Wine Country International Spring 2013

Page 1

WINE COUNTRY i

n

t

e

r

n

a

t

i

o

n

a

l

®

Spring 2013

Daniel Boulud’s DBGB Kitchen and Bar

Roussillon France 50 Shades Of Grenache!

Y o u r a t t i t u d e - f r e e p a ss p o r t t o g r e a t w i n e & d e l i c i o u s f o o d


THE RITUAL Step Nº 3 : The Liquid Alchemy

With the Chalice held at 45-degrees the beer comes to life, creating the correct proportions of foam and liquid. Perfection is in the details, and a perfect Stella Artois is no different.

StellaArtois.com

Always Enjoy Responsibly.

© 2011 Anheuser-Busch InBev S.A.,

Stella Artois® Beer, Imported by Import Brands Alliance, St. Louis, MO


Editor’s Letter Spring is in the air, and as we look forward to the imminent budbreak in the vineyards and the taste of exciting new vintages that have been maturing patiently in the cellar, we also eagerly await the moment we can replant our own fruitful gardens. With this burgeoning of new life, we are thrilled to announce that, after ten years of publishing Wine Country International® in print form, we will become all-digital effective with this issue. It should come as no surprise that a small, ambitious publication would follow in the direction of the esteemed Newsweek. We are excited to be publishing on the Issuu network, the leading digital publishing platform, delivering exceptional reading experiences to more than 52 million readers monthly. Our current, future, and past issues may be read online through your favorite web browser or on Ipads and mobile devices. All articles will have website links embedded so that you, our reader, may continue to discover more from every article ever to grace our pages. Please subscribe for free to receive notifications of our new editions. If you’re a devout fan of print and would like to receive a printed version of our magazine, we are happy to report that Issuu will print and mail you an issue for a nominal fee. We hope that you will enjoy this new edition. Our feature story covers the magnificent Roussillon wine region in the south of France. While it is responsible for only two percent of France’s production, Roussillon is destined to become France’s shining star. Beginning with this issue we will include the best wine reviews from our Vinotasting newsletter, judged by our highly experienced panel of professional sommeliers. Vinotasting features its own attitude-free rating system (1 to 5 stars), which is much like a hotel rating system. Wines $20 or lower that garner a rating of 4 stars or higher are classified as Best Buys, and with our expert panel at the helm you won’t want to miss these terrific values. Cheers! Christopher J. Davies Publisher & Editor @chrisjdavies59

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

3


Contents Wine Country International ® Magazine Christopher J. Davies Co-Founder, Editor & Publisher Darcy R. Davies Co-Founder & Design Director Natalie Guinovart DWS, CWE, CS, Senior Tasting Editor Copy Editor Natalie Guinovart Managing Editor Beth Prieto Food Editor Clair Walter Lifestyle Editor V.G. Walsh Public Relations Marilyn M. Miller Director of Photography Christopher J. Davies Contributing Editors: Lisa Carley Juda Engelmayer Michael Long Barrie Lynn Radio Show Producer Tom Sheffield www.twcradio.com Advertising, Sponsorship and Club Sales Sharon Bolton Eastern Advertising Sales Emily White East Coast Business Manager Dorothy Brown Director of New York Tours Lisa Carley Website Design www.nIdea.com A publication of Wine Country Network, Inc. Christopher J. Davies Chairman & CEO, Co-Founder Darcy Davies President & Co-Founder James Alterbaum, Esq. Corporate Counsel Wine Country Network, Inc. P.O. Box 6023 Broomfield, CO 80021 Tel. 303-664-5700 Fax. 303-648-4199 www.winecountrynetwork.com e-mail: info@winecountrynetwork.com Address editorial inquiries to cdavies@winecountrynetwork.com VINOTASTING Newsletter at www.Vinotasting.com Twitter: @vinotasting Wine Country International Digital Magazine is published 5 times per year by Wine Country Network, Inc. To view & subscribe visit: http://issuu.com/winecountrynetwork Wine Country International Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All letters sent to Wine Country Network will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes. Contents © 2013 by Wine Country Network, Inc. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or part without written permission of the publisher. All photography in this publication, unless otherwise noted is copyrighted by Christopher J. Davies, www.daviesphotos.com , all rights reserved.

4

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

WINE WORKS Pages 6-9 Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown” on CNN Court of Master Sommeliers Qtr 2 Schedule Red Wine with Fish? Broadmoor Resort’s Sommelier Boot Camp Blind Winemaker David Hunt Sees No Obstacles Take Israeli Wine Out of the Liquor Store Ghetto Exclusive 2013 Wine Country Network Events

Spirited Chat Page 10

Spirit Hound Distillers, Colorado

Chopin Dorda Double Chocolate Vodka

Brew Werks Page 11

Breckenridge Brewery Expanding

Craft Beer Festival in New Zealand Taos Mesa Brewing

Destinations Page 12 Layover in Paris

cooking the books Page 13

Books Reviews

Spring 2013


Winery Spotlight Pages 54-55

Passions & Portraits

Cover Feature

Pages 14-15

Pages 22-51

Chef Daniel Boulud’s

DBGB Kitchen & Bar, NYC

Balistreri Vineyards, Denver, Colorado

Vines & Wines Of Roussillon 50 Shades of Grenache

Feature Pages 56-63

Vinotasting

Search For the Vatican Wine Cellar

Culinary Arts

Spirits

Pages 16-21

Pages 52-53

Pages 64-65

Wine Reviews

2013 Denver International Spirit Competition Results!

Chef Lon Symensma

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

5


WINE WORKS

COURT OF MASTER SOMMELIERS, AMERICAS ANNOUNCES SECOND QUARTER EXAM SCHEDULE Introductory, Certified Sommelier, and Advanced Sommelier Exam Schedule set through June 2013.

Anthony Bourdain departs with fork in hand for “Parts Unknown” with CNN!

Want to expand your knowledge of wine? Take the Introductory 2-day course led by one of the world’s most respected providers of wine education.

Top chef, culinaire, best-selling author and travel host Anthony Bourdain will launch a new show “Parts Unknown” on CNN. The one-hour weekend show premiers on April 14th, at 9pm ET with its premier episode, Part’s Unknown Explores the Food and Culture of Myanmar.

The Introductory Sommelier Course & Exam is a fast-paced introduction to the world of wine and beverages led by Master Sommeliers. Two days of classroom-style lectures covers everything from French wine laws to classic wine producing regions to sake and beer. Students will also learn to perform the Court’s deductive tasting method from some

Bourdain is known for his New York-style wit and candor, backed by extensive culinary expertise. The one-hour weekend lifestyle series follows Bourdain as he travels across the globe to uncover little-known areas of the world and celebrate diverse cultures by exploring food and dining rituals. Known for his endless curiosity, and acerbic wit, Bourdain takes viewers off the beaten path of tourist destinations - including some war-torn parts of the world - and meets with a variety of local citizens to offer a window into their lifestyles. He occasionally communes with internationally lauded chefs on his journeys. www.CNN.COM

of the best palates in the world.

Introductory Sommelier Course & Exam Schedule Two-day educational course ending with a multiple-choice theory examination at the end of day two: 8:00am-5:30pm. •

April 1-2: Minneapolis, MN

April 10-11: Virginia Beach, VA

April 27-28: Hyde Park, NY

May 6-7: Philadelphia, PA

May 6-7: Santa Rosa, CA

May 13-14: Hyannis, MA

May 13-14: Anaheim, CA

May 30-31: Vail, CO

June 3-4: Columbus, OH

June 10-11: Kansas City, MO

June 17-18: Hollywood, FL

June 22-23: Vancouver, BC

To see full exam descriptions and find out what to expect, please refer to the Court of Master Sommeliers’ course and schedule overview: http://www.mastersommeliers.org/Pages.aspx/CoursesSchedules-Overview

6

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


WINE WORKS Red Wine with Fish? Winemaker Manuel Louzada of Bodega Numanthia in Toro, Spain says, “Definitely, yes!” As part of a promotional stunt at an Atlanta wine fundraiser, Louzada had heard about Georgia Aquarium, the world’s largest, and couldn’t resist diving into the famous 6. 3 million gallon Ocean Voyager exhibit. Luckily for him, these sharks were vegans! For more about his fish-friendly reds visit: www.numanthia.com

Blind winemaker David Hunt sees NO OBSTACLES in pursuing his dreams as an award-winning vintner and an acclaimed musician! David Hunt had several successful careers including music, technology and real estate before entering the wine industry. “I thought this would be a great way to retire and sit on the veranda and enjoy a glass of wine,” remarked Hunt, “It’s more work than I ever dreamed!”

Broadmoor’s Annual Sommelier Boot Camp Leave it to the world-famous Broadmoor Resort to offer wine lovers the opportunity to learn about and taste wines with Sommeliers and Master Sommeliers. The two-day experience will enlighten taste buds, expand sensory skills, and allow attendees the rare opportunity to taste more than $4,500 worth of premium quality wine. This intimate experience is limited to less than 50 guests. Included is the Broadmoor wine staff’s own wine binder full of valuable study materials covering Intro To Wine, Pinot Noir Around The World, Chardonnay Around The World, Riesling, Sparkling Wine, Bordeaux Varietals, and Food & Wine as well as citations and suggested reading.

While Hunt has hereditary retinitis pigmentosa, he does not believe in the words “impossible”, “can’t do” or “won’t work”. And, while he gave up music to pursue a more fruitful career, Hunt is now making premium quality wines at his Paso Robles winery and has recently recorded a new CD, “Rhapsody in Red. ” Hunt Cellars’ red wines are made from highly concentrated, mountaintop fruit. They are aged for 24-36 months in oak barrels and 24 months in bottle before release. His primary grape is Cabernet Sauvignon but he grows all Bordeaux varietals including Sauvignon Blanc. When making wine, Hunt listens to The Beatles, Billy Joel or Motown. His favorite dishes to pair with his red wines are those flavored with spices, or barbecue. For information about Hunt Cellars visit:www.huntcellars.com Check out our Podcast of our recent interview with David Hunt on Travel, Wine & Cuisine Radio: http://twcradio.com/Show_22.html

This is a fantastic, enriching treat for every serious wine enthusiast. Best of all, you get to stay and play at the worldclass Broadmoor Resort. The March 2013 Sommelier Boot Camp was a sell-out, so make plans early for 2014. Special one- and two-night packages will be offered. Call (800) 634-7711 or visit www.broadmoor.com for more information or to register.

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

7


WINE WORKS

Take Israeli Wine Out of the Liquor Store Ghetto By: Juda Engelmayer

Having become somewhat of a wine enthusiast over the years, I have tasted many fine wines from all over the world and toured wineries in the United States and abroad in pursuit of a recreational oenophile’s whimsy. Over the past twenty years or so, the market for kosher wines – don’t laugh – has grown, as post-Baby Boomers acquired money and taste and began seeking finer alternatives to the old-style, syrupy-sweet Malaga and Concord Grape selections of Kedem and Manischewitz. My late step-mother had a favorite story to tell. She went to a local liquor emporium known for its kosher wines, and asked for two gallon-sized bottles of ritual (Kiddush) wine, one Malaga and one Concord. The owner pulled her over to the side and said, in a low voice, “You know, you don’t need to drink that anymore. We have a large selection of really good kosher wines.” “I know,” she said, with a twinge of regret, “but my husband loves this stuff.” That was over fifteen years ago, and the “large” selection is now a huge one. In a sense, kosher wines have become ultra-westernized, and along with the fine cars, nice homes, single malt Scotches, boutique Bourbons and golf outings, kosher Baby Boomers now collect fine wines. “Fine” and “kosher” used to be contradictory terms when it comes to wine, but with the rise of so many wonderful vineyards in Israel, the race to produce the best kosher wines soon expanded to Spain, Australia, France, Italy, Chile, Argentina, Australia, New York, California, and every other major region where non-kosher wines are made. Grapes, like all foods that grow from the soil, are inherently permissible foods, as is the alcohol produced during fermentation. Any wine can be ‘kosher’, and some kosher consumers accept that they are. A biblical prohibition against ‘pagan wine’ ceased to be a problem in the first millennium, according to the rabbinic literature of the period, but social contact with non-Jews was an issue, so the ban on ‘non-kosher’ wines continued. ‘Cooked wine,’on the other hand, was permissible, even during social contact with non-Jews. Thus, ‘mevushal’ (cooked) wines became the standard until only recently. The reason behind this is subject to debate, and delving into that debate here is beyond the scope of this article. Besides, it would force me to examine why I can do tequila shots in a dark bar with my non-Jewish friends, but sitting down with them for a sedate dinner with wine is frowned upon. Needless to say, the cooking process sounds as if it will certainly make any wine taste “off” compared to typical non-mevushal wines. Yet, two important phenomena have occurred in the past two decades: flash pasteurizing, which maintains the essence of the flavor and qualities while superheating the wine, and the growth of wineries in Israel that are controlled and staffed by Orthodox Jews. These developments have allowed for an increased production of high quality, non-mevushal wines. I am good friends with José de Meirelles, the owner of and inspiration for the kosher New York bistro, Le Marais. He is not only a Master Chef, but also a wine connoisseur who enjoys traveling around in search of the best. At his restaurant, he has some of the very best mevushal wines (they must be

