VOL 274
MARKET TIME IN THE WINELANDS
RECIPES FOR YOUR NEXT
FAMILY FEAST
A GUIDE TO WINE
FAULTS & FLAWS
SOUTH AFRICAN
CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Alicia Bento REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)
HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:
• Advertising call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. • Wine delivery or wine orders call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.
• Write to the Editor: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.
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Facebook: @wineofthemonthsa Twitter: @WotMSA Instagram: @wineofthemonth TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. SMS entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.
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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.
Taste what we do with love and passion www.napier-vineyards.co.za
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18 25 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 UNIQUE FOOD AND WINE PAIRINGS 10 GO-TO GIFT GUIDE 11 DISCOVER PLETT’S UP AND COMING WINE ROUTE 14 YOUR MARKET GUIDE TO THE WINELANDS 16 WINE FAULTS AND FLAWS UNCOVERED 18 THREE TASTY RECIPES TO TRY
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THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED IRINA VAN HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE: A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS: THE LIEBERSTEIN REVOLUTION A CLOSER LOOK: SUGARBIRD GIN
ON THE COVER Darlington Gin: A traditional, classic gin with a contemporary touch
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It’s Wine Time
Learn all about the Lieberstein Revolution on p.32
Three family feast style recipes on p.18
Starting from the bottom up, in his regular back page column, David Biggs explains how The Lieberstein Revolution turned South Africa into a wine drinking nation. Turn to p.32 to discover how a heavily advertised and inexpensive plonk with a pretty-looking label got everyone drinking wine. From its launch, wine no longer remained the preserve of the snooty upper classes. Keeping things un-snooty, you’ll find three delicious recipes to try on p.18. With Easter and Mother’s Day coming up, there is a selection of feast style family dishes to enjoy over the holidays. To sip alongside the dishes, we’ve added some nice wine pairings too. From regular style pairings to something more adventurous—we head to the winelands where we find some unique food and wine pairings. A few of our favourite wine farms have dreamt up some weird and wonderful combinations, pairing wine with things like cheesecake, nougat and even music. Turn to p.08 to find out the places to go on your next visit to the winelands. Did you know there is now a wine route in Plettenberg Bay? We stop off at some hidden gems along South Africa’s newest and tiniest wine route to see who and what are helping to establish this up and coming region. On p.16 we take a closer look at Wine Faults and Flaws. Here are tips on how to identify and understand why wines seem slightly ‘off ’ —and the various reasons behind them. Finally, Irina von Holdt unpacks what the Wine-of-the-Month Club panel thinks of two categories—Unusual Reds and Chardonnay. Two classes that, by today’s standards, are proving to be both challenging and exciting. There’s more. Not forgetting, of course, valuable information on all the best and latest wines.
CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB P.S. In our Feb/March issue we misprinted the price of Bader and Walters Cabernet Sauvignon 2016—the correct price is in fact R79,99. We apologise for our mistake!
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Elgin photo by Alfred Thorpe @vuurtoring, Splashy Fen photo by The Sight Seekers
SA CHEESE FESTIVAL, 26-28 APRIL One of the biggies on the South African culinary calendar, this three-day cheese extravaganza pairs together cheese and wine connoisseurs. Genius right? This STELLENBOSCH festival is, yup, you guessed it, full of all things cheese—with interactive food tastings, hand-crafted delicacies and live entertainment throughout the day. Tickets from R180pp. www.cheesefestival.co.za
WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA
CAB FRANC CARNIVAL, 18 MAY 2019 The wonderful Cab Franc Carnival returns to the beautiful and scenic AVONTUUR ESTATE between Stellenbosch and Somerset West. Up to 25 of South Africa’s most passionate producers of this niche varietal will offer their wines for tasting and sale at the event. Tickets are available at www.plankton.mobi from 1 April and cost R250pp online and R280pp at the gate. For more information go to www.cvomarketing.co.za.
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ELGIN COOL WINE AND C O U N T RY F O O D , 27-28 APRIL Save the date and head to ELGIN for a weekend of wine, delicious food and much more. Award-winning wines, a tasty culinary experience, a whole lotta outdoor activities, live entertainment and natural scenic wonders will ensure you (young or old) enjoy a memorable weekend in this beautiful valley. Ticket prices from R150pp. Go to www.ecwcf.winesofelgin.co.za KZN SPLASHY FEN, 18-22 APRIL Looking for something different to do this Easter weekend? Don’t miss KwaZulu-Natal’s most-loved and longest-running MUSIC FESTIVAL at one of the most beautiful settings in the Drakensberg. Enjoy an incredible musical line-up, a host of family activities, wellness workshops— and don’t forget the delicious food and drink stalls too. Tickets are R830pp for a weekend pass. www.splashyfen.co.za
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Gabriëlskloof Restaurant’s All-New Menu
FLAGSTONE’S NEW ICE QUEEN
Flagstone has just launched a sweet Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine with a tangy finish named ICE. It’s in a slim 375ml bottle, and this honey coloured tipple is crafted to be served over ice. We guess the grapes of this 100% Sauvignon Blanc were harvested at full ripeness (they must have been) to be this sweet. Quick, fill the ice cube trays! Available for R120 from the cellar door only.
Come this May, GABRIËLSKLOOF RESTAURANT (the popular Overberg
destination) switches its traditional à la carte offering for a hearty Blackboard Menu full of tasty winter dishes. The set up allows you to tuck into their daily menu while enjoying the views of the surrounding valley and there’s a large fireplace to keep you cosy on cold days. “We’re punting plant-based dishes, not exclusively of course,” says Chef Frans Groenewald. “But we’d like to show that vegetarian options can be wholesome and satisfying—even with the winter chill about.” Expect dishes such as crispy pork belly, roasts, chickpea and lentil Bolognese, big casseroles, soups and risotto. On the sweeter side, best you leave space for the likes of chocolate fondant, traditional souskluitjies and milk tart tiramisu. To reserve your table, call 028 284 9865.
WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine
Friday Night Lights
Alto Wine Estate, situated along the northern slopes of the Helderberg Mountain in Stellenbosch, introduces a series of FRIDAY NIGHT SUNSET ROUGE EVENINGS. Between 5-8pm you will be encouraged to laze on the lawns in front of the estate’s tasting lounge and soak up the sunset views of Table Mountain, while enjoying live music and sipping on Alto’s range of red wines. Entry is free and each guest will receive a complimentary glass of Alto Cabernet Rosé 2018 on arrival. Save us a spot? For more info, go to www.alto.co.za 6
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
What’s New | WINE & DINE
FROM FOREST TO WINE ESTATE Constantia Glen’s new book, of this wine estate through its early history and eventual transformation from forest land into one of the Cape’s most-loved family owned wine estates. The book has been researched and written by author Clare O’Donoghue with photographs by Craig Fraser. In essence, it is a celebration of the estate’s prowess while paying homage to the finely-tuned contemporary operations and advances behind its world-class winemaking. Best you find a new spot on your coffee table then.
R500 from selected book stores.
Photo by Craig Fraser
CONSTANTIA GLEN—A TIMELESS VISION, captures the life and times
Heard of Wellness Beers?
