Wine Country International 2023 Issue V3 by Wine Country Network, Inc

Barolo, Italy Land of hills, sophisticated wines and cuisine

Slow Food Cheese 2023 Grape Expectations: Riesling

The World’s Most Underappreciated Wine

YOUR ATTITUDE-FREE PASSPORT TO GREAT WINE & DELICIOUS FOOD

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Tasting at Marchesi di Barolo, Christopher J Davies (L), Valentina Abbona (C), Darcy Davies (R).

Editors Letter Creating this issue was a true eye-opener. We explored several of Italy’s food and wine hot spots. Twenty-four hours in Parma was just scraping the tip of the iceberg. A good visit to Parma should last two or three days. This way, you can explore museums and visit the people and places that make the famous Parma ham, Prosciutto di Parma, and the rare and less common Culatello. Of course, several extra days would allow you to delve into the world-respected King of Formaggio, Parmesan Reggiano. Three days in Bra, in Piedmont, taught us that the Slow Food movement is about how well the food chain can unite. The experiences and discoveries visiting hundreds of vendors at Cheese were as mind-boggling as they were delicious. The inclusive open-door policy of Slow Food garnered immense support for two Ukrainian farmers and cheese makers whose lives were profoundly affected by Putin’s war. Both were able to relocate to safer areas (in Ukraine and Italy). They resumed crafting their artisanal cheese production, and received the coveted Slow Cheese Award for courageously resisting risk and isolation. Our five-day stay in the town of Barolo was enchanting and Disneyesque, and we had a bird’s eye view of the vines and witnessed some harvest activities in real-time. Our visit to Marchesi di Barolo, the birthplace of Barolo wine, was greeted by the lovely, friendly, and sweet Anna and Valentina Abbona, Mother and Daughter owners of the historic estate. We also met and were fed quite deliciously by Michelin-starred chefs and culinarians. The cuisine in Piedmont is hearty and wine friendly. Speaking of wine, this issue features Elizabeth Woessner’s captivating Grape Expectations article on Riesling. If your preference is bone dry, dry, or semi-sweet, you will find a Riesling that suits your palate and pairs well with your cuisine. Bourbon and whiskey lovers will delight at the list of the top winners of the 2023 North American Bourbon and Whiskey Competition. Cheers! CD

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Contents Wine Country International ® Magazine Christopher J. Davies, Co-Founder, Editor & Publisher Darcy R. Davies, Co-Founder & Design Director Elizabeth Woesner Copy and Features Editor Valentina Phillips Copy Editor and Columnist Lance Berelowitz DipWSET Contributor Director of Photography, Christopher J. Davies Contributing Editors: Blair Bowman, Michael Long and Larry Wilcox Advertising, Sponsorship: info@winecountrynetwork.com ads@winecountryinternational.com

EDITORS LETTER Pages 3

A publication of Wine Country Network, Inc. Christopher J. Davies, Chairman & CEO, Co-Founder Darcy Davies, President & Co-Founder

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Wine Country Network, Inc. 390 Interlocken Crescent, Suite 350, Broomfield, CO 80021 Tel. 303-665-0855 www.winecountrynetwork.com e-mail: info@winecountrynetwork.com Address editorial inquiries to cdavies@winecountrynetwork.com

Pages 50-67 Slow Food Cheese 2023

IN MEMORIAM Pages 6

Mel and Janie Master

Wine Country International Online: www.winecountryinternational.com Twitter: @vinotasting Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/winecountryinternational/ Wine Country International Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs, or other works. All letters sent to Wine Country Network will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes. Contents © 2023 by Wine Country Network, Inc. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or part without the written permission of the publisher. All photography in this publication, unless otherwise noted is copyrighted by Christopher J. Davies, all rights reserved. www.daviesphotos.com

24 HOURS... Pages 8-11 Parma

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RAMBLE ABOUT Page 14-21 Okanagan Valley

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Pages 22-30 Riesling

SPIRITED CHAT Pages 12-13 North American Bourbon & Whiskey Competition

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COVER FEATURE: BAROLO Pages 32-48

PARTING SHOTS Page 68 Santa Lucia Highlands

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IN MEMORIAM Eventually, the pull of the wine business brought the Masters back to France, where in 1992, he introduced a line of varietal wines from the Languedoc under the label “Les Jamelles” (Janie and Mel-get it?). They sold that label and then launched the successful Tortoise Creek wines, which are still sold by Master Wines today. In 1995, Mel, Janie, and their family moved to Denver to open Mel’s Bar and Grill, which proved to be an iconic Denver restaurant for the next decade and would spawn the careers of many chefs and sommeliers who have since shaped the Denver restaurant scene. While Mel often took the spotlight as the company’s spokesman, there is no question that Mel and Janie were true partners in work and in life. Together, they nurtured and mentored countless young people who passed through the doors of their restaurant and wine businesses. In 2006, they were awarded the Silver Spoon Award for services to the wine and food industry.

Remembering Mel and Janie Master

We were all richer for having known them. Story by Elizabeth Woessner Photo courtesy of Charlie Master

On September 2 at Pegasos, a voluntary assisted dying facility in Basel, Switzerland, the world lost two of the most memorable figures in the world of food and wine. Mel and Janie passed away as they had lived for almost 70 years – together in love and in partnership. While theirs is undoubtedly a love story, it is not simply a story of their incredible love for each other but the love they shared with everyone they touched, mentoring and guiding countless people on their career journey in the wine and hospitality business. Mel and Janie met as children and grew up together in England. They married in 1964, still practically children at age 20 and 19. Together, they embarked on a global adventure of food and wine that spanned both decades and continents. Mel honed his wine skills at establishments such as Sandeman in Porto, Portugal, Château Palmer in Bordeaux, and Eduard Delaunay in Burgundy. In 1970, they founded a company called Master Wine, designed to highlight small estates and great value wines to the United States from France. During that period, he also introduced the wines of Georges Duboeuf to the American public and co-authored a book, which I proudly own, called “The Wines of the Côtes du Rhône.” By 1980, the couple had moved to the United States, where Mel took on the task of opening, marketing, and selling the wines from a new winery in Sonoma called Jordan Winery, and what a success it was. Then on to New York City, where, in partnership with Chef Jonathan Waxman, they opened Jams Restaurant, named, of course, for Janie and Mel. As a recent college graduate in the early 80s, I loved Jams and went as often as possible. Much later, when Mel and I met in Denver, we would reminisce about how exciting the New York restaurant scene was then.

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Before their death, a social media page was created to allow friends and family the opportunity to say goodbye and to thank Mel and Janie for all they had done. The comments therein are a true testament to their ever-lasting legacy. The entire page is filled with words of love and appreciation…. “...your extraordinary and magnificent love and lust for life.” “You had an enormous impact on our lives.” “You had a magic ability to make everyone feel like the most important person in the room.” “You celebrated and elevated other people’s successes and lives.” “Your spotlight made everyone feel warm and invited.” “You changed the course of my life.” Mel’s final words on the page … “I am deeply humbled and touched by the amazing outpouring of love, understanding, and compassion from everyone about our decision and new adventure. All I can say is that each and every one of you has made us better people and enriched our lives, and for that, we thank and adore you all. You’re always in our hearts now and forever.” Their story is a tale of the profound love that they had for one another, as well as the love they extended to all those they came across. Through their mentorship and guidance, they impacted so many others in the wine and hospitality industry. Even in death, they gave a vital gift to those they loved: the opportunity to say goodbye, to honor them, to mourn them, and to express their love for them. They will be deeply missed, but never forgotten as they will live on in the lives and careers of the countless people they have touched.

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TRAVEL SHOWCASE

Perfect for the frequent flyer

The Premium way of traveling Vol. 3 202 3

Saga Premium makes flying comfortable with priority boarding, gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, lounge access, and more. Enjoy the benefits.

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24 HOURS IN...

24 Hours in Parma, Italy

Story and photography by Christopher Davies

We arrived at Malpensa International Airport in Milan on the 11th of September 2023. We picked up our rental car from Sicily by Car. It was a practically brand-new Volkswagen SUV. This auto rental company is the most highly rated car rental company serving Milan’s International Airport, with 8.8 out of 10 stars. The all-inclusive (including insurance) rental rate for a VW Trigo (mid-size) automatic for ten days was €800.00/ €80 per day. The drive from Milan to Parma was almost 3 hours, with a stop at the Autogrill in Milan. Travelers can find these well-situated restaurants with café and convenience stores alongside Italy’s main autostrada. They are clean and ideal for taking a bathroom break and grabbing a snack. As we neared the exit for Parma, we passed a massive Barilla pasta facility. Parma is one of Italy’s most significant culinary centers. It is famous for producing Parma ham, Prosciutto, Culatello, and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. This walled-in university city is known for its Romanesque architecture. It has 198,000 inhabitants, which makes Parma the second most populated city in Emilia-Romagna, next to Bologna.