8

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

mevushal, because kosher certification agencies insist on it). In recent years, he has come to know Israeli and Spanish wines of the kosher variety, and now buys them for his own home. He once believed that kosher meat could not taste as good as the non-kosher equivalents he served at Le Marais’ sister eatery, Les Halles, the home of chef Anthony Bourdain. José perfected the aging process for Le Marais, and his food now ranks among the best eateries in its class. He also remembers a time when kosher wine was both undrinkable and unthinkable for non-Jews, but has come to greatly respect the wines made today. This contributes to his philosophy about wine marketing. When you go to most liquor stores that carry kosher wines the kosher wine is sectioned off, and few real wine lovers will pause in the kosher section. What a grand idea it would be for Israel’s wineries — or any kosher winery for that matter — to be displayed in the regional sections alongside their non-kosher peers. This is where my public relations and marketing background comes into play, alongside my enthusiasm for wines. Kosher wineries now make a bulk of their revenues from Jewish imbibers, particularly kosher consumers who enjoy good wines. That Jews are not big drinkers is a misconception, however the number of Jews who drink only kosher wines is limited, and that limits market share. Consumers who want to see kosher wine sales really soar and want to support Israel on a larger scale should work on a campaign to lessen the emphasis on kosher and increase the awareness of quality and the regions where these wines are made. There are few Israel-specific sections in wine stores across the United States, yet there are sections for most every other region where wine is made. Almost without exception, Israeli wines are found only among the kosher wines, and the kosher wines from every other country are relegated to that small section as well. Take that section away and feature Israel as a wine-producing nation unto itself among the other wine regions. Kosher wines should be grouped together within their respective regions, i.e. kosher Italian wines together, French, Spanish, and so on. This tactic could open consumers’ eyes not only to the myriad of choices available for kosher wines, but also make them aware of Israel’s rightful place in the world of quality wine. Kosher wineries such as Tura, Castel, and Recanati from Israel, Barons de Rothschild from France, and Elvi Wines and Celler de Capçanes from Spain, to name a few, are perfect for the tables and cellars of both wine connoisseurs and high-end restaurants. There is no reason for these delicious wines to be collecting dust in the ghettos of the liquor store.

Spring 2013


WINE WORKS Pairsine Chefs Food & Beer Competition, Wednesday June 12, 2013 Omni Interlocken Resort, Broomfield, Colorado, Tickets $75 to $125 Wine Country Network transforms into Beer Country Network once a year when they produce their signature culinary beer event. It challenges 10 top Colorado chefs to create 20 culinary pairings with the highest-scoring, awardwinning beers from the Denver International Beer Competition. All attendees vote for their favorite chef. New for 2013 is a VIP package including a special tasting with Spiegelau beer glasses and a spirit-laden VIP reception. VIPS keep the glassware ($59 value). http://pairsine-beer2013.eventbrite.com/#

Upcoming! Long Island Wine Country Spring VIP’s Public Day Tours Take a Sideways trip from Manhattan to America’s version of Bordeaux! Long Island wine country is a world-class destination located on the bucolic East End. Tours are highly educational and include luxury transportation, visits and private tastings at three exquisite wine estates, complete with a three-course gourmet restaurant lunch and a bon voyage charcuterie tasting. Cost: $159 per person. Rated Top 10 by Travel & Leisure magazine.

Save The Date! Denver International Wine Festival November 7-9, 2013 The premier annual international wine & food festival in the Rockies will enter its 9th season this fall. For information and tickets visit: www.denverwinefest.com

Available April 13, May 12 and June 15, 2013. Limited capacity. Order online or call 866-946-3268. http://longislandwinecountry.com/havbustickets.html

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

9


Spirited Chat Chopin Dorda Double Chocolate Liqueur, 18% abv, $25 Gold Medal Winner at The 2013 Denver International Spirits Competition A delicious blend of rich chocolate and Chopin vodka that tastes like a rich scoop of chocolate cake batter. Serve chilled and try it neat or over ice, mix it in your favorite cocktail recipe, or pour over ice cream! http://dordachocolate.com/

Spirit Hound Distillers Launches In Colorado! Colorado is one dog-loving state, so when craft distiller Spirit Hound opened in December in Lyons, Colorado, spirit lovers stepped up to the bar! The company is located in the tiny town of Lyons, which is north of Boulder along the road that leads to Rocky Mountain National Park. This is a must-stop before embarking on any camping or day trip. The cost of distilling has become much more affordable in the last decade ($3,000 vs. $50,000) which explains the explosive boom in the number of new distillers coming online every year. Colorado currently has 40 distilleries and growing. This drop in operational costs might explain the huge backlog for commercial stills. Co-founder and Distiller Craig Englehorn, a former beer maker, decided to design and make his own still when he learned that there was a two year waiting list for commercial stills. Current products include Spirit Hound Gin, Spirit Hound Whisky and Ricardo’s Coffee Liqueur, which won a Gold Medal at the 2013 Denver International Spirits Competition! Visit their tasting bar for one of their seven signature cocktails. Our standouts were the “Hot Ricky” and the classic “Aviation.” Spirit Hound Distillers 4196 Ute Highway (66) Lyons, CO 80540 Tel. (303) 823-5696 http://spirithounds.com/

10

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


BREW WORKS Breckenridge Brewery Expanding! Colorado’s Breckenridge Brewery has grown into one of the nation’s largest, fastest-growing craft breweries with 52,000 barrels produced in 2012. The company also operates five brewpubs throughout Colorado. Breckenridge Brewery recently announced that it is building a new $20 million brewing facility in Littleton, Colorado. For more information visit: http://www.breckbrew.com

Taos Mesa Brewing

Craft Beer Lovers Will Get Hoppy at New Zealand’s MarchFest! The 6th Annual MarchFest will be held on April 6th in Nelson, New Zealand. Known as the Kiwi Craft Beer Capital, Nelson is also New Zealand’s sole hop growing area and is sustainably cultivated. Nelson exports world class hops globally (including to the US) as well as supplying local breweries. Highlighting the South Island’s craft beers, regional cuisine and eclectic music, this unique event is the only beer festival in the Southern Hemisphere to commission a variety of beers specifically for the event by regional craft brewers. This year, a record 15 regional craft breweries are creating new pint blends for the occasion. See the list here: http://marchfest.com/15-craft-beers-available-marchfest

Spring 2013

Located in the outskirts of Taos near the Rio Grande River Bridge is a wonderfully funky microbrewery. Taos Mesa Brewing operates in a totally green building where they dish out a high-desert attitude with six to nine distinct beers on draught at all times. They also plan to feature fifteen regional craft beers to create an authentic taproom. Their outdoor patio is open year-round, weather permitting, and overlooks the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. A solar-powered greenhouse along the south face of the brewpub heats the entire building plus preheats water for brewing. Their rainwater collection formula captures more than 39,000 gallons of rainwater annually. The menu features light grub and a wide assortment of live musical acts plays almost nightly. 20 ABC Mesa Rd. El Prado, New Mexico Tel. (575) 758-1900 www.taosmesabrewing.com/

Nearby The General Store Bus parks near the Rio Grande River, so if you just happen to be taking a desert cruise you can make a convenient pit stop to pick up a pizza, a bag of ice or even some ammo. This unmistakable, quirky little shop was converted from an old school bus and repainted sky blue. A visit to the General Store Bus will give you the urge to visit Yasgur’s Farm!

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

11


DESTINATIONS

Layover: Paris District: Saint-Germain-des-Prés Sleep Hotel Observatoire Luxembourg *** This boutique hotel is located in a quiet area of the Latin Quarter across from the Luxembourg Gardens and around the corner from Notre Dame. Completely renovated in 2011, the rooms are well appointed. The accommodating staff goes the extra mile, assisting you with directions and restaurant reservations. Deluxe Double Room with air conditioning, free Wi-Fi and a great view of Boulevard Saint Michel approx. $210 USD.

107 Boulevard Saint Michel Paris 75005 http://www.observatoirehotel.com/en/

Dine Le Petit Zinc **** A wonderful seafood-centric bistro located on a quiet street with opulent, art deco interior with a menu that’s moderately priced for Paris. For starters, try the seared duck foie gras with fig chutney and fruit bread (€20) or the ”house” fish soup with rouille and croutons (€12), a dead ringer for Marseille bouillabaisse! The signature dish is a wild sea bass baked in earth stone (for two) that needs to be cracked with a hammer before eating (€40 pp). The wine list features wines from the Loire ranging from €21 to €65 per bottle.

Le Petit Zinc 11 Rue Saint Benoit 75006 Paris http://uk.petit-zinc.com

12

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


cooking the books In The Kitchen with the Pike Place Guys Authors: Pike Place Fish Guys Rating: Excellent Topics: Seafood and Cooking Format: Hardcover, 272 pages Price: $30 Webpage: http://www.us.penguingroup.com

ISBN- 9780670785520

Seattle’s world-famous fishmongers have produced a delicious new book that is all about fresh fish, how to prepare them, and sustainability. This resourceful guide includes 100 recipes and useful tips for scale-to-tail eating. The book is beautifully designed and loaded with great photography. There are even instructions on throwing fish just like a Pike Place Fish Guy! This book is a must for everyone’s kitchen!

Cooks, Clowns and Cowboys Authors: Lonely Planet Rating: Superb! Must Buy! Topics: Travel & Leisure Format: Softcover, 224 pages Price: $20 Webpage: www.lonelyplanet.com

ISBN- 9781743210215

This fun and witty book is all about unique experiences and adventures that can be had on your vacation. It is a virtual ‘bucket list’ manual for thrill seekers! Pack your bags and get ready to dig for dinosaurs in Patagonia, roast your own beans in Guatemala or distill a dram in Scotland. There are 101 unique skills and wild encounters to devour and fulfill in this fascinating book.

The Chefs Collaborative Cookbook Authors: Chefs Collaborative and Ellen Jackson Rating: Excellent Topics: Local Food Sources, Sustainability & Cooking Format: Hardcover, 224 pages Price: $40 Webpage: http://www.taunton.com ISBN- 978-1-60085-418-7 The Chefs Collaborative turns 20 this year! This leading nonprofit network of chefs, food professionals and producers are leading the revolution for quality and sustainable foods. The book includes 115 recipes from an impressive group of top chefs around the US and Canada. The recipes are well presented and emphasis is focused on the bounty of local flavors. Sections are organized by Vegetables, Fruits and Other Edible Plants, Meat and Poultry, Fish and Seafood, and Dairy and Eggs. In addition to many wonderful, delicious recipes, the book also includes great information on organic foods, sourcing and what to stock in your pantry.

The Compendium: Tasting the World’s Finest Wines - Volume 1 Authors: John Kapon Rating: Excellent Topics: Wine, Wine Tasting & Collecting Format: Hardcover, 256 pages Price: $75 Webpage: http://www.finewinebook.com/

ISBN- 10987654321

John Kapon is CEO of Acker Merrall & Condit, and has built his family business into the world’s largest fine and rare wine auction house and America’s oldest wine merchant. Kapon leads a dream life with access to the greatest wines on the planet. His new book shares his love of French and Italian wines, with mouthwatering photography, sensational tasting notes and easy-to-comprehend, straight-talking snapshots of the world’s greatest wines and their epic vintages. This is a must-have for every professional winemaker, wine journalist, serious hobbyist or collector.

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

13


Note: Photo of Chef Daniel Boulud, supplied by the Dinex Group

Passions and Portraits

14

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


DBGB Kitchen & Bar Story & Photos by Christopher J. Davies, Contributions by Chef Michael Long

DBGB Kitchen & Bar 299 Bowery, New York, NY 10003 Phone:(212) 933-5300 www.danielnyc.com/dbgb.html Daniel Boulud loosens his apron in the Bowery with an approachable and chic restaurant that fuses bistro with bangers. Sausage lovers rejoice! DBGB offers an astounding twelve different creative varieties of sausage, plus fantastic burgers, ultra-fresh shellfish platters, delectable desserts, and an extensive, eclectic selection of microbrews and wines. The Bowery neighborhood is littered with restaurant supply stores and used restaurant equipment pawn shops. The name is a play on CBGB, the iconic Bowery music venue that helped usher in the alternative and punk rock music scenes. The restaurant’s interior features a dazzling mirrored entrance peppered with interesting foodie and boozy quotes from historical luminaires like Thomas Jefferson and Winston Churchill. As one travels deeper into the welcoming room, the walls are lined with nooks, cubbyholes and crannies, each containing a gilded cooking vessel. These unique pans and tureens have been donated by and bear the names of renowned chefs such as Michel Bras, Thomas Keller, Jacques Pépin and Ferran Adrià, and are among Boulud’s richly talented contemporaries and mentors.

