Wine Press Northwest Fall 2008 by Wine Press Northwest

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 11, No. 3

N O R T H W E S T

FEATURES

38 Climate change The Northwest map of which grapes grow where has been changing along with the weather.

48 Little Italy We taste through Northwest Sangioveses, Nebbiolos, Dolcettos, Barberas, Zinfandels and Primitivos.

60 Great Northwest Wine Lists We give out our 10th annual awards for restaurants with the best Northwest wine lists. And this year’s winner is not The Herbfarm.

76 Seafood and Arneis Two Northwest chefs pair seafood dishes with Ponzi Vineyard’s 2007 Arneis. Del Rio Vineyards in Gold Hill, Ore., is one of the vineyards participating in a climatology study by Greg Jones, professor of environmental studies at Southern Oregon University in Ashland. Story starts on Page 38.

Fall 2008

DEPARTMENTS 8 Wine Nose New tools on winepressnw.com

10 Letters 12 A Distant Perspective Dan Berger’s take on the future

14 Market Grapevine Felicitous fall feasting

16 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Tongue-twisting varieties are cool

18 Urban Sips The girl with the golden glass

20 Wine Destinations A weekend in Oliver, B.C.

22 25 26 86 106

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Recent Releases Vintage Musings A vintage look at Walla Walla

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1564 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Vanessa Bailey, Jessica Munnell, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Editorial consultant: Jon Bauer Columnists: Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing writers: Mary Hopkin Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Ad sales: Mona Perdue, 360-373-2659 E-mail: monaperdue@comcast.net To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $10 U.S., $12 Canadian and $15 outside of North America per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Mailing address: P.O. Box 2608 Tri-Cities, WA 99302-2608 Shipping address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2008 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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winepressnw.com

We’re also on

NORTHWEST WINECAST

Aug. 5, 2008: Ernst Loosen

“

VOICES

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from The Wine Knows blog community.winepressnw.com

The hardest part about rosé is getting it into the drinkers' glass. From there on, rosé is easy to sell. There is still a lot of stigma from the Franzia White zinfandel days, but with more and more producers focusing on rosé, excellent examples of this wine are fast becoming more commonplace (and at very competitive prices). — vinorojo (July 16) If I spend $35 or more on any wine — syrah, cab, or whatever, it had better bring something different and exciting to the table. The too-ripe fruit and high alcohol levels that mask whatever nuances the wine may have, that the oak didn’t already hide, simply aren’t for me. — timinspokane (Sept. 2)

Each Tuesday, catch the Northwest Winecast, an online video show. Recent episodes have gone to the Riesling Rendezvous, 3 Rivers Grill in Hood River, Ore., Columbia Crest’s 25th anniversary and the Bridgewater Bistro in Astoria, Ore.

SEARCH THE ARCHIVES OF WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

Looking for a wine review? You can now search our entire database of wine reviews from the entire decade of Wine Press Northwest. That’s more than 8,000 reviews of wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. The search is free and is on winepressnw.com.

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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08 Wine Nose

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

New tools on winepressnw.com

he next time you log onto Wine Press Northwest’s Web site — winepressnw.com — I hope you’ll notice a few changes. In July, we gave the site an overhaul, including a redesign, a new publishing system, new tools and a new emphasis. We launched winepressnw.com in April 1998, the same month we debuted Wine Press Northwest. Back then, life and Web designs were simpler. The site included our magazine content and little else. In 1999, we launched our now-popular Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter. It was a simple text e-mail, and we never thought to include any of that on the site. In 2003, we put the site through several big changes. First was a redesign to make it appear that a first-grader didn’t design it. We also de-emphasized presenting the stories by magazine issue (Summer, Fall, etc.) and more by category (Oregon, Washington, etc.). Key to the project was a custom-built, searchable database that would hold our wine reviews, as well as wineries and wine shops from throughout the Northwest. Even by 2003, searchable databases such as what we envisioned were not easy to create or maintain. The programmer who built it did not know a lot about wine, but he had an idea of what we wanted to accomplish and created a fine tool. Unfortunately, this was before Web 2.0 was all the buzz, and it didn’t have any tools that allowed Web site visitors such as you to help keep the site updated. Additionally, adding reviews and maintaining the information was arduous and time consuming. Most importantly, the user experience was less than optimal. Additionally, we learned that a lot of visitors wanted stories organized by magazine issue rather than by subject matter. Since 2003, blogs, forums and other tools that provide a way for visitors to interact have become all the rage. In 2005, we installed our Wine Press Northwest forum at community.winepressnw.com, using an open-source publishing system called Drupal. In April 2006, I used it to launch my blog, The Wine Knows. The look and feel of this site was completely different than the rest of the site (and remains so today). In the past two-and-a-half years, thousands of people visit the blog and dozens of regulars not only comment on my missives but also use the site’s forum tools to start conversations with others. In December 2006, we launched the Northwest Winecast, a weekly video show about Northwest wine. It is available on YouTube.com as well as winepressnw.com. Each week, we visit with winemakers, chefs, sommeliers, grape growers and wine merchants. The publishing system we started to use in 2003 was being phased out by our parent company beginning in late 2006. By this spring, a lot of programming folks were pushing me 8

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pretty hard to migrate to the new system so they could retire the servers. The new publishing system is really slick, handling stories, photos, audio files, video and other rich media beautifully. However, we still didn’t have a good database solution, and I was determined to provide readers with a way to search wine reviews, wineries and wine shops. I looked at some public solutions such as Google Base and Freebase, but neither quite functioned the way I hoped. At the point of despair, I came across an Atlanta company that specialized in working with media companies to provide easy-to-use and inexpensive searchable databases. All I needed to do was organize all my data into a comma-delimited format (such as a spreadsheet). I saw the light and got to work. Converting our off-line databases for wine shops and wineries was easy. In fact, I put them into Google Docs and shared them so my blog readers could see if I was missing any of their favorite merchants or wine shops. If I was, they could submit the information via a form that would go straight into the database, which I could then easily update. The wine reviews were more difficult because they were all text files. I figured out how to format them so I could get them into a spreadsheet easily. However, each issue’s wine reviews would take up to four hours to enter. Multiply that by 40 issues and you could see the task I faced. As I write this, I have just two issues left to enter, which should be complete by the time you read this. That’s more than 8,000 reviews of wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. The searchable databases are the big new features on the site, but you’ll notice a lot more. We’re highlighting our weekly video wine show, and we’ve added some advertising positions (nothing obnoxious, I assure you). We’re now in the process of organizing our magazine content two different ways: by issue and by subject. Thus, if you want to read the Summer 2008 issue online, you can find all the stories; and if you want to read all of Braiden Rex-Johnson’s columns, you can do that, too. Adding in 10 years’ worth of stories is taking some time, but we’re diligently working on that. We’ve also added commenting, so you can leave your thoughts about any story on the site. We’ll continue to add more features, such as mapping and other interactive tools, as we move forward. Take some time looking at the site and let me know what you think. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest and author of The Northwest Wine Guide: A Buyer’s Handbook. He can be reached at 509-582-1564 and via e-mail at editor@winepressnw.com. Watch his weekly video wine show at www.winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

09 Maryhill

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LETTERS TO THE EDITOR

AgriVino reopens, but debate continues Dear Editor: I’m writing Wine Press Northwest on behalf of the Oregon Liquor Control Commission in response to a story in your Summer 2008 issue regarding selfserve alcohol laws. The perspectives on self-serve are derived from years of study into public safety and the positive effects of human interaction during alcohol purchases. Recently, a new product, the Enomatic Wine Preservation System has appeared in the Northwest. The machine provides a longer shelf-life and a measured pour, reducing waste and saving money. An extra feature is the Enomatic Wine Card, which allows a patron to purchase a pre-paid gift card then self-serve their wine at the machine. Every Oregon business that serves alcohol is required by Oregon statute to have a person with a valid service permit sell, mix and dispense alcoholic beverages. As long as a valid service permit holder dispenses the wine, the Enomatic Wine Preservation System is legally compliant. Several machines are currently being used in Oregon, but they are behind the bar and are operated legally by servers with valid permits. On-premises liquor licensees, their managers and servers are required to complete an OLCC-approved Alcohol Server Education class and submit a service permit application in order to obtain a valid service permit. The core emphasis of the alcohol server education class is to inform and educate class participants about: • The basic liquor laws of Oregon, • How to recognize visibly intoxicated people (VIPs) • Techniques on how to refuse alcohol service or remove an alcohol drink from a VIP • How to prevent minors from obtaining alcohol • How to properly check ID The intent is to have a person who is trained to detect and prevent visibly intoxicated individuals and minors from being served alcohol; this is 10

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accomplished in part through verbal interaction with these customers. These educational training requirements also include recognizing the fifty signs of visible intoxication. This machine is not capable of detecting those signs. While the machine is sophisticated and great for storing and preserving wine, it can’t tell you the age of the person holding the card or whether that person is intoxicated at the time they are pouring the wine. If a customer gives his or her card to another customer, the machine would not know the difference. Alcohol is a drug that impairs judgment. People who are consuming alcohol can’t be expected to monitor their own service and behavior. Most people can agree that reducing the carnage and grief of injuries and death on our roadways because of over-service of alcohol or service to minors is a good thing. The OLCC is charged with enforcing the liquor laws of the state, and it’s a state law passed by the legislature that says a person has to serve the alcohol, and that person has to pass an Alcohol Server Education class and have a service permit. Respectfully, Thomas B. Erwin Government Affairs Director Oregon Liquor Control Commission

Dear Editor: AgriVino is open again at Abbey Road Farm as all of the Enomatic machinery has been purchased by our manager, Todd Steele. Todd has decided to live with the OLCC’s nonsensical interpretation for the time being until he can relocate the facilities to Portland. I, however, will not yield to the OLCC’s ruling; it’s a matter of principle and I’ve chosen not to continue to deal with an agency of state government that is, in my opinion, openly deceitful. At this point, the upshot of “AgriVino’s aggravation” is that Portland will get another wine bar and Yamhill County — together with its focal hospitality enterprises — will lose what has been referred to as the most innovative and creative business concept to come along in the wine industry in decades. It’s my belief that the OLCC has demonstrated that it will absolutely not yield to intellect, culture or common sense but will continue its penchant for ignorance of constitutional rights by enforcing absurd interpretations and encouraging staff to fabricate facts and conjure excuses. Most of all, they have underscored through their actions in this matter that they have the right to remain stupid and, by God, they will defend that right by continuing to supply zero reasoning and blank stares no matter how foolish they may look! In the end, it’s painfully obvious that you just cannot rationalize with irrational people. The good news is that we can still go get as many pitchers of beer as we want and pour for ourselves at any tavern in Oregon and nobody is going to restrict us whatsoever! That’s surely a safer proposition than self-pouring one ounce of wine. John Stuart Co-owner/operator Abbey Road Farm Carlton, Ore. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

11 St. Laurent

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

How sweet is that wine? An answer

s dozens of wineries around the United States consider whether to leap into the Riesling derby, following the huge success of Chateau Ste. Michelle with that variety, one of the linchpins on which decisions are based is: Can I sell this wine? And the ability to sell many white wines is whether the consumer will favor the amount of sweetness in the wine. Riesling is a grape that, to many people, sounds like it’s going to be sweet. Some believe it will be very sweet. Some wine snobs even think Riesling is for wimps because of its sugar. And such pedantic folks would never take the time to learn about really dry Rieslings. So it seems apt that the newly formed International Riesling Foundation (IRF), with firm support from wineries around the world, has released the Riesling Taste Profile, a two-sided system for identifying the sweetness in wines from member wineries. IRF, which was first talked about in an informal meeting at Chateau Ste. Michelle in June 2007, asked me to come up with the guidelines on sweetness, understanding that what is at play here more than just sugar is also how much acid is in the wine, what its pH is, and other factors. I worked with a number of winemakers for guidance and drew up a five-point sweetness chart. Members then said they believed that three levels of sweetness might work, and at one point we toyed with a six-point suggestion, understanding that such a plan was simpler than was a 10-point sweetness scale used in Canada. After months of wrangling, the sweetness scale finally approved by the IRF board now uses four basic terms — “dry,” “medium dry,” “medium sweet” and “sweet” — to define various levels of perceived sweetness. By perceived sweetness, we refer to the fact that one wine with 1% residual sugar may taste sweet to most tasters, and that another wine with 2% residual sugar could well taste dry to most tasters. It all depends on the acid and pH. To illustrate the problems and define the wines for winemakers and marketers, IRF has technical guidelines that it will publish and make available to the press and public. More importantly it will be sent to winemakers so they can use the information to properly categorize their wines. IRF, a private, not-for-profit organization, was formally created last November to increase the awareness, understanding and consumption of Riesling — which is the fastest-growing of all wines except Pinot Noir in the United States. As such, the group (with members from the United States, Germany, Austria, Alsace, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa 12

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and elsewhere) aims to create cooperative image building for Riesling and to assist Riesling producers and trade associations. The Riesling Taste Profile puts forth recommended guidelines that IRF thinks may be helpful in making wine consumers much more comfortable buying a bottle of Riesling. The program is entirely voluntary, and IRF believes that over time most Riesling producers will use the system. As much as the sweetness guide is aimed at potential Riesling buyers, there is another reality. The same sort of dilemma faces those who are likely buyers of Gewürztraminer, Chenin Blanc and even such grapes as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Albariño. They will peruse a wine list or shelf and ask, “How sweet is that wine?” In fact, if I have never heard of the producer of a wine, I will ask the same question! It would seem logical that any producer of white wine that’s likely to be slightly sweet (or more than slightly) would want the consumer to know how sweet it is (no apologies to Jackie Gleason). Imagine the problems: A Pinot Gris producer has a slightly sweet style of the wine that appeals to his regular customers, many of whom are those who visit his tasting room and buy the wine for use minutes later at his picnic tables under the trees adjacent to the winery. Such use justifies keeping the level of the wine slightly sweet; many tasting room visitors like sweeter wines. However, because of the high cost of gasoline, visitors to this man’s tasting room decline. With fewer buyers at the tasting room, the winery has more Pinot Gris to sell than it once had, so it decides to sell the excess wine at retail. But the first-time retail consumer doesn’t like the sweeter style, and the wine has no other identifier to alert those who might like such a wine. Use of the IRF’s Riesling Taste Profile – a small chart with the four key words on it along with an arrow pointing to the approximate sweetness level – would go a long way to making many white wines that much more understandable to those who need to know whether the wine is dry, slightly sweet, picnic-sweet or even sweeter than that. I’m personally hopeful that the sweetness guidelines will be more widely used than just for Riesling. But for its intended purpose, it should help spur Riesling sales in the United States first and eventually around the world. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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14 Market Grapevine

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market grapevine BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Felicitous fall feasting Each issue, Braiden Rex-Johnson matches four Pacific Northwest wines with fresh regional ingredients.

he arrival of fall is a felicitous time when Northwest cooks head back to their kitchens to welcome the season’s bounty of Dungeness crab and shellfish; game meats, pork and beef; hearty greens; walnuts and hazelnuts; apples and pears. Our felicitous fall feast begins with Blue Cheese Mussels, a recipe from Pacific Northwest Wining & Dining (Wiley, 2007) that’s a signature dish at Voilà! Bistro in Seattle. Begin by adding one-quarter cup each of good-quality blue cheese (crumbled), heavy cream and dry white wine to a stockpot, along with six tablespoons of chopped white onion and a dash of salt and pepper. Bring just to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and add two pounds of Penn Cove or Mediterranean mussels (scrubbed and debearded). Cover and cook four to six minutes, shaking the pan occasionally to redistribute the mussels. Remove the opened mussels to a bowl and continue cooking two to four minutes, or until all the bivalves open. Arrange the mussels in a large serving bowl and pour on the sauce. Serve the mussels with Sawtooth Winery 2005 Merlot ($13) from Idaho’s Snake River Valley. With big berry aromas and flavors of dark cherries and currants (cassis!) and hints of leather, this supple, long-finishing wine makes a mighty match with the earthy mussels and bold blue-cheese sauce. Spinach Salad with Warm Apple Vinaigrette and Hazelnuts, adapted from 365 Main-Course Salads (HarperCollins Publishers, 1997), is a hearty second course. Make it by cooking eight slices of bacon until crispy. Pour off all but two tablespoons of the fat from the skillet, add one medium onion (chopped) and cook until slightly softened. Add one-and-one-half cups of apple juice and two tablespoons of cider vinegar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the liquid reduces to one-half cup. Remove from the heat and whisk in two tablespoons of olive oil and one tablespoon of Dijon mustard. In a large bowl, combine eight cups of torn fresh spinach and two tart apples (diced). Drizzle on the warm dressing and toss until the spinach wilts. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the cooked, crumbled bacon and one-quarter cup of chopped, toasted hazelnuts. Immediately serve the warm salad with Morrison Lane 2005 Cinsault (Walla Walla Valley, $27). Although deep rosé-like in color, the wine is medium in body, displaying intense raspberry flavors along with a hint of spice. It will stand up nicely to, but not overwhelm, the bridge ingredients in the salad: bacon, hazelnuts, apples, Dijon mustard. Verjus-Glazed Pork Chops, a recipe from Hilda Jones — co-proprietor with husband, Earl, of Abacela Vineyards & Winery in southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley — forms our 14

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fall feast entrée. Begin by dusting four pork chops with panko (Japanese) bread crumbs. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, sauté the chops until golden brown on both sides and just cooked through. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Deglaze the pan with three-quarters of a cup of verjus (VEHR-zhoo), a k a verjuice, an acidic juice made from unripe grapes that’s similar to lemon juice or vinegar, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. When the verjus begins to thicken, remove the pan from the heat, pour the glaze over the meat and sprinkle lightly with kosher or sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and chopped flat-leaf parsley. Serve the chops with Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Dolcetto (Southern Oregon, $20). This hearty wine exhibits a boatload of ripe fruit (berries, plums, dark cherries) in a deep, concentrated style. It’s aged in neutral-oak barrels, which allows the character of this Piedmontese grape (whose name translates as “little sweet one”) to really shine through. Our fall feast finishes with Pear Brûlée, a recipe from the Pear Harvest Cookbook (Pear Bureau Northwest). Begin by microwaving one-and-one-quarter cups of milk at high (100%) power for two minutes or until heated through. Beat two eggs with three tablespoons sugar, then beat in the milk. Microwave, covered, on high for one-and-onehalf minutes. Beat 30 seconds. Microwave on high one minute longer. Beat once more and microwave 30-60 seconds. The mixture will be slightly thickened and foamy. If the mixture looks curdled, beat until smooth. Stir in two tablespoons of orange-flavored liqueur. Refrigerate until chilled. Meanwhile, brush two Bartlett pears (cored, peeled and sliced) with orange juice. Arrange the slices in four microwave-safe and ovenproof ramekins; cover with plastic wrap. Microwave two dishes on HIGH 5 to 7 minutes or until the pears are tender. Repeat with the remaining dishes. Places dishes on a baking sheet. Spoon the milk mixture around the pears. Sprinkle with six tablespoons raw sugar or packed brown sugar and grated orange peel. Broil until the sugar melts and browns. Pair the brûlée with the irrepressible Domaine Ste. Michelle NV Frizzante (Columbia Valley, $14), a slightly sweet sparkler that will tickle your senses with its pear and candy-apple notes, elegant bubbles and refreshing finish. Frothy Frizzante forms a felicitous finish for any fall feast! Braiden Rex-Johnson has been writing about Pacific Northwest food and wine for 18 years. She is the author of seven books, including Pacific Northwest Wining and Dining (Wiley, 2007). Read her blog, Northwest Notes, online at NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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16 Swirl Sniff Sip

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swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Tongue-twisting varieties are cool In the past few years I’ve noticed several varieties of wines with names I’d never heard of — Siegerrebe, Kerner, Ortega and Ehrenfelser, to name a few — are being produced in our region’s wineries. Why and where do they come from?

rom the varieties you’ve listed, I have to guess that you’ve been wine touring in the Puget Sound-San Juan Islands area in Washington, the Victoria-Vancouver areas in British Columbia and/or the Okanagan-Okanogan valleys of B.C. and Washington. The four types of wine grapes you’ve listed, plus several more, all are among the grape varieties that growers started experimenting with in the Northwest as long as 20 or 25 years ago in an effort to find grapes that would thrive and ripen in cool-climate areas where winters can be harsh or where the count of really warm summer days is measured in weeks, not months. The predominant grapes that historically thrived in the wine grape-growing areas of northern Europe have long been Riesling and Gewürztraminer. But there are many long-established other varieties that have been grown for centuries in areas such as the Alsace, plus a number of new varieties produced by crossbreeding these and other varieties over the last 100 years or so. Siegerrebe, Kerner, Ortega and Ehrenfelser all are crossbreeds. Siegerrebe comes from crossing Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer, and the best examples tend to produce highly aromatic, spicy wines with aromas of pears, peaches and apples and a load of crisp fruit flavors. In Wine Press Northwest’s 2007 Platinum Judging, the 2006 Siegerrebe from San Juan Vineyards immediately grabbed the four judges’ attention — yours truly included — and was voted a unanimous Double Platinum. Since only four wines of the 258 gold-medal-winning wines entered in the competition won unanimous acclaim from the judges, it clearly was impressive. In addition, it was made nicely dry and would pair well with scallops, crab cakes or prawns. I’ve since drunk a bottle of 2004 Siegerrebe from Blue Grouse Estate Winery in the Cowichan Valley of Vancouver Island that also was excellent. It was not so dry as the San Juan version and seemed to show aromas a little more like Muscat. Anyway, my limited exposure to this grape, which is grown in only a handful of Northwest vineyards, indicates it has plenty of promise. Kerner is a cross between Riesling and Trollinger, an even more obscure German red wine grape. Again, my exposure is limited to wines made in British Columbia on Vancouver Island and at Gray Monk Estate Winery in the Okanagan Valley. The Gray Monk 2006 Late Harvest Kerner won a Platinum 16

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award in the 2007 Wine Press Northwest competition and also was voted the best dessert wine at the 2008 Northwest Wine Summit, held at Mount Hood, Ore., last spring. Both times, it absolutely beguiled the judges. I thought it was the second best white wine at the Mount Hood competition, where judges gave it two rather confusing honors — best dessert wine and then only a silver medal! With just 1.6 percent residual sugar, it delivered flavors of green apples and a nicely complex nose with apples and peaches. The other Kerner I’ve tasted recently was from Vancouver Island. It was made drier, was a bit over the hill and likely started out with rather less charm than the Gray Monk. Ortega is a cross between Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe. It’s highly aromatic, as one would expect, since it has elements of Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer from the Siegerrebe and from Müller-Thurgau’s Riesling ancestry. Though some have contended Müller-Thurgau was a RieslingSylvaner cross, more recent research indicates it was created by a self-pollinating Riesling vine, according to The New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia. Whatever its origins, it makes a spicy, fragrant wine that’s a promising blend of the characters typical to grapes grown in Northern Europe. Once again, the examples I’ve tasted have been from British Columbia. None has yet matched up to the fine Siegerrebes and Kerners I’ve encountered. Ehrenfelser is generally counted as one of the best of the German crossbreeds. This combination of Riesling and Sylvaner is not at all uncommon in British Columbia. When I’ve tasted it blind, it’s very difficult to separate from its Riesling ancestors. Tour the wineries of the Okanagan, and chances are you’ll find an Ehrenfelser for sale. One of my favorites from a 2007 tour was Mt. Boucherie’s 2004 Summit Reserve, which won a gold medal at the Northwest Wine Summit in 2006. The taster can expect to discover orange blossom and floral aromas and nice citrus and an array of juicy stone fruit elements in a well-made Ehrenfelser. Wine word: must

After our flings with French in several past columns, I thought a little four-letter word that comes from Old English might be a welcome change. Must is the juice pressed from freshly harvested grapes or the partially fermented juice that’s still evolving into wine and usually includes seeds, grape skins and pulp. Since it’s harvest time in the Northwest, it seems like an especially apt word for our fall edition. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 38 years, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 30 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Do you have a question for Ken? E-mail it to krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

18 Teri Citterman

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urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

The girl with a golden glass

f Dr. No says The World is Not Enough and The Man with the Golden Gun, Goldfinger or Goldeneye didn’t see A View to a Kill, which was really meant For Your Eyes Only ... well that’s a lot of responsibility, let alone if you’re going to Live and Let Die just to Die another Day, is the hassle really worth it? The answer is obvious, if you have a license to kill. “Bond, James Bond,” the master of the three-ring circus, the winner at the high-stakes casino and unrivaled luck with the ladies. And speaking of ladies, like wine, they all seem to have a few things in common: good body, long legs and strong finishes. Grab a glass and let’s see how these measure up against the beauties. Out of the gates, it’s O as in omnipotent, odalisque and Octopussy, of course (inappropriately nicknamed by daddy, oh my!) O Wines 2006 Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills, is creamy and gorgeous and commands a chic-loving army of acrobatic warriors (down, boys, down). Exerting orange zest and white nectarine, this wine is supple, yet strong — able to maneuver a figure-four leg lock without batting an eyelash. Throw a knife in its way, and it will catch it and hurl it back. With firm acid in buttery pastry dough, this wine finishes with a swirling tassel of vanilla taffy. And look no further than Woodhouse Family Cellars 2004 Kennedy Shah Cabernet Franc to find the precision of a pilot and the purr of a Persian. This wine displays true adulation in its deep dark ruby brilliance. “My name is Pussy Galore,” it exclaims, and we awestruck drinkers must be dreaming. It is precious and peaceful, while long sensual strides drip slowly down the glass. Bond proclaims, “A woman of many parts, Pussy,” and a purple haze of violet unfolds into a mouthful of red spice, ripe plum and raspberry. This wine knows the exactitude of a Flying Circus and seeks the elegance of style and grace. While everything it touches turns to gold, listen closely to the hum of the engine — or is it the purr of the poised cougar-pilot?

Wrap it up in a blue box, Betz Family Winery 2004 Clos De Betz, Columbia Valley, is Tiffany Case and full of surprises. Upon opening, it may start out light like a blonde. But over time, it transforms into a glistening brunette with luscious layers of dark cherry, raspberry and cocoa powder. Though I don’t recommend breakfast with Tiffany, this wine will take you deep into the evening with practiced skill and focused balance. Truth be told, Diamonds Are Forever, and so are the silky smooth tannins on this baby. So lay it down and say good night, “good-bye and good luck.” And while diamonds cut glass, Erin Glenn Vineyards NV Tantrum Red, Columbia Valley, provides Plenty of punch from a blend of Pinot Noir, Merlot and Barbera. This full-bodied wine with its 18

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properly proportioned curves shows ripe crystal cherry and some spiciness on top. “Hi, I’m Plenty,” it declares with a smile. Eyes dart downward, “But of course you are.” Tantrum is named for the winemaker’s four daughters, and one can only assume Plenty O’Toole was named for her father. Though she’s not the brightest tool in the shed, this wine offers simple fun and lady luck. If you handle those cubes like a monkey handles coconuts, you’re sure to hit snake eyes and be terrifically satisfied. Like Bond himself, Xenia Onatopp enjoys a spirited ride as much as the next girl. In fact, Dalla Vina 2006 Syrah, Columbia Valley, is the “next girl.” On the approach, this wine drives fast and gets close. “That’s close enough,” says Bond, but not for what this wine has in mind. It’s a dark glass of juiciness, full of earth, cedar and plum. Feminine mystique offsets its animal magnetism. But it smells the blood of steak served rare, and with legs as sharp as scissors, you can count on the acid to create harmony. It’s a lively lover of boys and their toys, showing black dried fruit and a subtle hint of coffee. Bon appetit, my darling! And speaking of a spirited ride, undeniably, one of the sexiest Bond Girls, Honey Ryder is a force to be reckoned with — as is Russell Creek 2002 Winemakers Select Merlot, Columbia Valley. “What?” you exclaim. “How can a red wine be a honey in a white bikini?” Here’s how: This red sizzles off the charts on the sexyful scale. A string of smooth, dark chocolate penetrates the rich flavors of blackberry, black cherry and leather strap. Saying no to this illustrious wine specimen is simply out of the question — and under ideal conditions, chains may be required, and whips are always optional. Finally, Nicholas Cole 2002 Camille, Columbia Valley, is a kissable blend of red loveliness. Entrée one, Miss Kissy Suzuki, another white bikini clad Bond girl ready for action. This wine is liquid oxygen with cherry Sencha tannins and Ninja reflexes. It breathes out sparks of chocolate, blackberry and blueberry. Like a volcanic eruption, it has enough sparkle to brighten the darkest of days especially if it is one of your last. I invite you to remember, you Only Live Twice for a reason. So on one of those nearing nights when the air has properly cooled, pop yourself a bag of dinner and pour something fabulous! Cuddle up with Mr. Netflix and let the fun begin! Cheers! With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is a contributing writer to the Puget Sound Business Journal, the Portland Business Journal and Northwest Best Places Travel Books. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a weekend in oliver, b.c.

