Wine Plus magazine No. 43 by Maria Netsika

SUMMER 2012

Santorini power Malagousia Naoussa Cosmopolitan grapes in Greece Greek sweet wines

Thessalonikiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culinary landscape Wine Road of Thessaloniki Street food in Greece Fish & Wine Halkidiki best of

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THE WINE PLUS MAGAZINE

Here comes the summer again Welcome summer! As always, you arrived not a minute late. Just one moment before we stopped bearing with our lives, crushed between an economic crisis and relentless dead-ends. We missed the sun right over our heads! We missed swimming in the blessed sea. The strong winds, the red watermelons. The taste of salt on the sun-burnt skin. The multitude of intensive colours. The a-b-c of pleasure captivating the mind, splashing any self-control. Wild thoughts flying over desks, traffic jams and pollution, travelling to the world of the summer’s dolce farniente. Dear readers, This issue of the Wine Plus magazine – the second in English – welcomes the summer and the freshness of Greek white wines on our palates. With the complex presence of the reds and the honey-like taste of the sweets in our glasses. With the extravagant austerity of street food in our mouths. The strong smell of fish in our noses. With a thousand and one images from walking in Thessaloniki, escaping to Halkidiki and travelling to the Greek islands and into our memories. Enjoy this issue. Enjoy the Greek summer. Maria Netsika

Contents

Heard it through the grapevine Wines in Vogue!

Santorini power Assyrtiko & Santorini: an unbeatable couple

Celebrate Greek wines Doug Frost MW/MS reports New York City’s new focus upon Greek wine

The charm of Greek Sweet Wines The Mediterranean elixir, sheer poetry in a bottle

Thessaloniki’s culinary landscape History and culture cross paths in the cuisine of Thessaloniki

Malagousia A variety that can explain how Greek wine producers re-discover the quality dynamics of the domestic vineyard

2012 Wine tasting safari in Greece Maria Netsika explores the exciting potential of well-known and unusual Greek wines

WINE PLUS magazine No 43 SUMMER 2012 Free press

Naoussa Are you ready to give into this very Greek taste of Xinomavro?

Cosmopolitan grapes in Greece

Eating in Thessaloniki Restaurants, fishtavernas and ouzeri… a town circuit

Halkidiki best of!

Street food in Greece Bougatsa, koulouri or soullaki? Take full advantage of tasty delicacies

Fish and wine: a love affair Fish, fish and yet again... fish and the wine companion

This summer vacations hot spots A hot list of thegastronomic-mustswhile-travelling

Summer in Greece Summer memories, small secrets reminisced by Wine Plus magazine

The Wine Road of Thessaloniki For travelers who adore great food, wine and the urban charm of Thessaloniki

Publisher WINE PLUS M. NETSIKA & SIA E.E. 5 Kariotaki St, 546 45 Thessaloniki Τ: +30 2310 888311 F: +30 2310 888312

Editor Maria Netsika

Translation Sakis Kazakis

Design Red Fish

Contributing Editors Giannis N. Baskosos, Eftihis Bletsas, Denni Kallivoka, Evi Kallini, Evi Karkiti, Melina Melikidou, Niki Mitarea, Kostis Zafirakis

Photos Heinz Troll

Print Chromotyp S.A.

e-mail: info@wineplus.gr www.wineplus.gr

Eating in Athens Wine-bars and wine-restaurants a haven for wine lovers

Heard it through the grapevine

Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko blends

Of all Greece’s native white grape varietals -and there are about 400Assyrtiko is probably the most fascinating. Although nowadays it is grown in many regions, its historic home is Santorini (p. 10). Santorini Assyrtiko is known for its pure, bright fruit and zesty acidity.

Few wine enthusiasts worldwide associate Greece with crispy, refreshing dry white wines, but that is a misconception easily debunked if you’ve ever had a taste of the whites produced by blending Assyrtiko with Sauvignon Blanc or/and Malagousia (another brilliant indigenous grape, p. 12).

Photo: Assyrtiko Grande Reserve, Santo Wines

Moschofilero

Photo: Vivlia Hora Estate, white

A Greek white variety characterized by a delightful elegance, with notes of rose and basil; Moschofilero appeals to wine lovers who appreciate concentrated fruit. So refreshing, it can be consumed on its own, or makes a terrific partner to a wide range of dishes (chicken, pasta, shellfish, seafood, salads).

Savatiano Attica wine region is now enjoying a renaissance, thanks to the efforts of several new wine devotees who make serious wines from indigenous and cosmopolitan grapes. Taste the finesse of Savatiano varietal wines. Serve as an aperitif but could imagine them going very happily with vegetables and white fish dishes.

Photo: Mantinia, Domaine Tselepos

Photo: Savatiano, Domaine Papagiannakos Roditis

Muscat

An indigenous white variety found almost everywhere in Greece. When cultivated and produced with care, allowed to realize its full potential, the Roditis grape makes fine and zesty wines with delicious fruit, personality yet delicacy too.

In Lemnos a glorious expression of Muscat of Alexandria is produced, with a rich fruity character. Samos’ white Muscats are always among the legendary wines. Charismatic gorgeous elixirs, with great aromas. Explore Greek sweet wines, terrific dessert wines with a Mediterranean heart (p. 20).

Photo: Asprolithi, Oenoforos

Photo: Anthemis, Samos Coop

Xinomavro

Agiorgitiko

The noblest red grape variety of northern Greece; devotees praise the wines’ rich fruit, tasty acidity and untamed tannins, which age beautifully (p. 16). Distinctive examples of blended wines are produced from Xinomavro, as well. The most exciting come from blending it with Syrah or/and Merlot.

Nemea, the most thrilling red wine region in southern Greece, is famous for its local Agiorgitiko grape. The Agiorgitiko produces wines that are full of ripe fruit, sunshine, soft sexy tannins, lots of flavour and good body. Food friendly wines with a big range of foods that go very well with them.

Photo: Diaporos, Kir- Yianni

Photo: Agiorgitiko, George Skouras

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Tsantali vineyards in Mount Athos

God’s special cellar At the northernmost of the three peninsulas jutting into the Aegean Sea from Halkidiki, Mount Athos is known for its breathtaking natural beauty and its remarkable history as a unique spiritual center. Hosting one of the most active orthodox monastic communities, the “Holy Mountain” gave birth to an outstanding way of living where prayer and humbleness meet the need for harmonious creation. It was in 1969, in the middle of a storm, when Evangelos Tsantalis sought refuge among the monks at the domain of Chromitsa. As an heir of a long family tradition in wine making, his attention was caught by an abandoned vineyard by the monks and immediately offered his help in tending it. This was the starting point of the rejuvenation of the blessed vineyards of Mount Athos and the monastery of Saint Panteleimon which lead to the introduction of unique wine labels to the ‘outside world’. More than four decades later, the vineyards managed by TSANTALI at the Metoxi of Chromitsa have become established among the most exquisite wine destinations and wineries worldwide, respected for the high quality of grapes and the distinctive viticultural tradition they represent. One could argue that an almost divine force has mixed all the right

ingredients in the blessed scenery of the vineyards in Mount Athos. On the one hand, the ideal climate combining mild winters and warm summers, and on the other hand the rich soil, the natural surroundings of mountains and pine forests and sea have contributed to a matchless microclimate. The sea abates the high summer temperatures and at the same time offers the necessary evening moisture to the vineyard soil. The evening temperature is kept low by mountain freshness, which hinders the onset of the sugar breakdown cycle and facilitates a better maturation process. This magnificent natural basis produces grapes full of rich and complex aromas; the indigenous varieties of Assyrtiko, Roditis, Limnio and Xinomavro, side by side to Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc, Grenache rouge and Syrah, are cultivated with care at the

204.5 hectares of TSANTALI vineyards, 80.7 hectares of which are organically grown. The faith of the Tsantali family in the uniqueness of the Mount Athos viticultural tradition, has offered a series of high quality wine labels throughout the years. From the AGIORITIKOS, the first local wine of Greece launched in 1975 and still enjoying strong consumer loyalty, to the multiawarded METOXI CHROMITSA, METOXI X and the amazingly rich organic red wine of AGIORIITIKO ABATON. It must be noted that under the label of ABATON there is also a premium tsipouro available, the traditional Greek distillate used by the monks for welcoming their guests. It was in September of 2005 when a vintage of a specially bottled red wine of Chromitsa was offered by the Tsantali family to the Russian President Vladimir Putin during the latter’s visit to Mount Athos, which then gave birth to the wine label KORMILITSA. After a long period of thorough viticultural examinations and wine tastings, the title of the Official Purveyor of Kremlin was awarded to TSANTALI, the first winery ever to receive this honor. KORMILITSA GOLD has been established as the Official Wine of Kremlin, holding a high status in every presidential inauguration and in all ceremonies. Today the TSANTALI winery by respecting the passion of winemaking and the aspiration of promoting quality wine operates in 55 countries around the world. Its mission remains to be a true story-teller of the unique viticultural traditions of Greece.

Join the TSANTALI world: Website: www.tsantali.gr Facebook: www.facebook.com/tsantali.gr

Heard it through the grapevine

Rosé wines

Rosé and sparkling

Whether serving a homemade aioli (the great garlicky dipping sauce) or pan-seared scallops grilled in oil and garlic, Greek Rosés will be an ideal match. Expect flavours and aromas of raspberry and strawberry with hints of wild herbs and pepper. Just a liquid love!

One of Greece’s most delicious sparkling rosé wines, is produced in western Macedonia, on the mountain plateau of Amyndeon, from Xinomavro grape. Full of rich fruity character, it’s lovely as an aperitif and drink it with spicy grilled chicken salad, tapas or antipasti, salmon and… the love of your life.

Photo: Thema rosé, Pavlidis Estate

Photo: Rosé sec Amyndeon, Union of Cooperatives of Amyndeon Cosmopolitan grapes

Retsina, Quintessentially Greek

The cosmopolitan varieties, covering still less than 10% of the total vinegrowing surface, have excellently adapted at the Greek ecosystems (p. 18). On the Mount Meliton slopes, at Porto Carras, flourish Greek white and red varieties but so do Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and many of the wines that are produced here are their blends.

Delicious fresh fish, tzatziki, cheese salad, Greek salad, fried zucchini and peppers... everything is on the table and awaiting the wine. Why not join us for a taste of Greek retsina! You’ll find a line of wellproduced retsinas, with fragrances and flavours balancing well between the grape and the pine. Photo: The pine’s tear, Kechri

Photo: Château Porto Carras Tsipouro

Wine touring

Tsipouro, the traditional Greek distillate, always seeks meze. So, next to the aniseed tsipouro you can put some salty seafood, fish, and hard yellow cheeses. On the other hand, if it is “without” you can go with black, bitter olives, crispy fried vegetables, and smoked fish.

The expansion of wineries, tasting rooms and related amenities throughout Greece has upgraded the country’s appeal for wine tourists. In all locations you will find tasting rooms staffed with owners, winemakers, or extremely knowledgeable staff, along with excellent dining and lodging options.

