2013 Windstar Sophisticate

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WINDSTAR

®

2013-2014 • THE IN-CABIN MAGAZINE FOR WINDSTAR CRUISES GUESTS

SOPHISTICATE

DELICIOUS DESTINATIONS BRITISH BEVERAGES SPANISH SIPS SWEDISH FISHES ITALIAN DISHES

SOUVENIRS TO STEP ON RIVIERA: GLITTER & GLAM CAMERA READY

RETURN TO TAHITI

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WINDSTAR SOPHISTICATE

ADVERTISER INDEX A Ammolite by Korite International

47

Bill Panoff PUBLISHER

B Balissima by Effy Bulova

11 Inside Front Cover

C Cariloha 77 Colombian Emeralds International 37, 69

Linda Douthat ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Emma Trelles, Grant Balfour, Phillip Crandall MANAGING EDITORS Caroline Geertz, Laura Roche, James P. Karpinen ART DIRECTORS

D Dufry America

45

Maria Baro PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

E Effy Jewelers

5, 49

G Gabriel & Co. Georgios & Co. Fine Jewellery Glitter Jewelry

Tammy Robinson PRODUCTION MANAGER

17

Skip Anderson CREATIVE ASSISTANT

Inside Back Cover 71

Iris Gersh PROOFREADER

15

Ray Chatelin, Sarah Greaves-Gabbadon, Kevin Revolinski, Amy Roe, Cole Ruth, Richard Varr, Sarah Woods CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

K Kabana

M Majesty Jewelers Mark Henry Alexandrite Jewelry Collection Milano Diamond Gallery

2, 3 9 39, 57

O Orient Handmade Carpets

63

Alamy, eStock Photo, Getty Images CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Linda Douthat SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING William P. Jordan III SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, SALES AND MARKETING Audrey Balbiers VICE PRESIDENT Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Joseph Alexander DIRECTOR OF TECHNOLOGY Patti Lankford EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE CEO

Sophisticate c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters.

Printed in Canada. © 2013 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved.

Windstar Sophisticate is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected

31

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by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical,

Q Quattour by Colombian Emeralds

Jose I. Martin CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Please address all correspondence to Windstar

Corporate Headquarters: PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309, USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 • Fax: (954) 377-7000 Website: www.ppigroup.com Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com

P Philip Stein

Bill Panoff PRESIDENT/CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

55

William P. Jordan III SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, SALES AND MARKETING

R Rolex Back Cover The Royal Shop — Barbados 7

W Windstar Cruises 25 - 30, 79 Windstar Signature Shop — Roman Glass 1 Please refer to the individual display advertisement for additional locations and information.

photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography,

Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, MARKETING AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to editorial@ppigroup.com.

Commentary and opinions expressed in Windstar Sophisticate are not necessarily those of the publisher

Richard Collins, Brett Grady, Iris Rodriguez REGIONAL SALES MANAGERS

and cruise line. Windstar Cruises and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Windstar Sophisticate.

Paola Gomez SALES AND BRANDS MARKETING COORDINATOR

For cruise reservations call your travel agent or call Windstar Cruises at 800-258-7245.

Windstar13_005_Effy_Layout 1 3/20/13 12:54 PM Page 5

S I G N AT U R E C O L L E C T I O N Effy designs an eclectic mix of world-class fine jewelry.

Explore the Signature Collection — diamonds and precious gemstones boldly set in 14 karat gold.

E F F Y J E W E L R Y. C O M

Alaska

Aruba

Bahamas

Curaçao

Grand Cayman

Grand Turk

1.8 7 7. A S K .E F F Y

New York

Roatán

San Juan

St. Kitts

St. Lucia

St. Maarten

St. Thomas

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FEATURES 18

MEDITATIONS ON MOOREA One traveler rediscovers the beauty and culture of the South Pacific.

By Amy Roe

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I’LL DRINK TO THAT In the British Isles, you can tour age-old breweries, distilleries and vineyards while toasting to a tradition that dates back almost 2,000 years.

By Sarah Woods

40

PLATE TO PLATE How to Eat Like a Stockholmer.

By Cole Ruth

Contents

50

SALUD! Bordered by the Mediterranean, the wineries of southern Spain

DEPARTMENTS 4

ADVERTISER INDEX

8

MESSAGE FROM HANS BIRKHOLZ

10

LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

offer a sweet taste of tradition.

By Ray Chatelin 58

You can walk all over this souvenir, fit for a sultan.

By Kevin Revolinski

By Bill Panoff 12

WINDSTAR INSIGHTS

25

WINDSTAR VOYAGES

80

CAMERA READY Athens, Greece

AT YOUR FEET

64

MORE THAN MARINARA Say “Buon Giorno” to the regional cuisines of Italy.

By Sarah Greaves-Gabbadon

72

BEAUTY AND THE BEACH The French Riviera’s scenic coastlines and world-renowned glamour are open to all who wish to sample them.

By Richard Varr

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Welcome Aboard My Fellow World Traveler, Welcome aboard! Thank you for sailing with Windstar Cruises.

Whether you have sailed with us before, or are discovering the pleasures of Windstar for the first time, we hope your journey is every bit as exciting as your destination. I think you’ll quickly discover why Windstar is a unique cruise vacation — it’s a private yacht experience in a casually elegant setting, all while exploring some of the world’s most legendary destinations and hidden harbors.

I am excited to unveil all three completely renovated yachts for our 2013 season. Refreshed from stem-to-stern with a new contemporary level of luxury, even the tall white sails are brand new. At the same time, everything you love about Windstar is still there — and better than ever.

The personal level of service, the luxury as you like it ambience, the unique ports, all blended together to create the perfect yacht experience.

We invite you to stroll along the expansive teak deck, relax by the pool with a good book, visit the bridge and introduce yourself to the Captain or just enjoy the stunning surroundings. Savor exquisite cuisine of world-class chefs in AmphorA or dine alfresco under the stars at Candles. Pamper yourself with a Swedish massage in our blissful WindSpa or kayak from our watersports platform. After a day ashore sightseeing, join other guests for drinks or nightly entertainment in the Lounge. On one magical evening during the sailing, experience one of the greatest parties at sea — our signature deck barbecue. From grilled lobster to lamb chops to seafood paella cooked right on the deck, it’s sure to be a night you won’t forget.

Windstar continues to move full sail ahead with the expansion of the fleet. As you may have heard, we are doubling the size of our fleet with the addition of three small Seabourn ships in April 2014 and April 2015.

The addition of the three non-sailing yachts will allow us to sail to new destinations such as Asia and South America as well as expand on itineraries in the Mediterranean and Northern Europe. The opportunities of the expansion are already evident with Wind Spirit’s Dreams of Tahiti voyages in May of 2014. Tahiti has always been one of the top destinations requested by our guests and we are thrilled to return.

Our goal is to provide you with the finest small-ship experience at sea. I look forward to sharing our product with you. Wishing you a great trip on board!

Bon Voyage, Hans Birkholz President and CEO

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Set Sail in Style Welcome aboard, Windstar guests! As you settle comfortably into your stateroom and get to know your luxurious Windstar yacht, take a moment to savor the excitement of your much-anticipated voyage.

From exploring far-flung destinations to discovering the elegance that awaits on board, a Windstar cruise defines an unforgettable vacation.

In between your at-sea and on-land adventures, take time to relax with this issue of Sophisticate, which is certain to inspire future travels as you read about the intimate and culture-rich destinations Windstar visits, from the sleepy beauty of the Caribbean to the posh style of the Mediterranean to exotic locales throughout Europe — and the world.

In this issue, you’ll learn how to eat like a Stockholmer and the best way to purchase a Turkish carpet. You’ll visit legendary breweries in the British Isles and learn about the diverse wineries of southern Spain. The scenic coastlines of the French Riviera will be at your fingertips, as will the flavorful regional cuisines of Italy. And, in honor of Windstar Cruises’ upcoming return to Tahiti, we’ve included one traveler’s meditation on the rich history and beauty of the island of Moorea.

We’ve also brought you Windstar news and goings-on and a full page of gorgeous travel photography capturing Athens, Greece, one of Windstar’s many ports of call.

No matter where in the world you are cruising, enjoy every minute as you create memories that will last a lifetime. I bid you smooth sailings.

Bill Panoff Publisher

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BALISSIMA COLLECTION Effy designs an eclectic mix of world-class fine jewelry. Explore the look of Textures from the Balissima Collection — diamonds and gemstones exotically set in sterling silver.

E F F Y J E W E L R Y. C O M 1.8 7 7. A S K .E F F Y

Alaska

Aruba

Bahamas

Curaçao

Grand Cayman

Grand Turk

New York

Roatán

San Juan

St. Kitts

St. Lucia

St. Maarten

St. Thomas

Windstar13_012-16_upfront_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:22 AM Page 12

Windstar Insights WINDSTAR CRUISES EXPANDS FLEET We are thrilled to be doubling

The delivery of the three 104

of our brand experience, and the

all-suite ships, which hold 208

new ships are a perfect fit to build

passengers each, will unfold

on that foundation.”

the size of our fleet with the

over the next two years in the

acquisition of three Seabourn

Mediterranean. In April of 2014,

to which Windstar already sails,

ships on February 15, 2013:

Seabourn Pride will be the first

Global Windstar will bring guests

Seabourn Pride, Seabourn

ship to join Windstar’s luxury fleet,

to new regions of the world,

Legend and Seabourn Spirit.

following a renovation that will

such as Asia and South America.

This expansion, termed Global

christen the ship with a new name

Known for visiting the hidden

Windstar, will make Windstar

and a casually elegant look. Pride

harbors and secluded coves of

the market leader in small-ship

sets sail a month later, in May 2014,

the world, Windstar Cruises will

cruising with up to 300

and voyages are expected to go

continue to call on the intimate

passengers per voyage and

on sale in May 2013.

and unique destinations for which

a total of 1,230 berths.

“This expansion is the perfect

Windstar Cruises takes possession of Seabourn Legend

In addition to the 50 countries

it is known.

In the coming months, we

way to build on the momentum

in April 2015 and Seabourn Spirit

will reveal additional details,

of our recent fleet-wide renovation,

in May 2015; the latter is also

including the new ships’ names,

providing us with the capacity

the date these two yachts are

itineraries, onboard experiences

to match the accelerating demand

scheduled to commence sailing

and renovation details. For

for our intimate style of yacht

following their dry dock period.

the most up-to-date information,

cruising,” said Hans Birkholz, chief

“Windstar is proud of its

please visit WindstarCruises.com,

executive officer of Windstar

heritage in sailing and will

Windstar’s Facebook page

Cruises. “Global Windstar enables

continue to offer voyages on

(facebook.com/WindstarCruises)

us to extend our unique small-ship

all three sailing yachts,” added

and our blog

experience throughout the world.”

Birkholz. “This style is the core

(blog.windstarcruises.com).

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WINDSTAR CRUISES

warm breezes of the French

and travel partners," says

RETURNS TO TAHITI

Polynesia Islands.

Hans Birkholz, Windstar Cruises’

It’s official. On May 2, 2014, the

On Wind Spirit’s watersports

chief executive officer. "We’ve

recently renovated Wind Spirit will

platform, our guests can enjoy the

listened and made the decision

sail from Papeete, Tahiti, for 28, 7-

brilliant blue waters of the South

that now is the perfect time to

day voyages unfolding through

Pacific while paddle boarding,

come back to the beautiful

November 7, 2014. Afterwards,

kayaking, water skiing, wind

islands of French Polynesia."

