Where® Thailand February 2017

Thailand

PLUS

F E B RU A R Y 2 0 1 7 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Yachting around Phuket Bangkok coffee culture

LOVE STRUCK

The most romantic couples’ experiences in the capital

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l FEBRUARY 2017

The Guide BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Head up to these sky-high bars for a laidback take on rooftop drinking and dining.

26 DINING

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Experience the best of Thai cusine at these beautiful riverside restaurants, and take a taste trek through the streets of Chinatown.

ROMANTIC RENDEZVOUS

28 SHOPS+SERVICES Bring home the hottest Thai designer fashion from Bangkok's best new boutiques.

Where to celebrate Valentine's Day with your loved one in Bangkok.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS Hit the greens at one of the many world-class golf courses that surround the capital.

COFFEE 10 CAFE CULTURE

30 ATTRACTIONS

The best spots to pick up breakfast with a perfectly poured flat white.

10

Discover Thailand's royal heritage and ancient traditions at these not-to-be-missed cultural landmarks.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

14 CHARTERED WATERS

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

Set sail on the Andaman Sea with a full-service Phuket yacht charter.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 OLD TOWN

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Amid crumbling walls sit time-honored streetfood specialists, as well as a raft of cool bars and galleries.

ALSO INSIDE

20 PHLOEN CHIT

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

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This upscale district of luxury shopping is also home to a drinking and dining scene with a sophisticated eye for international trends.

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Deputy Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Designer Peeraya Sirathanisa

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine

Staff Writer Bonnie Sananvatananont

Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan

Contributors Natcha Saguankiattichai, Choltanutkun Tun-atiruj

Marketing Manager Pymporn Pinkaew

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

HOT DATES

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For Contacts: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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FEB 16-19

STAR FRUIT Bangkok’s biggest music festival makes its return this month after postponing from the end of December.

Wonderfruit sees three days of live music, art installations, outdoor feasts and performance pieces take over a group of fields two hours’ drive from Bangkok.

This year’s headline acts include Rudimental, Shura and Lianne Le Havas. Tickets available from B4,800. www.wonderfruitfestival.com

FEB 16-19

FEB 28

FEB 3-4

FEB 23-25

The most extravagant Valentine’s Day splurge in Bangkok this year comes courtesy of the Peninsula hotel. The Fly High Champagne Afternoon Tea and Helicopter Tour kicks off on the hotel’s 37th floor with a bottle of Peninsula-branded Champagne and a collection of high tea delicacies, followed by a 15-minute helicopter tour of the city. The price? B88,888 per couple.

Legendary ‘80s hair rockers Guns N’ Roses make a stop in Bangkok as part of their Not in this Lifetime Tour. The original lineup including lead singer Axl Rose, guitarist Slash and bassist Duff McKagan will take the stage at one of Thailand’s biggest live music arenas as the very last stop of the tour’s Asian leg. Tickets B3,5006,500.

Every once in a while, Bangkok’s leading art spaces group together to hold Galleries’ Night, a wonderful introduction to the city’s contemporary art scene as well as a way to meet the city’s creative personalities. Feb 3’s event kicks off at 5pm from Kathmandu Photo Gallery and includes the galleries found along Bangkok’s riverside. On Feb 4, the event moves to Sukhumvit Road, starting at 5pm from Hof-Art Residency.

Father and son duo Diego and Ruben Campos of the Michelin-starred Rincon de Diego restaurant in Tarragona, Spain, will cook a four-course menu at Vertigo TOO at Bangkok’s Banyan Tree Hotel on Feb 23-25. The pair specialize in Catalan cuisine with creative and contemporary flourishes.

Dinner costs B4,200 or B6,300 with wine pairing.

SKY HIGH

The Peninsula, 333 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-020-2888

WELCOME TO ART THE JUNGLE ROUTE

SCG Stadium. Tickets available at Thaiticketmajor.com

SKETCHES OF SPAIN

Banyan Tree, 21/100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200

www.fb.com/galleriesnight

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE

Bangkok’s most romantic date spots and where to pick out the perfect gifts.

ROMANTIC DINING J’AIME BY JEAN-MICHEL LORAIN An offshoot of the three-Michelin-starred Cote Saint Jacques in Burgundy, J’aime (French for “I love”) is headed by Amerigo Sesti, who brings a contemporary feel and fondness for sharing plates to classical French cuisine. Dishes like Chef Lorain’s signature quail and foie gras tourte, caviar floating island and pan-seared scallops with pork ravioli get modern touches, and are served by an exemplary front-of-house staff led by Chef Lorain’s daughter Marine.

2/F, U Sathorn Bangkok, 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli, Sathorn Rd., 02-119-4899. Open daily noon2:30pm, 6-10pm

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

BAMBOO BAR

This genius concept from Joel Robuchon, the most lauded French chef in the world, takes the chain restaurant to its most elegant extreme, giving diners the feel of an upscale sushi bar while serving up impeccably-executed versions of French favorites. The Bangkok branch offers a red and black-accented dining space that allows guests the chance to see their food being made, and the menu is studded by L’Atelier standbys like free-range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato puree.

5/F, MahaNakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

LE NORMANDIE

LE NORMANDIE

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

Possibly the most well-known fine-dining restaurant in Bangkok underwent a minor revamp last year to ensure that it continues to set the standard for service and cuisine among eateries with Michelin-star pretensions in Thailand. Chef Arnaud Dunand

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Sauthier, who enjoys a formidable resume after stints with culinary giants Georges Blanc, Marc Veyrat and Emile Jung, helms the classically French menu.

Live classical music on Wed, Fri, Sat and Sun from 9pm.

5/F, The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoen Krung Rd., 02-659-9000 #7390.

Open Mon-Sat 7-10pm, noon-2pm

BAMBOO BAR

NAHM Still considered the “must-go” destination of every aspiring foodie in Bangkok, Nahm—helmed by Australian chef David Thompson—does Thai food made with the very finest ingredients using the most traditional methods. The most popular offerings at Nahm are the set menus, which usually feature dishes like blue swimmer crab curry with fermented rice noodles and the salad of fresh river prawns and Asian pennywort served in communal, Thai-style fashion.

G/F, Metropolitan by COMO, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-6253388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

G/F, Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63. Open daily 6pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar.

NAHM

1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin THE DINING ROOM

THE DINING ROOM AT THE HOUSE ON SATHORN In what used to be the Soviet Embassy, this standalone outpost of the neighboring W Bangkok hotel has one of the most stunning dining rooms in town, artfully blending the building’s period details with considerate modern touches. Half of the restaurant’s 40 seats are at a long, wooden counter facing the kitchen, where the team turns out Asian-inspired dishes like Hunting (duck breast lying on splashes of red pomegranate sauce and burnt onion powder as gunpowder) and Red Parfait (foie gras torchon topped with beetroot leather and tapioca, served with brioche).

106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4025. Open daily noon5:30pm, 6-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

INTIMATE DRINKS IRON BALLS GIN DISTILLERY Resembling a forgotten British gentlemen’s club, this colonial-inspired cocktail lounge does a good job deceiving you into thinking it’s always been in its tucked away location.

Best of all, it’s also a working gin distillery, crowned by a huge copper still where the owner brews his own Iron Balls gin brand.

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EXPLORING BANGKOK Q&A Accolades for this narrow speakeasyreferencing cocktail hot-spot have put it at no. 26 in the 2016 Asia’s Best Bars awards. Praise goes both to its flawlessly cool setting—which mixes the look of a classic railway carriage with a Tokyo sushi counter-style bar—and the drinks. We’re partial to the pinewood and citrus-heavy Rough Negroni, made from homemade gin, and Comte De Monte Cristo.

235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-1445. Open Mon-Sat 7pm-2am. BTS Asoke

VOGUE LOUNGE This cocktail bar serves more than just expensive drinks by a highly regarded Japanese mixologist. They’ve also brought onboard a Michelin-star-winning chef, Vincent Thierry, formerly of Caprice in Hong Kong, to create a menu of incredibly elegant (and equally delicious) small plates. The 1920s-inspired bar features a small indoor area dominated by plum leather, bronze and marble, while outside is a beautiful air-conditioned terrace.