Photo By Chandler Bondurant
WELLNESS OR RECOVERY BEERS sound like
a bit of an oxymoron, don’t you think? If one beer knocks you out, how’s another going to get you up again? Not so. Recovery brews are not meant to help you recover from binge drinking but to refuel you after race day. And what could be a better idea after burning up a major sweat? The beers are gluten-free and made with sea salts, electrolytes, and other nourishing ingredients. They are designed to replenish your electrolytes (much like sports drinks do) and help your body recover rather than make you feel bloated and lethargic after pounding the pavement. Most of these beers are made in America but, as always, we hope the trend will catch on here soon. Remember, you heard it here first.
JUDGING A WINE BY ITS LABEL The results of the fifth annual WINE LABEL DESIGN AWARDS and the second annual BEER LABEL DESIGN AWARDS are in. And we’re all kinds of excited. This year a total of 83 wine entries were received, 30 of these receiving medals. Judging criteria include originality of concept, execution, shelf appeal and effectiveness as communication. The Grand Prix went to THE WINE THIEF series of wines, while The People’s Choice Award went to BLACK ELEPHANT VINTNERS & CO’S THE HONEY THIEF. A total of 31 beer entries were received, 15 receiving awards with Gold going to HOGHOUSE BREWING CO’S HAYBALE SAISON and the FLATROCK series of beers, while The People’s Choice Award went to the KAROO CRAFT BREWERIES series. Keep an eye out for them. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Treat yourself to a chocolate and wine duo at Waterford Estate A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN Kevin Arnold together with well-known Chocolatier, Richard von Geusau, have worked many, many hours to create a delicious series of DARK AND MILK CHOCOLATES that, when paired with Waterford’s Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Natural Sweet Wine, result in some amazing flavour sensations. Love chocolate? Head for the estate’s tasting room. Just R85pp. Email: info@waterfordestate.co.za Website: www.waterfordestate.co.za Tel: 021 880 5300
UNIQUE
FOOD & WINE
Pairings
You love the combination of cheese and wine. Everyone does. But here’s how some wine farms are thinking outside the box when it comes to pairing wines with food. It’s worth a trip to go and discover them
BOTTOMLESS BUBBLY & NOUGAT Villiera, famous for their bubbly, now pair four of their MCC Sparkling Wines with HANDMADE HONEY NOUGAT. The estate discovered that—what was initially a once-off—went down so well that they decided to make it a permanent offering. The pairing experience costs R120pp and takes place Mondays through to Fridays throughout the year. Email: wine@villiera.com Website: www.villiera.com Tel: 021 865 2002
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A SLICE OF CHEESECAKE WITH YOUR WINE, SIR? Eikendal Vineyards presents a brand new CHEESECAKE AND WINE PAIRING EXPERIENCE. The estate pairs a range of different style cheesecakes (zesty citrus, rich dark berry, and salted caramel) with their wines. If cheesecake is your favourite too, make a call on this Stellenbosch wine estate. R80pp on Tuesdays to Sundays between 10am and 16:30pm. Email: marketing@eikendal.co.za Website: www.eikendal.com Tel: 021 855 1422
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TREAT YOUR TASTE BUDS AND YOUR EARS Always one to go against the norm, Black Elephant Vintners offers you a creative and interactive MUSIC AND WINE TASTING. This novel approach is designed to enhance your wine tasting experience by showing you how to use more of your senses when enjoying wine. A silent disco tasting option is also available. R360pp, however it’s free if you spend R500 or more on wine. Email: rebels@bevintners.co.za Website: www.bevintners.co.za Tel: 021 876 2903
A FAMILY SIZED FULL HOUSE PIZZA Looking for a fun group day out? Brenaissance’s Café Blanc de Noir brings visitors a fun FULL HOUSE PIZZA PAIRING. Here, you receive a large pizza (made up of four different types) which you then enjoy with four of the estate’s wines, each section complementing the accompanying wine. Taste five wines for R50pp or do a pizza and wine pairing of four wines for R185pp. Email: info@brenaissance.co.za Website: www.brenaissance.co.za Tel: 021 200 2537
AN ICE CREAM LOVER’S DREAM Clos Malverne was the first estate in Stellenbosch to offer an ice cream and wine pairing. Since then, this popular offering has become one of the estate’s signature pairings. So, the next time the sun is shining and you’re in the winelands, enjoy an ICE CREAM & WINE PAIRING for just R98pp. Book beforehand and make a note that the pairing is not available on a Sunday or Monday. Email: info@closmalverne.co.za Website: www.closmalverne.co.za Tel: 021 865 2022
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Carrol Boyes Sketchbook Mugs, R189 from Wine-of-theMonth Club
Weber Q 1200, R4999 from Wine-of-theMonth Club
Sublime Red Wine Glass, R395 from Weylandts
Waterford Library Collection Cabernet Franc 2015, R609 from Wine-ofthe-Month Club Did you know Wine-of-the-Month Club has gift boxes too? With a wide range selection, there’s something for everyone. Prices start at R295. Visit www.wineofthemonth.co.za to shop online.
Your Go-To Gift Guide
We love Weylandt’s range of tea and glassware
Get ahead of this year’s gift buying with a selection of our favourite ideas for friends, family and colleagues
Teakroot Footed Cake Stand, R297 from Weylandts
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Gold Leaf Wine Bottle Stopper, R70 from Poetry
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JUST UNCORKED Plettenberg Bay has its own wine route? Yes, welcome to SA’s smallest wine-growing region Plettenberg Bay is known as one of South Africa’s premier holiday spots. And now that it is producing wines, will it become even better known? The Plettenberg Bay Wine Route is the country’s smallest wine-growing region. It boasts just 58 hectares out of the 100 000 hectares planted to vines across SA. That’s tiny, but the region has a cool climate, which is good for growing wine grapes, and is the country’s most easterly wine route. The first wine estate opened up in 2000 and today there are 18 (and counting) vineyards dotted along this scenic strip of the Cape’s Garden Route. Dubbed as a future ‘Champagne District’ of South Africa, the terroir lends itself to producing Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, all grapes used in the production of Méthode Cap Classic. While happily plonking our way through Plett, we discovered some must-see gems… SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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A HOME IN THE CRAGS
It was after a visit to New Zealand that inspired Doug and Sue Lund to make wine—and it’s no coincidence the couple chose to do it in a region with similar characteristics. Coming from both sugar and dairy farming families in KwaZulu-Natal, the couple brought their family to The Crags in 2006, when the Plettenberg Bay Wine Route was still in its infancy. They bought 11.5 hectares of land, planted vineyards of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and “created wines, and a life we truly love,” says Sue. Visit NEWSTEAD LUND FAMILY VINEYARDS tasting room and restaurant where you won’t find any stuffy formalities and where the food is guided by the season’s best locally sourced ingredients. The on-site vegetable, herb and flower gardens mean the food is always fresh, simple and delicious. Go to www.newsteadwines.com
A WINNING COMBINATION
UNIQUE HANDCRAFTED FLAVOURS