Wind Spirit will winter in Panama

surfing, snorkeling and more.

and Costa Rica. Our return to the

Local entertainment, such as

French Polynesia Islands marks

traditional Tahitian dancers, will

the first time in nine years that

come aboard, and regional dishes

to announce that as part of a

Windstar Cruises has had a ship

will be served during Windstar’s

company-wide commitment

sailing in Tahiti.

signature deck barbecue, held

to classic, stylish luxury and

FLEET-WIDE RENOVATION Windstar Cruises is excited

under the sails and stars one

the private yacht experience,

in the paradise of Papeete,

night per cruise. Shore excursions

we’ve completed our $18 million

followed by calls on the five

will be tailored to offer guests

fleet-wide renovation project.

islands of Moorea, Tahaa, Raiatea,

both adventure and romance,

All three sailing yachts in

Huahine and Bora Bora. This will

delivered in true French

Windstar Cruises’ fleet have

be Wind Spirit’s first time in the

Polynesian style.

received a stem-to-stern

The week-long sailing will begin

South Pacific. With its tall

“Windstar’s return to Tahiti

refurbishment and combine

billowing sails, the French-built

has always been the number

modern décor with the signature,

yacht is ideal for cruising in the

one request from our guests

relaxed elegance for which our

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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line is known. The billowing white sails that are Windstar Cruises’ trademark have been replaced with more than 69,000 square feet of new, handcrafted sails, equivalent to 1.5 acres of fabric, and a complete redesign of the fleet’s staterooms and suites features new leather headboards, stately armchairs, plush wool carpeting, ocean-themed artwork and luxurious bedding.

As part of the fleet-wide refurbishment, Wind Star, our 148passenger ship, now combines earth tones and marine colors

AmphorA

with warm wood finishes in all of its Wind Surf, the fleet’s 310-

new furnishings, upholstery, wall and

passenger flagship yacht, also

floor coverings,

offers cool seascape palettes in

window treatments

its redesign, along with rich wood

and ceiling finishes.

finishes and high-end furnishings.

Alfresco seating (for

The main dining room has been

sunset dining) has

transformed to a wholly new

been expanded at

cuisine experience, now known as

Candles Grill and a

AmphorA restaurant. With a floor-

new awning and

to-ceiling, state-of-the-art wine

deck furniture have

display welcoming passengers into

also been added. The

an ample seating layout, AmphorA

Library is now

introduces a fresh menu that

enhanced with the

spotlights local dishes and select

polished woods

ingredients such as ling cod, quail

found throughout

and porcini and truffle fettucini.

the ship.

STELLA BISTRO

Wind Spirit, a 148-

Exclusive to Wind Star, this

passenger ship, joins

14

its sister ship Wind

contemporary dining room seats

Star with modern

86 guests and offers signature

design features and

cuisines with a French flair.

luxurious furnishings.

Stella Bistro’s name was derived

A sparkling sculpture welcomes

from the Latin word for “star,” a

guests in the all-new reception

and lunch, the Veranda gives

tribute to our latest restaurant’s

area, and staterooms boast the

guests a live-action cooking

special epicurean allure. New

same fine-count, Egyptian cotton

station and filters sunlight

furniture, flooring, classic and

sheets found throughout the fleet.

through wide plantation shutters

contemporary pendant lighting

A favorite eatery for breakfast

for an airy, outdoor feel.

and an eclectic mix of antique

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Š KABANA. All designs protected by copyright laws. All rights reserved. Reproduction/Duplication prohibited.

Windstar13_015_Kabana_Layout 1 3/20/13 12:58 PM Page 15

CHOCOLATE COLLECTION bronze mother of pearl and yellow gold

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Windstar13_012-16_upfront_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:22 AM Page 16

NEW VOYAGES FOR 2013 A new era begins for Windstar Cruises as we introduce our 2013 collection of luxury sailing voyages in the Caribbean, Costa Rica, Northern Europe, Italy and the islands of Greece, and our trans-Atlantic crossings.

Highlighting Windstar’s new offerings for 2013 are seven entirely new voyages to extraordinary destinations like Casablanca, Dublin, southern Spain and more.

The 2013 schedule mirrors and vintage photographs infuses

features two

Stella Bistro

11-day voyages:

Stella Bistro’s one-

Scandinavian

of-a-kind ambience.

Tapestry, a scenic sailing in the

We’ve created a French-flavored

Norwegian fjords

menu, featuring

and Stockholm

entrees such as

archipelago, and

Coquille St. Jacques

Footsteps of Faith,

Provencale, a

which travels

seared-and-

through the Holy

skewered scallops

Lands and explores

dish served on

world religions.

pappardelle and tossed with

French pastry layered in creamy

The latter is one of three new

artichoke hearts, spinach and

chocolate and praline.

Mediterranean voyages.

capers in a delicate white wine

The remaining two Mediterranean itineraries are the 7-day voyages

the Stella Bistro dining experience,

the Roasted Magret of Duck, duck

and guests may choose to include

of Treasures of Southern France,

breast and confit with cherry

wines paired with their meals.

which sails between Nice and

sauce paired with Parisienne

Three different wines are served

Barcelona, and Casablanca &

potatoes and French beans.

in combination with the appetizer,

the Canary Islands, a blend of

entrée and dessert, and all

mysticism and serenity that

include escargots bourguignon,

onboard vintages are carefully

begins in Lisbon and includes

cream of wild mushroom soup,

selected by the ship’s executive

ports of call in Casablanca and

and goat cheese soufflé. Windstar

chef. This winter season, for the

Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

guests can also indulge in a

first time, we will offer European

delightful array of desserts

wines by the glass; passengers

indulge in intimate explorations of

such as apple aumoniere — a

can enjoy a rich French Burgundy

the British Isles, the Rivieras, Italy

combination of apples, marzipan

or crisp pinot grigio, in addition

& the Dalmatian Coast, and the

and honey baked into a filo pastry

to the extensive American region

Baltic. For details and dates of all

and served in vanilla custard — or

offerings typically served in

of our voyages, please turn to our

chocolate Napoleon, the iconic

the Caribbean.

2013 Voyage Guide on page 25. n

Other delectable menu choices

16

Wine is an important part of

sauce. Another standout entrée is

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Windstar guests can also

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e nvy b a n g l e s

BOUTIQUE SILVER COLLECTION GABRIELNY.COM

Boutique Silver Bangle Designs © 2011

Justin Lewis/Getty Images

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Photo court esy of Tahiti Tourism e

Windstar13_018-23_Tahiti_Layout 1 3/21/13 10:55 AM Page 19

Moorea

meditations on

One traveler rediscovers the beauty and culture of the South Pacific.

By Amy Roe

F

or as long as I can remember, I

have been obsessed with French Polynesia. Before I was married, I lived in Fort Lauderdale and frequented

the Mai-Kai, a sprawling Polynesian-

themed restaurant with flickering torches,

tikis, waterfalls, a weekly floor show of dancers and a dining room named Moorea, after the Tahitian island.

In the Mai-Kai’s dimly lit lounge, I

nursed cocktails festooned with purple Phalaenopsis orchids and dreamed of setting foot on the real Moorea. But what was it that I really dreamed of, when I dreamed of this faraway island?

sy courte Photo

e urism iti To of Tah

Years later, when my husband and I traveled to Tahiti for our honeymoon, I was determined to find out.

Photo courtesy of Tahiti Tourisme

Windstar13_018-23_Tahiti_Layout 1 3/21/13 10:55 AM Page 20

Honeymooners don traditional garb at the Tiki Village.

T

he moment we arrived in Tahiti’s capital, Papeete, I was

where Rico was born and has lived ever since. “Whiiiiite Taheeetian,” he

overwhelmed by the aroma

repeated. It sounded like a drink at the Mai-Kai.

of the tiare, the country’s national flower. The fragrance was familiar; the tiare is a smaller, more delicate cousin of the hothouse-grown gardenia that I’d worn in my hair at our wedding a day earlier.

In Polynesia, this is symbolic. Worn

T

he next morning, the crowing of roosters that roam free around the island provided our wake-up call. We’d arrived at the hotel in darkness, and though we’d slept only a few hours, we were too

eager for a glimpse of the place to stay in bed.

We spent the day in a daze, shuffling around the pool and staring up

at the gray and verdant green mountains that rise from the island’s

behind the right ear, a flower signals

interior like the spine of a dinosaur. I marveled at the resort’s lobby,

the wearer is available. Worn behind

which had no walls, only a roof made of two thatched cones.

the left, the wearer is attached. I

It’s often said that more people visit Hawaii in ten days than visit all

didn’t realize this when my hair

of Tahiti in a year, and the exclusivity is palpable. The tawny sand

stylist secured the pale blossom

that fringed the lagoon looked so smooth and fine that it appeared

behind my left ear at my wedding.

airbrushed into existence. Rising early one morning, I realized this

Luckily, we’d gotten it right.

unblemished complexion was no coincidence; each day at dawn, workers

After a 20-minute flight to Moorea, which lies 12 miles west of

20

Rico explained that his parents were Swiss but had moved to Moorea,

raked away any strands of seaweed that washed ashore overnight.

And yet, there are islands within islands. After two nights in a garden

Tahiti and is also accessible by

bungalow, we were upgraded to an overwater bungalow, the ne plus ultra

ferry, we were greeted by a short,

of tropical accommodations. The bungalow’s floors and beams were made

stout man with a van. “My name is

from varnished tropical hardwood, and with water all around, it felt like

Rico,” he announced, “and I am

being in the spacious cabin of a luxury sailboat, complete with a porthole.

white Tahitian.”

A window was set into the floor, topped with a clear glass coffee table,

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© Blaine Harrington III/Alamy

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Tahiti

The biggest and most

populated of the Polynesian islands, Tahiti is divided between Tahiti Nui and Tahiti Iti. The former is anchored by the bustling port of Papeete, filled with cafes, toney shops, and markets, such as the Marche du Papeete. In contrast, the latter is sprinkled with little villages, lagoons and waterfalls, secluded beaches and archeological sites. Stop at One Tree Hills for stellar views of Matavi Bay and its surrounding verdant beauty.

Moorea

Accessible via a half hour ferry

ride from Papeete, this sleepy, pristine island, part of a larger archipelago called the Society Islands, is the perfect place to unplug and unwind. Shop for local crafts, pearls, or a pareau (a silk Photo courtesy of Tahiti Tourism e

tropical wrap) at Le Petit Village, or rent a scooter at the pier and take off to Belvedere Lookout, which offers sweeping views of Cook’s Bay and Mt. Rotui, as well as a hiking trail to a few ancient temples. These marae are covered in moss and vines and boast a pair of relatively intact archery Photo courte sy of Tahiti Tou risme

platforms. Draw close to aquatic life with tours that keep watch for dolphins or whales; 25 species of the latter swim in the waters of Moorea. The food trucks, or les Roulettes, found at Vai’ete Square offer the best (and most sumptuous) bargains; they line up at night and offer Tahitian pizza, cracked crab, barbecue calf and other local dishes.

Oceanside lodgings — Tahitian-style

e ourism ahiti T sy of T ourte c to Pho

© amana images inc./Alamy

Windstar13_018-23_Tahiti_Layout 1 3/21/13 10:55 AM Page 22

Best way to explore? 4x4 on land (left), mask and fins under the sea (right). the better to see the fish in the water below.

My husband Dan donned his

Frenchman named Sebastian. Although he was not Tahitian, Sebastian had embraced a native custom; his arms were ringed with Polynesian-

snorkeling gear and hopped

style tattoos of sea turtles. In traditional Polynesia, young Tahitian men

into the lagoon, while I moved

often get tattoos in adolescence as a sign of coming-of-age.

the coffee table and got the

In fact, the word tattoo comes from the Tahitian word tatau and

camera. I snapped his picture,

Polynesians are thought to be among the most gifted practitioners

and he waved at me from

of this ancient art form. Elaborate tattoos, often with repeating

beneath the rectangle of glass,

geometric patterns, are amassed over a lifetime, revealing the wearer’s

his face smooshed by the mask

family, region and status, a life’s story written on the body. Although

like a diver in an aquarium.