6/F, Mahanakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0697. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

COUPLE’S SPAS AWAY SPA

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

Split into four zones, this spa’s use of soft LED lights gives it a meditative, relaxing mood with walls and treatment beds glowing softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink.

Treatments range from the signature Away Massage Metamorphosis using essential oils to nurture stress points all the way to detox treatments like a four-hands mineral scrub. The Style Lab Beauty Salon also offers grooming, manicure and pedicure services. Other facitilities include a sauna, steam room, Turkish bath, jacuzzi and VIP suite.

Celebrated Taiwanese designer Tony Chi‘s club-style hotel spa is one of Bangkok’s most beautiful wellness retreats. The indoor-outdoor setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa, featuring six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. Treatments include full day ‘Retreats’, half-day ‘Escapes’, and a huge variety of facial, full-body and massage options.

6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn ,Silom, Bangrak, 02344-4160. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 9am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

OKURA SPA

This is truly one of the best spas in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a massage. Their signature treatments include The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurveda and Shiatsu techniques; The Harmony of Tad Si The, a treatment using Thai herbal compresses and aromatic oils to relax muscles and pressure points; and the Kenya Sensory Journey, a skin-rejuvenating body scrub, wrap and oil massage with native herbs and plants.

Tucked away on the 25th floor of the luxury Japanese hotel, this contemporary oriental space features five private treatment rooms hidden along a dimly-lit walkway. The highlight is the Okura Take Relief bamboo massage, during which therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles to release stress before a soak in a big bathtub.

3/F, Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-6363596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom

25/F, The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-6879000. Open daily 10am-10pm

THE ORIENTAL SPA As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house includ-

AWAY SPA

VOUGE LOUNGE

OKURA SPA

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CONCIERGE PICKS What’s your favorite restaurant in Bangkok for a romantic date night?

Kovit Vijukanakul Centara Grand at CentralWorld OBJECT OF DESIGN STORE

ing five specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy signature massage of essential oils; the Oriental Organic Journey, a 2.5-hour full-body detoxifying scrub and steam; the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin, and plenty more options. Full day and half day spa packages are also available.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000.

Open daily 9am-10pm

PERFECT THAI GIFTS ALEXANDER LAMONT Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.

Room L2-01/1, 2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors.

The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and show off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and

scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (a mustvisit within the walking distance of BTS National Stadium) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

Sala Rim Naam at the Mandarin Oriental is a great choice just because it ticks so many boxes. Guests can choose to either sit indoors where a traditional Thai dance is performed or enjoy the river view outdoors in a quieter setting.

Sala Rim Naam, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000

9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm.

BTS Sala Daeng

OBJECT OF DESIGN STORE You’d have to look long and hard to find better contemporary Thai design than the beautiful pieces at this studio. ODS focuses on home decor pieces, jewelry and other accessories from breakthrough Thai names including the Demark Award-winning labels Trimode and Plural Designs, ceramics from Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio, and pop artinspired furniture from 56th Studio and Cast.

Other up-and-coming names to look out for include Sur (table lamps) and R.Noo Studio, Ce’halo (ceramics).

Piyapong Putkhrua Emporium Suites by Chatrium Even though it’s pretty small, Karmakamet Diner has a very romantic atmosphere that is ideal for a date night. It’s also in a very central area making it easy to find. The food mainly consists of delicious European dishes.

Karmakamet Diner, 30/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-262-0700

3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS National Stadium

OTOP HERITAGE One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.

Veera Jindareung Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit For a truly romantic experience, the Manohra Cruise run by the Anatara Riverside is an unconventional but brave choice.

You’ll be treated to an evening of fine Thai dining while drifting down the Chao Phraya River at sunset on a converted rice barge.

Anantara Bangkok Riverside, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd., 02-476-0022

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605975. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit FEBRUARY 2017 I W HERE THA ILA N D 9

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COFFEE

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CAFE CULTURE

Grab breakfast and a perfect cup of coffee at Bangkok’s favorite neighborhood cafes.

By Oliver Irvine LUKA

SATHORN/SILOM LUKA

CERESIA

This cafe’s focus on light fare (salads, sandwiches) and coffee has made it a favorite with Sathorn’s busy professionals.

On the menu is down-to-earth comfort food like breakfast burritos; grilled cheese and sauteed musroom sandwiches served with raspberry ketchup; and the “sloppy meatball sandwich” with fresh mozzarella, roasted garlic, sweet marinara and a brioche bun.

Casa Pagoda, 64/1 Pan Rd., 02-637-8558. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9am-7pm. BTS Surasak

CERESIA COFFEE ROASTERS The second cafe by this group of ThaiVenezuelan artisanal roasters is all about freshly roasted, single origin beans sourced from all over the world. There are also baked items from Austro Pro, cakes from Sticky Piggy and sandwiches from Le Lapin available, but no tea or cocoa drinks.

Tisco Tower, 48/2 Sathorn Rd., 098-251-4327.

Open daily 8am-6pm. MRT Silom ROCKET S12

ROCKET COFFEEBAR S 12 The uber chic brunch spot looks delightful—abundant light, warm wood tones and little details like fruit bowls, chrome coffee machines and glossy magazines—and dishes out a short but sweet menu of idealized brunch dishes. You can’t go wrong with the eggs Benedict in a wonderfully rich hollandaise sauce, the open-faced Scandinavian sandwiches, or the coffee.

149 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-635-0404. Open daily 7am8pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI INK & LION CAFE Both espresso machine and hand-brewed coffee in an industrial setting adorned with art pieces, bare bricks and wooden furniture. The barista, Adithep Pinijpinyo, sources his beans from local roasters such as Phil Coffee Roaster, Pacamara and Ceresia. You can also munch on pastries like lemon tart and coconut cake.

1/7 Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-002-6874. Open Mon-Tue 9am-6pm; Thu 9am-6pm; Fri 9am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. BTS Ekkamai

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GOOD OLD DAYS

BAAN LUANG RATCHAMAITREE

CHARMING CHANTHABURI

SAMRAB CHAN

From a unique blend of pan-Asian and colonial architecture and local delicacies to a hipstery pop-up winter camp, this historic town has more than just beaches to offer.

Chanthaburi is famous for its pristine beaches, national parks and gothic-style Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. But it’s the city’s waterfront that has recently attracted hip Thais to come sip coffee amid the locals. Here’s how to make the best of this authentic destination.

Embrace the slow life Start your day with a stroll through the long-standing Chantabun Waterside Community at dawn or a jog along the river. This sleepy town and the wooden shop-houses still maintain their charm, which harks back to the reign of King Rama V. All that activity should whet your appetite. Stop by the morning markets where you will be surrounded by fresh produce and street-food stalls selling guay jub (peppery soup), congee rice, mangosteen and moo ping (pork skewers). If this all sounds like a bit much for breakfast, stick to patong koh, the locals’ favorite Chinese deep-fried dough sticks.

Indulge in the town’s rich culture and heritage You’re now ready for your architectural tour. The Chanthaburi waterfront’s Sino-colonial shop-houses now serving as shops, museums and hostels speak strongly of the unique culture and heritage of this once prosperous city. Pop into House Number 69 (081-945-5761, Sukhapiban Rd.), a wooden house with an intricately carved balustrade, which hosts an exhibition on the area’s rich past. Next up, Baan Luang Prakob Nitisarn (Sukhapiban Rd.) is one of the oldest Peranakan estates in town. Top it all off with Baan Luang Ratchamaitree (088-843-4516, Sukhapiban Rd.), which serves as a mini museum

Brought to you by TAT

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and boutique guesthouse of 12 rooms. A night in one of the inn’s antique rooms starts from B1,250, including breakfast by the river. Rooms are simple, but their heavy use of wood and modest furnishings imbues them with oodles of retro charm.

