This issue features Santa Lucia Highlands, SLH for short, in Monterey, California. It is a small, fine wine-growing area where multi-generational families farm the land and have grown to understand how to grow grapes sustainably. They have mastered producing world-class Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. There are no fancy hotels or Michelin-starred restaurants located near SLH vineyards. You must travel one hour to Carmel-by-the-sea or Monterey if you would like lodging.. If you visit SLH, you will find hard-working vintners behind some of California’s most highly acclaimed wines.
Our Passion and Portraits column features winemaker Jason Moulton of Whitehall Lane in St. Helena. Jason has one of the most extensive resumes of any winemaker we have ever met. He confesses that he has recently become a weather-driven winemaker.
This issue’s Grape Expectations Column features Malbec. Malbec’s small, dark berries are known for thick skins, which give rise to robust tannins and deep purple pigmentation.
Check out our editor’s top wine picks and ratings.
The 2024 Tequila and Mezcal Buyers guide features the top winners from the Tequila Mezcal Challenge. It includes food pairings and recipes from two TV celebrity chefs.
Sante!
CD Somm Tour visit to Morgan Double L Vineyard in Santa Lucia Highlands
Wine Country International ® Magazine
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EDITORS LETTER
Pages 3
FIRST COURSE
6-8 Food Pairing with Mezcal
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS
PARTING SHOTS
Pages 34-38 Malbec
Pages 12-13
2023 Tequila Mezcal Challenge “Best of The Best”
SPIRITED CHAT
Food
Food Pairing with Mezcal and Tequila
Pairing with Mezcal and Tequila Food Pairing with Mezcal and Tequila Food Pairing with Mezcal and Tequila Food Pairing with Mezcal and Tequila
By Chef Zuri Resendiz, Food Network Celebrity Chef and owner of Luchador Food Truck and Luchador Tacos + More Restaurant, Denver, Colorado
Mezcal
When tasting an artisanal Mezcal, it’s essential to understand that the process is simple. With the first sip, you should merely introduce the Mezcal to your lips and tongue—with Mezcal’s higher alcohol content, taking a moment to allow yourself to acclimate to the difference is good. Balancing a fatty food with a rich but acidic mezcal (think citrus, pine, or spice) can bring out the best in both.
Food Pairing: Cochinita Pibil
Cochinita pibil is a traditional Yucatec Mayan slow-roasted pork dish from the Yucatán Peninsula.
Chef Zuri states, “In the Yucatán Peninsula, the smoky flavors of mezcal can harmonize beautifully with the traditional dish of
Chef Zuri states, “In the Yucatán Peninsula, the smoky flavors of mezcal can harmonize beautifully with the traditional dish of Cochinita Pibil, which features slow-roasted pork marinated in citrus and achiote paste.”
Tequila
Tasting and pairing food with tequila is like tasting wine. You should start out with lighter tequila, especially when pairing with fish or poultry.
Food Pairing: Ahi Tuna Ceviche on Tostada
Chef Zuri states, “Silver or blanco tequila pairs well with herbs, citrus, and fresh fish. Think of lighter dishes that aren’t too spicy. Silver goes best with citrus, like lemon, lime, and grapefruit, acidic dishes, cold appetizers, and chilled seafood dishes like ceviche and ahi tuna tostada.”
Recipes
COCHINITA PIBIL
• Toasting the spices in oil develops flavor for the marinade.
• A combination of lime, orange, and grapfruit juice mimics the flavor of Seville oranges commonly used in the Yucatán.
• Wrapping pork tightly in banana leaves helps trap moisture, resulting in tender meat.
• Cooking the pork “slow and low “at a low temperature (250 F) helps with textures and flavors.
• 1 whole head of garlic, separated into individual unpeeled cloves
• 2 TBSP (30ml) lard or vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup achiote (annatto) seeds (1 1/2 ounces; 40g)
• 2 TBSP (about 6g) Mexican oregano
• 3 whole cloves
• 1 (3-inch) Ceylon cinnamon stick, or a 1 1/2 inch piece of cassia cinnamon (see note)
• 2 TBSP (about 8g) whole black peppercorns
• 1 TBSP (about 4g) whole cumin seeds
• 1 TBSP (about 4g) whole allspice berries
• 3/4 cup (175ml) bitter (Seville) orange juice, or 1/4 cup (60ml) each lime, orange, and grapefruit juice
• 1/4 cup (60ml) white vinegar
• 1 TBSP (15ml) soy sauce
• Kosher salt
Pork:
• 4 pounds (1.8kg) of high-quality pork shank
• 6 to 8 banana leaves
• 2 Roma tomatoes, sliced
• 1 red or green bell pepper, sliced
• 1 white onion, sliced
• 12 bay leaves
Add the pork and ingredients in a roasting pan and cover with foil. Roast the pork at 250 degrees for ten hours.
AHI Tuna Ceviche on Tostada Ingredients for making the Ahi Tuna Ceviche
• 12 oz Sushi-Grade Tuna cut into 1/2-inch cubes.
• 1 TBSP sesame oil
• 1/4 cup soy sauce or substitute coconut aminos to make it gluten-free.
• 1 TBSP Maggi sauce
• ¼ Clamato juice
• 1/3 cup green onion sliced thin.
• 1/3 cup red onion sliced thin in ice bath.
• 1 cucumber slice
• 2 TBSP Furikake Seasoning
• 6 blue corn tortillas to make tostadas Shells.
• 3 oz guacamole
• Micro Cilantro
• Blue Borage edible flowers
Instructions
1. To make these tostadas, start by preparing your ahi tuna; cut your tuna into cubes and add them to a large bowl alongside the sesame oil, soy sauce, Maggi sauce, Clamato juice, chopped green onion.
2. Toss to coat everything well, until the tuna cubes are fully coated in the sauce.
3. Cover your bowl with the tuna, then place it in the refrigerator to marinate for 2 to 3 minutes. This will ensure that the tuna soaks in all those delicious flavors!
4. Strain and mix the marinated tuna with avocado and Leche de Tigre sauce, cucumbers, and red onions.
5. Once the tuna is done marinating, place your tostada shells onto a plate and top with your guacamole, along with a spoonful of the tuna mixture.
6. Finally, garnish each tostada with furikake seasoning, micro cilantro, and blue borage, and enjoy!
Recipe: Mezcal Cured Salmon Tostada, Avocado Crema with Citrus and Radish
By Chef Hosea Rosenberg, “Top Chef” Season 5 Champion, owner of Santo and Blackbelly Restaurants in Boulder, Colorado.
Food photo by Christopher J Davies.
Chef Hosea states, “One of our older, favorite dishes at Santo is Salmon cured in Mezcal. The salmon is “cooked” in Mezcal in the refrigerator for 3-4 days. The result is some salmon with light smokiness and tons of flavor.
Ingredients:
• 2lbs of high-quality, fresh Salmon
• 1 cup of Mezcal
• 2 TBSP brown sugar
• 2 TBSP kosher salt
• 2 TBSP lime juice
• 2 TBSP chopped oregano
• 2 TBSP chopped thyme
• 1 TBSP smoked paprika
• Avocado mousse (store-bought or scratchmade)
• 2 radishes
• package of spicy green shoots
• 6 crispy blue corn tortilla shells
Procedure:
Mix the Mezcal, brown sugar, salt, lime juice, oregano, thyme, and smoked paprika in a bowl. Place salmon in a dish and cover with the mixture. Make sure that the salmon is fully submerged. If not, add more Mezcal.
Let the salmon “cook” in your refrigerator for 3-4 days.
1. When done, remove the salmon from the marinade, rinse with water, and pat dry. Place the dry salmon on a plate and allow it to “air dry” in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
2. Slice the salmon thinly.
3. Add avocado mouse on a tortilla shell, place a slice of salmon on top, squeeze lime juice, and season to taste. Add slices of radish and garnish with spicy green shoots.
Pair with your favorite Mezcal!
