Catherine Lesmana V2

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A/W 2021

“ ... a

q u i r k y

j o u r n e y

t o

f i n d

o n e s e l f .”

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“Life is a constant struggle between being an individual and being a member of a community.”

- The Absolutely True Diary of Part-Time Indian by Sherman Alexie As a part of people, many would relate to this statement. We can say “this is the real me”, proclaim our “true self” and still resonate differently to different people, be it to fit in to their expectations or simply to maintain amity. However, it is not rare that this has became an extra chore, even a burden to many.

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UN;PRETEND’s concept revolves aeound the idea of sincerity. We believe that as a human, we tend to be a mix of characteristics, constantly changing and adapting.

Narrating a journey to self discovery, ‘UN;PRETEND’ was inspired by the ongoing phase of navigating and building oneself; transposing intrapersonal growth into fashion. UN;PRETEND’s concept revolves around the idea of sincerity and acknowledging that people tend to be a mix of characteristics, constantly changing and adapting. The color palette is designed to suit the evolving mood for each garmentsof nostalgic grey mauve, aloof shades of grey and airy sky blue. The garments are diversely designed in terms of historical and cultural inspiration as well as componenets, leaving space for androgyny styling. Sustainable materials are key components of ‘UN;PRETEND’ collection.

Target & Market Placement

UN;PRETEND’s market placement is positioned

between High End and Luxury fashion sectors. Key market for this collection is the Eastern Northern hemisphere, especially Japan and South Korea, as well as New York City.

This collection would be envisioned sitting alongside brands like Song for The Mute, Acne Studios and Bodysong.

UN;PRETEND’s typical consumer is 20-35 years old

person, gender stereotype breaker urban fashionista.

They are environmentally conscious millenials and Gen Z customers who carries the future, celebrities and influencers with principles and social conscience.

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[A N

A L T E R E D

C H A M B E R]

Like the color of the garments themselves, depicting unrealistic fade into the atmosphere.

Nostalgic

mauve

ourselves

as

ourselves

from

the

that day

what

we

brings comes have

comfort to

an

been

and

end,

through

to

familiarity recover

when

the

to and

sun

accept reconcile

was

high.

“ A n unjudging, e m p t y space to look back into our day as we ease into the sunset and darkening h o r i z o n .”

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“DAYDREAM DOWNPOUR” The

luxury

of

finding

comfort in the pleasant trickle of rain, devouring the

gap

in

time

in

between the rain ending and ribbons of sunlight gently piercing through.

[A

G A P

I N

T I M E]

Like the visual of the garments themselves, depicting space and gap between multiple individuals,

namely

garments. To

be

the space

body

and

where

reality

the is

altered - the space for us to walk out of ourselves into the persona we crafted, and prepared,

for

the

forthcoming

occasion.

“An unjudging, empty space to take breather as we ease into the armor of the day.”

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Understanding the

case.

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“ . . N E V E R M I N D . ” There are times when we wish to withdraw To collect ourselves, putting together out scattered selves Under soothing moonlight, away from prying eyes

“S o m e t h i n g s a r e j u s t t h e w a y i t i s.”

Delicate and intimate process The kind where no one else is watching, only then hesitation vanishes Our vision pellucid and we find ourselves.

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Melbourne Fashion Week Student Runway, 2021.11.19

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T E X T U R E This body, particularly the vest, showcases varying texture on the surface.

Assertive edges of raw cuts, ridges connecting shards of prints collated on subtle lumps of mellow wool.

It is designed to mirror that of a human’s features, inside and out.

Of rough scars, empathy, and impulsive mind.

M e a n w h i l e , stable coal of the trousers balances its chaotic alter ego of the body, providing reliable foundation below pandemonium. The anchor of our mind that keeps us grounded to the earth below our pads of feet.

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of S E N T I M E N T P L A T E A U Original print that was a render of abstract checks, a piece that reflects a human’s complicated, messy yet patterned emotions.

The asymmetry print on the body is traceable to the generous scale of the print itself as a pattern - representing us human are small parts of the world, individual and unique in their own rights but when joined together, forming a connected pattern of a big picture.

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T U R M O I L of O R D E R Chaos within order, is what this body narrates through its visuals.

Structured silhouette of the body represents minimalist order and clean-cut design.

Meanwhile, its patches of prints represent chaos and utter disorder.

T

E

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Like parts of a broken mirror, this body depicts the shards of unbound emotions, stark contrast against the clean smooth silhouette they rest upon. as opposed to clean edges of the patches, Ovelocked edges is shown as to express complexity and tangled strings, much like intertwining pent up vehemence that humans are no strangers too.

As opposed to the ravelled up intricate details, the base garments depict clean and organized front that we often put up to represent ourselves in our daily lives, be it during work or even interaction to our loved ones.

At the end of the day, it’s human for us all to put up a front to cover up the broken parts of ourselves - be it to protect the ones we love and care about, or as a defense against cruel reality and its ruthless henchmen.

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F A B R I C A T I O N . j p g We believe that as designers, we are responsible for the impact that we make in the environment, no matter how small.

UN;PRETEND’s fabrication consists of merino wool and natural fibre wovens with original prints for each bodies.

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‘Daydream Workshop’

‘Cerulean Departure’

Quarantine-borne drawn print, inspired by the silhouettes in the apartment overlapping each other when sunlight hits the scene. A dreamy grey mauve gives the feeling of altered reality.

Inspired by the pleasant trickle of rain, a gap in time in between the rain ending and ribbons of sunlight gently piercing through.

‘Abstract Heritage’

‘Nevermind’

A self-rendered pattern made by brush strokes, with tonal contrast color palette assembled to form an asymmetrical image on the body.

The print that got featured into Melbourne Fashion Week Student Runway 2021, inspired by the prospect of understanding that does not always come into equation. The text in print suggests the expression of “nevermind” in Japanese.

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REFERENCES Image: Torkwase Dyson, Study for “Bird and Lava,” 2020 © Torkwase Dyson https://www.instagram.com/p/CKwdpOuHfMM/ Image: Birgitta de Vos, “All in Nothing | Nothing in All” https://www.instagram.com/p/CMjMjXal6Eq/ Image: Birgitta de Vod, “Encountering the shadow and embracing the light” https://www.instagram.com/p/CMgkmvQlV1b/

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