Wine plus magazine No. 45 by Maria Netsika

SUMMER 2013

New wines of Greece Greek sparkling wines A rosĂŠ for the summer Nemea Bio wines

Summer gastro experiences The WP recipe collection Eating in Thessaloniki Eating in Athens Where to savour Greek cuisine

wp 45

THE WINE PLUS MAGAZINE

With that wonderful summer feeling I’m on my way to my vacations, with a suitcase full of dreams. My summer dream for this year begs for lots of swimming in small, tranquil bays; the sea a pale aqua marine colour, and the pines’ shadow a rare blessing. My summer dream is in need of sunsets, taken right off the Great Gatsby’s gold dust sprinkled pages. Oboes, trombones and saxophones, along with violas, flutes and percussion instruments, filling the air with jazz melodies. Tanned bodies covered in flimsy fabrics nonchalantly touching the bar. Slowly moving, touching each other. The summer night is coming up fast. The best hour for the unbearable lightness of an infatuating drink. My summer dream asks for dinners with light, like a good dream, dishes and exquisite wines. My summer dream is full of happy chats, laughter spilling profusely all over. And in the small hours, when the moonlight sheds its magical ladder on our feet, always ending up to the single question haunting our few careless hours: what does it really feel like to live poetically? Dear readers, in this summer issue of the Wine Plus magazine, we have tried to include our suggestions to build your own treasure of Greek moments. Aromatic moments, when tasting domestic sparkling and rosé wines. Tasty moments, when savouring local wines and specialties, to help you brighten up your warm days and cool nights. Cool moments, simply by following our itinerary in the Nemea vineyards, gazing at the immense Aegean blue, discovering the Greek countryside. Good reads! And a great summer! Maria Netsika

Contents

Heard it through the grapevine Wines in Vogue!

2013 Wine tasting safari in Greece

Nemea Are you ready to give into this very Greek taste of Agiorgitiko?

Greek sparkling wines Let the bubbles enchant you!

No 45 SUMMER 2013 Free press

Eating in Athens: Mediterranean & Greek Cuisine

Bio wines

Maria Netsika explores the exciting potential of well-known and unusual Greek wines.

WINE PLUS magazine

The unbearable delight of Greek sausages

New wines of Greece Konstantinos Lazarakis MW explains why New Wines of Greece provide an exciting and

exceptional option for those willing to explore beyond the commonplace.

Summer gastro experiences in Greece A hot list of thegastronomic-mustswhile-travelling.

A rosé for the summer Let’s put colour in our lives! So, let us introduce you to the Greek rosé wines.

A Food & Wine Experience We propose you recipes, picked from our collection from classic Greek to creative cuisine delicacies.

Where to savour Greek cuisine Here are the culinary propositions not to be missed when travelling all over Greece, north to south and east to west.

Eating in Thessaloniki: Mediterranean & Greek Cuisine Restaurants, fish-tavernas and ouzeri… a town circuit.

Publisher WINE PLUS M. NETSIKA & SIA E.E. 5 Kariotaki St, 546 45 Thessaloniki Τ: +30 2310 888311 F: +30 2310 888312 e-mail: info@wineplus.gr www.wineplus.gr

Editor Maria Netsika

Translation Sakis Kazakis

Design Red Fish

Contributing Editors FT Bletsas, Denny Kalivoka, Evi Kallini, Evi Karkiti, Melina Melikidou, Niki Mitarea, Kostis Zafirakis

Photos Heinz Troll

Print Beyond S.A.

W W W. A L P H A- E S TAT E . C O M

MALAGOUZIA ALPHA ESTATE

SAUVIGNON BLANC ALPHA ESTATE

SYRAH MERLOT XINOMAVRO ALPHA ESTATE

XINOMAVRO RESERVE OLD VINES ALPHA ESTATE

Robert Parker: 90pts Jancis Robinson: 16,5pts

Robert Parker: 91pts Jancis Robinson: 17pts

Robert Parker: 92pts Jancis Robinson: 17,5+pts

Robert Parker: 93pts Jancis Robinson: 17,5+pts

Heard it through the grapevine

Assyrtiko

Malagousia

Santorini’s terroir is unique in the world, shaped by the volcano of Thera, the caldera and, of course, the Aegean Sea. Although the island is host to a number of indigenous grape varietals, the Assyrtiko reigns supreme. Wines made with Assyrtiko are blessed with good structure, fresh and crisp acidity, high levels of alcohol and intense minerality.

Intense, complex and idiosyncratic aromatic profile, with ripe peaches and apricots, coupled with hints of fresh green pepper. Malagousia is an outstanding white Greek grape variety. A flattery to the palate, slowly acquiring the attributes of an international wine. Photo: Malagousia, Arvanitidis Estate

Photo: Assyrtiko, Santo Wines

Assyrtiko + Malagousia blend

Greek and cosmopolitan varietals blends Greek producers have embraced the art of blending indigenous with cosmopolitan grape varietals. They are expanding their portfolio in many thrilling ways by making wines that only add to excitement.

In this blend are all the minerals and lemon of Assyrtiko with real raciness and the fresh, pungency of fine Malagousia. These wines are refreshing enough to enjoy without food but you’d love to try them with shellfish, even oysters.

Photo: Mirkos Vorias Trio, Oinoforos (Lagorthi, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc)

Photo: Domaine Gerovassiliou, white

Moschofilero

Sparkling wines

Mantinia in Peloponnese is an appellation dedicated to the exotic Moschofilero, a pink-skinned variety principally used to make white wine. An elegant wine that overwhelms with its freshness and flowery aromas, a wine that travels you to delightful gustatory destinations.

Mantinia, Amyndeon in NorthWest Macedonia and Zitsa in Epirus are three of the very few Greek regions that can claim a tradition in sparkling or semi sparkling wines. Most of these sparkling wines are made according to the Charmat method, showing more of the varietal typicity. (p. 12)

Photo: Moschofilero, Boutari

Photo: Odi Panos, Domaine Spiropoulos

Every day wines

Greek rosé wines

The quality increase in Greek wine production has leaded towards a wine industry producing goodto high-quality wines in all price segments. Greek producers also focus on entry-level price wines, though with overall high quality.

The sea food-, legume- and oilbased summer cuisine of Greece seems to have a real affinity for the country’s rosés. Whether testing an aioli (the great garlicky dipping sauce) or pan-seared scallops, rosé wines will be an ideal match. (p. 14)

Photo: Akres, Skouras

Photo: Makedonikos rosé, Tsantali

Gold Medal - Concours Mondial des Bruxelles, Bruxelles 2004

Gold Medal - Mundus vini, Neustadt 2008

Gold Medal and Special Prize: Best dry white wine of Europe,

Gold Medal - International Wine Challenge, London 2009

Mundus vini, Neustadt 2004

Gold Medal - Decanter 2009

Gold Medal - Mundus vini, Neustadt 2005

Gold Medal - Concours Mondial Bruxelles, Bruxelles 2010

International & Regional Trophy - Decanter 2006

Gold Medal - Decanter 2010

Gold Medal - Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Bruxelles 2006

Gold Medal - Decanter 2011

Gold Medal - Mundus vini, Neustadt 2006

Gold Medal - Decanter 2013

Regional Trophy - Decanter 2008

Citadelles dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;or - Les Citadelles du vin, Bordeaux 2013

KTIMA BIBLIA CHORA ww w.bibli achor a.gr

Heard it through the grapevine

Xinomavro

Xinomavro blends

The wines produced from Xinomavro are popular in Greece; devotees praise the wines’ rich fruit, tasty acidity and untamed tannins, which age beautifully, arguably they are the most age-worthy Greek dry reds. Greek Xinomavro offers a unique alternative to Pinot Noir.

High-altitude vineyards are promising for the production of red wines, and the mountain plateau of Amyndeon, in western Macedonia, produces some of the country’s most serious, seductive wines. Distinctive examples of blended wines are produced in Amyndeon, too. The most exciting come from blending Xinomavro with Syrah and/or Merlot. Photo: Alpha Estate (Xinomavro, Syrah, Merlot)

Photo: Ramnista, Kir-Yianni

Agiorgitiko

Bio wines

There’s no disrespect to say that Agiorgitiko is fun to drink. It is, for the soft, charmingly interesting mouthfeel and rich, sweetly forward blackberry, cherry, cassis and oak flavours. The whole Nemea appellation is planted with this red, grape variety. (p. 18)

Most wine-producing regions in Greece display a relatively trouble-free ecosystem, so organic cultivation is the obvious choice. The vineyards that practice organic viticulture cover an area of nearly 3.688 ha. Wines produced from organically grown grapes are another important facet of Greek wines. (p. 20)

Photo: Gaia Estate

Photo: Areti red, Vivlia Chora Estate

Crete

Ouzo

Crete, the largest and most important Greek island in terms of viticulture, is home to approximately 15% of the nation’s vineyards. Several winemakers have been trying to resurrect almost extinct local grapes, like Dafni or Plyto, making absolutely stunning wines.

The Greek eau de vie never is served alone. It is always accompanied by mezedes (small plates): olives, pickled vegetables, salted anchovy and fried small fish. Photo: Ouzo Babatzim

Photo: Kotsifali, Lyrarakis Wines

Map of Flavours 2013 7-8 December Warehouse C, Thessaloniki Port Map of Flavours (Hartis ton Gefseon) an important wine and spirits fair, is held annually at Thessaloniki, organized by Wine Plus. Two days to stroll through the rows of wineries and sample great wine from great winemakers. Don’t miss the best wine experience in Thessaloniki! www.wineplus.gr

Wine Tourism in Greece

Map of Flavours

An excellent starting point is the Wine Roads initiatives found in many regions. These take the visitor to breathtaking destinations, where modern or longestablished wineries are located. Photo: Samos Wine Museum

Map of Flavours The best wine experience in Thessaloniki

Warehouse C, Thessaloniki Port

7-8 December 2013

Organised by:

Τ: +30 2310 888.311 info@wineplus.gr

www.wineplus.gr

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New Wines of Greece | Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

New Wines of Greece Unique Proposal by Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

The text has been created within the framework of «New Wines of Greece» EDOAO - OPE Promotion Campaign financed with ad from European Union and Greece

There are several reasons that fine Greek wine has emerged on the global wine scene in the past fifteen years and not before. The modern wine consumer is nowadays more receptive to the message conveyed by Greek wine. It is not just a matter of quality of these wines, but a matter of dynamics, trends, balances and imbalances throughout the global wine market. Greece is now able to offer unique and far more competitive wines, which makes more sense in today’s marketplace. The rise in quality, the improving standards of production and accumulated know-how are just half of the story of Modern Greek wine. Actually, this half is not all that exceptional. Over the last two decades, numerous countries or new regions in established wine-producing countries can produce an impressive track record of wine improvement. There are no more secrets to hide in the cellar or in the vineyard, since oenological knowledge is freely available through universities, research centres and even private companies: there are no “bags of tricks” around these days, only top winemakers and viticulturalists with an

international view of their trade. Top research executives admit that “there is no way of keeping knowledge away from competitors. All you can hope to do is speed up the process of applying this knowledge and get faster results.” Freely available knowledge suggests that good quality no longer suffices. In the ’80s and, to a certain degree, the ’90s, quality was frequently perceived as the lack of winemaking faults. If the wine wasn’t oxidised, volatile, unripe or over-ripe, it was just about right. The

New Wines of Greece | Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

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current standards go far beyond this school of thought and customer expectations are higher than ever. The term “good” has been redefined through modern winemaking practices and, in essence, is now taken for granted. A wine must be “very good”, “fine” or “excellent” to deserve a mention or secure a bright future. Nevertheless, this does not signal a rise in prices; quite the contrary, in fact. For a specific level of wine quality –if such a level can be specific– prices have been going steadily down for a number of years. With the exception of some icon wines commanding sky-high prices, the present wine market is the wine lover’s haven. Great wines can be enjoyed at affordable prices, provided that consumers are open-minded and willing to try wines off the beaten path. The wide availability of technology and know-how may have pushed average quality higher than ever before, but, at the same time, they have increased uniformity across the spectrum of styles. Key wine personalities are commenting on the growing internationalisation of wines and the degree of homogeneity. The shelves of retail shops and wine lists may offer a wide selection of provenance, but when wines are judged by what is in the glass, sameness prevails. The most illustrative point is the predominance of a small number of varietals. International, mainly French varieties and varietally labelled wines completely changed the face of wine-selling in the ’80’s and ’90s, but a great deal of stagnation has become evident since then.