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COOKING THE BOOKS
Slow Wine USA Guide 2024
A year in the life of the vineyards and wines of the USA. Currently, 402 wine producers out of 11,600 in the US (less than 4%) are now committed to the Slow Wine doctrine of producing clean wines without using chemicals. Their commitment takes work. Cultivating grapes according to organic standards is challenging. The growers are focused on climate resilience and diversity. It would help if you did not judge this book by its simple cover or lack of photographs or illustrations. This book is a fantastic resource for enthusiasts of clean wines, environmentally safe farming, and forthcoming new varietals to be released by innovative vignerons.
ISBN: 978-88-947332-1-1| 244 pages
Published by Slow Food Promozioine S.r.l
Softcover| $25
Clay Stone
Air Roots
Of Life, Cinema and Chianti Classico. It’s an incredible true story.
Famiglia Zingarelli
The Zingarelli family’s true-life fairytale is a fantastic Italian success story. The patriarch, Italo Zingarelli, began his career as one of Italy’s youngest professional boxers. He later became a successful director, producer, and screenwriter. His career in producing Spaghetti Westerns rivaled Sergio Leone’s. Italo’s most significant releases are They Call Me Trinity, and Trinity is Still My Name, which gained millions of fans. After a string of successes in 1973, Italo, of Emilia-Romagna descent, pursued his dream of delving into the Italian wine industry by launching Rocca delle Macie in Tuscany. This book came about in 2023 on the eve of the wine brand’s fiftieth anniversary. Rocca Delle Macie released a 50th-anniversary wine to pair with the book, 50° ANNIVERSARIO, a 2020 Chianti Classico Gran Selizione DOCG ***** 1.5 L: $150
The book is beautifully designed, with an elegant cover and wrap embellishments. It contains historical black-and-white photographs, movie set images, and jaw-dropping color photographs.
ISBN: 978-88-09-97603-0
Published by Giunti Editore S.p.A
Hardcover| 39 €
2nd Place
Proximo Spirits Gran Coramino Anejo) (96 pts)
1st Place:
Digame Public Benefit CorporationDona Loca Tobala Mezcal Ancestral (96 pts)
Since 2019, the Tequila Mezcal Challenge has strived to define excellence in more than 60 categories of Agave spirits. This prestigious competition is the only one of its kind globally that accepts entries of Tequila, Mezcal, Agave Spirits, and Ready-to-Drink (RTD) Premixed Cocktails.
We are excited to present you with the list of top winners!
We are excited to present you with the list of top winners!
“Best of Show” First Place
Dona Loca Tobala Mezcal Ancestral 96 points/ Double Gold
“Best of Show” Second Place
Spirits Gran Coramino Anejo
96 points/ Double Gold
“Best of Show” Third Place
Cierto Tequila Private Collection, Blanco
95 points/ Double Gold
Gold Winners:
Mezcal 33 Reposado
91 points
Cierto Tequila Private Collection, Reposado
91 points
Cierto Tequila Private Collection, Extra Anejo
91 points
Cierto Tequila Reserve Collection, Blanco
93 points
Cutwater Tequila Reposado
91 points
Products Showcased:
Cutwater Tequila Anejo
93 points
Cutwater Mezcal Reposado
92 points
Cutwater Mezcal Anejo
92 points
Cutwater Mango Margarita
91 points
Cutwater Pineapple Margarita
91 points
Cutwater Spicy Pineapple Margarita
92 points
Camarena Familia Camarena Anejo
91 points
Don Fulano Tequila Imperial Extra Anejo
93 points
Gran Centenario Plata
91 points
Gran Centenario Reposado
91 points
Creyente Azul Mezcal Cristalino
91 points
Gran Coramino Cristalino
91 points
Jose Cuervo Reposado
91 points
Jose Cuervo Cristalino
91 points
Maestro Dobel Humito
91 points
Maestro Dobel 50
91 points
1800 Blanco
92 points
1800 Milenio
91 points
1800 Reposado
92 points
TC CRAFT Anejo Tequila
91 points
TC CRAFT Anejo Tequila
91 points
Casa Obsidiana Añejo
91 points
Un Momento Destilado con Mango
92 points
Tasmania’s Magical Wines
On the far side of the world lies a magical little island kingdom…
No, this is not the beginning of a fairy tale, but rather a peek into the wonderful world of wines and food discovered on a recent visit to southern Tasmania. This relatively remote island off the southern coast of mainland Australia is the country’s smallest state, and also one of its best wine regions. In fact, it produces Australia’s most impressive ‘Traditional Method’ (i.e. as made in Champagne) sparkling wines. But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. First, a bit of geography.
Tasmania straddles latitude 42 degrees South, significantly furthersouth than mainland Australia. The next stop is Antarctica! Think cool-climate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. While the island has several distinct wine sub-regions, this story focuses on the wine country surrounding the capital Hobart in southern Tasmania.
Hobart lies on the Derwent River and this valley is the nearest wine-growing region to the city. A 30-minute drive upriver brings you to a cluster of wineries including Stefano Lubiano, Derwent Estate, and Laurel Bank. These are all quality-focused wineries, producing some of Tassie’s best wines.
Derwent Estate makes a wide range of wines including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Riesling. Don’t miss the superb Calcaire Chardonnay, winemaker John Schuts’s attempt to convey the impact of the high calcium levels in the estate’s limestone soils. It’s perfectly balanced and smoky with subtle citrus, apple, and crushed stone minerality. Follow up your cellar door visit with lunch here at The Shed, where Chef Andrew Russell will take you on a culinary journey using locally sourced produce showcasing the finest ingredients that Tassie has to offer.
Story and Photos by Lance Berelowitz, DipWSET
Stefano Lubiano Wines is owned by a sixthgeneration wine family with Italian roots. They practice environmentally holistic grape growing in their estate vineyards, following through with minimal intervention winemaking. Tasmania’s first certified biodynamic vineyard, they’ve been cultivating their vines using biodynamic methods since 2010. Most of the 26ha estate is planted to the two great Burgundian varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, used for both sparkling and still wines. The winery also hosts Osteria Vista, one of the region’s top restaurants, and is not to be missed for a delicious Italian lunch overlooking the river valley.
At Laurel Bank winery I had a private visit with winemaker Greer Carland, she’s the daughter of founder Kerry Carland, and also makes delicious wines under her own Quiet Mutiny label. We tasted her wines right in the vineyard, which is situated on north-facing slopes overlooking the Derwent River. The vineyard has a cool maritime microclimate and black cracking clay soils, ideally suited to the varieties planted: primarily Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir. The latter wine was poised, elegant, balanced, and lithe, with perfumed strawberry and raspberry fruit notes. While Laurel Bank is not yet set up to welcome visitors, do look out for Greer’s wonderfully pristine wines in stores and restaurants around Hobart.
THIS IS COLORADO WINE
Colorado is home to hundreds of passionate winemakers whose amazing wineries, cellars and tasting rooms span grand Western landscapes, the Plains, and the entire Front Range. With over 165 wineries scattered throughout our state, boasting varieties ranging from complex Cabernets to crisp Rieslings, finding a label you love is easy no matter where your adventures take you. Discover them all and show your support for our local winemakers at ThisIsColoradoWine.com.
Moorilla Winery just outside Hobart forms part of the cultural complex known as MONA (Museum of Old and New Art), an experience not to be missed on any visit to Tasmania. While the museum itself deserves its own review, I will confine myself to saying that Moorilla makes a wide range of interesting and unique wines. Take their Cloth White for example a blend of every white grape variety grown in their St. Matthias Vineyard, and a complex, spicy, textured wine. The tasting room is exquisite, and there are also great food options available at Moorilla/MONA.
Winemaker Conor van der Reest has worked in wineries around the world and across Australia. He also makes the wines at Moorilla’s sister winery Domaine A, which produces Bordeaux-inspired wines. If you can, try the Cabernet Sauvignon, which is considered one of Australia’s best exemplars of this classic variety.