Our favorites menu items include: APPETIZERS CHARCUTERIE DE GILLES VEROT $16 Tasting of pâté, Jambon de Paris, rillettes, and fromage de tête with sourdough toast

SANDWICHES BEER-BATTERED COD SANDWICH $14 Toasted sesame seed bun, frisée, pickled red onion, and spicy Ranch dressing

MER & TERRE STEAMED PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND MUSSELS $19 Roasted tomato broth, shell beans, and pickled chili butter served with fennel-semolina bread

BURGERS THE FRENCHIE $17 6 oz. beef patty with confit of pork belly, arugula, tomato-onion compote & Morbier cheese on a peppered brioche bun with cornichons, mustard and fries

LINKS :: BANGERS :: SAUCISSES :: WIENERS :: TUNISIENNE $14 Spicy lamb & mint Merguez, lemon-braised spinach and chickpeas on a bun with mint yogurt, cucumber & red onion BOUDIN BASQUE $14 ***** Must Try! Blood and pig’s head sausage spiced with Espelette pepper, served with scallion mashed potatoes

Editor’s note: This blood sausage was served in a thick slice atop a creamy dollop of finely textured polenta. There was no trace of the grittiness sometimes associated with boudin noir and tender jewels of glistening fat gleamed on the surface.

THAI $14 Pork sausage flavored with lemongrass and red curry with green papaya, basil fried rice, chili sauce, and quail egg

Photo captions go here

Spring 2013

DBGB DOG $8 Homemade beef wiener, sautéed onion, mustard, ketchup, and DBGB’s signature 299 relish served with fries

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

15


Our tasting panel meets several times monthly to taste wines blind, thus providing unbiased evaluations of the newest wine releases. HOW WE RATE WINES Outstanding Excellent Good Tasty

16

Best Buy ratings are given for those wines that we feel offer exceptional quality for their price. Most “Best Buy” wines are $20 or less. “Best Wine” ratings distinguish exceptional quality wines of any price point, when compared with other similar wines. For each issue our editors sometimes share their impressions about wines that stand out in the tasting.

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Sparkling Wines, Sweet Barefoot Pinot Grigio Brut NV California $8 White Wines

Great Value!

Gérard Bertrand 2010 Crémant de Limoux Brut $14 Best Buy!

70% Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 10% Mauzac. Pale straw, medium-sized bubbles with medium persistence, distinct aromas of white mushrooms, marzipan, tree fruit (apple, pear skin), with a bitter, apricot pith finish. Aggressive mousse. Pair with Waldorf salad, warm brie with sautéed mushrooms, and Brussels sprouts. 11.5% abv.

Bagrationi 2007 Brut Reserve Georgia $26 Respectable Sparkler!

Chinebuli, Mtsvane, Tsitska. Méthode Champenoise. Bright medium lemon. Yeasty, waxy nose. Toffee, butterscotch, lemon curd, freshly roasted Brazil nuts. Creamy, rich, balanced acidity, and texturally pleasing. Persistent butterscotch finish. 13% abv.

Bagrationi 2007 Royal Cuvée Brut Georgia $38 100% Chinebuli. Méthode Champenoise. Bright medium gold, medium-sized bubbles with quick persistence; intense nose of caramel apple, brioche, also fresh golden apple, banana. Full bodied with crisp acidity, lacking some depth just on the back end. Very fresh bread ­-sourdough-flavors with high-toned lemon nuances. Best with buttery scallop or shrimp scampi dishes, fish with gastrique or beurre blanc to match acidity. 13% abv.

Mionetto Prosecco Treviso NV $11 Best in Class, Best Buy!

This is a great example of its style, with pale lemon and green tints, fresh and candied melon, peach, jasmine, green apple Jolly Rancher, and honeysuckle aromas and flavors. Fresh, medium bodied, soft, pleasant, with good persistence. 11% abv.

Spring 2013

Very pale straw, almost colorless, with large bubbles. Aromas and flavors of ripe red apple and honey; very soft with an off-dry taste. A great cocktail wine or as a canvas for cocktails. 11.5% abv.

Barefoot Moscato Spumante NV California $8 Best in Class, Best Buy!

Pale straw color. Fresh green apple plus apple skin aromas; very grapey and floral with additional notes of canned peaches. A touch of zing on the long, pleasant finish. Not cloying. A wine with mass appeal. (WD) 10.5% abv. “Gives Italian Asti a run for its money.” “Remarkably good for the price.”

Barefoot Pink Moscato Spumante NV California $8

Pale pink color. Fresh peach, red apple, rose petal, and fresh fennel aromas. Sweeter than their white Moscato, really fragrant and appealing to the masses. Incredibly drinkable. Long finish. 9.5% abv.

Zonin Asti Dolce NV $13 Best Buy!

Pale lemon color. Smells and tastes exactly like an orange creamsicle. Nice foamy texture, with pretty acacia and jasmine flavors. Quite sweet but fresh. 7.5% abv.

Zonin Baccorosa Dolce Vino Spumante NV $13 Best Buy!

Deep salmon color, interesting, fun complexity here, with aromas of blood oranges and roses, candied blood orange peel flavors, candied ruby grapefruit, orange pekoe tea, and hibiscus. Delicious on its own or for building cocktails. 7% abv.

Mionetto Spriz “Product of Italy” NV $11 Surprisingly Unique!

Watered-down electric orange color, ready-todrink take on the Aperol Spritz. Great for picnics or for busy hosts. Serve over ice garnished with green olives or an orange slice. 8% abv. “It’s the RTD for the hipster, should come packaged in a skinny jean canteen.” (WD)

Rosemount 2012 Moscato SE Australia $9 Best in Class, Best Buy!

Bright pale lemon color, with fresh jasmine, and spicy floral aromas along with fresh green grapes. A tangy, fun, upbeat, balanced, lightly fizzy refresher. 8.5% abv.

Lange Twins 2011 Moscato Clarksburg, CA Estate Grown $16 Best Wine!

Pale straw color. Intense rose perfume, orange blossom, white peach, unripe blood orange, fresh ruby grapefruit zest. A very distinctive, unforgettable style. Stands out. Off-dry but with quite high, bright acidity for balance, interest, and lift. A still wine, not pétillant like the other Moscatos. 11% abv.

Mionetto Cuvee Rosé “1887” Extra Dry NV Italy $15 Best Buy!

Bright medium salmon color. Tart, zesty, loaded with red fruits, like raspberry, fresh and dried cranberry, and pomegranate. Very barely extra dry. Lacking some intensity on the finish and has some phenolic grip. An intriguing apéritif wine, perfect with smoked salmon or game meats such as Lamb Merguez sausage with spiced yogurt, harissa, curry, or roasted game birds with fresh cherry sauce. 11.5% abv.

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

17


Biltmore Estate Blanc de Blancs Brut Sparkling NV North Carolina $25 Pale straw color, with aromas of Meyer lemon, crab apple, and green apple. On the palate, a persistent mousse and bright acidity with a fairly short finish. 12.5% abv.

Dry White Wines Martin Códax 2011 Albariño Rías Baixas $15 Best in Class, Best Buy!

Pale lemon color, medium body, white peach pit, lemon pith, saline, bracing minerality, begs for raw seafood doused with fresh lemon. Ever so slight yeasty note, excellent acid-weight balance. 12.5% abv.

Doria 2009 Luberon Grand Terroir $13 50% Vermentino, 50% Grenache Blanc, 5% Clairette, 5% Roussanne. Slightly past peak, otherwise would be elevated to 3.5 stars. Pale lemon color, with good intensity aromas of green plum, bay leaf, quince, and blanched almonds, with a slightly bitter phenolic finish. On the palate, additional flavors of white peach with a full, soft texture and decent length. We all agree we’d love to see this at peak freshness, upon release. 13% abv.

Standing Sun 2011 “Le Blanc” Santa Barbara $24 Great Splurge Wine!

45% Grenache Blanc, 35% Viognier, 20% Roussanne. Medium gold color. “This wine intrigues me.” (WD) Aromas of browned butter, toast, honey, nectarine, apricot, caramel, and gingerbread spice. Full bodied, moderate acidity, but balanced, fresh. Hedonistic style. Tasted @ 55°F yet surprisingly fresh and balanced, with well-integrated alcohol and oak. 14.3% abv.

Laguna 2010 Chardonnay “Laguna Ranch Vineyard” Russian River Valley $26 Bright, medium lemon color. Aromas of cream soda, spiced pear compote, toast/vanilla oak, mango. Full bodied with low acidity and a very creamy texture with that cream soda note coming through on the palate along with banana float. Super-ripe style, long finish. “The Marie Antoinette of Sonoma Chardonnay. Let them eat cake.” (WD) 14.5% abv. “The Marie Antoinette of Sonoma Chardonnay. Let them eat cake.” (WD)

Santiago Ruiz 2010 Albariño Rias Baixas $18

Almost water-white in color. Good, very classic, clean and crisp with medium body and a good creamy white peach flavor that lingers nicely. 13% abv.

Pascal Jolivet 2010 Sancerre $25 Pale lemon color. Hints of jasmine, asparagus and flint, with a slightly bitter lime peel note on the finish. It’s probably just starting to fade, the flavor intensity going away but the structure is there. For the price, it is a good representation of what Sancerre should be, and the latest, freshest vintage should prove a great value. 12.5% abv.

Banfi San Angelo Pinot Grigio 2011 Toscana IGT $18 Best Buy! Edna Valley 2011 Sauvignon Pale lemon color. Good effusive ripe fruit. Cantaloupe, red apple. Medium bodied, with a Blanc Central Coast $15 soft texture but a good line of acidity. This even Best Buy! shows a nice slight spiciness on the finish, often found when Pinot Gris/Grigio becomes quite ripe! Nice. 13% abv.

Masseria 2010 ‘Altemura’ Fiano Salento 2010 $13 Pale straw color with interesting almond (marzipan, even), honey and peach notes. Moderate acidity. Slightly oxidized on the finish, like a bruised apple. Sounds strange, but adds to the complexity and intrigue. Made for ricotta and hazelnut ravioli. 12.5% abv.

Rocca di Montemassi 2010 ‘Calasole’ Vermentino $14 Best Buy!

Pale lemon color. On the nose, the wine has an array of fun aromas - smoky, flinty, banana peel, and clementine. Good viscosity on the palate, quite lovely balance and length, with a sappy orange marmalade finish. Absolutely delicious. 12.5% abv.

Pale lemon color. Medium intensity aromas of green pepper, some ripe melon, and ruby grapefruit. There’s an opulence to the fruit; one would almost think this was from New Zealand except for that ripe melon fruit that comes sweeping across the finish, a tell-tale of California Sauvignon Blanc. Good acidity, good length, very well made and typical. Not blowsy. Fabulous with halibut and a mango-jalapeño salsa. 13.9% abv.

Stinson Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, Virginia $22 Fermented in concrete eggs with five months sur lie aging to impart richness. Pale lemon color. Smells like passion-fruit juice with a hint of herbaceousness and grapefruit compote, especially on the finish. Doesn’t have quite the length to propel it to 4 stars, but it does have a very pleasant aftertaste. Only 140 cases made. 13.5% abv. “This is a wine geek’s Sauvignon Blanc’ it’s a bit eccentric, but it’s lovely.”

“This wine intrigues me.” (WD)

18

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Louis Latour 2010 Montagny 1er Cru La Grande Roche $21 Best Wine!

100% Chardonnay. Bright, pale lemon. Aromas of roasted nuts, yeasty bread, with subtle notes of golden apples and pears. Medium bodied with a good, textural lees-y quality on the palate, balanced acidity and good length. For the price it really is a good representation of a lesser appellation in Burgundy. 13% abv.

Trivento 2011 Chardonnay Mendoza, Argentina $10 Great Value!

Pale lemon color. A very ripe, tropical, sweetlyfruited style. Aromas and flavors of pineapple, vanilla, white sugar frosting and spiced apple compote. Medium to full body but a little short. 14% abv. “Tastes like a wedding”

La Crema 2011 Monterey Chardonnay $17 Best Buy!

Medium, bright lemon color. Pretty and welldefined aromas of vanilla, browned butter, nectarine, tropical mango and perfume. Good texture with elegant flavors, well-integrated oak and acidity and a long, pleasing aftertaste. Well worth the few extra dollars. 13.5% abv.

Rose

Standing Sun 2011 Rosé Santa Barbara $20 Best in Class, Best Buy, Best Wine!

100% Grenache. Deep, bright pink. Wild strawberry jam, candied raspberry, tinges of herbs and white pepper. Incredibly true to varietal and style. Full bodied, with additional flavors of tangerine peel and a very long, fresh finish. 14.3% abv. “One of the best rosés I¹ve tasted all year” (WD) “That’s a hoss.” (NF)

Spring 2013

Marrenon 2010 Grand Toque Luberon Rosé $10 Great Value!