Journalists and top sommeliers were swift to spot this development and came forward asking for fresh proposals, new varieties or new wine-producing regions. It remains to be seen if the average wine consumer ― the person that actually supports the whole production of wine ― will be seduced by new grapes and go beyond the Chardonnays and the Cabernets of the world. This is why key off-trade buyers are comparatively reluctant to accept obscure suggestions. However, a fact less understood is the shoehorning of the personality of minor varieties or unknown regions in the styles championed by famous grapes. Nebbiolo arguably became better known when some modern Nebbiolos turned into Cabernet Sauvignon look-alikes. The point is not buying a different grape variety, but being able to taste the difference in the glass. Greece has a fantastic arsenal of indigenous varieties with which to compete in the current marketplace. Most of them are full of distinctive, unconventional character. Oenological practices tend to highlight rather than mute these qualities and they do so for very precise reasons. As far as wine consumption is concerned, Greece is a very mature market. Wine was not imposed on Greeks as a marketing initiative. Greeks are very set in their ways. They consume wine on certain occasions and enjoy specific styles: flavourful, though refreshing, and light. Greek wine producers, largely reliant on their national market, have to make wines

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New Wines of Greece | Konstantinos Lazarakis MW

that fit this image. This individuality might have seemed out of place in the global context of past decades. Nevertheless, it is becoming more apparent that the international scene might be willing to take a closer look at Greek wine and the concepts behind it.

comprehend, if possible. Given the viticulturalist’s once-a-year chance to work with a vineyard, a single terroir then requires commitment over generations and centuries. The second prerequisite is smallscale production patterns. Since soil and meso-climate are important constituents of what is understood as terroir, then large operations are bound to focus on what is common, rather than on what can make a restricted plot special. Greeks fulfil both requirements. Greek wine production has always been on a human, artisanal scale, by people “conversing with their land”. Furthermore, they have been cultivating their vineyards long enough to fully grasp the potential of their terroirs. Terroir wines, the Holy Grail of many, are what come naturally to Greece.

A very telling point is alcohol level. Alcohol is a soft element of a wine’s structure and an elevated level, 13.5% abv and above, creates a round feeling on the palate. High alcohol wines, 14% and above, are instantly easier to appreciate, but seem heavier after a glass or two. Alcohol levels are rising by the vintage in most regions around the world, even in traditional areas like Bordeaux, where 14% is nowadays common. The tendency seems global (and it is market-driven and has nothing to do with global warming), but it has often been criticised by some leading wine experts. A wine must not dull the senses but invite the drinker to enjoy a second glass. Some low alcohol-content wines, reaching 10% or lower, have been “custom-made” as a response, but they usually offer less enjoyment than a fruit juice. Food-friendliness, a moderate level of alcohol and sheer drinkability are becoming of paramount importance and this is exactly what Greeks have been expecting from a decent glass of wine for centuries. Another interesting example of the way the Greek wine-producing culture has become more relevant on an international level is the current “hunt for terroir”. The future commercial potential of varietal wines is limited and many wine-producing countries are placing their bets on proving they can make “terroir” wines – wines coming from somewhere and could not be from anywhere.. A grape variety can be planted all over the world, but a wine conveying a “sense of place” is, by definition, immobile and unique. Although the very notion of terroir is much disputed by many authorities around the world, there are two major prerequisites in producing true terroir wines instead of marketing-driven notions. The first is time. Terroir is a very complex equation, involving numerous parameters that demand time to

The profile of Greek wine suggests that it is highly unlikely it will make it big in the global wine market, but it can be an important tool for wine professionals. There is little chance that Greek wine brands will dominate sales in main export markets, selling millions of cases a year, even though they are some of the best value-for-money buys in the world market today. This is why, along with great quality and affordability, Greek wine is an inspirational, truly different proposal, based on actual, unique attributes. It is a superb tool for people, be they wine professionals or not, who feel offended by blandness and who understand the need for diversity. Greek wine was made to meet that need for a long, long time… Over the next twenty years, standing out in the world of wine will be far more important than being just good or very good. This necessity will permeate the whole global wine industry, from the vine grower to the oenologist, to the wine trader and down to the final consumer. The New Wines from Greece provide an exciting and exceptional option for those willing to explore beyond the commonplace. I suggest you do not miss out this opportunity.

Pavlidis Estate Pavlidis Estate Kokkinogia, 66100 Drama, Greece T: +30 25210 58300, F: +30 25210 58310 www.ktima-pavlidis.gr

Pavlidis Estate is situated in the region of Drama, in northern Greece, in a narrow valley surrounded amphitheatrically by three big mountains (Falakro, Menikio, Pangeo); in the middle of them, the Aegean Sea. This geographical modification provides our vineyards with a special microclimate, with cool winds during the night that prolong the ripening period and give the opportunity to berries to reach the optimum maturity level. It was founded by Christoforos Pavlidis in the late 90’s, after a long search for suitable sites for quality grape growing. Vineyards The vineyards were planted in the region of Drama, in the areas of Kokkinogia (meaning red earth) and Perichora, at altitudes of 280 to 450m respectively. The soils present a great diversity, covering a wide range between ‘terra rossa’ red clays at the lowest points to limestone soils and marls at the highest altitude. A terroir used from ancient times until today for vine cultivation, a temple dedicated to Dionysus, god of wine in ancient Greece and charred wine (pressing from 6500bC) was found close to the vineyards. Native and international grape varieties such as Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, Robola, Limniona and Syrah, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Sauvignon Blanc respectively are cultivated in the 65 hectares of privately-owned vineyards. Winery Pavlidis Estate is located in Kokkinogia of Drama. As you approach the winery, you will come in view of an imposing building due to its austere and minimal lines that you will also meet throughout touring the inside of the building.

Modern viticultural practices (like regulated deficit irrigation) and the installation of two meteorological stations ensure optimum berry ripening, while, the hand-picking of the grapes during the night and their conservation in refrigerated areas for some hours after the harvest, helps in preserving the aromatic and phenolic potential of the berries. A state-ofthe-art winemaking technology ensures a perfect extraction of the grapes’ aromatic and flavor virtues. Wines THEMA: a family of wines, including the white blend of Assyrtiko and Sauvignon Blanc (50% - 50%), the red blend of Agiorgitiko and Syrah (40% 60%) and a monovarietal rosé from Tempranillo grapes. There are also the mono-varietals wines of Assyrtiko, Chardonnay, Syrah and Tempranillo that belong to the family of EMPHASIS. The wines of Pavlidis Estate have won many prizes in the international wine competitions that have been held in France, England, Spain, Germany etc. and particularly two of the white wines, Thema white and Emphasis Assyrtiko, have been rated with 90 points in Wine Advocate.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Greek sparkling wines

A wine tasting safari in Greece 14

by Maria Netsika

Greek sparkling wines Let the bubbles enchant you

Humanity consumes a billion and a half bottles of sparkling wine every year. Champagne only accounts for 200 million of them! Therefore, we must be grateful to the French for inventing the absolute celebration drink, champagne, thus offering unforgettable wine-tasting experiences to the sworn friends of the sparkle. Sparkling wines, however, are also produced in other areas in France, such as the crémants de Bourgogne, the crémants d’Alsace, the sparkling Vouvrays from the Loire valley, and, obviously, in other countries. The most famous of them are the Italian Asti spumante, Franciacorta and Prosecco, the Spanish Cava, the German Sekt. Greece also produces some really compelling bubblies, the most shining examples being the Amyndeon (P.D.O.*) wines from Xinomavro. Also, grapes such as Moschofilero from the Mantinia plateau in the Peloponnese, Debina from Epirus and Muscat of Alexandria grown in the Greek islands, have proven to be ideal for the production of fine celebration sparkling wines. Especially during the summer, when the living is easy, it is the right time to buy a few bottles of sparkling wines and succumb to the charm of bubbles rushing to the surface of the thin, elegant flute. It is the right time to let go to the delicate smells of fruits, flowers, and dough tingling our nose. To the fine dry, sweet and sour taste hitting the palate amongst thousand small explosions. Eviva!

Sparkling wines on your table All sparkling wines are served well chilled. Depending on their age and the richness of their taste, they are served in temperatures between 6ºC and 10ºC. Therefore, make sure they have spent at least 4 hours in your fridge or, alternatively, at least 20 minutes in a champagne bowl filled with iced water. Sparkling wines are served in delicate and elegant flutes. Make sure they are meticulously clean because, as much as this sounds strange, the glass’ cleanness affects the ring on the top of the champagne. You should wash it with hot water without detergents. Sparkling wines should be consumed soon, if not immediately, after opening the bottle. If, however, you open a bottle and do not finish it, use a special tap –easily found in the market– to maintain it for a couple of days. Dry sparkling wines, contrary to the general belief, are good chaperons to food. Each mouthful, with its acidity and spume, “washes” the palette well and, for this reason, sparkling wines can be combined with several “difficult” to match ingredients, such as eggs, vinegar, olives, raw oysters and green vegetables. The key to combining bubbles with food is the lightness of the materials.

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Amalia Brut

Akakies sparkling

Moscato d’ Ifestia

Zibibbo Blink Brut

Floara di Munte

Tselepos Estate

Kir-Yianni Amyndeon P.D.O.

Domaine Chatzigeorgiou Lemnos

Blink Wines

Katogi – Strofilia

Made with the same process as Champagne, Tselepos Estate uses Moschofilero grapes for this Greek interpretation. A very dry, lively and zesty sparkling wine that has a lovely aroma profile of apple, peach, floral, mineral and citrus. A terrific holiday bubbly!

Kir-Yianni is famous for top quality Amyndeon P.D.O. rosé. But as long as they’ve been producing first class “Akakies still” they have made superb “Akakies sparkling” right along side. A soft and round rosé sparkling wine, with a gorgeous pink blush hue and a raspberry nose. Drink with pate, salmon and the love of your life.

This sparkling wine is proof that you don’t need big alcohol for big taste. Moscato d’ Ifestia weighs in at just 5% alcohol, and yet it has exquisite flavour. Ripe peaches and roses: the aromas intrigue us. Its code is medium sweet, but to me, there’s just a touch of sweetness, enough to soften it and give it a luxurious mouthfeel.

Blink wines, located in Pieria, Northern Greece, has great success with Greek and international grape varieties creating intense wines with distinct personality, such as this savoury sparkling Muscat of Alexandria (Zibibbo). I’d serve this as an aperitif but could imagine it going very happily with Asian and spicy dishes.

