Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island 2011 Visitor Guide by WhidbeyExaminer

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Live the Island dream… “Janet’s professionalism, intuition & Island knowledge are phenomenal!” - Jeff & Nora “Genuine, creative, outstanding service... Janet is truly a pleasure to work with!” - Arlynn & Chris

FRONT STREET REALTY Drop by my office next to the Coupeville Wharf 22 NW Front St., Suite B • Coupeville, WA 98239 360-678-6100 • 206-387-1924 www.janetburchfield.com

COUPEVILLE & CENTRAL WHIDBEY VISITOR GUIDE Historic Coupeville Natural Beauty Romantic Getaway Wild, Wild Whidbey The Arts Scene Fun for All Ages Fresh from Central Whidbey Whidbey Island Map Greenbank Farm Eat Like a Local A Sense of Place Rain Shadow Calendar

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On the Cover: Coupeville’s annual Memorial Day parade is the perfect opportunity to enjoy the outdoors here on Central Whidbey. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner Above: The ferry M/V Chetzemoka makes its way across Admiralty Inlet after launching from Keystone Harbor near Coupeville. The 2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Visitor Guide is a special publication of The Whidbey Examiner, Whidbey Island’s only locally owned, independent community newspaper. To subscribe, call 360-678-8060. Visit the Examiner online at www.whidbeyexaminer.com. Publisher & Editor Kasia Pierzga, Editorial Assistant Rebecca Olson and Production Artists Sueann Carter & Denise Westmoreland. Contributing writers: Cheryl Bradkin, Betty Freeman and Dan Pedersen. Contributing photographers: Jill Hein & Joe Novotny. © 2011 The Whidbey Examiner, Coupeville, Washington. All Rights Reserved. This content, including derivations, may not be stored or distributed in any manner, disseminated, published, broadcast, rewritten or reproduced without express, written consent from The Whidbey Examiner. The 2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Visitor Guide is available online at www.whidbeyexaminer.com.

upeville o C c Histori

Enjoy our small-town charm

n the heart of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve – the only reserve of its kind in the United States – is the small town of Coupeville, a place steeped in history. Founded in 1852 and named after Captain Coupe, a New England sea captain, Coupeville is the second-oldest town in Washington, having been founded two years before Seattle. Much of the town’s history has been carefully preserved, with more than 100 buildings on the National Historic Register. Coupeville’s historic glory days began in the mid 1800s, when its bustling little business district caught the attention of sea captains from New England, some 50 of whom eventually sailed into the pristine waters of Penn Cove and settled into their new home. Coupeville thrived from the middle 1800s to the early 1900s. Businessmen sold goods to prospectors headed to Alaska to seek their fortune, steamboats built in Coupeville plied the waters of Puget Sound, and the town’s residents built beautiful Victorian homes that reflected the town’s prosperity. In the late 1930s, as development shifted to other parts of Puget Sound, Coupeville settled in as a sleepy little agricultural village. Then in the late 1960s, a modest coffee shop opened and became a new focal point for the revitalization of Coupeville’s historic waterfront shopping district. The

The Whidbey Examiner

Coupeville loves a parade, and there's none more popular than the annual Memorial Day parade. It's the oldest Memorial Day parade in Washington, and a perfect excuse to practice your best "parade wave" and enjoy some good ol' fashioned, small-town fun! Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

owners of the Wet Whisker, Jim and Dave Stewart, went on to found Seattle’s Best Coffee – part of the early Northwest coffee culture that forever changed the way Americans think about their favorite caffeinated drink. Surrounded by scenic farms, the shimmering waters of Penn Cove and Admiralty Inlet and the majestic mountain beauty of the Olympics and the North Cascades in the distance, Coupeville seems frozen in time. The town’s beautifully preserved historic buildings, peaceful charm and interesting, unique shops and restaurants attract visitors looking to experience a bit of the past while enjoying a relaxing getaway. A great place to begin your visit to the Reserve is the Central Whidbey Chamber

of Commerce visitor Center at 905 NW Alexander St. in downtown Coupeville. The visitor center is housed in Coupeville’s historic fire hall, which was built in 1937 and refurbished in 2011. Public restrooms can be found on the north side of the building. Visitors to downtown Coupeville find a vibrant business district housed in the town’s original buildings, charming bedand-breakfast inns, beautiful Victorian homes, breathtaking views, a chance to see gray whales and orcas, and a warm welcome from locals eager to share the best of their hometown. Coupeville also is home to the oldest working wharf in Puget Sound. The historic, barn-red granary at the end of the

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

450-foor pier was built in 1905 for the Mosquito Fleet and ships bringing supplies to Whidbey Island and carrying away the produce from local farms. Today, the remodeled wharf building houses a restaurant, an espresso bar and shops featuring gifts and souvenirs, Whidbey-made products and marine supplies for those arriving by boat. The building also houses an interpretive display focusing on the marine life in Penn Cove, the preserved skeletons of a gray whale, a Dall’s porpoise and a sea lion as well as an interactive underwater camera you can use to check out the sea life beneath the wharf. The wharf also offers public restrooms and showers for visiting boaters. An 80foot long fuel pier provides access to diesel fuel and unleaded gasoline. Floats attached to the wharf provide about 400 feet of mooring space for pleasure craft. No electricity or fresh water is available at these floats. Just west of the wharf are four mooring buoys for boats 32 feet or less. One of the more unusual destinations for visitors to Central Whidbey is historic Sunnyside Cemetery, just south of Coupeville. Located high on a wooded ridge above Ebey’s Prairie, the peaceful grounds have a broad, sweeping view of Admiralty Inlet and the beautiful farmland below. In the distance, the white-capped peaks of the Olympic Mountains to the west and the Cascade Range to the east provide a majestic backdrop. Established in 1865 with the burial of Winfield Ebey, the cemetery is the final resting place of many early pioneers. Also buried at Sunnyside are Chinese laborers, Native Americans descended from Whidbey Island’s early inhabitants and sea captains from the eastern United States who sailed into Penn Cove in the early 1850s and found their idyllic vision of safe harbor. The cemetery is also home to Davis Blockhouse, a small structure originally built as a log cabin in 1853 and later remodeled into a blockhouse after pioneer Isaac Ebey was beheaded in 1857 by a raiding party from a Northern tribe seeking revenge for the death of a chief. Ebey and his wife were the island’s first white settlers, arriving in 1852.

VE THE DA T

Tea & Talk

May 28 – Memorial Day Parade & Remembrance Ceremony in Coupeville. A quintessential small-town parade honoring America’s veterans with music, food and celebration. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434.

• Tea & Accessories • English Treats • Tea Body Products • Self-Serve Tea Bar • Free WiFi

June 25 – Strawberry Social, Coupeville United Methodist Church. An honest-to-goodness old-time social featuring waffles, shortcake or sundaes made with fresh strawberries from Bell’s Farm near Coupeville. 360-678-4256. Aug. 12 - 14 – Coupeville Arts & Crafts Festival, historic downtown Coupeville. Artists and craftspeople fill the streets for this community celebration, held annually since 1964. The tall ships Lady Washington and Hawaiian Chieftain will visit Coupeville Wharf and stage an exciting mock battle on Penn Cove. coupevilleartsandcraftsfestival.org. 360-678-5116.

Enjoy our Garden Courtyard! 7 NW Front St. in historic Coupeville 360-678-3012 www.exoticteastore.com

Ecle

ctic toys, books c ar d s & ca n dy

October – Scarecrow Corridor, Coupeville. Vote for your favorite scarecrow on display all month throughout historic Coupeville. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434. Dec. 3 – The Greening of Coupeville and annual Holiday Parade, historic Coupeville. Stake out your spot along Main Street or Front Street to watch an old-fashioned holiday parade led by Santa Claus aboard a decorated fire truck. Tree-lighting and caroling follow. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434.

Pickled & Matjes Herring

Over 35 types of Licorice

The Honey Bear wn Coupeville d to l o 23 Fr ric ont Street in histo

678-6122

Open every day

Dutch Treats and More! We carry a large selection of Dutch food, as well as Delftware, C & F quilts, jewelry, and Heritage lace. www.atouchof dutch.com • Store Hours: Mon.-Sat. 10:30-5 11 NW Front St., Coupeville • 1-877-240-5400 • 360-678-7729

Take home some Bitterballen to Fry!

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

The Whidbey Examiner 3

Parks showcase our Island’s natural beauty K

ids of all ages enjoy visiting Central Whidbey’s beautiful parks, each offering something unique, including beautiful hiking trails, pristine beaches, tent and RV camping, playfields, a historic fort, a retired lighthouse, spectacular gardens and an underwater marine park. At Fort Casey State Park, families enjoy exploring the old fort structures that once were part of the U.S. Army’s “Triangle of Fire” – three military forts that together protected the entrance to Admiralty Inlet. Activated in 1901, the fort was equipped with batteries of “disappearing guns,” so named for their ability to disappear behind the walls of their emplacements during reloading, protecting the gun and crew from enemy bombardment. In its day, the disappearing gun was the height of military technology. Fort Casey was used as a troop training facility during both World Wars. Fort Casey State Park and adjacent Fort Ebey State Park offer RV and tent camping, hiking trails, fishing, miles of pristine beach to explore and lots of opportunities to see wildlife ranging from seals, waterfowl and shorebirds to our majestic national symbol, the American bald eagle. Fort Casey also offers beach access, restrooms and a public-access boat ramp adjacent to the ferry terminal at Keystone Harbor. The site also boasts an underwater marine park that is a popular destination for scuba divers. Fort Casey also is home to Admiralty Head lighthouse, located high on a distinctive red bluff overlooking Admiralty Inlet and the Keystone-Port Townsend ferry crossing. During its working life, the lighthouse was an important navigational aid for sailing ships headed to Puget

4 The Whidbey Examiner

Beaches in Central Whidbey – and throughout Whidbey Island – provide opportunities for inspiration, relaxation and exploration for kids of all ages. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