Owners Steph and Chick Legh are intent on nurturing the vision of KAY & MONTY VINEYARDS that was bought by Chick Legh back in 2004. An avid polo player, Chick decided to convert the land into a polo estate. Then he changed tack and became one of the first estates after Bramon to plant wine grapes, and slowly but surely the winemaking infrastructure began to take shape. There are just five hectares under grapes. “It’s a lasting tribute to my grandparents, Kay and Monty,” says Steph Legh. “On balmy summer evenings Kay would turn to Monty and conspiratorially suggest a chilled glass of Champu.” The estate invites you to soak up their beautiful setting for a lip-smacking lunch or perhaps just to pop in for coffee and something sweet. The tasting room offers cheeses and meat platters paired with locally sourced artisanal breads and—of course— their wines. Oh, and they do weddings too. Go to www.kayandmonty.com 1 2
Just 10 kilometres from Plett, you’ll find another boutique estate, LUKA WINE FARM, which started producing wines in 2011. It has just 1.5 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc. But here’s the surprise. After only three harvests, the farm won a Double Gold for its 2013 Sauvignon Blanc. “Our first harvest won a Veritas Bronze, our second a Michelangelo International Silver, and our third the Veritas Double Gold,” says resident winemaker Anton Smal. Anton was with Villiera Wines for more than 18 years before he moved to Plett. The estate is also home to resident springbuck, two of which were hand reared and fed by bottle. Aside from wine tastings, Luka also has a self-catering house overlooking the farm’s dam. The farm is close to the Knysna Elephant Park Valley, and guests can enjoy the abundance of bird life, as well as hiking and mountain bike trails. Go to www.lukawines.co.za
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ELEPHANTS TOO
BRAMON WINE ESTATE is the farm that paved the way for the rest. It is situated 20 km east of Plettenberg Bay, also found in the mountainous area called The Crags. The first to plant vineyards in Plett, this family-run estate prides itself on pushing the boundaries of winemaking with its award-winning nontraditional and traditional Méthode Cap Classique and still wines. Bramon also has a restaurant, set in vineyards overlooking the Tsitsikamma Mountains, and a few elephants (yes, elephants!) and specialises in fresh tapas style dishes. There are also tasting facilities and delicious picnics to enjoy in the grounds. You can also make a weekend out of it and stay at the estate’s chic country-style accommodation. Go to www.bramonwines.com
A TASTE OF COUNTRY LIVING
Owners of PACKWOOD, Peter and Vicky Gent, originally from England, packed their bags and moved to South Africa in 1997. While on honeymoon in Plett, and during a visit to the farm, they saw its underlying potential and snapped it up. This was the beginning of the farm’s transformation into the beautiful estate it is today. It is surrounded by indigenous forests, with beautiful views. The Gents invite you to sip on some of their handcrafted wines, and bubblies, alongside homemade cheese platters and eats made from home grown produce. The estate also hosts Breakfast & Bubbles—where you can enjoy your sunny-side-up eggs and sparkling wine in a relaxed setting overlooking the beautiful surrounds. Stay at either their country house or in one of their cosy farm cottages. Go to www.packwood.co.za
HANDCRAFTED WITH PRECISION
The vines of PLETTENVALE BOUTIQUE VINEYARD and Winery are planted on north slopes and take advantage of the cool breezes that blow through the valley directly off the bay. The farm’s first plantings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah were made in September 2008. The owners, Martin & Gloria Strack, pride themselves on their handcrafted wines. In 2012 they built their own winery and cellar. “From the nurturing of the vines to the hand picking and vinification of the grapes, it is a true labour of love,” says Paul Wallace, the farm’s vitculture consultant, who makes just five styles of wines. Wine tasting as well as a very tasty chocolate and wine pairing are also available by appointment. Go to www.plettenvalewines.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WINELANDS | MARKETS
THE FRANSCHHOEK VILLAGE MARKET, FRANSCHHOEK Saturdays 9am-3pm (weather permitting)
Photo courtesy of I Love Yver
Sit back and relax under the trees and enjoy lots of organic produce, tasty foods, different deli items, as well as local artworks and fun crafts are all on offer. Make sure to stock up on some of THE FRANSCHHOEK VILLAGE MARKET’S staples—such as fresh veggies, warm, freshly baked breads and pastries, homemade jams, charcuterie, olives and olive oil.
GROOTE POST COUNTRY MARKET, DARLING Last Sunday of every month, 10am-3pm Enjoy some live music while soaking up this property’s oh-so-beautiful country setting as you tuck into some local homegrown Darling treats. The GROOTE POST COUNTRY MARKET is spread between the estate’s gardens and award-winning restaurant, Hilda’s Kitchen, and this means there’s plenty of space for the kids to run wild and enjoy tractor rides, pony rides and face-painting.
Winel a nd s
MARKET DAYS IN THE
As if producing wine wasn’t enough, some of our best estates have markets too—here’s a few of our favourites to visit
DE WARENMARKT, STELLENBOSCH Monday to Saturday, 7:30am-10pm
Housed in an 18th-century heritage building—one of Stellenbosch’s most popular markets, DE WARENMARKT offers a cultural experience with a side of delicious fresh produce and an array of artisanal foods. Enjoy a wide range of speciality meats, taste some of the best Stellenbosch wines, and try some delicious cheeses, cold craft beers and, of course, some speciality coffee.
HERMANUSPIETERSFONTEIN MARKET, HERMANUS Saturdays, 9am-1pm
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Take a drive and head to Hermanus this Saturday where you can spend a leisurely day sampling some farm-fresh produce, rustic style breads as well as some devilishly sweet treats. Grab a spot close to the band and try their famous artisanal coffee, mussel pots and homemade quiches to start. Then, finish off the day with some top notch MCC or a freshly squeezed juice if you’re driving.
MARKETS | WINELANDS
ROOT 44 MARKET, STELLENBOSCH Saturdays & Sundays, 10am-4pm
THE LOURENSFORD MARKET, SOMERSET WEST Fridays 5pm-9pm & Sundays 10am-3pm Taking place at the estate’s award-winning gardens and with beautiful views of the Hottentots Holland mountains, makes LOURENSFORD’S MARKET one pretty as a picture market. The food and craft stalls are cleverly arranged in a horseshoe-shape around the main eating area and there’s a designated kiddies section too. The market is also completely under cover so you’re protected from the elements either way.
Another Stellies favourite, ROOT 44 MARKET is held in weather-proof marquees and surrounded by beautiful vineyards and trees. Guests can enjoy live entertainment, some wonderful craft and home décor stores alongside a wide variety of seasonal eats, award-winning wines and other artisanal drinks. A kiddie’s heaven, means that they will be well entertained for hours while mom and dad relax.
CAPE POINT VINEYARDS MARKET, NOORDHOEK Every Thursday, 4:30pm-8:30pm The CAPE POINT VINEYARDS COMMUNITY MARKET has become a must for Cape Town locals, after-work city folk and tourists alike. This weekly pop-up market takes place at the Cape Point Vineyards Restaurant and Function Venue which has one of the most idyllic lakeside settings overlooking the vineyards, mountains and the nearby sea. A big selection of food stalls and Cape Point Vineyards’ award-winning wines are all there for the sipping.
