Where® Thailand March 2017 by Where Thailand

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M A RC H 2 0 1 7 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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BRUNCH O’CLOCK

The best spots in Bangkok for a luxurious Sunday feast

Eating and drinking on the islands Siam-style retail therapy

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l MARCH 2017

The Guide BANGKOK

20 NIGHTLIFE Check out the city's live jazz scene, from glamorous hotel lounges to easygoing jam bars.

22 DINING

Make reservations at one of these cool Thai-inspired tapas restaurants, or experience the highest form of omakase sushi.

SUNDAY SERVICE

24 SHOPS+SERVICES Head to Bangkok's busiest night markets and bazaars to find the perfect gifts for back home.

Bangkok's most elaborate Sunday brunch buffets.

25 HEALTH+WELLNESS Burn off some of those holiday calories at one of these leading fitness studios. Drop-ins welcome.

AROUND THAILAND 10 BEACH EATS

26 ATTRACTIONS

From luxury sunset restaurants to local favorites, discover the best dining experiences on Koh Samui and Phuket.

Take a street-food tuk-tuk tour, or cycle your way around the "Bangkok jungle."

27 ART This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

EXPLORING

28 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

14 SIAM

Shop till you drop in Bangkok's heart of retail therapy, while making the occasional pitstop at its many bars and restaurants.

ALSO INSIDE

16 CHINATOWN

While exploring Yaowarat and Charoenkrung Roads, you'll discover incredible temples, time-honored street-food classics, and a thriving young nightlife scene.

30 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Deputy Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Staff Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Contributors Natcha Saguankiattichai, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Marketing Manager Pymporn Pinkaew Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

HOT DATES

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For Contacts: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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MAR 9-12

SPORTING GIANTS Anantara hotel group’s yearly King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament sees polo players leave their horses and instead play the classic high-society game atop rescued Thai elephants. The four-day event features 30 rescued street elephants being ridden by professional polo players along with experienced mahouts (elephant handlers). Always an entertaining day out—and a chance to glimpse Bangkok’s society set at their finest—the event also raises funds to support rescued and wild elephants. Entry is B200, but the hotel also has room packages starting from B5,780. Free shuttle boat available from BTS Saphan Taksin. Anantara Riverside, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd., 02476-0022

MAR 10-26

MAR 3-5

MAR 4-5

Spanish cartoonist Joan Cornella makes his Bangkok debut this March. The illustrator is known for his black humor-laced six-panel comic strips whose cheerful colors and lighthearted-looking characters touch on taboo topics through scenes of cannibalism, infanticide, deification, murder, suicide and amputation. While crudely illustrated, his thought-provoking works have drawn widespread international acclaim. The artist himself will be present for the opening. B200 admission fee.

The first Bangkok Gourmet Festival gathers Thai and international chefs for a weekend of fine dining. Sample bites from 40 of Bangkok’s leading restaurants including J’aime by Jean-Michel Lorain, Ginza Sushi Ichi, Osha, Savelberg, Rossini’s, Lenzi and Benjarong. What’s more, there’ll also be workshops by chef Alvin Leung of threeMichelin-starred Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, Curtis Duffy of three-Michelinstarred Grace in Chicago and Guillaume Galliot of The Tasting Room in Macau. Entry is B200.

Head over to the Thonglor neighborhood’s wildly popular collection of hip cafes and bistros, The Commons, when it partners up with The Great Outdoor Market for a series of pop-up booths focusing on shopping and dining. A yearly highlight on Bangkokians’ shopping calendars, the Great Outdoor Market’s events round up craft stalls and indie pop-up kitchens from all over the city. Expect Thai-made gifts and hipster food trends

The four-day Bangkok Underground Film Festival is dedicated to the works of independent, DIY and first-time filmmakers, as well as celebrating cinema outside of the mainstream. Returning for the second time, the festival showcases 39 short films, three features and 21 video art works from 22 countries. Mar 4, you’ll find the lineup at Bridge Art Space and Mar 5 at Gallery Ver.

The Commons, 335/1 Thonglor Soi 17

Future Factory, 1077/48 Phahonyothin Rd., 098-253-9356

Royal Paragon Hall, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam

Gallery Ver, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Soi 22, 02-103-4067

COMIC TIMING

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

MARKET FORCE

INDIE VISION

Bridge Art Space, Charoenkrung Soi 51, 089-666-2051

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DINING

SUNDAY SERVICE

Do the weekend properly at one of Bangkok’s most extravagant Sunday brunch buffets. Here’s everything you need to know. THE RAIN TREE CAFE

ANANTARA SIAM CHAMPAGNE SUNDAY BRUNCH Every Sunday from noon-3:30pm

J’AIME

The original “best brunch in Bangkok” comes from the former Four Seasons hotel, which still delivers the goods under the Anantara brand. The massive spread spans all the hotel’s food outlets in the Parichart Court wing: Aqua, Spice Market Thai restaurant and Madison Grill steakhouse. The food: Seafood on ice, sushi, dim sum and Chinese roasts to foie gras dishes, carved meat and live grills. The charcuterie room is also open with a selection of cold cuts and cheese. The highlight: Unlimited fresh oysters, lobster, foie gras dishes and steak. The price: B4,100 per person including Champagne (Billecart-Salmon), red and white wines. The non-alcoholic option is priced at B2,490 per person.

CENTARA GRAND @ CENTRALWORLD

CENTARA GRAND AT CENTRALWORLD DOMINGO FABULOSO CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH Every first Sunday of the month 11:30am3:30pm The Spanish-themed Champagne brunch at Uno Mas serves up a hearty Western meal in a prime, sky-high setting. The food: Premium imports like lobsters, charcuterie, wagyu, foie gras and rare cheeses from Italy and France. Also, the Spanish tapas menu includes suckling pig, croquettes and squid ink risotto. The highlight: Free-flow Mumm Pink Champagne and Bellinis. The lobster. The price: B3,555 per person 54/F, 999 Rama 1 Rd., 02-769-1234. BTS Siam/ Chit Lom

Parichart Court, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-126-8866. BTS Ratchadamri

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GRAND HYATT ERAWAN TABLES GRILL SUNDAY BRUNCH Every Sunday from 11am-3pm Live cooking stations span the vast dining room, where you can find weekly-rotating dishes. The food: Includes the likes of eggs Benedict with smoked salmon, truffle and hollandaise sauce, pan-fried foie gras with brioche crumble, Boston lobster Thermidor, sous-vide guinea fowl thigh and rigatoni gratin. The highlights: The number of live stations and the truffle risotto that’s finished in a hole of parmesan cheese. The price: B3,999 per person inclusive of free-flow Louis Roederer Champagne, wines and cocktails. 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. BTS Ratchadamri