From Katogi-Averof celebrated estate, Floara di Munte is a traditionally vinified (method champenoise) sparkling wine made of indigenous grape Debina. Delightfully dry and mature, full-bodied with deep rich and toasty flavours. A beautifully zesty, characterful aperitif.

* Protected Denomination of Origin

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | A rosé for the summer

A rosé for the summer Summers call for little get-aways, the great outdoors, the sea and glasses full of vivid, loving wine. Let’s put colour in our lives! So, let us introduce you to the Greek rosé wines.

Modern rosé wines originate to -where else- France! As strange as this may sound, we owe rosé wines to the dedication of the French to... red wine. Indeed, the red wine! And this is only because, when in hot climates, the French want to drink something that reminds them -as much as possible- their beloved red. Which, in turn, means they will either drink a fresh, light red or a disguised red, that is a rosé wine. It comes as no surprise that, come spring and summer, our Mediterranean partners inundate the French and Italian Riviera with rosé wines from Tavel, Anjou and Trento. Up until a few years ago, this was a uniquely local trend! However, after 2003 - 2005, we are witnessing a steadily growing and amazingly optimistic course for rosé wines all over the world. Rosé wines are now among the wines of choice for hundreds of thousands of consumers, who have changed their habits for the sake of a rosé wine. Nowadays, rosé wines account for 10% of the global wine production, of which 75% is produced in Europe alone. Rosé wines consumption amounts to 9% of total wine consumed worldwide.

Rosé profile In Greece, rosé wines are mainly made from Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache Rouge. These are grapes providing rosé wines with an extraordinary colour easily ranging from litchi pink to cherry and from coral to salmon pink or even onionskin orange. Their rich, intensely fruity aroma is just like chewing on strawberries, berries, raspberries and all those small forest fruit. All combined with a fresh taste, yet an intense personality and a rich body. How to cherish your rosé Rosé wines are the absolute culinary passe partout. They are the most flexible partners, because they are a perfect match to most starters and typically Mediterranean dishes cooked with olive oil. It is amazing how well rosé wines go with the cuisine of all these areas, full with garlic and other aromatic herbs. For example, try a nice rosé with dishes accompanied to a garlic sauce (skordalia), or even with artichokes – notoriously wayward to wine. You will be impressed with the magic of the harmonious combination. They are also very well combined to sausages and pasta. Simply make sure you taste more zesty rosés with your starters, the milder ones with your fish and keep the richer ones for the poultry, red meat and oily casseroles. Naturally, all rosés are to be served chilled, but not frozen.

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Akakies

Alpha Estate rosé

Orinos Ilios rosé

Techni Alypias rosé

Thema rosé

Kir-Yianni Amyndeon P.D.O.

Alpha Estate Florina P.G.I *

Semeli Korinthos P.G.I

Wine Art Estate Drama P.G.I

Pavlidis Estate Drama P.G.I

Classic, racy rosé Xinomavro from one of the top quality Greek producers. Grapes are sourced from their own vineyards in Amyndeon region. A refreshing fruity aroma with lovely acidity finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. It shows tons of regional character, not to mention terrific personality.

A terrific producer and a great rosé wine from Amyndeon region. It’s a beguiling XinomavroSyrah (50%-50%) blend that defies convention with unending aromas of red fruits and flowers. Bring on the shrimp, haul out the salmon steaks or prepare the vegetables and start grilling, because this crisp and fruity rosé is a perfect barbecue companion.

This Ariorgitiko rosé comes from warm Peloponnesian vineyard. Expect flavours and aromas of cherries and strawberries with hints of wild herbs and pepper. Serve with spicy grilled chicken, mullets or pasta. (Orinos Ilios=Mountain Sun)

Overall the Wine Art Estate wines are fresh, fruit-forward, and easy-drinking. The rosé, a blend of Syrah, Merlot, Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon, is crisp with hints of strawberry and blackberries. A good mouth-watering attack wakes up the palate and gets it ready for vegetable dishes or spicy foods.

Pavlidis Estate in Drama region crafts rich, velvety textured wines. In this very attractive rosé look for springy, refreshing fruity aromas and lovely acidity. Groovy and purply, it’s simply delicious! The symphony grape is Tempranillo.

* Protected Geographical Indication

Kir-Yianni Estate Kir-Yianni Estate Yianakohori, 59200 Naoussa, Greece T: +30 23320 51100 , F: + 30 23320 51140 www.kiryianni.gr

The Kir-Yianni Estate was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry, when he left the Boutari Wine Group, the premium family wine company that his grandfather established in 1879. The Kir-Yianni Estate continues a long family tradition focusing on the production of high quality wines, which combine style with authenticity and offer true enjoyment, from grapes produced at the Estate´s extensive vineyard holdings in the two wine regions of Naoussa and Amyndeon, on the two sides of mount Vermio in North-Western Greece. Today the Kir-Yianni Estate, led by Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, follows its vision into the next phase of its history, by dynamically exploiting the cornerstones of the Kir-Yianni philosophy: desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the end consumer. The Vineyards and the Wineries The Naoussa vineyard covers 60 ha and lies at an altitude of 280−330 m. It is divided in 38 parcels, each with its own terroir, which are vinified separately giving a unique character to the final blend. The soil is mostly clay and sandy clay. The micro-climate of the area is defined by lots of rain and snow in the winter, mild and wet springs and hot dry summers, that are usually cooled down by the cold breezes from Mt Vermion. During particularly hot summers drip irrigation can be applied in order to avoid extensive plant stress. The density of plantation is 3.500-4.000 vines per ha, with a yield of 2–2.5 kg per vine. The vineyard is planted with Xinomavro (50%), Syrah (15%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), while the rest of the area is covered by various experimental varieties, such as Malbec, Petit Verdot, Negro Amaro and Mavrodaphni. The winery is equipped with temperature controlled stainless steel tanks of a total capacity of 4.000 hl. In the underground cellar, 900 American and French oak barrels of 225 and 500 litres are stored, while bottles are kept in a ground-level, air-conditioned warehouse, also used for packaging. “Koula” or “Konaki”, the traditional watchtower at the heart of the Estate, has become the winery´s emblem and today houses a modern wine-tasting room, exhibition facilities, as well as, the residence of the Boutari family. The vineyards in Amyndeon are located at an altitude of 700m and cover a total area of 16.5 ha. The soil here is sandy and poor, thus favouring the production of wines of exquisite finesse and rich aroma. The microclimate of the area is known for its cold winters and hot summers, while the presence of the four lakes tempers the continental climate preventing extreme weather conditions. Furthermore, Kir-Yianni has contracts with local producers for another 40 ha guaranteeing the

provision of first class fruit. International white varieties - Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer – as well as indigenous varieties Roditis, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, and Malvasia Aromatica - are grown here. In Amyndeon, the crash facility is equipped with temperature controlled stainless steel tanks of a total capacity of 15000 hl. The facilities also feature a sorting table, cold soak facilities, pneumatic presses and a 200-barrel underground cellar. The application of integrated cultivation methods, in all Kir-Yianni vineyard activities is a management decision based on the family’s philosophy of respect for the environment. Furthermore, integrated cultivation ensures high quality for all the products of the Estate. Its application is certified by the Organization for the Certification and Supervision of Agricultural Products AGROCERT, since 2004. Production – products Selection is the key word: Each part of the Kir-Yianni estate vineyards is harvested separately, two or three times, based on the phenolic ripening of the grapes. After the first selection in the vineyard, the grapes are brought to the sorting table, to pick only the best. A similar picking phase is also performed during wine-making and aging, in order to ensure that only the best wines are bottled. Kir-Yianni is in constant experimentation regarding the quality and type of wood (origin, capacity, burning, size of pores) used in the barrels. The main aim is always the creation of wines of a special character: Rich but refined aroma, acidity to provide body and ageing potential, perfect balance in the mouth and ease of combination with various dishes constitute the distinct style of Kir-Yianni wines, which makes them truly appealing for the modern consumer. In Kir-Yianni Estate in Naoussa the flagship Kir-Yianni Estate (Yianakohori) is produced, as well as, the 100% Xinomavro Ramnista, and the superblend Dyo Elies. In 2008, Diaporos, a single vineyard modern style Xinomavro was also released. In 2011, Ble Alepou, “Blue Fox” in English, a Bordeaux blend was launched in selected markets. In Kir-Yianni Estate in Amyndeon the focus is on whites: Tesseris Limnes, a unique blend of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, the classic Samaropetra, a Roditis and Sauvignon Blanc blend, and Petra, a Roditis and Malagouzia blend are produced. Also, the very successful rosé Akakies, the only dry P.D.O. rosé is produced from 100% Xinomavro, together with its “sibling”, Akakies Sparkling, which became an instant success as soon as it was released in summer 2012. Two red wines complete our portfolio: Paranga, the house red blend produced by grapes sourced mostly in Amyndeon, and Kali Riza, our newly launched 100% Xinomavro from old vines.

SAMAROPETRA 2012 Type/Category: White, dry/ P.G.I. Florina Origin: Private vineyards and contract-growers in Agios Panteleimonas, Florina Grape varieties: Roditis (60%), Sauvignon Blanc (40%) Celllaring: Batonnage in stainless steel tank for 2 1/2 months. Ageing potential:2 years

AKAKIES SPARKLING 2011 Type/Category: Dry Sparkling Rosé/ P.D.O. Amyndeon Origin: Selected contracted vineyards of the area of Agios Panteleimon, in the PDO zone of Amyndeon Grape varieties: 100% Xinomavro Cellaring: The base wine stays on its lees and is frequently stirred for 3 months. Ageing potential: 2-3 years

Winemaker notes:The 2012 Samaropetra has light a greenish tint. Mesmerizing notes of white floral, white peach, mango and buchsbaum make up its aroma. In the mouth it starts off with a surprising acidity that is balanced out with a round and fatty aftertaste. Its refreshing bouquet accompanies elegantly seafood, pasta with white sauces, and salads.

Winemaker notes: Bright cherry in colour, with a rich mousse and fine bubbles giving a long, continuous cordon in the center of the glass. On the nose, the juicy aromas of strawberry and cherry are enhanced by the typical vegetal character of the Xinomavro. On the palate, the rich and complex aromatic character of Akakies Sparkling is underpinned by the zesty acidity and the discrete presence of the balancing sugars. Finish is long and fruity.

KIR-YIANNI ESTATE 2009 Type/Category: Red Dry/ P.G.I. Imathia Origin: Block selection within the private vineyards at Yianakohori Varieties: 40% Ximomavro, 60% Merlot Cellaring: 14 months in 225-lt French and American barriques plus a minimum of 6 more months in bottle prior to release. Ageing potential: 10-12 years Winemaker notes: Our main goal with our “Estate” blend is to attain balance between fruit, acidity, and ripeness of tannins. As an original combination of the cosmopolitan Merlot with the “noble” indigenous grape variety, Xinomavro, Kir-Yianni Estate is distinguished by its harmony. A very good year in 2008 led to full ripeness resulting in a full body with phenolic richness. The “Estate’s” discrete acidity highlights the complex aromas and the lasting aftertaste. It is ready to be enjoyed upon release, but will also age gracefully as the red-fruit bouquet shall evolve secondary characteristics, like dried tomato, cigar-box.