Family tradition is reborn It’s lunchtime! The returning generation of Chanthaburi locals is also reinventing a culture by embracing their unique heritage while protecting the city from becoming a lifeless museum. Rocket Ice Cream (039-311- 216) sells its family’s recipe for delicious frosted treats directly from a stall in front of their wooden home, where you can enjoy intense flavors like durian and other local marquee fruits. In the heart of Chanthaburi’s increasingly popular old community, Chantabun, lies the new riverside restaurant and guesthouse Samrab Chan (092-434-6226). The restaurant, located right opposite the gothic church, delivers Chanthaburi favorites including pad Thai sen chan (stir-fried noodles, B75) and moo chamuang (pork curry with garcinia cowa leaves, B120). Note that you can also stay here: ask for the master bedroom which looks out over the church and the river (starting from B800 a night). Chanthorn Pochana (039-327-179) is the most famous Chan restaurant in town and considered a destination in itself by inthe-know foodies. It integrates the abundant fruits of Chantaburi into age-old recipes, such as the durian

C.A.P CAFE AND PEOPLE

massaman curry or the mangosteen spicy salad.

They also cook some of the most delicious sen chan pad poo (stir-fried noodles with crab, B50-B100).

It’s a nostalgic blend of old and new A leisurely afternoon in Chantaburi is the perfect opportunity to sample the city’s growing coffee culture.

Tucked between old shop-houses, the hottest coffee destination is currently C.A.P Cafe and People (085- 499-6266), famed for its drip coffee using local roasted beans. Come nightfall, head out of town to Good Old Days (085-969-9609, fb.com/goodolddays1990), a pop-up winter camp running Fridays and Saturdays throughout February, which hosts small music gigs in front of a campfire, followed by vinyl DJ sets playing ‘90s-heavy playlists. Located near Khao Soi Dao, you can sleep there to enjoy the national park the day after. The regular tents go for B1,950 per person for one night or B3,900 for two nights.

To plan your trip, visit the TAT website at www.tourismthailand.org

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COFFEE

CASA LAPIN X49

ROOTS COFFEE ROASTER

ROOTS COFFEE ROASTER

KAIZEN COFFEE CO.

This tiny coffee spot is where the city’s real coffee snobs go to drink. From beginnings in an old shop-house, it has since moved into the Thonglor neighborhood’s hippest development, The Commons, where it acts as the testing space for upstairs’ Roast bistro. Don’t miss the deliciously fruity cold brew poured from the tap.

M/F, The Commons, 335 Thonglor Soi 17, 097-0594517. Open Mon-Thu 8am-8pm; Fri-Sun 8-9am

Ekkamai’s quiet end is home to the all-white coffee enterprise of three (fittingly hip) buddies who were fascinated by Australia’s coffee scene. Here, the brews go well beyond long black and flat white, nonetheless. (This is Bangkok, after all.) You can expect nitrogen-brewed coffee along with tea, experimental health drinks and a brunchy menu of bacon and eggs on ciabbata or tomatoes, avocado and feta on sourdough.

CASA LAPIN X49

Tai Ping Tower, 582/5 Ekkamai Soi 26 and 28, 098831-6009. Open daily 7am-7pm

Rough wood tables, exposed brickwork and imposing-looking coffee equipment— this charming but tiny cafe offers a slice of Brookyn in Bangkok thanks to the owner’s keen eye for decorating (by day he’s an interior designer). Not just a pretty space, it also serves a serious cup of coffee—choose from espresso machine, drip or French press, expertly made and served with baked goods sourced from young Thai entrepeneurs.

Opposite Samitivej Hospital, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 081261-2040. Open daily 8am-5pm

KAIZEN COFFEE CO.

RIVERSIDE/OLD TOWN ELEFIN COFFEE A stone’s throw from the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, this charming Thai cafe is all about local beans, serving only 100-percent arabica sourced from Chiang Rai, which they roast themselves right here in the cafe. The coffee menu is short as they brew only from an espresso machine, but you can still enjoy a classic cup of coffee.

394/1-2 Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1115. Open daily 7am-10pm WANDERLUST

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SIAM-PHLOEN CHIT GALLERY DRIP COFFEE The two photographers behind this joint, Piyachart Trithaworn and Natthiti Ampriwan, take their coffee so seriously that they source and roast the beans themselves. As the name suggests, it’s all about the drip brew method here.

The menu is short, as the owners are advocates of single-origin beans, sourced from places like Yemen and Kenya. But they’re also big believers in empowering their baristas, who are really knowledgeable, friendly and passionate.

BACC, Rama 1 Rd., 081-989-5244, 081-917-2131.

Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

BRAVE ROASTERS

SIWILAI CAFE

WANDERLUST Not far from Chinatown’s rising hipster rendezvous of Soi Nana, Wanderlust sources its beans from Chiang Mai to create perfect espressos, drip coffee and coffee-based mocktails. It also dishes out Melbourne cafe-inspired dishes with flavorful twists.

The chia pudding, for example, also features coconut milk and tropical fruits, while the skillet Dutch pancake mixes the crispy baby Dutch pancake style with America’s thicker, fluffier interpretation.

149-151 Rama 4 Rd., 089-757-7770. Open daily 8am7pm. MRT Hua Lamphong ELEFIN COFFEE

CANDIDE BOOKS & CAFE The coffee’s strong, the clientele’s hip and the riverside location’s perfect at this cafe within a complex of design offices owned by one of Bangkok’s leading architects. The adjoining book store might only sell Thai publications, but can throw out some wonderfully esoteric gift ideas. To get there, the ferry from in front of Royal Orchid Sheraton hotel costs all of 3 baht.

Run by one of the best coffee roasters in Bangkok, this cafe serves specialty coffee alongside easy eats and views over Siam. Coffee snobs will love the houseblends and rotating specials many of which are from Thailand and Laos.

Those with a sweet tooth can also get high on a Gingerbread Latte or the latte soft serve, which you can have with a swirl of vanilla or turned into an affogato (ice cream with an espresso shot). The food menu highlights all-day favorites from sandwiches to pasta.

3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS National Stadium

SIWILAI CAFE Attached to one of the coolest multilabel stores in town, this high-end take on coffee culture doesn’t just serve up quality brews from local roaster Pacamara.

It’ll also pour a decent cocktail from the all-conquering Sugar Ray team, including the likes of Re-charge (gin, vanilla, demerara syrup, melon, cucumber and lime). Food charts breakfast fare like Thai rice porridge with braised pork belly and poached eggs with beetroot-cured salmon and Sriracha-hollondaise sauce.

5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02160-5836. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Chit Lom/ Phloen Chit

The Jam Factory, 41/1-41/2 Charoen Nakhon Rd. Open daily 11am-8pm GALLERY DRIP COFFEE

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where

AROUND THAILAND

CHARTERED WATERS

PHI PHI ISLAND

Phuket’s incredible marine life, vast cruising ground and booming nautical infrastructure make it the perfect sailing charter destination whatever your ability on the water. By Oliver Irvine BOAT LAGOON YACHTING

T

here’s a buzzword on Phuket right now: superyachts. New legislation allowing Thai-registered superyachts to acquire charter licenses means that the Thai government and tourism ministries are pushing hard to make Phuket the number one destination in Asia for these lavish cruisers of 24 meters or above, with ambitious plans to spend around B5 billion on taking the island from 100 superyacht berths to 250.

The growing infrastructure required to accommodate the hoped-for tide of sea-going palaces also means that Phuket’s charter sailing industry has never been in better shape.

Visitors looking for competent crews, superb facilities, beautiful cruising grounds and a buzzing apres-sail culture are flocking to the island thanks to a range of charter companies whose boats cater to every nautical whim.

“Phuket offers some of the most amazing cruising grounds in the world,” says Vishal Sood, whose charter company Jabudays has operated on the island since 2007. “There’s something for everyone. You could go on a day trip or go out for a couple of nights or take a

boat out into the Andaman for a whole week— there are just so many places to visit and see.

Sailing through Phang Nga Bay you have stunning limestone cliffs, sea caves which you can kayak through, snorkeling in perfectly clear waters, then at night the water is illuminated with phosphorous plankton.”