The unheralded wine capital of Canada BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

Oliver serves as the “Wine Capital of Canada,” home of the Golden Mile and gateway to the Okanagan Valley. And yet, this humble town along Highway 97 might be British Columbia wine country’s least appreciated. However, the controversial and pending construction along the Okanagan River of what is being billed as Canada’s first “wine village” would dramatically change the face of a sleepy downtown. In 1921, B.C. premier “Honest” John Oliver arranged for an irrigation canal as part of a package to attract and assist World War I veterans. The city has grown to a population of 4,400, largely because of its acclaimed orchard fruit. The claim as Wine Capital of Canada comes from the concentration of wineries and vineyards, the highest in the

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country. There are more than 120 wineries in the province. You can reach more than 30 of them within minutes of Oliver. Nearly half of the province’s 7,500 acres of vineyards are planted around Oliver, including the famed Black Sage Bench. It is one of the most productive in B.C. and part of what geologists refer to as the Great Basin Desert. Burrowing Owl Estate Winery is in the middle of the Black Sage Bench — a vineyard area with temperatures beyond 100 Fahreneit. Wineries: The number in the Oliver/Osoyoos area has reached 30. The most established include Black Hills (co-owned by actor Jason Priestly), Burrowing Owl, Fairview, Gehringer Brothers, Golden Mile, Hester Creek, Inniskillin, Nk’mip, Jackson-Triggs and Tinhorn Creek. Jackson-Triggs opened its stylish gallery in 2007.

One of the early wineries, Domaine Combret, has changed hands and now is called Antelope Ridge. Among the new operations is the boutique Le Vieux Pin, named Wine Press Northwest’s 2008 B.C. Winery to Watch. Among the most remarkable stories in the Canadian wine industry is that of the Osoyoos Indian Band — owners of Nk’Mip Cellars. Pronounced “in-kameep,” it is the first winery on the continent that is owned and operated by aboriginal people. This year marks the 40th anniversary of Inkameep Vineyard, and the band controls more than 1,100 acres of vines — a quarter of the total in the Okanagan Valley. Lodging: The closure of the Southwind Inn leaves Oliver without a budget motel. There are a number of B&Bs in the area, as well as the posh new guest house at

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Burrowing Owl. Osoyoos has motels, cottages and B&Bs ringing the lake, but Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa is a destination with Nk’Mip Cellars, the acclaimed Passatempo Restaurant and Sonora Dunes Golf Course. Food: Toasted Oak is a dining destination and features a long list of B.C. wines. Outdoor seating is available and features overhead misters. And the former firehouse also is home to one of the best wine shops in the Okanagan Valley. (Editor’s note: Starting Sept. 1, Toasted Oak is closed Sundays and Mondays through the winter.) Best of India should not be overlooked. Cock & Bull Cappuccino Bar serves up tasty gourmet breakfast burritos. Burrowing Owl’s bustling restaurant is a worthy luncheon stop. Osoyoos gives Yanks a last chance at Tim Horton donuts before crossing the 49th parallel and hearing the border guard tell you, “Welcome home.”

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Tinhorn Creek Vineyards features a demonstration vineyard and an entry point for the Golden Mile Hiking Trail.

As of June 1, 2009, a valid passport is required for re-entry into the U.S. Anyone with a DUI conviction in the U.S. is not allowed into Canada. There are restrictions about taking wine across the border.

More info: The Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association site is oliver.totabc.com. ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press

Northwest.

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activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N

Petrol, politics and global climate change are dominating headlines during the harvest of this 2008 vintage. Heck, the price of gas may even end up determining the next President of the United States. I’d just as soon cast a vote for one of my favorite Seattle-based bands — Presidents of the United States, a k a POTUS. I’ve partied with the sister of one of the band members, and I think I remember that she likes Northwest wine. Depending upon who wins that election, British Columbia may become even more appealing. The wines are delicious; we have subscribers above the 49th parallel, and Canadians still let Americans into their country for some reason. Too bad my wife and I can’t afford to live out the rest of our days at the Sooke Harbour House and drink off Sinclair Philip’s wine list — the best one in the province. In Canada, Election Day may be Oct. 14. In the U.S., we know it will Nov. 4. Will you be raising a glass in celebration or commiseration? Just be careful about asking someone if they’d prefer a red.

AgriVino again in operation. Oregon’s much-publicized AgriVino Wine Center (Summer 2008 issue) opened in May, remained open under protest, then closed in July. Well, Todd Steele, former AgriVino GM, purchased AgriVino’s high-tech equipment from John Stuart of Abbey Road Farm and re-opened the Carlton facility on Aug. 21 in accordance with Oregon Liquor Control Commission guidelines. In Oregon and Washington, the server must be the one to push the button on the Enomatic wine dispensing system. (Such is not the case in British Columbia, and Kelowna’s Rotten Grape 22

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Wine Bar & Bistro is set to have the public serve themselves via the Enomatic). “The long-term plan will be to move the machines, which I am purchasing, to Portland and build a wine bar/retailer where we will offer a much wider variety of wines by the taste and glass,” Steele said. “I am anticipating having around 70 wines by the taste/glass.” Visit agrivino.com to see what is being poured when, and where.

Walk the streets of Wenatchee with wine. The Wenatchee Downtown Association welcomes wine lovers Sept. 20 for its annual Taste of the Harvest. Wine from 10 regional wineries will be sampled from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. for $15, which includes another glass for your collection. Among the festivities is live music, a car show, art exhibits, cooking demos and activities for children. Featured wineries include Bella Terrazza, Cave B, Chateau Faire Le Pont, Fielding Hills, Jones of Washington, Martin-Scott, Saint Laurent, Stemilt Creek and White Heron. Call 509-622-0059 or go to wendowntown.org.

More lessons to be learned from Big Harry. Earlier this year, Harry McWatters resigned as president of Sumac Ridge Estate Winery in Summerland, British Columbia. This fall, he established his Okanagan Wine Academy in Penticton. A series of deaths in his family forced McWatters to postpone the debut of his one-week sessions until spring 2009. He refers to them as a “one-week boot camp for wine enthusiasts.” It will mean time in vineyards and tours of wineries. Expect to “kick some dirt” on the famed Black Sage Bench.

Four trips have been scheduled, including one from B.C. to Baja, California. Call 250-493-1495 or go to okanaganwineacademy.com for more information.

A flyover of wine country. Here’s an especially exciting way to get a bird’s eye view of vineyards and wineries in Oregon’s North Willamette Valley. Precision Aviation in Newberg offers deluxe wine tours. The Chehalem Wine Tour is three hours long and includes tasting drop-ins at Aramenta, Cherry Hill and Domaine Serene. The Willamette Wine Tour spans five hours and adds Penner-Ash and WillaKenzie. Flights are made in the six-passenger Eurocopter EC130 helicopter or the sporty three-passenger MD500. Expect to pay $400 to $700 depending upon the package and the chopper of choice. Tasting fees are included. For more information, call 800-55GOFLY or visit FlyPrecision.com.

A helping hand for Idaho’s workers. Ron Bitner, a Canyon County kid, graduated from Albertson College in 1968. Forty years later, the owner of nearby Bitner Vineyards continues to give back to what is now the College of Idaho. Oct. 4 marks the 8th annual Taste of the Harvest, and Bitner, Davis Creek, Koenig, Ste. Chapelle, Sawtooth and Williamson will pour their wines at this celebration of food and music. More than 1,000 people gather each year at this afternoon event, and all proceeds fund scholarships for first-generation students of agricultural workers. Cost is $15 for adults, $10 for students/seniors and $5 for children under 12. Tickets are sold at the door. For more information, call 208-4595011 or visit collegeofidaho.edu. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Rootstock, can you dig it? The Naramata Bench Wineries Association stages a two-part celebration defined as “Naramata Style” within the two Saturdays of the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival. It’s called Rootstock and spotlights “roving artists,” dance groups and other performance arts at some of participating wineries in the 22-member association. Dates are Oct. 4 and Oct. 11. This event, on arguably the most picturesque setting for wine touring in the Pacific Northwest, promises to be as wild and funky as the limited edition posters produced for the NBWA. For more information, visit naramatabench.com. The OFWF runs Oct. 2-12. Go to owfs.com for more information on the grandest celebration of wine in the Northwest.

Chocolate god dips into Portland. One perk about this job is serving as a professional wine judge, and the biggest plum is working for Bob Fraser and Ray Johnson at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. Included in thank you bag are Recchiuti Confections. I love the Fleur de Sel Caramels. So this seminar at Foster & Dobbs Authentic Foods in Portland caught my eye. On Oct. 11, Michael Recchiuti of San Francisco will conduct a culinary class called, “Chocolate & Terroir.” The class takes a look at the dark history and is “led by a man whose chocolate confections have been on the leading edge of the chocolate revolution.” The package includes a tasting of several single-source chocolates and the effects of terroir. He also will sign copies of his book Chocolate Obsessions. Reservations required. Cost is $20. Call Foster & Dobbs at 503-284-1157 or www.fosteranddobbs.com.

Enjoy getting these crabs. It is said that Dungeness crab is best to eat in months that contain an “r,” which explains why October is the month of the Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival Tour of North Olympic Wine Country. Participating wineries will welcome

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W I N E C O U N T RY guests Oct. 11-12. That weekend comes during the busiest time of year for these folks, but winemakers will take time to explain what they are doing. Participating wineries include Black Diamond, Camaraderie, FairWinds, Harbinger, Lost Mountain, Olympic Cellars and Sorensen.

Are you experienced? The Seattle Seahawks are playing in San Francisco on Oct. 26. That explains why the inaugural Seattle Food and Wine Experience is set for Oct. 25-26 at Qwest Field Pavilion. It’s billed as an international event for wine, but a quick glance shows verbal commitments from Columbia, Covey Run, Precept Brands and Joe Dobbes. Cost is a mere $59, which includes wine/food tastings and entry into the cooking school demos. The array of participating restaurants gives this new event immediate credibility — The Herbfarm, Salish Lodge, Campagne and Dahlia Lounge. Event organizers say patrons will be able to relax on sustainable furniture. Proceeds benefit Heroes for the Homeless, a 2-year-old organization assisting folks sleeping on the sidewalk and under overpasses in the Seattle area. For information, visit seattlefoodandwineexperience.com.

Help finding treasure in Idaho. The Treasure Valley Wine Society features events that focus on wineries in the state and often holds tastings with Idaho wineries. The site lists wine shops in southern Idaho, and the quarterly newsletter from President Bob Young highlights industry news. They even facilitate the Idaho Wine Festival each August. Board meetings occur on the first Tuesday of each month, but all members are welcome to attend. General membership events are held the third Tuesday of each month. Their blog is fed by members. Learn more by visiting treasurevalleywinesociety.org. What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com.

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events

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September 27 Umpqua Wine & Music Experience, Roseburg, Ore. A country music concert benefits scholarships in Umpqua Community College’s new viticulture and enology program. Call 541-673-5323 or go to umpquavalleywineries.org. 27-28 Catch the Crush, Tri-Cities, Wash. Annual harvest celebration. Call 866360-6611 or go to columbiavalleywine.com.

October 2-12 Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. More than 150 events over 10 days. Call 250-861-6654 or go to thewinefestivals.com. 1-31 Savor the Art, Yakima Valley, Wash. Artists are paired with Yakima Valley and Red Mountain wineries. Call 800-258-7270 or go to wineyakimavalley.org. 4-5, 11-12 Lake Chelan Crush, Lake Chelan, Wash. Ten days of a “berry to bottle” fest in this emerging region. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com 8 Taste of the Harvest, Caldwell, Idaho. This College of Idaho event funds scholarships for migrant workers’ children. Call 208-459-5011 or go to collegeofidaho.edu. 10 Entwine, Walla Walla, Wash. This auction at the Marcus Whitman Hotel supports arts, wine and education. Call 509-527-4253 or go to wallawallawine.com. 18 PONCHO International Wine Auction for the Arts, Seattle. An annual fundraiser for Seattle area arts organizations. Call 206-623-6233 or go to poncho.org. 25 Food, Wine & Wishes, Portland. Portland Art Museum assists Oregon’s MakeA-Wish Foundation. Call 503-292-2280 or go to orwish.org.

November 1 Taste of the Peninsula, Port Angeles, Wash. Second-year event features Olympic Peninsula wines. Call 360-452-9244 or go to ccfymca.org. 6-10 Whistler’s Cornucopia, Whistler, B.C. Whistler’s annual extravaganza of Northwest wine and cuisine. Go to whistlercornucopia.com. 7 Epicurean Delight, Spokane, Wash. This annual gala benefits the Inland Northwest Blood Center. Call 509-232-4567 or go to epicureandelight.org. 7 Walla Walla Valley Wine Tasting and Auction, Walla Walla, Wash. The 27th annual fundraiser for Planned Parenthood of Walla Walla. Call 509-540-4706. 7-8 ¡Salud! Dundee and Portland. This annual Pinot Noir auction benefits Oregon’s vineyard workers. Call 503-681-1850 or go to saludauction.org. 7-8 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Pasco, Wash. One of the largest wine festivals in the Northwest. Call 509-547-4849 or go to tricitieswinefestival.com. 8-9 Passport Wine Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The Olympic Peninsula Wineries’ annual fall wine-touring event. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org. 15 Northwest Wine & Food Festival, Portland. Third-year event returns to Memorial Coliseum. Call 800-422-0251 or go to nwfoodandwinefestival.com. 15 Seaside Downtown Wine Walk, Seaside, Ore. Seaside businesses pair up with regional wineries. Call 503-717-1914 or go to seasidedowntown.com. 22-23 Holiday Wine Festival, Spokane, Wash. A weekend of wine, art and food annually staged the weekend before Thanksgiving. Go to spokanewineries.net. 28-29 Thanksgiving in Wine Country, Yakima Valley, Wash. Tour Washington’s oldest wine region. Go to wineyakimavalley.org. 28-30 Wine Country Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley, Ore. The wineries of the Willamette Valley celebrate the holidays. Go to willamettewines.com.

December 6-7 St. Nicholas Day Open House, Woodinville, Wash. Woodinville wineries open their doors for this passport-style event. Go to woodinvillewinecountry.com. 6-7 Holiday Barrel Tasting, Walla Walla, Wash. Enjoy a weekend visiting the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley. Go to wallawallawine.com or call 509-526-3117. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Walla Walla airport greets faux Chateau BY M A RY H O P K I N

Two months ago, the building was a bland former Army warehouse — a carbon copy of those surrounding it. But four artists and 30 gallons of paint later, it has been transformed into a classic French-style chateau, complete with pillars and architectural moldings. The building, at the Port of Walla Walla Regional Airport’s Industrial Park, will be the home of Le Chateau, a new winery venture by Dick and Diane Hoch and Bob and Crista Whitelatch, of Claar Cellars. Bruno Corneaux, the French-born winemaker at Claar Cellars in Pasco, Wash., also is Le Chateau’s winemaker. Dick Hoch said the 10,000-square-foot building they leased from the port was perfect for the new winery that’s scheduled open in October. There’s plenty of room for production, barrel storage and bottling, and it’s heavily insulated to stay cool inside during the hot summers. And it’s one of the first buildings that visitors see as the drive past the airport entrance and into the industrial park that is home to more than 20 wineries. A problem was that Le Chateau was surrounded by similar less distinctive warehouses. So Hoch began sketching his idea on a napkin and never had any doubt that his daughter, Christine Barnes, could pull it off. “I recall my father sketching triangles and pillars onto a cocktail napkin and asking if it was possible to paint the exterior of the warehouse to look like a grand chateau, similar to what you might see in the Bordeaux region of France,” Barnes said. Barnes, 54, who owns Graphics West in Kennewick, Wash., jumped at the chance to swap her computer mouse for a paintbrush and work on a canvas 25 feet tall by 100 feet wide. “Had I been 20 years younger, I would have said, ‘No way! This is going to be too much work,” she said. “And had I been 20 years older, there would have been no way I could have physically performed the day-to-day rigors of climbing 26

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Unusual painting turns a warehouse into Le Chateau. (Photos courtesy Christine Barnes)

up and down 20 feet of scaffolding or endured the grueling heat of an Eastern Washington summer.” Getting the vision on paper was easy, she said. It took only three days to create the design in the computer program Photoshop. Her time estimate of the actual project was a bit off, though. “Initially, I thought it was only going to take about three weeks,” she said. It took more than two months. Barnes got help from Adrian Snowden — owner of T & L Office Supply in Kennewick — and Walla Walla Community College art students John Leone of Kennewick and Kris Schultz of College Place. The team employed an art technique called trompe l’oeil, using shadows and realistic imagery to create a 3-D optical illusion that tricks the eye into believing objects is real, instead of painted. From the front of the building, it appears you can walk between the columns and the building. And it’s difficult to distinguish the actual windows from the painted ones. Snowden’s airbrush expertise, which acounted for about 60 percent of the work, was invaluable, Barnes said. “You need a team with enthusiasm

and people who buy in and take ownership. Adrian really did that,” she said. Snowden, who has been using an airbrush for 20 years, said the building was definitely the biggest canvas he’s had ever worked on, and he was able to share his expertise with the students, who stepped up to get the job done. “There was blood, bruises and tears,” he said. “The wind would blow so hard the scaffolding would shake and we’d have to all get down.” Completing the mural was a challenge, but all are happy with the result. “The guys and I have been amused by the number of cars that have slowed or come to a complete stop with drivers wide-eyed, doing the classic doubletake,” Barnes said. Jim Kuntz, the port’s executive director, points out many of the wineries in the industrial park have done a great job of sprucing up the interiors of the ‘40s-era warehouses. “Most people take them over for the utilitarian purposes, but it’s difficult to do anything really imaginative on the outside,” he said. “They are the first to really take the time to make it look interesting and different.” W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Lake Chelan gets closer to AVA in Washington The federal government has moved the Lake Chelan American Viticultural Area one step closer to reality, as it has opened the proposal for comments, which can be submitted until Oct. 14. Washington has nine AVAs: Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley, Walla Walla Valley, Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills, Wahluke Slope, Columbia Gorge, Rattlesnake Hills and Puget Sound. One proposed AVA, Snipes Mountain, is in the pipeline ahead of Chelan. And there is a potential controversy for the proposed Lake Chelan AVA. Under federal rules, a winery whose name includes the name of an AVA must receive at least 85% of its grapes from that AVA. This was an issue in Oregon with two AVAs: Eola-Amity Hills (which originally was to be called Eola Hills) and Chehalem Mountains. It’s an issue right now in Napa with the proposed Calistoga AVA. Wineries with such names earn a “grandfather” clause — essentially a government pass — if they were in business prior to July 7, 1986. No fewer than five wineries use “Chelan” in their names. There’s also the issue of Tsillan Cellars, whose name is pronounced “Chelan” but is spelled differently. All of these wineries opened in the past few years, so none would get a grandfather clause to use more than 15% of their grapes from outside of the proposed AVA. Not many grapes are yet grown in the Chelan area, which is within the greater Columbia Valley AVA. Those vineyards in production tend to be grown by wineries for their own use. There are 13 wineries and 150 acres of grapes planted in the proposed appellation, which is 24,040 acres in size (compared with 11 million acres in the Columbia Valley and 4,040 for Red Mountain. Alan Busacca, who put the proposal together for the Chelan growers, has a history of success doing so. He shepherded through the Wahluke Slope AVA and did work on the Horse Heaven W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Hills AVA. He’s also done extensive studies on and work for the Red Mountain, Walla Walla and Columbia Gorge AVAs. Public comments made be made and

scene at www.regulations.gov or sent by letter to Director, Regulations and Rulings, Division, Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, P.O. Box 14412, Washington, DC 20044–4412.

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Organic Washington winery gets greener BY M A RY H O P K I N

Bill Powers has always been ahead of his time. Twenty years ago, the founder of Badger Mountain Vineyards in Kennewick, Wash., started raising the first organic grapes in Washington’s Columbia Valley — long before organic became a buzz word and marketing tool. “They all thought I was crazy,” said Powers, who owns the vineyard and winery with partner Tim DeCook. “Except Dr. (Walter) Clore. He was the only one here who encouraged me.” Two decades later, Powers, 81, still puts an environmentally friendly foot forward to save energy and create a better business model. He’s outfitted his Badger Mountain tasting room, once an old farm shop, with solar panels. The three-kilowatt solar panels will provide most of the energy needed for the tasting room. Powers doesn’t consider himself a trendsetter; he’s a farmer who raised apples in the Othello area in the early ’50s, when DDT was the pesticide of choice. He sold the apple orchards and moved to Kennewick to grow grapes on the south slope of Badger Mountain in 1982 and knew he wanted to farm without a bunch of chemicals. During a trip to California, he met vineyard owners who were growing organically. He had his answer. “But I wasn’t going to go broke doing it. I figured I’d try it and see if it didn’t work out,” said Powers, who talks with traces of a warm Southern drawl, acquired from childhood in Oklahoma. Powers made the organic transition in 1987 and a few years later, Badger Mountain became the first Washington state vineyard to be certified organic. Powers still works in the vineyards, while his son, Greg Powers, makes the organic and sulfite-free wines. And he still cares about the future of the winery and making it better, which is why he researched the solar panels. It came down to common sense, he said. 28

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Winery owner Bill Powers stands beside a power inverter, which converts solar power into usable alternating current. (Photo by Paul T. Erickson)

He gets a 30 percent tax credit on the $30,000 he spent on the project, and his energy bills will drop. And he’ll receive a state incentive of 15 cents per kilowatt hour for the life of the panels, which are guaranteed for 20 years. When the panels make more energy than the 900-square-foot building uses, the power is returned to the grid. Meters connected to a solar inverter on the backside of the building keep track of how much power is being created, how much is being used, and the “net” amount going onto the grid. “We figure it will take a dozen years before it really starts paying,” said Mickey Dunne, the winery’s sales manager. But the smaller system is simply a test plot, Powers added. “If this works out, we’d like to do one on our production facility,” he said. The production area, where his son makes about 70,000 cases of Powers and Badger Mountain wines each year, as well as 40,000 cases of custom wine, sits behind the tasting room. It uses far more power than the cozy tasting room and would be a much bigger investment. “We couldn’t do it without the tax incentives,” Powers said.

Solar isn’t the only alternative energy being used at Badger Mountain. A few years ago, after reading about homegrown biodiesel, Powers began to collect used cooking oil from restaurants and make biodiesel for the tractors. “We run a route every week and pick up 200 gallons of oil,” Dunne said. Powers said the biodiesel costs him less than the cost of farm diesel. The winery also recycles all its garbage. It’s just the way they do things at Badger Mountain, he said. High fuel and energy prices and concerns about global warming have created a trend toward more eco-friendly living. Tax incentives in Washington and Oregon have spurred more interest in solar power, said Jonathan Lewis, owner of Seraphim Energy in Goldendale, Wash. “We are doing a lot more residential panels,” said Lewis, who installed Power’s panels. “For people who are retiring, it’s part of their dream to be more sustainable and more independent from the power company.” Depending on the energy-efficiency of the building the solar panels are added to, they can offset 10 percent to 100 percent of the power bill, he said. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Oregon’s Abacela changes winemakers Abacela Vineyards & Winery in Roseburg, Ore., has changed winemakers, announcing the promotion of Andrew Wenzl to lead winemaker on July 27. He first joined the 7,000-case winery in the Umpqua Valley in 2003 after stints at King Estate and Silvan Ridge. Wenzl graduated from Eastern Oregon University in 2000 with a science degree. Wenzl replaces B. Kiley Evans, who has since landed at Rogue Valley producer Agate Ridge Vineyard in Eagle Point, Ore. Evans graduated from University of California-Davis in 2002 and was hired as Earl Jones’ assistant at Abacela that same year. He worked as Abacela’s lead winemaker for the 2006 and 2007 vintages. Evans takes over for the retiring Will Brown in a move announced Aug. 21 by owner Kim Kinderman.

Washington predicts record grape harvest The Washington wine grape industry has estimated the 2008 crop will be 142,056 tons this fall, breaking last year’s record harvest of 127,000 tons. Crop estimates have a track record of not reaching expectations. Last year, for example, the crop estimate was 136,447 tons. Based on this, one could expect the Washington wine grape crop — the second largest in the nation after California — to top 130,000. And that’s factoring in cool spring. According to the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers, which conducts the pre-harvest crop survey, the increase in grapes is because of the abundance of new plantings. Because of higher production and labor costs, the price of wine grapes is expected to stay level or even increase this year. According to the grape growers, harvest was expected to start a week later than usual. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE VIEWS

Tracking down bargains can be a gas BY ‘ B A R G A I N ’ B O B W O E H L E R

In this unending time of increasing prices for almost everything, ol’ Bargain Bob is more relevant than ever. You have to wonder when you can buy a bottle of wine for less than a gallon of gas. If you look around, you can find some pretty tasty bargain wines. Many come from the largest wineries — outfits such as Columbia Crest, Hogue and the multifaceted Precept Brands. They offer many wines for $10 and under. Other ways to get in on a bargain is to pile on the savings by getting a volume discount. Recently, I bought six bottles at a local supermarket and received a 10 percent discount. Many of the wineries themselves will offer 10 percent — sometimes more — on case discounts of wines they have on special. Often

these wines are perfect for your everyday use when you want something to serve with lunch or dinner or to friends. Most of the bargain wines I recommend are true to the variety, tasty and generally mellow. They aren’t blockbusters or even memorable, but they can be perfectly satisfying. Pine and Post, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $5: Coffee and chocolate aromas lead to silky black currant favors. While not a huge wine, it’s very drinkable. And it won’t screw up a cheeseburger. Pine and Post, 2006 Merlot, Washington, $5: Think Rainier cherries and smooth blackberries. It’s enjoyable and would go well with lasagna. Pine and Post, 2006 Chardonnay, Washington, $5: Expressive with toasty, smoky aromas and soft apple and

pineapple flavors. How about a hamburger-based curry? Arbor Crest, 2006 Muscat Canelli, Columbia Valley, $8-$10: Enticing floral aromas combine with exotic fruity flavor make this (4 percent residual sugar) sweet treat a great sipper or match with steamed garlic mussels. Covey Run, Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, $6-$7: A bit of residual sugar at 1.3 percent. Fruity with honeysuckle aromas and peach and melon flavors. Try a herb roasted chicken. Sawtooth Winery 2005 Chardonnay, Idaho, $7-$8: Rated “Outstanding” by Wine Press Northwest, it shows perfectly balanced oak with nice creamy lemon and tropical fruit flavors. Enjoy it alongside halibut with lemon/butter sauce. BOB WOEHLER has been writing about wine since 1976.

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Mission Hill wins award for world’s best ice wine LONDON — The International Wine Challenge in London announced Sept. 1 that its trophy for “World’s Top Icewine” was won by Mission Hill Family Estate in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. Westbank winemaker John Simes won the award with his 2006 Reserve

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Riesling Ice Wine. The IWC receives 9,000 entries from 40 countries. Its panel of 400 judges includes more than 25 who are certified Masters of Wine. “The 2006 vintage was the best season we’ve had since I arrived in the valley in the early 1990s,” Simes said in a release.

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‘Bottle Shock’ fun but no documentary It is difficult to tell whether wine lovers will like Bottle Shock, the recently released film loosely based on the 1976 “Judgment of Paris” tasting. It’s beautifully filmed and is loaded with big film stars. The soundtrack, a combination of jazz and the Doobie Brothers, is superb. The story flows with

love, anger and the quest to succeed. Those with little more than a mild interest in wine will enjoy Bottle Shock immensely. However, what a lot of wine folks are getting hung up on is the historical accuracy. Here are the facts the film got right: • Napa Valley is in California.

• Paris is in France. Beyond that, let’s just say the film is filled with a lot of good storytelling. And that’s what I liked about Bottle Shock. It portrays an American wine industry just as it is emerging onto the global wine scene. It shows the difficulties related to making wine without boring non-wine geeks, and it also helps us better understand the romance of growing grapes and making wine. The problem a lot of critics had with this film was they went in thinking it would be a documentary. Hollywood doesn’t do documentaries. We’ll have to wait a couple of years to see if the rival Judgment of Paris is more true to the story. It likely will be, but I don’t know that it will be any more enjoyable than Bottle Shock. — Andy Perdue

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A Climate of Change The changing face of Northwest winemaking BY E R I C D E G E R M A H

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T â&#x20AC;˘ FA L L 2 0 0 8

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Greg Jones, professor of environmental studies at Southern Oregon University in Ashland, studies the effects of climate change on viticulture. As part of his research, he tracks temperature change and its effects on various varieties at several vineyards, including Del Rio Vineyards in Gold Hill, Ore.

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n the sought-after opinion of globetrotting Greg Jones, there is no doubt. “We are in a different place than we were 15 years ago,” he said. Global climate change is with us. “At Schloss Johannisberg in Germany where cuttings for some of the Riesling in the Northwest came from, they have a marker for the 50th-degree latitude line that used to be the northern fringe for viticulture,” Jones said. “Now, you have viticulture up to 52, 53, 54 degrees. That’s clearly happening.” This professor of environmental studies at Southern Oregon University in Ashland is viewed by many as the planet’s leading climatologist with regards to viticulture. Aside from Argentina and Chile, he’s done first-hand research in virtually every major wine-growing region in the world. Yet one of his prime examples of global-climate change is home-grown. “Go to the Willamette Valley. When some of the earliest people came to Oregon post prohibition — Richard Sommer, David Lett, Dick Erath — people in California thought they were nuts!” Jones exclaimed. “The baseline climate back then was right at the margin. You could have one good climatic year in five, six, seven, eight vintages to produce a pretty good crop, but it was a real challenge the rest of the time. If you look back at the data, it’s just hard to understand how they had the cajones to do it. “Fast-forward that to today,” he continued. “We’re talking about a place that has now eight years in 10, nine years in 10 of a good ripeable vintage. Now, there are still issues. There could be rain during harvest. There could be frost. But the base-

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different.” Trends exist. And yet winemaker Kay Simon of Chinook Wines in Prosser, Wash., points out the subtlety between the theory of global climate change and so-called global warming. “From my point of view, it’s conjecture at this point,” she said. “I haven’t done the science. That’s for the climatologists to say that this is statistically happening. It would seem that we’re having somewhat warmer harvests and seasons, and then you have a (cool) summer like this one. I can say that the winter of 1978-79 was memorable for all of us who were here then, but we’ve had some hard winters just in the last few years.” In British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, vineyard managers don’t fear the winter as much. “Even in the established vineyards, we’d have to take the first year’s growth — the single cane — and bury them because of the winters,” said Walter Gehringer of Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery in Oliver. “That isn’t being done by anyone now, and that allows for a more rapid growth in the plant. That in itself is a huge change.” No well-established viticulture region in the Northwest sees cooler temperatures than Idaho’s high-elevation Snake River Valley. Ron Bitner of Bitner Vineyards in Caldwell said whatever changes are taking place often depend on the variety, and sometimes it’s a matter of winemaking style. “I have thought about it a lot, but I planted my vineyards 27 years ago, and I still harvest Chardonnay in the third week in September,” he said. “My reds are 17 years old, and I am harvesting them a little early. My Cabernet, we harvest in early- to mid-October, and it used to be the end of October. But over the past 10 years, the degree-day accumulation hasn’t changed that much.” Site selection in the Okanagan Valley isn’t as critical as in the past. 36

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Kay Simon of Chinook Wines in Prosser, Wash.

