-owned luxury establishment crafts shoe collections for men and women. Innovation and high quality materials are hallmarks of the house, which also has a fine line of handbags. 83 Faubourg du Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.65.08. M° Miromesnil

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VINTAGE

PARIS FLEA MARKET Also known as the Puces de Saint-Ouen or Clignancourt from its location north of Montmartre, this is the city’s (some claim the world’s) largest and most famous flea market, offering everything from used books and leather jackets to precious antique jewellery and Louis XVI furniture, in a series of different markets. Don’t be put off by the rows of tacky stands under the overpass; the real Flea Market lies beyond them. Sat-Mon 9:30 am-6:30pm. www.parispuces.com 142 rue des Rosiers, St-Ouen (10-minute walk from Porte de Clignancourt) GABRIELLE GEPPERT This boutique carries the latest fashion trends as well as fine vintage pieces. The shop is filled with accessories, jewellery and designer clothes that are all selected with great care. www.gabriellegeppert.com Jardins du Palais Royal, 31 & 34 Galerie Montpensier (1st), 01.42.61.53.52. Mº Pyramides DIDIER LUDOT A remarkable selection of vintage clothing and accessories, including Chanel, Dior and Hermès. 20 & 24 galerie Montpensier (1st),

Habitat 1964 L’espace Vintage

01.42.96.06.56; A second shop specialises in the little black dress, with modern reproductions of designer classics located at 125 galerie de Valois, Jardin du Palais Royal (1st), 01.40.15.01.04. M° Palais Royal HABITAT 1964 L’ESPACE VINTAGE Behind colourfully graffitied gates in the Puces de Saint-Ouen, you will find vintage pieces

from Habitat’s past collection, adding a bit of pop to other previously loved pieces found around the market. 77 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen 93400 LES BOUQUINISTES Aligning the banks of the River Seine are the bouquinistes, second-hand bookstalls where you can find previously loved books as well as rare magazine copies.

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CHIC CENTRES The recently opened Beaugrenelle centre is found in the heart of the city not too far from the Eiffel Tower, overlooking the Seine. Paris’s largest Marks & Spencer store is here along with all you favourite high street brands including Zara, H&M and Esprit. The centre also boasts a cinema complex, a nail bar and great restaurants and cafes including the chic Bermuda Onion, which serves contemporary cuisine and offers a stunning view of the Seine and the Statue of Liberty. And at street level, a few doors down from cosmetic haven, Sephora, is Eclectic, a contemporary Parisian brasserie with a beehive-inspired décor by British designer Tom Dixon. The menu here offers traditional French fare including foie gras and escargots as well as Croque Monsieur and the best salted caramel brioche French toast. Les 4 Temps, featuring over 230 boutiques, is one of the largest shopping centres in the city. Four floors, under a futuristic dome, boast fashion, beauty and toy stores for all your shopping needs. Comptoir des Cotonniers and Lancel are only a couple of

the boutiques here as well as toy mecca, Toys ‘R’ Us, for your little ones. For the more athletic shoppers you will find Go Sport and M.A.C, Body Minute and Marionnaud will satisfy all your beauty needs. Les 4 Temps also features a cinema complex, restaurants and here everything is open on Sundays!

The city’s congress centre is also host to a great shopping centre, Les Boutiques du Palais. Here you will find both high-end and high street brands to smartly mix and match. Boss, Escada and Tumi are only a few of the top names you will find along with French brands Gerard Darel and Zadig & Voltaire. The centre is open daily and also boasts a supermarket, restaurants and a cinema complex. Another centre worth seeing is So Ouest. Located on the outskirts of Paris in Levallois, So Ouest brings all your favourite French and international brands under the one roof, including Bel Air, Desigual and One Step. If you are looking for home décor items you will love Madura and Nature & Découvertes, where you will also find relaxing essential oils and great gift ideas for kids and if you are after statement-making accessories then you will love Swarovski’s crystal jewellery. The centre is also where you will find the Lego and La Grande Récré boutiques, which will without a doubt, bring a huge smile to the little ones’ faces.

ECLECTIC PHOTO © THOMAS DUVAL

Besides fabulous department stores, known the world over, Paris also offers great shopping centres. Grouping all your favourite brands under the one roof and offering restaurants and entertainment, these centres are also very ideal for families.

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

ADDRESS BOOK BEAUGRENELLE 12 rue Linois (15th), 01 53 95 24 00 Boutiques are open Monday to Saturday Cinema and restaurants are open 7 days a week

Clockwise from top left: Beaugrenelle; Comptoir des Cotonniers at Les 4 Temps; Desigual jeans and One Step t-shirt at So Ouest; Gerard Darel at Les Boutiques du Palais; Eclectic at Beaugrenelle

LES 4 TEMPS 15 parvis de la Défense, 92092 La Défense, 01 47 73 54 44 LES BOUTIQUES DU PALAIS 2 place de la Porte Maillot (17th), 01 40 68 10 00 SO OUEST 31 rue d’Alsace, 92300 Levallois, 01 41 06 40 00 Boutiques and restaurants in the centre are open Monday to Saturday

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W h e r e pa r i S

La Vallée Village

Department StoreS & Shopping CentreS

takes up an entire floor, restaurants,

entirely dedicated to shoes while

wine bars and a tea room and the

Printemps de la Lingerie carries

cosmetics and perfume section

80 labels – several exclusive to

offers 260 different brands.

Printemps, including the cult

Lafayette Homme – A separate

London line Agent Provocateur.

BEAUGRENELLE

LE BON MARCHE

building housing men’s fashion

On the 6th and 7th floors of the

This elegant and luminous

The oldest department store in

and accessories.

Printemps Beauty/Home store are

shopping centre overlooking

Paris and the only one on the Rive

Lafayette Maison – (Across the

fashions for children.

the Seine houses a fine selection

Gauche. Extremely chic, with a

street) a home décor shop with

Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm, Thurs

of chic and elegant boutiques

great selection of ready-to-wear,

sophisticated furnishings.

until 8:45pm. 64 blvd Haussmann

devoted to clothing, accessories

household goods, cosmetics and

Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm,

(9th), 01.42.82.50.00

and the home, along with food

lingerie, all under a lovely glass roof.

Thurs until 9 pm.

M° Havre-Caumartin

shops, restaurants and a cinema.

And the entire basement floor is

40 blvd Haussmann (9th),

This environmentally friendly

dedicated to men.

01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

complex has a green roof

Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm, Thurs & Fri

d’Antin-La Fayette

Discover the new Printemps

welcoming a bird refuge and

until 9pm. 24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

beehives, green walls and a free

01.44.39.80.00.

PRINTEMPS HAUSSMANN

know-how in the heart of the

shuttle boat links the centre with

M° Sèvres-Babylone

Printemps’ exquisite world of

Louvre Museum, showcasing the

Luxury and Accessories, spread

most prestigious accessories,

the Eiffel Tower.

celebrating luxury and French

Mon-Sat 10am-9pm. Thurs until

LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

out over 3 floors, plays host to a

beauty products, watches and

10pm. Cinema and Restaurants:

Art, beauty, technology, leather

splendid collection of luxury houses

jewellery brands.

Mon-Sun 10am-midnight.

goods and more are found under

and the most sought-after labels.

Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm.

12 rue Linois (15th).

the famous inverted pyramid at

Printemps de l’Homme, the very

Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de

M° Charles Michels

the Louvre in the Carrousel du

first to dedicate an entire shop to

Rivoli (1st), 01.76.77.41.00.

Louvre. A unique shopping venue,

men, houses six floors of menswear

M° Palais-Royal – Musée du Louvre

BHV/MARAIS

it brings together a collection of

and a men’s salon. International

A department store known for

boutiques that are opened every

Designers, an entire floor dedicated

LA VALLEE VILLAGE

its great homeware selection

day of the year.

to trendy new designers, is home

A village-like shopping outlet on

and appliances as well as a good

10am – 8pm, even on Sundays.

to prestigious fashion designers

the city outskirts offering discounts

selection of top brand names for

99 rue de Rivoli (1st),

with the space created by fashion

of up to 60% on a hundred luxury

women and children. Mon, Tues,

01.43.16.47.10.

visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou.

labels including Armani, Burberry,

Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed

M° Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre

Printemps de la Beauté features

Tumi and Ralph Lauren.

two floors of products and

Mon-Sun 10am-7pm.

9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm. BHV Homme – a shop exclusively

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

beauty supplies as well as a spa

Shopping Express Shuttle bus

dedicated to men (36 rue de

This elegant department store

and beauty salon. La Scent Room

departs from the centre of

la Verrerie).

carries top brands including

is a unique concept that offers

Paris twice a day at 9:30am and

14 rue du Temple (4th),

Chanel, Chloé and Gaultier. There’s

only exclusive luxury brands that

12:30pm. 3 cours de la Garonne,

01.42.74.90.00.

a wonderful lingerie department,

you won’t find anywhere else.

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to

M° Hôtel de Ville

a new children’s concept store that

Printemps de la Mode is one floor

Val d’Europe (about 35min).

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ph.alessandrobencini.com

15 Galerie VĂŠro-Dodat 75001 Paris (enter at 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau or 2 rue du Bouloi) Tel. +33 01 40 39 01 51 - Fax: +33 01 40 39 01 19

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W h e r e pa r i s [ S H O P P I N G ]

LUXUrY Car serViCe Nothing says luxurious comfort more than having a personal chauffeur accompany you on all your trips.

venez avec vos yeux, nous nous occupons du reste

Whether you’re on a whirlwind day full of appointments or simply shopping up a storm in the capital’s

7 4 r u e d e s s a in t s p è r e s , p a r is 7 è m e tel : +33 (0)1 45 49 40 00 - email : boutique.saintsperes@mikli.com

correction et distinction

many fashionable neighbourhoods, having a car pick you up, drop you off and wait for you while you find

VINTAGE BOUTIQUE Clothing, accessories and jewellery Vintage Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Balenciaga, YSL ...

that six-figure contract makes all the difference when running around the city. Trip’s Women offers the perfect service on these crazy days or even for less hectic ones when you just want to get to where you need to be with no hassle of finding a cab and having punctuality and comfort guaranteed. You can even call Trip’s Women for airport transfers and day trips if you want to just escape without the need to hop on a train. The service is friendly and the cars chic. You can organise your car by calling 07 61 15 95 74.

14 rue de Beaune, Paris 7th (Metro: Rue du Bac) www.renaissancevintageparis.com / renaissance75007@orange.fr Tel. 06 85 43 03 52 / 01 42 60 95 49

RENAISSANCE

that perfect outfit or while you sign

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

BEAUTY BUZZ

POLISH POP

This season it is all about bright colours and now you can match your nail polish to your colourful outfit with Marionnaud’s latest polish collection. If you’re a classic girl you will love the Vichy Rose but if you are a little bit daring then Happy Blue is for you. Available at Marionnaud

AWAY WITH MAKEUP French skincare brand Esthederm is famous for its fantastic range of tanning and sun care products, however, one of its best-kept beauty secrets is Osmoclean. The dual-phase eye make-up and lipstick remover is soft on your skin, magically removing all traces of make-up even the most of stubborn of eyeliners and long-lasting lipsticks, without being too harsh on your eye contours. Simply shake, dab on a cotton pad and apply to

SKINCARE FOR HIM

Gentlemen, you can now activate your youth with Lancôme’s Génific HD Youth Activating Concentrate. Specifically formulated for men, the concentrate helps combat against daily aggressions caused by shaving by increasing protein production and improving cellular turnover. Used morning and night, the concentrate hydrates and softens the skin, and after 7 days pores are reduced in size, giving you that photoshopped smooth look. Available at Sephora

your eyelids and lips. The formula is even suited to contact lens wearers.

ONE-STOP SHOP BEAUTY HAVENS

Available at Le Bon Marché

2 DROPS AWAY FROM LOOKING YOUNGER Pomothérapie’s Youth Intensifier is formulated to double your beauty efficiency to give you smoother-looking skin and a radiating glow. Simply mix 2 drops of the elixir with your day and night cream and watch as the anti-age and anti-wrinkle product works its magic. For a quicker boost apply 2 to 4 drops directly to your face without mixing with a cream, making this is a handy product while travelling, as it will help camouflage signs of fatigue from jetlag. Available at Parashop boutiques including 20 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 96 21 23

SEPHORA Perfumes, cosmetics, beauty products, you might wind up spending the day here in this fabulous store filled not only with goods but plenty of services, too. You can have your nails, eyebrows and hair done, and then try out samples galore. 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt MARIONNAUD PARIS A fine selection of perfumes and cosmetics for men, women and children are the hallmarks of this glorious beauty haven. Gift sets, travel articles, make-up as well as exclusive products are among the great finds in this boutique where you can also get your make-up done during your beautifying shopping spree. 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 37

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

SPAS

FAB FIVE SPAS CLARINS BOUTIQUE INSTITUT A revolutionary approach that takes you back in time. There are no machines in this spa. The Clarins formula relies on the use of plants and on the talented hands of their trained professionals. 10 rue de Babylone (7th), 01.45.44.06.19. Mº Sèvres-Babylone SIX SENSES Enter this sanctuary to well-being doted with stunning architecture featuring the elements and an interior vertical garden. The spas cocoon rooms offer an extensive treatment menu

including half-day sensory journeys and Asianbased rejuvenating treatments. 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.43.16.10.10. Mº Tuileries SPA CINQ MONDES This spacious spa tucked away in a quiet courtyard offers an array of face and body treatments inspired by many cultures, including an Ayurvedic Indian massage, a revitalising Taoist massage and a Shiatsu massage. 6 sq de l’Opéra-Louis-Jouvet (9th), 01.42.66.00.60. Mº Opéra SPA L’OCCITANE A natural beauty spa where you can resource

yourself in the heart of Paris through a host of face, hair and body treatments using L’Occitane’s grand herbarium of hundreds of essential oils and natural ingredients. 47 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.42.22.88.62. Mº Sèvres-Babylone WELEDA This emblematic French firm uses natural and organic ingredients in the preparation of its line of cosmetics and beauty treatments. The house’s natural beauty treatment oils, including rose, wheat germ and almond oils, are hallmarks of the brand. The spa, the Espace Weleda, offers a full line of face and body treatments using the house’s products. 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

25800_BTSP ANNONCE VERTIC_OK_BTS 27/12/1

Contemporary Asian Spa

The Art of Thaï Massage B

A N

H A I

P A

A R I S

MANDARIN ORIENTAL SPA The Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s spa treatments combine physical, mental and emotional wellbeing, to help you achieve the highest level of relaxation possible. Each suite-like cabin here is equipped with a steam room, shower and of course a massage table. The treatments menu ranges from facials, which

Thaï Massage Oil Massage Foot Massage

uses the French touch of Guerlain products, to full body massages. The spa also

Massage for 2

offers three signature treatments including the two hour and twenty minute

Hammam

Mandarin Oriental Signature Spa Therapies that starts out with a questionnaire

Body Scrub

about your skin, body and any problems, emotionally or physically, you may have to best determine the ritual best suited to you as well as aide the therapist to know whether it is your yin or yang that needs more attention. Once done a green tea-based body scrub waits for you in the steam room. Then your

Near Louvre Museum

signature massage begins. A foot bath and massage prepares your senses for

5, rue Mandar - 75002 Paris

a relaxing voyage before your back, arms and legs, with enough pressure, are

+ 33 1 40 28 00 80

delicately kneaded, after which the focus is turned to your face and scalp with a

M° Etienne Marcel (line 4)

magical head massage. The fabulous treatment ends with a pastry made by chef

www.massage-thai-paris.fr

Thierry Marx, sweetly preparing you to re-enter the outside world after having been wrapped inside a relaxing cocoon.

