Want to wander with me?
Autumn/Winter 23
Zali Drew Menswear
Want to wander with me?
Autumn/Winter 23
Zali Drew Menswear
HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE HARDWARE Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory Name: Recyc. caps Source: Community Quantity: 100 million Manufacture: Factory
The world of the elite; to be seen and not be seen all at the same time. To want the photos taken of you but not want the flashing lights. To understand this mindset of the elite, Dr. Jonason studied these people and created a concept which he referred to as the ‘Dark Triad’ (Kaufman, 2010.). The triad of dark traits consist of machiavellianism, sub clinical narcissism and sub clinical psychopathy. Although these all seem like terrible traits to have Dr Jonason discovered people high in these three dark traits are high on self esteem and openness and low on levels of anxiety and contentiousness. These traits have been referred to as the James Bond Psyche; and inhibit many of the most elite and successful in any society. These people were also high in levels of competitiveness and individuality but weren’t easily happy for other people (altruistic) or pro social (behaviour that helps others).
Combined with the idea of power dressing, this completes the mentality of the elite. Studies have shown wearing a suit promotes more ‘abstract processing’ capeability as opposed to ‘concrete processing’ and that wearing a suit everyday does not diminish that feeling of power we feel when wearing a suit. (Brown & Arpel, 2015.)
By further breaking down the idea of powerdressing and promoting it as “learning to present yourself in the most dramatic way,” (Little, 2012.) the collection titled Want to wander with me? was created. Not only are the pieces statements individually, but they would also likely appeal to someone high in the Dark Triad of traits for their obnoxious visibility. These pieces are bought to be seen in, not to be camped in, danced in, or skied in.
The designs created for Want to wander with me? are created from the idea that more is more. Opulence meant; more hardware, more patterns, more design lines, more fabrics and overexpressing the strong themes within the designs such as strength in shape, athleticism and architectural design. The clashing archetypes of sports-wear and power-dressing ARE evident through the sporty, practical design of garments within the collection. Made from a clash of technical and non-conventional fabrics this collection juxtaposes the elements of tailoring through the shape of the garments as well as the the check fabric motif.
The garments within the collection also feature hallmarks of early sports-wear with some of the garments being made primarily from wool as it is naturally water repellant and will mold to the body with wear for a more comfortable fit. Elements of tailoring are easily recognisable in the ski body jacket as well as the kilt from the camp body and the figurative epaulettes in the royal body.
Each body within the collection features an analogous colour palette with a contrast colour and an accent. Due to the eclectic nature of the collection, some of the fabrics have been used across multiple looks to add an element of harmony across the bodies.
Want to wander with me?
Powerdressing
Power Powerdressing vs. camp TheDarkTriad Pantone #0b4587 R11 G69 B135 Pantone #70632a R112 G99 B42 Pantone #799d50 R121 G157 B80 Pantone #cdc4a9 R206 G196 B169 Pantone #f4cd09 R244 G205 B9 Pantone #f46f10 R224 G111 B16 Pantone #ba2002 R186 G32 B2
Camp Red Colourway Skirts on Men Junya Watanabe Spring MW ‘23 Louis Vuitton Spring MW ‘23 Kidsuper Spring MW ‘23 JW Anderson Spring MW ‘23 Craig Green Spring MW ‘23 Dries Van Noten Spring MW ‘23 JW Anderson Spring MW ‘23 Craig Green Spring MW ‘23 Kenzo Spring MW ‘23 Thom Browne Spring MW ‘23 Thom Browne Spring MW ‘23 Stella McCartney Spring ‘23 Craig Green Spring MW ‘23 Dries Van Noten Spring MW ‘23
t rend Clashing Prints Big Coats Stella McCartney Spring ‘23 Kidsuper Spring ‘23 Kenzo Spring MW ‘23 Dries Van Noten Spring MW ‘23 Louis Vuitton Spring MW ‘23 Stella McCartney Spring ‘23 Louis Vuitton Spring MW ‘23 Dior Spring MW ‘23 Dries Van Noten Spring MW ‘23 Craig Green Spring MW ‘23 Kidsuper Spring MW ‘23
Body 1
the camper
initial mock up to see fabric look
The Flower was completely changed between inital toile and the final
Puffer
The
Development
Puffer sample process of print development for tartan painting of bottle caps
the royal
Body 2
the royal
initial idea from the knight chess piece turned functional handbag
viscose and buckram for main body
Stella mccartney deadstock fur for mane
Size representation size in cardboard
mane added to give the overall look had the addition of a foam base into the bag for structure Toile on body
t he jarro D bag
final fabric in production stages
Body 3
the
prep
4
Body
Body 5
Want to wander with me is a collection of pieces styled together for editorial to create eclectic campy bodies. The garments within this collection can also be ‘styled down’ to be worn as everyday garmentsmaking the collection an investment piece both for a stylist and the everyday wearer.
The wearer of these pieces is someone who wants to be seen.
The Camper
This body showcases the power struggle between groups of people showing through the strong camp aspects of a contemporary version of a Scottish highlander. The kilt particularly shows the power struggle between the Scot’s with the tartan and the English take over shown through the oil painting applique. The paintings chosen for the English applique was chosen purposefully, with both the male and the female shown with animals. As research has shown, having an animal in the 17th and 18th century was a form of status and power.
The Royal Power over the people. The royals and the commoners. This body, inspired by the large coats and embellishment of royal military wear. Is showcased through the upcyled charms of the jacket. Camping and survival aspects are shown through the paracord, the only item on the charms purchased as brand new. This paracord was a general 8 strand paracord which can be pulled apart and used to mend and sew, used as fishing line and nooses for hunting.
The Prep
Showcases camping in a literal sense, showcasing a one person tent worn as a headpiece. The Prep body explores the idea within the concept relating to power in dressing. The literal version of power dressing is shown in this body with the preppy suit worn underneath the tent headpiece.
WAnder
The bandwagon
‘Get on the bandwagon,’ the person who jumps on the bandwagon. These people give the elie more power by following them. This ultimately makes the elite trendsetters, giving empowerment to both the person they are following and the follower.
The Skiier
The skiier showcases the psyche of the elite as a whole. Wearing a different colour palette to the rest of the bodies within the collection; exploring many prints along with a very strong contrasting colour. The skiier wants to be seen but also look quite casual. They are waiting, and wanting for someone to take a photo of them from the hotel bar in the Swiss Alps.
WAnder
the Collection
The Royal
Royal - Body 2
Collection
All works designed, developed and created by Zali Drew. Trend research - Zali Drew
Photo editing- Zali Drew & Dimple Shah
Photography - Zali Drew, Dimple Shah & Jonathan Lim