INTERCONTINENTAL BUBBLY SUNDAY BRUNCH Every Sunday from noon-3pm The buffet restaurant’s brunch highlights the best imported ingredients. The food: Maine lobster, pacific and fine de claire oysters, Australian and New Zealand mussels, Alaskan and Chilean crab, tiger, river and French prawns and langoustines, Japanese-grade sashimi, caviar, Chinese

TABLES GRILL

fish maw, wagyu ribs, foie gras and Australian lamb cutlets. The highlight: All of the above. The price: B2,100 per person including soft drinks, coffee and tea. B3,899 including free-flow Louis Roederer Premier Brut. 973 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-0444. BTS Chit Lom

U SATHORN SUNDAY BRUNCH Last Sunday of every month from noon-3pm Shared appetizers come to your table before you even have to ask while you are waiting for your a la carte entrees at this very highend feast set in Michelin-star chef Jean-Michel Lorain’s restaurant J’aime.

The food: Dishes like pan-seared duck foie gras with creamy and crispy rice berry, stuffed sous-vide quail with braised garden vegetables and jus brun with tomato water gastrique, and parmentier-style braised lamb shank with potato mousseline and Epoisse cheese gratin. The highlight: All-you-can-eat a la carte at fine-dining levels, as well as free-flow Chandon. The price: B2,999 including free-flow Louis Roederer Champagne. 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4899

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DINING

UP & ABOVE

VIU

TSU & NAMI

JW MARRIOTT SUNDAY BRUNCH

shi, salads and charcuterie, a la minute pasta, Thai curries and finger food, real cheese, and more desserts than you’ll ever get through.

cluded for two diners at B3,200/person or Louis Roederer Cristal B5,300/person (including meal).

Every Sunday from noon-3pm Tsu Japanese restaurant and Nami teppanyaki steakhouse collaborate on what’s easily the best Japanese buffet in town.

The highlight: The prime rib is excellent, so are the sweets. But best is the imported French cheeses—so stinky they need to be kept undercover.

333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-020-2888. Free shuttle boat from BTS Saphan Taksin

The food: Everything you’d hope for from the range of Japanese favorites: sushi and sashimi to tempura, ramen, curry and teppanyaki.

The price: B2,600 per person with soft drinks; B3,300 with free-flow sparking, wine, beer and cocktails. B1,050 for kids.

The highlights: Live teppanyaki stations on the Nami wing with chefs cooking up foie gras, Australian beef, kurobuta pork and prawns.

57 Wireless Rd., 02-687-9000. BTS Phloen Chit

The price: B2,343 net with free-flow soft drinks; add B1,400 for sparkling wine. 4 Sukhumvit Soi 2, 02-656-7700. BTS Phloen Chit

OKURA PRESTIGE UP & ABOVE SUNDAY BRUNCH Every Sunday from noon-3pm One of few Bangkok brunches with really wonderful views (for others, look to St. Regis and Centara Grand), this one offers a suitably five-star buffet spread, indoor and alfresco seating, and a few a la carte mains including half a Boston lobster for every guest. The food: Foie gras (torchon and pan seared), wagyu beef, oysters, spider crab, sashimi, su-

THE PENINSULA SUNDAYS AT THE PEN Every Sunday from 11:30am-2:30pm The hotel’s lobby buffet features a range of food stations as well as some quality appetizers and mains served to your table. The food: There are five food stations— fresh seafood, Chinese (including Peking duck), salad, pasta and desserts—while a la carte options include lobster Benedict with creamy spinach, Champagne sabayon and caviar, and a wagyu beef burger with seared foie gras. The highlight: The variety of oysters, poached lobster and premium mains. The price: B2,200 per person. One bottle of Louis Roederer Champagne will be in-

PLAZA ATHENEE SUNDAY BRUNCH AT THE RAIN TREE CAFE Every Sunday from noon-3:30pm After reopening in a larger space, the restaurant now offers a larger buffet, too, featuring it all from fine de claires and housecured salmon to quality grilled meats. The food: Name it and you can find it on the buffet line: seafood on ice, caviar, Peking duck, cheese, dim sum, chocolate fondue, mango sticky rice and such. A la carte entrees include pan-seared foie gras, truffle scrambled egg and lobster bisque. The highlight: Three selections of oysters, lobsters, foie gras, king crab legs, Movenpick ice cream and the playful frozen cocktail. The price: B2,400 per person. Additional beverage packages include B1,000 for cocktails, beer and Chandon and B2,100 for freeflow Moet & Chandon and other drinks. 61 Wireless Rd., 02-650-8800. BTS Phloen Chit

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SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT SUNDAY JAZZY BRUNCH Every Sunday from noon-3pm This brunch takes place in a jazz lounge with live performances.

SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT MAGNIFIQUE MOET & CHANDON SUNDAY BRUNCH

The highlight: Imported meats like French free-range chicken, Italian sausages, the huge range of cheese, Lobster Thermidor and a caviar station.

Every Sunday from noon-3pm

12/F, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7777. BTS Ratchadamri

The food: Buffet lines and live cooking stations featuring international delicacies.

The Champagne brunch features a huge buffet.

The highlights: Specials from the hotel’s Italian chef Luca Cesarini, including Italian cold cuts, foie gras and bouchet mussels.

The food: Stations of appetizers, seafood on ice and a Japanese counter as well as pass-around treats such as pan-fried French foie gras, white New Zealand snapper black bean sauce, and braised Australian wagyu beef.

The price: B2,280 per person (food only), B3,460 with free-flow beverages 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. BTS Asok

SIAM KEMPINSKI SUNDAY LONGEST LUNCH Every Sunday from noon-5pm

The highlight: Individual servings of the restaurant’s signature Canadian lobster bisque with puff pastry and a shot of Napoleon brandy, Alaskan king crab and New Zealand mussels. The cheese room.

The price: B3,000 per person or B4,700 with Moet & Chandon.

THE SUKHOTHAI SUNDAY BRUNCH Every Sunday noon-3pm This laidback Sunday feast features live cooking stations and views of the hotel’s water garden. The food: A five-page-long list of international buffet dishes covers Maine lobster, Japanese king crab, oysters from four countries, pan-fried foie gras and steaks.

The price: B2,200 net, B3,750 net with Chandon, wine and cocktails and B4,750 net with Moet Chandon.

The highlight: Everything is top-notch, from the imported cheeses to the pastries. There’s no corkage charge so bring your own Champagne and the price almost makes sense!

