YOUR ATTITUDE-FREE PASSPORT TO GREAT WINE & DELICIOUS FOOD 2022/1 Mighty Mendoza! How Argentina’s Winemakers Rock the Wine World Bordeaux is Back! The old region pours new vintages
Editor’s Letter
Traveling to Argentina in February 2022 was another story. Things were back in full swing because most citizens were vaccinated. Wineries were declared essential business and remained open while the government shuttered other businesses. The pent-up demand created by Covid travel restrictions boosted wine tourism, with the residents opting to take a staycation and enjoy excellent wine and cuisine.
I traveled to Bordeaux in September 2021 when vintners were finally permitted to pour their new vintages at in-person events. The whole Bordeaux wine business pivots around tasting recent vintages and selling futures. Negociants had to skip in-person tastings for sixteen months, forced to ship samples ahead of mandatory zoom tastings with clients and wine critics around the globe. While the wine industry fared well, I found Bordeaux restaurants limped back cautiously.
Great winemakers must not only master professional winemaking techniques, but in Argentina, they must understand geology too! Mendoza is, by nature, an arid place. It would not be possible to grow excellent fruit without the water from the mighty Andes Themountains.coverphoto of this issue features a portrait of winemaker Sebastian Zuccardi. He is standing in front of a massive rock extracted when he was planting the vineyard. This is the roots of mighty Mendoza! This rock and many others traveled from the alluvial flows that began millions of years ago from the Andes.
Producing this issue, our largest ever has been a labor of love. To us, it is a celebration of our returning to the “new normal,” where the world is learning how to co-exist with COVID.
CDSante!
Photo of WCI Co-Founders Christopher J Davies and Darcy Davies in the cellar at Bodegas Salentein, Val de Uco. Photo by Fredericke Pon.
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WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL4 Vol. 1 2022 Wine Country International ® Magazine Christopher J. Davies, Co-Founder, Editor & Publisher Darcy R. Davies, Co-Founder & Design Director Wine Education & Travel Editor, Ron Kapon Editorial Assistant: Marisa Haag Lifestyle Editor, V.G. Walsh Director of Photography, Christopher J. Davies Contributing Editors: Simone FM Spinner, Elizabeth Woessner Blair Bowman, Michael Long and Larry Wilcox Advertising, Sponsorship: info@winecountrynetwork.com Natalia Cuervo, Advertising ads@winecountryinternational.comDirector: A publication of Wine Country Network, Inc. Christopher J. Davies, Chairman & CEO, Co-Founder Darcy Davies, President & Co-Founder Wine Country Network, Inc. 390 Interlocken Crescent, Suite 350, Broomfield, CO 80021 Tel. e-mail:www.winecountrynetwork.com303-665-0855info@winecountrynetwork.comAddresseditorialinquiriestocdavies@winecountrynetwork.comWineCountryInternationalOnline:www.winecountryinternational.comTwitter:@vinotasting Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/winecountryinternational/ Wine Country International Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs, or other works. All letters sent to Wine Country Network will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes. Contents © 2022 by Wine Country Network, Inc. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or part without the written permission of the publisher. All photography in this publication, unless otherwise noted is copyrighted by Christopher J. Davies, all rights www.daviesphotos.comreserved. Contents EDITORS LETTER Pages 3 Pages 10-13 Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires DESTINATIONSCOOKING THE BOOKS Pages 8-9 Book Riviews SPIRITED CHAT Page 6 2021 Canned Challenge Report
Vol. 1 2022 Page 129 SLH Wine Region PARTING SHOTS Pages 14-18 Cabernet Franc GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Pages 20-23 Cabernet Franc VINOTASTING: CABERNET
2021 “Best of Show” Winners:
BOS 1st Place Spindrift Beverage Co, Inc, Spindrift Spiked- Half & Half BOS 2nd Place Sagamore Spirit Sagamore Spirit Honey Paloma BOS 3rd Place Wise Men Distillery Wise Men Distillery Black Cherry HardSeltzer
2021 “Best of Show” Packaging and Design Winner: Two Chick Cocktails- Two Chicks 8 Can Display Pack 2022 Canned Challenge
The next competition will take place on October 22 and 23, 2022. For details and online entries visit: www.cannedchallenge.com full list of winners
Canned alcoholic drinks are convenient and enjoyable in various situations, including at home, on the beach, on the boat, on the golf course, or camping. With the COVID-19 pandemic impacting everyone, canned adult beverages are shaking up the beverage industry.
2021 Canned Challenge Competition- Report
SPIRITED CHAT WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL6 Vol. 1 2022
The 2nd Annual Canned Challenge took place on September 25 and 26, 2021 at the Origin Hotel in Westminster, Colorado. Our judges tasted and rated more than two hundred products from around the world.
For
The Canned Challenge is the world’s first professionally judged competition to define excellence in canned alcoholic drinks. The Canned Challenge Tasting Contest will be conducted double-blind by a prestigious panel of mixologists, bartenders, beverage professionals, sommeliers, buyers, and trade members. The Canned Challenge Packaging and Design Contest will be juried by a committee of art directors, designers, and retailers, focusing on critical elements that help a brand stand out from its competitors.
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The World Eats (Excellent*****)Here Amazing Food and Inspiring People who make it at New York’s Queens Night Market
By John Wang and Storm Garner The Experiment, LLC (ISBN: 978-61519-663-0 Queens is where LaGuardia Airport sits, where the 1964 New York World’s Fair took place, and where the Ed Koch 59th street bridge connects to Manhattan; many cultures of immigrants reside in the shadow of the Big Apple.
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The Queens Night Market takes place in Queens during the summer on Saturday evenings. The market features cuisine from 40 countries. The authors have compiled 88 recipes directly from the market’s vendor/ chefs. After interviewing, the chef/vendors on video, the authors (a married couple with expertise in law, business, media, videography, and the arts) recreated the dishes following and testing the recipes step-by-step, Julia Child-style. We love the beautiful layout of this book, featuring a mix of professional photographs, illustrations, personal antidotes, and tips from the vendors. The book is sectioned by continents. Order a copy from Amazon, and you will be drooling to make a trip to queens. This is the only place where you can find the cuisine from these many countries in one place.
9WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Emma’s Kitchen Recipes from a Mendoza Family Zuccardi Familia Zuccardi has created an excellent cookbook with a collection of their grandmothers’ recipes. The family patriarch loved to cook a lot of Italian-style dishes. The kitchen aromas are something her son and his children cannot forget. After several years of marriage, Emma’s husband decided to stop eating meat. This was a monumental decision for a resident of meat-heavy Mendoza. She adopted recipes to accommodate him. She learned how to utilize seasonal vegetables and fresh fruits. The book classifies dishes into these sections: • Savory dishes • Sweet dishes • Savory preserves • Sweet preserves The recipes, jaw-dropping food photography, and family documentation will make you appreciate the Zuccardi family’s love of life and family. Note: this book is available at their wineries in Mendoza.
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It is an eerily looking place in the upscale neighborhood of Recoleta. Its iron gates and entrance adjoin the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar - the glistening white church overlooking an outdoor square. Buenos Aires’ first cemetery was established in 1822. More than 6,400 statues, sarcophagi, coffins, and crypts house Argentina’s most celebrated sons and daughters. The most famous occupant is Eva “Evita” Perón, the former first lady. This is one of the most unusual cemeteries in the world. We highly recommend this as a must-visit in Buenos Aires. Admission is free.
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Photos by Darcy Davies
Recoleta Cemetery
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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL14 Vol. 1 2022
Grape Expectations Columnist
15WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Cabernet Franc The Unsung Hero of the Wine World
By Elizabeth Woessner,
Cabernet Franc is one of my all-time favorite grape varieties, and I believe it deserves to get more recognition from the wine-drinking public. Some of the world’s most-celebrated wines would not even exist without Cabernet Franc! While that may sound like a bold statement, it is, in fact, the truth. It is not widely known, but Cabernet Franc is the parent grape of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère. Can you imagine a world of wine without those grape varieties?
To wrap up your European Cabernet Franc adventure, head to northeastern Italy, where Caber-net Franc is sometimes called Bordo. In this part of Italy, you can find a single varietal wine in both Friuli-Venezia-Giulia and Veneto. Then, head to Tuscany to discover how Cab Franc softens harsh tannins while adding a touch of spice when blended with Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. If you have the time, take a quick excursion to Southern Hungary. There you will find the regions of Villány, Szekszárd, and Eger, where winemakers have embraced Cabernet Franc, and are now using it to produce rich, powerful, and long-lived blended and single varietal wines. Next on our global Cabernet Franc journey, we must travel to South America. The warmer temperatures in Colchagua Valley in Chile, the city of Mendoza in Argentina, and Uruguay bring forth darker fruit aromas that feature hints of dark chocolate and baking spice while maintaining their softer tannins and peppery goodness.
Cab Franc also plays a supporting, yet vital, role in producing the great red wines of Bordeaux, Italy’s Super Tuscans, and red blends of California’s Napa Valley. It softens the harsh tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon while adding herbal aromatics to the resulting wine. And if that weren’t already enough, the Cabernet Franc grape on its own produces complex wines worthy of accolades. The earliest records of Cabernet Franc can be found in 17th-century Bordeaux, where it was known as Bouchet and was first used to support its offspring Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It came into its own when it was transplanted to Bourgeuil, located in the Loire Valley of central France, and has now found a home in nearly every major wine region of the world. Single varietal Cabernet Francs are elegant, quaffable, food-friendly wines that deserve a place on every dinner table. This super flexible grape can thrive in diverse regions and climates. My ideal wine adventure would be a trip worldwide to discover Cabernet Franc’s varied and delicious manifestations. Starting in France, where it all began, I would visit the Loire Valley and the regions of Chinon and Bourgeuil, where the Cabernet Franc grape shines. You can enjoy a fruity, medium-bodied young Cabernet Franc wine, or you can sip on an age-worthy, fuller-bodied wine that has been kissed by oak. If you are lucky, you could then head down to Bordeaux and the famed Chateau Cheval Blanc, whose proprietary blend is made up of almost 60% Cabernet Franc, and then delight in the joys of an old glass of one of the most sought-after wines in the world.
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“Why do I love Cabernet Franc? Let me count the ways! Cabernet Franc has the natural acidity and tannin structure that make it the ideal grape for aging wineit’s WHY iconic wines like 1947 Cheval Blanc stand the test of time, and then some! I love the complexity and at the same time delicate nuances of aromatics and flavors - from pencil shavings, wet pavement, pink peppercorn, black peppercorn, tarragon, cooking herbs, baking spice, brambles, cassis, lin-gonberry jam, Amarena cherry, cherry tobacco, cigar, Lapsang Souchong tea (black tea that is smoked over pine wood), to roses and carnations and violets! I call Cabernet Franc ‘the ulti-mate Cinderella grape’ because she is unequivocally the belle of the Despiteball.”being its parent, people often refer to Cabernet Franc as Cabernet Sauvignon’s less celebrated baby brother. I think it’s time to change that thinking and instead bring Cab Franc out of the shadow of its famous offspring and directly into the limelight. Cabernet Franc’s in-credible versatility, along with its elegance, well-integrated tannins, and beautiful aromatics, should earn it a place among the great red wines of the world.
Heading home, I would need an entire month to discover all the regions of the United States that have taken a shine to this grape’s adaptability and versatility. This part of the journey takes us through a variety of climates in the U.S., from the hot and sunny California and cooler Washington and Oregon on the west coast, to New York State’s Finger Lakes and Long Island in the northeast, and then further down into Virginia in the south. Wherever it is grown, Cabernet Franc will always balance its red, fruit-forward juiciness with a peppery, herbal earthiness. As the “pièce de resistance” of any North American wine adventure, try the mesmerizing Ice Wines made from frostresistant Cabernet Franc in Canada and New York State. With its moderate alcohol, medium body, medium to high acids, and wellintegrated tannins, Cabernet Franc is a great wine to enjoy with a variety of foods. Its higher acidity allows it to play well with notoriously hard-to-pair tomato and vinegar-centric dishes. At the same time, its herbal and vegetal characteristics make it an excellent complement to gamey meats such as pheasant, lamb, wild duck, or venison. Herbal and spicy dishes are easily matched by the signature peppery aromas and herbaceous notes in the wine. And, of course, a Loire Valley goat cheese paired with a Cabernet Franc is a perfect example of the adage “what grows together, goes together.”
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Leah Jorgensen Jean, founder, owner and winemaker of Leah Jorgensen Cellars in Newberg, Oregon is a big proponent of Cabernet Franc. We asked her what she loves about this grape.
(Baked Spaghetti with Mushrooms in Parchment) (Makes 4 to 6 servings)
On a work surface, lay out one parchment square per person. Place one portion of pasta onto the center of each square. Moisten the edges of the parchment with water and fold up into a triangle shape, crimping all along the edges to make a seal. Gently lift and transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining squares.
1 cup vegetable stock
FourIngredients:tosix15-inch parchment-paper squares
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook for 2 minutes short of the timing for al dente on the package. While the pasta is cooking, in a large sauté pan over high heat, warm the olive oil and butter. Add the mushrooms and sauté until wilted, about 5 minutes. Push the mushrooms to the side of the pan, turn the heat to medium, add the shallots, and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes, seasoning with salt as you go. Stir the mushrooms into the shallots, add the wine, and cook until it is almost completely absorbed, about 3 minutes. Pour in the vegetable stock, turn the heat to high, bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low and sim¬mer until the cooking juices reduce slightly, about 5 minutes. Drain the undercooked pasta and stir it into the sauce, mix in the parsley, and then stir in the extra-virgin olive oil.
*Reprinted with permission from FRIULI FOOD AND WINE: Frasca Cooking from Northern Ita-ly’s Mountains, Vineyards, and Seaside.
Copyright © 2020 by Frasca Food and Wine, Inc. Photography copyright © 2020 by William Hereford. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Random House, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.
CONSPAGHETTIFUNGHI AL CARTOCCIO
Imagine a dish that arrives in a little parchment-wrapped package (known as a cartoccio, or cartouche) like a baked gift from the spaghetti gods. You open it up, and with the warm steam comes the scent of olive oil, parsley, white wine, and wild mushrooms. Bam! That’s this dish right here. It’s very simple to make and is also a great way to get children to eat fungi.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Bake until the parchments puff up (from the steam inside), about 5 minutes. Use a large flat spatula to transfer each parcel to a plate. Serve immediately, letting your dinner guests open their own cartoccio.
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2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound mixed fresh wild mushrooms, such as black trumpets or chanterelles, 2trimmedsmallshallots, minced Fine sea salt ½ cup dry white wine
1-pound dry spaghetti ¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
Bobby Stuckey, renowned Master Sommelier, restaurateur, and author notes that “Cabernet Franc came to Friuli with Napolean so it has been there a while and there are great representations.” Stuckey says the recipe for Spaghetti Con Funghi in his recent book, Friuli Food and Wine: Frasca Cooking from Northern Italy’s Mountains, Vineyards, and Seaside, would be an excellent pairing. Stucky’s recommendation is the beautiful Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc Collio DOC 2017 from Friuli-VeneziaGiulia.
From romantic cities to foodie havens and artistic epicenters, this itinerary enlivens all your senses. Embark in Lyon, France’s culinary capital, and enjoy an evening illumination cruise. Savor the beauty of legendary vineyards and imbibe in local vintages like Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône. You can even become an expert in all things culinary: go in search of the highly prized “Black Diamond” truffles; learn how to pair chocolate with wine; and discover how olives turn into the Mediterranean’s nectar, olive oil. Trace the steps of famous artists in Arles and Carriéres de Lumiéres before your return flight home.
19WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 2 2022 TRAVEL SHOWCASE
Castello Banfi Wine Resort
Situated on 320 hectares of fertile land in the heart of the Uco Valley, the architecture seems to emerge from the encircling geography, as it is inspired by the topography and exceptional natural resources of the Uco Valley, in Argentina’s Mendoza province.
https://www.casadeuco.com/en/wine-resort-en/
At the soul of our inviting common areas are the Wine Bar & Lounge, award-winning restaurant, game room, lush living room complete with wood-fire chimney, and outdoor dining spaces with open views of the mountains and vineyards. At the foundation of the resort, the underground wine cellar stores an impressive selection of the best wines in the region.
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Casa de Uco Vineyards & Wine Resort is a project conceived and created by the world-renowned architecture firm Alberto Tonconogy & Associates.
Casa de Uco Vineyards & Wine Resort
Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy
Mendoza, Argentina
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Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, Castello Banfi Il Borgo is ideal for enjoying the comfortable tranquility of the Tuscan countryside and helping to intensely discover a more authentic Tuscany.