History is being overlooked or ignored. “A lot of plantings have been done on the benches to get out of the lowlying areas and the frosts,” Gehringer said. “Now, a lot of the orchards — which were in the low-lying areas — are getting ripped out and converted to grapes. Folks already have forgotten about the frosts.”

January and February, and he made presentations to the Rogue and Umpqua wine industry groups as well as the Oregon Wine Industry Symposium. Sea surface temperatures from the North Pacific and Tropical Ocean systems indicated that the Pacific Northwest could

C L I M AT E C H A N G E , G L O B A L WA R M I N G

META-ANALYSIS BY JONES indicates a warming of 1.1 to 4.5 degrees Centigrade in wine regions by the year 2050. His “best estimate” scales that to warming by 1.7 to 2.2 degrees Centigrade with plants showing an earlier shift in their growth cycle. “Warming of this magnitude would push many existing regions to consider changing varieties or even outside of what is considered suitable today,” he tells groups, adding, “Terroirs as we know them will have to change in one way or another” Then again, there’s this cooler vintage of 2008. Jones saw it coming in

Walter Gehringer of Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery in Oliver, B.C.

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climate change tems indicated that the Pacific Northwest could expect a cold and wet spring. Why? Both the North Pacific (Pacific Decadal Oscillation with its multi-decadal swing) and the shortterm Tropical Ocean (El Niño/La Niña, a 2- to 5-year swing) were in a cold phase. The La Niña effect is cool vs. the warmer El Niño. Can the vintage recover enough to ripen? Historical data from four stations in Oregon indicates that the growing season should be enough, although far from perfect. The base temperature for vine growth is 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Growing degree-day (GDD) accumulations are determined for the standard period of April 1 to Oct. 31. The formula is the average of a day’s high and low temperatures minus 50. For example, the GDD value for a 24-hour period when the high reached 80 degrees with a low of 50 degrees is 15 units. A climate with 210 such days would give it a GDD season accumulation of 3,150 units. Jones took the degree-day accumulation values through Aug. 20 and used the station’s historical average accumulation from 1971 to 2000 to make the following projections for Oct. 31: McMinnville (2,160), Roseburg (2,740), Medford (2,960) and Milton-Freewater in the Walla Walla Valley (3,100). Jones points out that while those values will be in the lower range for the past eight years, each of the four will surpass the 1971-2000 average. Jones’ analysis is bolstered by the waning La Nina moving to neutral conditions in the Tropical Pacific, predictions borne out by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. While the cool year flies in the face of the warming trends, Jones notes, “We should expect variability in the system, even cool years during a warm period.” T R I A L S A N D T R I B U L AT I O N S

WHILE SIMON MADE WINE FOR

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Chateau Ste. Michelle from 1977 to 1984, renowned German viticulturalist Helmut Becker collaborated on trials in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. The Becker Project tested 60 varieties of vinifera grapes throughout the Okanagan Valley near Kelowna, Summerland and the Ron Bitner of Black Sage Bench. Bitner Vineyards in Research and results Caldwell, Idaho. pointed to whites — Auxerrois, Ehrenfelser, tion during ripening and at harvest,” Pinot Blanc and Riesling — as the Jones said. “Our goal is to underfuture of vinifera in the Okanagan stand suitability, know the range of Valley. fruit composition, predict plant The Osoyoos Indian Band went growth, and help with yield forecastahead and planted 100 acres to ing by understanding site and vinthree varieties — all white. tage climate differences.” “At that time, everyone knew it One of the participants is his would be suicide to plant something father, Dr. Earl Jones of Abacela like Merlot,” Gehringer said. “Now, Vineyards & Winery in Roseburg. Syrah is doing quite well. And some “It’s fun to drive a row and see the people are getting pretty cocky variability,” Earl Jones said. “And because they are even planting since the nine varieties in the trial Zinfandel.” are each own-rooted, you learn Gehringer, who grew up in the something in that regard because Okanagan Valley’s Golden Mile, began most of us are planted on grafted planting the family’s 45-acre estate in rootstock. So we get to see what the 1981. Much of their program focuses vine does in its natural state.” on Germanic whites, however they’ve While his father has become planted Merlot, Cabernet Franc and famous for award-winning results with Cabernet Sauvignon in their younger different varieties, Greg Jones knows DryRock Vineyard. others don’t want to experiment. “We’ve moved to Bordeaux vari“Frankly, my whole goal is for eties in the DryRock because the clithere to be much less trial and error mate change allowed us to do it,” he and for people being more successsaid. “I grew up here, so I’ve always ful,” Jones said. been pessimistic about the climate, C H A N G I N G V I T I C U LT U R E but I’ve been wrong all the way.” Jones launched a similar project in THOSE CHIFFON MARGARINE Southern Oregon in 2003. The same commercials of the 1970s warned, nine varieties are planted in 28 vine“It’s not nice to fool Mother Nature.” yards, spanning Ashland, Cave Viticulturalists, though, continue Junction and Elkton. He visits each to develop tricks of their trade to site at least twice a year and proexact the most from each vintage. duces year-end reports that are Lessons learned — particularly shared throughout the industry. clonal selection and canopy manage“I collect data on temperature, ment — over the years paid off, parplant phenology and fruit compositicular during the 2005 vintage for

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Pinot Noir producers in the Willamette Valley. “We’re on rootstocks that actually push the maturity process up a bit,” said Lynn Penner-Ash, winemaker at Penner-Ash Wine Cellars near Newberg, Ore. “We’ve also changed our philosophy on thinning. We go in and thin much earlier than we did in 1995. “It used to be in Oregon that you’d pull an entire strip of leaves and see bare fruit hanging there. We’ve gone to what I call a more mottled, umbrella look,” she continued. “Every cluster still has a leaf shadowing it, but there’s still enough leaf-pulling taking place to allow air flow to keep your clusters from getting too wet. So when you have rainy days, the clusters dry out very, very quickly.” It wasn’t that long ago when winemakers and grape growers didn’t work in concert as much. Farmers traditionally correlate larger yields to more money. However, crops of Pinot Noir allowed to surpass 2 tons per acre often won’t reach the ripeness levels sought by many 21st century winemakers. “We were not tying quality to yields as definitively as now,” Simon said. “In the ’80s, there were some pretty lean wines.” Now, a growing number of wineries pay the growers based on quality rather than quantity, and wineries contract with vineyard owners for particular blocks within a site. Winemakers visit the vineyards and collaborate with the vineyard managers. Targets are established for flavor profiles involving sugar and acid levels. Stillwater Creek Vineyard, which overlooks Royal City, is viewed by many regional winemakers as one of Washington’s premier vineyards. Mike and Winnie Alberg manage the 9-year-old site in the Frenchman Hills. They grow for 25 wineries under individual long-term contracts. “Winemakers request fewer tons per acre in order to produce higher38

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quality wine, so the price per acre is set where we feel we can afford to farm the grapes and still provide the individual canopy management desires for each of our ultra premium wine grape customers,” Winnie Alberg said. “Each winery is allocated the same rows year after year, so the winemakers are able to fine-tune their grape-growing targets each year once they see how the wines perform in the barrel.” Research done at Northwest colleges has been critical to the changing face of winemaking. It flourished in Washington under the late Walter Clore at Washington State University’s Irrigated Agriculture Research and Extension Center in Prosser. “We just learned along with the rest of the industry,” Simon said. “We’re constantly dialing in the irrigation, and that’s been one of the biggest things. Another one is canopy management. Everyone used to do the sprawl thing. We’ve gotten a lot of help over the years from research done at WSU-IAREC from Sara Spayd, and now Markus Keller.” Idaho turned to Australia for advice at the suggestion of Bitner, who served for years as acting director of the Idaho Wine and Grape Growers Commission. “Fifteen years ago, we had Richard Smart, the famous Australian wine expert, visit us,” Bitner recalled. “He got us away from the big, sprawling vines and toward VSP (vertical shoot positioning). That really turned it around for red grapes in Idaho. For the most part, we’ve just been tweaking things ever since.” Longer growing seasons allow for larger crops, more wine and less alcohol. Irrigation, canopy and thinning of grape clusters aren’t the only factors involved in higher yields. It actually starts with the planting of the vines. Traditional spacing often led to 10-foot rows with 6 feet separating each plant. “When we planted in 1981, we did 10 by 6 spacing, which meant 720

Dr. Earl Jones of Abacela Vineyards & Winery in Roseburg, Ore., has set aside part of his vineyards to his son’s climatology research along with a gizmo that sits atop one of his posts that tracks temperature.

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climate change If I had to do it over, I’d plant 9 by 6 or 8 by 6 because people who did now are getting seven tons per acre.” At Stillwater Creek, the Albergs started with 8 by 5, which equals 1,089 plants per acre. “In some of the newer plantings, we’ve gone 8 by 4, which is 1,361 plants per acre,” she said. “In the 8 by 4 blocks, the vines are fantastic.” In the Okanagan Valley, Gehringer points out that 7 by 31⁄2 spacing is common, resulting in 1,775 plants per acre. However, south of the town of Okanagan Falls, Blue Mountain Vineyard and Cellars has taken highdensity plantings to the historic French level of 4 by 4. That’s 4,000 vines per acre. And then there are examples of extreme viticulture performed by some of the most highly regarded winemakers and growers in the Northwest. On Vancouver Island, respected wineries such as Alderlea and Venturi-Schulze have achieved remarkable success by placing tents over their Pinot Noir grapes to create a miniature greenhouse effect. And ironically, while folks in the Okanagan Valley no longer feel the need to bury canes, there’s a throwback practice occurring in the Walla Walla Valley. Cult winemakers Christopher Baron at Cayuse and Chris Figgins at Leonetti are among those who bury one cane from each plant after harvest. It’s a back-breaking and costly insurance policy in the face of the killing freeze that wiped out more than 80 percent of the valley’s 2004 vintage. T H E B I G W O R RY: WAT E R , A N D W H E N

ALTHOUGH VINIFERA GRAPES USE about a quarter of the water of many orchard crops, not much — other than dry-land wheat — would grow in Eastern Washington without irrigation. Drip irrigation, applied in deficit amounts at times in order to stress the vines, is the reason sites such as

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Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Cold Creek Vineyard, north of the Yakima Valley, thrive despite a paltry 5 inches of annual precipitation. But in Jones’ mind, the major threat posed by global climate change is arguably the most important factor in the world — water. “I just came back from Australia, and 10 years of drought there will change everybody’s perception,” Jones said. “If you went to people in Eastern Washington or here in the Rogue Valley and said to them, ‘You only have 20 percent of your allocation,’ people would be hurt.” In the Willamette Valley, untimely rain rather than irrigation most often is the worry. However, climatologists such as Jones foresee a disturbing scenario that will affect nearly anyone who relies on irrigated crops. “Most of our projections are saying that we will get more rain than we will snow, and the snow levels will go up higher in elevation,” Jones said. “What that typically means is that it moves the water delivery to earlier in the year, and that earliness will put the bulk of our water resources at the time when we don’t need it. “That could be a real problem,” Jones continued. “We really need to assess our future water availability and use in the western United States.” Construction of more reservoirs might be one angle to consider, Jones said. An example is the proposed Black Rock Reservoir east of Yakima, Wash., however the issues go beyond funding as legislators, irrigators, farmers, environmentalists and tribal leaders are at odds. “We need the snowpack to support the crops,” Simon said. “I haven’t studied the Black Rock project closely enough. Maybe it makes sense, but obviously there is still a lot of room for water conservation, and I would hope that would be the first stage.” THE FUTURE

BITNER HIMSELF TRAVELS THE world for business as a scientist. He’s one of the world’s foremost

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THE PERFECT CLIMATE FOR NEW CAREER

f you ask Greg Jones, it was a career path ripe for the picking. And within a decade, this professor of environmental studies at Southern Oregon University in Ashland has grown into one of the planet’s leading authorities on all things related to climate’s role in viticulture and wine production. Along the way, Jones, 49, is helping his father — Earl Jones of Abacela Vineyards and Winery in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley — and other growers in the Pacific Northwest and beyond because viticulture is the focus of his climate research. “One of the reasons I came to Southern Oregon is that there was not a lot of research going on for the people here,” Greg said. In 1997, three years after his father and stepmother, Hilda, began planting their vineyard in Roseburg, Jones had completed his graduate work and teaching at the University of Virginia. He was about to accept a position as a professor in climatology at Colgate. Then, SOU posted an opening that drew more than 100 applicants. “I thought, ‘I’ve been to Ashland. I know how nice that is. And it’s only an hour and half away from where my dad is,” he recalled. As Greg pursued his doctorate at Virginia — which included graduate work at the University of Bordeaux — Earl was a clinical dermatologist practicing in Florida and devoting hours at home searching throughout North America for a suitable climate in which to grow Tempranillo, a Spanish grape variety. “My dad had already been on a 11⁄2-year quest to grow BITNER HIMSELF TRAVELS THE world for business as a scientist. He’s one of the world’s foremost bee biologists, and much of his research takes place in Australia. “Jones and (wine writer) Dan Berger talk so much about cool-climate Rieslings and that these regions are where people in the wine industry should be looking at going to,” Bitner said. “And when I read Jones’ papers, I see where he’s coming from. It’s a hot topic right now. I’ve been telling the Idaho Tourism Board that it may not be all 40

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grapes and make wine,” he said. “He hadn’t found his property, but he had honed into the places he was most interested in. It became increasing evident that the questions my dad was asking me were the types of questions that needed to be answered for everybody.” And a world of opportunity opened up. “I saw very quickly that people in the wine industry know quite a bit about climate, but almost no climatologists were studying viticulture,” Greg said. “It was kind of fortuitous that happened because I could have become a cloud climatologist or studied water relations in the Sahara.” He’d already experienced enough heat in the early days of Abacela. “I remember being there in the HOT summer trying to put these piezometers in the vineyard,” Greg said. “We worked together a lot, and today, my dad and I talk virtually every day. It’s usually something related to the plant, growing the grapes or the climate.” Jones admits he has critics, those who claim his research would be better served on more serious crops. “My colleagues do that, and I support them in every way that I can,” he said. “My job as a professor and instructor is to bring awareness. If I can somehow study suitability and structure for wine grapes and bring about awareness of a bigger societal issue like climate change, then why not?” In the classroom, Jones has a reputation as an exacting professor. He’s also an engaging presenter and respected researcher who is in constant demand worldwide, raising the profile of Southern Oregon University’s environmental studies program. “I live in small town and walk to work, however I’ve traveled to virtually every wine region in the world,” he said. “I am very, very fortunate that I just happen to be a scientist studying something that’s of great interest to others and that absolutely jazzes me! It’s a lot of fun.”

about skiing here in the next 15-20 years. Maybe it will be wine country. I may not live to see it, though.” Kathy Charlton, owner of Olympic Cellars Winery in Port Angeles, Wash., sought answers and ideas not only for herself, but also her neighbors. In 2005, Charlton and more than 50 other entities in the North Olympic Peninsula region paid $15,000 for a climate and lanscape suitability study performed by Jones. It turned out to be an exciting project for Jones, who presented his findings May 7, 2007, at Port Angeles City Hall.

“Here’s something to think about,” Jones offered. “If the climates of the Willamette Valley of 1960s and ’70s are what they are now, where are those (future prime spots) today? The climate data show it’s up in the Puget Sound region. If you look at the inner parts of the Puget Sound, through the canals and the islands, the climate structure there today is not much different that the Willamette Valley in the ’70s and early ’80s.” Given the market potential with Seattle so close by, the study done

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Global climate change may make water the biggest issue to viticulturalists in the future. Already most vineyards in the Northwest, such as those at Columbia Crest, shown here, use drip irrigation to conserve water.

tion, better fruit, better wines and new wineries. It adds up to increased tourism and more employment for the Puget Sound. Another overlooked region in the Northwest, Jones said, is the east side of the Willamette Valley. “There is a lot of potential for future grown,” he said. “There’s not much planted there right now, and I think the climate, available land and recognition will come over time.” For Gehringer, he just wants to maintain what he now enjoys. “I’ve wondered, ‘Do I have to buy a chunk of land farther north to maintain the Germanic qualities of our wines?’ ” Gehringer said. “But I’ve learned that daylight/night ratio

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has more influence on flavor profiles than temperatures. We haven’t rattled the Earth’s axis yet, so we haven’t lost our fruit-flavor profile.” WINNERS, NOT WHINERS

MANY WHO MAKE WINE NEAR THE 45th parallel and above don’t seem to mind. It’s akin to the joke postcard that depicts a group of folks — bundled up in winter garb — under the caption of “Montanans for global warming.” Warmer vintages help Northwest winemakers produce the higher-alcohol wines that some wine critics and many consumers favor — for now. “We’re all letting things ripen a little further than we used to,” Simon said. “There were some pretty lean

F E AT U R E

wines in the ’80s, but style trends are happening at the same time that climate change is. Who knows how long it will take for next real significant style change to happen again?” Until this year, Pinot Noir producers in the Willamette Valley couldn’t release their high-priced wines fast enough. Blame the softening market for their wines not on the rising alcohols, but rather on the recession in the United States. And with land prices eclipsing $150,000 per acre in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, growers and winemakers can’t afford mistakes on grape varieties, site selection or killing winters such as those of 1968-69 or 1978-79 or 2003-04. “Climate change is a reality for us,” Gehringer said. “A lot of our success in the Okanagan is due to timing. We’re just riding a wave, and it’s been horseshoes in our pockets all the way.” Ultimately, the consumer is the biggest winner, and count famed German winemaker Ernst Loosen among the victors. He partners with Chateau Ste. Michelle on their Eroica Riesling project in the Columbia Valley, but the Moselbased vintner no longer is as envious of climate conditions in Washington as he once was. The proof is in his aging bottles of German Riesling. “In the older days, we had a lot of vintages that didn’t get at all ripe,” Loosen said. “I’m not missing a 1984, a 1980, or 1978 or 1974 or 1972, which were damn unripe — stuff you STILL can’t drink because it was so high in acidity and so low in ripeness. You’d have potential alcohols of only 6 percent! “I don’t need those vintages anymore,” Loosen added. “I’m pretty happy that every year we get our fruit ripe. We get 10 percent alcohol.” ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN AREA

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN AREA

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WINE COUNTRY: GRANT COUNTY

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WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA

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WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO

“BEST RED WINE” ~ 2008 Northwest Wine Summit www.koenigvineyards.com • 208-455-8386 20928 Grape Lane, Caldwell, ID 83607 Open Fri., Sat. & Sun. 12-5

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Little Italy Red Italian varieties thrive in the Pacific Nor thwest BY ANDY PERDUE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

n the Pacific Northwest, most of the popular wine grapes are firmly rooted in France: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. Yet here and there, Italian grapes are slowly catching on. It began with Sangiovese and has spread to such varieties as Barbera, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. Even the California-centric Zinfandel is gaining a foothold. This summer, we gathered the greatest collection of Northwest Italian reds ever tasted to gauge how the region is faring. The wines are molto bene — very good indeed! Looking through the results of our tasting of 78 reds, trends quickly emerge. Wineries with names such as Ponzi, Cuneo, Stella Fino and Stomani would seem to have a natural advantage thanks to their Italian heritage, and their wines bubbled to the top. Barnard Griffin earned three top “Outstanding” awards, which is simply a combination of great grapes and equally superior winemaking. We were thrilled to see young producers taking a chance with mostly untested varieties, and many were rewarded for their outstanding wines, including Balsamroot, Trio, Des Voigne and Jacksonville Vineyards. And mature producers Silver Lake and Columbia also showed their mettle. One thing to keep in mind: All of these wines are made in small amounts. Of the 78 wines we tasted, only four were produced in quantities of more than 1,000 cases. This means many of the wines here will be difficult to find outside of the producers’ tasting rooms. So if you want them, check your favorite local

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retailer or hop online. Our judges for this competition were Jessica Munnell, former Chateau Ste. Michelle red winemaker who is launching her own winery this fall; Bob Woehler, the dean of Northwest wine writers and Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor; Hank Sauer, longtime Northwest wine enthusiast and tasting facilitator for Wine Press Northwest; Eric Degerman, Wine Press Northwest managing editor; and Andy Perdue, Wine Press Northwest editor-in-chief.

OUTSTANDING Silver Lake Winery $19 2006 Roza Hills Vineyard Reserve Zinfandel, Rattlesnake Hills Several years ago, this Woodinville, Wash., winery took over the former Covey Run building in what now is the Rattlesnake Hills appellation in the northern portion of the Yakima Valley near the town of Zillah. Silver Lake has since annually crafted wines from Roza Hills, a 235-acre vineyard next to the Silver Lake tasting room. The Rattlesnake Hills AVA is proving to be a good region for suave red wines, as this Zinfandel reveals. It opens with aromas of chocolate, fresh cherries and huckleberry pie, followed by a luscious, dense and jammy mouth feel loaded with ripe cherries and huckleberries. (264 cases, 13.9% alc.) Barnard Griffin $25 2005 Gunkel Vineyards Barbera, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Rob Griffin has long worked with the Gunkel family for Italian varieties, particularly Zinfandel. This vineyard-designated Barbera is a new wine for this Richland, Wash., winery, and it is superb. The Gunkel operation is in the eastern Columbia Gorge near the community of Maryhill, and these longtime grape growers supply grapes to many top Northwest wineries. This gorgeous wine opens with aromas of spicy cranberries and raspberries, along with hints of lilacs. It follows with bold flavors of ripe plums, black cherries and black pepper. Hints of cinnamon and clove provide underlying complexity and Montmorency cherry notes provide food-friendly tartness

W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy A wine that is $15 US or Canadian and under. CDN: Canadian dollars.

on the finish. (397 cases, 14.8% alc.) Ponzi Vineyards $25 2006 Dolcetto, Willamette Valley At first, it’s outrageous to think that the Ponzi family would try to grow this Piedmont grape in the cool, rainy Willamette Valley. Yet the amazing quality of this wine forces us to shift our proverbial paradigm. The Ponzis planted Dolcetto in 1992 at the estate Aurora Vineyard in the northern Willamette Valley, making it one of Oregon’s oldest plantings of this variety. This wine is from one of the warmest Oregon vintages on record. It opens with wafts of lilacs and lavender, along with notes of bright cherries, raspberries and even hints of blueberries. On the palate are luscious flavors of ripe plums and blackberries that provide beautiful balance. Pair this with stuffed flank steak or roasted duck. (580 cases, 13.5% alc.) Best buy!

Maryhill Winery $10 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley In our year-end Platinum Judging last year, the 2006 version of this pink beauty captured our judges’ attention and tied for the best wine of the competition. The 2007 vintage is no less amazing. Winemaker Craig Larson crafted this stunning follow-up before he headed south to take a job in Temecula, Calif. This opens with opulent aromas of bright, clean strawberries and Rainier cherries, followed by luscious flavors of fresh strawberries. It shows remarkable complexity on the palate and shows off beautiful balance and structure before finishing dry. This rosé should pair well with a variety of food, from salmon to grilled meats. (1,450 cases, 14.5% alc.) Best buy!

Barnard Griffin $12 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Winemaker Rob Griffin perhaps didn’t figure how this rosé would take off when he first started making it. Yet this wine annually wins top awards around the country. The fruit comes from longtime grape grower and friend Maury Balcom, who farms in the

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Columbia Basin north of Pasco. This wine’s gorgeous color makes you want to reach for the glass, which offers aromas of fresh strawberries and cherries. On the palate is an amazing array of flavors, including cranberries, rhubarb, pomegranates and peaches. It’s dry from beginning to end, so don’t confuse this seriously great wine with some California Kool-Aid. Pair this with everything from surf to turf, from Sunday brunch to Thanksgiving dinner. (3,200 cases, 12.4% alc.) Des Voigne Cellars $26 2006 San Remo Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Winemaker Darren Des Voigne refers to this as his signature wine — as well he should. Des Voigne, proprietor of this Woodinville, Wash., boutique operation, is inspired primarily by the wines of Tuscany, and that Italian region’s signature grape is beautiful in his hands. The grapes come from famed Red Mountain vineyard Ciel du Cheval, as well as nearby Candy Mountain Vineyard. It opens with bold bright aromas of Chelan cherries, raspberries and red plums, followed by bright flavors of plums and Rainier cherries. This wine is absolutely loaded with fresh fruit and ample acidity. It’s a youthfully fun wine with smooth, creamy tannins and a lengthy and memorable finish. (223 cases, 14.5% alc.) Five Star Cellars $28 2006 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Matt Huse is a walking advertisement for the Walla

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Walla Community College’s winemaking program. An early graduate of the department, he quickly joined his father, David, in this family operation. Vintage after vintage, their wines have been nothing short of remarkable. This wine is a beauty. It contains grapes from Neuffer, Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge vineyards. The result is a spicy, sexy wine with exotic aromas of huckleberries, vanilla cream and red plums, followed by beguiling flavors of ripe raspberries, blackberries and hints of milk chocolate, all backed with bright acidity and silky tannins. Enjoy this with a big plate of lasagna. (475 cases, 14.1% alc.) Barnard Griffin $25 2005 Hells Gate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley Somebody needs to find out if Rob Griffin has any Italian in his heritage because he certainly has a knack with these styles of wine. Griffin has been crafting a Zin from this Maryhill, Wash., vineyard for several years, so its success in our blind tasting is not a great surprise. This vineyard is owned and meticulously farmed by the Gunkel family. This classic, hedonistic wine shows off aromas of black raspberries, black cherries and pepper, followed by a bright, clean entry that leads to a luscious, full-bodied midpalate loaded with ripe raspberries and plums. It’s a big, bold wine with plenty of length. (360 cases, 14.7% alc.)

Morrison Lane $35 2004 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley Dean and Verdie Morrison began planting their vineyard in 1994, then launched their winery with the 2002 vintage. They were first known for Syrah, but they also planted unusual varieties for Washington. Nebbiolo is famous in the Piedmont region of Italy, where it goes into Barolo and Barbaresco. This version offers great hope for the variety in the Northwest, as it opens with aromas of black cherries and smoky notes, followed by big flavors of mushrooms and ripe, sweet raspberries. This is a bold, tannic wine, as is typical of the variety, yet it’s perfectly balanced with fruit and acidity. This should age beautifully for a decade or more, or pair it with the thickest of steaks. (146 cases, 14.3% alc.) Columbia Winery $28 2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley When Associated Vintners launched in 1962, it was the first Washington winery dedicated to using European wine grapes. During David Lake’s 27 years at the helm, the winery that became known as Columbia Winery earned a reputation for experimentation. Now, with Kerry Norton as winemaker, it continues with this delicious Italian-style red. It opens with aromas of cedar, Bing cherries and raspberries, followed by voluptuous flavors of blackberries, juicy cherries and dark chocolate. Approachable and expressive tannins back

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this wine and provide a long, lingering finish. (650 cases, 14.1% alc.) Stella Fino $25 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley This Milton-Freewater, Ore., winery is off to a fantastic start with this stellar Barbera. Owner/winemaker Matt Steiner is focused on making Italian-style wines in the Walla Walla Valley, honoring his great-grandmother, Stella Fino, who emigrated from Italy to New York in the early 1900s. This red takes advantage of grapes from Lonesome Spring Ranch near Benton City, Wash. It opens with stunning aromas of sweet oak, blackberries, kitchen spices and chocolate shavings, followed by flavors of big, bright fruit, cinnamon and coffee. Ripe fruit provides a round mouth feel that leads to a lengthy, pleasing finish. (72 cases, 14.6% alc.) Stomani Cellars $26 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley After graduating from WSU’s enology program, Alex Manoni launched his Italian-focused winery in Seattle SoDo district. This is Manoni’s first release, and it is a stunner. The grapes are from Wahluke Slope Vineyards near Mattawa, Wash. The wine opens with aromas of cloves, cinnamon and blueberry pie, along with hints of cola and chocolate. On the palate, it opens with smooth, clean, bright red fruit, followed by delicious flavors of black licorice. Tannins are in check, and plen-

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ty of food-friendly acidity backs up the ample fruit. This is perfect for roasted meats or pasta dishes. (135 cases, 13.5% alc.)

entry is backed with rich, expressive tannins that give way to a pleasing fruit-driven finish. Pair with cannelloni. (316 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Jacksonville Vineyards $38 2006 Zinfandel, Applegate Valley This young producer near the historic Southern Oregon town of Jacksonville is off to a superb start, thanks in part to this luscious Zinfandel. Dave and Pamela Palmer moved to the Applegate Valley some 15 years ago to purchase a 100-year-old homestead, where they began planting a vineyard and later building their production operation. This big Zin is complex in the nose with aromas of black olives, dark cherries, black pepper and chocolate, followed by bold flavors of black raspberries and plums. The lush mouth feel is backed with plenty of backbone, leading to a lingering finish. A perfect match with barbecued ribs. (75 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Trio Vintners $26 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley Three Walla Walla Community College enology grads, Denise Slattery, Tim Boushey and Steve Michener, are the trio behind this young producer at the Walla Walla airport. This Zin delivers, thanks in part to the inclusion of small amounts of Mourvèdre, Sangiovese and Syrah. The grapes came primarily from the hot Wahluke Slope, though fruit from the Yakima, Columbia and Walla Walla valleys also contributed. It opens with aromas of red peppercorns, dark cherries and strawberry jam, followed by big flavors of raspberries and spicy cherries. This wine has a lot of alcohol, but the fruit helps to carry it. We’d drink it young with barbecued ribs. (80 cases, 16.2% alc.)

