Tempranillo Bold and Full Bodied!

Tempranillo Bold and Full Bodied!

By Elizabeth Woessner, Grape Expectations Columnist

Tempranillo has more aliases than any criminal in history, being known by a long, varied list of monikers around the world. (I stopped counting at 62 total aliases, but I am sure there are more.) Spain boasts the highest number of Tempranillo aliases anywhere, with Portugal coming in second. Tempranillo is inextricably associated with Spain, where it accounts for 88% of all red grape varieties grown and is the fourth most planted red variety in the world. Integral to the great wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo has grown in popularity worldwide, adapting nicely to local terroir and creating wines that are true to the region in which they grow. Unfortunately, confusion caused by the grape’s many names may have prevented it from receiving its due recognition. Furthermore, Tempranillo being used primarily in blends, with its name rarely on the label, has likely also contributed to its limited recognition.

Although Tempranillo is rarely used to create a single varietal wine, it is usually the primary player in a blend, contributing flavors of red fruit, spice, and leather. The name Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word “temprano,” meaning “little early one,” probably referring to the early ripening of this grape. Because it ripens early and has a short growing season, it can thrive in a variety of climates. In cooler areas, it can succeed if there is enough sun to ripen the fruit entirely, producing a bright, easy-drinking wine with more red fruit characteristics. The Tempranillo grape thrives

in areas with large diurnal temperature swings, where warm, sunny days ripen the fruit, and cool nights help maintain its acidity. The wines produced in these climates take on darker fruit aromas, such as those of blackberry and plum, and have very muscular tannins.

The Tempranillo grape is black, with dark-colored skins, medium acidity, and moderate to high tannins. When young, Tempranillo produces fresh juicy wines with flavors of strawberry and cherry. As the wine ages, it creates wines with aromas and flavors of dark fruits, such as blackberry and fig, and develops interesting flavors of tobacco, leather, cedar, and vanilla flavors from its time aging in oak barrels. It is certainly worth exploring the many areas where this delightful grape is grown to discover how climate, soil, blending, and wine-making techniques can transform this grape into a myriad of captivating aromas and flavors. Tempranillo is King in Spain and is grown in almost every wine region in northern and western Spain. The most famous wine region for Tempranillo is Rioja, where it is blended with Garnacha, Mazuela, Graciano, and sometimes Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wines exhibit smokey, savory characteristics. Within Spain’s Castilla y Leon wine region, both Ribera del Duero and Toro produce exciting Tempranillos. Though still often blends, both areas now produce world-class single-varietal Tempranillo wines. The frigid winters and short hot summers in Ribera del Duero produce elegant wines

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

A Wine by any other name...

A few Tempranillo Aliases

Abillo Negro

Aldepenas

Aragon

Aragonez

Arinto Tinto

Cencibel

Chinchillana

Cupani

De Por Aca

Escobera

Garnacho Fono

Grenache de Logrono

Jacibiera, Juan Garcia

Negra de Mesa

Ojo de Liebre

Pinuela, Sensibel

Tinta Aragones

Tinta Corrient

Tinta de Madrid

Tinta de Santiago

Tinta de Toro

Tinta do Inacio

Tinta do Pais

Tinta Fina

Tinta Roriz

Tinto Aragon

Tinto Fino

Ull de Llebre

Valdepenas

Verdiell

Vid de Aranda

with a deep dark hue and robust but integrated tannins. In Toro, along the Duero River, to the west of Ribera del Duero, Tempranillo is planted at high altitude to combat the region’s harsh heat and results in a rustic, intense, and concentrated wine. Down south in the region’s of La Mancha and Valdepenes, where the grape is known as Cencibel, it produces both single varietal and blends with Spanish and international grape varieties.

Like all red wines in Spain, those made from Tempranillo must meet the minimum aging requirements defined by Spanish law. While these laws should help you choose which wines to buy, please note that many producers exceed these requirements. Also noteworthy is that Gran Riserva wines are only produced in exceptional years.

AGING REQUIREMENTS FOR SPANISH REDS

Joven - Young, fresh wines, with no aging requirement

Crianza - 24 months total aging, with 6 months in barrel

Riserva - 36 months total aging, with 12 months in barrel

Gran Riserva - 60 months total aging, with 18 months in barrel

In Portugal, just west of Spain, Tempranillo is known by two different names, depending on the part of the country in which it’s produced. Tempranillo is called Tinto Roriz in the Douro and Dao regions, and is called Aragonez in Alentejo, in the south. In the Douro region, Tempranillo, under the alias of Tinto Roriz, is one of the five primary grapes used in the blend for most Port production. However, it is now also used to produce many delightful red still wines. The grapes are planted at altitude along the Douro River, protecting the wine’s vital acidity, and the hot temperature of the region helps create the fruit’s structure. By contrast, the cold, wet winters of the Dao region, combined with significant diurnal temperature swings, produce Tinto Roriz wines that display delicate red fruit aromas, soft tannins, and high acidity.

