Who's Hungry? Magazine | No 3

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FEATURES 28 Weather Permitting 2 CONTENTS 8 5 Great Farm-to-Table Restaurants 34 Simple Summer Sides16 In Season: Pickled & Preserved
4 Contributors 5 Letter fr om Steve 6 Stylist’s Corner 8 5 Great Farm-to-Table Restaurants 10 Out of the Ba g 12 Art of the Grill 14 P ortrait of a Chef 16 In Season: Pickled & Preserved 28 Weather Permitting: Tomato Time 34 Simple Summer Sides 44 High Spirits: Garden in a Glass 46 Cherries & Tar 56 Ho w We Did It 58 Recipe Index CONTENTS CONTACTS 3CONTENTS media inquiries Judith Mara | marabeach@sbcglobal.net Deirdre O’Shea | deirdre@stephenhamilton.com sponsorship opportunities Deirdre O’Shea | deirdre@stephenhamilton.com representation Schumann & Company | www.schumannco.com patti@schumannco.com | 312.432.1702 stephen hamilton 1520 W. Fulton | Chicago, IL 60607 www.stephenhamilton.com 46 Cherries & Tar 44 High Spirits: Garden in a Glass

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost seven years and helps to lead the editorial concept and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An award-winning former creative director for major ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and literally hand writes How We Did It.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine with meticulous attention to detail and typography, and helped turn static images into an interactive experience. His award-winning design work has been featured in the pages of Print, Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA.

Deirdre O’Shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton, you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years of experience in managing photography studios, Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping production on schedule.

ian knauer | Writer, Author, Soon-to-be TV Personality

A former editor at Gourmet Magazine, Ian develops recipes for Food Network and contributes regularly to Bon Appétit. His own PBS show, The Farm, will air in 2013 and bring to life the stories and recipes from his celebrated new cookbook by the same name. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Ian takes us to his family’s farmhouse kitchen where we’re put to work and rewarded with an incredible meal.

kathryn o’malley | Associate Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her passion for writing about it; as the newest addition to the Who’s Hungry?™ team, she indulges in a bit of both. Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com, garners more than 40,000 unique viewers per month and highlights the people and stories behind great recipes.

steve dolinsky | Writer

Since 2003, Steve has been the recognizable face of ABC 7’s “The Hungry Hound,” filing reports on the best eats in Chicago. He has also appeared as a guest judge on “Iron Chef America”, as a contributor to “Unique Eats”, and serves as one of the Academy Judges for “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.” For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Steve ticked off his favorite al fresco restaurants across the country.

a special thanks to : Janet Rausa Fuller, Stephanie Izard and her assistant Jen Eisen, Giuseppe Tentori, Paula Deen and her right-hand creative man Brandon Branch, Emeril Lagasse, Elizabeth Karmel, Art Smith and his mother Addie Mae, Paul Virant, Hugh Acheson, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Paula Walters, Raymond Barrera, CeCe Campise, JoAnn Witherell, Ruth Siegel, Josephine Orba, Andrew Burkle, JJ Campise, Breana Moeller, Tamara Morrison, Vanessa Dubiel, Justin Paris, Taylor Strohmeyer.

4 CONTRIBUTORS
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LETTER FROM STEVE

Take, for example, this issue’s cover shot. To me, the best burger is thick, cooked on a charcoal grill and adorned by simple additions: cheese, ketchup, pickles, lettuce, tomato, and a swipe of mayonnaise. The purity of ingredients is why late summer is my favorite season.

Much of this simple abundance begins at one place–the farm. I’m excited to present a personal story from Ian Knauer, a former editor of Gourmet magazine and the author of a new cookbook, The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food. His witty and charming tale about rehabbing his family’s post-Civil War farmhouse kitchen pulls you right to your knees as he removes tar from the floor and then back up again as he describes his celebratory farm meal.

Fussy entertaining has no place in the summer kitchen. In “Simple Summer Sides,” I challenged our good friends and renowned chefs to share a side dish that they would serve at their family barbecue. Who would know better than Paula Deen, Elizabeth Karmel, Art Smith, and Emeril Lagasse how to use all the impeccable produce available at this time of year?

I live and work by the philosophy that simple is better. My approach to photography is to keep my images clean, natural and uncomplicated. My philosophy for eating and cooking isn’t any different. BURKLE STEVE’S PORTRAIT ANDREW BURKLE

To preserve some of the bounty of the season, you’ll want to read “In Season.” Chefs and food preservation experts Hugh Acheson and Paul Virant pen their thoughts and recipes for canning some of that goodness for the winter months ahead.

Simply said, this is the perfect time of year to answer “Who’s Hungry?™”

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LETTER FROM STEVE | CONTRIBUTORS’ PORTRAITS BY ANDREW
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BY

CORNER STYLIST’S

When Tom Hamilton, globe-trot ting stylist and flea market con noisseur, arrived in Jasper, Florida for a farm-inspired photo shoot as part of Art Smith’s cookbook, Back to the Family, he had only three days to prepare. In instances like this, where time is limited, Tom’s keen eye for found objects can be incredibly useful.

To play to the land’s natural beauty, Tom turned to local antique stores for props that embodied the rustic look he was seeking. Here, mismatched wooden chairs, tin containers, and a ceramic pitcher convey a casual, no-frills dinner scene that echoes the feel of the farm. Varying the heights and shapes of the dishware while working within a certain color scheme, says Tom, is the key to creating a striking yet cohesive look. With the addition of a loose bouquet of garden flowers, the resulting setup appears simple, fresh and natural–the very essence of farm-to-table cooking.

tom hamilton
6 STYLIST’S CORNER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | STYLED BY TOM HAMILTON
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BLACKBERRY FARM

1471 WEST MILLERS COVE RD. WALLAND, TENNESSEE 37886

Situated on a majestic, 4,200-acre estate in the Great Smoky Mountains of eastern Tennessee, Blackberry Farm truly exemplifies the farm-to-table ethos of the Old South, with more than a few modern amenities in both the Inn and adjoining restaurant. The chefs employ Foothills cuisine, a style they define as “refined yet rugged.” Meals are served in a restored, 18th century Amish barn, and reflect the season. Guests are encouraged to spend time working in the fields and gardens, to better appreciate the ripe peaches, foraged mushrooms and heirloom produce that will ultimately grace their dinner table. RESTAURANTS

Steve Dolinsky, Food Reporter for ABC 7 News in Chicago and 12 time James Beard Award winner, shares five recommendations for farm-to-table restaurants from coast to coast.