Photo: Tsipouro Tsilili

Photo: Boutari Crete Winery

Map of Flavours 2012 1-2 December Warehouse C, Thessaloniki Port Map of Flavours (Hartis ton Gefseon) an important wine and spirits fair, is held annually at Thessaloniki, organized by Wine Plus. The annual reunion of the wine and gastronomy world in Thessaloniki, will this year celebrate its 10th anniversary! www.wineplus.gr

Thessaloniki Food Festival

Map of Flavours

Food fairs, tastings, workshops, dinners, gastro-visual interventions and various events all around the city. Thessaloniki creates a new, tasty institution! TFF highlight: every Tuesday make your way to numerous Thessaloniki restaurants offering a special menu for just 10€. http://foodfestival.thessaloniki.gr

Map of Flavours The best wine experience in Thessaloniki

Warehouse C, Thessaloniki Port

1-2 December 2012

10th

anniversary

Organised by:

Τ: +30 2310 888.311 info@wineplus.gr

www.wineplus.gr

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Celebrate Greek Wine | Doug Frost MW/MS

Celebrate Greek Wine by Doug Frost MW/MS

A few weeks ago, long time Temecula vintner Phil Bailly noted that while his home region had defeated the scourge of Pierce’s Disease, most wine fans seemed wholly ignorant of it. But he noted with some gleeful irony, “we’re known throughout the world now.” Maybe the Greek wine industry can take some of that equanimity to heart. Last week Stellios Boutaris smiled broadly when he said to me, “Everybody keeps asking about our financial crisis, so at least they’re thinking about us.” And he’s right. Maybe it’s my Midwestern optimism but Greece’s prevalence in the headlines seems to be opening more doors for Greek wines. Greek wine exports are improving and notable U.S. wine lists and wine stores are helping fuel this growth. Moreover, with the first Celebrate Greek Wine week just a few days away, Greek wine fans could be forgiven a flush of pride in seeing a coordinated march of Greek wines into New York restaurants and stores this June. Stalwarts such as Molyvos have always been there for great

Greek wine, but others like Matusya, Loi, Blue Water Grill, GastroBar, Momokawa and Prime are also offering special prominence to Greek wines to Celebrate Greek Wine. But it’s not just New York City; and importantly, it’s not Greek restaurants that are leading the charge (with ample respect to those like Molyvos, Trata, Kellari, Okeanos, Thalassa, Bahari Estiatorio and others) but dedicated wine professionals in restaurants of every stripe. The great misapprehension of many Greek importers and distributors has been

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to focus upon Greek restaurants in their sales efforts and, in so doing, have undercut the legitimacy of Greece’s recent vinous achievements. If Greek wine is not appropriate to the best cuisines, and is reserved only for Greek food, of what true merit can it be? To this writer, the best Greek wines are not only adequate to the task of improving foods from any other country; they possess characteristics that ought to be seen as uniquely appropriate for the table. Whether white or red, most top Greek wines are comparatively low in alcohol even when fully flavored. Assyrtiko at 12% alcohol is exciting and intense; the reader may trust that Chardonnay at 12% is most often as dull as rocks. Agiorgitiko, Malagousia, Moschofilero and Xinomavro offer this same moderating trait. And all of these grapes enjoy the other remarkable, native Grecian asset: in spite of much warm to hot climate viticulture, the wines retain distinct acidity. Few other grapes and no other wines regions can boast this; after millennia of grape breeding Greek grapes are able to retain such structure in the face of sometimes withering summer sun. Such achievements shouldn’t continue unnoticed, though around the U.S. they most often do. Greek vintners answer the call for wines of lighter alcohol and better food sensitivity, but wine writers yawn, sleepy perhaps from another round of 15% plus alcohol Napa bombers. Winemakers around the world are told to eschew the better-known French varieties for more authentic, indigenous varieties. They do so and then they are told that their grape names are unpronounceable. But as the Brits like to say (and they are a stoic breed), this is so much winging. Markets, like people, are slow to change; big deal. High quality Greek wine, like it or not, is a relatively new phenomenon. And it’s true that the grapes can be hard to pronounce, even if Grüner Veltliner is too. But like Grooner, a little persistence will win the day. I predict that wine clerks will soon be crooning the glories of Greece’s autochthonous white grapes.

The red grapes are more challenged than the whites. Agiorgitiko is easy to love: Xinomavro is not. But the American market has been awash in taut, citrusy white wines for years (Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc, anyone?); Assyrtiko and Moschofilero (and many others) offer bracing acidity and so much more – certainly more than Pinot Grigio, but then perhaps we have set the benchmark too low. And while certain large importers seem to have eased off the gas when it comes to promoting Moschofilero; that grape’s great moment may be at hand. Muscat has just surpassed Sauvignon Blanc as America’s favorite white wine (other than Chardonnay), rising from obscurity to acclaim in only a year or two. Of course, purists will resist, seeking to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. Muscat is not Moschofilero, they cry. Yeah, but does that really matter? It smells like it; it tastes rather like it, with the caveat that Moschofilero is always dry and Muscat, at least in its current iteration, is not. But I must argue that Moschofilero’s time may be now and the wine industry’s Achilles heel is its vituperative insistence on purity, when a drink ought to be a drink and purity ought to be damned in favor of an even better drink. Which Moschofilero is. So here we are at a moment of truth for Greek wines. New York City’s new focus upon Greek wine ought to inspire the rest of us to rise up and ask for our own cities to offer us the chance to drink these wines. Too many restaurants have offered a few Greek wines by the bottle and then used the lack of sales to justify their continued disinterest. That’s so weak. At the prices Greek wines demand, these wines deserve to be sold by the glass. Offered by the glass, customers can experiment with them, and all of us who are ardent lovers of these wines are convinced that having tasted them, they will choose them again. And again.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Santorini power

A wine tasting safari in Greece 12

by Maria Netsika

Santorini power

Santorini is my favourite island. I admit it! And it goes back to the old days. Since I first stepped my foot at Fira and I was blinded by the bright white houses, shining under the relentless sun. My eyes followed the contour of the red cliffs, plunging into bottomless ends and I imagined the caldera flooded by the sea. That was it. Love at first sight! I became slave eternal. And rightfully so, as the beauty of Santorini has no match. An island of many graces, wine being one of its most interesting ones. The Santorini vineyard The island’s road network leads you from the capital, Fira, to Emporio, to Perisa, to Akrotiti, higher up to Pirgos, then down to Messaria, Kamari and north at dreamy Oia. Chose your destination at will and… sum up your resistance to hordes of people. No matter where you go, you will always be surrounded by vineyards. It is true that, in Santorini, tourism is chasing vineyards. However, the Santorini vineyard is still resisting nowadays covering some 12.000 -13.000 stremma (1.200–1.300 ha) from 40.000 stremma a hundred years ago. The vineyards have the power to consume your gaze, despite your will. Lying low and round-shaped, they are nothing like the tall, strong vines found in most places. The Santorini vineyard is definitely peculiar. To start with, it is the oldest in Greece, as some of the vines are older than 300 years old. And that is because phylloxera, that annoying insect that still destroys vineyards globally, never came to this island. Thankfully, Santorini’s sandy ground is hostile to the insect. Vineyards are grown in this land, covered with lava, holystone, rust and ash from the nearby volcano. Being a vine in Santorini is not easy. You need to fight serious drought, as rain is rare. Frequent north winds, the same ones that allowed the ancient Greeks to call the island Anemoessa (wind-ridden) still blow relentlessly, swiping everything on their run. But there is a solution for everything. It is the dense nocturnal mist, rising up from the caldera that offers plants much needed humidity, whereas viticulturers take care of the winds. They prune the vines low and intertwine them together like a basket protecting the grapes from the wrath of the sandstorm. And if you need numbers, you will be amazed of how low the production per stremma is: just 300-400 kilos!

Grapes and wines Assyrtiko dominates the Santorini vineyard. It is a white variety maintaining a relatively high acidity, even when it is fully ripe. This grape is used by winemakers to produce the Santorini P.D.O.* wine. A refreshing and lively white, known for its pure, bright fruit, zesty acidity and mineral aftertaste. A unique total! With these attributes in its suitcase, the most dynamic Greek white grape started its journey from Santorini and has conquered Macedonia, Central Greece and the Peloponnese. The Santorini P.D.O. wine also contains Athiri and Aidani, two other whites grapes from the Aegean vineyard. On the other hand, the sweet dessert wine Vinsanto is made by Assyrtiko and Aidani grapes. The island has a long-standing tradition on sweet wines, apart from dry ones. To produce the Vinsanto, local winemakers sun-dry the grapes. Which means they spread grapes under the sun to dehydrate and shrink, so that their sugar content increases. Post vinification the wine ages in oak barrels to produce a sweet elixir with a deep golden colour, a soft, velvet taste and aromas reminding of figs, honey and chocolate. Santorini also brings a red proposition to your table. Mavrotragano is one of many unknown varieties of the island’s vineyard (add Katsano and Voudomato in this list), that dedicated winemakers –to the delight of wine aficionados– have managed to save from extinction. This grape gives us a wine of intense character, just like any other thing produced on this beloved island. Santorini produces many bottled wines, to be found on almost every culinary corner of the island. Do you prefer light and fruity wines? Or rather rich ones? Or maybe aged wines? The options are many, for all tastes, to choose from. The next challenge for Santorini winemakers is to create wines that can be aged. If you are lucky, try the 2009, 2003 and 2000 vintages. Impress yourselves to the complexity, the vivacity and their mineral character.

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Assyrtiko

Santorini

Assyrtiko by Gaia

Santorini

Estate Argyros

Santo Wines Santorini P.D.O.*

Domaine Sigalas Santorini P.D.O.

Wild Ferment Gaia Santorini P.D.O.

Hatzidakis Winery Santorini P.D.O.

French oak fermented Santorini P.D.O.

This Santorini reveals rich mineral and flower aromas, as well as a citrus-flavoured character. Somehow it combines fabulously fruit, honey and spice flavours with a savoury minerality, leading to a dry finish.

Sigalasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Assyrtiko always delivers great quality in just about any vintage. Vibrant and youthful, this beauty is pure pleasure with fresh citrus aromas bursting from the glass, layers of mineral notes and a core of tangy acid. Brilliant now, it should evolve nicely over the next 5 years.

Assyrtiko grapes from the upland vineyard of Pyrgos. Grape must left to ferment in small inox tanks and in new French oak barriques. Dr. oenologist and winemaker Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, producer of this wonderfully elegant, crispy, mineral Assyrtiko, is determined to discover every dimension of the beloved multifaceted variety.

Textbook Assyrtiko: crystalline, great volcano minerals and no shortage of fruit. Complete, confident and zesty. Crisp and clean, is a superior example of Santoriniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wonderful purity and typicity. Perfect for your favourite grilled fishes.

Dynamite from very old Assyrtiko vines (150 years old in family-owned vineyards), made in the classic oaked style fermentation plus 6 months ageing in 500 lt French oak barrels. The wine possesses great intensity, good acidity to bring it into balance, citrus and smoke in the mix too.

* Protected Denomination of Origin

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Malagousia

Malagousia An outstanding white Greek grape variety

Flowery and citrus touches with a satin feel and a soft, spicy taste with honey aromas. Malagousia is a flattery to the palate, slowly acquiring the attributes of an international wine. Yet, in the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s, this grape was considered extinct and very few knew about it. Malagousia wines appeared in our glasses in the past 15 to 20 years. Consequently, this is a variety that can explain in detail how Greek wine producers re-discover the quality dynamics of the domestic vineyard.