Pale salmon color. Aromas of coriander, sherbert and white pepper; lovely texture, vibrant finish. Try it with paella, mussels with chorizo, or saffron risotto.

Red Wines Mirassou 2011 Pinot Noir California $10 Great Value!

Bright medium ruby color with fresh red cherry, red raspberry and red plum aromas mingled with smoky oak and milk chocolate. Hints of cinnamon and red licorice on the finish. Good bistro wine, medium bodied and soft with pleasant fruit and decent length.

MacMurray 2009 Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast, Ca. $19 Best Buy!

Medium garnet color with distinguishable Pinot fruit, displaying forest floor and cranberry aromas with a savory, minerally finish and fine, powdery tannins. Subtle, but penetrating finish with orange peel and cardamom flavors. 13.9% abv. “A warm, fuzzy wine”.

Mirassou 2010 Merlot California $10 Great Value!

Deep ruby color with black plum, black cherry, and spiced chocolate aromas. Great varietal typicity with a soft texture in a fruit forward, inoffensive style.

Marrenon 2010 Grand Toque Luberon $10 Great Value!

80% Syrah, 20% Grenache. Medium ruby with garnet tints, peppery spice aromas, dried blueberry and somewhat hard tannins. Lacking fruit depth slightly, but should round out in 3-6 months. 13.5% abv.

Martin Códax 2010 ERGO Tempranillo Rioja $14 Best in Class, Best Buy!

Great blend of modern and traditional. Deep ruby color, with cranberry, black cherry relish, tree bark and wet autumn leaves on the nose. Dark and savory, packing a huge amount of flavor with “sanguine notes at the end”. (NF) Polished style that manages to stay true to varietal and regional character. Bright, juicy, fresh finish. 13.5% abv.

Gascón 2011 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $12 Best in Class, Best Buy!

Deep ruby color with purple tints, aromas of apple blossom, very floral style with violets and lilacs, boysenberry and blackberry fruit with coffee hints. Vibrant finish, long. 13.9% abv.

Alamos Selección 2010 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $20 Deep, bright ruby-purple, opaque core. Smoky, rubbery aromas, with wild black raspberry and blackberry. Deeply extracted, with loads of toasty oak and firm tannins. Slightly warm on the finish. 13.8% abv “Needs a fatty side of beef immediately.” (NF)

Ravenswood 2009 Zinfandel Lodi, Ca. $14 Best Buy!

Medium ruby-garnet with classic raspberry, blackberry and bramble notes with just a hint of raisin and vanilla oak. Decent length. Good quality. 14.5% abv.

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

19


Ravenswood 2010 Zinfandel Napa, Ca. $16 Best Wine!

Bright medium ruby. Pronounced nutmeg aromas with black pepper, black berry fruit, effusive, potent, well-structured. Needs a juicy, peppered ribeye. Bright finish keeps it real. Hint of licorice. Hold for about six months the oak to integrate. Excellent quality. 14.5% abv.

Ravenswood 2009 Zinfandel Sonoma, Ca. $16 Deep garnet. Fine perfume with red and black fruit, licorice, overripe strawberry and wild cherry. Very appealing nose. Grenache-like. Volatile. Massive mid-palate, gripping tannins, low acidity brings it down a notch. 14.5% abv.

Dry Creek Vineyards 2009 Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley, Ca. $16 Structured, with pervasive oak. Creamy. Lacking fruit definition slightly but a wellmade, masculine style.

Mirassou 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon California $10 Best Value, Best Buy!

Deep ruby. Black cherry, blackcurrant. 13.5% abv. “No surprises. Old Yeller wines. Dependable” (WD) “Shows exceptional definition and character for its variety and price point.” (NG)

Alamos 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza, Argentina $13

Louis Martini 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County $14 Best in Class, Best Buy!

Deep garnet color. Aromas of redcurrant, a slight bell pepper note, ripe tannins define the palate. Delivers creamy fruit, good length. Great for the price. Tasty finish, lovely with roasts. 13.8% abv.

Dry Creek Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon “The Endeavor” Dry Creek Valley, Ca. $50 Best Wine!

Driven by fresh, nicely ripe red and black currant and berry fruit. Good integration of oak on the palate. Sexy, pronounced nose. Big, sweet tannins. Complex, minty, Fernet Branca aroma. A potent, massively appealing wine. 14.5% abv. “The Sexpot” (WD)

Silkwood Petite Sirah “Que Sirah, Syrah” Lodi, Ca. NV $30 Slightly volatile nose, with coconut and espresso oak notes, good layers of jammy blackberry flavors, coffee and chicory on the palate. Not unlike a seven layer cookie. Great length. A well-made wine for those that appreciate this inyour-face style. 13.9% abv.

Spy Valley 2010 Pinot Noir Marlborough, New Zealand $23

Medium ruby color. A slight rubber note, but typical, with bright, deeply juicy black cherry and pomegranate flavors. Well-integrated, subtle use of oak. Good personality! 14% abv.

Deep, bright ruby. Generous black fruits, hints of tar, well-rounded tannins. 13.9% abv.

20

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Wild Horse 2010 Pinot Noir Central Coast, California $27

Medium ruby to garnet in color. Aromas of vanilla, red cherry, cola, and sweet tobacco. Good viscosity, a round texture, soft. Not terribly long but tasty. Classic California Pinot. 13.5% abv.

Angelini Pergola Rosso Marche, Italy $17 Best Buy! 100% Pergola Rosso. Pale-medium ruby color. Smells like a red Moscato. A conversationpiece wine. Like pure delicate roses, and freshly tanned leather. Long finish. A lady. 12.5% abv.

Tenuta Ca’Bolani 2010 Refosco Friuli $18 Best Buy!

Deep ruby color with magenta highlights. Aromas of ripe Bing cherries, huckleberries and graphite. Good structure, with big, wellmanaged tannins that call out for steak on the finish. 13% abv.

FontanaFredda 2010 Dolcetto Langhe DOC $16

Deep ruby color. Aromas of violets, dusty minerality, and sour cherry. On the palate, the wine has bright, cleansing acidity and grippy tannins - so typical of food-friendly Dolcetto. 13% abv.

Angelini 2008 Sangiovese Colli Pesaresi DOC Marche, Italy $17 Pale garnet color. Light aromas, of savory porcini mushrooms and aged cheese. Moderate tannins and body, with fairly low acidity for Sangiovese. A good, well-made wine, but we’d all love to taste the latest, freshest vintage. 13.5% abv.

Spring 2013


Castello Banfi 2007 Brunello di Gérard Bertrand 2008 Grand Montalcino $52 Terroir Cotes du RoussillonBest Wine! Villages Tautavel $19 Medium garnet color. An unmistakably Italian Best Wine! nose with clear pedigree. Aromas and flavors of sour cherry, allspice, freshly shaved chocolate, and fresh, pungent tobacco. The burly tannins show that this wine is young even for an ’07, but will drink well now with a hearty meal. Good length. Good value Brunello. 14.5% abv.

A blend of 50% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 15% Carignan. Deep ruby color. Pronounced aromas of wild raspberry, garrigue, dark chocolate, and anise. Lush texture, moderate acidity, and a lingering, balanced finish. Very nice. Bring out the leg of lamb! 14% abv.

Castello Banfi 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura $52 Best Wine!

Gérard Bertrand 2010 ‘Cigalus’ Vin de Pays d’Oc $50 Best Splurge Wine!

Deep garnet color. Mocha-cherry, menthol and pine notes. Clearly a very highly-extracted wine with long hang time and ample new oak. The acid-alcohol balance is a bit off. For fans of a hedonistic, super-ripe style. 15% abv.

Castello Banfi 2009 Belnero Proprietor’s Reserve Toscana IGT $32 Deep ruby-garnet color. Almost exclusively Sangiovese, fermented and aged in new French oak for 14 months. Deep ruby color. Saturated with eucalyptus, coffee, and dark, jammy red fruit aromas and flavors with a rich texture and long finish. 15% abv.

Bodegas 2009 Lan Rioja Crianza $13 Medium garnet color. Not overly oaky, with aromas of earth, mushroom, and dried red cherry. Mediumbodied and softly textured. Great for pork chops with scalloped potatoes. 13% abv.

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot from the Domaine Cigalus estate. Demeter Certified Biodynamic. Aged 12 months in new French oak. Opaque ruby color. Really dense, with intense cassis, toasted coconut, sweet vanilla oak. Huge wine, very layered. Needs time for oak to integrate (6 months – 1 year), but has a very long and complex life ahead. Impressive. 14.5% abv.

Gérard Bertrand 2010 Corbières $15 Best Buy!

Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Deep, bright ruby. Expressive aromas of blackberry jam, some anise, bramble, and dark minerality. Quite sweet and figgy with mediumfull body but not very long on the finish. 13.5% abv.

Paul Jaboulet Ainé 2007 Crozes-Hermitage ‘Les Jalets’ $21 Bright medium-deep ruby color. Aromas of smoke vanilla, blueberry, and bacon. Nice texture with additional notes of lilacs on the palate. Good, fine tannins and lovely equilibrium on the finish. Wonderful for peppered, grilled meats and sausages. 13% abv.

Vidal Fleury 2010 CrozesHermitage $21 Great Value!

Very deep ruby, bright color. This displays more of a cured meat quality than the Jaboulet, and additional notes of rubber and toast. The bright acidity, cured meat and black pepper typicité really come through on the palate. Textbook. Should age beautifully for 5-7 years. 13% abv.

Stinson Vineyards 2010 Meritage Virginia $32

40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, 15% Petit Verdot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fermented and aged in French oak (30% new) for 18 months. Deep ruby color. Aromas and flavors of coffee, eucalyptus, dark chocolate, black plums and blackberries. Medium to full body with toasty oak tannins on the finish. Better with a good meal than on its own. Only 130 cases produced. 14.7% abv.

O Fournier 2008 ‘B Crux’ Uco Valley, Argentina $24

M. Chapoutier 2009 ‘La Ciboise’ Luberon $11 Deep ruby-garnet. Displays aromas very typical of Grenache – youthful, strawberry jam, white pepper. The texture, too, is very Grenache-like – big and soft with low acidity. Good cocktail wine. 14.5% abv.

60% Tempranillo, 35% Malbec, 10% Merlot. Deep garnet color. Quite ripe dark red and black fruits and toasty oak with full body and massive tannins. The fruit has a somewhat dried, raisined quality but overall the wine has a completeness and good length. 15% abv.

December 17, 2012 Panelists Christopher Davies, Wine Writer, Editor-in Chief & Co-Founder of Wine Country International Magazine Natalie Guinovart, DWS CWE FWS CS, Wine Writer and Educator William Davis, CSS, CWE, Terroir Radio, Court of Master Sommeliers (Master Candidate) the WSET-Certified Terri Hamilton DWS CWE Brandon Tebbe CWE MS Ashley Hausman Vaughters CSW CS Michelle Bainbridge, President, American Wine Society, Denver Chapter Lisa Graziano Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

21


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

22

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


50Shades of

Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Grenache!

Planning a wine-filled European vacation this year, but can’t decide whether to go to Spain or France? No problem – the answer is Roussillon, where Spain and France are joined at the hip. Officially part of the Languedoc-Roussillon region, its epicenter is the city of Perpignan, located just one and a half hours north of Barcelona and 135 miles southwest of Marseille. This wine-lover’s paradise in the Pyrénées-Orientales was once part of Catalonia, Spain, and this is reflected in the region’s Catalan dialect, food, and its magnificent Roussillon wines. Simply put, Perpignan embodies all aspects of the Catalan lifestyle. Story Christopher J. Davies, Edited by Natalie Guinovart, Photos by Christopher J. Davies and Darcy Davies Roussillon is an Old World region guided by energetic, young, and progressive winemakers who respect their vines and nature. The cuisine is logically Mediterranean, featuring ultra-fresh seafood, plump with tapas, gazpacho, organic vegetables and rustic meat dishes. Perpignan is home to a diverse array of high quality restaurants serving up both traditional and modern takes on the Catalan culinary scene.

Roussillon is a boutique wine region, accounting for just 2% of France’s overall wine production. Utilizing a host of native grape varieties such as Grenache (Noir, Blanc, and Gris), Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Carignan, Roussillon produces an impressive and robust range of dry red, white, and rosé wines in the Côtes du Roussillon appellation, and rich, spicy reds in the Côtes du Roussillon Villages appellation, which may appendage a qualifying village name to the label.

This ancient growing area is one of the sunniest regions in France. It’s extremely dry with an annual average rainfall of 22 inches, 40% less than Bordeaux. The Mediterranean Sea and Pyrénées Mountains converge in Roussillon, and its amphitheater shape traps the seven strong winds that influence the area. This provides a cool, dry environment for grapevines, ensuring a long, steady ripening season which grapes require to produce the best quality wine.

The region is also famous for its Vins Doux Naturels (VDN for short), which are fortified sweet wines found in the appellations of Banyuls, Maury, and Rivesaltes, with styles ranging from white, red, oxidized, and non-oxidized. The Banyuls appellation even has a Grand Cru status for their best wines, which age into immensely complex beauties. It can be said that VDN’s are France’s delicious alternative to Port. Banyuls also produces formidable dry wines labeled and sold under the Collioure appellation.