BLUE HILL AT STONE BARNS 630 BEDFORD RD. TARRYTOWN, NY 10591

It took a family farm in Massachusetts to inspire Dan and David Barber. They started cooking farm-to-table in 2000 with their first restaurant, Blue Hill, in Greenwich Village. Four years later, they reestablished their family’s Blue Hill Farm in its original form, within the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture in Pocantico Hills, New York. The Center is a working, year round farm and educational center just 30 miles north of New York City. Sourcing from the nearby fields and pasture, as well as other local farms, the restaurant highlights the abundance of the Hudson Valley. There are no menus. Instead, guests are presented with a list of more than a hundred ingredients, updated almost daily, which contains the best offerings from the field and market, such as sunflowers, Carmen peppers, heritage breed pigs and Magic Mountain tomatoes.

Portrait by Todd Rosenberg Photography

8 5 GREAT FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANTS
GREAT FARM-TO-TABLE

EARTH AT HIDDEN POND 354 GOOSE ROCKS RD. KENNEBUNKPORT, ME 04046

Imagine a walk in the woods, next to a series of gardens with unlimited produce, harvested and transformed into some of the most delicious food on the East Coast. Maintaining that “simple yet innovative” mantra, Earth’s menu—driven by James Beard award-winning Boston chef Ken Oringer—is all about “farm to fork.” While the ability to source local meats and seafood is relatively easy, produce comes from one of two onsite organic gardens; they’re picked daily and are incorporated into just about every dish. Even cocktails are created using their own herbs and muddled fruits. The restaurant’s walls are made from trees cut to clear the site, which will remind you of your surroundings even as you polish off a local seafood paella embedded with spring peas and greens.

THE HERBFARM

14590 NE 145TH ST. WOODINVILLE, WA 98072

For much of the year, The Herbfarm’s gardens and farm supply the restaurant with its produce. It’s not uncommon to see wild mushrooms, heritage fruits and handmade cheeses share menu space with oddities such as water-grown wasabi root and artisanal caviars. Each day’s 9-course menu is finalized just a few hours before the meal, highlighting the best from farm, forest, and sea. Paddlefish caviar and Puget Sound perch might arrive with a fiery kimchi made from local cucumbers, while muscat-poached peaches and anise hyssop ice prove local doesn’t always have to be predictable. Even the wines all hail from the Pacific Northwest.

WILLOWS INN

2579 W. SHORE DR. LUMMI ISLAND, WA 98262

Since 1910, this hideaway—located in the archipelago that includes the San Juan Islands and the Gulf Islands in the Salish Sea—has been nestled among mountains, volcanoes, rivers, lakes and salt waters. Salmon, blackberries and wild roses are as common as potholes in Chicago. The prix fixe menu is available Wednesday through Sunday, and chef Blaine Wetzel’s creations seem to channel Copenhagen’s Noma as much as anyone. How many dining rooms, after all, turn the forest loose on your tongue?

Salmonberry flowers, spruce needles and stinging nettles are used as frequently as some other chefs might use basil or thyme. Perhaps it’s one of the reasons Food & Wine Magazine named him one of their “Best New Chefs” earlier this summer.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON
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OUT of the BAG

There are no beaches in Stephen Hamilton’s studio. No snow-capped mountains or azure skies or grassy fields, either. So when a photo calls for the perfect setting, Stephen relies on the talents of Tamara Morrison to create a place with her paintbrush. Tamara’s custom painted backdrops are truly works of art, featuring everything from billowy clouds to glittering sands. Most importantly, they have the ability to transport food to anywhere in the world, all without ever stepping out of the studio. Take a peek into Tamara’s toolbox on wheels, overflowing with the tools of her craft.

1. buckets and rulers

It may look like a painter robbed an elementary school, but these rulers are the perfect paint stirrers, and these paint buckets are the perfect mixing bowls.

2. tints

A variety of tints lets Tamara fine-tune a paint color and create her own; she may adjust a paint color as many as five times during a shoot until she gets it just right.

3. canvas & muslin backdrops

Every scene begins with a blank canvas. Tamara usually arrives at a shoot with only a base color painted, and then paints the rest of the scene while on set in the studio. Working on set allows Stephen and Tamara to collaborate and make adjustments as necessary.

4. paint brushes

Wide skies call for big brush strokes. The veins of a leaf call for lots of little ones. With her arsenal of brushes, Tamara is ready for anything–no matter what shape or size.

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10 OUT OF THE BAG: TAMARA MORRISON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON tamara morrison
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THE WHISPERING FLAME

With

THE SIMULATED GRILL

This isn’t your traditional grill. Grill grates placed above a light box allows to easily manipulate the appearance of When lit from the light box beneath, red acrylic briquettes dusted in grey look so real you would swear could the

12 THE ART OF THE GRILL » »
Geoff
heat.
powder
you
smell
smoke.
special effects master Geoff Binns-Calvey’s custom flame rig–a snaking collection of metal valves, bottles, and glass tubes–we can control exactly where, when, and how large the flames appear. This way, they don’t disrupt an already perfectly styled piece of meat.

THE GRILL MARKS

When it comes to photography, where timing is everything, a product needs to be styled completely before it hits the set. After searing the pork chops, food stylist Josephine Orba created grill marks with hot metal skewers to give the meat a wonderfully charred, smoky appearance.

THE ART of the GRILL by KATHRYN O’MALLEY

THE JUICE

The pork chops are left slightly undercooked so that they don’t dry out on set, where they are exposed to additional heat. A browning agent and a brush of oil makes them look extra juicy.

Few things say summer like a hot, juicy hamburger fresh off the grill, or a glazed piece of pork cooked to perfection. But creating a grill shot can pose unique challenges. How do you capture the heat of the grill without disturbing (or drying out) a styled product? How do you control something as wild as fire? The answer begins with a talented stylist, calculated timing, some complex contraptions, and of course, the photographer’s vision. Click the bullets to learn more about how we tamed the flame.

