Stars of Setúbal

1. Old-vine Castelão

Castelão is the king of the red varieties in the Setúbal Península of Portugal. It thrives here like nowhere else and so it’s understandably become a hallmark of the region. It’s an enigmatic variety, capable of a range of styles, from simple and rustic to deep and powerful. Red fruit flavours tend to dominate, and acidity is often modest. For many winemakers, Castelão is at its best when it takes the lead in a blend.

But old-vine Castelão can be a very different beast. The examples we sampled in our taste test were so diverse that we often wondered if the wines were made from the same grape. We chose four favourites, which illustrate not just the deftness of the winemaking but the malleability of a grape which deserves a growing fan base among inquisitive wine lovers.

Sociedade Vinícola Palmela

Serra Mãe Reserva Tinto 2020

Old vines: 28 years

Raymond Reynolds

RRP: £16.99

This wine is a collaboration between Setúbal Peninsula winemaker Filipe Cardoso and Raymond Reynolds, both of whom have a deep-rooted affection for Castelão. They’ve gone out of their way to allow the variety to express itself, favouring natural yeasts and a long, slow maceration before the wine settles in its concrete vat. There’s no fining or filtration.

What emerges is a version of Castelão with its own wild energy, and flashes of sage, thyme and lavender as well as red cherries and blackberries.

Quinta do Piloto Reserva 2018

Old vines: 89 years

Venâncio da Costa Lima Palmela

DOC Reserva 2018

Gauntleys of Nottingham

RRP: £19.15

Although we normally associate Castelão with red fruit flavours, we’re definitely on the darker end of the spectrum here. In fact it’s a much deeper and denser example of the varietal style than some people might have encountered, with generous, ripe plum characters, and it’s bolstered by some judicious French oak ageing which has added some spicy notes.

The winemakers have also been keen to retain a bracing crunch to the wine, and a slight earthiness, both of which only add to its appeal.

Raymond Reynolds RRP: £29.99

Another wine that shows what a shape-shifting variety Castelão can be. The nose is quite different from anything else in our line-up; it’s faintly medicinal, with a distinct accent of cloves. On the palate, the wine is complex, but not complicated: this family-owned producer clearly knows what it’s trying to achieve, and it’s all about refinement and luxury. Indeed it tastes like a wine at twice this price.

The layers gradually reveal themselves and we discover Mediterranean herbs, forest fruits and some more savoury elements. An elegant wine to contemplate, and perhaps to lay down.

Herdade do Cebolal Clarete 2019

Old vines: 50-60 years

Portuguese Story RRP: £28

Some Setúbal producers think of Castelão as their answer to Pinot Noir, and this wine makes a convincing case. The must has only two or three days of contact with the skins, followed by stainless steel fermentation and extended period on its lees. The result is a pale, brick-red wine that even has some of the slightly agricultural aromas you might find in a top Burgundy.

It’s a delightfully unforced and subtle iteration of Castelão, with delicate red fruit and a faint sprinkle of black pepper, and a satisfying mineral seam.