O P E N D A I LY 1 1 A M T O 9 P M

251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 70 98 73 35 w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 39

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WELCOME DESK - TOURIST TAX REFUND FASHION SHOWS PRIVILEGED WELCOME & VIP SERVICE GOURMET STORE & RESTAURANTS BUREAU D’ACCUEIL - DÉTAXE DÉFILÉS DE MODE ACCUEIL PRIVILÉGIÉ & SERVICE VIP ALIMENTATION DE LUXE & RESTAURANTS

Open Monday through Saturday from 9.30 AM to 8 PM Late opening every Thursday until 9 PM Ouvert de 9h30 à 20h du lundi au samedi Nocturne jusqu’à 21h le jeudi

Tél : +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/ *Le grand magasin capitale de la mode

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Jean-Paul Goude Pour auBerTSTorCH. GlH 572 062 594 rCS PariS.

40, BD HAUSSMANN 75009 PARIS MÉTRO : CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN-LA FAYETTE

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ] HOME DECOR BOUTIQUES BACCARAT The renowned crystal maker has a lovely Philippe Starck-designed boutique, museum and restaurant in a vast private mansion. Besides fine glassware, you will also find crystal jewellery and exquisite accessories. 11 pl des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière

Christofle teapot from the Silver Time collection

CONTEMPOR ARY SHOPPING

Carré d’Artistes recently opened their 5th gallery in Paris in the 12th arrondissement in Bercy Village. The gallery showcases contemporary art and is where you will find original and one-off pieces that you will not find anywhere else. The selection of artwork varies in size and price, making it possible to find a painting no matter your budget. A great address if you are looking for original art to give your home a new look. The gallery is open daily from 11am to 9pm. Bercy Village 47 cour Saint-Emilion (12th), 01 43 43 72 70

K I TC H E N A R T Bring a touch of art to the kitchen table with this painter’s palette cheeseboard complete with a paintbrush knife. From Astier de Villatte’s Setsuko collection, this colourful set is a fabulous gift for anyone who loves entertaining and who loves indulging in French cheese. 173 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 74 13

I T’S M AG I C Guy Degrenne’s Illusions collection of fine porcelain cups and mugs change colour once you pour your drink in them. Watch as your purple cup slowly changes to pink when you pour your hot coffee or see your azure bleu cup miraculously turn to white when you pour your tea. This chameleon collection is a fun way to add colour to your coffee break and will definitely delight the kids. 26 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 40 06 01 93

CHRISTOFLE This silversmith, founded in 1830, is known for top quality sterling and plate. The house’s art and craft magic is worked into the table arts, jewellery and an array of delightful items that make perfect gifts. www.christofle.com. 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde DIPTYQUE The ultimate shop for perfumed candles. The line of 54 scents includes Muguet (lily of the valley), Feu de Bois (wood fire) and Figuier (fig tree). www.diptyqueparis.fr 34 blvd St-Germain (5th), 01.43.26.77.44. M° Maubert Mutualité FLEUX Superbly original, decorative items can be found here ranging from small pieces of furniture to lights, rugs, objects, tableware and fashionable accessories for the home. Elegant and eclectic, the store also offers expert interior decorating advice. www.fleux.com 39 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 01.42.78.27.20. M° Rambuteau HAVILAND Limoges china in many different styles, from French classical to contemporary is available here. More modern settings include the silvery Clair de Lune and the brilliant goldbanded Tambour. www.haviland.fr 6 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.06.91.08. M° Madeleine MAISONS DU MONDE Everything for the home is to be found here from furnishings to fabrics, mirrors to decorative objects. www.maisonsdumonde.com. 32 rue du Fbg St. Antoine (12th), 01.53.33.83.07. M° Bastille

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[SHOPPING]

shOpping time advertorial

byebuy Luxury showroom specialised in leading French luxury goods brands: Chanel, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Goyard, Cartier, Yves Saint Laurent. Showroom for men and women. The space can be privatized. Discretion guaranteed.

durance For Durance, Provence is both a heritage and an inspiration. We compose a well-being universe of indoor fragrances, natural cosmetics and elegant perfumes. Our wide range of refined fragrances are elaborated by our master perfume-makers in Grasse. Durance Paris IX 24 rue Vignon, Paris 9th / Tel: +33 (0)1 47 42 04 10

4 rue des Gravilliers, Paris 3rd M° Arts et Métiers Tel: 06 63 13 06 30 www.byebuy.fr

www.durance.fr

ten clothes

tikibou toy stores

On a typical street in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood is found this exclusive boutique for babies and children. Joyful and colourful fashion, featuring fabrics of fine quality, contemporary clothing, thought out and elaborated for the wellbeing of your young ones. Get 10% on your next purchase when you present this page.

The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes and more. There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike. Tuesday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm

2 rue du Sabot, Paris 6th (M° St Germain des Prés) Tel: 01 42 22 16 60 www.tenclothes.com

Durance Paris VI 8 rue de Sèvres, Paris 6th / Tel: +33 (0)1 45 44 08 74

20 ave de Trudaine, Paris 9th 33 blvd Edgar Quinet, Paris 14th 20 ave Félix Faure, Paris 15th www.tikibou.fr w w w.wh eretr aveler.c o m 43

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

FAB FOOD

M IC H A L A K CH O CO L ATE He is famous for his classic caramel religieuse pastry at the Plaza Athénée Hotel but now pastry chef Christophe Michalak shows his more playful personality with his quirky chocolate blocks. At his Michalak TakeAway store you will find video and cassette tape-shaped chocolate blocks and even a multiple electrical outlet-shaped chocolate bar. Tuesday to Saturday, 12-7pm 60 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière (10th)

WINE TAS TINGS When visiting France, French wine is one of the first things frequently tasted and appreciated. The Caves Bernard Magrez wine cellar boutique is a chic address where you will find an impressive selection of rare wines and exceptional millesimes including the Grands Crus Château Pape Clément, making it a great spot to visit while in the French capital for wine amateurs. You will undoubtedly enjoy the tastings organised here by the house sommelier as well as appreciate the attentive service and advice offered when looking for a great bottle of wine. Tuesday to Saturday, 11am to 7.30pm 43rue Saint Augustin (2nd), 01 49 24 03 11

A favourite spot to break up a day of sightseeing around the Opera district and shopping at the nearby department store is the Lindt chocolate flagship store. The store offers an abundance of chocolate, though it is the Chocolate Bar tearoom in the back that makes this store a fabulously sweet find. Here you can sample chocolate-based desserts, ice-cream and decadent hot or ice chocolate. Of course you can also buy all your favourite Lindt chocolate on your way out. Continuous service Monday to Saturday, 10am to 8pm 11bis rue Scribe (9th), 01 43 12 32 40

LINDT BOUTIQUE PHOTO © STUDIO PIXELS ET PAPILLON

LE CHOCOLATE BAR

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Food i stop

OWNER OF CHÂTEAU PAPE CLÉMENT

FAUCHON A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies. M° Madeleine JEAN-CHARLES ROCHOUX BOUTIQUE Beautifully sculpted, melt in your mouth chocolates are to be found in this aromatic shop. The chocolate-maker carefully selects his ingredients and cooks his chocolates the oldfashioned way, in copper pots. Try his classic praline or caramel mousse-filled chocolate. 16 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.84.29.45. M° Rennes

40 exceptional vineyards to taste in the heart of Paris, including 4 grands crus classés Bordeaux : SAINT-EMILION • MEDOC • SAUTERNES • PESSAC LÉOGNAN

JEAN-PAUL HEVIN One of the city’s best chocolatiers, with a luscious selection of first-rate chocolates, delicious caramels and fruit-and-nutdecorated mendiants. A tearoom offers lunch and afternoon treats. 231 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.35.96. M° Tuileries

43 rue Saint-Augustin, Paris 2nd / Tel: +33 (0)1 49 24 03 11 Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 7.30pm

www.bernard-magrez.com

LADUREE A wonderfully old-fashioned pastry shop and tearoom famous for its macarons, crispy confections with soft centres that come in classic flavours as well as seasonal specialties. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. M° George V LA PATISSERIE CYRIL LIGNAC Talented Michelin-starred chef Cyril Lignac’s pastry shop in the sophisticated 16th arrondissement is where you will find his famous salted caramel éclair. 2 rue de Chaillot (16th), 01.43.48.19.50. M° Iéna LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT High-end chocolates made with some of the world’s finest cocoa. Several locations, including 120 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.40.67.77.83. M° Victor Hugo and 19 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.20.40. M° Sèvres-Babylone PIERRE HERME Fourth-generation pâtissier Pierre Hermé delivers delicious pastries and chocolates, and his very famous macarons, with flavours such as chocolate caramel. 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.43.54.47.77. M° St-Sulpice

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[address book]

shopping

karl laGerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. Mº Rue du Bac

l u x u r y s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Accessories Couleurs & CaChemire - 11 rue de Béarn (3rd), 09.51.59.43.21. Mº Chemin Vert/St-Paul duret paris - 14 ave George V (8th), 01.47.20.53.56. Mº George V JB Guanti - 59 rue de Rennes (6 ), 01.45.48.65.50. Mº Saint Sulpice/Mabillon th

le Carré d’enCre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th) , 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin misterChrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. Mº Opéra

children’s clothing & toys Boites a musiQue anna Joliet - 9 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.55.13. Mº Pyramides Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. Mº Mabillon Catimini - 15 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.44.71.06.23. Mº Madeleine

eye WeAr

JaCadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. Mº Madeleine Joué CluB - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. Mº Tuileries

montBlanC - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Mº George V

miki house - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries

swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Mº Madeleine

tikiBou toy store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet

s.t. dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.45.61.08.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

ten Clothes - 2-4 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.22.16.60. M° St Sulpice

vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th),01.42.86.56.66. Mº Madeleine

BeAuty spA & products l’artisan parfumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. Mº Pont Neuf Ban thai spa - 20 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.43.54.01.01. Mº Odéon espaCe weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Mº George V lanCÔme - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. Mº Madeleine les Comptoirs de duranCe - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. Mº Madeleine l’oCCitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Mº Pont Marie m.a.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V make up for ever - 5 rue des FrancsBourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.23.19. M° St-Paul

FABrics: couture

Food & Wine

dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Cave Bernard maGreZ - 43 rue St. Augustin (2nd), 01.49.24.03.11. Mº Quatre-Septembre Caviar petrossian - 8 blvd de la TourMaubourg (7th), 01.44.11.32.32. Mº La TourMaubourg deBauve & Gallais - 30 rue des SaintsPères (7th), 01.45.48.54.67. Mº St-Germaindes-Prés fauChon - 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Mº Madeleine hediard - 21 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.88.88. Mº Madeleine kusmi tea - 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.08.08. Mº George V ladurée - 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. Mº George V mariaGe frÈres - 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01.42.72.28.11. Mº Hôtel de Ville pierre hermé - 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.43.54.47.77. Mº St-Sulpice wine By one - 9 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.60.85.76. Mº Opéra

dsQuared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. Mº Concorde

hoMe decor

anne fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8 ), 01.40.73.78.01. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt th

Banana repuBliC - 22 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGmaXaZria -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. Mº Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Mº George V Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Mº Madeleine Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. Mº Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. Mº Concorde Corneliani - 23 rue du Fbg St.Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.30. Mº Concorde de fursaC - 146 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.43.25.40.66. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

emanuel BerG - 140 rue du Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. Mº SaintPhilippe-du-Roule

salon Chistophe roBin - Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.02.83. M° Tuileries

hervé leGer - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. Mº Madeleine

sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

alain mikli - 74 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01.45.49.40.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone franCis klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GrandoptiCal - 138 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V

Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Mº Concorde

clothing: Men & WoMen

marionnaud paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V

salon John nollet - Hotel Park Hyatt, 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.55.80.71.50. M° Opéra

kapra hiska - 43 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.76.06.47. Mº Chemin Vert lady r forrest - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.65.25.46. Mº Concorde lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. Mº Concorde les dandys - 23 rue Pasquier (8th), 01.40.07.05.52. Mº Saint-Augustin levi’s store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. Mº Georges V marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Mº Madeleine marina rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. Mº Madeleine talBot runhof - 14 rue d’Alger (1st), 01.55.04.85.50. Mº Tuileries Zilli - 48 rue François 1er (8th), 01.53.23.90.96. Mº George V

iBlues - 16 rue de Passy (16th), 01.42.88.68.67. Mº Passy ikks - 27 blvd des Capucines (2th), 01.40.20.99.73. Mº Pont Neuf Jean paul Gaultier - 44 ave George V (8th), 01.44.43.00.44. Mº George V

ateliers d’art de franCe BoutiQue (talents) - 26 ave Niel (17th), 01.44.40.22.80. Mº Pereire/Ternes BaCCarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. Mº Boissière Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. Mº Madeleine Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Mº Concorde laliQue - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Mº Madeleine

