Where® Thailand September-October 2017

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SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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New in Phuket Exploring Bangkok’s Old Town

BAR HOPPING How to spend the perfect night out in Bangkok

LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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CONTENTS where

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l THAILAND l SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017

The Guide

AFTER DARK

BANGKOK

Experience the perfect night out in the city with these neighborhood bar-hopping guides.

20 NIGHTLIFE Check out the best live music venues in Bangkok, from blues to Thai country grooves.

22 DINING Bangkok's star kitchens are using local cooking techniques and ingredients to create a whole new genre of fine dining.

24 SHOPS+SERVICES Pick up the perfect Thai gifts for friends back home at these to-die-for local boutiques.

25 HEALTH+WELLNESS On the outskirts of Bangkok lie some of the best golf courses and country clubs in the country.

AROUND THAILAND 12 NEW IN PHUKET

26 ATTRACTIONS

The Andaman island is alive with new restaurants, bars and beautiful hotels.

It's showtime every night at these star performances, from Thai boxing to kitsch cabaret.

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27 ART This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

EXPLORING

28 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

17 OLD TOWN Rattanakosin—otherwise known as the Old Town—is home to the city's most stunning temples, on top of amazing street food and creative cocktail dens complete with river views.

ALSO INSIDE 4

HOT DATES

30 21 THINGS WE LOVE Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

17 Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Junior Writers Neon Boonyadhammakul, Rujiyatorn Choksiriwan, Kasidit Srivilai, Kankanok Wichiantanon Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

Intern Kawee Jarach

Art Director Vatanya Bongkotkarn

Cover Canvas

Designers Peeraya Sirathanisa, Anunya Chobnitas Content Coordinator Nontaya Kumyat Staff Writers Choltanutkun Tun-artiruj, Theerada Moonsiri, Wanvida Jiralertpaiboon

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For Contacts: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

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@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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Sep 15

HOT SMOKE America’s hit DJs/music producers The Chainsmokers have confirmed they’ll be playing in Bangkok at Impact Arena, as part of their Memories Asia Tour 2017. The duo gained international acclaim following the release of their first EP in 2015, which featured the smash “Roses.” They followed it up with another huge hit in 2016, “Closer.”

Prices start at B2,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

Impact Arena, 47/569-576 Popular 3 Rd., 02-833-4455

SEP 22

EVERY WEEKEND

TILL OCT 31

OCT 20-28

English folk singer-songwriter Lucy Rose, who made a name for herself through collaborations with indie rock bands Bombay Bicycle Club and Manic Street Preachers, returns to Bangkok as part of her Work It Out tour. She’ll be back this time with a brand new album, Something’s Changing. The concert takes place at Heaven Bangkok at Zen. Tickets are B750. For more information, visit www.ticketmelon.com

Every weekend throughout Sep and Oct, Bangkok Farmers’ Market takes over chilled out locations across the city, like Ekkamai’s Gateway mall (Sep 9-10), Thonglor Soi 8 (Sep 16-17) and Habito mall (Oct 7-8). Browse through stalls filled with local produce ranging from fresh fruits and vegetables to organic beauty products. When it gets too hot, you can cool down with a glass of Thai ice tea or coffee in one of the many cafes nearby. Free entry.

The latest exhibition to open its doors at Jim Thompson Art Center, the gallery adjoining the beautiful residential museum, is Soil and Stones, Souls and Songs. The collaborative project features work from artists who look at contemporary tensions between Asian nations, in media including painting, sculpture, archive images, murals and video. Free admission.

For one week of October each year, Thailand’s Chinese community pays homage to the Nine Emperor Gods with a strict vegetarian diet. In Bangkok, join the crowds on Yaowarat Road for the Vegetarian Festival, where the streets will be lined in red and yellow flags, and the city’s top street-food stalls will be offering delectable meat-free treats.

ENGLISH ROSE

CentralWorld, Rajadamri Rd., 02-1009999. BTS Chid Lom

FARM FRESH

Gateway Ekamai, 982/22 Sukhumvit Rd. BTS Ekkamai. www.bkkfm.org

EARTH SONG

GO VEG

Yaowarat Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong

Jim Thompson House, Kasemsan Soi 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-612-6741. Open daily 9am-8pm. www.jimthompsonartcenter.org

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NIGHTLIFE

AFTER DARK

A guide to Bangkok’s best party neighborhoods.

JUST A DRINK (MAYBE)

CANVAS

THONGLOR The once-residential Thonglor is now firmly established as the no. 1 party spot in the city.

Nightlife here comes with an upscale local flavor. Born-and-bred Bangkokians come to sip on cocktails and neck back craft brews before heading into the street’s various nightclubs that attract top international DJs.

JUST A DRINK (MAYBE) Why go: Thonglor's new gin bar is a hidden delight. Nestled down a small soi, this narrow shop-house draws you in with its enormous gin collection all lit up behind the bar. Here, Taiwanese PR officer-turnedbar owner Herman Wu splits his drinks into original cocktails and next-level ginand-tonic creations for a crowd of casually dressed neighborhood residents and young professionals loosening their ties after work.

Drink this: The potent AO Show masks its strength under chamomile-infused Brooker's Gin, Carpano Bianco (sweet white vermouth made from wine using trebbiano, cortese and chardonnay grapes), Creme de Cacao Blanc and simple syrup, shaken with lemon juice.

44/3 Thonglor Soi 1, 02-023-7285. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-1am

BEAM

on which are written the drink of the day.

CANVAS Why go: Downstairs sits one of Bangkok’s most exciting kitchens, where Texas-hailing chef Riley Sanders (whose resume features a stint at Chicago's now-closed L20) presents creative locavore flavors, while up above you’ll find a bar from some of the finest cocktail names in the city. Head bartender Naphat “Yod” Natchachon delivers a menu that complements the kitchen’s focus on local produce, amid an upscale ambience that channels old-school bistros.

Drink this: Sooth Your Soul (B450) makes use of a rare Chiang Mai leaf called bai nium.

Here they infuse the leaves with coffee beans in cognac, mix that with sweet vermouth then serve it with star anise smoke.

113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-614-1158.

Open Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-12:30pm

BACKSTAGE Why go: This Broadway-burlesque space on the lobby floor of the theater-themed Playhaus boutique hotel is run by six of Bangkok’s leading bartenders. Behind a red velvet curtain, you’ll find five sets of Louis XIV-style sofas facing a counter bar and a liquor shelf surrounded by backstage mirrors

Drink this: Earthbeet is a woody drink with a beetroot-infused tequila base mixed with sweet vermouth, Campari, Cynar (artichoke liqueur) and mezcal, garnished with a slice of beetroot and torched liquorice.

L/F, Playhaus Thonglor, 205/22-23 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-5747. Open daily 6pm-1am

BLACK Why go: The guy behind Thonglor’s latest jazz lounge is Idris Dawud, a trumpet player from New York who has been living in Thailand for the past 15 years. He’s also the son of Talib Dawud, a trumpeter who played with Art Blakey and Thelonious Monk in the legendary The Jazz Messengers, while his step-mom is jazz singer Dakota Staton, best known for her 1957 hit “The Late, Late Show.”

Drink this: Bangkokians usually partake in their live jazz sessions with a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label at hand. Drink it on ice or with soda water.

Thonglor Soi 25, 02-036-6071. Open Tue-Sun 7pm2am

BEAM Why go: Thonglor's showpiece nightclub is truly world class, featuring Asia’s first "body

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SKY ON 20

Q&A

kinetic" dance floor that shakes vibrations into dancers' feet. The style is minimal, raw, casual and loud. The lounge area, dubbed the Dalmatian Room, promises easy-going electronic beats and future hip-hop (think Flume, Disclosure, Jamie XX, James Blake), while the main room upstairs brings quality, energetic, deep house and techno tracks from live DJs. Drink this: Whatever’s your favorite tipple for a night of late-night partying.