Across the Derwent from Hobart brings you to the Coal River Valley, a beautiful area of rolling hills and farmer’s fields. It’s warmer and drier than most parts of the island, being in the rain shadow of the Central Highlands mountains. Here you will find numerous wineries such as Puddleduck, Pressing Matters, and Pooley Wines.
Pressing Matters, owned by the Hall and Melick families, recently opened a stunning new winery and tasting room. Highly regarded winemaker Samantha Connew is in charge of the winery, where she also makes her own label
Stargazer Wines. Sam generously poured almost the entire Pressing Matters range, and then also opened a couple of her more experimental Stargazer wines.
Pressing Matters are Riesling specialists and Sam makes four versions with different levels of sweetness: the R0 (zero residual sugar), R9, R69, and R139 (a lusciously sweet dessert wine). These wines are significantly lower in alcohol than most Australian Rieslings and the intense fruit flavors are balanced with natural acidity.
Finally, no visit to the Coal River Valley is complete without a stop at Pooley Wines, named 2023 Winery of the Year in the Halliday Wine Companion, Australia’s definitive annual wine guide. Located just outside the charming village of Richmond, the Pooley family’s heritage-listed Georgian house and cellar door sit just opposite their Cooinda Vale Vineyard, from which comes one of two single-vineyard Pinot Noirs. This and their Butcher’s Hill Pinot Noir are two of Tasmania’s most highly rated Pinots. Tasting them sideby-side was a fitting end to my visit to Tasmania.
When in Tasmania, don’t miss its fantastic seafood including oysters, crayfish (rock lobster) and smoked trout, and artisanal cheeses from King Island. They go perfectly with those delectable Tassie sparkling wines.
UNTAPPED TERROIRS
Vinifilles : Les
A New Wind Blowing through France’s Languedoc
Story and Photos by Lance Berelowitz unless noted
The Languedoc is a vast, diverse, and relatively undiscovered region, from coastal lagoons where oysters are raised to limestone crags where eagles soar, and river gorges with natural swimming pools between the two. Add in medieval villages and gracious cities such as Montpellier and Pezenas, fantastic wines and food, and you have the makings of a memorable visit. Move over, Provence.
Whatever you do, don’t tell Pascale Rivière that her wines are ‘propre’ (French for ‘clean’ or ‘proper’). The owner of La Jasse Castel winery, Pascale has a feisty temperament, and a previous comment like that by a male French wine critic really got her going, as she relates the story to me in her simple yet functional winery just outside the village of St-Jean-de-Fos in the Terrasses du Larzac. Located west of Montpellier in the south of France, the Terrasses du Larzac is just one of the fastevolving appellations in the greater Languedoc. Its wines are now among the best in this huge region that stretches from west of the Rhone River along the Mediterranean down towards the Spanish border, and up into the foothills of the Massif Central.
UNTAPPED
TThe Languedoc has seen a revolution in wine production this past decade. While French authorities give subsidies to grape farmers to remove vineyards on the coastal plain where most of the high-volume ‘value’ wines are produced, the opposite is true of several Languedoc appellations further inland and at higher altitudes, and the number of such appellations continues to grow in lockstep with the quality focus. Newer appellations include Pic Saint-Loup, Terrasses du Larzac, and La Clape. All these areas, each with their own distinctive microclimates and soils, are transforming the Languedoc into the most dynamic wine region in France.
The Vinifilles — currently comprising about 20 women winegrowers — is, as its website renders it in English translation, an association of “creatures of the female sex engaged in viticulture in Occitania, united in 2009, fans of the pleasure and richness of their professions, beautiful, rebellious, active, greedy, friendly, sociable and dynamic!” They “share know-how and develop mutual aid between our winegrowers; preserve the terroirs, landscapes, and environment that we love and defend; and transmit the culture of wine, conviviality and gastronomy by involving men and women from all backgrounds in our movement.” Phew!
In the fall of last year, I visited the Languedoc and met with several members of Les Vinifilles.
In 1987 Pascale Rivière acquired her first vineyards on the uplands around St Jean-de-Fos and Montpeyroux, villages at the base of the Terrasses du Larzac plateau. Fiercely independent, she is a passionate defender of the
wines of this region, and of what the Vinifilles have achieved since she helped create the group in 2009. Terms like “solidarity”, “respect”, and “fighting for our rights” liberally sprinkle her account of her winemaking journey.
Pascale makes a range of wines from diverse vineyard holdings. Her El Abanico white is an intriguing blend of grape varietals that includes Chenin Blanc. With bottle age, it takes on complex, smoky, petrol notes along with passion fruit, as tasted in the 2016 vintage that she kindly poured. Her reds are equally interesting and include several variations on the classic Languedoc varietals Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault, and Carignan. Don’t miss the full-bodied, rich, complex Les Combariolles, which is mostly Grenache with Syrah playing a supporting role.
UNTAPPED TERROIRS
Photo credit: Lance Berelowitz
Up the road from Montpeyroux, the hamlet of Arboras clings to the hillside overlooking the Herault River valley. Here I met another Vinifille, Marie Chauffray at Domaine de la Réserve d’O, in one of the highest, coolest parts of the Terrasses du Larzac. We drive up onto the high plateau above the village, where Marie’s prized old-vine Syrah and Grenache vineyards are located, overlooked by the imposing Mont Saint-Baudille. This is rugged garrigue country, and I keep my eyes posted for a glimpse of the resident Bonelli eagles. The surrounding forests moderate the winds that blow off the mountain and provide shade. As Marie puts it, “ici on serche l’ombre” (here we seek the shade).
Marie makes elegant wines from these rocky soils, which ferrous oxide turns red. She tells me she aims for “an equilibrium of acidity and alcohol,” which could well stand for the classic Terrasses du Larzac wine profile. Her flagship wine La Resérve d’O — a complex, layered Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault blend aged in amphoras and concrete vats — authentically reflects this special terroir. The Hissez O cuvée meanwhile is from the highest part of her vineyard at 400 m altitude, and is an arresting, oakaged, Syrah-dominated blend that is balanced, complex and elegant.
UNTAPPED TERROIRS
Lidewij van Wilgen is a Dutch transplant to the Languedoc, and another Vinifille. Her fully organic Terre des Dames winery is located on the edge of the Saint Chinian AOC, near Beziers. However most of her wines are classified as IGP or Vin de Pays, which gives Lidewij more flexibility in her winemaking than the rigid AOC regulations permit.
We taste together on the terrace of Lidewij’s 18th Century country mas (farmhouse), surrounded by her vineyards, which are planted in small plots surrounded by stone walls and scrubland forming a natural southfacing amphitheater. Terre des Dames is completely organic, and the vines – many are 50-100 years old – and surrounding landscapes attest to this. Her wines reflect this wild, healthy environment: alive, concentrated, and fresh. Don’t miss her L’Unique, from low-yield, hand harvested old-vine Syrah, aged in Burgundy barrels and amphorae. Truly unique!
Lidewij offers ‘Wine Weekends’ for small groups at her charming home: she organizes workshops in winetasting, blending, and food and wine pairings, combined with visiting the surrounding region. I make a mental note to sign up on my next visit. You should too.