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silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. Mº Kléber zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. Mº Madeleine

Jewellery & watches a. lange & söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. Mº Opéra angela Caputi giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Mº Louvre-Rivoli arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. Mº Tuileries BouCheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra BuCherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. Mº Opéra Bvlgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. Mº Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. Mº Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. Mº Opéra dodo By pomellato - 350 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. Mº Tuileries F.p. journe - 63 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00. Mº Champs-Elysées Clemenceau huBlot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. Mº Opéra inedit joaillier - 14 rue de l’Abbaye (6th), 01.56.24.13.85. MºSt-Germain-des-Prés guCCi watChes - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, Mº Havre-Caumartin omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. Mº Concorde patek philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Mº Tuileries piaget - 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries tiFFany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20 20. Mº Opéra tissot Boutique - 76 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Mº George V van CleeF & arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. Mº Opéra vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. Mº Miromesnil wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

luggage and bags Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. Mº Concorde/Madeleine CoaCh (available at Printemps): 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.46.35. Mº Havre-Caumartin

longChamp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. Mº Concorde louis vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. Mº George V pinel & pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. Mº Madeleine prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt teXier- 127 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.42.97.59.34. Mº Mabillon/ St-Germain-des-Prés tumi - 245 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. Mº Concorde

By marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. Mº George V Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. Mº Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. Mº Tuileries gaB&jo - 28 rue Jacob (6th), 09.84.53.58.43. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés l’eClaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. Mº George V merCi - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3th), 01.42.77.00.33. Mº Saint Sébastien-Froissard montaigne market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

ann tuil - 63 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.25.67.31. Mº George V a.testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. Mº Concorde Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian louBoutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Mº Madeleine CroCkett & jones – 14 rue ChauveauLagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Mº Madeleine derville – Passage des 2 Pavillons (1st), 01.42.96.82.27. Mº Pyramides jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt j.m. weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. Mº George V mephisto shop - 12 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.40.15.00.50. Mº Pyramides paraBoot - 304 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.44.50.52.67. Mº Tuileries repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. Mº Opéra tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Mº Concorde

wempe 16 rue Royale (8th) Mº Concorde ❘ www.wempe.com

Vintage

lanCel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. Mº George V

renaissanCe - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. Mº rue du Bac

hermÈs - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Mº Concorde

silvera 56-58 ave Kléber (16th) Mº Kléber ❘ www.silvera.fr

shoes

kipling – 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.77.67. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. Mº Madeleine

vertu 18 rue Royale (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.vertu.com

multi-brand boutiques

Bye Buy - 4 rue des Gravilliers (3th), 06.63.13.06.30. Mº Arts et Métiers dépôt vente du 17Ème - 109 rue de Courcelles, 75017, 09.81.82.00.66. Mº Saint-Paul didier ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. Mº Pyramides dress-Code - 62 ave Théophile Gautier (16th), 01.45.25.00.00. Mº Eglise d’Auteuil l’iBis rouge - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

dot-drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. Mº Mabillon

©Philippe Hugonnard

For more shopping destinations , go to wheretraveler.com/paris

lalique 11 rue Royale (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.lalique.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

S W INGING INTO THE 2 0 t h CENT URY An elegant Parisian crosses the Place de la Concorde, with a nicely wrapped box in hand while strollers linger over the Pont Alexandre III, with the Invalides looming in the background and style-setters mix and mingle at a gala soirée at the Pré Catelan. Scenes that could emerge out of Paris of today, but they are of a Paris of yesterday, precisely in and around the year 1900 when Paris was regarded by the entire world as the city of luxury and the art of living. In an exhibition entitled Paris 1900, La Ville Spectacle, the enticing world of the French capital unfolds in all of its Belle Epoque splendour while it welcomed the Universal Exhibition of 1900, which inaugurated with great fanfare the 20th century. Some 600 works, paintings, costumes, posters, photographs, furniture and jewellery, including paintings by Toulouse-Lautrec and objects by Lalique, plunge the visitor into the exciting, elegant world of Paris circa 1900. The show is being held in the Petit Palais, a perfect venue for the structure is an architectural gem of the year 1900. – Patricia Valicenti Avenue Winston Churchill (8th), 01 53 43 40 00

HENRI GERVEX (PARIS, 1852 – PARIS, 1929) UNE SOIRÉE AU PRÉ-CATELAN, 1909 © PARIS, MUSÉE CARNAVALET/ROGER-VIOLLET

ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

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[ A r t s & At t r A c t i o n s ]

sUe lyon los anGeles 1962 PHoto © Willy rizzo; sleePinG Car of tHe orient exPress PHoto ©Jean-JaCqUes d’anGelo; Henri MiCHaUx, enCre de CHine, 1959, Presented at tHe Galerie BertHet-aittoUarès PHoto © Bertrand HUGUes

H o l ly wo o d Bo u l e va r d “My objective was Hollywood, its stars, its producers, its Studios, everything that made me dream since I was a child,” Willy Rizzo once explained. And so in an exhibition fittingly entitled “I’ve returned from Hollywood”, the Studio Willy Rizzo is presenting portraits and pictures of the elite of Hollywood and of the American movie business photographed by the celebrated photographer. There is Sue Lyon in heart-shaped sunglasses in 1962 looking very much the Lolita of the film that made her a star. The great Hollywood producer Jack Warner, as in the Warner, enjoying a cigar in his living room, complete with a giant screen, in Beverly Hills in 1959. And there is Sean Penn in Hollywood in 1994, and as described by Rizzo, “An insolent air, the aggressive cigarette, the torn jeans, the Sean that I prefer.” – P.V. 12 rue de Verneuil (7th), 01 42 86 07 31

On Board the Orient The great masters like René Lalique decorated its wagons. Marlene Dietrich, Lawrence of Arabia and Mata Hari were among its illustrious passengers, and it was immortalised in the works of Agatha Christie and Ian Fleming. In an exhibition entitled Once Upon a Time, The Orient Express, the Institut du Monde Arabe is paying tribute to the iconic, luxurious and mythical train. It is a train that crossed frontiers and would enable travellers to discover another continent. To begin their voyage into another time, visitors to the show actually board three vintage wagons and the dining car, which are set up in the entrance courtyard along with the locomotive. The exhibition then moves into more traditional space on two floors of the Institute where posters, menus, tableware, objects, luggage and furnishings display the fabulous luxury of the great adventure of the Orient Express. – P.V. 1 rue des Fossés-Saint-Bernard (5th), 01 40 51 38 38

ALL ABOUT ART

Throughout the month of June the galleries in this Left Bank neighbourhood historically home to the arts, culture and artists celebrate creativity in a host of mediums. For the Juin d’Art Saint-Germain event, galleries are creating special exhibitions of their finest works to present to the public. Three specialities are in the spotlight this year: contemporary and modern art, archaeology and tribal art along with the decorative arts and design. This year’s theme is Sound Investment and each gallery will present what it considers to be a sound investment, be it an artist, a period, a movement, en ethnic group or simply an object or a specialty. Galleries are located between the rue Saint-Benoît, the quai de Conti and the rue Dauphine. A map is supplied by participating galleries, identified by the event’s logo on or hanging from the facade. – P.V. www.artsaintgermaindespres.com w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 49

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sleepy summer days of straw hats, parasols and rippling light reflected in clear blue and green waters come to life on the canvases of Gustave Caillebotte. The town of Yerres, 20 minutes from Paris, is the setting for a fine exhibition of impressionist paintings with some 40 masterpieces by Caillebotte being shown in a landmark exhibition devoted to this French artist. The works are being displayed for the first time in the artist’s former estate where some of them were painted. Gustave Caillebotte was 12-years-old when his family set up their summer residence in this wooded region south of Paris. From 1875 to 1879 the artist would paint some of his leading works in this property with its large manor house, a spacious park stretched out along the river and a market garden. The small bucolic river, the Yerres, figures prominently in his works, which are peopled with bathers, fishermen and boaters. – P.V. Propriété Caillebotte, 8 rue de Concy, 91330 Yerres, 01 69 48 93 93

GALLERIES GALERIE BERNHEIM-JEUNE The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and others. Now run by descendants of the founder, the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm. www.bernheim-jeune.com 83 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE DANIEL TEMPLON A contemporary gallery featuring established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.danieltemplon.com 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10. M° Rambuteau

modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm. Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. www.maeght.com 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15. M° Rue du Bac

GALERIE MALINGUE This prestigious gallery has been welcoming discerning art collectors for over three decades. With three lofty exhibition rooms, it proffers a journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miró are all found in this fine and sublime house of art. Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm, Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions) 2:30pm-

GALERIE MARIAN GOODMAN The Paris branch of the renowned New York gallery. Artists include John Baldessari and Jeff Wall. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. www.mariangoodman.com 79 rue du Temple (3rd), 01.48.04.70.52. M° Rambuteau

GALERIE NATHALIE OBADIA This contemporary gallery features fine, collectable works by both established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 11am7pm. www.galerie-obadia.com 3 rue du Cloître Saint-Merri (4th), 01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de Ville

GALERIE POLAD-HARDOUIN This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Conferences animated by specialists are organised throughout the year. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. www.polad-hardouin.com 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29. M° Rambuteau

GALERIE DE JONCKHEERE Museum-quality 16th and 17th-century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. www.dejonckheere.fr 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE LELONG This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am-6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm, www.galerie-lelong.com 13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE SCHMIT

GALERIE MAEGHT This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading

6:30pm. www.malingue.net 26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

Galerie Daniel Templon

Three generations of art experts present museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th century French masters. Covering periods from the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm. 396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36. M° Concorde

Gustave Caillebotte Périssoires sur l’Yerres 1877 NatioNal GallerY of art, WashiNGtoN; the Galerie DaNiel temPloN Photo © Galerie DaNiel temPloN, Paris et bruxelles

iNTO IMPRESSIONISM

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Endless column, 2008 - Bronze with gold leaves - 176 x 50 x 49 cm

Marc Quinn

356, rue Saint-HonorĹ˝ 75001 Paris. T +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 paris@operagaller y.com Mon. - Sat. 10 am - 7 pm

www.operagallery.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

MUSEUMS

CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU

www.rmn.fr. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th),

Ages to 21st-century design, including a dozen

France’s top modern art museum, with

01.44.13.17.17.

sumptuously furnished period rooms. Through

some 56,000 works by more than 5000

M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau

Jun 8 Les secrets de la laque française, delves

café on the premises. The centre also has interactive spaces devoted to children and adolescents. Through Jun 9 Henri CartierBresson, retrospective devoted to the great photographer. Through Sept 22 Martial Raysse, retrospective exploring the works of one of France’s most important living artists. Wed-Mon 11am-9pm, (last tickets 8pm). Library opened until 10pm. www.centrepompidou.fr. Place Georges

MUSEE D’ORSAY A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th- and 20th-century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Through Jul 6 Vincent Van Gogh/Antonin Artaud, Le suicidé de la société, this exhibition, bringing together some 40 paintings, drawings and letters by Van Gogh explores the analysis of the artist’s works by the French author and playwright Antonin

into the 18th century art of French lacquer finishing. Through Jun 29 De la Chine aux Arts Décoratifs, reveals the rich and diverse collections of the museum’s Chinese art objects that were collected by Western patrons of the arts in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Tue-Fri 11 am-6 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-6 pm, Thu until 9pm. www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr. 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.57.50. M° Palais Royal

Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33.

Artaud. From Jun 24 through Sept 28 Jean-

MUSEE DU LOUVRE

M° Rambuteau

Baptiste Carpeaux, Un sculpteur pour l’Empire,

One of the world’s most important art

takes a look at the works of this exceptionally

collections, including the Mona Lisa. The

GALERIES NATIONALES DU GRAND PALAIS National art galleries in the recently renovated, glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Through Jul 21 Bill Viola, brings together the major works of the pioneering American video artist. Through Jul 13 Moi, Auguste, Empereur de Rome, this show recounts Rome during the time of Augustus,

gifted sculptor who worked in the atmosphere of France’s Second Empire. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. Thu to 9:45pm. Guided tours in English TueSat 11:30 am. www.musee-orsay.fr. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino

Denon wing houses European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th-century French paintings, Greek and Roman antiquities, and Greek and Russian icons. Louis XIV’s magnificent Apollo Gallery provides a glittering setting for France’s crown jewels. The Pavillon des Sessions displays Primitive art from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas.

the first emperor of Rome. Through Jul 14

MUSEE DES ARTS DECORATIFS

The Richelieu wing features French painting

Robert Mapplethorpe, this major retrospective

A semi-private museum with a fabulous

and sculpture, Oriental antiquities and Islamic

brings together over 200 works by the

collection of decorative arts—furniture,

art. The Sully wing houses the monumental

celebrated 20th century photographer.

homeware, ceramics and porcelain, paintings

remains of the medieval Louvre and Egyptian

Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm.

and objets d’art, dating from the late Middle

antiquities. Through Jun 16 Le Trésor de

PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - MARC BERTRAND

artists. Library, boutique, bookshop and

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[ A r t s & At t r A c t i o n s ] Galeries Nationale du Grand Palais

/ I TM Z Q M < I U u V I O I IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Right Bank Nocturnal Opening June 4th

Sugawara Fuyukizakura (150 x 150 cm)

MODERN WORkS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Rouault, Van Dongen, Dufy, kisling, Picasso, Gris, klee, Chagall, Bonnard, Buffet, Soutine CONTEMPORARY WORkS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano 18 avenue Matignon - Paris 8th Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com

l’Abbaye de Saint-Maurice d’Agaune, this exceptional exhibition presents the major pieces of the oldest monastery in the West:

Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

gold from the Middle Ages, textiles from the East, relics and manuscripts are all on display.

Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities.

Through Jul 28 Naissance d’un musée, reveals exceptional works from the new Louvre Abu Dhabi museum. Open Wed-Mon 9 am-6 pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6 pm). Guided tours in English daily except Sun & Tue. Under 18 free; under 26 free Fri after 6 pm. First Sun of the month free for all. To avoid lines, buy advance tickets (see website). www.louvre.

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood

fr. 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.50.50; photo © paris tourist office - Marc Bertrand

information English/Spanish 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli

A display of fun and trendy 1930’s cocktail accessories complete the show.