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24 HOURS IN... Where to Stay: Hotel Verdi is an elegant 4-star boutique hotel converted from an Art Nouveau villa. The hotel is across the street from the beautiful Ducal Park and just a twenty-minute walk to Parma’s Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral, a nine-hundred-year-old place of art, history, and sacredness. The location was super convenient. Our hotel was quaint and welldecorated with art. The twenty rooms were recently renovated and had air conditioning and Wi-Fi. $141, breakfast included. They have attentive staff and gated parking, €10.00 per night. Hotel Verdi, Parma https://www.hotelverdi.it/

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24 HOURS IN... Where to Eat: Our hotel concierge recommended several restaurants that were within the walled-in town. Ristorante La Filoma We decided to have dinner at Ristorante La Filoma, Parma, which is in the city center down several narrow streets, a half mile from the entrance of the walled city. It claims to produce the best quality cuisine in the oldest restaurant in Parma and is located inside a historic 17th-century building. The staff are welcoming and eager to describe their signature dishes. The meat and cheese-laden cuisine, wines, and service were outstanding. •

Culatello di Zibello DOP and Parmigiano Reggiano €22.00

This cut of meat is produced by hand and is limited to 50,000 pieces per year, making it more expensive than Prosciutto. Culatello di Zibello is only made in the winter in a very restricted area. “Protected Designation of Origin” PDO version, protected by a particular Consortium and made only in select Parma municipalities near the river Po. Our platter featured Parma Prosciutto ham and Culatello di Zibello, shaved/ sliced thin, giving the meat a unique texture. We also tried Fried cake (puffy hollow bread shaped the size of ravioli) •

Parmigiano Reggiano flan with sautéed porcini mushrooms and raw ham crown €15.00

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Parmesan herb tortelli €15.00

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Rosa di Parma (veal fillet) €29.00

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Stuffed with raw DOP, Parmigiano Reggiano, and black truffle.

Wines by the glass: Vermentino from Emilia-Romagna €11.00 Bottle: 2020 Rosso di Montalcino €29.00 Ristorante La Filoma- 4.5 Stars Borgo XX Marzo, 15, 43121 Parma PR Hours: Opens at noon for lunch or dinner. Menu: ristorantelafiloma.it info@lafiloma.it The following day, we decided to walk through the park into town as it was the shortest, most direct path to the porta entrance into the historic center.

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24 HOURS IN... Lunch Ristorante La Greppia- Excellent, farm-fresh, inspired cuisine We stumbled across this famous restaurant on Parma’s oldest medieval street, Strada Giuseppe Garibaldi. We were pleasantly surprised with the cooking and later learned that La Greppia is included in the Michelin guide. We enjoyed Tagliolini, Pumpkin, Honey Risotto, and a bottle of Lamoretti Colli di Parma Sauvignon from Emilia-Romagna. €59 Ristorante La Greppia http://www.ristorantelagreppia.axeleroweb.it/ Our schedule was tight as we were traveling to Bologna and then Piedmont to attend Slow Food Cheese. So, sadly, we did not stay long enough to experience the main attractions that Parma boasts. It has 8 museums Parma boasts that it has eight food museums, a bunch of butcher shops, and meat and cheese stores that offer the best foods from the Parma hit parade. Food Valley Travel and Leisure has been operating tours for twenty years. They have a variety of regional packages (for groups) starting at $225 per person.

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SPIRITED CHAT

2023 North American Bourbon and Whiskey Competition “Best of The Best” Top Winners Featured in New Orleans The 9th Annual North American Bourbon and Whiskey Competition occurred in Denver in early July. Approximately one hundred and sixty Bourbon and Whiskeys were judged double-blind by a team of twelve highly experienced, certified spirits judges. Story and photos by Christopher J Davies

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SPIRITED CHAT Wine Country Network decided to return to New Orleans last month, where it hosted a VIP Trade & Media tasting on Monday, July 24th, at the historic Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans’s French Quarter. The tasting event showcased thirty-two top-scored winners paired with typical Louisiana seafood. The explosive growth of Bourbon and Whiskey in America has led to supply shortages and allocations of popular products. This tasting offered attendees the opportunity to taste rare and hard-to-find whiskey. More than sixty-five trade, media, and VIP enthusiasts attended to taste the 2023 top winners.

“Best of Show” First Place Northwest Spirit

96 points/ Double Gold Savor Spear Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Non-Kentucky Bourbon, Finished with a White Oak Stave. Aged 5 years, 51.5% AbV. “Best of Show” Second Place BHAKTA 2013 Bourbon, 2013 Vintage

97 points/ Double Gold Aged 9.5 years, 50.3% AbV

“Best of Show” Third Place Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Cask Strength Barrel #10081

96 points/ Double Gold Aged 4 years, 70% AbV

Double Gold Winners: Garrison Brothers Balmorhea

95 points King’s Family Distillery Wheated Bourbon

95 points Col. E.H. Taylor Jr. Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

97 points Col. E. H. Taylor, Jr. Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

96 points Weller Full Proof

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Products Showcased: Gold Medal Winners:

Great Jones-Great Jones Rye 92 points

Brother Justus American Single Malt Cold-Peated Whiskey 94 points

Tin Cup 10-Year-Old Straight Bourbon 92 points

Coors Five Trail Blended American Whiskey Blend 002 91 points Copper Cane Wines & Spirits Gryphon & Grain Straight Rye Whiskey 91 points Copper Sky Distillery Copper Accord Fox Grove American Blended Whiskey 93 points Fat Labrador Distillers Whiskey Town 3-Year-Old Straight Bourbon 91 points FatHouse Bacon Fat Flavored Whiskey 92 points Hinterhaus Distilling American Single Malt Whiskey “Discovery” 91 points King’s Family Distillery Toasted Ryeconic 93 points Ole Smoky Whiskey Salty Watermelon 91 points Ole Smoky Distillery James Ownby Reserve Straight Bourbon 91 points Stranahan’s Diamond Peak American Single Malt Whiskey 91 points

RD1 Spirits Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey 91 points Robinson Hill USA-Good Trouble Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey 92 points A. Smith Bowman-Bowman Brothers Small Batch 93 points Buffalo Trace Distillery Bourbon Cream Liqueur 92 points Eagle Rare 17-Year-Old 92 points Elmer T. Lee Single Barrel Bourbon 91 points Seagram’s VO Gold 92 points Uncle Nearest 1884 Small Batch Whiskey 93 points Uncle Nearest Uncut and Unfiltered Straight Rye Whiskey Batch 001 92 points Virginia Distillery Company-Courage & Conviction Sherry Cask Whisky 92 points Virginia Distillery Company-Courage & Conviction Cuvée Single Cask Whisky 93 points

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RAMBLE ABOUT

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RAMBLE ABOUT

Old and New in the Okanagan Valley Story by Lance Berelowitz Photos courtesy of Lance Berelowitz & Wines of British Columbia Crossing from the United States into British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley at the border town of Osoyoos feels more like entering Mexico than Canada. This is the northern tip of the continental Sonoran Desert, complete with sagebrush grasslands, cacti, and rattlesnakes. The Okanagan, a narrow valley with several glacial lakes framed by mountains, stretches some 250 km (155 miles) north from the US border. And while this southernmost sector is hot and dry, its northernmost portion, at over 50º North latitude, is a much cooler-climate wine region. The Okanagan Valley is Canada’s premier wine region, producing award-winning wines of all types and price points. High natural acidity and vibrant freshness are key differentiators of wines from the Okanagan Valley, with its long sunshine hours, high diurnal range, and cool, dry autumns. More than 200 wineries occupy the bench lands on either side of the valley floor.