Where to Stay:
Domaine des Condamines
Charming, fully-equipped self-catering ‘Gite’ country house accommodation in the heart of the Terrasses du Larzac vineyards, with swimming pool, outdoor patio, hammock and BBQ. https://www.domainedescondamines.com/en/
Terre des Dames
See ‘Wine Weekend’ offering above, graceful winery accommodation in the owner’s restored farmhouse.
https://terredesdames.com/en/home-page/
Hotel Richer de Belleval
A 5-star hotel in the heart of Montpellier’s old city on the emblematic Place de la Canourgue, and a member of the luxurious Relais & Chateaux group. https://www.hotel-richerdebelleval.com/en/
Where to Eat:
Montpeyroux:
La Terrasse du Mimosa
Charming restaurant located in the heart of this wine village with its tables spilling out over the central Place (square). Owner Clotaire Gaillard will take good care of you. Excellent food. https://www.terrassedumimosa.fr/en/
Olargues: Fleurs d’Olargues
A top-rated French-Danish fusion restaurant in this atmospheric medieval village, with a beautiful view from its outdoor terrace overlooking the river.
https://www.fleursdeolargues.com/
Bouzigues:
Le St Pierre Tarbouriech
A fantastic oyster and shellfish cabin located right on the waterfront overlooking the Etang de Thau lagoon, just outside Bouzigues. https://www.tarbouriech-le-st-pierre-bouzigues.fr/
Malbec
Story by Elizabeth Woessner.
by Christopher J Davies
Malbec [Mal-bek] is a sun-loving little grape born in Southwest France, where it is known as “Côt” in Touraine, “Auxerrois” in Cahors, and happily goes by simply Malbec in Bordeaux and Argentina. Pressac is not used anywhere these days and can be confused with Ch. de Pressac in St. Emilion. Thanks to the grape’s inky color and powerful tannins, it is often recruited as a key blending grape in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. In Cahors, Malbec shines bright on its own with deep color, concentration, and engaging structure.
Incidents beyond its control (terrible phylloxera plague in the late 19th century, and the “Great Frost” in 1956 which destroyed most of the vineyards in France) forced the Malbec grape to escape the confines of its homeland and travel the world, seeking new regions with sunny days and high altitudes where it could finally showcase its full potential. Let’s take a trip with this wandering grape and discover the magnificent wines it produces today.
Malbec’s small, dark berries are known for thick skins, which give rise to robust tannins and deep purple pigmentation. The grape’s flavor profile leans heavily into black fruit character, black pepper, and licorice. Tertiary aromas like vanilla, coconut, and smoke can develop with oak-aging. These grapes struggle to keep their acidity at lower elevations but higher elevations with significant diurnal temperature shifts between day and night create ideal conditions for higher acidity levels to develop within the grape clusters. At their best, Malbec wines offer a beautiful balance between fruit, tannin,
alcohol, sugar, and acidity There are two main styles of Malbec: fruit-forward style and full-bodied style from Argentina, and the lesser known, more rustic and tannic versions from Cahors. Both styles exist in various regions worldwide depending on the region’s terroir and winemaking techniques used. Malbec also makes its mark as a mission-critical blending component with many red varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet, Carmenère, Merlot, and more.
While over 75% of the world’s Malbec is now grown in Argentina, it is important to explore the grape’s homeland in France. In both Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, Malbec is a key player in the regions’ red blends. It lost favor in both regions due to its temperamental nature and sensitivity to environmental factors. First, in 1856 phylloxera wiped out huge swaths of vineyards throughout France. The only solution was to graft grapevines onto American rootstocks to protect them. Unfortunately, Malbec did not take well to this grafting and winemakers opted to replant with other varieties.
Photos
Malbec at Kaikén Wines, Mendoza
The great winter freeze of 1956 sealed the fate of the capricious grapes, once again transforming the country’s viticulture landscape. That year temperatures dropped to -26 °C, rivers froze, and almost 20 inches of snow fell on the French Riviera. While its hardier siblings survived the freeze, it was too much for Malbec grapes, which were completely decimated. Most winemakers in Bordeaux chose to replant those vineyards with more vigorous and cold-resistant varieties such as Merlot. The Côtes de Bourg, located justNorth of the city of Bordeaux, was spared the worst of the damage and continues to make Malbec-driven red wines, but in the rest of Bordeaux and in the Loire Valley, Malbec has been relegated to a minor player. Only in the Cahors region of Southwest France is Malbec still a dominant grape. Cahors AOC wines must contain a minimum of 70% Malbec and may be blended with Tannat or Merlot. Today many winemakers in Cahors are making 100% varietal Malbec wines.
While winemakers in Southwest France continue to strive to create world-class wines from the finicky Malbec grape, it is in the mountains of Argentina, 7000 miles away where Malbec has truly come into its own. In the mid-1800s a French agronomist, Michel Pouget, advised Argentinian winemakers to start planting Malbec. The challenges the grape presented to French winemakers do not exist in the hot, high-altitude regions of Argentina where the diurnal temperature shifts allowed the grape to flourish in ways it never could in France. Today, Malbec is Argentina’s flagship grape variety and makes up about 50% of the grapes grown in the region. It thrives in the Mendoza region, especially in high-altitude areas like Lujan de Cuyo and the Uco Valley in the Andes Mountains. Here the wines taste quite different from those from Southwestern France. In general, a French Malbec shows more red tones than purple color hues with a fruit-forward palate profile that delivers more savory, earthy notes and often savory or herbaceous accents. While an Argentinian Malbec will exhibit a darker purple color, intense black fruit flavors with a softer texture, and integrated tannins.
Malbec
Vineyard at Zuccardi Valle de Uco
While Mendoza is Argentina’s largest and most prolific Malbec producing region, there are other regions that produce some of the country’s best wines. Salta in northern Argentina is surrounded by Paraguay, Bolivia, and Chile and boasts some of the highest altitude vineyards in the world, some almost 10,000 ft above sea level, creating intensely flavored wines with increased acidity and integrated tannins. Argentina is unquestionably where Malbec has reached its full potential. However, growing Malbec in Argentina presents several challenges that if not addressed could drastically prevent the growing of world-class grapes. In Mendoza and San Juan, vineyard managers often use anti-hail netting to prevent the devastating damage to both fruit and foliage caused by hail. This netting has the added benefit of protecting the vineyards from the unrelenting sun. In Southern Mendoza, the Calchaqui Valley, and Salta the temperatures can be so high that they will damage the plants and create a cooked/burnt fruit flavor in the wine. Judicious pruning to create a leafy shade canopy over the grapes and ventilation can help offset the heat. Along with the searing temperatures, a lack of rainfall will decimate a vineyard without proper irrigation. Finally, if hot, arid conditions weren’t enough, many Malbec vineyards are severely affected by spring frosts. If the temperature drops sharply in the spring when the vines start to bud, it can damage the emerging buds and prevent fruit from setting on the vine. Over the years, pioneering winemakers have successfully overcome these threats to their vineyards. Elsewhere in South America, the bordering countries of Paraguay and Chile are beginning to make beautiful varietal
high-altitude Malbec wines. South American Malbec often offers remarkable quality to price ratios.
California was the first wine region in the United States, and it prospered creating great varietal wines until Prohibition. Today, much like Bordeaux, Malbec is mostly used as a blending grape. Oregon and Washington State have become the standard-bearers for Malbec in the U.S. Seven Hills Winery was the first to plant Malbec in the Walla Walla Valley. Malbec is the fifth most planted grape in Washington State. Malbec lovers can find it throughout the U.S., including in New York’s North Fork and Finger Lakes regions, where winemakers are producing delicious Malbec wines. Winemakers in Virginia, Michigan, Texas, and Georgia are all enamored with this incredible grape and are producing exceptional wines that are worth seeking out.
Malbec had a rough start in Australia, but regions such as Langhorne Creek and the Clare Valley are experimenting with new Malbec clones. Elsewhere in the world, you will find Malbec growing in Israel, Canada, South Africa, and New Zealand.
Pairing food with Malbec is easy and fun; its medium body, versatile palate profile, and medium tannins allow you to pair it with savory dishes. Proteins such as pork, lamb, lean steak, and gamey meats like bison, ostrich, or venison are a safe bet with Malbec, especially if compliemented with a rich sauce.
Bobby Richards, Winemaker at Seven Hills
Winery, Walla Walla
In Walla Walla Washington, Seven Hills Winery produces a delicious single-vineyard Malbec. The popular Walla Walla restaurant Walla Walla Steak Company serves this intensely concentrated wine with their Tenderloin Diablo. General Manager Kris Nearents notes, “The Malbec is a perfect pairing for the Diablo. The undertone of fruit, with white pepper and cigar, pairs very well with the richness of the Diablo. Making them the perfect pair for these cold winter nights.”