Our family is passionately dedicated to the Pursuit of Excellence in making the prestigious wines of Montalcino as well as our hospitality offerings at Castello Banfi, the historic fortress that crowns our estate, an elegant setting for vacations, celebrations, special events or a day visit.
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Domaine De La Noblaie Chinon, 2018 Rouge Les Cheins\ Cabernet Franc, Chinon, France, $24.99, 93pts Ripe black plums and vanilla cocoa powder. Ripe plums, green peppers, and baking spice. Long finish with integrated tannins and acidity.
Tasting Recently Tasted: Cabernet Franc Wines
Tasting notes by Elizabeth Woessner, Grape Expectations Columnist
Creekside Cellars, 2017 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Grand Valley, $45.00,Colorado,85pts Red currants, cassis, and full blooming flowers. Ripe plums, pink peppercorns, and roasted red pepper.
Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards, 2017 Cabernet Franc, Santa Cruz Mountains, CA, $45.00, 85pts Dark black fruit, cinnamon, and pink peppercorn. Baked cherry, green pepper, and baking spices. Well balanced. .
The author joined Wine Country International Co-Founders Christopher and Darcy Davies for a tasting of 25 Cabernet Franc wines from around the world at their office in Broomfield, Colorado.
Brecon Estate, Paso Robles, 2019 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Paso Robles, CA, $80.00, 85pts Sour red currants and peppercorns. Juicy baked red fruit with vanilla and clove. Balanced. Chateau Niagara Winery, 2018 Cabernet Franc, Niagara, NY $29.00, 88pts Strawberry Jolly Rancher ®. Ripe cherry pie filling with a touch of pepper and cocoa powder.
Brash Higgins, 2020 Sommerville Vineyard FRNC Cabernet Franc, McLaren Vale, South $27.99,Australia,88pts Sour raspberry with floral notes. Hints of caramel, vanilla, and baked red fruit. Long finish with great acidity.
Leah $25.00,SouthernCabernetCellars,Jorgenson2020Franc,Oregon,85pts Aromas of bright cherry, blossom, and vanilla. Tastes of leather, smooth tobacco, and roasted pepper.
Peppercorns, black fruit, earth, and wet gravel. Juicy red fruit, milky, red pepper flakes with jalapeno. Great acidity, good food wine
Ripe plum, rose petal with ripe black currant. Dark fruit, tomato leaf, and chalk. Great tannin structure, made to pair well with food!
Jefferson Vineyards, 2017 Cabernet Franc, Monticello, VA, $46.95, 88pts Ripe cherries, strawberry, and black pepper. Vanilla, cloves, ripe plums, earth, and leather. Lengthy finish.
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Dr. Konstantin Frank, 2019 Cabernet Franc, Finger Lakes, NY, $24.99, 87pts Super bright red fruit, dark cherry, flower petals, and cassis. Well-balanced with a lingering finish.
Familia Traversa, 2019 Cabernet Franc, $13.99,Uruguay,80pts Earthy, green pepper with tomato leaf. Red plum, earth, and dry gravel. Long tannic finish. .
Jefferson Vineyards, 2019 Cabernet Franc, Monticello, VA, $39.95, 84pts Ripe strawberry, black pepper, candied purple plums, pink peppercorns, and mocha. Fruit forward with a savory finish.
Domaine Laroque, 2019 Cite
$12.99,France,Franc,CarcassonedesCabernetLanguedoc,90pts
Dreyfus Ashby/ IQUE, 2020 IQUE Cabernet Franc from Enrique Foster, $12.00,Argentina,Mendoza,93pts Super ripe dark plums with vanilla, and white chocolate. Chocolate, white plums, leather, and tobacco. HB Wine Merchants/ Cave Spring, 2019 Cave Spring Cabernet Franc, $20.00,Escarpment,NiagaraCanada,85pts
Permund Cellars, 2017 Cabernet Franc, $39.00,Virginia,80pts
Dark ruby red cherry, floral, rose petals. Tastes of dark, spicy fruit, with leather and peppercorns. Well-balanced tannins.
Spangler Vineyards, 2017 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon, $32.00, 85pts
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Leah $30.00,SouthernMae’sDeCellars,Jorgenson2019“BlancCabernetFranc”Vineyard,Oregon,85pts
Aromas of rose petals, jasmine, and lemon confit. Tastes of dried oregano, lime, cinnamon, and citrus. Permund Cellars, 2019 Cabernet Franc, $29.00,Virginia,85pts Red cherry, floral notes with rose petals. Tastes of tart, juicy, Bing cherries. Lengthy finish Philip Carter Winery, 2020 Cabernet Franc, Fauquier County, $34.00,Virginia,85pts
Deep ruby color. Sweet vanilla, cherries, currants, and rose petals. Touch of cinnamon, baking spice, and offset ripe cherry pie fruit. Well balanced with a long finish. Russiz Superiore, 2017 Cabernet Franc Collio Gorizano, FriuliVenezia Giulia, Italy, $31.99, 85pts Dark ruby red color. Strawberry, intense cherry, and rose petals. Juicy, bright red cherries, spice with dry oregano. Long finish.
Pollak Vineyards, 2017 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Monticello, $75.00,VA, 85pts
Inky dark purple. Dark chocolate, leather, and mocha spice. Ripe dark berries, oak, chocolate with a touch of leather
Leah $50.00,SouthernCabernetRogueCellars,Jorgenson2016ClosValleyReserveFranc,Oregon,95pts
Dark ruby color. Aromas of ripe cherry, raspberry, blossom, green pepper with a hint of bitterness. Super ripe fruit, touch of black pepper, and cocoa powder
Aromas of rose petals, black cherry, and raspberry. Tastes of black currant, baking spice, black pepper, and baked cherry. Long finish with well-integrated tannins. Editor’s Choice.
Dark garnet color. Bright red fruit, red cherries, and underripe plum. Juicy berries, green pep-per, earthy. Well integrated tannins.
Elizabeth Woessner- Grape Expectations
Columnist Elizabeth Woessner is a sommelier, wine writer, educator, and judge who has taught wine and food pairings at Cook Street School of Culinary Arts and conducted wine seminars at the Denver Art Museum. She has been active in the Denver food and beverage scene for over 15 years. In addition to running her own marketing company, focused on helping independent restaurants succeed, Elizabeth hosted a radio show on the Denver beverage and culinary world. She is completing her level three WSET certification in wine. In 2022, she will be traveling throughout the wine regions of Europe to produce travel guides for the world’s wine adventurers.
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Spangler Vineyards, 2018 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon, $32.00, 88pts
Dark ruby color. Baked red plums, vanilla, and black cherry with blossoms. Tastes of dark red fruit, baking spice, dark chocolate. Mouthwatering tannins. Vintage Wine Estates/ Cosentino Winery, 2019 Cosentino THE Franc, Lodi, CA, $22.00, 90pts Bold maroon hues. Bright ripe strawberries, juicy fruit, vanilla, hint of pepper. Ripe plums, chocolate, mocha, and a touch of leather. Long finish. Suhru Wines, 2019 Cabernet Franc, North Fork of Long Island, $30.00,NY,87pts
WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL24 Vol. 1 2022 Feature : Bordeaux is back!
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I long dreamt about returning to Bordeaux for Harvest 2021 Story and photos by Christopher J. Davies.
In March 2020, President Trump imposed COVID travel bans on international travel to and from Asia and Europe. The bans had painstakingly clipped our wings for one and a half years, forcing many leading international airlines to go bust or to reorganize and shrink operations drastically. It was thought the bans would be lifted in weeks or possibly a month. The U.S. bans stayed in place until September, while European countries lifted their bans with special restrictions during the summer of 2021. In August 2021, I received an email from the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux, a consortium of 131 Grand Crusdesignated fine wine producers announcing their “Les Weekend des Grand Crus” tastings. This would be the first opportunity to taste the chateau’s latest wine releases in a year and a half. While this tasting would be open to consumers, I saw this as an excellent opportunity to taste wines from Bordeaux’s most coveted chateaus.
Darcy and I booked our flights from Denver through Icelandair, the low-cost official airline of Iceland. We snagged roundtrip Saga level (business) from Denver to Reykjavik (7h 25m), then connecting to Paris (3h 25m). This would be our first-time flying Icelandair. Just three nights before our scheduled departure, Darcy had an unexpected fall walking our beagle near our townhouse. She broke her leg and ankle. Unfortunately, her doctors forbid her from taking the trip. Sadly, I embarked on my first international flight in eighteen months, solo, with luggage, cameras, and a tripod in tow. Darcy was displeased that she was not attending this time, but she was happy that we would be reporting on Bordeaux after the lengthy COVID hiatus. Before I departed, I registered on the French government website and applied for a French EU COVID Pass. I uploaded my COVID vaccine records, flight info, and passport PDFs. I received my French COVID pass in less than one hour via email. A pass with a barcode was required to enter public transportation, public buildings, and restaurants.
The flights on Icelandair were comfortable, but not your typical business class. Still, I was happy to be back in the air. When my flight arrived at Reykjavik airport, I was shuffled to an extremely crowded customs clearance area. There were many zig-zagged mazes of roped lines, with minimal airline staff to help speed along the immigration process. I wondered why a small country needed to add this extra layer of stress for passengers just traveling en route to their intended final destination.
Photo: Cyclists ride through a sun shower in Pomerol.
Since this was right during the 2021 harvest season, I built a plan to ensure we visited producers in Saint-Émilion, Margaux AOC, and Pomerol to capture some great harvest photos. I reached out to my contacts in Bordeaux and U.S. importers so that we could arrange visits to some of their suppliers. Luckily, several producers were happy to welcome back press members after the lengthy COVID lockdowns.
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About three and half hours after my flight departed from Reykjavik, I arrived in Paris on a Monday afternoon, hungry! The taxi ride from the airport took about 50 minutes in stop-and-go traffic. I was excited that my taxi drove past the L’Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile monument, which was wrapped in 25,000 square meters of recyclable polypropylene fabric in silvery blue, and with 3,000 meters of red rope. This public art exhibit was part of a 16-day public exhibit. The project was realized in partnership with the Centre des Monuments Nationaux and coordination with the City of Paris. It also received the support of the Centre Pompidou.
In 1961, three years after they met in Paris, Christo and Jeanne-Claude began creating works of art in public spaces. One of their projects was to wrap a public building. When he arrived in Paris, Christo rented a small room near the Arc de Triomphe and had been attracted by the monument ever since. In 1962, he made a photo montage of the Arc de Triomphe wrapped, seen from the Avenue Foch, and, in 1988, a collage. 60 years later, the project was finally concretized. At first glance, I thought I spotted three painters on top of the monument. They were installing the final touches of the wrapping. This astounding exhibit was part of the couple’s 60-year dream. On May 31, Christo passed away in New York City. Per his wishes, Christo and Jeanne-Claude’s work in progress L’Arc de Triomphe, “Wrapped “was completed by his team.
I checked into the four-star Hotel Victoire et Germain, located in the Saint-Germaindes-Prés area, and then went on a stroll through the neighborhood to look for food. Since it was 3:00 pm, I was in the mood for a snack. It was a sunny and comfortable afternoon, with many cafes and restaurants with open seats on their patios close by. I found a typical cafe and sat at a small table looking off the patio onto the busy street. A server asked me for my EU COVID pass and scanned my bar code with a handheld device. My weapon of choice was a foie gras platter with a glass of Provence Rosé. It was an authentic taste of Paris! A place to Stay Paris Boutique hotel, located on a quiet side street. Modern room. Close to most attractions. 4 Stars! Hotel Victoire et Germain 9, rue Grégoire de Tours 75006 Paris France Tel: +33145490326 https://www.victoireetgermainhotel.com/en/
NosMorningEntrees/Starters
17E
15E •Eggplant
TheBordeauxcityof Bordeaux is ground zero for the world’s most famous wine region. It is a vibrant port city located on the banks of the Garonne River in the southwestern area of France. It is modern, loaded with deep history, and known for its architectural and cultural heritage with more than 350 historical monuments. Bordeaux is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A plate of Iberian Como (ham)
A sampling of the menu items:
15E •Braised
Phone:
Tomato Gazpacho
Plats/Main Courses Beef Tartar
13E
31 22 https://www.villasfoch.fr/fr50
•Cheesecake
10E
Crème Brulee Red Fruit Tiramisu
Villas Foch I was excited to call Villas Foch Bordeaux home for my first two nights!
Renowned pastry chefs create a selection of specially curated BOCO dishes. Notably, the hotel does not have a typical restaurant. Instead, they offer a unique room service menu that a nearby restaurant manages.
Italian Beef Tartar 26E
The hotel is named after Marshal Ferdinand Foch, France’s Supreme Allied Commander in World War I. It is located on the very street in Bordeaux that bears his name. The hotel and its rooms showcase an old black-and-white portrait of the marshal with a red circle superimposed over his right eye. In his day, Marshall Foch was so victorious that he was showered with honors after the war and buried near Napoleon in the Invalides.
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Desserts
Red Tuna (according to availability) 28E
I booked a high-speed train reservation from Paris to Bordeaux St-Jean on Trainline.com. The travel time was two hours and four minutes. The cost for a Club Dou seat was 150 euros. When I arrived at Paris Montparnasse Station, a security team was checking passengers’ French COVID passes before allowing them to enter the main hall. Once my pass was checked, a man banded my wrist.
25E
The hotel is located near the city center, trams, the famous Place des Quinconces monument, and the Garonne River. This five-star, 20-room luxury hotel is in a beautifully restored stone mansion on a tree-lined street. The rooms are well appointed with modern art and fine details like hand-cut moldings, cornices, and luxury French bedding.
By
Plats/ Main Courses by Jean-Michel Lorain with Cherry Tomatoes and Parmesan Regis Macron Beef Parmentier Duo, Green Lentils Dark Chocolate Valrhona by Frederic Bau with Fruit Coulis of the moment by Vincent Fernoit
•Salmon
Desserts 9E •Mi-cuit
Half Cooked Whole Duck Foie Gras
The Ferdinand is the hotel’s signature first-floor bar that offers creative cocktails, wines, cognacs, and a snacky menu. During my stay, my stomach was sensitive to rich French dishes. My bartender made a call to a local Asian restaurant and ordered me a bowl of soothing miso broth. The hotel manager paid for the soup and added the cost to my bill.
Bordeaux first hosted the VinExpo Trade exhibition in 1981, with over 500 exhibitors and 11,000 trade visitors from around the globe. The VinExpo show has been the leading wine show in the world. The VinExposium company has recently created off-shoot exhibitions in New York, Paris, and Asia. Alaïs Perret, Press Officer at the Bordeaux Tourism Office, was very kind to provide support and recommendations during my visit to the city. She offered rooms at two of Bordeaux’s newest luxury properties.
15E
The Villa Foch offers a premium experience with amazing, friendly service. Its intimate scale makes every guest feel like royalty. I cannot wait to go back! Foch $254 USD, plus 25 Cr du Maréchal Foch, 33000 Bordeaux, France +33 5 64
StartersAfternoon/EveningbyVincent Fernoit by Boco
12E
Villas
Chocolate Cake
Photos above of my room at Villas Foch.
*****
Tomatoes with Burrata and arugula pesto
The current owners, Christophe San José and his daughter Anaïs, “fell in love with this place full of soul and history.” They have painstakingly restored things to their original charm, added eclectic accents, and incorporated their signature touches. Rooms are upscale with stone walls and parquet floors. The furniture has been designed by top French designers. The stone courtyard has been planted with several French grape varietals. This five-star hotel has twenty-nine rooms, loaded with all the modern upgrades, technology, WIFI, Italian showers, jacuzzi tubs, and air conditioning (something not always found in humid, balmy Bordeaux). The modern bathrooms are stocked with Hermès brand welcome products, and nothing has been left out to ensure that guests are comfortable and happy. My room was exquisite, on a top floor with a private terrace and outdoor bathtub. The terrace had an exceptional view of Bordeaux rooftops and cathedrals in the distance. Many of the old buildings were reminiscent of buildings in New Orleans.
The Boutique Hotel is in the western part of downtown in a bustling, active neighborhood. The hotel itself is housed in a finely restored mansion and is wine-focused, with rooms named after famous chateaus. The historic mansion is filled with centuries of rich history. It was here that Count Pierre-Denis de Peyronnet was born, a famous notable from Bordeaux who was a minister under Louis XVIII and then Charles X. The opposition seized the property during the French revolution. After the war, kings returned, and the Peyronnet mansion became a favorite hangout of France’s top literary giants, including Victor Hugo and Alphonse de Lamartine.