Sound from the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Built in 1903, the lighthouse, which replaced the original wooden structure, boasts 18-inch, stucco-covered brick walls designed to withstand the concussion from Fort Casey’s big guns. It was operated only until the early 1920s, when steamships replaced sailing ships and the lighthouse was no longer necessary. Today, the lighthouse houses Fort Casey’s interpretive center and is open to the public for free tours. It has also

become a popular spot for weddings, and in December, when the building is dressed in its best holiday attire, it hosts a special holiday gift shop. Island County-owned Rhododendron Park, about 2 miles south of Coupeville off Hwy. 20, offers RV and tent camping, trails, ball fields, picnic shelters, restrooms and a playground. Nearby, Patmore Pit Off-Leash Dog Park offers 40 fenced acres that includes a separate area for timid or small dogs. The big, grassy meadow is a great place for unrestrained canine games of Frisbee or fetch. Bring your own waste bags. From Hwy. 20 near Milepost 19, turn onto Patmore Road for a short distance to the park entrance on the left. Libbey Beach, a county-owned park, has restrooms and is a nice spot for birding, a waterfront barbecue or a sunset walk on the beach. It’s on the west shore of the island at the end of Libbey Road off Hwy. 20, just north of Coupeville. Another great place for a picnic is Coupeville Town Park, located about a block west of Coupeville Wharf. The park, which offers a picnic area, restrooms and a tennis court, also features a covered outdoor stage that hosts summertime concerts and other events. If you’re looking for a playground where your children can burn off some energy, try the swings at Coupeville Town Park and the playgrounds at Coupeville Elementary School on South Main and at Rhododendron Park on Patmore Road. At Meerkerk Gardens near Greenbank, visitors can enjoy a Northwest-style woodland garden surrounded by a lush, 43-acre woodland preserve. Be sure to visit in

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

spring to enjoy a spectacular wonderland of rhodies in full bloom. The gardens also host an annual spring rhododendron sale and a variety of gardenthemed activities for adults and children. Greenbank Farm, on Hwy. 525 just north of Greenbank, offers 522 acres of rolling fields, forest and wetlands with a 180-degree panoramic view of the Olympic Mountains and Admiralty Inlet to the west and the Cascade Range and Saratoga Passage to the east. The historic farm houses several art galleries, a restaurant, a wine shop and a shop that features cheeses and specialty foods and gifts. The 100-year-old barn is a popular backdrop for outdoor weddings and other events, including the Loganberry Festival held each July.

H E D AT VE T E

Aug. 14 - Whidbey Island Highland Games, Greenbank Farm. Pipe bands, dancers, sheepdog demonstrations and more. wihg.org. 360-331-5437.

Whidbey General Hospital Foundation attracts cyclists from throughout the region for 10-, 40-, 50- and 100-mile routes. whidbeygen. org. 360-678-7656, ext. 4020.

Sept. 11 – Community Concert & Salmon Barbecue, Coupeville Town Park, Coupeville. Free outdoor concert sponsored by Concerts on the Cove; barbecued salmon served by the Coupeville Lions Club. concertsonthecove.org. 360-678-6821.

Nov. 25 - Dec. 31 – Holiday Gift Shop, Admiralty Head Lighthouse, Fort Casey State Park. Open weekends. admiraltyhead.wsu. edu. 360-240-5584.

Sept. 24 – Tour de Whidbey, Coupeville. This annual bicycle event to raise money for the

Dec. 3 – Jingle Trail Run and Walk, Fort Ebey State Park, Coupeville. 5k run and 1-mile walk through pretty forest trails. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434.

Please join us ~ The 2nd Friday in August - Our Annual Lobster, Seafood & Produce Sale

Create the

Perfect Picnic

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Rotisserie Chicken Fresh Fruits & Veggies Ready-to-Eat Sandwiches & Salads Cheeses & Breads Wine & Beer Snacks Desserts

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Maps • Gas Video Rental Fishing Licenses Local Products

PRAIRIE CENTER

408 S. Main St. • Coupeville • 678-5611

Mon-Sat 7 am - 9:30 pm • Sun & holidays 8 am - 9 pm 2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

The Whidbey Examiner 5

Island Romance

Escape for a romantic getaway A summer sunrise is reflected on the waters of Penn Cove, where the tall ships Lady Washington and Hawaiian Chieftain are moored at Coupeville Wharf during a visit that coincided with the Coupeville Arts and Crafts Festival. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

he serene and relaxing environment of Central Whidbey is a perfect place for romance. Whether you’re celebrating an anniversary, escaping for a honeymoon or looking for just the right place to “pop the question,” we offer a variety of accommodations ranging from private getaway vacation homes and intimate Victorian bedand-breakfasts to traditional hotel suites and quaint country inns. No matter what your taste – or budget – we’ve got just the perfect place for you to stay as you spend time on the Island. During your visit, the historic waterfront town of Coupeville is a great place to spend a quiet day reconnecting with each other – and falling in love all over again. Wander through the one-of-a-kind shops and galleries along Front, Coveland and Main streets, where you can discover local and regional art, interesting and offbeat antiques, home and cabin décor, apparel, jewelry and unique Northwest gifts. Need help finding your way around? The friendly shopkeepers are glad to help! At lunchtime, grab a bite at one of several local eateries, with menus ranging from traditional tavern and roadhouse fare and homemade pies to Northwest bistro-style dining, Vietnamese cuisine, restaurants

The Whidbey Examiner

that emphasize foods produced by local farms and memorable fine dining featuring mussels grown right here in the clear waters of Penn Cove. A great way to relax and enjoy the spectacular local scenery is a drive along some of our most scenic routes. From downtown Coupeville, follow Coveland Street west to where it becomes Madrona Way, a winding route lined with majestic red madrona trees that follows the shoreline of Penn Cove, where a floating mussel farm grows Central Whidbey’s signature shellfish. Following Main Street south across Highway 20, the road becomes Engle Road as it heads out of town across the pastoral farmland of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Follow the road uphill and take a right on Hill Road, which takes you out along the bluff above our island’s rugged western shore. From Ebey’s Landing – the beach at the bottom of the hill – you can see tugboats and container vessels on the waters of Admiralty Inlet, along with cruise ships headed to north to Canada and Alaska. This stretch is Central Whidbey’s premier spot for a romantic stroll, with miles of unspoiled beach lined with bleached

driftwood, eagles, hawks and gulls soaring overhead and sea lions bobbing in the surf. With a sweeping view to the west, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a spectacular sunset

Perhaps one of the best ways to tune into Central Whidbey's laid-back vibe is to take a leisurely afternoon bike ride through scenic Ebey's Prairie, then head into historic Coupeville for coffee or a bite to eat. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

any time of year. Another lovely place to discover and explore is the Admiralty Head lighthouse, located high on a bluff overlooking Admiralty Inlet within Fort Casey State Park, just south of Coupeville. From the bluff, you can see the Coupeville-Port Townsend ferry traveling back and forth between Whidbey Island and the Olympic Peninsula. A popular spot for weddings, the lighthouse is open for tours. In Greenbank, explore the shops and restaurant at Greenbank Farm. On the first Friday of each month, the farm’s wine shop offers evening wine tastings, the galleries and shops are open late and the farm’s restaurant offers a special menu that often features locally grown produce. Greenbank Farm also offers walking paths in the rolling fields above the barns, where you can enjoy the pastoral scenery and a view of the waters of Admiralty Inlet to the west and Saratoga Passage to the east. It’s a great place to enjoy a romantic picnic amid pretty, rolling fields. Visit the farm’s shops to pick up some delicious picnic treats. Just south of the farm, in the tiny hamlet of Greenbank, a small, scenic winery offers a place to taste local wines – and buy a bottle to take home. Back from a day of shopping and exploring, you’ll want to find a place to enjoy dinner before returning to your accommodations. Coupeville offers a variety of dining establishments ranging from waterfront restaurants and a Northwest bistro to a friendly tavern and several cafés. If you’re still not ready to turn in for the day, take your honey for a drive just north of Coupeville to the Blue Fox Drive-In, one of the few remaining old-fashioned outdoor cinemas in Washington. Coupeville also has a tradition of barn dances, which continue today with the Summer Swing Dance in July, and oldfashioned community potlucks, including a big one held each year in November at the historic Crockett Barn as part of the Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve anniversary celebration.

H E D AT VE T E

First Fridays at the Farm, held each month throughout the year at Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art galleries, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. May 21 – Day of Wine and Rhodies, Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, Greenbank. Tours, wine tasting and a silent auction in the gardens. meerkerkgardens.org. 360-678-1912. July 9 – Summer Swing Dance, Crockett Barn, Coupeville. Enjoy music from the seven-piece Uptown Lowdown Jazz Band. Spon-

Hungry for some

Local Flavor? Here’s what we’ve got on tap! Penn Cove Mussels • Juicy Burgers • Seafood Beer • Fish ’n’ Chips • Clam Chowder Pool Table • Spectacular Penn Cove View Voted Best of Whidbey!

sored by Concerts on the Cove. concertsonthecove.org. 360-678-6821. Oct. 8 & 9 – Whidbey Island Open Studio Tour. Some 100 working artists and craftspeople welcome visitors into their studios. islandartscouncil.org. 360-678-3396. Feb. 11 – 12, 2012 – Red Wine & Chocolate, Greenbank Farm. Celebrate the flavors of red wine and handcrafted chocolates at this romantic Valentine’s Day celebration. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700.