Malbec has a storied history starting in France and spanning the globe. Today, it is thriving in North America, South America,
and many New World growing regions, thanks to its ongoing adaptability and innovative winemaking technology. Whether featured solo as a single-vineyard varietal wine or making the most of the blend, Malbec is a savvy, capable grape that partners well with all sorts of savory meat-themed dishes. Delivering consistent quality at a variety of price points, Malbec is ready to rumble well in the under $20 category or fully capable of thrilling when there’s the urge to splurge at higher price points. With so many regional expressions, there is always something new to discover with the crowd-pleasing nuances of the modern Malbec.
Barrel cellar aging
Malbec at
Bodega Catena Zapata
vinoTasting
2024 Editor’s Choice Malbec
Our editors contacted several of our favorite Malbec producers around the world. Here are the results of our tasting. Just so you know, we rate wines on a simple 5-point system. It is similar to hotel star ratings. This is shown as glasses instead of stars. ������= GOOD, ��������= EXCELENT, ����������= OUTSTANDING.
Piatelli Vineyards Reserve
Malbec 2021
Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina $18��������
On the nose, floral and fruity notes of violets, red currants, and red cherries combine to introduce gentle flavors of blackcurrant and cassis with a persistent, velvety finish.
Bodega Salentein Primum
Malbec 2015
Valle de Uco, Argentina $70 ����������
The nose on this dark ruby Malbec delivers complex aromas of black fruits such as black cherry and blueberry. It is supported on the palate with sweet tannins from oak balanced perfectly by a lively acidity and a lingering finish.
Bodega Vistalba Tomero
Malbec 2022
Mendoza, Argentina $13 ��������
Bright and juicy with a wonderful energy; ripe red and dark forest fruit, a savory palate with a refreshing fruity finish.
Chateau Haut Monplaisir
Cahors Prestige 2016
Southwest France, $25 ��������
The wine is dark and brooding with an intense color matched by concentrated flavors of blackberries, fig, black pepper, and baking spices that linger through a fullflavored finish.
Dona Paula Estate High
Altitude Malbec 2022
Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina $15��������
Dark ruby color. Aromas of plums, blueberry, and lavender. Great balance and fresh fruit in the mouth.
Piatelli Vineyards Arlene
Series Malbec Blend 2018, Cafayette Valley Argentina $50 ��������
Super fragrant aromas of dark plums and cherries followed by hints of licorice and mint. Balanced with bright acidity and wellmanaged tannins.
Saracina Vineyards
Malbec 2018
Mendocino, California $40 ������
Rich with aromas of ripe plum, balsamic, and dried fruits. On the palate, more black fruit joins the party with hints of licorice and dried herbs to round out the wine.
Bodega Salentein Nuumina
Malbec 2020
Valle de Uco, Argentina $30 ��������
Heady scents of ripe blackcurrant, and cassis open onto a dense robust palate with brambly fruit, sweet spices, and a long vanilla finish.
Zuccardi Vinos de Pueblo
Poligonos Malbec 2021
San Pablo, Valle de Uco, Argentina $35 ��������
With a perfect balance between the tannins and the fruit, blackberries, blueberries, and licorice notes are highlighted by a tangy acidity with cracked black pepper and medium tannins to round out the palate.
Bodega Salentein La
Pampa 97 Malbec 2019
San Pablo, Valle de Uco, Argentina $65 ��������
Loads of spice and black and red cherry aromas with notes of chocolate. On the lively palate, a heady mix of red and black berry flavors mingle with fine-textured tannins.
Coyote Canyon Winery
HH Estates G.W. Smith
Malbec 2020
Horse Heaven Hills, WA, $50��������
Herbal hints of mint and dill play beautifully with the juicy ripe red fruits and oaky tannins that structure this wine. Hints of mint and dill and a long vanilla oak finish.
Zuccardi Vinos de Pueblo
Poligonos Malbec 2021
Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina $35��������
The minerality of river rocks forms the background of this rich fruity, almost Jamy wine. Dark chocolate and blackberries round out the sweet palate.
Dona Paula Estate
Seleccion de Bodega 2019
Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina $65 ����������
An elegant and expressive Malbec with complex dark fruit flavor and aromas. A layered palate with touches of baking spice, and dark chocolate highlighted by well-structured tannins.
Catena Zapata Alta
Malbec 2020
Mendoza, Argentina $60 ����������
Fruity aromas of plums and cherries stand out against an herbal background of dill and river rocks. Warm, rounded, and wellstructured on the palate, with an explosion of fruit flavors.
Catena Zapata Malbec
Argentino 2021
Mendoza, Argentina $120����������
Scents of blackberry, blueberry, and licorice jump out of this extremely aromatic wine. Intense and robust with elegant flavors of dark fruit, layered with hints of licorice, chocolate, and cardamom.
&PortraitsPassion
Jason Moulton, Winemaker at Whitehall Lane
Story and portrait by Christopher J Davies
Other photos provided by Whitehall Lane
Denver, Colorado
We met with winemaker Jason Moulton at LeRoux restaurant in Denver. Jason was visiting on the eve of Wine Spectator Magazine’s first-ever Grand Tour in Denver. This tasting was to feature 230 wines that scored 92 or higher. Jason was to pour Whitehall Lane Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Leonardini Estate 2019, 93 points.
About 50% of the 232 participating wine producers were represented by vintners or winemakers, which was a rare experience since you got to speak with the folks who made the wine.
Darcy and I joined Jason for lunch at LeRoux, a Mediterranean restaurant based on Denver’s tourist 16th Street Mall. The restaurant was empty and quiet, which made it a perfect setting for this interview. After a few minutes, we discovered that we all shared an appreciation for rosé wines. Jason prefers to produce rosé from grapes that are handpicked earlier in the vineyard when the mature flavors develop, and the sugar levels are low. Moulton currently produces two rosé wines at Whitehall Lane: a still version and a Blanc de Noirs Sparkling wine using artisanal-level riddling racks. Like Champagne, the sparkling rosé is made in the traditional, labor-intensive Méthode Champenoise style.
We talked about his extensive experience making wines around the globe. Then, the subject of wildfires and global warning came up. Both Colorado and California have recently suffered massive destruction caused by wildfires. Both states have been affected by drought and adverse weather conditions.
Jason remarked, “Now more than ever, I am a weather-driven winemaker.”
Jason Moulton is a reflective, easy-going person with a mountain of industry experience. He grew up in Illinois. From early on, Jason’s parents’ love for wine, cuisine, and travel greatly influenced his life. The family loves wine and likes to spend holidays in Italy.
Not surprisingly, Jason’s first internship was at a winery in southern Illinois. He later started his professional career as a cellar master in Rutherford, but he spread his wings and took off to New Zealand, where he received his degree from Lincoln University. He developed experience
Author’s note:
I later reached out to Jason via email with a list of questions. He was busy with harvest activities but did manage to provide the
Q&A’s
Pairings, Education, Restaurant Markups, Career tips, and perfect picking for Rosé.
Winemaker Jason Moulton Questions and Answers Editor-in Chief Christopher J Davies.
Davies: What are your favorite recent food pairings with Whitehall Lane wines?
Moulton: For our WHL 2022 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc, I recently had a butter lettuce salad with grilled yellow peaches, burrata, and walnuts with an EVOO/Balsamic vinaigrette— perfect pairing with the stone fruit in the wine matching against the peaches in the salad.
For our WHL 2021 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, I enjoy making lamb burgers with goat cheese and arugula on a toasted brioche bun. The goat cheese cuts through some of the tannins while the richness of the lamb balances out the wine even further.
Davies: What should the industry be doing to cultivate new wine drinkers?
Moulton: Education is vital, but so is affordability. We must present affordable wines to the younger generation and discuss the need for food to be part of the experience. Some of the best conversations are at a dinner table with great wine and food coupled with people who enjoy your company.