Feature : Bordeaux is back!
Boutique
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The Boutique Hotel Bordeaux Center Rooms from 336 E per night. 3 Rue LAFAURIE de MONBADON 33000 Bordeaux France Tel. +33(0)5 56 48 80 40 https://en.hotelbordeauxcentre.com/contact@lebhb.com
Photos above taken at The Boutique Hotel Bordeaux Center , (R) The Boutique Hotel Bordeaux Center.
The Hotel Bordeaux Center
A public underground parking lot was located one block away. Overnight parking costs 20E. Bars, restaurants, and a Carrefour grocery store were just blocks away.
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WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL30 Vol. 1 2022 Touring ExceptStoryVineyardsChateausBordeauxandandphotosbyChristopherJDaviesphotoaboveprovidedbyChateauMargaux.. Feature : Bordeaux is back!
31WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Chateau Margaux
Several weeks previously, I reserved an automatic electric car through SIXT rental car in Bordeaux. When I arrived at BordeauxSaint-Jean station, I found the car rental agencies on the station’s lower level. The SIXT rental car office had one customer inside, and the masked agent told me that I could not enter until her customer was done completing her paperwork.
Once situated in the Bordeaux city center, I started to plan my excursions to wine country. My first stop would be the eponymous Chateau Margaux. I had a small connection to the estate from when I was involved in a unique wine project on Long Island in 1999, where I did marketing consulting for Raphael winery on the North Fork. Mr. Paul Pontallier, Managing Director of Chateau Margaux, consulted on the vineyard plantings at Raphael. We communicated several times via email. Mr. Pontallier was one of the most respected vignerons in Bordeaux; sadly, he passed away in 2016. He is sorely missed by the team at Chateau Margaux and the wine industry as a whole.
A few minutes later, she told me she had a BMW Z4 M40i automatic convertible. I looked out the door and observed five customers waiting. I told the agent, “I’ll take it.” The agent printed the contract and asked for my credit card. She told me she needed to charge a $3,000 deposit to my card. I told her that was excessive for a three-day rental. She offered to charge only $600 for the deposit, to which I answered, “that is better.” She gave me the keys and contract, with the parking spot number and instructions on how to get to the adjacent parking garage. When I located the car at the top of the garage, I was elated to see that the Z4’s trunk was large enough the fit my suitcase, camera bag, and tripod. Leaving Bordeaux central was challenging. My iPhone’s navigation took me around the city several times until I got frustrated and switched to the BMW’s navigation system. The directions appeared on the digital screen, and the navigation system also projected turning directions onto the inside of the driver’s side Margauxwindshield.should generally take 35 minutes; my trip was 1 hour and 15 minutes. The BMW suspension was firm and tight. An intern at Chateau Margaux kept texting me for updates on my ETA. I was driving on the highway and could not reply. When I arrived in the commune of Margaux, it was noticeably small. GPS took me through tiny country roads and past the historic church of Margaux, set amongst the vineyards. When I arrived at the gate, an older man waived me into the dirt parking lot. I parked the roadster, grabbed my gear, and hurried to the reception area. I was one hour late and quite embarrassed.
Twenty minutes later, the customer exited the rental office, and the agent motioned me inside. When I presented my paperwork, the agent asked if I had brought my charging cables. I answered, “of course not.” The agent explained that she would need to charge me an additional 250 euros for the cable rental. That seemed excessive, so I asked if she could rent me an automatic petrol-powered vehicle instead. The agent said that she would check her inventory.
Johana told me she would give me a tour of the property before tasting the wines.
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After ten years of making numerous requests, the media director finally granted me a visit. This was my first ever visit to Chateau Margaux. The chateau is a Premier Grand Cru Classé Bordeaux and one of the world’s most famous wine producers. Visits to the estate are by appointment only. This visit was bittersweet as it has long been on my bucket list. I was concerned that my tardiness might have insulted my host.
Background: Chateau Margaux has a storied history in the wine world. The grapes were planted at Margaux as early as the 12th century. It is in the 16th century, however, when the Lestonnac family took over the estate. That is when Château Margaux took its actual shape and started its wine success story.
Chateau Margaux
Photos: Chateau Margaux Vineyard Manager Julien Cazenave and his beloved dog Otxo Far right, the Chateau’s Cooper hand assembling a wine barrel.
Johana Loubet, External Relations Manager, met me at reception. “Bonjour!” she proclaimed. I apologized for being so late. She said not to worry; it is typical of Bordeaux traffic conditions lately.
Feature : Bordeaux is back!
During the last ten years, a significant number of chateaus in Bordeaux have been sold for record numbers. Many of the recent buyers have been wealthy wine fans from Asia. Based on Chateau Margaux’s Premier Grand Cru Classé Bordeaux status, Forbes estimates that the estate could reap more than one billion dollars today. The tour of the estate
Margaux
Corinne’s children followed in her footsteps. Her daughter, Alexandra, joined the company in 2012 and her son, Alexis, joined in 2020, both gaining experiences to continue the family legacy.
The weather was starting to turn, so Johana suggested we do a quick tour outside. We viewed the outdoor crush pad as Sauvignon Blanc was being sorted. We strolled to the gates of the owner’s massive mansion, often referred to as a neoclassical manor house known as the “Versailles du Medoc.” I observed workers tending to the gardens and lawns when I looked through the gates. The wine estate consists of a mix of centuries-old stone buildings and newer buildings that have been added in the past 30 years.
Chateau
Johana led me through some doors into a woodshop area where a man was hand-building oak barrels. She explained that Chateau Margaux was one of the only wine estates that still employed a Shecooper.guided me through another door to an outdoor alley where we met a thirty-something gentleman with his dog. This was the vineyard manager, Julien Cazenave, and his dog, Otxo (a Basque name). I greeted Julien and wished him a “great harvest.”
In Bordeaux speak, Chateau Margaux is located on the “Left Bank” of the mighty Gironde River, on the same side as Lafite, Chateau Clark, and Mouton Rothschild. The red wines from the “Left Bank” are mainly Cabernet Sauvignon-based, with a small percentage of Merlot blended in. The estate has benefited from 500 years of experience gained by its successive owners. The current owners have owned Chateau Margaux since 1977, when André Mentzelopoulos, after reading an article in the Financial Times, turned to his young daughter, Corinne, and said, “We will buy and save this historic estate and legendary wine.” Three years later, when André passed away, his daughter took over the reins. Over the past twenty years, Corinne has implemented many improvements to the estate and vineyards, including a biodynamic initiative, an in-house agricultural research department, and anti-fraud security measures to ensure that customers can verify the authenticity of their bottles. Since the 1989 vintage, bottles of the three wines produced by the estate are laser code etched. They have also used secured capsules since the 2005 vintage and recently integrated a security system allowing anyone with a bottle labeled on or after March 7th, 2011, to guarantee its authenticity. The proof tag, or bubble tag, the security system is now effective on each bottle and is activated as soon as the wine leaves the cellars.
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Johana said that it was time to taste some wines! She brought me to a modern, private tasting room that resembled an executive board room. It had a wine glass window that looked out to the vineyards.
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1)
Deep ruby red, blueberries with elegant tannins and rich cocoa fragrances. Red currant and outstanding balance! Medium finish. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot & 2% Cabernet
35WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Chateau Margaux Wines Tasted
I did not taste Chateau Margaux’s white wine, a highly rated Sauvignon Blanc, I witnessed baskets of Sauvignon Blanc grapes being processed during my visit. After concluding my tasting, I bid farewell to Johana. I walked around the estate and came across a perfect row of vines with beautiful clusters of grapes. It was evident that the team meticulously maintained the vineyards.
This is a recently opened restaurant at The Château Marquis de Terme, Grand Cru Classé in 1855 from Margaux. The restaurant is run by Chef Grégory Coutanceau, a seasoned chef who loves wine and terroir. The restaurant has two levels and overlooks lush vineyards. When I arrived, the restaurant was almost fully booked. The manager found me a lovely table on the second floor. I ordered the Meagre (28E), a roast white fish with mussels, potatoes, and curried cream sauce. Strawberries with lemony curd cream sauce, Medoc honey tile, and coriander sorbet 13E
AU Marquis De Terme Marquis de Terme, 3 Rte de Rauzan, 33460 Margaux
05 marquis/?lang=enhttps://chateau-marquis-de-terme.com/restaurant-at-the-57082533
Aerial photo of the estate supplied by Chateau Margaux.
#2) 2006 Grand Cru Classe ***** $700 USD
Wines Tasted Glass price
•
Recommendation by Johana Loubet, Chateau Margaux
AU Marquis De Terme Excellent! Highly Recommended! By Gregory Coutanceau
Lunch in Margaux
•
•
The food and wine were outstanding. The servers were terrific!
Photos of server and food on right taken at Au Marquis de Terme, Margaux
Domaine Belle White AOC Cruzes Hermitage 2018 12E Chateau Marquis de Terme, AOC Bordeaux 2016 18E Chateau Climens Sauternes 1er Cru Barsac 2009 25E
# 2010 Pavilion Rouge****1/2 $320 USD
WhileFranc
The second wine from Chateau Margaux is a beauty. Dark opaque. Chalk, stone with blueberry. Juicy dark berries with medium finish.
I highly recommend this restaurant because it ticks off all my boxes!
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Harvest 2021
Saint-Émilion
Story and photos by Christopher J Davies One of my favorite wine towns in France is the medieval city of SaintÉmilion. The village is a protected UNESCO World Heritage site. It has numerous Roman ruins and is most famous for its limestone. The cultural landscape of Saint- Émilion, including its most famous church, was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1999. Saint-Émilion and the adjacent region of Pomerol are on the Right Bank. An average of 2.4 million cases of wine is produced each year. Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the dominant grapes.
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The property also has Le Relais Franc Mayne with five elegant bedrooms, including a cabin “tree house” perched on one of the estate’s cedar trees overlooking the vineyards. Depending on the time and the season, the terrace and billiard room can be enjoyed, as well as the swimming pool for a refreshing dip.
2018 Château Franc Mayne ****1/2 90 % Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple. Stone fruit, white flowers, spice, and dark fruits.
Photos at Chateau Franc Mayne (top) Merlot vineyard, (L) Couple wine tasting, ancient cement cross in vineyards, barrel cellar and exhibition.
Château Franc Mayne
SAINT ÉMILION GRAND CRU
Surface Area: 7 hectares (17 acres) Planted with vines=6 Production: 24,000 bottles (1st wine) 5,000 bottles (2nd wine) Wines Tasted: 2004 Château Franc Mayne ****1/2 90 % Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Brown/red color. Stone, clay, fruit with spiciness, and dry fruits. Notes: Vines are 40 years or older.
Château Franc Mayne
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Nestled against the “Côtes de Francs,” the slope from which it gets its name, the Château Franc Mayne vineyard is made up of a single block of vines, deeply rooted in its sloping terroir and on the prestigious limestone plateau of Saint-Émilion, one kilometer from the village.
The estate has two hectares (5 acres) of historic limestone cellars where tours experience a son et lumière show created by the scenographer Eric Le Collen.
2011 Château Franc Mayne ***** 90 % Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Dark ruby, bright cherry, and blackberry fruit. Elegant, vibrant fruit with an abundant finish. Notes: Vines are 30 years or older.
Château Franc Mayne 14 LA GOMERIE– RD 243 –33330 SAINT-EMILION +33 (0)5 57 24 62 https://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/en/61
Château de Ferrand
• Chocolat Fondant with Crème My lunch was amazing, and I enjoyed a spectacular afternoon meeting Gonzague and experiencing all that Château de Ferrand has to offer.
de Ferrand SAINT HIPPOLYTE 33330 SAINT EMILION 33 (0)5 57 74 47 https://www.chateaudeferrand.com/en11/
SURFACE AREA 42 hectares (104 acres) GRAPE COMPOSITION Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 29%, and Cabernet Sauvignon 1% Château
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Grand Cru Classé Château de Ferrand is one of the highest vineyards in Saint-Émilion at 100 meters above sea level. The estate was built in 1702 by a Bordeaux squire who was in the favor of the court of Louis XIV. The estate remained in his family’s ownership for three hundred years until 1978, when Baron Bich, a visionary industrialist, and creator of the Bic ballpoint pens, acquired the estate. The company is now run by Baron Bich’s daughter, Pauline Bich ChandonMoët, assisted by her husband, Philippe Chandon-Moët. The current owners have implemented numerous enhancements to the estate by replanting vineyards, modernizing winemaking, adding improvements, and expanding the buildings.
Wines Tasted: Château de Ferrand 2016 ****1/2 Intense Purple/Garnet. Luscious stone fruit and spicy berries. 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Château de Ferrand 2017 ****1/2 Deep red/Garnet. Lighter, more aromatic. Luscious stone, white flowers, and blackberries. Ripe fruit, smooth, voluptuous finish. 86% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Château de Ferrand 2018 **** Deep Garnet. Chalk and clay, stone fruit, and white flowers. Lighter, more aromatic. Slightly tart fruit, good balance, but young. 73% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc.
• Monk Fish with Lentils and Basil Emulsion
Today, Château de Ferrand is a world-class winery with a spectacular collection of art, fine wine, and culinary delights. For groups of six or more, they offer Private Table Culinary Experiences for Lunch or Dinner by Chef Marilyn Madray. The food is made from local and seasonal products and the experience is priced at 135 to 190 Euros plus wine costs. The estate also offers an exclusive “Dream Nights” accommodation with three beautifully designed guest rooms (from 320 Euros incl. taxes per night).
During my visit, I had the pleasure of meeting the owners of the wine estate. Pauline and Phillipe are hands-on owners passionate about fine wine and art. The front of the winery entrance has a five-foot-long blue BIC pen cap with a chewed top. Their Director General, Gonzague de Lambert, invited me to join him to taste the estate’s wines.
Lunch • Pumpkin Bisque with Petite Mushrooms, Foie Gras, CreamandFoam
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Wines Tasted
Château La Tour Figeac
Grand Cru Classé
Château La Tour Figeac grape plantings consist of Merlot (65%) and Cabernet Franc (35%). The average age of the vines is 35 years. The owners are planning to replant the Merlot vineyards with more Cabernet Franc. The soil consists of gravel-and-sand-clay terroir, producing elegant and concentrated wines. Otto M Rettenmaier went to Château La Tour Figeac in 1994 to restructure management. He became mesmerized by the estate’s charm, saw its vast potential, and decided to stay. He incorporated several improvements to the cellar and vineyards. Recent efforts have begun to adopt biodynamic techniques. During my visit, I was impressed with the roundness and finesse of Château La Tour Figeac wines. The estate’s focus seems to be totally on maintaining the quality of its grapes and less focused on optics.
Château La Tour Figeac 2016 ****1/2 Dark opaque. Dark tannins, stone fruit, dark cheery. Château La Tour Figeac Cove Lucie 2018 ****
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A special edition rarely made wine, from grapes in the estate’s oldest vineyards dating back to 1945. 80 Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Dark blackberries, Jamy. Needs to lay down. Château La Tour Figeac 2018 ****1/2 Dark opaque. Dark tannins, stone fruit, white flowers. Long finish. An elegant, feminine wine.
The estate is situated in the Northwest area of Saint-Émilion, near the gateway to the town by the highway. The site is best known for producing fine wine since Roman times. Château La Tour Figeac was separated from Château Figeac in 1879. Château La Tour Figeac has been owned by the family of its current owners, Lore and Otto Rettenmaier, since 1973. The 14.6 hectares (36 acres) of vines belonging to Château La Tour Figeac are located on the famous “Graves de Saint-Émilion” between Château Cheval Blanc in the East, Château Figeac in the south, and the iconic Pomerol appellation to the west.
Château La Tour Figeac 2019 ****1/2 Opaque/ Red. Dark cherries, violets, eucalyptus, menthol, mint. Charming and complex. Good lengthy finish with great tannins. Consumers may order wines online from Millesima: https://www.millesima-usa.com
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45WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Photo above: Owner Otto M. Rettenmaier GRAPE COMPOSITION 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc SOILS Gravel and ancient sands over a deep layer of clay SURFACE AREA 14.6 hectares (36 acres) Château La Tour Figeac 1 LIEU DIT LA TOUR FIGEAC 33330 SAINT EMILION +33 https://latourfigeac.fr/en/la-tour-figeac/557517762 Château La Tour Figeac
MignonEntrée Dordogne Valley Raised Veal. Porcini Sauce and Seasonal Truffles. Scalloped Potatoes au Gratin and Organic Vegetable Millefeuilles.