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RAMBLE ABOUT GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION (GI)

OKANAGAN VALLEY SUB-GI GROWING AREA

Okanagan Lake

Vernon

LAKE COUNTRY Lake Country

Kelowna

EAST KELOWNA SLOPES

West Kelowna Peachland

SOUTH KELOWNA SLOPES

SUMMERLAND VALLEYS Summerland

NARAMATA BENCH

SUMMERLAND BENCH SUMMERLAND LAKEFRONT

Penticton

SKAHA BENCH OKANAGAN FALLS

Keremeos Cawston

Oliver

GOLDEN MILE BENCH GOLDEN MILE SLOPES Osoyoos Lake

CANADA

Osoyoos

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Okanagan Valley Appellations New vineyards are being developed on optimum sites where vines have never before been planted, reflecting the ongoing intensive exploration of the valley’s different terroirs. Eleven wine-growing appellations (called SubGeographical Indications or sub-GIs, comparable to American Viticultural Areas) have been approved in the valley, with six new appellations added in the last year alone. The new sub-GIs are Summerland Valleys, Summerland Lakefront, Summerland Bench, East Kelowna Slopes, South Kelowna Slopes, and Lake Country. They join five previously designated sub-GIs: Golden Mile Bench, Golden Mile Slopes, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Falls, and Skaha Bench. More are on their way. The Okanagan wine region is a work in progress. This review focuses on a few favorite wineries in the southern part of the Okanagan Valley, heading from south to north. Map & Photo Courtesy: Wines of British Columbia

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RAMBLE ABOUT

La Stella Winery

Photo credit: Lance Berelowitz

The first wine region you encounter is around Osoyoos Lake, with vineyards on both sides of the lake. While this area has yet to achieve official appellation status, it can’t be far off. Our first stop is La Stella Winery overlooking the lake, just 8 km (5 miles) north of the border. The team here practices fully organic, low-intervention winemaking, with a wine range that celebrates the Italian concept of La Dolce Vita. The delicious wines include whites, reds, and a rosato. My top pick would be Classico d’Osoyoos, a single vineyard Sangiovese-based red blend.

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RAMBLE ABOUT Burrowing Owl Head north up Highway 97, turn right on Road 22 and cross over to the east side of the valley, which brings you to another appellation in the making, the Black Sage Bench. Here on these sunny southwest-facing bench-lands are several top-rated estates including Burrowing Owl, Black Hills, and high profile newcomer Phantom Creek. This terroir is a top contender to be the next designated sub-GI.

Photo credit: Lance Berelowitz

Burrowing Owl is one of BC’s leading wineries and has a deep commitment to environmental and ecological sustainability, including the conservation of the endangered small owl for which it is named. In addition to the tasting room and wine shop, there is the excellent Sonora Room Restaurant and a Guest House with ten spacious rooms with fireplaces and private decks overlooking the outdoor pool that I highly recommend as a base in the southern Okanagan. Their red wines are all top-class Cabernets Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Syrah. My pick would be the Merlot as it is one of the best in North America.

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RAMBLE ABOUT

Black Hills Estate Black Hills Estate, just up the road, is another top-rated winery with an exceptional indoor-outdoor tasting facility offering wine flights and light food. The estate’s vineyards occupy one of Canada’s hottest, driest, and sunniest sites, with more sunlight hours than Napa Valley in the key summer growing months. The vineyards’ west-facing aspect experience exceptional diurnal temperature ranges, with daytime heat followed by cool nights that retain acidity and result in intensely flavorful grapes. This is primarily red wine territory, and the flagship red blend Nota Bene is the standout wine. Vol. 3 202 3

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RAMBLE ABOUT

Culmina

Crossing back to the west side of the valley, you’ll find a string of wineries perched on the Golden Mile Bench, the Okanagan’s first sub-GI (created in 2015), with vineyards facing southeast. Top winery choices to visit include Culmina and Hester Creek.

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Photo credit: Lance Berelowitz

Culmina was the lifelong dream of the locally renowned Triggs wine family to purchase raw land and develop a boutique winery from scratch, which they began in 2007. Since acquired by Arterra Wines Canada, Culmina sits at the top of the Golden Mile Bench overlooking the southern Okanagan, with some of the highest altitude vineyards in the valley. Don’t miss their elegant, textured Decora Riesling and outstanding Unicus Grüner Veltliner, the latter being the Okanagan’s first. Vol. 3 202 3

RAMBLE ABOUT

Hester Creek Hester Creek is a well-established Golden Mile Bench winery with some of the Okanagan’s oldest vitis vinifera vines spread across 115 acres of welldraining, alluvial fan soil on a west-toeast sloping bench. Its fabulous guest facilities include the acclaimed Terrafina Restaurant and accommodation in six deluxe Villa Suites overlooking the vineyards, making it the perfect base from which to explore the southern Okanagan.

Photo credit: Lance Berelowitz

This wine route through the southern Okanagan barely scrapes the surface of this diverse, extensive wine region. Subsequent trips could take in the more central and northern areas around Penticton, Summerland, Kelowna, and Lake Country.

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

Riesling The World’s Most Underappreciated Wine By Elizabeth Woessner, Grape Expectations Columnist

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

If you were asked what the world’s most expensive age-worthy white wine is, most of you would think White Burgundy, and you would be mostly correct. Did you know, however, that German Riesling can easily rival and sometimes outperform white Burgundy in both ageablility and expense? Sommeliers and wine professionals love Riesling because it produces complex, food-friendly wines that beautifully reflect their terroir. Regrettably, in the United States, many consumers overlook this exquisite wine, assuming it to be overly sweet and, therefore, inferior. During the 1960s and 1970s, super-sweet Riesling blends were extremely popular in the United States. But as the consumer’s palate evolved, the reputation of Riesling did not. Riesling got a bad rap back then, and it has unfortunately stuck. In truth, Riesling can be produced in a myriad of styles, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. Let’s take a deeper look at this magnificently versatile and delightful wine and see if I can persuade you to give Riesling another try.

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Riesling is resistant to cold temperatures, so it can stay on the vine longer and develop more intense aromas and flavors without losing its natural acidity. What makes Riesling genuinely exceptional is its ability to provide winemakers with a multitude of options both in the vineyard and in the winery, enabling them to create an array of extraordinary wine styles from the very same vineyard. Grapes are harvested several times a season to control the balance of sweetness and acidity. If grapes are left on the vine, they can develop Botrytis, a gray fungus known as ‘noble rot.’ This fungus removes water from the grapes, which increases the sugar concentration and helps produce sweet dessert wines. Sugars can also be concentrated by leaving the grapes to freeze in the vineyard, offering another method for winemakers to craft truly magnificent dessert wines. Much like Pinot Noir, Riesling has an uncanny ability to reflect the terroir where it was grown. That may be why so many wine geeks adore this grape. When

you compare the wines side by side, you will start to distinguish the unique styles and taste characteristics of the various regions where it is grown. Riesling’s spiritual homeland is unquestionably Germany, where it accounts for nearly 25% of all planted grapes. Germany produces around 40% of the world’s Riesling. It is grown in various styles in all 13 German wine regions. Unsurprisingly, everything you need to know about a German wine can be found on the label. Unfortunately, you may need a master’s degree to decipher it. Don’t worry if German wine labels seem intimidating and confusing to you; we have created a simple chart of the terms on the label and their significance for the wine inside the bottle. Riesling in Germany typically has a light to medium body, lower alcohol content, remarkable acidity, and an abundance of aromatic stone fruit and citrus flavors. There are five primary regions in Germany that produce the best Riesling. The cool, sunny summers and mild winters make the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region Vol. 3 202 3

“

Photo Credit: Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

My great-grandfather Konstantin Frank was the first to pioneer

Riesling here in the eastern United States with our first planting in 195 8. Since then, our Riesling program has increased to 8

different styles from traditional method sparkling, single-vineyard expressions to botr ytis desser t styles. We love the versatility of this grape, and it works so well in our cool climate here in the Finger Lakes. Riesling is one of the most transparent grape varieties and shines with flavors of lime, mineral and stone fruit when it’s grown on our glacial soils. We are proud to be a pioneering producer of Riesling in America’s premier cool climate

an ideal area for Riesling. The wines here are highly aromatic, with mineral-rich flavors and bright citrus acidity. Grapes in the Nahe region are grown on steep slopes by the Nahe River. The wines they produce are slightly riper than those from the Mosel but still have a noticeable acidity. Following the Rhine River, you will find the regions of Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Pfalz, where the warmer climate contributes to riper and fuller-bodied Rieslings with distinctive aromas and flavors of ripe peach. On the other side of the Rhine basin lies Alsace, France, equally renowned for its high-quality Riesling wines. Vol. 3 202 3

”

AVA of the Finger Lakes!

Meagan Frank Vice President

Alsace’s high-altitude vineyards boast a remarkable variety of geological soils that help the late-ripening grape fully develop. Alsace’s Rieslings have a less floral nose than German Rieslings. They are known for being aromatic and full-bodied, with moderate alcohol and high acidity. They typically have citrus and stone fruit flavors, often with a stony finish.

wines that can age well. Elsewhere in Europe, Riesling is grown in Northern Italy, Slovenia, Hungary, the Czech Republic, and Moravia.