Davies: We touched on the recent escalation in restaurant mark-ups on wines by the bottle. Do you have an opinion on how pricing affects sales?
Moulton: We are seeing an increase in the price of both bottles and “by the glass” wines on menus nationwide. Given the
PASSION & PORTRAITS
working with cool climate wines in Christ Church, New Zealand, and British Columbia, Canada. Jason even spent time on a floating university learning about mushrooms and moldy fungi for a while.
Moulton spent a dozen years making wine in Napa Valley, Russian River, Clear Lake County, B.C. Canada, New Zealand, Bordeaux, and South Africa. He has worked with renowned winemakers Philippe Melka, David Ramey, Kale Anderson, and Ashley Heisey.
In 2016, he returned to his roots in Rutherford and was appointed Winemaker at Whitehall Lane Winery. This job has proven to be a great fit for Jason and the Leonardini family, who are dedicated to sustainable green practices.
The Leonardi’s own six vineyards in Napa and two in Sonoma. In 1993, the Leonardini Family purchased the Whitehall Lane Winery estate. They made numerous improvements and upgrades to the winery and expanded vineyard holdings.
“It is wonderful to have a winemaker with a wealth of worldly wine experience,” said owner Katie Leonardini. “He brought new ideas and processes and has embraced our focus on environmental sustainability from the soil to the bottle. And the wines are fantastic!”
Jason lives in Napa with his wife and children. He reflects on his past, where he grew up in Chicago, and his current life, where he lives near a vineyard.
challenges over the past five years due to the COVID pandemic and economic volatility, it’s inevitable. Restaurants need to be able to pay their staff and deliver quality products to diners. Additionally, they need to keep costs down, as it’s costly to stock and manage a wine inventory. The difference in margin between the SRP and wine list price helps cover overhead and the maintenance of the wine program itself.
Ultimately, a restaurant must price the wines “by the glass” to cover the cost with the first pour. If they don’t, and nobody else orders a glass that evening, they can lose money on the transaction. Once open, that wine has a minimal shelf life. So, keeping prices reasonable on the producer side can lead to lower prices and more margin for the restaurant. Win-win.
That said, I love to order wines by the glass and try different options, but there is a point when pricing proves to deter some consumers from purchasing. From a customer perspective, why would they invest in wine when they could have two to three beers or two craft cocktails for the same price? Then again, it costs a lot more to produce a bottle of wine than it does to produce a couple of bottles of beer or cocktails. That is the dilemma we all face in the wine business. Ultimately, it comes down to wineries like ours including these variables in calculating our pricing strategy.
Q&A’s
Owners Katie Leonardini and Tom Leonardini, II, with Jason Moulton (center).
During the hectic harvest season, Jason has been known to bring a turntable with stereo to the crush pad. He finds music smooths everyone’s mood and might transfer good vibes to the grapes.
Louis Pasteur, Jancis Robinson and Education
Jason cites the historical importance of the world’s best-known microbiologist, Louis Pasteur, who discovered yeast and the study of fermentation and life-saving drugs. He states that British wine critic, journalist, and wine writer Jancis Robinson has had a profound influence on his career. Jason is eager to advance his knowledge and has obtained his level 2 certification with the Court of Master Sommeliers. In March 2024, Jason completed his MBA.
Have you ever met someone and made an immediate connection? After our lunch with Jason, Darcy and I felt like we had an instant connection. It was like we had known him for years. We are talking about taking a trip to visit him at the winery, post-harvest.
Later that evening, we attended the Wine Spectator Grand Tour Tasting in Denver. The event was packed with people. We found Jason and his wife at the Whitehall Lane Winery table with several couples huddled in front, picking his brain about wine and best vintages.
Jason was in his element, sharing his extensive knowledge with enthusiastic wine lovers.
Q&A’s
Davies: What advice can you share for young people that might be considering a path in winemaking?
Moulton: Be humble, ready to learn, work hard, and prepare for the unknown. Winemaking is a brilliant path, with each vintage offering physical and mental challenges.
Davies: During lunch, you mentioned that you like to pick grapes special to produce your rosé. Am I correct to say, that you pick earlier in the vineyard when the mature flavors are developing, and the sugar levels are low?
Moulton: For our Pinot Noir Rose, there is a target pH that I usually use when producing this wine. The Brix and resultant alcohol will be variable but targeting that pH (and hence acid) is critical to avoid adding tartaric acid for juice adjustment. The flavor development has never been a concern when reaching a pH/acid balance target when picking at this point, so I haven’t had to worry too much about it. The goal is to select and press whole clusters instead of a saignee-based Pinot Noir. Unfortunately, many rosé wine styles out in the world are by-products of saignee (bleeding the juice off grape skins) from red wine programs. The saignee style of winemaking forces winemakers to add back too much water and acid to reach an alcohol and pH/acid target. Therefore, the style (saignee or whole cluster) is all in the intention, and if the purpose is to make a traditional, whole cluster pressed rosé wine style, I think I’m there, and I let the wine speak for itself.
Whitehall Lane Wines
Our editors were delighted to taste the following selection of wines.
We rate wines on a simple 5-point system. It is like hotel star ratings. This is shown as glasses instead of stars.
3������ = GOOD,
4 ��������= EXCELENT,
5����������= OUTSTANDING.
Whitehall Lane Petaluma Gap Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, $34, ���������� Medium salmon/pink color. Aromas of cheery and strawberries. Crisp cranberry and raspberry flavors with a long finish. Elegant and foodfriendly. Screw cap closure.
Whitehall Lane Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $30, ��������
Whitehall Lane Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc 2022, $30 **** This wine is a Bordeaux-style blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon.
Whitehall Lane Sonoma Stage Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020, $45, ���������� Ruby red color. Aromas are fresh cranberry, cherry lifesavers, and nuts. Bright acidity, with lush flavors of strawberry and rhubarb. Round mouthfeel with a long finish.
Whitehall Lane Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, $56, ��������
96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot, 1% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep red color. Aromas of blackberry and vanilla with a touch of cigar. Velvety flavors of dark red fruits, black plums, dark chocolate, and toasted walnuts.
Santa Lucia Highlands Wind, Earth, & Fortitude
Story and photos by Christopher J Davies
LH S
California is the largest wine producer in the nation, with Napa, Sonoma, and Paso Robles garnering most of the limelight. This state is widely diversified, with exceptional microclimates and unique vineyard sites.
The Santa Lucia Highlands (SLH) Appellation is a small but mighty growing area within Monterey County. Over the past decade, sommeliers and wine geeks have gained an appreciation for the high-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines from SLH.
During the COVID lockdowns, I participated in several guided tastings with Hahn Family Wines conducted on Zoom with their winemaker. The Hahn family was one of the early pioneers of the region, arriving in the late seventies. Founders Nicky and Gaby Hahn are Swissborn. They had the foresight to recognize the region’s potential for producing world-class wines of unique character. I have been an ardent fan of Hahn Founders Pinot Noir for years.
The region received approval for the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA in 1992. Today, 5,700 acres of grapes are under vine in SLH, which is tiny in comparison to other AVAs in California.
Our old friend and wine industry veteran, Gwen McGill, contacted us in 2022 to inform us that she represented the region’s promotional association, Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans, as Executive Director. On the phone, Gwen enthusiastically told us about the wines and the passionate families that have invested decades striving to produce the best fruit that their vineyards can produce.
Santa Lucia Highlands is one of California’s least commercialized growing areas. It does not currently have a hotel or restaurant within the AVA. Most visitors base themselves in Carmel, located about 45 miles north. The rural drive from Carmel to SLH takes around an hour.
After several weeks of plotting, Gwen invited us to join the 2022 SLH Sommelier Tour. This annual event, sponsored by vintner and grower members, is conducted in June and is extremely well organized.
There were approximately 24 guests (including Darcy and me) from different parts of the country. We were the only journalists on the tour.
Day One - Monday
We flew in non-stop from Denver to Monterey. The flight took approximately two hours.