Feature : Bordeaux is back!
PassionUGCB Dinner Château La Tour Figeac
Paired with Chateau Talbot 2006 Saint Julien, a dark ruby wine with cassis fruit on the nose. Cheese Assortment on a slate with Cherry Jam Paired with Château La Tour Figeac Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé 2005- Deep, dark, opaque ruby-red color. Juicy black-cherry aromas with delicate cedar notes. Chateau Kirwan 2000 Margaux – Dark, translucent ruby. Elegant plum and tobacco notes. Citrus Trilogy It was great to be back in Bordeaux for the first time in two years. The city continues to experience a boom of construction and there are many cranes in the sky, with new condos, apartments, and hotels popping up around town. An increasing number of Parisians are investing in Bordeaux real estate due to a high-speed train that can take passengers from Paris to Bordeaux in a little over two hours. Parisians now have quick access to Bordeaux’s world-class wines and beaches. Like most of the world, Bordeaux seemed to be seriously wounded by the many side effects of the pandemic. Restaurants are getting back on their feet, causing staffing issues to limit hours and capacity. I strolled into several bistros salivating for a delicious lunch, only to be told that the restaurant could not take any more customers.
Appetizers
The Union des Grand Crus Bordeaux held a series of wine dinners during the Bordeaux Harvest Weekend. I was happy to reserve this dinner at Château La Tour Figeac. The UGCB did not give many details on its website, but I was delighted to learn that this dinner would be multi-course, multiwinery, and paired with white, red, and Sauternes wines.
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Paired with Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan Blanc (Grand Cru Classé de Graves) 2017- an amazing “still” sauternes, dry white. Château Olivier Pessac-Léognan Rouge (Grand Cru Classé de Graves) 2009-Deep, dark ruby color. Great tannins and acidity.
• Sable with Parmesan and Pata Negra Ham • Basin Oysters • Oxtail Terrine with Foie Gras
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Like most of the world, Bordeaux seemed to be seriously wounded by the many side effects of the pandemic. Restaurants are getting back on their feet, causing staffing issues to limit hours and capacity. I strolled into several bistros salivating for a delicious lunch, only to be told that the restaurant could not take any more customers.
The tasting featured live music with local chefs creating food samplings (for a fee). There were several optional master classes for studious wine aficionados. Hangar 14 had a wonderful outdoor deck overlooking the Garonne.
UGCB DegustationLa Tasting at Hangar 14
Producers seemed excited to be pouring their wines again after a hiatus of over one and a half years!
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It was great to be back in Bordeaux for the first time in two years. The city continues to experience a boom of construction and there are many cranes in the sky, with new condos, apartments, and hotels popping up around town. An increasing number of Parisians are investing in Bordeaux real estate due to a high-speed train that can take passengers from Paris to Bordeaux in a little over two hours. Parisians now have quick access to Bordeaux’s world-class wines and beaches.
The UGCB tasting was one of the reasons that I decided to make the journey to Bordeaux. It did not disappoint. More than one hundred Gran Crus were participating.
The venue was Hangar 14, an excellent two-floor event center located adjacent to the Garonne River.
Saturday, September 18, 2021, 10am to 5pm
For information about future tasting and events, visit: https://www.ugcb.net/en/home
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51WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Bordeaux Le Bar à 3BystillwineMarinearcadesaGobineau,BordeauxgroundLewasratedInterprofessionalIBordeauxDowntownBordeaux,VinBordeauxhasmanywinebarslocatedthroughoutthecity.researchedonlineandwassurprisedtolearnthattheCouncilofBordeauxWinesoperatedthehighest-winebar.Ireachedouttotheassociation’sPRdepartmentandmetbyMarineMartin,whooversawinternationalpress.BaràVinBordeauxislocatedontheMaisonduVindeBordeauxfloor,theheadquartersoftheInterprofessionalCouncilofWines.This18th-centurybuilding,knownastheHôtelrecallsthecity’sportactivitywithitslinesintheshapeofship’sprow.Thewinebarcombinesneo-classicalarchitecturewithandcontemporaryfurniture.introducedmetoayoungsommelierwhohandedmethelist.Itfeaturedaselectionoftwenty-eightdifferentsparkling,white,rose,andredwinesfromtheregion.theglass,pricesrangefrom2to8Euros.Crdu30Juillet,33000Bordeaux,France https://baravin.bordeaux.com/#post-5-title
La Cité du Vin Since 2016, Bordeaux has been the home of the most magnificent wine museum on the planet. In May 2022, the La Cité du Vin Museum welcomed its two-millionth visitor. The “City of Wine” is run by the Foundation for Wine Culture and Civilizations. The building is easy to recognize. It is designed like a giant glass decanter situated near the Garonne River. La Cité du Vin is easily accessible via Bordeaux’s tram system, with its designated stop. Visitors may also take a ferry to the museum’s pier. The museum opens daily at 10:00 am. Visitors should plan 2-3 hours for their visit. There are several permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum’s overarching theme focuses on showcasing the world’s great wine regions. The permanent exhibits have an “Epcot-like” feel, showcasing quick movies featuring winemakers commenting from the world’s most famous areas (California, Bordeaux, Australia, Germany). I can’t describe everything. This is a must-visit if you enjoy wine, culture, and art!
The museum’s contemporary architecture is genuinely evocative of the soul of wine and the liquid element, “a seamless, immaterial and sensual roundness.” The building materials include steel, 574 curved arches, 2,240 aluminum panels, and 925 glass panels.
WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL52 Vol. 1 2022 Feature : Bordeaux is back!
53WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Bordeaux Thanks to digital and interactive technologies, the permanent exhibition traces, in an innovative way, the epic story of wine culture. A personal radio-like device called the “digital exhibition guide” allows animations to be triggered and comments to be heard in one of eight languages. Visitors have the option to alternate between individual and collective experiences. A series of exhibit modules include: • The World Wine Tour • Wine Planets • Winegrowers and terroirs • In the vines • Winemaking • Six Wine families • Along the rivers • Across the Seas • The Buffet of the Five Senses • The Gallery of Civilizations • A Matter of Taste • Dinner is Served! • One-to-one with the experts • Wine and Love Other must visit include: • The Belvedere is located on the 8th floor with a 35-meter-high ceiling, spectacular views of Bordeaux, and a wine bar where you pick a glass of wine to enjoy while you take in the views. • The Reading Room - Library with more than 2,000 wine books to read. • La Boutique, Gift Shop, and Wine Store • Food and Drink Areas • Le 7 Restaurant Panoramique - for the ultimate gourmet experience For up-to-date information, https://www.laciteduvin.com/envisit:
Located on the 7th floor of La Cité du Vin, Le 7 Restaurant offers stunning views of the city and the river Garonne. The Maison Lascombes restaurant group runs the restaurant, operators of ten highly regarded restaurants around Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. This 110-seat restaurant has 500 wines by the bottle from 50 countries and 36 wines by the glass. The restaurant is modern and chic by design. The menu is seasonally focused and cooked with international techniques.
CitéPanoramiqueRestaurant-LaduVinExceptional on all levels!
I was excited to experience the restaurant for lunch. I let the sommelier pair each course with a wine from the wines-by-the-glass list. Since I was taking photos of the food, the manager provided a well-lit table near the glass windows. Menu Smoked ham with salted French butter. Pepper puree with pickled vegetables Paired with Château Thieuley 2020 - Bordeaux Rosé Glass 12.5cl € 6.00 Langoustines (tempura) style € 21 Caviar from Mason Sturgeon, Aquitaine, cauliflower, and grapefruit Paired with Petit Guiraud 2018 Bio-dynamic - Sauternes White Glass 12.5cl € 10.00 Supreme of Farm Poultry-Roast Chicken Crispy skin, potatoes foam, mushrooms from Médoc, reduced jus Paired with 2014 Chateau Haut Brisson La Grave, Saint-Emilion 70 % Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc Glass 12.5cl € 9.00 Dessert
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I was very excited to watch a young eighteen-year-old pastry chef hand making elaborate desserts at a counter in plain view of the restaurant guests. Chocolate and Peanut Sphere Filled with vanilla ice cream and chocolate cake
Le 7
Where to Eat:
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WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL56 Vol. 1 2022 Where to stay nearby: LocatedBordeauxRenaissanceHoteljusttwoblocksfromLaCitéduVin,thenewly built Renaissance Bordeaux Hotel is a 5-star luxury hotel with exceptional amenities. The rooftop bar and restaurant with a deck have exciting views of the city and La Cité du Vin. Renaissance Bordeaux Hotel 16 Rue de Gironde, Bordeaux, France, 33000 Tel: +33 05-19800200 Rooms range from €245 per night. renaissance-bordeaux-hotel/overview/https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/bodbrPhotos: (Above) Entrance at hotel is a historic flour mill. (Below) outdoor deck overlooks La Cité du Vin and river. My king bedroom. Feature : Bordeaux is back!
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WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL58 Vol. 1 2022 Feature : Mighty Mendoza
59WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Mighty Mendoza Argentina’s High Altitude Mega Producing Wine Region Story and Photos by Christopher J Davies & Darcy Davies
InRegionProducingMegaWinelateFebruary2022,DarcyandItraveledtoArgentina for the first time in twelve years. We discussed the idea of revisiting in December 2021, when we confirmed our desire to leave frigid Colorado for a warmer climate. We reached out to the folks at the Wines of Argentina to discuss plans for a visit to cover the 2022 harvest. Luckily, the trade association Wines of Argentina (WOFA) was able to aid. After doing our research, we became very excited about all the developments that had taken place since we last visited Mendoza in 2006. Back then we had participated in an extensive press trip that included more than 40 wine writers transported in a full-sized motor coach. In 2006, Argentina’s wineries were primarily producing two wines, Malbec and Torrontés. We visited three wineries daily for a whole week, having beef-filled barbeque lunches and Asado of grilled meats for dinner. For this year’s visit, we planned our personalized itinerary for the two of us in conjunction with the Wines of Argentina (WOFA) team in Mendoza. We were excited to see that wineries had expanded their plantings beyond the stereotypical red (Malbec) and white (Torrontés) grapes. Nowadays, wineries in Mendoza have expanded their range of wines to include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc. Several wineries have now embraced wine tourism to the same level as Napa by adding restaurants and posadas (B&Bs/inns) on their property. The winery restaurants have delectable and diversified menus that offer much more than meat. We found fish, rabbit, lamb, sweetbreads, and poultry on several menus. We were pleasantly surprised at how welcoming our hosts were to us. Argentina’s health authorities had locked things down for more than a year with COVID restrictions and our hosts were excited to receive visitors from the United States again. WOFA provided a professional driver who drove us to three wineries daily, where we tasted six to ten wines at each. We flew from Denver to Houston, connecting with our overnight flight to Buenos Aires. The flights were uneventful and smooth.
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Feature : Mighty Mendoza
Argentina’s High Altitude
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We decided to stay and explore Buenos Aires for two days before traveling to Mendoza. I researched hotels online and found the highly rated Mio Buenos Aires Hotel on Hotels.com.
The Mio Buenos Aires is in the city’s most elegant Recoleta neighborhood. This affluent area is filled with French-style townhouses, stately parks, and the world-famous Recoleta Cemetery, which contains lavish tombs and is the final resting place for national icons like Eva Perón. The Catena family owns the Mio Buenos Aires and are fourthgeneration winemakers. Their website states that “wine is in every corner” of this hotel. The ground-level Verdot Wine Bar showcases exclusive wines from Mendoza with typical Argentinian appetizers like tapas, meat and cheese platters, and empanadas. This 5-star hotel provides a lot of luxury value for the money. The hotel is modern and spacious with elegant rooms. Every room features a massive wooden bathtub, hand carved from calden trees by Argentinian artist Mario Dasso in La Pampa. The rooms are spacious with comfortable beds. Many have patios.
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Old World European Style, Latin Energy
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• Fried Dorada, with Cuttlefish, Cauliflower, and Basil Gnocchi
• Carpaccio of Llama (from the highlands of Jujuy) with capers
Peña 2300, C1126 https://rouxresto.com/CABA
Roux,ROUXaFrench/Mediterranean/Latin fusion restaurant, is the brainchild of Chef Martin Rebaudino, an Argentinian native who gained global experience working at restaurants in Spain. He is a master at creating multi-course meals and pairing dinners with wine (9,500 pesos per person). Contrary to typical Argentina restaurants, Roux offers a great selection of seafood and shellfish dishes on its menu.
The space is located on a busy corner on the edge of Recoleta. The interior reminded me of a typical cafe in Paris.
Roux **** (4-Stars!)
Where to eat:
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Try: • Crispy Rice Nest with Tempura Prawns from Puerto Madryn and grilled Hass Avocado from Oràn (Prov. of Salta)
WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL66 Vol. 1 2022 Where to eat: Mercado San Telmo ***1/2(3 ½ Stars) A fantastic market located in a historic French-style building with numerous food, art, and lifestyle vendors. This large indoor market has stalls offering everything from antiques to fresh fruit and spices. We loved De Lucia Tapas, which had fresh seafood, paella, and a great selection of wines from Argentina. Don (RecommendedJulioformeatlovers by Sebastian Zuccardi) Regretfully, we did not have the time to visit Buenos Aires’s most revered restaurant for carnivores because the reservations were booked several weeks out. Patrons’ reviews (locals and tourists) rave about dining on the fantastic Ojo de bife (rib-eye steak) and cuadril (rump steak). The chorizo sausages are a foodie favorite. Don GuatemalaJulio 4691, C1425 CABA, Argentina Tel. +54 11 https://www.parrilladonjulio.com/5311-5668 Feature : Mighty Mendoza
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69WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONALVol. 1 2022 Osaka ***** Cocina(5-Stars!)Nikkei We visited the eclectic Japanese-Peruvian restaurant in the city’s Palermo neighborhood. It is one of its many locations worldwide. They specialize in Nikkei, which is not simply a mix of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines, but an inbreeding of the cultures with origins dating back over 100 years to when 7,000 Japanese migrated to Peru. All the dishes showcase the freshest seafood we have ever tasted! Try: • •Smoked Octopus Tiradito • •Scallop and Shrimp Ceviche in Wasabi Sauce • •Ebi Mentaiko: Shrimp, Roasted Ricotta Cream, Sake, and Tobiko They have an excellent selection of white and red wines from Argentina. Soler 5608, C1425BYH CABA, https://osakanikkei.com/en/local/buenos-airesArgentina Buenos Aires
Day One Harvest time in Mendoza is a time for celebrating. The city has a famous annual grape festival called Vendimia. We arrived in Mendoza just one week before the festival. Visitors fully booked all hotels, and the park across the street from the Park Hyatt had fountains spewing out winecolored water.
on Aerolíneas Argentinas, Argentina’s largest airline. Our flight was packed, and we flew in coach. We both had two bags each to check, and the check-in agent made us pay the equivalent of $90 for the extra bags. Oddly, the bag allowance was only one per passenger. The aircraft was relatively new, and the flight crew was efficient. The flight time was just under two hours. Mendoza is a more rustic agricultural town within the shadows of the majestic Andes mountains. In some ways, it reminds me of Denver and Boulder, but with significantly taller mountains, some reaching over 21,000 feet versus Colorado’s highest 14,000-foot mountains.
Top restaurant Grill Q Mendoza restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, featuring traditional meat dishes and classic parrilla Argentina https://parkhyattmendozahotelcasino.com-hotel.com/
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Darcy and I woke up, packed our bags, and went down to Bistro M Restaurant for a quick breakfast. I gave a young bellman our bags and told him that a driver would be coming to pick us up. Twenty minutes later, the bellman approached our table and informed us that our driver had arrived. Darcy met the driver while I went to the front desk and checked us out of the hotel. When I checked out, our bellman waived me to the car, where Darcy was seated in the back row. I joined her, and the driver proceeded out of town. I tried greeting our driver with, “Hola, Mauro,” but all he did was smile back at us. Twenty minutes later, the driver pulled into the Mendoza airport terminal and parked in front of the departure gate. I told him, “No!” He gave us a strange, mystified look. I said, “scuzi,” which is “excuse me” in Italian. “Un momento,” I said next. We had an apparent mix-up at the start of our day! Our itinerary was organized by Sofia Brazzolotto, Senior Hospitality Assistant at Wines of Argentina. I called Sofia, and she told me that our driver, Mauro, was waiting for us in front of the Park Hyatt hotel. I called Mauro, and he was able to speak with the driver and redirect him to take us to our first appointment at Proemio Wines. We arrived 40 minutes behind schedule during a rainstorm. Fortunately, Marcelo Eduardo Bocardo, President, and his son Nicolas, Export Manager, were very forgiving.