The food: Appetizers include oysters and seafood on ice as well as foie gras dishes, while you can also order main dishes from the rotating a la carte menu, with items like Australian beef tenderloin, New Zealand lamb, snow fish and Maine lobster tail.

189 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-126-9999. BTS Nana

The price: B2,700 not including alcohol.

The highlights: The premium a la carte menu and free-flow Louis Roederer Brut Premier Champagne NV

The hotel’s buffet restaurant goes big on Sunday.

Unlike other brunches that normally finish before 4pm, this one stretches a bit longer. The buffet line may not seem massive but it’s all about the premium produce.

The price: B3,500 per person with alcohol (and Champagne!) or B2,400 with free-flow juices and soda

ST. REGIS LEGENDARY SUNDAY BRUNCH Every Sunday from 12:30-3:30pm

The food: Foie gras, seafood on ice and cheese as well as a la carte dishes like truffle salmon scrambled eggs and Spanish omelet.

991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam

13/3 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-8888. MRT Lumphini

SHANGRI-LA SUNDAY BRUNCH WITH A BREEZE Every Sunday noon-3pm The dedicated children’s corner (complete with magician and clown) makes this one of Bangkok’s most family-friendly brunches, while the prime riverside location offers fabulous views while you enjoy the array of live stations. The food: Salads, cheeses, sausages, foie gras, fresh seafood, sushi and sashimi, along with barbecued pork, seared beef tenderloin, roasted lamb and beef leg. Asian food spans curries to dim sum, while the Italian kitchen dishes out house-made pasta and pizza. The highlight: Unlimited fresh oysters, beef tenderloin, the views. If you’re traveling as a family, the kids’ section. The price: B2,100 net; plus B1,288 net for free-flow alcohol. B1,050 net for children aged 4-11.

SHERATON GRANDE SUKHUMVIT

89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, 02-236-7777. BTS Saphan Taksin

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AROUND THAILAND

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BEACH EATS

From fine dining to local hot spots, here are the best restaurants in Phuket and Koh Samui. ESENZI

PHUKET FINE DINING ESENZI

best Royal Thai cuisine on the island. The menu serves both Central and Southern dishes, and has some nice set menus for those who’d rather put their faith in the chef’s personal choices.

The ultra-luxurious design hotel Iniala Beach House has partnered with Tim Butler of Bangkok’s Eat Me (No.23 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, No.7 in BK’s Top Tables 2016) to open this new venture featuring flavor profiles plucked from around the world. A5 marbled wagyu beef from Shiga prefecture comes served with swordfish belly in red curry, while the Dutch Harbor king crab salad features heirloom tomatoes, basil sorbet and bloody Mary. For the full experience, go with the eight-course tasting menu.

96 Krabi Rd., Talad Neua, Muang District, 076-354-355

Iniala Beach House, 40/14 Moo 6 Baan Natai, Takuathung, Phang Nga, 085-789 -8574

BLUE ELEPHANT This world-famous Thai restaurant group has renovated the century-old Prapitak Chinpracha Sino-Portuguese mansion. What once belonged to an affluent family is now a luxurious dining space and cooking school serving some of the

PRU Part of a pool villa-only resort, Pru takes its name from the on-site organic farm. Here, executive chef Jim Ophorst (Thailand’s only competitor for San Pellegrino’s Young Chefs Award 2017) works with local producers like the neighboring goat farm and even goes foraging himself to create the likes of eggplant cooked five ways—creamed, mashed, roasted, crisped and puffed up—served with basil sauce and house-made bottarga (cured fish roe). For his carrots, he uses charcoal from the farm’s wood and cooks them in a ground pit for eight hours. Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Thalang, 076-310-100

OSHA Bangkok’s Osha restaurant (which originated in San Francisco) has taken hold of the dining room in Phuket Town’s heritage Memory at On

OSHA

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bak kut teh (pork bone herbal soup). The classic tiles, Chinese lanterns and clientele of local old boys are as charming as the recipes. 18 Thalang Rd., 083 606 9776

NAM YOI One of Phuket’s best-kept secrets for Southern cuisine, Nam Yoi has been open for 20 years, but its reputation remains limited to in-theknow locals. The dishes at this stereotypically low-key Thai restaurant—plastic placemats, steel tables, rusty drinks trolleys for your Sangsom and soda—have a reputation for being tangy and spiced just right. Go straight for the signatures: mushroom spicy curry cake, shrimp pasted with dried shrimps, spicy sour soup with seabass (gaeng som pla kapong) and crab curry with rice noodle. Closed on the 16-17th of every month and during the Vegetarian Festival.

KOH

Ruamphatana Rd., 076-240-665

KOPITAM BY WILAI

THE PAGE

On Hotel to offer some creative high-end Thai dining. Amid minty and magenta decor, Osha Thai serves a list of its star dishes from Bangkok like dancing king prawns in fish sauce and tom yum kung served through a coffee syphon. But you’ll also find traditional Phuket dishes like moo hong (braised pork belly), mee gaeng pu (crab curry with rice noodle) and nam prik goong sieb (shrimp paste with dried shrimp). On On Hotel, 19 Phang-Nga Rd., Muang Phuket, 076-634-420

BLUE ELEPHANT

LOCAL EATS MEE TON POE This generations-old family business in a nondescript, open-air roadside location is famous for its signature Phuket-style pad mee Hokkien (Phuket-style egg noodles). The noodles are usually enjoyed alongside a chilled Thai-style tea and a side of satay. 214/7-8 Phuket Rd., Muang Phuket, 076-216-293

KOPITIAM BY WILAI MEE TON POE

The menu at this definitive old-quarter cafe is all about pocket-friendly traditional dishes like mee Hokkien (Phuket-style noodles) and

KOH SAMUI FINE DINING KOH Perched on top of the hill at Four Seasons resort, this restaurant promises stunning views of the island alongside a menu that focuses on less-familiar southern Thai recipes and flavors. Headed by Thai chef Sumalee Khunpet and her team, expect to find dishes like clear fish soup, banana blossom salad with prawns and sauteed pork loin with curry paste, all cooked using ingredients sourced as locally as possible. Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, 219 Moo 5, Angthong, 077-243-000

THE PAGE The Library hotel, a long-time favorite among design-savvy travelers, has expanded its beachfront restaurant, The Page. You’ll now find not just more seats perfectly poised for beach views, but also a list of 40 new dishes drawn from old Thai recipes. Go for the eight-course Samrab Thai set dinner to get a well-rounded hit of rare flavors like gaeng run juan nua nong lai (beef stewed in shrimp paste soup), and ray rai na gaeng krati fuktong (coconut noodles, grilled pork and pumpkin curry). The Library Koh Samui, 14/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, 077422 767 Ext 8