KALI RIZA 2010 Type/Category: Dry red/ P.D.O. Amyndeon Origin: Selected contracted vineyards of the area of Agios Panteleimon, in the P.D.O. zone of Amyndeoni Varieties: 100% Xinomavro from the area of Amyndeon (old vines) Cellaring: The base wine stays on its lees and is frequently stirred for 14 months in 2 and 3-year-old French oak barrels. The wine ages for 1 more year in the bottle. Ageing potential: 5-8 years Winemaker notes: 2010 Kali Riza has a bright red colour. On the nose it shows an intense and complex red fruit character, typical to Xinomavro wines coming from the area of Amyndeon. On the palate it is full-bodied, with a velvety mouthful and a rich aromatic character which is balanced by a refreshing acidity and underpinned by a long, fruity aftertaste.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Nemea

Nemea The most dynamic wine country in Greece

Wherever you go inside the wine zone of Nemea, you will find vineyards. From ancient Nemea to Kleones, Gymno, Koutsi, Asprokampos, Dafni, Psari, Petri, Aidonia... And if, on the road from Aidonia to Psari, you go out of the beaten path and climb to the top of mount Oligyrto, the grandeur of the valley will unveil itself, through the endless lines of vineyards going up the slopes. Hidden between them are the wineries, becoming more and more every year, as the wine zone is becoming more and more popular among wine-makers, many of whom are also producing fine wines in other areas. It is not an exaggeration to say that Nemea has managed to attract the crème de la crème of Greek wine-makers. As a result, there is an ever increasing number of labels in all price ranges, while the Nemea and Agiorgitiko brands gain recognition both in the domestic and foreign markets. The next step is to create viticultural sub-zones to be defined by law as superior quality (grand) cru zones. The Nemea vineyards and Agiorgitiko The Nemea vineyard covers a total of 16 communities and covers the valley down to the foot of mount Kyllinion, in a total surface of 2.200 ha. The altitude of the vineyards starts at 200 and reaches all the way up to 850 metres, Agiorgitiko being the only variety. With a deep blue colour, round grapes and thick skin, this charismatic grape with the velvet surface is truly sought after. This variety thrives and prospers right here, where cool northern winds and low temperatures help the grape’s smooth maturity. Since 1971, Nemea –one of the classic reds in Greece– is registered as a Protected Denomination of Origin (P.D.O.) wine. Three zones = many Agiorgitiko types Nemea is the biggest viticultural zone in Greece. Obviously, it presents great heterogeneity. Different altitudes, soils and microclimates make up for a complexity puzzle automatically translated into a plethora of wines. For many years, the Hellenic Institute for Wine has conducted much research in this area. Their results define three production zones: the lowland zone, in the lower foot with elevation ranging from 200 to 320 meters, the medium zone, in the semi-mountainous area from 300 to 650 meters and the highland zone, at the Asprokampos plateau, from 750 to 900 meters.

Famous Nemea wines, deeply coloured, rich and full-bodied, are produced in the beautiful slopes of the middle zone. They are great to age in the barrel and develop a complex bouquet of sweet spices and dense, fresh fruits. These are wines to attract New World wines enthusiasts. In the lower zone, with its rich soils, grapes mature much faster and reach an alcoholic content of 14-15%. Thanks to this high density in sugars, the initial Nemea designation -only reserved for dry wines- was extended to include sweeter wines. Finally, grapes in the highland zone provide wines with a more fresh taste and the typical fruity aroma of the Agiorgitiko. They have paved the path for the production of rosé wines, as well as Nouveau or Primeur wines, i.e. fresh red wines consumed within the year of production. In recent years, though, these grapes are coming up strong in the production of the classic Nemea wines. The wine roads of Nemea Viticulturers and wine makers of the area have created the Wine Roads of Nemea and offer visits to their vineyards and wineries. The Great Days of Nemea are organized every September, with a number of winetasting events, culinary dinners, shows etc. (www.nemeawines.gr)

WINE

Saint George

Nemea Reserve

Nemea

Nemea Reserve

Old Vines

Skouras Nemea P.D.O.

Driopi Estate Nemea P.D.O.

Palivos Estste Nemea P.D.O.

Semeli Nemea P.D.O.

Papaioannou Estate Nemea P.D.O.

This medium- to fullbodied, plush Nemea has it all: balance, beautiful fruit (dancing cherries on your tongue) and a lovely acidity for tomato-based pasta, pizza, lasagne and sausage. It will age well, giving an always structured, fine and stylish wine.

Grown on their hillside estate vineyard in Koutsi, Nemea, this wine is a prime example of their ability to combine long standing traditions with dynamic innovation. Nearly all-new oak provides a framework of smoky caramel, delicious enough, but just an accompaniment to the blackberries, black currants, cherries and dark chocolate.

This Nemea shows bold aromas, with hints of cherry, roasted nuts and tobacco. On the palate it is well-rounded, harmonious, and rich with a lingering finish.

Aromas of bright berries, cherries and strawberries with a kiss of oak and a velvet texture. This Nemea is juicy, mouth-watering. A balanced and even acidity makes it an outstanding food wine for veal scaloppini, grilled meats and game dishes. A fantastic wine for drinking now, and should last for many years in the cellar.

When I visited for the first time the vineyards of Papaioannou Estate, I gazed up at the hill where the old vines for this wine grow. It was an incredible sight and the wine that comes from there is even better. This full-bodied, silky wine has hints of blackberry, toast, coffee and spice.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Bio wines

Bio wines

Going back to the ‘70s, the term “organic wine” implied farmers with long hair and bleached T-shirts, producing wines for their ideology rather than the good taste. Luckily, this belongs to the past. Today, organic vineyards and the wines produced thereof are synonymous to good quality. A trend is on the make and, in fact, this is one of the fastest growing categories in wine shops. Of course, up until 1950, all viticultures were organic. Synthetic fertilizers and pesticides were not known yet, so farmers were using exclusively organic products. Then came the “green revolution” with chemical formulas being considered as the state of the art in farming. They were the new messiahs, thus dominating farms globally. Reactions started in 1970, with the “back to nature” movement, when consumers started worrying about the environment and the long-term effect of chemicals used for the production of what we eat and drink. Today, scientists believe that all such chemical substances accumulate in our bodies; as they have only been in use for a few decades, we can not be certain for their long-term effects. Thus, modern nutritional habits -including genetically modified organisms, food poisoning from copper, the “mad cow” disease, the bird’s flue etc.- have shaped today’s benevolent look for organic products. What makes a vineyard organic? A generic definition is that organic farming is an integrated system to produce and manage agricultural products, which protects the environment in all stages of the ecosystem, protecting, at the same time, consumers’ health. The main attribute is the absence of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, hormones and other chemical substances in all production stages. Especially for organic viticulture, legislation maintains that only animal manure is used as fertilizer, whereas the vineyard is protected from its enemies exclusively with organic means. Copper and sulfur are used for protection against mildew and fungi (the two most common diseases affecting vineyards).

Viticulturalists receive their organic farming certificate following close inspection by certification bodies. This period differs from one country to the other, but usually a period of 3 years is considered reasonable to clear the soil from any chemical residues. Organic viticulture and wine-making in Greece In Greece, organic farming is expanding very fast in recent years, compared to conventional farming, acquiring fanatic friends but also sworn enemies. Counting the cultivated land, organic viticulture ranks second in Greece with 10% of cultivated land. (The list is headed by olives at 59%). This number includes not only vineyards for wine making but also vineyards for grapes as fruit, raisins etc. As far as wine production from organic vineyards is concerned, there are many small producers, as well as many cooperatives and big units in many areas of the country (Naoussa, Drama, Thessaloniki, Attica, Nemea, Mantinia, Crete). Thanks to this trend, the production and consumption of wine from organic grapes is increasing steadily in Greece. Even though the market size is not comparable to other countries, the market is still in the making. Recent data estimate that consumption has surpassed a million bottles. This encouraging turn of consumer behaviour is due to an ever increasing sensitivity to environmental issues and more concern for our nutritional habits. Obviously, another reason benefiting the growth of organic farming and organic viticulture is the subsidies granted to farmers by the European Union.

WINE

Malagousia

Astala

Chardonnay

Ovilos

Erodios 2008

Matsa Estate Pallini P.G.I

Domaine Spiropoulos Mantinia P.D.O.

Arvanitidis Estate Thessaloniki P.G.I

Vivlia Chora Estate Pangeon P.G.I

Babatzimopoulos Estate Vertiskos Slopes P.G.I

Much-admired vine-grower and organic cultivation pioneer, Roxani Matsa is the producer of this beautiful and typical Malagousia. Exposing layers and layers of fruit and texture this wine is sourced from the family estate’s historical vineyard in Attica, a real oasis of beauty and serenity.

Domaine Spiropoulos, well know for their commitment to environmental protection, present another Moshofilero 100% organically grown in the mountainous vineyards of the family. This single-vineyard Mantinia is a terrific refreshing white with classic herbal, grassy and zesty citrus flavours.

This is a family-owned and certified organic winery in Thessaloniki’s semi-mountainous Askos district, and if you like pure Chardonnay I highly recommend this fresh and mouth-watering for food wine. I tasted opulent flavours of pineapples, grapefruits and limes with a veil of honey. Enjoy with shellfish, other richer fish or seafood.

What a beautiful wine! Sémillon-Assyrtiko blend matured in French oak, the wine’s ripe fruit ably supports the toasty oak tones. This has an almost exotic apricot, almondnutty, biscotti aroma. Note: Vivlia Chora Estate is one of the most beautiful wineries on the Kavala region and a must-see when touring wine country.

From Anestis Babatzimopoulos, one of the Greek organic cultivation pioneer, comes a rosé wine from Xinomavro. Light, airy, silky, delicate and balanced with a gorgeous pink blush hue and a raspberry, strawberry nose.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Bio wines

Argatia

Voyatzi Estate

Avaton

Château Porto Carras

Naoussa P.D.O.

Voyatzi Estate Velvendo P.G.I

Tsantali Mount Athos P.G.I

Porto Carras Mount Meliton Slopes P.D.O.

Oenologist Yiannis Voyatzis blended Xinomavro with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a supple ripe red that shows remarkable black cherry, black currant fruit and dusted with spicy richness. From Velvendo region in Western Macedonia.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Limnio grown on the slopes of Mount Athos under harsh conditions. This is the varietal composition of Avaton. Limnio brings peppery and meaty flavours to this robust, dry red blend. Cabernet Sauvignon adds body, tannins and a rich, dark blackberry depth.

Château Porto Carras, an exclusive assemblage of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Limnio, offers a fabulous complexity, structure and remarkable intensity. The wine was made on beautiful Halkidiki region, so even if you can’t live under the Greek Sun, you can at least drink it.

The family-owned Xinomavro vineyards slope down the hillsides in this semi-mountainous region of Naoussa. The wine proposed by agriculturalist Dr. Haroula Spinthiropoulou, shows delightful dark berry fruit, lovely acidity and firm tannins that are very appealing even at this early stage, as Naoussa typically ages for decades.

Cabernet Sauvignon Agiorgitiko Oenotria Land

This wine comes from Kapandriti, Attica and is produced by Oenotria Land which belongs to the Domain Costa Lazaridi. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Agiorgitiko that has a smooth, velvety feel, lots of red fruit with a touch of spice.