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HAMILTON
STEPHANIE IZARD PORTRAIT OF A CHEF
PORTRAIT OF A CHEF: STEPHANIE IZARD14

Stephanie Izard knows success. She is the first female winner in Top Chef history, owner of one of Chicago’s hottest restaurants, Girl & the Goat (inspired by the Izard surname, which is French for a Pyrenean goat-antelope), and is about to launch a spin-off restaurant-diner, Little Goat, this October.

Izard’s laid-back style and swoonworthy flavors draw flocks of hungry fans and food lovers from across the country. Her cooking is bold and complex, yet completely unpretentious–much like the chef herself. Izard’s infectious enthusiasm and warm, no-fuss personality makes her one of the most likeable culinary rock stars you will ever meet.

We invited Giuseppe Tentori, the subject of last issue’s “Portrait of a Chef,” to submit questions he was curious to ask Stephanie…and it seems they both have a great sense of humor.

what would you do if you weren’t a chef?

Scuba instructor.

what’s one of your funniest moments in a kitchen?

Not sure if it was funny, but it was awkward: When a guest started talking to one of the male line cooks, thanking him for the meal, convinced it was me. Do I look that manly? Hmmm.

what do you look for in chefs who apply to work in your kitchen?

We like line cooks that love what they do and are also fun. 12 to 14 hours is a long time to spend with people that are not fun.

what’s one ingredient that you’d rather not ever cook with? why?

Green bell peppers. For no other reason than they just do not taste good.

what do you miss the most about your days on the line?

When I start to miss it I just go back there and cook.

Quite possibly the most popular item on the Girl and the Goat’s menu is Stephanie’s Sautéed Green Beans with fish sauce vinaigrette and cashews.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON
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Think back, or ahead, to January. What’s missing: the sun-kissed stone fruits and snappy green, red and yellow vegetables of summer. Root vegetables are reliable partners for the long haul. You’ll manage.

But why just get by? In the stark cold, why not uncap a jar of sprightly giardiniera or pickled peppers from the garden that recall the sweet heat of backyard barbecues? A slather of homemade strawberry jam on warm toast, in a snowstorm–it’s seasonal confusion at its most delicious.

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May SeptemberJanuary July NovemberMarch June OctoberFebruary August DecemberApril 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

IN SEASON

Pickled & Preserved

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES & ESSAYS BY HUGH ACHESON & PAUL VIRANT | RECIPE BY CECE CAMPISE
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View Cece Campise’s recipe on page 58 » summer peach jam
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IN SEASON: PICKLED & PRESERVED

Canning stretches the seasons, and now is the time to get started. The produce at the market in August that begs to be bought by the armful can be enjoyed, well preserved, in April–atop a burger, stirred into sauce, eaten straight from the jar.

It takes effort. But there are plenty of resources in print, online, and very likely within your social network to guide and inspire you.

Starting on the following pages with a jam recipe from CeCe Campise, then essays and recipes by Virant and James Beard Award-winning chef Hugh Acheson, whose book, A New Turn in the South, should also be on your short list. As the seasons shift, you’ll be glad you did.

Putting up food isn’t strictly a warmweather pursuit. As Chicago chef and pickling savant Paul Virant writes in his book Preservation Kitchen, winter citrus is fair game for preserving as well. BY PAUL VIRANT RECIPE BY CECE CAMPISE

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES & ESSAYS
HUGH ACHESON &
|

Putting Up

Hugh Acheson is the chef/partner of Five & Ten and the National restaurants in Athens, Ga. and Empire State South in Atlanta. He wrote the James Beard Award-winning cookbook, A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented for Your Kitchen and has appeared on Bravo’s “Top Chef Masters” and “Top Chef.” Essay by HUGH ACHESON
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Pickling and preserving has been a nourishing facet of the Southern table for centuries. This “putting up” practice has long demarcated the seasons, reminding us that to have tomatoes in December, we had better get working in August.

Even with a boom in the popularity of preserving and pickling, we are losing ground to the grocery store. This is the malaise of convenience. The aisles provide a homogenized landscape to our palates, where everything is always available.

I love reminding people about that moment in early fall when the apples of northeast Georgia burst onto the scene. It’s then that I get antsy for Arkansas Blacks, my favorite varietal of apple from a local farm in Elberton, Ga.

Filling the pantry with chow chow, okra, dilly beans and cukes is hard work, but the redemption comes in February when you are able to eat a little bit of summer with your wintery supper. STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES & ESSAYS BY HUGH ACHESON & PAUL VIRANT | RECIPE BY CECE CAMPISE

The process is so basic, so tried and true. I pick up the phone and talk to Bill. Bill goes and gets the apples and brings them to Athens. I buy said apples. It’s a glorious relationship that happens every year and results in canned treasures of conserves, apple butters and chutneys.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY
SeptemberAugust 8 9

I can remember making my first batches of bread-and-butter pickles and pickled okra, leaning on old tomes of American food like The Joy of Cooking, Fannie Farmer, and the Time Life Good Cook Series. I remember going through the whole process, tweaking to keep things current, and then trying to wait patiently for the pickles to mature.

That last step rarely worked out because of my love of snacking. The bread-andbutter pickles were sweet and savory at the same time, with the mustard seed pulling through, the bright notes of celery leaves, the pungency of turmeric, and the acid kiss of cider vinegar.

Increasing production to a level that even I could not snack through let us enjoy the pickles months later. Now the January sandwich, the February burger and the March egg salad get August’s pickles.

We have to get back to the canning pot to fully embrace the beauty of living in a wonderful world of seasonal foods.

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IN SEASON: PICKLED & PRESERVED
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES & ESSAYS BY HUGH ACHESON & PAUL VIRANT | RECIPE BY CECE CAMPISE View Hugh Acheson’s recipe on page 59 » bread ’n’ butter pickles
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View Paul Virant’s recipe on page 60 » grape aigre-doux
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Can-do Aigre-Doux

From the arrival of ramps in spring to the last cranberry harvest in fall, my cooks and I turn into canning machines, preserving as many vegetables and fruits as our pantry shelves can handle.

Ever since I opened Vie, my restaurant in Western Springs, Ill., in 2004, I have made a habit of preserving seasonal produce. Back then I did it so I could feature produce from local farms on our menu year round. But it’s the depth of flavor I can achieve while cooking with preserves that keeps me excited about it all these years later.