In Austria, Riesling represents 16% of grapes planted; most are vinified to produce lean, dry, low alcohol, minerally wines. The Grand Cru vineyards along the Mosel River in the Wachau and its neighboring Kamptal and Kremstal regions can produce elegant, complex

The New World has quickly embraced this versatile grape to make distinct wines that reflect the specific growing conditions of each region. Australia’s Eden Valley and Clare Valley are known for producing exceptional Riesling wines that age well. Over time, the aromas of lime, lemon, and grapefruit in these wines transform into toast, honey, and petrol, creating a unique style. The wines are unoaked, dry, or off-dry with very high acidity.

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS

A G u i de to G er m a n Wi ne s a nd L a b e l i ng Ter ms German wine styles from least ripe to ripest: Kabinett is the lightest and most delicate style of Riesling and is usually quite dry and low in alcohol.

In North America, Riesling is grown in several places, including Canada, Washington State, Oregon, California, Michigan, Colorado, New York, and Virginia. American winemakers strive to create dry and off-dry Rieslings that retain their vital acidity. Washington State is the biggest producer of Riesling in North America. The Columbia Valley AVA has the perfect climate for making wines with intense aromas and the right level of acidity. The Finger Lakes AVA in New York is well-known for its delicious dry Rieslings and captivating Ice Wine, thanks to the deep glacial lakes that retain heat until November, allowing for a longer growing season. When asked why Riesling performs so well in the Finger Lakes, Meagan Frank replied “My great-grandfather Konstantin Frank was the first to pioneer Riesling here in the eastern United States with our first planting in 1958. Since then, our Riesling program has increased to 8 different styles from traditional method sparkling, single-vineyard expressions to botrytis dessert styles. We love the versatility of this grape, and it works so well in our cool climate here in the Finger Lakes. Riesling is one of the most transparent grape varieties and shines with flavors of lime, mineral and stone fruit when it’s grown on our glacial soils. We are proud to be a pioneering producer of Riesling in America’s premier cool climate AVA of the Finger Lakes!” Similarly, Lake Ontario on the Niagara Peninsula aids in extending the growing season there to produce both dry and sweet Rieslings. W I N E C O U N T R Y I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Sommeliers everywhere love Riesling because it is one of the most food-friendly varieties. Riesling is an incredibly versatile grape that can be transformed into a wide array of wine styles. However, the one unchanging characteristic that sets Riesling apart is its remarkable acidity, making it ideal for pairing with food. Drier-style Rieslings pair perfectly with fresh seafood and shellfish, as well as various cheeses and meats and would be a perfect accompaniment to a cheese and charcuterie board. Sweeter varieties stand up well to spice and can easily stand up to lemongrass chicken, acidic sauces like Beurre Blanc or strong Indian and spicy Asian dishes. Super sweet and unctuous dessert wines can pair well with strong blue cheese or foie gras but avoid trying to pair Riesling with sweet chocolate desserts as they may overpower the wine. From bone-dry to unctuously sweet, Riesling produces some of the world’s most age-worthy and food-friendly white wines. While Riesling is rarely blended, the grape’s ability to be nurtured and transformed into so many different styles of wine is truly remarkable. Whether still or sparkling, there is genuinely a Riesling for every palate. No more excuses, it is time to give Riesling another try. I promise, you won’t be sorry.

Spätlese is made from grapes picked later in the season and is more concentrated with more body and alcohol. Auslese is made from specially selected bunches of very ripe grapes. This wine can be dry or sweet and is richer and riper in style. Beerenauslese is a dessert wine made from individually selected overripe grapes, often affected by Botrytis. Trockenbeerenauslese is a relatively rare complex dessert wine made using grapes that have been fully affected by Botrytis. Eiswein is made with grapes left on the vine to freeze before being made into wine. It can only be made in years when the temperatures are cold enough to freeze the ripened grapes. With today’s weather patterns, Eiswein is becoming more and more challenging to make. Labeling terms that indicate levels of sweetness: “Grosses Gewächs” on the label means the wine has been certified as dry and comes from one of the best producers and one of the best sites. “Trocken” means dry in German and indicates a dry wine with less than 9 grams/liter of residual sugar. “Halbtrocken” or “Feinherb” indicates a wine with 9 to 15 grams/liter of residual sugar. But don’t be discouraged because the grape’s characteristic high acidity will balance the sugar, resulting in a wine that will taste quite dry.

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VINO TASTINGS

vinoTasting 2023 Editors Tasting Selection: Riesling We feel that Riesling is such a versatile and important varietal for all wine lovers to explore. Wine Country International ® Magazine editors sent out a call for Riesling submittals last month. The response and support from the industry was very strong. Thank you! Here is a selection of the lovely wines that we tasted. We have noted each wines sweetness level next to its bottle price.

Editors Choice Wines: Pierre Sparr Riesling, Grande Réserve 2020

Trimbach, Riesling, 2021 Alsace, France $28.99

Alsace, France $16.99 (Bone Dry) This bright

pale-yellow wine slowly opens to aromas of dried herbs, orange blossom, and citrus with a hint of petrol. On the palate wet stones combine with layers of minerals and even more citrus that bring the wine to a long racy finish.

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Dr. Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling, 2021 Finger Lakes, NY $19.99

(Dry) White flowers,

mandarin orange, and citrus are just a few of the flood of aromas in this wine. On the palate, they are joined by more citrus, wet stones, candied orange and a hint of pineapple leading to a long minerally finish.

(Dry) This delicate wine

opens with aromas of lime zest, green pears, and wet stones that lead to a bright zesty palate of white peach and orange. The delightfully long zesty finish seems to go on forever.

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VINO TASTINGS Lucien Albrecht Riesling Reserve, 2021

Carboy Winery Riesling, 2020

Dr. Loosen “Red Slate” Dry Riesling, 2022

(Dry) Super fragrant aromas of dried herbs, citrus zest, and orange blossom lead to an almost mouth-puckering hit of citrus rounded out with candied orange, dried herbs, and citrus zest leading to a long, lingering finish.

(Dry) Ripe peach, rhubarb, and aromatic blossoms are immediately evident. They lead to a plate that boasts honeycomb, golden delicious apples, and pear drops with a perfectly balanced finish.

(Dry) A hint of chalky minerality combines with aromas of flowers, apples, sweetened lime juice and dry leaves that lead into an intense mineral palate with flavors of nectarine and peach with a delightfully long lingering finish.

Robert Weil, Riesling Tradition, 2022

Robert Weil, Riesling Trocken, 2021

Jim Barry Lodge Hill Riesling 2021

(Dry) White peach, apple and earthy aromas blend harmoniously with wet stones on the nose. The nose hints at the juicy, slightly sweet flavors of stone fruit, apples, and white flowers that are beautifully balanced by the refreshing acidity and long finish.

(Dry) Hints of petrol and wet stones play beautifully with the green apple and white flower aromas that lead into a full, luscious mouth of juicy stone fruits and flinty minerality leading to a bright crisp finish.

(Dry) From one of

Trefethen Family Vineyards, Dry Riesling, 2022

Snoqualmie, Winemaker’s Select Riesling 2019

Grand River Vineyards, Riesling, 2021

(Dry) Ripe aromas of melon, pears and a hint of pineapple are a welcome introduction to the medium-bodied Riesling that delights with additional pear, Granny Smith apples, flinty minerality and a long, citrus finish.

(Dry) The honey yellow color hints at the aromas of ripe peach, spiced pear, and dried fruit that led to a juicy wine of peach, apricot, and honeycomb that linger on the palate through the crisp clean finish.

(Dry) The aromas of this wine are simultaneously grassy, herbal, floral, and fruity. As the wine passes over the palate, you pick up flavors of honeycomb, peach tea, gala apples, and nougat. A balanced acidity adds to the smooth finish.

Alsace, France $19.99

Rheingau, Germany $25.00

Napa, CA $25.95

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Grand Valley, CO $26.00

Rheingau, Germany $25.00

Columbia Valley, WA $10.99

Mosel, Germany $18.00

Clare Valley, Australia $19.99

Australia’s acclaimed Riesling regions, this wine boasts super fresh and intense aromas of lime, lime zest, and honeysuckle. On the super dry, crisp palate expect more lime and citrus balanced with green apples, flinty minerality and a touch of salinity on the palate.

Palisade, CO $20.00

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VINO TASTINGS Grand River Vineyards, Santé Sparkling Riesling, NV

St Urbans Hof, Riesling, Old Vines, 2022

St Urbans Hof, Urban Riesling, 2022

(Dry) This pale-yellow

(Off Dry) A flinty stone

(Off Dry) Slightly sweeter and less complex that their old vines, Riesling, this wine delivers delightful aromas of lime, stone fruit, and honey that open to a round palate displaying flavors of ripe green apples and sweet pear drops balanced enough acidity to create a belong, beautiful finish.