Arvanitidis Estate Askos, 57016 Thessaloniki, Greece T:+30 23950 61626, F: +30 23950 61646 www.arvanitidis-winery.gr

Arvanitidis Estate is located at Askos, a quiet picturesque village near Thessaloniki, on the eastern slopes of Mount Vertiskos, at an altitude of 500 m. Amidst this beautiful region, with green hills of modest height, on the location of an old family vineyard, agronomist Thanassis Arvanitidis, together with his brother George, created in 1999 a modern vineyard and started Arvanitidis Estate. The vineyard Today, the privately owned vineyard covers an area of 5 ha and is steadily expanding. The aim of the owners is to vinify grapes only from privately owned vineyards, in order to fully control their quality.Â The broader region of Askos is characterized by clay soil that favours viticulture. The location of the Arvanitidis Estate linear vineyard was carefully selected for its soil composition, well balanced in sand and clay, ideal for restrained plant growth. The climate is continental, characterized by a significant difference in temperature between day and night during summer. The vineyard has a south-western exposure to the sun, ideal for the sunlight and temperature conditions in Greece. During summer, the region receives an upcoming breeze from Lake Koronia that favours the ripeness of grapes. The presence of this breeze also hinders the appearance of wine diseases and helps maintain the grapes in good health. As a result, organic cultivation is successfully adapted.

The entire vineyard is organically cultivated All interventions to the vineyard, especially those aiming to plant protection, are compatible with the maintenance of the biological balance of the plants below and above ground, and aim to the protection of the consumer. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah are the varieties currently cultivated, while Nebbiolo and Barbera are cultivated experimentally. In 2008 new parts of the vineyard were planted with Greek varieties Malagousia and Xinomavro to create the future wines of the estate. The estate Wine production is taking place at the small, fully equipped winery, within the family estate, a lovely property with pine, flowers and an orchard, located at the edge of Askos village. The existing winery has a space for vinification and a separate one for the ageing of the wines in oak casks. The wines Stunningly refined yet ultra complex and food friendly: A typical Chardonnay of fresh character. A truly elegant Malagousia with Greek nose. A modern expression of the classical Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot blend. A fleshy and velvety Merlot. A purple, peppery Syrah.

FOOD

Summer gastro experiences in Greece

collected by FT Bletsas, Denny Kalivoka, Evi Kallini, Evi Karkiti, Melina Melikidou, Maria Netsika, Kostis Zafirakis

2013: Year of Gastronomy in Santorini Santorini’s unique natural beauty blurs any other effect the island may have on you. However, this beautiful island is also the birthplace of equally unique products, such as the chloro (fresh cheese), the pickled caper leaves, caper itself, the famous tomataki (little tomato), the legendary fava (yellow split peas), the delicious white eggplant and, of course, the Assyrtiko grape producing its extraordinary wine. Make a note: 2013 is a year dedicated to the culinary delights of this waterless volcanic island.

The great feast in Lesvos The Roman bon-viveur, Lucullus, must have known better when he built his castle at the centre of Mytilene, also building a fish pond right next to it. According to scientists, the sea surrounding Lesvos is ideal for the reproduction and survival of sprats. Kalloni, with its scallops and sprats, is not the only culinary playhouse. At Skala Polihnitou, the fish market is an almost cinematic experience.

Yoghurt – an ancient food One of the most typical examples of the Greek nutrition’s wealth and, especially, of the Greek dairy tradition, are the various forms of yoghurt encountered in every corner of the country. Small producers, with knowledge, patience and passion, collect fresh milk every day from their own animals -sheep, goats or cows- grazing freely on mountains and pastures. Each yoghurt has its own identity, with each producer’s stamp on each little tray.

The market in Komotini The historical Tuesday bazaar in Komotini is a tradition going back to the Turkish occupation. Merchants, retailers and peddlers from Macedonia and Thrace compete each other on the price and uniqueness of their offering: food, clothes, car accessories (or even cars!), small boats, tools… you name it! The bazaar in Komotini looks much more like a museum – like a modern Babylon. Walking along the benches, you can listen to people speaking Greek, Turkish, Pomak and Rom – which only underlines the area’s rich ethnography.

Kalathaki from Lemnos (P.D.O.) We shamelessly admit our weakness for this white and salty cheese -and the sunny island it comes from. Kalathaki is a pure, local feta cheese strained and matured in traditional baskets (kalathakia) made from wicker sticks, giving the cheese its typical shape and texture, with a rich and full taste, and a colour proving the special flora of Lemnos island.

Municipal Market in Chania One of the prettiest markets in Europe. This emblematic building was started in 1911. Here you will find all traditional aromas and colours of Crete. More than 70 stores with foods (the triumph of Mediterranean-Cretan nutrition), herbs, spices… For those on a culinary and cultural tour, this trade centre is a fairytale world.

Ginger beer at the Corfu Liston Corfu, according to poet Kostis Palamas, is the point where “East embraces the West with a kiss”. This is more than crystal-clear when savouring a chilled tsitsibira -a refreshment only found here- under the Liston arcs, watching a game of cricket or simply killing time and reading the neighbourhood’s history: the Liston is a true copy of the French rue Rivoli – and a genuine Corfu picture.

Vlah cuisine at Valia Calda Alpine pastures, bewildering dew, even in the middle of August, bushes, extraordinary forests with oaks, red and black spruce, wolves, bears and deer. The area between the Ligkos and Mavrovouni, including the Valia Calda and Arkoudorema locations, defines the Pindos National Park since 1966. One of the area’s advantages is the exemplary Vlah cuisine. Local game, lamb kebabs, kodosouvli (roast pork), kokoretsi (roast goat guts), fried pork, sausages, boiled goat… the menu is endless. When in the area, you must try the local lagites, sairli and sweet rice for desert.

FOOD

Summer gastro experiences in Greece

Sweet stories in Thessaloniki Thessaloniki is a city rich in flavours and aromas. To walk through it, one has to cross rivers of whipped cream and fragrant syrups, stumble on crispy fillo pastry and mountains of dark chocolate, plunge into clouds of mahlep and leave his traces on sugar and fresh butter. Visit the Hatzifotiou Patisserie for the lightest and richest chocolate cigarillos, (www.hatzifotiou.gr), Terkenlis for his famous tsoureki (brioche) (www.terkenlis.gr), and Elenidis for his crunchy fillo triangles with lots of velvet cream (www.elenidis.com).

Seven herbs from Rhodes «Sette Herbe» is the Italian name for this liqueur. It was originally made by the Franciscan monks who once lived at the monastery of Kyra Philerimos. To date, no-one knows the recipe, save for a few locals who still make it. The rest of us know only 4 of the 7 herbs: oregano, thyme, absinthe and sage. This liqueur has digestive properties. You will find it in the little shop in front of the monastery.

Sweet habits in Xanthi This is a city advertised by tourist guides specializing in “treasure” hunting! In Xanthi, a city known for blending flavours and ideas for centuries, you can find your ideal sweet: seker pare and touloumpa at Nea Ellas, the perfect cariocas and nougats at Papaparaskevas and Nikolaidis, and delicious hanum burek, saragli, dilber dudai and other explosive syrup-covered sweets at Kazani. Vikos gorge and fillo pies in Zagori To cross the Vikos gorge -those who have done it are talking about a superb path- you will need your best walking shoes, lots of stamina and about 5 hours of your life, at a fast pace. But you can not stay indifferent to the thrill of the moment or the myriad photo opportunities, so a slow walk is more than certain, thus making the trail a little longer. The gorge is 12 km long. The best reward is a traditional meal at Kyra Kikitsa’s in Monodendri. The walls are decorated with pictures from nearby Drakolimni. But your dishes are filled with Kikitsa’s delicious pie (tel. 26530 71340)

“Tsipouro joints” in Volos In Volos, tsipouro has its own ideology: it is a break, makeshift meditation and a memory brought in the country by Asia Minor refugees. And a very democratic ideology. Despite the modernization of the city, there are still certain secret corners along the sea front and in Nea Ionia, where all “tribes” become one after a small 25cl bottle. Botarga from Messolonghi: connoisseurs only “Bafa” is the local name for the female mullet which grows in the salty waters of the Messolonghi lagoon. The micro-organisms and underwater fauna growing in this extraordinary environment give the original energy to this fish. And the fish gives us the world-famous Messolonghi botarga. It is worth spending a full day talking to the lagoon’s fishermen – most of them are citizens of the world and will talk you into the secrets of their art. With a shot of tsipouro, some botarga and other fish delices, you will feel like being on another planet, even though you are in the middle of the lagoon.

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Games with Moscofilero Skouras Μoscofilerise yourself with Skouras: enjoy all aspects that come into play (colour, aroma, mouth, body, aftertaste) and share all the subtleties of this crisp white wine with your favourite foods or person!

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FOOD

The unbearable delight of Greek sausages

The unbearable delight of Greek sausages by FT Bletsas

Sausages were created many years ago as a simple way of preserving meat. Anything not consumed directly by the family was to be used later and nothing went missing, since meat was a luxury. So they made sausages and sigklina (a method of preserving meat - especially in the islands), smoked some pieces with herbs or conserved in small portions within the animal’s own fat. Today sausages have evolved so much, they are considered products of high gastronomy. From the simple ham we put on toast to the aged Italian and Spanish sausages, there is a great range of products with the seal of each country and each region. Greek or foreign, in flimsy slides or coarsely sliced, each with its own origin, its own distinct maturation and its own unique history.

served cut into thin slices. Tip: grill lightly before serving. Goes perfectly with pulses.

The Greek sausage makers proudly serve…

Kavourmas from Thrace A very special and rare Greek sausage, made from pieces of meat cooked with their fat. Once cooled, they form large “sausages”. The traditional recipe requires cuts of beef, mutton and pork with spices.

Air-dried salami from Lefkada For many years, Lefkada is famous for its traditional air-dried salami. With secret recipes handed down from one generation to the other, fresh ingredients and aromatic spices, salamis in Lefkada are made with tender love and they mature drying hung and served in thin slices. The aroma is unique, and the peppercorns give the necessary spicy note. Louza from Mykonos This traditional Mykonos sausage owes its existence to the first pig feast, when people slaughtered pigs only once a year (on Christmas) and had to preserve their products as much as possible. The recipe for a good Louza is as follows: a piece of boneless, no fat pork chop is salted with coarse salt for 24 hours, washed and unsalted well and then flavoured with pepper, savoury and oregano. Then the piece of meat is loaded into a pig intestine and hung to air dry for about 20 days. Served in very thin slices, like tissue paper, it is quite dry and hard (because it has no fat), with a taste reminiscent of savoury, oregano and Greek nature in general. Apaki from Crete Exquisite Cretan sausage made of pure pork tenderloin lightly smoked with aromatic wood. With a strong smell of cumin, it is

Nouboulo from Corfu Awesome delicacy from Corfu. Also an air-dried sausage (it matures hanging) flavoured mainly with black pepper.

Sigklino from Mani A traditional delicacy of incredible finesse. Pork smoked slowly, boiled with wine, orange peel and spices and then kept in its fat or in virgin olive oil. It can be consumed on its own, but is wonderful in trachana soup (based on a dried fermented mixture of grain and yoghurt) or omelettes. Pastrami (pastourma) The original pastourma is made from tender pieces of veal meat (although rumour has it that camel meat is also used), pressurized into specialized presses until dry and then covered with a very thick layer of aromatic spice mixtures, the famous cements (tsimeni), and matures hanging on air. Legend says that pastourma was invented by horsemen of the Middle East, who used to put pieces of meat in their saddle pockets, on both sides of the horse. As they rode, the pieces of meat were beaten and, as a result, they would dry out and last longer. Pastourma is cut and served in very thin slices, with the characteristic aroma of cumin, paprika and cements. You can enjoy it plain or in the “Caesarean” pie, cooked with kasseri cheese and tomato sauce in puff pastries.