Allegedly, Malagousia comes from Aitoloakarnania, the southwest edge of mainland Greece. In the past, the variety covered a big part of the greater Nafpaktos area. At some point it was abandoned, obviously because of the great attention it requires, because the grape is sensitive. It would have probably disappeared, if Domaine Porto Carras in Halkidiki did not plant it in an experimental vineyard. Famous oenologist and wine maker, Vangelis Gerovasileiou, tells us: ÂŤIn 1977, when I first started as the oenologist of Porto Carras, I found this experimental vineyard, where the late professor of viticulture at the University of Thessaloniki, Vasilis Logothetis, had collected various forgotten varieties, totally unknown at the time. Among them, Malagousia. I tasted a few grapes and found the quality potential of this variety and I produced, as I remember, a barrel of sweet white wine full of citrus and lemon aromas. That wine was tasted by Mrs. Kourakou (Stavroula Kourakou, PhD, directed the Greek Wine Institute for 20 years and also chaired the O.I.V. - International Organization for Viticulture and Wine) and she was thrilled. It was the reason we decided to multiply the few roots we had and in a few years, in 1980, we created at Porto Carras the first dry Malagousia. That is how the variety was saved, because later on the experimental vineyard was abandoned and thus

Malagousia would have surely been lost. For the first time outside Porto Carras, Malagousia was planted in 1981 in my own vineyard in Epanomi, in some 40 stremma (4 ha), now extending in 145 stremma (14.5 ha). I remember, later on the Wine Institute was interested in the variety and its director asked for some roots. I gave them to the viticulturer and winemaker Thanassis Paparoussis and he gave some more to the winemaker Roxani Matsa. Today, this variety has spread all over Greece. It is grown even in areas which are not suitable for it and, as a result, it does not always give us excellent qualityÂť. The wine profile It is very easy to recognise the Malagousia wines. The sensational nose gives us clean flower and herb aromas, including citrus, lemon and peach. They have a relatively high alcoholic content, with a full, round and deliciously spicy taste matching perfectly the Mediterranean cuisine and, specifically, vegetables, oysters and fish. Malagousia mixes well with Assyrtiko, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. In this summer issue of the Wine Plus magazine, we taste 5 single-variety wines.

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Malagousia

«Μ» Malagousia

Single Vineyrd Domaine Gerovassiliou Epanomi P.G.I.*

Domaine Porto Carras Sithonia P.G.I.

Matsa Estate Pallini P.G.I.

Babatzimopoulos Estate Vertiskos Slopes P.G.I.

Avantis Estate Evia Slopes P.G.I.

Here’s something exciting from Epanomi, a coastal district in Thessaloniki region. Domaine Gerovassiliou is owned by oenologist Vangelis Gerovassiliou, who has shown extraordinary skill and success with both Greek and international varieties. This P.G.I. is incredibly expressive with vibrant notes of flowers and exotic fruit. It’s perfect!

Vibrant pale yellow colour leads to beautiful nose of citrus and apricots and hints of spice in the buttery aftertaste. This full-bodied wine is shiny, like a summer day in Halkidiki after a dip into Sithonia’s sea. Estate’s vineyard is one of the most beautiful on the Greek landscape and a must-see when touring wine country.

From one of the most recognized vine-grower and organic cultivation pioneer in Greece, Roxani Matsa, comes a typical Malagousia, well-balanced by a fresh seam of acidity. Lovely fruity aromas lead to exotic spice nuances, and a long finish.

A very attractive Malagousia. Look for aromas of peaches on the nose with flavours of lemon drops and tropical fruit combined with a long flinty finish. Organic too.

This Malagousia comes from estate’s vineyard in Evia. Floral, crisp, clean and something you really want to plant your lips on. Just a hint of sweetness makes it perfect with slightly sweet or spicy dishes.

* Protected Geographical Indication

Kir-Yianni Estate 16

Naoussa vineyards: Grape varieties & clones

The Kir-Yianni Estate was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry, when he left the Boutari Wine Group, the premium family wine company that his grandfather established in 1879. The Kir-Yianni Estate continues a long family tradition focusing on the production of high quality wines which combine style with authenticity and offer true enjoyment, from grapes produced at the Estate´s extensive vineyard holdings in the two wine regions of Naoussa and Amyndeon, on the two sides of mount Vermio in North-Western Greece. Today the Kir-Yianni Estate, led by Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, follows its vision into the next phase of its history, by dynamically exploiting the cornerstones of the Kir-Yianni philosophy: desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the end consumer. History The Estate in Naoussa, one of Greece´s leading AOC regions, is located in Yianakohori, at the highest point of the viticultural region. The 50 hectare Estate was bought by the Boutari family in the late 1960s. By the creation of the Yianakohori vineyard, Yiannis Boutaris, spearheaded the revival of the prized Naoussa Appellation and paved the way for the production of terroir wines, which revolutionised the scene in Greek winemaking in recent years. In the early 1970s, the Estate was planted solely with Xinomavro, the indigenous variety of North-Western Macedonia, in double vertical shoot positioning vineyards, a technique used for the very first time then in Naoussa. During the period 1985-1990 Merlot and Syrah were planted, in selected vineyard parcels, adjusting perfectly to the microclimate, and giving great results alone or mixed with Xinomavro. In the years 2004 - 2006, 28 hectares of vineyards were re-planted with Xinomavro and other Greek and international varieties, focusing on the right vineyard sites and appropriate Xinomavro clones, under the supervision of Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, a pioneering Greek agronomist and viticulture specialist. In 2009, 10 more hectares were acquired by Stellios, making the KirYianni Estate in Naousa one of Greece’s largest vineyards. The Amyndeon Vineyards are located at the winemaking village

of Aghios Panteleimon at the shore of Lake Vegoritis, defined by the Kaimaktsalan and Vitsi mountains. Thanks to the endless energy and efforts of Yiannis Boutaris, Amyndeon, once a neglected wine region, is today recognised as one of the most promising AOC zones of Greece. The region is characterised by a unique microclimate, due to the high altitude and the four neighbouring lakes. The Vineyards and the Wineries The Naoussa vineyard covers 60 ha and lies at an altitude of 280−330 m. It is divided in 38 parcels, each with its own terroir, which are vinified separately giving a unique character to the final blend. The soil is mostly clay and sandy clay. The micro-climate of the area is defined by lots of rain and snow in the winter, mild and wet springs and hot dry summers, that are usually cooled down by the cold breezes from Mt Vermion. During particularly hot summers drip irrigation can be applied in order to avoid extensive plant stress. The density of plantation is 3500 – 4000 vines per ha, with a yield of 2–2.5 kg per vine. The vineyard is planted with the varieties Xinomavro (50%), Syrah (15%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) and other experimental varieties (Malbec, Petit Verdot, Negro Amaro, Mavrodaphni). The winery is equipped with a total of 4000 hl temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. In the underground cellar there are 900 American and French 225 and 500-litre barriques, while bottles are stored in a ground-level, air-conditioned warehouse, also used for packaging. The “Koula” or “Konaki”, the traditional watchtower at the heart of the Estate, has become the winery´s emblem and houses today a modern winetasting room, exhibition facilities, as well as, the residence of the Boutari family.

Kir-Yianni and Xinomavro For over a century, the name of the Boutaris family is connected with quality Greek wine, and especially with quality Greek wine made from Xinomavro, the noblest Greek red-grape variety. Building on tradition while seeking innovation, we produce wines believing that the future of the Greek vineyard is closely related to the noble indigenous grape varieties like Xinomavro.

The vineyards in Amyndeon are located at an altitude of 700m and cover a total area of 16.5 ha. The soil here is sandy and poor, thus favouring the production of wines of exquisite finesse and rich aroma. The microclimate of the area is known for its cold winters and hot summers, while the presence of the four lakes tempers the continental climate preventing extreme weather conditions. Furthermore, Kir-Yianni has contracts with local producers for another 40 ha guaranteeing the provision of first class fruit. International white varieties - Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer – as well as indigenous varieties – Roditis, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, and Malvasia Aromatica - are grown here. In Amyndeon, the crash facility is equipped with temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with a total capacity of 15000 hl. The facilities also feature a sorting table, cold soak facilities, pneumatic presses and a 200 barrel underground cellar. The application of the Integrated Cultivation methods, in all Kir-Yianni vineyard activities is a management decision based on the family’s philosophy of respect for the environment. Furthermore, integrated cultivation ensures high quality for all the products of the Estate. The application of integrated cultivation is certified by the Organization for the Certification and Supervision of Agricultural Products AGROCERT, since 2004. Production – products Selection is the key word: Each part of the vineyards at the Kir-Yianni estate is harvested separately, two or three times, based on the phenolic ripening of the grapes. The grapes are then brought to the sorting table, to pick the best. A similar picking phase is also performed during winemaking and ageing, in order to ensure that only the best is bottled. Kir-Yianni is in constant experimentation regarding the quality and type of wood (origin, capacity, burning, size of pores) used in the barrels. The main aim is always the creation of wines of a special character: Rich but refined aroma, acidity to provide body and ageing potential, perfect balance in the mouth and ease of combination with various dishes constitute the distinct style of Kir-Yianni wines, which makes them truly appealing for the modern consumer. In the Kir-Yianni Estate in Naoussa the flagship Kir-Yianni Estate (Yianakohori) is produced, as well as, the 100% Xinomavro Ramnista, and the super-blend Dyo Elies. In 2008, a single vineyard modern style Xinomavro, Diaporos, was also launched. In 2011 Ble Alepou, Blue Fox in English, a Bordeaux blend was launched in selected markets.

In the Kir-Yianni Estate in Amyndeon the focus is on whites: Tesseris Limnes, a unique blend of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, the classic Samaropetra, a Sauvignon Blanc and Roditis blend, Petra, a 80% Roditis and 20% Malagousia blend and the successful rosé Akakies, 100% Xinomavro. Also, Paranga, the house red blend is produced by grapes sourced mostly in Amyndeon. Exports The Kir-Yianni Estate exports its products in many countries, including the USA, Canada, Germany, France, China, Russia, Belgium, Switzerland, Austria, etc. These exports today account for 15% of the total sales of the company, and the aim is to bring this value to 50%, until 2015. Strategy “Good wines are made in the winery and great wines are made in the vineyard” says Stellios Boutaris; He believes that during the next five years, Kir-Yianni will reach its true potential, through the use of the grapes from its new vineyards, and the know-how acquired during many years of research on the vine and the wine (Naoussa is the only Greek wine area where an extensive clonal selection programme has been performed). “Our vision is to upkeep the potential of the Greek vineyard in general, and the Macedonian vineyard in particular, and to establish ourselves in the international map of wine-making. Our principle in Kir-Yianni is that innovation builds tradition! Emphasis on indigenous grape varieties, modern wine-making methods, a professional approach and consumer-friendly wines, are the foundations to build and reach our goals” says Stellios Boutaris. KIR YIANNI WINES Kir-Yianni Estate (Yianakohori): Red Dry Wine, P.G.I. Imathia, Xinomavro and Merlot Diaporos: Red Dry Wine, P.G.I. Imathia, Xinomavro Ramnista: Red Dry Wine, P.D.O Naoussa, Xinomavro Dyo Elies: Red Dry Wine, P.G.I. Imathia, Syrah, Merlot and Xinomavro Blue Fox: Red Dry Wine, P.G.I Imathia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah and Xinomavro Tesseris Limnes: Dry White Wine, P.G.I. Florina, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer Samaropetra: Dry White Wine, P.G.I. Florina, Roditis and Sauvignon Blanc Petra: Dry White Wine, P.G.I. Florina, Roditis and Malagousia Akakies: Rosé Dry Wine, P.D.O. Amyndeon, Xinomavro Paranga: Red Dry Wine, P.G.I. Macedonia, Xinomavro, Merlot and Syrah

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Naoussa

Naoussa A star re-born!