In those early days, I was only just figuring out how to cook with pickles and jams. I began finishing meat sauces with spoonfuls of brine, using butter and stock to glaze pickled vegetables, and garnishing a few cocktails with preserved berries or pickled ramps. Each splash of acidity or sweetness added complexity to the final product, so I kept at it while adding more and more types of preserves to the pantry.

Paul Virant is the chef and owner of the Chicago area restaurants Vie and Perennial Virant, and author with Kate Leahy of Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves and Aigre-Doux.
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September August 8 9

It wasn’t long before I came across aigredoux, a sweet-sour condiment from France. I took a class with Christine Ferber, a French preserving expert whose jams are famous in Paris.

One of Ferber’s demonstrations showcased pears soaked in wine, vinegar, honey, and vanilla bean. It was a revelation: the sharpness of the wine and vinegar was offset by the pears’ mellow sweetness. I was hooked on this bittersweet combination, and I incorporated aigre-doux into my canning program.

Aigre-doux is most often composed of fruit in a wine-based brine, but it also can be made with sweet vegetables such as onions, beets and carrots. While it tastes complex, aigre-doux is very easy to make.

Take grapes, for instance. All you do is put stemmed grapes (I like goldenrod or canadice varieties) in a jar, pour hot brine over the grapes, cap the jar with a lid and boil the jar in a water bath. During the processing time, some of the sweetness of the fruit leaches out into the brine. The result is a sweet-sour grape juice.

To use it, I take the brine and simmer it in a pot until reduced by half. I mix in olive oil, shallots, and aigre-doux grapes to make vinaigrette. It’s also good tossed with roasted cauliflower, capers and parsley. No matter the application, the tang of grapes and wine is the main draw.

View Paul Virant’s recipe on page 61 » waldorf salad with apples, candied walnuts, and grape aigre-doux dressing
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IN SEASON: PICKLED & PRESERVED
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES & ESSAYS BY HUGH ACHESON & PAUL VIRANT | RECIPE BY CECE CAMPISE
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1. 2.

Summer tomatoes. What better captures the flavor of summer and sunshine? At every farmer’s market from as far north as Bemidji, Minnesota to as far south as San Antonio, Texas, it’s tomato time.

WEATHER PERMITTING

TOMATO TIME

Treat Your Heirlooms With Respect

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WEATHER PERMITTING: TOMATO TIME
3. 4.
29PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON 6. 8. 9. 10. 7. 5. 1. black russian 2. brandywine 3. isis candy 4. sun gold 5. yellow gooseberry 6. green zebra 7. matt’s wild cherry 8. jaune flammé 9. san marzano 10. black krim

These days, heirloom tomatoes boast artistic first and last names such as Cherokee Purple, Green Giant, Hawaiian Currant, Great White, German Stripe, Black Krim, Paul Robeson, Green Zebra . . . and the list gets longer every year.

On your next trip to the farmer’s market, scoop up some tomatoes still on the vine. Soak the tomatoes in water for 10 minutes and drain. Place on a sheet of foil then grill until soft. The tomatoes and a tuna steak will take about the same amount of time to grill. Garnish with olive oil, sea salt, Kalamata olives and fresh herbs.

grilled tomatoes on the vine
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WEATHER PERMITTING: TOMATO TIME

There are now so many subtle colors in the tomato rainbow, it can be confusing to those who have only shopped for the red variety in the past. We’ll help solve the uncertainty of how to tell if a green tomato is ripe or not. Just give it a gentle press; if it’s soft, it’s ripe. The same tip goes for black, purple, yellow, orange and striped varieties.

Then there is the question of what does a green and purple Ananas Noire tomato taste like?

The easiest way to find out is to ask the farmer for a sample or take one home and give it a try. But in truth, tomato flavors vary only slightly depending on the tomato’s degree of sweetness and acidity. Homegrown tomatoes taste like a tomato should taste.

A perfectly ripe tomato needs no more than a few grains of salt to heighten its sweetness. Too much of anything strongly flavored, such as commercial salad dressing, is going to compete with that burst of juicy tomato flavor you have looked forward to all summer.

Our final word on tomatoes may be the most important: Tomatoes love the heat and hate the cold. The plants won’t even develop fruit if the nights aren’t above 60 degrees. And after they are picked, they are still cold sensitive. So treat your tomatoes with respect and never store them in the refrigerator–it makes them mealy and insipid like so many supermarket tomatoes.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

Summer tomatoes should be the star of the dish. Slice tomatoes into wedges and sprinkle lightly with salt and fresh pepper. In a bowl, combine some olive oil, red wine vinegar, a half clove of chopped garlic (optional), sliced red onion and fresh herbs. Add tomatoes and toss.

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WEATHER PERMITTING: TOMATO TIME
mostly tomato salad PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON View Paula Deen’s recipe on page 62 » chilled grilled corn and watermelon salad
PAULA DEEN recipe by pauladeen.com
“Side dishes are never just plain ol’ sides for me. They’re what make a regular meal something great!”
SIMPLE SUMMER SIDES

SIMPLE

SUMMER SIDES

When the weather grows warm and the nights grow long, the season calls for plenty of parties, picnics and barbecues.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

We love our grills, and we recall charred grates, cold drinks, and Frisbee-filled afternoons as fondly as our first dates and old cars. According to a Weber GrillWatch Survey, more than two thirds of American adults own an outdoor grill or smoker, which they ritualistically pamper and frequently fire up.

Of course, a barbecue cannot consist of hamburgers and hotdogs alone. With all that grilling going on, we decided to ask four all-American chefs for their favorite go-to sides for summer–and they gave us a little something else to remember.

Cooking out is an American tradition. No swim at the beach, excursion to the local park, or gathering in the backyard is complete without a little extra summer sizzle.
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SIMPLE SUMMER SIDES

Done right, summer sides are delicious in their own right and elevate a meal into something truly special. When we asked our friend Paula Deen, Emmy Award-winning television personality and Southern sweetheart, for her philosophy on sides, she responded:

“Side dishes are never just plain ol’ sides for me. They’re what make a regular meal something great! So keep in mind that your salads and stuffings are just as memorable as anything else you put on your plates this summer.” BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

True to her word, Paula’s grilled corn and watermelon salad is elegant, refreshing, and guaranteed to make a lasting impression.