Tempranillo came to the United States in the late 19th Century and was called Valdepenas. It was first planted in California’s Central Coast region, but in the early 1990s, interest in the variety grew in areas better suited to Tempranillo’s ripening needs such as California, Oregon, and Washington State. By 1998, southern Oregon’s Abecela Winery won first place in the San Francisco International Wine Competition, with a single varietal Tempranillo. From that point on, the popularity of domestic Tempranillo has continued to grow amongst winemakers and consumers alike.

Similarly, in Australia, Tempranillo is enjoying an ever-increasing popularity, where the grape is almost always aged in American Oak. Some of the best examples are found in Barossa Valley, King Valley, McLaren Vale, and Margaret River. Elsewhere in the world, the appreciation of Tempranillo is expanding, and its planting has begun in Argentina, Chile, and Mexico.

Tempranillo is a delightful wine for pairing with a multitude of dishes. Its savory characteristics, moderate acidity, and softer tannins make it a great pairing with mushroom or tomato-based dishes. Of course, it also pairs well with many classic Spanish foods, such as paella and Jamon de Iberico. Bolder, more developed Tempranillo can handle stronger, meatier dishes, such as rack of lamb, porterhouse steak, and other grilled meats. James Beard Award-Winning Chef/ Owner of Denver’s Rioja restaurant, Jennifer Jasinski, certainly knows her way around Rioja’s famed red grape. She likes pairing Tempranillo with the restaurant’s Potato and Cheese Pansoti, Roasted Acorn Squash, and Pancetta vinaigrette. Jen says, “The earthiness of the squash works great with medium-bodied reds. Pancetta vinaigrette and red wine gastrique both play well with the wonderful Spanish Tempranillos.” [Recipe and photo attached]

You may have enjoyed a glass of Tempranillo without even knowing you are drinking it. But if you have ever had a Spanish or Portuguese red wine, the odds are good that it contained Tempranillo. With its robust and complex savory flavors, versatility, and age-ability, it is no wonder this grape continues to grow in popularity worldwide. Buy some for your collection or bring it to your next dinner party. Tempranillo is sure to capture attention and make any occasion better, no matter its moniker or alias.

POTATO AND CHEESE PANSOTI, ROASTED ACORN SQUASH,

PANCETTA VINAIGRETTE serves 4

By Chef Jennifer Jasinski

Pansoti is Italian for “pot bellied” and refers to the shape of the pasta. It is also a classic stuffed pasta and usually contains potato and cheese. This recipe is perfect for autumn. When the weather is starting to get a bit cold and the acorn squash are in season, this dish comforts you while satisfying your appetite. The pansoti was an original menu item at Rioja, and each fall I still crave them! “Pansoti” was actually in the running to be the name of our restaurant before we decided on “Rioja.”

POTATO AND CHEESE FILLING

1 Idaho potato

4 ounces ricotta

2 ounces grated Parmesan cheese

2 1/2 ounces fresh mozzarella, diced

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 egg yolk

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

POTATO AND CHEESE PANSOTI

Semolina pasta dough either purchased or made fresh Egg yolk wash (1 part water to 1 part egg yolk)

Semolina flour, to dust tray

ROASTED ACORN SQUASH

2 acorn squash

1/4-pound butter, melted

1/2 cup brown sugar

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

FIG PORT REDUCTION

2 cups port wine

1/2 cup chopped dried black mission figs

Photo Credit Rioja Restaurant

PANCETTA VINAIGRETTE

1/2 cup pure olive oil

1 cup ground pancetta (cut into 1/4-inch dice)

1/4 cup diced shallots

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1/2 tablespoon chopped thyme

3 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste

ASSEMBLY AND PLATING

3 chives, cut into 1-inch lengths, to garnish (store in ice water to preserve freshness)

POTATO AND CHEESE FILLING: (Preheat oven to 375 degrees.)

Wash the potato and bake in the 375-degree oven until fully cooked (about 1 hour).

When it is cool enough to handle but still hot, peel the skin. In a mixing bowl, mash the potato with a hand masher or ricer.

Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix well while the potato is still warm. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve in the refrigerator until ready to use.

POTATO AND CHEESE PANSOTI:

When you are ready to prepare the pasta, unwrap your dough and slice off a piece of the dough ball, rewrapping the unused dough until you are ready to sheet it. Feed the dough through your pasta machine, starting at the widest setting. (A pasta-rolling device such as the tabletop Gemini or the roller attachment for a stand mixer is ideal for sheeting the pasta.) Continue to feed it through the machine, gradually reducing the thickness setting until the dough is 1/16 inch thick. Your sheet should be approximately 5 inches wide and 12 inches long. This is a standard size that works well for all the recipes. Lay the sheeted dough onto a lightly semolina-floured work surface. Continue sheeting the dough. You will need 6 sheets for 4 servings finished pasta. As you work, keep each sheet covered with a dry towel to prevent the dough from drying.