Abacela Winery $20 2006 Dolcetto, Southern Oregon Earl and Hilda Jones migrated across the country to Oregon’s Umpqua Valley specifically to grow grapes for which they were passionate. Winemaker Kiley Evans handled the perfectly ripe grapes with a deft touch, crafting a wine that opens with pretty aromas of violets, sweet spices, black cherries and hints of fresh espresso. On the palate, this wine is bursting with flavor, showing off blackberries, raspberries, cherries and chocolate. Its powerful

Tre Nova $17 2006 Bonatello, Columbia Valley Once upon a time, Gino Cuneo owned Cuneo Cellars in Carlton, Ore. Changes in ownership and philosophy led to that winery being renamed and Cuneo starting over. He’s off to a remarkable beginning with his new brand and focus. This Sangiovese comes from Eastern Washington grapes, where Cuneo has forged relationships with top growers for years. This opens with inviting aromas of allspice, cherries and fresh rose petals. The

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italian reds chocolate cake with raspberry filling. It’s a hedonistic wine. (980 cases, 16.4% alc.) Yellow Hawk Cellar $20 2006 Barbera, Columbia Valley Barbara Hetrick and Tim Sampson launched Yellow Hawk Cellar in the late ’90s intent on crafting Italianstyle wines. This small Walla Walla winery has remained true to these ideals with this Piedmont grape. It opens with aromas of warm berries, pomegranates and baker’s chocolate, followed by elegant, fruit-driven flavors that include cherries and boysenberries. It is backed with plenty of acidity and should pair well with grilled pork or spicy sausages. (364 cases, 13.8% alc.)

palate opens with flavors of sweet cherries and raspberries. This wine has a fair bit of tannin and alcohol, but it’s very polished. Pair this with grilled meats or rich pasta dishes. (325 cases, 15.9% alc.) Tre Nova $40 2006 Secopassa, Columbia Valley Gino Cuneo’s top-end wine is this blend of Sangiovese and Barbera. Cuneo has worked with Jim Holmes of Ciel du Cheval for years, even planting some of the first Brunello clone Sangiovese in Washington on the slopes of Red Mountain. Cuneo dried the grapes in the Amarone style, then crafted a wine that reveals aromas of red currants, green olives, black raspberries and a doppio espresso. A luscious entry leads to bold flavors of wild strawberries, black cherries and hints of dark chocolate. It’s a big wine that deserves a rich steak. (143 cases, 16.8% alc.) Forgeron Cellars $30 2005 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley It is entirely possible that Burgundian-trained Marie-Eve Gilla never worked with Zinfandel before arriving in the Walla Walla Valley. She has been producing Zin for Forgeron since 2002, and this is her finest effort to date. This opens with complex aromas of white pepper, spicy raspberries and blueberries, followed by bright flavors of rich, ripe raspberries and cherries. The oak is well integrated, playing a

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bit of background music in a symphony of flavors. (485 cases, 14.6% alc.) Balsamroot Winery $35 2006 Hard Row to Hoe Zinfandel, Wahluke Slope The husband-wife team of Don and Judy Phelps are behind this Chelan area producer, with Judy in the cellar and Don working the vineyard. This blend of Zinfandel (75%) and Merlot uses grapes from Pheasant Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, and it is a dandy. It opens with aromas of blackberries, black pepper and ripe blueberries, followed by big, luscious flavors of black cherries, ripe plums and hints of rhubarb pie. It’s loaded with fruit from beginning to end and has an amazing finish. Pair this with barbecued meats or a hearty lasagna. (221 cases, 15% alc.)

EXCELLENT Maryhill Winery $32 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel, Columbia Valley In a well-documented achievement, this winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge put Washington Zin on the map a few years ago with a victory over more than 200 California wines. This release opens with aromas of black cherries, chocolate and a hint of maple syrup, followed by thick, delicious flavors of rich, ripe fruit as well as

Willow Crest Winery $24 2004 Collina Bella, Yakima Valley More than three decades ago, Piero Antinori created an entirely new class of wines called Super Tuscans by blending Sangiovese with nontraditional grapes. Yakima Valley winemaker David Minick has followed the formula with this wine, which is a blend of 84% Sangiovese and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with aromas of dark berries, cloves and sweet herbs, followed by luscious flavors of blackberries, vanilla and a good dose of oak. The round mouth feel is backed with plenty of structure, leading to a memorable finish. (180 cases, 13.9% alc.) Tre Nova $35 2006 Bonatello Riserva, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Gino Cuneo has long made wine in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. With this new project, he focuses almost entirely on his first love, Italian-style reds. This reserve-level Sangiovese opens with aromas of spicy cherries, floral notes, black olives and even hints of cranberries. On the palate, this provides a supple entry that gives way to smooth, elegant flavors of cherries, red currants and pomegranates. (122 cases, 15.9% alc.) Best buy!

Palotai Vineyard & Winery $15 2005 Dolcetto, Umpqua Valley Gabor Palotai learned winemaking in his native Hungary, then came to the New World to launch his eponymous winery in 2001. He has produced a string of delicious wines ever since. This wine is a terrific effort, opening with aromas of red plums, black pepper, fresh strawberries and hints of forest floor. On the palate, this is an easy-drinking wine with flavors of cranberries and red currants. It has amazing acidity and will pair well with a variety of Italian dishes. (210 cases, 13.0% alc.)

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italian reds Morrison Lane $26 2005 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Dan Morrison learned his winemaking skills from John Abbott (Canoe Ridge and Abeja) and has put them to good work at this family operation. This is a gorgeous wine that shows off aromas of cloves, pencil shavings, bright cherries and hints of vanilla. On the palate, it reveals smooth, well-balanced flavors of Rainier cherries, hints of red licorice and cinnamon. This is a food-friendly wine that should pair well with hearty pasta dishes, grilled meats or stews. (147 cases, 14.2% alc.) Walter Dacon Wines $31 2006 Sangiovese, Red Mountain To this point, owner/winemaker Lloyd Anderson has made his reputation for this small Shelton, Wash., winery with inspiring bottlings of Syrah. In 2004, he began making Sangiovese after Scott Williams, winemaker for Kiona Vineyards Winery, sold him some grapes from his Red Mountain vineyard. It’s a zesty wine with aromas of moist earth, straw, cherries and allspice, along with flavors of cherries and cloves. It’s a juicy wine, yet it’s backed with impressive acidity that should help it gain even more complexity for the next several years. (188 cases, 14.9% alc.) Best buy!

Waving Tree Winery $15 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Terrence Atkins is building a reputation for his Italian-style reds, as he makes four wines using Italian varieties. This Sangiovese opens with bright aromas of raspberries, cranberries and a hint of rhubarb. It’s a beautifully balanced wine with flavors of cranberries, rhubarb and cherries with notes of vanilla. Supple tannins and bright acidity give this huge food-pairing potential. (1,500 cases, 13.5% alc.) Best buy!

Tefft Cellars $14 2005 Villa Toscana, Yakima Valley Owner Joel Tefft has always had a deep interest in all things Italian. This led him to embrace Italian varieties long before they became stylish in Washington. Villa Toscana is a blend of Sangiovese (65%), Nebbiolo (15%), Zinfandel (10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). It opens with intriguing aromas of spicy cherries, cola, golden raisins and vanilla, followed by complex flavors of cherries and raspberries. (420 cases, 13% alc.) Locati Cellars $28 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley This is the first release of Michael Locati’s new winery, and it’s a dandy. The grapes came from Lonesome Spring Ranch, a vineyard near Benton City, Wash. This wine is a bit subdued at first, then begins to show off dark berries on the nose. The entry bursts with dark fruit flavors and leads to a rich midpalate. Pair with grilled meats or hearty pasta dishes. (90 cases, 14.6% alc.)

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Barnard Griffin $19 2004 Vino Rosso, Columbia Valley This is primarily Barbera (90.4%), with the balance Cabernet Sauvignon, and proceeds go toward helping animals. It’s an alluring wine with aromas of spices and rich, dark fruit, followed by expressive flavors of blackberries and plums. It’s a balanced wine with great length and terrific food potential. (126 cases, 13.8% alc.) Kyra Wines $20 2007 Purple Sage Vineyard Dolcetto, Wahluke Slope This Moses Lake, Wash., winery is on a fast track with the quality of its wines. This is a delicious example of Dolcetto, thanks to aromas of milk chocolate and blackberries, followed by flavors of blackberries warmed by the late afternoon sun, along with chocolate undertones. It’s a balanced wine with moderate tannins and a delicate fruit finish. (88 cases, 14.2% alc.) Morrison Lane $24 2005 Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley Dean and Verdie Morrison planted just over a halfacre of Dolcetto on their estate vineyard in Washington’s Walla Walla Valley. This is a superb example of the Piedmont grape, with aromas of cloves, cinnamon, blackberries and forest floor, followed by flavors of red plums, cherries and boysenberries. Expressive tannins and bright acidity provide all the necessary structure. (73 cases, 14.4% alc.) Stella Fino $25 2005 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Matthew Steiner moved from New York to follow his passion for winemaking. For this wine, he acquired grapes from Pepper Bridge Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. It’s a young, bright wine with aromas of rhubarb and wild strawberries. On the palate, it shows flavors of cherries and cranberries. (67 cases, 14.6% alc.) Eagle Haven Winery $20 2006 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley This winery near the Skagit Valley town of Sedro-Woolley, Wash., produces both grape and fruit wines and will soon be releasing wines from its estate vineyard. It reached over the Cascades for these grapes. This wine opens with aromas of blackberry jam, plums and milk chocolate, followed by ripe flavors of blueberries and Rainier cherries. Bright tannins and moderate tannins prop up all the fruit and provide the backbone for a hearty meal. (200 cases, 13.5% alc.) Working Girls Wines $22 2006 Gracefully Aging Red, Horse Heaven Hills Olympic Cellars owner Kathy Charlton is a tireless worker and promoter, and this whimsically named wine is a Zinfandel from the Horse Heaven Hills that opens with aromas of cherries and vanilla, followed by luscious flavors of raspberries and black cherries. It’s a boldly structured wine with all the balance one could hope for. (150 cases, 14.8% alc.)

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Woodward Canyon Winery $19 2007 Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley Owner/winemaker Rick Small has been a maverick his entire career — and no less so with this wine, which was the youngest in our judging. Aged just five months in oak, it was bottled in April and released in June. It’s a fun and exciting young wine with aromas of cherry extract and delicate spices, followed by expressive flavors of cherries. This wine has a fair bit of finesse and should pair well with a plate of pasta. (403 cases, 13.2% alc.) Claar Cellars $19 2006 White Bluffs Sangiovese, Columbia Valley The Whitelatch family has been growing grapes on bluffs above the Columbia River for nearly 70 years. This Sangiovese shows off gorgeous aromas of cherries, cola and vanilla, followed by flavors of rich, ripe red fruit backed with bright acidity, well-toned tannins and a long, lingering finish. It’s a nicely priced wine that will pair well with everything from pizza to prime rib. (240 cases, 13.3% alc.) Waving Tree Winery $20 2005 Sangiovese-Cab, Columbia Valley This blend is crafted by a small winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge. It opens with aromas of cranberries, bright cherries and rhubarb pie, followed by big, plush flavors of ripe cherries, red plums and hints of chocolate. This is a pretty big wine with assertive tannins, yet it has all the fruit for a balanced mouth feel. Pair this with grilled meats or a hearty pasta dish. (150 cases, 13.5% alc.) Zefina Winery $20 2004 Sangiovese, Horse Heaven Hills Zefina is owned by Corus Estates, a Seattle company with vineyard and winery holdings throughout the Northwest. All of the grapes come from the estate Alder Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. Winemaker Rob Chowanietz has crafted a delicious Italianstyle red that opens with aromas of wild strawberries and cranberries, followed by flavors of cloves and ripe Chelan cherries. (350 cases, 14.5% alc.) Locati Cellars $28 2005 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley For his first wine, Michael Locati already has tapped into one of Washington’s top vineyards in Pepper Bridge near the Oregon border. This is a complex wine, showing off aromas of lilacs, cedar, white pepper, cherry cola and even black fruit notes. On the palate, it reveals a rich mouth feel that includes flavors of ripe raspberries and Chelan cherries. (75 cases, 14.6% alc.) Maryhill Winery $20 2005 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Using grapes primarily from nearby vineyards (Gunkel and Alder Ridge), this top Washington producer has crafted an expressive and balanced wine. It opens with aromas

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of red licorice, black cherries and a hint of minerally earth, followed by flavors of ripe plums and cranberries. Its acidity and tannins expertly balance the fruit. We would pair this with a plate of aged cheeses, pork chops or lamb stew. (2,055 cases, 14.4% alc.) Quenett Cellars $20 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley Named after a local native word for “steelhead,” this Hood River, Ore., winery is focusing on Italian varieties. This Barbera is crafted in the Old World style, with exotic aromas of dark berries, black olives and new leather. It’s a richly structured and complex wine on the palate, offering dark and, dare we say, brooding flavors of black currants and ripe plums. This should pair well with heavier meals, such as grilled steaks topped with sautéed mushrooms or carmelized onions. (310 cases, 14.7% alc.) Zerba Cellars $28 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley In the Walla Walla border town of Milton-Freewater, Ore., this small winery is making a big name for itself with superior offerings. Winemaker Doug Nierman blended Sangiovese (86%) with Syrah (14%) to craft a wine that opens with aromas of dusty cherries, chocolate and sweet herbs, followed by big flavors of ripe cherries and hints of blackberries. It’s a smooth, delicious wine with a rich mouth feel and tannins that provide little more than background music. (319 cases, 14.4% alc.) Maryhill Winery $18 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley If Maryhill didn’t pioneer Zinfandel in Washington, then it certainly has raised the grapes profile with consumers and critics alike. This delicious Zin opens with aromas of light cedar, chocolate and blackberries. On the palate, it reveals luscious flavors of rich, round black fruit, and black licorice. It’s a boldly structured wine that will pair well with brisket or pasta tossed with chorizo. (2,560 cases, 14.8% alc.) Tefft Cellars $12 2007 Dolcetto Rosé, Yakima Valley Winemaker Joel Tefft launched his winery in 1990 and has increasingly focused his efforts on Italian varieties. This delicious and off-dry rosé opens with aromas of rhubarb, cranberries, apricots and oranges, followed by bright, zippy flavors of strawberries, cherries, papayas and Texas pink grapefruit. It is loaded with flavor and acidity and shows off the Dolcetto grape. (105 cases, 12.5% alc.) Cascade Cliffs Winery $50 2005 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley Bob Lorkowski purchased this winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge in 1997 and has gained a near-cult following for his Italian- and Rhônestyle wines. This opens with complex aromas of black cherries, violets and rosewater, followed by big flavors of black fruit and cherry cordials. It’s a rich wine with typical assertive

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tannins that are balanced with all the fruit. One would be well served to age this for a few years. (220 cases, 14.5% alc.)

a pesto pizza. (46 cases, 14.9% alc.)

RECOMMENDED

Best buy!

Pontin del Roza $10 2007 Roza Sunset, Yakima Valley The Pontin family has been making wine in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser, Wash., for many years. This rosé, made from Dolcetto, is delicious. It opens with aromas of lychee, honeysuckle, fresh strawberries and even cotton candy. On the palate, it offers flavors of fresh strawberries sprinkled with a bit of sugar. (50 cases, 13.8% alc.) Columbia Winery $28 2006 Red Willow Vineyard Sangiovese, Yakima Valley Grape grower Mike Sauer enjoyed a long relationship with winemaker David Lake over the latter’s 27-year career at Columbia Winery. That relationship continues with Kerry Norton, who now directs Columbia’s winemaking efforts. This Sangiovese offers aromas of bright cherries, red berries and vanilla. On the palate, this easy-drinking red shows off flavors of ripe red cherries and cranberries backed with solid acidity and plush tannins. Pair this with pasta, pork, beef or even ham sandwiches. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.) Thurston Wolfe Winery $20 2006 Zephyr Ridge Vineyard Howling Wolfe Zinfandel, Washington Wade Wolfe has worked with such varieties as Zin, Primitivo and Petite Sirah for years. This bad boy comes from one of Wolfe’s favorite vineyards in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills. It opens with aromas of espresso, black olives, sweet herbs and black cherries, followed by big flavors of ripe cherries and sweet herbs. It’s a thick wine with chewy tannins, yet it has so much fruit, the structure isn’t too over the top. (390 cases, 15% alc.) Barking Frog $28 2006 Sangiovese, Washington Ron Helbig wowed us with his Pinot Noir, and now the Sherwood, Ore., winemaker has followed up with this superb Sangiovese. This opens with lovely aromas of moist earth and bright cherries with just a hint of oak. A bold fruit entry on the palate leads to an elegant mouth feel rich in ripe cherries. (127 cases, 15% alc.) Animale $22 2006 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley Winemaker Matt Gubitosa launched Animale in 2001, producing tiny amounts of wine in his Seattle operation. This is primarily Zinfandel (87%), with a bit of Syrah, Grenache and Petite Sirah. It starts with aromas of black and green peppercorns, hints of chocolate and underlying dark fruit. On the palate, the fruit is enormous, exploding on the entry and dominating with flavors of raspberries, black cherries and blackberries. Enjoy this lusty wine with barbecued ribs or

Stina’s Cellars $25 2005 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This winery near University Place, Wash., has crafted a tasty Chianti Classico style of red with aromas of cloves, vanilla and cherry and bold flavors of big red fruit. It’s nicely balanced with moderate tannins and solid acidity. Pair with pasta or roasted meats. (75 cases, 13.4% alc.) Trio Vintners $20 2006 Sangiovese, Walla Walla County It is a rare bottle of wine that carries the “Walla Walla County” appellation. Of the four vineyards whose grapes contributed to this wine, Tasawick is outside the valley. This opens with aromas of cloves and cherries and flavors of raspberries and bright cherries. (168 cases, 14.2% alc.) Best buy!

Skylite Cellars $15 2007 Rosé, Columbia Valley Longtime Washington winemaker Robert Smasne crafted this Sangiovese rosé. It opens with huge aromas of cherries and raspberries, and follows up with round, fruit-driven flavors. (56 cases, 13.5% alc.) Best buy!

Pontin del Roza $15 2006 Angelo Pontin Dolcetto, Yakima Valley This wine’s name is a tribute to Angelo Pontin, the family patriarch who emigrated a century ago from Italy to the United States. It’s a delicious red with aromas and flavors of Rainier cherries, sweet spices, a bit of oak and bright acidity. (250 cases, 13.7% alc.) Novelty Hill $25 2005 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Longtime Washington winemaker Mike Januik oversees operation of this Woodinville, Wash., winery. It shows off aromas and flavors of ripe plums and black cherries, as well as hints of vanilla and oak spices. (303 cases, 14.1% alc.) Pend d’Oreille Winery $28 2005 Kestrel Vineyard Sangiovese, Washington The grapes for this wine came from Kestrel Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It’s loaded with bright Chianti-like flavors, including cranberries and pomegranates. Pair with pork, turkey or roasted chicken. (186 cases, 13.9% alc.) Whidbey Island Winery $17 2006 Sangiovese, Yakima Valley Greg and Elizabeth Osenbach blended a bit of Merlot (14%) into this Sangiovese. It is a luscious wine with aromas and flavors of cherries and vanilla. It’s beautifully balanced with bright acidity and modest tannins, providing foodfriendly structure. (300 cases, 13.5% alc.)

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ITALIAN RED VARIETIES Italy is one of the world’s largest and oldest wine-producing nations. Its winemaking styles are as varied as the country itself. Here is a primer on the grapes we encountered in this judging of Northwest Italian reds. S A N G I O V E S E : Sangiovese is most famous in Tuscany, particularly Chianti Classico, Montalcino and Montepulciano. N E B B I O L O : Many collectors put Nebbiolo alongside Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir as the three greatest red wine grapes on the planet. This normally tannic wine is grown in Piedmont, a region in northwestern Italy. There, it goes into Barolo and Barbaresco. B A R B E R A : This widely planted grape is most famous in Piedmont and Lombardy. D O L C E T T O : This is known as “little sweet one” in its

Quenett Cellars $26 2004 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This Sangiovese reveals aromas and flavors of spicy cherries and dense plums. It’s a richly structured wine that will pair well with barbecued meats. (220 cases, 14.6% alc.) Thurston Wolfe Winery $28 2006 Zephyr Ridge Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills Wade Wolfe is one of the very few in the Northwest working with this grape. It’s a big, brooding wine with aromas and flavors of dark cherries and ripe plums and also shows a slight bit of leather. This is available only at his tasting room in Prosser, Wash. (120 cases, 15% alc.) Best buy!

Waving Tree Winery $15 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley This winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge has crafted a version that shows off sweet spices and black cherries backed with a fair bit of oak. (150 cases, 13.7% alc.) Tamarack Cellars $25 2006 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Ron Coleman’s newest wine is delicious, showing off aromas and flavors of bright cherries, cloves and toasted oak. (140 cases, 13.8% alc.) Maryhill Winery $26 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Barbera, Columbia Valley This dark, brooding wine offers a rich entry, assertive tannins and mouth-filling fruit. It’s still pretty tightly wound, so laying this down could well allow it to stretch its legs in a couple of years. (647 cases, 14.3% alc.) Tefft Cellars $18 2005 Villarocca, Rattlesnake Hills This Super Tuscan-style blend includes Sangiovese

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

native Piedmont, and resulting wines show off darkertoned fruit and pair well with beef-based dishes. Z I N FA N D E L : A lot of controversy surrounds this grape’s origins. It’s widely planted and most revered in California, particularly in the Dry Creek Valley but also in the Central, Napa and Alexander valleys. Scientists have determined Zinfandel is identical to Crljenak Kastelanski, a Croatian grape. They also believe it is closely related to Primitivo. It’s traditionally Italian, however, thus included in this judging. This should go without saying, but Zinfandel is a red grape; “White Zinfandel” is usually a lowly regarded rosé invented in California. P R I M I T I V O : There is much debate in academic circles about the origin of this grape. Geneticists conclude Zinfandel and Primitivo are different clones with the same parentage. The federal government lists the two as separate varieties, not synonyms. It is likely Croatian in origin and Italian in tradition.

(75%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (25%). It opens with aromas of dried cherries, sweet spices and vanilla and gives way to bold cherry and raspberry flavors with assertive tannins. (105 cases, 13.5% alc.) Pontin del Roza $18 2007 Angelo Pontin Sangiovese, Yakima Valley This is a complex wine with aromas of lavender, raspberries and cedar, as well as robust flavors of Rainier cherries. Enjoy with a hearty plate of lasagna. (350 cases, 13.9% alc.) Quenett Cellars $20 2005 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley This Zin reveals aromas and flavors of forest floor and notes of raspberries and red currants. It’s a rich wine that should pair well with grilled and barbecued meats. (227 cases, 15.7% alc.) Basalt Cellars $26 2005 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Washington’s Columbia Valley is some 11 million acres in size, and the far eastern edge is Clarkston, Wash., home to Basalt Cellars. This wine reveals aromas and flavors of bright, tangy cherries and clean, bright acidity. This would be perfect with Pasta Puttanesca. (112 cases, 13.9% alc.) Ferraro Cellar $21 2005 Hellsgate Canyon Vineyard Zinfandel, Columbia Valley This Newberg, Ore. producer focuses on grapes from the Columbia Valley. This Zin reveals aromas and flavors of red plums, Rainier cherries and leathery notes. It should pair well with lamb chops or prime rib. (30 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Vineyards for this northern Italian grape. It’s a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of lush dark fruit and chocolate. Solid tannins and acidity provide structure for pairing with a hearty meal. Quality wines at affordable prices are common from this downtown operation. (432 cases, 14% alc.) Kyra Wines $18 2005 Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope Using fruit from their estate Pheasant Vineyard, Kyra and Bruce Baerlocher of Moses Lake, Wash., have crafted a tasty Sangiovese with aromas of chocolate, coffee and cherries and flavors of cranberries with plenty of structure. (385 cases, 14.3% alc.) Waving Tree Winery $40 2005 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Nebbiolo, Horse Heaven Hills Coyote Canyon is a 900-acre vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, and it was planted in 1994. This delicious Nebbiolo by this Goldendale, Wash., winery reveals black cherries and blackberries, along with big tannins typical of this variety. (99 cases, 13.8% alc.) Maryhill Winery $32 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This supple wine reveals aromas and flavors of sweet spices and ripe Rainier cherries. Assertive tannins balance with all the fruit and acidity, making this a wine to pair well with boldly flavored food. (667 cases, 14.5% alc.) ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Best buy!

Northwest.

Lone Canary Winery $15 2006 Barbera, Wahluke Slope Spokane winemaker Mike Scott turned to Milbrandt

JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

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Marshal’s Winery World-class wines, great selection with small production quality Taste our new releases! 2006 Lemberger 2004 Merlot 2006 Syrah Tasting Room Open daily: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. 150 Oak Creek Rd, Dallesport, WA 1/4 mile E of Hwy 197 & Hwy 14 interchange

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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY

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AWA R D S

Ten years after:

Welcome to the Herbies BY ERIC DEGERMAN

A RT W O R K B Y K E N S U S Y N S K I

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

Ocean Crest Resort in Moclips, Wash., has a beautiful view of the wooded Pacific shoreline from its dining room.

nlike some magazines, there’s no charge to enter the annual Wine Press Northwest wine list competition. However, there is a change to announce. Welcome to the debut of the Wine Press Northwest/Herbfarm wine list awards. In fact, the worthy restaurant that features wines of the Pacific Northwest will be recognized with “The Herbie.” There are reasons for this. 1 ) Ron Zimmerman, co-proprietor of the Herbfarm, created a dynasty akin to that of the Ming in China or the Celtics of Boston. Zimmerman won the overall title for the previous eight years, and we don’t foresee anyone rivaling the Herbfarm’s depth and devotion to the Pacific

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Northwest wine industry. That said, part of our agreement with Zimmerman is that he can/will re-enter when he feels it necessary. 2 ) The domination of the Herbfarm made it difficult to create a fresh layout each year. 3 ) We wanted to spotlight different restaurants. 4 ) The timing seemed right. The Spring 2008 issue marked our 10year anniversary as a publication, and the Herbfarm staff commemorated the occasion by playing host to a historic public Match Maker dinner with Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Each year, we use the wine list competition to determine candidates for future restaurant features. Restaurants among our Match Maker alumni are denoted with an i .

BEST NORTHWEST WINE LIST O C E A N C R E S T R E S O RT M O C L I P S , WA S H . PROGRAM: Nowhere near wine country, yet a delicious and affordable taste of all four corners. Seafood lovers find a solid selection of Oregon Pinot Gris and Washington Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Riesling. British Columbia checks in with Mission Hill (Oculus, Chardonnay), Osoyoos LaRose and Tinhorn Creek dessert (Kerner). Idaho has Ste. Chapelle (Chenin Blanc, Riesling). More than 50 Pinot Noirs from Oregon. P O L I C I E S : New wine director

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Stephen Pavletich maintains tradition. Two dozen wines by the glass include Domaine Ste. Michelle brut and four desserts. Seven themed flights of three placed in tasting order on “wine tree.” No price gouging as Cayuse 2004 Cailloux Syrah (retail $60 upon release to club members) is here at $74. P R E S S I N G S : Annual series of 10 winemaker dinners begins Sept. 19 with Cadaretta of Walla Walla. i 4651 Highway 109, Moclips, Wash., 98562, 800-684-8439, oceancrestresort.com.

OUTSTANDING NORTHWEST WINE LISTS B O N N E V I L L E H O T S P R I N G S R E S O RT, B O N N E V I L L E , WA S H . P R O G R A M : Book opens with “Columbia Gorge Collection” of multiple wines from 14 producers within an hour’s drive. Oregon/ Washington dominate remaining 25 pages. P O L I C I E S : Reasonable pricing. Gorge winemakers listed by name. P R E S S I N G S : Tastings in lobby Friday/Saturday nights ($15) feature local wines/fruit/cheese.

1252 E. Cascade Dr., North Bonneville, WA, 98639, 509-427-9711, bonnevilleresort.com. B R I X 2 5 , G I G H A R B O R , WA S H .