1/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglo), 02392-7750. Open Wed-Sat 9pm-2am

SUKHUMVIT From the all-night party spots of Sukhumvit Soi 11 to the sky bars and cocktail spots of Phrom Phong, the stretch of Sukhumvit Road from sois 1-39 is expat party central.

Whether you’re looking for an after-dinner tipple or to party till 2am, you’re bound to find a place that suits.

SKY ON 20 Why go: Sukhumvit's latest rooftop bar sits pretty on the 26th floor of the new Novotel hotel, offering laidback garden vibes and views of both Sirikit Lake and Benjasiri Park. The fruity, though not-too-sweet, cocktails come courtesy of Portuguese bar manager Joao Dos

HAIR OF THE DOG

HAVANA SOCIAL

Santos, who previously worked as head bartender at the Eastern Mangroves Hotel and Spa by Anantara in Abu Dhabi.

Drink this: The apple and vanilla margarita offers a sweet refresher with a sharp kick of lemon juice to emphasize those margarita roots.

19/9 Sukhumvit Soi 20, 02-009-4999. Open daily 5pm-1am

Q&A Why go: Hidden inside a little alley, this speakeasy-style bar comes courtesy of the local cocktail specialists behind many of the best drink menus in town. It succeeds where many others fail to conjure the feeling of a secret drinking society, with the narrow space replicating a classic ‘20s railway carriage.

Drink this: Just tell the bartender your favorite classic—from a Pegu Club to a Boulevardier—or put your faith in the small, often-changing list of drinks arranged by flavor profile: sweet, bitter, savory, spicy and umami.

235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-1445. Open MonSat 7am-2pm. MRT Petchaburi

HAIR OF THE DOG Why go: This little beer bar has established itself as one of the top names for craft brews

in the city. Beer aficionados drop by both for the rare bottles and casks, as well as the haunting atmosphere—with its giant, surgery-style lights and floor-to-ceiling raw concrete.

Drink this: Ask the staff about the Tap of the Month (at the time of writing, Dutch brewery Brouwerij de Molen’s Vuur & Vlam IPA), or go with one of the regular names from the fridge like Heretic’s Evil Twin or Shallow Grave Porter.

593/27 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-258-1461. Open daily 5pm-midnight

HAVANA SOCIAL Why go: Going for a ‘40s-50s Havana highlife vibe, this hidden bar specializing in rum is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live Afro-Cuban music. Find the telephone booth labeled “Telefono” for the night’s unique access code. Once inside you’ll find a late-night party crowd.

Drink this: The Cuba Libre (Bacardi black, angostura bitters, cola and kaffir lime, B260) is served with chunky Coca-Cola ice cubes, while Between Two Sheets (Bacardi Black, Hennessy VS, Grand Marnier, lime, pomegranate grenadine, B300) comes in two

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NIGHTLIFE

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VESPER

VOGUE LOUNGE

mismatched cocktail glasses, one sweet and one sour, and requires you to rather daintily sip at both for the full effect.

gin, Carpano Bianco Vermouth, and Luxardo Italian herbal bitters.

Sukhumvit Soi 11, 061-450-3750. Open daily 6pm2am. www.fb.com/havanasocialbkk

10/15 Convent Rd., 02-235-2777. Open Mon-Fri 12– 2:30pm, 6pm–1am, Sat 6pm-1am, Sun 6pm-midnight.

BTS Sala Daeng

SILOM-SATHORN

VOGUE LOUNGE

In Bangkok’s central business district, corporate skyscrapers rub shoulders with creative cocktail lounges. Straight off the skytrain at BTS Sala Daeng you’ll find the roudy old Patpong red light district, but head over to nearby Sathorn and you’ll discover one of the most upscale party scenes in the city.

Why go: The glam rooftop bar at MahaNakhon does one of the best happy hour deals in town, when they offer buy-one-getone-free on all standard drinks right through till 9pm every day. The space doesn’t just have drink deals and chic, ‘20s-meets-modern decor going for it, either. The kitchen does a super-tasty line of fancy burgers— get the teriyaki burger with wasabi mayo.

VESPER Why go: Vesper’s as much a high-end tapas bar as it is a cocktail lounge, making it just perfect for those pre-night-out stomach liners. The marble bar is helmed by an inhouse team which includes some of the city’s most in-demand mixologists.

Drink this: Along with its huge, tome-like menu called the Art Book, in which each cocktail takes it inspiration from a different iconic painting, the bar also just launched a list of “modern classics”—drinks designed after the 1980s. Try the White Negroni, invented in Bordeaux in 2001, which includes

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Drink this: The sharing decanters of gin and tonic made with real lemon, lime and thyme make the perfect sundowner aperitif, while classics like the old fashioned and Manhattan are crafted to perfection.

6/F, MahaNakhon Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd., 02-001-0697. Open daily 5pm-Midnight.

BTS Chong Nonsi

BUNKER Why go: Part restaurant, part bar, Bunker sits right in the midst of Sathorn’s upscale party district. The brutalist concrete build-

BUNKER

ing’s many angles and alcoves make for intimate tete-a-tetes over serious newwave cocktails, small-batch wines or craft beers—just the spot to mingle with Bangkok’s beau-monde before heading to the harder partying spots nearby.

Drink this: The R&R, a frothy, well-shaken mix of gin, rosella, raisin and citrus juice, is exactly the kind of refreshing, easy drinker that a night on Bunker’s alfresco terrace calls for.

118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 02-234-7749. Open Sun-Wed 5:30pm-1am, Thu-Sat 5:30pm-2am

CE LA VI Why go: Occupying the top two floors of a modern skycraper, this club turns out one of Bankgok's most luxurious nightlife experiences. Bangkok-based big-name DJs like the Bangkok Invaders and Kimball Collins rule the stage, with monthly parties from international guest DJs. Themes for the night change regularly.

Drink this: Ce La Vi’s sky-high, 39th floor location and oh-so-chic clientele call for dry martinis—that or bottles of bubbly.

39/F, Sathorn Square, 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-1082000. Open Tue-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 9pm-2am.

BTS Chong Nonsi

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ADVERTORIAL

Veganerie Soul

S

et on Siam Paragon’s G floor, The Gourmet Garden offers more than 8,000 sq meters of tranquility and dining pleasures. Designed under the concept “Pandorascape,” it creates a natural setting complete with a waterfall curtain and unique art installations.

At The Gourmet Garden, fine-dining restaurants gather together to provide choices for customers of every age and lifestyle, no matter what the time of day. Whether it’s a breakfast date, business lunch, special dinner or party with your friends, you’re bound to find a restaurant that’s perfect.

Crab & Claw Clinton St. Baking Company & Restaurant

Harrods

For those who love sweets, take a trip to the island of desserts and pastries from well-known Bangkok shops like Gokoku, Milch, Tarr Tarr, Bake a Wish, Shio Company, Brix Dessert Bar, Veganerie Soul and Whittard of Chelsea.

In addition, you’ll find big international restaurants like Clinton St. Baking Company & Restaurant, Mugendai Steakhouse, Chilli Thai Restaurant, Wang Jia Sha, IHOP, Another Hound Café and Townhouse.

Experience the deliciousness of world-class gastronomy at The Gourmet Garden, Siam Paragon’s G floor.

Mugendai Steakhouse

Tarr Tarr

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NIGHTLIFE

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Chiang Mai and the local indie favorite, Beerlao, the bar also pours Vedette on tap.

945 Charoenkrung Rd., 088-511-4011. Open TueThur-Sun 7pm-12:15am, Fri-Sat 7pm-1am

FOOJOHN Why go: Step inside this old shop-house and you're transported to a retro Hong Kong diner like something out of In the Mood for Love— think warm lighting, carefully positioned mirrors and vintage mosaic tiles. Downstairs you'll find a hip bistro serving cold cuts and crepes alongside wine.