Christian missionaries banned the practice, calling it primitive and

We spent hours swimming among the vivid orange and

claiming it went against the Bible, they couldn’t stamp it out entirely.

As I sipped my second rum cocktail, it occurred to me that the

white clownfish and emperor

traditional practice of tattoo, once the scourge of white Europeans on the

angel fish with their op-art

islands, was now being displayed by one. History had come full circle.

stripes; even the odd manta

22

The bar had a round, thatched roof and was staffed by a jaunty

Or had it? By the 1890s, Christian missionaries and opportunistic

ray glided by. Some days we

colonial settlers had already populated the place, banning native

never actually set foot on land,

Polynesia culture in the name of “civilization.” This clash can be seen

venturing only as far as the

in paintings of this era, which sometimes portrayed Tahitian women in

overwater bar at the Y-shaped

conservative, high-collared, long-sleeved dresses brought to them by

wooden walkway that led to

missionaries. Yet, dresses in this style are still worn in Tahiti today, even

our bungalow.

if mostly to church on Sunday.

|

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Windstar13_018-23_Tahiti_Layout 1 3/21/13 10:55 AM Page 23

D

espite Sebastian’s killer cocktails and the paradisiacal setting

Tahaa

of our bungalow, we wondered what else we might be missing.

The tiny island is accessible

For about $50 per day, we rented a dented red motor scooter

and embarked on a circle tour of the island. There’s just one road

only by boat and is famed

around the perimeter of Moorea, and it’s about 36 miles long, paved

for its soft-as-talc sand. The

and well maintained, with only a few potholes.

diving and snorkeling here is lauded as some of the best

We set out to explore every bit of it. Donning helmets (les casques) per local law, we zoomed through a pineapple plantation in search of

in the world. Don a mask and

ancient sacred sites known as marae.

fins for a float over the Coral Garden, a channel that runs

These cleared rectangular spaces are often bordered with stones or wooden posts and dedicated to specific deities. Abandoned with the

between a pair of motus

arrival of Christianity in Tahiti, marae are now relics of a bygone time.

(little islands) and serves as

Though no longer used for religious practices, many are marked with

home to hundreds of species

historical signs for tourists and those with an interest in archaeology.

of brightly-hued fish and coral.

As we wound our way up to the legendary vista called Belvedere

For land excursions, remember

Point, where Cook’s Bay and Oponohue Bay shimmer in the sun

that vanilla is Tahaa’s principal

between the lush, vertiginous slopes of Mt. Rotui, we stopped at several

crop and its sweetness scents

of these ancient temples. One even contained an archery platform;

the air; a visit to one of the

ancient Polynesians are said to have used bows and arrows for sport,

family-run plantations that

not hunting. In these enigmatic respites, shaded by the lush tropical

grow it is a must.

foliage that sprung up from the mountainside, I wondered what visitors,

Raiatea

rituals and celebrations the blue-gray rocks had seen.

The second largest island

For lunch we stopped at Snack Rotui, a walk-up snack bar, situated at the breezy edge of Cook’s Bay in Pau Pau, that we’d learned of from

(after Tahiti) in French

a guidebook and online traveler reviews. There, in plastic chairs set up

Polynesia offers 100-plus

under an awning, we ate cheap but tasty baguette sandwiches, and

square miles of rugged

through a straw, Dan sipped from a chilled coconut.

tranquility and exemplary horseback riding across the

Finally came the reason my husband had insisted we seek out Snack Rotui: The moist and yellow cake topped with chocolate

green slopes of Mt. Tamahani,

pudding, exactly as described in our guidebook. Although it may not

the only place on the planet

sound traditional, the meal was typical of the simple “plate lunch” style

where the rare Tiare Apetahi

food found in Hawaii and around the South Pacific.

flower grows. Rent a fourwheel drive and hit the back roads along Faaora Bay, which pass plantations and Taputaputea Marea, a 16th century meeting ground devoted to Oro, the God of War. Divers will want to delve into the perfectly blue-green lagoons enclosing the Sacred

Feast at les Roulettes, Papeete

es Holger Leue/Getty Imag

Island (Raiatea’s other moniker) for an up-close look at lion fish, purple coral, or the wreck of the Norsby, a Danish 3-masted ship sunk at the turn of the 20th century.

Windstar13_018-23_Tahiti_Layout 1 3/21/13 10:55 AM Page 24

Huahine

Comprised of two smaller

islands, Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti, Huahine is noted for its charming lack of bustle and its lush mountains. Its chief village, Fare, offers small shops and eateries, and it’s from here you can grab a free ferry to Huahine Nui Pearls and Pottery, which claims itself as the island’s only pearl farm, a place where visitors can learn about the cultivation of black pearls and the creation of clay pottery by the eight families who live and work there. Also near Fare: Huahine’s mystical eels, hand fed by locals and

© Siegfried Tauqueur/eS tock Photo

Tahiti urtesy of Photo co

Tourisme

visitors alike.

Bora Bora

The two soaring peaks of

Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu anchor the center of French Polynesia’s most famed island, which is enjoyably explored on

Left: Cook’s Bay; Right: Tahitian ladies in their Sunday best.

at the pier in Vaitape; it takes

shipped — like boxed mixes and canned meats — with local ingredients

about four hours to circle the

like fish and fresh fruits and vegetables. Often, this fare shows the

entire island, but, of course,

influence of ethnic groups that have traveled through or settled in the

you’ll want to make some

Pacific islands, including Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese immigrants.

stops along the way. Coast

We’d just set down our plastic forks when a bartender from the resort,

24

bicycle and scooter starting

The cuisine mixes modern convenience foods that can be stored and

into Matira Beach, where you

now off duty, roared up in a most unusual vehicle. Emblazoned with

can peacefully snorkel in a

green racing stripes and the words IZOD on the side, his island ride can

sandy-bottom lagoon, then

only be described as the preppiest dune buggy I’ve ever seen.

venture towards Povai Bay,

After ushering two young children out of the vehicle, he unlatched an

which offers the best views on

infant from a child carrier in the back seat, the baby seemingly unfazed

the island. Afterwards, head to

by the open-air ride. I smiled at my husband, who smiled back. This was

Bloody Mary’s Restaurant &

not at all what we’d expected to find on Moorea. But maybe that was

Bar, a lively and laid back

the point. Looking back, I no longer recall what it was I dreamed of,

eatery where you can nosh on

when I dreamed of Moorea, because the island was better than I could

fresh fish, breadfruit and a

have imagined. n

blossom-topped mai tai.

|

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W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S

VOYAGE COLLECTION APRIL 2013—MARCH 2014

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S .CO M | 8 0 0 -2 5 8 -7 24 5

Windstar13_025-30_WindstarCX2_Layout 1 3/27/13 10:31 AM Page 26

SPLENDORS OF SOUTHERN SPAIN

New

MEDITERRANEAN

TREASURES OF SOUTHERN FRANCE

8 Days

7 Days

Lisbon to Barcelona (or reverse)

Nice to Barcelona (or reverse)

Discover Spain’s coastal jewels, a unique blend of east and west, which infuse your senses with the sights, tastes, and temptations of this magical region.

The French have a word for it. In fact, they have several — idyllique, seduisant, magnifique. Idyllic. Seductive. Stunning. Here is la belle France at her best.

2013 DEPARTURES

2013 DEPARTURES

Lisbon, CĂĄdiz, MĂĄlaga, AlmerĂ­a, Cartagena, Valencia, SĂłller, Barcelona

GLITTER & GLAM OF THE RIVIERAS

April 21 June 18 September 23 October 26 November 1

PORTS OF CALL

Nice, Cannes, Sanary-sur-Mer, Marseille, Sète, Port-Vendres, Palamós, Barcelona

FOOTSTEPS OF FAITH I

7 Days

11 Days

Barcelona to Rome (or reverse)

Athens to Alexandria

Enjoy the world’s premier yachting playgrounds aboard your own sailing ship. Indulge yourself in legendary ports.

2013 DEPARTURES

July 13, 20

New

PORTS OF CALL

PORTS OF CALL

Barcelona, Marseille, Monte Carlo, Cannes, PortoďŹ no, Portoferraio, Rome

Voyage through the Holy Land, origin of the world’s great faiths, from the mythologies of ancient Greece to the Islamic and JudeoChristian traditions of today.

2013 DEPARTURES October 5

See also 14-day round trip Athens to Athens in Greek Isles & Turkey section

ENCHANTING GREECE & THE AMALFI COAST

New

April 13, 20 June 25 November 2, 8

PORTS OF CALL

Athens, Patmos, Kusadasi, Rhodes, Antalya, Larnaca, Haifa, Jerusalem/ Ashdod, Alexandria

CASABLANCA & THE CANARY ISLANDS

7 Days

7 Days

Rome to Athens (or reverse)

Lisbon to Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Captivating history, idyllic islands, charming cobbled villages.

Capture the best of the Mediterranean in a single voyage.

From the magic of Morocco to the tropical serenity of the Canary Islands, this voyage is a perfect blend of indulgences.

2013 DEPARTURES

2013 DEPARTURES

April 27 June 22 August 24 October 19, 26

PORTS OF CALL

Rome, Capri, Lipari, Giardini Naxos BO]`[W\O Gythion, MonemvasĂ­a, Athens

ISLANDS OF THE WEST MED 6 Days Barcelona to Rome (or reverse)

This collection of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful and haunting islands is a yachtsman’s fantasy.

2013 DEPARTURES April 28 November 2

PORTS OF CALL

Barcelona, SĂłller, Alghero, PortoVecchio, Portoferraio, Rome

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S .CO M | 8 0 0 - 2 5 8 -7 24 5

November 16

PORTS OF CALL

Lisbon, Casablanca, Agadir, Lanzarote, Las Palmas, Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Windstar13_025-30_WindstarCX2_Layout 1 3/27/13 10:31 AM Page 27

New

NORTHERN EUROPE

EUROPE’S WEST COAST ODYSSEY

ISLANDS OF ITALY

8 Days

7 Days

Lisbon to London (or reverse)

Round trip Rome

Fine port wines, sculptured coastlines, the quiet heroism of history. This is the best of Europe’s West Coast.

2013 DEPARTURES

New

July 3 September 7

ITALY

PORTS OF CALL

Lisbon, Porto, Vigo, A Coruña, Brest, St.-Malo, Cherbourg, London

Experience Italy beyond the crowds and tourists. Discover the enchanted islands and hidden coves Italians keep for themselves.

2013 DEPARTURES April 28 June 29 August 3

PORTS OF CALL

Rome, Capri, Sorrento, Lipari, Stromboli (scenic cruise), Porto-Vecchio, Portoferraio, Rome

IDYLLIC BRITISH ISLES 7 Days

CLASSIC ITALY & DALMATIAN COAST

London to Dublin (or reverse)

Sail the beautiful coasts of England, Wales, and Ireland, the inspiration of authors, artists, and poets.

2013 DEPARTURES

New

July 11 August 31

7 or 8 Days

PORTS OF CALL

London, Dartmouth, Falmouth, Isles of Scilly, Pembroke, Waterford, Holyhead, Dublin

GAELIC EXPLORERS 7 Days Edinburgh to Dublin

Rome to Venice (or reverse)

Enjoy la dolce vita as you join Italy’s elite along the sun-drenched shores of Croatia, Montenegro, and Capri.

2013 DEPARTURES May 5, 13 June 4*, 11* September 30 October 24

PORTS OF CALL

Rome, Capri, Messina, Kotor, Dubrovnik, Split, Rovinj, Venice *June 4 and 11 departures are 7 days and do not visit Kotor

From the castles of Edinburgh to the pubs of Dublin, journey through hills and highlands, idyllic islands, and lyrical landscapes.