Palisade, CO $60.00

glass of fizz shows a soft lively effervescence. Aromas of white peach green apple and pear with a touch of brioche are immediately noticeable. Citrus notes of lemon, lime, and grapefruit come alive on the palate and lead to a long lively finish.

minerality mingles on a nose of green apples, honeycomb, and orange blossom with complex flavors of ripe peaches, nectarines, and a touch of petrol. The minerality continues throughout the wine into a long finish that delivers racy acidity with a spicy, slightly salty finish.

Mosel, Germany $14.00

Dr Konstantin Frank Bischöfliche Weingüter Célèbre Sparkling Riesling, Trier, Riesling Kabinett, Cremant NV Ayler Kupp, 2020

Dr. Loosen “Blue Slate” Riesling Kabinett, 2020

Finger Lakes, NY $24.99

Mosel-Saar, Germany $26.00

(Med Sweet) Aromas of sweet nectarine, mandarin orange, and a hint of cotton candy introduce a delicately effervescent wine with flavors of yellow peaches, ripe pear and sweet apples perfectly balanced by its backbone of crisp acidity.

(Med Sweet) Concentrated

(Med Sweet) This wine opens with fruity and floral aromas of stone fruit and rose petals. On the palate it delivers delicate flavors of white peach mixed with a flinty minerality that continues throughout the finish.

S.A. Prum, Wehlen Sonnenuhr, Riesling Kabinett 2017

Schloss Vollrads, Winkel Riesling Kabinett, 2021

Schloss Vollrads, Winkel Riesling Qualitätswein, 2020

Mosel, Germany $38.99

(Med Sweet) This delightfully

complex and age worth wine exudes aromas of grapefruit zest and rose petals with a lively palate of quince, pink grapefruit balanced with tropical notes. The everlasting finish is delightfully crisp and juicy.

Mosel, Germany $21.00

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aromas of ripe peaches and nectarine lure you into a wine that combines stony minerality with layers of flavors including sweet pear drops, roses, and grapefruit. The long lively finish brings all the elements together.

Rheingau, Germany $27.00 (Sweet) This light-bodied

Riesling offers aromas of elderflowers, yellow plums, and apricots in a fruity offdry wine that is perfectly balanced by its lively acidity. The finish keeps going and the flavors of yellow peaches, and nectarines go along for the ride.

Mosel, Germany $23.00

Rheingau, Germany $27.00 (Fruity Sweet) Concentrate

aromas of white flowers, pear, and nectarine introduce this juicy off-dry, light bodied, Riesling that delivers ripe grapefruit and lime with a pleasant balanced finish.

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VINO TASTINGS

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Feature : Barolo

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Barolo Land of hills, sophisticated wines, and cuisine Story and Photos by Christopher J Davies

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I must confess upfront. Before this September, I had never visited Piedmont, let alone the town of Barolo before. I am now asking myself why. I have been a big fan of Nebbiolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, and Dolcetto for over half my lifetime. I fell into the same trap that most people do when visiting Italy to discover exceptional wines. The first place that 95% of Americans visit is Tuscany and Florence. While that is not a bad thing, I have begun to open my eyes to new horizons. In June, we received a press announcement from Slow Food International promoting the dates for Slow Food Cheese in Bra. With 200,000 cheese mongers descending on the small city of Bra, I cast my accommodations-seeking net further and searched for apartments on Airbnb. After several searches and an hour of reading the reviews left by past renters, I settled on a great apartment in the heart of Barolo. The location was in the center of the city, near a wall that had a spectacular view of rolling hills and vineyards. Located on the building’s 1st floor (2nd level), our apartment had two outdoor balconies accessible from the dining area. The cost with surcharges and cleaning fees came out to $152 per day, which is a bargain when considering the location. Barolo is a small village with a famous reputation. Its centerpiece is the Barolo Castle and Wine Museum. The first documentation of its fortification traces back to the tenth century.

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The second most prominent landmark of the town is the place where world-renowned Barolo wine originated. Marchesi di Barolo resulted from a love story and passion for wine dating back to 1834. Juliette and Carlo Tancredi moved from France to Turin in 1814, where she took her Italian name, Giulia. That year, the couple moved to Barolo, where Giulia saw the potential of the vineyards planted around the castle and the tiny village. They established Marchesi di Barolo and were the first to produce red wine from Nebbiolo grapes under the Barolo name. In 1929, Pietro Abbona acquired Cantine dei Marchese di Barolo with his brother and two sisters. Today, his ancestors continue the family legacy of producing elegant, refined wines from Barolo. Marchesi di Barolo was just a five-minute walk from our apartment. We reached out in advance and made an appointment to meet the family. When we first arrived, we were greeted by the communications manager and given a personal tour of the cellars and production facilities by a knowledgeable young man named Simone. Several original casks from Giulia’s reign remain on display in the cellar. A private wine library stores a collection of older vintages of wine that were part of the Abbona family’s collection.

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There was also a display of special flattened bottles made to fit into boxes disguised as books to hide the wines from the Nazis during World War II. We met with the ultra-friendly, sweet family matriarch and spokespersons, Mrs. Anna Abbona and her daughter Valentina. After reviewing past magazine issues, Mrs. Anna told us we should visit their restaurant as her guest for lunch. Ernesto and Anna Abbona are the current owners of Marchesi di Barolo. Their daughter, Valentina, oversees the marketing and sales, while their son, Davide, oversees the viticulture. Valentina invited us to taste some wine in the winery’s tasting parlor. The walls were laden with graffiti created by past visitors. Barolo is often called the “King of Italian Wines” and the “Wine of Kings.” Like most European wine regions, the Barolo DOCG area has strict rules; the wine must be made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and aged for at least 36 months, 18 of those aged in oak barrels. Riserva wines must be aged for a minimum of five years.

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Grapes must be sourced from vineyards located within the designated growing area encompassing these eleven communes: • Barolo • Castiglione Falleto • Cherasco • Diano d’Alba • Grinzane Cavour • La Morra • Monforte d’Alba • Novello • Roddi • Serralunga d’Alba • Verduno Barolo can be made as a cuvée blend of grapes from multiple vineyards or as a single vineyard wine. Barolo wines have excellent cellar aging abilities. Some serious collectors have laid down these wines for thirty years or longer. There are several wine producers based in surrounding villages that make Barolo using grapes purchased from vineyards in the town. In 2014, the UNESCO World Heritage Convention declared that the vineyard landscapes of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato in Piedmont, which includes Barolo, are a world heritage site. “The vineyard landscapes of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato in Piedmont consist of five distinct wine growing areas and a castle, whose names evoke profound and ancient expertise in the relationship between man and his environment.” https:// whc.unesco.org/en/list/1390/

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Marchesi di Barolo wines tasted:

Marchesi di Barolo ‘Bric Amel’, Langhe White Blend 2021 $20 ***** Made from a blend of Arneis, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Pale Yellow Straw color. Outstanding floral notes of peaches with almonds. Full and fresh floral flavors with a mineral finish. Production: 25,000 cases. Marchesi di Barolo ‘Peiragal’ Barbera d’Alba Superiore 2021 $39.99 ***** Made from 100% Barbera grapes. Dark burgundy color. Blackberry and stone aromas. Plum and peppery flavor. Production: 20,000 cases. Marchesi di Barolo Alba Picit 2021 $29.90****1/2 Made from 85% Nebbiolo and 15% Barbera. Dark ruby color. Aromas of blackberry and pepper. Flavors of juicy blackberry and plum. Production: 10,000 cases. Marchesi di Barolo - Barolo Tradizione 2018 $54.99***** This flagship wine is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Crimson color. Aromas of blackberry and cherry. Flavors of juicy tart cherry. Production: 15,000 cases. Marchesi di Barolo - Coste di Rose 2018 $100****1/2 This wine is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes sourced from the prestigious Coste di Rose hillside vineyard. The soil is sandy and silty. Burgundy red color. Aromas of blackberry, plum, and dark cherry. Flavors of lush, vibrant red fruit with blackberry and blueberry. Production : 5,000 cases. Marchesi di Barolo - Sarmassa 2018 $135***** This wine is made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes sourced from the southeastern-facing vineyards with calcareous rock and clay soils. Dark burgundy color. Aromas of candied dark fruit. Flavors of black plum with firm tannins. Production: 7,000 cases. Marchesi di Barolo is a must visit in Barolo. This historic, founding winery has set the bar high for the magnificent wines that talented winemakers and viticulturists can produce in Barolo and Italy: https://marchesibarolo.com/en/ Since the founding of Barolo’s first winery, others have followed suit, and according to the commune, there are now forty-four producers in the village. Some top producers include: Borgogno-Established in 1761: https://www.borgogno.com/ Germano Angelo-Established in 1908: https://www. germanoangelo.com/en/ Damilano-Established in 1890: https://cantinedamilano.it/ en/home/ Vol. 3 202 3