Drink this: Downstairs is all about pocketfriendly French table wine, while upstairs sits a hush-toned cocktail bar, where French spirits are spotlighted in classic cocktails based on The Savoy Cocktail Book (first published back in 1930).

CE LA VI

CHINATOWN-CHAROEN KRUNG Chinatown used to be only about eating at time-worn restaurants and walking through moody, crumbling streets where traditional Sino-Thai home life spills into public sight.

Now though, you’ll also discover a cluster of the coolest new cocktail bars and live music spots in town, attracting a young, arty crowd to the area.

BA HAO TEP BAR

Why go: Neon red Chinese letters and a donothing approach to shop-house restoration give this bar the requisite look of old Hong Kong cool, complete with open frontage that spills onto the Yoawarat streets. Don't miss owner Tikhamporn Chuenkittivoravat's duck wontons—she trained at the Oriental as a chef.

Drink this: Opium sees a classic negroni spiked with ginseng and herbal liquor, while Five Rivers infuses the flavors of Chinese five spice into rum, Drambuie and Fernet Blanca.

8 Soi Nana 064-635-1989. Open 6.30pm-midnight. MRT Hua Lamphong

Tue-Sun

SOULBAR Why go: This straightforward but stylish bar does just what you’d hope from a name like SoulBar. Live soul and funk bands fill the tiny front room every Wed-Sat starting from 9:30pm, often continuing the party after the shutters come down.

TEENS OF THAILAND

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831 Charoenkrung Soi 31, 095-060-6286. Open WedSun 6pm-midnight

TEENS OF THAILAND Why go: The highlight of this moody bar hidden behind a reclaimed Indian door is its vast collection of gin, from the must-try Xoriguer Mahon Gin to the locally distilled Iron Balls and house-infused selections like the Thaitea GT. The decor mixes old shop-house charm with racy photographs and old-school Thai movie artwork.

Drink this: The menu changes all the time, with roughly five things to choose from that often play with local botanicals. You can also tell the barman what kind of cocktail you like and let him make something new for you.

76 Soi Nana, 096-846-0506. Open Mon-Thu, Sun 7pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 7pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

TEP BAR Why go: Located in the crumbling streets of the up-and-coming Charoenkrung area, this restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, emphasized with mood lighting and simple wooden tables. Come nightfall, enjoy your drinks while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

Drink this: Here, you'll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices.

There's also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen specializing in Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai).

69-71 Soi Rammaitri, 098-467-2944. Open MonThu, Sun 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

Drink this: On top of a line of craft beer from

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AROUND THAILAND

ANDAMAN EXPOSURE The hottest new openings on Phuket.

OSHA

PRU

EAT NAMA AT AMAN With its name meaning “raw” in Japanese, the restaurant serves an extensive list of sushi and sashimi, alongside grilled dishes.

All the food is prepared by Japan-native chef Keiji Matoba, who has worked at five-star hotels like The Chedi Andermatt in the Swiss Alps. One of its star dishes is the Kobe gyu, a Kobe wagyu steak grilled over charcoal at your table and served with moshio mineral salt, a seaweed-infused salt that has been produced by the same method for nearly 2,500 years.

Pansea Beach, Phuket, 097-632-4333. Open seasonally for lunch and dinner (Nov 1-May 15). www. aman.com/resorts/amanpuri/nama-restaurant

TORRY’S ICE CREAM Founded by art school graduate and islandnative Torry Wongwattanakit, the store sits in a gorgeous pink Sino-Portuguese building, where it’s pulling in both locals and tourists for its scoops inspired by Phuket’s iconic desserts like clear jelly served with red beans and ice cream, crispy coconut crepe and glutinous sticky rice topped with coconut milk.

There are some 50 flavors in total, as well as

booze-spiked options like Irish coffee (whisky) and rum raisin (dark rum).

Rommanee Soi 16, Thalang Rd., Phuket Old Town, 076-510-888. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9.30pm. www. torrysicecream.com

ESENZI The ultra-luxurious design hotel Iniala Beach House has partnered with Tim Butler of Bangkok’s Eat Me (No.23 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016, No.7 in BK’s Top Tables 2016) to open this new seafood venture. The first Butler restaurant outside of Bangkok plucks flavors from all around the world. A5 marbled wagyu beef from Shiga prefecture comes served with swordfish belly in red curry, while the Dutch Harbor king crab salad features heirloom tomatoes, basil sorbet and bloody Mary.

Baan Natai, 40/14, Khokkloi Rd., Phangnga, 076451-456. Open Mon-Sat 6-11pm. www.esenzirestaurant.com

PRU Pru takes its name from Pru Jumpa, the area where the resort’s own organic farm is located. Here, executive chef Jim Ophorst (who recently won the national round of

ESENZI

San Pellegrino’s Young Chefs award) works with local producers like the neighboring goat farm and even goes foraging himself to create the likes of the eggplant selection dish, made of four kinds of eggplants cooked in five different ways—creamed, mashed, roasted, crisped and puff—served with a sauce of five types of basil and house-made bottarga (cured fish roe).

Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Phuket, 076310-100. Open Mon-Sat 6pm–10:30pm. prurestaurant.com

OSHA Bangkok’s Osha restaurant (which originated in San Francisco) has taken hold of the dining room in Phuket Town’s heritage Memory at On On Hotel to offer some creative high-end Thai dining. Amid minty and magenta decor, Osha Thai serves a list of its star dishes from Bangkok, like dancing king prawns in fish sauce and tom yum kung , but you’ll also find traditional Phuket dishes like moo hong (braised pork belly) and nam prik goong sieb (shrimp paste with dried shrimp).

19 Phang-Nga Rd., Talad Yai, Phuket, 076-634-420, Open daily 7am-11pm. www.fb.com/oshathaiatonon

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MALI Of traditional Phuket dishes, the menu charts all the Southern hits—crab meat curry with rice noodle, moo hong (braised pork belly), nam prik goong siab (chili shrimp paste with crispy dried shrimp) and kua kling (stir-fried spicy pork/beef)— while also experimenting with its own dishes like chicken curry spring rolls and pla long nam (a hot pot of deep-fried seabass or garupa with coconut curry).

OSHA

91/6 Chaofah Tawantok Rd., Phuket, 090-3246351. Open daily 11am-10pm. www.fb.com/maliphuket324

PLAY CHALONG BAY RUM BAR

ESENZI

Phuket’s artisanal rum distillery now has its own bar and also offers cocktail workshops. Stop by for a sip of its classic cocktails, bite-sized Mediterranean tapas and a fittingly tropical vibe. Finish off with a scoop of the delicious Chalong Bay rum and raisin ice-cream. Launched back in 2012, Chalong Bay Rum is produced from pure Thai sugarcane juice (not molasses, like most distilleries), using traditional French distillation methods.

Chalong Bay Distillery, 14/2 Moo 2 Soi Palai 2, Phuket, 093-575-1119 or 082-800-4701. Open MonSat 11am-10pm. www.chalongbay.com

CAFE DEL MAR

fers local dishes, while Pinana cafe serves scones, brownies and tea.

Thepkasattri Rd., Muang Thalang, Phuket, 076-313556. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.phuketperanakanmuseum.com

JARA SPA Jara’s six villa-like spa rooms offer four different signature mixed oils and what they dub a “Thai thermal massage,” which features a clay pot filled with heated Himalayan salt and incorporates elements of meditation. The five-hour Jara Local treatment includes a Thai herbal scrub and wrap, Thai thermal massage, Thai stretching and walking meditation by Buddhist monks. We recommend requesting a seaview spa room.

paddle boarding.