2013 DEPARTURES August 24

PORTS OF CALL

BEST OF THE BALTIC 8 Days Round trip Stockholm

Witness the convergence of Baltic history, traditional culture, and modern architecture, capped by an overnight in St. Petersburg.

2013 DEPARTURES

New

August 5

YACHTING THE RIVIERA

Edinburgh, Peterhead, Invergordon, Stromness, Portrush, Isle of Man, Dublin

PORTS OF CALL

7 Days Nice to Rome (or reverse)

Live the dream of the Italian and French Rivieras, where it feels like you’re on your own private yacht in a yachtsman’s paradise.

2013 DEPARTURES May 21, 28 July 6 August 10, 17

PORTS OF CALL

Nice, Monte Carlo, Calvi, Cannes, Portofino, Portovenere, Portoferraio, Rome

Stockholm, Mariehamn, St. Petersburg, Helsinki, Tallinn, Sandhamn, Stockholm

SCANDINAVIAN TAPESTRY 11 Days Edinburgh to Stockholm (or reverse)

Stunning beauty of Norway’s fjords surrounds you; sparkling Scandinavian capitals delight you; charming villages capture your heart.

2013 DEPARTURES July 25 August 13

PORTS OF CALL

Edinburgh, Kristiansand, Oslo, Skagen, Copenhagen, Warnemünde, Visby, Sandhamn, Stockholm

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S .CO M | 8 0 0 - 2 5 8 -7 24 5

Windstar13_025-30_WindstarCX2_Layout 1 3/27/13 10:31 AM Page 28

GREEK ISLES & TURKEY

GREEK ISLES & TURKISH DELIGHTS

YACHTSMAN’S CARIBBEAN

7 Days

7 Days

Athens to Istanbul (or reverse)

Round trip St. Maarten

Explore the hidden delights of the Greek Isles, the Turkish coasts, and the greatest icons of civilization on this, our signature voyage.

2013 DEPARTURES

New

May 4, 11, 18, 25 June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 July 6, 13, 20, 27 August 10, 17, 24, 31 September 7, 14, 21, 28 October 5, 12, 19

PORTS OF CALL

Athens, Mykonos, Santorini, Rhodes, Bodrum, Kusadasi, Istanbul

October 5

See also 11-day trip Athens to Alexandria in Mediterranean section

Discover a yachtsman’s paradise while visiting exclusive ports like glamorous St. Barts and the enchanting British Virgin Islands.

2013/2014 DEPARTURES November 24, 2013 December 7, 21, 2013 January 4, 18, 2014 February 1, 15, 2014 March 1, 15, 29, 2014

PORTS OF CALL

Philipsburg, Falmouth Harbour, Soper’s Hole, Jost Van Dyke, Virgin Gorda, Gustavia, Philipsburg

FLAVORS OF THE CARIBBEAN FOOTSTEPS OF FAITH II

7 Days Round trip St. Maarten

14 Days

Flavors, cultures, and colors of the Caribbean’s distinct and diverse heritage combine to make this voyage a delight for the senses.

Round trip Athens

2013/2014 DEPARTURES

Voyage through the Holy Land, origin of the world’s great faiths, from the mythologies of ancient Greece to the Islamic and JudeoChristian traditions of today.

2013 DEPARTURES

CARIBBEAN & PANAMA CANAL

December 14, 2013 January 11, 25, 2014 February 8, 2014 March 8, 22, 2014

PORTS OF CALL

Philipsburg, Le Marin, Pigeon Island, Roseau, Les Saintes, Bassèterre, Philipsburg

JEWELS OF THE WINDWARD ISLANDS

PORTS OF CALL

Athens, Patmos, Kusadasi, Rhodes, Antalya, Larnaca, Haifa, Jerusalem/ Ashdod, Alexandria, Athens

7 Days Round trip Barbados

Discover the enchanting magic of St. Vincent & the Grenadines, the way it used to be. Perfect beaches. Crystalline waters. Amazing snorkeling. It’s all here. All yours.

2013/2014 DEPARTURES

TRANSATLANTIC CROSSINGS

December 14, 21, 28, 2013 January 4, 11, 18, 25, 2014 February 1, 8, 15, 22, 2014 March 1, 8, 15, 2014

PORTS OF CALL

Bridgetown, Pigeon Island, St. George’s, Tobago Cays, Mayreau, Bequia, Bridgetown

PASSAGE THROUGH PANAMA

TRANSATLANTIC CROSSINGS

7 Days Puerto Caldera to ColĂłn (or reverse)

Transit the Panama Canal, a marvel of the modern world, in a sailing yacht that lets you see it all.

Reconnect and recharge as you experience the peaceful grandeur of sailing across the Atlantic Ocean.

2013 DEPARTURES

Wind Spirit: November 10, 2013 (Lisbon to St. Maarten) – 14 days Wind Surf: November 23, 2013 (Santa Cruz de Tenerife to St. Maarten) – 14 days Wind Spirit: December 1, 2013 (St. Maarten to Colón) – 7 days

2013/2014 DEPARTURES December 8, 15, 22, 29, 2013 January 5, 12, 19, 26, 2014 February 2, 16, 23, 2014 March 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 2014

PORTS OF CALL

Puerto Caldera, BahĂ­a Drake, >cS`b] ?cS^]a 5]ZTWb], Isla dS Coiba, Bransit Panama Canal, ColĂłn

NATURALLY COSTA RICA 7 Days Round trip Puerto Caldera

Dive, kayak, hike or photograph your way through some of the world’s most diverse and exotic wildlife destinations.

2014 DEPARTURES February 9, 2014

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S .CO M | 8 0 0 - 2 5 8 -7 24 5 4 W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S .C O M | 8 0 0 - 2 5 8 -7 24 5

PORTS OF CALL

Puerto Caldera, San Juan del Sur, Playas del Coco, >cS`b] Quepos, BahĂ­a Drake, CurĂş, Tortuga Island, Puerto Caldera

Windstar13_025-30_Windstar_Layout 1 3/20/13 1:03 PM Page 29

2 0 1 3 / 2 0 1 4 S A I L I N G S AT A G L A N C E APRIL 2013 SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF

4/13/13 4/13/13 4/20/13 4/21/13 4/27/13 4/28/13 4/28/13

MAY 2013 SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF

5/4/13 5/5/13 5/11/13 5/11/13 5/13/13 5/18/13 5/18/13 5/21/13 5/25/13 5/25/13 5/28/13

JUNE 2013 STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT

6/1/13 6/1/13 6/4/13 6/8/13 6/8/13 6/11/13 6/15/13 6/15/13 6/18/13 6/22/13 6/22/13 6/25/13 6/29/13 6/29/13

JULY 2013 SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT

7/3/13 7/6/13 7/6/13 7/11/13 7/13/13 7/13/13 7/20/13 7/20/13 7/25/13 7/27/13

AUGUST 2013

STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF

8/3/13 8/5/13 8/10/13 8/10/13 8/13/13 8/17/13 8/17/13 8/24/13 8/24/13 8/24/13 8/31/13 8/31/13 8/31/13

DAYS

Splendors of Southern Spain Splendors of Southern Spain Splendors of Southern Spain Glitter & Glam of the Rivieras Enchanting Greece & the Amalfi Coast Islands of the West Med Islands of Italy

Lisbon to Barcelona Lisbon to Barcelona Lisbon to Barcelona Barcelona to Rome Rome to Athens Barcelona to Rome Rome to Rome

8 8 8 7 7 6 7

Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Classic Italy & Dalmatian Coast Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Classic Italy & Dalmatian Coast Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Yachting the Riviera Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Yachting the Riviera

Athens to Istanbul Rome to Venice Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Venice to Rome Istanbul to Athens Athens to Istanbul Rome to Nice Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Nice to Rome

7 8 7 7 8 7 7 7 7 7 7

Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Classic Italy & Dalmatian Coast Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Classic Italy & Dalmatian Coast Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Glitter & Glam of the Rivieras Enchanting Greece & the Amalfi Coast Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Splendors of Southern Spain Islands of Italy Greek Isles & Turkish Delights

Istanbul to Athens Athens to Istanbul Rome to Venice Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Venice to Rome Istanbul to Athens Athens to Istanbul Rome to Barcelona Athens to Rome Istanbul to Athens Barcelona to Lisbon Rome to Rome Athens to Istanbul

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 8 7 7

Europe’s West Coast Odyssey Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Yachting the Riviera Idyllic British Isles Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Treasures of Southern France Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Treasures of Southern France Scandinavian Tapestry Greek Isles & Turkish Delights

Lisbon to London Istanbul to Athens Rome to Nice London to Dublin Athens to Istanbul Nice to Barcelona Istanbul to Athens Barcelona to Nice Edinburgh to Stockholm Athens to Istanbul

8 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 11 7

Islands of Italy Best of the Baltic Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Yachting the Riviera Scandinavian Tapestry Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Yachting the Riviera Enchanting Greece & the Amalfi Coast Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Gaelic Explorers Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Idyllic British Isles

Rome to Rome Stockholm to Stockholm Athens to Istanbul Rome to Nice Stockholm to Edinburgh Istanbul to Athens Nice to Rome Rome to Athens Athens to Istanbul Edinburgh to Dublin Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Dublin to London

7 8 7 7 11 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7

Istanbul to Athens Athens to Istanbul London to Lisbon Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Istanbul to Athens Athens to Istanbul Barcelona to Rome Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Rome to Venice

7 7 8 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 8

SEPTEMBER 2013 STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF

9/7/13 9/7/13 9/7/13 9/14/13 9/14/13 9/21/13 9/21/13 9/23/13 9/28/13 9/28/13 9/30/13

Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Europe’s West Coast Odyssey Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Glitter & Glam of the Rivieras Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Classic Italy & Dalmatian Coast

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S .CO M | 8 0 0 - 2 5 8 -7 24 5

Windstar13_025-30_Windstar_Layout 1 3/20/13 1:03 PM Page 30

2 0 1 3 / 2 0 1 4 S A I L I N G S AT A G L A N C E STAR SPIRIT SPIRIT STAR STAR SPIRIT SURF SPIRIT STAR

10/5/13 10/5/13 10/5/13 10/12/13 10/19/13 10/19/13 10/24/13 10/26/13 10/26/13

Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Footsteps of Faith I Footsteps of Faith II Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Greek Isles & Turkish Delights Enchanting Greece & the Amalfi Coast Classic Italy & Dalmatian Coast Glitter & Glam of the Rivieras Enchanting Greece & the Amalfi Coast

7 11 14 7 7 7 8 7 7

Rome to Barcelona Barcelona to Lisbon Rome to Barcelona Barcelona to Lisbon Barcelona to Lisbon Lisbon to St. Maarten Lisbon to Santa Cruz de Tenerife Santa Cruz de Tenerife to St. Maarten St. Maarten to St. Maarten

7 8 6 8 8 14 7 14 7

St. Maarten to Colón Philipsburg to Philipsburg Colón to Puerto Caldera Philipsburg to Philipsburg Bridgetown to Bridgetown Puerto Caldera to Colón Philipsburg to Philipsburg Bridgetown to Bridgetown Colón to Puerto Caldera Bridgetown to Bridgetown Puerto Caldera to Colón

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7

Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Colón to Puerto Caldera Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Colón Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Colón to Puerto Caldera Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Colón

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7

Jewels of the Windward Islands Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Flavors of the Caribbean Naturally Costa Rica Jewels of the Windward Islands Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Passage Through Panama

Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Colón to Puerto Caldera Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Puerto Caldera Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Colón Bridgetown to Bridgetown Colón to Puerto Caldera

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7

Jewels of the Windward Islands Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Flavors of the Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Flavors of the Caribbean Passage Through Panama Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama

Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Colón Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Colón to Puerto Caldera Bridgetown to Bridgetown Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Colón Philipsburg to Philipsburg Colón to Puerto Caldera Philipsburg to Philipsburg Puerto Caldera to Colón

7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7

NOVEMBER 2013

SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF SURF SPIRIT

11/1/13 11/2/13 11/2/13 11/8/13 11/8/13 11/10/13 11/16/13 11/23/13 11/24/13

Glitter & Glam of the Rivieras Splendors of Southern Spain Islands of the West Med Splendors of Southern Spain Splendors of Southern Spain Transatlantic Casablanca & the Canary Islands Transatlantic Yachtsman’s Caribbean

DECEMBER 2013 SPIRIT SURF SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT SURF STAR SPIRIT STAR SPIRIT

12/1/13 12/7/13 12/8/13 12/14/13 12/14/13 12/15/13 12/21/13 12/21/13 12/22/13 12/28/13 12/29/13

Transatlantic Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Flavors of the Caribbean Jewels of the Windward Islands Passage Through Panama Yachtsman’s Caribbean Jewels of the Windward Islands Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Passage Through Panama

JANUARY 2014 STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT

1/4/14 1/4/14 1/5/14 1/11/14 1/11/14 1/12/14 1/18/14 1/18/14 1/19/14 1/25/14 1/25/14 1/26/14

Jewels of the Windward Islands Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Flavors of the Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Yachtsman’s Caribbean Passage Through Panama Jewels of the Windward Islands Flavors of the Caribbean Passage Through Panama

FEBRUARY 2014 STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SPIRIT

2/1/14 2/1/14 2/2/14 2/8/14 2/8/14 2/9/14 2/15/14 2/15/14 2/16/14 2/22/14 2/23/14

MARCH 2014 STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT STAR SURF SPIRIT SURF SPIRIT SURF SPIRIT

3/1/14 3/1/14 3/2/14 3/8/14 3/8/14 3/9/14 3/15/14 3/15/14 3/16/14 3/22/14 3/23/14 3/29/14 3/30/14

DAYS

Istanbul to Athens Athens to Alexandria Athens to Athens Athens to Istanbul Istanbul to Athens Athens to Rome Venice to Rome Rome to Barcelona Athens to Rome

WINDSTAR CRUISES | 2101 - 4th Avenue, Suite 210 | Seattle, WA 98121 WindstarCruises.com | 800-258-7245

12-193/1.17.13

OCTOBER 2013

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Windstar13_032-38_Brit_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:43 AM Page 32

I’ll Drink to That

By Sarah Woods

In the British Isles, you can tour age-old breweries, distilleries and vineyards while toasting to a tradition that dates back almost 2,000 years.

The Temple Bar, Dublin

SIME/eStock Photo

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Facing their choice of several

ciders, plus an array of exceptional

where George Washington’s

thousand vineyards, distilleries

white, red, rosé and sparkling

great-great grandfather, the

and breweries scattered among

wines cultivated since the 1970s.

Reverend Lawrence Washington,

the British Isles’ green pastures

Learn about the wine-making

and rugged headlands, visiting

process at an authentic working

was removed from office by the

cruisers with a thirst to quench

vineyard under the tutelage of a

Puritans for tippling too much of

are thoroughly spoiled.

viticulture veteran, or try some

the local brew!

Select from honey-hued

ciders created from ancient

became rector in 1633, until he

As producers of 200,000

whiskey in Scotland’s heath-

recipes steeped in legend. Inhale

bottles of fine-quality English

covered Highlands, Sussex’s

the deep and earthy aroma of a

wine each year (red, white and

organic sparkling wines, malt-

working brewery’s mash floor, or

sparkling), New Hall Vineyards

rich ales brewed in the pretty

honor the Celts for their discovery

process a staggering 25 tons

coastal villages of Suffolk or

of whisky, a grain-distilled tipple

of grapes per day through a

Herefordshire’s oh-so-crisp ciders.

that they named usigebaugh

modern, state-of-the-art plant.

Rows of vines and barley form a

(pronounced wis-ge-baugh) —

Guided tours offer wine novices

checkerboard terrain with fragrant

the “water of life.”

and aficionados alike the chance

orchards and hop yards.

Boasting around 61,000 pubs and a brewing tradition dating

to pick up secrets, tips and tricks VINEYARDS AND WINERIES The picturesque 165-acre New

from host Piers Greenwood — whose family has run the vineyard

to 53 A.D., the British Isles have

Hall Vineyards near Chelmsford

since 1969 — while taking a scenic

long been synonymous with a

in Essex is renowned as one of

stroll along leafy nearby trails.

wide variety of local ales, lagers,

England’s oldest wine producers.

stouts and bitters, as well as

New Hall’s vines are planted close

the same fertile, green-sand soil

umpteen different whiskies and

to All Saints Church in Purleigh,

as France’s Champagne region,

©Visit Britain/David Clapp

The Old Albion Inn, Cornwall

With a landscape composed of

© Danny Evans

Windstar13_032-38_Brit_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:43 AM Page 35

Cameron’s Strongarm

Above left: The Faîs’sie d’Cidre (Cider Festival) on Jersey; Above right: Camerons Strongarm; Below: La Robeline Cider.

England’s Sussex countryside lends itself perfectly to growing

CIDER AND PERRY MAKERS There is something undeniably

FAST FACTS

good grapes. More than 26 acres

British about Mr. Whitehead’s

of vines were planted at boutique

Cider Company, from the eccentric

the British Isles drinks beer.

winery Nutbourne Vineyards in

modes of experimentation

Draft beers (on tap) are sold in

1980, and today they span seven

employed to create its unique

a pint glass or a half-pint glass.

different grape varieties: Bacchus,

recipes to the reassuring traditions

Just ask for a “pint” or a “half.”

huxelrebe, Reichensteiner,

passed down through generations.

• Contrary to widespread belief,

schönburger and Müller-Thurgau

Amiable owner Angus Whitehead

the British do not serve their

(all riesling styles), plus pinot noir

has been making cider from the

beer warm. American-style

and chardonnay for a

fruits in his garden since he

beers, or lagers, are served

sparkling blend and rosé.

was just 15 years old (using the

cold, while bitters and stouts

Each one of the 50,000

family airing cupboard initially!).

will vary between room

bottles produced each

Today, his award-winning, potent

temperature and cool.

year carries the

ciders are still made from the

prestigious EEC standard

apples and pears grown on

in the United Kingdom are

of “Quality Wine PSR” —

the fertile southeast-facing

used in cider making. More

England’s highest

Hampshire Downs. He finally

grading for wine.

stopped tinkering with his

Visitors are offered a wonderful opportunity

forefathers’ when his cider became the best

• 51 percent of the population of

• 45 percent of all apples grown

than 130 U.K. gallons of cider are produced each year.

• While there are approximately 5,000 types of single malt

to browse the lovely

he’d ever tasted,

whisky around the world,

grounds of

and he knew he’d

around 90 percent of it

Nutbourne Manor

gotten it right.

comes from Scotland.

with its gardens, bird-

Cider has been

• Back in the day, cider was

scattered lakes,

made in Jersey

offered as part of a farm

and llama herds

since the 17th

worker’s wages in the British

. . . with a glass

century, and a rich

Isles, with four pints included

in hand,

heritage of apple

each week.

of course.

growing and cider W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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making continues to this day, with the island even playing host to a cider festival — the Faîs’sie d’Cidre. Although horses are no longer used to crush the apples, plenty of Jersey’s traditional cider makers proudly keep their old recipes a closely guarded secret.

A dozen local apple varieties provide a bumper crop from the island’s abundant orchards, with La Robeline Cider Company producing a very apple-rich, French-tasting cider in the English tradition. Owners Richard and Sarah Matlock are passionate bouché, which is made in an old pig sty in their 300-year-old farm tucked down one of Jersey’s prettiest winding lanes.

Steve Vidler/eStock Photo

about their homespun cidre

BREWERIES In 1752, an Irish man named Arthur Guinness was bequeathed £100 from his godfather’s will.

He invested the money to build a brewery just outside Dublin in 1755, and four years later he moved into the city to set up his own business and took a 9,000-year lease on a brewery brewery ranks among the most famous beer houses, producing 3 million pints of “the Black Stuff” each and every day.

Guinness Storehouse

at St James’s Gate. Today, the

As the biggest stout export brewery on the planet, St. James’s

Liffey) and serve as an appetizer

are encouraged to sip Ireland’s

Gate Brewery is highly technologically

to the tour itself.

black nectar while marveling at

advanced to keep pace with the

36

Bizarrely, the old fermentation

the city panorama.

10 million glasses of creamy stout

plant is shaped like a giant pint

it sells in 150 countries every 24

glass that, if full, would hold

family-owned beer-makers in

hours. Smells from the brewery

around 14 million pints. It offers

Britain’s working class northeast,

waft across the city of Dublin

spectacular 360-degree views

Camerons Brewery is located in

(and are best enjoyed from the

from the top — Guinness’ seventh-

Hartlepool’s historic Lion’s Yard,

bridges that straddle the River

floor Gravity Bar — where visitors

the home of brewing for more

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W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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Windstar13_032-38_Brit_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:43 AM Page 38

than 150 years. Producing cask,

Visitors are treated to a highly

FOR MORE INFORMATION

keg and bottled ales and lagers,

informative tour led by a whisky

• United Kingdom Vineyards

Camerons uses local well water

aficionado who pours generous

and the finest ingredients to fulfill

tasting measures at a homely bar.

Association (ukva.org.uk) • English Wine Producers (englishwineproducers.com) • Society of Independent Brewers (siba.co.uk) • Cask Marque quality ales (cask-marque.co.uk)

its 500,000-barrel capacity — with

different from their Scottish

each day. Be sure to try the

cousins — and not just in spelling.

brewery’s award-winning flagship

There are few more recognizable

beer, Camerons Strongarm, a ruby-

exponents of the Irish form than

hued pale ale with a hint of toffee.

Jameson Whiskey, a pioneering

• Scottish Brewing Association (scottishbrewing.com) • Association of Welsh

Ireland’s whiskeys are distinctly

more than 250,000 pints brewed

distiller with a colorful history WHISK(E)Y DISTILLERIES

dating to the 1700s. Of course, an

The self-proclaimed home of

important part of any tour is the

Independent Brewers

the Edinburgh Malt, Glenkinchie

tasting. At Jameson, you’ll get to

(awib.org.uk)

Distillery is set amongst rolling

try some of Ireland’s finest Irish

farmland close to the scenic rise

whiskey in the company of a

and fall of Lammermuir Hills.

guide who both informs and

As just one of three remaining

entertains. Serious tasters can

lowland distilleries, Glenkinchie is

book private sessions at the Old

justifiably proud of its single malt,

Jameson Distillery, where the

a floral dram with hints of spiced

finest premium reserve range is

fruit and a long, warm finish.

enjoyed over tasting sheets. n

• Scotch Malt Whisky Society (smws.com) • Scotch Whisky Association (scotch-whisky.org.uk) • National Association of Cider

WWW.SCOTTISHVIEWPOINT.COM

Makers (cideruk.com)

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Windstar13_039 Unity ad_Layout 1 3/20/13 1:07 PM Page 39

Š LOOK Die Bildagentur der Fotografen GmbH/Alamy

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plate to plate

By Cole Ruth

How to Eat Like a Stockholmer.

© Mikael Karlin/Alamy

Windstar13_040-48_Stockholm_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:45 AM Page 42

Do as the locals: buy some steamed crayfish and shrimp, some freshly baked bread and some beer. Then head for the water. covers all the bases and often

Even when I’m visiting and have

transported to a world where

When I think of Sweden, I am

includes Swedish cheeses like

no reason to go grocery shopping,

forests overflow with wild

Västerbotten and prästost.