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Where to stay: Park Hyatt Hotel and Casino, Mendoza The Park Hyatt is a 5-star hotel located in Mendoza’s city center with a magnificent twentieth-century French academy neoclassical façade. It is by far Mendoza’s top hotel for discerning travelers. They have several restaurants and amenities you would expect from a Park Hyatt hotel. The wine program is stellar, backed by a team of seasoned Somms to guide you through their selection of bottles from Argentina’s top producers.
WeMendozaflewfromBuenosAirestoMendoza
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Unoaked (****1/2) $11.00 Dark ruby. Aromas of cherry, and chalky, delicious fruit. (Available in the US) Fifty thousand bottles were made.
Proemio 2018 Marcelo Bocardo Reserve Malbec (****1/2) $16.00 100% Malbec. Dark ruby. Aromas of rich and lush deep cherry flavors. Taste of blueberry and chocolate.
Proemio Wines
Proemio 2017 Reserve Syrah-Grenache (****1/2) $18.00 Dark ruby. Aromas of cherry, and plum flavors. Great firm tannins. 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache. (Available in the US). Three thousand bottles were made.
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Marcelo Eduardo Bocardo is a third-generation winemaker and descendant of an Italian immigrant family. He was born and raised in Mendoza. This passionate father-and-son-run company was established in 2002. Their winery is in a former winery that was built in 1930. They adapted and modernized the facility to produce premium-level wines while maintaining the building’s original Mendoza architecture. The focus is on producing high-quality, well-structured, modern wines with well-defined characteristics for each grape variety. The vineyards were certified organic in 2017. We sat down with Eduardo and Nicolas. They told us that Chardonnay had been harvested just last week, and Malbec was near ready for picking.
Proemio 2018 Single Vineyard Red Blend (*****) $56.00 Blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Opaque. Aromas of earth, leather, and smoky fruit. Taste of chewy and juicy fruit burst.
Proemio 2021 Malbec Rose (****) Beautiful$11.00salmon color. Aromas of red fruits, cherries, and plums. Balanced acidity and morality. 100% Malbec. Ten thousand bottles were produced. Annual Production: 500,000 bottles Malbec is 85% of their export sales. Proemio Wines Winery Severo del Castillo (Los Corralitos) 5250 www.proemiowines.comMendoza
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Wines
Proemio means “prologue” or “kickstart” in Old Spanish.
ProemioTasted:2021Malbec
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Casa
Vigil (El Enemigo)
El Enemigo 2016 Gran Enemigo El Cepillo Single Vineyard (****) $65 Ruby color. Dark fruit with green bell pepper, strawberries, and cherries. Cabernet Franc 85%, Malbec 15%. Firm tannins. Estate Olive Oil Alejandro and his wife launched another venture, “Old Tree,” which makes several lines of olive oil. The couple and family members are behind the project, taking a scientific approach. We tried Lussuria and the estate premium olive oils, Omerta.
El Enemigo 2018 Semillon (****) $28 to $22.99 Gold straw. Made in an old-world style. Aromas of white flowers, earth, and stone. Great finish! 10% new barrels, 90% used barrels.
We visited during harvest, and Alejandro had his hands full. Regretfully, he was unable to meet us. Mariana Aquerre, Export Sales Manager, stepped in as our very knowledgeable and gracious host. We met her for a delicious lunch and wine tasting at Casa Vigil Bodega, a wine tasting room with a fantastic wine shop and restaurant. The walk from the parking lot took us through vineyards and a series of eclectic art installations.
El Enemigo 2018 Chardonnay (**** 1/2) $24.99 Yellow straw. Aromas of citrus, earth, granny smith apples. Tastes of dried apple and pear. It is made from grapes grown in the Uco Valley.
Casa Vigil (El Enemigo)
El Enemigo means “the enemy” in Spanish.
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Alejandro Vigil is one of Argentina’s most avant-garde winemakers. He has a degree in agriculture and irrigation, two critical skills necessary for successful grape growing in Argentina. He is the Winemaking Director at Bodega Catena Zapata. Vigil is accredited for producing the first two 100-point wines from Argentina.
El Enemigo was created in 2010 by Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena, winemaker Nicolas Catena’s youngest daughter. Adrianna grew up in Argentina, watching her father’s immense success in permanently putting Argentinian wines on the global wine map.
Wines Tasted:
El Enemigo 2016 Gran Enemigo Agrelo Single Vineyard (**** 1/2) $99.00 Deep ruby color. A complex wine with herbs and a vast spice box. Eucalyptus, thyme with ripe black fruits. Cabernet Franc 85%, Malbec 15%
El Enemigo 2016 Gran Enemigo Chacayes Single Vineyard (****) Burgundy,$132-$116deep purple. Deep aromas of berries, cherries, and plums with blackberries and violets. Ripe Tannins. This wine needs to be opened one to two hours before consumption. Cabernet Franc 85%, Malbec 15%
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El Enemigo Wines:http://www.enemigowines.com/ Casa Vigil: http://www.universovigil.com/chachingo.html
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*Silverside is a small fish with large eyes and silver stripes on both sides. This fish can be found in freshwater or saltwater. Originally indigenous to Australia, it can also be caught in the rivers and sea near Buenos Aires.
Dishes were paired with: Gran Enemigo Chardonnay Gran Enemigo Blend Gran Enemigo Chacayes Single Vineyard Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard
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Feature : Mighty Mendoza
The restaurant features a rich selection of dishes and utilizes fresh ingredients from Alejandro and his wife María’s garden when available.
The main menu offers a three-course lunch (without wines) for 5,800 pesos/USD 44.
Wanting to sample several dishes, I ordered the Six Course Menu with wine pairings for 11,500 pesos/USD 86. The Dishes: I also ordered the delicious •Gazpacho cold soup with a rich rustic tomato, creamy parmesan, and brightly fresh basil leaves.
Another stand-out that caught my attention was the •Ossobuco Empanada with Tomato Chimichurri. Bravo for an exquisite taste. Veal Ribs / Andean Potato / Zucchini / Demi-Glace / Mushrooms Silverside / Lime Cream / Watercress & Fennel / Chili Jam Beetroot / Chocolate / Lavender
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The food and wines were exquisite. I highly recommend this restaurant as a must-stop in Mendoza.
Casa Bodega Vigil
WeRestaurantsatwithMarianaatalovelytable in the back of the restaurant to unpack my camera gear away from other diners. The décor was warm and welcoming. The stone walls were decorated with paintings and modern art, including a unique round kaleidoscope-style window that let in psychedelic purple, red, and blue light patterns. Wine barrels were carefully stacked in different corners and nooks of the dining room.
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Over thirty years later in 2000, fourth-generation winemaker Federico Benegas Lynch purchased the 19th-century winery and rebuilt it to what it is now. The building was built in 1901 by the former Governor of Mendoza, Agustín Álvarez.
Bodegas Benegas has a rich and distinct history in the Argentinian wine industry, dating back four generations. In 1884, when the railroad system was introduced in Argentina, agriculture in Mendoza switched from growing alfalfa to grapes. The budding Argentinian wine industry boomed as it became the region’s focus. The Benegas family became linked to the wine industry from its inception.
Bodegas
Benegas
In 1883, Don Tiburcio founded El Trapiche Winery. The winery was in the family’s hands until it was sold in 1970. The family sold the brands but kept their surname out of the deal.
Bodegas Benegas
We visited the winery and met Germán Carrasco, General Manager, and Gabriela Zavala Jurado, Operations Manager. They gave us a tour of the massive building with 80 concrete tanks. The tanks have a total capacity of 800,000 liters, although not all are used fully. There are 350 French oak barrels used for aging the wines. The winery is decorated with native ponchos collected by Federico on his many trips throughout Argentina. The winery has an enormous 40-meter-long (120 ft) room capable of entertaining a significant function or event. There is a 10-meter (30 ft) wooden table and a 7-meter (21 ft) indoor grill evoking Mendoza’s Criolla tradition. We were excited to be invited to dine with Federico Benegas Lynch later that evening for a traditional Argentina Asado.
Finca Libertad (Liberty Estate) is planted on an old riverbed, located on the edge of the Alto Río Mendoza in the Cruz de Piedra area. The vineyards of this farm were planted by Don Tiburcio when he brought over the first French stakes.
Today, Bodegas Benegas combines 80 hectares of planted vines and produces 500,000 bottles annually.
Bodega Benegas Carmela Benegas 2021 Cabernet Franc Rosé (**** 1/2) $11-13 Nice salmon color. Lush, fresh fruit aromas, including cherry, strawberry, and raspberry. Long finish with Cabernet Franc notes. (Currently not sold on the US market.)
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In 1999, Federico bought what Ángel Mendoza, Trapiche’s winemaker at the time, considered the best 40 hectares of the old Finca Libertad.
Germán and Gabriela offered a tasting of Benegas’s Carmela Benegas 2021 Cabernet Franc Rosé before dropping us at our hotel to check-in.
Don Tiburcio Benegas came from an illustrious family and had an extensive career in politics, serving as a National Senator, Regional Governor, and two-time Argentine Ambassador to Chile. He was a trailblazer in promoting Mendoza’s irrigation system, enacting water laws, and building Mendoza’s first dam. He later traveled to France and brought back cuttings used to graft onto rootstock, helping expand vineyards in Mendoza.
The regions of Maipú and Luján de Cuyo – where the winery and Finca Libertad are located – are within the so-called “First Zone,” an area traditionally known for producing the best quality wines in Argentina.
BodegaTastedBenegas
Bodega Benegas 2020 Cabernet Franc (**** 1/2) $18 Ruby red with brown edges. Herbaceous with complex dark, dry fruit aromas. Flavors of currant and raspberry. Full-bodied with a great finish.
Clara Benegas 2021 Chardonnay (****) $13 Light yellow, clean with green hues. Aromas of elegant peach and white flowers. Flavors of citrus and pineapple, with a great finish.
The Dinner at Bodegas Benegas
We were excited to meet Mr. Federico Benegas Lynch at his winery later that evening. We were joined for dinner by GM Germán Carrasco at the long wooden table in the great room. Behind our two hosts was a winery chef working his magic on the large indoor grill. Mr. Benegas is a handsome, slim man with a wealth of knowledge about enology and the history of winemaking in Mendoza. He was friendly and engaging.
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Wines
Bodega Benegas 2021 Dos Alturas Malbec (****) $13 Inky. The strong presence of blueberry and blackberry aromas. Juicy, round, and pleasant on the palate.
Bodega Benegas 2009 Finca Libertad Blend (*****) N/A Deep ruby. A luscious blend of deep, vibrant red fruit. Blend of 33 1/3 Merlot, 33 1/3 Cabernet Sauvignon, 33 1/3 Cabernet AFranc.fantastic library wine made from 130-year-old vine grapes. Mr. Benegas very generously pulled out several library wines from his cellar. The Asado of beef, chorizo, and grilled vegetables was phenomenal! Benegas Winery Aráoz 1600 (Provincial Route 60) Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina. Tel: +54 261 https://benegaswinery.com/?lang=e4960794
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½)
The production facility is state of the art and well designed.
Bodega Mauricio Lorca Block 1 Malbec (*****) $25 Deep purple. Vibrant in the mouth. Bright fruit, deep cherry, stone fruit, blackberry. A tremendous, valued wine.
Enrique Foster Edicon Limitada 2015 Malbec (*****) $35-40 Opaque. Stone fruit, berries. Oaky, leathery, toasty, smoky cigar. A manly wine. 100% Malbec fermented in oak.
Bodega Mauricio Lorca 2015 Inspirado Blend (**** ½) $90-100 Opaque. Stone, earth with blackberries. Blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Petit Verdot.
Enrique Foster 2018 Malbec Single Vineyard (**** $20 Dark crimson. Lush cherry and raspberry.
Bodega Mauricio Lorca 2019 Ancestral Malbec (****) $100 Opaque. Stone fruit, dark baked fruits. Unoaked.
Bodega Mauricio Lorca 2018 Inspirado Blend (**** ½) $90-100 Dark deep purple. Big mouthful of cherry and blueberries. Juicy, smoky blackberry finish. The company also produces three sparkling wines sold in Latin America.
Enrique Foster and Mauricio Lorca built a modern winery to produce their wine brands under one roof. Mauricio is the principal winemaker. Together, they are making an extensive range of wines, producing a total volume of over two million bottles annually. Many of these wines are available in the United States.
Bodega Foster Lorca
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Wines Tasted
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Where to Stay:
Finca Adalgisa Wine Hotel, Vineyard, and Located(****)Wineryjustminutesfrom Bodegas Benegas is Finca Adalgisa.
This boutique hotel has just eleven rooms with unique character and Builtcharm.over one hundred years ago, the property was converted from a family home to its current state in 2001. Rooms are finely decorated with classic details. We loved that the bathroom had a beautiful porcelain tub. A quaint foyer in the middle of the lobby has antique furnishing and vintage photos of the family. Staying there amidst the vineyards provides an authentic wine country experience. There is a beautiful swimming pool to help cool you off in Mendoza’s pre-harvest heat.
The property has a cozy wine bar that serves delicious local wines and tapas until 10pm. They make a delightful home-cooked breakfast in the morning with freshly baked bread.
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Finca Adalgisa
Finca Adalgisa (Rates $335 to 400 USD per night)
Pueyrredon 2222 Chacras de Coria Mendoza 5505 https://www.fincaadalgisa.com/Argentina Wine Hotel
Feature : Mighty Mendoza
Piattelli Vineyards -
WeMendozawereveryjazzedtovisitPiattelli
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Vineyards in Mendoza, and we have been big fans of their wines for more than 15 years. Their President, Eric J. Malinski, has a home in Denver and has entered wines in our Denver International Wine Competition, taking gold medals on many occasions. Their winery opened in 2002 and is led by Valeria Antolin, the Estates Manager, and Chief Winemaker. The winery is in the foothills of the Andes Mountains, receiving precious water from melted snow that is used to irrigate the vines. The location is nestled between famous neighbors like Zapata Catena, which share a fence between their Weproperties.metValeria at 9:30 am and sat in the winery tasting room to sample their wines. The winery reception features modern designs with wooden beams, large windows, and a beautiful wrap-around deck that overlooks an artificial lake and the vineyards in the Valeriadistance.is warm, friendly, and passionate about her wines. According to Valeria, “it’s impossible to make world-class wine unless you start with world-class grapes. The best technique in the world won’t make up for an environment not perfectly suited to a given varietal (variety of Currently,grape).”Piattelli grows its grapes in three areas within two regions. They grow their grapes in the Mendoza region in two locations: Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, and Tupungato, West Valle de Uco. These areas lie directly east of the Argentine/Chilean range of the Andes Mountains and are sheltered from the salty Pacific Ocean-front Theclimate.Mendoza winery produced 40,000 cases per year at its maximum capacity. Piattelli has added a steel building to keep up with its expansion goals. By 2022, they are projecting three million bottles, plus another one and a half million bottles from purchased grapes.
Piattelli Vineyards 2019 Limited Edition Cabernet Franc (**** 1/2) $ 34.99 Ruby red. Forest floor and currants. Old-world style. Bright fruit, grass, earth, bell pepper. Piattelli Vineyards N/V Sparkling Wine (****) $26.99 Straw. Methode Champonise style. 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir. Yeasty nose. Valeria gave us a tour of the winery and some unique barrel tastes! We will post videos soon. https://www.piattellivineyards.com/mendoza
2021 Reserve Rosé of Malbec (****1/2) $14 Nice salmon color. Scents of strawberry and marshmallow. Tastes of strawberries and cherries. Piattelli Vineyards 2020 Reserve Malbec (*****) $15 Deep burgundy. Aged eight months in oak, six months in bottle. Scents of blueberry and white flowers. Great fruit, full mouthfeel. Piattelli Vineyards Malbec/Tanat (**** 1/2) $15 Deep ruby. 50% Malbec, 50% Tanat. Scents of dry raspberry, leather, and mocha. Fruity berry and dark cherry taste.