YEE

Restaurant, Lounge & Motel

The Local Favorite for Family Dining! Daily Specials • Modest Prices • Salad Bar Delicious Desserts (Pool table & Pulltabs in Lounge)

360-678-6616

8 NW Front Street, Coupeville • 360-678-4222 Find us online at tobysuds.com

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

Just 2 blocks south of SR 20

405 S. Main St., Coupeville www.tyeehotel.com

The Crockett Farm - Special Events Center Set amid stunning views of Admiralty Bay and the Olympics, the Historic Crockett Barn resembles a Shakespearean theatre inside, includes a grand dance floor and stages, and seats 200. The guesthouse and barn are located in a park-like setting with gardens, stonework and winding pathways. The Crockett Farm is the perfect setting for any special event, wedding or gathering. Paula Spina & Lance D. Loomis, Proprietors • Coupeville Crockett.Farm@gmail.com • CrockettBarn.com • 206.265.0981 / 206.437.0033 The Whidbey Examiner 7

ty u a e Natural B

The island still belongs to the birds, whales and wildlife T

he red-tailed hawks have seen it all. Centuries of Salish canoes. Tall ships. Trucks and tractors. Screaming Navy jet planes. Yet the elegant raptors still hang on thermals and swoop over fields along the graceful shore of Ebey’s Landing near Coupeville. They watch for something to move in the grass below, dismissing the handful of hikers making their way up the bluff-side trail at this exhilarating place where the prairie collides with the sea. Raptors, coyotes, salmon, shellfish, wildflowers and whales thrive amid the fields, skies, beaches and waters of rural Central Whidbey. Tame deer graze all day on the parade grounds at Camp Casey. It’s a natural paradise that’s equally rewarding to hikers, bicyclists, birders, whale-watchers, artists, photographers – and anyone looking for a serene island escape. And just off the west shore of Central Whidbey, Smith and Minor Islands Aquatic Reserve, designated in 2010, covers more than 36,300 acres of tidelands and seafloor habitat surrounding Smith and Minor islands, already part of the San Juan Islands National Wildlife Reserve. Connected to neighboring Minor Island by a spit of land visible only during low tide, Smith Island was once home to a lighthouse that endured for 100 years before erosion forced its abandonment in the mid-20th century. Little evidence of

The Whidbey Examiner

Orcas, also known as killer whales, cruise the west shore of Whidbey Island from October through January. Transient orcas may be seen in Whidbey waters at any time of the year, including in Penn Cove just off Coupeville Wharf. Photo: Jill Hein

human habitation remains, and the local wildlife has reclaimed the island. In Central Whidbey, farmers over the years have signed over the development rights to thousands of acres, now set aside forever as open prairie within Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Central Whidbey’s spectacular natural environment beckons visitors to explore. Here’s a list of suggestions for enjoying the best of what the region has to offer: Birding at Crockett Lake Hands down, the state-designated Important Bird Area at Crockett Lake is Whidbey Island’s top birding spot, among several great ones. Watch bald eagles devour their kill at the water’s edge while gangly great blue herons step deliberately in the marsh, necks coiled to spear dinner with their bills. This large marsh and adjacent saltwater shore attract dozens of migrating species, plus hawks, owls, swallows, red-winged blackbirds, waterfowl and shorebirds. Watch gray whales in Penn Cove and Saratoga Passage The large, leisurely grays often travel

solo. Several take up residence in Saratoga Passage in March during their spring migration northward, staying through early June to feed on ghost shrimp in the sandy shallows. Watch for plumes of spray, arching backs and tail flukes from public-access points at Monroe Landing, the beach at the west end of Penn Cove, Coupeville Wharf, Captain Coupe Park or Long Point. Book a springtime trip on a whale-watching boat from Coupeville Wharf. The grays will be found almost anywhere along the Whidbey and Camano shorelines from Coupeville to Langley. See orcas in Saratoga Passage and Admiralty Inlet Watch for agile, black-and-white orcas traveling in groups led by a female elder. Pods of Puget Sound resident orcas often prowl the west shore of Whidbey from October through January and may be seen from any high ground or from the deck of the Keystone ferry. Visiting transients pass through our waters at any time of year on either side of the island, and occasionally are spotted in Penn Cove just off the Coupeville Wharf.

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

Discover underwater marine life at Keystone Jetty Acres of anemones and coral-encrusted rocks await scuba divers at the underwater marine park next to the Keystone ferry landing. Divers find a wonderland of riotously colorful rockfish, large Pacific octopus and lingcod, schools of forage fish and undulating forests of kelp. A diver who visits on a weekend will often have the company of a lot of other visiting divers. But those who arrive on a weekday often get the entire dive site to themselves. These waters are cold and the currents dangerous; consult a pro with local experience at a dive shop in Oak Harbor or Anacortes. Admire majestic trees along Madrona Way There may be no more delightful canopy of madrone trees anywhere than along the several-mile stretch of Madrona Way, which hugs the southern shore of Penn Cove between Highway 20 and Coupeville. These rare, red-barked, broad-leafed evergreens grow mainly within sight of saltwater and reject human assistance of any kind, including watering! Mingle with mussels and marine life at Coupeville Wharf Gaze down from Coupeville Wharf at clusters of blue-shelled mussels, the succulent local bivalve that appears on restaurant

menus worldwide. The world’s largest commercial mussel farm, Penn Cove Shellfish, grows them from lines suspended from dozens of aquaculture rafts anchored a mile west of this pier. Visit the marine exhibits at the end of the pier to learn more about the cove and what swims here. And enjoy the wealth of waterfowl that visit the cove from September through May, including grebes, loons, scoters and goldeneye ducks. Enjoy trails and birds at Greenbank Farm Explore Whidbey’s narrow neck. The water on both sides of the Island can be seen from this rolling hillside, once a loganberry farm and now set aside as public land for all to enjoy. Walk the farm and woodland trails, watching for herons, hawks and other birds hunting in the grassy fields. Take your dog – and please bag any pet waste. Hike through old growth in Classic U Forest Marvel at rare monarchs of the forest – centuries-old cedars – when you walk the Wilbert Trail through the Classic U Forest at South Whidbey State Park. Visitors looking for a detailed guide to Whidbey Island’s spectacular natural landscape should pick up a copy of “Getting to the Water’s Edge on Whidbey and Camano Islands,” available for $15 at local bookstores and shops. The book, written by lo-

cal residents with extensive knowledge of the Island, provides maps and descriptions of 57 public places to enjoy the Whidbey shore and includes many trail maps and recreation suggestions. It’s also available by mail by placing an order at www.island. wsu.edu. Dan Pedersen is the author of “Whidbey Island’s Special Places,” a beautifully illustrated book that explores the island through the eyes of locals. The book is available at a variety of locations around Whidbey Island. Reach Dan at whidbeywriter.com.

VE THE DA T

May 7 – Picnic on the Prairie, Pacific Rim Institute for Environmental Stewardship, 180 Parker Road, Coupeville. Enjoy a day on Smith Prairie and learn about local wildflowers and wildlife as well as the prairie restoration, research and stewardship work being done by this local non-profit organization. pacificriminstitute.org. 360-678-5586. Feb 4, 2012 – Sound Waters, Coupeville High School campus. A fascinating one-day “university” with classes on marine life, plants and wildlife of Whidbey Island. beachwatchers. wsu.edu/island/soundwaters. 360-679-7327.

Welcome to the Port of Coupeville DECEPTION PASS

TOURS

Greenbank Farm

Hourly Boat Tours From $19 Per Person

Tickets can be purchased at the Bridge April ~ October

Coupeville Wharf & Marina

Diesel & Unleaded Gas • Showers for Boaters • Café • Coffee Shop • Gifts Moorage • Marine Exhibits • Kayak Rentals • Historic Facilities

Call 888-909-TOUR DeceptionPassTours.com 2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

Protecting the Environment • Promoting EcoTourism

portofcoupeville.org • 360-678-5020 The Whidbey Examiner 9

& Per for l a u min s i V

g Arts

Explore the Central Whidbey arts scene I

ers’ U.S. Open is an opportut’s no wonder that Cennity to see professional artists tral Whidbey is home to so at work, discover new talent and many artists. “pre-shop” for desired pieces. The Endless inspiration can be closing evening includes a gala at found in Central Whidbey’s buwhich the best paintings are sold colic landscapes of open praiin both live and silent auctions. rie, bluffs, trails and beaches. Whidbey Island is home to two Soaring eagles draw the eye upannual self-guided tours of artists’ ward to an ever-changing sky. studios, one in the spring and one On the clearest days, the light in the fall. The Spring Studio Tour illuminates the nuances of the and Summer Studio Tour set for spectacular island scenery. July 16 and 17 feature artists in When clouds blow in, they Central Whidbey and the north move fast, shape-shifting and end of the Island. sending shadows scudding The islandwide Whidbey Isacross the fields of Ebey’s Prailand Open Studio Tour, set for rie. On foggy days, the jagged Oct. 8 and 9 this year, offers an horizon of evergreens fades intimate glimpse into the artists’ into a mist, intriguing the imagA local artist demonstrates his technique during an event at Greenbank world. There is no better way to ination. And on those gray days Farm. Central Whidbey is home to many artists, and their work can be see and appreciate creation than when clouds hang low in the found in local galleries and at their own home studios during several at the point of inspiration. sky, the colors of nature, with studio tours held each year. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner all the greens and punctuations The two-day tour offers an inof flower brights, glow all the timate look into the private workmore intensely. The school pairs students with some of ing spaces of nearly 100 artists in Galleries representing regionally and nathe nation’s best artists, bringing together 45 studios across the island. Guests can those who are eager to learn and those who tionally recognized artists and crafts-people meet local artists and purchase their work are eager to teach. Set in one of the most are found in Coupeville, Greenbank and directly from them in the environment along Hwy. 20 at the head of Penn Cove. beautiful locations in the world, the school’s where it was created. programs emphasize the visual arts. Artist-owned and cooperative galleries, art These tours also enable collectors to Formed as the Coupeville Arts Center shows and workshops are opportunities for browse works before they’re shipped to a visitors to converse with local artists about in 1986, today the school attracts both gallery or sold elsewhere. Many vacationstudents and professional artists seeking a their work, inspiration and techniques. And ers return home with a truly original soucreative and beautiful atmosphere. at the Pacific Northwest Art School, beginvenir. In addition to classes, the Pacific Northning and professional artists alike learn An in addition to the large, organized west Art School sponsors the annual Plein from top working artists in fiber arts, mixed tours, many of our local artists offer classes Air Painters’ U.S. Open each August. Now media, painting and photography. and workshops at their studios at various in its sixth year, the event celebrates paintThe school offers more than 100 worktimes throughout the year. ing outdoors. Painting outdoors in an imshops a year, ensuring there’s a class for The performing arts are well representpressionistic style, artist race to capture the artist who wants to learn Japanese ed on Central Whidbey, with a busy season their chosen scenes before the light and braiding as well as the artist who wants of family-friendly concerts at Coupeville weather changes. to learn how to paint boats and marinesTown Park and other venues presented by For art enthusiasts, the Plein Air Paintcapes. Concerts on the Cove.