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Photo courtesy of Arborina Relais

WHERE TO STAY: Hotel Barolo (3-Star) This hotel is centrally located at the entrance to the village, situated on a steep hill. The Brezza family has operated the hotel and restaurant for three generations. The hotel has a spectacular view of the castle, a large swimming pool and is surrounded by vineyards. High season (May to December) room rates: Single Room € 90,00 – 110,00. Double Room € 150,00 – 170,00. https://www.hotelbarolo.it/en/

Photo courtesy of Piazzetta Holiday Barolo

Arborina Relais (4-Star) Here is an upscale property in the hamlet of La Morra, just north of Barolo. The property is adjacent to lush hillside vineyards. They have three different types of luxury suites with outdoor spaces. The finishes are top designs, and the beds are soft and spacious! Room rates range from € 320,00 – 470,00 per night. Osteria Arborina is a fine dining restaurant with a zero-waste kitchen. Chef Fernando Tommaso Forino, a Campania native, is at the helm. He has extensive experience working in some of the world’s finest restaurants in Italy and abroad. https://arborinarelais.it/en/home/ Piazzetta Holiday Apartments, Barolo - Apt. B: ($152 per night)-Location Superb On Airbnb https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/8198978?source_ impression_id=p3_1698198175_3id%2B08qLtNtYFY5a

Photo courtesy of Piazzetta Holiday Barolo

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WHERE TO EAT: BREZZA RISTORANTE - Hearty and Wallet-Friendly! Inside the Hotel Barolo, Brezza Ristorante serves authentic, hearty cuisine in an informal, relaxed atmosphere and is delightfully wallet friendly. We tried veal with traditional tuna sauce (€12), seasonal flan with cheese cream (€10), Braised beef in Barolo wine sauce (€14), with fried polenta, and Bra sausages (Veal) with crisp polenta (€13). The wine list consists of the owner’s private brand of local wines: https://www.hotelbarolo.it/en/ristorante-brezza/typicalrestaurant-barolo/

Wine pairing : Viridis Langhe Sauvignon Blanc Piedmont 2022 https://pettitbistrot.it/it/

PETTI’T BISTROT - Tasty, delicious near the castle! Located near the walls of the Barolo Castle, this small restaurant and wine bar has authentic charm. They have several areas for dining with indoor tables, outdoor balconies with excellent views of the Barolo Castle, and steeped vineyards in the distance.

Antipasti: • Beef Tongue with Parsley Sauce €12 • Pumpkin Flan wit D.O.P Castelmagno Cheese Cream €12

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EASY COSI BAROLO - Intimate, tasty, and with excellent value! This small winery, wine bar, and restaurant was just steps from our Airbnb in Piazza Municipio 4. We walked by it for several days, smelling the flavors emanating from the kitchen, peeking in, and seeing the happy faces of the patrons. On our last evening in Barolo, we peeked in again and made an early dinner reservation.

Primi: • Handmade Ravioli with Butter and Sage €12 • Stewed Veal stewed in Barolo Wine Sauce with Polenta Pie €15 The wine markup on bottles was lower than other restaurants and wine bars in town. https://www.easycosibarolo.com/ W I N E C O U N T R Y I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Feature : Barolo

Agnolotti del plin (typical Piedmont pasta) with three types of meat, alpine butter with sage

Marchese di Barolo - La Foresteria Restaurant (5-Stars-Outstanding!)

Located on the second floor of the winery, this upscale restaurant is open for lunch or dinner and offers several sensory food and wine experiences. Tradition Menu • Traditional Vitello Tonnato • Flan with in-season vegetables • Agnolotti del plin (typical Piedmont pasta) with three types of meat, alpine butter with sage. • Beef braised in Barolo wine sauce and a seasonal side dish. • Homemade Dessert • Selection of 5 wines from the cellar Price: €79 per person. Duration: 2.5 hours The presentation, creative and delicious cuisine, and wine pairing were outstanding! https://marchesibarolo.com/en/visits/

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Traditional Vitello Tonnato

Flan with in-season vegetables

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Beef braised in Barolo wine sauce and a seasonal side dish.

Homemade Dessert

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Mixed Soup of Crustaceans, Mussels, Shells, Toasted Bread, Spring Vegetables and Savory Foam.

Pidgeon Breast, Porcini, Hazelnuts, Duck Liver, and Potatoes with Cream.

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Quail Scotch-Egg, Mustard Seed Mayonnaise, Trombetta Zucchini (Italian heirloom climbing squash).

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Short Crust Pastry, Caramelized Cherries, and Gratin of Zabagione Custard Sauce.

Massimo Camia Ristorante

One Michelin Star Restaurant with well-executed cuisine and wine! Our friend, Ryan Fletter, Owner, and Wine Director at Denver’s Barolo Grill, suggested we dine at Massimo Camia Ristorante. We did not know that it was a One Star Michelin awarded establishment. Darcy and I were excited to experience this restaurant. It was just five minutes from town by car. This family-run restaurant has a bright and stately interior. They are located on the first floor next door to Cantina Damilano Winery on the Barolo Alba state road. The customer experience is the family’s prime concern. Massimo and his wife Luciana opened the restaurant in 2013. Today, their two children have also joined the restaurant. Son Iacopo is a sommelier and handles the front of the house. Daughter Elisabetta is working alongside her father and mother in the kitchen. Starters • Pidgeon Breast, Porcini, Hazelnuts, Duck Liver, and Potatoes with Cream. • Quail Scotch-Egg, Mustard Seed Mayonnaise, Trombetta Zucchini (Italian heirloom climbing squash). Entrees: • Mixed Soup of Crustaceans, Mussels, Shells, Toasted Bread, Spring Vegetables and Savory Foam. • Classic Piedmontese Tajarin Pasta with Spugnole Mushroom Sauce Wine: Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo 2013 €70 ****1/2 This bottle was an excellent, ten-year-old wine made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes sourced from vines in the Barolo-Novello district. Dessert: • Short Crust Pastry, Caramelized Cherries, and Gratin of Zabagione Custard Sauce. Total bill with our bottle of wine (excluding gratuity): €224.

Classic Piedmontese Tajarin Pasta with Spugnole Mushroom Sauce

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The amazing, highly creative, and flavorful cuisine, with a spectacular wine selection and excellent service, was well worth the cost! We highly recommend Massimo Camia Ristorante. You will not be disappointed! https://www.massimocamia.it/en/home W I N E C O U N T R Y I N T E R N AT I O N A L

Photo courtesy of Marchesi di Barolo.

Feature : Barolo

2023 Barolo Harvest Report: During our visit, the harvest was going into full swing. Wineries were beginning to bring in red grapes. In mid-October, I contacted Marchesi di Barolo to see how the crop turned out. Davide Abbona, Viticulturist at Marchesi di Barolo, explained:

“Vintage 2023 was again a very complicated year because of the many weather overruns that occurred. The period between May and June was characterized by generous rainfall in the Langa and Roero areas, while in the Asti zone the long period of drought was further prolonged. In early July a very violent and extensive hailstorm primarily affected the Roero area and, although on a small scale, the Barbaresco zone. Over the following months, heat raged: particularly in August, temperatures averaged 39°C (102 degrees F) for 10 consecutive days. Heat and low rainfall continued until the end of the harvest. That said, it is precisely in vintages such as this one that readiness and timing of intervention impact both in terms of quantity and quality on the yield of future wines. I proudly emphasize how our team in the countryside responded excellently to the various situations that occurred. The harvest lasted a total of about fifty days, with more hectic weeks and others a bit quieter. To sum it up, I am extremely satisfied with the work done in the vineyards and in the cellar: I can already confirm surprisingly fresh wines with parameters suitable for long aging.”

Barolo made us feel like we entered an enchanted Disneyesque world. There was a lot to experience in such a small village. There was no shortage of wine shops (Enoteca’s) on every street and alley. Everywhere we looked, down the streets or across the steep valleys, we were reminded that we were in one of the world’s most spectacular wine towns. CD

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SLOW FOOD CHEESE 2023 50

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Slow Food Cheese 2023 Story and photos by Christopher J Davies

Bra, a town in Piedmont, Italy, is Ground Zero for Slow Food International, the global grassroots organization created to prevent the disappearance of food cultures and local traditions. Carlo Petrini and a group of activists in the 1980s founded Slow Food. As Stanley Tucci, Actor and Television host, explained on CNN’s Discovering Italy, “The breaking point was when a McDonalds opened near the Spanish Steps in Rome.”