I still make a stop at a saluhall

chanterelle mushrooms, and

(market). Stockholm has three

cloudberries ripen to sweet

a coffee break. At Sturekatten you

main market halls on different

perfection under the midnight sun,

can get a cup of thick, dark coffee

ends of the city: Hötorgshallen,

where reindeer graze on Arctic

and eat a sweet pastry nestled

Östermalmshallen and Söderhallen.

pastures and fishing towns pack

in a cozy chair in a building from

Whichever one you visit, go

and ship more pickled herring than

the 1700s. Look for the more

early. Do as the locals: buy

anywhere else in the world.

unusual bun with coarsely ground

some steamed crayfish and

None of this is hyperbole.

cardamom instead of cinnamon.

shrimp, freshly baked bread

Indeed, it is what makes the

The Sturekatten is also the best

and beer. Then head for the

capital city of Stockholm such

place to get semlor, cardamom-

water. There are numerous parks

an exciting place to eat.

flavored buns stuffed with

around Stockholm where you

For starters, a Swedish

42

At 10:30 a.m. it’s time for fika —

almond paste and topped with

can sit and eat and people-watch.

breakfast is rarely sweet or hot.

fresh whipped cream. Although

One often-overlooked spot is

Swedes like to start their days

usually reserved only for the

the large open terrace on the

with cold cuts and brown bread,

Lenten season, you can sometimes

tiny island of Riddarholmen,

or yogurt and fruit. Most hotels

stumble upon a cafe or bakery that

where you can sit with a

put out a spread at breakfast that

makes them year-round.

sprawling view of the city.

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W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

Windstar13_040-48_Stockholm_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:45 AM Page 43

Clockwise from top: Ostermalmshallen, Swedish breakfast, Strawberry cocktail

Jakob Fridholm/imagebank.sweden.se

Staffan Eliasson/Stockholm Visitors Board

Eriks Gondolen/www.erik.se

Staffan Eliasson/Stockholm Visitors Board

at Gondolen, Kvarnen.

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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After lunch, cross back over to the Old Town, find your way to Stortorget and stop at Chokladkoppen for white hot chocolate with an orange slice.

From the Old Town you can take a ferry to the island of Djurgården. Both Blå Porten, which is hidden inside the courtyard of the Liljevalchs Art Gallery, and Rosendals Trädgård, a greenhouse/cafe situated a good 20 minutes’ walking distance past Skansen, are popular for enjoying a late lunch or afternoon glass of wine.

If, after all this walking, you should find yourself tuckered out, rest your feet at Hotel Diplomat. Every day from 3 to 7 p.m., they serve a proper afternoon tea with freshly baked scones and homemade jams.

For a very Stockholm excursion, take the escalator down to the basement of the city’s glamorous NK department store. Inside Nicho Sodling/Stockholm Visitors Board

the Saluhall is a small but wellcurated cheese counter where you can jostle for one of the few seats and then engage in the civilized activity of sampling cheese with a glass of wine.

Before leaving the building, stop at NK Konfektyr, where Stop at Chokladkoppen (above) for hot chocolate.

they make dreamy cakes and an assortment of world-class truffles (try the one with Champagne!).

Reservations are essential for dinner in Stockholm, especially

Staffan Eliasson/Stockholm Visitors Board

at Michelin-star restaurants like

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Mathias Dahlgren. Dahlgren was a trailblazer when he opened his first restaurant in the ‘90s. Then he opened his self-titled venue with an upscale fine dining side and a casual bakficka

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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Courtesy Mathias Dalhgren/Grand Hotel

Courtesy Mathias Dalhgren/Grand Hotel

Windstar13_040-48_Stockholm_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:45 AM Page 46

Mathias Dahlgren (above left) has two restaurants at the Grand Hotel; Above right: Dahlgren’s toasted bread and fat.

(back-pocket) in 2007 and earned his second Michelin star.

Eating there for the first time, I raised an eyebrow when we were presented with the bread course. It was the size of a walnut.

“Mathias would like to share

“Mathias would like to share with you his first memory of freshly baked bread.”

In contrast to the Italian meatball, a Swedish meatball contains allspice. They are pan-seared then browned in the oven and served with a side of gravy, some lingonberry jam and thinly

with you his first memory of

sliced pickled cucumbers. While

freshly baked bread,” our server

most Swedes will tell you that

said as she placed them on our

the best meatballs are to be had

plates. Little did we know, the

at mom’s house, Restaurang

little buttons were stuffed with

Prinsen has been making them

butter halfway through the baking process so that they burst open when we bit into them.

for over a century and does a Fortunately, there are lessexpensive places to experience

pretty good approximation.

You can find classic Swedish

cutting-edge Swedish cuisine.

fare at restaurants like this

evening was a purée of oysters,

Tucked away on an unassuming

throughout the city. Tranan

grilled scallops, salt cod and

side street on Södermalm, the

in Vasastan has been frying

seaweed that looked and

chefs in this open kitchen at

herring and serving it with

tasted like it had washed up

Sjögräs put out plates of bone

mashed potatoes since they

from the ocean onto our plates.

marrow with shaved, roasted

opened in 1929. When food

The adventurous can opt to

fennel, or rillettes and sautéed

writer Anthony Bourdain traveled

have the entire meal be a surprise.

chanterelles, while the savvy

to Sweden, he paid a visit to

At the end of the evening they

bartenders serve cocktails from

Kvarnen to try their famed pork

print the menu for you on fine

their massive library of rum.

knuckle. And if none of these

The other highlight of the

stationery and slip it into an envelope for safekeeping.

46

why not eat some meatballs?

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W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

If you’re more in the mood for tradition than experimentation,

dishes sound appealing, beef Rydberg is a safe bet. It consists

Windstar13_047 Korite_W_Layout 1 3/20/13 1:40 PM Page 47

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Sturehof.com

Eriks Gondolen/www.erik.se

Windstar13_040-48_Stockholm_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:45 AM Page 48

Enjoy the views and the cocktails at Gondolen (above left). Sturehof is famous for its seafood.

of seared tenderloin and diced

sky high. Gondolen, perched on its

penny. Hötorgshallen has a honey

potatoes with a side of freshly

trolley car-shaped gondola in

and jam vendor that will help you

grated horseradish and an egg

the sky, is a great place to watch

with this. They also sell honey

yolk: pour the yolk over the hot

the sunset. On my first visit, the

harvested from bees that graze

beef and it starts to form a sauce.

bartender made me a martini with

on elderflowers.

Add the horseradish for kick.

elderflower cordial. I’ve asked for it

When it comes to seafood,

every time since. If you’re looking

concentrate at IKEA and recreate

there’s a local supply of oysters,

for an after-dinner cocktail, Och

the cocktail from Gondolen, but

mussels, crayfish, herring, pike-

Himlen Därtill, also on Södermalm,

so far I have not seen them carry

perch, arctic char salmon and

is on the 26th floor of the former

one made from black currants

more. One summer night, I

tax authority. Its romantic name

(svartvinbärssaft). If you are a

discovered the seafood platter at

roughly translates as: “And, in

licorice fan, try getting your hands

Sturehof. Loaded with lobster

addition, heaven.”

on some delicious all-natural

(albeit from Maine), crab, crayfish,

I believe travelers should not

licorice from Lakritsfabriken.

shrimp, and oysters, I sat for hours

return home without a taste of

And of course, buy some pickled

slowly eating my way through all

the lands they’ve traveled to in

herring. It’s sold refrigerated as

while I sipped Sancerre and

their suitcase. Cloudberry jam

well as shelf-stable so you take it

watched Stockholm’s elite come

(hjortronsylt) and, even better,

home with you and, while you’re

and go by my table on the patio.

wild raspberry jam (vildhallonsylt)

at it, will you ship some to me?

are worth seeking out. The latter

Then I, too, can close my eyes and

will be expensive but worth every

imagine I am back in Sweden. n

For cocktails, there are two places where you can literally get

48

I can now buy elderflower juice

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Windstar13_049_Effy_Layout 1 3/20/13 1:41 PM Page 49

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Windstar13_050-56_Spain_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:49 AM Page 50

Pouring sherry from a venencia, Jerez de la Frontera, Cadiz

S

Windstar13_050-56_Spain_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:49 AM Page 51

Salud!

By Ray Chatelin

Anyone who thinks himself a

romantic has no choice but to

travel to Spain. And no place in

that country stirs the heart and soul like Andalusia, the vast

southern region that stretches

Bordered by the Mediterranean, the wineries of southern Spain offer a sweet taste of tradition.

along the Mediterranean and Atlantic shorelines.

This is where everyone’s dreams

about Spain meet its equally splendid reality. Andalusia is a place of pleasures both audible

Carlos Cรกceras/Bodega Descalzos Viejos

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In Andalusia, taking time to sip one of the many regional wines along with tapas is the local prelude to late dinner.

Windstar13_050-56_Spain_Layout 1 3/21/13 11:49 AM Page 53

and visible — of gentle music and

from the growing regions of

Andalusia, activity in the southern

ancient architecture, the writings

northern Spain, such as Rioja and

vineyards is slowly changing

of Cervantes, the paintings of

Navarra. Vintages from the houses

thanks to temperature-controlled

Picasso and Goya and the music

of Artadi, Marqués de Murrieta,

fermentation methods. The region

and dance of flamenco. It’s also a

Marqués de Riscal, Muga, Marqués

harbors some of the nation’s most

place for the palate, especially the

de Cáceres, López de Heredia,

treasured historical sites and its

wine drinker’s.

Faustino and Montecillo, among

greatest cities — Seville, Ronda,

others, are celebrated throughout

Málaga, Cordoba, and Granada

the world.

— and it is also becoming

To visit this region’s provinces is to appreciate its wines. Walk into a major department store

The products of the hot

Spain’s most adventurous

like El Corte Inglés or a mainstay

Andalusia area, on the other hand,

supermarket such as Eroski and

have long been the poor cousin of

you’ll find yourself among what

Spanish wine — at least in the

now grow varieties such as

seems like an endless supply

minds of casual wine drinkers. At

cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz

of Spanish wines with prices

best, the region is known for

and even tempranillo; until

ranging from a couple of Euros

Jerez de la Frontera (south of

recently, these wines have been

to hundreds.

Seville) where several types of

exclusive to more northern

sherry are produced.

regions. Now, they are making

That’s because Spain leads the

wine-producing area.

A few estate wine makers

world in terms of vine-planted

Never quite celebrities, the

surface area with 1,032 million

fortified wines of the Málaga

wine market. Among them is

hectares (2,550 million acres) of

region have retained their local

Castillo de San Diego, a white

vineyards — more than France or

popularity since the time of the

wine known locally as Barbadillo

Italy. Spain grows some 600

Romans. Yet, most non-

and made from the same

different grape varieties, with the

Andalusian drinkers are hard

palomino grape that goes into

predominant red being the

pressed to name any particular

sherry. It’s the best-selling table

tempranillo, found mostly in the

wine from this region.

white in Andalusia, with a dry,

northern regions. This grape is often

Even though the sweeter

combined with smaller quantities of

wines are still the staple of

steady inroads into the Spanish

medium body perfect for accompanying everyday meals.

other varieties and is marketed by three categories — crianza, reserva and gran reserve, indicating the different degrees of aging.

GRAPES NORTH AND SOUTH When it comes to wine, what exactly is the difference between north and south? Travel to Spain and you quickly discover that many of the vineyards in the north grow on flat terrain, often around 3,000 feet above sea level. Thus, grapes in the north can ripen slowly and are sheltered from the kind of fierce heat found in the south.