10 The Whidbey Examiner

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

The fiber arts communities also gather at Greenbank Farm for special textile events. Whidbey Island’s Quilters on the Rock transform the big barn for their annual quilt show, and the Whidbey Weavers Guild offers handspun and hand-dyed yarns, weavings and jewelry at their annual show and sale in November. In Langley on the south end of Whidbey Island, the Whidbey Island Center for the Arts presents a full schedule of theater, concerts, dance, readings, movies and special events, such as Youth in Arts. No matter what the season, visitors stepping into historic Central Whidbey Island will be surrounded by a rich and varied art experience. Dive in and enjoy!

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July 16 & 17 - Summer Art Studio Tour, Greenbank to Deception Pass. More than 25 artists open their art studios to the public. whidbeyworkingartists.com.

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July 29 - Aug. 7 – Whidbey Island Music Festival, Greenbank Farm and St. Augustine’s in Freeland. Performances by Tekla Cunningham, violin; Ingrid Matthews, violin; Clara Rottsolk; Elisabeth Reed, viola; Byron Schenkman, harpsichord, and more. whidbeyislandmusicfestival.org. 206-724-6625. Aug. 23 - 27 – Plein Air Painter’s U.S. Open, Coupeville and Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Artists from around the country converge on Central Whidbey to paint outdoors in the plein air tradition. A gala and silent auction of paintings takes place the evening of Aug. 27. pacificnorthwestartschool.com. 360-678-3396.

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Oct. 8 & 9 – Whidbey Island Open Studio Tour. Some 100 working artists and craftspeople welcome visitors into their studios. islandartscouncil.org. 360-678-3396. Oct. 13 – Plein Air Photography Art Show & Sale, Pacific NorthWest Art School, Coupeville. Free. pacificnorthwestartschool.org. 360-678-3396.

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2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

August 27 The Whidbey Examiner 11

Fun for All Age s

A great place for active families C

entral Whidbey offers lots of things for kids to see and do. In downtown Coupeville, kids can walk out on Coupeville Wharf and check out the dozens of colorful starfish hanging out underneath the pier. In the historic building at the end of the Wharf, they can visit Rosie, Rudy and Samson – a display of the complete skeletons of a gray whale, a Dall’s porpoise and a Steller sea lion that once swam in the waters off Whidbey Island. An educational display on marine life offers an underwater video camera through which you can see the starfish and other sea life thriving beneath the wharf. And when you visit the pier when the tide is at its lowest, it’s easy to spot reefs of mussels, quirky tangles of brightly colored starfish and squirting clams. Families with older children may enjoy renting a couple of kayaks from the Harbor Store at the end of the wharf for a short paddle on the protected waters of Penn Cove. At the Island County Historical Museum, you can see the largest collection of woolly mammoth artifacts in the Puget Sound region, most of which were found in glacial deposits on Whidbey Island. Kids are especially impressed by the big tusks and teeth. The museum also is home to Whidbey Island’s first car, a 1902 Holsman with black leather seats, 48-inch wheels and a maximum speed of 25 mph. During Penn Cove MusselFest on the first weekend of March, the museum offers kids a chance to make unique mussel souvenirs and mermaid decorations. And each October, the museum hosts

12 The Whidbey Examiner

Clowns in colorful costumes show off their community spirit during Coupeville's Memorial Day parade. Central Whidbey offers lots of activities for kids, from sunny beaches and honking geese to a colorful kite festival and a swimming pool that's open to the public during the summer season. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

Mammoth Day, an annual celebration of the island’s best-known prehistoric resident. By digging for and identifying different characteristics of real mammoth bones, kids are transformed into certified amateur paleontologists. Fun, hands-on activities include making and playing “prehistoric” musical instruments in a Caveman Band. A scavenger hunt in the museum and on its grounds is lots of fun, and along the way, kids get to learn a little about mammoth life. Looking for a place for the kids to burn off some excess energy? A swingset and jungle gym can be found at Coupeville’s

Town Park, just a short walk up Coveland Street from downtown Coupeville. At Greenbank Farm, kids can watch ducks and geese on the pond next to the big red barn or run through the fields where the farm’s signature loganberries once grew. Bring a handful of carrots or an apple to feed to the friendly ponies that live in one of the fields on the hill. On Sundays from spring through fall, the farm hosts a farmers market with fresh produce and local crafts, and the annual Loganberry Festival in July always features face painting, kids’ games and an old-fashioned hayride.

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

In October, the Coupeville Farmers Market hosts its annual HarvestFest, featuring a giant-pumpkin contest, silly scarecrows, wild and crazy relay races and fun for all ages. Be sure to wander through town to check out the silly scarecrow competition! Kids also love to explore the beach at Ebey’s Landing, just south of Coupeville. Walk for miles along a pristine shoreline, looking for agates among the rocks on the beach and keeping an eye out for whales, eagles, sea lions, container ships, cruise ships, tugboats – and even an occasional submarine! Fort Casey State Park, which is close to the Keystone ferry dock, is a great place to fly a kite, explore the historic Admiralty Head lighthouse and play hide-and-seek in

the old fort structures where soldiers once kept a lookout for invading foreign forces that never came. At Seattle Pacific University’s Camp Casey Conference Center, on Engle Road not far from Fort Casey State Park, a protected outdoor swimming pool is a great place to spend a warm summer day. The broad, grassy field where Army soldiers long ago practiced military drills is now host to the annual Whidbey Island Kite Festival, held each September. A few miles north of Coupeville, the Blue Fox Drive-In is one of Washington’s few remaining outdoor cinemas. Open since 1959, the theater also offers go-carts, miniature golf and a game arcade, along with the latest movies starting at dusk.

FISH & CHIPS! Espresso, Ice Cream & Chowder

Across from the Keystone Ferry Coupeville • 360-678-5396

H E D AT VE T E

May 14 – Penn Cove Water Festival, Coupeville. Family activities, Northwest tribal canoe races, native arts and crafts and more. penncovewaterfestival.com. 360-678-5434.

ing, ground and air displays, competitions and children’s activities set against the backdrop of the Olympic Mountains and Admiralty Inlet. whidbeykites.org. 360-678-9358.

Oct. 29 – Halloween Torchlight Parade, historic downtown Coupeville. A colorful children’s costume party by torchlight (flashlight) begins at dusk. Trick-or-treating and kids’ activities follow the parade. coupevillehistoricwaterfront.com. 360-672-4227.

Aug. 13 – Whidbey Island Highland Games, Greenbank Farm. Bring the kids and check out the Whidbey Island Celtic Society’s annual celebration of all things Scottish. Enjoy pipe bands, pipers, dancers and athletic events along with sheepdog demonstrations and plenty of food and fun. wihg.org. 360-331-5437.

Sept. 17 – Mammoth Day, Island County Historical Museum, Coupeville. Learn about the days when mammoths roamed the earth, and learn about fossils found right here on Whidbey Island. Activities for kids of all ages. islandhistory.org. 360-678-3310. Sept. 24 & 25 – Whidbey Island Kite Festival. Camp Casey Conference Center, Coupeville. Colorful kites fill the sky above the parade grounds at historic Camp Casey, with kite mak2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

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patty@onwhidbey.com • 360-672-4245 The Whidbey Examiner 13

Fresh from Central Whidbey

Celebrate our wonderful farms A

successful farmer on Whidbey Island has always been one who is optimistic, entrepreneurial and able to adapt to changing market conditions and climate. In the 160-plus years since settlers first began farming on the Island, farms have gone from small to large and, it seems, back to small again as farmers continually adapt to market conditions. Rich pockets of agricultural lands on Whidbey Island carry a deep history of the evolution of farming. Salish tribes regularly burned the broad, open prairies to encourage wild camas and provide forage for game. As the early settlers arrived, they found the deep, loamy prairie topsoil and mild climate with good year ’round rainfall a welcome gift. Land that settlers claimed on Whidbey eventually produced a wheat crop that broke the record for the highest yield per acre in the entire United States. Early farms raised cattle, produced milk, grew hay, wheat, rye and oats as well as peas and potatoes. While the first farms were subsistence operations, local farmers went on to provide supplies for passing sailing ships and, later, for those headed north to seek their fortunes in Alaska. Between the 1880s and 1920s, Chinese tenant farmers were known for their impressive potato crop. Remnants of their tiny, one-room shacks can still be seen tucked away at the edges of the prairie. From the turn of the century to the 1960s, Central Whidbey was known for poultry production, and the early 1900s brought the first dairy creamery. Perfect climate conditions and the ability to grow top-quality forage crops kept dairies a mainstay of farming until the late 1990s, but changing market conditions and other 14 The Whidbey Examiner

factors led to the closure of the last dairy farm in 2007. Today, the Holstein heifers you see at local farms are being raised for farms elsewhere. The Central Whidbey agricultural scene currently includes cattle, sheep, llamas, goats, vegetable seed crops, hay, squash, lavender, potatoes, organic fruits and vegetables, flowers and even shellfish. Families can get an up-close look at our working farms during the Whidbey Island Farm Tour, held this year during the weekend of Sept. 17 and 18, 2011. It’s a chance to visit with local farmers, purchase locally grown food, fiber and farm-related products, and soak up the

friendly rural character of our beautiful island. Some of the most scenic farmland is protected as part of Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve, which encompasses the fertile prairie surrounding Coupeville. Among the most profitable crops grown by Central Whidbey farmers today are vegetable seeds such as beet and cabbage. Seeds produced on Whidbey are distributed by multinational seed companies and may be planted as food crops all over the world. Central Whidbey also is home to several farms that specialize in organic produce. Some sell their fruits and vegetables through community-supported agricul-

At Willowood Farm on Ebey's Prairie just outside Coupeville, a basket of carrots awaits delivery to one of several local restaurants that offer menus featuring fresh, local produce. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner 2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

ture, at local farmers markets or direct to local restaurants that like to “buy local.” Berries are an important crop, with strawberries available in May and June at Bell’s Farm on West Beach Road and raspberries available at Milepost 19 Farm and several other farms in July. During the growing season, local produce is available each Saturday at the Coupeville Farmers Market, located in the field behind the library, just two blocks south of the historic district and Coupeville Wharf. At Lavender Wind Farm on Darst Road west of Coupeville, you’ll find a pretty purple labyrinth in a spectacular scenic setting above the Strait of Juan de Fuca. A gift shop offers lavender gifts, as well as ice cream and other treats made with lavender essential oil. Whidbey Island is home to a few more unusual agricultural operations as well, including the largest mussel farm in the nation. Driving along scenic Madrona Way just west of Coupeville, you can see floats bobbing on the waves of Penn Cove, where the workers of Penn Cove Shellfish grow mussels from “seed.” Penn Cove mussels have emerged as one of Central Whidbey’s best-known farm products, and many local restaurants feature the small, shiny black shellfish on their menus. The mussels are delivered fresh daily to restaurants all over the region, including some of the finest restaurants in Seattle. The Central Whidbey farm scene also

includes a project aimed at encouraging native prairie plants that might otherwise disappear as open land is developed or used for more traditional farm production. At Pacific Rim Institute for Environmental Stewardship just southeast of Coupeville, volunteers save seeds from about 20 endangered prairie plants, and those seeds are used to restore the prairie environment that settlers found when they first arrived in the 1800s. Spring is a great time of year to see these rare wildflowers in bloom.