Piattelli Vineyards 2019 Gran Reserve Malbec (**** 1/2) $22 Deep purple. Fresh, vibrant, chewy, and fruity. Limited production. Piattelli Vineyards 2019 Trinita Reserve (****) $22 Deep purple. Aromas of whole fruit with white flowers. Juicy! Blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. It is aged in oak for 13 months and in a bottle for 12 months. Piattelli Vineyards 2019 Gran Reserve Malbec (**** 1/2) $22 (Check Vintage w/DD) Deep purple. Aromas of spice, plum, and cassis. Fresh, vibrant, chewy, and fruity mouth. Limited production. Piattelli Vineyards 2019 Arlene Serie Blend (**** 1/2) $35 Opaque. Scents of dark baked blueberry pie. Excellent blueberry pie taste. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.
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Wines PiattelliTastedVineyards
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Susana Balbo Wines
Jose explained that their company used American oak barrels from the beginning and that they transition from using grapes grown at higher Thealtitudes.company is in the process of reinterpreting its heritage (older) vineyards. The focus is on the retention of acidity.
Susana Balbo 2018 Ben Marco Expresivo (****) $35 Dark purple. Dark fruit, cassis, and herbs. Taste of tart cherries, blackberries, and violets. Terroir-driven wine. A blend of 85% Malbec, 15% Cabernet Franc. Susana Balbo 2019 Brioso (**** 1/2) $45 Dark ruby. Chalky flowers and stone fruit. Taste of dark fruit, spices, and blueberry. Great texture. Blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec, 18% Cabernet Franc, 6% Petit Verdot.
Paired with Susan Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontes
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Susana Balbo 2018 Nosotros (**** 1/2) $115 Deep ruby. Overwhelming (in a good way) berry wall smells. Aromas of blueberries and blackberries. The family calls this their “Icon Wine.” Single vineyard designation. 100% Malbec.
White Salmon, almonds, peach, pumpkin, and black rice
Susana Balbo Wines
Signature 2021 del Plata Rosé Valle De Uco (**** 1/2) $22 Wonderful salmon/pink color. Aromatic with provincial characteristics. Fresh flowers. Melons and tart fruits. High-level acidity.
Wines SusanaTastedBalbo
Lunch Menu: Osadía de Crear, the family winery restaurant Sweetbread, seaweed, red quinoa, beat root Paired with BenMarco Pinot Noir
The company was preparing to open a new spa hotel with seven integrated hotel rooms during our visit.
Olive oil and matcha sponge, pistachio, and white chocolate Paired with Crios Dulce Natural
Vineyards: 36 hectares They also purchase grapes. Bottles produced per year: 3 million. https://en.susanabalbowines.com.ar/
Susana Balbo 2021 Barrel Fermented Torrontes (*****) $20 Light gold. Aromas of perfume, and flowers. Fragrant and complex. Barrel fermented in American oak.
To say that Susana Balbo is a trailblazer is an understatement. She was Argentina’s first female enologist and is respected as a pioneer in creating Argentina’s white wine revolution. Many industry folks refer to Susana as the “Queen of Torrontes.” She planted her vineyard in 1999 and her winery was built soon after. When we visited her winery, she was traveling outside Argentina. We met with her son Jose Lovaglio Balbo, a winemaker and R+D Manager. We were happy to join Jose for a tasting and delicious lunch at the winery.
Susana Balbo 2020 Crios Malbec (**** 1/2) $15 Dark ruby. Scents of blueberries and baked berry pie. It tastes like baked berries and leather. Crios means “offspring”. This wine is the winery’s greatest distributed in the US.
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Catena Malbec Argentino 2019 (****1/2) $119 Deep ruby! Powerful, lush dark fruit. A true classic from Argentina. The grapes are sourced from two 100-year-old vineyards. Nicolas Catena Zapata 2018 (*****) $45 Dark burgundy! Aromas of blueberry and leather. Lovely deep blueberry and raspberry flavors. Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% AlejandroMalbec.Vigil is the Wine Director of Bodega Catena Zapata. He was not available when we visited. Winemaker Fernando Buscema guided us through this excellent tasting of five Catena wines, three of which we rated 5 out of 5 stars! Before we left, we asked about some construction that was taking place near the winery. It is supposed to be a little hush, but we learned that Catena was building a restaurant with posada (B&B). https://catenazapata.com/index.php
Bodega Catena
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Catena Zapata Winery has a unique design. The pyramid-shaped winery was inspired by Mayan architecture and rises above the vines. The barrel room is circular with a tasting room at the center and carefully laid oak barrels fill the barrel room in circular patterns.
Bodega Catena Zapata
WeZapatametNicolasCatena
Zapata in 2006 during our first visit to Mendoza. Back then as well as today, he is respected as one of Argentina’s pioneers in making premium quality wines. His scientific approach compares Mendoza’s terroir to the world’s other grape-growing areas. He has determined that the alluvial soils in Mendoza’s vineyards are NOT homogenous. In other words, in the same vineyard row, you can find significant differences in the physical and chemical composition. Catena has also studied how Argentina’s high-altitude vineyards affect quality. When we visited this time, we were welcomed by Mariana Sanchez, who handles hospitality at the winery. Nicolas and his daughter, Dr. Laura Catena, were not available to meet us this time.
Laura is a biologist who graduated from Harvard University with honors and started the Catena Institute of Wine. They collaborate with the University of California Davis and Universidad Nacional de Cuyo. The Catena Institute provides leadership for the university research and development programs.
Wines CatenaTastedAltaChardonnay 2019 (*****) $35-45 Gold straw. Aromas of butter, spice, and flowers. A lovely butterscotch and cinnamon taste. It was aged in new neutral oak.
Catena Alta Malbec 2018 (****1/2) $40-45 Dark burgundy. Pleasant blueberry scents. Dry red fruit taste. 100% Malbec blend from five different vineyard lots.
Catena Alta Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (*****) $45 Opaque. Excellent juicy fruit with a great finish. Chalky and spice notes. A blend 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc. Blend from three vineyards. It was aged for 18 months in French Oak.
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Family
Durigutti
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Durigutti Winemakers
PronouncedWinemakersFamily“Dory-goo-tee,”DuriguttiFamilyWinemakers is a twentyyear-old company run by two winemaker brothers from Mendoza, Hector, and Pablo Durigutti. Until recently, they made their wines at a co-op. They have now established a winery, vineyards with a restaurant, and a B&B that we enjoyed staying at during our visit. This very ambitious expansion results from the brothers’ hard work and dedication. They are passionate winemakers that make over sixty different wines. The United States has multiple distributors representing specific portions of its portfolio, and its Export Manager Ricardo Arrambide has a challenging job managing such a diversified range of wines. We were excited to see some of their wines on the shelves of Trader Joe’s in WeDenver.satdown with Hector and Pablo and tasted a host of wines.
Wines DuriguttiTastedFamily Winemakers
Proyecto Las Comuertas Griola 2020 (****) $25 Light ruby. Cherry Lifesaver, roses. Light taste, medium finish, delightful cherries. It is made from an indigenous grape. Durigutti Proyecto Las Comuertas Griola 2020 (****) $25 Light ruby. Cherry Lifesaver, roses. Durigutti Proyecto Las Comuertas Cabernet Franc 2020 (*****) $30 Ruby. Spice box, green pepper, and herbs. Dark cherry, white flowers. Great finish. Durigutti Pie De Monte Malbec 2018 (****) $20 Opaque. Blackberry and leather scents. It tastes like blueberry and cherries. It is made from grapes grown at Finca Las Jarillas, Uco Valley. Durigutti Grand Reserve Malbec 2018 (*****) $30 Almost opaque. Cherry scents. It tastes of baked cherries with a long finish—a terrific value. Durigutti Grand Reserve HD Malbec 2016 (****1/2) $30 Deep purple. Scents of blackberry and baked fruit. It tastes like bright, juicy red fruit and blueberry. It is made from grapes grown in the Uco Valley. Durigutti Grand Reserve HD Malbec 2016 (****1/2) $30 Deep purple. Scents of blackberry and baked fruit. It tastes like bright, juicy red fruit and blueberry.
Durigutti Grand Selection Carmela Malbec 2015 (****1/2) $30 Opaque. Blueberry and stone fruit. It tastes like dark cherries and baked fruit.
RolledFirstGarlicStarterSoupCoursecheese soufflé and findutta tomato Second Course Braised Rabbit with white wine and olives PavlovaDessert with seasonal fruits. Petit flour. https://durigutti.com/
Durigutti Hospitality Finca Victoria Durigutti recently opened two guesthouses for overnight stays. We loved staying at Casa Victoria, a modern and quaint two-bedroom home nestled in the vineyards. The house features a beautiful kitchen and a covered outdoor patio with expansive views of the vineyards.
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5 Suelos Cocina De Finca A new restaurant on the property. The restaurant is a modern concrete and steel building with large glass windows overlooking the vines. Suelos means “floors.”
Hector treated us to a delicious preview with a delightful menu with wine pairings.
SPECIAL MENU Welcome Reception Vermouth and bites from the clay oven
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Wines Tasted Rosell Boher 2021 Viognier (****) 1020 pesos/ $7.58 Gold straw. Caramel, floral, and white flower aromas. Tropical fruit, old world taste.
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We got to taste a selection in the wine cellar with the restaurant sommelier, Constanza Chiarelli.
This stunning property comprises a total of 44 hectares/108 acres nestled in vineyards with spectacular views of the Andes. Forty-two hectares are in the Uco Valley.
The lodge has a highly awarded restaurant with three guest rooms. The property also has 12 spectacular villas, each with rooftop spaces that include a private outdoor spa. The lodges offer well-appointed guest rooms, full bathrooms, living rooms, and kitchens. They have wine cellars in their basements that guests can view through a glass window built into the living room floor.
The property also has a winery and cellar, producing 400,000 bottles annually. A significant focus of the bottles produced is sparkling wine. Most of the sparkling wine is consumed by lodge visitors.
Rosell Boher 2020 Chardonnay (**** 1/2) 3,000 pesos/ $22.30 Gold. Caramel, yeasty baked apple aromas. Fresh toasted almond taste.
Rosell Boher Lodge
Lunch Menu Goat Cheese with Cucumber Paired with 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Grilled Steak Paired with 2018 Gran Corte Blend Ginger Ice Cream with roasted peaches Paired with NV Sparkling Brut The restaurant and lodge have received numerous awards, including the 2020 Wine Capitals “Best Restaurant” Award. Info here: https://www.rosellboher.com/lodge/
Rosell Boher 2020 Cabernet Franc (**** 1/2) 1,200 pesos/ $9.00 Deep crimson. Red fruit and spicey pepper aromas. Ripe blueberry, plum taste. Rosell Boher 2020 Gran Corte Blend (*****) 5,000 pesos/ $37.00 Opaque. Cocoa, leather, cassis, and anise aromas. Rhubarb, bell pepper and dark cherry taste. Blend of 25% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Malbec. Aged for 20 months in French oak, 12 months in bottle. Red fruit and spicey pepper aromas. Ripe blueberry, plum taste.
Rosell Boher NV Sparkling Encarnacion (*****) 3,800 pesos/ $28.25 Gold straw. Green apple and almond aromas. Lemon, bitter dry fruit, and green apple taste. Rosell Boher NV Gran Cuvee Millisema (*****) 5,175 pesos/ $38.75 Amber, salmon. Apricot, peach, and brioche aromas. Juicy almond, butterscotch, and Bing cherry aromas. Nice bubbles, long finish. We were hosted for lunch with the hotel Front Office Manager, Sophia Herrera. After lunch, Sophia gave us a tour of one of the guest villas.
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MatiasWinesRiccitelliisone of the rockstars of Argentina’s wine industry. This niche producer is a native of Salta, Argentina, and makes unique, premium-quality, natural wines. His small winery is set up with gravity feed and no stainless-steel tanks. He exclusively uses porcelain, cement, and neutral oak to ferment his wines.
Matias currently produces ten different white wines in a region dominated by reds. His production level is trim, but several of these wines have made their way to the United States. He is currently expanding with new vineyard holdings in the Uco Valley region. He is a severe winemaker with a great sense of humor, and you can see that in how he names his wines and selects avant-garde label designs for their bottles. He has trained around the world, experiencing countless harvests. He has winemaking in his blood, as his father, Jorge Riccitelli, is an award-winning winemaker in his own right. In 2012, Jorge was the first Latin American to be elected as the “Winemaker of the Year” by Wine Enthusiast® Magazine. We got to spend a mid-morning with Matias while he was smack in the middle of harvest.
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Matias Riccitelli
Wines MatiasTastedRiccitelli 2020 Chardonnay (*****) $40 Gold straw. Aromas of wildflowers. It tastes like apples, tart fruit with fresh citrus. It is made from 100% Chardonnay, sourced from two places. Four thousand bottles were produced. Matias Riccitelli 2021 Sauvignon Blanc
The best F*N Sauv Blanc we ever tasted! (*****) $60 Gold straw. Aromas of citrus, lemons, and straw. Lovely, lush citrus, lemons, and grapefruit. High altitude, low climate growing conditions. 100% Gualtallary, Valle de Uco. Three thousand bottles were produced. Matias Riccitelli 2021 Bastardo Trousseau (****1/2) $60 Cherry. Aromas of cherry lifesavers. Dark, baked berry taste. Light standup flavors with a long finish. Three thousand bottles were produced from old vines in Patagonia. Note: Trousseau or Trousseau Noir, also known as Bastardo and Merenzao, is an old variety of red wine grape originating in eastern France. Matias Riccitelli 2020 Malbec “The Party” (****1/2) $15-20 Deep purple. Aromas of menthol with raspberry and cherry. Dark cherry taste. Made from grapes grown in the Uco Valley. 100% fermented in concrete. Eighty thousand bottles were made. Matias Riccitelli 2020 Tinto de la casa (****1/2) $29-30 Burgundy. Dark cherry scents. Taste of dry, tart-baked cherries. Made from Malbec grown in two different vineyards. Twenty thousand bottles were made. Matias Riccitelli 2019 Cabernet Franc (****1/2) $40-45 Dark ruby. Cherry and forest floor scents. Cherry, chalk, and white flower flavors. 100% Cabernet Franc is grown in the Uco Valley at 1,300 meters/3,900 feet. Five thousand bottles were made. Matias Riccitelli 2018 Republic de Malbec (****) $50-60 Deep purple. Scents of fresh berry fruit. Dark berry and forest floor taste. Fermented in small concrete vats. Fruit is sourced from old vines. Fifteen thousand bottles were made. Matias Riccitelli 2019 Malbec (****1/2) $60 Deep purple. Cherry and white flower scents. Lush blueberry taste. High altitude vines, fermented in concrete vats. Five thousand bottles were made. Matias Riccitelli 2019 Riccitelli and Father (*****) $80 Deep purple. Red currant scents. Dark red cherry and blueberry tastes. 80% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc. It was fermented in concrete vats, and aged for 18 months. Five thousand bottles were made.
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A surprising restaurant lies behind the winery, built inside several shipping containers. Chef Juan Ventureyra leads the kitchen with inventive, delicious dishes. The focus is on fresh vegetables grown on the estate. We loved a selection of eight different varieties of freshly picked tomatoes, freshly baked bread, and crema. A delicious salad of arugula, mashed yams, and radish with fried chickpea balls was very satisfying. The bistro’s sous chef was a virtual encyclopedia of the garden. He was engaging and tried to teach us about the many varieties and flavors of radishes grown on the farm. They brought us two non-vegetarians and two lamb sliders with cheese. The dishes were paired with Riccitelli wines. The entire experience was terrific. A six-course menu where Juan presents his best creations paired with the cellar’s wines.
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Include a visit to the winery (wine tasting not included) at 12:30 pm Open Monday to Saturday at 12:30 pm March: $8,200 ARS ($60 USD) April and May: $8,900 ARS ($66 USD)
Feature : Mighty Mendoza
Riccitelli Bistró
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Bodega Vistalba
Bodega Vistalba was founded in Mendoza in 2003 by Carlos Pulenta, the third generation of a traditional winery family. He and his siblings were the previous owners of Bodega Trapiche, one of Argentina’s largest wine producers. After Trapiche was sold, Carlos went on to help Dutch entrepreneur and visionary Myndert Pon launch Bodega Salentein.
Wines ProgenieTastedSparkling Wine (****1/2) $5,000 pesos/ $37.00 USD Straw/Gold. Nutty and floral aromas. Sweet butter and caramel taste.
Today, the family’s newest winery is run by Carlos’s daughter Paula, the fourth generation of the Pulenta wine dynasty. She has been at the helm since 2002 and has a reputation for an impeccable focus on details.
We met with Paula and her resident sommelier for a guided tasting. We found the wines intriguing; however, most are not yet available in the United States. The wines are well-balanced and approachable. Some wines were higher alcohol than usual, ranging around 15%.