Today, the Slow Food movement has millions of supporters globally. Several celebrity chefs like Alice Waters of Chez Panisse (an early creator of Farm-To Table dining) and Massimo Bottura, an Italian restaurateur and the chef patron of Osteria Francescana, a three-Michelin-star restaurant based in Modena, Italy, are big proponents and occasional spokespersons for Slow Food International. Food and wine producers have unified with Slow Food to preserve heritage breeds, organic growing techniques, heirloom vegetables, over-farmed/ consumed fish, and near-extinct animal breeds. Earlier this year, we received a press announcement from Slow Food International announcing the dates for Cheese 2023, The Taste of The Meadows. We had heard about this biannual exhibition in the past. However, we had yet to learn that this is the largest celebration of cheese in the world! The City of Bra has approximately thirty thousand residents. It is a medium-sized city by Italian standards and is regarded as one of Italy’s most significant food Vol. 3 202 3

and wine experiences. Bra’s unique must-have local foods include Bra sausage (calf meat packed in a casing and typically consumed raw) and Bra protected designation of origin (DOP) cheese, made from pasteurized cow’s milk (pale yellow) and available in three different versions. Bra Duro is the most popular hard cheese aged 5 to 6 months. Approximately 200,000 cheese industry professionals, journalists, and Piedmont resident foodies descend upon Bra for this extraordinary cheese extravaganza every two years. This four-day exhibition is staged within the city’s center, with streets closed to automobile traffic. This year, four hundred producers and marketing associations exhibited outdoors within the city center. Several excellent seminars and workshops were held in tented areas, surrounding towns, and at Wine Bank (Banca del Vino), located 6 kilometers from Bra at the University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo. The University was founded in 2004 by Slow Food International and the regions of Piedmont am Emilia-Romagna.

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What we loved at Cheese 2023:

Giorgio Cravero Parmigiano Reggiano Parmigiano Reggiano and Grana Padano Cheese in Bra. Established in 1855, this fifth-generation family producer sources their milk from cows grazing at higher altitudes, retaining a higher moisture level than other producers. The result is a lush, buttery mouthfeel and a depth of flavor unmatched by export-quality parmesan. Twenty-five-foot-high rooms hold five thousand wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano. Each wheel weighs 80 lbs. Cravero’s wheels rest on pine, and they turn their wheels more frequently than other agers to create a softer, less cakey texture. We visited their booth and met a mysterious lady from Connecticut who was so much in love with cheese that she commissioned a cheese knife tattoo on her arm. Luckily, Cravero cheese is imported into the US. https://www.cravero-cheese.it/en/index.php

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Azienda Agricola La Borettaz is in Gressan, in the Aosta region of Northwestern Italy, forty minutes from Chamonix, France. This family business runs a cattle farm and produces milk, cheese, yogurt, and meat. We met the youngest employee, Thierry, and his very proud mom and dad. Thierry was just eighteen and managing their busy booth, dishing out samples and selling wedges of artisan cheese. He and his colleagues were dressed in traditional farmer clothes from their region. They showcased several delectable Fontina DOP and three versions of TOMA, wheels of cheese made by the farmer himself: natural, pepper, and garlic flavored. Their booth was quite busy today with people sampling and purchasing cheese. https://www.laborettaz.it/

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Monte Veronese Formaggio DOP Monte Veronese is an Italian DOP cheese typical to the Veneto region. The milk’s area of origin and processing, as well as the aging of the cheese, is in the northern part of the province of Verona. It is mainly a mountainous area from ancient volcanoes rich in fertile pastures. The territory boasts an old tradition of livestock farming, alpine grazing, and milk and cheese production dating back to before the first millennium. Unlike coating the cheese’s exterior with volcanic ash, the volcanic properties of the terroir are melded in the animal’s milk and finally into the cheese. There are currently eight producers making cheese from the ancient volcanic area. They produce two types of Monte Veronese DOP (“whole milk” and “D’Allevo”) in various maturations. The product presented at Cheese 2023 was Monte Veronese D’Allevo, produced exclusively with mountain pasture milk collected between May and October from grazing cows. Part of Volcanic Agriculture of Europe https://volcanicagricultureofeurope.com/il-debutto-diheva-a-cheese-2023-il-sapore-dei-prati/

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Neal’s Yard Dairy-UK We came across this fantastic purveyor from the UK with a booth load of massive, fat, humongous, tire-sized cheddar wheels. Neal’s Yard offers a wide selection of blue cheese, Cheddar, soft cheese, British territorial cheeses, goat and sheep cheese, washed rind, and hard cheese. We tasted Montgomery’s Cheddar, a rich and savory cheese in unpasteurized (raw milk) and pasteurized versions. https://www.nealsyarddairy.co.uk/products/montgomeryscheddar

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Tarantino- Puglia, Italy This producer was established in 1980 by two brothers, Savierio and Francesco Tarantino, in Gravina, Puglia. The brothers are committed to the tradition and authenticity of Apulian dairy products. Their specialty is Pallone di Gravina, a cheese produced in a spherical shape. With ancient origins, the raw milk used to make this cheese comes from controlled farms that follow a diet based on 100% GMO-free feed and fodder. They make a second purple-colored version (Gravina Primitivo Ball) that is immersed in Puglia’s flagship Primitivo red wine. Named after the city where it is produced, Pallone di Gravina is made from January to March and aged for three months in unique natural cellars. The cheese matures to have a golden color with a slightly spicy flavor. Tarantino makes a full range of different cheeses (Burrata, Cacioricotta, Ricotta, Scamorza, and Mozzarella, to name a few). Photo of man in the booth: Francesco Tarantino, Cheesemaker and co-owner. https://www.caseificiotarantino.it/

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Saba Azienda Agricola Southern Tuscany, Italy This female-owned producer is in the small Tuscan village of Massa Marittima. She specializes in cheese made from raw goat/ sheep milk, which is the oldest cheese tradition in the world. Sheep milk has more calcium, iodine, Omega 3, and group B vitamins. http://www.sabaformaggi.it/

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Kaeskuche GmbH & CO- Germany This German cheese affineur and broker exports artisanal cheese worldwide. Most of their cheese is sourced from Bavaria and Austria, ranging from hard mountain cheese (aged 5, 18 to 24 months) to semi-hard and soft cheese. They travel to remote villages to select the best Alpine cheese for export globally. The star of their booth was Alp Blossom, produced in Allgäu (BY), Germany, by Hofkäserei Kraus und Kaeskuche. It features a delightful texture and a creamy, fresh hazelnut flavor. Its exterior is covered with dried, colorful alpine flowers and herbs, which are pressed onto the cheese wheels by hand. This cow’s milk cheese is semi-hard and aged for four months. The same producer makes a Ukraine-style Alp Blossom. Kaeskuche carries a wide range of intriguing cheese. or more, visit: https://www.kaeskuche.com/

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Kaasaffineurs Van Tricht- Belgium This company began as a cheese shop and evolved into a multifaceted third-generation business focusing on bringing artisan Belgian cheese to the world. The company has constructed ten modern aging caves where cheese ages to perfection. Frederic Van Tricht, grandson of the founder, heads up the company. He is co-author of the book “Cheese Champions” which is about 15 International passionate, artisan cheesemakers. His booth at Cheese 2023 showcased a range of Cheese that reflected Belgium’s terroir and craftsmanship. •Young Farmdal- Cheese with yellow rind, short aging 2-3 months, lactic and slightly fresh taste. •Farmdal-Cheese with brown rind, aged for 5-6 months. Lactic and caramel taste. •Old Farmdal “Space Cheese”- The idea was developed by NASA astronaut Shannon Walker, who asked to send some cheese to the International Space Station during her mission in 2021. After 10-12 months of aging, this Cheese develops tyrosine crystals and caramel, a slightly sweet flavor. Funky Monk- Belgium’s signature cheese, also known as the abbey cheese. This cheese is made by monks alongside where beer is brewed. The second version, Drunk Monk, gets a beer bath. The paste is semi-sweet with an elegant beer flavor. For more info, visit: https://www.kaasaffineursvantricht.be/en/