Details of wine akin to The Herbfarm. Research, dedication show with producers big and boutique in Washington/Oregon. P O L I C I E S : It’s 100% Northwest. Fairly priced. PRESSINGS: Bubbles include Domaine Ste. Michelle’s Luxe, three from Argyle. Categories start with least expensive. Vineyard sources listed. Tacoma critic hated writing rave review as it meant editors no longer would need to pay for his “research” there. PROGRAM:

7707 Pioneer Way, Gig Harbor, WA, 98335, 253-858-6626, harborbrix.com. C A F E TA S H T E G O

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PA C I F I C B E A C H , WA S H .

Miles Batchelder, creator of Ocean Crest’s program, moved down the beach to new Seabrook resort with NW concept on smaller scale. Coeur d’Alene represents Idaho. P O L I C I E S : Diners grab bottles off display wall. Anything available by the glass at quarter-bottle price. P R E S S I N G S : Peninsula wineries Olympic Cellars, Walter Dacon, Westport offered. Fancier of Walla Walla and Ken Wright. PROGRAM:

5 W. Myrtle Lane, Seabrook, Pacific Beach, WA, 98571, 360-276-4884, tashtegocafe.com. C A S C A D E D I N I N G R O O M AT TIMBERLINE LODGE, MOUNT HOOD P R O G R A M : In compiling a list that breaks down rivalries, David Villali steps deeply into Oregon and Washington. Of the all-Northwest glass pours — more than a third are north of Columbia River. P O L I C I E S : Weekly tastings by staff determine list. Trips to Willamette Valley show with more than 200 labels of Pinot Noir. P R E S S I N G S : Winner of “Best Oregon” title from 2003-2007. Assortment of Ken Wright Pinot Noir is dozen strong.

i The Cascade Dining Room, Timberline Lodge, OR, 97028, 503-622-0700, timberlinelodge.com. 42ND STREET CAFE S E AV I E W, WA S H . P R O G R A M : Wines from either Washington or Oregon with foodfriendly producers such as Amity, Chinook and McCrea. Blue Mountain brut represents B.C. P O L I C I E S : Concise assortment at bargain prices. P R E S S I N G S : Open breakfast, lunch, dinner.

4201 Pacific Way, Seaview, WA, 98644, 360-642-2323, 42ndstreetcafe.com. 9 4 S T E WA RT R E S TA U R A N T, S E AT T L E

Large investment in Washington and Oregon, a dash of Rhône-style wines by Coeur d’Alene. P O L I C I E S : No corkage on Sunday PROFILE:

nights. P R E S S I N G S : Features quality from wineries off the beaten path such as Bunnell, Capstone, Phelps Creek, Two Mountain, Willis Hall.

94 Stewart St., Seattle, 98101, 206-441-5505, 94stewart.com S T E E L H E A D D I N E R , S E AT T L E

Pike Place Market spot seeks to represent each grape variety in the Northwest, and it’s a thoughtful construction with few large production wineries in the mix. The fascinating collection includes Albarino (Abacela), Arneis (Ponzi), Baco Noir (Girardet), Counoise (McCrea), Gruner Veltliner (Daedalus), Madeleine Angevine (Whidbey Island), Melon (De Ponte), Pinot Auxerrois (Gray Monk) and Siegerrebe (San Juan). Idaho checks in with Ste. Chapelle Riesling ice wine. P O L I C I E S : Jessica Skye Bolt’s motto, “Nothing south of Oregon, Nothing east of Idaho.” $20 corkage. P R E S S I N G S : More than a dozen half-bottles, including Mountain Dome bubbles. Nightly wine/food pairings for each course. PROGRAM:

95 Pine St., Suite 17, Seattle, 98101, 206-625-0129. S U N M O U N TA I N L O D G E W I N T H R O P, WA S H . P R O G R A M : Lots of reds and whites from Washington. Enough Oregon Pinot Noir, including Beaux Freres, to satisfy. Also Mission Hill (B.C.) and Ste. Chapelle (Idaho). P O L I C I E S : Logo of Mount Stuart points out each of many North Cascade wines. P R E S S I N G S : House wines made by Maryhill. Snow season means winemaker dinners.

i 604 Patterson Lake Rd., Winthrop, WA, 98862, 800-572-0493, sunmountainlodge.com WAT E R F R O N T S E A F O O D G R I L L S E AT T L E P R O G R A M : No bargains, but a starstudded lineup of Columbia and Willamette valleys with young bou-

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best wine lists P O L I C I E S : Bargains. And there are many. Andrew Will 2005 Sorella is $70, which is a wine shop price. P R E S S I N G S : A dozen Walla Walla reds in half-bottles includes Helix 2003 Pomatia for $16.

i 104 W. Woodin, Chelan, 98816, 800-553-8225, campbellsresort.com.

OUTSTANDING WASHINGTON WINE LISTS B E L L A I TA L I A , P O RT A N G E L E S

George Van Over tends bar at Campbell’s Resort in addition to overseeing their wine list.

P R O F I L E : Plenty of quality Washington reds/Oregon Pinot Noir. P O L I C I E S : In-state Sangiovese leads with Leonetti vertical, includes Barnard Griffin rosé. P R E S S I N G S : Solid assortment of food-friendly Cab Franc.

Bella Italia, 118 E. First St., Port Angeles, 98362, 360-457-5442, bellaitaliapa.com. E L G A U C H O , S E AT T L E

Columbia Valley Cabs and high-end blends give patrons plenty to chew on. P O L I C I E S : Of the three El Gaucho properties, regional wines get the biggest play here, particularly Walla Walla and Red Mountain. P R E S S I N G S : Meet the Winemaker series runs monthly. PROGRAM:

tiques (Efeste, Gorman, Va Piano) for spice. P O L I C I E S : Rarely seen glass pours include Woodward Canyon’s 2005 Artist Series Cab ($30). Winemaker dinners run almost monthly. P R E S S I N G S : One page devoted to wineries in the Seattle area. Available are hard-to-find Cabs by Barons V and Boudreaux’s reserve, as well as a handful of half-bottles from famed producers. i 2801 Alaskan Way, Pier 70, Seattle, 98121, 206-956-9171, www.waterfrontpier70.com

BEST WASHINGTON WINE LIST C A M P B E L L’ S R E S O RT, C H E L A N

Strong support of neighbors such as Benson, Nefarious and Tildio gives George Van Over fifth straight title. PROGRAM:

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2505 First Ave., Seattle, 98121, 206-728-1337, elgaucho.com. E L G A U C H O , TA C O M A

Big reds from Walla Walla and Woodinville are served with thick steaks. Oregon commands in Pinot Noirs. P O L I C I E S : Pacific Ocean influences virtually every wine here. P R E S S I N G S : Puget Sound area — Andrew Will, Andrake, Donedei, O•S — and several Woodinville cult wineries are represented. PROGRAM:

2119 Pacific Ave., Tacoma, 98402, 253-272-1510, elgaucho.com. I C O N G R I L L , S E AT T L E PROGRAM:

Ste. Michelle Wine

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Estates and Washington wines dominate the two-page list, but there’s space for boutiques Sparkman and Townshend. P O L I C I E S : Few wines sell for more than $60. P R E S S I N G S : Top of front page features Washington Wine Commission logo. 1933 Fifth Ave., Seattle, 98101, 206-441-6330, icongrill.net. IDLE HOUR CAFE AND STEAKHOUSE, QUINCY P R O G R A M : Nearly overtook Campbell’s, still a winner for seven straight years as Gene “Rosy” Rosenberger offers only Washington wines. Glass pours rotate weekly. No wine sold for more than $49, includes Col Solare, Fidelitas, L’Ecole and Reininger. Local wineries such as Benson, Chateau Faire Le Pont, Foxy Roxy, Jones, Martin-Scott and St. Laurent. P O L I C I E S : Corkage $15 for each out-of-stock bottle. Must be special vintage and for special occasion. Wine served in Riedel. P R E S S I N G S : Don’t empty the bottle? It’s recorked and sent home with you.

i 18 B. Street SE, Quincy, 98848, 509-787-3714, idlehourcafe.com. M A X AT M I R A B E A U R E S A U RTA N T A N D L O U N G E , S P O K A N E VA L L E Y P R O G R A M : Spokane and east of Cascades is target. P O L I C I E S : Latah Creek, Mountain Dome among locals. Northwest bargains include Saviah’s The Jack and Abacela’s Vintners Blend. P R E S S I N G S : First Wednesday reception highlights local artist and wine tasting.

1100 N. Sullivan Road, Spokane Valley, 99037, 509-922-6252, maxatmirabeau.com. PICAZO 717, PROSSER P R O G R A M : Chef Frank Magana proudly casts his spotlight on Yakima Valley producers. Aside from the reserve list, prices hover around $40 or less, with Chinook’s Cab

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Franc ($36) a prime example. P O L I C I E S : Best line of the competition: Corkage is $15, but it goes up to “$25 for California wines.” P R E S S I N G S : Wednesday nights become a gathering point for area winemakers. Magana’s winemaker dinners are amazing values. 717 Sixth St., Prosser, 509-786-1116, 99350, picazo717.com. P O RT F O L I O , S E AT T L E PROGRAM:

Working and training

restaurant for Art Institute of Seattle’s culinary school. P O L I C I E S : Corkage is $10. Aside from aperitifs, this succinct list is 100% Washington. Half of placings go to wines by vintners who staged winemaker dinners here. P R E S S I N G S : Dieter Schafer’s weekly public tasting seminars on fifth floor focus on state wines.

P R O G R A M : Walla Walla reds and Willamette Valley Pinot Noir reign. P O L I C I E S : Phyllis McGavick, a partner in restaurant, funds college scholarship via sales of her McGavick wines at Primo/Crown Bar. P R E S S I N G S : Chef McManus is cousin of Andrew Will’s Chris Carmada.

2600 Alaskan Way, Seattle, 98121, 206-239-2363, artinstitutes.edu.

i 601 S. Pine St., Tacoma, 98405, 253-383-7000, primogrilltacoma.com.

t was only a matter of time. We won eight straight. And, unless you’re Michael Phelps at the Olympics, there’s no drama in having the same guy climb the podium time and again. So we’re taking our eight gold medals and are retiring from Wine Press Northwest’s “Best Northwest Wine List” contest. Call me “Coach,” if you wish. The Herbfarm’s 3,000 regional wine selections (and another 1,500 from “those other places”) will stand as our own Olympic record of sorts. I congratulate this year’s winner of the first-ever “Herbie,” the new Best Northwest Wine List. We’re honored to have this award named after The Herbfarm. As a native Northwesterner, it’s still amazing

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P R I M O G R I L L , TA C O M A

to see this regional explosion of wine. When I was a kid, fortified table-grape wines were Washington’s forté. Oregon wasn’t even a player. And then it all changed. David Lett set up shop in Oregon. Leonetti Cellar started showing up on lists of the Top 100 wines of the year. New wineries were opening one on top of the other. Now, there are more than 1,000 wineries that one could reach in a hard day’s drive from our restaurant here in Woodinville. You are living in the Golden Age of Northwest Wine. Support the restaurants that support our regional producers. Go forth and enjoy! And don’t forget: if you want something really rare, it’s probably on our list! — RON ZIMMERMAN P R O P R I E T O R , T H E H E R B FA R M

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tures more than 20 Northwest wines not only by-the-glass, but also by the half-glass. P R E S S I N G S : Weekly tastings and live music in the bar four nights a week. It’s in the Hyatt Regency, making dinner & bed an option. 900 Bellevue Way, Suite 100, Bellevue, 98004, 425-637-0808, seafoodgrill.com. S E A G R I L L , TA C O M A

Brief list concentrates on Walla Walla and Woodinville. P O L I C I E S : A dozen wines by the glass to be enjoyed on the only patio downtown, which can be reserved. P R E S S I N G S : Monthly winemaker dinners include Gifford Hirlinger, Nicholas Cole and Saviah. PROGRAM:

1498 Pacific Ave., Suite 300, Tacoma, 98402, 253-272-5656, the-seagrill.com. T R O I A N I R I S T O R A N T E I TA L I A N O , S E AT T L E

The Joel Palmer House in Dayton is on the Oregon and National Historic Registers. PURPLE CAFE AND WINE BAR, KIRKLAND P R O G R A M : Flights by samples pit Northwest vs. the world or NW vs. NW. Big on Oregon Pinot Noir and reds in Washington. Merlots focus on Walla Walla. P O L I C I E S : If they don’t have it, there’s no corkage on first bottle. Taste any wine-by-the-glass offering. Half-glasses available. P R E S S I N G S : B.C. ice wine shows up with Mission Hill. Informative glossary of wine terms in the back.

323 Park Place, Kirkland, 98033, 425-828-3772, thepurplecafe.com PURPLE CAFE AND WINE BAR, S E AT T L E P R O G R A M : Similar NW representation to Kirkland with subtle differences and a bit more depth. Reserve list — called Double Top Secret — is heavy on Andrew Will, Domaine Serene, DeLille and Leonetti. P O L I C I E S : Same as Kirkland. P R E S S I N G S : Page on Argyle’s Nuthouse Pinot Noir talks about vintner Rollin Soles, “maybe some

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find Rollin a little nuts, but the best kind of nuts.” Three-ring binder allows staff to merely remove page when wine is sold out, not reprint. 1225 Fourth Ave., Seattle, 98101, 206-829-2280, thepurplecafe.com PURPLE CAFE AND WINE BAR, WOODINVILLE P R O G R A M : Similar to other two properties with representation by nearby wineries as Baer, Betz, Januik, Mark Ryan, Note Bene. P O L I C I E S : Same as Kirkland and Seattle. P R E S S I N G S : “Oddball reds” include Girardet’s Baco and blends such as Bunnell’s Vif, Isenhower’s Last Straw and Gorman’s Evil Twin.

i 14459 Woodindville-Redmond Road NE, Woodinville, 98072, 425-483-7129, thepurplecafe.com SEAFOOD GRILL & TWISTED CORK WINE BAR, BELLEVUE P R O G R A M : Strong focus on Woodinville wine. Goes 6-for-7 on Long Shadows portfolio. Delivers dozen premier Oregon Pinot Noirs. P O L I C I E S : Michael Anderson fea-

P R O G R A M : It’s definitely Italian, but there’s a decent showing of Washington reds, including some whites by the glass. P O L I C I E S : They check in with Col Solare, Maryhill Zin, Long Shadows’ Saggi (a Super Tuscan) and Wilridge’s Nebbiolo. P R E S S I N G S : Pairing/tasting lineup this fall with young Washington wineries reads Tiger Mountain, Cedergreen, Airfield, Saint Laurent, Wilridge, Fall Line and Covington.

1001 Third Ave., Seattle, 98104, 206-624-4060, troianiseattle.com. 2 6 B R I X , WA L L A WA L L A

Veritable A (áMaurice) to Z (Zerba) of Walla Walla Valley. Of the 24 glass pours, 20 are local. POLICIES: Corkage $30 if on the list; non-list is $15. Half the list is Walla Walla (for tourists). Half is world (per local winemakers request). P R E S S I N G S : Unique varieties showcase work of Morrison Lane and Yellow Hawk. PROGRAM:

i 207 W. Main St., Walla Walla, 99362, 509-526-4075, twentysixbrix.com. ZEPHYR GRILL & BAR, KENT PROGRAM:

List mimics that of

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aforementioned sister property Icon Grill. A brief but affordable offering of Oregon Pinot Noir. P O L I C I E S : Half bottles of Ste. Michelle provide options. P R E S S I N G S : Take the train to dinner. i 240 W. Kent Station, Kent, 253-854-5050, zephyrgrill.com.

BEST OREGON WINE LIST J O E L PA L M E R H O U S E , D AY T O N P R O G R A M : The Czarneckis give Oregon a Burgundian feel by combining truffles and Pinot Noir in a 150-year-old home. P O L I C I E S : If it’s not Oregon, it’s not listed. Zerba of Walla Walla Valley gets on — it’s in Milton-Freewater. P R E S S I N G S : No shame asking for the house Pinot Noir (Sineann), Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley Vineyards) or Riesling (Amity).

i 600 Ferry St., Dayton, 97114, 503-864-2995, joelpalmerhouse.com

OUTSTANDING OREGON WINE LISTS BRIDGEVIEW BISTRO, ASTORIA

The Kischners left Long Beach peninsula after 28 years, bringing along scaled-down version of The Shoalwater’s regional wine approach. P O L I C I E S : Flights of three paired with tapas promote food & wine concept. P R E S S I N G S : Tony Kischner began winemaker dinner trend in Northwest during the 1980s. PROGRAM:

20 Basin St., Astoria, 97103, 503-325-6777, bridgewaterbistro.com.

Three-hour dinners at Sooke Harbor House give you time to peruse the wine list, take in the artful décor and enjoy the meal.

Noirs in Willamette Valley. P R E S S I N G S : Winemakers often gather here. 729 NE Third St., McMinnville, 97128, 503-474-1888, bistromaison.com. E L G A U C H O , P O RT L A N D

One of the Rose City’s great steakhouses serves up Pinot Noir and big reds from Walla Walla. P O L I C I E S : Pinot and primos are welcomed in the cigar lounge. P R E S S I N G S : Half-bottles include Domaine Serene’s 2004 Jerusalem Hill and RoxyAnn 2005 Claret. PROGRAM:

i 319 SW Broadway, Portland, 97205, 503-227-8794, elgaucho.com.

BISTRO MAISON, MCMINNVILLE

Owners are French, but their Pinot Noirs are local. P O L I C I E S : Most bottles in $50-$60 range. Walls of this quaint and friendly spot serve as shrine to Pinot PROGRAM:

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GEISER GRAND HOTEL, BAKER CITY P R O G R A M : Targets Burgundy-style wines from Oregon. Appreciates price/quality of Precept. Devotee of Jason Bull, now at David Hill.

P O L I C I E S : Lack of distribution prompts Barbara Sidway to haul Willamette Valley wines from her second home in Ribbon Ridge. P R E S S I N G S : Wine appreciation weekend each spring features WPNW’s Eric Degerman.

i 1996 Main St., Baker City, 97814, 888-434-7374, geisergrand.com. HAMLEY STEAKHOUSE, PENDLETON P R O G R A M : The McLaughlin brothers set their sights on big reds from Walla Walla cult producers, some of Washington’s promising boutique wineries and Oregon’s premier Pinot Noir houses. P O L I C I E S : Tours of expansive wine cellar available on request. P R E S S I N G S : House wines have been made by Jean François-Pellet of Pepper Bridge/Amavi.

i 8 SE Court Ave., Pendleton, 97801,

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best wine lists stands tall in $4 million enterprise. P R E S S I N G S : Chris & Tyanne Dussin own young Ribbon Ridge vineyard and are ex-partners in Penner-Ash. Biddle won our “Best Oregon” award in 2001 for Atwaters. 1910 SW River Dr., Portland, 97201, 503-222-7300, lucier-portland.com. M U LT N O M A H AT H L E T I C C L U B , P O RT L A N D P R O G R A M : Ken Wright makes sizable impression, especially with Pinot Noir and Tyrus Evan line. Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc from Oregon, along with Ste. Michelle whites. P O L I C I E S : Wines by the glass reasonably priced for members. P R E S S I N G S : History lives in the Ponzi 1999 Reserve Pinot Noir.

1849 SW Salmon St., Portland, 97205, 503-223-6251, themac.com. RIVERSIDE GRILL, HOOD RIVER

Columbia Gorge wineries on both sides take stage in this Best Western hotel. P O L I C I E S : Inviting prices. Glass of organic Cooper Mountain Pinot Gris ($7). P R E S S I N G S : Cross-section of Peter Rosback’s work. PROGRAM:

541-278-1100, thehamleysteakhouse.com. H 5 0 B I S T R O & B A R , P O RT L A N D

New $7 millon hotel/bistro targets established instate red and white Burgundy-style producers. Common threads are Penner-Ash and Ken Wright. P O L I C I E S : Oregon-only approach to Pinot Noir. P R E S S I N G S : Washington among Cabs in 800-bottle dining room display. PROGRAM:

Hotel 50, 50 SW Morrison, Portland, 97204, 503-484-1415, H50bistro.com. L U C I E R , P O RT L A N D

Opened this spring with 18,000-bottle inventory and 2,000 labels. Building regional focus. Few know our region better than sommelier Jim Biddle. P O L I C I E S : Homegrown Pinot Noir PROGRAM:

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Riverside Inn, Best Western, 1108 E Marina Way, Hood River, 97031, 541-386-2200, bestwesternoregon.com. T H E H E AT H M A N R E S TA U R A N T A N D B A R , P O RT L A N D P R O G R A M : Reasonable display of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir favors J.K. Carrier, Ken Wright and Westrey. P O L I C I E S : Responsible approach with more than dozen of Pinot Noir in half-bottles. P R E S S I N G S : Solid showing of Washington reds.

1001 SW Broadway, Portland, 97201, 800-551-0011, portland.heathmanhotel.com. W I L D W O O D R E S TA U R A N T & B A R , P O RT L A N D P R O G R A M : A concentration on Pinot Noirs from Oregon. Strong blast of renowned Washington Cabs. P O L I C I E S : One listing for each of the 30 Pinot Noir producers repre-

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sented, most from 2006 vintage. P R E S S I N G S : Jeff Moore’s history includes ordering for Boise’s famous neon wine tower at Red Feather. 1221 NW 21st Ave., Portland, 97209, (503) 248-9663, wildwoodrestaurant.com. S T E A M B O AT I N N , S T E A M B O AT P R O G R A M : Nearby wines from likes of Abacela, Brandborg, Henry, Reustle joined by Willamette Valley houses such as Bethel Heights, Dobbes, Elk Cove, Ponzi, Rex Hill, Yamhill Valley. P O L I C I E S : Nightly dinner program akin to that at Herbfarm with Oregon wines as centerpiece to each course. P R E S S I N G S : Spring guest chef/winemaker dinners, a who’s who of Oregon, mark reopening of resort.

42705 N. Umpqua Highway, Steamboat, 97447, 800-840-8825, thesteamboatinn.com. THE DUNDEE BISTRO, DUNDEE P R O F I L E : Ponzi owns/operates, but you can’t tell because of remarkable support for other Willamette Valley producers. P O L I C I E S : Open daily. Approachable pricing. Array of halfbottles. P R E S S I N G S : Gathering place for winemakers. Ponzi Wine Bar — and shop — just steps away.

i 100-A SW Seventh St., Dundee, 97115, 503-554-1650, dundeebistro.com.

BEST B.C. WINE LIST SOOKE HARBOUR HOUSE, SOOKE P R O F I L E : Sinclair Philip’s globetrotting accounts for 15,000 bottles and 2,700 labels. Provincial wines, more than 50 wineries are featured, take center stage each night for food/wine pairings featuring indigenous ingredients. P O L I C I E S : Cellars tours offered each day by appointment. Allot

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three hours for dinner. P R E S S I N G S : History includes 1979 Cabs from Leonetti ($400) and Quilceda Creek ($450), The Eyrie 1975 South Block Pinot Noir ($180) and Canada’s first ice wine — Hainle 1978 Okanagan Valley Riesling ($500) for half-bottle. i 1528 Whiffen Spit, Sooke, V0S 1N0, 250-642-3421, sookeharbourhouse.com.

P R E S S I N G S : Yankee reds appear from Walla Walla and Dundee Hills.

231 Bernard Ave., Kelowna, V1Y 6N2, 250-717-8466, rottengrape.com.

BEST IDAHO WINE LIST

O ’ D O U L’ S R E S TA U R A N T & B A R , VA N C O U V E R P R O F I L E : Calvin DesChene spotlights Blue Mountain, Burrowing Owl and Naramata producers Kettle Valley, LaFrenz, Joie. P O L I C I E S : Helpful listing by style and structure. Listel Hotel keeps reasonable pricing. Mission Hill in various formats. P R E S S I N G S : Washington offerings include Barnard Griffin and Reininger.

The Listel Hotel and O’Doul’s Restaurant & Bar, 1300 Robson Street, Vancouver, V6E 1C5, 604-661-1406, odoulsrestaurant.com

SANDBAR RIVER HOUSE, MARSING

Idaho winemakers buzz about this year-old operation. Half of Idaho’s wineries appear on this list, including Bitner, Cinder, Fraser, Indian Creek, Parma Ridge, Pend d’Oreille and Wood River — formerly known as The Winery at Eagle Knoll. P O L I C I E S : Keep dollars local. Most expensive Idaho wine costs $50. P R E S S I N G S : In historic brick Masonic temple.

Only six wineries represented, each nearby — Bitner, Hells Canyon, Indian Creek, Koenig, Ste. Chapelle, Sawtooth. P O L I C I E S : No pretense. Perhaps the least expensive list in Northwest. They sell no wine for more than $30. P R E S S I N G S : Deck nearly hangs over Snake River.

320 11th Ave. S., Nampa, 83651, 208-468-0029, brick29.com.

OUTSTANDING IDAHO WINE LISTS KETCHUM GRILL, KETCHUM, IDAHO

P R O F I L E : Page after page devoted to Okanagan Valley wineries big and small. Greek cuisine and fun atmosphere matches well. P O L I C I E S : Don’t try to bring in your own bottle. P R E S S I N G S : First list (1976) had one B.C. wine. Now, there are bubbles from four provincial producers.

P R O F I L E : Californians rule Sun Valley, yet Eugene native Scott Mason carries Idaho torch with Cinder, Phantom Hill, Sawtooth, Ste. Chapelle and Frenchman’s Gulch — the latter just a short walk away. P O L I C E S : Northwest knowledge with Burgundy styles from Willamette Valley Burgundies and Walla Walla reds. P R E S S I N G S : Helped found Sun Valley Food & Wine Festival.

687 Main St., Penticton, V2A 5C9, 250-492-4019, eatsquid.com.

i 520 East Ave., Ketchum, 83340, 208-726-4660, ketchumgrill.com.

T H E O ’ S R E S TA U R A N T, P E N T I C T O N

105 W. Sixth, Moscow, 83843, 208-882-5914, moscownectar.com.

B R I C K 2 9 B I S T R O , N A M PA PROFILE:

OUTSTANDING B.C. WINE LISTS

Pinot Noir, change weekly. Leonetti by-the-glass ($25) did well. P R E S S I N G S : The Woodlands left Portland food scene in 2007 to start own restaurant in this college town.

PROFILE:

18 First Ave. W. Marsing, 83639, 208-896-4124, sandbarriverhouse.com.

BEST MONTANA WINE LIST M C G A R RY ’ S R O A D H O U S E , W H I T E F I S H , M O N T. P R O F I L E : The Nogals’ list ranked among Washington’s best while running Whidbey Island’s The Inn at Langley. Even in Montana it’s still stronger than many in Washington. P O L I C I E S : Reasonable pricing, with Chinook Cabernet Franc rosé ($24) as example. Heavy on McCrea and supportive of Walla Walla. P R E S S I N G S : This fall marks their fifth anniversary in Big Sky country.

510 Wisconsin Ave., Whitefish, Mont., 59937, 406-862-6223, mcgarrysroadhouse.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press

THE ROTTEN GRAPE, KELOWNA

Light-hearted approach but serious on provincial wines, particularly Naramata Bench, with flights available. P O L I C I E S : Blazing trail with selfserve policy using automated Enomatic preservation system. PROFILE:

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N E C TA R , M O S C O W, I D A H O

Inland Empire products stick close to home with Clearwater Canyon, Coeur’d Alene and Merry. Big on Dunham, L’Ecole, Maryhill, Ryan Patrick. Bubbles from Argyle and Mountain Dome. P O L I C I E S : Flights include Oregon PROFILE:

Northwest. Email him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. KE N S U S Y N S KI is a Seattle artist who specializes in wine countr y art and whose artwork has accompanied this competition’s results for many years. His Web site is susynski.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountr yCreations.com.

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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WINE COUNTRY: PROSSER

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WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA VALLEY EXIT 52 off I-82 at Zillah

Join Us

“Help Stomp Out Breast Cancer”

Open Daily: 10 am-6 pm

Grape Stomp October 4 & Thanksgiving In Wine Country Nov 28-30 www.claarcellars.com

509-829-6810

Award-Winning Wines Tasting Room open: Daily 10 am - 5 pm 530 Gurley Rd., Granger, WA 98932

1-866-EATON HILL

Desert Hills Winery See us for your wine & gift baskets! 1208 North 1st St. Yakima, WA (Exit 31 off 1-82 Go 1/2 mi., on right)

Tasting Room hours: Mon.-Fri. 10-4 Saturday 10-5 or by appointment Join us for our new releases! Cab Franc & Five Vines

www.deserthillswinery.com • 509-453-0503

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WINE COUNTRY: YAMHILL COUNTY

16425 SE Webfoot Rd., Dayton, Oregon (503) 868-7359 Open for tasting 12-5 weekends & by appt. weekdays

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M AT C H M A K E R S

The Dundee Bistro’s Cucumber and Scallop Carpaccio with Cantaloupe, Vincotto and Crispy Coppa dish paired with Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Arneis.

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➤ F O R M O R E PA I R I N G S ➤ W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M / PA I R I N G

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M AT C H M A K E R S

Scallops & salmon

WINE

Salty & sweet, Ponzi & Pendleton

Ponzi Vineyards $20 2007 Arneis, Willamette Valley —662 cases produced, 13.4% alcohol

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

THE DUNDEE BISTRO DUNDEE, ORE.