Photo courtesy of Claire Gunn Photography
FRIDAY NIGHT MARKET AT BOSCHENDAL, FRANSCHHOEK Friday nights, 6pm-9pm (until May 2019) Boschendal is the place to be come Friday night. This wonderful winery has one of the most beautiful settings, grounds and views. Throw in some live music, artisanal fare, fine food and Boschendal wines and you’ve got yourself a slice of heaven. What’s more, the market changes up its stores weekly so you wont get the same offerings if you’re a regular. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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A GUIDE TO
WINE FAULTS & FLAWS How to sniff out those fateful faults
FLAWS VS. FAULTS
Wine flaws and wine faults are two different things. A flaw is considered a minor flavour aberration not normal for a wine, but that doesn’t necessarily ruin the taste. Some folks even think a flaw can make a wine more interesting, while others can be completely put off by it. Flaws are often mistaken for a certain flavour, or even as a result of specific environmental factors or terroir characteristics. A wine flaw is anything that creates a flavour or aroma that you don’t expect in a certain varietal. Here’s an example: You taste a wine that has an earth-like aroma that 1 6
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you’ve never quite whiffed before. You have a sip and rather like the earthy taste. That makes it still a very drinkable wine with perhaps a certain je ne sais quoi that you could really get to like. COMMON WINE FAULTS
To help separate flaws from faults, here are some pretty common problems found in wine: 1. BRETTANOMYCES
Tell-tale signs: Your wine has a rather unpleasant smell and the taste of a horse’s stable … a mix of horse manure and perhaps sweaty saddle too. It can also smell like a used twoday old strip of Elastoplast. Peeuuuwww! Explanation: Brettanomyces (abbreviated to bret) is a type of yeast. For starters, yeast enjoys setting up camp all over wine farms. It’s in the air, on the grapes, in barrels and also all over the winery. Too much bret can make a wine taste something foul. However, many folks find small amounts of bret in wine and even in beer rather enjoyable. No problem. The right amount often works to elevate dark fruit flavours and even impart some floral notes. Now we feel bad about the earlier ‘peeuuuwww!’.
interacting with natural cork or lurking in winemaking equipment that is not properly sterilised. There are degrees of it: from extremely corky to just slightly corky. Very sadly it really ruins a wine, kills the fruit. There are no upsides unless you like the taste of wet dog. Luckily, though, modern winemaking techniques and better hygiene mean that the dreaded cork taint is less common these days. Which is good news all round, but it also means wine drinkers have less exposure to it and have a harder time picking it up. If your wine smells distinctly like Aunty Merle’s attic, don’t drink the whole bottle to ‘make sure’. We love wine too but, trust us, it’s not worth it. 5.VOLATILE ACIDITY (VA)
Tell-tale signs: Wine smells or tastes like vinegar. And not even the good kind of balsamic that comes from a small village in Spain. Explanation: Volatile acidity (like bret above) is caused by various yeasts and bacteria particles hopping into the wine at any stage of the winemaking process. These yeasts and bacteria create the same acid that makes vinegar taste like vinegar. Too much VA in a wine is reminiscent of the gag inducing flavour of apple cider vinegar. But small amounts are okay; they can add subtle sweet and tangy notes to ripe berry notes.
2. OXIDATION/OXIDATIVE
Tell-tale signs: If wine is exposed to too much air it develops a brownish tint. When this happens in white wine it takes on nutty aromas, while red wines start to smell and taste like vinegar. Explanation: Oxidation, as the name implies, is exposure to too much oxygen, either during the winemaking process or in the bottle due to a bad closure. If you’ve ever left a bottle of wine open for a week and it tastes like it belongs on your salad more than in your glass, you’ll know what we mean.
A FINAL NOTE…
All winemakers, no matter whether they are renowned or unknown, are subject to wine faults not under their control. If you discover something off in your favourite wine, it doesn’t mean you should stop drinking it. It’s more than likely a onceoff. Even though winemakers are in the business of making truly heavenly products, it’s these small uncontrollable faults that keep them humble. Which makes them some of the nicest people you can ever meet.
3. REDUCTION/REDUCED
Tell-tale signs: This bad boy has the rather unpleasant aroma of boiled cabbage mixed with boiled eggs. Yup, it’s a doublethreat stench maker. Explanation: Reduction is the opposite of oxidation. Instead of wines being exposed to a usually limited amount of air, they are intentionally closeted to preserve the aromas. Winemakers typically use sulphur to ward off oxygen, and when used in small doses, it can add a light, flinty, match-like note to wines. 4. TCA (CORK TAINT)
Tell-tale signs: Perhaps the most common offender, this flaw makes wine smell like musty old newspapers, haunted attics or Fido after his annual bath. Explanation: TCA is a chemical compound caused by fungi
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Family FEAST With Easter and Mother's Day coming up, we've put together a selection of recipes—designed to be shared, enjoyed and loved
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
This dish works really well with a dessert wine like De Wet Muscadel 2017 (Price R75)
CINNAMON PEAR CAKE WITH STEM GINGER AND LEMON VERBENA ICE CREAM Serves 8 INGREDIENTS: 5 lemon verbena leaves, bruised 375ml (1½ cups) full-cream milk 2 large eggs, separated 15ml (1 tbsp) cake flour 200g sugar 3 knobs preserved stem ginger in syrup, finely grated 375ml (1½ cups) fresh single cream 6 firm, ripe pears 40g butter 45ml (3 tbsp) light brown sugar 5ml (1 tsp) ground cinnamon 200g butter 200g castor sugar 3 large eggs, beaten 200g self-raising flour 2,5ml (½ tsp) baking powder icing sugar, to dust dehydrated pear slices, to garnish lemon verbena leaves, to garnish
METHOD: 1. For the ice cream: Add the bruised lemon verbena leaves to the milk and scald in a heavy-base pan. Do not bring the milk to a boil. 2. Beat the 2 egg yolks. Add the 15ml (1 tbsp) cake flour to the 200g sugar and beat into the yolks. Pour a little of the scalded milk into the egg mixture and mix well then return the milk to the heat and add the egg mixture. Stir continuously over very low heat to make a custard. Remove from heat when it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain to remove the verbena leaves. Add the grated stem ginger and allow to cool completely. 3. Beat the 2 egg whites to stiff peaks. In a separate bowl, beat the single cream until thick. Fold both into the custard when it is cool and place in the freezer until needed. Remove from freezer just a few minutes before serving to allow it to soften. 4. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Lightly grease a 20cm-round springform cake tin. 5. For the pears: Peel, core and chop the pears into 2cm cubes. Melt the 40g butter and 45ml (3 tbsp) light brown sugar in a saucepan over low heat. Add the cinnamon and pears and cook until tender and the sauce has thickened, about 10 min. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. 6. For the cake: Beat the 200g butter and 200g castor sugar with a hand-held beater until pale in colour and creamy. Add the 3 eggs and a little of the 200g self-raising flour to prevent curdling. Fold in the remaining flour and the baking powder. Mix well, then add the cooked pears and their sauce. Scoop the mixture into the prepared tin and bake in the oven until golden brown and a metal skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 min. 7. Allow the cake to cool completely. Dust with icing sugar and garnish with dehydrated pear slices and lemon verbena leaves. Serve with a side of the ice cream. SA Connoisseur Loves: The beauty of this recipe is that it doesn’t need an ice-cream maker as it doesn’t form any ice crystals.