Sood’s fleet at Jabudays boasts catamarans, monohull yachts and motor-sailing yachts that can accommodate everything from couples looking for a romantic cruise to parties of 40-60 people. “We focus mostly on bigger groups and day charters,” says Sood. “We’re also in the crewed rather than bareboat market, meaning we provide a captain, crew and service staff like chefs.”

This, he says, is generally what the market in Thailand wants, with many of the people booking Jabudays’ services having very limited to no yacht-going experience: “It’s a different market from Europe and Australia, where there are more bareboat people who are used to the ocean. In Phuket people typically have been on a boat one or two times in their life, and the island suits crewed charters. Hospitality on the

JABUDAYS

island is very good, so there are waiters, cooks and all those services.”

For those whose sea legs are more advanced, the island does also offer plenty of opportunities to get your hands on the tiller yourself. Zara Tremlett is the marine manager at Yacht Haven, a state-of-the-art marina on Phuket’s northeastern coast which accomodates up to 320 vessels. There, she says, many of the charter operators support the bareboat market.

“Thirty percent of our occupancy is from charter companies,” she says. “Elite Yachting, Asia Marine, Dream Yacht Charter—almost all of them are bareboat charters, though they will provide a crew if you’d like one. There’s also a sailing school operating here called Yachtpro. The sailing here is really for everybody. Compared to the Caribbean, where you have constant trade winds that can be intimidating for novice sailors, Phuket is much more approachable.”

Then at the very top of the market you have the superyachts. Though Thailand’s superyacht charter legislation is still young,

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ISLAND

BUDAYS

JABUDAYS

AO PO GRAND MARINA

the boats are already coming. The jewel in Phuket’s superyacht crown is a vast, 41-meter, Norman Foster-designed wedge of aluminum called the Ocean Emerald. Thailand’s first superyacht licensed under the new charter regulations is capable of cruising the seas at 12 knots despite her 346-ton weight loaded with twin jet-skis, five lavish suites and expansive teak decks surrounding floor-to-ceiling windows. For upwards of US$20,000 per day, says Sood, whose company charters her, you can take a leisurely cruise with up to 50 guests for anything up to 12 days. Of course, US$20,000 is just the starting price. Factor in fuel and other essentials like Champagne and you’ll be in for a lot more than that.

At the other end of the scale, things become a whole lot more affordable. “Charter sailing is really for everybody,” says Richard Hayes, a retired pilot whose company, Tiger Marine, has been running crewed yacht charters on Phuket for five years.

“We have an Axopar 28 which runs a crew of two and takes six passengers. A full day will cost B39,500 or B27,000 for a half day.

You’ve got a cabin, a toilet, all your comforts. It won the Dusseldorf Boat of the Year Award this year.”

In between the two scales, Tiger Marine also operates Silver Lining, a 30-meter-long, 7.6-meter-wide, sail-powered mega-yacht which has clocked up a round-the-world trip. For a cost of B195,000 per day in high season, she sails with a crew of five and accommodates up to 10 passengers across five cabins, each of whom get a daily ration of six beers and 375ml of wine.

So what does an average Phuket yacht charter involve? The possibilities are vast, with cruising that stretches all the way to Myanmar allowing for trips that can go on for a week or longer without running out of new islands and places to explore.

Hayes says that the most popular destination for charters from Phuket is Phi Phi, but that not every boat can reach the island for a day charter, and you can rack up considerable extra fuel charges. His one-day itinerary recommends exploring Phang Nga National Park, the dramatic, crescentshaped bay that hugs Phuket’s western shore. Leaving from Ao Po Grand Marina, you’ll get to take in Khao Ping Kan, the island made famous by James Bond in The Man With the Golden Gun, and the idyllic kayaking caves of Koh Hong and Koh Panak.

Back on dry land, Zara from Yacht Haven also stresses the sense of community at Phuket’s marinas. “We try very hard to create a community here,” she says. “We welcome cruising yachts and guys sailing round the world but we also have a lot of tourists coming through from charter companies.

There’s a huge restaurant here called The Deck, and on the last Friday of every month we hold a free barbecue for the community—yacht owners, crew, whoever’s around.”

Phuket might have some way to go before it welcomes a yachting jetset more at home in Monaco Harbor than Patong Beach, but for those who want to explore Southeast Asia’s most stunning marine landscapes and end the day with a cool beer, there’s nowhere else quite like it.

ESSENTIALS Ao Po Marina 113/1 Moo 6, Paklok, Phuket, 076-336-200, 085-794-7600.

Open daily 8am-5pm. www. aopograndmarina. com

LEE MARINE

Asia Marine 20/99 Moo 2, Phuket Boat Lagoon Marina, Thepkrasatti Rd., Koh Kaew, Phuket,

076-239-111. Open daily 8am-5pm. www.asia-marine. net The Deck 33/6 Moo 6, Kamala Beach, Phuket, 094-4903269. Open daily 8am-10:30pm. www.fb.com/ thedeckkamala Dream Yacht Charter 141/2 Moo 2,

Maikhao, Phuket, 076-206-492, 081-970-4020.

Open daily 8am-5pm. www. dreamyachtcharter. com Elite Yachting 20/107, 109 Boat Lagoon Marina, Phuket, 076273-476. Open daily 8am-8pm. www.fb.com/ eliteyachtingphuket

Jabudays 177/29 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Rd., Srisoonthorn, Phuket, 085-6665504, 076-620214. Open daily 8am-5pm. www. jabudays.com Tiger Marine Dock K2, Thepkasattri Rd., Boat Lagoon Phuket, 081-8939742, 089-866-

4401. Open daily 8am-5pm. www. tigermarinecharter. com Yacht Haven 141/2 Moo 2, Maikhao, Phuket, 076-397-908.

Open daily 8am-5pm. www. pyhmarina.com

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whereExploring FEBRUARY 2017 | BANGKOK

OLD TOWN The Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked in a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 OLD TOWN

20 PHLOEN CHIT

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Babble & Rum

NEW

HAZEL’S

One of Bangkok’s favorite chefs, Somkiat Pairojmahakij of Seven Spoons, has expanded his Old Town empire with this grown-up ice cream parlor. Situated just a few minutes’ walk from his flagship restaurant, Hazel’s has transformed an old printing shop into a vintage cafe that doubles as a whiskey bar. The ice cream comes from trusted local name Farm to Table with adult flavors like absinthe cream, IPA and bourbon vanilla. They also do sundaes, boozy milkshakes and cocktails.

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Athit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and interational comfort food and plenty of cocktails.

Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

!7 1/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02-

1 171 Chakkaphatdi Phong Rd., 095-918-9898. Open Tue-Fri 5-11pm; Sat-Sun 10am-11pm

633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm

MORNING

AFTERNOON

Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai), near which you’ll find the historic 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-2241333), home to some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country.

In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited

NATIONAL MUSEUM

you the palace is closed for a national holiday. Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang,

WAT PHRA KAEW

landmark in Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm. Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell

Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the four-yearold 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds and enjoy a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am5pm), whose three-meter-tall feet are

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

02-255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

JAZZ BARS Bangkok’s Old Town is a haven for jazz and blues clubs. Here are some of the best.

!4 Adhere the 13th

BROWN SUGAR

Just around the corner from backpacker-central Khao San Road, this acoustic, live blues and jazz insitution packs out every night. Indoors can only seat about 20, so you might find yourself perched outdoors, beer in hand, listening to the loud and energetic music being belted out to a crowd of old-time expats and self-styled local blues-men.

13 Samsen Rd., 089-769-4613. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www.fb.com/adhere13thbluesbar

EVENING

!5 Jazz Happens This little jazz boutique owned by Nu Vudthivichai, one of Thailand’s most prominent pianists, showcases the skills of a wide range of performers, from contestants on The Voice TV talent show to students and graduates of Silpakorn Jazz Faculty. Order a bottle of Singha, some gab glaem (Thai drinking food), and swing away.