View from Domaine La Tour Vielle

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

23


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon Travel Tips

It’s easy to see why Roussillon stands out as Southern France’s most intriguing wine region. The impressive selection of wines offers something for every palate, meal, or occasion. Because of its long winegrowing tradition, the region is home to a vast collection of old vines ranging from 30 to an impressive 120 years old. Wine Country International ® editors visited the region during the throws of the 2012 harvest. We examined gnarled, old Grenache Noir (Black) and Grenache Gris (Grey) bush vines that were reminiscent of old Zinfandel vines found in Lodi, California. The 2012 Roussillon harvest was dry and warm which produced smaller yields with great concentration of flavors. The wines of Roussillon are slightly more expensive than wines from other parts of the Languedoc, which tend to be more volume-driven. Yet they offer exceptional price-to-quality value when stacked against other, more famous French wine regions like Bordeaux or Burgundy. The good news is that many of these wines are starting to be imported into the US with distribution in major markets. We have seen a fair assortment of Roussillon bottles on wine lists in Denver, and larger selections are available in New York, Florida and California. After exploring the region, we are convinced that there are at least 50 shades of Grenache. This varietal has more offspring than an army of rabbits! Perhaps it’s because of the vast range of sexy and seductive aromas and flavors and long finishes that Grenache is capable of. While it’s clear that this grape is King, there are fourteen other white and red varieties that should not be overlooked, and many make great blending partners with Grenache. Keep an eye out for wines from Roussillon at your favorite restaurant or wine shop. You will be pleasantly surprised to discover how delicious they are!

Downtown Perpignan’s Medevil District

24

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


How To Get There As there are no direct flights from the US to Perpignan, you will need to connect in Paris. Flights to Perpignan are only available from Paris, Orly airport. If you fly from the US to Charles de Gaulle (CDG), you will need to transfer to Orly. Taxis are quickest (45 minutes) but will cost about $120 USD. You can take the Air France Transfer Bus for approximately $27 USD. Naturally, you should count your transfer time into your travel schedule. Another alternative is to connect to Perpignan by rail, a five-hour journey from Paris. The Gare de Perpignan rail station is just a five-minute bus or taxi ride to the city center. Flight duration from Paris to Perpignan: 1 hour, 20 minutes Perpignan–Rivesaltes Airport, also known as Llabanère Airport, is only 15 minutes from Perpignan city center.

Where to Stay Ratings for the following accommodations are those of the hotel. Prices listed are in $USD, per night for double occupancy and may fluctuate depending on the season.

Hotel Mas des Arcades *** 840 Avenue d’Espagne, Perpignan, 66000 France Tel : +33 4 68 85 11 11 This is a nice hotel outside of the city center with a great, accommodating staff. It features a fantastic restaurant with a creative dinner menu, and a wonderful pool and hot tub to relax after a long day of winery tours. The rooms are clean but could use some renovations and modernization. $96 - $120 http://www.hotel-mas-des-arcades.fr/

Hotel La Fauceille **** 860 Chemin de la Fauceille, Perpignan, 66000 France Tel: +33 4 68 21 09 10 One of the highest guest-rated hotels in Perpignan, located away from the city center, this property boasts a pool, fitness room and modern appointments. $94-$120 http://www.lafauceille.com/

Grand Hotel les Flamants Roses **** 1 Voie Des Flamants Roses, Canet-en-Roussillon, 66140 France Tel: +33 4 68 51 60 60 This is the place to stay if you want a breathtaking Mediterranean view! Conveniently located in Canet-en-Roussillon (7 miles from Perpignan city center) with quick access to Canet Beach and SaintCyprien Golf Club, guests may enjoy the sparkling pool, two terrific restaurants on the property and an easy stroll to the beach. $186-$250 http://www.hotel-flamants-roses.com/ There are many other excellent hotels located in the Perpignan city center. Prices range from $65 to $250 per night.

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

25


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon Travel Tips

26

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Where To Eat La Galinette, Perpignan- Best Splurge Restaurant! 23 Rue Jean Payra, 66000 Perpignan, France Tel: +33 4 68 35 00 90 This Michelin-starred restaurant has the reputation for being the best restaurant in Perpignan. La Galinette is the brainchild of the young and creative Chef Christophe Comes. The food quality and presentation is outstanding, while service at this small restaurant can be strained when they are busy - which is almost all the time! Reservations highly recommended. $$$$ EXPENSIVE Restaurant La Table du Mas - Great Value 840 Avenue d’Espagne, 66000 Perpignan, France Tel: +33 4 68 85 11 11

Photos from Michelin -Starred Restaurant La Galinette, Perpignan. (L to R) Seafood platter with truffles, Chef Comes in his orange grove, Orange Parfait, table for two, beautiful chandelier made from stainless steel pans and utensils. All photos on this page were provided by Restaurant La Galinette, Perpignan

Located in the Hotel Mas des Arcades in Perpignan, this restaurant delivers surprisingly delicious and distinctive cuisine for a 3-star hotel! Order à la carte or select their Menu du Terroir for €35. The selection includes a tapas plate with meats, cheeses and mussels, ‘Foie Gras Maison’ served with chutney, grilled vegetables, beef filet with mushroom foam and au gratin potatoes. Top that off with a delectable slice of chocolate cake with ice cream and raspberry sauce! $$$ MODERATE-HIGH http://www.hotel-mas-des-arcades.fr/ Restaurant La Table d’Aimé – Best Winery Restaurant! Located at Domaine Cazes 4 Rue Francisco Ferrer, 66600 Rivesaltes, France Tel: +33 04 68 34 35 77 This excellent wine cellar setting and romantic hotspot features delicious organic, fresh, local ingredients paired with Domaine Cazes wines. The menu was inspired by the recipes of the owner’s grandmother. Fresh asparagus ‘feuilletés’ (asparagus enveloped in puff pastry and creamy cheese sauce), ‘bullinada’ of angler and mussels (a traditional Catalan fish casserole), roasted duck breast with figs, braised young rabbit with tomatoes and basil, and a scrumptious peach gratin are just a few of the popular dishes here, all carefully paired with Cazes wines. $$ REASONABLE-MODERATE http://www.cazes-rivesaltes.com/en/Restaurant-La-Table-dAime/ Al Tres - Best Local Catalan Culinary Experience! 3 Rue de la Poissonnerie, 66000 Perpignan, France Tel: +33 4 68 34 88 39 Finding this restaurant is a bit of an exploration, as they are located down a narrow alley, but the amazing Catalan cuisine and top Roussillon wine selection is worth the search. Seafood lovers rejoice! Razor clams, saffron soup with clams, ragout of St. Jacques and sweetbreads and elegant fruit soup are just a selection of standouts! $$$$ EXPENSIVE

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

27


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon Travel Tips Where To Eat Restaurant Le Don Quichotte Top Destination Restaurant! 22 Avenue de Catalogne, 66140 Canet-en-Roussillon, France Tel: +33 4 68 80 35 17 Located on the main road in Canet just a short drive from the beach, this small restaurant is decorated with modern and clean finishes. Chef Gilbert Gris uses only ultra-fresh ingredients and turns out honest French cuisine. A lunch at Le Don Quichotte can be an epic culinary experience featuring beet salad, foie gras, lobster with cold vegetable broth, beef filet with roasted potatoes and French green beans, and an exquisite cheese course accompanied by fresh pear and apricot jam, and Roussillon cream with fruit compote. All dishes are expertly paired with Roussillon wines. $$$-$$$$ HIGH http://www.ledonquichotte.com/en/index.html Le Grain de Folie - Intimate, Eclectic 71 Avenue du Général Leclerc, 66000 Perpignan, France Tel: +33 4 68 51 00 50 An intimate restaurant seating only 30 guests, Le Grain de Folie creates a very unique experience with a fixed menu based on the chefs’ daily selection. Choose from a set menu (€28 for two courses or €33 for three, with several options to choose from), and a Menu du Jour (€14.50 for two courses or €18 for three, with set dishes). Entrées include beef filet with mushroom sauce, sea bass or lamb, but may vary depending on what’s in season. The foie gras starter is a must and the “adult” desserts are not to be missed. This gem of a restaurant offers excellent presentation, delicious food and great value for the money! $$ - $$$ MODERATE

Domaine St. Sébastien RestaurantSpectacular Seaside view! 10 Avenue du Fontaulé, 66650 Banyuls-sur-Mer, France Tel: +33 4 68 88 30 14 A great wine-themed culinary experience with a view of the Mediterranean! The restaurant building also houses the winery tasting room where you can taste and purchase wine. The menu is light and easy with a tapas-style slant, featuring Catalan favorites like sardines with red peppers and basil, Spanish chorizo, fried prawns with zucchini and basil, chocolate ice cream with biscotti, white-frosted Roussillon cookie, chocolate mousse, and warm apple & fig tart. $$ MODERATE http://www.domaine-st-sebastien.com/?Le-Restaurant

28

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Photos at Restaurant Le Don Quichotte, Canet-en-Roussillon. (L to R) Foie Gras paired with a Roussillon VDN wine, Lobster & Seafood stew in broth, Chef owner Gilbert Gris, Baked Custard with fresh fruit,

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

29


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Photos (L to R) Winemaker Dennis Ferrer, Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir vines, Grenache Noir cluster

30

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Strains of Grenache Grenache is a very old grape variety, and over the centuries it has spontaneously mutated in the vineyard to create new, distinct strains. The three most commonly found in Roussillon are Grenache Noir (France’s second most widely planted grape variety) Grenache Blanc, and Grenache Gris. You will see these strains appear throughout our tasting notes, so we have provided a little background on the many iterations of this wonderful variety!

Grenache Noir

This vine is noted for its ability to withstand heat and drought, making it perfectly suited to the Mediterranean climate. There are roughly 232,000 acres of Grenache Noir found here. It produces round, lush wines with typical flavors of strawberry and white pepper. It is rarely found on its own in this region, as it ripens to very high sugar levels and can often be quite sweet-tasting and jammy. Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carignan are common blending partners with Grenache, adding structure, fragrance, balance, and length.

Grenache Blanc

This strain of Grenache produces full-bodied, richly textured, floral white wines. It is a major player in the white wines of the Roussillon region, and, like its red counterpart, is often blended with other varieties (Clairette, Roussanne, Macabeu, and Grenache Gris) to give balance and complexity. It is also an important component of Vins Doux Naturels such as those from Maury, Rivesaltes, and Banyuls. There are currently around 12,000 acres planted to Grenache Blanc in France, nearly all in the Roussillon region.

Grenache Gris

“Grey” Grenache is a grey-pink tinged strain that produces deeply colored white wines. Only about 4,000 acres are planted to this minor variety; however, in the right hands it can make powerful and fragrant wines. It is generally blended with Grenache Blanc or Macabeu, but a few producers make a varietal (100%) Grenache Gris.

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

31


Feature : Travel Hot Spots

The Roussillon region is referred to as French Catalonia. Its culture is inspired more by Barcelona than Paris. To see all of its ancient towns and seaside villages would take weeks! Here are a few of the highlights. 32

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Collioure This ancient, small, port city lies on the Mediterranean. In the early 20th century, Collioure was a gathering place for artistic luminaries such as Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí and André Derain. Many artists have been inspired by Collioure’s Royal Castle and the medieval Notre-Dame-desAnges, a lighthouse converted into a church, surrounded by the glittering Mediterranean Sea. Dotted around the beach and harbor are metal frames that capture views which famous artists have painted. The harbor and beach are full of “Kodak moments” so be sure to bring your camera. A stroll through the town will uncover quaint cafés, shops that sell chocolate, pastries, world-famous Roussillon anchovies in large round cans, and several wine shops. Visit for an afternoon or take it all in over several leisurely days.