Unique Crafts • Seasonal Produce Fun for the Whole Family!

VE THE DA TE

Saturdays 10 am-2 pm April thru mid-October • 8th & Alexander coupevillefarmersmarket.com

Aug. 18-21 – Island County Fair, Langley. Bring the whole family to our old-fashioned country fair, where you’ll enjoy music, carnival games and rides, food booths and lots of animals. islandcountyfair.com. 360-221-4677. Sept. 17 & 18 – Whidbey Island Farm Tour. Free, self-guided tour of working farms all over beautiful Whidbey Island featuring locally grown food and products, farm animals and a tour of the largest mussel farm in the United States. whidbeyfarmtour.com. Oct. 8 – HarvestFest, Coupeville Farmers Market. Celebrate the end of the market season with fall produce, food, art, music, a giant pumpkin contest, wild and wacky relay races and more. coupevillefarmersmarket.com.

The most important decision you make for your pet is what you feed it.

Saturday & Sunday

September 17th & 18th X For more information visit: www.whidbeyfarmtour.com

WE’VE GOT GOOD SCENTS! Visit our farm, enjoy the view, have a picnic or take a class

Health shines from the inside out. Let us help your pet shine. Healthy Diet options including freeze-dried, dehydrated and RAW. M-F 9:30-7pm • S-S 11-5pm 105 S. Main, Coupeville • (360) 678-1601 2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

We are unique! • Labyrinth • Lavender Fields • Sunﬂowers • Gifts and Plants Open all year 10-4 Summer 10-5

www.lavenderwind.com

2530 Darst Road, Coupeville | 360.678.0919 The Whidbey Examiner 15

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Contact the Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center at 905 NW Alexander Street in the heart of Coupeville’s historic district. www.centralwhidbeychamber.com visitor@centralwhidbeychamber.com • 360-678-5434

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Towns & Cities Boat & Fuel Meerkerk Gardens

Check in with the locals

To ﬁnd out about local events and activities, use your smartphone to click on the QR code above, which takes you directly to the mobile site of The Whidbey Examiner, Whidbey Island’s only locally owned, independent newspaper. Find the paper online at whidbeyexaminer.com. To subscribe, call 360-678-8060.

A farm like no

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Connect with history amid pastoral beauty G

reenbank Farm is nestled amid 522 acres of rolling fields, quiet forest and sparkling wetlands, beckoning visitors who want to relax and enjoy Central Whidbey’s laid-back atmosphere. A former dairy farm that more recently was home to the largest loganberry farm in the world, Greenbank Farm was threatened with development in the mid-1990s, when owner Chateau Ste. Michelle made plans for a community with 700 homes. Local residents rallied, and the farm was preserved as public property that includes conservation easements that protect it from development. The landmark farm is now host to working fields, a demonstration garden maintained by the Washington State University Master Gardeners, a wildlife refuge, a cultural and community center and a place to kick back and relax. The barn and adjacent buildings that house unique shops, art galleries and a restaurant are owned and operated by the Port of Coupeville. A stop at the farm’s wine-tasting room is a distinctly Northwest experience where visitors can explore fine wines in a casual and decidedly unstuffy atmosphere. And if you’re looking for picnic supplies, be sure to stop in at Greenbank Cheese to choose from a wide variety of foods, including a number of locally made items. The farm is located at the narrowest part of Whidbey Island, and a short walk from the barns and shops to the top of the ridge provides a 180-degree panorama that features the snow-capped Olympic Mountains and the Strait of Juan de Fuca

18 The Whidbey Examiner

Children enjoy watching ducks swimming in the reflecting pond at Greenbank Farm. The former dairy farm had become the largest loganberry farm in the country before it was purchased by Whidbey Island residents and preserved for all to enjoy. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

to the west, Saratoga Passage and the volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range to the east, and a view across Holmes Harbor to Mount Rainier toward the south. The upper trails offer a place to let your dog run off-leash. In the lower fields, a training program provides aspiring farmers with an opportunity to learn about sustainable agriculture and the business of farming. Greenbank Farm still has a few rows of vines laden in late summer with the uniquely sweet, tart berries. The taste of loganberries evokes the essence of childhood summers, with memories of juice-stained fingers and pies cooling on the windowsill. For a taste of loganberry pie during your visit to the farm, stop in at Whidbey Pies Café. Greenbank Farm is home to a Sunday

market where you can buy produce grown at local farms as well as original arts and crafts and prepared foods, and is a great place to enjoy a picnic on a warm, sunny afternoon. And throughout the year, Greenbank Farm hosts a monthly First Friday on the Farm event that features art, wine, music, snacks and lively conversation. The farm also hosts several popular annual events, including the family-friendly Loganberry Festival in July, the Red Wine and Chocolate Wine Tour and Market in February, and a holiday market – complete with caroling and a tree-lighting celebration and visits with Santa – during the Christmas season. Greenbank Farm also has become a popular location for weddings, receptions and other island celebrations, with ample

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

parking for guests and a courtyard and gardens providing scenic surroundings for the historic, century-old barn that provides a center of activity.

VE THE DA TE SA

765 Wonn Rd., Greenbank on Scenic State Route 525

• Hiking • Picnic Area • Gardens • • Wildlife • Festivals & Events •

July 23 & 24 – Loganberry Festival, Greenbank Farm. A free annual wine-tasting, food, music and art extravaganza with activities for kids and a lip-smacking loganberry pieeating contest. greenbankfarm.com. 360678-7700. First Fridays at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music and more in the evening on the first Friday of each month. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Nov. 4 & 5 – Uncommon Threads: Whidbey Weavers’ Guild Show and Sale, Greenbank Farm. A community of fiber artists offers unique weaving, spinning, dyeing, basketry, felting and jewelry in the farm’s iconic red barn. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Nov. 25 - Dec. 18 – Holiday Gift Market, weekends at Greenbank Farm. Local artisans create a festive marketplace in the farm’s historic red barn. Be sure to bring the kids for a personal visit with Santa. greenbankfarm. com. 360-678-7700.

• Cheese • Crackers • • Meats • Mustards • Loganberry Jam • Chocolate • • Licorice & Local Specialties •

FREE TASTINGS!

360 - 222 - 3474

Wine Shop and Tasting Room “Tasting Daily”

Wines from over 35 Puget Sound boutique wineries and our famous Loganberry Wine!

360-678-7700 / 360-222-3151

Edible Works of Art

Espresso • Pies • Quiche • Soups • Salads & Daily Entrees • Select beers and wines available ~Pies to take home ~First Friday Dinners~

360-678-1288

GOT WHALES?

Call 1-866-ORCANET (360-672-2638)

To Report Whale Sightings www.orcanetwork.org info@orcanetwork.org

Connecting whales and people in the Pacific Northwest

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

Distinctive Art by Island Artists Fine Art Originals Cards ~ Prints ~ Gifts artworkswhidbey.com / 360-222-3010

• Sunday Farmers Market • Loganberry Festival July 23 & 24 • • First Fridays Wine & Art Walk 5–8 pm • www.greenbankfarm.com The Whidbey Examiner 19

When on Whidbey, eat as the locals do C

entral Whidbey offers some of the richest farmland in the world. Early settlers saw the potential for abundant crops, noting the gentle marine climate, rich loam and just the right amount of rainfall. Thanks to efforts by local preservationists, many farms are protected within Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Today, Central Whidbey is dotted with small farms, where a new generation cultivates a variety of crops, and raises chickens, turkeys, goats, sheep, alpacas, and cattle. While many Islanders grow their own veggies or participate in Community Supported Agriculture programs (CSAs), visitors can enjoy the bounty from local farms at Central Whidbey’s two weekend farmers markets, at farm stands in summer, and year ’round at local restaurants. Spring brings the return of a happy, healthy Whidbey Island tradition – weekend farmers markets – offering fresh, locally-grown produce, baked goods, preserves and specialty food items, plants, flowers, handcrafted soaps and lotions, arts, crafts, chef’s demonstrations and music. The Coupeville Farmers Market, held on Saturdays in the Coupeville Community Green at 8th and Alexander, opens in early April and runs until mid-October. In operation since 1979, it’s the second-oldest continually operating farmers market. From spring to fall, as the market gets under way, you’ll see foodies and local chefs scouting out fresh foods and planning menus based on what they find. Spring market days feature bedding plants, fresh greens, rhubarb, hot food and a chance to talk to local growers.

20 The Whidbey Examiner

Freshly cooked Penn Cove mussels wait to be served to shellfish aficionados during the annual Penn Cove MusselFest in March. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

Visitors can plan a sumptuous picnic from the bounty to be found at the market, choosing the best organic vegetables, berries, local meats, artisan cheeses, homemade bread, and specialty jams and preserves. At the markets, look for another specialty unique to Whidbey Island – Rockwell beans. Named for Elisha Rockwell, who grew them here around the turn of the last century, Rockwell beans are grown today by third-generation Island farmer Georgie Smith at Willowood Farm on Ebey’s Prairie. The white bean with cranberry mottling was held in such high regard by the farm wives of Ebey’s Prairie that many would save beans from the garden each year to plant in their kitchen gardens come spring. You’ll find this unique bean on the menu at some local restaurants, and you can buy a bag of dry beans at the market to use in your own recipes.