62 Phra Athit Rd., 02-282-9934. Open daily 7pm-1am. www.fb.com/jazZhappens

!6 Brown Sugar This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen Road institution offers classic Western comfort food, cocktails and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30 pm from Tue-Sun.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 8 Sala Rattanakosin (39 Soi Tha Tien, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 9 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the build-

JAZZ HAPPENS

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.fb.com/brownsugarbangkok

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There’s also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to !0 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd. 02-221-9158), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a five-room boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere in which to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !1 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !2 Khao San Road, or head to the local drinking street of choice, Phra Athit, which is just around the corner.

Our top address there is !3 Rarb (49 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773), which specializes in Northeastern bar snacks and cocktails.

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Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam 8 Sala Rattanakosin 9 Wat Arun !0 The Deck !1 Pak Klong Talad !2 Khao San Road !3 Rarb !4 Adhere the 13th !5 Jazz Happens !6Brown Sugar !7Babble and Rum

!1

GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic.

The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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PHLOEN CHIT we like to get sartorial tips from Win, his son. Make sure you have enough time for several fittings. In the same plaza you’ll also find the cool men’s leather store 3 Zettino (098-6649516). For more high-end shopping, visit the compact but very luxurious 4 Gaysorn (02-656-1177). As well as numerous luxury international fashion

GAYSORN

labels, you’ll find Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya and Zenithorial. Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson, or indulge at 4 Panpuri Organic Spa (L/F, Gaysorn, 02-656-1199).

NEW

SANEH JAAN

Vaulted ceilings, rich vermillion-red accents and dining tables hewn from whole tree trunks create a majestic setting to indulge in refined Thai cuisine drawn from ancient recipes. Local food guru Torroong Jarungidanan, who has published two cookbooks and also writes a regular newpaper column, consulted for the menu, which packs powerfully flavored dishes like gai baan kua bai jan (free-range chicken stir-fried with wild basil) and gaeng ranjuan (shrimp-paste pork soup).

DINING This is a very international area for dining. In fact, the only cuisine that’s thin on the ground is Thai food. For respite from Central Embassy’s boutiques, pull up a blond-wood chair at 1 Siwilai Cafe (5/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5836) for organic salads, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be its delightful breakfast menu that you can enjoy with views of the British Embassy’s gardens. Prefer Italian? 5 Lenzi’s is run by a Tuscan who serves coldcuts imported directly from his family’s

!1 Glasshouse at Sindhorn, 130-132 Wireless Rd., 02-650-9880. Open daily 6-10pm

The very upscale Phloen Chit neighborhood is Bangkok’s answer to Ginza, where gleaming skyscrapers meet with residential side streets. But for every luxury boutique and fine-dining restaurant, you’ll also find a casual wine bar or neighborhood cafe with more down-to-earth appeal.

SHOPPING & GALLERIES 1 Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil

100 TONSON

Sander. For something more unique, check out 1 Alexander Lamont (2/F,

of products is limited—candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself. Nearby, on a leafy side-street, 2 100 Tonson (100 GIANNI RISTORANTE

CENTRAL EMBASSY

Central Embassy, 02-160-5772), who creates beautiful decorative objects which draw on both European and Asian design (see page 9). The luxurious materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are handcrafted by a team of skilled artisans working from Bangkok to create pieces that are both and meaningful. In the same mall, 1 Vuudh (4/F, Central Embassy, 02160-5826) is a Thai company specializing in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence. Its selection

VUUDH

Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527) is located in a beautiful building designed by renowned French designer Christian Liaigre, and regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija.

For a genuinely good Bangkok tailoring experience, stop by 3 Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 02252-9680). The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But

farm back in Italy. Sticking to fine dining, 6 Yamazato (24/F, The Okura Prestige, 02-687-9000) is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious Japanese restaurants, serving grand 6-8 course kaiseki dinners. On a more casual tip, the Mexican 3 La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, 888/25-26 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-9581) does hands-

YAMAZATO

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PHLOEN CHIT down the best quesadilla and fish taco in town, while 7 Pizza Massilia (15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi, 02-651-5091) is Bangkokians’ answer to authentic wood-fire pizza. For a truly upscale Thai dining experience, book a table at either 8Osha, Saneh Jaan (see highlight) or 4 Paste (see spotlight),

Y SPOTLIGHT

HYDE & SEEK

PIZZA MASSILIA

which specializes in heritage recipes, especially curry.

NIGHTLIFE 6 Ogu Ogu (G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-108-2255) dubs itself a sake bar and takes no little inspiration from New York. The space is all about hanging wires, lamps, wooden partitions and some patterned chairs. The food isn’t too authentic, but make it for the

5-7pm happy hour to enjoy some fun sake tasting flights. Later in the evening, head over to Soi Ruamrudee for the chic gastro bar 9 Hyde and Seek (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3). As well as lovinglymade traditional pub food with a highend twist, this bar does some seriously good cocktails, made by a team of respected barmen. For the most buzzing rooftop views in the neighborhood, head up to !0 Char (25-26/F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd.), which stand 25 stories above the same street as the U.S. Embassy.

Paste

Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, have joined forces with the aristocratic Snidwongse family, descendants of Rama II, to open this second branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Snidwongse’ ancient cook books, with a particular emphasis on curries.

Try the massaman lamb curry of crispy young durian, coconut apple and Thai cardomom.

4 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:3011pm. BTS Chit Lom

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ThewhereGuide FEBRUARY 2017 | BANGKOK

LITTLE MARKET Tucked down the small alley of Charoenkrung Soi 28, Little Market is a humble but stylishly decked out diner packed with vintage collectibles and popping colors. Small in size yet huge in personality, the food centers on Western breakfasts and burgers.

Drop by for a bowl of muesli or pancakes with housemade pineapple compote and bael fruit syrup. Another highlight is the scrumptious burger, made with 270-day grain-fed Australian black Angus beef. Don’t miss the Chiang Mai-sourced coffee.

1056 Charoenkrung Soi 28, 061-558-7689.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 NIGHTLIFE 26 DINING

28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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NIGHTLIFE NEW

DIM DIM

This candlelit, Chinese-themed cocktail bar exudes oriental cool through vintage tea boxes and rows of waving lucky cats. Bartenders whip up drinks with Chinese twists like the Oolong Tea & Orange Sour, a version of a whiskey sour made with oolong tea and orange peel-infused Wild Turkey 81 bourbon. Just as exciting is the house-infused chrysanthemum vodka—try it in a shot or in the Chrysanthemum Vanilla Fizz (with vanilla syrup, lemon, egg white and soda, garnished with chrysanthemum, lemon and orange).

Hungry? There are crispy Chinese pork platters and Hong Kong-style congee.

27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-085-2788. Open MonSat 6:30pm-1:30am

Hot Spots

1

BEST ROOFTOP BARS

ATTITUDE

Y SPOTLIGHT

Twenty-six stories above the river, this rooftop bar is all about stiff drinks and sharing plates. Artfully plated tapas dishes combine the odd nod to Asian flavors, like smoked duck lacquered in fish sauce with a tea-flavored gel. French mixologist Alexandre Hersent rolls out refreshing signature cocktails like the Bora Bora Paradise Island, featuring Absolut pear vodka, Curacao, Joseph Cartron banana liqueur, apple juice and coconut ice cream.

Avani Riverside, 257 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-4319100. Open daily 5:30pm-1am

CHAR

3

PARK SOCIETY

The restaurant serves a menu that eschews fine dining in favor of more casual, shareable bites, while the outdoor terrace offers amazing views over Lumphini Park. To eat, try the burrato di bufala with heirloom tomatoes, pan-seared Tasmanian salmon with white asparagus, leek, fennel and hollandaise sauce, and Iberico belotta with fresh melon. Out at the bar it’s all about cocktails.