DON’T TELL ANYBODY, BUT JASON Stoller Smith loves working with and for Richard and Nancy Ponzi. “I have a chef ’s dream job,” he said with a smile. “A lot of chefs feel like they get to eat like kings. I positioned myself so that I get to eat and drink like a king at the same time. “I don’t like to get that out there because then everyone will want to be a chef in wine country,” he added. Where does the envy come from? “Portland,” he said. The job certainly didn’t get served up to Stoller Smith, which explains why he’s been at The Dundee Bistro for eight years of its 10-year history. “I bugged the Ponzi family for a good eight months to get in,” he recalled. “They already had a chef at that point, so it was a matter of waiting it out to see what happened. He moved on, and I interviewed for them for two days. I cooked for the whole family four days straight. It turns out they liked what I was doing.” Stoller Smith, age 37, is a man in demand. His apron strings get pulled in

many directions. There are requests for appearances and contributing recipes for books. He also sits on the board of directors for the International Pinot Noir Celebration, arguably the premier wine event in the Northwest. The common thread for his participation in events is staying local, which starts with the Ponzi family. “It’s always been Nancy Ponzi’s vision for the restaurant to have local and sustainably farmed food, as well as highlight the wines of the area,” Stoller Smith said. “It’s been under her guidance that I really developed my menu and cooking style.” Perhaps most astounding is the manner in which the Ponzis promote more than just their wines at The Dundee Bistro and adjacent Ponzi Wine Bar and Tasting Room. “That’s why you have the wall of wines that you have here,” Stoller Smith pointed out. “How many tasting rooms are selling this number of other people’s wines? The focus has been the area as whole, not just their business. We’re all here for each other.” As a member of a military family, Stoller Smith grew up in various regions of the country and the world. Mom cooked during the weekdays. “On the weekends, my dad took the helm of the

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ach issue, Wine Press Northwest sends wine to two chefs with a passion for our region’s wines. The chefs are asked to match a recipe to the selected wine. In this case, we were required to ship the wine to just one restaurant. That’s because the other restaurant was The Dundee (Ore.) Bistro — owned by the Ponzi family of Ponzi Vineyards. And Luisa Ponzi is the only Oregon winemaker to produce a wine with this variety from Italy’s Piedmont region. Her family became enchanted with the grape during vacations in Italy and visits with the Currado family of Vietti Winery. By 1991, the Ponzis began planting Arneis in their Aurora Vineyard, which has an elevation ranging from 300-600 feet. The block is within the 65-acre site in Laurelwood soil on Chehalem Mountain. It’s also adjacent to a block of Dolcetto, an Italian red variety. “The vineyard is up by Dick and Nancy Ponzi’s house, and there’s just a small portion of it planted to Arneis,” said executive chef Jason Stoller Smith. “It’s just one of those special wines that when it comes in, you want to get it before it’s gone.” Luisa, who has produced the wines at Ponzi since 1993, presses the fruit in whole clusters, then lets the juice settle for 24 hours. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel at low temperatures. She stops malolactic fermentation at 50 percent to maintain the crispness that chefs relish. Delicious balance is achieved with the alcohol in check at 13.4% and acidity at 3.18 pH. It is finished virtually dry with residual sugar of 0.48%. Production for this wine is tiny, but demand is high. It was released in February, and it was long gone by June. Even the Ponzi Wine Bar had none available at the time of this assignment. “Our next release of the Arneis will be spring 2009,” said Laurel Dent, marketing communications coordinator for Ponzi Vineyards. Few white wines prompt thoughts of buying on futures, but this exquisite and unique release warrants such consideration. Or start calling on Groundhog Day.

Ponzi Vineyards, 14665 SW Winery Lane, Beaverton, OR, 503-628-1227, ponziwines.com.

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M AT C H M A K E R S kitchen,” he said. Jason Stoller “That’s when all the Smith is executive cookbooks came out, chef/partner at and he was into the The Dundee Bistro cooking shows. As I got in Dundee, Ore. older, it was my responsibility to cook dinner one night a week for the family, and I was having fun with it.” He worked at restaurants as a college student in Olympia, Wash., to make ends meet, then dropped out of school to accept an executive chef position in Olympia. At that point, he recognized that the Northwest would be where he’d put down roots. His career took off during his four years as he said. “We went up to Mount executive sous chef for Leif Benson Hood and went camping in the at Mount Hood’s Timberline Lodge. woods with him for the first time, “I really learned a lot from Chef and it was really relaxing.” Benson, especially about Oregon There would appear to be no end foods and Oregon products, and I in sight at The Dundee Bistro for gained my appreciation for wine Stoller Smith. It comes into view while working up there,” Stoller with something as simple as his title Smith said. “That really drove me for of executive chef/partner. wanting to be down here in Oregon “It means that I am here for a wine country, and when I got the while,” he said. “Just a little bit of a job here, he was the first one to stake in the business helps keep congratulate me.” everybody in, and in line.” That’s because Oregon’s ingrediHis Match Maker assignment ents afford him all he needs. marked the first time that a restau“I traveled to Manhattan a couple rant got to use a wine made its ownof years ago for a James Beard dinership, but this was a natural — the ner, and I met a lot of chefs who Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Arneis. knew about Oregon products and “I love it,” Stoller Smith said. “It’s told me that I was in a great spot,” a great wine and a great food wine he said. “There are only two or — nice, crisp, light and fruit-forthree places in the country where ward. I love it in the summertime there is this concentration of growchilled down, and in Italy it likes to ers and ranchers focused on quality be paired with sweet and salty products, not just mass producing it. things. It’s traditionally served in That’s what I love about Oregon.” Italy with canteloupe/melon and Food, travel and outdoor activities prosciutto appetizers, and the recipe with his family would seem to be all that I did was kind of reflective of he needs outside of his work at The that with the melon and prosciutto.” Dundee Bistro. “We have a 10-month-old baby The scallops are served raw, which boy, and he’s the focus right now,” won’t bother fans of sushi, but those 78

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less intrepid may need a bit of coaxing. However, Stoller Smith skillfully used the Ponzi Arneis to play off the sweet and salty aspects of the appetizer, which could serve as an entree and easily satisfy a couple. The Dundee Bistro, 100-A SW Seventh St., Dundee, OR, 503-554-1650, dundeebistro.com.

HAMLEY STEAKHOUSE PENDLETON, ORE.

THIS HISTORIC EASTERN OREGON town is famous for its wool and rodeo. And Erik McLaughlin’s latest mission is to help make Pendleton and Hamley synonymous with history and great steak. “We’re looking to make it one of the world’s best steakhouses, and it’s right on the edge of the Walla Walla wine country,” McLaughlin said. Considering his background, it should be an easy chore. “A lot of people who know me think of me as the guy who moved up from San Francisco to bring a lot

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Cucumber and Scallop Carpaccio with Cantaloupe, Vincotto and Crispy Coppa Serves 2

1 2 1 1 1 1

cucumber ounces dry pack, U-10 scallops cantaloupe, scooped into balls tablespoon Champagne vinegar shallot, minced tablespoon Italian flat leafed parsley, minced 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste 1 ounce coppa, julienned and fried in oil until crisp (See Notes below) 2 ounces vincotto (See Notes below) 1. Slice the cucumber and scallops into very thin slices. Arrange on a plate in an alternating pattern into a circle. 2. Top with a stack of the melon balls. 3. In a small bowl, whisk in the vinegar, shallot and parsley. Then, slowly drizzle in oil to make a vinaigrette. 4. Correct seasoning of the vinaigrette with salt and pepper, then drizzle around scallops and cucumbers. 5. Garnish with crispy coppa. 6. Right before serving, drizzle with vincotto.

The centerpiece is the 30-footlong bar from Butte, Mont., in the Slickfork that once rubbed the bellies of Buffalo Bill Cody, Wyatt Earp, Annie Oakley and Teddy Roosevelt. It’s all a part of the $6 million spent by Pearce and Woodfield in renovating the famed Hamely & Co. saddle shop and Western store in connection with the restaurant. At 65,000 square feet, McLaughlin’s family friends provided plenty of room for him and his brother, Chip, to grow the wine program. They continue to home in on the Columbia, Walla Walla and Willamette valleys. It’s heavy on nearby Walla Walla wineries such as Abeja, áMaurice, Dunham, L’Ecole, Leonetti, Saviah and Woodward Canyon. McLaughlin traveled the world as the corporate wine buyer for San Francisco-based Cost Plus World Market. That gives him the perspective to appreciate Northwest wines. “Oregon is making the best Pinot Noirs in the world right now, rivaled only by Burgundy, which had a 2,000-year head start,” he said. “Washington is making some of the

most exciting and unique wines in the country. And Idaho wines are at the breakout stage. The quality is there, and people are just beginning to discover that.” This summer, McLaughlin pulled the plug on his 8th Street Wine Co. in Boise. His was the third downtown Boise restaurant with a Northwest focus to cease operations during the summer, following Moritmer’s Idaho Cuisine and Andrae’s. “I think it’s really sad and unfortunate that some of my friends and I have had to close our restaurants,” McLaughlin said. “I don’t think it’s a reflection of the quality of the restaurants or our ability as business people. It’s a reflection of the marketplace. In a tightening economy, people cut back on their spending on luxury items such as fine dining.” Andrae Bopp, who now has his sights set on Walla Walla, said, “Downtown Boise is pretty much folding up in the restaurant scene. It’s a shame, and it’s no aberration. It will become bars and chains within the next few years.” McLaughlin made Idaho wines a

Notes: Capicola, or coppa, is a traditional Italian cold cut made from pork shoulder or neck and dry-cured. Vincotto is similar to Balsamic vinegar but is made by the slow cooking and reduction of red wine grape must.

of wine experience to Boise, but I’m a kid from ranch stock,” he said. “I was born in Eastern Oregon, and my family on my father’s side were ranchers in Medical Springs.” One of the key ingredients adding to Hamley’s rising fame around the Walla Walla Valley and the Tri-Cities since opening in October 2006 is a thoughtful wine list that’s devoted to the Northwest. “Parley Pearce and Blair Woodfield have opened up the most incredible steakhouse I’ve ever seen,” McLaughlin said. “The facility is first class, and through a very long and strange set of circumstance, we got put together.”

Restaurateur Erik McLaughlin recently closed his 8th Street Wine Company in Boise, seen here, to concentrate his efforts at Hamley Steakhouse in Pendleton, Ore.

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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPES Maple Chile-Glazed Salmon Serves 6

1 1⁄2 cups pure maple syrup 2 ounces chile garlic sauce (See Note below.) 3 ⁄4 cup fresh lime juice 2 tablespoons honey 6 six-ounce salmon filets Kosher or sea salt & fresh-ground pepper Vegetable oil 1 tablespoon butter 1. To make the glaze, mix the first four ingredients together. Set aside. 2. Preheat oven to 375° F. 3. Salt and pepper salmon filets enough to taste. 4. Heat a thin layer of vegetable oil (enough to coat the pan) in a large frying pan (not non-stick) until it is extremely hot. Use vegetable oil, not olive oil, to avoid burning the oil. 5. Place salmon filets in frying pan, sear on high heat until salmon is cooked about 1⁄3 of the way through. Gently slide thin spatula under salmon to separate from pan and turn to sear the other side until the opposite side is cooked 1⁄3 of the way though. 6. Gently slide thin spatula under salmon to separate from pan and remove to a baking dish. Place in oven until firm to touch. 7. Keep frying pan at high temperature on the range. Add pre-mixed ingredients for glaze to the pan. Glaze should start to bubble. With flat spatula, scrape

key component to his Boise operation, one that included wine education classes, but that wasn’t the reason for its failure. “Local consumers and tourists are very, very interested in Idaho wines,” he said. “The thing we struggle with as an industry was getting Idaho wines established with the people called ‘the gatekeepers,’ the restaurateurs and retailers. A lot of people are laboring under the perceptions that they draw upon Idaho wines in the early days. There is a remarkable number of really high quality wines 80

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the remnants of salmon from the pan to mix with glaze. 8. Once it is bubbling nicely, add butter and continue to mix. Reduce heat until it barely simmers. 9. Remove salmon from oven and place on serving plate. Pour glaze from pan over salmon. 10. Serve with Coconut Rice. Note: Huy Fong brand chile garlic sauce can be found at most Asian groceries or gourmet stores. It come in a small red jar with a rooster on the label. Do not confuse with Sambal or Shiracha. Coconut Rice Serves 6

2 1 1⁄2 1 3

cups short grain Calrose rice cups water 8 oz. can coconut milk tablespoons toasted coconut shavings (See Note below) Salt and pepper to taste

Put rice, water, and 3⁄4 of the can of coconut milk in a rice steamer and hit start. 2. When rice is nearly ready (starting to go dry in the steamer), add the rest of the coconut milk, salt and pepper to taste, and the coconut shavings. 3. When steamer is finished, fluff the rice and serve with salmon. 1.

Note: You can toast coconut shavings yourself at 250° F on a bare baking sheet in the oven until they start to turn just golden brown.

coming from Idaho right now.” And yet, it was Oregon’s wine industry that led McLaughlin down his career path. “I was a student at Linfield College in McMinnville, but I was a scholarship kid in need of money to get through college,” he said. “It was in the early ’90s, and around McMinnville at that time were grassseed farms, hazelnut orchards, a steel mill, a Purina dog food factory, a manufactured home plant and a few people making Pinot Noir. I looked at them and said, ‘That wine

thing looks all right.’ “ In fact, he shared a house in college with Todd Hamina, who went on to make wine at Maysara near McMinnville until launching his Biggio-Hamina Winery last year. Employment took McLaughlin through restaurants, wine stores and his own wine brokerage firm before his five-year stint with Cost Plus. McLaughlin, who grew up in Boise, returned home to the Idaho capital in 2001 with his wife to raise his three children. “And I wanted to bring great food and great wine in a casual atmosphere to Boise,” he said. One of the dishes he and his longtime executive chef Dustin Williams brought to Hamley’s was the most popular item on the menu at 8th Street — Maple-Chile Glazed Salmon. And it made for a delicious Match Maker pairing. “I love the Arneis grape, and frankly, I think the Ponzis do a better job with it than a lot of the people in Piedmonte,” McLaughlin said. “In Piedmonte, it tends to be a little waxy and dull, whereas the Ponzi is really fresh, crisp and vibrant.” The maple chile-glazed salmon features sweet elements from the maple syrup, spicy elements from the Vietnamese red chiles, tart acidity elements from the lime juice and savory aspects from the salmon and the salty crust created during the frying process. “It’s a full-palate experience, but the dish could use a bit more acidity to cut the fat of the salmon and the sweetness of the glaze, and that’s what the Ponzi Arneis brought,” McLaughlin said. “It’s a good dish, but it’s a more complete dish because the wine brings what the dish lacks on its own.” Hamley Steakhouse, 8 SE Court, Pendleton, OR, 877-3HAMLEY, www.thehamleysteakhouse.com ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s manag-

ing editor. JACKIE JOHNSTON is a regular contributor and the

page designer for Wine Press Northwest.

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M AT C H M A K E R S

Maple ChileGlazed Salmon with Coconut Rice paired with Ponzi Vineyards 2007 Arneis.

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

Featuring Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com

We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

Amavi Cellars

635 N. 13th Ave., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm www.pepperbridge.com

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both.

Patrick M. Paul specializes in handcrafting small lots of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & their famous Cabernet Franc

Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

Friday 1 - 5 pm • Saturday 12 - 5 pm Sunday 1 - 4 pm

509-527-8400

124 W. Boeing Ave. Ste. #3 • Walla Walla

www.fivestarcellars.com

509-526-0676

Est. 1988

Get acquainted with Walldeaux Smithie at Forgeron Cellars Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM

33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463

Tamarack Cellars 700 C St. Walla Walla, WA (at the airport)

Hours: Mar.-Nov. Thurs. & Fri. 12-4 Sat. & Sun. 10-4

509-526-3533 Current Releases: • 2006 Firehouse Red • 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon • 2006 Cabernet Franc • 2006 Sangiovese • 2005 Sagemoor www.tamarackcellars.com Vineyard Reserve

Vineyard Ln & Mill Creek Rd, Walla Walla Open Saturdays Other times by appt. Call 509-525-4724 See our map: www.wallawallavintners.com

New Releases: '06 Pepper Bridge Malbec ‘06 Morrison Lane Syrah Available at Winery

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WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES

Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by the magazine’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “double blind,” meaning the tasting panelists know neither the producer nor the variety. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a U-Line Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The Wine Press Northwest tasting panel includes Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Bob Woehler, the magazine’s tasting editor and a longtime Northwest wine writer and professional judge; Jessica Munnell, a winemaker formerly at Chateau Ste. Michelle; Vanessa Bailey, a soil microbiologist at Pacific Northwest National Laboratory in Richland, Wash.; Eric Degerman, the magazine’s managing editor; and Andy Perdue, the magazine’s editor-in-chief. Hank Sauer and Paul Sinclair conduct the evaluations and ensure their integrity. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated. Note: Tasting panelist Coke Roth’s son, Frank, is the winemaker at Tagaris Winery in Richland, Wash. When a Tagaris wine is reviewed, Roth’s vote is excluded after the tally is taken and the wine is revealed.

Cabernet Sauvignon Amavi Cellars 2005 Caberent Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 4,910 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Excellent. Winemaker Jean-François Pellet pulls

double duty between this Walla Walla producer and the company’s flagship winery, Pepper Bridge. This Cab includes Merlot (14%), Syrah (9%) and Malbec (1%). It opens with aromas of pie cherries, tobacco leaf, cinnamon bark and leather, followed by big flavors of sweet plums and black raspberries. The tannins have plenty of grip, and there’s loads of acidity backing up all the fruit.

Cave B Estate Winery 2004 Cave B Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 480 cases, 14% alc., $28

Outstanding! Winemaker Freddy Arredondo is at

the helm of this winery near the Gorge Amphitheater in George, Wash. This superb wine opens with aromas of black fruit, minerally earth and hints of coffee and oak, followed by rich flavors of juicy plums, blackberries and cherries. This is a lush wine with plenty of weight in the mouth, yet it’s perfectly balanced with moderate tannins and ample acidity.

Columbia Crest 2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 6,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $27

Excellent. The grapes for this richly structured Cab came primarily from the Wahluke Slope, Cold Creek and the estate Horse Heaven Vineyard. It opens with alluring aromas of cloves, black olives and black currants, followed by elegant flavors of huckleberries and blackberries. The fruit-to-tannin ratio is balanced, and this should age gracefully for a decade or more.

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2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 462 cases, 14.3% alc., $32

Wine evaluation methods

Reds

Fort Walla Walla Cellars

Eaton Hill Winery

Outstanding! This downtown Walla Walla winery honors the memory of Fort Walla Walla with its name. The fort was established in 1818 at the mouth of the Walla Walla River by the Hudson’s Bay Co. and is thought to be the site of some of Washington’s earliest vineyards. This wine is a marvelous tribute, as it offers intriguing aromas of black currants, fresh-brewed espresso and sweet spices. On the palate are luscious flavors of black fruit, vanilla and a whisper of dark chocolate. It’s a beautifully balanced wine that will reward further patience in the cellar.

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope, 230 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Recommended. This is the second release from a

new winery on Washington’s Wahluke Slope, near the town of Mattawa. The winery gets its name from an ancient petrified forest found nearby in the 1950s, which included the rare ginkgo tree. The winery has since planted ginkgos around its property. This wine opens with intriguing aromas of nutmeg, blueberries and cedar, followed by ripe flavors of plums and pomegranates. Assertive tannins give this plenty of structure.

2004 Konnowac Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley, 117 cases, 14.5% alc., $32

Goose Ridge Estate Winery

Excellent. Hidden near the Yakima Valley town of

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Granger is this longtime and often-overlooked producer. Yet the Stear family is crafting some remarkable wines. This Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in oak for 29 months. It opens with intriguing aromas of sweet spices, black currants, chocolate syrup and coffee, followed by fruit-driven flavors of blackberries and raspberries. Spices and sweet herbs provide complexity.

Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 14.5% alc., $30

Fidelitas Wines 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Excellent. This vineyard across the interstate from Red Mountain already is one of the largest in the state. Now the winery is expanding to be able to produce greater amounts of wine, primarily under its Stone Cap label. This classy Cab has a bit of Malbec (9%), a favorite variety for winemaker Charlie Hoppes. There’s a lot to like here, as it opens with aromas of blackberries, cherries and sweet oak, followed by flavors of dark berries, bittersweet chocolate and oak.

Columbia Valley, 804 cases, 14.7% alc., $30

Excellent. Increasingly, owner/winemaker Charlie

Jones of Washington

Hoppes is honing his focus toward Bordeaux varieties, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine includes a bit of Merlot and Petit Verdot. The grapes came from five vineyards, with the majority from Conner Lee, Champoux’s Lady Hawk and Stillwater Creek. It opens with aromas of minerals, black licorice, black cherries and green peppers, followed by flavors of black cherries and leather. A few years in the cellar should coax a lot more from this wine.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Fidelitas Wines

Mercer Estates

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Walla Walla Valley, 581 cases, 14.8% alc., $40

Horse Heaven Hills, 585 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Recommended. Between his years at Ste.

Excellent. Mercer Estates might be the new win-

Michelle and Three Rivers, winemaker Charlie Hoppes got to know the vineyards of Washington. This release offers aromas of higher-toned fruit such as cherries and cranberries, as well as hints of vanilla and coffee. On the palate, the flavors are loaded with brambleberries and boysenberries. Subtle tannins provide all the necessary structure for a rich, smooth wine that has yet to reveal its full potential.

ery on the block, but it has a lot of history behind it. Consider this: Bud Mercer was behind what now is Champoux Vineyards; Mike Hogue once owned Hogue Cellars; and David Forsyth was Hogue’s longtime winemaker. This is the winery’s first release of Cabernet, and it’s a dandy. It opens with aromas of black cherries, cranberries, cola and a hint of bell pepper, followed by flavors of high-toned cherries and raspberries.

Wahluke Slope, 1,830 cases, 14.6% alc., $18

Recommended. Jack Jones began planting grapes

in 1997. Jones and his son Greg launched the winery a few years later. This Cab from estate grapes on the Wahluke Slope offers aromas of blackberries, mint, vanilla and oak, followed by smooth, delicious flavors of dried cherries, boysenberries and dark chocolate. Sturdy tannins provide ample structure and a solid finish.

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recent releases Milbrandt Vineyards 2005 Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 1,000 cases, 14.9% alc., $25

Excellent. The Milbrandt brothers began planting

wine grapes in 1997 and quickly became among the most respected growers on the Wahluke Slope. This Cabernet Sauvignon from their first vintage includes a bit of Petit Verdot (5%). It opens with aromas of pomegranates, cranberries and cedar, followed by big, juicy flavors of black cherries, raspberries and chocolate. Fairly assertive tannins provide plenty of structure for aging or pairing with a hearty meal.

Saviah Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley, 304 cases, 13.9%, $28

Recommended. Owner/winemaker Richard Funk

has been one of the many shining stars coming out of the Walla Walla Valley in recent years. Funk has been especially consistent in the quality of his wines. This Cab contains juice from three top vineyards: Pepper Bridge, Seven Hills and McClellan. It opens with aromas of black cherries, black currants, roasted coffee and crushed leaf, followed by austere flavors of blackberries and black currants.

Silver Lake Winery 2003 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 228 cases, 13.2% alc., $30

Recommended. This older release from a cus-

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

WINE REVIEWS

Pinot Noir

tomer-owned Woodinville, Wash., winery saw 30 months in new and 1-year-old barrels. It shows off aromas of black cherries, toffee and mint, followed by robust flavors of Bing cherries and a latté with a dash of caramel.

Apolloni Vineyards

Thurston Wolfe

Recommended. Owners Alfredo and Laurine

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Apolloni make their home amid their 40 acres of vines in the northern Willamette Valley town of Forest Grove, Ore. This wine, from estate grapes, exudes youthfulness with its aromas of red currants, President plums, cherries and vanilla, followed by flavors of purple plums and pie cherries. Bright acidity boosts the ample fruit flavors, leading to a moderate finish.

Washington, 495 cases, 15% alc., $25

Outstanding! Longtime Washington winemaker Wade Wolfe loves grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills, which loom above his Prosser, Wash., winery. Aging in a combination of French, Hungarian and American oak for 22 months added depth and complexity to this wine. It opens with aromas of deep cherries, dusty earth and fresh-brewed espresso, followed by round, juicy flavors of black currants and ripe plums. The velvety tannins provide subtle structure to a wine that is ready to drink anytime in the next five years.

TimberRock Winery 2005 Phinny Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 195 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Recommended. Owner/winemaker Kevin Rogers

set up this winery in Idaho but gets his grapes from Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills. This Cab reveals aromas of peppercorns, cedar, cherries and an alluring hint of aged balsamic. On the palate, it offers bright flavors of cherries, blueberries and vanilla.

2006 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 1,035 cases, 13.6% alc., $29

Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2006 Estate Pinot Noir Puget Sound, 127 cases, 13.5% alc., $36

Recommended. Tobias Wolff is the greatest claim

to fame for the tiny Skagit Valley town of Concrete, Wash. The folks at Challenger Ridge hope to surpass the author’s notoriety with their Pinot Noirs. This racy red opens with aromas of raspberries, cherries and other high-toned red fruit, followed by flavors of Chelan cherries and cranberries. Pair this with a pasta dish such as spaghetti and meatballs.

Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Puget Sound, 227 cases, 13% alc., $23

Excellent. Winemaker Randy Bonaventura, for-

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Abacela Vineyards & Winery NV Vintner’s Blend No. 8 Southern Oregon, 1,760 cases, 13.4% alc., $15

Excellent. This wine might just be the ultimate blend, combining no fewer than a dozen different grape varieties from five vineyards. The dominant grapes are Tempranillo (24%) and Cabernet Franc (18%) and include such grapes as Nebbiolo, Graciano and Petit Verdot. It offers aromas of violets, dried strawberries and rhubarb, followed by flavors of ripe strawberries, raspberries and black cherries.

Camas Prairie Winery 2006 Champoux Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 220 cases, 15.1% alc., $15

Recommended. Stu Scott continues to produce wines of incredible quality and value from one of Washington’s top vineyards. Scott has a

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • FA L L 2 0 0 8

longtime relationship with Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills and crafts a wine that is often three times less expensive than other Cabs using the same grapes. This offers aromas of huckleberries, pencil shavings, baker’s chocolate and vanilla, followed by smooth flavors of ripe plums and blackberries.

Camas Prairie Winery 2006 Champoux Vineyards Lemberger Washington, 220 cases, 14.1% alc., $14

Excellent. Lemberger, an Austrian grape that is

grown sporadically in Washington, is rare enough. To have a vineyard-designated version is remarkable. This is produced by a Moscow, Idaho, winery using Washington grapes. It shows off youthful exuberance with nouveau-like qualities of raspberries and red cherries. On the palate, it’s a mouthful of

bright red cherries backed with ample acidity and underlying sweet herbs.

Columbia Crest 2005 H3 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 9,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $15

Excellent. When the Horse Heaven Hills AVA was approved in 2005, the Northwest’s largest winery suddenly was in a new appellation. Though the vast majority of Columbia Crest’s grapes come from the broader Columbia Valley AVA, winemaker Ray Einberger wanted to highlight the new appellation. Thus, H3 (for Horse Heaven Hills) was born. It’s a delicious and affordable wine with aromas of dusty cherries, cedar, raspberries and a hint of soy sauce. On the palate, this is a straightforward wine with flavors of black cherries and dark chocolate sauce and a rich mouth feel.

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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.

Columbia Crest Columbia Valley, 9,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $15

black cherries and blackberries. Supple tannins provide little more than background music for a wine that shouldn’t be this good at this price.

Outstanding! The first release of this new label

Eaton Hill Winery

2005 H3 Merlot

for Columbia Crest is a fine start indeed, and this is a great way to celebrate this Paterson, Wash., winery’s 25th anniversary. Winemaker Ray Einberger and crew have crafted a wine that is mostly Merlot (82%), along with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon (13%) and Cabernet Franc. It opens with aromas of black cherries, black olives, cloves, cinnamon and a subtle hint of oak. It’s sweet and juicy on the palate with tons of cherries and underlying chocolate.

Columbia Crest 2005 Grand Estates Merlot Columbia Valley, 295,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $11

Outstanding! We continue to stand in awe of Ray Einberger, whose team is able to make such vast quantities of wines that are so delicious. This may well be the largest production of Merlot in North America. It opens with aromas of black tea, red bell peppers, oregano and cherry tomatoes. On the palate, it’s a juicy and yummy wine with flavors of cherries and mountain berry cobbler. It provides crowdpleasing moves and is meant to drink young.

Columbia Crest 2005 Two Vines Merlot-Cab Columbia Valley, 115,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Excellent. This popular and inexpensive blend

also includes a bit of Cabernet Franc. It opens with aromas of blackberries, black olives, fresh earth and a delicate note of strawberries. On the flavors, it’s loaded with fruit, including black cherries and cranberries. Lush, approachable tannins don’t get in the way of all the fruit.

Columbia Crest 2005 Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red Wine Washington, 50,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Outstanding! Vineyard 10 is a new bottling for

Columbia Crest and refers to a block of vines near the winery in Paterson, Wash., that are among the oldest on the estate. Thus, this could well be the least-expensive vineyard-designated wine in the Pacific Northwest. It’s a blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that reveals complex aromas of marionberries, blueberries, black licorice and black pepper, followed by velvety flavors of merly of Mount Baker Vineyards, moved to this young producer in 2006. This Pinot Noir opens with aromas of raspberries, black currants, cedar and even blood oranges, followed by elegant flavors of cranberries, raspberries and red plums.