From May 1 to late September, historic Greenbank Farm hosts a Sunday Farmers Market offering fresh local produce, specialty products, cooked food, music, arts, crafts, and an idyllic setting for a picnic. Greenbank Farm has a wine shop and tasting room with local wines, including Whidbey Island Vineyards & Winery, Greenbank Cellars, Comforts of Whidbey, Blooms on Whidbey and Holmes Harbor Cellars. The signature Greenbank Farm Loganberry Wine and the unique Loganberry Dessert wine are best sellers. Wine tastings are offered daily, and don’t miss First Fridays at the Farm, when the wine shop features a different winery each month, and the Farm’s art galleries entice visitors with wines and cheeses. Once the biggest loganberry farm in the world, Greenbank Farm still grows the sweet, tart berries, and visitors can enjoy freshly baked loganberry pies among other delicacies at Whidbey Pies Café. And Greenbank Cheese & Specialties is a great place to stop for picnic supplies. Locals wait all year for sweet, juicy strawberries from Bell’s Farm. The berries can be found at farmers markets from midJune to mid-July, or arrange for u-pick at the farm on West Beach road north of Coupeville. After strawberry season fades, Milepost 19 Farm on Hwy. 20 southeast of Coupeville offers fresh and frozen raspberries as well as preserves. Lavender Wind Farm on Darst Road, off West Beach Road northwest of Coupeville, offers a variety of foods from mustards and jams to scone and cookie mixes, all made with lavender produced right there on the see Eats, page 23

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

The Whidbey Examiner 21

FINDING YOUR WAY TO COUPEVILLE AND CENTRAL WHIDBEY From Seattle, Portland and points south: From I-5 northbound, take exit 189 just south of Everett. Follow signs for the Mukilteo-Clinton ferry. Take the ferry to Clinton on Whidbey Island. Follow Hwy. 525 north through the tiny village of Greenbank and past scenic Greenbank Farm. The highway joins with Hwy. 20 just south of Coupeville. About eight miles north, a traffic light on Hwy. 20 marks the intersection with Coupeville’s Main Street. Turn right (north) and drive one-half mile into the Coupeville Historic Waterfront District.

From Mount Vernon, Bellingham, Canada and points north: From I-5 southbound, take Burlington exit 230 and follow signs to Whidbey Island on Hwy. 20. Once on Whidbey Island, follow Hwy. 20 south across the scenic Deception Pass Bridge and through Oak Harbor. About 10 miles south of Oak Harbor, a traffic light on Hwy. 20 marks the intersection with Main Street. Turn left (north) and drive a half mile into historic Coupeville. To get to Greenbank, continue south on Hwy. 20, which becomes Hwy. 525 a few miles south of Coupeville. Greenbank is about eight miles south of Coupeville.

Taking the ferry? Ferry schedules are available in Coupeville at many local businesses, including Prairie Center Red Apple Market at 408 S.

The M/V Chetzemoka is the new ferry serving on the Coupeville-Port Townsend route. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

Main St. and at the Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce at 905 N.W. Alexander St. Coupeville-Port Townsend ferry: Advance and same-day reservations are encouraged, but stand-by space is available on every crossing. There is no reservation fee. Full sailings and cancellations due to weather and tides can be expected. Reservations are required for vehicles with trailers or RVs weighing 6,000 lbs. to 80,000 lbs. at least 1 day prior to sailing. You must arrive at the terminal at Keystone Harbor at least 30 minutes before your scheduled departure or you will forfeit your reservation. Making reservations: The Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce visitor center at 905 NW Alexander St. in the heart of Coupeville’s historic district can help you make a reservation on the ferry. Reserva-

tions also may be made by phone from 7 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. Monday through Friday, or 7 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Call Washington State Ferries at 206-4646400 or 1-888-808-7977 or simply dial 511. To make a reservation online, visit www. wsdot.wa.gov/ferries. WiFi is available at several locations around Coupeville, including at many lodging establishments, at the Coupeville library at 788 N.W. Alexander St. in downtown Coupeville, and at Keystone Café, which is right next to the ferry dock at Keystone Harbor. Clinton-Mukilteo ferry: Expect delays during busy times such as when headed north to the Island on weekday afternoons and evenings, especially on Fridays. When headed south to Mukilteo, expect delays on Sunday afternoons and evenings. No reservations are available for this route. Whidbey Island also is accessible from the I-5 corridor via Hwy. 20 and Deception Pass Bridge.

Need information? The Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce visitor center has staff and volunteers ready to help you find your way around. Find the Chamber at 905 N.W. Alexander St. in the historic firehouse in downtown Coupeville, and online at www.centralwhidbeychamber.com. For information call 360-678-5434, or e-mail visitor@centralwhidbeychamber.com.

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windermerewhidbey.com 22 The Whidbey Examiner

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

Eats, from page 20 farm. The gift shop is open 7 days a week. Sherman’s Pioneer Farm produce market on Ebey Road just outside Coupeville offers fruits and vegetables, including the family’s own specialty squash and beans. Dale and Liz Sherman grow the only commercial crop of sugar Hubbard squash in the country. Edwin Sherman planted the first sugar Hubbard crops on Whidbey Island during the Depression. Each weighs about 20 pounds, keeps well, and is wonderful in pies and many other recipes Coupeville also boasts Penn Cove Shellfish, the oldest and largest mussel farm in America. Penn Cove’s unique hydrological and geographic features make it the most prolific mussel growing area in Washington. Look for the shellfish farm’s 60-foot, custom mussel harvesting barges, next to the rafts in Penn Cove west of Coupeville. Coupeville’s signature shellfish have won top honors at international taste-test competitions for their sweet flavor and fabulous texture, and are annually the star of Penn Cove MusselFest in March. MusselFest is also a great chance to learn about sustainable sea farming methods used to grow and distribute mussels, oysters and clams. Penn Cove Mussels, Manila clams and 27 varieties of Pacific oysters are available in Coupeville at Prairie Center Red Apple Market, 408 South Main St., and at Toby’s Tavern downtown on Front Street. Bon appetit! – Betty Freeman

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Ebey’s Prairie – Immerse yourself in history More than 30 years ago, local residents and committed citizens came together to protect Ebey’s Prairie from development. Their efforts made history, helping to establish our nation’s first historical reserve. The enduring pioneer spirit and vision continues to be a part of our working rural community today. Established in 1978, the 17,400-acre Reserve preserves and protects a rural community and an unbroken historical record of Pacific Northwest history, from 19th century exploration and settlement to the 21st century. The landscape is a bucolic tapestry of fields, farmhouses and wooded hills that reflects the pattern of settlement from the 1800s. The historical landscape of Ebey’s Landing appears much as it did a century ago. Historic homes, farmsteads and commercial buildings remain in their original settings. Within the fast-growing Puget Sound region, the Reserve is the last remaining place where visitors can see a broad spectrum of Northwest history still intact within a large-scale landscape. A great place to begin your visit to the Reserve is the Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce visitor Center at 905 NW Alexander St. in downtown Coupeville, where a large wall display presents the history of the area encompassed by the Reserve and a map to help you find your way around. The visitor center also has brochures on the Reserve, including one on local farms that features a map and guide to heritage barns. And beginning in summer 2011, a seasonal visitor contact station will be open at 24 The Whidbey Examiner

On a spring morning, the snow-capped Olympic Mountains provide a dramatic backdrop for historic Smith Farm on Ebey's Prairie. The farm is at the heart of Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve, the first reserve of its kind in the country. Visit the Central Whidbey Chamber of Commerce for information about historical sites and things to see and do. And don't forget to get your National Parks passport stamped so you have a record of your visit! Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

the historic Jacob Ebey House on the ridge overlooking Ebey’s Prairie. The house, which was built in the 1860s, will soon also host a display illustrating 19th-century pioneer life. Within the Reserve is one of the largest concentrations of historic architecture in the state, from pioneer blockhouses and Victorian homes to historic Coupeville storefronts. Ebey’s Landing is one of the places where Washington began. Originally cleared by the Northwest’s native Salish Indians, the fertile land – an ancient lakebed – is still used for farming today. The Reserve reaches beyond Ebey’s Prairie to include the boundary lines of the original 1850s land donation claims. Many of the roads we use today are the same roads that farmers used more than 100 years ago. Ebey’s Landing is unique in the nation.

Built in 1855, the Crockett Blockhouse provided early settlers with a measure of protection from unfriendly Native tribes. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

While the Reserve is part of the U.S. National Park System and is protected from development, it is by no means a static museum of the past. Within its borders are the thriving small town of Coupeville, neigh-

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

borhoods tucked away in the trees, and productive farmland still being worked by descendents of some of the families who first established homesteads in the prairie landscape. In 2008, the Reserve celebrated 30 years of protecting the unique historical and cultural landscape of Ebey’s Prairie. As Whidbey Island’s population continues to grow, awareness of the value of protecting this landscape is key to its continued preservation. Development rights are purchased from willing landowners who want to see their land preserved as part of the prairie’s unbroken historical record, and sustainable

Welcome to Whidbey!

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May 14 – Penn Cove Water Festival, Coupeville waterfront. Free family festival with Northwest tribal canoe races, native arts and crafts, cultural demonstrations, storytelling, dance performances, artist demonstrations, grilled salmon and other native and Northwest foods and children’s activities. Enjoy the Native Spirit Art Show at the Coupeville Recreation Hall. penncovewaterfestival.com. 360-678-5434. Aug. 23 - 27 – Plein Air Painters’ U.S. Open, Coupeville and Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Artists from around the

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building and land-use practices are encouraged as a way to limit our footprint on the land and protect our historic resources for future generations. To encourage preservation efforts, the Reserve hosts the annual Preservation Field School, which provides people with a hands-on opportunity to help preserve nationally significant historic structures for future generations. During summer 2011, field school participants will be working on the wooden water tower at the historic Kineth Farm on Smith Prairie as well as the historic Ferry House, which is located just above Ebey’s Landing.