99 Muen-Ngoen Rd., Tri-Trang Beach, Patong, 076335-300. goo.gl/6WGBvu

MAI HOUSE Patong’s newest boutique hotel looks to Phuket Town’s Sino-Portuguese culture to create somewhere elegant and different. Mai House Patong Hill is an alluring blend of turquoise walls, opium den-style daybeds and dangling steel lanterns. The Grand Deluxe Rooms feature bathtubs in the bedroom, or go one step further for the Grand Deluxe Jacuzzi room, which has its own outdoor Jacuzzi hidden behind a veil of tropical foliage overlooking Patong Beach.

5/5 Phrabarami Rd., Patong, Kathu, Phuket, 076637-770. maihouse.com/patonghill

60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Phuket, 076-310100. Open daily 10am-9pm. trisara.com/en/jara-spa

STAY MARRIOTT MERLIN BEACH The resort is huge—414 rooms huge—­­­­­­­­­and with the beaches around Phuket becoming increasingly busy, here you’ve got your own private beach that’s only accessible to hotel guests. Newbies to scuba-diving can even take a three-hour introductory course without having to leave the resort. They also offer three massive swimming pools, a modest spa, muay Thai, kayaking and

MAI HOUSE

A pool sits surrounded by fancy sunbeds and a bar, while the lounge extends right to the sands at Thailand’s iteration of Ibiza’s legendary beach club. Jazz and tropical house tunes set the scene during the day, with underground techno taking over later on. Drinks-wise, there’s a huge list of spirits, wines and classic cocktails for you to choose from.

Kammala, Kathu, Phuket, 063-081- 2488. Open daily 11am-2am. cafedelmarphuket.com

CAFE DEL MAR

DO PERANAKAN SHOPHOUSE MUSEUM Dedicated to Baba-Nyonya heritage, Peranakan Phuket Museum replicates the look of Phuket Town’s Sino-Portuguese shophouses in a series of kitsch but fun exhibits. There’s even a photo studio where you can dress up in a Baba-Nyonya costume and have your picture taken against a faux crumbly wall. The on-site Yaya Kitchen of-

CHALONG BAY RUM BAR

MARRIOT MERLIN BEACH

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AROUND THAILAND

WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM

AVISTA HIDEAWAY The southern end of Patong Beach is currently one of the hottest places to stay on the island. This resort boasts clean lines with a luxurious tropical edge, its 150 guestrooms coming with rich local woods and natural stones. Three saltwater swimming pools are split over different levels, while food and drink ranges from Sizzle steakhouse and Vista all-day dining to the Rendez-Vue Rooftop cocktail and tapas bar.

39/9 Muen Ngern Rd., Patong, Kathu, Phuket, 076681-681. www.avista-hideaway-phuket-patong.com

AKYRA BEACH CLUB PHUKET

THE SIS KATA

Just a 20-minute drive from Phuket International Airport, the Andaman-facing hotel goes with a deep blue theme for its 42 rooms and 17 villas, the highlight of which is the 125-sq-meter beachfront two-bedroom villa. The decor features Sino-Portuguese flourishes on everything from the floor tiles to the cushions, matched with dark wooden furniture.

32/7 Moo 5, Kokkloi, Takua Thung, Phang Nga, 076592-500. www.theakyra.com/phuket

2ROOMS BOUTIQUE HOUSE AVISTA HIDEAWAY

2ROOMS BOUTIQUE HOUSE

THE SIS KATA AKIRA BEACH CLUB PHUKET

This swanky stay comes at a refreshingly low price point. The name means “Stay In Style” and the resort’s 124 guest rooms and two suites come in a nautical white and blue color scheme with contemporary chevron patterns throughout. You’ll find six restaurants and bars on-site that serve up local dishes with international twists, and take advantage of the Kata sunset over the Andaman Sea. 255 Kok Tanode Rd., Karon, Phuket, 076-609-555. www.thesiskata.com

MAITON PRIVATE ISLAND

Designed and owned by Phuket’s Dhamarchitects, the two rooms are situated on the second floor of a 100-year-old twin shop-house on Soi Rommanee that was formerly an old-school coffee shop.

These days, it stands out not only for its bright pink facade, but also its relatively shallow nature compared to other shophouses in the area. The large, suite-like rooms consist of dark blue walls, a king bed and breezy balcony. Downstairs you’ll find popular dessert cafe Torry’s Ice Cream (see page 10).

Soi Rommanee, Thalang Rd., Phuket, 076-354-335. www.fb.com/2roomsboutiquehouse

MAITON PRIVATE ISLAND You can now stay on the Andaman Sea’s largest private island, Koh Mai Ton, which sits about 9km from Phuket. Maiton Private Island operates more like a family-run Airbnb than a resort. Activities on the island include outdoor massages with a view, or a spot of diving at the underwater reef, kayaking, snorkeling, and taking a boat around the island for a dolphin-sighting trip.

100 Moo 7, Wichi, Muang, Phuket, 085-835-3456. www.maitonprivateisland.com

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OLD TOWN The Rattanakosin area, commonly called the Old Town, is tucked in a bend in the Chao Phraya River and encompasses some of the city’s most revered cultural landmarks. But beyond the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, there are also some excellent restaurants and beautiful riverside bars.

THE DECK

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 17 OLD TOWN

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN Y SPOTLIGHT

Babble & Rum

NEW

SUPANNIGA X ROOTS

One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. This latest riverside branch (one of three in the city) is perhaps its most stunning yet, perched on the deck of a charmingly low-scale boutique resort. Be sure to order the flavorful standbys like nam prik khai pu (crabmeat with chili paste) and moo cha muang (pork with guttiferae tree leaves). Or simply drop by for a coffee—they’re partnered with trending local roaster, Roots.

The main restaurant (ground floor) and bar (second floor) of this welcoming riverside hotel next to Phra Athit Pier are decorated like a contemporary French cafe, finished in dark woods, mirrors and leather-clad couches. An outdoor terrace and a laidback upstairs area make it the perfect spot for a chilled night out. The menu features Thai and interational comfort food and plenty of cocktails.

Try the Jelly Riva (vodka, melon syrup, lime juice on top of jelly).

!5 1/F, Riva Surya, 23 Phra Athit Rd., 02633-5000. Open daily 6:30am-10:30pm

1 River Arun, 392/25-26 Maharaj Rd., 02-714-7608. Open daily 11:30am-10:30pm

MORNING Start your walking tour from Prachan Pier (Tha Prachan in Thai), nearby you’ll find the historic 2 National Museum (4 Na Phra Tha Rd., 02-224-1333), home to some of the most impressive art and antiques in the country. In addition to historic pieces from the Dvaravati Srivijaya to Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods, the museum features regional art like Indian Gandhara, Chinese weapons, ancient ceramics and musical instruments. At the other end of Sanam Luang is the most-visited landmark in

NATIONAL MUSEUM

ace is closed for a national holiday.

Ignore them! On the same grounds, you’ll also find the 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles (Na Phra Lan Rd., Phra Borom Maha Ratchawang, 02-

WAT PHRA KAEW

Thailand, 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew (open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.

Entry B350). Construction on the royal residence of the first king of the current Chakri Dynasty began in 1762, and the complex is split into three zones: the Outer Court, where you’ll find Wat Phra Kaew and the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred Buddha image; the Middle Court, which contains the Dusit Maha Prasat and Chakri Maha Prasat buildings; and the Inner Court, former residence of the royal consorts. Be sure to get there early before the day is too hot. Beware, touts will tell you the pal-

AFTERNOON Behind the Grand Palace, on the bank of the Chao Phraya River, is the fouryear-old 5 Nagaraphirom Park. What was once a row of shop-houses and several other old buildings is now a breathable green space with views of the Grand Palace. Relax among trees and lotus ponds while enjoying a great view of the Temple of Dawn before you continue on your walk. Next, pay your respects to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha at 6 Wat Pho (open daily 8am-5pm), whose three-meter-tall

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

255-9430), which tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand.

Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.