David Hill Vineyards & Winery

2006 Eaton Hill Vineyards Gamay Noir Yakima Valley, 54 cases, 135% alc., $14

Excellent. Gamay is best known in the French

regions of Beaujolais and the Loire Valley. Very little is planted in the Northwest, yet this wine might make the argument for more. It’s a delicious and straightforward red with aromas of plums, blackberries and strawberries and flavors of plums and blackberries. A hint of chocolate provides depth. It’s not a wine you need to sit around and contemplate adjectives over — just enjoy it with lasagna.

Miceli Vineyard and Winery 2005 Merlot Snake River Valley, 85 cases, 13.9% alc., $12

Excellent. A young man named Francesco Miceli

adorns the label for this Idaho winery. Francesco was the grandfather of winery owner Jim Mitchell, and he emigrated to the United States from his native Sicily a century ago, then made wine for himself in Pennsylvania for decades. Jim caught the winemaking bug two decades ago and now is realizing his dream in the emerging Snake River Valley. This opens with aromas of black olives, brown sugar and Dr Pepper, followed by juicy flavors of cherries, cocoa powder and sweet spices.

Milbrandt Vineyards 2005 Traditions Merlot Washington, 3,400 cases, 14.8% alc., $15

Outstanding! Longtime Washington winemaker Gordy Hill made his mark at Northstar Winery, whose primary focus was Merlot. Thus, it’s no surprise his first Merlot for Milbrandt is so delicious. That it’s such a bargain is a bonus. The blend includes Cabernet Sauvignon (12%) and Barbera (4%). It opens with aromas of toffee, cola, ripe plums and dusty cherries, followed by hedonistic flavors of dark, juicy berries. Smooth tannins allow the fruit to shine through the lengthy finish.

Sawtooth Winery 2005 Skyline Red Wine Idaho, 5,000 cases, 14.5% alc., $10

Excellent. Brad Pintler runs Idaho’s second-

largest winery and also oversees the state’s north to this longtime Forest Grove, Ore., winery. Using estate grapes, he has crafted a Pinot Noir with classic aromas of spicy cherries and moist earth and approachable flavors of black cherries and raspberries. Modest tannins back up the ample fruit. Pair this with sirloin or salmon.

2006 Barrel Select Pinot Noir

Ginkgo Forest Winery

Willamette Valley, 625 cases, 13.7% alc., $28

2006 Pinot Noir

Recommended. After several years working in

Wahluke Slope, 30 cases, 14.3% alc., $18

Yamhill County, winemaker Jason Bull migrated

Recommended. The Wahluke Slope vies with Red

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

largest vineyard, Skyline. This blend includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Primitivo. It opens with aromas of black raspberries, plums and even a hint of rye toast. On the palate are flavors of black cherries, black olives, blackberries and chocolate. Mild tannins give way to a fruit-filled experience.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2005 Merlot Columbia Valley, 10,000 cases, 13.7% alc., $10

Excellent. Longtime Snoqualmie winemaker Joy Andersen produces one of Washington’s finest and most-affordable Merlots year in and year out. This wine includes 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged 11 months in French and American oak. It opens with aromas of huckleberries, Rainier cherries and strawberries, followed by luscious flavors of cherries, blueberries and vanilla. Bright acidity and smooth tannins provide food-friendliness. Age this on the way home from the store, then open it with pizza, burgers or lamb chops.

Snoqualmie Vineyards 2006 Whistlestop Red Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10

Excellent. If you spend much time in

Washington’s Columbia Valley, you’ll soon notice the freight trains traveling through. That’s what this Bordeaux-style blend commemorates. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) and Merlot that is as delicious as it is affordable. It opens with aromas of red currants, black cherries and toasty oak, followed by flavors of dried and ripe cherries and black currants. Enjoy this with barbecued chicken or a tomato-based pasta dish.

Waterbrook Winery 2006 Melange Columbia Valley, 16,522 cases, 13.8% alc., $15

Outstanding! This red blend has to be one of the happiest accidents ever to occur. Years ago, it was meant to be a simple blend that combined all the wine that didn’t fit into the other bottlings. Turned out the resulting wine was amazing — and inexpensive. This has not changed through the years. This vintage’s blend is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Cab Franc and Syrah. On the aromas, it shows off black currants, plums and hints of citrus and green peppercorns. The lush flavors of plums, black raspberries and sweet herbs are rounded nicely with modest tannins and ample acidity.

Mountain as the two warmest grape-growing regions in Washington, so one would never expect Pinot Noir to be grown here. Yet near the town of Desert Aire are some 8-year-old vines of clone 777. This wine reveals aromas of black pepper, cherries and light oak, followed by smooth flavors of cranberries, raspberries and cherries, all backed with zippy acidity and moderate tannins. This is not your typical Pinot Noir. It would pair well with grilled meats or a hearty stew. FA L L 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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La Frenz Winery 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir Okanagan Valley, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $32 CDN

aromas of molasses, cloves, black cherries and leather, followed by flavors of pomegranates, cloves and black cherries.

notes before giving way to flavors of plums, white pepper and chocolate-covered cherries. Modest tannins and ample acidity provide all the backbone necessary.

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Jeff Martin made his mark in his native Australia before emigrating to western Canada, first as winemaker at Quails’ Gate in Kelowna and now at his own winery on the Naramata Bench. His wines are consistently great and highly sought after. This Pinot Noir is certain to be a classic, thanks to aromas of ripe plums, raspberries, light earth and cedar, followed by richly structured flavors of black cherries, plum jam and raspberries. Moderate tannins and spot-on acidity provide perfect structure to a wine with so many delicious flavors. Pair this with roasted duck drizzled with a Syrah reduction sauce.

Montinore Estate

Lenné

Montinore Estate

2006 Pinot Noir

2006 Graham’s Block No. 7 Pinot Noir

Willamette Valley, 2,025 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Yamhill-Carlton District, 230 cases, 14.6% alc., $45

Willamette Valley, 259 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Recommended. Steve Lutz and Scott Huffman

Excellent. This 25-year-old block in Montinore’s

launched this small winery after departing Anne Amie. They planted their 21-acre vineyard near the town of Yamhill, Ore., and released their first wines from the 2004 vintage. This reveals

220-acre estate winery produces some of this Forest Grove, Ore., winery’s finest grapes annually. This release shows off aromas of strawberries, forest floor and intriguing bacon

Outstanding! This is a blend of grapes from the Parson’s Ridge and Graham’s Block 7 vineyards. It’s a beautiful wine that blossoms with a bit of time in the glass. It opens with aromas of cinnamon, cherries and light oak, followed by smooth, clean flavors of plums and Bing cher-

2006 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

Montinore Estate

Willamette Valley, 13.8% alc., $19

2006 Parson’s Ridge Pinot Noir

Excellent. Launched in 1982, this winery near

Willamette Valley, 269 cases, 14.2% alc., $35

Forest Grove., Ore., has long been a favorite stop for wine tourists. In the most recent decade, the wines have been consistently superb. This delicious and affordable Pinot Noir from estate grapes opens with aromas of cinnamon, cedar, cherries and vanilla, followed by bright, complex flavors of cherries and raspberries. Silky tannins provide a luxurious mouth feel through the moderate finish.

Outstanding! A favorite block of Pinot Noir grapes, Parson’s Ridge features 25-year-old, own-rooted vines. This was aged 10 months in French and Hungarian oak. It opens with aromas of strawberries and ripe cherries, followed by right-on flavors of Bing cherries, cinnamon and red plums. It’s beautifully balanced on the palate with velvety tannins.

Montinore Estate 2006 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir

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tage, shows off aromas of cloves, dried strawberries and cherries, followed by plush flavors of red currants, cranberries and cherries.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

2006 Pinot Noir

Torii Mor

Recommended. Rising up a slope from the

Okanagan Valley, 175 cases, 13.5% alc., $23

2006 Olson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir

Excellent. In 1996, Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie purchased this property overlooking Skaha Lake near Penticton, B.C., and began planting grapes. Their resulting wines are highly sought after. This Pinot Noir reveals complex aromas of cherries, rhubarb and Candela leaf cigars, followed by flavors of high-toned red fruits such as Rainier cherries and rhubarb. Modest tannins back up all the fruit.

Dundee Hills, 274 cases, 14.25% alc., $65

Excellent. The estate vineyard for Torii Mor was planted in the early ’70s and has been owned by the Olson family since the mid-’80s. This vineyard-designated Pinot Noir shows off aromas of dried strawberries, leather and portabella mushrooms, followed by hedonistic flavors of juicy cherries and raspberries. A near-absence of tannins gives this wine youthful approachability.

Rusty Grape Vineyard

Willamette Valley Vineyards

2005 Pinot Noir

2006 Pinot Noir

Washington, 228 case, 13.0% alc., $22

Willamette Valley, 25,127 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Recommended. For decades, an often-overlooked

Excellent. The warm 2006 vintage — which some

grape-growing area of Washington has been the region around the city of Vancouver. It’s just north of the Willamette Valley and offers a very similar climate. This small operation near the town of Battle Ground is on five acres. This estate wine features aromas of cloves, cherries, green tea and cinnamon, followed by flavors of strawberry pie, as well as black cherries.

Oregon winemakers described as “Californialike” meant an early harvest. In the case of this large lot Pinot Noir, harvest began in late September, some two weeks early. Winemaker Forrest Klafke then crafted a wine with aromas of violets, raspberries and sweet herbs, followed by smooth flavors of bright cherries and red plums. Pair with lamb or lean cuts of beef.

ries. Silky tannins and bright acidity offer structure through the lengthy finish.

Pentâge Winery

Merlot

Shadow Mountain Vineyard 2006 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 504 cases, 13.2% alc., $20

Airfield Estates

Excellent. This 25-acre vineyard north of Eugene,

2006 Merlot

Ore., was planted in 1998 to Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Riesling. This opens with intriguing aromas of white strawberries, leather and a hint of tobacco leaf, followed by flavors of dried strawberries, black cherries and leather. The tannins start out somewhat assertive then mellow on the lingering finish.

Yakima Valley, 320 cases, 14.4% alc., $22

Torii Mor 2006 Deux Verres Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 981 cases, 14.35% alc., $45

Excellent. Burgundian-born winemaker Jacques

Tardy honed his skills at Montinore Estates in Forest Grove, Ore., before moving to this highend producer in the Dundee Hills. This Pinot Noir opens with inviting aromas of raspberries, black cherries, cloves and oak, followed by ripe flavors of red fruit, including plums and cherries. Silky tannins and moderate acidity balance the fruit in this complex and well-made wine.

Torii Mor 2006 Dundee Hills Select Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 409 cases, 14.33% alc., $52

Recommended. Using grapes from three vine-

yards, winemaker Jacques Tardy crafted a wine that was aged 13 months in French oak. It opens with aromas of pie cherries, cinnamon and leather, followed by flavors of black cherries and cloves. Modest tannins and bright acidity back up the classic fruit flavors.

Torii Mor 2006 La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 291 cases, 14.23% alc., $60

Excellent. This vineyard near the town of

Lafayette, Ore., was planted between 1999 and 2001 by owners Dee and George Hillberry. The resulting wine from a warmer-than-usual vinW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Outstanding! The Miller family began planting grapes in the shadow of Rattlesnake Mountain in the late ’60s. Now, the family is in the winery business in a big way with the opening last year of its striking tasting room in Prosser, Wash. Winemaker Marcus Miller has crafted his finest wine to date with this Merlot, which provides aromas of ripe black cherries, sweet herbs and milk chocolate. On the palate are flavors of rich, ripe berries and black cherries. The tannins are ample yet seamless. Pair with tomato-based pasta dishes or a New York steak.

Barnard Griffin 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley, 6,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $17

Outstanding! Rob Griffin has been walking vineyards and making wine in Washington for more than three decades. Experience like that pays off in every bottle of Barnard Griffin. This wine is part of the popular “Tulip” label series and opens with aromas of boysenberries, espresso and pine needles. On the palate, it’s a big, juicy red with black cherries, plums and black raspberries. Moderate tannins and ample acidity allow the fruit to shine. This is built to drink soon — and with grilled meats.

Cave B Estate Winery 2004 Cave B Vineyards Merlot Columbia Valley, 485 cases, 14% alc., $22

Recommended. This blend of Merlot (75%) and

Cabernet Sauvignon was aged 22 months in mostly American oak. It shows quite a bit of complexity, thanks to aromas of baker’s chocolate, black pepper, black raspberries and a sweet herbal note. On the palate, it’s a boldly structured wine with hefty dark fruit and a big mouth feel.

2005 Canoe Ridge Estate Merlot Horse Heaven Hills, 12,000 cases, 14.3% alc., $22

Columbia River, Canoe Ridge is one of Ste. Michelle’s prized estate vineyards and also is home to its red winemaking facility. This Merlot offers aromas of black olives, French oak spices and cherries, followed by flavors of thyme, rosemary and black cherries. It’s nicely balanced and should pair well with lamb or beef.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Cold Creek Vineyard Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.3% alc., $26

Outstanding! Thirty-year-old vines at this estate vineyard north of the Yakima Valley make Cold Creek one of winemaker Bob Bertheau’s favorite locations. This wine includes 6% Cabernet Sauvignon from Cold Creek for structure and flavor. It opens with aroma of black cherries, black pepper and crushed walnuts, followed by lively flavors of black olives, boysenberries and raspberry jam. Moderate tannins are tempered by the jammy fruit.

Church & State Wines 2006 Coyote Bowl Vineyard Merlot Okanagan Valley, 286 cases, 14.8% alc., $35 CDN

Recommended. Napa Valley winemaker Bill Dyer

got his first taste of British Columbia winemaking when he consulted for Burrowing Owl. Now, he’s involved with this operation north of Victoria. This Merlot already won gold medals at three competitions. It opens with spicy aromas of black raspberries, Bing cherries and coffee, followed by flavors of ripe plums, black olives, sweet herbs and moist, minerally earth.

Columbia Crest 2004 Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $22

Outstanding! Just as with its Cabernet sibling, this

reserve-level Merlot used grapes from top vineyards in the Wahluke Slope, Cold Creek and estate Horse Heaven Hills. A bit of Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) was blended in for complexity and structure by winemaker Ray Einberger and Co. The result is a wine with aromas of black currants, blackberries and chocolate and elegant, endearing flavors of plums and jammy black cherries. Hints of espresso give way to round, sweet tannins that back up a whole lot of fruit.

Fidelitas Wines 2005 Merlot Red Mountain, 136 cases, 14.4% alc., $45

Excellent. This is a new release for winemaker

Charlie Hoppes, who has relocated his winery to a five-acre property on venerable Red Mountain in the warm eastern Yakima Valley. The grapes come from Red Mountain Vineyard, which is very nearly directly across the street from Fidelitas’ new tasting room on Sunset Road. This shows off aromas of blueberries and moist earth, followed by flavors of ripe Bing cherries and blueberries.

Fort Walla Walla Cellars 2005 Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 549 cases, 13.9% alc., $30

Recommended. Longtime Walla Walla home wineFA L L 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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makers Jim Moyer and Cliff Kontos launched Fort Walla Walla Cellars in 1998. Using grapes from St. Clare and Pepper Bridge vineyards in the Walla Walla Valley, they have crafted a Merlot that shows off aromas of black cherries, espresso and sweet oak, followed by flavors of black cherries and ripe plums.

Glen Fiona 2004 Merlot Columbia Valley, 345 cases, 13.7% alc., $30

Recommended. This luscious Merlot takes advan-

tage of fruit from the Rattlesnake Hills in the northern Yakima Valley and includes small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. It opens with aromas of just-out-of-the-oven brownies, as well as a hint of fennel and purple plums. On the palate are flavors of blackberries and huckleberry jam.

Jacksonville Vineyards 2005 Reserve Merlot Applegate Valley, 150 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Recommended. This Merlot is from estate grapes

and shows off aromas of dusty cherries, dark chocolate, cloves and black pepper. On the palate, it reveals flavors of pipe tobacco and ripe cherries dusted with cocoa powder. Mild tannins give this youthful approachability.

Jones of Washington 2005 Merlot Wahluke Slope, 412 cases, 15% alc., $24

Excellent. Using grapes from their estate vine-

yard on Washington’s warm Wahluke Slope, the father-son team of Jack and Greg Jones have crafted a delicious Merlot with aromas of black olives and sweet cherry jam. On the palate are juicy flavors of raspberries and elegant cherries. Supple tannins provide gentle structure.

Mercer Estates 2005 Merlot Horse Heaven Hills, 757 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Excellent. David Forsyth spent 23 years making

wine for Hogue Cellars before following his former boss Mike Hogue to this new operation. Forsyth is well versed in Washington’s flagship variety, and it shows. This opens with complex aromas of violets, plums, cedar and cocoa powder, followed by zesty flavors of pie cherries, red currants and raspberries.

legend. Ogopogo, a Loch Ness-type creature, is said to rule the depths of this deep-water lake. This would seem to be the inspiration behind the name of this boutique producer on the Naramata Bench. This Merlot opens with aromas of Rainier cherries, vanilla and milk chocolate, followed by dark, brooding flavors of plums and dark berries. Sturdy tannins and moderate acidity provide food-friendly balance. We’d suggest a marbled steak topped with mushrooms.

Southern Oregon, 351 cases, 14.3% alc., $30

2005 Qwam Qwmt Merlot Okanagan Valley, 978 cases, 14.6% alc., $25 CDN

Excellent. Randy Picton oversees winemaking for

this tribal-owned winery just over the border in Osoyoos, B.C. This wine opens with aromas of sweet spices, green peppercorns, cloves and Rainier cherries, then gives way to flavors of black cherries and chocolaty tannins. The fruit is slightly lean on the entry, then broadens through the midpalate and finish without losing its brightness.

Columbia Valley, 2,979 cases, 14.1% alc., $22

Excellent. With a quarter-century of Washington

winemaking under his belt, Mike Januik enjoys a broad view of the Columbia Valley and what it can offer. This wine includes a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) and Petit Verdot (2%) to provide greater complexity and balance. It opens with aromas of huckleberries, cola and coffee, followed by flavors of ripe cherries, blueberries and chocolate.

Pedestal

Arcane Cellars Recommended. Rob Wallace, a former

Sacramento, Calif., farmer, relocated to Southern Oregon to plant wine grapes. In the process, he and his Del Rio Vineyard helped focus Oregon’s attention on the potential of Rogue Valley grapes. Arcane Cellars in Salem has crafted a tasty wine that opens with aromas of plums and moist earth, followed by flavors of black cherries, leather and cola.

Barnard Griffin 2006 Syrah

2005 Merlot

Columbia Valley, 4,500 cases, 14.4% alc., $17

Columbia Valley, 1,512 cases, 14.7% alc., $55

Excellent. Along the Columbia River near the town of Desert Aire, Wash., winemaker Rob Griffin acquires Syrah grapes from a vineyard he describes as “the Côte-Rôtie of Washington.” That’s where 89% of the grapes for this luscious wine came from. It opens with aromas of blueberries, cola and espresso, followed by rich, ripe flavors of blackberry jam and dark chocolate.

Excellent. Perhaps the world’s most famous wine-

maker is Michel Rolland, Right Bank-based winemaking consultant who helps more than 100 clients across a dozen countries around the globe. His involvement in the Long Shadows operation in Walla Walla is his entry into the Washington wine industry. This wine is primarily Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This opens with enticing aromas of pomegranates, cedar and leather, followed by juicy flavors of black cherries and dark chocolate.

Waterbrook Winery Columbia Valley, 3,053 cases, 13.7% alc., $22

Outstanding! Waterbrook, one of the original wineries in the Walla Walla Valley, now is owned by Precept Brands in Seattle. This beautiful Merlot uses grapes from no fewer than four appellations within the Columbia Valley. This opens with aromas of sweet spices, cherry cola, plums and pipe tobacco, followed by flavors of plums, black cherries and Flathead Lake black raspberries. A lush midpalate is backed by supple tannins and bright acidity.

Syrah

Monster Vineyards

Abacela Vineyards & Winery

2006 Merlot

2004 Umpqua Cuvée Syrah

Okanagan Valley, 473 cases, 13.7% alc., $20 CDN

Umpqua Valley, 902 cases, 14.1% alc., $19

Excellent. Okanagan Lake in the Interior of

Recommended. This is about as mainstream as

British Columbia has its very own sea monster

Abacela gets with wine grapes, as this

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yard sources as its Umpqua Cuvée Syrah (Fault Line in the Umpqua and Steelhead Run in the Applegate), this reserve-style Syrah reveals gorgeous aromas of raspberries, strawberries and green peppercorns. On the palate are flavors of fresh wild strawberries, black raspberries and Australian black licorice. Chocolaty tannins lead to a smooth, supple finish.

Rogue Valley, 75 cases, 13.7% alc., $29

2005 Merlot

2005 Legacy Merlot

Recommended. Using grapes from the same vine-

2006 Del Rio Vineyard Syrah

Novelty Hill

Milbrandt Vineyards Excellent. The Milbrandts have to be happy with this wine’s performance so far, as it won double gold and best Merlot at the prestigious San Francisco International Wine Competition this summer. This wine includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. It opens with aromas of leather, black currants, ripe plums and smoky bacon, followed by rich flavors of cherries and red plums. Beautiful acidity and a near-absence of tannins provides youthful approachability.

Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2004 Syrah

Nk’Mip Cellars

2005 Reserve Merlot

Washington, 1,000 cases, 15% alc., $25

Roseburg, Ore., winery typically works with much more exotic varieties. This particular blend uses grapes from the estate Fault Line Vineyards in the Umpqua Valley as well as Steelhead Run Vineyard in the Applegate Valley. It opens with aromas of blackberries, coffee and cherry liqueur, followed by flavors of candied cherries and blackberries.

Basalt Cellars 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 280 cases, 15.6% alc., $24

Recommended. Basalt Cellars is in Clarkston,

Wash., the far eastern edge of the Columbia Valley. Using grapes from Willard (Yakima Valley) and Seven Hills (Walla Walla Valley) vineyards, this young producer has crafted a wine that provides aromas of cloves, cedar and gorgeous berries, followed by flavors of sweet cherries and sweet herbs.

Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars 2006 Syrah Yakima Valley, 195 cases, 13.9% alc., $18

Excellent. This young producer in the Skagit

County town of Concrete, Wash., hired winemaker Randy Bonaventura beginning with the 2006 vintage. This Syrah uses grapes from the Yakima Valley and shows qualities typical of that Eastern Washington locale, including smoky, spicy bacon notes reminiscent to CôteRôtie. It also offers aromas of leather, plums and black currants, followed by flavors of plums and dark cherries. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Limited Release Syrah Wahluke Slope, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Outstanding! You would be hard pressed to find this wine on any store shelf, as it is a small-lot production that was released primarily to Ste. Michelle’s wine club members. It’s a stunning wine with aromas of plums, cherries, shaved chocolate and mushrooms, followed by flavors of ripe plums, rich blackberries and spicy Mexican chocolate. It’s beautifully balanced with moderate tannins, leading us to pair it with stuffed flank steak.

Columbia Crest 2005 Reserve Syrah

boysenberries, plums and sweet oak, followed by explosive flavors of loganberries, black cherries and even maple syrup. This juicy wine should be in its prime for the next three years.

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate 2005 Sunrock Vineyard Shiraz Okanagan Valley, 500 cases, 14.1% alc., $35 CDN

Excellent. Brook Blair has taken over as wine-

maker of one of British Columbia’s finest producers. This vineyard near the border town of Osoyoos is producing some of J-T’s finest grapes. This Syrah opens with aromas of plums, chocolate and oak, followed by bold flavors of blackberries, plums and black olives.

Horse Heaven Hills, 4,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $20

Jacksonville Vineyards

Recommended. For a reserve-level wine, this is a

2006 Syrah

nicely priced offering from the Northwest’s largest producer. Winemaker Ray Einberger blended in Grenache (9%) and Viognier (2%) for complexity. It opens with aromas of black walnuts, pie cherries and cola, followed by juicy flavors of cherries and bittersweet chocolate.

Cougar Crest Winery 2004 Syrah

Milbrandt Vineyards 2005 Legacy Syrah Washington, 1,200 cases, 14.6% alc., $25

Excellent. Using Syrah from estate vineyards

Clifton, Sundance and Pheasant and a bit of Mourvedre (3.6%) from Northridge (all on the Wahluke Slope), winemaker Gordy Hill has crafted a tasty wine from an area some consider the finest Syrah region in the state. This

Recommended. Owners/winemakers Dave and

Pamela Palmer made just a tiny amount of this Syrah from their estate vineyard in Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley. It opens with aromas of plums, cherry cola and toasted pumpernickle bread, followed by dense flavors of plums, black currants and a hint of tomato paste.

Jones of Washington

Excellent. The 2004 winter was especially tough

2005 Syrah

on the Walla Walla Valley, where severe winter weather caused widespread loss of fruit. Wineries like Cougar Crest who relied primarily on Walla Walla Valley grapes had to find sources elsewhere. This release by Cougar Crest reveals aromas of boysenberries, green peppercorns and black olives, followed by flavors of brambleberries, plum jam and milk chocolate.

Wahluke Slope, 237 cases, 14.9% alc., $28

2005 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Syrah

bodied wine with a gorgeous mouth feel backed with rich tannins and bright acidity.

Applegate Valley, 35 cases, 13.5% alc., $36

Columbia Valley, 378 cases, 14.9% alc., $32

Darby Winery

WINE REVIEWS

Outstanding! The father-son team of Jack and

Greg Jones have produced their best wine to date for this small winery near the Central Washington town of Quincy. It opens with aromas of Bing cherries, chocolate and blackberries warmed by the summer sun. On the palate are flavors of dark cherries and plums, with a certain richness and depth on the midpalate. Elegant tannins provide all the necessary structure for a wine that will pair well with duck or turkey.

Horse Heaven Hills, 215 cases, 14% alc., $30

Outstanding! This is Darby English’s first release, and it is stunning. This new Woodinville, Wash., winery used Syrah (with 5% Viognier) from highly regarded Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft a wine that is seamless from start to finish. It opens with aromas of cloves, cinnamon, plums and cedar, followed by flavors of ripe blackberries and cherries. It’s a big wine, though the tannins are plush. Pair this with duck drizzled with a Syrah reduction sauce.

Golden Mile Cellars 2006 Black Arts Syrah

Maryhill Winery 2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,333 cases, 14.5% alc., $20

Outstanding! Score another one for this large, family-owned winery in the eastern Columbia Gorge. Through its relatively brief history, Maryhill has consistently crafted some of Washington’s finest wines. This reasonably priced Syrah is another example, thanks to aromas of blackberries, slate, black licorice and coffee, followed by flavors of boysenberries, black currants and dark cherries. This is a full-

Okanagan Valley, 366 cases, 13.6% alc., $35 CDN

Recommended. This winery just over the border

near Oliver, British Columbia, has crafted a Syrah that was co-fermented with 8% Viognier in the style of the Northern Rhône Valley. It reveals aromas of espresso, red cherries and oak, followed by flavors of ripe red cherries, blackberries and French press coffee.

Horan Estates Winery 2005 CMW Syrah Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 14.9% alc., $26

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Doug McDougall dedicated this wine to his son Cory, who died in a snowmobile accident in 2003. McDougall’s Wenatchee, Wash., winery uses grapes from an estate vineyard near Royal City, and the results are seriously good. This opens with aromas of W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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opens with aromas of blueberries, blackberries, red licorice and oak tons, followed by plush flavors of dark berries and plums. A hint of minerality provides complexity in the finish.

Maryhill Winery

Pentâge Wines

Vineyards, Maryhill’s winemakers crafted a Grenache that shows off some real complexity. It opens with aromas of sandalwood, blackberries and leather, followed by flavors of raspberries, ripe cherries and minerally earth. It’s a fairly round wine that should pair with a wide number of dishes, including Beef Bourguignon.

2005 Syrah Okanagan Valley, 154 cases, 14% alc., $28 CDN

Excellent. The grapes for this succulent Syrah

come from Pentâge’s estate Vista Ridge Vineyard, a 6.5-acre block overlooking Skaha Lake near Penticton, B.C. It’s a spicy wine with aromas of black currants, cocoa powder and pencil shavings, followed by flavors of ripe plums and blackberry jam.

Columbia Valley, 392 cases, 14.6% alc., $26

Excellent. Using grapes from nearby Gunkel

Cabernet Franc Balsamroot Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc

Trio Vintners

Wahluke Slope, 140 cases, 14.1% alc., $25

2005 Syrah Columbia Valley, 186 cases, 14.6% alc., $26

Excellent. Three friends launched their winery

operation together at the Walla Walla airport. Their early releases have been remarkable. This Syrah includes a bit of Merlot and Sangiovese and is from vineyards throughout the Columbia Valley. It offers up aromas of blackberries, plums and oak, followed by flavors of ripe plums and boysenberries. The smooth tannins are the texture of a chocolate brownie.

Waterbrook Winery 2006 Reserve Syrah Columbia Valley, 1,714 cases, 13.7% alc., $22

Excellent. This superb Syrah uses grapes from

StoneTree Vineyard on Washington’s Wahluke Slope, named for the petrified trees found in the area. This is mostly Syrah with 4% Mourvedre. It opens with aromas of black cherries, pomegranates and green peppercorns, followed by incredibly rich flavors of ripe cherries, plums and chocolate. Tannins are tamed by the luxurious fruit, and the oak is thankfully underplayed.