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AROUND THAILAND LOCAL EATS KRUA CHAO BAAN Krua Chao Baan sits in three wooden houses right next to the white sands of Lamai Beach. The menu is big on Southern recipes such as yellow gaeng som (spicy sour soup), stir-fried shrimp with sataw beans and hormok talay (crab eggs in steamed curry). Don’t miss their specialty, khai-jiew Krua Chao Baan, a seafood-stuffed omelet that looks more like a Spanish tortilla. As an added bonus, the beach is beautiful and you can work off those calories by taking their free kayak out for a paddle. 438/18 Moo 1, Maret, 087 893 7766

KO SENG

JAHN

Long-adored by locals for its intriguing blend of Chinese and Southern Thai dishes, this restaurant has been serving up fresh seafood for more than 50 years. The menu changes depending on the day’s catch, to be enjoyed steamed, stir-fried or dished up in a distinctive Southern-style tom yam soup. They also grow their own organic vegetables. 95 Moo 1, Thawiratpakdi Rd., 077-425-365

HAAD BANG PO

TAMARINA

HAAD BANG PO

TAMARINA

JAHN

This sunset dining hot spot in the north of the island is run by the same people behind Bangkok’s longstanding Pola Pola Restaurant & Bar. The chic modern tropical interior comes from leading Thai product designers Thinkk Studio, who contributed all the chairs, tables and lamps. Thai fusion and Italian dishes dominate the menu with picks like truffle pizza, spicy Australian beef salad and the whopping mixed seafood box. Get there early to claim a daybed on the wooden terrace to enjoy the sunset with a mojito in hand.

The new Journey of Jahn five-course menu has revitalized this stunning restaurant overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. Chef Amporn Choeng-Ngam uses Thai flavors to creative effect to tell the story of Samui’s fishing heritage. Our favorite course: the “Plaa Pla Bai Bua”—seared red tuna placed on a lotus leaf and drizzled with water to depict fishermen heading out to sea.

14/22 Moo 5, Ban Plai Leam, 077-0423-635

Conrad Koh Samui, Taling Ngam, 077-915-888

Run by Khun Moo, who has over 20 years’ experience working as a chef in high-end hotels, this beachfront restaurant offers a very local taste in a rustic setting. Expect classic seafood dishes like khai jiew hor mok (omelet with spicy curry seafood), octopus in dried curry and gaeng kua hed lup (sea anemone curry). Moo 6, Bang Po Beach, 081-788-8936

SABEINGLAE Sabeinglae offers a long list of authentic local dishes like gaeng kua hed lup (mushroom curry), wai kua (squid simmered in coconut milk), and gang som pla grabog yod mapraw (sour curry with fish and young coconut). Also try the fresh oysters with deep-fried garlic. The kluay buad shi (bananas in sweet coconut milk) can’t be missed for dessert. Unlike other seafood restaurants in Samui, the bill is affordable and might come in under B1,000 for two. 38/82 Moo 1, Maret, 077-233-082

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MARCH 2017 | BANGKOK

SIAM Siam sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashion-loving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkok’s biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Here’s how to spend an entire day eating, shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

SIAM DISCOVERY

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 14 SIAM

16 CHINATOWN

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EXPLORING

SIAM

Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top Restaurants

!8 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

HIGHLIGHT 2 SIAM DISCOVERY A top-to-bottom renovation and total overhaul of the stores inside has really made this once-aging mall a must-visit destination for any shopper. As well as all the big international brands, you’ll find a big focus on the best of local, Thai-made design. Don’t miss O.D.S., a store dedicated to award-winning home decor, jewelry and accessories brands, or the selection of Japanese cult labels like Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yoji Yamamoto. The mall itself is also pretty spectacular, created by Japanese design house Nendo. Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam.

Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 5 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its grad-

MANGO MOJITO

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 1 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416), 2 Dancing Riot (Me & Sons x Selektiv, Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-4863), minimal womenswear brand 3 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02-658-4686) and dapper men’s shoe specialist 4

SIAM CENTER

uating class, where the very best local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multilabel stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 6 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is its lavish VIP cinema and world class

Sea Life aquarium. Most recently, 2 Siam Discovery has undergone a huge renovation to place new focus on Thai and Japanese designers. The results are a shopper’s paradise (see box). 7 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest mall is 8 CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000), with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town. If you’re in the market for electronic goods, 9 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd.,

GAYSORN PLAZA

8 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy. 3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom. Also at 6 Siam Paragon

!4 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional home’s refined atmosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spaghetti (spicy spaghetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper. 6/1 Kasaemsan Soi 2, 02-612-3601. Open daily 10:30 am-6pm. BTS National Stadium

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SIAM

02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras, phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

EAT

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all. For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-2512861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort

with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !2 Seefah (Siam Square Soi 9, 02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !3 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02-658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes. Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 6 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 8 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-646-1282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152)—another popular cocktail spot. Cut through CentralWorld and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views at 8 Red Sky Bar (02100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

DRINK

!4 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established.

RED SKY BAR

SEE AND DO

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar 8 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 8 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 8 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02-646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi

SOMTAM NUA

Thai food chain !0 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-6644510, also at Siam Center). !1 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880, also at Siam Center) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait

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Inside you’ll also find the independent book store Hardcover and Gallery Drip Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !6 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais, this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !7 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation. Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

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CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!4 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon 7pm-1am

!5 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has specialized in boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

80/20 Drawing on skills honed at Toronto’s Creme Brasserie, co-owner/chef Napol Jantraget creates food that’s 80-percent local, 20-percent creative tweaks in dishes like the flavorful garden salad (yu choy and chayote shoots, bougainvillea leaves and more with a cream-based dry shrimp lime dressing) or the 80/20 Caesar salad (sauteed brussel sprouts, melting pork belly confit and dressing salted by shrimp paste). Desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are no after-thought either.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

!8 1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936. Open Wed-Sun 5pm-midnight; Mon 5pm-midnight

hinatown used to be all about eating at the most time-worn restaurants in Bangkok and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight. That’s all still there, but so are a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and galleries in town, attracting to the area a young, local and arty crowd with craft brews and vibrant live sounds.