WAT PHO

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EXPLORING

OLD TOWN feet are inlaid with mother of pearl displaying 108 Buddhist symbols. In a beautiful colonial-style building nearby, 7 Museum Siam (4 Sanam Chai Rd., 02225-2777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm) is one of Bangkok’s best museums, portraying the history of Thai communities through multimedia installations and interactive exhibitions. The venue also hosts an interesting lineup of rotating exhibitions.

PHRA ATHIT HOT SPOTS Khaosan Road is world famous among backpackers. But just around the corner, Phra Athit Road is where the local cool kids go to knock back coffee, craft beers and cocktails. Here are our favorite spots.

EVENING

SUPANNIGA X ROOTS

After exploring Thailand’s heritage, take a break at 1 Supanniga x Roots (see Highlight) and enjoy Thai food with great views of the 8 Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). This stylish riverside venue boasts a small number of guestrooms but half of the building is dedicated to wining and dining. There’s

!3Bottle Rocket

!4 Latte Bua

!2 Rarb

This craft beer newbie focuses on Asian brews, mainly from Thailand, Japan and Korea. There are always 4-6 taps on offer, with a beer tasting set that allows you to sample the whole bunch. Don’t miss the photogenic Tea Beer that comes with an ice tea popsicle. Head there early to take advantage of the 2-for-1 happy hour from 5-8pm daily.

One of the neighborhood’s more charming recent openings highlights serious tea and coffee. The signature Latte Bua Milk gets a local kick from house-infused lotus syrup, while the owner imports the 1872 Chopper Tea from Singapore. A selection of cakes and brownies are on rotation at the counter.

76/1 Phra Athit Rd., 086-085-5550. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

Phra Athit Rd., 082-599-0959. Open daily Tue-Sun 10am-8pm

Amid sprayed zinc sheets and bare concrete, this bar dishes out customized cocktails and Isaan-inspired food.

The single-page handwritten menu lists roughly 10 items that highlight secondary cuts of meat, with dishes like larb (a minty minced-meat salad from Northeast Thailand), deep-fried beef skirt and stewed pig cartilage with rotating vegetables. Meanwhile, mixologist Karn Liangsrisuk rolls out a rotating list of drinks with local touches.

49 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight

!2

Pra Athit Pier .

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1 Supanniga x Roots 2 National Museum 3 Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew 4 Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles 5 Nagaraphirom Park 6 Wat Pho 7 Museum Siam Charoen Krung Rd. 8 Wat Arun 9 The Deck !0 Pak Klong Talad Pahu rat R d. !1 Khao San Road !2 Rarb !3 Bottle Rocket !4 Latte Bua !5 Babble and Rum

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Maharaj Pier

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also a rooftop bar—the perfect place for sipping cocktails. If you’re in the mood for more drinks, head to 9 The Deck (Arun Residence, 36-38 Maharaj Rd. 02-221-9158), a charming outdoor venue just a short walk from Sala Rattanakosin. Set in a fiveroom boutique hotel, The Deck offers a delightful atmosphere to enjoy another drink or two, and also has a sophisticated Thai food menu. Finish your Old Town tour with a night visit to !0 Pak Klong Talad (open 24 hours), Bangkok’s largest flower market. Flowers from not only Thailand but around the world arrive here each day to be distributed to hotels, restaurants and small retailers. If you’ve still got some energy left, go mingle with backpackers from all over the world on the notorious !1 Khao San Road, or head to the local drinking street of choice, Phra Athit, which is just around the corner (see box, top right).

Our top address there is !2 Rarb (49 Phra Athit Rd., 081-406-3773), which specializes in Northeastern bar snacks and cocktails.

Rd

adam

TEMPLE OF DAWN Prachan Pier

San

!0

GETTING THERE

It’s not easy to get to the Old Town as there is no the sky train or MRT coverage, and a car journey can take up to an hour due to heavy traffic.

The most convenient route is perhaps to take the sky train to BTS Saphan Taksin and catch a boat from Sathorn Pier to Pra Athit Pier.

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ThewhereGuide SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2017 | BANGKOK

WAREHOUSE 30 After a year of anticipation, Charoenkrung’s ambitious art and design complex is finally open.

Starchitect Duangrit Bunnag has transformed a 4,000-sq-meter space of abandoned World War II-era warehouses into a web of stores, restaurants, art spaces and other creative endeavors.

You’ll find everyday-wear from Duangrit’s brand Lonely Two-Legged Creature alongside flowers from Wallflower and an indoor market zone showcasing everything from chairs to bags and accessories from local designers, as well as A Coffee Roaster cafe.

Charoenkrung Soi 30. Open daily 11am-8:30pm

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 20 NIGHTLIFE 22 DINING

24 SHOP 25 HEALTH & WELLNESS

26 ATTRACTIONS 27 ART

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LOCKER ROOM

Hidden away behind a wall of grungy looking lockers, this speakeasy showcases some of Asia’s top mixology talents. Ronnaporn “Neung” Kanivichaporn, two-time winner of Diageo’s national World Class cocktail competition, joins forces with Hidetsugo Ueno from Bar High Five in Tokyo, Colin Chia from Singapore’s Nutmeg & Clove and Nick Wu (third in the World Class Cocktail Competition 2016). Find the secret entrance, pull up a counter seat by the bar staff, and try one of their Bloodless Marias, a clear martini-like drink that uses mezcal and vermouth sous-vide with tomato. Powerful stuff.

JIA Thonglor 10, 225/15 Thonglor Soi 10, 092-8953689. Open daily 7pm-2am

Hot Spots

1

BEST LIVE MUSIC BARS

BAMBOO BAR

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The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions.

It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand piano and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar.

1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

SOULBAR

2

BAMBOO BAR

3

MAGGIE CHOO’S

This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic.

Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Open Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:30pm-2am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am

SOULBAR

This straightforward but stylish bar does just what you’d hope for. Live soul and funk bands fill the tiny front room every WedSat starting from 9:30pm, often continuing the party after the shutters come down. Behind the bar, you’ll find craft beer from Chiang Mai, as well as Vedette.

945 Charoenkrung Rd., 093-220-0441. Open WedSat 6:30pm-midnight

Taproom Located amid the greenery of Sukhumvit Soi 26, Taproom’s selling point comes in the form of 26 rotating taps pouring premium brews from around the world. That means names like BrewDog, Stone, Coronado, Bear Republic, Hitachino, Flying Dog, EvilTwin, Heretic and Speakeasy. Every time a keg finishes (almost everyday), you can expect something new to be hooked up to the tap. The environment is friendly, weekdays see live acoustic bands take the stage, and come the weekend the place kicks into party atmosphere with DJs. 51 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 087-460-2626. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Phrom Phong

MAGGIE CHOO’S

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NIGHTLIFE

4

6

STUDIO LAM

This latest addition to the super-hip Sukhumvit Soi 51 pairs global beats with quality drinks. The space may look fairly basic, bearing the remnants of an old Japanese restaurant, but the star of the show is a specially designed custom tube sound system which pumps out everything from molam to acid jazz. The bar also boasts the most exciting list of ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) in the city.

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BROWN SUGAR

This place ranks as one of Bangkok’s best jazz bars for a reason. The Phra Sumen institution offers classic Western comfort food and cocktails, and live performances by quality local jazz bands dominated by finalists of The Voice Thailand like Tissue Paper and Attention Please. Performances run from 8:30 pm from Tue-Sun.

469 Phra Sumen Rd., 08-1805-7759. Open daily 5pm-1am

Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-261-6661. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-2am. BTS Thong Lo TEP BAR

5

TEP BAR

This restored shop-house has plenty of raw appeal, and specializes in potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices.

There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen dishing out Thai tapas (and a few classics like pad Thai).

Come nightfall, enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

STUDIO LAM

69-71 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 098-467-2944.

Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

BROWN SUGAR

BEST ROOFTOP BARS

BREWSKI

Brewski The city’s highest beer bar offers 30th-floor views of Sukhumvit. Along with a freeand-easy party atmosphere, Brewski has an international selection of beers with choices ranging from American crafties to Belgian classics.