Rich, oily fish such as salmon pair wonderfully well with a full-bodied white wine like KWV The Mentors Semillon 2015 (Price R155)
POTATO PANCAKES WITH SMOKED SALMON, GOAT’S CHEESE AND SLIVERED RED ONIONS Serves 4-8 INGREDIENTS: 4 potatoes, peeled and halved 30g butter 60ml (¼ cup) fresh cream salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 egg, beaten cake flour, to dust 125ml (½ cup) vegetable oil + extra, if needed 150g smoked salmon 100g Goat’s Cheese ½ red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 10g chives, finely chopped
METHOD: 1. Place the potatoes in a pot of cold salted water and bring to a boil. Cook until soft. Drain well and mash along with the butter, cream and salt and pepper until the mixture is lump- free. Fold the beaten egg into the mashed potatoes. 2. Mould the potato mixture into 4 large or 8 smaller patties and dust with flour. Heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat, and fry the potato pancakes until golden, about 3 min on each side. Change the oil if it begins to burn. Remove the potato pancakes from the oil and drain on paper towel. 3. To serve, top each pancake with slices of salmon, crumbled Goat’s Cheese, slivers of red onion and snipped chives. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO Serves 4-8
A creamy risotto like this goes particularly well with Chamonix Pinot Noir Reserve 2016 (Price R395)
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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
METHOD: 1. Heat the broth over low heat and keep warm. 2. Heat 15ml (1 tbsp) of the olive oil in a medium skillet over high heat. Add half of the onion and half of the garlic and fry until translucent, about 5 min. Add the 500g wild mushrooms, butter, thyme and parsley, and cook, stirring regularly, until the mushrooms have browned lightly, 5 min. 3. Rehydrate the 15g dried porcini mushrooms in 250ml (1 cup) of the hot broth stock, about 5 min. Drain and chop. Strain the liquid back into the pot of broth, making sure there are no particles left in it. 4. Add the porcini mushrooms to the pot of wild mushrooms, along with the truffle oil and cook together, 1-2 min. Season
with salt and pepper, remove from heat and set aside. 5. Coat a large frying pan with the remaining 30ml (2 tbsp) olive oil and sauté the remaining onion and garlic over medium heat. Add the rice and stir quickly until it is nicely coated with oil and opaque, 1 minute. Add the wine and stir until almost absorbed. Continue adding the broth, 250ml (1 cup) at a time, allowing the rice to absorb each additional cup. The risotto should be creamy and slightly firm, not mushy. Cook for about 20 min in total. 6. Add the mushroom mixture to the risotto and stir in the Parmesan. Season to taste and serve drizzled with truffle oil and garnished with chopped parsley.
Recipes courtesy of Stockfood
INGREDIENTS: 1,5L – 2L (6 – 8 cups) chicken or vegetable broth 45ml (3 tbsp) olive oil 1 onion, peeled and diced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 500g fresh wild mushrooms (portobello, crimini, shiitake), sliced or chopped 30g butter 30ml (2 tbsp) fresh thyme, chopped 30ml (2 tbsp) fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped + extra, to garnish 15g dried porcini mushrooms 15ml (1 tbsp) truffle oil + extra, to drizzle salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 375g Arborio rice 125ml (½ cup) dry white wine 30g Parmesan, grated
IZELE VAN BLERK Winemaker at KWV
Izele van Blerk joined KWV’s cellar team in 2009. She holds a BSC degree in Viticulture and Oenology from the University of Stellenbosch, a qualification she backs with numerous other respected wine industry diplomas and experiences. Izele’s industry highlights include a stint at Falesco Winery in Italy and passing the Michael Fridjhon Wine Tasting Academy exam with distinction—which have led her on the path towards wine judging. Alongside this, Izele is also a judge at the Veritas Wine Awards and the National Young Wine Show—which is paving the way for her to reach yet another goal of becomimg a world-class taster. She has found her niche comfortably in the KWV team where, she says, everyone strives for more knowledge and constantly challenges themselves and one another. Izele believes that the teamwork and the collective pursuit for perfection makes KWV one of the strongest and most competitive teams in the industry. “l believe the team will stay honest in what we believe and what we do. We can always improve and keep on challenging ourselves against benchmarks set here and in other parts of the world.”
WWW.KWV.CO.ZA Address: La Concorde, 57 Main Rd, Paarl | Tel: +27 (0)21 807 3911 | Email: customer@kwv.co.za
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WINE | Winning Wines
SA’S TOP WINE PICKS
Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Caroline 2015 Reserve Club Delicate orange blossom notes overlay more distinctive creamy citrus peel on the nose. Ripe honeyed peaches drenched in cream, but the palate is not big and bold. It’s refined and elegant. Serious, nuanced and layered with a beautifully smooth mouthfeel and a prolonged, rewarding finish. PAIRING: Enjoy with spicy food, seafood, dessert and soft cheese. Flagstone Free Run Sauvignon Blanc 2018 Wine-of-the-Month Club A complex nose of green pepper, fig leaves, passion fruit and limey aromas is followed by a distinctive, bright
Margaret Fundira
Winnie Bowman
Platinum Club • Quoin Rock Red 2015 R550.00 • Flagstone Time Manner Place Pinotage 2016 R675.00 • Elemental Bob The Graveyard Tinta Barocca 2017 R350.00 • Chamonix Pinot Noir Reserve 2016 R385.00 • Virgin Earth Kobus Du Plessis Chardonnay 2014 R330.00 • Waterford Library Collection Edition Chenin Blanc 2017 R305.00 Reserve Club • Maastricht Pinotage 2017 R135.00 • Welgegund Grenache Noir 2017 R350.00 • Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 R260.00 • Eagles' Nest Shiraz 2015 R299.00 • Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Caroline 2015 R265.00 • Canto Wooded Chardonnay 2017 R195.00
Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections
David Biggs
THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)
Colin Collard
flintiness. The complexity of the nose is expressed on the palate giving this wine a full, crisp and lively mouthfeel, with an aftertaste that lingers. PAIRING: Pairs well with veal lemone and grilled calamari. Also try it with steamed asparagus, a spaghetti vongole, an avocado soup or a herbed risotto. Dunstone Stones in the Sun Shiraz 2017 Best Value Club This Shiraz expresses lots of red fruit flavours with liquorice and black pepper on the nose accompanied by sweet and sour cherry, plum flavours on the palate. Only 3500 bottles crafted. PAIRING: Enjoy with spicy chicken or beef dishes.
Claude Felbert
PJ ‘Buks’ Nel
Christine Rudman
Gregory Mutambe
Wine-of-the-Month Club • Maastricht Pinotage 2017 R135.00 • Muratie Martin Melck's Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 R189.00 • Compagnies Wijn Shiraz Mourvédre 2017 R170.00 • Dornier Malbec 2015 R130.00 • Simonsig Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018 R95.00 • Canto Unwooded Chardonnay 2018 R90.00 • Flagstone Free Run Sauvignon Blanc 2018 R95.00 • Usana Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2016 R120.00 • Bonnievale Dawn 2018 R70.00 • Perdeberg Soft Smooth White 2018 R65.00 • Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2018 R99.99 Best Value Club • Koelenbosch Merlot 2017 R105.00 • Muratie Melcks Red 2015 R120.00 • Lyngrove Collection Pinotage 2017 R85.00 • Dunstone Stones in the Sun Shiraz 2017 R81.00 • Canto Unwooded Chardonnay 2018 R90.00 • Clos Malverne Devonet Sauvignon Blanc 2018 R80.00 • Flagstone Treaty Tree Reserve White 2017 R95.00 • Merwida Chenin Blanc 2018 R95.00 • Bonnievale Dawn 2018 R70.00 • Perdeberg Soft Smooth White 2018 R65.00 • Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2018 R99.99
Clive Torr
Irina von Holdt
To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA
Tinashe Nyamudoka
Nick Le Roux
I’ve heard people describe wines as New World or Old World styles. What does this mean? The term “Old World” usually refers to wines made in the traditional wine countries like France and Italy. They tend to be made to last for a long time and be mellow and understated in character. “New World” wines are those made in a fresh, young and fruit-driven style, accessible and suited to a more casual lifestyle.