ATTITUDE

2

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 6-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini

CHAR

Smalls

Be sure to head to this rooftop bar in town with an empty stomach because it’s not just about the drinks here. Over on the grill they cook up some amazing local beef from French butcher Arnaud Carre—one of the most respected food names in town. Char actually takes up the top two stories of the recently opened Hotel Indigo, with a stylish dining room downstairs and the rooftop bar up above to benefit from those amazing views across Bangkok’s “Embassy Row.” 25-26/F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd., 02-2074999. BTS Phloen Chit

This laidback, late-night bar is split over three rickety levels of an old corner townhouse where the owner’s prized collection of contemporary art matches with a hands-off approach to restoration. Book in advance if you want to nab a seat with a view on the rooftop terrace. Or head downstairs to knock back shots of absinthe (the house specialty) and mingle with a hard-drinking afterwork crowd of expats and locals.

PARK SOCIETY

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE BEST NIGHTCLUBS

Beam Thonglor’s showpiece nightclub is truly world class, featuring Asia’s first “body kinetic” dance floor that shakes vibrations into dancers’ feet.

The style is minimal, raw, casual and loud. The lounge area, dubbed the Dalmatian Room, promises easy-going electronic beats and future hip-hop (think Flume, Disclosure, Jamie XX, James Blake, Snakehips​, and more), while the main room upstairs brings quality, energetic, deep house and techno tracks from live DJs

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SCARLETT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT

This elegant wine bistro surrounded by glass on the 47th floor of the Pullman Hotel G offers sweeping views of lower Silom and the river.

The food starts at very affordable pasta dishes before you get to the signature offerings created in consultation with Chef Manuel Martinez of the two-Michelin-star Le Relais Louis XII, in Paris. Order a bold cabernet sauvignon, enjoy the view from the al fresco balcony, and spoil yourself with some really well-executed bistro food.

37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02238-1991,089-108-8744. Open daily 6pm-1am.

BTS Chong Nonsi

1/F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-7750. Open Wed-Sat 9pm-2am.

SCARLETT

BREWSKI

5

BREWSKI

The city’s newest beer bar offers 30thfloor views of Sukhumvit. Along with a free and easy party atmosphere, Brewski offers an international selection of beers in three glass sizes— 100ml for tasting, 250ml for half pint, and 470ml for full pint—with choices ranging from American craft beers to Belgian classics. There’s also a decent selection of ciders (try the Zeffer Crisp Green Apple Cider from New Zealand) and Thai-style bar munchies like sai krok Isaan (Thai-style pork sausages with fresh chilli, ginger and peanuts).

30/F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 486 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02302-3333. Open daily 5pm-1am. BTS Asok

Glow An after-hours favorite, Glow packs in locals, expats and tourists thanks to very late (or should that be early?) opening hours and one of the most consistent electronic music lineups in town. The focus is usually on drum n’ bass, techno and house, played by a wide range of Bangkok-based and visiting DJs. The place never really gets going until 11pm at the earliest.

96/4-5 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 086-614-3355.

Open Wed-Sun 10pm-3am. MRT Sukhumvit

Sing Sing Theater Prolific Bangkok-based Aussie designer Ashley Sutton’s (Maggie Choo’s, Iron Fairies) expresses his Chinoiserie fetish here in a Hollywood vision of 1930s Shanghai that’s all lanterns, red lighting and elaborate metal screens. The petite dance floor acts as a hub for a network of mezzanines, sunken bars and Sutton’s trademark warren of secret passages leading to single-table balconies and speakeasy-style backrooms.

Look for the drinks containing Iron Balls, Sutton’s own gin.

Sukhumvit Soi 45 (next to Quince), 063-2251331. Open daily 9pm-2am. BTS Phrom Phong FEBRUARY 2017 I W HER E THA ILA N D 25

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DINING NEW

LUCKY FISH

Sitting front and center at the hip 72 Courtyard complex, Lucky Fish doubles as both cafe and bar, serving Japanese munchies alongside coffee and booze. During the daytime, it rolls out chicken karaage, okonomiyaki fries, rice balls and maki rolls, while dinner time sees a greater emphasis on yakitori (grilled meat and veggies).

Drinks are similarly wide-ranging, from hojicha latte to cocktails with Japanese twists like the matcha mojito.

72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02392-6926. Open daily 10-2am.

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Hot Spots

RIVERSIDE THAI RESTAURANTS

2

ABOVE RIVA

Head up to the fourth-floor rooftop of this chic boutique hotel and you’ll find an alfresco terrace where practically every table gets prime views of the river and Wat Arun. The thick drinks menu covers most moods, from whiskey and beer to cocktails, while food adds Thai touches to Western classics, from light bites like deep-fried calamari served with salted egg yolk, to a take on osso bucco in massaman curry.

KODANG TALAY

1

4/F, Riva Arun, 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd., 02-221-1188. Open daily 7:30-11:30am, 6-11:30pm

KODANG TALAY SEAFOOD

Set in a renovated warehouse where nautical decor meets modern industrial touches (think heavy wooden tables and ropes hanging from the ceiling), this laid-back seafood restaurant boasts a massive outdoor seating area right by the river. Although locals tend to order the deep-fried sea bass and garoupa, the restaurant also makes good hard-to-find dishes such as the Southern-style gaeng som kai pla dook talay (sour and spicy soup with sea catfish eggs)—perfect with an ice-cold beer.

Ginza Sushi Ichi

Room Warehouse 7, Asiatique the Riverfront, 2194 Charoenkrung Soi 76, 092-2845610. Open daily 5pm-midnight.

Bangkok’s version of the acclaimed Ginza Sushi Ichi in Tokyo arrived in town promising an unmatched dedication to freshness. Each day the restaurant flies ingredients in from Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, even closing when Japanese holidays will delay the next shipment of fresh goods. Sushi lovers, grab a seat and get your Instagram ready for fresh-from-market omakase, and marvel as the chefs prepare each course in front of you.

LG/F, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-2500014. Open Tue-Sun noon-2:30pm, 6-10pm. BTS Chit Lom

ABOVE RIVA

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SALA RATTANAKOSIN EATERY & BAR

It might be a boutique hotel, but half of this four-story renovated shop-house is dedicated to dining in full view of the riverside’s star attraction, Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn). Pull up a seat on the outdoor terrace to feast on a menu that goes down two routes: one, elegantly plated Thai classics and regional specialties; the other, Western bistro food like crispy pork belly and tuna tatare.

For us though, the highlight is its rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping a great selection of cocktails.

SALA RATTANAKOSIN

Sala Rattanakosin Hotel, Maharaj Rd., 02-622-1388. Open daily 7-10:30am, 11am-4:30pm, 5:30-10pm

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DINING AMAZING CHINATOWN STREET-FOOD STALLS

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SALA RIM NAAM

The Mandarin Oriental’s signature Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Naam (“Room at the Water’s Edge”) combines classic royal Thai cuisine with a theater experience, offering diners a glimpse of local culture as they tuck into their multi-course meals.

Many consider the restaurant a must-try for new arrivals to the city.

Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Ave., Charoenkrung Rd., 02-659-9000 ext 7390. Open Mon-Wed noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Fri noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Sat noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm; Sun noon-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

SALA RIM NAAM

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SOI TEXAS

THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER

With its warehouse vibe and prime riverside location within The Jam Factory, which also houses a gallery space, architects offices and book store (see page TK), this kitchen dishes out food made from starchitect Duangrit Bunnag’s family Thai recipes, many of which are not very common at all. Make sure you try their nam prik (chili paste), which we find very impressive and deep in flavor. Plus, it’s served with a big tray of local vegetables like pak good and pak plang.

41/5 Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-861-0953. Open Mon 11am-11pm.

THE NEVER ENDING SUMMER BUA LOY NAAM KHING

Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades.

Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood, Soi Texas Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Try the steamed seabass in lime juice and the spicy tom yum goong (spicy and sour Thai prawn soup).

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

Pa Jin Cockle This place has been specializing in softboiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years. The sour and spicy dipping sauce here is also to die for, but if spicy isn’t your thing, there is also a sweet option.

Soi Phadungdao, Yaowarat Rd., Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

Guay Jub Ouan Pochana Located in front of an old-school cinema, this peppery pork belly rolled-noodle soup specialist is always swarming with a crowd of people, so don’t be surprised if you end up sharing a table with strangers.

Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

Jae Auan Bua Loy Naam Khing This bua loy naam khing (sesame dumplings with ginger tea) vendor has been serving the popular Chinese dessert for over 20 years.