MUSEE RODIN Sculpture by Auguste Rodin, with works by his pupil and muse Camille Claudel, in a former private mansion, with its famous gardens and chapel. Through Sept 21 MapplethorpeRodin, this show juxtaposes the work of the photographer with that of the artist. Tue-Sun 9:30am-5:45pm (last tickets 5:15

Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday

pm), late night Wed until 9pm; garden closes at 5:00 pm. www.musee-rodin.fr. 79 rue de

Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

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BOAT CRUISES BATEAUX-MOUCHES The legendary cruise company has been navigating the Seine for over 60 years. Doubledecker tour boats offer fine vistas of the capital. Savoury lunch and dinner cruises offering classic French cuisine may also be booked. Cruise only: 13.50€ adults, 5.50€ children under 12. Departures every 20 min from 10:15am-10:30pm. www.bateaux-mouches.fr Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau

BATOBUS A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm, boats 17 to 30 minutes apart, depending upon the season. One-day pass 16€, 2-day pass 18€. www.batobus.com. 08.25.05.01.01.

MARIN D’EAU DOUCE Enjoy a spin on the canals of Paris in these environmentally friendly electric boats. This unique concept lets you navigate into neighbourhoods of the French capital through its scenic canals and you don’t need a permit. Fifteen boats that can carry between 5 and 11 people are available for hire. 8-25€ per person depending upon length of rental. www.marindeaudouce.fr Bassin de la Villette, 37 quai de la Seine (19th),

your favourite Disney characters, from Peter Pan

ATTRACTIONS

to Rapunzel. Walt Disney Studios Park offers 4 cinema lots and attractions with a cinematic

06.52.05.13.27. M° Rique

YACHTS DE PARIS The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions. Gourmet dinner cruises nightly boarding at 7:45pm featuring the

AQUARIUM DE PARIS (CINEAQUA)

theme. Disney Dreams! is a magical show of light

Discover the world of the sea at this delightful

gastronomic cuisine of chef Guy Krenzer, who

at nightfall at Sleeping Beauty’s castle. Daily

aquarium. Species from Guyana to the Seine,

was awarded the prestigious finest craftsman of

10am-7pm. Check website for opening hours on

the Mediterranean Sea to the North Sea can

France title. www.yachtsdeparis.fr

day of visit. One park: adults 62€, children 56€

Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70.

(3-11yrs); combined ticket: adults 74€, children

M° Pont de Sully

be found swimming within. Sharks, clownfish, seahorses and eels are among the residents here. Visitors can also enjoy films, educational activities and workshops. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the

66€. www.disneylandparis.com. RER A to Marne La Vallée/Chessy (40-65 min)

month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before

PARC ZOOLOGIQUE DE PARIS

closing, adults: 20.50€, children

This beautiful zoo presents in 16 natural

13-17: 16€, 3-12: 13€. www.cineaqua.com

environments some 1000 animals, birds,

5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23.

mammals, reptiles, amphibians and fish,

M° Iéna

representing 180 species. It is a highly diversified

DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS

collection ranging from predators to colourful

Open 365 days a year, Disneyland Park surrounds

birds and a host of frog and lizard species.

you with all your favourite characters and the

www.parczoologiquedeparis.fr

latest attractions. The fantastic Hollywood Tower

Entrance located at the corner of the ave

will terrify even the least squeamish while Le

Daumesnil and the Route de Ceinture du lac

Festival des Moments Magiques Disney is a host

Daumesnil (12th), 01.40.79.31.25.

of interactive exhibitions and encounters with

M° Château de Vincennes

Batobus

AQUARIUM PHOTO © AQUARIUM DE PARIS; BATOBUS PHOTO © DOMINIQUE MILHEROU & LUC PARIS

Aquarium de Paris

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[ a r t s & at t r a c t i o n s ]

culture time

advertorial

fondation cartier

chÂteau de MalMaison

On October 20, 1984, Cartier created the Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain. The Fondation invites you to join its celebration of 30 years. From May 10 to September 21, 2014, the exhibition Vivid Memories, highlights some of the most emblematic works in the collection of the Fondation Cartier. Open every day, except Monday, from 11am to 8pm Open Tuesday evenings until 10pm.

This delightful mansion, dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, in the outskirts of Paris, was Josephine and Napoleon’s countryside resort. The permanent collections include masterpieces of European painting, superb nineteenth century French furniture and porcelain. A thrilling exhibition is currently on display until June 30. It explores Josephine’s interest for nature, flowers and birds. Avenue du château de Malmaison, 92500 Rueil-Malmaison Tel: +33 (0)1 41 29 05 55 www.chateau-malmaison.fr

261 Bvd Raspail, Paris 14th M° Raspail / Denfert-Rochereau Tel: +33 (0)1 42 18 56 50 www.fondation.cartier.com

MusÉe Maillol

MusÉe du Quai Branly

A museum created by Dina Vierny, the former model and muse of sculptor Aristide Maillol, displaying his sculptures and drawings. Echoing the Monumenta at the Grand Palais, which will host Ilya and Emilia Kabakov, Musée Maillol will open to the public one Kabakov’s most successful installations, until July 20. Daily 10:30am-7pm, Fri until 9:30pm.

The exhibition TATTOO explores the universe of the tattoo through 300 historic and contemporary works and presents previously unseen creations that have been especially conceived for the exhibition by some of the greatest tattoo artists from around the world. From May 6, 2014 through October 18, 2015

59-61 rue de Grenelle, Paris 7th Mº Rue du Bac Tel: +33 (0)1 42 22 59 58 www.museemaillol.com

37 Quai Branly, Paris 7th Mº Alma Marceau Tel: +33 (0)1 56 61 70 00 www.quaibranly.fr w w w.wh eretr aveler.c o m 55

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W h e r e pa r i s

a VieW FrOM The TOp BY saNDra isKaNDEr

f you are visiting the French capital and are looking to experience it, and its surrounding regions, in a unique and luxurious way, you should reserve yourself a seat on the next Airship Paris flight. Boarding the Airship Paris, you are instantly immersed in the voyage you are about to go on. The cabin seats 12 and offers exceptional panoramic views, which gives you a fabulous bird’s eye view of the city’s most famous monuments as you float your way to your destination. With every seat a window seat, you will not miss a thing and once the Airship has taken off you are invited to walk around the cabin and head to the back to look through the rear window and capture it all on camera. With no door between the cabin and the cockpit you will also be able to watch the pilot at work as he flies you over the gorgeous vista. And because the Airship has acoustic and thermal insulation your flight will not be filled with engine noise that will hinder your conversation, on the contrary, it will leave you comfortable to freely converse about how spectacular this experience really is. There are different flights you can choose from including a 30-minute tour, which will take you on a magical journey, floating you through the skies over Auvers-sur-Oise where Van Gogh painted his last works. You can also smoothly make your way in the clouds to the Chateau of Chantilly and see its perfectly manicured gardens created by Le Nôtre. Seats are limited so it is advised to book in advance. Visit www.airship-paris.fr for all booking details.

The Chateau of Chantilly

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/ 3690 - N. Buisson - Alcohol can damage your health, drink with moderation.

AN EXPERIENCE OF FRENCH STYLE LUXURY

An unforgettable moment in the heart of Paris Yachts de Paris combines the spirit of yachting with the French ‘art of living’. Choose absolute luxury aboard the CACHEMIRE for a private dinner or opt for the DON JUAN II restaurant, the charm and discreet elegance of which will win you over. On board, enjoy Chef Guy Krenzer's (‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’) cuisine while you marvel at a spectacle that only Paris can offer. An irresistible voyage beyond time.

EST PORT HENRI IV 75004 PARIS • +33 (0) 1 44 54 14 71 • RESERVATIONS.DJ2@YDP.FR • WWW.YDP.FR • OUEST PORT DE JAVEL HAUT 75015 PARIS

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W H E R E PA R I S The Arc De Triomphe

MONUMENTS

LA CONCIERGERIE A medieval royal residence with Gothic halls, used as a prison in the Revolution. Daily 9:30 am-6pm, times may vary, last tickets, 30 minutes before closing time. Adults 8.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26, free. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01.53.40.60.97. M° Cité EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am.

From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, Stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts). Last entries 45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-15€ for adults) depends on how high you go. A champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01.44.11.23.23. M° Trocadéro HOTEL DES INVALIDES Built by Louis XIV as a hospital for veteran soldiers. Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The historic monument houses an interesting military museum. Don’t miss the permanent collection rooms in the East wing. Through Jun 1 Les soldats du stade, looks at the relationship between the armed forces and sports through photographs and documents. Through Jul 14 Mousquetaires!, takes a look at the heroes who inspired Alexandre Dumas. Daily 10am-6pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing. 9.50€. www.invalides.org. Place des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Invalides NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours

in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Through Dec 31 Paris disparu, Paris restitué, looks at the history of Paris through the vestiges from Lutèce to the 19th century (in the crypt). www.crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr-Jun and Sep: 10am-5:45pm; Oct-Mar: 10am-4:45pm. 7.50€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01.42.34.56.10. M° Cité SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5:45pm. www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9:30am-6pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01.53.40.60.97. M° Cité

PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - AMÉLIE DUPONT

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-11pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01.55.37.73.77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle–Etoile

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TRADE SHOWS PORTES OUVERTES Jun 14-15 2pm to 8pm. During this gathering some 100 artists in the scenic village of Le Pré Saint-Gervais just east of Paris open up their studios to the public. The event is an invitation to discover charming urban architecture filled with lofts, studios and courtyard gardens. The show is put on by the artist’s collective Ateliers-Est and offers a glimpse into the creative world of artists, their techniques and works in progress. Welcome point Place du general Leclerc, 93310 Le Pré Saint-Gervais. M° Hoche/Porte des Lilas NATURALLY Jun13-16 10:30am-7pm, until 10pm on the 13th. This show is a tribute to natural and holistic living. You’ll find organic foods, health and beauty products, home furnishings and objects as well as nature-oriented activities. www.vivez-nature.com. Paris Expo, blvd Victor, Porte De Versailles (15th), M° Porte de Versailles

SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA MAISON DE POUPEE Jun 22 from 10am-5:30pm. This delightful show brings together some 100 exhibitors offering a wide range of craft miniatures from around the world, enabling both collectors and newcomers to journey into the wonderful world of dollhouses. www.simp-paris.com.

Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte Champerret (17th), 01.39.16.08.31. M° Porte de Champerret SKATE ME OUT Jun14-15 12-10pm. This unique show brings together a fine selection of fashion, art works and music from some 120 creators in a friendly environment where the public can meet with the artists. This year a new feature, the world of skate boarding, is part of the event providing fun for all. Happenings, workshops, a photo exhibition and food tastings are held during the event while vintage and design are also on the agenda. Carreau du Temple, 2 rue Eugène Spulller (3rd). M° Temple

SKATE ME OUT POSTER © DR

PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - AMÉLIE DUPONT

[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

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W H E R E PA R I S

DINING

LE GRAND BISTRO DE BRETEUIL For an authentic bistro meal where you can sample French cuisine and a family-friendly ambiance, Le Grand Bistro de Breteuil is a great table also offering an outdoor seating area from where you can take in the hustle and bustle of the chic 7th arrondissement. Open daily from midday to midnight and situated just a few minutes-walk from the Eiffel Tower, this chic bistro is an ideal spot for an alfresco lunch after a morning of sightseeing. Bistro classics such as a beef tartar and foie gras are on the menu as well as a cheese platter and a flaming crème brûlée to end your meal on a very sweet French note. The elegant bistro also offers a 44€ “Signature Menu” for both lunch and dinner that includes an aperitif, starter, main and dessert as well as a bottle of wine and coffee. – S.I. 3 place Breteuil (7th), 01 45 67 07 27

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LE CHARDENOUX DES PRES When visiting the French capital most people long for that postcard moment of sitting in a café and savouring a real Parisian moment. And in the ultra-Parisian neighbourhood of SaintGermain is where you will find an authentic Parisian bistro where you can enjoy a hearty meal with a good glass of wine. Le Chardenoux des Prés is Cyril Lignac’s second bistro, and the Michelin-starred chef has put together a menu that stays true to the traditional French fare served in authentic bistros. A terrine of foie gras served with roasted hazelnuts, Black Angus steak served with béarnaise sauce and homemade potato puree and a fricassee of veal sweetbreads served with a puree of carrot are only some of the dishes that could be found on the menu, which constantly changes depending on available produce and on the season. However, there are three things that are regulars on the menu, the chef’s famous salted butter caramel éclair, the rich French toast made from homemade brioche bread served with caramel and ice-cream and the little Madeleine sponge cakes, which are served hot, straight from the oven to accompany your café. Open daily for lunch and dinner Le Chardenoux des Prés is a great address for great food and family-friendly service. - S.I. 27 rue du Dragon (6th), 01 45 48 29 68

THE GUIDELINES

LE CHARDENOUX DES PRÈS DINING ROOM PHOTO © YANN DERET

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. GENERAL INFORMATION Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. Value Added Tax (VAT, written in French as TVA) is automatically included in the bill, as is the service charge. While tipping is not compulsory, it is appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner. AE: American Express, V: Visa, MC: Mastercard PRICES Set Meals: Prices are per person. A la carte: Price per person for three courses without wine. € – 30€ or less per person €€ – 31€-50€ per person €€€ – 51€-100€ per person €€€€ – 101€-150€ per person €€€€€ – 151€ and above per person

PRIVE DE DESSERT In the bobo arrondissement of the French capital is one of the most original concept restaurants you will find. Privé de Dessert serves a contemporary cuisine menu with all dishes named and served like popular French desserts. Every pastry you ever dreamed of tasting is here, the millefeuille, the éclair and even the Saint-Honoré, with the only difference being that they are the savoury versions of the popular sweet treats. The millefeuille is a light pastry topped with cherry tomatoes and creamy burrata while the éclair is an entree gambas and avocado sandwich. The Saint-Honoré appears on the main dishes menu and is the house's version of a burger complete with a cheddar cheese-flavoured whipped cream and served with churros-shaped fries. The SaintHonoré is also available for vegetarians with the meat patty replaced with a tofu and vegetables patty. For diners who actually love their desserts sweet, don't fret as the menu also features yummy sweets including a Carambar-flavoured crème brûlée and a chocolate mi-cuit with a melting Chocobon heart. The staff is friendly, the music is good time oldies and the decor is cosy and retro. - S.I. Open for dinner only 4 rue Lallier (9th), 01 45 26 84 43 w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 61