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2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

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r e h It’s the weat

Great weather makes adventures fun T

July 15 and Aug. 15. That’s also he weather of the Puget when temperatures are warmest, Sound region has been with the average high temperadescribed as extraordinary ture at about 72 degrees. because of its mild, dry On the other hand, if you are summers and relatively looking for wind and rain, plan warm, wet winters. to visit around the ThanksgivBut Whidbey Island is ing holiday. The stretch between even more extraordinary, Nov. 15 and Dec. 8 has the best thanks to the effects of the chance for rain. But if you’re a “rain shadow” cast by the true Northwesterner, you know Olympic Mountains, which that a walk on the beach in the places most of Whidbey Iswind and rain can be exhilarating land in the driest region of – as long as you’re dressed for the Western Washington. weather. The rainfall variation The beaches and bluffs of along the 45-mile length A warm, clear day in September provides a great opportunity to enjoy the annual of Whidbey Island clearly Whidbey Island Kite Festival on the former parade grounds at Camp Casey Whidbey Island – particularly the illustrates the rain shadow Conference Center. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner west side – can get some pretty powerful winds, so be prepared effect. The southern tip of with a good windbreaker. Thanks Whidbey near Clinton is ofto the wind-chill factor, a 30 mph wind ten not in the main rain shadow, as it is too sunshine and less cloudy weather. makes the temperature feel about 10 defar south. Rainfall there is about 38 inches Another unique feature is Whidbey’s grees cooler. And you can always head over per year – similar to Everett and Seattle. fabulous summer weather. Temperatures to the east side of the island, where winds are mild throughout the year due to the A little farther north, yearly rainfall are generally lighter. moderating effects of the cool waters of totals decrease to about 32 inches at BayCoupeville temperature records since Puget Sound. In summer the water temview, 26 inches at Freeland and Green1895 provide a picture of the overall mild perature is about 55 degrees, which keeps bank, and to about 21 inches at Coupeville climate – as well as the extremes. In Januair temperatures generally below 80 deand Oak Harbor. At the northern tip of the ary, the average maximum temperature is grees and humidity at comfortable levels. island, Deception Pass State Park gets a bit 44 degrees, while the average minimum is A visit to a Whidbey Island beach on a hot more – about 24 inches. 34 degrees. July and August are very close day is refreshing. Central Whidbey is lucky. It’s in the rain in temperature with maximums averaging Central Whidbey also enjoys dry, sunny shadow “sweet spot,” enjoying one of the 72 degrees and minimums averaging 50 summers. The average monthly rainfall in driest climates in western Washington. degrees. The record high temperature is 98 Coupeville in July is 0.73 inches, with AuThe rain shadow also influences the kind of rain that falls in Central Whidbey. gust at 0.86 inches. That makes for some of degrees, and the record low is 3 degrees. Whether you spend a day on the island, the driest summers not only in the region, While other locations may be getting modan extended vacation, or the rest of your but also in the entire United States. Planerate rainfall, the Coupeville area often ning an outdoor wedding or party? Your life, you’ll enjoy Central Whidbey’s climate gets light rain or drizzle – and those showbonanza. – George Haglund best chance of perfect weather is between ers are often brief. We also get a bit more

26 The Whidbey Examiner

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

20 years of award-winning excellence and innovation Saturdays through the second weekend in October – Coupeville Farmers Market. Fresh produce, herbs, flowers, crafts, hot foods and baked goods. coupevillefarmersmarket.com. Sundays through the first weekend in October – Sunday Market, Greenbank Farm. Organic produce, honey, food and arts and crafts of all kinds. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7710. May 7 – Picnic on the Prairie, Pacific Rim Institute for Environmental Stewardship, 180 Parker Road, Coupeville. Enjoy a day on Smith Prairie and learn about local wildflowers and wildlife as well as the prairie restoration, research and stewardship work being done by this local non-profit organization. pacificriminstitute.org. 360-678-5586 May 8 – Mother’s Day Concert, Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, Greenbank. meerkerkgardens. org. 360-678-1912. May 14 – Penn Cove Water Festival, Coupeville waterfront. Free family festival with Northwest tribal canoe races, native arts and crafts, cultural demonstrations, storytelling, dance performances, artist demonstrations, grilled salmon and other native and Northwest foods and children’s activities. Enjoy the

Native Spirit Art Show at the Coupeville Recreation Hall. penncovewaterfestival.com. 360-678-5434. May 14 & 15 – Meerkerk Magic, Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, Greenbank. Enjoy the garden in peak bloom and shop for rhododendrons in the garden center. Children of all ages enjoy making forest fairies from woodland materials. meerkerkgardens. org. 360-678-1912.

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May 21 – Day of Wine and Rhodies, Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, Greenbank. Tours, wine tasting and a silent auction in the gardens. meerkerkgardens.org. 360-678-1912. May 21 & 22 – Spring Wine-Tasting and Farmers Market, Greenbank Farm. Painters, photographers, winemakers, handcrafters, growers and producers bring the creativity of Whidbey and the region to this market. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. May 28 – Memorial Day Parade & Remembrance Ceremony, historic downtown Coupeville. A quintessential small-town parade honoring America’s veterans with music, food and celebration. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434. see Calendar, page 28

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on the Cove. concertsonthecove.org. 360-678-6821.

May 28 – Late Night Shopping, historic downtown Coupeville. Enjoy refreshments as you wander the galleries and shops late into the evening. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434.

July 16 & 17 – Summer Art Studio Tour, Greenbank to Deception Pass. More than 25 artists open their studios to the public. whidbeyworkingartists.com. July 17-22 – Whidbey Island Race Week. Whether you’re a sailor or you just enjoy watching the action from the Coupeville Wharf, you’ll enjoy these sailboat races from Oak Harbor to Coupeville on the scenic waters of Penn Cove. whidbeyislandraceweek.com.

June 3 – First Friday at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. June 25 – Strawberry Social, Coupeville United Methodist Church. An honest-to-goodness oldtime social featuring waffles, shortcake or sundaes made with fresh strawberries from Bell’s Farm near Coupeville. 360-678-4256.

July 23 & 24 – Loganberry Festival, Greenbank Farm. A free annual wine-tasting, food, music and art extravaganza with activities for kids and a lipsmacking loganberry pie-eating contest. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700.

June 25 & 26 - Spirit of the Northwest Art Show and benefit for the Whidbey General Hospital Foundation, Coupeville Recreation Hall. A juried art event featuring top regional artists. whidbeyartshows.com

July 1 – First Friday at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. July 2 & 3 – World’s Biggest Garage Sale, Coupeville Elementary School. Get there early for the adrenaline rush when the starting gun blasts. coupevillelions.org. 360-678-4105. July 9 – Summer Swing Dance, Crockett Barn, Coupeville. Enjoy music from the seven-piece Uptown Lowdown Jazz Band. Sponsored by Concerts

Aug. 5 – First Friday at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. These handcrafted paddles are used by dancers from the Tsimshian Tribe when they perform at the Penn Cove Water Festival, held in May each year in historic Coupeville. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

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Aug. 12 - 14 – Coupeville Arts & Crafts Festival, historic downtown Coupeville. Artists and craftspeople fill the streets for this community celebration, held annually since 1964. The tall ships Lady Washington and Hawaiian Chieftain will visit Coupeville Wharf and stage an exciting battle sail on Penn Cove. coupevilleartsandcraftsfestival.org. 360-678-5116. Aug. 13 – Whidbey Island Highland Games, Greenbank Farm. Bring the kids and check out the Whidbey Island Celtic Society’s annual celebration of all things Scottish. Enjoy pipe bands, pipers, dancers and athletic events along with sheepdog demonstrations and plenty of food and fun. wihg. org. 360-331-5437. Aug. 18-21 – Island County Fair, Langley. Bring the whole family to our old-fashioned country fair, where you’ll enjoy music, carnival games and rides, food booths and lots of animals. islandcountyfair.com. 360-221-4677. Aug. 21 – Wag & Walk, Greenbank Farm. Bring your four-legged, tail-wagging best friend for an afternoon festival celebrating all things canine. Benesee Calendar, page 29

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

Calendar, from page 28 fits the Whidbey Animals’ Improvement Foundation. wagnwalk.org. 360-678-7700.

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Aug. 23 - 27 – Plein Air Painter’s U.S. Open, Coupeville and Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve. Artists from around the country converge on Central Whidbey to paint outdoors in the plein air tradition. A gala and silent auction of paintings takes place the evening of Aug. 27. pacificnorthwestartschool.com. 360-678-3396. Aug. 27 & 28 – Whidbey Island Regional Art Exhibit, Coupeville Recreation Hall. Enjoy art created by a wide range of talented local artists. A benefit for the Whidbey Animals’ Improvement Foundation animal shelter. whidbeyartshows.com. 360-678-3068. Sept. 2 – First Friday at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Sept. 3 – Late Night Shopping, historic downtown Coupeville. Enjoy refreshments as you wander galleries and shops late into the evening. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434.

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Sept. 3 & 4 – Antiques and Collectibles Show & Sale, Greenbank Farm. Furnishings, linens, silver, collectibles, books, trunks and more from 18 dealers. 360-679-1540.

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Calendar, from page 29 Sept. 17 – Mammoth Day, Island County Historical Museum, Coupeville. Learn about the days when mammoths roamed the earth, and learn about fossils found right here on Whidbey Island. Activities for kids of all ages. islandhistory.org. 360-678-3310. Sept. 17 & 18 – Whidbey Island Farm Tour. Free, self-guided tour of working farms all over beautiful Whidbey Island featuring locally grown food and products, farm animals and a tour of the largest mussel farm in the United States. whidbeyfarmtour.com. Sept. 24 – Tour de Whidbey, Coupeville. This an-

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nual bicycle event to raise money for the Whidbey General Hospital Foundation attracts cyclists from throughout the region for 10-, 40-, 50- and 100-mile routes. whidbeygen.org. 360-678-7656, ext. 4020.

ville High School campus. Join the locals at this annual showcase of products, services and foods from Whidbey Island. islandcountyeconomicdevelopmentcouncil.net. 360-678-6889.

Sept. 24 & 25 – Whidbey Island Kite Festival. Camp Casey Conference Center, Coupeville. Colorful kites fill the sky in the parade grounds at historic Camp Casey, with kite making, ground and air displays, competitions and children’s activities set against the backdrop of the Olympic Mountains and Admiralty Inlet. whidbeykites.org. 360-678-9358.

Oct. 13 – Plein Air Photography Art Show & Sale, Pacific NorthWest Art School, Coupeville. Free. pacificnorthwestartschool.org. 360-678-3396.