Michelin-Starred Restaurants La Balette Water View Rte de Port-Vendres F - 66190 Collioure Cuisine: Catalan Tel: +33 4 68 82 05 07 http://www.relaisdestroismas.com Les Palmiers 33 av. Louis et Michel Soler F - 66470 Laroque-des-Albères Cuisine: Modern Tel: +33 4 68 89 73 61 http://www.lespalmiers.eu

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

33


Feature : Travel Hot Spots

Castelnou Castelnou is a lovely village located about 20km southwest of Perpignan. It is set amongst rolling hills and in the shadow of a medieval castle above. Vicomtal Castle was built in 990 and its fortified walls and eight towers are remarkably well preserved. As you walk through the fortified walls of the castle, you are transported back in time. The walk within the castle is steep at certain parts as you stroll past gift shops and restaurants. Make sure to visit the castle and the Church of Santa Maria del Mercadal. Check out the spectacular view of Mont Canigou and the village from the parking lot atop the castle hill, and be sure to purchase a bottle of the Château’s delicious wine. Château de Castelnou 66300 Castelnou, France Tel: +33 4 68 53 22 91 http://www.chateaudecastelnou.fr/

34

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Perpignan The second-largest city in Languedoc-Roussillon is clearly the region’s epicenter with a bustling, modern city center, an airport, and four daily train connections to and from Paris, Barcelona, and throughout the local region. Frequent bus service is also available to take you from the city center to the nearby beach resort town of Canet (€4), only six miles away. Top city attractions include the Cathédrale de Saint-Jean-Baptiste, built in a CatalanGothic style, the Museum of North Catalonia History Joseph DeloncleCastillet, and the old historic walled Perpignan gates. The locals are very friendly and accommodating. Perpignan is also a great city for shopping as well as dining on fine Catalonian cuisine! For information, visit the official tourism website: http://www.perpignantourisme.com Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

35


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Domaine Vaquer

This small, family-owned winery is located in the tiny village of Tresserre, just twenty miles inland from the Mediterranean Sea. The domaine is run by Ms. Frédérique Vaquer who took the reins after her husband’s untimely death five years ago. The tasting cellar is conveniently located near several small shops. The family has 55 hectares (136 acres) under vine, mostly planted to Syrah, Grenache Noir and Carignan. We tasted the delicious range of wines and enjoyed a variety of cheeses with the proprietress in an historic building (built in 1908) high atop the vineyard. A native of Burgundy, Ms. Vaquer is warm and friendly, taking extra steps to guide you through her unique estate wines. Annual production is 150,000 bottles.

Domaine Vaquer 2 Rue des Écoles, 66300 Tresserre, France Tel: +33 4 68 38 89 53

Domaine Vaquer 2011 Esquisse, Côtes du Roussillon $12 Domaine Vaquer 2011 Rosé Cuvée Bernard Vaquer, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $20 Domaine Vaquer 2010 L’Exception, Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres $25

36

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine Cazes

Established in 1895, this family business has 220 hectares (543 acres) under vine. Domaine Cazes is the largest producer of wine in Roussillon, and France’s largest Certified Organic and Biodynamic vineyard! A visit to their estate is quite impressive, with modern tasting facilities and a destination restaurant, Restaurant La Table d’Aimé, on the property. Cazes produces 13 wines categorized under “Pleasure” (everyday drinking wines) and “Prestige” (celebratory, special occasion wines). They also partner with several other growers and winemakers that they feel have the best Catalan soils and market under their brand.

Domaine Cazes 4 Rue Francisco Ferrer, 66600 Rivesaltes, France Tel: +33 4 68 64 08 26 http://www.cazes-rivesaltes.com/ US Importer: Robert Kacher Selections www.robertkacherselections.com

Domaine Cazes 2011 Le Canon du Maréchal Blanc, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $11 Domaine Cazes 2011 Le Canon du Maréchal Rosé, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $11 Domaine Cazes 2011 Le Canon du Maréchal Rouge, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $11

.

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

37


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Domaine Ferrer-Ribière Located in the foothills of Canigou, 15 kms southwest of Perpignan in the heart of Aspres and the territories of Terrats and Fourques are the vineyards of Domaine Ferrer-Ribière and IT GROUP. 44 hectares of vineyards located among different territories with complementary features explain the nature and complex quality of the wines. The domaine was established in 1993 by winemaker Denis Ferrer and Bruno Ribière, a former trade union executive. In 2007 they launched the full conversion of their vineyards to organic growing standards. During the same year they entered into a partnership with IT Hotels Resorts and Spas, agreeing to allocate 10 hectares of their estate to the resort. The domaine produces a broad range of more than 17 wines plus one Vins Doux Naturels (VDN) wine.

Domaine Ferrer-Ribière 20 Rue du Colombier, 66300 Terrats, France Tel: +33 4 68 53 24 45 http://www.vinsferrerribiere.com/ US Importer: Dionysos Imports www.dionysosimports.com

38

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine Ferrer-Ribière 2010 Carignan, Empreinte du Temps, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $19

Domaine Ferrer-Ribière 2009 Grenache Blanc, Empreinte du Temps, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $19

“Meli-Melo of The Sun” Salad

Directions

By Bruno Ribière, Co-Proprietor of Domaine Ferrer-Ribière, Roussillon, France

Use a vegetable peeler to remove the skin from the zucchini. Slice the zucchini in a food processor using a julienne disc. This will produce thin spaghetti-like strands of zucchini. Slice the strands into small 1/4 inch portions. Place raw zucchini into salad bowls.

A refreshing dish that is easy to prepare and will make you and your guests ask for more! TIME: 20-25 minutes YIELD: 4 appetizer portions

Ingredients Domaine Ferrer-Ribière 2010 Cuvée F, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes $10

• • • • •

Spring 2013

2 medium zucchini 1 link soft Spanish chorizo, ‘picante’ (spicy) or ‘dulce’ (sweet), thinly sliced 1/2 lb. small shrimp (20-30 count), cleaned and devined, shells and tails removed 1/2 lb. Manchego cheese, shredded 1/4 cup balsamic vinaigrette, homemade or bottled

Heat 4 tbs. of olive oil in a medium pan over medium heat. Add chorizo and sauté for about 3 minutes, then the add shrimp and sauté for another 3 minutes. Both should be cooked through. Add one tablespoon of balsamic vinaigrette to each zucchini salad then distribute evenly with chorizo-shrimp mixture. Toss to coat with vinaigrette. Top with shredded Manchego cheese for a burst of additional flavor.

Wine Pairings: Bruno Ribière suggests, “We need strong wine aromas and powerful structure in the mouth, like a creamy white Grenache Blanc or Grenache Gris, or Vino Rancio, a mellow wine without excessive acidity. A powerful Rosé from Roussillon may also be very well suited. All of these wines are available from Domaine Ferrer-Ribière”.

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

39


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Romuald Perrone, proprietor

40

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine St. Sébastien

The domaine is owned by Romuald Peronne, an energetic thirty-something proprietor with a long-term philosophy on winemaking. This entrepreneur also owns a popular seaside restaurant that houses a tasting room and wine shop. Specializing in estate-grown fruit from a vineyard set on a cliff above the Mediterranean Sea, this property features mostly old vines with an average age of 75 years. New inter-plantings began last year to supply increased demand for their wines. There are two distinct ranges: ‘Empreinte’ is for Grenache (Noir, Blanc, or Gris) wines only with little to no oak influence meant for enjoying in their youth, while the ‘Inspiration’ line is for signature blends with more oak influence and longevity. Domaine St. Sébastien crafts its wines from 14 acres in the acclaimed, designated appellation of Collioure. This area is regarded as one of the best red wine producing regions in all of Languedoc-Roussillon. The organically-tended vines sit on steeply terraced slopes, which can only be harvested by hand. France’s strict appellation laws do not allow for irrigation, which makes grape growing very difficult due to low precipitation levels and extremely dry terrain. This factor, combined with old vines, gives naturally low yields, resulting in wines of great quality and clear expression of terroir. The 2012 vintage was smaller than usual and resulted in concentrated wines.

Domaine St. Sébastien 2011 Empreintes, Collioure $25

Domaine St. Sébastien 2011 Inspiration Marine, Collioure $55

Domaine St. Sébastien 2011 Empreintes, White Banyuls $25

Current production is 60,000 bottles, 40,000 of which are Collioure AOC (dry, still wines) and 20,000 bottles Banyuls AOC (Vins Doux Naturels).

Click to watch video

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

41


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

42

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine St. SĂŠbastien

Photos (L to R) Chocolate custard, berry tart, local fried seafood, peppers & anchovies tapas, grape sorting at the winery, newly harvested grenache grapes and wine display at the tasting room.

http://www.domaine-st-sebastien.com/

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

43


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Domaine Lauriga

Situated in the ancient Aspres terroir this estate has deeply rooted winemaking traditions. Confusingly, some of their cuvées are labeled as Château Lauriga.

Domaine Lauriga Traverse de Ponteilla, 66300 Thuir, France Tel: +33 4 68 53 26 73 Domaine Lauriga 2011 Muscat SEC, Vin de Pays d’Oc €6

Domaine Lauriga 2008 Cuvée Prestige René Clar, Côtes du Roussillon €37

Château Lauriga 2009 Muscat de Rivesaltes €12

Gérard Bertrand

A world-famous rugby player and enormously successful wine producer, Gérard Bertrand is the owner of seven French wine estates. He is considered the ambassador of super-premium, organic wines from the Languedoc. Bertrand also succeeded in creating key partnerships with other winemakers in the region to enhance the premium quality of LanguedocRoussillon wines. His seven estates have a staggering combined total of 470 hectares (1,110 acres) under vine. The end result is a wide range of varieties that reflect the distinctive terroirs and captivating array of wine styles that are possible from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Estates: Domaine de Villemajou, Corbières-Boutenac (132 ha / 320 acres) Château l’Hospitalet, Coteaux-du-Languedoc (79ha / 200 acres) Château Laville Bertrou, Minervois-La-Livinière (70 ha / 160 acres) Domaine de l’Aigle, near Limoux (29 ha / 60 acres) Domaine Cigalus, Vin de Pays d’Oc (60 ha / 140 acres) Château Aigues Vives, Corbières Boutenac (30ha/ 60 acres) Domaine La Sauvageonne à Saint Jean de la Blaquière (70ha / 170 acres) For more information visit: http://www.gerardbertrandwines.com

44

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine Gauby

Domaine Gauby is situated in and around the tiny, bucolic Roussillon town of Calce. Gérard Gauby took over the reins in the 1980’s and has spearheaded the conversation of his vineyards, utilizing biodynamic principals. Gauby wines loosely follow the Burgundian quality hierarchy model: villages, premier cru and grand cru. Wines are produced from Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Muscat, Macabeo, Chardonnay and Carignan Blanc. The reds are produced from Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Some of the olde vines for the Vieilles Vignes wines are over 125 years old! http://www.domainegauby.fr/

Domaine Des Soulanes

This estate was owned by one family since the beginning of the last century. After working with the past owners for 15 years, Daniel Laffite and his wife Kathy purchased the domain in 1999. They renamed it Domaine des Soulanes, which means hillside with southern exposure. Daniel Laffite is a passionate winemaker. He makes some of the best bold, rich, velvety reds from the Maury area. Domaine des Soulanes farm organically and produce wines from Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. All pruning and harvest is done by hand. http://www.domaine-soulanes.com/

Domaine Gardies

Jean Gardies is a promising young winemaker who took over his family’s domaine several years ago and has gradually increased plantings and wine production. Nestled in the foothills of Corbières, Domaine Gardies has a unique terroir of black schist and limestone. This, combined with the sweeping Mediterranean winds, makes for exceptional growing conditions. Jean Gardies produces great wines that reflect the flavors of Roussillon. His wines are not currently available in steady supply in the US. This is a winemaker to watch. We are hopeful that Domaine Gardies will secure adequate US distribution in the near future. http://www.domaine-gardies.fr/

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

45


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

46

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine Lafage Domaine Lafage is a premium wine producer that has expanded to more than 200 hectares (nearly 500 acres), including stretches of heath and pine. 138 hectares are planted to wine grapes. Lafage has two distinct estates covering three terroirs: the Agly region, the Perpignan region, and the Aspres region, all with vastly different soil types and climatic influences. These different terroirs are a mosaic for the different Grenache strains (Noir, Blanc, and Gris), and provide plenty of blending options. Owners Jean-Marc Lafage and Eliane Salinas-Lafage are seasoned wine professionals with global experience. Jean-Marc’s grandfather was from Maury, a top Roussillon wine area where VDNs and bush vines are common. The Domaine Lafage estate is mainly planted to Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Eliane Salinas-Lafage is the chief winemaker, while Jean-Marc handles business operations. Domaine Lafage’s #1 market is the US.

Domaine Lafage 2011 Centenaire, Côtes du Roussillon $16

Domaine Lafage 2011 La Grande Cuvée Rosé, Côtes du Roussillon $16

Domaine Lafage 2010 Cuvée Lea, Côtes du Roussillon Les Aspres $20

Domaine Lafage Mas Miraflors, Route Canet, 66000 Perpignan, France Tel: + 33 4 68 80 35 82 http://domainelafage.free.fr/ US Importer: Eric Solomon Selections www.europeancellars.com Click to watch video

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

47


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

Domaine La Tour Vieille This estate has been crafting some of the region’s most exciting wines since 1982. The dry climate and schistous soils insist on hand-selection in the vineyard – mechanization in these extreme conditions is impossible. They make red, white, and rosé wines labeled under the Collioure appellation and Vins Doux Naturels under the Banyuls appellation.