YOUR WINE FAQS WE ANSWER YOUR WINE RELATED QUESTIONS
How do you tell when a wine has good balance? The flavour of a wine is made up of several components. It can have acidity, fruitiness, sweetness, smokiness, astringency and tannin, for example. If the acidity or tannin overwhelms the fruitiness the wine can be described as unbalanced. On the other hand, if the wine is merely sweet and fruity, without some acidity, it could also be described as unbalanced—or simply flabby. In a well balanced wine all the flavour components are present, but none dominates the others. That’s when a wine is described as being in balance.
A wine loving friend recently took a sip from his wine and said he thought it was rather “short”. His glass looked pretty full to me. What did he mean by “short”? He was probably talking about the aftertaste. The flavour of a good wine will linger on the palate, slowly fading like an echo. Some simple (and usually cheap commercial) wines vanish on your palate immediately after you’ve taken a sip. This may be fine at a picnic or poolside party, but the aftertaste— also known as the finish—of a good wine is part of the enjoyment.
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Panel Report | WINE
A SIGN OF THE TIMES Tasting wines that are BOTH CHALLENGING and EXCITING— Chardonnay and Unusual Reds
BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL CHENIN BLANC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: L’ Avenir Single Block Chenin Blanc 2016. ALSO LIKED: Doran Vineyards Chenin Blanc 2015, Pulpit Rock Reserve Chenin Blanc 2016, Joostenberg Estate Die Agteros Chenin Blanc 2016, DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2017. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: DeMorgenzon DMZ Chenin Blanc 2017, Earthbound Chenin Blanc 2017, Fleur Du Cap Chenin Blanc 2017, Joostenberg Chenin Blanc 2017, L’ Avenir Far & Near Chenin Blanc 2017, L’ Avenir Far & Near Chenin Blanc 2015, L’ Avenir Provenance Chenin Blanc 2017, Leipzig Chenin Blanc 2016, Mount Vernon Chenin Blanc 2017, Pulpit Rock Stories Chenin Blanc Viognier 2017, Radford Dale The Renaissance of Chenin Blanc 2016, The Winery of Good Hope Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2017, Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2016, Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2017, Waterkloof Seriously Cool Chenin Blanc 2017.
Like the latest fashion, wine reflects the times in which we live. When times are bad wines become mean and thin and when times are good they become fat and plush. So where are we now? Well, some producers are having a hard time while others seem to be unaffected. And so we have a Big Divide.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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CHARDONNAY: CHARMING OR NOT? We taste a lot of unoaked Chardonnays. It’s a trendy style. When winemakers don’t use oak they save a bundle on the cost of barrels. But without this extra expense, are the wines worth the trouble? Christine: “We could do this so much better, especially in our climate. With these low levels of alcohol there are holes in the palate. This could be an incredibly sexy category.” Greg: “Why bother when the alcohol is only 10.3%?” Clive: “All it needs is more ripeness, more time on the lees and some minerality.” Yes, well, right now that seems like a tall order. Clive again: “Not worth the walk to the fridge.” Colin says gamely, “I’d still rather drink any of these than a normal Sauvignon Blanc.” He also has some sage advice. “Check the label and go for the oaked versions,” he says. “Even when only oak staves or chips are used,
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it helps.” But all is not lost. At later tastings we find unoaked Chardonnays that charm us—expressive wines with good varietal character. There are still some of the usual gripes though—lack of ripeness (when you see an alcohol level under 13%, avoid the wine) and high acidity, often related to unripe or low alcohol wines. The oaked wines come in for more praise, naturally. As you would expect, winemakers are much more particular when it comes to vineyard and grape selection if they are going to put wines in imported oak barrels. Firstly, because of the cost, they select only their best grapes and, secondly, and to stand up to the oaking, they choose grapes that are both riper and more robust. So these wines always have a head start. Winnie: “Good varietal character, elegant wines with the oak wellmanaged. And that’s because it’s so expensive these days.” Clearly a sign of the times but here it’s had a positive impact. The word that we keep mentioning is balance, the result of carefully considering all the components—fruit, acid and oak—so as not to make mistakes which can end up being expensive. It’s another positive. We also find wines with character and richness made in a variety of styles. There’s the citrus style, a herbal style, and a floral, almost musky style and, top of the pile, a rich buttery style. Christine to a chorus of yeses: “What I love is that we are seeing some older wines— buttery, leesy and citrusy.” Maybe another sign of troubled times—wines that have remained unsold.
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL DRY WHITE BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: DeMorgenzon Maestro Blend 2016. ALSO LIKED: Allée Bleue Isabeau 2014, Tokara Director’s Reserve White 2015, Glenwood Grand Duc Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Flagstone Treaty Tree Reserve White Sauvignon Semillon 2017. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Creation Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2017, Doran Vineyards Arya 2017, Dornier Donatus White 2016, Glenwood Sauvignon Semillon 2016, Glenwood Sauvignon Semillon 2017, Hermanuspietersfontein Stertswaai 2016, Joostenberg Estate Fairhead 2017, La Petite Ferme White Blend Unlabelled 2017, Overhex Balance Classic Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2018, Rietvalla Estaenna Pinotage 2017, Simonsvlei SimonsBlanc NV, Stellenrust Kleinrust White 2018, Whalehaven Abalone White 2017, Whalehaven Abalone White 2016, Yardstick Marvelous Yellow 2016.
NON BORDEAUX BLEND WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Idiom Shiraz Mouvèdre Viognier 2012. ALSO LIKED: Bouchard Hannibal 2015, MAN Family Tormentoso Syrah Mouvèdre 2015, Nature Reserve Shiraz Grenache 2015, Flagstone Dragon Tree Cape Blend 2015. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Beaumont Family Wines Constable House Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Calitzdorp Tinto NV, Elemental Bob Retro Series Red Blend 2016, Erasmus Family Dry Red 2014, Flagstone Longitude Dry Red 2016, Footprint Merlot Pinotage 2017, Haut Espoir Gentle Giant 2012, Hidden Valley Secret 2015, Landskroon Cinsaut Shiraz 2016, Landskroon Paul Hugo Red 2016, Raka Spliced 2015, Rascallion 45RPM 2016, Rascallion Pandiculation 2015, Waverley Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2017, Waverley Hills SMV 2013.
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A seriously made Chard takes a couple of years to hit its stride. We agree that the 2015’s and 2016’s are outstanding right now, while the 2017’s have some way to go and the 2018’s still hopelessly too young. Nick sums up: “Gorgeous fruit across the spectrum. I would have liked to see a touch more oak.” Oh well, that’s just another sign of the times. A ROUND UP OF UNUSUAL REDS Lovely to taste, but hard to assess. That’s the view of the panellists when there are, for example, only three bottles of one variety on the table. But a pattern becomes clear when looking at the panellists’ comments over several tastings. The varieties that stand head and shoulders above the
rest are Cabernet Franc and Malbec. These are both Bordeaux varieties and are well suited to our climate, and our winemakers have good experience with them. To those of us who think back with nostalgia to the chocolate-box style of Cinsaut that we loved—forget it. That must remain a mere memory because the new Cinsauts are light bodied and savoury. It must be said, too, that they are a work in progress, so sometimes it’s a case of hit and miss. Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, the Italian varietals, are appearing more often and clearly need more understanding. Other than the occasional star, they generally disappoint. “Nebbiolo must stay in Piedmont,” says Clive. We also regularly see port varieties like Touriga Nacional and Tinta Francisca. “These don’t do well as standalone varietal wines,” says Irina. “I see now why they’re traditionally blended; they really need the support of their blending partners.” Another variety appearing more regularly is Grenache. It is widely planted in Spain and southern France and is eminently suitable for SA. It’s taken far too long to be planted in any volume. Often blended with Shiraz, it’s now appearing as a single variety— lighter in body and nicely savoury. Clive says: “I’d like to see more flesh on the Grenaches; they’re too lean.” “It seems winemakers have settled on a lighter style,” says Claude. “Maybe because the heavier style needs ageing.” Could that also be a sign of the times? Maybe there’s another explanation. “A general problem I have with virtually all of the Grenaches,” says Irina, “is that they are from young vines. At this stage there is none of that old vine concentration.” Christine puts the whole unusual red tasting into a nutshell. “The winemakers who did their research and chose the varieties that suited their properties,” she says, “made the best wines.”
WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL SHIRAZ WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Leipzig Shiraz 2015. ALSO LIKED: Org de Rac Reserve Shiraz 2015, Glen Carlou Syrah 2015, Rudi Schultz Syrah 2016, La Motte Pierneef Syrah Viognier 2015. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura Limited Release Shiraz 2012, Bon Courage Shiraz 2017, De Meye Myburgh & Milner Shiraz 2015, Lourensford Shiraz 2015, Meerhof Shiraz 2017, Mulderbosch Syrah 2014, Nico Vermeulen Shiraz 2014, Pulpit Rock Reserve Shiraz 2013, Radford Dale Nudity Syrah 2015, Radford Dale Reserve Syrah 2015, Radford Dale Syrah 2014, Seven Springs Vineyards Syrah 2014, Sutherland Syrah 2013, Thandi Shiraz 2014, The Winery of Good Hope Syrah 2016.
PINOTAGE WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Whalehaven Pinotage 2015. ALSO LIKED: Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2016, Whalehaven Pinotage 2014, Allée Bleue Pinotage 2016, Simonsig Pinotage 2015. WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Arendskloof Pinotage 2017, Bonnievale Pinotage 2017, Doran Vineyards Pinotage 2015, Dornier Pinotage 2015, Eagle’s Cliff Pinotage 2017, L’ Avenir Provenance Pinotage 2015, L’Avenir Far & Near Pinotage 2016, L’Avenir Single Block Pinotage 2015, Môreson The Widow Maker Pinotage 2015, Morgenhof Pinotage 2013, Ormonde Basson Pinotage 2015, Raka Pinotage 2016, Stellenrust Pinotage 2017, Uniwines Palesa Pinotage 2017, Waterkloof False Bay Bush Vine Pinotage 2016.
It seems WINEMAKERS have SETTLED on a LIGHTER style
To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za
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CONNOISSEUR’S
CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY
1. Lomond Merlot 2016 (Price R142.99) Dark chocolate mint, ripe sweet dark berries, black olives and prunes. Clean cherry flavours with a hint of fynbos and oak spice. Drink now or up to 5 years. PAIRING: Mediterranean lamb burgers, roasted pork loin, shepherd’s pie or grilled flat iron steak with blue cheese.
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2. Org de Rac Die Waghuis Red 2016 (Price R219.99) Ripe cherry and subtle plum fruit combine with layers of jasmine, cinnamon and warm oaky leather. Lively and rich with ripe fruit flavours. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Mushroom burgers, grilled salmon or barbecue pork ribs.
3. Muratie Martin Melck’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Price R189.00) Seeks to express with its concentrated dark fruit (black cherries, berries and plums) underscored by fresh acidity and framed by cedar wood and spice. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with red meat and cheese dishes.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
4. Meerlust Merlot 2015 (Price R305.00) Intense dark brambly fruit on the nose, mulberry, liquorice and damson plum with hints of dark chocolate and spice, tempered by a stony minerality. The medium-full bodied palate offers generous, ripe fruit with refreshing acidity, structured yet silky tannins.
7. Bader & Walters Pinotage 2016 (Price R79.99) A medium-bodied wooded red wine made from the well-known grape varietal that is uniquely South African. A well-balanced wine, boasting ripe plum, berry and coffee flavours. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with venison or your favourite savoury dishes.
Drink in twelve years from vintage.
PAIRING: Red meats, game and strong cheeses.
5. Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Price R415.00) A dense full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon showing notes of supple blackcurrant, black plum, cedar wood and spice which follows on to the palate. The palate offers additional characteristics of pencil shavings, tea leaf and molasses. Balanced with a good acidity and integrated ripe tannins. Drink now or in 20 years. PAIRING: Red meat and cheese dishes as well as lamb and beef.
6. Overhex Survivor Syrah 2017 (Price R199.99) This wine has intense flavours of spice, violets and blackberries followed by a soft finish with gentle, round tannins and oak. Drink now or until 2024. PAIRING: Barbecue chicken and grilled vegetables, spicy stir-fry pork with cabbage, or roasted leg of lamb.
8. Canto Unwooded Chardonnay 2018 (Price R89.99) This unwooded Chardonnay has an all natural acidity and with harvesting at full ripeness, this wine is the perfect combination between fullness, long mouthfeel and a crisp finish. Beautiful notes of gooseberries on the nose, with a refreshing citrus minerality on the finish. Made from 28-year-old dry land vines. Drink now or in 1 year. PAIRING: Enjoy with grilled chicken, grilled fish, oysters and salads with a citrus vinaigrette.
9. Quoin Rock Namysto Red 2015 (Price R175.00) Initial aromas of red berries with hints of green peppercorn leads through to layered profiles of tobacco and leather, rounding off into a plummy richness on the mid-palate and finishing off with soft, velvety tannins. Drink in 15 years from vintage. PAIRING: Will complement most red meat dishes and an array of cheeses, however, it is also delicious on its own.
10. Dombeya Boulder Road Shiraz 2014 (Price R156.99) A classy red that leans towards the more lithe side of the spectrum, rather than being heavy. The wine is a vibrant purple-red. It shows uplifting flavours of rose water, white pepper and violets. On the palate there is a recognizable silkiness and good structure. Drink now or up to 5 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with any red meats and French Provençal cuisine.
11. Org de Rac Die Waghuis White 2017 (Price R205.00) Crisp and fresh yet offering an intriguing complexity of flavour. Hints of minerals combined seamlessly with soft pear and citrus flavours, followed by roasted nuts and a pronounced mouthfeel. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Serve with your favourite duck dish.
12. Elemental Bob The Graveyard Tinta Barocca 2017 (Price R350.00) Lithe and feisty, this wine shows an animated pot-pourri and orange zest bouquet with sweet baking spice dusting, sour plum fruit curtailed, licked into shape by dry tail. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with hearty style meals such as stews and roasts.
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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14. Bader & Walters Shiraz Rosé 2017 (Price R72.99) A crisp, zesty Rosé that has a soft coral-coloured hue that invites a taste. Candy floss, strawberry and raspberry flavours on the nose follow through onto the palate. Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with light salads, pasta and rice dishes and seafood.
15. Welgegund Grenache Noir 2017 (Price R350.00) Bright, exuberant with light violet hues. The nose shows ample fruit, with freshly picked blackberries, cassis, raspberries, and a touch of floral notes. The palate is soft, lean and refined, showing dark fruit, chocolate black forest cake with subtle hints of cloves. Drink now or in 2-3 years. PAIRING: Serve cooler than your usual red wine and enjoy with roasted mushroom dishes.
17. Anthonij Rupert Optima 2014 (Price R200.00) Deep blueberry, cassis and spicy cocoa aromas. The palate is fresh and lively with an abundance of the same blueberry, cassis and cocoa flavours. Structured and graceful with velvety, soft-textured mouthfeel and lovely integration of oak and fruit. Drink now or in 10 years time. PAIRING: Enjoy with hearty style stews and roasts.