Most casual wine drinkers are familiar with the wines that come

Ionis Kaltenbach/Getty Images

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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Tapas Bar El Pimpi on

©SIME/eStock Photo

Granada Street, Málaga

SOUTHERN SPAIN

of the many regional wines while

Spain’s Mediterranean coast is

16th-century Málaga Cathedral

nibbling savory treats during the

Hollywood and Las Vegas mixed

lies in the heart of the city, and

latter part of the day is the local

in with a touch of the French

nearby, Alcazaba of Málaga, built

prelude to dinner.

Riviera. Towns and cities along

in the 11th century by Moors,

the Costa del Sol have become

boasts one of the best-preserved

Málaga and Sierras de Málaga

the retreat of jet-setters and the

fortresses in Spain and overlooks

consists of 30 vineyards (bodegas)

rich and famous, encompassing a

the city’s harbor. Málaga is also

that produce 1.9 million liters of

wonderful combination of historical

Picasso’s birthplace. His old home,

wine annually. Bucking a trend

sight-seeing, cafes, fishing, sun

located in a 15th-century building

towards drier wines, a handful of

bathing, sundry golf courses and

on the Plaza de la Merced, is now

wineries keep the sweet wine

crowded hillside villages perched

devoted to his works and those

tradition alive while still producing

above the beaches.

of modern artists.

wines more sophisticated than a

Málaga (which shares its name

54

bars and fashion boutiques. The

Sitting at one of the many

The wine region encompassing

few decades ago. Jorge Ordóñez

with the surrounding province)

tapas bars that dot Málaga’s

& Co, Telmo Rodríguez Molino

is the largest city along the coast

downtown streets (or in any

Real Mountain Wine and Bodegas

and the most sophisticated,

Spanish town for that matter)

Málaga Virgen Pedro Ximénez

with high-end shops and wide

is a cultural pastime. Throughout

Reserva de Familia are three

boulevards lined with cozy tapas

Andalusia, taking time to sip one

popular labels from the region.

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·

(ROATÁN)

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ARUBA

·

·

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now producing young red-wine

wineries. But sherry is truly

from the exceptionally sweet

varieties of cabernet sauvignon,

identifiable as Spanish.

Pedro Ximénez and moscatel

merlot, syrah, petit verdot and

grape varieties. Named after a

tempranillo. Their white-wine

where sherry is produced, fronts

17th-century Spanish soldier

varieties also include chardonnay,

the Atlantic, with long beaches

thought to have introduced it

macabeo, colombard and

dotted with tiny fishing villages.

from Germany, Pedro Ximénez

sauvignon blanc. Some of today’s

Jerez, a few kilometers north of

grapes have an unusually high

premium labels include Bodega

Cadiz (from where Columbus

sugar content, which is enhanced

Los Bujeos, which produces a

sailed to the New World), is a

by letting them roast in the sun

series of reds; Descalzos Viejos

place of vineyards and horses.

before pressing. This reduces

for a rich chardonnay; and Cortijo

Sherry is, in fact, an Anglicized

their moisture and concentrates

Los Aguilares, which bottles a

version of its name, and its

the sugar, which gives the wine

prize-winning pinot noir.

principal product, a dry sherry,

Many of Málaga’s wines come

a dark color, even though the

Nearby, the Montilla-Moriles area

is popular in Andalusia, indeed

moscatel and Pedro Ximénez

produces dessert wines many

throughout Spain. Expect this

are both white grapes.

think are well-suited for a wide

sherry to be dry. Heavily sweet,

range of foods — tapas, cured

dark sherry, such as Bristol

meats or fish and shellfish dishes.

Cream, is produced almost

About an hour west of Málaga lies Ronda, a city that holds a special place in Spanish history.

It is where modern bullfighting had its start in the late 19th

exclusively for the export market.

SHERRY This traditional wine deserves

Whether sipping sherry as an aperitif from a tulip-shaped

century, and its small bullring is

special mention because it

glass or enjoying a dessert

one of Spain’s most treasured.

originated in Spain. Many Spanish

wine accompanied by a creamy

wines are, after all, similar in

custard flan, the wines of

since the Phoenicians sailed its

style with others from European,

southern Spain are certain to

southern shores in 1100 BC.

South and North American,

delight both the casual dabbler

Bodegas in the city of Ronda are

New Zealand and Australian

and aficionado alike. n

Wine has been made in Ronda

©moodboard/Alamy

The Costa del Luz, the province

Enjoy a glass in Granada

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Izzet Keribar/Getty Images

Windstar13_058-62_Turkey_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:17 PM Page 58

Windstar13_058-62_Turkey_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:18 PM Page 59

At Your Feet You can walk all over this souvenir, fit for a sultan.

By Kevin Revolinski

Windstar13_058-62_Turkey_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:32 PM Page 60

A

Turkish carpet is the most

Even today, an expert can tell you

beautiful thing you will

the origins of a particular piece

ever walk on. Much more

by closely examining the details

meaningful than a trinket

of the craftwork.

or a tea towel, this memento

Turkish rugs are not simply

becomes a part of your home. If

quaint leftovers from olden days

you’re looking for a souvenir of

that are sold to tourists as

your trip to Turkey, a carpet should

souvenirs. Many modern Turkish

certainly be high on your list.

families maintain a carpet in their home. Some will tell you it was

A TRADITION IS BORN Before moving into Anatolia —

their grandparents’ or greatgrandparents’, yet the brilliance of

what is now modern Turkey — the

the colors and the condition of

Turks were a nomadic people who

the fabric might make that seem

lived in Central Asia . . . cousins,

impossible. But the truth is that a

you might say, to Genghis Khan.

well-made Turkish carpet — even

Because it could be rolled up and

one subjected to moderate foot

taken on the next journey, the

traffic in a living or dining room —

carpet was perfectly suited to the

should last several generations.

nomadic life. Evidence of carpetmaking dates as far back as the 4th century B.C. Durability and beauty were important as the rug was the literal foundation of the home, and each tribe developed

© Images & Stories/Alamy

its own patterns and methods.

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Colors should be as radiant as a Turkish spice market.

Windstar13_063_Seasong_Layout 1 3/20/13 2:43 PM Page 63

Windstar13_064-70_Italy_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:34 PM Page 64

MORE THAN

Marinara

By Sarah Greaves-Gabbadon

Say “Buon Giorno” to the regional cuisines of Italy.

SIME/eStock Photo

Italy, Sicily, Lipari, fishing village.

Windstar13_064-70_Italy_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:34 PM Page 65

SIME/eStock Photo

Windstar13_064-70_Italy_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:34 PM Page 66

Fresh fish and pasta are staples in many regions.

the town of Norcia, sausages are a

salt) appears on every table,

that comes to mind when you

Quick — what’s the first dish

specialty, including mazzafegati,

along with olive oil or sauces in

think of Italian food? Spaghetti?

made of pork liver and flavored

which to dip it. You’ll even find

Pizza? Think again — there are

with orange peel, pine nuts, sugar

bread added to soups and salads.

as many as 20 styles of cuisine

and raisins. Umbrian dishes are

Bread may be toasted, basted

developed in various regions

also enhanced by the fruit and oil

with olive oil and topped with

of Italy. Simple yet flavorful

of olive trees, which abound here.

olive pastes, eggplant or tomato

meals made from the freshest

Dishes often include cheeses,

to make the appetizers crostini

of ingredients characterize all

such as cacciotta and pecorino,

and bruschetta. A well-loved,

Italian cooking, but each cuisine

and cured meats. Black truffles

traditional bread is schiacciata

offers its own unique style.

from Spoleto and Norcia enliven

con l’uva, a sweet pastry made

Let’s take a culinary tour.

spaghetti alla nursina and trota al

from wine grapes.

tartufo, a trout-with-truffles dish UMBRIA

to die for.

Baked or grilled meats are a staple of this hilly, central region, and a big part of celebratory meals

66

Tuscan food is often grilled or baked in a wood-burning oven.

Don’t miss an opportunity to

TUSCANY Bread is almost a religion in the

sample bistecca Fiorentina, a Florentine steak, or fegatelli di

such as agnello arosto (roast

central Italian region of Tuscany,

maiale, pig’s liver grilled with bay

lamb), traditional during Easter,

which embraces the towns of

leaves. Whatever the dish, simplicity

and porchetta, roast suckling pig

Pisa, Siena and Florence. The

and balanced flavors are the

stuffed with an herb seasoning. In

staple (usually baked without

hallmarks of the region’s cuisine.

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Windstar13_064-70_Italy_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:35 PM Page 67

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE The culinary traditions of neighboring Austria, Germany

turkey, beef, pork, goose and

it is delicious served plain with a

chicken), seven vegetables

fresh tomato and basil sauce but

and seven condiments.

may be adorned with the topping

and Hungary are very much alive in the cuisine from this northern

of your choice.

CAMPANIA

region, known for its hearty food

A hundred years ago, Campania,

Food from this region is influenced by its cosmopolitan

and multiple varieties of bread.

in the kingdom of Naples, was the

history of settlement by the

Cooks in “Trento” are known for

birthplace of pizza. Thin-crusted,

Greeks, Normans, Romans and

combining spices and condiments in unique ways, so don’t be surprised to find that sugar is an ingredient in many meat and vegetable dishes or that your soup is made from a recipe combining wine, broth, eggs, cream and cinnamon. Smoked meats are common on the menu, particularly speck, a popular cured ham that is often featured in the antipasto (cold appetizer) course.

Trento breads are a carbohydratelover’s dream and include black rye loaves, crisp wafers, flatbreads, and bread figurines called seelenstucke.

Rice, eaten in other regions as a main course, is usually served here as an accompaniment to meat or fish.

PIEDMONT Truffles are the signature ingredient in cuisine from this northwest region, where the subtly flavored white truffle is highly prized — and expensive.

Its pungent aroma scents salads and risottos, the fontina cheese and white truffle fonduta and the local braised veal specialty, rostòn. Piedmont produces more than half of Italy’s rice supply, so don’t miss one of the area’s paniscia, a salami risotto. Bollito misto is a hearty and filling stew, traditionally made from seven kinds of meat (veal, tongue,

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most delicious rice dishes,

Traditional breads, speck and alpine cheeses of Trentino-Alto Adige.

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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Black, hot and sweet peppers are used liberally, lending Calabrian food its spicy reputation.

Spanish. Mozzarella cheese,

calamari and octopus and

flavors — sweet and sour, spicy

made from buffalo milk, is a

are integral in the traditional

and salty — and relies heavily on

local specialty. Campania also

peperonata rustica, stewed

an abundance of seafood and

prides itself on being the

peppers that are eaten hot as

locally grown ingredients.

birthplace of spaghetti.

a side dish or spread cold on toasted bread as a snack.

CALABRIA Food from the southern

Other local specialties include

Pasta con le sarde, pasta with anchovies, is a simple yet flavorful traditional dish, as is spaghetti alla

bottarga, preserved tuna roe,

siracusana, a pasta with anchovies

Calabrian region is simple: fresh

caciocavallo cheese and

or salted tuna roe. Seafood also

pastas, imaginatively prepared

soppressata, spicy sausages.

turns up in pescepada alla ghiotta,

vegetables and grilled meats, particularly pork. Polenta is a

a well-loved swordfish dish.

SICILY

Sicilians also have a sweet

popular replacement for pasta

Sicily’s history spans a

and tomatoes, and eggplant is

succession of invasions and

irresistible to those who share

featured in many vegetable dishes.

occupations, and its cuisine is

it. The region that gave the world

Black, hot, and sweet peppers

just as colorful. Influenced by

cannoli is also famous for its

are used liberally, lending Calabrian

the Normans, Greeks, Romans

cassata, a decadent sponge

food its spicy reputation. The

and Arabs who once staked

and ricotta cheesecake.

peppers awaken the delicate

their claims to this island off

flavors of dishes made with

the southern Italian coast, the

offers tastes to please every

sardines, swordfish, mackerel,

native cuisine is a mélange of

palate. Buon appetito! n

tooth, and their desserts are

Italian cuisine, in other words,

Portofino

68

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— Diego Galante

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(FREEPORT

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·

·

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BARBUDA

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AN EXPERT’S GUIDE TO OLIVE OIL Olive oil is the lifeblood of Italian cuisine. It should be a staple of your pantry as well. Here are a few helpful things to know before you buy your next bottle.