SEE & DO Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique atmosphere. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775) is not to be missed, home to the world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site

WAT TRAIMIT

for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-2223975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly experience,

head to the colorful old Chinese Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-237-2191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

!6 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup. Yaowarat Rd., corner of soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

!7 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

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CHINATOWN

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Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. !2 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, 086-340-4791) has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas Lua (fried potatoes) and bocabravas ng Rd. dillos (sandwiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find one of the coolest craft cocktail lounges in

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town, !2 Teens of Thailand (76 Soi Nana, 081-443-3784), where a collection of artsists, party organizers and photographers gather to sip on gin-heavy drinks. On the same street, !2 23 Bar and Gallery (92 Soi Nana, 086-264-4471) has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between ‘90s Britpop and reggae, while !2Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana, 098-467 -2944) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd. Or head up to the 25th floor of the !3 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-224-9977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

lip-smackingly good Punjabi recipes. EAT Turn on your heels, because here Dining in Chinatown is all about they cook in true Indian grandmother old-school shop-house restaurants style—plenty of cream and ghee. And that have stood in the same spot for be sure to stock up on traditional Indi80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 an sweets on your way out. The area’s Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is old-school tea and coffee houses are a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s also not to be missed. The 87-yearrich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat ham and cured fish are delicious. On a similar note, don’t be discouraged by the rats and cockroaches in the alleyway leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, menu-less establishment known as one of the hottest seats in EIAH-SAE town. Chef Jok presents course after course of things like steamed bass in old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Yaowarat soy sauce and fried rice with crabmeat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves coffee to a packed dining room every night. laced with condensed milk alongDining here is done traditional Chiside charming snacks like custard nese-style, so come with a big enough on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast party to fill one of the large round tawith butter, jam or chocolate spread, bles. While Yaowarat is known for its all charged at rock-bottom prices. Chinese food, the adjoining Pahurat !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., is home to a sizable Indian commu086-329-3075) meanwhile, specialnity, and 9 Royal India (392/1 ChakCharoen Krung Rd izes . in potent, properly brewed teas kaphet Rd., 02-221-6565) is simply from across the region. one of the best places in town for

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok. MARCH 2017 I W HERE THA ILA N D 17

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ThewhereGuide MARCH 2017 | BANGKOK

FOOJOHN Step inside this old shop-house and you’re transported to a retro Hong Kong diner like something out of In the Mood for Love—think warm lighting, carefully positioned mirrors, vintage mosaic tiles. Downstairs you’ll find a hip bistro serving cold cuts and crepes alongside wine. A prohibition era-themed cocktail bar lurks upstairs, where French spirits are spotlighted in classic cocktails based on The Savoy Cocktail Book (first published back in 1930). 831 Charoenkrung Soi 31, 085-527-3511. MRT Hua Lamphong.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 20 NIGHTLIFE 22 DINING

24 SHOP 25 HEALTH & WELLNESS

26 ATTRACTIONS 27 ART

28 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

DUKE

Bangkok’s latest whiskey and cigar lounge is also a serious art gallery. Tucked away in the newly revamped Gaysorn Village shopping center, Duke welcomes you with a variety of colorful contemporary Thai art pieces before you reach the beautiful, dark wooden bar. The huge list of whiskey charts all the big Scotish and Japanese must-try labels, and even such delicacies as Michel Couvreur’s Clearach French single malt. 1/F, Gaysorn, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 080-5879520. Open daily 11am-midnight. BTS Chit Lom

Hot Spots

BEST JAZZ BARS

ADHERE THE 13TH

Y SPOTLIGHT

Just around the corner from backpackercentral Khao San Road, this acoustic, live blues and jazz insitution packs out every night. Indoors can only seat about 20, so you might find yourself perched on the wall outdoors, Singha beer in hand, listening to the loud and energetic music being belted out to a crowd of old-time expats and self-styled local blues-men. 13 Samsen Rd., 089-769-4613. Open daily 6pmmidnight

ADHERE THE 13TH

BROWN SUGAR

This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice Thailand like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30 pm from Tue-Sun. BAMBOO BAR

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am

BAMBOO BAR

The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am.

Teens of Thailand Hiding behind a rugged wooden door is this small, moody bar belonging to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. The real highlight is the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Xoriguer Mahon Gin (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls and house-infused selections like the Thaitea GT. The decor mixes old shop-house charm with racy photographs, while the menu changes. Our tip: tell the barman what kind of cocktail you like and let him make something new for you. 76 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong

BROWN SUGAR

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE

GAY SILOM

SOULBAR

This straightforward but stylish bar does just what you’d hope for. Live soul and funk bands fill the tiny front room every Wed-Sat starting from 9:30pm, often continuing the party after the shutters come down, and the bar now sells craft beer from Chiang Mai, as well as Vedette. The bar no longer has happy hour but offers daily promotions instead.

945 Charoen Krung Rd., 093-220-0441. Open WedSat 6:30pm-midnight

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

DJ STATION

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. Comfy leather couches (pick a spot furthest from the speaker) and an extensive list of red and white wine make this a favorite hangout of business execs who like nothing more than a stiff drink and some smooth music. Live jazz plays day and night, both from big local names and international guests. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal from 8pm-midnight. SOULBAR

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Rd., 02649-8353. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Asok

G.O.D

The area near BTS Sala Daeng is home to a few gay enclaves. If you want to catch a show, the notorious Soi Twilight, off Surawong Road, puts on productions that mix on-stage sex acts and drag queen performances. Drinks are about B300 a pop no matter what you order, but at least there is no extortion going on when you get the bill. Shows take place at regular intervals between 7pm and midnight. For something a lot less lurid, sip a Singha in Silom Soi 4, home to venerable gay institutions like Telephone. Come midnight, saunter up the street to Silom Soi 2. Note that you will need I.D. to get in and they don’t make exceptions unless you look like you’re pushing 40. Soi 2 is lined with bars, but you’ll need to go straight to the end of the alley for DJ Station, the queen mother of gay clubs in town. There, you’ll meet upcountry freelancers, shirtless gym bunnies from Singapore or Hong Kong, aging European sugar daddies and jet-lagged flight attendants. The ones with the most resilience (or the best dealers) end up at G.O.D, in nearby Soi 2/1, which doesn’t really happen until DJ Station closes at 2am.

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DINING THE MISSING BURRO NEW

Nestled in a garden down the surprisingly peaceful and residential Thonglor Soi 7, this restaurant does Mexican food thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so good that in-the-know crowds have taken noticeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;we highly recommend you book ahead. From a shipping container-turned-kitchen, the Mexican owners, two brothers, serve up traditional Yucatan cuisine: coarse, corn tortilla carnitas, decadent gringa and delicious guacamole. Wash it down with a frothy pisco sour. 145 Thonglor Soi 7, 090-913-2131. Wed-Sun 5-11pm; Mon 5-11pm. BTS Thonglor

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots

HIP THAI RESTAURANTS

80/20

Executive chef Napol Jantraget and his Canadian accomplice Andrew Martin use local ingredients and made-from-scratch elements for a daringly different take on Thai cuisine. The lamb tartare is a complex medley of herbs and spicy Northeastern Thai dressing, while the tea-smoked duck breast with charred young pumpkin and pumpkin puree is further proof fusion is no longer a dirty word. The desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are equally on-point.