Elegant, dynamic and absolutely seductive, Naoussa never ceased to reward its true worshipers. Recent developments to “modernize” its taste, however, are early indications that the time has come for Naoussa to play again in the big leagues of wine communications and make a lot of new friends. Give Naoussa a chance on your table. You will not regret it! The superiority of Xinomavro The Naoussa P.D.O. wine is made exclusively of Xinomavro grapes. They are small, with an intense red black colour and acute taste, even when ripe. It thus justifies its name (literally, “sour-black”), and the typical taste of the wine. Well acclimatized for mountainous climates, Xinomavro is grown in more areas than any other variety in Greece. The variety’s predominance is present from the slopes of Central Macedonia until the mountains of Pindos. To the north, the vines reach the borders with FYROM, whereas to the south, they invade Thessaly. Except from the Naoussa area, Xinomavro is also grown in Amyndeon, Goumenissa, Pella, Siatista, Grevena, Velvendos, Vertiskos and Rapsani. Xinomavro in Naoussa easily achieves perfect ripeness. It has extraordinary potential in fermentation and aging aromas with a perfect balance in sugars, tannins and acids. The local ecosystems favour the variety. The vineyards placement, covering some 8.000 stremma (800 ha), is privileged. They are grown on the southeast slopes of mount Vermio, thus protected from the cold northern winds, while enjoying the rays of the mid-day sun. Today we have reached the point where winemakers discuss the creation of sub-zones with special quality attributes, within the wine producing area. Naoussa: then and now With a high acidity and strict tannins, the young Naoussa is not an “easy” wine. Given time though, with ageing and patience, the wine becomes softer, like the taming of the shrew. It develops an aromatic complexity and a unique charm. Add to that the extensive ageing capacity and you realized why wine journalists from all over Europe compare Xinomavro to divas such as the Pinot Noir and the Nebbiolo. Despite its charm and its sophisticated expression –or, maybe, thanks

to that same attributes– Naoussa is not particularly popular. Naoussa winemakers are aware of that and are working towards a more “modern” version of the wine. With more volume and smoother tannins but keeping the clear, special character of Xinomavro. Naoussa on your table Based on the (almost) infallible principle that local products marry well between them, Naoussa wines are the perfect match to many dishes of the local culinary tradition. Cooked red meats with spicy sauces, savoury game from the Vermio forests, traditional filo pies, meatballs locally named “boubaria” and cheese (such as the salty batzos) are some of the local products accepting well the intensive character of this wine. Also take note of the names of some traditional dishes which are no longer cooked, not even by housewives at home. But they did remember them, they cooked them and they presented them in an event created by Wine Roads of Northern Greece in September 1997 during the celebration of Thessaloniki European Cultural Capital. Back then I tasted and recorder the following dishes: ‘klosti’ cheesepie, ‘paspala’, ‘platsinta’, pickled mushrooms, ‘gaiganas’, garlic caviar, ‘taratori’, ‘louvoudia’ kid, chicken with onions and trahanas, veal moulina. The Wine Roads Following the road signs to Naoussa, you enter the most famous wine producing area of Northern Greece. The vineyards are spread around you in tall linear shapes, beautiful long stripes defining the slopes and the hills. Among them, the wineries have created stylish welcome and visiting spaces, where you can taste the wines in situ and purchase your favourite labels. Most wineries are members of the Wine Roads of Northern Greece network (www.wineroads.gr).

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Ramnista

Grand Reserve Naoussa

Xinomavro

Grand Reserve Naoussa

Paliokalias

Kir-Yianni Naoussa P.D.O.

Boutari Naoussa P.D.O.

Argatia Macedonia P.G.I.

Vaeni Naoussa Naoussa P.D.O.

Dalamara Winery Naoussa P.D.O.

My style of wine: hearty, gutsy, made with real gusto! From the Yiannis Boutaris estate in Yianakohori, it shows all the hallmarks of a Naoussa Xinomavro you want. Full-bodied and impressively ripe in blackberries, currants and oak, gaining depth and turning ever more elegant and detailed, with tannins that give this traction.

A truly legendary wine, Boutari’s Grand Reserve Naoussa is a wine that Xinomavro lovers simply can’t get enough of. Temptingly rich and layered, with complex mocha, plum and wild berry fruit that’s spicy and aromatic. If you want to know what classical, well-aged Naoussa smells and tastes like, buy this one.

I’m extremely fond of complex Xinomavro reds with firm tannins and lovely backbone of acidity. Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, agriculturalist specializing in winemaking and her husband Panagiotis Georgiadis have been able to solidify the extraordinary character and the top quality of this very special –and rare– wine vintage after vintage.

Here’s a stunning Greek red from the Naoussa Co-op. It shows the bright vibrancy that Xinomavro grape is known for but with additional backbone and hints of compelling vanilla spice from the oak. With beautiful fruit and spice, it spent 24 months in barriques, plus 12 months in bottles.

Dalamara family propose a new age Xinomavro. There’s an ultra-ripe fruit character that makes the wine remarkably forward and lush. It’s dry, full-bodied, with a long finish. For those who think serious wines only comes in one colour!

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Cosmopolitan Grapes in Greece

Cosmopolitan Grapes in Greece

On one side there are our own, the very Greek grapes, the well-known Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Assyrtiko, and Roditis, as well as some obscure, nearly extinct varieties that in recent years have become the object of much research, experimentation and extremely successful winemaking. On the other side we find the cosmopolitan divas; Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay... What would you say defines their relationship? Rivalry? Noble competition? Harmonious coexistence?

Let us begin at the beginning. Once we were aware only of our own, the Greek, grape varieties. Each of them was locally cultivated by their growers in the manner taught by their fathers and their grandfathers before them. Some of the more daring, of course, tried planting vines from nearby villages or vineyards, but, in any case, the vineyard map of Greece was populated exclusively by local varieties. Later, in the 1960s, we saw the timid emergence of vineyards hosting imported grapes; Yiannis Carras in Sithonia and Mr. Averof in his Metsovo â&#x20AC;&#x153;Katogiâ&#x20AC;? were the pioneers that listened to the beat of the world rhythm and brought the first roots of Cabernet Sauvignon to Greece. The cosmopolitan grapes boldly entered the game, having the powerful competitive advantages of yielding quality wines from virtually any soil, and names easily recognized by wine lovers the world over. It was reasonable therefore that they tickled the curiosity of the Greek consumer, who in turn led the winegrowers into cultivating them and winemakers into experimentation. And so, in the past 40 years the foreign varieties have been cultivated in most regions of the country. Covering still less than 10% of the total vinegrowing surface, they have excellently adapted at the Greek ecosystems. After the pondering that their growth initially

spurred, we can finally say that the situation is clear: research and experimentation have revealed the virtues (and the temper) of each variety, and identified their best usage. The big winner in all this, of course, is the consumer, for whose benefit it all happened in the first place. Today he is still capable of finding his well-loved, familiar wines such as Naoussa, Nemea and Santorini, and all the wines of appellation of origin or geographical indication made of his favourite Greek grapes. Additionally, he can familiarize himself with cosmopolitan flavours by trying the offerings for whose production one single grape variety is used, the single-variety wines. On other occasions he savours the product of a blend of grapes, either Greek or foreign, with the most popular marriage that of Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, and, in many interesting bottles, local varieties wedded to imported ones. And so it appears that the landscape of Greek wines has become clear -the Greek and internationally known varietals are past the stage of competition, and now lead parallel, and sometimes coinciding, paths.

WINE

Alpha Estate

Chardonnay

Syrah

Megas Oinos

Kormilitsa

Alpha Estate Florina P.G.I.

Arvanitidis Estate Thessaloniki P.G.I.

Wine Art Estate (Ktima Techni Oinou) Drama P.G.I.

Skouras Peloponnese P.G.I.

Tsantali Mount Athos P.G.I.

Alpha Estate in west Macedonia makes us realize just how well Sauvignon Blanc can perform in Greece. This multi award-winning wine shows the jump-outof-the-glass fruitiness and freshness that SB lovers love. Zesty and refreshing with intense lime and grapefruit aromas and flavours.

Arvanitidis Estate is a small, family-owned, bio winery in the Thessaloniki’s semimountainous Askos district. This Chardonnay is their flagship wine. The higher altitude creates balanced and savoury, robust but not heavy wines. This is the style of Chard I love: fruity but subtle, mouth-watering for food but not overpowering. Perfectly calibrated for pleasure.

A masterfully-made wine from a terrific producer in Drama region. Lovely aromas of blackberry, cassis, vanilla and black pepper lead to rich concentrated fruit flavours, exotic spice nuances, and a long toasty fruity finish. Rich and spicy, it leaves you wanting more and more and more…

A kaleidoscope of scents and flavours, George Skoura’s Megas Oinos is a fascinating study of Agiorgitiko-CS blend at its best. Lots to admire in this bone dry and rich in blackberry and cedar flavours wine. Clearly made in a leaner style than today’s high-alcohol cult style, it trades richness for elegance and finesse.

Love is red, seductive and to be shared. Love can be hard to find. So is the Kormilitsa wine of Tsantali, established as the Official Wine of Kremlin! The cool climate of Mount Athos gives this Cabernet SauvignonLimnio blend a wonderful mouth-watering juiciness to balance the racy tannins and round texture.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | The Charm of Greek Sweet Wines

The Charm of Greek Sweet Wines

Our subject is sweet and fragrant, to accompany the silken texture of summer. I offer you the Sweet Wine, and propose to entice you with the range of its colour palette, bewitch you with the richness of its fragrance, and uplift you with its tender, honeyed taste. If you were to ask me how sweet wines are made, I would, in turn, ask you if you have ever, in August, found yourself in Crete, Santorini, Zakinthos, or even in the northern Peloponnese, Nemea, or Aigialia. Here, the observant tourist’s eye will surely spy, either in vineyards or on home terraces, grapes laid upon wicker beds or strung on wires, drying under the sun. In this process the grapes shrivel, part of their juice evaporates, and the remaining juice is enriched in sugar. These sundried grapes next go to wineries where they are pressed and barrelled and begin to ferment, just as in any other vinification process. However, when, at a certain point, alcoholic fermentation ceases, these wines will continue to have a sweet taste because there are unfermented sugars remaining. This is the process responsible for the sun-dried wines that you might have heard of under the name of the Samos “Nectar”, the Santorini “Vinsanto”, the Cyprian “Koumantaria” or Tuscany’s “Vino Santo”, among others.

Sweet Wines and Their Tasty Companions If you prefer your sweet wine as an aperitif, choose a fresh Muscat with an explosive aromatic character. The other traditional place for a sweet wine is at the end of the meal, when it arrives at our table along with fruits and desserts. In this case, the aged Samos and Visanto are in order. If the dessert is chocolate, you should honour it with Mavrodaphni.

All these wines are called “Vins Naturellement Doux” because in these wines, the alcoholic fermentation ceases naturally. But there are also the “Vins Doux Natureles”. These are sweet wines in which fermentation is interrupted by additional alcohol. Such are most of the sweet wines that we find on the store shelves, including the famous Greek vins de liqueur such as the Samos, the Muscat of Lemnos and the Mavrodaphni of Patras.

In any case, whatever possible combination you might choose, be aware that fresh, sweet, white wines are served very cold, from 8 to 10ºC, while aged, white and dark red wines best reveal their charm at 11 to 14ºC.

But did you know that sweet wines are also perfect companions to main dishes? Western Europeans, for example, accompany their fois gras (a definite must on their Christmas table) with a glass of Sauternes. You can try, if you are daring enough, a dried apricot and plum-stuffed chicken with a wine from Samos, or you can put duck with chestnut and orange sauce next to an aged Mavrodaphne. Perhaps you will find it easier to accompany certain cheeses such as Kopanisti or Mizithra, or even a cheese pie or a soufflé, with a Muscat of Lemnos.

FOOD

Thessaloniki’s culinary landscape

Thessaloniki’s culinary landscape This year Thessaloniki celebrates 100 years since its liberation from the Ottoman empire. Along with the city celebrate all of us who love her and care for her course in time. All of us who know that our city is in the position to be optimistic and open minded about the future, in many ways. Gastronomy is an exemplary such way.