There’s also a decent selection of ciders (try the Zeffer Crisp Green Apple Cider from New Zealand) and Thai-style bar munchies like sai krok Isaan (Thai-style pork sausages with fresh chilli, ginger and peanuts).

30/F, Radisson Blu Plaza, 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27, 02-3023333. Open daily 5pm-1am

RED SKY

VERTIGO TOO

Octave The bar’s trendy-but-mature vibe is accentuated by striking views from the top floor of the Marriott Sukhumvit hotel.

The first level features a long balcony filled with sculpturelike sofas, above which are a couple of private rooms and a third tier with 360-dedgree views around a circular bar.

DJs play not-too-loud funky house to a crowd of young executives and hotel guests drinking classic cocktails with

slight twists. The food focuses on Asian-themed bar snacks.

45/F, Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02797-0000. Open daily 5pm2am. BTS Thong Lo

Park Society The restaurant serves a menu that eschews fine dining in favor of more casual, shareable bites, with amazing views over Lumphini Park. To eat, try the burrato di bufala with heirloom tomatoes, pan-seared Tasmanian salmon with white asparagus, leek, fennel and hollandaise sauce, and Iberico belotta with fresh melon. Out at the bar it’s all about cocktails.

29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Rd., 02-624-0000.

Open daily 6-10:30pm. MRT Lumphini

Red Sky The 55th-floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree.

Alfresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch, while the seasonal menus spotlight classic, rich steak dishes. Don’t miss the truffle-infused wagyu beef

tenderloin Rossini—a menu staple and proven crowdpleaser.

55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. Open daily 6-11:30pm. BTS Siam

Vertigo Too Sixty levels above Sathorn Road, this tapas-and-cocktail bar offers beautiful views of Bangkok's energetic central business district down below.

An arching canopy of lights and sparsely lit dining area create a sophisticated vibe, and you can expect an eclectic menu filled with both Western and Thai classic dishes to be enjoyed alongside daily live music performances. On the boozy side, drinks pluck from all the best cocktail trends.

60/F, Banyan Tree, 100 Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am

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BAANNUAL

It may look a little rough around the edges, but this Thai restaurant situated beneath an antique wooden house comes brimming with exciting flavors. Baannual paints a quaint picture of life in Bangkok’s Old Town, offering only two tables set amid decorative flower arrangements, rattan birdcages, and a soundtrack that mixes old Thai songs of the ‘70s and ‘80s with the crowing of nearby roosters. The simple menu spotlights local staples like moo pad kapi, stir-fried pork neck with shrimp paste from Chumporn, and yum dokkajorn, a Thai-style cowslip creeper salad with minced pork and shrimp that’s made with boiled coconut cream.

372 Samsen Soi 2 (Soi Phra Sawat), 081-8897403. Open Tue-Fri noon-9pm; Sat-Sun 4-9pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots

1

FINE DINING WITH LOCAL PRODUCE

80/20

At this Charoenkrung restaurant, executive chef Napol Jantraget and his Canadian accomplice Andrew Martin use local ingredients and made-from-scratch elements for a daringly different take on Thai cuisine. The lamb tartare is a complex medley of herbs and spicy Northeastern Thai dressing, while the tea-smoked duck breast with charred young pumpkin and pumpkin puree is further proof fusion is no longer a dirty word. The desserts by Saki Hoshino (try the warm molten chocolate with chili ice cream) and cocktails are equally on-point.

Khua Kling + Pak Sod

1052-1054 Charoenkrung Rd., 087-593-1936, 02-639-1135.

Open Wed-Sun 6pm-midnight; Mon 6pm-midnight

BO.LAN

2

The crowded and boisterous premises, and occasionally surly service, are a fine match for the unapologetically fiery food at this Southern Thai institution. Among the heady highlight dishes are pork and beef iterations of kua kling, the minced meat palate-rouser served with a basket of greens from which the restaurant takes its name, and the perfectly pungent stir-fried stink beans with shrimp paste.

BO.LAN

Featuring fine Thai cuisine made using traditional methods and the best ingredients, Bo.lan—an amalgam of chef-couple Bo and Dylan Jones’s names—has made a splash in the global dining world with its aromatic curries, beautifully plated salads and artfully conceived menu.

Adding to the allure is a striking dining room, set in an old house replete with tropical garden and close to hipster thoroughfare Soi Thonglor. Try the “Bo. lan balance,” a menu which changes along with the seasons.

98/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-185-3977. BTS Asoke.

Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-9.30pm. khualingpaksod.com 80/20

24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. BTS Thong Lo. Open Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm; Sat 6-10:30pm; Sun 6-10:30pm; SatSun noon-2:30pm

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DINING AWESOME BANGKOK BURGERS

CRYING THAIGER

Chef Bar Cramming into this miniscule venue that barely fits 10 diners is totally worth it for a taste of the burgers made with truly top-grade ingredients—try the Robbins Island pasture-fed wagyu burger.

3

BUNKER

Here there’s an intimate spaciousness conjured by the brutalist concrete building’s many angles and alcoves. The involvement of Eat Me (no.23 in Asia’s Best Restaurants 2017) figures like Kelly Wheatley and Tim Butler made it the hottest talking point in town even before it opened, but the cooking of head chef Arnold Marcella has ensured lasting buzz. Most recently, he’s introduced a tasting menu entirely devoted to his daily morning finds in Bangkok’s fresh market.

118/2 Sathorn Soi 12, 092-563-9991, 02-234-7749. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open Sun-Wed 5:30pm-1am; Thu-Sat 5:30pm-2am

Crying Thaiger This intimate wedge of space does protein-packed comfort food like the Mediterranean lamb burger, slathered with tzatziki and feta cheese.

27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 097-052-8861. BTS Thong Lo. Open daily 5-11pm

Firehouse

33/26 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-651-3643. BTS Nana. Open daily 11:30am-11:30pm

BUNKER

4

Head here for old-school American fast-food burgers, with flat patties, oozing cheese and zesty pickles.

1/F, The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 02-185-2472. Open Mon-Fri 11am-midnight; Sat-Sun 10am-midnight

113/9-10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 099-614-1158. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Fri 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-12:30pm

This kiosk serves comforting Thai bites in burger form, including the Risky Chicken (fried chicken and somtam with Sriracha mayo on a brioche bun).

G/F, The Commons, 335/1 Thonglor 17, 02-101-4526.

Open daily 11am-10pm

Stax Diner

GAA

Chef Gaggan Anand, whose restaurant has been named the best in Asia three years in a row by the voters of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, invests in the talents of one of his former sous-chefs, Garima Arora, at this bright yellow restaurant directly opposite his own. Arora makes her mark with seasonal tasting menus (8 or 12 courses) that spotlight ingredients found in the coastal region between Thailand and India, while also going to pains to make as much produce as possible from scratch, whether it’s a rich split-pea miso paste or creamy house-made paneer cheese.

68/4 Soi Lang Suan, 091-419-2424. BTS Ratchadamri.

Open daily 6pm-midnight

CANVAS

The black and white tiles and French windows say upscale bistro, though there’s a clear modern edge to this restaurant-slash-bar’s huge open kitchen and bar-seating format. Texashailing chef Riley Sanders heads a kitchen that takes the best of local ingredients and cooking techniques, but uses them to create flavors and dishes that are anything but authentically Thai. His beef cheek dish gets cooked for three days before being basted in Thailand’s pungent kapi shrimp paste, while his take on Japanese eel features a glaze made from sticky Thai tamarind.

Soul Food 555

CANVAS

5

Sukhumvit Soi 21/2, 080-052-7336. MRT Sukhumvit.

Open Mon-Sat 5-9pm; Sat noon-3pm

The Thai-French beef patties from Pon Yang Kham Cooperative farms are always juicy and cooked perfectly to order, while the buns are soft, fresh and non-yielding.