Domaine La Tour Vieille 12 Route de la Madeloc, 66190 Collioure, France Tel: +33 4 68 82 44 82 http://www.latourvieille.com/en/

Domaine La Tour Vieille Mémoire d’Automnes NV, Vin de Pays de la Côte Vermeille $21

Domaine La Tour Vieille 2010 La Pinède, Collioure $16

Domaine La Tour Vieille 2011 Rimage, Banyuls $15

US Importer: Kermit Lynch http://kermitlynch.com/

Click to watch video

48

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

(L)Harvest photos, (R) Bon Bons for making Banyuls wine, Vineyard and Sea, tasting room

Spring 2013


Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

49


Feature : Vines & Wines of Roussillon

50

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Domaine de Bila-Haut During our visit to Roussillon our editors enjoyed a delicious dinner and tasting with Gilles Troullier, Vineyard Manager for Domaine de Bila-Haut. This domaine is owned by legendary French winemaker Michel Chapoutier. Roussillon attracted his attention so he carefully scouted the region for the best vineyard sites and settled on a very unique block of land in Latour de France. Chapoutier planted three different varietals at the domaine: Syrah, with its savage aromas of scrub and spice; Grenache, so full of surprises; and Carignan, for mineral wines with crispy tannic notes. Bila-Haut refers to an old farm villa which was built high into the mountain slopes among old vines. The domaine comprises 75 hectares of land cultivated under bio dynamic farming techniques. http://www.chapoutier.com/cotes-du-roussillon-villages,A-O-C-wine,cro.html

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

51


Denver International Spirits Competition Results 2013

The 2013 Denver International Spirits Competition was held at the Omni Interlocken Resort, Broomfield, Colorado March 2 & 3, 2013. Twelve prominent spirits professionals participated in this double-blind tasting. We are pleased to announce the 2013 medal winners! 2013 BEST OF SHOW: Old Medley 12 Year Old Bourbon, Charles Medley Distillery

2013 DOUBLE GOLD WINNERS:

2013 DESIGN & PACKAGING CONTEST WINNERS:

Exclusiv 1 Vodka, Serge Imports, LLC

Gold- Suerte Tequila, 3 bottle series, Blanco, Anejo & Reposado

Roundhouse Gin, Roundhouse Spirits

Silver- Infusion Diabolique, 2 bottle series, Mixto Tequila &

Piedra Azul Reposado, Underdog Wine & Spirits

Kentucky Bourbon

Old Medley 12 Year Old Bourbon, Charles Medley Distillery

Bronze- KAH Tequila, 3 bottle series, Blanco, De’Agave, De’

Knob Creek Rye, Beam, Inc

Reposado

E&J VS Brandy, E&J Gallo

52

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Judges 2013

Medal

Spirit Name Producer

Ted Palmer Distiller and President Chief Roundhouse Spirits Tom Fischer Spirits & Drinks Journalist, Host and Producer of BourbonBlog.com Bryan Dayton Certified Sommelier, Master Mixologist & Proprietor OAK at Fourteenth Restaurant, Boulder, CO Allison Anderson Director Of Distillates Food and Wine, Boulder, Frasca CO Carolyn M. Riggs Owner/Head Chef Cellar Bar & Bistro Brick Gunnison, CO William Davis, CWE, CSS Advanced Sommelier, Court of Master Sommeliers Food & Beverage Industry Professional Natalie Guinovart DWS, CWE, CS Senior Tasting Editor, VinoTasting.Com James Lee Proprietor & Spirits Professional The Bitter Bar, Boulder, CO Stadler Chris Wine Instructor Senior International Wine Guild Larry Wilcox Certified Spirit Sommelier Topshelf Liquor Consulting, LLC Dave Elger Host of HotMixology Joy Simpson Producer of HotMixology Mike Manning Co-Founder and Co-Owner Proof Media Mix

Bronze Gold Gold Bronze Silver Gold Gold Silver Silver Gold Silver Silver Bronze Gold Gold Gold Gold Silver Gold Gold Silver Gold Silver Silver Gold Gold Gold Silver Gold Gold Gold Bronze Silver Gold Silver Bronze Gold Silver Silver Bronze Gold Silver Bronze Gold Gold Bronze Gold Bronze Gold Silver Silver Gold Gold Gold Silver Silver Silver Gold Bronze Silver Gold Gold Gold Bronze

1One Vodka Barenjager Honey Bourban Big House Bourbon Straight Big House Bourbon Tupelo Honey Bird Dog Peach Whiskey Breckenridge Bourbon Breckenridge Spiced Rum Cedar Ridge Dark Rum Clear10 Vodka 80 Proof Concannon Irish Whiskey Denver Dry Gin Dirty Karma Organic Vodka Dirty Karma SOL Dizzy Three Express Vodka 60 Proof Dorda Double Chocolate Liqueur E&J VS Brandy E&J VSOP Brandy E&J XO Brandy Elevate Vodka Exclusiv 1 Vodka Exclusiv 5 Coconut Vodka Feisty Spirits Elements Kamut Wiskey Fireside 4 Year Aged Bourbon Five Wives Vodka Golden Moon Gin Howdys Apple Pie Liquer Infusion Diabolique Kentucky Infusion Diabolique Mixto Iowa Bourbon Whiskey KAH Tequila Anejo KAH Tequila Blanco KAH Tequila Reposado Knob Creek Knob Creek Rye Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve Local Choice Black Cherry Bourbon Local Choice Lime Tequila Local Choice Orange Honey Tequila Local Choice Vodka Local Choice Whiskey Michael Collins Blend Michael Collins Single Malt New Amsterdam Gin New Amsterdam Vodka Old Medley 12 Year Old Bourbon Peak 7 Vodka Peg Leg Rum Piedra Azul Blanco Piedra Azul Reposado REDUX Absinthe Reed & Lacey, Barley, Corn Spirit Ricardo’s Decaf Coffee Liquer Roundhouse Gin Santa Fe Spirits Apple Brandy Silver Coyote Suerte Tequil Anejo Suerte Tequil Bianco Suerte Tequil Reposado Tahoe Blue Vodka Town Branch Broubon Trinity Absinthe Underground Herbal Spirit Wathens Kentucky Bourbon (Single Barrel) Wheeler’s Gin

Spring 2013

Salveto Imports, LLC Sidney Frank Importing Underdog Wine & Spirits Underdog Wine & Spirits Western Spirits Breckenridge Distillery Breckenridge Distillery Cedar Ridge Distillery Good Spirits Distilling Underdog Wine & Spirits Mile High Spirits LLC Lifestyle Spirits Lifestyle Spirits Good Spirits Distilling Chopin Imports Ltd. E&J Gallo E&J Gallo E&J Gallo Mile High Spirits, LLC Serge Imports, LLC Serge Imports, LLC Feisty Spirits Mile High Spirits, LLC Ogdens Own Distillery Maison De La Vie, Ltd. Dba Golden Moon Distillery Cedar Ridge Distillery Black Squirrel Enterprises, Inc. Black Squirrel Enterprises, Inc. Cedar Ridge Distillery Worldwide Beverage Imports, LLC Worldwide Beverage Imports, LLC Worldwide Beverage Imports, LLC Beam, Inc. Beam, Inc. Beam, Inc. Local Choice, Inc. Local Choice, Inc. Local Choice, Inc. Local Choice, Inc. Local Choice, Inc. Sidney Frank Importing Sidney Frank Importing E&J Gallo E&J Gallo Charles Medley Distillery Peak 7 Vodka Mile High Spirits, LLC Underdog Wine & Spirits Underdog Wine & Spirits Maison De La Vie, Ltd. Dba Golden Moon Distillery Reed & Lacey, LLC Spirit Hound Distillers Roundhouse Spirits Santa Fe Spirits Santa Fe Spirits Suerte Tequilla Suerte Tequilla Suerte Tequilla Tahoe Spirits, LLC Alltech Lexington Brewing & Distilling Co. Overland Distillery Ogdens Own Distillery Charles Medley Distillery Santa Fe Spirits

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

53


Winery Profile

54

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Balistreri Vineyard’s Colorado Expansion Dreams Become Reality! Denver, Colorado-based winery Balistreri Vineyards is a husband, wife and daughter business that was established in 1998. Winemaker & proprietor John Balistreri was a successful commercial greenhouse grower and home winemaker before being bit by the bug for commercial wine making.

of fermenting grapes in an oak barrel, Balistreri’s white wines take on an orange hue.

“We tried to make the best wine we could,” remarked Balistreri. In 2004, after six years of operations, Balistreri’s Horse Mountain Syrah won Double Gold at The San Francisco Wine Competition, virtually putting Balistreri and Colorado wines on the radar of wine journalists and restaurants.

Balistreri sells 95% of its wine out the front door while 5% is sold in wine shops and restaurants. 2013 projections are for producing six to seven thousand cases.

Balistreri’s wines are New World in style featuring unapologetically opulent fruit and rich texture. Unlike larger, mass production wineries, they are made barrel by barrel. Uniquely, Balistreri wines are fermented and aged in neutral oak barrels, the kind of handcraftsmanship often encountered in small European wineries. In the Fall of 2012, Balistreri Vineyards completed a massive expansion of their original tasting room, which was a small house that was used for tastings, sales and wine storage below. The new digs are approximately six times larger and include an 8,000-foot tasting room with an adjoining event center and kitchen. Most importantly, the new wine cellar spans 7,800 feet which now enables storage of more than 280 oak barrels as well as finished wine. Top red wines include newly released varietal Petit Verdot, Malbec, Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, American Port and Zinfandel (limited). The white wine range has recently expanded to accommodate the event center customers, including Chardonnay, Viognier and Riesling. Due to the winemaking process Spring 2013

Almost all wines are made exclusively from Colorado-grown fruit. Varietals are segregated as single varietals with most vineyard names acknowledged and printed on labels.

Wines are best appreciated with food. The newly expanded winery has a fully functional kitchen with lunch and appetizer platters offered daily at the winery. Customers who visit the new tasting room can sit at a table and taste wine flights accompanied by delicious antipasti, various small plates, salads, sandwiches and desserts. Colorado’s own Hosea Rosenberg, Top Chef Season Five Champion and owner of Blackberry Catering created the menu. Rosenberg’s company is the exclusive caterer for Balistreri’s event center as well as corporate and private events and weddings. Balistreri offers numerous events at their winery during the course of the year. Their most popular is an annual Harvest Festival that is held every Fall. The winery is located just 10 minutes from downtown Denver and is open seven days a week. J. A. Balistreri Vineyards 1946 E. 66th Ave Denver, CO 80229 Tel. (303) 287-5157 www.balistreriwine.com WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

55


Search For The Vatican Wine Cellar

56

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

57


Feature : Search For The Vatican Wine Cellar

58

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Search For The Vatican Wine Cellar Story and Photos by Christopher J. Davies

Watching the recent departure of Pope Benedict XVI from the Vatican on his ceremonial helicopter ride from the Vatican Gardens over many of Rome’s historic sites brought back memories of our 2010 visit to Italy. For years, I have heard rumors that there was a wine cellar at the Vatican. I wondered if it could be true? After all, the Catholic Church collects many of the world’s treasures. Why not some of best wines on the planet?

After several unanswered emails to the Vatican’s PR department, I decided to be resourceful. I reached out to my friend Marco Borghese, co-owner of Castello di Borghese Vineyards on Long Island and an Italian Prince, deeply rooted to Rome. Marco put me in touch with his sister Cristina, a friend of Cardinal Giovanni Cheli, a prominent Vatican diplomat who previously lived in New York and represented Vatican City as an observer at the United Nations. Cardinal Cheli graciously offered to provide us with a personal, behind the scenes tour. We traveled to Rome and arranged a rendezvous at the left gate in front of the Vatican. Cristina Borghese arrived with Cardinal Cheli in a small and unassuming vehicle; we quickly and enthusiastically jumped into the back seats. As we drove through the first gate and up the road into Vatican City, Swiss Guard repeatedly stopped us at measured checkpoints. Each time the Cardinal yelled out the window “It’s Cardinal Cheli!” and the Swiss Guard waved us on. When we got to the top of the hilly, beautiful tree-lined gardens Cristina parked the car and Cardinal Cheli invited us to go for a walk. At 91 years of age, the Cardinal was full of energy and humor. The Vatican Gardens measure about half of the acreage of the state’s total 110 acres. We walked past gardens containing vegetation from many countries worldwide, including Brazil, China, Japan and Australia. The gardens consist of well-groomed boxwood hedges, pines, cypress and palm trees. The gardens also contain an extensive collection of art, sculptures and grottos. Most notable was a replica of the original Liberty Bell. From its highest point, you have a spectacular view of St. Peter’s Basilica. Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

59


Feature : Search For The Vatican Wine Cellar

(L to R) View of St. Peter’s Basilica from the Vatican Gardens, Liberty Bell replica, St. Peter’s Basilica Clock, Circa 1786 (At the top of the facade of St. Peter’s Basilica, left side, above the Arch of the Bells), Vatican guest tower.