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DUCASSE DINING in the dining room that is inspired by the salon de la Paix at the Versailles chateau, complete with antique mirrors, crystal chandeliers and luxurious marble and bronze detailing, a refined cuisine awaits. Created by alain Ducasse and elegantly executed by chef Christophe saintagne, the menu at the Le Meurice restaurant features contemporary French dishes which include an original fruit and vegetable salad to start, colourful and flavoursome, it delightfully surprises with its mixture of sweetness. For main courses you will find grilled sea bass with a hint of citrus for flavour and olives and a spicy lamb dish served with artichokes. Desserts are equally refined with pastry chef Cédric Grolet creating a delicious palette of flavours, including the Noisette, a tasting of hazelnut-flavoured desserts featuring a soufflé with a heart of liquid praline. This is a wonderful table to sample simple yet exquisitely refined French cuisine in a glorious setting. – s.i. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from Monday to Friday only. Reservations are highly recommended. Le Meurice 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 10

BRASSERIE DU LOUVRE Just steps from the Palais Royal and the Louvre Museum, savour a delicious lunch or dinner in a delightful setting. The homemade foie gras is excellent and the risotto, one of the best in Paris. Classics, like sole meunière or braised lamb with carrots are cooked to perfection. Sweet desserts, friendly service and an excellent wine list round out the experience. Daily B&L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) 1 Place André Malraux (1st), 01.44.58.37.21. M° Palais Royal LE SOUFFLE This is the place to taste one of France's finest specialties, the soufflé. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of soufflés, a classic French menu is proposed. Reservations are highly recommended. Mon-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V)

www.lesouffle.fr 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. M° Concorde L’ESCARGOT MONTORGUEIL Within the authentic, beautiful walls of Second Empire decor delect truly fine food. Snails, of course remain a specialty with the freshest of fish or hearty meat dishes following. Classic desserts like crepes Suzette and Grand Marnier soufflé are prepared to perfection. Daily L&D. €€€€ (AE, Diners, JCB, V) www.escargot-montorgueil.com 38 rue Montorgueil (1st), 01.42.36.83.51. M° Etienne Marcel CAFE DE LA PAIX This classic Parisian institution with its décor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is fea-

tured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all). www.cafedelapaix.fr 5 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. M° Opéra CHEZ JULIEN Fine seasonal and regional products are served in a charming Belle Epoque atmosphere. Offerings can include Bresse chicken with potatoes from the isle of Noirmoutier. Marble tables, woodwork by Majorelle and a view out onto the Saint Gervais church, the Seine and Notre Dame beyond add to the fine dining experience. Daily L&D. €€ (MC, V). www.maisonthierrycostes.com 1 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe (4th), 01.42.78.31.64. M° Pont Marie

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CARETTE Café With its mirrors and marble-topped tables, this is a quintessentially Parisian spot for lunch or a tasty pastry and rich hot chocolate. French breakfast pastries, delicious salads and sandwiches are served and you can take it all away with you, too. Daily continuous service B&L. € (MC, V). www.carette-paris.com. 4 place du Trocadéro (16th) , 01.47.27.98.85. M° Rue de la Pompe/Trocadéro

BISTROS AND CAFES When visiting Paris a bistro or a traditional French café meal is a must. Here are our favourite go-to spots for the month. L’AMI LOUIS Bistro A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. €€€€€ (V) 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd) 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers BENOIT Bistro Taken over, spruced up and enlarged by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse, a classic 1912 bistro that’s a favourite of (very) affluent tourists for its traditional French cuisine that includes cassoulet, beef in Beaujolais, sole Grenobloise and an iced soufflé with Grand Marnier. Daily L&D. €€€€ (AE, V) 20 rue St-Martin (4th), 01.42.72.25.76. M° Châtelet LE CAFE DE L’ALMA Contemporary Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The

LA FONTAINE DE MARS Bistro A lively old-fashioned bistro serving such traditional French specialties as eggplant with goat cheese, mushroom pâté, cassoulet, and the house specialty, a prune and apple tart. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 129 rue St-Dominique (7th), 01.47.05.46.44. M° Ecole Militaire

menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. €€ (AE, DC, MC, V). www.cafe-de-l-alma.com. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. M° Alma-Marceau

LA PALETTE Café This legendary Left Bank café still draws a clientele of local art students, gallery owners and national and international celebrities. Both its exterior and interior facades are listed historic monuments. Specialties include various farm fresh egg preparations and beef tartare. A nice selection of wines by the bottle or glass is available. Daily B,L,D. €€ (MC, V). www.cafelapaletteparis.com. 43 rue de Seine (6th), 01.43.26.68.15. M° Mabillon/St-Germain-des-Prés

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A little tartare on the terrace

Watch out, in the shadows of Paris’s terraces, more than one tartare may be lurking, lying in wait for you! Get out your finest sunglasses and follow this guide.

Les Grandes Marches www.grandes-marches.com

L’Auberge Dab www.auberge-dab.com 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th - Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 Open 7 days a week from 12 noon to 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available Chez André www.chez-andre.com

12, rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th - Tel. 01 47 20 59 57 Open 7 days a week from 12 noon - 1am

Le Congrès Maillot www.congres-maillot.com 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 Open 7 days a week from 7.30am to 2am Valet parking available

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Shutterstock

6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th - Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available

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Epicure

114 FAUBOURG Brasserie An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a millefeuille with salty caramel sauce. Daily L & D. €€€ (cards: all) 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th),01.53.43.44.44. M° Miromesnil L’ABEILLE Gourmet This two-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers a sophisticated menu of French gastronomic cuisine created by talented chef Philippe Labbé. In the elegant dining area enjoy dishes such as royal scampi steamed with lemon cream and flavoured with walnut oil and roasted coffee. Tues-Sat, D. €€€€€ (cards: all). 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna APICIUS Contemporary The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule LE CINQ Gourmet Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all)

FINE DINING Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V LA CUISINE Classic French. Light, flavourful food is served in this one-star restaurant inside the Royal Monceau hotel. The warm atmosphere with sparkling chandeliers includes an open kitchen to watch the chefs prepare the market-based offerings. The dishes are flavoured with herbs grown in the hotel’s first floor botanical gardens and desserts are made by Pierre Hermé. B & D: Daily, L: Mon-Fri, Brunch: Sat & Sun. €€€€ (cards: all). www.leroyalmonceau.com. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.98.80. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile LE DIANE Gourmet This Michelin one-star restaurant inside the Fouquet’s Barrière Hotel offers a peaceful setting and a secluded terrace. Chef JeanYves Leuranguer has conceived a range of colourful gourmet dishes which might include oysters served with quail eggs and cavair and a mandarin soufflé. Fine and rare vintage wines are found on the wine list. Daily B,L,D, Sat B&D only. Sun-Mon B only. €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.40. M° George V EPICURE Gourmet The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Fréchon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent

Jeannin. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil LE GRAND VEFOUR Modern Classic The opulent two-star Relais & Chateaux restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri L only. €€€€(Cards: all) 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal HELENE DARROZE Southwestern French Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. €€€. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone LAURENT Gourmet. This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Signature dishes include spider crab with fennel cream and squid cannelloni. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only. €€€€ (AE, Diners, MC, V). 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau RELAIS LOUIS XIII Classic French In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious

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dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St Michel LE RESTAURANT Neo-Baroque In the legendary hotel called L’Hotel, the neoBaroque one-star restaurant is where head chef Julien Montabut prepares seasonal and classically French cuisine with a distinctive light and modern touch. Dishes include pan fried scallops with girolle mushrooms for a starter or a main course of line sea bass roasted with spices. Daily B Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.01. Mº Odéon LA SCENE Gourmet This one-star restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. Among the appetisers are white Alba truffles or duck foie gras. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milkfed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. For dessert try the mint or vanilla-based treats. Mon-Sat B,L & D, Sun Brunch. €€€€ (cards: all). 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. M° George V LE SERGENT RECRUTEUR Gourmet This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. €€€ (AE, MC, V). 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Isle (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. Mº Pont Marie

  DURAND DUPONT FRENCH CUISINE

4Open 4 4O Open pen everyday, service non stop from 8am to 2am 4 4Brunch Brunch every Sunday 4Patio available4Afterwork DJ’s 4 Patio and terrace available Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with DJ D J’s ’s

Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes.

Start with the crayfish salad with artichokes and mustard before ordering the seared scallops served with vegetables and finish your meal with a fresh fruit salad with frozen yoghurt.

14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine) / Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: 01 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com

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Le Train Bleu

TRAIN TABLES BY saNDra isKaNDEr

depicting rail network sites and events that

train to a romantic destination in France, it's not

took place in 1900. Serving classic French fare,

always easy to find a nice table to enjoy good

including foie gras and roasted scallops, the

food while waiting. This month we bring you a

restaurant offers an opulent experience that

round-up of the best train station restaurants

was once appreciated by Coco Chanel and

in the French capital.

Brigitte Bardot. Le Train Bleu also features a bar,

At Gare Saint Lazare is where you can eat

Le Big Ben Bar, where you can enjoy a sage cup

at any time, day or night, at the Eric Fréchon

of tea or a relaxing cocktail before boarding

bistro, Lazare. The chic bistro serves traditional

your train.

dishes such as escargots, boeuf bourguignon

And if you’re at Gare du Nord waiting to jump

and a hearty entrecote. And if you are feeling

onto the Eurostar to head to London, Terminus

just a little bit peckish and need an afternoon

Nord is a delightful brasserie for a quick

snack you can indulge in a piece of marble cake

bite. Just across the road from the station,

or a simple chocolate crepe with a cup of tea or

the brasserie serves fresh seafood and more

a glass of wine.

traditional brasserie fare such as an entrecote

If you're at Gare de Lyon the splendid Le

steak served with béarnaise sauce and fries.

Train Bleu awaits. The magnificent Belle

The brasserie, which has been serving travellers

Epoque restaurant is nestled on the first floor

since 1925 features an Art Nouveau décor and a

of the train station and features 41 paintings

very animated ambiance.

Lazare

ADDRESSES LAzArE Parvis de la Gare Saint-Lazare Rue Intérieure (8th), 01 44 90 80 80 LE TrAIn BLEu Gare de Lyon 1st floor Place Louis Armand (12th), 01 43 43 09 06 TErMInuS nOrd 23 rue de Dunkerque (10th), 01 42 85 05 15

ORIENT EXPRESS It may not be a train station but the Institut du Monde Arabe is hosting the legendary Orient Express that will take you on a magical voyage. Coinciding with the cultural centre’s exhibition, Once Upon a Time the Orient Express, is the opening of the ephemeral restaurant in the middle of the Institut du Monde Arabe’s square. Celebrated French chef, Yannick Alléno is at the helm of this mythical gastronomical voyage, serving a decadent dinner in one of the Orient Express’s carriages. If you love the romance of the legendary Orient Express and take pleasure in French cuisine then you will, without a doubt, appreciate this unique experience. Orient Express by Yannick Alléno The restaurant is open in the evening for dinner only, Tuesday to Saturday. Online reservations only at www.yannick-alleno.com Institut du Monde Arabe 1 rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard (5th)

Lazare photo © aLain geLberger; orient express photo © Jérôme gaLLand

If you get hungry while you’re about to catch a

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Sushi, sashimi, donburi, tempura featuring organic salmon

CLASSIC JAPANESE CUISINE IN AN ELEGANT SAINT-GERMAIN SETTING

DEBAUVE & GALLAIS

LAZARE PHOTO © ALAIN GELBERGER; ORIENT EXPRESS PHOTO © JÉRÔME GALLAND

One of the best things to do while visiting France is to indulge in fine French chocolate and one of the finest chocolatiers is Debauve & Gallais. It is the French chocolate manufacturer that supplied fine chocolate to Emperor Napoléon and kings Louis XVII, Charles X and Louis Philippe after receiving the royal warrant and becoming the official chocolate supplier to the French court. And in the chocolatier’s Left Bank boutique you can get a taste of the same chocolate that was once served to royalty. Try the chocolate truffles or the Marie-Antoinette’s Pistoles, the dark chocolate disks that are delicately flavoured with coffee or vanilla, or why not opt for a chocolate box with different chocolates to devour. - S.I 30 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01 45 48 54 67

Sushi & Song - Thursday nights Terrance sings The American Songbook in the style of

TONY BENNETT Sheldon Forrest, Keyboard Monday-Saturday, Lunch & Dinner / Dinner from 8pm. Showtime 9:15pm 6 rue Montfaucon, Paris 6 th (Metro: Mabillon, Odéon) Reservations: +33 (0)1 43 26 37 62 / www.shinseki-restaurant.fr

Complimentary coupe de champagne when presenting this page

RATN

INDIANÊ MOGHOLÊ GASTRONOMYÊ 4TheÊ MagicÊ ofÊ India,Ê openÊ everyÊ day,Ê 12pmÊ -Ê 2.45pmÊ /Ê Ê 7.15pm-11.45pm 4RecommendedÊ byÊ Michelin,Ê GaultÊ Millau,Ê Pudlo,Ê Bottin 4BusinessÊ lunch,Ê airÊ conditioned

SinceÊ 1976,Ê theÊ BhallaÊ family,Ê originallyÊ fromÊ NewÊ Delhi,Ê excelsÊ inÊ IndianÊ MogholÊ GastronomyÊ ofÊ theÊ 17thÊ centuryÊ andÊ immortalisesÊ theÊ beautifulÊ northÊ IndianÊ culinaryÊ traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries.