1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936, 02-639-1135. Open Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight

ERR

Chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones of Thai fine-dining institution Bo.lan here cook up traditional Thai pub and street-side grub. The execution and produce quality is anything but pedestrian, though. be it homemade sausages from Isaan and Chiang Rai, a simple bowl of green mango macerated in fish sauce and chili powder, braised mussels in a clay pot or pla som (garlic- and jasmine-rice-cured ocean fish). Strong cocktails, too!

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

ERR

394/35 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-2291. Open Tue-Sun 11am10pm

80/20

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

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DINING

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supanniga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Don’t miss the pu jah (blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell), panang nuea lai (beef chunk in red curry) and moo cha muang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves).

SOUL FOOD 555

28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm, BTS Chong Nonsi

TEP BAR

This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

This kiosk focuses on comforting Thai bites and slightly Western variations of local street food, including the Risky Chicken (fried chicken and somtam with Sriracha mayo on a Conkey’s brioche bun), Khao Soy Cowboy (pulled pork in Northern-style curry with sweet potato and mustard pickles or Australian wagyu pad krapao (fried rice with basil). If the whole thing screams Brooklyn, it may come as no surprise that Soul Food also supplies some of these dishes to hip New York hangout Baby’s All Right.

69-71 Soi Nanai, Mitrijit Rd. Soi Nana, 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am, MRT Hua Lamphong

G/F, The Commons, 335/1 Thonglor Soi 17, 02-101-4526. Open daily 11am-10pm SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

BANGKOK’S BEST OMAKASE SUSHI

Ginza Sushi Ichi

Sushi Hinata

Sushi Masato

Sushi Misaki

Tama Sushi

The name Sushi Ichi comes from a one-Michelin star omakase sushi restaurant of Masakazu Ishibashi in Ginza, Tokyo. Here, Masakazu personally sources ingredients in Tokyo every single morning and sends them here within 24 hours. Further ensuring Bangkok standards match those in Tokyo, the four-man kitchen team (roughly one chef for every five customers) rotates with the ones in Tokyo and Ichi’s Singapore branch to ensure uniform performance.

One of Bangkok’s earliest upper-tier omakase restaurants opened along with the luxury shopping mall in which it sits back in 2014, promising the finest cuts of fish brought in daily. It’s rare in omakase restaurants in that it also has a dining room, visitors in the know book their table at the kitchen counter, where chef Tomohiko Sato personally presents each of the menu’s dozen courses.

While working as head chef at New York’s Jewel Bako, Japan-native Masato Shimizu became the youngest chef in NYC ever to win a Michelin star at just 29. Now he’s moved to Bangkok and opened this omakase sushi restaurant serving just 20 diners a night. Having trained from the age of 1825 in Tokyo’s toughest kitchens, the results are superb. Reservations essential long in advance.

You’ll have to pay good attention to even spot this hidden little gem. With only 10 seats around one sushi counter, inside is equally minimal. Shizuoka-born chef Masahiro Misaki (formerly of Nippon Tei) serves an omakase meal of about 20 items, including appetizers, 12 nigiri sushi selections, a sushi roll, tamago, miso soup and a dessert. The fish here has been through a painstaking process of aging, curing or fermenting before being put together with either white- or red-vinegar sushi rice.

Tucked on the mezzanine floor above Karatama Robatayaki, Tama Sushi is helmed by chef Seiji Sudo, previously head chef of the Bangkok branch of Ginza Sushi Ichi, who here serves up something far different. Offering what’s known as a “Sushi Sho style” (in reference to Japan’s Sho family of restaurants), the prettily-plated courses aren’t limited to a sequence of nigiri but rather switch in items like conch, iwashi roll, grilled mixed rice with hairy crab meat and uni and Seiji’s signature sushi soup.

G/F, Rain Hill, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1783. Open Tue-Sun 6-11:30pm, BTS Phrom Phong

M/F, Piman 49, 46/10 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 091-871-0666. Open TueSun 6-10:30pm

LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-250-0014. Open TueSun noon-2:30pm; Tue-Sat 6-11pm; Sun 6-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

5/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5935. Open daily 11am10pm. BTS Chit Lom

3/22 Sukhumvit 31 Soi 1, 02-0400015. Open Tue-Sun 5:30-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong.

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SHOPS+SERVICES BLUE NAILS One of Thailand’s traditional fabric industries is indigo-dyed cloth (as seen worn by farmers in the Northeastern region) and a number of local young designers have been expanding the fabric’s use to more contemporary designs. Blue Nails makes menswear from cloth which has been handdyed in only natural colors with strictly no chemicals. Items range from smart-looking T-shirts, button-up shirts and jackets through to smaller accessories like ties and hats. Thanks to cardigans, long-sleeve tops and beanies, it even works for cooler temperatures back home. 1/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS National Stadium

Hot Spots

BEST MARKETS

PAK KLONG TALAD

At Bangkok’s largest flower market, flowers from around Thailand (and the world) arrive before being distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. you’ll find everything from local jasmine to imported red roses. The market is open 24 hours with different atmospheres during day and night. The liveliest period is perhaps from midnight4am, when the day’s batch of fresh flowers start to arrive, and the authentic trading action is in place.

WANG LANG MARKET

This daily market runs along the river on the lesser visited Thonburi side, next to Siriraj Hospital, and is filled with locals of all ages every day. Stalls sell everything from food to toys, but the majority of the buzz centers on secondhand clothes for men and women—all at incredibly low prices. Most visitors reach the market by boat from Sathron Pier or Prachan Pier. Siriraj Pier, Wang Lang Rd. Open daily 10am-6pm

From Memorial Bridge to Khlong Lord, Chak Phet Rd. Open daily 6-6am

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

Y SPOTLIGHT

CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET

Chatuchak weekend market can be a daunting shopping experience. The sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets, spread over 70-rai plot of land. You’ll find anything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes, antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists. Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. MRT Kamphaeng Phet/Chatuchak

GREEN VINTAGE NIGHT MARKET

Just a stone’s throw from Chatuchak Weekend Market, this impressively funky space blends a low-key selection of fashionable clothing stalls and rows of industrial-slash-retro drinking parlors. Expect a down-to-earth crowd rummaging through keepsakes such as fashion items, antiques and home decor. For ‘80s and ‘90s kids, there are lots of old-school toys like Tamagotchi and Nintendo devices.