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PHOTOGRAPHY

Food Network star and James Beard winner Emeril Lagasse knows that good food doesn’t have to be complicated. His recipe for sautéed spinach with plump figs and a drizzle of honey is a seamless blend of sweet and savory that’s just as stunning as it is easy. When we asked for his thoughts on summer sides, he explained:

“For me, it’s all about keeping it simple and fresh.”

“Summer is filled with an abundance of great-tasting produce that makes for great sides.”
EMERIL LAGASSE recipe by from The Essence of Emeril
38 SIMPLE SUMMER SIDES
View Emeril Lagasse’s recipe on page 63 » spinach sautéed with garlic, figs, and honey
39PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON
View Elizabeth Karmel’s recipe on page 64 » grilled panzanella, a.k.a. italian bread salad with summer vegetables
40 SIMPLE SUMMER SIDES

“The [side] dish should strike a balance of acid, salt, richness, and freshness. And, it should be as ‘craveable’ as the main course.”

Elizabeth Karmel, author of Soaked, Slathered and Seasoned, and unofficial “Queen of the Grill,” tells us her approach to summer sides can be summed up with three key words: ripe, color, flavor. Her take on the Italian panzanella–filled with toasty golden bread, bright grilled vegetables, and traditional Tuscan seasonings–embodies them all.

“No matter what you are grilling for the main course,” Elizabeth advises, “it’s important to serve a vibrant dish with juicy, top-of-the-season flavors.”

41PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

Some dishes linger in our minds for their incredible taste; others, for the memories they conjure. For our long-time friend Art Smith, Top Chef Masters contestant and author of Back to the Family, part of what makes a dish great are the ties and traditions behind it. Here, he shares with us a personal family favorite: the prized potato salad recipe belonging to his mother, Addie Mae. Familiar and satisfying, it is summer comfort food at its best.

SIMPLE SUMMER SIDES

ART SMITH recipe by From Back to the Family

View Art Smith’s recipe on page 65 » addie mae’s potato salad
“All great meals have great side dishes as part of the equation. Some sides can become the meal itself.”
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON View Andrew Chabot and Graham Case’s recipe on page 66 » garden bloody mary
44 HIGH SPIRITS: GARDEN IN A GLASS

GARDEN in a GLASS HIGH SPIRITS

The views are never ending at Blackberry Farm, which is tucked into the idyllic foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains of Tennessee, and so is their connection to the earth.

The renowned restaurant, fondly called The Barn, is revered for both its Foothills cuisine and its resident culinary artists: the chef, the master gardener, the baker, the cheesemaker, the forager, the butcher, the jam lady, the chocolatier, the mixologist, and the sommelier.

Blackberry Farm’s Sommelier and Food & Beverage Director, Andrew Chabot, and Mixologist, Graham Case, have created no less than three separate cocktail menus based on what is grown on the farm. To us, nothing represents a garden of fresh flavors more than their Garden Bloody Mary served in a Mason jar.

Chabot asserts that making their own Bloody Mary mix with Angostura syrup bitters and hot pepper sauce gives the drink a depth of flavor rather than just heat. The traditional ingredient notably missing is celery salt. He claims the fresh sour mix is what livens up the tomato flavor and makes the cocktail more vibrant. However, this spirited drink has one distinction not tied to a garden: It’s made with fine Kentucky bourbon. When Chabot was asked why he uses bourbon, he responded, “Why not?” As fresh and delicious as this recipe tastes, we say the exact same thing.

45PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

CHERRIES & TAR

Ian Knauer, author of the acclaimed new cookbook, The Farm, weaves for us a tale of battling his ancient farmhouse kitchen floor and the reward of sharing a family meal to celebrate its imperfections. Stephen Hamilton illustrates Cherries & Tar with four seasonal farm dishes from Knauer’s new cookbook.
CHERRIES & TAR46
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES BY IAN KNAUER
47
The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food sorts recipes by the season. Stephen Hamilton chose to follow the same model with his food photography. View Ian Knauer’s recipe on page 67 » thyme-roasted butternut squash
48 CHERRIES & TAR

If you’re looking for a sure-fire guarantee that your great-grandchildren will curse your name, I’ve got two words for you: linoleum and wallpaper. My family’s farmhouse was built just after the Civil War and has been passed down from generation to generation with little renovation. But some time around the 1940’s, someone got the hair-brained idea to cover the kitchen floor with linoleum and the walls with a pink floral print. Now it’s my turn to keep the place in good shape, and, I’m a cook. The old stove with two small working burners (and two more that have been kaput for years) just wouldn’t do.

I could have kept the job simple and just replaced the stove. But the wallpaper had started to peel off on its own and while I was at it, I could rip up the linoleum exposing the expected perfect patina of pine floorboards. I told myself it wouldn’t be hard, just scrape, paint, and sand. I figured it would just be a couple days before I was whipping up Cherry-Sour Cream Crostatas in my new farmhousechic country kitchen to share with my friends and family. I have never been so wrong about anything in my life.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES BY IAN KNAUER
49
I want it to look as nice on camera as it does in my mind and heart. I love this place; my roots grow deep here. View Ian Knauer’s recipe on page 68 » chicken with a ton of garlic
50 CHERRIES & TAR

I wrote a cookbook about the farm and the family, and PBS has signed on to air a cooking show based on the book and the place. It will be filmed in the kitchen of the farmhouse. A sponsor has donated a cooking range. I want it to look as nice on camera as it does in my mind and heart. I love this place; my roots grow deep here.

The wallpaper took me an agonizing week to remove. The linoleum was another story.

In fact, the linoleum itself wasn’t so bad; it was the tar paper between it and the floorboards that had (probably some time around the 1970’s) ceased to be paper and just became tar. Finding it made me want to cry, but I had an idea. I rented a drum sander. I would just shave off the top layer of the wood–which needed to be done anyway–taking the tar up with it. One foot into the project, the sandpaper was gummed to the point of no return.

I no longer wanted to cry–I just cried.