9Ê rueÊ deÊ laÊ Tremoille,Ê ParisÊ 8thÊ (Metro:Ê GeorgeÊ V)Ê Ê Ê -Ê Ê Ê Tel:Ê 01Ê 40Ê 70Ê 01Ê 09

www.restaurantratn.com

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SUNDAY BRUNCH

The brunch buffet served every Sunday at the Fouquet’s Barrière Hotel takes you on a tasting voyage with a variety of dishes to satisfy your every taste bud mood. The brunch is sprawled over three spaces, Le Diane restaurant, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, the garden terrace and Le Lucien, the hotel’s bar. Fresh bread, croissants and pains au chocolat will start you on a sweet note and if you prefer, there is a pancake and crepe stand from where you can create your own stack. A Middle Eastern corner is set up with

mountains of delicious hummus dip, stuffed vine leaves and tabouli salad and for patrons who seek gluten-free dishes, creamy burrata, fresh prawns and bbq skewers, prepared on the terrace, are only some of the delicious options available. Don’t forget to leave room for the dessert buffet where you will find La Petite Maison de Nicole restaurant’s signature white chocolate mousse served with raspberries and tiramisu. - S.I. Every Sunday from 12.30-3.30pm 46 ave George V (8th), 01 40 69 60 60

BISTROT RICHELIEU In the heart of Paris, between Bourse and Palais-Royal, is where you will find the traditional Parisian bistro, Bistrot Richelieu. In a convivial and warm ambiance, the staff will welcome you with hearty and authentic French dishes that will have you appreciating Parisian bistro dining. The menu features all the signature dishes that you imagine sampling when visiting the gastronomical capital such as escargots, onion soup and foie gras. For mains you will find an entrecote served with a béarnaise sauce and fries and magret de canard (duck) and if you want something a little bit lighter try the large goat cheese salad. For dessert a traditional crème brûlée and meringue lemon tart will leave you feeling sweetly satisfied. - S.I. Open Monday to Friday and Saturday evenings 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01 42 60 19 16 68 W H E R E Pa r i s i J U N E 2014

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thisthis mythical mythical Japanese Japanese restaurant restaurant hashas been been Specializing Specializing in tandoori in tandoori (Indian (Indian barbecue) barbecue) 01 01 454567 07 0727 27 Gilles 01 01 45 450303141484 84 01 01 47spicy 47 63 63 32 32 77 77in in re-designed re-designed by67 by the the architects architects Gilles & Boissier. & Boissier. andand curries, curries, both both spicy andand mild, mild, served served Chef Chef Ozuru, Ozuru, formerly formerly of Nobu of Nobu Paris, Paris, prepares prepares beautiful beautiful surroundings surroundings with with silksilk paintings paintings Japanese Japanese gastronomy gastronomy thatthat brings brings together together thethe andand antique-style antique-style carved carved wooden wooden crafts. crafts. traditional traditional andand thethe modern. modern.

colorful colorful cuisine cuisine from from thethe South. South. 0101 4545 74 74 33 3332 32 Great Great mozzarella mozzarella di bufala, di bufala, burrata, burrata,

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Enjoy Enjoy aa complimentary complimentary glass glass ofof Champagne Champagne upon upon presentation presentation ofof this this page. page.

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W H E R E PA R I S

FEASTING IN THE

WILD WOODS

La Grande Cascade It was once the celebrated royal forest of Rouvray teeming with game that attracted the

GOURMET

hunting parties of successive kings of France. Dagobert, King of the Franks, was hunting bear and deer there already back in the 7th century.

B Y PAT R I C I A V A L I C E N T I

Today the Bois de Boulogne is not only a haven

snails from Burgundy and fresh cod. The

for nature, but fine food as well, fit for a king.

building with its Normandy-style architecture

A magical dining experience is found at the Pré Catelan, an elegant 3-star Michelin establishment that is found inside a

was frequented by Napoleon III and his entourage. This month the roses are in full bloom in

sumptuous pavilion dating back to Napoleon

the gardens of the Parc de Bagatelle where

III surrounded by a stunning park riddled

peacocks roam and flowers emerge in

with greenery. Dishes are perfectly executed

profusion around a belvedere. At the Les

around the most aristocratic of products by

Jardins de Bagatelle restaurant, located in

chef Frédéric Anton, who has been awarded

the park, excellent classic French food is

the finest craftsman of France title. Crayfish is

served and while the menu can change with

prepared in ravioli served in a broth of olive

the seasons, dishes can include marinated

oil flavoured with pepper and mint while the

salmon or a delicious homemade foie gras for

artichoke becomes melodious sautéed in

a refreshing starter. It’s also a great place just to

herbs.

sip some champagne.

One of the special features of the Bois

In the heart of the children’s amusement park,

Boulogne is its waterfall, the Grande Cascade,

the Jardin d’Acclimatation, the Pavillon des

and in a beautiful setting nearby on the Allée

Oiseaux serves delightful lunches and a fine

de Longchamp sits the aptly named La Grande

buffet brunch on Sundays featuring miniature

Cascade restaurant serving gourmet fare in

crepes, smoked salmon, eggs and bacon, a host

what was once a hunting pavilion of Napoleon

of salads and a children’s menu, all followed by

Bonaparte. Perfectly prepared specialties in

a dessert-laden buffet table.

this Michelin one-star restaurant include crab

Festively located on the Bois de Boulogne’s

salad with a refined aspic, turbot flavoured

largest lake is the Chalet des Iles serving

with thyme and lemon and rack of lamb.

delicious fare in a summer boat outing

Nearby serving traditional French fare is

atmosphere. There are plenty of fish dishes on

L’Auberge du Bonheur with a magnificent

the agenda including tartar of sea bass and

garden where refreshing salads and grilled

Provence-style sea bream. The restaurant also

meats are served. Classics on the menu include

features a children’s menu.

Brunch at the Pavillon des Oiseaux

ADDRESSES LE PRÉ CATELAN Bois de Boulogne Route de Suresnes (16th), 01 44 14 41 14 LA GRANDE CASCADE Allée de Longchamp (16th), 01 45 27 33 51 L’AUBERGE DU BONHEUR Allée de Longchamp (16th), 01 42 24 10 17 LES JARDINS DE BAGATELLE 42 route de Sèvres from Neuilly (16th), 01 40 67 98 29 LE PAVILLON DES OISEAUX Jardin d’Acclimatation (16th), 01 45 02 11 61 CHALET DES ILES Lac Inférieur du Bois de Boulogne, Porte de la Muette (16th), 01 42 88 04 60

70 W H E R E PA R I S I J U N E 2014

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[address book]

dining g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CAmboDiAnVietnAmese-LAotiAn (€€). A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde Aux LYonnAis - bistro (€€). A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot beef CLub - bistro (€€€). As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel bistro VoLnAY - bistrot (€€€). Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra bistrot riCheLieu - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Be tempted by the breast of duck in fig sauce or the sea bass in basil cream. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal DjAkArtA bALi - inDonesiAn (€). An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli Goust - Gourmet (€€€). Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. The menus change regularly but dishes can include tuna tartar with mango sauce or prawns with mushrooms. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra kinuGAwA - jApAnese (€€€). Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries Le bAuDeLAire - meDiterrAneAn (€€€). At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier

prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Stéphane Tranchet prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine Le Costes - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Très chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor and plenty of attitude. The food’s okay but the star-studded scene’s the thing. Pretty interior patio. Daily B, L, D. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Mº Tuileries wiLLi’s wine bAr - bistrot (€€). This convivial establishment, popular with wine lovers, serves perfectly prepared fresh seasonal fare from a menu that changes daily. You can also dine at the long polished oak bar. The restaurant offers a diverse and delicious selection of wines served by the glass or bottle. Reservations are strongly recommended. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 13 rue des Petits Champs (1st), 01.42.61.05.09. M° Pyramides Le GrAnD Vefour - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€). The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal Le LAmfé - CLAssiC frenCh (€).Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Refined appetizers, like a classic marrow bone, are followed by fine beef dishes including a noble rib steak. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet Le meuriCe-ALAin DuCAsse - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€€). A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 3-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries Le LouChebem - bistro (€). Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles Le restAurAnt Du pALAis roYAL - Gourmet (€€). Fine fare is prepared by the talented chef Eric Fontanini in this gastronomic restaurant overlooking the gardens of the Palais Royal. Seasonal cuisine and exceptional products are hallmarks of the menu, which changes regularly. Perfectly executed dishes from the classical repertoire can include Turbot Dugléré and breaded sweetbreads. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Bourse Le souffLé - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties,

the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde pAssAGe 53 - bistro (€€€). Japanese chef Shinichi Sato prepares superb French cuisine with a light Japanese touch using the finest of ingredients, like meat from Desnoyer. Located in the oldest covered arcade in town, this two-star restaurant offers an authentically Parisian experience. Tues-Sat. L&D. 53 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01.42.33.04.35. Mº Grands Boulevards LA tour De montLhérY-Chez Denise bistro (€€). This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Don juAn ii - Gourmet (€€€€). The Don Juan II is filled with the charm and elegance of a great yacht, offering a delicious cruise through the heart of Paris. In a calm and luxurious atmosphere enjoy the gastronomic cuisine of Guy Krenzer, who has been awarded the finest craftsman of France title. Daily D. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.45.14.71. M° Sully-Morland GeorGes - worLD Cuisine (€€€). Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau L’Ambroisie - hAute Cuisine (€€€€€). In a beautiful 17th-century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul Le serGent reCruteur - Gourmet (€€€). This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie minimes - brAsserie (€€€). This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L&D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert nos AnCÊtres Les GAuLois - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) ALC AzAr - br Asserie (€€€). English restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 72 W H E R E Pa r i s i J U N E 2014

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for more detailed listings, go to wheretraveler.com/paris

breAkfAst in AmeriCA - AmeriCAn (€). For a traditional American diner serving classic burgers and breakfasts, including pancakes with real maple syrup. Daily 8:30 am-11 pm. 17 rue des Ecoles (5th), 01.43.54.50.28. Mº Cardinal Lemoine CAfé De fLore - bistrot (€€). The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés CAfé Des Deux mAGots - CAfé (€€). The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The corner location facing the church makes it slightly more touristy than the rival Café de Flore, and prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 place Saint-Germain (6 th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GuY mArtin itALiA - itALiAn (€€€). Antipasti, cold meats and marinated vegetables are delightful starters in this authentic Italian restaurant established by Guy Martin. Chef Fabrizio La Mantia prepares a safran risotto and roast swordfish to perfection. Daily L&D. 19 rue Bréa (6th), 01.43.27.08.80. Mº Vavin héLène DArroze - southwestern frenCh (€€). Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone LA LoCAnDA - itALiAn (€€). Rediscover favourite Italian classics from throughout the peninsula in this comfortable and chic restaurant in Saint Germain des Prés. Superb antipasti dishes as well as pasta “al dente” (home-made ravioli, lasagna and gnocchi). Fish and seafood direct from the sea and “tartufo” specialties every day. Excellent selection of Italian wines (Barolo, Brunello, Tignanello). Daily L&D. 8 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.44.12.53. M° St Germain des Prés LApérouse - Gourmet (€€€). This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel LA tour D’ArGent - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€€€). A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité LA truffière - southwestern frenCh (€€€). Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th-century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

shinseki - jApAnese (€€). Enjoy classic Japanese food in an elegant Saint Germain setting. Sushi, sashimi, donburi and tempura are among the highlights on the menu and the salmon is organic. Excellent French wines are part of the dining experience. Enjoy a complimentary glass of champagne upon presentation of this page. MonSat L&D. 6 rue Montfaucon (6th), 01.43.26.37.62. M° Mabillon/Odéon

©N. Buisson

Au mouLin à Vent - bistro (€€). This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Among the authentic offerings are prime rib with Béarnaise sauce, calf’s liver and frog legs. A delightful dessert is the Baba au rhum. Valet parking. Tues–Fri L&D/ Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu

Le montpArnAsse 1900 - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue/Vavin

Don juAn ii See page 72

tAokAn - Chinese (€€€). Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Main courses include whole sole served with ginger soy marinade or duck in Hoisin sauce with dainty pancakes. Valet parking available. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice ze kitChen GALerie - fusion (€€). Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th)

tAokAn See this page

58 tour eiffeL - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire ArpeGe - ContemporArY (€€€€€). Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne juLes Verne - hAute Cuisine (€€€€). This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

©Francesca Mantovani

fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon

Le restAurAnt Du pALAis roYAL See page 72

L’Ami jeAn - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg L’AteLier De joeL robuChon - bistro (€€€). The 2-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. No reservations, and sometimes a long wait outside. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac Le bistrot Du 7e - bistro (€). A pleasant bistrot with a terrace serving traditional French cuisine at reasonable prices. Specialties include lobster terrine and duck breast, dinner is by candlelight. Daily L&D. 56 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01.45.51.93.08. Mº La Tour Maubourg

héLène DArroze See this page

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 73

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[address book]

g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Le Café de L’aLma - Contemporary (€€). Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. Mº Alma-Marceau Les ombres - Contemporary (€€€€). The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAmps-elysées (8th) 114 faubourg - brasserie (€€€). An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a millefeuille with salty caramel sauce. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil 39V - Contemporary (€€€). This glamorous onestar restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Try the delicious white wine from the Greek island of Tinos. Valet parking in the evening. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V apiCius - Contemporary (€€€€). The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule bateaux-mouChes - CLassiC frenCh (€€€). Savour homemade duck foie gras with cocoa and ginger to start then try the turbot with vegetable tagliatelle from the Excellence dinner menu. Vegetarian dishes are available, too. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays for lunch at 1pm. Passengers must arrive prior to departure times. Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau Chez andré - bistro (€€). Superb, authentic bistro cuisine just steps away from the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy solid traditional French food highlighting regional meats of France and the freshest of fish in a cosy setting. Daily, continuous service L&D. 12 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.20.59.57. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt epiCure - gourmet (€€€€€). The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil fauChon Le Café - gourmet (€€). This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Offering a great view of Place de la Madeleine. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L&D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine Le 68 par guy martin - CLassiC frenCh (€€). Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V/Franklin D. Roosevelt

apiCius See this page L’astor - gourmet (€€€). Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. MonFri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin Le Cinq - gourmet (€€€€€). Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth and milk-fed lamb with Espelette pepper. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow in this 2-star establishment. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V La tabLe du LanCaster - fusion (€€€€). This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Dishes can include herb-roasted saddle of lamb for a starter followed by sole with chives. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V Le piChet de paris - CLassiC frenCh (€€€). This quintessential Parisian eating establishment serves classic French fare in a warm setting. Specialities include superb seafood, perfectly prepared fish dishes like fresh cod with olive oil and basil and rack of lamb. Homemade pastries are featured on the dessert menu. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 68 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.43.59.50.34. Mº George V Le safran - gourmet (€€€). Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. The piano is played on Saturday evenings and Sunday brunch comes complete with free entertainment for children. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles maison bLanChe - Contemporary (€€€€). Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau ratn - indian (€€€). Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V santoor - indian (€). Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food

including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt saVy - brasserie (€€). A popular table for journalists, fashion designers and show business people, this establishment offers authentic and traditional French cuisine in a 1930’s art deco decor. The house specialty is Aubrac beef and the house has a fine selection of vintage millesimes wines. Mon-Fri, B, L&D. 23 rue Bayard (8th), 01.47.23.46.98. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt zen garden - Chinese (€€). The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. The relaxing atmosphere is perfect for savouring gastronomic Chinese cuisine. Daily L&D. 15 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Around opérA GArnIer & pIGAlle (9th, 10th,18th) bouiLLon Chartier - CLassiC frenCh (€). The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hardboiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards Café de La paix - CLassiC frenCh (€€€). This classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L&D. 5 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra Le Café pouChKine - Café (€). This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Excellent hot chocolate and authentic Russian beverages are all on the agenda. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin Le LumiÈre - gourmet (€€€). Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L&D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 74 W H E R E Pa r i s i J U N E 2014