Of course, if we examine the recent culinary landscape of Thessaloniki in the past 20-25 years, we will encounter many disappointments, such as the inglorious end of restaurants that put their mark on the gastronomic credo of this city after the war. Clearly, many other restaurants started business in the meantime. Some of them, in the name of modern, trendy cuisine, had a hard time specializing their offering. Right next to them, ouzo and meze tavernas multiplied in a frantic pace, bringing to the masses famous dishes which, in the past, became known all over Greece.

A short walk to the Modiano arcade market, the Vlali market (Kapani), the Vatikioti market at Athonos square, the Flower market (Louloudadika), the Bezesteni, the Malakopi arcade or the Bit Bazaar, will unveil a true feast of colours, aromas and tastes.

However, it is equally certain that the culinary course of this city is founded on solid grounds. Today, we understand the lively expression of the city’s gastronomic life through people who love, respect and propagate “good food” regardless of its Greek or foreign origins. Admittedly, the highly valued haute cuisine has always had a hard time finding roots in our city. But some times I think to myself that the reason why Thessalonikians are somewhat skeptical towards new tastes, exotic cuisines and other novelties in their dishes, is that they have been raised to steamed mussels, juicy spicy burgers (soutzoukakia) and other mouth-watering mezedes still served in the city’s uncountable fish-tavernas, ouzo-places and meze-joints.

Search for the sweet yellow cheese from nearby Sohos (kaseri Sohou), and the Dorkada yoghourt, the ever-present values bringing up valuable childhood memories.

Thessaloniki’s renowned products Thessaloniki, as a glittering Balkan capital, has always received the generous offerings of the fertile land surrounding it. Furthermore, as a multi-cultural city, it has always collected goodies and delicacies from all over the world. These products can still be discovered in its traditional markets, making the city’s visitors curious, marveled and perhaps a little bit jealous.

If you are a visitor don’t even think of leaving this city without having tasted the local sesame bread (koulouri), the famous cream bougatsa (filo pastry) and the Panorama triangles filled with fresh cream.

Also famous are the huge, crimson cherries from Ossa, hand-picked in June, and the exquisite beans and oregano from Arethoussa. If you find yourself on an excursion to Agios Antonios or Kalamoto, do not neglect to buy pasta and pies made with traditional techniques. Finally, you will be pleasantly surprised by well known wines produced around the big city, both in its meridian and its mountainous areas. You will discover them using their colour, their aroma and their intoxicating taste as your guide, or by looking for the P.G.I. Thessaloniki, Messimvria, Epanomi and Vertisko on their label (p. 24).

Serving delicious events across Thessaloniki

Food & Wine Fair Gastronomy Master Classes Cooking with Kids Gourmet Walking Tours Eating out in Thessaloniki: every Tuesday menu at 10 â&#x201A;Ź

W I N E T R AV E L

The Wine Road of Thessaloniki

For travellers who adore wine, great food and the urban charm of Thessaloniki

rom the flatlands to the shores of the Thermaikos Gulf and to the highlands of the region’s mountainous environs, the Thessaloniki region produces many renowned wines. Let yourself go and travel with them, guided by the senses, by their dazzling colours, aromas, and flavours. Vineyards and Wines from Nea Mesimvria Start your wine explorations at Nea Messimvria, a town settled by Greek refugees from Eastern Romylia (in Bulgaria), who were already well-versed in viticulture and brought their knowledge with them. Today, the white Roditis grape is mainly cultivated. It is typically blended with another white, the Zoumiatiko. This marriage makes for Messimvria P.G.I. wine. The Hidden Charms of Kalohori Just before entering Thessaloniki, turn left towards Kalohori. The sheltered lagoons of the Thermaikos Gulf create a unique ecosystem of low-lying reeds and dry branches, which hide cormorants and other water birds, and create the perfect environment for seagulls to dive for their dinner. The view of the water, with Thessaloniki in the distance, is spectacular. From one perch, you can see the Gulf and then the lights of Thessaloniki with mount Hortiatis in the background. Kalohori is home to the Kehris Winery, a must-see and stop for a delicious tasting of wines and select traditional liqueurs. (www.kechri.gr) Epanomi, along the coast of the Thermaikos The Wine Road of Thessaloniki goes through the seaside resort of Agia Triada and leads southeast, to Epanomi. Along the way it heads to Akrotiri, at the edge of the Thermaikos Gulf, where surfers strut their stuff. You can gaze at the birds from the wetlands next to the sand dunes and enjoy a quick late afternoon dip at the shipwreck… or a dip into the seafood mezedes at the tavernas nearby. A visit to the well-manicured Domaine Gerovassiliou should not be missed. Beyond the great wines and gorgeous grounds, it houses an impressive collection of antique cork screws (www.gerovassiliou.gr). Epanomi’s terroir is sandy and rich in shells and sea life fossils; the

surrounding hills, in fact, were formed as the sea pushed in over millions of years. The area has a temperate Mediterranean climate and hot summers. Its proximity to the sea brings cooling breezes, which prevent the sudden maturation of the grapes. Epanomi’s microclimate, as a result, makes for an ideal vineyard. The Regional Wines of Epanomi are produced from a wide variety of grapes, including Assyrtico, Malagousia, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier among the whites; and Syrah, Merlot, Grenache Rouge, Limnio, Mavroudi, Mavrotragano among the reds. The region’s high-altitude areas Once out of the coastal area, the place to seek cool and calm is in the region’s mountainous climes and on to the slopes of mount Vertiskos. The natural surroundings are lush and green, the air clean and crisp at 650 meters; these mountain reaches are home to some of the most beautiful villages, among them Ossa, Lefkohori, Sohos and Askos. The soil is mostly clay, which is excellent for grape growing, and the differences in temperature, from hot days to cool nights, especially in summer months, also favourable to the vine. In the highlands of this wine road, most vines are cultivated on the slopes of Mt Vertiskos. Xinomavro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are cultivated side by side with the white varieties of Athiri, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The dry rosé Mt Vertiskos P.G.I. is produced from the Xinomavro variety. Finally, the Thessaloniki P.G.I. wines are produced from all the varieties cultivated in the region and make for a large range of wines. A visit to Domaine Babatzimopoulos and the Arvanitidis Estate (www.arvanitidis-winery.gr) will whet your appetite for a visit to nearby tavernas. Here you will find dishes based on the region’s traditional products, choice meats, greens and seasonal, fresh vegetables.

Arvanitidis Estate Askos, 57016 Thessaloniki, Greece T:+30 23950 61626, F: +30 23950 61646 www.arvanitidis-winery.gr

Arvanitidis Estate is located at Askos, a quiet picturesque village near Thessaloniki, on the eastern slopes of Mount Vertiskos, at an altitude of 500 m. Amidst this beautiful region, with green hills of modest height, on the location of an old family vineyard, agronomist Thanassis Arvanitidis, together with his brother George, created in 1999 a modern vineyard and started Arvanitidis Estate. The vineyard Today, the privately owned vineyard covers an area of 5 ha and is steadily expanding. The aim of the owners is to vinify grapes only from privately owned vineyards, in order to fully control their quality.Â The broader region of Askos is characterized by clay soil that favours viticulture. The location of the Arvanitidis Estate linear vineyard was carefully selected for its soil composition, well balanced in sand and clay, ideal for restrained plant growth. The climate is continental, characterized by a significant difference in temperature between day and night during summer. The vineyard has a south-western exposure to the sun, ideal for the sunlight and temperature conditions in Greece. During summer, the region receives an upcoming breeze from Lake Koronia that favours the ripeness of grapes. The presence of this breeze also hinders the appearance of wine diseases and helps maintain the grapes in good health. As a result, organic cultivation is successfully adapted.

The entire vineyard is organically cultivated All interventions to the vineyard, especially those aiming to plant protection, are compatible with the maintenance of the biological balance of the plants below and above ground, and aim to the protection of the consumer. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah are the varieties currently cultivated, while Nebbiolo and Barbera are cultivated experimentally. In 2008 new parts of the vineyard were planted with Greek varieties Malagousia and Xinomavro to create the future wines of the estate. The estate Wine production is taking place at the small, fully equipped winery, within the family estate, a lovely property with pine, flowers and an orchard, located at the edge of Askos village. The existing winery has a space for vinification and a separate one for the ageing of the wines in oak casks. The wines Stunningly refined yet ultra complex and food friendly: A typical Chardonnay of fresh character. A truly elegant Malagouzia with Greek nose. A modern expression of the classical Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot blend. A fleshy and velvety Merlot. A purple, peppery Syrah.

FOOD

Street food in Greece

Street food in Greece by Eftihis Bletsas

Street food is a modern gastronomic trend with exponential growth all over the world. As a result of this trend, the demand, the supply and the variety of offerings is continuously increasing.

Why is that so? It is the modern modus vivendi and the contemporary living and working habits. The daily tempo is ever increasing and more and more people are adopting the easy way of “eating out”. Of course, many are those walking on the street with a snack, just to keep them until lunch (or dinner) time. Finally, there are those among us who will eat something just for the joy of savouring the food. Something the smelled nice during their walk, or something that they simply wanted to taste for the first time. There are countless options. There is something for every taste, at any moment. When in Greece, the street food aficionado is considerably lucky, with many options to choose from. For starters (or for breakfast if you want), you can chose from a selection of filo pastry and country-style pastry such as feta-cheese pies, spinach pies and various herb pies. Many also favour pies with potatoes, chicken, leak, zucchini and even pumpkin! Personally, I favour the eggplant pie and the mushroom pie, which are both rarely found in traditional bakeries... In northern Greece, a special pie called bougatsa is dominating the street food landscape. The most renowned is the Serres bougatsa, usually found in four flavours: cream (usually frosted with cinnamon and confectioner’s sugar), feta cheese, spinach and minced meat. Also from Thessaloniki comes the sesame-covered, pretzel-like koulouri. It is nutritional, tasty and inexpensive. Many koulouri vendors also sell a wholemeal variation, which is even tastier but also healthier. Savour it with some orange juice and make it one of the best morning snacks one can have on the street. The undisputed ambassador of Greek street food is the souvlaki. It is

the main reason international fast-food chains never stood a chance in our country. The history of our national snack starts in Levadia or, according to some others, since the day Alexander the Great first introduced the kebab from the East. The wooden stick with small pieces of pork meat on a roasted slice of bread was the beginning and still remains the traditional choice. Of course, nowadays the souvlaki has evolved and one can now order their souvlaki with pork or veal, with a burger or sausage and, obviously, the Greek kebab or gyro, everything wrapped on a fried or roasted pita bread, in a small sandwich or in a Cyprus pita, assorted with fresh tomato, onion and tzatziki. It is a full meal to relieve your hanger or even knock you out, if doubled! Another pleasant global trend, also quickly growing in Greece, is healthy fast food. This is about fast food chains offering very tasty and very healthy options, such as fresh salads, creative sandwiches and wraps, soups, smoothies and juices. The whole lot in a pleasant environment compelling to young people, thus creating a new nutritional trend. Closing this note, one should not forget fresh fruit, which can be a very smart and nutritionally conscious choice as a quick snack out of home. Fruit are sold everywhere. Grocery stores, super-markets and street vendors can be found in every neighbourhood. Coupled with some dry nuts or a few roasted chestnuts, I consider fruits the perfect nutritional choice for a balanced, nutritious mini lunch that will satisfy your appetite. Tangerines and bananas are on the top of the fruit-snack list, as you don’t need to wash them. Do not forget them! You can always have one in your bag. They will make you feel better, and give you a smile!