My motivation to renovate is not just driven by my stomach and my love of shared meals.
51
View Ian Knauer’s recipe on page 69 » cold-spring-night asparagus soup
52 CHERRIES & TAR

I spent the next two weeks on my hands and knees applying hot water to the tar with a sponge before scraping it away an inch at a time. My pace was 3 square feet an hour. My knees stuck to the floor. My sweat poured off of me and into the freshly exposed ancient wood. I cursed my ancestors aloud. And, it is still not finished, but the area of the floor that houses the stove was the first order of business. Finally, the range was installed. To celebrate I called my family and friends to join me for a meal at the farm.

As they arrived in waves on a hot summer Saturday, everyone took turns admiring the stove and rolling their eyes at the remaining sticky patches of floor. But the promise of fresh produce can be a great distraction. The garden that I planted with my sisters last spring was in full bloom. We wandered through rows of tomatoes (and weeds) picking everything we would cook before we gathered on the front porch to eat. STEPHEN HAMILTON KNAUER

53
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
| RECIPES BY IAN
54 CHERRIES & TAR

It is true that hard work makes everything taste better, but roasted cherry tomato and homemade ricotta crostini are pretty wonderful even without hours of tar scraping under your belt. Little basil leaves always fall in just the right nooks when scattered over grilled ratatouille pizza. Blue cheese and freshly pulled beets is a marriage that no chef can outdo, especially when tied together with dill.

It is dinners like this one that remind me of my grandfather. He too loved this place and poured his time and sweat into its earth. But, he liked to remind us that the work and upkeep of the farm will always be here. There will always be a list of chores too long to finish in one lifetime. And, the most important work we can do is to love and feed each other and spend time together as a family. It is the easiest job of all–made even easier with Cherry-Sour Cream Crostatas.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | RECIPES BY IAN KNAUER View Ian Knauer’s recipe on page 70 » sour cherry-sour cream crostata pie
55

HOW WE DID IT

Deconstructing a shot from Stephen Hamilton’s The Restaurant Project

favorite dish 40 Day Ribeye

Restaurant Primehouse, Chicago

food stylist Josephine Orba

prop stylist Paula Walters

HOW WE DID IT
PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN
57
BY
HAMILTON

At Green City Market in Chicago, I picked up some really ripe tomatoes from Mick Klug farm. I waited a few days to use them. They became so ripe I didn’t even use a knife to cut them–just squished them in my fingers!

makes 8 cups jam

ingredients:

4 cups mashed peaches

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

7 cups sugar

1 pouch of liquid pectin

summer peach jam

Cece Campise

Place a small plate in the freezer to test the jam later on. Place the peaches, lemon juice, and sugar in a large deep pot. Bring to a rolling boil, stirring constantly. Add the pectin, and cook for 1 minute.

Remove plate from freezer and dab a little jam on it. The jam should set pretty quickly. Take it off the heat and process in jars for shelf-stable jams, or plastic containers to be refrigerated.

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RECIPE INDEX

This recipe is a very simple one to do and the results are just what you envision: tons more flavor than the store-boughts, a little less sweet and a little zestier.

makes 3 to 4 pints

ingredients:

10 small picking cucumbers (4 to 5 inches long and an 1½ inches in diameter)

1 medium sweet onion, partial to Vidalia when possible

1/4 cup kosher salt

· 1/4 cup fresh celery leaves

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 teaspoon ground fenugreek

· 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

· 8 allspice berries

11/2 cups of cider vinegar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

· 1/4 cup sorghum or maple syrup

Hugh Acheson: A New Turn in the South: Southern Flavors Reinvented For Your Kitchen bread ’n’ butter pickles

Wash the cucumbers under cold water and then slice them into 1/3-inch-thick rounds. Peel the onion and slice into 1/3inch strips. Mix the onions and the cucumbers in a medium bowl and add half of the kosher salt. Toss well and let sit for 1 hour at room temperature.

Rinse the onions and cucumbers well using a colander and cold water to remove the salt. When thoroughly rinsed and drained, place them in a medium nonreactive bowl, tear the celery leaves into the mixture, and set aside. Pack the cucumbers, onion, and celery leaves into clean pint jars with the tops off.

In a nonreactive pot, combine remaining salt, the red pepper flakes, fenugreek, fennel seeds, turmeric, mustard seeds, allspice, vinegar, sugar, sorghum and ½ cup water. Bring to a rapid boil and then pour evenly over the cucumbers.

Attach the lids and leave them out on the counter for 2 hours and then place in the fridge. If you would like them to keep for the long haul, follow your jar manufacturer’s directives for canning.

At this point the pickles are pretty much done but the will be at their best a day or two later. The shelf life, without hot canning processing, is about 10 days.

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RECIPE INDEX

In late summer, farmers start to bring more nuanced, thin-skinned table grapes to market. While it is easy to eat an entire bunch of small, sweet goldenrod or perfectly round, purple canadice varieties, I make sure to save some for aigre-doux.

makes 4 half-pint jars

ingredients:

11/2 cups (12 ounces) white wine

1/2 cup (4 ounces) verjus

1/4 cup (2 ounces) champagne vinegar

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons ground black pepper

1 vanilla bean

scant 4 cups small red or green grapes, such as canadice, goldenrod, Bronx, or Thompson seedless, stemmed

Paul Virant: Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-Doux by Paul Virant with Kate Leahy grape aigre-doux

In a pot over medium-high heat, mix together the wine, verjus, vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Split the vanilla bean in half and scrape out the seeds with the tip of a spoon. Mix in the seeds and bean and simmer for a minute more. Transfer to a heat-proof pitcher and remove the vanilla bean (reserve for another use).

Scald 4 half-pint jars. (To scald, using tongs put the jars into a large pot of simmering water fitted with a rack — you will use this pot to process the jars. Remove the jars right before filling.) Meanwhile, soak the lids in a pan of hot water to soften the rubber seal.

Pack the grapes into the jars, leaving about a 1/2-inch space from the rim. Check the jars for air pockets, pouring in more of the liquid if necessary to fill in gaps. Wipe the rims with a clean towel, seal with the lids, then screw on the bands until snug but not tight.

Place the jars in the pot with the rack and add enough water to cover the jars by about 1 inch. Bring the water to a boil and process the jars for 15 minutes (start the timer when the water reaches a boil). Remove the jars from the water and let cool completely.