Search For The Va 60

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Cardinal Cheli invited us to see the Vatican’s secret missile. Intrigued, we followed him to a wall that looked down onto a moat. Inside was a nine-foot cement replica of a 19th century canon. Later the Cardinal explained, “We don’t have a wine cellar in the Vatican. But I will show you where we have wine.” We traveled briefly to the Vatican grocery store, which is only open to Vatican employees and clergy. Again the Cardinal persuaded employees that it was okay for us to come in for a tour. The grocery store had a full butcher shop with fresh meats, poultry and seafood. The professional butchers were preparing custom cuts while customers waited. The store had more than one dozen grocery aisles including one section devoted entirely to wines. The predominant brand for sale was Castello Banfi, Italy’s leading brand, named after founder John Mariani, Sr.’s Aunt Teodolinda Banfi. Remarkably, she had served as head of the household staff of the late Pope Pius XI - the first lay person ever to serve the papacy.

(L to R) Cristina Borghese, Cardinal Giovanni Cheli and Darcy Davies strolling in the Vatican gardens and wine on display at the Vatican Grocery.

tican Wine Cellar Spring 2013

Prices at The Vatican Grocery were very reasonable and about 15% lower than prices in Rome’s grocery stores as there are no taxes in the Vatican State. Cardinal Cheli thanked us for our interest and we were dropped off at the same gate where we began our visit. While we did not discover the Vatican Wine Cellar, this visit will be forever emblazoned in our memories! CD Editors note: Cardinal Giovanni Cheli passed away of natural causes at the age of 94 on February 8, 2013. WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

61


Featured: Local Recipe & Travel Suggestions

HOTEL HASSLER ROMA’S MICHELIN-STARRED IMÀGO RESTAURANT REVEALS SIGNATURE MERLUZZO CARBONARO RECIPE By Chef Francesco Apreda Fusing fresh ingredients and innovative cooking techniques with contemporary Italian cuisine, the new menu features dishes such as artichoke Roman-style, breaded burrata cheese with a hint of citron, stewed scorpion fish with vesuvian tomatoes, aromatic infusion of Roman broccoli and darjeeling-flavored Sicilian cassata, blood orange and soy water Ice. Signature Dish:

To prepare:

Merluzzo (Cod) Carbonaro Glazed in Sake, Indian-Curried Baby Squid in a Purple Field

Sake mixture: Mix the red miso, sugar, sake, rice vinegar and water and reduce to half its volume.

Ingredients (serves 6) 1 1/3 lb Alaska black cod Kala Namak Indian Salt

Purple potato mousse: Peel the purple potatoes and boil in salted water. Drain and mash ingredients with a fine ricer and leave to cool, uncovered. Once cooled, add melted butter, red wine vinegar, 1/2 cup potato cooking water, salt and a pinch of pepper. Pour the mixture into a siphon, charge it with gas and place in a bain-marie at 185°F.

Sake mixture: 1/4 cup red miso 1/5 cup sugar 3 1/2 tablespoons sake 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons water 1 cup baby squid Indian curry powder

Red onion petals: Peel and cut the onion into petals and remove inner skin. Blanch onions in water and salt, and a few drops of vinegar; drain and plunge in ice water to cool. Once cooled, briefly sauté in oil and salt until crispy. Purple cabbage julienne: Finely slice cabbage and soak in ice water for one hour. Drain and sauté cabbage in a pan with oil and salt.

Purple potato mousse: 1/4 lb purple potatoes 1 tablespoon cream 1/2 tablespoon butter 1/2 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Alaskan black cod: Scale filet cod to obtain four portions of about 1/3 lb each. Salt each portion and sauté with the skin side down; turn over when the skin becomes crispy, add the sake mixture and simmer gently. When the mixture reduces to form a thick glaze, the cod will be ready to serve (about 10 minutes). Spoon the mixture over the fillets.

Red onion petals and cabbage julienne: 1/2 lb purple cabbage 1 red onion Finishing touches: 1/2 tablespoon dehydrated violet petals

Finishing touches: Serve the cod filet with the skin side up and sprinkle lightly with Kala Namak Indian salt. Serve with the warm potato mousse, dehydrated red onion petals, purple cabbage, dried violet petals and the baby squid briefly sautéed in oil and Indian curry.

62

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

For more information and special packages at the Hotel Hassler Roma, visit www.hotelhasslerroma.com Spring 2013


Suggested Lodging Nearby:

Unique Dining-Central Rome Top Dinning Atop The Spanish Steps

Hotel dei Consoli **** (4 Stars) Via Varrone 2/D angolo via Cola di Rienzo Rome Tel +39 06-68892972 www.hoteldeiconsoli.com/en Just a short five minute walk from the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel, Hotel dei Consoli opened in 2000. This boutique hotel is elegant with well-appointed rooms, Wi-Fi and well-trained, courteous staff. One of its best features is its beautiful rooftop terrace with breathtaking views of St. Peter’s Dome. The hotel serves breakfast (15E) every morning on the terrace. In the evening, guests may bring their own bottle of wine and snacks to the terrace to watch the setting Roman sun. Located in the quiet Via Varrone neighborhood, this hotel’s location offers a soothing place to rest after conquering Rome’s many attractions. Take the train from Ottaviano San Pietro station (ten minute walk) to access central Rome’s hotspots. Price: 220 to 400 E (per night)

Spring 2013

IL Palazzetto Restaurant & Wine Bar Created by Roberto E. Wirth, owner of the five-star Hotel Hassler Roma, Il Palazzetto is located atop ancient stones where the famous banquets of Lucullus were held. While the Spanish Steps are one of Rome’s busiest destinations, once you enter Il Palazzetto, you are transported to an intimate restaurant and wine bar on the second floor terrace with a terrific bird’s-eye view over the Spanish Steps and rooftops of Rome. The cuisine is focused on fresh, local ingredients. You will love inventive dishes such as tagliolini pasta in cacio cheese and black pepper sauce with zucchini blossoms, Tuscan steak or a fennel-flavored cod filet with Jerusalem artichoke. Wines by the glass or by the bottle are fairly priced. Il Palazzetto is located at the headquarters for the International Wine Academy of Rome, so if you are looking to enhance your appreciation of wine and food, you might consider planning your holiday at a convenient time to take a course! Il Palazzetto Hotel & Event Space Vicolo del Bottino, 8 00187 Roma www.ilpalazzettoroma.com/

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

63


Chef Lon

Culinary Arts

64

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Lon Symensma: Culinary Magician, Chef & Co-Owner, Cholon Modern Asian Bistro & Gather, Denver, Colorado Denver’s culinary landscape changed drastically when a talented young chef moved to town and launched ChoLon Modern Asian Bistro with a college friend and her husband in 2011.

In 2011, Chef Symensma was the first-ever Double Champion at The Denver International Wine Festival’s Pairsine Chef’s Food & Wine Pairing Competition.

Lon Symensma studied at the The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York. After completing his studies, he packed his knives and passport and left New York to gain experience at two different Michelin two-starred restaurants in the south of France, and apprenticed at the acclaimed Arzak restaurant in San Sebastián, Spain. Adding to this impressive list are stints working in China and Shanghai for world-renowned chef and mentor Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Chef Symensma’s next journey brought him back to New York to rejoin Jean-Georges at his iconic Southeast Asian inspired restaurant, Spice Market. He later moved to Stephen Starr’s iconic Buddakan in Philadelphia, where he completed a highly lauded four-year run.

Impressively, he also picked up the Judge’s “Best Chef” award as well as the “People’s Choice” 2011 award. Here we include the recipes for his winning dishes and showcase his masterful pairings. After reviewing the highly detailed procedures and steps required to create these dishes, it is clear that Symensma is indeed a culinary magician! https://www.cholon.com/denver/

Pho Bites, Oxtail, Rib Eye

Pork Vindaloo, Toasted Rice Spuma, Crispy Shallots

Phò bò

Veal Bones 6 pounds Beef Tendon 3 pounds Oxtail 2 pounds Chicken Stock 16 cups Water 16 cups Ginger, sliced, charred 5 ounces Onion, halved, charred 3 each Cassia, toasted 2 Tablespoons Star Anise, toasted 1 teaspoon Black Cardamom, toasted 1 teaspoon Cloves, toasted ½ teaspoon Salt 1 Tablespoon Fish Sauce 6 ounces Palm Sugar 3 Tablespoons Lime Juice 2 Tablespoons

Method: Roast the veal bones. Combine all ingredients. Simmer for 12 hours and strain, saving the pho broth and the oxtail. Season the pho broth with the fish sauce and lime juice and set with 6 leaves of gelatin per 4 cups. Mix gently with the shredded oxtail meat and pour into a plastic lined half sheet tray.

For the Plate Shallots, shaved into rings, shocked in ice water Bean Sprouts, picked Cilantro, picked Red Finger Chili, rings Thai Basil, leaves Shaved Ribeye Sriracha Hoisin White Bread, cut into bite sized squares and toasted

Wine Pairing:

Rockwall Wine Company Kristen’s Viognier 2011 A fruity and fresh, aromatic white wine.

Pork Butt, cubed 3 pounds Cardamom ¼ teaspoon Cloves ¼ teaspoon Star Anise ½ teaspoon Coriander 2 teaspoons Cumin 1 teaspoon Cinnamon ¼ teaspoon Black Pepper ½ teaspoon Cayenne 1 teaspoon Turmeric ½ teaspoon Paprika 1 teaspoon Grapeseed Oil ½ cup Mustard Seeds 2 teaspoons Ginger, peeled 2 oz Garlic, stem removed 3 oz Green Chili, stem removed ½ oz Red Vinegar 6 oz Fish Sauce 3 oz Palm Sugar 2 oz Tomato Canned 2 pound can Tamarind Liquid 3 oz

Method: Grind all of the first ten spices and marinate the pork butt for several hours. Heat the oil in a large pan and pop the mustard seeds. Add the pork and caramelize lightly. Puree the remaining ingredients and add to the pan. Simmer uncovered for about 3 hours until very tender.

Toasted Rice Spuma

Jasmine Rice, toasted 3 oz Heavy Cream 10 oz Milk ½ cup Sugar 1 oz Salt ½ teaspoon Agar Agar 1 pinch

Method: Toast the rice in a dry pan. Add the sugar and cook lightly. Deglaze with the heavy cream and milk. Season with salt and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the agar agar and strain. Cool and dispense with a whipped cream gun.

Crispy Condiment Previous Page (L to R) Lon Symensma, Chef & Co-Owner, Cholon Modern Asian Bistro & Gather, Denver, Colorado, close up of Pork Vindaloo, Toasted Rice Spuma, Pho Bites, Oxtail, Rib Eye, Pork Vindaloo, Toasted Rice Spuma,

Wine Pairing:

Spring 2013

Kaffir Lime Leaves, cut into thin strips, fried at 350° for 5-10 seconds Shallots, small pieces, fried at 350° for 10-15 seconds Rice, fried at 350° for 30 seconds or until puffed Silkwood Satin & Silk 2007 100% Petite Sirah aged in brand new Mireau oak.

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

65


Parting Shot

Art Of The Vine

Coming Next Issue:

Location: Domaine Gauby in the tiny village of Calce, located in the PyrénéesOrientales section of the French region of Languedoc-Roussillon.

Oregon Wine Country!

Vine clippings leftover from winter pruning makes way for the next harvest. There are many ways one can reuse them for creative decor, arts and crafts, or to add a unique flavor to your next barbecue.

66

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Summer Barbeque Wines!

Spring 2013


BootCampWineCountryAd3_Bmoor-WineCountry-BootCamp 8/20/12 5:03 PM Page 1

Wine Lovers, Report to Duty!

2 nd Annual Sommelier Boot Camp MARCH 8-10, 2013

IF YOU HAVE A PASSION FOR LEARNING ABOUT WINE (and drinking it), this is your tour of duty. In this boot camp you will learn similar information to what is taught in the courses for an intro level sommelier test. You

ONE, TWO AND THREE NIGHT PACKAGES* ARE AVAILABLE AND INCLUDE:

won’t earn the title of “sommelier ” but you

will take your wine knowledge to the next

level, and graduate from Sommelier Boot

Camp!

Standard accommodations Sommelier classes with materials and wine tastings included Saturday wine pairing dinner in the Penrose Room Friday night reception (2- and 3-night packages only) Sunday winemaker dinner at Summit (3-night package only) $50 breakfast credit per night of the package 15% discount on select retail 40% discount on published suite rates

VISIT BROADMOOR.COM OR CALL 719.577.5775 OR 866.837.9520 TO MAKE YOUR RESERVATION.

*Limited availability. Not applicable to groups. Rates do not include applicable taxes and fees.

Spring 2013

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

67


Indulge in the local flavor. Experience cuisine like never before at the Meritage Restaurant located in the Omni Interlocken Resort. Whether staying the night or just staying for dinner, everyone is welcome to enjoy our world-class fare and warm, professional service in an atmosphere of understated elegance. For reservations, call 303-464-3330 and taste for yourself what makes Omni so good. Mention this ad and receive your first beverage on us. Subject to availability. See website for terms and conditions.

500 Interlocken Boulevard • Broomfield, CO 80021 800-The-Omni • omniinterlocken.com

68

WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL

Spring 2013


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.