Ettienne SCHOBER V2

RE-PURPOSING:

This means taking an item and giving it a new or different purpose. With clothes this means that instead of throwing an item away because it is worn, out of fashion or simply out of favor, they are turned into something desirable and useful.

This collection is inspired by a cleaner, more sustainable fashion industry. To re-use and re-purpose old materials to create ‘new’ clothing.

How have traditional under-garments shaped the contemporary, feminine styles that we see today?

‘Under worn out’, a trans-seasonal capsule collection, delves into the finer details of historic garments and how they can be carried on through a rejuvenated and progressive perspective. What were once hidden garments, are translated into a modernised and subversive collection in an attempt to reappropriate a corset for example, which is a traditionally oppressive garment. This collection consistently employs contrast and asymmetry, more specifically the juxta position between hard and soft and how they can unite seamlessly into singular garments. The refreshing use of white is harmonious through each piece and creates space for flex ibility for the wearer. A collection that truly celebrates and redefines the ways undergar ments are worn and represented in society.

Each look includes a modernised version of hook and eyes, in which piece is hand made from recycled metals. Majority of the lace is also ‘up-cycled’ from old wedding dresses.In doing so, ultimately contribut ing to a slow and ethical design process, where old garments pave the way for new ones, further promoting a sustainable future in design. This colection features colours in order to restrain from over-powering the de tailed design and aspects of the garments. This collection also features juxtaposing fabrications, for example each body inlcludes a thick drill , contrasted with the soft and deli cate lace. As well as a beautiful and detailed pleated cotton that falls delicately onto the curves of the body. Each body also utilises a poly-mesh in some way to create flexibility and comfort for each garment. All differing fabrica tions that come together to create a unified body.

This collection is progressive and inclusive, fierce and delicate all at the same time. A col lection truly made for empowering others and creating community whilst paying ode to its ori gins and the women who led us to where we are.

UNDER WORN OUT 2023

Off-white SS 22 Our Legacy

Raeburn SS 22 The Garment SS 22 Love Child SS 22 Soulland SS 22 Stine Goya

WHITE

ROW 1 Saint Luarent 22, Alexander M FF 22, No Sesso SS 22, Miu Miu FF 22

ROW 2 Balmain SS 22, Yuhan Wang SS 22, The Garment SS 22, Redeem SS 22

ROW 3 Loewe FF 22, Noir kei ninomyia SS 22, Vivienne W SS 22, Loewe FF 22

PLACEMENT

TARGET

Under worn out is a collection for confident, sensual and unique women. It is for those who are strong and bold enough to blur the lines that were once drawn, to create and progress within their individual clothing choices. Under worn out empha sises the process of femininity and values the individual taste of its consumers. Such wearers care for staple pieces, they can wear continuously in a conscious effort to reduce their en vironmental footprint. Customers in our target market prefer a personalised shopping experience and buy original and unique pieces in order to stand out and go against the grain. Although she has a modernised sense of taste both in her style and personal ethics, she understands and appreciates the origins in which each design has been inspired and will inspire in the future.

She cares for her own sexuality and expression and does so through fearless and bold clothing choices. This woman aims to reappropriate the traditional context of each design detail to make it her own through a rejuvinated perspective and modern outlook on the future.This collection targets consumers who enjoy and appreciate the process of design and production and look for sustainable and ethically made garments that will live on for generations, much like this collection and its values to the fashion industry.

Tina Makris is the creator of an inspirational small business that specialises in producing unique and modern jewellery out of recycled metals in Melbourne. Together, Tina and I have been working closely over the past couple of months to create the interesting and exclusive hook and eye’s featured throughout the garments in this collection. These pieces are derived from the historic use of fastenings in undergarments from the late 1800’s.

The process started with a few sketches and inspiration photos, where Tina then sampled many shapes and sizes over many hours using a special mouldable wax that can be bent and manoeuvred into different shapes. These pieces were then sent to the casting house in Melbourne (the only house to use recycled metal), where these wax shape came to life.

Each piece was created and sent separately as two pieces in one set. We changed the shapes and sizes in order to fit the vision throughout the sampling process (and for practicality) until finally we chose which ones and how many sets we were going to use on the final garments. The total being 80 pieces (40 sets all together). These pieces then arrived back, and Tina began the process of polishing each, individual piece as well as adding texture and shine using various tools.

Once the polishing process was complete, I carefully measured the pieces onto the garments and began to handsew each set. The pieces have tiny holes on either side to imitate an hook and eye where I was able to sew through and onto the garment.

As shown throughout the folio, the process to create and produce these unique hook and eyes was intricate and timely. These hook and eyes are an imperative part of this collections design and emphasise the originality of the design. Whilst of course, paying ode to the history of hook and eyes throughout the 1800’s. The amazing Tina Makris was able to bring my vision to life and help to create this collection.

THREE PIECES

and recycled lace.

cycled shirts, 100% cotton pleats

Made with 100% cotton drill, re

IDA DRESS

ADELAIDE BLOOMERS

Made from high quality poly mesh and cotton pleated frills.

THREE PIECES

lu-mesh.

ed cotton, and high quality po -

Made 100% cotton drill, pleat

AGNES DRESS

MINNIE PANTS

Made from 100% cotton pleated fabric.

TWO PIECES

poly mesh.

recycled shirting and high-quality

Made from 100% cotton drill,

ROSE CORSET

NORA PANT/SKIRT

Made from 100% cottondrill, pleated cotton fabric and recycled lace.

REFERENCES

https://www.artsthread.com

https://www.rosamosario.com/blogs/media-coverage/w https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/563864815855346690/ https://www.rosamosario.com/blogs/media-coverage/w http://www.designfriends.lu/en/events/details/event/harhttps://www.vogue.com/vogueworld/article/fka-twigs-viviwood-corset-the-wallace-collection-cellogarden-stylist?epik=d- j0yJnU9OHpISGtvQUVSR3dSSGJBTW5GYjF2c1dPWUtzOVIzWksmcD0wJm49UTFlMmp0TkVOQVRJNWl0PUFBQUFBR0tMZmtV https://wamnt.tumblr.com/post/634459571860193280

CREDITS

DESIGN: Ettienne Schober

STYLING: Ettienne Schober

PRODUCTION: Ettienne Schober

PHOTOGRAPHY: Lily Pearce Celeste & Gigi Parkin Cinnamon Kingsland

REFERENCES

https://www.artsthread.com

https://www.rosamosario.com/blogs/media-coverage/w https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/563864815855346690/ https://www.rosamosario.com/blogs/media-coverage/w http://www.designfriends.lu/en/events/details/event/har- ri-peccinotti/ https://www.vogue.com/vogueworld/article/fka-twigs-vivi- enne-west wood-corset-the-wallace-collection-cello- phane-matthew-josephs-avantj0yJnU9OHpISGtvQUVSR3dSSGJBTW5GYjF2c1dPWUtzOVIzWksmcD0wJm49UTFlMmp0TkVOQVRJNWl- 0WTZMb0dFZyZ 0PUFBQUFBR0tMZmtV https://wamnt.tumblr.com/post/634459571860193280

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