60
RECIPE INDEX

While this salad has a few components, most of them can be made ahead of time. The curry oil in the dressing can be made as much as a week ahead, the candied walnuts will stay crisp for at least five days, and the dressing will keep in the refrigerator for about five days. This recipe makes more dressing than you need, but the extra is terrific served with plain mixed greens.

serves 4

ingredients:

1/2 cup apple cider

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon Madras curry powder

1 cup grapeseed oil

1 large egg

2 tablespoons crème fraîche

· 1/2 cup liquid strained from Grape Aigre-Doux

kosher salt

1 cup toasted walnuts

1/2 cup sugar

freshly ground black pepper

· 2 cups shredded iceberg lettuce

2 stalks celery, sliced

1 apple, thinly sliced (preferably honeycrisp)

1/2 cup drained grapes from Grape Aigre-Doux

To make the dressing, in a small pot, reduce the apple cider, lemon juice and curry powder until almost dry. Stir in the grapeseed oil and cook until the oil is too hot to touch, about 2 minutes. Cool the oil to room temperature.

In a food processor, blend the egg, crème fraîche, and AigreDoux liquid. While the processor is on, gradually drizzle in the curry oil until it becomes thick. (The oil and egg are binding together to form an emulsion. If the emulsion breaks and loses its shape, pour the mixture in a liquid measuring cup, add an egg yolk to the food processor and drizzle in the broken mixture as if it were oil.) Season with salt and refrigerate until needed. You will have about 2 cups. Refrigerate until needed.

To make the candied walnuts, line a baking pan with parchment paper or a non-stick, silicone baking mat. In a cold pan, combine the sugar with just enough water to create a mixture that resembles wet sand. Place the pan over high heat and cook the sugar until it begins to brown. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the walnuts. Season with a few pinches of salt and pepper and cook, stirring constantly, until a frosty coating covers the walnuts. Pour onto the prepared baking pan and let cool completely.

To serve the salad, combine the lettuce, apples, celery and drained grapes. Spoon just enough dressing to coat the ingredients evenly (about 1/4 cup) and add a pinch of salt and pepper. Mix well and garnish with candied walnuts and grapes.

Paul Virant: Preservation Kitchen: The Craft of Making and Cooking with Pickles, Preserves, and Aigre-Doux by Paul Virant with Kate Leahy
waldorf salad with apples, candied walnuts, and grape aigre-doux dressing
61
RECIPE INDEX

ingredients:

4 cups watermelon, seeded and diced

3 ears sweet corn, grilled and kernels cut off the cob

1 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

· 2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped salt and pepper to taste makes 4 servings

Paula Deen chilled grilled corn and watermelon salad

In a medium mixing bowl, gently toss all ingredients. Serve chilled.

62
RECIPE INDEX

makes 4 servings

ingredients:

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons garlic, thinly sliced

1/4 cup dried figs, sliced

· 1/4 cup chicken stock

1 pound baby spinach

1/2 teaspoon salt

· 1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 teaspoons honey

Emeril Lagasse: The Essence of Emeril spinach sautéed with garlic, figs and honey

In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, add the olive oil and, when hot, add the garlic and cook until lightly toasted, about 30 seconds. Add the figs and chicken stock and cook until stock is nearly completely reduced, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, until wilted, about 2 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper and drizzle with the honey just before serving.

63
RECIPE INDEX

makes 6 servings

ingredients:

4 large, ripe beefsteak tomatoes, seeded and cut into ¾-inch dice

· 1 cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded and cut on a sharp diagonal into ¼-inch thick slices

4 small garlic cloves, minced

· 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted

2 tablespoons drained capers

½ cup imported black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

· 1 cup shredded fresh basil leaves

1 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil plus more for brushing veggies

· 1/4 cup Balsamic vinegar

2 medium zucchini, halved lengthwise

2 long, thin eggplants, halved lengthwise

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and quartered

2 yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and quartered

2 large portobello mushrooms

1 large red onion, peeled and sliced

4 1-inch slices day-old peasant bread, cut from a round loaf sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Grilling Method: Direct/Medium Heat

In a large mixing bowl toss tomatoes cucumber, garlic, pine nuts, capers, olives and basil together with1 cup of olive oil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for 45 minutes.

Meanwhile toss the zucchini, eggplant, peppers and onion together with olive oil. Brush the remaining oil lightly over both sides of the mushrooms, onion slices and sliced bread. Season with salt. Place the vegetables on the cooking grate, turning to sear all over, until crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove and set side. Place bread on the cooking grate and grill on both sides until golden, 1½ to 2 minutes per side. Transfer the vegetables and bread to a cutting board and chop all into chunks. Combine with the tomato mixture, tossing well, and adjust seasoning to suit. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Elizabeth Karmel grilled panzanella a.k.a. italian bread salad with summer vegetables
64
RECIPE INDEX

makes 6-8 servings

ingredients:

2 pounds Yukon gold or new red potatoes, peeled and cubed

1/2 cup sweet pickle relish 5 hard-boiled eggs, chopped 2 teaspoons yellow prepared mustard 1 cup mayonnaise

1/2 onion, chopped

1 teaspoon celery seeds or 4 celery ribs, finely chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled for garnish

1 red bell pepper, chopped, for garnish cider vinegar to taste

Cover the potatoes with water and cook in a large pot over medium-high heat until just tender, about 6 minutes. Check the potatoes frequently, making sure they do not overcook.

Drain the potatoes in a colander and run cold water over them to let them cool. Transfer the potatoes back to pot.

Add the relish, eggs, mustard, mayonnaise, onion, celery seeds and salt and pepper, mixing gently. (For variety, you can also use dill relish instead of the sweet relish.)

Garnish with bacon, red pepper and a sprinkling of vinegar, if desired.

Art Smith: Back to the Family: Food Tastes Better Shared by the Ones You Love addie mae’s potato salad
65
RECIPE INDEX

makes 8 — 1 pint servings

ingredients for 1 cocktail:

1.5oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey

1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice

2 rosemary stems

2 thyme sprigs

2 fresh bay leaves

1 basil leaf

Bloody Mary Mix, recipe follows

In a mixing tin with ice add everything. Give a quick shake and then pour into a large mason jar. Garnish with a celery stalk speared in between a lemon wedge and an olive.

garden bloody mary

ingredients for sour mix:

1 lime in a pressed in a juicer for every 4 lemons

ingredients for bloody mary mix:

5, 32 oz cans of tomato juice

10 dashes of Angostura Bitters

20 dashes of Worcestershire sauce

25 dashes of Tabasco sauce

3 tablespoons of Sour Mix

3 bar spoons (1 1/2teaspoons) of horseradish salt and pepper to taste

Stir the ingredients together then store in whatever container you desire. Keep refrigerated.