18. Quoin Rock Red Blend 2015 (Price R550.00) A red fruit profile, especially cranberry, comes through strongly on the nose. A complex, dense, juicy celebration on the palate where layers of fruit, wood, redberry and tomato cocktail harmonize together, creating a marriage between Old and New World. Can be enjoyed more than 15 years from vintage.
PAIRING: Serve alongside red meat dishes and rich cheeses. 13. The Koelenbosch Merlot 2017 (Price R105.00) This Merlot has a minty and eucalyptus nose, with dark fruit and vanilla rounding it off. The deep red colour adds structure to this well-rounded wine. Aged in a combination of French and American Oak barrels. Has won the Gold Wine Awards 2018, Gilbert & Gaillard Awards 2018, Ultra Value Wines Awards 2018. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Beef carpaccio, pizza with parma ham and Camembert.
16. Nuy Colombar 2018 (Price R76.95) Delicate notes of ripe guava and honeysuckle that gently pulls through to your palate. These attributes, along with its well-balanced sweetness and acidity, makes for the perfect crisp Colombar. Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with your favourite chicken and seafood dishes or a light pasta dish.
19. Perdeberg Soft Smooth White 2018 (Price R65.00) An easy-drinking and fruit-driven wine style for the aspiring wine drinker. The wine style bridges the gap between semi-sweet and dry wine resulting in wine that can be enjoyed by young and old alike. Enjoy 10 years from vintage. PAIRING: Enjoy on its own or pair with seafood, pizza or salad.
‘The palate is soft, lean and refined’ 3 0
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE
20. Canto Wooded Chardonnay 2017 (Price R195.00) An ideal example of a well-balanced wine with finesse and complexity. Citrus notes combined with butteriness on the nose and finishes with a creaminess and complexity. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with mushroom risotto or soft cheeses.
21. Muratie Melck’s Red 2015 (Price R120.00) While unpretentious, this wine is wellcrafted with its soft tannins, juicy black fruit and hints of warm spice and chocolate from careful wooding. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Pair with bacon cheese burgers, grilled steaks, some french fries or dark chocolate.
22. Cavalli Warlord 2016 (Price R189.99) Dark, intense ruby colour with concentrated fruit and soft, well-balanced tannins. Notes of blackcurrant, vanilla and cigar box. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with hearty-style winter roasts and stews.
Did you know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za
Dunstone Country Estate is a familyowned boutique winery in the heart of the tranquil Bovlei Valley, where the Stone Kitchen bistro and wine tasting venue serves up delicious country cuisine and award-winning wine. Whether staying at our elegant 4 and 5 star accommodation options or enjoying a family day out, there is plenty to enjoy with cellar and farm tours, scenic trail runs, mountain biking, horse riding through vineyards, along with a large indoor and outdoor play area and an animal petting zone for the kids. Experience the unique.
EAT, DRINK, STAY AT DUNSTONE THE ULTIMATE FAMILY ESCAPE TO NATURE
W W W. D U N S T O N E . C O . Z A Address: Bovlei Road, Wellington | Tel: 021 864 1504 Email: wine@dunstone.co.za
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2019/03/28 11:40 AM
T
hose of us who have journeyed far along the muddy road of life will remember the Lieberstein Revolution. Like the better known French Revolution, the Lieberstein Revolution changed the lifestyles of millions of people. I remember it fondly. When I was growing up wine was regarded with something akin to reverence in our family. It was an expensive commodity like caviar, that was served at formal banquets. Or so we believed, because it never appeared on our family table. It was strictly for the rich. Then, in 1959, Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery (SFW) took a bold step and launched a cheap, semi-sweet white wine with a jazzy label showing a bunch of juicy grapes and the name Lieberstein. Unlike other wines it was untainted by snobbery. Springbok Radio aired a catchy jingle proclaiming Lieberstein to be for “anywhere, any time”. The rich people gasped in horror as their poorer neighbours began to serve wine with 3 2
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their humble food. “Good gracious! Some people are even opening cheap wine at picnics, for heaven’s sake! How vulgar!” I was a junior assistant in a large wholesale company at the time and, as the youngest staff member, I was ordered to entertain the chairman’s grandson, freshly arrived from England—and an Etonian, no less. Panic! What do you serve to an Eton man when your budget is a junior clerk’s pittance? Fortunately, I owned an attractive cut glass decanter (a wedding gift, so far unused) and filled it with Lieberstein, at 29 cents a bottle, and hoped for the best. My snooty guest took a tentative sip, rolled his eyes ceiling-wards and sighed. “Ah,” he muttered, “such a pleasure to taste a fine wine. Is it French? Chablis, I think. It’s disgusting the way they’re trying to flog cheap stuff to everyone these days.” I smiled sagely and nodded, not knowing the difference between a Chablis and a Chevrolet. I realised then that you could fool most of the people
most of the time, when it comes to wine. By 1964 Lieberstein was the biggest selling single label wine in the world, with sales exceeding 31 million bottles! I have come to believe that poor people get much more fun out of wine than rich folk do. If you can afford to spend R1000 or more on a bottle of wine, you expect to taste greatness as a matter of course. You’re easily disappointed. “I think the ’89 was a better vintage, don’t you? Shall we open a Lafite instead?” Down at the bottom rung of the social ladder, where I live, wine is largely about the excitement of the hunt—the thrill of finding a pleasant red at less than R50 a bottle. You spread the news joyfully among your friends. “Hey, Fred, there’s a special on Casa du Plonque. Only R45 a bottle, and it’s damn good stuff.” I regularly pay homage to the memory of Lieberstein and thank it for putting fun into wine. It’s not listed on the label, but fun is the most important ingredient in any bottle.
Illustration by: Chloé Damstra
Lieberstein Revolution How one wine changed the game by David Biggs
SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR
2019/03/28 11:41 AM
Let the
HUNT BEGIN Sugarbird® Gin Releases EASTER EGGS for ADULTS Sugarbird® Gin has just launched their own clever spin on Easter eggs—with their new range of Sugarbird® Gin Eggs. The eggs come in a pack of 6, offering the full Sugarbird® Cape Fynbos Gin range, including two delicious new flavours; Sugarbird® Juniper Unfiltered & Sugarbird® Pink Pelargoniam—a new pink Rose Geranium flavoured gin.
WHICH SUGARBIRD® GINS ARE MADE FOR YOU? 1. Fynbos Original Gin, available in 1000ml (R449, 500ml (R299) & 50ml (R49.99) bottles. 2. Juniper Unfiltered Gin, available in 500ml bottle for R299. 3. Sugarbird® Gift Box, available in G&T Gift Box which includes 1 x 500ml Sugarbird Gin and 4 x Tonics for R299
ww w. s u g a r bi r dgi n. com Tel: (021) 012 5300 | Email: brand@steelcutspirits.com.
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2019/03/27 12:52 PM
A traditional gin with a contemporary touch – Classic redefined. Hints of the legendary Kukumakranka plant reflect The Spirit of Darling. A versatile gin for those with vivid imaginations and for whom taste is a journey and not a destination.
order online at www.wineofthemonth.co.za or call 021 492 4100 visit us at 5 Main Street, Darling www.spiritofdarling.co.za
w w w.spirit ofdarlin g . co. z a
CLASSIC MYSTIC ECLECTIC