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Tomero 2018 Single Vineyard Semillon (****1/2) $2200 pesos/ $16.00 USD Straw gold. Aromas of honeysuckle and flowers. Old world style, elegant peach, minerals with a touch of oak.
Paula was warm, friendly, and happy to accept visitors to the winery after COVID lockdowns. They have vineyards in Lujan De Cuyo and the Uco Valley. They produce four wine brands:
Autóctono Parcela 2018 Unica Malbec Gualtallary (****1/2) $6,700 pesos/ $50.00 USD Deep ruby. Aromas of red berries and strawberry. Intense fruit taste with a long finish. Made of 100% Malbec. Uco Valley. Vistalba 2018 Corte Blend (****1/2) $8,100 pesos/ $60.00 USD Deep garnet. Aromas of plums and dried peaches. Bold red fruit, long finish. Icon of the winery. Blend of 67% Malbec, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Bonarda.
•Vistalba • Tomero • Progeny • Autóctono
https://www.bodegavistalba.com/es/index.html
The winery offers several educational classes (blending, blind tasting) and experiences like a treasure hunt and different levels of wine tastings. The facility also has a restaurant and wine bar offering lunches from Tuesday through Saturday. They also host corporate and private events.
Tomero 2018 Single Vineyard Petit Verdot (****) USD $25.00 Ruby. Aromas of red fruit and eucalyptus. Berry burst with dark plum and blueberry. Made from grapes grown in the Uco Valley. Tomero Gran Reserva 2018 Cuartel 41 (*****) $50.00 USD Deep purple. Aromas of ripe cherry and spice. Blueberries and lingering tannins.
Bodega Vistalba
Feature : Mighty Mendoza
The Caiquén is a wild goose from Patagonia that flies between Argentina and Chile across the Andes. The Caiquén takes up a significant challenge by embarking on this cross-border flight.
Kaiken has an earnest approach to sustainability. They published a comprehensive report on their website in 2020. We came across a hectogon-shaped cement shed with triangular windows where we could see cow horns suspended from its ceiling. This practice is used in biodynamic farming. We were also given a tour of the massive wine production facilities and barrel cellar. Afterward, the ladies invited us into a large boardroom to sit and taste some wine.
We arrived in the late afternoon and were greeted by Ana Correas Argerich, Commercial Director, Carolina Macaya De Moras, Hospitality Coordinator, and Nicole Monteleone, Agronomical Engineer. The three invited us to tour the 28.5-hectare vineyard estate to better understand the terroir. We got to see the irrigation system that feeds the vines with precious water from the Andes.
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Kaiken Wines
The winery was founded in 2000 by Aurelio Montes, legendary founder, and winemaker of the Chilean winery Vina Montes. He found that Mendoza was filled with superb vines and dedicated, hardworking people.
Kaiken 2019 Indomito (****1/2) $17 Ruby/purple. Aromas of strawberry and cherry. Fresh red fruit, leather, and mocha. Sweet mouthfeel.
Kaiken 2018 Ultra Cabernet Sauvignon (*****) $20-22 Bright ruby. Aromas of plums, cloves, and dried herbs. Smooth tannins. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown at 1,050 meters/3,150 feet. Sixty thousand bottles were produced.
Kaiken 2019 Malbec IG | Los Chacayes Sur (****) $32 Intense red. Spicey herb aromas. Great concentration of red fruit. Long finish. Grapes grown in the Uco Valley at 1,250 meters/ 4,101 feet. Twelve thousand bottles were made.
Kaiken 2019 Malbec IG| Valle De Canota (****1/2) $32 Dark ruby. Morrel cherry/ cherry lifesaver aromas. Elegant style with soft tannins. Twelve thousand bottles were made.
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Wines
Kaiken 2019 Malbec IG| Los Chacayes Norte (****1/2) $32 Intense ruby. Fresh red fruit and violet aromas. Rustic red fruit, mineral and astringent aromas. Grapes grown in the Uco Valley at 1,250 meters/4,101 feet. Twelve thousand bottles were made.
Kaiken 2018 Mai (“the first”) (****1/2) $65 Violet. Cherry and tobacco aromas. Juicy, velvety, great baked fruit and tannins. Made from 100% old vine Malbec. 12 months aged in oak, 18 months in bottle. Nine thousand, five hundred bottles were made.
KaikenTastedSparkling Wine Brut N.V (****1/2) $18 Bright with golden hues. Aromas of green apples and mineral notes. Refreshing, pleasant almond and toast.
Kaiken 2019 Disobedience by Francis Mallmann (****1/2) $26 Ruby. Red fruit and spicey aromas. Sweet soft and silky tannins with a dark chocolate finish. Blend of 60% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot. Grapes are grown in Altamira, Uco Valley at 1,200 meters/3,940 feet. Sixty thousand bottles were made. This collaboration wine was produced in partnership with Argentinian celebrity chef Francis Mallmann. The label features an upside-down portrait of Mallmann living up to his bad boy image. Currently, Kaiken exports 90% of its wines to 71 countries. The United States now comprises 19% of the export volume. While outside, I noticed a series of banging sounds going off in the distance. Carolina told me Mendoza uses canon blasts to break up clouds and minimize hailstorms.
Kaiken https://www.kaikenwines.com/homeWines:
For more info and menus
Menu StartersHighlights Bacon-Wrapped Prawns Mendoza-Style Empanadas Main Courses Rib-Eye Steak Fish and Chips Eggplant Milanese Ricotta Cavatelli Desserts Grilled Pineapple Figs in Syrup and Brie Cheese
Ramos
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TheFrancisRestaurantGeneralesbyMallmannwineryestateisbestowedwithauniquerestaurantthat celebrity chef Francis Mallmann has created. Chef Mallmann has been featured on the popular Netflix series “Chefs Table” and hosted numerous cooking shows broadcast in Latin America. He has published several cookbooks, and his 884 Restaurante Francis Mallmann in Buenos Aires was awarded a Michelin Star. Chef Mallmann is currently featured on the YesChef streaming platform for cooking that lets anyone watch video lessons taught by internationally renowned Hechefs.owns a private island in Patagonia in the stunning Lago La Plata, where chef Francis Mallmann serves the unexpected: vegetarian cuisine. During the early closures forced by COVID, Chef Mallmann had to shutter his restaurants located in Argentina, France, Chile, Miami, and Patagonia until it was deemed safe to reopen. Wineries in Argentina are considered essential businesses and were allowed to stay open for visitors with special precautions during COVID closures. At first, Chef Mallmann brought a food truck to the winery to help feed the visitors and staff. Balancing a culinary empire with seven restaurants around the world keeps you very busy, and the pandemic put a clamp on just about everything. “He was clearly bored when he began hanging around Kaiken winery,” explained Ana Correas Argerich, who has acted as the primary contact between Chef Mallmann and Kaiken Wines. The relationship with Chef Mallmann has blossomed to the launch of one of Mendoza’s top culinary hot spots. The restaurant uses Mallmann’s signature open flame cooking techniques and a new Bordeaux-style Kaiken wine collaboration called “Disobedience.” We were delighted to meet Chef Francis Mallmann during our visit to Kaiken. He was enthused to tell us that his restaurants in Europe were reopening.
https://www.kaikenwines.com/ramos-generalesvisit:
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Carolina was born in Chile, where she lived until moving to Providence, Rhode Island. After completing high school at the Wheeler School in Providence, Carolina returned to Santiago, Chile, where she graduated from the Manpower Institute as a Bilingual Executive Assistant. This gave her access to the United Nations, specifically the United Nations Development Program (UNDP). After five years working as an accounting assistant, Carolina moved to Mendoza where she married an experienced diplomat in the region. The pair have two children.
MonteleoneNicole
Ana was born into a wine-making family. Her grandfather, Mr. Juan Argerich, was president of the Alta Vista winery. She grew up walking through vineyards. She graduated with honors in business administration. She had a career in banking and senior management at a large candy company in Chile. She spent three months in Europe before joining Kaiken in 2014. In three months, she was elevated to Export Manager, in charge of the entire Latin American market. Six years later in 2020, Ana was appointed Commercial Director. Ana recently obtained her MBA in Business. She lives with her husband and young son, Juan.
Kaiken Wines
Hospitality Coordinator
Carolina received a degree from the ADEN Business School in Mendoza. She has over twenty years of experience in the wine industry, working for Grupo Peñaflor, an extensive wine conglomerate based in Mendoza, and LVMH Moët Hennessy. Carolina is also a certified sommelier by the Argentine School of Sommeliers. In 2020, she joined the Kaiken Wines team, heading the hospitality department.
Spotlight on Kaiken Wines
Commercial Director
One of the things that stood out to me on this trip to Argentina was how many women are working throughout the Argentinean wine industry. It is especially remarkable when you consider how the industry used to be dominated by males.
Carolina Macaya
Nicole came to Kaiken at the young age of thirtyone and is dedicated to expanding Kaiken Wines’ sustainable vine-growing practices.
De Moras
Ana ArgerichCorreas
At Kaiken, this stood out prominently while I was seated at the table tasting wines with three extraordinary professional, well-qualified ladies. I could see how well they worked together and represented their brand. It was apparent that all three loved their jobs and enjoyed the culture of the company Before we went to have dinner, I asked if they wouldn’t mind if I took their portraits. They agreed.
Agronomical Engineer (a.k.a. Vineyard Manager) Ever since she was young, Nicole has shown a great interest in nature and stood up for environmental care. In 2013, she graduated from the School of Agricultural Sciences of the National University of Cuyo with a degree in Agricultural Engineering. A few years back, she worked for two consecutive harvest seasons in different regions of France. Working for large companies allowed her to explore different terroirs and manage vineyards in extreme climate conditions. She learned multiple techniques that she applies today.
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Doña Paula 2021 Riesling (**** ½) $15 Straw yellow. Floral with honey aromas. Apple and pear taste. Fresh with nice acidity. Fermented in stainless steel tanks. This was the first Riesling that we tasted on our trip to Mendoza.
Doña Paula 2019 1350 M.A.S.L Blend (****) $25 Intense purple. Spicey, floral aromas. Red dry fruit aromas. Long finish with extended tannins. 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Malbec, 5% Casavecchia (Italian varietal).
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Doña Paula 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (****) $15 Dark ruby. Spicey green notes with mint and dark fruit aromas. Ripe blueberry taste. High altitude vineyard. Young wine for a tasting.
Doña Paula 2019 1100 M.A.S.L Blend (****) $25 Deep purple. Bright cherry aromas. Floral nose with silky red fruit, leather, and mint. A blend of 60% Malbec, 30% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Grapes were grown in San Carlos, Uco Valley, facing south at 1,110 meters/3,610 feet. Aged for 18 months in oak.
Doña Paula 2019 Selección de Bodega Malbec (*****) $45 Deep violet, black. Blackberry, violets, and herb aromas. Blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, and chalk taste. 100% malbec grown at high altitude (1,350 meters/4,429 feet). Aged 20 months in 50 new French oak barrels.
Doña Paula
Wines Tasted
Doña Paula 2019 Los Indios Parcel Malbec (**** 1/2) $90 Dark ruby. Red and black fruit aromas. Soft spicey, velvety dark cherry, plum and cassis taste. Made from 100% Malbec grown in San Carlos, Uco Valley.
Doña Paula
When we drove up to this large wine estate, it had an industrial feel. There was a security guard at the entrance. He asked to check everyone’s passports and vaccination cards. They were taking COVID seriously. Established in 1997, Doña Paula is considered an estate winery because they produce wine made solely from grapes grown in their own vineyards. They have a total of 750 hectares/1,853 acres under vine. They have three different terraces with unique terroirs.
Terrace 1=East Terrace 2=Hills Terrace 3=Highest altitude (1,000 to 1,600 meters/3,280 to 5,249 feet) At the time of our visit, they had no tourism. They are creating a visitor center to conduct tasting and events soon. We tasted wines outdoors with Doña Paula winemaker Martin Kaiser and brand manager Federico Ontanilla. They presented several platters of delicious charcuterie to accompany the wines.
Doña Paula 2021 Sauvignon Blanc (*****) $15 Straw. Citrus and stone fruit aromas. Citrus, lime, and floral taste.
Doña Paula 2019 Alluvia Malbec (**** 1/2) $90 Deep purple. Blueberry and black plum aromas. Spicy, lush red fruit taste. Produced from grapes grown in the Finca Alluvia in Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley at 1350 meters/4,429 feet. Aged in first, second, and third use oak barrels for one year.
Doña Paula 2021 Chardonnay (*****) $15 Straw/gold. Flowers and tropical fruit aromas. Silky texture, minerality and malo taste. 25% fermented in French oak. Doña Paula 2021 Malbec (**** ½) $15 Dark ruby. Blueberry aromas. Well rounded, bright red fruit taste.
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Paired with 2018 San Pablo Vineyards Malbec ChocolateDessert Dome with Mascarpone
Two enthusiastic employees, winemaker José Galante, and vineyard manager Diego Morales, met us at the front desk. They drove us around the estate and up a long dirt road to the San Pablo estate in the remote upper reaches of Argentina’s Uco Valley.
We stopped to look at the high-altitude vineyard where they were remarkably growing Pinot Noir, a non-typical grape for this part of the world. They also took us to a place near the vines with a six-foot cutout of the soil, resembling a freshly dug grave, revealing the dense rock pack soil that makes up the vineyard’s terroir.
We had a fantastic time, but the temperature began to drop quickly as it became darker. We returned to the posada and went to bed.
We loved having an intimate dinner with Frederike and her team members. Frederike was so down to earth; she asked me to tell a joke! After learning that she pulled her chefs and somm from the restaurant on a Thursday night, we felt like VIPs!
Paired with 2018 San Pablo Vineyards Pinot Noir
Grilled Wild Boar Chorizo Sausages with Creole Sauce, Pea Shoots and Dijon Mustard
We were honored to meet the warm and friendly Frederike Pon, wearing a shawl, joined by two restaurant chefs and a sommelier. The team was preparing the fire for cooking, organizing wine bottles, and popping corks. We were quickly handed ceremonial flutes of sparkling wine, which are not found on the website.
Bodega Salentein
Paired with 2021 San Pablo Sauvignon Blanc
Bodega Salentein
We were excited to return to Bodega Salentein for the first time in sixteen years. The company was founded by Dutch entrepreneur and creative thinker Myndert Pon. Salentein is one of the true pioneers of the modern wineries in the Uco Valley. They are credited for creating a vital wine tourism route, making the Uco Valley one of the best-known wine regions in Latin America. Today Bodega Salentein is owned and run by two of Myndert Pons’s children, Daughter Frederike who now serves as CEO, and her stepbrother Ben. We were honored that Salentein would host us for an overnight stay at their posada with a dinner at their restaurant. The Salentein Posada is in La Pampa Ranch, within the Salentein Space in the Tunuyán department, Uco Valley. The Posada (or Inn) has 16 comfortable rooms, distributed in three houses, between gardens, vineyards, fruit trees, and orchards.
After taking some photos, we climbed back in Jose’s truck and continued driving up the mountain until we reached a clearing with parked cars, open fires, and staff activity.
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Honestly, we were somewhat tired from another busy day of wine tasting. When we checked in, the front desk manager told us that we would be going to dinner with the owner, Ms. Frederike Pon, who was at the winery this week. The posada manager told us to be ready to be picked up in 15 minutes. This gave us enough time to drop off our bags in our room and freshen up.
GoatMenuCheese with Pumpkin
Grilled Filet Mignon with Potatoes and Carrots
Renowned Argentinian architects Bormida & Yanzon designed Salentein winery with a functional gravity flow system in mind, but also created a stylish Greek amphitheater-style cellar room and a Southern Cross formation. We took the elevator down to the cellar, where Federike showed us a piano used for special performances and events. Frederike suggested that I take a photo of her and Jorge jumping for joy in the air. It demonstrated how much fun they were having! Jorge invited us to join him in a private boardroom to taste some wines.
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In the morning, we had breakfast at the winery restaurant with terrific vineyard views. After complementing our thoughtful driver, Gustavo grabbed our luggage and gear and packed them in the trunk of his car. He drove us to the winery visitor center a PR manager met us. We walked from the visitor center to the winery, where Federike was waiting at the entrance with Senior Winemaker Jorge Cabeza. Bodega Salentein Winery is a jaw-dropping building from the outside.