3 Kamphaeng Phet Rd., 092-461-5951. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight

TALAD ROD FAI

This vintage market is home to small stalls selling all sorts of retro bric-a-brac, from antique toys and vinyl to secondhand clothes and cameras. There are also plenty of vintage-inspired bars and cafes. To reach it, take the BTS to Udomsuk and then take a taxi. Don’t be put off if all you see on arrival is plastic junk—the best finds are at the back of the market.

Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-1am

ALEXANDER LAMONT Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful. 2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

INFINITY SPA

Silom’s latest spa looks like a stylish laboratory with its raw concrete floor, mint green walls, yellow ceiling and industrial furnishings. Programs run from head to toe (including mani-pedis) and use both Thalgo and homemade products. Relaxatherapy is a pocket-friendly, 60-minute massage featuring home-made oil, while Infinity Jetlag Facial is a Thalgo treatment that claims to revive post-long-haul-flight skin. For nails, manicures use beautifully shimmery OPI polishes. Sun Square, 1037/1 Silom Soi 21, 02-237-8588. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Surasak.

Hot Spots FITNESS CENTERS

BOUNCE THAILAND

THE LAB

Bangkok’s leading spinning—that’s cycling on the spot to music in group classes—facility boasts the best equipment, facilities and trainers. A class fits 40 students, each provided with a stationary exercise bike and pair of toe-clipping cycling shoes. During the 45-minute class, you’ll be group-spinning with movements (including pushups and sprints) aligned with a background playlist put together by your trainer. You’ll also burn between 500-800 kcal, according to Tribe’s owners.

2/F, NST One Building, Silom Soi 1, 02-662-1618. Open Mon-Thu 6:45am-9pm; Fri 6:45am-7pm; Sat 9am6pm. BTS Sala Daeng

1/F, President Tower, 973 Phloen Chit Rd., 097-0151617. Open Mon-Fri 7am-10pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. BTS Chit Lom

BOUNCE THAILAND

Y SPOTLIGHT

At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play. 5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02014-2446. Open daily 10am-10pm. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

RAJADAMNERN SINGHA MUAY THAI ACADEMY (RSM)

Making muay Thai (Thai kickboxing) trendy, this academy offers a wide range of courses designed for different age ranges, abilities and levels of dedication. The gym may look fancy, but the training is deadly serious, carried out by lead Muay Thai coaches from Rajadamnern Stadium. Along with regular classes, they also cater for private groups and wannabe pros. 3/F, Seenspace, 251/1 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2384. Open daily 9am-9pm

TRIBE

Bangkok’s most serious body-image freaks head here to get kiked into shape by some of the best trainers in the city. This isn’t your usual drop-in gym, rather training under the guidance of a coach for strength and conditioning. Burn some fat or sculpt those perfect pecks either as part of a group class or with a personal trainer (also available for private groups). If you’re staying on Sukhumvit then there’s a branch beside BTS Phrom Phong, too.

TRAINING GROUND

Located in a 1,200-sq-meter warehouse, this training facility is dubbed the biggest CrossFit gym in Asia. It boasts strong coaching staff and world-class equipment that caters to members and visitors of all levels, such as Olympic-lifting platforms, pullup bars, bumper plates and Concept-2 rowers. Apart from the fitness facilities, the gym also houses a cafe serving fresh coffee and protein shakes, clean showers and lounge areas. 36/2 Sukhumvit Soi 69, 094-479-6988. Open Mon-Fri 7am-9pm; Sat-Sun 9am-3pm. BTS Phra Khanong

The Oriental Spa As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house including five specialty suites, 10 private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils; the Oriental Organic Journey, a 2.5-hour fullbody detoxifying scrub and steam; the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin, and plenty more options. Full day and half day spa packages are also available. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open daily 9am-10pm.

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ATTRACTIONS DINOSAUR PLANET NEW

Don’t expect Universal Studios, but this 500-million-baht theme park is a fun way to kill a couple hours. The focus is on dinosaurs, which translates to a lot of very cool animatronic, life-sized reptiles bobbing their heads and blinking at you with their doey eyes. Beyond the selfie opportunities, you can climb onto the Dino Eye for a rather unimpressive view (given that the surrounding buildings are taller than the ferris wheel), watch a “4D” film, or get chased about by guys in raptor suits. 554/1 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-833-2209. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

Hot Spots COOL TOURS AROUND BANGKOK

BANGKRACHAO

CYCLING BANGKRACHAO WITH SPICE ROADS

Escape the hustle and bustle of the inner city and go on a 25km bike journey that takes you through villages, floating markets and green jungle on the lesser-visited west bank of the Chao Phraya River. You’ll get to see historical attractions like temples from the Ayutthaya period and a grand Buddha image. The tour costs B1,350 inclusive of bike and helmet. Two participants are required for the trip, which departs at 8:15am and 12:45pm.

www.spiceroads.com/tours/bangkok_jungle

LEARNING TO COOK THAI FOOD WITH COOKLY

Discover how to make traditional Thai food or artistically carve fruits with Cookly, a platform where you can book incredible hands-on cooking classes, wine tastings, and food tours with a range of venues across the city. They offer a wide selection of culinary adventures not just in Bangkok but also Chiang Mai and Khao Yai. Prices range from B1,000 to B3,500 per class.

MIDNIGHT TUK TUK FOOD TOURING WITH HIVESTERS

Take a four-hour tour of Bangkok nightlife from the back of one of this city’s iconic motorized rickshaws. You’ll pass through seven must-visit food spots to eat the best pad Thai and khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice) you’ve ever tasted, along with other popular dishes beloved of Thais. This local experience will not only satisfy your appetite but also support street vendor communities. On top of that, you’ll get to see flower markets and temples after sunset for the price of B1,900 per person. www.hivesters.com

VISITING LOCAL COMMUNITIES WITH LOCAL ALIKE

Explore the nooks and crannies of the local communities in Ban Bat and Kudeejeen and learn about the religious culture of alms bowl production. These traditionally hand-made bowls serve a significant purpose in Buddhism. The Lost Treasure in Bangkok itinerary also includes a boat ride along the Chao Praya River and a dessert workshop where you’ll get to make chor muang (Thai steamed dumpling). The tour requires at least two travelers and costs B3,740 per person. www.localalike.com/listing/lost-treasure-in-bangkok

DISCOVERING THE OLD TOWN WITH EXPIQUE

Explore Rattanakosin Island, AKA Bangkok’s Old Town, by foot with this two-hour tour hopping around the area’s famous historical landmarks. While the tour promises must-visit destinations including The Grand Palace and Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha), you’ll also discover some lesser-known spots such as Wat Ratchapradit and Saranrom Park. Book now at expique.com for B900 per person. www.expique.com/tour/bangkok/rattanakosin-storywalking-tour

Y SPOTLIGHT

National Museum Formerly the viceroy’s palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You’ll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

www.cookly.me

LOCAL ALIKE

4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open TueSun 9am-4pm.