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for more dining destinations , go to wheretraveler.com/paris

L’operA restAurAnt - ContemporArY (€€€). Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood. Young chef Yann Tanneau serves traditional dishes with a twist and changes his menu regularly though keeping the house dessert, l’Opera. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra wepLer - brAsserie (€). Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) bLue eLephAnt - thAi (€€€). Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. The team of Thai chefs prepares jumbo shrimp soup with lemon grass and lamb Massamam among other specialties. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille septime - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Traditional French fare featuring inventive market-based cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. TuesFri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne L’epiCerie sAint-sAbin - southwestern frenCh (€€). You can enjoy savoury specialities from the southwest of France in this cosy restaurant in the Bastille neighbourhood. Continuous service Tues, Wed 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-9pm, Fri 10am-10pm, Sat 10am-9pm, Sun 10am-2pm. 13 rue Saint-Sabin (11th), 09.67.29.89.33. Mº Bastille/ Breguet Sabin Les GrAnDes mArChes - brAsserie (€€). A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Tuck into a tasty French onion soup or foie gras to start, followed by cod fillet in a lemon butter sauce or a prime cut of beef. Daily B, L&D. 6 place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille Le trAin bLeu - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon

Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th)

Le GAstroquet - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles SaintJacques. Main courses include sautéed turbot and veal liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced mousse whiskey and Baileys is an original dessert choice. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles Le quinzieme - fusion (€€€). One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy, (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel

Les GrAnDes mArChes See this page

troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th) bon - fusion (€€€). Asian inspiration and international influences abound in this restaurant styled like a private home and decorated by Philippe Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of rolls, or a Dim Sum for starters then move onto black cod or sole tempura. Daily L&D. 25 rue de la Pompe (16th), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette CristAL room bACCArAt - moDern CLAssiC (€€€). A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L&D, reservations only. 11 pl des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. Mº Boissière Le GrAnD bistro sAint ferDinAnD - bistro (€€). This family-style bistro specialises in an allinclusive menu with aperitif, starter, main course, dessert, coffee and bottle of wine for two. Oysters, foie gras, wild sole and duckling from Challans are all on the agenda. Daily L&D. 275 blvd Pereire (17th), 01.45.74.33.32. M° Porte Maillot

Le CAfé De L’ALmA See page 74

jAmin - CLAssiC frenCh (€€). The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Alain and David welcome you to enjoy a market-oriented menu. Highlights include authentic snails from Burgundy and blanquette, traditional rich French veal stew. Reservations highly recommended. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro L’AuberGe DAb - CLAssiC frenCh (€€€). Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot

Le bAr à huÎtres - seAfooD (€€€). This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin

monsieur bLeu - ContemporArY (€€). This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate juice. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Le CieL De pAris - Gourmet (€€€). Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, opt for a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in their Champagne Bar. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse

shAnG pALACe - Chinese (€€€€). This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

Le CieL De pAris See this page

Le bAr A huÎtres See this page

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 75

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W H E R E PA R I S

ENTERTAINMENT BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

LES SAINTS PERES In the 70s, the Saints Pères nightclub was the club to head to after midnight, with a list of who’s who that frequented the SaintGermain hot spot, including Orson Welles, Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. Today, the mythical space is back and is fast-becoming the French capital’s hottest club to party the evening away at. Thursday to Saturday, 11.30pm to 5am 10 rue des Saints-Pères (7th) 76 W H E R E PA R I S I J U N E 2014

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Roland Garros

SPORT CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES Jun 7, 14, 21, 28 at 6pm & Jun 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 at 3pm La voie de l’écuyer opus 2014, a spectacular show created by Bartabas with the Versailles Equestrian Academy featuring fencing on horseback, improvisation and other surprises. Jun 1, 15, 22, 28-29 at 11:15 am Les Matinales, dressage lessons performed by the Academy’s riders with their mounts. 25€ adults, 16€ children under 12. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com Manège de la Grande Ecurie, Chateau of Versailles, 08.92.68.18.91. RER C Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche. HIPPODROME D’AUTEUIL Jun 1, 8, 11-12, gates open at 11am and the steeplechase races begin shortly after 1pm. Enjoy a delightful meal and races at one of Paris’s famous race tracks. This track is devoted to obstacle races. Free day care. Riding lessons for children, Sun at 1:30pm. Admission: 4-8€. Lunch and dinner reservations: 08.25.03.01.01. Tickets at the track or FNAC. www.france-galop.com Route d’Auteuil aux Lacs (16th), 01.40.71.47.47. M° Porte d’Auteuil-Hippodrome

HIPPODROME DE PARIS VINCENNES Jun 7 for day races & Jun 3, 6, 10, 13, 17, 20, 27 for evening races. Enjoy lunch or dinner (when there are evening races) during the races in a panoramic restaurant at one of Paris’s famous racetracks. Reservations recommended for meals which range from 32-110€. 2 route de la Ferme (12th), 01.49.77.17.17. RER A to Joinville-le-Pont ROLAND GARROS Grand Slam tennis at the French Open played out on this clay court paradise through Jun 9. Great matches, superb restaurant and a beautiful venue for one of the sport’s most prestigious events. For tickets and schedules go to http://rolandgarros.fft-tickets.com. 2 ave Gordon Bennett Paris (16th), 01.47.43.48.00. M° Porte d’Auteuil

ROLLERS FRIDAY NIGHTS Every Friday starting at 10:00pm (best to show up 15 minutes early), some 12,000 rollerbladers glide through the city streets, covering a 15 mile (24-km) circuit in three hours. Though Pari Roller welcomes anyone who can brake and control their skates, amateurs should note that the pace is fast and the route tricky in places. Free. Start and finish is on the terrace in front of the Gare Montparnasse. www.pari-roller.com Place Raoul Dautry (15th), 01.43.36.89.81. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue ROLLERS SUNDAY AFTERNOONS Beginner rollerbladers might be happier with the more relaxed Sunday afternoon skate run by Rollers & Coquillages, departing from the Place de la Bastille at the blvd Bourdon at 2:30 pm. Free. Place de la Bastille (12th). M° Bastille

ROLAND GARROS STADIUM PHOTO © FFT; THEATRE DES ABESSES PHOTO © BIRGIT

DANCE THEATRE DE LA VILLE This historic venue in the heart of Paris was directed by Sarah Bernhardt for 25 years. Its facade by Gabriel Davioud is a listed historic monument. Jun 21, 23 & 25-27 at 8:30pm & Jun 22, 29 at 5pm Palermo Palermo, landmark work choreographed by Pina Bausch shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall. 35€. For tickets and full schedule visit www.theatredelaville.com. 2 place du Châtelet (4th), 01.42.74.22.77. M° Châtelet

Théâtre des Abbesses

THEATRE DES ABBESSES Jun 10-14 at 8:30pm Jim, an energetic work drawing inspiration from Jim Morrison by the Portuguese choreographer and dancer Paulo Ribeiro. 22-26€. For tickets and full schedule visit www.theatredelaville-paris.com. 31 rue des Abbesses, (18th), 01.42.74.22.77. M° Abbesses w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 77

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W H E R E PA R I S

OPERA & BALLET CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES Jun 5 at 8pm Amadigi, Handel’s 3-act magic-

Balanchine, Benjamin Millepied, works by Bizet and Ravel featuring the choreography of the historic artistic director of the New York City Ballet and Millepied who trained there. 5-110€. Full programme visit www.operadeparis.fr. 120 rue de Lyon (12th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Bastille

filled opera telling the tale of a pair of lovers whose idyll is threatened by a magician and the Prince of Thrace Dardanus. 45-140€. Jun 14 at 9pm & Jun 15 at 4pm & 7pm Dido and Aeneas, Henry Purcell’s 3-act tragedy recounting the love story of the Queen of Carthage and the Trojan hero. 45-140€. For full programme and reservations www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr. Ave Rockefeller, 01.30.83.78.89. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche OPERA BASTILLE Jun 2, 5, 7, 9, 12, 14, 17, 20 at 7:30pm La Traviata, Verdi’s 3-act opera revolving around Violetta Valéry a courtesan on the verge of dying. 5-195€. Jun 3-4, 6 at 7:30pm & Jun 8 at 2:30pm George

OPERA COMIQUE Built in 1783 on the grounds of the property of the Duke of Choiseul, just off the Boulevard des Italiens, this gorgeous theatre was decorated by the most famous artists of La Belle Epoque: Gervex, Merson, Flameng, Maignan and Constant. Jun 13-14 at 8pm & Jun 15 at 3pm Robert Le Cochon et les Kidnappeurs, this new creation recounts the kidnapping of a wolf and how a pig, a frog and the moon try to set him free. 6-50€. For tickets, reservations and full programme go to www.opera-comique.com. Place Boieldieu (2nd), 08.25.01.01.23. M° Richelieu-Drouot

OPERA GARNIER Jun 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29 at 7:30pm Dances at a Gathering/Psyché, two delicate and enchanting works choreographed respectively by Jerome Robbins and Alexei Ratmansky. 10-130€. For additional information and reservations visit www.operadeparis.fr. Palais Garnier, Place de l’Opéra (9th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Opéra THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Jun 10 at 8pm The Italian Girl in Algiers, Rossini’s opera buffa in 2 acts set in a seaside palace. 5-110€. Jun 13 at 8pm La scala di seta, Rossini’s 1-act comic farce filled with melody and appealing characters. 5-95€. Jun 14 at 8pm Fidelio, Beethoven’s 2-act opera set in 18th century Spain. Tickets and reservations at www. theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th) Tickets and reservations call 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

SALLE PLEYEL

THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES

Jun 6 at 8pm Krystian Zimerman, the pianist performs

Jun 3 at 8pm Orchestre de Chambre de Paris,

a selection of Beethoven’s sonatas. 10-100€. Jun 11-12

under the direction of Christian Zacharias who

at 8pm Orchestre de Paris, under the direction of

also performs on the piano, perform Haydn,

Yutaka Sado with the pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet

Mozart and Beethoven. 5-55€. Jun 16-19 & Jun

EGLISE DE LA MADELEINE

and the harpist Xavier de Maistre performs Chabrier,

21 at 8pm & Jun 22 at 5pm The Budapest Gypsy

Jun 24 at 8:30pm Mozart, Requiem/Solemn

Saint-Saëns, Glière and Tchaikovsky. 10-60€. Jun 25

Symphony Orchestra, performs works by Bizet,

Vespers of the Confessor with orchestra

at 8pm Orchestre de Paris, under the direction of

Brahms, Liszt and Tchaikovsky among others. Jun

and soloists under the direction of Till Aly.

Gianandrea Noseda and with Sergey Khachatryan on

20 at 8pm David Fray, the pianist performs Bach

20-40€. Tickets at the church the day of the

the violin performs Liszt, Bruch and Respighi. 10-60€.

and Beethoven. 5-65€. 5-75€.

concert or bookings at www.fnac.com or

For full programme and on-line ticket purchases visit

For full programme visit

www.concerts-sveto.com.

www.sallepleyel.fr.

www.theatrechampselysees.fr.

Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.64.83.16.

252 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th) 01.42.56.13.13.

15 ave Montaigne (8th) 01.49.52.50.50.

M° Madeleine

M° Ternes

M° Alma-Marceau

CLASSICAL

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and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab?

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L’OLYMPIA The legendary music hall of Bruno Coquatrix. Jun 2 at 8pm Cliff Richard. 67.50-150€. Jun 23 at 8pm Joe Satriani. 51-111.50€. Jun 26 at 8pm Chicago. 56.50-111.50€. Jun 28 at 8pm George Benson. 73-150€. Jun 29 at 7pm & Jun 30 at 8pm Jack White. 42.90-49.50€. For full programme see www.olympiahall.com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com or call 08.92.39.04.90. 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08.92.68.33.68. M° Opéra LA CIGALE Built in 1887 as a theatre, this historical monument served as a cabaret. Jean Cocteau then took it over and in the 40s it became a cinema house. In 1987, Philip Starck transformed the aging theatre into a multi-purpose venue that hosts some of the most avant-garde artists. Jun 12 at 7:30pm Graham Parker & The Rumour. 45.50-62€. Jun 30 at 7:30pm George Benson. 62-139€. Full programme www.lacigale.fr.