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Seminar Comté and Brunello di Montalcino: A Heavenly Pairing This guided tasting took place at Wine Bank, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, Pollenzo Comté is a legendary cow’s milk cheese from Franche-Comté in eastern France near the Switzerland border. This guided tasting paired vintage and riserva wines from Pian delle Querci and Col d’Orcia wineries with different aged Comté cheese. The winemakers participated on Zoom, but there were audio-visual difficulties. All in all, the pairings were excellent. Slow Food International’s Cheese 2023 was a spectacular kaleidoscope of artisanal raw cheese and all the hard work and conditions contributing to each cheese’s DNA. Honestly, this show is so huge that it was difficult to experience everything. We left with a much better awareness and knowledge of cheese. https://www.slowfood.com/what-we-do/themes/slowcheese/

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Where we ate: Osteria La Bocca Buona, Bra

This restaurant is in the center of Bra. They have a long tunnel leading into their property. The restaurant’s interior walls were made of red bricks. They were decorated with classic rock LP covers from the 70s and 1980s. Price Fix Menu: Russian Salad with beef cheeks, spicy red sauce, and anchovies with parsley pesto. Pork cheeks with roasted carrots. Vanilla bean ice cream with chartreuse. €24.50 per person Wine pairing: Damilano 2022 Arneis €24 The food was delicious! http://www.laboccabuona.it/

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Where we ate: Ristorante Garden, Agenzia Pollenzo This restaurant was a wonderful surprise at the University of Gastronomy in Pollenzo. The university campus is located minutes away from Bra. Garden Restaurant has large windows overlooking a large park. The cuisine is farm fresh and focused on the Langhe traditional dishes. Amuse-Bouche • Bra Sausage (raw calf’s meat) • Bacala Cake with potato Primi • Gnocchi al Raschera (with Raschera cheese) €25 Secondi • •Cheese 2023 Cheese Platter-10 pieces for €25 “The Taste of The Meadows” (Pictured clockwise from top) 1. Lombardy/ Piedmont- Orobiche Valleys Traditional Stracchino- (Raw Cow’s milk) 2. Lombardy/ Piedmont-Sweet Gorgonzola (cow’s milk) 3. Loire Valley- Pouligny-Saint-Pierre- (raw goat’s milk) 4. Asti-Roccaverno (raw goat’s milk) 5. Piedmont-Macagn (raw cow’s milk) 6. Sicily-Nebrodi Provola (raw cow’s milk) 7. Switzerland-Mountain Pasture Sbrinz (raw cow’s milk) 8. Sardinia- Shepherds’ Fiore Sardo (raw sheep’s milk) 9. England-Stichelton (raw cow’s milk) 10. France-Roquefort (raw sheep’s milk) • Ombrina (Seared croaker fish with trombetta zucchini, green beans and hollandaise sauce €22 Wine: Ceretto Langhe Arneis 2022 €28 Dessert: Panna Cotta con Vanilla €8 We loved our lunch! https://www.albergoagenzia.com/garden-resturant/ Vol. 3 202 3

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Slow Food Cheese Awards On day one, Slow Food kicked off their fourteenth edition of cheese with a ceremony co-hosted by Francesco Lollobrigida, Minister of Agriculture, Food Sovereignty and Forestry, Alberto Cirio, President of the Piedmont Region, Gianni Fogliato, Mayor of Bra, Barbara Nappini, President of Slow Food Italy, and Carlo Petrini, founder of Slow Food.

This edition brought together herders, cheesemakers, and enthusiasts united under the theme, “The Taste of The Meadows,” emphasizing how raw milk from pasture-raised animals is crucial to sustainable food systems.

Slow Cheese awards recognized small-scale producers who, despite all the hard work, risks, and isolation involved, continued to persist. The winners were selected based on their commitment to making natural raw milk cheeses, especially to their fair and animal-friendly farming.

Photos courtesy of Slow Food.

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Carlo Petrini, Slow Food International, Founder (L)

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Winners included: David Nedelkovski - North Macedonia David raises alpine and domestic Balkan goats, calling himself a “Cossack” or “free man.” David produces several types of fresh or aged cheese, all hard or semi-hard.

Ekaterina Prichodko and Eros Scarafoni - Ukraine/Italy Before the war, Ekaterina Prichodko, a cheesemaker and veterinarian, owned a small farm in the Buča area near Kyiv, where she raised goats and made cheese. Putin’s war came to her front door, and she was forced to leave with her three children, three dogs, and a cat in tow.

Tetyana Stramnova - Ukraine Tetyana Stramnova started as an interior designer in Donetsk and opened her first farm when she gave birth to her first child while beginning to raise quails. When Russians arrived in the region, she and her family had to leave, finally coming to Muzikyvka in the Kherson region. Tatyana’s story is about survival and persistence. She learned how to raise goats and make cheese, specializing in making cheese from the milk of the Ukrainian short-eared goat breed. She accomplished this while tending to her special needs children.

They arrived in Pisa, where she met Eros Scarafoni, a farmer and cheese producer. He invited her to join his business. So far, two new cheeses have been born from their collaboration.

Giampaolo Gaiarin - Italy Teaching food technology, Giampaolo makes his skills available to young people and advances a precise idea of cheese. Giampaolo has put his experience and expertise at the service of the cause of natural cheese made from raw milk without the addition of selected ferments, working alongside small-scale producers in Italy and worldwide.

Marco Villa - Italy A veterinarian has created a supportive community of breeders, motivating young people and giving them an opportunity for redemption in the complex Ligurian mountain area at risk of depopulation. He has helped save and protect the Cabannina breed. In Val d’Aveto, a mountainous, complex area at risk of depopulation, located between the metropolitan city of Genoa and the province of Piacenza, the Cabannina has been reborn.

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Filiberto and Leonardo Vaira - Italy Since 2016, Filiberto and Leonardo Vaira have led a farm that produces various products. From May to October, Filiberto and Leonardo devote themselves to high-altitude pastures, where Bruna Alpina cows graze between 1,400 and 2,000 meters/ 4,593 to 6,561 feet. They also raise pigs. They produce exquisite cheese, including Padotra, a large-sized fatty alpine cheese made with raw milk from original Alpine Brown cows, and delicious goat tomini, fresh ricotta, and butter.

Michele Totaro - Italy Michele Totaro is a young breeder and cheesemaker who lives and works in Puglia, where his family has raised Podolica cows for four generations. The Podolica is a breed that needs to be presented in the wild. It offers flavorful, healthy meat rich in minerals, and its milk produces caciocavalli and ricotta cheese with unique flavors.

Vito Canio Abbate - Italy Vito Canio Abbate is a breeder and dairyman from Basilicata who devoted himself full-time to working on the farm after studying Animal Production Technology. He is focused on raising almost extinct Lucanian gray goats, an animal that was once widespread in the Potentino area. Canio raises sheep, goats, and Podolica cows and produces cacioricotta, caciocavallo Podolico.

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Parting Shots

Photo credit Christopher J Davies

Santa Lucia Highlands Move over Paso, Napa, and Sonoma. Big is only sometimes better. The Santa Lucia Highlands AVA is a unique growing area in Monterey County on the Central Coast on the western slope of the Santa Lucia Mountain Range. The area has one of California’s longest growing seasons, resulting in slow, even ripening and exceptional flavor development. This area focuses on producing excellent quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Our Grape Expectations column focuses on Malbec, the Nomad that finally found a home. We are excited to feature a new Tequila Mezcal Buyers Guide with the top-scored Mexican Agave Spirits from the 2023 Tequila Mezcal Challenge. You will find some outstanding bottles and delicious pairings created by celebrity TV chefs Hosea Rosenberg and Zuri Resendiz.

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Wine Country Network, Inc., publishers of Wine Country International® Magazine and a global leader in producing professional beverage competitions, has announced the launch of the Global Whisky Challenge, the world’s first exclusive traveling whisky competition to be held in Scotland, Japan, and the United States. Whisky’s popularity has become a worldwide phenomenon. More than 4,550 distilleries exist in the United States alone, of which approximately 40% produce Bourbon or whiskey. Thousands more distilleries produce whisky internationally. The Global Whisky Challenge aims to define excellence in whisky production worldwide. Distillers of all sizes from all locations can compete. Winning a prestigious award will enable brands to stand out globally. Top Award Levels: Global Champion, Best of Country, Best of Region Competitions

Global Whisky Challenge: UK and European Whisky-April 2024 Judging Location: Glasgow

Global Whisky Challenge: Asia and Oceana-May 2024 Judging Location: Tokyo

Global Whisky Challenge: North America (US, Canada, and Mexico)-June 2024

World Global Whisky Final-June 2024 Judging Location: New York, NY

GLOBALWHISKYCHALLENGE.COM

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Wine Country International 2023 Issue V3

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