Y

GAA

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SHOPS+SERVICES LONELY TWO LEGGED CREATURE Taking up a prime spot in Charoenkrung’s new Warehouse 30 (see page 19) is the fashion project of the complex’s mastermind, the architect Duangrit Bunnag. Here, he pairs up with young, local designer Amphai Kerdhnongmon to present clothing that’ll please anyone of a minimal disposition. Both women’s and men’s lines play with tropical full-print looks on shirts and pants, but for the most part the designs are sharp and understated—dresses, shirts, pants and tees in neutral tones with an oversized but well-tailored look. This being a Duangrit project, the space is also gorgeous.

Warehouse 30, Charoenkrung Soi 30. Open daily 11am-8:30pm

Hot Spots BEST THAI-MADE GIFTS

1

5

ALEXANDER LAMONT

Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans in Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful.

2/F, Central Embassy, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5772. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm

GOOD DESIGN

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GOOD DESIGN

The Japan Institute for Design Promotion (JDP) has teamed up with a local gallerist to create this boutique dedicated to award-winning design from Japan. Decked out in cool tones of white and gray, the space looks as much like an art gallery as it does a shop, with products carefully displayed alongside explanatory notes, just as if you were visiting an exhibition. The selection of items comes mostly from Japanese designers (of course), ranging from iconic pieces like Sori Yanagi’s Butterfly Stool to smaller keepsakes and gifts like the super-cool Urushi card case (by Kirimoto Wooden Craft Factory. A few G Mark-awarded Thai designs join the space, too.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605686. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-10pm

ANOTHER STORY

This concept store gathers designer product from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some to-die-for food.

ANOTHER STORY

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FOUND BY TRIMODE

4/F, The EmQuartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02003-6138/9. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-10pm

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Trimode’s lead jewelry designer traveled to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products, in collaboration with The Support Arts and Crafts International Centre of Thailand. The brand won the big prize at the Asia Talents 2014 segment of BIG+BIH for products like Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat, and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes.

3/F, The Wonder Room, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd., 02658-1098. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm

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OTOP HERITAGE

One of a number of Thai craft shops under The One Tambon One Product (OTOP) brand, this store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around the country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. Other OTOP sites include OTOP The Walking Street in Silom (02-635-7061) and OTOP The Avenue (096-231-2843) in Ramintra.

4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605975. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 10am-8pm

SIAM DISCOVERY A top-to-bottom renovation of the buidling and total overhaul of the stores inside has really made this once-aging mall a must-visit destination for any shopper. As well as all the big international brands, you’ll find a focus on the best of local, Thai-made design. Don’t miss O.D.S., a store dedicated to awardwinning local home decore, jewelry and accessories brands, or the selection of Japanese cult labels like Issey Miyake, Yoshio Kubo and Discord by Yoji Yamamoto. The mall itself is also pretty spectacular, created by Japanese design house Nendo.

Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-10pm

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

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JAREONTHONG MUAYTHAI KHAOSAN NEW

Locations to learn the art of Thai kickboxing don’t come more perfect than this. With the Old Town’s golden temple spires rising in the background, learn how to punch and kick like a pro in the hands of seasoned fighter Jareonthong Kiatbanchong. The ‘90s muay Thai legend has taken on his fair share of champion competitors at the old Lumpini stadium, but these days trains a younger generation of students as well as total novices up for a challenge. Sessions at the rooftop training area last 1.5 hours.

Tanee Rd., 02-629-2313. Open daily 10am-9pm

Hot Spots BEST GOLF COURSES

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THANA CITY GOLF AND SPORTS CLUB

Right on the flight path of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thana City offers a challenging course dotted with bunkers, lakes and streams. There’s a special Monday golf course (B1,650 including caddy).

The attached sports club features swimming pools, fitness, tennis, badminton, table-tennis, squash and a kid’s zone—perfect for family to enjoy activities together.

ALPINE GOLF CLUB

1

100/2 M.4, Bangna-Trad Highway, Bangchalong, 02336-1968. Open daily 5:30am-7:30pm (golf club). www. thanacitygolf.com

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THAI COUNTRY CLUB

Managed by Peninsula Hotels, this 7,157yard course is known for its excellent service. The course was designed by Dennis Griffiths under US PGA international standards. It has regularly been voted Asia’s Top Course by Asian Golf magazine.

88 M.1, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 35.5, 038-570-234. Open Tue-Sun 6am-8pm (closed on Mon except pvublic holidays). www.thaicountryclub.com

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ALPINE GOLF CLUB

Since opening in 1996, the golf club, designed by legendary American golf course architect Ron M. Garl, has hosted many important international golf tournaments. It was even the spot of Tiger Woods’ Asian Tour win in 2000. Plenty of other sports are on offer thanks to a swimming pool, fitness facilities and an aerobics center at the clubhouse.

There’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi.

99 M.9 Bangkhan-Sathaneevithayu Rd., Klong 5, 02-5773333. Open Tue-Sun 6:30am-7pm (closed on Mon except public holidays). www.alpinegolfclub.com

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LE MERIDIEN SUVARNABHUMI

Just a short taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok’s Golf Resort & Spa, situated in the Summit Windmill Golf Club, has both day and night golf courses, elegant guest rooms and various leisure facilities including exclusive access to the clubhouse, spa and pool. There are also plenty of restaurants: try Favola for Italian and Latitude 13°39’ for evening drinks.

789 M.14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 10.5, Bangplee, 02-1187777 (Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi), 02-750-2112 (Summit Windmill Golf Club). Open daily Mon 6am-7pm, Tue-Fri 6pm-12am (no night golf on Mon). www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

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ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Located close to the International Airport, this sceneic country club’s abundance of trees and lakes make it one of the most challenging courses near the capital. Its signature “Mickey Mouse hole” (no. 16, par 4) sits guarded by a trip of bunkers resembling the Disney character, while the greens throught the course are always immaculate.

69 M.7, Tambon Rd., Sisa Chorakhe Noi, Bang Sao Thong, 02-738-1010. Open daily 6am-6pm

The Oriental Spa As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa is set in a century-old teak house including five specialty suites, 10 private rooms and a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy.

Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, a 1.5-hour aromatherapy massage of essential oils; the Oriental Organic Journey, a 2.5-hour full-body detoxifying scrub and steam; the Herbal Wrap, an hour-long wrap using fresh herbs from Chiang Mai to target dehydrated skin, and plenty more options. Full day and half day spa packages are also available.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open daily 9am-10pm

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ATTRACTIONS BOUNCE THAILAND At Asia’s biggest trampoline park, you can bounce about in a giant room packed with interconnecting trampolines—whether it’s for serious exercise or simply to have some fun. The Free Jumping zone lets you ping around at leisure or practice some pro moves, while the Bounce Fit zone shows you just about the most fun way possible to keep in shape. Kids can join too (aged three and above), with the Bounce Zone offering a safe environment for them to play.

5/F, The St. Ratchada, New Ratchadapisek Rd., 02014-2446. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre. Open daily 10am-10pm

Hot Spots EXCITING SHOWS

1

This grand visual spectacle draws on the histories of Thailand’s four main regions— the North, the South, the Central Plains and the Northeast—to present an 80-minute crash course on the nation that delves into its religious beliefs and major festivals. Expect plenty of state-of-the-art effects and a full, on-site replica village, as well as a variety of pre-performance cultural activities. Showtime 8pm, doors open 5pm. Tickets are B1,500-2,850 from www.siamniramit.com.

19 Thiem-Ruammit Rd., 02-649-9222. Open daily 5-10pm

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

2

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SIAM NIRAMIT BANGKOK

MUAY THAI LIVE: THE LEGEND LIVES

This fast-paced live Thai boxing show was created and directed by Ekachai Uekrongtham, the artistic director of Action Theatre in Singapore and director of films like Beautiful Boxer and Pleasure Factory. The stage show features more than just Thai kickboxing, throwing in plenty of swashbuckling action and a sprinkling of romance, all performed by former Muay Thai champs and national boxers. Tickets are B1,200-1,500.