Apart from the bestselling original sesame and ginger combination, there are also taro dumplings and tofu pudding. Not a fan of ginger? Swap it for the sweetened milk instead.

Yaowarat Rd., 081-860-1053, 081-612-5700. Open Tue-Sun 7-11.30 pm

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SHOPS+SERVICES SIAM DISCOVERY A top-to-bottom renovation of the building and total overhaul of the stores inside has made this once-aging mall a must-visit destination for any shopper. As well as all the big international brands, you’ll find a focus on the best of local, Thai-made design. Don’t miss O.D.S. (see page 9), a store dedicated to award-winning local home decor, jewelry and accessories brands, or the selection of Japanese cult labels like Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yoji Yamamoto.

The store itself is also pretty spectacular, created by Japanese design house Nendo.

989 Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. Open daily 10am10pm. BTS Siam/National Stadium

Hot Spots

BEST NEW BOUTIQUES

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DISAYA

Shimmering copper rails, smoky shag-pile carpets and rainbow-tinted glass greet shoppers of this luxurious new boutique from one of Bangkok’s top designer labels. Disaya’s feminine yet rebellious designs have caught the eye of celebrities including Jennifer Lopez, Kelly Osbourne, Amy Winehouse and Agyness Deyn. In store you’ll find the latest Disaya ready-to-wear collections as well as a curated selection of items by other international brands (think Gentle Monster sunglasses and Chiara Ferragni heels).

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#LIVE LIKE HOUND

2/F, Groove at CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-6461828. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam/Chit Lom

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Greyhound is one of Bangkok’s most successful fashion brands, but this new flagship goes beyond the brand’s signature minimal chic fashion designs to offer lifestyle accessories from other local brands. The space is designed like a homey apartment: find Grehound collections displayed as a walk-in closet in the bedroom, ceramics from Cone Number 9 in the kitchen, and Erb beauty products in the bathroom.

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183 CRAFTED STORE

Crafty ceramics and comfortable indigo cotton-wear are the go-to pieces at this hip store in the riverside shopping complex. It’s the result of a collaboration between two local brands— Cone Number 9 (ceramics) and Kasa’ Maya (indigowear)—that brings a collection of dreamy designs in charmingly imperfect patterns. Expect to find trendy clothing and bags at affordable prices, while the ceramics range from coffee cups to vases, and are just as wallet-friendly.

1/F, River City Shopping Complex, 24 Charoenkrung Rd. Open daily 10am-8pm

You really can’t go wrong with any of the styles at Bangkok cool kids’ favorite eyewear brand. The designs may be Thai, but the workmanship and qulaity is very much Japanese—exactly the country where Roseman has all its frames made out of top-notch acetate. That also makes prices which skirt below B5,000 well worth the cash. Check out the Jarvis Mahogany for some nerdy tortoiseshell style, or the Darwin Cloud with clip-on sun lenses for a vintage traveler look. In store you’ll also find a smattering of fashion accessories from other local labels.

68/2 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open daily 11am-9pm

LIVE LIKE HOUND BY GREYHOUND

1/F, Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-7894.

Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Siam

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ROSEMAN CLUB

HORSELEGMARKING

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HORSELEGMARKING

Horselegmarking‘s artist-and-founder Chalisa Pornmuttawarong turns everyday Thai culture into vivid prints for sneakers. The brand made its debut two years ago showcasing its ethical product design at Japan’s Rooms Trade Show, with a collection that takes inspiration from rod-e-taen, the Northeastern Thai all-purpose truck. Shoes come in three eye-popping patterns—butterflies and flowers, hawks, and diamonds—and are made from extra-soft cotton handprinted with silk-screens, rubber sole and suede waxed cotton lace.

320 Maharaj 9:30am-7pm

Rd.,

081-470-9895.

Open

daily

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to clubby neckties. There are other branches at Jim Thompson House (see page 30) as well as various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

9 Surawong Rd., 02-632-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm.

BTS Sala Daeng

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

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RYDE

Sweat away some of those holiday calories with one of the most high-intensity cardio workouts in the city. Spin studio Ryde claims you’ll burn up to 500kcal riding to the rhythm in one of their 45-minute classes. The international trend for spinning sees gym-goers on indoor bikes pedaling to the commands of the class instructor as high-energy pop music blares away. On-site you’ll also find cold-pressed juices, infused waters, fresh almond milk and protein shakes.

3/F, Seen Space, Thonglor Soi 13. Open daily 7am8pm

Hot Spots BEST GOLF COURSES

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THANA CITY GOLF AND SPORTS CLUB

Right on the flight path of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thana City Golf and Country offers a challenging course dotted with bunkers, lakes and streams.

There’s a special Monday golf course (B1,650 including caddy). The attached Sports Club features swimming pools, fitness, tennis, badminton, table-tennis, squash and a kid’s zone which makes it a place where family can enjoy activities together.

ALPINE GOLF CLUB

1

100/2 M.4, Bangna-Trad Highway, Bangchalong, 02336-1968. Open daily 5:30am-6pm (Golf Club); 6am10pm (Sports Club). www.thanacitygolf.com

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THAI COUNTRY CLUB

Managed by Peninsula Hotels, this 7,157yard course is known for its excellent service. The course was designed by Dennis Griffiths under US PGA international standards. It has regularly been voted Asia’s Top Course by Asian Golf magazine.

88 M.1, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 35.5, 038-570-234. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except Public Holidays) 6am9pm. www.thaicountryclub.com

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ALPINE GOLF CLUB

Since opening in 1996, the golf club, designed by legendary American golf course architect Ron M. Garl, has hosted many important international golf tournaments. It was even the spot of Tiger Woods’ Asian Tour win in 2000. Plenty of other sports are on offer thanks to a swimming pool, fitness facilities and an aerobics center at the clubhouse.

There’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi.

99 M.9 Bangkhan-Sathaneevithayu Rd., Klong 5, 02-5773333. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except public holidays). 6am-8pm. www.alpinegolfclub.com

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LE MERIDIEN SUVARNABHUMI

Just a short taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok’s Golf Resort & Spa, situated in the Summit Windmill Golf Club, has both day and night golf courses, elegant guest rooms and various leisure facilities including exclusive access to the clubhouse, spa and pool. There are also plenty of restaurants: try Favola for Italian and Latitude 13° 39’ for evening drinks.

789 M.14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 10.5, Bangplee, 02-1187777 (Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi), 02-750-2112 (Summit Windmill Golf Club). Day golf open daily 6am-5pm; night golf open Tue-Fri 4pm-12am; Sat-Sun 5:30-12am. www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

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ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Located close to the International Airport, it is easily accessed through the Motorway (BangkokChonburi). This scenic golf and country club with trees and lakes spread throughout, is known as one of Thailand’s challenging golf courses with many water hazard holes. The signature ‘Mickey Mouse’ hole (par 4 hole 16) is so dubbed due to its resemblance to the wellknown Disney Character.

69 M.7, Tambon Rd., Sisa Chorakhe Noi, Bang Sao Thong, 02-738-1010. Open Mon-Sun 6am-6pm

Yunomori Onsen & Spa Thailand’s first onsen is the real deal, meaning men must go commando, while women get the option of disposable undies (men and women bathe in separate sections). If this thing is new to you, fear not, there are cartoons detailing the whole procedure. The water is sourced directly from Wat Wangkanai in Kanchanaburi; choose from carbonated, hot, cold or jet-equipped baths to increase blood flow and rejuvenate your skin.

On top of the onsen, Thai massage, body scrub and herbal compress packages are also available, as well as an on-site cafe serving healthy food.

A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 9am-midnight

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ATTRACTIONS STANLEY MINIVENTURE NEW

The largest miniature town in Asia occupies over 1,000 sq meters with a sprawling 1:87 scale metropolis that’s only dwarfed by miniature exhibitions in the Netherlands and Germany. The tiny wonderland’s 11 zones span the Hoover Dam, a Swiss Alps farming village, a CBD featuring the Chrysler Building, Oakland Tower and Empire State Building, and a “Very Thai” zone dedicated to Bangkok landmarks from a mini Victory Monument and Hua Lamphong train station right down to the city’s tangled electrical wires. A model train runs throughout the exhibit.