October – Scarecrow Corridor, Coupeville. Vote for your favorite scarecrow on display all month in front of homes and businesses throughout historic Coupeville. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434. Oct. 1 & 2 – Fall Plant Sale, Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, Greenbank. Buy all sorts of lovely rhododendrons and more. meerkerkgardens.org. 360-678-1912. Oct. 8 – HarvestFest, Coupeville Farmers Market. Celebrate the end of the market season with fall produce, food, art, music, a giant pumpkin contest, wild and wacky relay races and more. coupevillefarmersmarket.com. Oct. 8 & 9 – Whidbey Island Open Studio Tour. Some 100 working artists and craftspeople welcome visitors into their studios. islandartscouncil.org. 360678-3396. Oct. 8 & 9 – Uniquely Whidbey Biz Expo, Coupe-

Tribal Canoe Races Music, Dancers, Food Storytelling Native Arts & Crafts Children’s Activities

Oct. 23 – Coupeville Lodging Open House, historic Coupeville. From Victorian bed-and-breakfasts and old-time farm homes to quaint beach cabins and modern waterfront homes, our local lodging establishments open their doors for visitors. coupevillelodging.com. 360-678-5581. Oct. 29 – Coupeville Halloween Torchlight Parade. A colorful children’s costume party by torchlight (flashlight) begins at dusk. Trick-or-treating and kids’ activities follow the parade. coupevillehistoricwaterfront.com. 360-672-4227. Oct. 29 – Halloween Party & Costume Parade, Greenbank Farm. A day on the farm with pumpkin carving, kettle corn, cider, apples, arts and crafts and more. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Nov. 4 – First Friday at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Nov. 4 & 5 – Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve Celebration & Conference, Coupeville. see Calendar, page 32

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360-678-3451 PennCoveWaterFestival.com 30 The Whidbey Examiner

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2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

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spinnakertea.com 360.678.4481

TOWN

THE INN AT PENN COVE Near the historic waterfront, the historic Jacob Jenne House (1889) offers 3 distinctive guest rooms. Next door, Wisteria Cottage has room for 4 and small kitchen. WiFi available; Thai restaurant on site.

TOWN / WATERVIEW

QUIET WOODLAND

TOWN / EBEY’S PRAIRIE

mysite.verizon.net/penncovebb 360-632-6316

COMPASS ROSE BED & BREAKFAST 1890 Victorian with two lovely guest rooms with private baths. Full, elegant breakfast amidst antiques and treasures. Tea in the afternoon. Well-behaved children welcome. compassrosebandb.com 360.678.5318 / 800.237.3881

GUEST HOUSE LOG COT TAGES A couples romantic retreat with six cottages nestled in 25 acres of wooded seclusion. All cottages include a fireplace, kitchen, Jacuzzi & selfserve breakfast. Outdoor hot tub & pool. guesthouselogcottages.com stay@guesthouselogcottages.com 360-678-3115 / 800-997-3115

COUPEVILLE FIREHOUSE INN The historic FIrehouse is located in old town Coupeville 1⁄2 block from Penn Cove/wharf. From its balcony you have beautiful mountain/ water views. This romantic one bedroom inn has a living area, dining area, kitchen & private bath. www.coupevillefirehouseinn.com 360-678-2184

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

TOWN / WATERVIEW TOWN / WATERVIEW

SPINNAKER TEA GARDEN

TOWN / WATERFRONT

fortcaseyinn.com 866.661.6604

NEAR WATERFRONT

Relive the past with charm and comfort in our two large Victorian duplexes. Sweeping view of Admiralty Inlet. Walk to the beach, Fort Casey State Park and the Port Townsend ferry.

TOWN / WATERVIEW

FORT CASEY INN

TOWN / WATERVIEW

RURAL / WATER VIEW

While visiting Whidbey Island, stay at one of our outstanding Bed & Breakfasts, Inns, Cottages or Cabins. ANCHORAGE INN BED & BREAKFAST A new Victorian-style B&B just steps from the historic waterfront, featuring seven well-appointed rooms with private baths. Full gourmet breakfast. anchorage-inn.com crowsnest@anchorage-inn.com 360.678.5581 / 877.230.1313

THE BLUE GOOSE INN B & B Voted Best in the West 2009-2010. We do it right! Relax and rejuvenate in our huge rooms with water views & private baths. Enjoy scrumptious breakfasts & afternoon receptions. Free WiFi, walk to waterfront and dining. bluegooseinn.com stay@bluegooseinn.com 360-678-4284 / 877-678-4284

COUPE DE VILLA B & B Walk to historic Front Street from this beautifully appointed suite-with-a-view. Private entrance & patio, kitchenette and WiFi. View of Penn Cove from the deck. One-of-a-kind setting. coupedevillabandb.com mauryc@whidbey.net 360-678-4686

COLBURN HOUSE Two newly renovated units 1.5 blocks from historic waterfront, next to park. One BR, 1 bath unit and 2 BR, 2 bath unit, both with fireplace and full kitchen, breakfast and laundry facility. Great view in 2-bedroom unit! coupevillevacation.com onisland@whidbey.net 360-678-6668 / 800-247-6162

GARDEN ISLE COTTAGES/VACATION HOME Lovely private garden cottages. Newly remodeled with hot tub & a spacious 3-bedroom view home nestled in historic old town Coupeville. Adjacent to park, beach, shops and restaurants. gardenisle@coupevile.net gardenislecottages.com 360-678-5641

LOVEJOY INN & CARRIAGE HOUSE COTTAGE Enjoy coastal living in relaxed Whidbey style. Private baths and family-friendly. Views of Penn Cove and Coupeville Wharf. Just steps to waterfront, dining, shopping and parks. Nice breakfast included. thelovejoyinn.com relax@thelovejoyinn.com 360-678-1204

The Whidbey Examiner 31

Calendar, from page 30 Bring the family for a weekend of hands-on farming and historic preservation workshops, a barn dance and the biggest community potluck ever. nps.gov/ ebla. 360-678-5787. Nov. 4 & 5 – Uncommon Threads: Whidbey Weavers’ Guild Show and Sale, Greenbank Farm. A community of fiber artists offers unique weaving, spinning, dyeing, basketry, felting and jewelry. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Nov. 25 - Dec. 18 – Holiday Gift Market, weekends at Greenbank Farm. Local artisans create a festive marketplace in the farm’s historic red barn. Be sure to bring the kids for a personal visit with Santa. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Nov. 25 - Dec. 31 – Holiday Gift Shop at Admiralty Head Lighthouse, Fort Casey State Park. Open weekends. admiraltyhead.wsu.edu. 360-240-5584. Nov. 26 - Jan. 2 – Holiday Display, Island County Historical Museum, Coupeville. The museum brings Central Whidbey’s history alive with a Victorian Christmas parlor exhibit. islandhistory.org. 360-678-3310. Dec. 2 –Holiday Concert, Coupeville. A Celtic yule-

tide concert featuring the Magical Strings performing with Irish instruments, step dancing and vocals. Sponsored by Concerts on the Cove. concertsonthecove.org. 360-678-6821. Dec. 2 – First Friday at the Farm, Greenbank Farm. Wine and cheese tasting, art, music. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. Dec. 3 – Jingle Trail Run and Walk, Fort Ebey State Park, Coupeville. 5k run and 1-mile walk through pretty forest trails. centralwhidbeychamber. com. 360-678-5434. Dec. 3 – The Greening of Coupeville and annual Holiday Parade, historic Coupeville. Stake out your spot along Main Street or Front Street to watch an old-fashioned holiday parade led by Santa Claus aboard a decorated fire truck. Tree-lighting and holiday caroling follow. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434. Dec. 18 - Red Ticket $1,000 Drawing, historic downtown Coupeville. Shop, dine and stay with participating merchants and earn red tickets that are entered into a drawing for $1,000 cash. The drawing is held Dec. 18 on the front steps of the Island County Historical Museum, and you must be present to win. coupevillehistoricwaterfront.com. 360-678-5434.

Plan ahead for 2012 Feb 4 – Sound Waters, Coupeville High School campus. A fascinating one-day “university” with classes on marine life, plants and wildlife of Whidbey Island. beachwatchers.wsu.edu/island/soundwaters. 360-679-7327. Feb. 11 - 12 – Red Wine & Chocolate, Greenbank Farm. Celebrate the flavors of red wine and handcrafted chocolates at this romantic Valentine’s Day celebration. greenbankfarm.com. 360-678-7700. March 3 - 4 – Penn Cove MusselFest, Coupeville. Celebrate Penn Cove’s signature shellfish with chowder tasting, a mussel-eating contest and more. thepenncovemusselfestival.com. 360-678-5434. May 12 – Penn Cove Water Festival, Coupeville. penncovewaterfestival.com. May 13 – Mother’s Day Concert, Meerkerk Rhododendron Gardens, Greenbank. Enjoy relaxing live music in a serene woodland garden setting. meerkerkgardens.org. 360-678-1912. May 26 – Memorial Day Parade & Remembrance Ceremony, historic downtown Coupeville. centralwhidbeychamber.com. 360-678-5434. The action on the water can turn into a mad scramble for racers taking part in Whidbey Island Race Week, which fills Penn Cove with billowing sails each year in late July. Photo: The Whidbey Examiner

n Use your smartphone to catch up on Whidbey Island news and happenings throughout the year. 32 The Whidbey Examiner

2011 Coupeville & Central Whidbey Island Visitor Guide

S. Main St.

School

Prairie Center Red Apple Market

Ferry 4 miles

Step back in time to the good ol’ days at Coupeville’s hometown bowling alley! • Parties • Downtown Coupeville • Award-Winning Mussel Chowder • • Pizza, Burgers, Beer & More • Greenbank Clinton • Pac-Man, Pinball & Other Great Arcade Games Terry St.

School

N. Main St.

Old-Fashioned Fun For the Whole Family!

EBEY BOWL & DINER

Fun for All Ages!

EBEY BOWL & DINER 360-678-2255 1203 W. Terry Rd., Coupeville www.ebeybowl.com

The quality care and highly trained staff of a big medical center. Right here on Whidbey Island.

Mary Leah Oman, M.D., is Board Certified in General Surgery and a member of the American College of Surgeons and the American Society of Breast Surgeons.

“I chose to practice at Whidbey General Hospital because of its talented, caring staff, the breadth and depth of services offered, and the fact that I can offer the kind of personal care that every patient deserves.”

Physician referral services available 101 N. Main St., Coupeville, WA 98239 • www.whidbeygen.org • 360-678-5151 • 360-321-5151