• Unlike wine, olive oil deteriorates with age and is best consumed within a year of bottling. Be sure to check the label for the date of manufacture.

• The flavor of the oil will depend on when in the season the olives were harvested. Olives harvested early produce oil with a fruity flavor; those picked at the middle or end of the season have a milder, more subtle taste.

• Store olive oil in a sealed container, away from light and extreme temperatures, and it should retain its quality for 12 to 18 months.

Refrigeration is unnecessary and not recommended.

• Confused about the terms virgin and extra-virgin? Virgin olive oil is extracted using machines, but no heat or chemicals that might affect its integrity. It has an acidity of one to three percent.

Extra-virgin oil, acknowledged as the highest quality olive oil and the most expensive, has a very low level of acidity, usually one percent or less. Fino olive oil is a blend of virgin and extra-virgin oils.

—S.G.G.

Tuscan bruschetta

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Windstar13_072-78_Riviera_Layout 1 3/22/13 1:38 PM Page 72

BEAUTY BEACH

AND THE

The French Riviera’s scenic coastlines and world-renowned glamour are open to all who wish to sample them.

By Richard Varr Waning sunlight illuminates the

South of France, enjoying the

soft yellows and ochres of the

Riviera’s opulent lifestyle of luxury

waterfront houses in Saint-Tropez.

resorts, glamorous casinos and

It’s a timeless scene captured

expensive yachts. I’m not rich or

again and again on canvas,

famous, but you don’t have to be to

depicting old fishing boats

sample the way of life that has

bobbing gently on tranquil seas

captured the imagination of artists

that meet a cloudless blue sky. As

and writers for more than a century.

the late afternoon progresses, my

Renowned festivals, including

anticipation begins to intensify as

the Monaco Grand Prix and

this humble harbor scene yields

Cannes International Film Festival,

to the commanding presence of

have made the Riviera a world-

sleek and powerful yachts slowly

class destination. Needless to

motoring toward the dock.

say, there’s no shortage of fine

I stand with a crowd of anxious onlookers hoping to catch a

restaurants, vibrant nightlife and excellent shopping to be enjoyed.

glimpse of a movie star or a as yet another yacht backs in. And then the ogling begins in earnest.

Captains stand guard while, on

THE SIGHTS How did Cannes become such a glamorous place? It all started in 1834 when an English lord

deck, elegantly dressed passengers

chancellor, Lord Brougham, was

sip champagne in grand style.

making his way to Italy. Authorities

Nearby, buzzing motor scooters

in Nice prevented him from

and several Mercedes zip along as

traveling any further because of a

crowds cram shops and cafés.

cholera epidemic. So he stayed in

Another group stops and gawks —

the small fishing village of Cannes.

this time over a Ferrari.

“Lord Brougham liked it so much,”

I am relishing the sunshine, warm weather and scenic coastline of the

says my tour guide, “that he built a house and a lot of aristocrats

© SIME/eStock Photo

billionaire. A horn suddenly wails

Windstar13_072-78_Riviera_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:37 PM Page 73

Nice, Hotel Negresco

Windstar13_072-78_Riviera_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:37 PM Page 74

came. And so the French Riviera

replies with no hesitation. I fully

the perfume capital of the world. I

was born.”

appreciate what she means as I

arrive and stroll medieval streets;

In more recent years, the Cannes’

stroll down the Boulevard de La

sweet scents waft my way. There

International Film Festival has also

Croisette. Along with world-class

are three working perfumeries

attracted Hollywood movie stars.

landmarks such as the Art Deco

here: Fragonard, Galimard and

On the walkways outside the

Hotel Martinez and the legendary

Molinard. My olfactory senses now

Festival and Convention Hall,

Carlton Hotel, I pass by boutiques

tickled, I tour the International

I see the cement handprints of

sporting the famously fashionable

Perfume Museum and the

celebrities such as Sharon Stone,

names of Cartier, Chanel, Dior,

Fragonard Perfume Factory. I finish

Michael Douglas, Julie Andrews

Rolex and Vuitton, to name a few.

in Fragonard’s heavily scented

and Isabella Rossellini.

“So what do the stars and other visitors do in Cannes?”

I ask my tour guide. “Shop,” she

showroom, which swarms with THE SMELLS Speaking of Chanel, just a 30minute drive north to Grasse is

women shopping for fragrances that promise to turn heads and spark romance.

When I finally make my way

Nicole Kidman arrives for a screening of “The Paperboy” during the 65th Cannes film festival.

74

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morning sun is illuminating the hilltop Notre Dame de la Garde.

I witness a stunning view of Marseille’s Old Port, where two

VALERY HACHE/AFP/GettyImages

I’M NOT RICH OR FAMOUS, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE TO SAMPLE THE WAY OF LIFE THAT HAS CAPTURED THE IMAGINATION OF ARTISTS AND WRITERS FOR MORE THAN A CENTURY.

from Grasse to Marseille, the

Windstar13_072-78_Riviera_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:37 PM Page 75

fishing boats are racing, it seems,

fish from the Mediterranean Sea

to bring their fresh catch to port.

cooked in it,” says my guide.

filmmaker’s words: “When I look at

They join other fishermen at the

“You first eat the soup alone

Villefranche I recall my youth,

port’s daily fish market, where fish

with bread and garlic with a

please never change it. Please

are still squirming in trays flooded

special mayonnaise, and then

keep Villefranche the way it was.”

with seawater.

you eat the fish.”

The fishing tradition is alive and

There are also many fishermen in

Inscribed on the church are the

THE TASTES

well in the South of France, evident

the medieval town of Villefranche,

in the region’s many savory

where the sturdy walls of the

sand along the Riviera’s scenic

seafood dishes. In Cannes, for

16th-century Citadel tower over a

coastline, but I find the most

example, the outdoor cafés along

scenic, boat-filled cove. “It’s a

unusual beaches in Nice. Though it

Rue Felix Faure serve steaming

small fishermen’s village that has

borders a bustling city (the fifth-

bouillabaisse and fish platters.

kept its tradition,” my guide

largest in France), the water along

Tables literally overflow with trays

explains. Such a strong tradition, in

the four-and-a-half miles of

of fruits de mer — shrimp, crab,

fact, that the 14th-century St. Pierre

beaches on the Promenade des

lobster, oysters and mussels.

chapel — painted in soft pink and

Anglais is colored a peaceful

There is no shortage of sun and

Caribbean blue. The beaches are

film director Jean Cocteau and

made of small, round pebbles (no

Marseille. “It’s a soup with small fish

located directly on the quay — is

sand) that make a peculiar lapping

and crab, as well as six different

dedicated to them.

sound as crashing waves recede.

However, locals will tell you that

Chapelle Cocteau, Villefranche

Monaco Press Centre Photos

CRT Riviera Côte d'Azur - Photographe: Pierre BEHAR

Parfumerie Fragonard, Grasse

CRT Riviera Côte d'Azur - Photographe: Georges VERAN

ochre tones by French artist and

the best bouillabaisse is found in

Monaco Grandprix

W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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Windstar13_072-78_Riviera_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:37 PM Page 76

It’s here where I first appreciate attracted some of France’s most

concoction and quite good! For

continues, and royalty is on my

famous artists. One of them is

dinner, I sit down at L’Escalinada, a

mind during my visit to Monaco,

Henri Matisse. Considered one of

restaurant specializing in Nicoise

the world’s smallest sovereign

Nice’s favorite sons, he is quoted

cooking. “Nicoise foods are basic

state. First, I visit what many call

as saying, “When I understood that

and simple,” my Nice tour guide

the world’s most famous casino,

every morning I would again see

tells me.

found in Monte Carlo. Chandeliers

My tour of the French Riviera

hang inside lavish rooms

that ‘light,’ I could not believe my

And delicious, I might add. I

good fortune.” Matisse lived in the

have an appetizer of deep-fried,

decorated in Belle Époque style.

heart of the old town, where in

breaded sardines, eggplant and

Flanking the casino are the

1926, with broad strokes on canvas,

succulent zucchini, followed by

extravagant Hotel de Paris and

he captured the incomparable light

fresh pasta with chicken and basil.

Café de Paris. Nearby are shops

At night, I walk along the

with high-end names such as

promenade — a painting now on

Promenade des Anglais to enjoy

Chanel and Cartier. “People like to

display in Nice’s Matisse Museum.

the cool breezes and city lights.

go shopping — or just window

The illuminated Belle Époque Hotel

shopping,” my guide says.

My next stop is Old Town’s

I don’t have much luck in

Rossetti Square, with its Baroque-

Negresco, also a museum, stands

era Ste.-Réparate Cathedral and

out. Inside, I am quickly enamored

casinos, so I spend my afternoon

surrounding outdoor cafés. At the

by its painted glass dome and

at the Royal Palace of Prince

popular Fenocchio Glacier ice-

Salon Louis XIV gallery, which

Rainier III and Prince Albert,

cream stand, I balk as I try an

contains an original portrait of the

descendants of the ruling Grimaldi

unusual flavor — tomato and basil

Sun King by Hyacinthe Rigaud.

family, which dates back to the 12th

Marseille

Nice

Matisse Museum, Nice

© SIME/eStock Photo

CRT Côte d'Azur - Photographe : Robert PALOMBA

THE FEEL

Riviera. To my surprise, it’s a sweet

to paint a beach scene along the

CRT Riviera Côte d'AzurPhotographe: Anaîs BROCHIERO

— perhaps found only on the

the brilliance of the light that has

Windstar13_077_Cariloha_Layout 1 3/20/13 2:52 PM Page 77

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Windstar13_072-78_Riviera_Layout 1 3/21/13 12:38 PM Page 78

century. Noon sunlight enlivens Cannes, Carlton Hotel

the muted pink and yellow façades surrounding Palace Square as I stand in a crowd awaiting the daily changing of the armed guards, dressed in crisp white uniforms and adding to the pomp and pageantry.

Inside the Italian Renaissance palace there are carved wooden figures, weapons displays, centuries-old furniture, marble statues and portraits of the Royal Family. But what catches my eye most is in the Throne Room, where Prince Rainier and the late Princess Grace were married. A family portrait featuring the deceased princess has stark white tones, suggesting an angelic theme. I am at once reminded of the great loss and sadness over her death in a car accident nearly 30 years ago.

She is buried in the nearby neo-Romanesque cathedral.

© SIME/eStock Photo

I’m off to a quiet spot in the palace gardens, which offer breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. Birds are chirping in this lush green oasis painted with yellow and Monaco, Throne room

red blooms, bringing to mind the words of my tour guide the day before.

“Imagine the feeling between the painter and ‘the light.’ It’s a good feeling,” she had said.

“The buildings and the colors.

The gardens, the blue water and the sky. The light brings out the color, making the Côte d’Azur

Monaco Press Centre Photos

very special.”

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After all, it is the sights, the smells, the tastes and the feel of the French Riviera that make it such a world-class destination. n W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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Huahine

Bora Bora Tahaa Raiatea

Moorea

Papeete TAHITI

South Pacific

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Camera Ready Sprays of oleander sway over the Church of Agios Georgios of the Rock, which has stood on the north slope of the Acropolis since the 1600s.

From the grounds of this traditional, barrel-vaulted church, one can look out, as visitors have for centuries, across the rooftops of Athens spreading beneath the Mediterranean sky.

SIME/eStock Photo

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W I N D S TA R C R U I S E S . C O M

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