2/F, Gateway Ekkamai, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd., 02248-9924. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Ekkamai

Hot Spots STUNNING HERITAGE SITES

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GRAND PALACE

Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaeo and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot.

Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-623-5500 ext.3100. Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm

5

SUAN PAKKAD

Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thai-style houses was Thailand’s first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son.

3

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE & ART CENTER

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE & ART CENTER

352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext 229.

Open daily 9am-4pm. BTS Phaya Thai

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The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop.

NATIONAL MUSEUM

2

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Formerly the viceroy’s palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You’ll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets.

4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02216-7368. Open daily 9am-6pm. BTS National Stadium

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QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

Located right next to the Grand Palace, this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers. Entry fee is included in the Grand Palace fee. If you only want to visit this museum, it’s B150 per person for adults.

Inside the main visitor’s gate at the Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-225-9430. Open daily 9am-3:30pm

Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, one of Southeast Asia’s biggest aquariums is home to over 9,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species.

The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 4D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day.

B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6872000. Open daily 10am-9pm. BTS Siam

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ART

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A LIFETIME OF WORK BY STEVE MCCURRY HIGHLIGHT

The renowned journalist and photographer, best known for the “Afghan Girl” portrait of a refugee featured on the cover of National Geographic magazine, hosts a four-month-long exhibition of his work over the decades including stunning portraits from around the world.

Through Mar 14. House of Lucie, 1 Ekkamai Soi 8.

BTS Ekkamai

Hot Spots BEST EXHIBITIONS

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THE WORLD THROUGH HIS EYES

Y SPOTLIGHT

The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre showcases the work of renowned Brazilian photographer Sebastiao Salgado, best known for his dynamic, highcontrast images that delve intimately into various societies and landscapes around the world.

Feb 80-Mar 8. Bangkok Art and Culture Centre Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 939 Rama 1 Rd. BTS National Stadium A BOY WHO WAS KIDNAPPED BY TIME

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A BOY WHO WAS KIDNAPPED

BY TIME

Artist Harit Srikhao, a fourth-year photography student at King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Ladkrabang, exhibits photos from unrelated sources but whose camera angles and tonality make them appear to be happening simultaneously in some dark, dim-lit world.

Through Feb 25. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700

2

ISM: ART EXHIBITION

Twenty-three newly graduated artists, who dub themselves the “00’s Group,” throw their first exhibition aimed at expressing individual identity through art.

Through Feb 31. HOF Art Gallery, 1588/288-290 W District, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-178-0095. BTS Phra Khanong

THE WORLD THROUGH HIS EYES

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ALIVE

Best known for graffiti featuring his iconic three-eyed character wearing animal costumes, Thai street artist Alex Face hosts a solo exhibition showcasing 30 of his latest artworks where the character is lost in a new world within a waterlily pond.

Through Feb 19. Bangkok City City Gallery, 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1. MRT Lumphini

Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) This 18,000-sq-meter, five-story building in the North of Bangkok is Thailand's biggest private museum and first significant permanent modern art collection open to the public. The works are nearly all post 1970s, and mostly post 1990s even, with plenty of realism and surrealism depicting rural life, religious Buddhist scenes or mythological motifs from the Ramayana. The highlight is the fourth floor's four rooms dedicated to the late Thawan Duchanee, Thailand's most renowned contemporary painter.

499 Kamphaeng Phet 6 Rd., 02-016-5666-7. Open Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm

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NAVIGATE

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

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!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

32 W H E R E T H A I LAND I F EB RUA RY 2 0 1 7

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 FEBRUARY 2017 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

1

6

9

!3

!0 1 Splashing out on Le Normandie’s old-school French fine-dining experience at the venerable Mandarin Oriental hotel. See page 6.

6 Capping off a day of exploring in the Old Town with the boozy, adult ice creams of Somkiat Paijmahakij’s Hazel’s cafe. See page 18.

!4

!1 Checking into the luxurious !6 Playing a round of night golf on I.Sawan spa for a full day of pampering.

See page 9.

the beautiful course of Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi, followed by a drink at Latitude 13° 39’. See page 29.

!2 Booking a table at Paste to experi2 Setting sail on the Andaman 7 Taking in the sounds of Bangkok’s ence a refined yet uncompromisingly !7 Checking into Yunomori Onsen & Sea in the capable hands of one of Phuket’s crewed yacht charters. See page 14.

best live music on a crawl of Rattanakosin’s jazz bars. See page 10.

authentic taste of modern Thai dining.

See page 20.

Spa for a Japanese-style massage followed by a soak in a hot spring-water bath. See page 30.

8 Eating our way through all the !3 Knocking back the chrysanthe3 Going glamping in the fields of most delicious street food in mum-infused cocktails of Hong Kong- !8 Shopping for beautiful, Thai-made Siam Country Club for Wonderfruit, Thailand’s biggest music festival.

See page 3.

Chinatown, from steaming bowls of noodles to sinfully sweet sesame dumplings. See page 27.

referencing drinking den Dim Dim. See page 24.

handicrafts at the OTOP Heritage boutique. See page 9.

!4 Unearthing the heritage of Thai silk !9 Taking in the contemporary art 4 Exploring the Bangkok riverside’s 9 Crossing over to the Chao Phraya craftsmanship at the Jim Thompson exhibitions of local and visiting artists House, the stunning former residence of an American silk merchant. See page 30.

at Bangkok Art & Culture Centre. See page 31.

burgeoning contemporary art culture during Galleries’ Night. See page 3.

River’s lesser-visited West bank to visit the chic, waterside kitchen of The Never Ending Summer. See page 26.

5 Shopping for Thai-style canvas

@0 Sweating out some calories at the !0 Pulling up a rattan chair at The !5 Breakfasting in style with a deli- newly opened Ryde spinning studio.

hi-tops decked out in funky Isaan culture prints at Horselegmarking.

See page 28.

Bamboo Bar, Bangkok’s oldest jazz bar, for the smoky sounds of its visiting singers. See page 7.

cious plate of eggs Benedict at the en vogue Rocket Coffeebar. See page 10.

See page 29.

@1 Tucking into a feast of Thai seafood at Kodang Talay riverside restaurant. See page 26.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok Amara Bangkok AETAS Bangkok All season Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Amari Watergate Hotel Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Hotel Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Hotel Bangkok Centara Hotel & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Hotel Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Hotel Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel Bangkok Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Emporium Suites Bangkok Four Points by Sheraton Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel & Spa (former Four Seasons) Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Holiday Inn Silom Hotel Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel InterContinental Bangkok Hotel JW Marriott Bangkok Klapsons the River Residences Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua Hotel Bangkok Luxx Hotel Majestic Grande hotel Mandarin Oriental Hotel Mandarin Hotel Managed by Centre Point Mercure & ibis Bangkok Siam

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The Sukhothai Bangkok Hotel

Millennium Hilton Hotel

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ViVa Garden

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W Bangkok Hotel

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Hotels in other province

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Shopping Mall Central World

Oaks Bangkok Sathorn Thailand

Tamarind Village at Chiang Mai

Peninsular Plaza

Park Plaza Sukhumvit Bangkok

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The Emporium Department Store

Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Sheraton Krabi

The River City Shopping Complex

Peninsula Bangkok Hotel

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Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

Others

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Devarana Spa

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Chandara Resort

Elemis Spa at St. Regis

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Section)

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TAT at Counter Imformation

Sofitel So

Hard Rock Hotel

Chao Phraya Express Boat

Springfield Group Resort, Golf & Spa

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Yodpiman River Walk

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Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai

Swissotel Nai Lert Park Hotel

Centara Khum Phaya Resort & Spa, Centara

The Berkeley Hotel

Boutique Collection

The Continent Hotel Bangkok

Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai

The Davis Bangkok Hotel

Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa

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Ayara Hilltops Boutique Resort & Spa

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Angsana Laguna Phuket

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