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ART

EXHIBITION

IN NOWHERE LAND

French-English photographer Didier Mayhewâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first solo show documents the lives of children from the Terai, an area between the Indian border and the Nepali Himalayan foothills. Mayhew captured the images during three years spent following the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nomadic families, whose lives stand in stark contrast to the much-photographed people of Kathmandu Valley. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-2346700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Surasak

Hot Spots BEST CONTEMPORARY GALLERIES

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY

This massive, purpose-built white cube right by Lumpini Park facilitates all forms of art, whether it's paintings, video instalation or live performance. Its opening exhibition, for which it set up a maze of tunnels to display works by celebrated local cartoonist Wisut Ponnimit, was an instant smash. The owner is young and rooted in Bangkok's art, skateboard and design subcultures, ensuring a cool if sometimes clique-y crowd.

BANGKOK CITYCITY GALLERY

13/3 Sathorn Soi 1, 083-087-2725. Open Wed-Sun 1-7pm. MRT Lumphini

87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. Open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Surasak

100 TONSON GALLERY

One of the foremost contemporary art galleries in Bangkok, 100 Tonson regularly welcomes such high profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija. The gallery's greatest pride is its ability to take Thai artists abroad, and it was the first Thai gallery to be present at Art Basel, in Switzerland. Located in a beautiful modern building down a leafy soi, 100 Tonson was designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre.

Y SPOTLIGHT

100 Soi Tonson, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-010-5813. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. BTS Phloen Chit/ Chit Lom

BANGKOK ART AND CULTURE CENTRE (BACC)

Set in the bustling area across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the city's foremost art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors. They can vary wildly in quality, but regularly offer glimpses of the country's best privately-held contemporary art collections. The center also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops, and a movie theatre on its top floor.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

Manit Sriwanichpoom's two-floor gallery sits in a restored pre-war shop-house. Open since 2006, it's still Bangkok's preeminent photography gallery, with a focus on Thai society's transformation and urbanization. Kathmandu also preserves and rediscovers the works of forgotten masters of Thai photography. Customers interested in acquiring one of Manit's works can also browse them from a folder, just like in photo-art shops of days long past. It also includes a specialty book store focused on Hinduism and Shamanism.

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

H GALLERY

Set in a beautiful late-19th century, wooden building, H Gallery's exhibitions represent emerging contemporary Asian artist and are curated by Brian Curtin, one of the foremost experts in this field. One of Bangkok's more daring art spaces, it's not afraid to host provocative or controversial work. 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 085-021-5508. Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm; Mon 10am-6pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

National Museum Formerly the viceroy's palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You'll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets. 4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

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NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 MARCH 2017 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1 Tucking into the lavish Sunday brunch buffet of Anantara Siam’s Aqua courtyard. See page 6.

7 Booking ahead for the 20-course !2 Trying our hand at Thai cooking !7 Exploring the heritage of Thai-

2 Exploring the exquisite antique collection and classic Thai architecture of Jim Thompson House. See page 26.

8 Watching the King’s Cup Ele- !3 Spending a night at Rodfai Mar-

omakase sushi experience of Sushi Ichi. See page 23.

phant Polo Tournament while raising funds for street elephants. See page 4.

with one of the classes offered by Cookly. See page 26.

ket shopping for vintage finds and sampling delicious street eats. See page 24.

Chinese culture at Wat Traimit and Wat Mangkhon Kamalawat. See page 16.

!8 Shopping with Bangkok’s coolest hipsters at The Great Outdoor Market. See page 4.

3 Heading up to Red Sky rooftop 9 Strolling around Chinatown to !4 Checking out an exhibition at !9 Sampling some seriously good bar for sunset drinks. See page 22.

BACC, the captial’s foremost contemporary art space. See page 27.

4 Going on a shopping marathon

sample the neighborhood’s many delicious street-food treats. See page 16.

at the malls and boutiques of Siam Square. See page 24.

!5 Taking dinner on the terrace of !0 Drinking Thai herbal cocktails the wonderfully old-school Manda- @0 Burning off some calories at while listening to traditional xylo-

rin Oriental hotel before knocking

classic Thai cooking in a chic setting at Supanniga Eating Room. See page 23.

Tribe spin studio. See page 25.

5 Enjoying a lazy evening of tacos phone music at Tep Bar. See page back some classic cocktails at The and pisco sours in the garden of Thonglor’s new Mexican spot, The Missing Burro. See page 22.

6 Tasting the deliciously inventive takes on Thai food at modern bistro 80/20. See page 22.

23.

Bamboo Bar. See page 20.

!1 Taking the ferry over to Bang Krachao for a cycle ride through unspoiled jungle moments from the city. See page 26.

!6 Drinking in the up-and-coming Talad Noi neighborhood, where Soulbar provides great live sounds. See page 21.

@1 Jumping about on the giant trampolines at Bounce Thailand. See page 25.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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where Thailand

Marriott Sukhumvit 57

The Sukhothai Bangkok Hotel

Millennium Hilton Hotel

The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Hotel

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VIE Hotel

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Novotel Bangkok Hotel

W Bangkok Hotel

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Hotels in other province

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Serviced Apartment Adelphi Forty-Nine Courtyard Marriott

Shopping Mall Central World

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn Thailand

Tamarind Village at Chiang Mai

Peninsular Plaza

Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

The Emporium Department Store

Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Sheraton Krabi

The River City Shopping Complex

Peninsula Bangkok Hotel

Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya Hotel

Phachara suites

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

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Devarana Spa

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Chandara Resort

Elemis Spa at St. Regis

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Shangri-La Hotel

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Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort

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Sofitel So

Hard Rock Hotel

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Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa

Holiday Inn Pattaya

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St Regis

Siripanna Villa Resort & Spa Chiang Mai

Yodpiman River Walk

Swissotel Le Concorde Hotel

Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai

Swissotel Nai Lert Park Hotel

Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, Centara

The Berkeley Hotel

Boutique Collection

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Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

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Ayara Hilltops Boutique Resort & Spa

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