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 4, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-5999 Open Tue-Sun 8-9:30pm

BAAN SILAPIN

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BAAN SILAPIN

Also known as “The Artist’s House,” this century-old wooden residence sits on the banks of Bang Luang Canal, the former home of a merchant family, and has been transformed into a public space celebrating traditional Thai culture. This hidden gem is a great place to experience the slow life of old Bangkok, whether that’s simply relaxing by the canal, strolling around the ancient homes, sampling traditional drinks, shopping for art or catching the Thai puppet show (daily, except Wednesday, arrive before 2pm).

CALYPSO

The first Broadway-style cabaret show in Bangkok, founded in 1988, consists of 70 artists performing a diverse variety of cultural shows, from arirang (Korean classic folk tale) to kinnaree (classical Thai dance) to a contemporary burlesque act. It’s all massively kitsch and something of a Bangkok institution. Tickets are B1,200 for the show only or B2,000 including dinner. Reservations at www.calypsocabaret.com.

Asiatique the Riverfront, Warehouse 3, 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-688-1415. Open daily 8:15-9:45pm

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315 Wat Thongsala Ngam, Phasi Charoen-BangKaa Soi 28 (Phet Kasem), 02-868-5297. Open daily 10am-6pm

4

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

At Thailand’s most famous muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, foreigners get seated ringside while the outer seats are occupied by hardgambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting. It’s also the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week. Prices depend on the fighters. For reservations, visit rajadamnern.com.

1 Ratchadamnoen Ave, Pom Prap Sattru Pai, 02-2814205. Open Sun-Mon 6:30-11pm; Wed-Thu 3-11pm

Suan Pakkad Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thai-style houses was Thailand’s first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son.

352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm

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EXHIBITION

REMEMBRANCE OF THE GREAT KING In honor of the late H.M. King Bhumibol’s artistic talent and support of the arts, this exhibition features over 160 pieces of rare artwork by leading Thai artists in various mediums, including prints by Pinit Phantaprawat, the engraver of the King’s portrait for banknote production. The exhibition will also feature never-before-seen photographs of King Bhumibol curated

by Sakchai Guy, editor and founder of Lips magazine.

8/F, Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC), 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium. Until Nov 26

Hot Spots THAI ARTS

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THE LAND OF VIRTUE, THE LAND OF KARMA

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Drawing from Buddha’s teachings of good and evil, controversial Bangkok artist Anupong Chantorn unveils a new series highlighting the core meaning of Buddhism through sculptures based on Apaya Bhumi, a demon disguised in monk’s robes.

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, Belle Ville, 99/45 Borommarachonnanee Rd, 02-422-2092. Open TueSat 10:30am-7pm; Sun 10:30am-5pm. Until Oct 1 HOPE LAND

1

A TALEBEARER’S TALE: THE LAST DEER

Sakarin Krue-On, who represented Thailand at the Venice Biennale back in 2009, is known for blending traditional Thai imagery with modern techniques. His latest installation constructs a life-size replica of the majestic Schomburgk’s deer, a native breed to Thailand that is now extinct.

4

SOMEWHERE (NOT HERE)

Emerging artist Rungruang Sittirerk teamed up with filmmaker Marisa Srijunplang to recount their childhood experiences of migrating from the rural countryside to the city, drawing on rural songs, movies and folktales.

Tentacles 2198/10-11 Narathiwas Soi 22, 089-1173434. Open Tue-Sun 11am-9pm. Until Oct 20

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

Tang Contemporary Art, 153 Ratchadamri Rd., 02652-2732. Open Tue-Sat 11am-7pm. Until Sep 23

2

HOPE LAND

Bangkok based American photographer Adam Birkan was named as one of Magnum’s 30 Under 30 in 2015. He debuts his new series after documenting the city from his window for the past year and a half. The work looks at daily life through pastel-toned and dreamlike images.

Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 083-5451-833. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. BTS Surasak. Until Sep 24

THE LAND OF VIRTUE, THE LAND OF KARMA

Set in the bustling area across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the city's foremost art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors.

They can vary wildly in quality, but regularly offer glimpses of the country's best privately-held contemporary art collections. The center also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops, and a movie theatre on its top floor.

939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. BTS National Stadium

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NAVIGATE

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BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

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River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

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8 Wat Pho

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9 Wat Arun

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On Nut ͋͹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service.

Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price.

There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS­ Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines.

Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130.

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40.

There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak.

Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS­ While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

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!1

7

8

!5

@0

1 Tasting the deliciously inventive 7 Enjoying the stunning view of !3 Booking a table at the hip Thon- !9 Sampling the best local produce the newly renovated Wat Arun over coffee at Supanniga x Roots. See page 14.

2 Spending a night out in the cocktail dens of Charoenkrung Road.

See page 10.

!4 Playing 18 holes at the stunning @0 Sipping on the perfectly poured 8 Shopping for local designer finds Alpine Golf Club on the outskirts of cocktails of ‘50s live jazz institution

3 Listening to live classical Thai

!5 Chowing down on the ultimate @1 Glimpsing the bygone lifestyle of 9 Catching the latest exhibition at Thai-style burgers at Soul Food 555. Thailand’s aristocracy at Suan Pak-

music while doing shots of ya-dong herbal whiskey at Tep Bar. See page 21.

at the stunning Warehouse 30 complex of boutiques. See page 19.

the art gallery adjoining the historic Jim Thompson House. See page 4.

glor neighborhood’s most in-demand restaurant, Canvas. See page 6.

and shopping for gifts at the Bangkok Farmers’ Market. See page 4.

takes on Thai food at modern bistro 80/20. See page 22.

The Bamboo Bar. See page 20.

the city. See page 25.

kad Palace. See page 26.

See page 23.

!6 Ending a river cruise at the beau4 Finding Locker Room, a lavish !0 Heading over to Chinatown to tiful antique spa of Mandarin Oriensecret bar hidden behind a wall of grungy gym lockers. See page 20.

celebrate the Vegetarian Festival with some of the city’s best meatfree street food. See page 27.

!7 Jumping about on the giant trampolines at Bounce Thailand. See

5 Exploring the coffee shops and local beer bars of Phra Athit Road.

See page 15.

tal hotel. See page 25.

!1 Dining on rustic Thai staples at the page 26. charmingly rough-around-the-edges Baannual restaurant. See page 22.

!8 Discovering the extraordinary

6 Staying up late to watch the

couture fashion taste of Thailand’s

botanical trading action at Bangkok’s flower market, Pak Klong Talad. See page 15.

!2 Checking out the designer Japa- beloved queen at the Queen Sirikit nese fashion finds at Siam Discovery. See page 24.

Museum of Textiles. See page 54.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok Amara Bangkok AETAS Bangkok All season Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Amari Watergate Hotel Bangkok Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Hotel Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Hotel Bangkok Centara Hotel & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Hotel Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Hotel Dusit Thani Bangkok Hotel Bangkok Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Emporium Suites Bangkok Four Points by Sheraton Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel & Spa (former Four Seasons) Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Holiday Inn Silom Hotel Hotel Muse Hua Chang Heritage Hotel InterContinental Bangkok Hotel JW Marriott Bangkok Klapsons the River Residences Le Fenix Sukhumvit Lebua Hotel Bangkok Luxx Hotel Majestic Grande hotel Mandarin Oriental Hotel Mandarin Hotel Managed by Centre Point Mercure & ibis Bangkok Siam

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where Thailand

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ViVa Garden

Novotel Bangkok Hotel

W Bangkok Hotel

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Hotels in other province

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Shopping Mall Central World

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Section)

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St Regis

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Yodpiman River Walk

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Centara Duangtawan Hotel Chiang Mai

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