WINE

Wine Art Estate Wine Art Estate Mikrochori, 66100 Drama, Greece T: +30 25210 83626, +30 25210 83585, F: +30 25210-83632 www.wineart.gr

Wine Art Estate was created by the civil engineer Yannis Papadopoulos and the architect Yannis Kalaitzidis, both successful professionals in their own field. Yannis Papadopoulos planted in 1993 a small family vineyard in Mikrochori and started, as a hobby, to vinify his first wines in a small simple outlet. Two years later, in 1995, Yannis Kalaitzidis joined the venture. The result was Wine Art Estate and the first range of products, Techni Alipias, a red, a white and a rosé wine, were introduced and gained immediately their share of the quality wines market. Wine Art aims to present how well certain Greek and cosmopolitan varieties are adapted to the microclimate of Drama. Towards this direction, a new wine, Chardonnay Idisma Drios was put to market in 1999. This was the first of a new range of products, Idisma Drios (“sweetly oaked”), to be followed by Assyrtiko, Malagousia, Merlot and Syrah. In great vintages, the Estate also vinifies a limited quantity of Nebbiolo. The vineyards The Wine Art Estate vineyards at Mikrochori overlook Mount Pangeon, in antiquity home of the cult of Dionysus and the Orphic mysteries. The vineyards were planted on carefully chosen south-facing slopes, well protected against late frosts. The soil is mainly sandy-clay, suitable for the cultivation of the Greek and foreign varieties planted and ideal for the development of their characteristics. The French grape varieties Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, the Italian varieties Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, the Portuguese variety Touriga Nacional and the indigenous varieties Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, Lemniona are carefully tended, to ensure top quality fruit. Wine Art Estate has currently 16 ha of vineyards at Mikrochori. Another 10 ha was planted at Kria Vrisi, a location known since ancient times for the

cultivation of the vine and the production of wines, as indicated by the ruins of a Sanctuary of Dionysus. The winery The elegant modern winery of Wine Art Estate is located on the outskirts of the village of Mikrochori. The first section of the establishment was built in 1998 and in 2007 an adjacent building was built on the other side of the road. The construction work was completed in 2008 and the winery is now housed in a complex of two handsome buildings, while the two “towers” that mark the edge of both buildings prove architectural aesthetics and harmony. The two sections of the winery are connected by an underground tunnel, which houses the cellars. With a covered area of 3.000 m², both on the ground and underground, it has a production capacity of 300.000 bottles. The functional, spacious production area was designed specifically for the new building. It houses the state-of-the-art equipment for the production of quality wines. A computerised central control system constantly monitors the entire production process, intervening automatically and generating a record of each fermentation tank. Visits Wine Art Estate welcomes visits from wine-lovers and people who want to learn at first hand about the enchanting world of wine. The visit includes a tour of the production areas and underground cellars, and finishes in the brand new wine-tasting room, where visitors can taste the wines. On the ground floor of the new building there is an elegant restaurant, especially designed for corporate presentations and other wine-related events. The visitor gets the impression of an attractive, comfortable, warm and friendly place.

FOOD

Fish and wine: a love affair

Fish and wine: a love affair by Maria Netsika

Fish, fish and yet again... fish! A divine food. Delicious, light, nutritional, totally compatible to the summer.

Shiny, blade-long joey mackerel (skoubri), ash coloured chub mackerel (kolios), striped seabreams (sargos), silver white pandoras (lithrini), huge bonitos (palamida) and gilthead seabreams (tsipoura), white soles (glossa) and sharpsnout seabreams (hiona), wide red skates (vatos), red surmullets (barbouni), humble picarels (marida) and discrete sardines (sardela), anchovies (gavros), sand smelts (atherina). Shells (ostraka), oysters (stridia), carpetshells (kidonia), shrimps (garida), crayfish (karavida), mussels (midia), calamari and squid (soupies). Grilled, fried or boiled with a few salt grains and a lemon juice with olive oil dressing, or served with white sauces or even dark ones, with wine and tomato, fish are the true summer divas. To save you from the cumbersome task of selecting the appropriate wine, we will do that for you. So here is our advice: Small fry fish The small fish, especially the humble picarels and anchovies, will certainly be worth using your frying pan. The light taste, their crispy texture and the inevitable greasiness caused by the frying process, will naturally lead you to white wines with a faint taste of lemon. They are totally compatible to the finest wines from Greek varieties. Among your first choices, which will not disappoint you, should be a Moschofilero, a Vilana, a Savatiano or a good Roditis. The same wines go well with the typically Aegean culinary challenge: the surmullet.

Fried fish with white sauce When faced with a well buttered meunier sole, toadfish tails poached with mustard, or even a fine seabass in white sauce, assorted with small and round potatoes, like ivory buttons, you need to turn to more full-bodied but still, lively wines. I can not think of a better choice than a Chardonnay that has been slightly aged in the embrace of an oak barrel. Fish in love with the grill This is the silver-gray gilthead seabream with its royal crown, the tender sea bream, the aristocratic dentex, and my beloved striped seabream. The crĂ¨me de la crĂ¨me, as many believe, of fish is full of iodine. With a rich, sweet flesh and chewy texture showcased by unprocessed salt. They all go well with the acute zippiness and the metallic aftertaste of the Assyrtiko, especially those grown in Santorini. Fatty fish Bear in mind that the fatter the fish, the more it needs a strong wine with higher alcoholic volume and a rich taste. Which means that if you are about to treat yourself to a generous salmon or a bonito filet, or a joey mackerel filet, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d better opt for an equally generous white wine, be it an Assyrtiko, a Malagousia, a Chardonnay or a Viognier. But if you go for a grilled sardine, I will kindly ask you to indulge yourself to a new generation retsina, with its fine aromas and its discrete raisin taste.

Big, open sea fish White groupers (sfirida), dusky groupers (rofos), greater amberjacks (mayiatiko) and tunas (tonos). Those fantastic... monsters threatening the whole universe with their huge mouths, can be cooked in many ways. They can be grilled, cooked on steam or be buttered in the oven but they always offer their tight flesh and their rich, delicious taste. They demand a wine partner of a similar gravity. Therefore, you should put your richest aged Chardonnay on ice. But if you like your fish cooked with tomato, garlic and wine, then I dare you to accompany it with a mild, fresh and light red, such as a young Nemea.

What about seashells? This note is about fish, but we could not help ourselves, so here are some fundamentals for the moment you will find yourself in front of a platter full of shiny oysters. Undoubtedly, a fine dry champagne will give you the ultimate gastronomic pleasure. Alternatively, try a very dry, Burgundy style Chardonnay. If you come across very fresh, very delicious mussels, try a vivid white: its zippiness will fight the saltiness. Try an Assyrtiko, a Robola from Cephalonia or a Debina from Epirus. They will stand to the challenge. At some point, the time will come for delicate shrimps, fine crayfish or the more humble slipper lobster and the aristocratic lobster. Your first choice in this case should be a delicate Moshofilero, a mild Chardonnay or a fresh Trebbiano.

FOOD

Eating in Athens | Wine bars & Wine restaurants

Eating in Athens

Wine bars & Wine restaurants by Niki Mitarea

Niki Mitarea discovers Athens through its elegant wine bars and restaurants where wine is the main ingredient. Follow her!

Cucina Povera

Fabrica de vino A relatively recent, yet already popular, arrival in downtown Athens focusing on wine. The creators of this wine bar offer their clientele the opportunity to taste wines and then buy them or enjoy a bottle with their friends in situ. The building, dating back to 1880, includes a visitable cellar, an impressive bar hosting all the labels, and a stone cellar for aging wines. Wine is at the centre stage, accompanied by small mezedes dishes. You can also opt for a glass of wine, choosing among 70 (!) labels, in two contents: 75 ml for wine tasting and 150 ml for regular consumption. (3 Emm. Benaki St., opposite the REX cinema, tel. +30 6944 621992) Scala Vinoteca A small, simple, well designed space. Versed bottles cover one side of the main room, thus offering great ideas to those savouring their wine at the bar. The menu includes many interesting dishes, some of which showcase traditional Greek ingredients. The wine list offers an impressive number of labels from the domestic and the international vineyard. (50 Sina St., Kolonaki, tel. +30 210 3610041) Cucina Povera Three years ago, chef Manos Zournatzis and one of the leading Greek sommeliers, Yanis Kaymenakis, left the expensive restaurants they were working at, and joined their inspirations under the roof of restaurant Cucina Povera. The title also expresses the culinary philosophy of the kitchen. Simple, honest, fresh and well-cooked food. Wine dominates the place, through its wise collection, frequently updated by Kaymenakis with wines brought along from his travels. In the midst of an economic crisis, in times where the values of life are revisited, the two partners have

Le petit somelier

dared the challenge. According to all indications, they have succeeded. (13 Eforionos St. & Eratosthenous St., Pagrati, tel. +30 210 7566008) Paradiso The Paradiso restaurant is a wine heaven. Owner Grigorios Mihailos AIWS, with a Diploma from England’s WSEΤ and a prof of the Wine and Spirits Professional Consultants school, offers a very original wine list setup. Wines are classified in 12 discrete categories, such as wines from volcanic soils, natural wines or wines from high altitudes. The goal is to renew the labels every month, as well as to apply a value for money pricing. The menu is inspired by the Italian cuisine and includes dishes showcasing the exquisite ingredients. Every month you can try the wines of a different featured producer, learn about the wine-food harmony or even bring your own bottle from home, in one of the special BYOΒ nights. (58 Apostolopoulou St., Kato Halandri, tel. +30 210 6722290) Asador The Asador is a meat and wine bar restaurant and, as stated, offers delicious meat dishes in a modern, stylish environment. The menu includes skilfully grilled fresh domestic and Italian “unusual” meat, culinary games of taste and a few pasta options. The “package” is completed through the impressive wine cabinet, with a glass facade, preserving excellent selections from the Greek and global vineyard. Many wines are also served in glass. The Asador combines knowledge and quality with personality and style, instantly appreciated by wine lovers. You can savour your food in this pleasant atmosphere with the cosmopolitan aura. But you can also enjoy your tapas at the wine bar, with a glass of good wine. (2Α Elpidos St., Agia Paraskevi, tel. +30 213 0049626)

Vinoterra

Whispers of Wine

Whispers of Wine The Whispers of Wine is a restaurant you always want to return to. Hospitable, warm and cosy. You feel the same comfort on a business lunch or at the company of friends for wine tasting. Panos, the owner, and his sommelier wife, Marina, will make sure you have a terrific time. The menu is renewed according to the season of the year. Of course, the dishes are accompanied by fabulous wine suggestions. The restaurant’s cellar is always full of beautiful wine ideas. (48 Agiou Konstantinou St., Marousi, tel. +30 210 6179051) Vinoterra Resto & Cava A modern and spartan restaurant, right next to Cava Vinoterra, emphasizing on wine. The big bar is a great place for a glass of wine with an assortment of cheese. At the end of the room, the big blackboard features the daily specials. The menu follows secret Mediterranean paths, with the sommelier always eager to assist you with the selection of the suitable wine for your food. All bottles are offered at the price of the Cava, with a charge of 10€ per bottle. The Cava hosts more than 1.000 wine labels, 50 of which are also available as a glass. (74 Marinou Antypa St., Neo Irαkleio, tel. +30 210 2792100) Petit Sommelier Wine lovers in the southern suburbs feel at home at the Petit Sommelier, a restaurant fully living up to the expectations of a wine restaurant. The sommeliers suggest the wine that will best suit your food, always explaining the wine’s characteristics. Offering many labels from all over the world, the restaurant also serves quite a few of them as a glass. (6 Zaimi St., P. Faliro, tel. +30 210 9842344)

Limnia Gi A white and a red Limnos P.D.O. wine with a Mediterranean heart and an international soul. Limnia Gi white What a beautiful wine! Ultraclean and bright, this Muscat of Alexandria shows lovely varietal flavours of citrus fruits in a floral background. Dry and refreshing would be perfect with spicy dishes, grilled seafood, chicken, cheese and fruits. Limnia Gi red A brand new label, Limnia Gi red is made from Kalabaki or Limnio grape, an ancient variety indigenous to the island of Limnos. Delicious with a pleasant dark berries and plums finish that goes on and on. Drink with pasta, grilled meats and game dishes.