Wines
Salentein also has a formidable collection of art on display at the winery guest center. We highly recommend them as must stop in the Uco Valley! https://www.bodegasalentein.com/en/home.html
SalenteinTasted2021 Reserve Chardonnay Uco Valley (*****) $18 Straw. Tropical fruit and flower aromas. Wonderful taste of green apple with a long finish. 60% barrel fermented, 40% fermented in stainless steel. One hundred and fifty thousand bottles were made.
Salentein 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Uco Valley (*****) $18 Dark ruby. Dark cherry aromas. Taste of lush, ripe cherry, blueberry, and leather. Blend of grapes from two different vineyards. 70% oak aged. Three hundred and fifty thousand bottles were made.
Salentein 2018 Numina Gran Corte Red Blend Uco Valley (****1/2) $30-35 Crimson. Baked stone fruit aromas. Tastes of elegant ripe cheery and flowers. Extended hand work in the vineyards. Blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. One hundred, fifty thousand bottles were made.
Salentein 2020 Numina Malbec Uco Valley (*****) $30 Ruby. Candied fruit aromas. Spicey dark cherry, violet and stone taste. An easy drink wine with great acidity. Two hundred thousand bottles were made.
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Salentein 2018 Paraje Altamira Uco Valley (*****) $30 Ruby. Candied fruit aromas. Spicey dark cherry, violet and stone taste. Made from single vineyard grapes. Ten thousand bottles were made.
Salentein 2021 Reserve Malbec Uco Valley (****1/2) $18 Ruby. Dark cherry and dark fruit aromas. Lush mouthful of cherries and dark fruit. Medium finish. One million, five hundred thousand bottles were made.
Salentein 2018 Primum Uco Valley (****1/2) $55-60 Opaque. Chalky stone fruit aromas. Tastes of spicey fruit, green pepper, and leather. Cabernet Sauvignon that required extensive work in the vineyards. Thirty-five thousand bottles were made.
Salentein 2017 Pyros Vineyards Malbec Block NO 4 Uco Valley (****1/2) $50 Dark ruby. Chalky stone fruit aromas. Tastes of light refreshing cherry, dark fruits, calcareous soil, earth, and minerals. Grown at high altitude in “gentle giant” rocky vineyard that is accessible by a helicopter. Sixteen thousand, nine hundred bottles were made.
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• Las Cuchillas Vineyard - San Pablo, Tunuyán, Uco Valley (40 Lashectares)Cerrilladas Vineyard - Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley (32 hectares)
• Aqua De Las Jarillas Vineyard - Gualtallary, Tupungato, Uco Valley (50 hectares)
Fast forward to 2022, and his eldest son, Sebastian, spearheads the family’s newest modern winery in the Uco Valley. The architecture honors the land around it and the mighty Andes. The construction began in 2013, and the winery was completed and dedicated in 2016. The winery construction was done with natural materials and stones from the land: round, white, and chalky. The building is made with cement, including the outside, the stone walls, and the epoxy-free cement tanks where the wines are made.
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Zuccardi Vineyards:
• Canal Uco Vineyard - IG Paraje Altamira, San Carlos, Uco Valley (57 hectares)
We first met second-generation vintner Jose Zuccardi on our 2006 visit to Argentina. He hosted a busload of U.S. wine writers at his family vineyard estate in Maipo, Mendoza. He guided us through a delightful tasting of his wines and served us an authentic Argentine Asado dinner. That night we learned about tango dancing and how to sip mate.
• Cooling with sunlight
• Los Membrillos Vineyard - IG Paraje Altamira, San Carlos, Uco Valley (37 hectares)
Famillia Zuccardi Uco Valley
• Altitude and longitude
• Diversity of temperature
• Piedra Infinita Vineyards - IG Paraje Altamira, San Carlos, Uco Valley (42 hectares)
Famillia Zuccardi Uco Valley
We have met Sebastian on several occasions over the years at hosted wine tastings and events at the Food and Classic in Aspen. He was usually calm and friendly, while some staff members seemed stressed. It was fantastic that he could spend time with us during the busy harvest Sebastianperiod.ledus outside the winery to some benches behind the winery, where we sat down facing the mammoth Andes mountains. He explained his winery in a nutshell, saying, “everything is about the mountains. We make mountain wines. Water is from the Andes. Soil is glacial. We are mountain people. We grow grapes in a high mountain desert.” Sebastian Zuccardi is a fanatic about alluvial soils. Millions of years ago, glaciers melted, and the movements of alluvial calcar and unique soils moved down from the Andes. Today, there is an enormous diversity of soil within short distances. He has maps showing how diverse the soils are in his vineyards. His focus is on the Valle De Uco and its alluvial movement. He says that the Uco Valley is divided into three parts.
Zuccardi 2020 Concreto Malbec (****1/2) $38 Deep ruby. Aromas of soft, juicy red fruit. Flavors of cherry, chocolate, dry orange, and wet stones. Cold climate with a focus on texture. 100% Malbec. Fermented and aged in concrete vessels. Forty thousand bottles were made.
Zuccardi 2018 Jose Zuccardi Malbec (****1/2) $45 Aromas of dark cherry, calcar, and rocks. Flavors of lush red fruit and spice. Great texture and tannins. It is made from grapes sourced from different vineyards in the Uco Valley and fermented in concrete. Dark burgundy. Fifty thousand bottles were made.
Zuccardi Aluvional Paraje Altamira 2018 Malbec (****1/2) $80 Dark ruby. Aromas of dark cherry and violets. Flavors of creamy sour cherry. 100 % malbec grown at 1,100 meters and aged in concrete. Nine thousand bottles were made.
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Over the past ten years, Sebastien has changed his style of winemaking. “In 2012, I aged 70% of our Malbec in oak barrels. Over the years, I have changed and learned more. I have become more familiar with different vineyards and different places. I am looking for uniqueness. Malbec is overly sensitive to oxygen. I feel that oak barrels put too much oxygen into wine,” he states. Today, he is using very little oak. He prefers to age most of his wines in concrete. His winery has an extensive collection of egg-shaped, gravity-fed, epoxy-free concrete tanks, and large, neutral oak fermenting tanks. The winery is modern and designed from the outside in. Wines
ZuccardiTasted2020 Fossil Chardonnay IG San Pablo (*****) $60 Yellow/gold. Creamy flowers, stone, and elegant salinity aromas. Flavors of apple, almond, and fresh fruit. Long finish. 70% fermented in concrete, 30% in unroasted French oak barrels. A delicious cold climate chardonnay! Three thousand, five hundred bottles were made.
Zuccardi was founded in 1963 by Sebastian’s Grandfather, Alberto Zuccardi. Just like many other Argentina immigrants, the family has Italian roots. I am sure that Alberto would never have predicted that his son Jose and his grandson Sebastian would build the company to the levels of excellence that they are achieving today. They have 350 hectares under the vine and produce 1.5 million bottles of high-quality wine annually.
Zuccardi Aluvional Gualtallary 2018 Malbec (*****) $80 Deep ruby. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, and cocoa. Flavors of cherry and blueberry. Malbec is grown at 1,350 meters. One of the finest malbecs tasted this year! Nine thousand bottles were made.
Winemaking Evolution:
Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal 2018 Malbec (*****) $150 Deep ruby. Aromas of olives, berry, menthol, and thyme. Flavors of pure, ripe red fruit. Superb long finish and texture. They are made from select lots of grapes (4-6) from a 0.51-hectare vineyard. Less than six thousand bottles were produced. We were honored to spend several morning hours with Sebastien. Witnessing his natural passion for the places and wines he crafts from them was exciting. Several of his wines have gained worldwide acclaim (100 points) from the most respected wine critics on the Familiaplanet.
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WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL120 Vol. 1 2022 Feature : Mighty Mendoza The “Piedra Infinita” TheRestaurantrestaurantislocatedontheground floor of the winery, offering idyllic views of the Andes. It provides a four-course menu made with regional products. It showcases a delicate gourmet expression paired with Zuccardi wines. We were jazzed that Sebastien could join us for lunch.
Argentina Asado consists of grilled steak, ribs, and chorizo
Goat Cheese with beets
Paired with Zuccardi 2020 Concreto Malbec
Freshly baked bread and olive oil
We loved freshly baked bread paired with olive oil made by Sebastien’s brother Miguel with Zuccardi Family Varietal Olive Oil. He is as committed as Sebastian to developing the region’s best terroir-focused olive oil.
Paired with Zuccardi Malbec and Cabernet Franc Peaches and Ice Cream with Carrot Sauce
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Paired with Zuccardi Late Harvest Torrontes Dessert Wine https://zuccardiwines.com
Paired with Zuccardi Alberino Eggplant with tomato sauce and Béchamel cheese cooked in a clay oven
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Bodega Rolland by Michel Rolland
This winery is owned by world-renowned enologist and winemaker Michel Rolland, who is often referred to as the “flying winemaker.” Michel consults with hundreds of wine producers around the world. He states that he tastes 40,000 wines annually, which translates to 780 wines per week! He has a reputation for having the best tastebuds and expert wine blending skills on the planet.
The winery was built in 2009 and made its first wines a year later. It is in Vista Flores-Tunyan, in the heart of the desirable Uco Valley district, and close to the Andes. The facility is state of the art, with the best, most modern equipment suitable for producing premium wine. They ferment in stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, and cement vessels.
In 2021, I visited Saint-Émilion and dined at a restaurant in Pomerol down the street from his company headquarters. So, to claim that I am enamored with Michel Rolland is an understatement. Michel, his wife Dany, and their two daughters own the wine estate.
In 2000, I met Michel briefly at the Seafood Barge Restaurant in Southold, Long Island, when he was having lunch with two winemakers from Galluccio Family Winery. This winery estate is no longer in operation.
•Malbec •Cabernet Franc •Merlot •Pinot Noir •Cabernet Sauvignon •Syrah •Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc
Bodega Rolland Mendoza has two vineyards. Mariflor has 86 hectares planted. It is 1,100 meters above sea level. There are eight varieties grown.
Val de Flores has only 10 hectares of old vine Malbec that is around seventy years old. We visited the winery and met with Rodolfo Vallebella, Winemaker and Director. After a quick tour of the production facility, Rodolfo invited us upstairs for a private tasting.
Feature : Mighty Mendoza
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Wines MariflorTasted2020 Sauvignon Blanc (*****) $26.99 Straw. Aromas of passion fruit and tropical pink fruits. Lovely tastes of citrus, lemon, and kiwi. Manual harvest. They were fermented in egg concrete tanks. Ten thousand bottles were made. Mariflor 2019 Pinot Noir (****1/2) $26.99 Ruby. Aromas of cherry and violet. Lush, spicy red fruit taste. 14 months aging in French oak barrels (1/2 new oak, 1/2 one-yearold).Fifteen thousand bottles were made. Mariflor 2020 Merlot (****1/2) $26.99 Dark ruby. Aromas of red fruit and blueberry. Fruit forward, spicey taste. Great texture and elegance. 14 months aging in French oak barrels (1/2 new oak, 1/2 one-year-old). Five thousand bottles were made. Mariflor 2019 Malbec (*****) $26.99 Burgundy. Aromas of dry fruit, flowers, and sandstone. Lush, juicy baked cherry taste. 14 months aging in French oak barrels (one-year-old). Mariflor 2019 Cabernet Franc (****1/2) $26.99 Dark ruby. Aromas of earthy, elegant fruit. Dark fruit and leather taste. 15-18 months in French oak barrels. Fifteen thousand bottles were made. Mariflor 2019 Blend (****1/2) $34.99 Dark crimson. Aromas of baked red fruits with violet. Dark sour cherry and blueberry taste. Blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Malbec. Thirteen thousand, six hundred bottles were made. Val de Flores 2018 Malbec (****1/2) $69.99 Opaque. Jamy dark fruit and mineral aromas. Lush, spicy fruit with granite taste. Long finish. They are made from grapes from a 70-year-old vineyard. Thirty thousand bottles were made. After the tasting, Rodolfo led us outside to the back of the winery, where a new supply of harvested Sauvignon Blanc grapes had just arrived. Harvest had just started to ramp up. https://www.bodegarolland.com/
We had the pleasure of staying one night at the idyllic property. After checking into our room, we visited the hotel restaurant for a beautiful dinner and tried some glasses of the estate wines. That night, our room had a terrific sunset view of the vineyards and a couple riding horses. After breakfast, we drove the short distance to the winery in the morning. We met managing partner Juan Tonconogy and a newly appointed winemaker.
•Biking •Hiking •Horseback riding •Tennis •Archery •Wine tasting •Wine blending •Cooking
VineyardsUco& Wine FamedResortArgentinaarchitect
A modernistic winery, boutique hotel, three villas in the vineyards, a restaurant, and spa make Casa De Uco an ultimate wine country destination. The buildings are designed in a modern and elegant style. There are so many things that guests can do at the property. class
Casa de
Casa De Uco produces 80,000 bottles per year. The vineyards are transitioning to organic by 2023. They sell 15% through their restaurant; the rest of the production is sold in Argentina and exported to twelve countries. You can find some wines in the United States.
Feature : Mighty Mendoza
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Alberto Tonconogy and his family started Casa De Uco Vineyards in 2009. The vineyards are in the prestigious Uco Valley at 1,300 meters/4,265 feet above sea level. There are 70 hectares under vine, mostly planted with Malbec.
•Spa treatments •Gourmet dining
Casa De Uco 2020 Petit Verdot (****1/2) $25 Dark burgundy/opaque. Aromas of blackberry and stone fruit. Cherry, blueberry, and menthol taste. Two thousand bottles were made.
Casa De Uco 2018 Flora Fauna Malbec (****1/2) $50 Dark burgundy. Aromas of dark fruits, cassis, violet, and cocoa. Taste of dark fruit, spicey, calcar, and salinity. Elegant with an excellent finish. It was aged for 18 months in neutral oak. Three thousand bottles were made. We had a wonderful lunch with Casa De Uco’s PR Manager. She told us that Casa De Uco is offering vineyard lots for private ownership. People may purchase their own vineyard rows or lots. Casa De Uco can support managing the vines, harvesting the grapes, and producing wine to the owners’ specifications. The investment cost ranges from $51,000 to $191,000, depending on the size of the lot. They are also selling new homes that will be custom built (designs are set).
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Casa De Uco 2020 Casa De Blancs (****1/2) $20 Gold straw. Floral, bright fruit aromas. Melon and lime taste. This is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Torrontes. Ten thousand bottles were made—screw cap closure.
Wines Tasted
Casa De Uco 2020 Cabernet Franc (*****) $20 Dark Ruby. Stone fruit and dry candy aromas. Dark cherry, violet, spicey black fruit taste. They are made from 100% organic Cabernet Franc grapes. Five thousand bottles were made.
https://www.casadeuco.com/en/home-en/
Tourism in this once rural region rivals Napa, Sonoma, and Long Island. The exchange rate has recently had a significant dip in the dollar’s favor too! highly recommend visiting. can’t wait to return!
We
Mendoza winemakers have had to keep up with new trends and wine-making techniques. Most importantly, the smartest winemakers have taken geology seriously, with a massive uptick in quality.
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CD Feature : Mighty Mendoza
Summary and Observations
We
The Mendoza wine industry excels on many levels! They now produce 80% of all the wine made in Argentina. The vintners have learned a lot and diversified their premium wine range. Cabernet Franc is the second-best grape (after Malbec) to grow in this high-altitude area. Sauvignon Blanc has taken the number one slot for white wines, pushing Torrontes to the sideline.
Colorado is home to hundreds of passionate winemakers whose amazing wineries, cellars and tasting rooms span grand Western landscapes, the Plains, and the entire Front Range. With over 165 wineries scattered throughout our state, boasting varieties ranging from complex Cabernets to crisp Rieslings, finding a label you love is easy no matter where your adventures take you. Discover them all and show your support for our local winemakers at THISISCOLORADOWINE.COMThisIsColoradoWine.com.
THIS COLORADOISWINE
WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL JOINSWE! Become a specialist and enhance your knowledge and career. Certified Specialist of Spirits Test from Home or via Testing Center Study Guides through Amazon Optional Online Course Digital Badges & Certificates Member Discounts Enhancing Spirits and Wine Education Worldwide! SWE
Santa Lucia Highlands
Parting Shots
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Our next issue takes us to Santa Lucia Highlands, on the central coast of California. The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is part of the western mountains of the Salinas Valley. This range faces east, receiving the gentle morning sunshine. This unique cold-climate region is 18 miles long and contains just 22,000 acres of planted vineyards. Morning fog and afternoon winds help make this region the perfect area for growing premium quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Syrah. The hardworking SLH vintners are passionate artisans who take no shortcuts in striving to produce the best fruit that vintners may reap from their land.
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