Andrew Chabot and Graham Case
66
RECIPE INDEX

When butternut squash are ripe (you can tell by the hollow sound they make when you tap them), they are unbelievably sweet and nutty, with a smooth, buttery flavor. This recipe keeps things simple by roasting the squash with oil, thyme, salt, and pepper, then generously sprinkling it with cheese. It may seem like a lot of cheese at first, but once everything gets mixed together, the salty cheese and the fresh thyme do a great job of balancing the inherent sweetness of the squash.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees, with racks in the upper and lower thirds.

ingredients:

1 (3-pound) butternut squash

· 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped kosher salt and black pepper

2/3 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano serves 4-6

Peel and seed the squash and cut it into 1/2-inch pieces. Toss the squash with the oil, thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and divide between two large baking sheets.

Roast the squash, stirring occasionally, until it is tender and browned, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer the squash to a serving bowl and sprinkle generously with the Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Ian Knauer: The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food thyme-roasted butternut squash
67
RECIPE INDEX

ingredients:

2 whole heads garlic, for roasting

· olive oil

pinch of salt

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, plus 2 large fresh thyme sprigs

· 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/4 teaspoons Kosher salt (divided)

1 1/4 teaspoons black pepper (divided)

· 1 chicken (3 1/2 pounds)

1/2 lemon

2 heads garlic, halved

Ian Knauer: The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food chicken with a ton of garlic

I came up with this recipe after a long day in the garden. We had just planted what would become the following year’s garlic, using the heads that we had saved from the previous summer. I was left with four heads of garlic and figured this was a great way to celebrate the coming crop. I used it all in this recipe, and the result is a beautiful ode to “the stinking rose.”

Half of the garlic is roasted beforehand, mashed into a paste, and spread under the skin of the bird. The rest is stuffed inside the cavity, along with half a lemon and some thyme. The deep, caramelized flavor of the roasted garlic makes this taste like it’s been on a rotisserie, but, in fact, it’s just the oven.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch baking dish.

Roast two heads of garlic by cutting the top 1/2 inch off each head and discarding. Place each trimmed head on a small piece of foil, drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with pinch of salt. Wrap garlic in foil and roast in preheated oven 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove foil and cool. (Garlic can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to a month.)

Peel and mash roasted garlic together with thyme leaves, oil and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

Increase oven temperature to 450 degrees, with rack in middle of oven.

Rinse chicken and pat it dry. Being careful not to tear the skin, start at the large cavity and gently run your fingers between the skin and meat to loosen the skin. Push the roasted garlic mixture under the skin, including around the thighs and drumsticks, and massage skin from the outside to spread garlic evenly.

Squeeze the lemon half over the chicken, then season chicken inside and out with remaining 1 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Place halved garlic heads, lemon half and thyme sprigs in the cavity and loosely tie legs together with kitchen string.

Roast chicken in preheated oven until golden and skin pulls away from base of drumsticks, about 50 minutes. Transfer chicken to cutting board and let rest 15 minutes before carving and serving.

68
serves 4-6 RECIPE INDEX

In most of the country, spring nights are still chilly enough for warming soups. This one is an appropriate bridge between winter and spring, and I like to sip it from a mug in front of one of the season’s last crackling fires. It’s hearty with chicken stock and a leek and bright from the herbs (dill and cilantro) and sour cream. Be generous with the sour cream. It lends a tangy richness to the soup.

ingredients:

1 large leek, pale green and white parts only

· 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 garlic clove, smashed Kosher salt and black pepper

· 4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

1 pound asparagus, trimmed

12 cilantro sprigs

6 fresh dill sprigs sour cream for serving serves 4-6

Slice the leeks crosswise and rinse under cold running water. Melt the butter in a large heavy saucepan until the foam subsides. Cook the leek and garlic with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the leek is soft but not browned, about 6 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil.

Cut the asparagus into 2-inch pieces, then add to the stock. Cook until tender, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cilantro and dill. Transfer the soup to a blender in batches and blend until smooth. Season the soup with salt and pepper to taste. Serve topped with a dollop of sour cream.

Ian Knauer: The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food cold-spring-night asparagus soup
69
RECIPE INDEX

You might think sour cherries are sour enough on their own and don’t need any help from anything else soured. But sour cream brings more than just a little pucker to the mix. The sour cream in this pie seems to melt into the fruit filling balancing the fruit tart with supple, satisfying intrigue.

Work together the flour, cornmeal, butter, sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt with your hands until mostly combined with some small lumps of butter remaining. Stir in 3 tablespoons water with a fork. Press a small handful of dough together, if it looks powdery and does not come together, stir in the additional 1tablespoon of water. Transfer the dough to a sheet of plastic wrap. Using the edge of plastic, fold dough over on itself, pressing until it comes together. Form the dough into a disk, wrapped completely in the plastic and chill for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Roll out the pastry dough on a well-floured surface with a floured rolling pin into a 12-inch round. Place the dough in a 10-inch pie tin. Spread the sour cream evenly over the bottom of the crust.

ingredients for pastry dough:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup finely ground cornmeal

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into cubes

3 to 4 tablespoons cold water kosher salt

ingredients for filling:

1/4 cup sour cream

1 3/4 lbs fresh sour cherries, pitted (about 5 cups)*

3/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon lemon zest serves 6-8

1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

Toss the cherries with the sugar and zest, then spread the fruit evenly over the dough in the tin. Fold the border of dough up and over the edge of the fruit.

Bake the crostata until the crust is golden, the filling is bubbling, and the cherries are bubbling and slightly thickened. This will take 45 to 50 minutes.

*editor’s note: frozen cherries can be substituted

Ian Knauer: Recipe adapted from The Farm: Rustic Recipes for a Year of Incredible Food sour cherry-sour cream crostata pie
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RECIPE INDEX

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