DOMAINE CHATZIGEORGIOY Karpasi, Lemnos tel. + 30 22540 31082 www.chatzigeorgioulimnos.gr

FOOD

Eating in Thessaloniki

Eating in Thessaloniki by Evi Kallini

Summer is here! The restaurants are putting their tables and chairs out on the pavements and walkways. Every corner of the city is full of delightful gastronomic surprises.

Restaurants Alfredo’s Garden Οpen air restaurant in the lush gardens of the Regency Casino. The summer location of Alfredo’s, one of the best restaurants in Thessaloniki. A menu of Mediterranean dishes, with a pronounced Italian and Greek influence is served in an idyllic setting with an orchestra to entertain diners. (12th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 491199) Amvrosia Sunny, spacious, comfortably casual, this is the restaurant of the Hyatt Regency Hotel. Chef Kostas Ambatzis features modern Greek cuisine. Classic dishes creatively enhanced. Extensive wine list. (13th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 401234) Clochard Stylish dining in an atmospheric setting. Classic venue for lovers of good food. Award-winning Greek cuisine with some beautifully prepared international dishes. (4 Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 239805) Fred & Ginger The restaurant of the Lazaristes Hotel, which has won over bon viveurs with its beautiful design, cosmopolitan atmosphere and gourmet cuisine! (16 Kolokotroni St., Stavroupoli, tel. +30 2310 647444) Akadimia Elegantly decorated and with a friendly atmosphere, the tiny restaurant serves Mediterranean and Greek cuisine lovingly prepared by the owner and chef. All at poor man’s prices! (3 Agiou Mina St., tel. + 30 2310 521803)

Ayioli Café-bar-restaurant with a trendy environment and the best balcony on the old waterfront. Menu featuring imaginative blends of Mediterranean ingredients. (15 Nikis Av., tel. +30 2310 262888) Skoufos Appealing, youthful restaurant championing the return to simple flavours. The menu, with a distinct leaning to seafood, is designed to appeal to lovers of fresh food. (140 Konstantinoupoleos St., tel. +30 23130 02207) Ta Nisia [The islands] Mediterranean cuisine, with the focus mainly on fish; a rich menu of more than 150 different types of seafood dish, including starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses. (13 Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 285991) Restaurant Lounge Bar Β The restaurant is located inside the Museum of Byzantine Culture. With its beautifully designed atrium, full of greenery, it offers a breath of fresh air in summer months and a superb Mediterranean menu. (2 C’ Septembriou St., tel. +30 2310 869695) Mare e Monti Authentic Italian trattoria famed for its high-quality ingredients and genuine Italian dishes. (13 Venizelou St., Panorama, tel. +30 2310 343344)

Ristorante Da Vinci Tastefully designed restaurant at the Nikopolis Hotel, with a menu featuring sophisticated Italian cuisine. The gastronomic quality one would expect from one of the Leading Hotels of the World. (16-18 Asklipiou St., Pylaia, tel. +30 2310 401000) Ouzeri & Fish Tavernas Yenti Ouzeri with rembetiko music, in the shadow of the old Yenti Koule prison and castle. Serves a wide range of meat and seafood dishes. (13 Ioannou Papareska St., Yedi Kule, tel. +30 2310 246495) Frutti di Mare The restaurant has tables out on the pavement all year round, with a view of the Bazaar Hamam. Enjoy your wine with delicious seafood and meat mezedes. (20 Komninon St., tel. +30 2310 239100) Yialos Classic fish and mezedes taverna, enjoying superb location on the waterfront at Kalamaria. Ouzo or wine accompanied by delicious mezedes and a unique view of the sea. (Ν. Plastira St., Mikro Emvolo, Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 442121) H taverna stin Platia Skra [Skra Sq. Taverna] Taverna with superb fresh fish, seafood and delicious mezedes. Every aspect of the venue contributes to a warm and friendly ambiance. (Skra Sq., Kalamaria, tel. + 30 2310 435335) 7thalasses [7 seas] The post-modern fish taverna par excellence! You will imagine you are on Mykonos! Friendly staff, good atmosphere, fresh fish, shellfish, seafood and well-informed wine list. (10 Kalapothaki St., tel. +30 2310 233173) Hamodrakas Well-known Nea Krini fish taverna, founded in 1926. Specializing in seafood, the business has been handed down from father to son in the Gofas family. (13 Μ. Gagyli St., Aretsou waterfront, tel. +30 2310 447943)

Akadimia restaurant

In the heart of Thessaloniki centre, Akadimia restaurant invites you to experience its tastefull Mediterranean cuisine. Akadimia is a very charming, cosy restaurant at atmospheric Ag. Mina Street. The smart and cool decor captures your eyes, the music caresses your ears and the tasteful dishes your palate. Entering the summer mood, the menu takes full advantage of fresh vegetables and herbs to produce a repertoire with a classical base that has many resonances of modern cooking. A variety of starters, a good range of fresh fish, traditional seafood and meat dishes are prepared in a variety of styles. The wine list is perfectly suited to style of the restaurant. Least but not less, Akadimia is a particularly value-for-money restaurant.

Mavri Thalassa [Black Sea] Very popular fish taverna, along the lines of the classic tavernas in Nea Krini, but at the opposite end of the city. Menu features fresh fish, shellfish and other seafood dishes. (63 A. Thrakis St., Κ. Toumba, tel. +30 2310 932542) O Tassos One of the city’s top fish tavernas, famous for its high-quality cuisine and exceptional service. The fish soup is not to be missed. (8 Phaethonos St., Nea Krini, tel. +30 2310 430523)

3, Agiou Mina St. Thessaloniki Tel. + 30 2310 521803

FOOD

Eating in Thessaloniki

Café-bar-restaurant Shark This waterside bar-restaurant offers the best views of the sunset to be had anywhere in the city. A popular venue with an interesting menu featuring classic and international dishes. Excellent wine selection. (2 Argonafton St. & T. Sofouli St., tel. +30 2310 416855-6)

Mediterranean ingredients and techniques, and new dishes are added regularly. (2-4 Frangon St. and O. Diamanti St, tel. +30 2310 532503)

Tre Marie Chain of café-bar-restaurants reminiscent of elegant Milanese bistros and food halls in European capitals. Idyllic atmosphere and Italian cuisine for the sophisticated palate(13 P. P. Germanou St., tel. +30 2310 240051, 57 T. Sofouli St., Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 403655, 13 Venizelou St., Panorama, tel. +30 2310 343344, Pylaia, tel. + 30 2310 302323) Bistrot Elegant environment and high-quality cuisine at the restaurant of the Excelsior Hotel. Creativity and tradition blended in a range of Mediterranean dishes. (10 Komninon St. & 23 Mitropoleos St., tel. +30 2310 021020) .ES Café-bar-restaurant with fresh and relaxed atmosphere, right by the floodlit Byzantine walls of the city. The menu leans heavily to

Banquet All day bar-restaurant with very positive vibes. The Serbian chef specializes mainly in creative Mediterranean cuisine, while the bartender holds the World Class Bartender Award for 2009. (7 D. Gounari St., tel. +30 2310 228520) Coq au zen Delightful French bistro, a gastronomic oasis amidst the bustle of the Valaoritou neighbourhood, offering a small but carefully fashioned menu. (37 Valaoritou St., Thessaloniki, tel. +30 2310 520119) Kitchen Bar All day dining, coffee and drinks at a beautiful warehouse in the port with a splendid view to the city. (Warehouse II, Port of Thessaloniki, tel. +30 2310-502241) Zythos - Doré Well-known haunt of artists and intellectuals. The courtyard offers refreshing shade and a view of the White Tower, while the cuisine prepares a range of Mediterranean flavours, same with Zythos in Ladadika. (7 Tsiroyianni St., tel. +30 2310 279010)

Yenti This year Thessaloniki celebrates 100 years since its liberation from the Ottoman empire. Along with the city, ouzeri YENTI celebrates 20 years of serving tasteful homemade meze and cooked dishes. An ouzeri with rembetiko live music, YENTI is settled in the shadow of the old Yenti Koule prison and castle far away from the city centre noise and crowds. Regarding taste… Our dishes are made of Greek, traditional and fresh ingredients. We suggest you taste our specialties: traditional clay-baked meats, stew and oven dishes, spit-roasted meats and game, when in season. In addition, we should not forget to mention about the offered fish. No matter if they are big or small, if they have a shell or not, their taste is extravagant. Moreover, the cheese comes from the finest parts of Greece: Crete, Metsovo, Chalkidiki, and Cyprus. For desert a lot of Greek traditional surprises will be served: karidopita, semolina halvas and baked quince are all handmade pastry of fresh wholesome ingredients. The wine list is extensive and well-composed. YENTI offers good fare served in a pleasant ambiance at reasonable prices, with excellent, Greek lively music to complete the evening. 13 Ioannou Papareska St. Yedi Kule Thessaloniki tel. +30 2310 246495

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Halkidiki: best of…

Halkidiki: best of… by Melina Melikidou, Maria Netsika

Summertime. Friday afternoon at the edge of Thessaloniki, the east one. All roads lead to Halkidiki! So far, everyone agrees. Then, half an hour down the road, under the Moudania bridge, some part their ways. Families and summer house owners continue to friendly Kassandra. Happy campers and more alternative tourists turn left, to Sithonia. And those in need of more quietness have already set their course to Ouranoupoli and Amouliani, via the mountainous road. They all have one thing in common: Halkidiki satisfies all likes. Melina Melikidou and Maria Netsika combine their information, show their cards and exchange notes to suggest routes and destinations. This is the hit list of Halkidiki’s hot spots!