Have a 2 1/2- to 3-inch ring cutter handy. On a lightly semolina-floured work surface, place a sheet of fresh pasta. Starting 1 inch in from one end of the pasta, place 2 tablespoons of the potato and cheese filling onto the center of the sheet; repeat, leaving at least 1 1/2 inches of space between each mound of filling for a total of 3 dollops. Brush egg wash around the filling and fold from the bottom half of the pasta over the mounds (allowing the fold to butt up against the filling); as you fold, be sure to push out the air and tighten the dough down around the filling. Place the ring cutter over each dough-covered mound so that it resembles a mezzaluna (half-moon) and press out the pansoti. (To make the right shape, the cutter is only hitting half the dough.)

Pinch the edges of the pansoti to be sure they are sealed well.

Stand each pansoti on its filling side and flatten it slightly to resemble a pot sticker. Repeat until all pansoti are shaped. (You will need 16 pansoti for 4 servings.)

Reserve the finished pansoti on a sheet tray lightly dusted with semolina flour (to prevent sticking). Cover and refrigerate the pansoti until you are ready to cook them.

ROASTED ACORN SQUASH:

(Preheat oven to 350 degrees.)

Peel the squash along their ridges. (You will not be able to peel the whole

squash, but that is OK. It will look like you have peeled stripes into the squash.) Cut each squash across its equator with a serrated knife and remove the seeds. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices to make large rings. Place them in a large mixing bowl.

Drizzle the melted butter over the squash rings. Add the brown sugar, salt and pepper to the bowl and toss until the squash rings are well coated.

Lay the squash directly onto parchment-lined sheet trays and roast in the 350-degree oven until they are tender but not mushy (12-14 minutes, depending on size). (The squash should still have some firmness because they will rest at room temperature and be warmed again later. Look for the slices to change from being opaque to a little more translucent as they cook.)

FIG PORT REDUCTION:

In a small saucepan, bring the wine and figs to a boil over high heat and begin reducing the liquid. As the reduction proceeds, the bubbles that form around the sides of the pot will become larger and larger. These bubbles can serve as a visual clue as to the “room temperature” viscosity of the finished reduction. When the largest of these bubbles is the size of a nickel, remove the pan from the heat, strain the sauce and allow it to cool to room temperature.

PANCETTA VINAIGRETTE:

In a wide sauté pan over high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the pancetta and render until it is crispy.

Once the pancetta is crispy, add the shallots and garlic; turn off the heat. Stir in the thyme, sherry vinegar and remaining olive oil. Season lightly to taste with salt and pepper, being careful not to add too much salt; the pancetta will season this sauce most of the way.

ASSEMBLY AND PLATING:

To successfully prepare this dish, all the ingredients must be prepared ahead of time, as the final cooking and plating will only take minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a 1-2 gallon pot large enough to accommodate all of the potato and cheese pansoti, bring salted water to a boil. (If your pot is not large enough, plan on cooking the pansoti in batches to avoid overcrowding them.)

Rewarm the roasted acorn squash in the 350-degree oven.

Drop the pansoti into the boiling water. Test them for doneness by pinching the edges to see if the pasta is tender (3-4 minutes). (The best way to test doneness is to cook an extra pansoti and taste it. The pasta should be firm but cooked through.)

As the pasta cooks, place 3 warm squash rings around each plate. Remove the pansoti from the pot, skimming them from the water. Place 4-5 pansoti on each plate, on top of the squash.

Spoon the warm pancetta vinaigrette over the pansoti. Drizzle the fig port reduction on the pansoti and around the plate. Garnish each pansoti with a cross of 2 chive batons.

CHEF’S NOTES: You can make the fig port reduction in advance. You can make the pansoti filling and pasta dough a day ahead.

Jennifer Jasinski was born and raised in Santa Barbara, California, until she decided to attend The Culinary Institute of America at its Hyde Park, New York campus. She worked first in kitchens in New York City, before moving to Los Angeles, California, where she worked under Wolfgang Puck. In 2000, she moved to Denver, Colorado, where she became head chef at the Panzano restaurant within Hotel Monaco. She stayed for five years, until together with Beth Gruitch, she opened her own restaurant, Rioja, within the same city. For her work at the restaurant, she won the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Southwest Chef in 2013.

She has since opened several further restaurants in Denver including Euclid Hall, Bistro Vendome and Stoic & Genuine.