TSELEPOSESTATE

Sausages and wine When choosing the wine to accompany your sausage, special attention must be paid to the production method used, i.e. whether it was boiled or hung to dry. Hung dried sausages are usually stiff, therefore better combined with beer. But if you insist, choose a relatively acid white wine acidity, like Assyrtiko and Debina. Light sausages from pork meat are perfectly matched to a Chardonnay or fresh rosé wines. Finally, boiled sausages and charcuterie usually have a high fat content, therefore better served with rich, soft red wines such as Merlot or Agiorgitiko. If the intensity of spices dominates your taste, turn to more robust reds from Xinomavro or Cabernet Sauvignon.

Blanc de Gris Fruity, crisp, clean. Pleasant citrus fruits and lemon flowers aromas. Refreshing and zippy. Terrific with slightly sweet or spicy dishes. The wine is carefully produced in Tselepos Estate and with the 2012 they've produced another fascinating wine.

Μ.Ν.

Tselepos Estate

14th km Tripolis – Kastri road Arcadia, Greece T: + 30 2710 544440, F+ 30 2710 544460

www.tselepos.gr

FOOD

The Wine Plus Recipe Collection

A Food & Wine Experience

The Wine Plus Recipe Collection Over the past 12 years the Wine Plus cooking courses have welcomed several chefs to share their passions and inspirations. For the summer of 2013, we propose you 6 recipes, picked from our collection - from classic Greek to creative cuisine delicacies. Get inspired and simply enjoy the ultimate summer couple: hearty Greek food and wine! Recipes by Apostolos Altanis, executive chef Regency Casino Thessaloniki | www.regencycasinos.gr

“Greek salad” soup with scallop, shrimp & feta cheese foam Serves 6

Orzo with shrimp, chili red peppers, Greek “tzoumagias” sausages & metsovone smoked cheese Serves 4

Ingredients 800 g matured tomatoes without the skin 300 g cucumber without the seeds 200 g dried red onion 200 g green peppers 60 ml extra virgin olive oil 30 ml white Balsamic vinegar 60 g feta cheese foam (feta cheese 20 g and cream 40 g) 30 g Kalamata black olive paste 6 pc. scallops 6 pc. shrimp 3 pc. red radish 20 g salmon caviar salt – pepper

Ingredients 250 g orzo 1 garlic clove 12 pc. shrimp 50 g onion saffron 30 ml ouzo 1 red chili pepper 200 g shrimp fond 120 g Metsovone cheese olive oil

Method Put it in a blender the tomatoes, the cucumbers, the onion, the peppers, the olive oil and the rice and grind. Pass the mixture through sieve to keep the velvety juice that will be created and add salt and pepper to taste. Sauté scallops slightly in a sautéed pan with olive oil and then do the same with the shrimp. Boil the cream with the feta cheese and place the mixture on chiffon to make feta cheese foam. Serve in a deep dish, putting the scallop and shrimp in the centre. Decorate around with little olive tapenade, feta cheese foam and radish into slices. Finally pour over the soup.

Method In a small saucepan, sauté 1 chopped medium onion and 1 chopped clove of garlic. After having withered, add 50 g chopped Greek sausage and 250 g medium orzo. Sauté lightly and add one chopped chili pepper and saffron. Add 30 ml ouzo and after having evaporated, add 500 g shrimp broth. Leave to absorb all the fluids, stirring constantly. Season with salt, pepper and when ready, remove from heat. In a medium saucepan, sauté briskly 12 shrimps. After having added salt and pepper, pour in 200 g bisque and integrate with orzo. Sprinkle with some chopped parsley and after having distributed it in 4 fireproof vessels, gratinate in hot oven with small cubes from smoked Metsovone cheese and serve.

Wine companion A zippy and slightly racy Xinomavro rosé wine will work perfectly with the lively, mouth-filling flavour tomatoes bring to the table.

Wine companion The smoky and spicy flavours quickly align with a substantial wine like a slightly oaked Chardonnay or a soft, earthy Agiorgitiko rosé.

Wine Art Estate Wine Art Estate Mikrochori, 66100 Drama, Greece T: +30 25210 83626, +30 25210 83585, F: +30 25210-83632 www.wineart.gr

Wine Art Estate was created by the civil engineer Yannis Papadopoulos and the architect Yannis Kalaitzidis, both successful professionals in their own field. Yannis Papadopoulos planted in 1993 a small family vineyard in Mikrochori and started, as a hobby, to vinify his first wines in a small simple outlet. Two years later, in 1995, Yannis Kalaitzidis joined the venture. The result was Wine Art Estate and the first range of products, Techni Alipias, a red, a white and a rosé wine, were introduced and gained immediately their share of the quality wines market. Wine Art aims to present how well certain Greek and cosmopolitan varieties are adapted to the microclimate of Drama. Towards this direction, a new wine, Chardonnay Idisma Drios was put to market in 1999. This was the first of a new range of products, Idisma Drios (“sweetly oaked”), to be followed by Assyrtiko, Merlot and Syrah. In great vintages, the Estate also vinifies a limited quantity of Nebbiolo. The vineyards The Wine Art Estate vineyards at Mikrochori overlook Mount Pangeon, in antiquity home of the cult of Dionysus and the Orphic mysteries. The vineyards were planted on carefully chosen south-facing slopes, well protected against late frosts. The soil is mainly sandy-clay, suitable for the cultivation of the Greek and foreign varieties planted and ideal for the development of their characteristics. The French grape varieties Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, the Italian varieties Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, the Portuguese variety Touriga Nacional and the indigenous varieties Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, Lemniona are carefully tended, to ensure top quality fruit. Wine Art Estate has currently 16 ha of vineyards at Mikrochori. Another 10 ha were planted at Kria Vrisi, a location known since ancient times for the cultivation of the vine and the production of wines, as indicated by the ruins of a Sanctuary of Dionysus.

The winery The elegant modern winery of Wine Art Estate is located on the outskirts of the village of Mikrochori. The first section of the establishment was built in 1998 and in 2007 an adjacent building was built on the other side of the road. The construction work was completed in 2008 and the winery is now housed in a complex of two handsome buildings, while the two “towers” that mark the edge of both buildings prove architectural aesthetics and harmony. The two sections of the winery are connected by an underground tunnel, which houses the cellars. With a covered area of 3.000 m², both on the ground and underground, it has a production capacity of 300.000 bottles. The functional, spacious production area was designed specifically for the new building. It houses the state-of-the-art equipment for the production of quality wines. A computerised central control system constantly monitors the entire production process, intervening automatically and generating a record of each fermentation tank. Visits Wine Art Estate welcomes visits from wine-lovers and people who want to learn at first hand about the enchanting world of wine. The visit includes a tour of the production areas and underground cellars, and finishes in the brand new wine-tasting room, where visitors can taste the wines. On the ground floor of the new building there is an elegant restaurant, especially designed for corporate presentations and other wine-related events. The visitor gets the impression of an attractive, comfortable, warm and friendly place. Techni Alipias White 2012 Wine Advocate 90 pts Best Dry White Wine Trophy B.I.W.C. 2013, Bulgaria The wildly stimulating Techni Alipias white is a multi award-winning wine. The praise is endless each year.

FOOD

The Wine Plus Recipe Collection

Recipes by Konstantinos Arampatzis, executive chef Hyatt Regency Thessaloniki | www.hyatt.gr

Roast lamb loin with fresh herbs and roast baby potatoes Ingredients 1 ea rack of lamb 1 ea rosemary 1 ea thyme 1 ea garlic 30 ml olive oil salt and pepper 200 g baby potatoes 1 s/s tomato paste 25 ml virgin olive oil salt & pepper 50 ml red wine jus Sauce ingredients 1 ea carrot 1 ea onion 100 g celery 1 ea bay leaves 200 g tomato 200 g leek 1 bottle dry red wine Method Lamb Marinate the lamb loin with all the fresh herbs, olive oil, and garlic. Let it in the fridge for 20 minutes. Put on the charcoal gill in all sides of the meat. Cook the lamb in your favourite temperature. (Medium rare, or Medium or well done) slice it and serve. Garnish Put the potatoes in a baking tray and add tomato paste, olive oil, salt and pepper, water. Cook in the oven for 20 minutes Sauce In another baking tray put the lamb bones, vegetables and red wine. Put in the oven for 1 hour. Reduce all the liquid in another pot. Add fresh butter and serve. Wine companion Once baked, this dish will fill the room with its succulent aromas. The herbs, greens, and baked flavours call for a medium- to full-bodied Xinomavro or Cabernet Sauvignon with red fruit on the palate, subtle oak and light tannins.

Shrimps “saganaki” tomato, peppers fresh herbs and ouzo Ingredients 200 g Fresh shrimps peeled and clean / head on 30 ml virgin olive oil 1/2 chopped garlic 1/2 sliced Onion 1/2 diced green pepper 1/2 diced red pepper 1/2 chopped spicy green pepper, 50 ml ouzo 200 g fresh gated tomato 1sweet spoon tomato paste 1/8 bunch chopped parsley 100 g crumbled Feta cheese Method Put a cooking pan on fire. Add olive oil, garlic, onion and start cooking slowly until onions get a golden brown colour. Add ouzo and reduce. Add peppers tomato paste, fresh gated tomato, salt and pepper and continue slow cooking. When sauce boiled and ½ reduced add shrimps and cook 5 minutes until sauce get thick and have a body. Add crumbled feta cheese, chopped parsley and fresh oregano. Adjust taste and serve. Wine companion Shrimps “saganaki” is a mixing bowl of flavours and spices, with ouzo, garlic, tomatoes, and a gaggle of greens all competing for attention. For this explosion of flavours, nothing will do quite like a rosé wine from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon or Tempranillo. They all have complementary ripe red fruit aromas, a touch of spice and a mouth-awakening acidity.”

FOOD

Recipes by Gregory Helmis, Executive chef Domotel boutique & lifestyle hotels chain | www.domotel.gr

Sea bream fillet and spiny chicory, fennel bulb and pleurotus mushroom fricassee, served with egg and lemon emulsion Serves 4

Dutch oven cooked lamb leg served with bucatini pasta in its broth and Pecorino cheese Serves 4

Ingredients 1 kg lamb leg off the bone, bones reserved 50 g carrots chopped 50 g crelery chopped 50 g onions chopped 10 peppercorns 1 dried chili pepper 400 g bucatini pasta 150 g pecorino cheese grated 200 g chopped tomatoes, seeds removed 1 teaspoon chopped spearmint Method Divide the lamb in 4 portions and season with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven scatter the lamb bones, vegetables and spices and place on top the lamb meat. Add 300 ml water, cover and cook in oven, preheated to 180°C/Gas mark 4 for 2 hours. Remove the lamb, place in a platter, moist them with some of the liquid cover and reserve warm. Strain the remaining lamb broth and place in a 10 lt pot. Bring to a boil 4 lt of water, add 1 teaspoon of salt and cook the pasta for 4 minutes, strain and reserve the liquid. Meanwhile bring the lamb broth to a boil. Add the half cooked pasta to the lamb broth and continue to cook stirring frequently until the pasta is “al dente” and most of the lamb broth has evaporated. If more liquid is needed use the reserved liquid from the pasta. Remove from the heat; add the chopped tomatoes, the spearmint and the Pecorino cheese. Divide the pasta in 4 deep plates and place the lamb on top. Wine companion Red wines with a touch of tannin are excellent choices. Xinomavro, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo are the most popular.