Fall in! On your way to Neos Marmaras, you will encounter some of the best beaches of the second “leg” (as locals affectionately call the three peninsulae of Halkidiki): Agios Georgios, Kalogria, Spathies, Lagomandra and Elia. Secret Paradise With everything being written about it, paradise doors will not remain hidden for much longer. That is why you should hurry up and enjoy the beauties of one of the best beaches of Halkidiki in Tristinika (Sithonia). A “sculpted” beach Woods populated by oak trees, pines, cypresses, plane trees and rocks diving into the Aegean. At Platanitsi, five kilometres down the road from Sarti, the majestic landscape of Sithonia become softer thanks to the sculpting games of nature on rocks. Deep blue Lots of people see it, but very few actually visit the immense beach next to Sani (Kassandra). Follow the dirt road after the parking lot of the hill and enjoy the deafening silence of the sea, along with crystal clear waters, filled with octopus and yummy hard clams. Stop please! A pilgrimage to Miltiadis in Agios Prodromos (on your way to the second leg) for souvlaki made of local meat, is considered a must. You will find it if you search for dozens of haphazardly parked cars in his backyard. (tel. + 30 2371 96079) Timeless and classy The Eagles Palace hotel in Ouranoupolis. Its architecture includes elements from mountainous Halkidiki, Mount Athos and the wider

Macedonia area. The main building is covered by very old ivies, while its bungalows reach the edge of the sea. The luxury resort opened for business 39 years ago, at the tranquil environment of Ouranoupolis. The people behind the resort, restless and very active as they are, with ecologic and culinary concerns, never cease to surprise us with their original ideas. For the 2012 season, they have prepared a very interesting schedule of alternative activities combining fun with learning and relaxation with creativity. (tel. + 30 23770 31047-8, www.eaglespalace.gr) The chic, gourmet and cultural resort Sani Beach Resort. Bordering the green of the forest and the turquoise of the sea, the resort at the first leg of Halkidiki is famous not only for its beautiful environment and the cosmopolitan aura that surrounds it, but also for the Sani festival –bringing well known music stars to Sani hill every year– and Sani Gourmet –the annual culinary festival. The resort’s dine around routes offer many and varying propositions in bars and restaurants, including the gourmet Water Restaurant, Sea you up and Ntomata, as well as the Psaroyiannos ouzo-taverna. (www.sani-resort.com) An ideal guest house Porto Valitsa overviews the Aegean Sea from the top of a rock, at the edge of Kassandra. Eight picturesque rooms, a restaurant and a bar. I adore it, because it reminds me of my childhood summers, and also because I can spend hours and hours on my own, just staring at its wide open horizon. (tel. + 30 23740 92007, www.portovalitsa.gr) The luxury monastery The Danai Beach Resort in Sithonia. An all suite hotel offering tranquillity, meticulous style and class in its decoration, personal service and high gastronomy. The resort’s pride is the award-winning Squirrel restaurant and the very chic Danai spa. (tel. + 30 23750 22310)

Halkidiki: best of…

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The best fish restaurants Kritikos fish taverna, in Ouranoupolis, serves culinary masterpieces from the Aegean. The menu includes sea fennels, pinna stew and fish soups, along with seafood crepes, paelia, caprice shrimps, tasty lobster spaghetti and, of course, any fish you like. Raw materials are procured from the family’s own fishing boat. Yianni, the owner, creates the recipes and his mother cooks. (Ouranoupolis, tel. + 30 23770 71222) Marina Below the bridge and next to the boat-yard in the little harbour of Potidea you will find the simple luxury of Marina, a fish restaurant serving exquisite seafood creations. With its nautical décor you’ll be forgiven for thinking that you are aboard a yacht. (Potidea, tel. +30 23730 41570) Trizoni A beautiful yard and high-quality cuisine at this stylish fish restaurant. Creativity and tradition blended in a range of starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses. (Kriopigi, tel. +30 23740 51945) The top restaurant Marigoula Tiny dinning room, beautiful yard and dishes based on Greek gastronomic traditions enhanced by the resourceful talents of energetic owner. Wide variety of excellent Greek wines. (Poligiros, tel. +30 23710 23171) Wine is fun Try the wines of Halkidiki. Whites, roses and reds from Mount Athos,

the slopes of Meliton and the central part of the peninsula. Personal favorites: Ampelonas Agiou Pavlou (St Paul Vineyards) and Metohi X by Tsantalis, along with Melissanthi by Domaine Porto Carras. Taking a trip to the mountains Discover mountainous Halkidiki going around its... legs! A majestic route through the green forest is the one going through the Kassandra “mainland”. The paved road can be found if you follow the signs to “Skioni”, just before Pefkohori. Another option is to follow the road leading from Paleohori to Megali Panagia, to Gomati and finally to Ierissos. You will drive through orgasmic flora and mild ravines and you will pass from villages with genuine traditional character. If you enjoy small and cosy beaches, you will love the tiny Develiki village and the stony Pirgos beach. At the end of the same road, you will find Ouranoupolis, your last stop before entering Agio Oros (Mount Athos). A village like a doll-house Parthenonas, a mountainous village overlooking Neos Marmaras. With an unobstructed view of the Toroneos Gulf, the village has refurbished houses made of stone, and guest houses such as the two-storey Olga’s house, Parthenonas is the ideal spot for those preferring the healthy climate and the quiet of the mountain. Caravan house on the shore The Kalamitsi camping aspires to monopolize, this year as well, the interest of camping aficionados. This unique thematic camping in Halkidiki organizes a series of events and activities addressed to all age groups.

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This summer vacations hot spots

Reviewed by: Evi Kallini, Denni Kallivoka, Melina Melikidou, Kostis Zafirakis

This summer, set course to the Greek islands, using the Wine Plus magazine as your guide. Where to eat, what to buy and what you must see – everything in these pages!

Hand-made sandals by local craftsmanship at Theologos, in Thassos, is the ultimate must! Alonissos is famous for its fresh fish and oysters. At Steni Vala, you will savour them in a tranquil environment, at very reasonable prices! In probably the most aroma-filled island in the world, Chios, your nose is attacked, at any given moment, by tangerines, mastic trees and jasmine. Medieval legends, a prosperous economic past, pirate stories and a mouthwatering cuisine blend together eternally. At the Vinius wine gallery you will find both local and imported wines to accompany your dinner. (www.vinius.gr) When at the Hivadolimni beach, in Mylos, search for the ouzo-taverna on the side street. You will be rewarded with exquisite fish and a delicious version of the cretan dakos: grilled bread served with feta cheese, tomato, eggplant and garlic! Also in Mylos, at the small tavernas of Agia Kiriaki, you will be taken aback by a gastronomic surprise: lamb and other local meet are cooked on hot stones, under the sand! Mr. Metaxas Halaris grows mini tomatoes, white eggplants, zucchini and maintains his own pig farm while his wife, Ms. Irini, cooks delicious zucchini and cheese pies, pork with lemon sauce in the oven and crusty ‘papoutsakia’ with minced meat. Their Paradise is one of the best tavernas in Santorini. (Baxedes, Oia, Santorini, tel. + 30 22860 71583) To eat very fresh and very well cooked fish, go to Captain Nikola’s taverna on the north Koufonisi. Go by the taverna in the morning, order your fish and eat it at night! (tel. + 30 22850 71690) In south Koufonisi you will eat an excellent bouillabaisse and an amazing

lamb from Keros at the taverna of Yianis Venetsanos. You can go there with the small boat departing daily from north Koufonisi. (tel. + 30 22850 74074) The absolute spot for your night cap in off-the-beaten-track Folegandros is the Laoumi music bar. You will find it at the far end of the main town by following the sounds of rock music. Its bar is outside the building, on the sidewalk of the street! (tel. + 30 6974 677149) The best breakfast, with a splendid view and music by Hajidakis, is served at the all day bar-restaurant Archipelagos, at the main port of Astipalea. Also try their sweets. Astipalea has an exquisite main port, or Hora, and it is really worth staying there and not in a remote village. The traditional studios owned by the athenian Yiannis Mariakis, with special attention to detail, is probably the best choice. If you are lucky, you can reserve the best one, which is right under the Castle! (tel. + 30 22430 61413) The best lobster spaghetti is served in Sifnos, at Captain Andreas’ taverna, right in the island’s port. The taverna serves fresh fish and a variety of cooked meals, in extra large portions! It is the favourite place of former prime minister Kostas Simitis and this tells the whole story. (tel. + 30 22840 32356) A must see in Sifnos is the Hrisopigi monastery built in 1650. Built on the top of a sliced rock, with the immense Aegean blue as its background, the bright white building excellently expresses the simplicity and the endlessness of the Cycladic beauty. If you have trouble climbing the rock, you can swim at the picturesque Apokoftos bay right next to the monastery. A different proposition, for those admiring nature, are the birdwatching excursions organized in Andros.

Paros is famous for its bustling beach bars but well aware travellers know better than that! One of the hidden treasures of the island is the traditional central square of the mountainous village Lefkes, with a captivating view and tranquillity. This is an ideal place to enjoy your coffee, away from hundreds of decibels! Tinos has a total of 45 picturesque villages up in the mountains. They are reason enough for you to select this island for your holidays. When in Pirgos, visit the house of famous sculptor Yiannoulis Halepas and the marble sculpting ateliers. Finally, don’t miss the unique Volax valley, a moon-like scenery with its huge strangely shaped rocks – one of the rarest phenomena in the world! Your dream stay in Syros is offered by Xenon Apollonos, a small, traditional guest house at the Vaporia neighbourhood. Three rooms in differing styles, with a unique view on the Aegean sea, common spaces with much attention to the detail and home-made breakfast. (tel. + 30 22810 81387) An old matches warehouse was transformed into a modern restaurant with industrial design at Lazareta in Syros. The Old Monopoly will treat you to exquisite traditional and international dishes, with a unique view to the port of Syros. (tel. + 30 22810 86829) A short walk at the market of Ermoupolis, the capital of Syros, will bring you valuable culinary prizes! Buy the island’s famous cheese at Korre’s (not to be confused with the cosmetic’s brand!), halvadopites and delights. If your journey brings you to Lefkada, a trip to the village Eglouvi will reward you with its delicious and famous lentils. Save them for the next winter. You will remember your summer vacations on every spoonful! In Cephalonia, your first stop should be the natural pools at the Alatia beach. You know the drill: swim, dry up and swim again. Once you feel hungry, go to the Alaties taverna. Order its marvelous pies from Epirus and delicious cooked dishes. Stay late. The sunset will be worth your while. (tel. +30 6977 584781) During the summer, we love going to picturesque, traditional tavernas with original tastes. One of them is in Kithira and the sign reads Idragogio (aqueduct). Not only will you be served very tasty local specialties, you will also find fresh fish and many imported beers. (tel. 27360 31065) Leaving Kithira, do not neglect to take with you a bouquet of sempreviva, the local flower that never dies! Hania are full of majestic beaches. But the view from Agia Rumeli beach, with its sand-hills, is trully breath-taking! You can land on that beach using a small boat or, if you are fit, on foot through the famous Samaria gorge! And when it is time for dessert, try Koukouvagia, near the Venizelos Cemetary. The view to the port of Hania at sunset is simply unique.

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Summer in Greece

Summer in Greece The editors of the Wine Plus magazine reveal their little secrets, those making their summers adorable!

The Kakoudia beach near Ierissos in Halkidiki â&#x20AC;&#x201C;a 300 km sandy beach where you need binoculars to see your neighbour. A place full of strange energy.

Free camping at Elafonissos beach: at the very edge of the land of Sparta, a never ending party among the sandy hills, the sounds, the colours and relaxed people. Probably the best beach in Greece.

The unique yellow house in Oia (Santorini), with a privileged view of the setting sun. Every afternoon we had visitors from all over the world.

The eastern side of Pelio hosts some of the best and better known beaches. They are all cool and magnificent. But they are also full of people. Except Banika beach. A hard to reach but eternally blue beach where you can land either with your 4X4 or by swimming from nearby Agioi Saranta. A fabulous, almost private, place.

Watermelon pie in Mylos. That summer I was bored to death, going around the island as one more dumb tourist. Not even the sea appealed to me... until I discovered the watermelon pie. It took me two and half days to come to my senses! Trekking in Alonissos. It took us 40 minutes to walk from Hora to Patitiri and we ate a few greeneries along the way. I remember Apostolis, our host in Damouhari at Pelio, for his never ending philosophical conversations. He introduced me to Fakistra: the sliding rock, the cool waters, the peace of mind (if you are lucky nowadays). Lowered blinds at noon, reading one more P.D. James novel in the half light. A trout in Agkistro (Serres), at the taverna of the local fish farm: fresh air and simple tastes without extravagance, right at the bank of the Strimonas river.

How I got to Lemnos for my summer vacations, me, a devoted worshiper of the Cyclades, is a long story. I assure you though; I enjoyed the quite, relaxed island, its wines, the cheeses and the abundant fresh fish. My motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stuffed tomatoes from her garden and the secret recipe for the filling. I bet that the greatest chefs in the world would give anything to get her advice. Viewing the Aegean from above, on a crystal clear day, flying to the Cyclades for my summer vacation. Feeling the sea the moment the sun sets and watching the beach without the hordes of its visitors.