Gwen picked us up and drove us to the Carmel Mission Inn, just twenty minutes from the airport. The hotel was beautifully restored and had a hip vibe.
That evening, the attendees split into groups paired with vintners and winemakers.
Darcy and I were excited to join the six other guests and our host, Sabrine Rodems, winemaker of Wrath Wines. We were electrified to have dinner at the historic Sardine Factory. This mainstay in Monterey’s Canary Row has received countless awards and cred for its mammoth wine list.
Sabrine reserved the private Upstairs Wine Cellar, which features a centered 11-foot-long table surrounded by stone walls and a collection of the oldest wines on the property behind locked iron cages.
Darcy and I loved the Crispy Monterey Bay Calamari appetizer, Petrale Sole Meuniere, and Pacific Coast Sanddabs. Sabrine brought five different Wrath wines for our group to taste with the dinner. Collectively, we could not stop praising Sabrine’s luscious Pinot Noir that evening.
This legendary restaurant has one of America’s most exotic and expansive wine cellars. Fred Dame, (MS) Master Sommelier, had a successful reign at the restaurant in the early eighties and personally curated the wines in the cellar.
Sardine Factory Wine Cellar Facts:
• They have over 15,000 bottles cellared, divided by over two thousand labels.
• Oldest bottle known in the cellar: 1869 Château Marquis de Termes, Margaux.
Most expensive bottle that a customer can purchase: 1919 Château Margaux at $9,200.
The Sardine Factory Monterey, CA https://www.sardinefactory.com/
La Tache 2007, Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1964
Day Two - Tuesday
The following morning, after breakfast, the entire group was shuffled to a meeting room at 8:30 a.m. in the hotel. There, we attended a Sun, Wind, and Wine tasting and presentation by Steve McIntyre, McIntyre Vineyards, Theodora Lee, Theopolis Vineyards, Steve Peck, J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery, Bibiana Gonzales Rave Pisoni, Cattleya Wines, Scott Shapley, Roar Wines, and Adam Lee, Clarice Wines.
Master Class Part One
SLH wasted no time in wowing a room full of somms and journalists! We tasted two Chardonnays, four Pinot Noirs, and one Syrah, representing what the AVA produces. We learned that the Monterey region has 250,000 acres of irrigated farmland. The SLH region is known for its ground-effect wind and extended growing season.
Wines Tasted:
• 2018 McIntyre Vineyards Chardonnay, Estate Vineyard, $34, ***** Outstanding. Gold straw color. Scents of wildflowers and fresh fruit. Flavors of ripe apples, tart fruit, and peach. Long finish.
• 2020 ROAR Wines Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, $51, ****1/2- Ideal for seafood! Pale yellow color. Light floral scents. Flavors of ripe citrus highlighting lemon, grapefruit and spice. It has an excellent buttery, medium finish.
• 2018 Theopolis Vineyards Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, $48, ****1/2-Foodie fav! Crimson, burgundy color. The wine was aged in 25% new oak and 75% neutral oak. It has aromas of light cherry and vanilla. The taste is juicy and elegant, with soft tannins and great acidity.
• 2019 J. Lohr Vineyards “Highland Bench” Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, $35, ****1/2 Good buy! Crimson, burgundy color. Scents of black cherry, strawberry preserves, and cassis. Raspberry flavor with a creamy texture.
• 2019 Bernardus Pinot Noir, Rosella’s Vineyard (SLH), $80, **** Elegant, macho pinot! Crimson color. Aromas of dark fruits, pepper, and mesquite. Flavors of ripe cherry and cranberry.
• 2019 Clarice Wine Company Pinot Noir, Rosella’s Vineyard, $90, ****1/2Showstopper! It is dark ruby in color. It smells of dark cherry, blackberry, and plum. The flavors are cherry, plum, and black fruits. The finish is medium/long with firm tannins.
• Editor’s Note: Adam Lee is a highly sought-after winemaker consultant. It’s no wonder that he used all his powers and skills to create this masterpiece, selecting his fruit and matching it with a barrel selection of different types and ages of French Oak. Bravo.
• 2015 Cattleya Syrah, Soberanes Vineyard, $67, ****1/2 Silky and Elegant! Dark burgundy/opaque. Aromas of dark fruit, stone, and violet. Full-mouth, lush flavors of blueberry, dark cherry, oak, and spice.
After a short break, we all boarded a limo bus and headed from Carmel to Santa Lucia Highlands. Gwen loaded the bus with water, energy drinks, and snacks, which helped make us comfortable for the one-hour drive.
Morgan Winery
The first stop was Morgan Double L Vineyard, located on the SLH AVA’s north end. Co-founder Dan Lee greeted our bus and guided us to his family vineyard.
This husband-and-wife team owns 65 acres, 48 of which are planted under vine. The vineyard is certified organic.
Pinot Noir=28 acres, Chardonnay=18 acres, Syrah=1 acre and Riesling=1 acre
The property climbed upward and had several plateaus. From the top, the views of the valley are breathtaking. I noticed that blocks of vineyard rows were planted in different directions, exposing them to different angles of sunlight.
We enjoyed a lovely wine tasting on a lawn with several large trees offering shade. Staff members poured several whites and reds alongside platters of charcuterie and fresh raw oysters provided by Hog Island Oyster Co. During the tasting, we got to spend some time with Dan, his wife Donna, and their twin daughters Jackie and Annie.
Wines tasted:
• 2021 Morgan Dry Riesling
• 2020 Morgan Un-Oaked Chardonnay
• 2020 Morgan Chardonnay
• 2019 Morgan Pinot Noir
All wines were excellent and food-friendly.
Visit the vineyard in SLH. Yes, it is open daily (see website for times, cost, and reservations) https://www.morganwinery.com/
Feature : SLH- Santa Lucia Highlands
Gary’s Vineyard and Soberanes Vineyards
ROAR Wines and Lucia Vineyards tastings under the oaks
Our group met Gary Franscioni, Adam Franscioni, Nick Franscioni, and Mark Pisoni with their vineyard teams. Our group enjoyed a crash course on farming in SLH, a tractor ranch tour, and hands-on grape picking. Darcy won the best grape harvester award and received a large-format bottle of Lucia 2018 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir.
Gary’s Vineyard was built on a handshake from two lifelong friends, Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. They planted the 50acre Vineyard in 1997 in a “V” shape. The Vineyard has yielded some of the best fruit in the region. Today, the Vineyard is managed by the sons of Franscioni and Pisoni.
Pinot Noir: 50 acres
Elevation: 400 feet
Soberanes Vineyard is another partnership between the two Gary’s and their families. The vineyard is located south of Gary’s. It is planted in the direction of the true north and receives a different sun exposure from Gary’s Vineyard.
Pinot Noir=27 acres, Chardonnay=7, Syrah=3
Elevation: 300 feet
ROAR Wines
Gary and Rosella Franscioni started ROAR Wines with extensive knowledge about Pinot Noir and its capabilities. The wines are handcrafted. The first vintages were produced from fruit grown at Rosella’s Vineyard, located on the family ranch. Today’s wines are made from grapes sourced from Rosella’s Vineyards and their other vineyards. Gary and Rosella’s sons are also part of the business.
During our outdoor tasting, we tasted two Chardonnays and three Pinot Noir’s.
Our favorite was the 2019 Roar Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir, $70, ****1/2. It was aged in oak and concrete (16%)
The wines are allocated and are sold online through the website.
Visit: No
ROAR Wines
https://www.roarwines.com/
Lucia Vineyards
Lucia Wines by the Pisoni Family is focused on place and a sustainable environment.
In 2020, they received the coveted California Green Medal for Sustainable Winegrowing Leadership. Their minimal winemaking and low intervention mirror their commitment to the vineyards.
Wines Tasted
• 2020 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay, $50 *****
Blended with grapes from Pisoni and Soberanes Vineyards
Straw color. Aromas of white peach and red apples. Flavors of bright, tart lemons.