Ingredients 1,2 kg sea bream (whole or up to 4 pieces) filleted (bones and head reserved) olive oil fresh rosemary - salt - pepper For the fricassee 250 ml reserved fish broth 500 g Cretan spiny chicory 1 small fennel bulb 200 g pleurotus mushrooms cut in strips 2 tablespoons chopped onion 1 table spoon chopped dill 2 egg yolks 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch Method For the fish fillets Divide the fillets in 4 portions, and rub them with olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper. Cook in oven, preheated to 200°C/Gas mark 5, skin up, 5 to 10 minutes depending of the thickness of the fillets. Alternatively sear the fillets in a non stick pan both sides for 1 to 3 minutes. For the Fricassee Clean the spiny chicory leaving the roots attached. Place a large pot with water and salt on high fire and when it starts to boil blanch the fennel quarters until tender. Remove, let them cool, remove the root and slice. In the same pot blanch the spiny chicory for 1-2 minutes, strain in a pasta colander and scatter 10-12 ice cubes on the top. Leave to cool. In a nonstick pan, melt 20 g butter and add the mushrooms and the chopped onion. Cook until tender and add the fennel slices. Cook for a further minute and add the spiny chicory. Cook gently for 1 minute, remove from fire, add the dill and set aside. Using a small pot bring the 250 ml fish stock to a boil, adjust the seasonings and add the lemon juice. In a bowl combine the egg yolks with the cornstarch. Add the fish broth little by little whisking vigorously. Return the liquid in the pot and simmer whisking until it thickens. Scoop 2-3 tablespoons of the egg/lemon emulsion in the spiny chicory/mushroom/fennel fricassee and divide it in four soup plates. Place the fish fillets on top and drizzle the remaining sauce. Wine companion Assyrtiko, Sauvignon Blanc, Malagousia (and their blends) offer a touch of crisp acidity that will complement, but not overwhelm, the subtle taste of the fish. Acidity in wine enhances the flavours and cleanses the palate of any oiliness, preparing you to appreciate the next bite all the more.

FOOD

Eating in Thessaloniki

Eating in Thessaloniki: a town circuit

Mediterranean & Greek Cuisine: Wine Plus pick Culinary delights reviewed by: Evi Kallini

Coq au zen

City centre Akadimia Very charming, cosy restaurant at atmospheric Ag. Mina Street. Entering the summer mood, the menu takes full advantage of fresh vegetables and herbs to produce a Mediterranean and Greek cuisines’ repertoire with a classical base that has many resonances of modern cooking. All at poor man’s prices! (3, Agiou Mina St., tel. + 30 2310 521803) Frutti di Mare The restaurant has tables out on the pavement all year round, with a view of the Bazaar Hamam. Enjoy your wine with delicious seafood and meat mezedes. (20, Komninon St., tel. +30 2310 239100) Bistrot Elegant environment and high-quality cuisine at the restaurant of the Excelsior Hotel. Creativity and tradition blended in a range of Mediterranean dishes. (10, Komninon St. & 23, Mitropoleos St., tel. +30 2310 021020) Coq au zen Delightful bistro, a gastronomic oasis amidst the bustle of the Valaoritou neighbourhood, offering a small but carefully fashioned menu. (37, Valaoritou St., Thessaloniki, tel. +30 2310 520119) Ayioli Café-bar-restaurant with a trendy environment and the best balcony on the old waterfront. Menu featuring imaginative blends of Mediterranean ingredients. (15, Nikis Av., tel. +30 2310 262888) Ta Nisia [The islands] Mediterranean cuisine, with the focus mainly on fish; a rich menu of more than 150 different types of seafood dish, including starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses. (13, Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 285991)

Alfredo’s Garden

Fred & Ginger

Garcon Brasserie Café-bar-restaurant with a trendy environment and the best balcony on the old waterfront. The cuisine follows current trends. (Nikis Av. & 2, Ag. Sofias St., tel. +30 2310 253033) 7thalasses [7 seas] The post-modern fish taverna par excellence! You will imagine you are on Mykonos! Friendly staff, good atmosphere, fresh fish, shellfish, seafood and well-informed wine list. (10, Kalapothaki St., tel. +30 2310 233173) Clochard Stylish dining in an atmospheric setting. Classic venue for lovers of good food. Award-winning Greek cuisine with some beautifully prepared international dishes. (4, Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 239805) Mandola Eptanesian kitchen at its best. You must try the famous rooster pastitsada, the tsigarelli, the riganada, the frigadeli, the cefalonian minced meat pie with yoghurt and, of course, their desert of halva mousse with revani. (19, Katouni str., Ladadika, tel. 2310 523136) Restaurant Lounge Bar Β The restaurant is located inside the Museum of Byzantine Culture. With its beautifully designed atrium, full of greenery, it offers a breath of fresh air in summer months and a superb Mediterranean menu. (2 C’, Septemvriou St., tel. +30 2310 869695) Zythos - Doré Well-known haunt of artists and intellectuals. The courtyard offers refreshing shade and a view of the White Tower, while the cuisine prepares a range of Mediterranean flavours, same with Zythos in Ladadika. (7, Tsiroyianni St., tel. +30 2310 279010)

Old City Yenti Ouzeri with rembetiko music, in the shadow of the old Yenti Koule prison and castle. Serves a wide range of meat and seafood dishes. (13, Ioannou Papareska St., tel. +30 2310 246495) Moni Lazariston Fred & Ginger The restaurant of the Lazaristes Hotel, which has won over bon viveurs with its beautiful design, cosmopolitan atmosphere and gourmet cuisine! (16, Kolokotroni St., Stavroupoli, tel. +30 2310 647444) Kalamaria – Nea Krini To koutouki tou kavouri [The crab’s shell] Ouzeri and fish taverna, with superb fresh fish, seafood and delicious mezedes. Every aspect of the venue contributes to a warm and friendly ambiance. (71, M. Kallidou St. & Xifilinon St., tel. +30 2310 419051) H taverna stin Platia Skra [Skra Sq. Taverna] Taverna with superb fresh fish, seafood and delicious mezedes. Every aspect of the venue contributes to a warm and friendly ambiance. (Skra Sq., Kalamaria, tel. + 30 2310 ) Mavri Thalassa [Black Sea] Very popular fish taverna, Mavri Thalassa has recently moved along the lines of the classic tavernas in Nea Krini. Menu features fresh fish, shellfish and other seafood dishes. (3, N. Plastira St., Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 932542) Yialos Classic fish and mezedes taverna, enjoying superb location on the waterfront at Kalamaria. Ouzo or wine accompanied by delicious mezedes and a unique view of the sea. (Ν. Plastira St., Mikro Emvolo, Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 442121)

Hamodrakas Well-known Nea Krini fish taverna, founded in 1926. Specializing in seafood, the business has been handed down from father to son in the Gofas family. (13, Μ. Gagyli St., Aretsou waterfront, tel. +30 2310 447943) Oraia Smyrni One of the city’s top fish tavernas, famous for its high-quality cuisine and exceptional service. The fish soup is not to be missed. (24, Kountouritou St., Nea Krini, tel. +30 2310 436035) Airport Alfredo’s Garden Open air restaurant in the lush gardens of the Regency Casino. The summer location of Alfredo’s, one of the best restaurants in Thessaloniki. Executive chef Apostolos Altanis features modern Mediterranean and Greek cuisine. A menu of creatively enhanced dishes is served in an idyllic setting with an orchestra to entertain diners. Extensive wine list. (12th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 491199) Amvrosia Sunny, spacious, comfortably casual, this is the restaurant of the Hyatt Regency Hotel. You will sample the cuisine of executive chef Kosta Arambatzis, basically Greek with some exceptions, mainly characterized by good taste. (13th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 401234) Ristorante Da Vinci Tastefully designed restaurant at the Nikopolis Hotel, with a menu featuring sophisticated Italian cuisine by executive chef Stefanos Stamidis. The gastronomic quality one would expect from one of the Leading Hotels of the World. (16-18, Asklipiou St., Pylaia, tel. +30 2310 401000)

FOOD

Eating in Athens

Eating in Athens: a town circuit

Mediterranean & Greek Cuisine: Wine Plus pick Culinary delights reviewed by: Denny Kalivoka, Niki Mitarea

Trapezaria

GB Corner Art deco atmosphere, opulent setting, superb service -all at Athens’ most chic and long-established bistro, opened in 1974. An all time classic choice, with authentic Greek dishes from talented chef Sotiris Evangelou. (Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Square, tel. +30 210 3330000) Cibus Set in the historic grounds of the Zappeion, with a magical view of the Acropolis and classic Greek cuisine, Cibus is a veritable oasis in the heart of the city. (Zappeion Gardens, tel. +30 210 3369364) Papadakis The queen of Papadakis’ kitchen is Argiro Barbarigou, a cook who personally selects the best ingredients to prepare traditional dishes in her casseroles and serve them with a modern twist. (15, Fokilidou str., Kolonaki, tel. 210 3608621) Tzitzikas kai Mermingas [The cicada and the ant] Youthful, value-for-money restaurant. Serving mainly mezedes in warm, agreeable atmosphere, décor reminiscent of a traditional general store; wide choice of mezedes on offer. (12-14, Mitropoleos St., tel. +30 210 3247607) Trapezaria The cuisine of chef and proprietor Dimitris Panagiotopoulos draws on his extensive research into Greek cooking. On the tiny restaurant’s beautiful hall you can sample well know Greek recipes or “new-classic” plates while enjoying a fine wine from the excellent cellear. (1, Theodorou Negri, Makriyanni, tel. 210 9213500) Varoulko A well-known and very popular eating place in Athens. Original and multi-award-winning (Michelin included) fish recipes by Lefteris Lazarou, combining personality and superb technique. (80, Piraeos St., tel. +30 210 5228400)

Grand Bretagne

Athiri Stylish dining in an atmospheric setting. Innovative Greek dishes from chef Alexandros Kardasis. (15, Plataion St., Keramikos, tel. +30 210 3462983) Cryssa Beautiful place and carefully selected dishes, cooked by a lady who has mastered the art of being a hostess. (81, Dimofontos St., Ano Petralona, tel. +30 210 3412515) Mani Mani A restaurant worshiping the local cuisine of Mani, yet also presenting dishes from other areas. For many years, food served here manages to be tasty, un-fancy and affordable. (10, Falirou str. Koukaki, tel. + 30 210 9218180) Hytra One of the best restaurants in Athens. A menu of Mediterranean dishes, with a pronounced Greek influence. Chef: Nikos Karathanos (7, Navarchou Apostoli St., Psyrri, tel. +30 2103316767) Milos restaurant The gourmet restaurant of the Hilton Hotel. Excellent fish cuisine and rare Greek deli. (Hotel Hilton, 46, Vas. Sofias Ave., tel. +30 210 7244400) Alatsi Very popular restaurant with high level traditional Cretan cuisine. (13, Vrassida St., (opposite the Hilton), tel. +30 210 +30 210 72 10 501) P Box A New York-style deli restaurant. Exuberant chef Christophoros Peskias runs an open kitchen, working his magic among his pots and pans in full view of the diners. The restaurant is on the small side, with one wall covered in shelves stocked with all sorts of delicacies for sale. (11, Levidou St., Kifisia, tel. +30 210 8088818)

COSTAS LALiKOS

Milos

Varulko

Yevseis me onomasia proelefsis [Tastes with an Appellation of Origin] A fine old house in Kifisia, elegantly decorated and with a friendly atmosphere, serving sophisticated Greek cuisine lovingly prepared by chef Nena Ismyrnoglou. (317, Kifisias Ave, tel. +30 210 8001402) Tilemachos Traditional Greek tavern that has developed into a warm, modern grill house. Tasty appetizers, properly cooked meat, great wine list. (19, Fragkopoulou St., Kato Kifisia, tel. +30 210 8077468) Prasinos Lofos [Green Hill] Tried and tested Cretan delicacies, served in a tranquil setting surrounded by pine trees - one of the city’s favourite dinner venues. (89, Alimou Ave., Osios Lavrentios, Alimos, tel. +30 210 9913811) Papaioannou Possibly the best fish taverna in Athens, a veritable education in the proper preparation of fish and the importance of seeking out the very best raw ingredients. (5, Philippou St., Mikrolimano, Piraeus, tel. +30 210 4225059) Vasilainas In the kitchen of this historic restaurant, chef Manolis Aslanoglou prepares superb and highly inventive dishes, using authentic ingredients of the finest quality. (72, Aitolikou St., Piraeus, tel. +30 210 4612457) Koundouros Fanatic lovers of this restaurant are seeking the authentic Cretan cuisine. The owner and chef Nick Koundourakis grew up in the villages of Hania and loved his grandmother’s cooking. (51, Agias Paraskevis str. Bournazi, tel. + 30 210 5713546)

Circus From the aromatic Gewürztraminer variety. Green yellow colour. Rich in exotic and muscat aromas. Balanced, pleasant acidity and a long-lasting mouth finish.