JAZZ CLUBS CAFE UNIVERSEL Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. Free concerts are held at 9pm. For full programme go to www.myspace.com/cafeuniversel. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at

120 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.49.25.81.75. M° Anvers LE ZENITH Launched over 25 years ago, this theatre has become a mythical venue for fine music. Jun 5-7 at 8pm Shakaponk. 36-45€. Full schedule and programme at www.zenith-paris.com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com 08.92.68.36.22. Parc de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th). M° Porte de Pantin LES FOLIES BERGÈRE This historic showcase for everything from the exotic to the classic has remained a landmark Parisian music hall for over a century. It was here in the 1920’s that Josephine Baker became an overnight sensation. Jun 4 at 8pm Earth, Wind & Fire. 44.50-89.50€. For tickets and reservations call 08.92.68.16.50. www.foliesbergere.com. 32 rue Richer (9th). M° Cadet

this location in the Middle Ages. Shows change regularly, check website for details. Sun-Thurs entrance fee 12€, Fri-Sat and holiday eves 14€, drinks, 5-8€. www.caveaudelahuchette.fr. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° St-Michel DUC DES LOMBARDS One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The decor is completely modern but the inspiration comes from the past as Elliot Barnes based his designs on the rarely played Duke Ellington song, Black Brown Beige. The Duc is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. An all-natural menu is also served continuously. Jun 5-7 at 8pm & 10pm Omer Klein. 30€. Jun 19-20 at 8pm & 10pm Alfredo Rodriguez. 28€. Jun 26-28 at 8pm & 10pm Eli Degibri. 30€. For full programme and reservations go to

Trianon

STADE DE FRANCE Jun 13 at 7:30pm The Rolling Stones. 67.50-150€. Jun 20-21 at 6pm One Direction. 50.80-89.30€. www.stadedefrance.com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com 08.92.39.04.90; ZAC du Cornillon Nord Saint Denis (93) 0892.700.900. M° Saint Denis-Porte de Paris. RER B La Plaine Stade de France. RER D Stade de France-Saint Denis THEATRE LE TRIANON One of the capital’s mythical venues. Re-built in 1902, after a devastating fire, it was a favourite haunt of Jacques Brel who wrote some of his lyrics there. Jun 5 at 8pm Flying Lotus. 35€. Jun 10 at 8pm The Kooks. 34€. Jun 18 at 8pm Mobb Deep. 39.60€. For tickets and reservations visit www.fnac.com. 80 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.44.92.78.03. M° Anvers

www.ducdeslombards.com. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet JAZZ CLUB ETOILE A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. In addition to a rich program beginning every night at 10pm, new talents are on the bill every Monday evening, and on Sundays enjoy a jazz-filled brunch. Sushi menu from 5:30pm-10pm, interior courtyard garden and fabulous cocktails. Apéro Jazz cocktail time Tuesday nights from 7:30pm to 10:30pm features a pianist and vocalist. Jun 7 The Desktops Motown Revue. Jun 13-14 Rhoda Scott Quintet. Jun 26-28 Ellen Birath & The Swingin’ Lovers. Check website for complete programme www.jazzclub-paris.com. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot

TRIANON PHOTO © FRANCK BOHBOT

ROCK, POP, HIP HOP

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W H E R E PA R I S

BARS

DOKHAN CHAMPAGNE BAR A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator, artwork by Picasso and candlelight features a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. Mº Victor Hugo

LE BAR The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail. Redecorated with a voluptuous decor by designer Jacques Garcia. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

Tues-Sat from 7:30 pm; Fri & Sun from 12 pm. 2 rue Robert Estienne (8th), 01.53.76.10.76. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL BAR fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd

PRESCRIPTION COCKTAIL CLUB This clubby bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails. The hot spot offers cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. Mº Mabillon

arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious BAR LE BAUDELAIRE Discover a host of creative cocktails beneath a ceiling fresco evoking “The Flowers of Evil”, Charles Baudelaire’s masterpiece. The bar offers 50 different champagnes and 40 Cognacs. Daily from 5pm-1am. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine BUDDHA BAR This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. Mº Concorde LA CLOSERIE DES LILAS The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. Enjoy the piano player, the best Daiquiri in Paris and being yourself. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Mº Vavin or RER Port-Royal

cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. Mº Sentier HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and friendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. Mº Opéra HOTEL COSTES BAR This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching. The décor is sumptuous as are the cocktails and the very fine champagne list. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. Mº Tuileries PARK HYATT PARIS VENDOME BAR This bar serves a wide variety of refreshments including nine champagnes by the glass and 70 different whiskies and house cocktails. Nibble on

DOOBIES A trendy restaurant/bar where you have to ring the doorbell to get in.

tapas prepared by Jean-François Rouquette. 2pm-2am. 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.71.12.34. Mº Opéra

LE ROSEBUD This bar in the heart of Montparnasse has been a favourite haunt for a drink for decades. The cocktails are generous and served in a 1930’s ambiance. 7pm-2am. 11bis rue Delambre (14th), 01.43.35.38.54. Mº Vavin LA VUE A stunning view is to be had by all from the 33rd floor of the Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile hotel, perched on the western edge of Paris. Sit back into the stunning décor highlighted by designer Pier Luigi Copat’s majestic chandelier and sip your drink in a refined ambiance overlooking the city and its lights. 3 place du Général Koenig (17th),01.40.68.12.34. Mº Porte Maillot W HOTEL BAR This recently renovated bar has moved up to the first floor of the hotel and is where fashionistas and socialites gather to mingle. The cocktail menu features classic drinks as well as original cocktails including the house cocktail, The Spark. 4 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. Mº Opéra/Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette

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WINE WITH A VIEW

On the top floor of the popular

Nicolas boutique sits a wine bar with a gorgeous view of the impressive church. Here you can take in one of the most iconic monuments of the city while sipping a glass of French wine, another equally iconic monument for many. The bar naturally offers an impressive wine list and an Ă la carte menu featuring French cuisine as well as tapas with symbols next to each dish suggesting the wine that will perfectly complement it. The bar is open Monday to Saturday from 12 to 10pm, making it a perfect stop for a lazy lunch or a cosy dinner. 31 place de la Madeleine (8th),

pour

phoTo : ChrisTian gauTiEr

ÂŠ MTML / Manfred T.Mugler

licence K-WET : 1046370-1046371

01 42 68 00 16

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W H E R E PA R I S

NIGHT CLUBS

RASPOUTINE

This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne. The club’s décor, created by the celebrated Russian designer Erté, is listed on the inventory of historic monuments. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

CLUB 79 This excellent spot for Parisian clubbing features fine champagne by the bottle, a cocktail of the week and a variety of musical programmes. Chic and trendy. www.club79.fr. 22 rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), 01.47.23.69.17. M° George V LE MONTANA This nightclub in the heart of the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The

bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. Popular with the fashion crowd and rock stars. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés LE PARIS PARIS This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club also boasts a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. Tues-Sat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre VIP ROOM One of the most exclusive of the clubs currently on the Parisian nightlife scene. This chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music.

188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal LE SHOWCASE Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau SOCIAL CLUB Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. It is advisable to dress up rather than down. Wed 11pm-3am. Thurs-Sat 11pm-6am. For music programme visit www.parissocialclub.com. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse

MUGLER FOLLIES PHOTO © CHRISTIAN GAUTIER © MTML / MANFRED T.MUGLER

LE BARON You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance – there’s live music- attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau

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CABARETS

Mugler Follies CRAZY HORSE A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. The show and half bottle of champagne or 2 drinks: starting at €125. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls, 1000 costumes of feathers, rhinestones and sequins and spectacular staging. Daily. Dinner & show start at 7pm (185-215€); Show only starts at 9pm or 11pm for 112€ (with half bottle of champagne). www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche

LIDO The current show, Bonheur, is a song-anddance spectacular with 70 artists, 23 sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily. Dinner & show at 7pm (160-300€); Show only with half bottle of champagne at 9pm (110€) & 11pm (100€). www.lido.fr 116 bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V MUGLER FOLLIES Put together by Manfred T. Mugler, this vibrant show reinvents the traditional cabaret. Dancers, acrobats and singers are joined onstage with comedians, performers and models. The show is not recommended for children. Dinner and show starts at 7:30pm, from 156€. Show only with a glass of champagne starts at 8pm, from 89€. Show only starts at 8:45pm (doors open at 8:20), from 56€. www.muglerfollies.com Le Comédia, 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01.42.38.22.22. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis w w w.wheretr aveler.c o m 85

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ME R ND . TO ORLY AIRPORT LA M UL ELS ULE LA SO O RT E A EV E HN PL.DE LA UX O N N Alexandre A R Charonne E CHAR S RÉUNION D The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E U E Pont R NE RU X Marie I E R Orlyval, an PLACE automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval RONNE RO RU TER AC EL E L Porte de E DE CHA Bastille 4e DRE R. D DE LA R . Montreuil S PORTE DE S TDE DE XAN DE DE A N Truns every R. 5-7 min, S ALE BASTILLE L A P 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The RE U I L MONTREUIL OINE E CÉ V IL PE MONT Maraîchers D C R U E E S L LE RU RUE ST E MR U Opéra Y Z INS RER CHAN TIT . DE L Bastille Massy-Verrières connects I V C direction RON Buzenval R. A PE D 'AV RUE DELESCLUZE Rue des DU CER QU BL AI IS A I R. Boulets I E a shuttle bus that goes Ledru to Orly (6.45€). Or VD D'A N R with E HE NJ R U S R U Rollin O E Avron CH AM P EN Sully VO L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau B LV IL LT REU DE S T E A N D RU O EB U M IR ÉTH L LY DE RUE E SU UN Métro stop (14th), every 20 min 5:35 am-11 FA U B O U R E DE DE R. IGN É PLAINE G LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A PO R. MO R NAY pm (7.20€). Air France buses leave from the E Faidherbe IN ANTO R. D MB. R L A S Chaligny É O C . R INE L PRINTEMPS L AG N Y SCH DE RU E ITUT Nation NATION RO Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) the PL.DES ONDE PLACE DE ANTILLES QU Porte de ABE LA NATION RU Vincennes T O C Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile) D R Y A L O L A B . R E U D RS DI LE AV PORTE DE P. té DE R. AR D EN IA N DU Quai de e Curie OR B O UL EVReuilly-Diderot PA R R OT (rue UE and GareUEMontparnasse duCHAcommandant V IN C E NVINCENNES RE E D R. AI la Rapée VII ND AV RE NT NES EZ EN N V -V T TO A Gare Montparnasse) de OU ER Mouchotte, M° Gare DI DE RO ÛTE BE N every 20 S VI D T VO Lyon AR Gare CU RN HA LA ER A UC LE VA RD de Lyon R. R T E OU A AR B E Z É D AVE NU E N IT 5am-10:40pm from airport 6amRU NT . B E D PO RLminutes, Ménageries RG MO DE RU E SE R. ST SA I N T DE DU AU Picpus R. E T trip/ HighÊquuaalityÊ H 12€ one way, 20€ round AVE Jardin des D'11:40pm (Onboard: lityÊm assage, MA ND É CH UE OG ILL T Gare R U Montgallet AVE E C OU R T EL S G AL O Plantes LL d’Austerlitz I N E V. ON N D MB GA HUGO Online: 11€ oneRUway, 18€ round VA NT R Atrip). AU directlyÊ i nÊ y o urÊ ho telÊr oom. ande E MO ME E R. MOUSSET D RE E TER N A S E UE R L PORTE DE uée SN RU ROBERT RU NT UL R. E DE P O G Awww.aeroportsdeparis.fr ST-MANDÉ IL LY FON A aris RNO E L UIL BUF DE RUE DAGO

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W h e r e pa r i s [ n a v i g at e ] Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.70€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 13.70€). This map includes the new tramway line.

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 10.85€, 2-day 17.65€, 3-day 24.10€, 5-day 34.70€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

• 44,000 square meters dedicated to luxury, fashion and beauty • A building classified historic monument • High-end services to enjoy a unique shopping experience • A panoramic terrace offering the most stunning view of Paris

• A unique shopping experience in the most beautiful museum in the world • The only luxury department store open 7 days a week, even on Sunday • The best selection of iconic gifts for Accessories & Beauty

Haussmann. ��, boulevard Haussmann. �� Paris — Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com Louvre. ��, rue de Rivoli. �� Paris Tél : + ��(�)� �� www.printemps.com

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[THE VIEW FROM HERE]

My Paris

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? See the writing space at Louis Vuitton’s boutique in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood. It is an incredible cultural space especially for that neighbourhood that is known for its history in the arts.

Aerial view of Paris

Jean Emmanuel

MENDES Head Concierge Hôtel Bel Ami

Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? From the air with Helifirst (helicopter tour company)! It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where would you recommend they party till dawn? Club 79 on rue Quentin Bauchart.

Where recently sat with Head Concierge of the Hôtel Bel Ami, Jean Emmanuel, to pick his brain on where and what our readers should go and see while visiting the French capital

As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? The Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighbourhood, where you will find the Sonia Rykiel boutique, which will be one of the boutiques opening on Sundays.

For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? The Bel Canto on the quai de l’Hôtel de Ville, where you can enjoy a moment of lyrical art. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? The V restaurant at Hôtel Vernet. In a private and elegant setting the quality of the cuisine of Richard Robe, the executive chef, is unveiled.

Bel Ami’s restaurant

MY PERFECT DAY 9am Sit at Café de Flore with a book, followed by a visit to the Musée d’Orsay 12pm Brunch at the Bel Ami restaurant 3pm Enjoy a moment of relaxation at the Esthederm Spa at the Bel Ami Hotel 9pm Cocktails at the Bel Ami bar before dinner at Ze Kitchen Gallery

Club 79

where

Your Guide to the World

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Chez Fernand, where a traditional cuisine is served with a warm welcome by Baptiste, the manager.

The Estherderm Spa at the Bel Ami

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04/14

La Vallée Village is the ultimate luxury shopping destination with minimum reductions of 33% , special offers with extra savings and tax-free shopping seven days a week, and only 35 minutes from Paris. Discover more than 110 boutiques, including: *

†

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CARVEN

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

LONGCHAMP SONIA RYKIEL

PAUL & JOE TOD’S

JIMMY CHOO

PAUL SMITH

THE KOOPLES

UGG

POIRAY

KENZO

L.K.BENNETT

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

VANESSA BRUNO

AND MANY MORE

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER. †

Receive a 10% saving on any purchase in three of your favourite boutiques (upon presentation of your Shopping Express® ticket at the Welcome Center) when travelling from Paris (ParisCityVision agency / Metro Pyramides) with the Shopping Express® (35 minutes). Book online at LaValleeVillage.com/shoppingexpress or call the ParisCityVision agency on +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00.

LaValleeVillage.com LONDON

DUBLIN

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PARIS

MADRID

BARCELONA

MILAN

BRUSSELS

FRANKFURT

MUNICH

SUZHOU, CHINA

* and often more off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique.

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