Dark Purple/Opaque color. Aromas of blackberry, raspberry, and rose petals. Velvety flavors of strawberry, stone fruit, and lavender with a medium finish.
Visit: No
Lucia Vineyards Wine https://luciavineyards.com/
We returned to our hotel and freshened up before departing for dinner.
Coastal Seafood Dinner at Pebble Beach’s MPCC Beach House. Our group was whisked away for dinner to Pebble Beach, where we were taken to a historic clubhouse and event venue located on Spanish Bay near Moss Beach. This quaint building is part of the Monterey Peninsula Country Club. The view of the bay was breathtaking, with waves crashing on rocks in the distance.
We loved a walk-around wine reception featuring wines from Morgan Winery, Clarice Wines, Landmark Vineyards, and Beau Marchais, an Adam Lee collaboration with the late, great French Vintner Philippe Cambie.
The wines, the company, the cuisine, and the views of the Spanish Bay were outstanding.
Day Three-Wednesday
After breakfast at our hotel, we boarded our bus for the one-hour trip to Santa Lucia Highlands.
Bubbles and Breakfast Burrito reception at Escolle Vineyard and Caraccioli Cellars.
Caraccioli Cellars is a family-run business. The vineyards were first planted in 2008. Escolle is primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Scott’s father, Gary, spearheaded the project and enticed his uncle and brother to become partners in the business. The late internationally renowned French winemaker Michel Salgues, the former winemaker at Roederer Estate, was the founding winemaker until his passing in 2017.
There, we enjoyed an outdoor sit-down tasting amongst rows of perfectly aligned grape vines of Caraccioli Cellars’ still and sparkling wines with 4th Generation owner and general manager Scott Caraccioli. He led us through a tasting of sparkling and still wines. This was the second year that their wines were produced from 100% estate-grown grapes.
Tasting at the vineyard: No, except for special events
Note: Caraccioli Cellars has a tasting room in the village of Carmel-bythe-Sea.
Visit their website for details: https://www.caracciolicellars.com/home/
McIntyre Vineyards- New Outdoor Tasting Pavilion
We were hosted by Steve McIntyre, GM Kristen McIntyre, and Winemaker Sabrine Rodems of Wrath Wines.
Topics: Sustainability, Soil and Water in the Santa Lucia Highlands.
Steve McIntyre is a second-generation farmer and founder of McIntyre Vineyards. He has planted and farmed over 20% of the AVA and vinified hundreds of wines. Steve has degrees in viticulture and enology. He and his wife Kim also own Monterey Pacific. This viticultural company farms over 11,000 acres in Santa Lucia Highlands, Arroyo Seco, San Barnabe, and Hames Valley in Monterey County.
Steve is a true encyclopedia and expert on the region. He led our group around the vineyards and brought us to a six-foot hole in between rows of grapevines. While this may confuse one as being a freshly dug grave, the purpose is to show the layers of soil types and rocks that lie beneath this vineyard.
Steve also showed us his newly acquired New Holland harvesting machine.
Wines Tasted
• 2021 McIntyre Rosé ****1/2, Made from 100% Old Vine Pinot Noir
• 2019 McIntyre Chardonnay ****1/2
• 2018 McIntyre Pinot Noir ****
• 2020 Wrath Pinot Noir ****
• 2021 Wrath Pinot Noir ****1/2
• 2016 McIntyre Pinot Noir ****
Tasting at the vineyard: No, except for special events
Note: McIntyre Family Wines has a tasting room in the village of Carmel-by-the-Sea.
Location: 169 Crossroads Blvd, Carmel-by-the-Sea, CA 93923
Visit their website for details: McIntyre Family Wines
https://www.mcintyrevineyards.com/
Hahn Estate
Hahn Estate was founded in 1980 in the coastal mountains of Monterey. Today, it owns four vineyards in Santa Lucia Highlands, with 650 acres planted, and two vineyards in Arroyo Secco, with 450 acres planted.
Swiss-born Nicky and Gabby Hahn first came to Santa Lucia Highlands in the late 1970s. Their first purchase was Smith and Hook Vineyards, which was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
In 1990, they shifted to cool-climate varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. That was when Nicky recognized that Santa Lucia Highlands was best suited for growing cool climate grapes. In 1991, he was one of the people responsible for getting the AVA filed and approved.
After learning about Hahn’s Falconry program, our group enjoyed a delicious outdoor catered lunch with Winemaker Paul Clifton and his talented team.
Hahn has a falconry program which controls birds around the vineyards.
Winemaker Paul Clifton discussed how the sun creates photosynthesis, a biochemical process that makes sugar that is transported throughout the vines. He also stated that the area winds generate stress on the vines. Clifton state, “We are a large winery that micro-ferments.”
Wines Tasted
• 2019 Hahn Estate Lone Oak Vineyards Pinot Noir ****
Pisoni Vineyard’s insectary, vineyard, and farm tour. Pisoni estate library tasting in their caves.
Gary Pisoni is highly respected as a visionary, passionate, non-official brand ambassador for Santa Lucia Highlands, and advocate for Pinot Noir. As patriarch and founder of Pisoni Vineyards, he has nurtured, encouraged, and cheered on his sons Mark and Jeff to take the business in a more sustainable, ever-improving direction.
If you visit their website’s family page, you will get a picture of who does what.
Gary Pisoni Maverick Mark Pisoni Farmer Jeff Pisoni Winemaker
Together, they integrate masterfully like they are composing a symphony. In their case, they are patiently crafting the next Sonata de Pinot Noir.
During our visit, Mark showed us how diverse the property was. Part of the land was hilly and desert-like, and other areas were wooded with green growth. This is sustainable grape growing on steroids. Farmer Mark is providing amazing-quality grapes to his brother Jeff, who turns out amazing wine with minimal intervention. Bravo!
Our group enjoyed a fantastic sit-down tasting in the Pisoni wine caves. To our surprise, Gary Pisoni greeted us and shared some history about his family.
Library Wines Tasted
•2009 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir ****
Dark purple color. cocoa, coffee, and dust.
•2010 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir **** Sour patch.
•2011 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir ****1/2
Dark-baked blueberry pie
•2012 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir ****1/2 Bright of the flight!
Visits to Vineyards: Members only
Please visit the website for details. https://www.pisonivineyards.com/
For more on the SLH region, visit the Santa Lucia Highlands Wine Artisans website: https://www.santaluciahighlands.com/
Final Thoughts:
Santa Lucia Highlands (SLH) is a unique AVA with notable, down-to-earth, passionate family vintners with dirt under their fingernails and wine-stained teeth. Try their wines, sip them slowly, and respect the hard-working people behind the wines.
Parting Shots
Our next issue will feature Venice!
The Venetian Republic has stood the test of time as an epicenter for world trade. Over the centuries, it has endured conflicts, the plague, numerous wars, invasions, and flooding. Farming was a necessary industry—traces of grape growing date back to pre-Roman times. Today, Venice is known for its lagoon and canals, which serve as the main highways for transportation.
Venetian cuisine is a vibrant tapestry of flavors centered around the bounty of the local waters. With fresh seafood, succulent duck, and the Venetian take on tapas, Cicchetti offers a diverse and exciting culinary journey.
Think small bites, sandwiches, seafood, meatballs, croquettes, or fritto misto—anything that one can enjoy “handheld” with a glass of wine or aperitif.
One of Venice’s best-kept secrets is its three distinct wine regions, each casting a unique shadow over the area. These regions, often overlooked by visitors, offer a fascinating glimpse into the city’s viticultural heritage. In Venice, just a few steps away from Santa Lucia Station, an ancient vineyard is being cultivated and preserved within the silent walls of a convent. On Mazzorbo, an island connected to Burano by a wooden bridge, lies Venissa, a working wine resort with a vineyard growing ancient Dorona di Venezia grapes and the Michelin-starred Osteria Contemporanea.
The region is trying to preserve its viticultural past while producing more than 10 million bottles of food-friendly Pinot Grigio.