Mountainous Vineyards of

COSTAS LALiKOS

Palaia Kavala, Greece T: + 30 2510 836938, F+ 30 2510 836938

FOOD

Where to savour the Greek cuisine

Where to savour Greek cuisine

Reviewed by: Denny Kalivoka, Melina Melikidou, Maria Netsika, Kostis Zafirakis

From fresh fish to casseroles and gourmet dishes, here are the culinary propositions not to be missed when travelling around Greece, north to south and east to west.

Ioannina Gastra A restaurant offering reliably good value in Ioannina. In its beautiful courtyard you can taste lamb or kid, slowly oven-roasted in a clay pot with a cast iron cover. Delicious! Just like all other traditional dishes in this restaurant. (16Α, Kostaki street, Agia Eleousa, Ioannina, tel. + 30 26510 61530) Bourazani The ultimate game culinary experience. Deer, roe deer, boar and wild goat bred in the owner’s farm. (Aidonohori, Konitsa, tel. + 30 26550 61283) Florina Kontosoros Delicious local cuisine with the owner’s personal touch. Traditional casseroles and baked dishes difficult to find elsewhere, with local produce at the centre stage. You should sample the fried “kas”, the “sout makalo”, the pies and the traditional pasta. A wide selection of wines from their beautiful wine cellar. (Xino Nero, Florina, tel. + 30 23860 81551) Thomas A family taverna with a great tradition. The menu includes cooked food, roasts, game and many cheeses from all over Greece. An up-to-date and extensive wine list. (Sklithro, Florina, tel. + 30 23860 31206) Naoussa Oinomagiremata Unusual Greek cuisine with rare recipes from all over the country, prepared by the owner and his mother using organic raw materials. An up-to-date wine cellar, with emphasis on local wines. (Stefanou Dragoumi and Venizelou street, Naoussa, tel. + 30 23320 23576) Halkidiki Sousourada and Sgouros Skatjoxiros [Wagtail and Curly Hedgehop] Modern Greek cuisine at its best, served in their cosy courtyard. Taste

the fennel pie with kaseri cheese, the coq au vin, the fried chickpea balls, the pork knuckle and their delicious fresh salads. (Athitos, Halkidiki, tel. + 30 23740 91594) Marina Below the bridge and next to the boat-yard in the little harbour of Potidea you will find the simple luxury of Marina, and, with its nautical décor you’ll be forgiven for thinking that you are aboard a yacht. (Potidea, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23730 41570) Tomata Apart from its fabulous natural backdrop and cosmopolitan aura, Sani Resort in Cassandra is also renowned for its gastronomic offerings like the very Greek-gourmet Tomata run by chef Chrysanthos Karamolengos. (Sani, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23740 99400) Trizoni A beautiful yard and high-quality cuisine at this stylish fish restaurant run by Stergios Sousouras. Creativity and tradition blended in a range of starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses. With its genuinely local shellfish and fish, this is one very good reason to visit Kassandra. Not to be missed. (Kriopigi, Cassandra, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23740 51945) Kritikos A fish restaurant serving exquisite seafood creations. Let your taste buds discover sapphire, grooved sea-squirt and ham mussel stew, fish soups, paella, pasta with lobster and of course whatever fish tickles your fancy. (Ouranopolis, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23770 71222) Almyra The ultra classy Eagles Palace resort in Ouranopolis has consistently invested in gastronomy and wine. This you can confirm by dining at the gastronomic restaurant Kamares, in the fish taverna Almyra, which serves you right where the waves splash and in the verdant Vinum Garden. (Ouranopolis, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23770 31101-4)

Marigoula Tiny dinning room, beautiful yard and dishes based on Greek gastronomic traditions enhanced by the resourceful talents of energetic owner. Wide variety of excellent Greek wines. (Poligiros, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23710 23171) Pieria Gastrodromio en Olympo Outstanding and creative Greek cuisine in a beautiful setting with a view over the Enipeas gorge of Mount Olympus. Andrea Gavri’s now famous culinary kitchen offers a season-oriented menu with cheese and charcuterie from all over Greece. (Litohoro, Pieria, tel. +30 23520 21300, 23520 21301) Pelion Aleka A restaurant named after its owner offering inspired versions of local dishes. Spetsofai (a Greek dish made of sausages and peppers), delicious chickpea soup and pies. One of the best options in all of Pelion. (Tsagkarada, Pelion, tel. +30 24260 49380) Galaxidi To Barko tis Maritsas (Maritsa’s embarkment) In a beautiful traditional building on the seafront of Galaxidi you will find a restaurant known for its elegance, both decorative and culinary. (Galaxidi, tel. + 30 22650 41059) Monemvasia Matoula An impressive yard with a breathtaking view to the sea, inside Monemvasia’s city walls. In combination with the restaurant’s casseroles and oven bakes, especially the vineleaf wraps with egg and lemon sauce, bliss is a mouthful away! (Monemvasia Castle, tel. +30 27320 61660) Mani Kiria Lela Enjoy summery weather in this picturesque restaurant with a courtyard extending to the sea. A bustling place, thanks to the delicious cuisine, particularly the casseroles and oven bakes. (Kardamili, Mani, tel. +30 27210 73541) Samothraki Sotiros Goat is served in greaseproof paper at this taverna which is to be found in the gully next to the small church. The tables are laid under the plane and fig trees. You can watch the cook in the yard peel the potatoes and fry them in large pans over the wood fire. (tel. +30 25510 41500) Lesvos Vafios This is a taverna and a gastronomic staging post. Surrounded by vegetation, the cobbled yard with its wooden pergolas is the perfect place to savour local recipes and enjoy the view of Molyvos castle. Our tips: marvellous gkiouzlemedakia (cheese pies), exohiko, lamb with chickpeas and kiskiek (traditional dish with lamb, cracked wheat and cumin). (Vafios, Lesvos, tel. +30 22530 71752)

Limnia Gi A white and a red Limnos P.D.O. wine with a Mediterranean heart and an international soul. Limnia Gi white What a beautiful wine! Ultraclean and bright, this Muscat of Alexandria shows lovely varietal flavours of citrus fruits in a floral background. Dry and refreshing would be perfect with spicy dishes, grilled seafood, chicken, cheese and fruits. Limnia Gi red A brand new label, Limnia Gi red is made from Kalabaki or Limnio grape, an ancient variety indigenous to the island of Limnos. Delicious with a pleasant dark berries and plums finish that goes on and on. Drink with pasta, grilled meats and game dishes.

DOMAINE CHATZIGEORGIOY Karpasi, Lemnos tel. + 30 22540 31082 www.chatzigeorgioulimnos.gr

FOOD

Where to savour the Greek cuisine

Anemoessa The tranquil little harbour of Skala Sikamnia, with its fishing boats and the small church of the Panagia Gorgona (Virgin Mary Mermaid) nestled above the rock, is reminiscent of a bygone age. Your joy will be complemented by the food in the Anemoessa fish taverna. (Skala Sikamnia, Lesvos, tel. +30 22530 55360) Patmos Vegghera Patmian chef, Georgios Gryllis has brought with him a wealth of experience from Athens to create on Patmos a gastronomic restaurant with refined art de la table and Mediterranean cuisine. (Skala, Nea Marina, Patmos, tel. +30 22470 32988) Andros Chez Zozef This place is like a doll’s house. Chandeliers in an art deco dining room with a buffet that looks like a grocery shop. Modernized local cuisine using the island’s produce. You must absolutely try the frutalia, the rooster pasta, the limpet pilaf, the local pie with wild greens, the kid with lemon and olive oil sauce and the Andros apple pie! (Pitrofos, 6km before Andros Hora, tel. +3- 22820 5105) Mylos Medusa In a small fishing village of this wonderful island, you will taste exquisitely cooked dishes. Grilled octopus and sardines, small fish and mylos pies. The swordfish is masterfully roasted and served with the perfect lemonmustard sauce. Ask for the mushrooms stuffed with cheese and peppers. The chips and the Greek salad with mizithra cheese are reason enough for you to come here. You can reserve your table to enjoy the full moon rising behind the white rocks in Mandrakia. (Mandrakia, Mylos, tel. + 30 22870 23670) Paros Barbarossa The most beautiful location on the island is the small port of Naoussa and its most famous fish tavern is Barbarossa. Here you can enjoy Eftihis’ tender care and the guaranteed locally-sourced fish. Eftihis

carries on his father’s heritage, serving, making small talk with his good customers and suggesting his favourites to the new ones. Visit early in the afternoon, on the boat back from Laggeri. (Naoussa, Paros, tel. +30 22840 51391) Ios Polidoros Polidoros offers very good value for money on the Koumpara beach, 2 km from the port. A friendly environment, a relaxed atmosphere, delicious home-made dishes (the pastitsio is incredible) that often run out by the end of the afternoon and fresh fish. Mister Polidoros looks like a daydreaming poet. Not to be missed. (Koumpara beach, Ios, tel. +30 22860 91132) Santorini Selene One of the best Greek restaurants, showcasing local products. All time classic dishes are the little pies with anthotiro and dill, spinach with pine cone seeds and raisins, small tomatoes with caper and fresh cheese, mushrooms stuffed with crab and cheese. (Pyrgos, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 22249) Rhodes Mavrikos Located in beautiful Lindos, in a courtyard. Mavrikos offers one of the best fish-based cuisines in Greece. Their classic hors d’oeuvres include caper leaves ragout and puréed split peas with a sweet homemade sun-dried tomato sauce. The “black dish”, made from black giant beans with carob honey and homemade pork jerky is also delicious, as are the marinated garfish kebab and the baked skate with laurel leaves. (Lindos square, Rhodes, tel. +30 22440 31232) Crete Avli Avli serves traditional recipes with a modern twist in Rethimnon, in a 17th century Venetian palace, hidden in a stone courtyard full of Cretan plants and herbs, sculptures and antiques. The wine list is a pleasant surprise, with more than 400 Greek wines. (22, Xanthoudidou & Rodamanthios, Rethimna, Crete, tel.+30 28310 26213)