Grenache Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2006 Garnacha Umpqua Valley, 356 cases, 14.5% alc., $24

Outstanding! Known in France as Grenache and in Spain as Garnacha, this grape was planted by owners Earl and Hilda Jones in 1995. This variety is fairly rare in the Pacific Northwest. This wine proves its potential. This opens with aromas of cherries and raspberries, followed by flavors of plums, blackberries and black cherries. This wine has loads of fruit, expertly backed with bright acidity and mild tannins.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Limited Release Grenache Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 14.5% alc., $25

Excellent. Decades ago, Ste. Michelle got into

the wine grape game using this Southern Rhône variety. Grenache has great potential in the Columbia Valley’s warm, dry climate, but it’s never quite caught on. This limited-release bottling from Washington’s flagship winery includes 7% Syrah and opens with aromas of rose petals, plums, coffee and baker’s chocolate. On the palate are flavors of dark berries, anise and dark chocolate. It’s a complex yet easy-to-drink red. Pair with a pork chop.

2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Grenache

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • FA L L 2 0 0 8

Recommended. This winery near Lake Chelan

uses grapes from the warm Wahluke Slope for this tasty Cabernet Franc. It opens with aromas of pie cherries, green peppercorns and cherry pipe tobacco, followed by flavors of strawberries, cherries and baker’s chocolate.

Icicle Ridge Winery 2006 Cabernet Franc Washington, 200 cases, 12.5% alc., $37

Recommended. Winemaker Don Wood has crafted

a delicious Cab Franc for this Peshastin, Wash., producer. It opens with aromas of red currants, fresh-roasted coffee and green peppercorns, followed by flavors of red cherries, cranberries and sweet spices. Herbal undertones offer underlying complexity.

Two Mountain Winery 2005 Reserve Cabernet Franc Yakima Valley, 178 cases, 14% alc., $30

Outstanding! The Schmidt family has been farm-

ing this land near Zillah, Wash., for nearly six decades. The current generation has planted grapes and dived head-long into the wine industry. This beautiful Cabernet Franc reveals aromas of red currants, raspberries and mint, followed by flavors of black cherries and underlying sweet herbs. Its plush entry leads to silky tannins and a gentle finish. Pair this with alderplank salmon or meat with a chutney sauce.

Malbec Napeequa Vintners 2005 Malbec Columbia Valley, 130 cases, 13.9% alc., $28

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker David Morris used

grapes from Verhey Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills to craft this superb Malbec. It was aged 18 months in French, American, Russian and Hungarian oak. It opens with aromas of red cherries, marionberries, vanilla, light oak and hints of chocolate. On the palate, it’s beautifully structured with flavors of wild strawberries, Rainier cherries and dark chocolate. A plush, velvety mouth feel gives way to a lingering finish.

Maryhill Winery 2005 Proprietor’s Reserve Malbec Columbia Valley, 299 cases, 13.6% alc., $40

Excellent. Malbec is a grape variety on the rise.

Outside of Argentina, this Bordeaux variety has rarely made headlines. Yet there seems to be a

fair bit of momentum for Washington Malbec. This version from Maryhill uses grapes from Lonesome Spring Ranch and Gunkel Vineyards. It opens with aromas of red plums, smoky oak, green peppercorns and chocolate, followed by flavors of red cherries, blackberries and chocolate tones.

Pend d’Oreille Winery 2005 Wood River Vineyard Malbec Snake River Valley, 242 cases, 13.7% alc., $28

Recommended. The high elevations and volcanic

soils of southern Idaho’s Snake River Valley are proving to be ideal for growing wine grapes. The fruit matures slowly, allowing flavors to develop without excess sugar. This winery in Sandpoint, Idaho, has crafted a wine with aromas and flavors of black pepper, black cherries, blackberries and sweet spices.

Other reds Abacela Vineyard & Winery 2005 Umpqua Cuvée Tempranillo Umpqua Valley, 1,228 cases, 13.3% alc., $20

Excellent. Thanks to Abacela, this classic

Spanish variety is gaining in popularity throughout the Pacific Northwest. Now-departed winemaker Kiley Evans used Tempranillo grapes from the estate Fault Line as well as McCorquodle vineyards, both in the Umpqua Valley. It opens with aromas of plums, cherries, rhubarb and mild oak, followed by rich flavors of dark cherries and blackberry jam.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Petit Verdot Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 14.1% alc., $22

Excellent. It doesn’t say it on the label, but all the grapes for this limited-release wine came from the warm Wahluke Slope. Petit Verdot is probably the least-known of the five major Bordeaux red grapes, and winemaker Bob Bertheau puts it on display here. It opens with aromas of rose petals, black cherries and perfumy oak, followed by intense flavors of black currants, black cherries, cinnamon and clove, while moderate tannins provide structure. Pair with lamb or beef.

Morrison Lane 2005 Cinsault Walla Walla Valley, 74 cases, 13.5% alc., $27

Recommended. Cinsault is the fourth-most-planted

wine grape in France and is most important in the Languedoc-Roussillon region, though it also is grown in the Southern Rhône Valley. At this small, family-run winery in Walla Walla, Wash., it has produced a wine with alluring aromas of ripe plums, black currants and baker’s chocolate. On the palate are approachable flavors of ripe cherries, tobacco leaf and red plums.

Thurston Wolfe 2006 Zephyr Ridge Petite Sirah Washington, 425 cases, 15% alc., $22

Outstanding! This is Wade Wolfe’s fifth release of

this Rhône variety, and it may be his best to date. That’s not surprising because Petite Sirah tends to improve as vines age, even more than other varieties. The grapes come from one of Wolfe’s favorite vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, and the wine was aged in barrel for 13 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases months. It opens with aromas of molasses, black currants and dark chocolate, followed by bold, rich flavors of blackberries, boysenberries and chocolate undertones. As is typical of the variety, this wine is backed with stout tannins, but they are expertly balanced with all the ripe, dark fruit. A wine this massive requires hearty fare.

Thurston Wolfe 2006 Tempranillo Horse Heaven Hills, 70 cases, 15% alc., $28

Excellent. Destiny Ridge Vineyard south of this

Prosser, Wash., winery grew the grapes for Wade Wolfe’s first release of Tempranillo, the wine made famous in Spain’s Rioja region. Wolfe also blended in 14% Syrah from his estate vineyard in the Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of boysenberries and Bing cherries, followed by rich flavors of black cherries, wild berries, plums and chocolate.

Red blends Basalt Cellars 2005 Perimeter Red Columbia Valley, 173 cases, 14.9% alc., $30

Excellent. This new Bordeaux-style blend from a

young Clarkston, Wash., winery uses grapes from some of Washington’s finest vineyards, including Champoux, Pepper Bridge, Weinbau and Elerding. It shows off aromas of black cherries, black licorice, sweet herbs and dark chocolate, followed by multi-dimensional flavors of cherries, raspberries and licorice. Plush tannins back the massive fruit flavors.

Cave B Estate Winery 2004 Cuvée du Soleil Columbia Valley, 240 cases, 14% alc., $45

Excellent. This Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot,

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is a delicious red with endless complexity. It opens with aromas of pie cherries, red peppercorns, vanilla bean, tamarind and even a hint of teriyaki sauce. It’s a big, smooth, hedonistic wine on the attack with loads of dark fruit, then fairly stout tannins back everything up from the midpalate on back.

Challenger Ridge Vineyard & Cellars

by flavors of ripe plums, hints of strawberries and a touch of tar. It’s richly structured in the midpalate and through the lengthy finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Limited Release Boreal Columbia Valley, 700 cases, 14.2% alc., $30

Outstanding! Crafted in the style of the Northern Rhône Valley, this wine is primarily Syrah (98%) with a bit of co-fermented Viognier. The grapes came from the Wahluke Slope, Yakima Valley and broader Columbia Valley. It’s a marvelous wine with aromas of vanilla bean, sweet smoke, chocolate syrup and dar fruit, followed by flavors of dried cherries, plums and semi-sweet chocolate. It has a nice heft to the palate.

Columbia Crest 2004 Walter Clore Private Reserve Columbia Valley, 7,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $24

Outstanding! Walt Clore is honored in this annual bottling by Columbia Crest. Clore, who passed away in 2003, would have appreciated the quality and value this wine offers. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (54%) and Merlot and might well be the finest yet. It provides classic aromas of black currants, blackberries, cloves and black olives, followed by bold yet elegant flavors of ripe plums, black cherries and currants. It’s richly complex with layers of fruit, spices, sweet tannins and right-on acidity. This should age beautifully for a decade or more.

Cougar Crest Winery NV Dedication Two Red Wine Washington, 1,532 cases, 13.6% alc., $20

Excellent. This blend, with proceeds benefiting

Doernbecher Children’s Hospital in Portland, includes Bordeaux varieties as well as Syrah and Lemberger. It opens with aromas of black olives, raspberries, caramel and maple syrup, followed by juicy flavors of pomegranates, red currants and black cherries. Smooth tannins give way to a supple finish.

Fidelitas Wines 2005 Boushey Vineyard Red Wine Yakima Valley, 308 cases, 14.3% alc., $50

Recommended. Viticulturists like Dick Boushey

WINE REVIEWS

and Cabernet Franc from six top vineyards throughout the Columbia Valley. The result is a superior wine with aroma of black fruit, moist earth and sweet oak spice, followed by flavors of blueberries, Bing cherries and blackberries. A rich mouth feel is enhanced with notes of dark chocolate, leading to a lengthy finish.

Fort Walla Walla Cellars 2005 Reserve Walla Walla Valley, 225 cases, 14% alc., $45

Outstanding! This may be the best wine yet from this boutique producer in downtown Walla Walla, Wash. It’s a blend that’s heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon (77%), along with Merlot, Cab Franc and Malbec, with fruit from five top vineyards. It’s a beautiful wine that opens with aromas of black currants, chocolate brownies and a fair bit of spicy oak. On the palate, it’s a big, big wine. It shows off huge density of fruit, including black currants and blackberries, all backed with ample acidity and assertive tannins. It’s a gigantic wine built for the long haul. Between the structure of the wine and the greatness of the vintage, this could age well for a couple of decades.

Four Lakes Chelan Winery 2006 Trinity Red Wine Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.6% alc., $24

Excellent. This young winery in the Chelan region

is named for four lakes: Chelan, Rose, Wapato and Dry. This red blend shows off aromas of black currants, ripe cherries and brown sugar, followed by flavors of black cherries, dried strawberries and hints of mocha.

Glacial Lake Missoula Wine Co 2004 Deluge Yakima Valley, 225 cases, 14.5% alc., $40

Recommended. This winery in the border town of

Blaine, Wash., gets its inspiration from the massive floods that occurred 15,000 years ago in Eastern Washington. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc offers aromas of cedar, rhubarb, balsamic and light cherries, followed by flavors of blueberries, pie cherries and oak. It’s a big, chewy wine with bold tannins and rich fruit to back them up.

Glen Fiona

Cascade Mountains, winemaker Randy Bonaventura has released a 50-50 blend of Bordeaux varieties that reveals aromas of dried strawberries and sweet herbs, followed by clean, bright flavors of cherries and green peppercorns. Assertive tannins keep up with all the fruit and lead to a strong finish. Pair this with grilled polenta or chicken in a marinara sauce.

could sell their grapes to anybody they want, yet they love working with the top winemakers to see what can be coaxed from their fruit each year. This is winemaker Charlie Hoppes’ first vineyard-designated wine with Boushey, and it is a dandy. It’s a blend of Merlot (53%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cabernet Franc. It opens with aromas of dried strawberries and toasted oak, followed by flavors of black cherries, plums and chocolate. The tannins assert themselves early and could use a few years in the cellar before they are tamed.

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Fidelitas Wines

2005 Limited Release Austral

2004 Optu

Golden Mile Cellars

Columbia Valley, 875 cases, 14.2% alc., $30

Columbia Valley, 554 cases, 14.6% alc., $40

2005 Black Arts 5th Element Red

Excellent. Ste. Michelle crafts two Rhône-style

Outstanding! This has been owner/winemaker

Okanagan Valley, 1,503 cases, 13.7% alc., $36 CDN

wines primarily for wine club members, this one in the spirit of the Southern Rhône. It is a blend of Syrah (43%), Mourvedre (36%) and Grenache. This wine shows some fascinating characteristics, beginning with aromas of blackberries, black licorice and toasty oak, followed

Charlie Hoppes’ flagship wine since he launched Fidelitas in 2000. Originally, it was called “Meritage” until Hoppes came up with the more fanciful name derived from “best” in Latin. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Merlot (27%), Malbec (10%), Petit Verdot (7%)

Excellent. This is a blend of Merlot (65%) and

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec Columbia Valley, 170 cases, 13.9% alc., $18

Excellent. Using grapes from east of the

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

2004 Claret Columbia Valley, 390 cases, 13.8% alc., $30

Excellent. This Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec uses grapes from four vineyards, primarily Roza Hills in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA. Winemakers Bill Ammons and Justin Neufeld crafted a wine with aromas of cedar, cranberries, Belgian chocolate and toffee, followed by succulent flavors of ripe black cherries and vanilla. Ample acidity appears on the midpalate, and the tannins grip the palate nicely on the finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon (28%), as well as Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. It offers aromas of blackberries, Graham crackers, cedar and moist earth, followed by flavors of pie cherries, boysenberries and black tea. FA L L 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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Horan Estates Winery Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 14.1% alc., $22

vors of ripe plums and cherries. A lush, juicy midpalate is backed with supple tannins for a balanced and delicious wine.

Excellent. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%),

Northwest Cellars

2005 HVH

Merlot (35%) and Syrah, this is crafted by Doug McDougall in his Wenatchee, Wash., winery. It reveals aromas and flavors of black cherries, chocolate and cherry pipe tobacco. The blendhonors Doug’s grandmother, Helen VanDivort Horan, who passed away in 2004.

lowed by juicy flavors of blackberries, ripe plums and blueberries. Assertive tannins require some cellar time to calm down, or pair this with a fatty cut of beef.

2005 Intrigue

Cave B Estate Winery

Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $17

2005 SageCliffe 100

Outstanding! Bob Delf has built his Kirkland,

Washington, 889 cases, 15% alc., $22

Wash., winery using a variety of Northwest wines, selling them under the “Northwest Cellars” label as well as the lucrative privatelabel market (for weddings, corporate gifts, etc.). This red, a blend of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, is loaded with aromas of black plums, blackberries and coffee, followed by big, lush flavors of berries, cherries, coffee and oak. This wine has huge richness, thanks to the massive levels of fruit, yet there’s plenty of structure to back it up.

Excellent. SageCliffe is the name of the Bryan family’s vision for a community that can be created near the vineyard, winery and Gorge Amphitheater. The wine is a blend of Merlot and Cab. It shows off high-toned fruit in the aromas, including Rainier cherries, along with vanilla bean, crushed leaf, Graber olives and something that reminded us of a country road after a summer rainstorm. Its smooth flavors of blackberries, plums and dark chocolate are backed with velvety tannins that lead to an elegant finish.

Nota Bene

Saviah Cellars

2005 Ciel du Cheval

2005 Big Sky Cuvée

2005 Dark Star

Red Mountain, 200 cases, 14.7% alc., $35

Columbia Valley, 469 cases, 14.1% alc., $35

Columbia Valley, 880 cases, 15.7% alc., $24

Excellent. This blend from a boutique Seattle pro-

Excellent. This wine is a tribute to owners

Recommended. This Southern Rhône style of

ducer is a nearly evenly split blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from one of Washington’s finest vineyards. It opens with aromas of black raspberries, strawberries and vanilla notes, followed by ripe, delicious flavors of berries, black pepper and black currants. The tannins are well managed, providing structure but not a lot more.

Richand and Anita Funk’s native Montana, where they moved from in 1991. It’s a blend of Merlot (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (24%), Cabernet Franc (14%) Malbec (3%) and Petit Verdot (2%), primarily from Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Frenchman Hills. It opens with spicy aromas of Saskatoon berries, cocoa and crushed leaf, followed by flavors of black cherries and ripe plums. This has a certain thickness on the palate, which balances the somewhat-assertive tannins. Pair this with marbled steaks or prime rib.

Jacksonville Vineyards 2005 Claret Applegate Valley, 180 cases, 14.5% alc., $23

Recommended. This is a blend of Cabernet

Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, all from estate vineyards in Southern Oregon. It arrives with aromas of plums, dark chocolate and green peppercorns, followed by flavors of blackberries and black currant jam.

Kana Winery

blend includes Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, a combination that is gaining popularity in Washington. This opens with aromas of molasses, blueberries and sweet herbs, followed by smooth, pretty flavors of black cherries, minerals and Bosco chocolate syrup.

Kana Winery 2005 Scarlet Fire Reserve Red Yakima Valley, 200 cases, 15.8% alc., $25

Excellent. This downtown Yakima, Wash., winery

has crafted a red blend using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with much of the fruit coming from famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain. It opens with aromas of blueberries, dried cherries and espresso, followed by flavors of dark fruit and chocolate-covered espresso beans. This wine is hedonistic on the palate, with pleasant plumpness from the midpalate through the finish.

Martin-Scott Winery 2006 Du Fratelli Syrah-Sirah Columbia Valley, 23 cases, 14.6% alc., $25

Outstanding! This Wenatchee, Wash., winery has crafted a blend of two grapes that are interconnected by name and lineage. Petite Sirah is the cross-pollenization of Peloursin and Syrah, two Rhône varieties. This is a superb blend that brings together the richness of Syrah and the sturdiness of Petite Sirah. It opens with aromas of boysenberries, sweet spices and Rainier cherries, followed by juicy flavors of blueberries, leather and pipe tobacco. Try pairing this with game meats or marbled beef.

Nota Bene 2005 Conner Lee Vineyard Columbia Valley, 175 cases, 14.45% alc., $32

Outstanding! Conner Lee is a vineyard in the Columbia Basin near the town of Othello, and it’s popular with many of the state’s top winemakers. Tim Narby, owner/winemaker of this Seattle producer, has crafted a superb blend of Merlot (57%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, then aged the wine for 21 months in French oak. The result is an expressive wine with aromas of Godiva chocolates, cranberries and coffee, followed by flavors of black cherries, red currants and blackberries. It’s a seamless wine with silky smooth tannins.

Palotai Wines

Saviah Cellars 2005 Laurella Columbia Valley, 147 cases, 14.1% alc., $35

Recommended. This is the second release of this

Super Tuscan-style blend of Sangiovese (53%), Cabernet Franc (37%) and Merlot. It honors Theresa and Sam Laurella, who help at this Walla Walla Valley winery. It opens with aromas of red plums and coffee, followed by flavors of rich, juicy cherries and underlying bittersweet chocolate. It has a wonderful mouth feel and should pair well with hearty pasta dishes.

2004 Meritage

Tildio Winery

Umpqua Valley, 210 cases, 13.2% alc., $25

2005 Robusto

Outstanding! Gabor Palotai emigrated from his

Columbia Valley, 328 cases, 13.9% alc., $22

native Hungary, bringing a family tradition of winemaking with him. He settled in Southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, where he’s been producing delicious wines for more than a halfdecade. This blend arrives with aromas of black plums, black olives and raspberries, followed by flavors of blackberries and ripe plums. It’s big and juicy with a rich mouth feel and approachable tannins. It deserves pairing with a hearty meal.

Excellent. Our 2008 Washington Winery to Watch

Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Pirouette

2005 Voluptuous

Outstanding! Winemaker David Morris is hitting

2005 Red Wine

Okanagan Valley, 460 cases, 14.5% alc., $30 CDN

Columbia Valley, 1,693 cases, 14.6% alc., $55

Recommended. A blend of Merlot and Cabernet

Recommended. Napa winemakers Agustin

Franc, this wine uses grapes from the Naramata Bench near Penticton, B.C. It offers aromas of leather, spice and blueberries, followed by flavors of blackberries, plums and blueberries. It’s a big wine with audacious tannins backing up plentiful fruit.

Napeequa Vintners 2005 Trailhead Red, Aasgard Pass Edition

his stride at this boutique winery in Leavenworth, Wash. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah from three Yakima Valley vineyards, and it saw 18 months in French and American oak. This opens with inviting aromas of red peppercorns, blueberries and red currants, followed by fla-

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Huneeus and Philippe Melka teamed up on this Long Shadows wine, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Malbec and Cab Franc. It opens with aromas of cedar, cherry pipe tobacco, leather and cinnamon, fol-

continues to impress us with each wine it releases from its Chelan location. This is a blend of Merlot, Cab, Malbec and Petit Verdot. It offers up aromas of plums, sweet spices and chocolate, followed by luscious flavors of blackberries, vanilla and oak spice. It’s an intriguing wine with a plush mouth feel and smooth finish.

Van Westen Vineyards

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WINE REVIEWS

Tagaris Winery

Rogue Valley, 550 cases, 14.5% alc., $19

whites will enjoy this stylistic offering with features notes of butter, canned corn, nuts, lemongrass and white-fleshed orchard fruit.

Excellent. This blend of Merlot, Syrah and a

Cave B Estate Winery

Excellent. Richland, Wash., winemaker Frank

NV Lava Red

touch of Viognier already has won gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition for this winery in Bend, Ore. It opens with aromas of strawberry pie, vanilla and cedar, followed by flavors of black cherries and juicy berries. It’s a big wine that should pair with a hearty meal.

Yellow Hawk Cellar 2005 Solstice Columbia Valley, 564 cases, 13.9% alc., $24

Excellent. This blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet

Sauvignon and Syrah won a gold at this year’s Washington State Wine Competition. It’s produced by Tim Sampson and Barbara Hetrick, who run this little Walla Walla winery that focuses primarily on Italian-style wines. This opens with aromas of violets, crushed thyme, black olives, vanilla and coffee, followed by flavors of black plums and ripe cherries. It’s soft and luscious with velvety tannins on the midpalate that pick up steam toward the finish.

Port style Abacela Vineyards & Winery

2007 SageCliffe 100 Chardonnay Washington, 425 cases, 12.5% alc., $18

Excellent. New winemaker Freddy Arredondo, a

graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s wine program, flashes his knowledge with this balanced Chardonnay. Pears and apples are joined by grass, fresh snow peas and a whiff of sea air. Fresh-picked Pink Lady apples sing on the palate, yielding briefly to a creamy midpalate, before lingering acidity brings the orchard fruit back in the finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2006 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 4,700 cases, 14.1% alc., $25

Excellent. The late Walter Clore predicted great-

ness for this site more than 30 years ago, and the legacy continues. There’s lots of smoky oak and tropical fruit aromas, and they funnel into a delicious entry without edges. It’s smooth and rich with note of ghee joining apples and pears in the midpalate, finished with well-integrated oak.

2005 Eliseo Silva Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,600 cases, 13.5% alc., $12

Roth puts this second label under screwcap and pays tribute to the longtime vineyard manager for Mike Taggares. There’s pleasing integration of tropical and orchard fruit with herbal, oak and butter tones throughout. Sweet pineapple and Pink Lady apples tickle the tongue. Bananas and butter add weight while citrus acidy provides balance and length.

Kramer Vineyards 2005 Barrel Select Chardonnay Yamhill-Carlton District, 103 cases, 13% alc., $20

Excellent. Trudy Kramer enjoys experimenting, and this combination of reserve barrels with Laffort’s VL2 yeast has merit. There’s a woodsy haze behind the smoky oak and lemon aromas with intriguing floral hints. An entry of juicy peaches and a spoonful of lemon yogurt pushes the oak influence to the back end. In between is an acid balance with pleasing dryness.

Kyra Wines 2007 Chardonnay

Chateau Ste. Michelle

Columbia Valley, 360 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

2006 Indian Wells Chardonnay

Recommended. The Baerlocher operation in

Southern Oregon, 152 cases, 19% alc., $25

Columbia Valley, 42,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $18

Outstanding! Annually, this is one of the most highly

Outstanding! Bob Bertheau strikes a perfect bal-

Moses Lake, Wash., includes estate fruit and continues to grow. They doubled production of Chardonnay for this fresh style with aromas of pink grapefruit, apricots, grass and crushed filberts. There’s more orchard fruit on the palate with pleasing tartness and a finish of Ritz cracker. Enjoy with broasted chicken or an Asian salad that’s not too spicy.

2005 Port

prized wines with Abacela fans — and is fast gaining fame amid those who appreciate fortified wines. This is made with two Portugese varieties, Tinta Roriz (80.2%) and Bastardo (19.8%). This is a massive wine with aromas of raisins and chocolate followed by flavors of molasses, cherry cough syrup, chocolate-covered cherries and blueberries. This is still quite young and needs time for the wine to integrate with the alcohol.

Whites Chardonnay Apolloni Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay Willamette Valley, 230 cases, 12.5% alc., $14

Recommended. This young winery in Forest

Grove, Ore., prides itself on Italian varieties, but it also shows a nice touch with Burgundian styles. Fresh fruit and herb notes focus on peaches and a sprig of rosemary, wrapped in a crisp body that will pair nicely with seafood.

Barnard Griffin 2007 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, 12.9% alc., $14

Recommended. The 30th vintage in Washington

state for Rob Griffin allowed him to balance fruit and oak in a quaffable fashion. There are light apple aromas amid almonds, cloves and anise. A clean entry of orchard fruit and smooth mouth feel with light acidity allows the apples and pears to hang in the finish.

Cave B Estate Winery 2006 Cave B Vineyards Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 367 cases, 15% alc., $19

Recommended. Aficionados of oak-influenced W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ance of oak, fruit and acidity, and the Indian Wells reference is more for an elegant reserve style rather than a focus on the Wahluke Slope vineyard. Roasted marshmallows, citrus, vanilla, butterscotch and minerality awaken the nose. It’s creamy and buttery on the entry with ripe pear flavors, lemony acidity and just a bit of foodfriendly bitterness with artichoke in the finish.

Milbrandt Vineyards 2006 Legacy Evergreen Chardonnay

Columbia Crest

Washington, 1,000 cases, 14.1% alc., $23

2006 Grand Estates Chardonnay

Recommended. Butch and Jerry Milbrandt have

Columbia Valley, 202,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $11

achieved success at this 450-acre vineyard near George with Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and now Chardonnay. Its legacy in barrel shows with hints of vanilla and caramel, but there’s also aromas of dried apples and honeydew melon. On the attack are Gala apples, a nice burst of minerality and lemon-lime acidity in the midpalate, then a finish of spiced pears.

Excellent. Bobby Flay could really do some cook-

ing with his massive bottling by Ray Einberger’s crew. It’s dominated by pleasing citrus outside and inside. Fresh-squeezed oranges and flinty minerality are finished on the palate with pleasant — and food friendly — lemon-rind bitterness.

Columbia Crest H3 2006 Chardonnay

Milbrandt Vineyards

Horse Heaven Hills, 6,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

2006 Legacy Sundance Chardonnay

Recommended. This new project at the Patterson,

Wash., giant focuses on nearby estate plantings that now are two decades old. It’s a less-expensive reserve style with big notes of apples, buttered popcorn and an ample dose of citrusy acidity.

Domaine de Chaberton Estate Winery 2006 Chardonnay British Columbia, 14% alc., $13 CDN

Outstanding! French native Claude Violet recently

sold his Langley winery to Asian businessmen who’ve continued producing Chardonnay of this caliber. Dusty orchard fruit and sandalwood aromas transition to a fruit-forward palate. Sweet lime and bright lemon notes are met by fresh pears and apples on the weighty midpalate, giving way to citrus pith in the finish.

Washington, 2,200 cases, 14.4% alc., $20

Excellent. The brothers planted this Wahluke

Slope site in 1997, so the fruit is beginning to hit its stride. Gordy Hill loaded it with aromas of peaches and apples with lemon meringue pie and toasted coconut. It’s more of the same on the palate, joined by apricots and tangerines, enjoyable crispness and a hint of more toast in the finish.

Milbrandt Vineyards 2006 Traditions Chardonnay Washington, 5,000 cases, 13.9% alc., $13

Recommended. A blend of three vineyards pro-

duces hints of white orchard fruit, toasted marshmallows and flint that finds balance on the palate with spritzy citrus and a bit of honey in the farewell. FA L L 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,375 cases, 13.5% alc., $22

Recommended. Woodinville wizard Mike Januik

uses fruit from this estate site in the Frenchman Hills for a zesty Chardonnay. Aromas of grapefruit, rosewater and margarita mix continue in the mouth with a big squirt of lime, tropical notes on the midpalate and grapefruit in the sendoff.

Three Rivers Winery 2006 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 1,071 cases, 14.3% alc., $19

Recommended. Holly Turner showcases fruit, oak

and acidity in this bottling that opens with aromas of apples, lemon peel and perfumy oak. The drink yields more cut apples and hints of pears in a light syrup, yielding to a midpalate where oak emerges.

Township 7 Vineyards & Winery 2005 Stone Mountain Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 188 cases, 13.9% alc., $25 CDN

Recommended. This Lower Mainland winery

tapped into Okanagan Falls for an oak-influenced release that opens with aromas of apricots, candied pineapple, butter rum and Corn Pops. On the palate, it’s front-loaded with pears and jicama, leading into a buttery midpalate that gives way to a finish of Apple Jacks.

Pinot Gris Apolloni Vineyards 2007 Pinot Grigio Willamette Valley, 799 cases, 13% alc., $14

Recommended. This northern Willamette Valley

winery is one of the state’s first to take advantage of the freedom to call Pinot Gris by its Italian name, per a change in Oregon rules last year. This wine offers aromas of pears and apples and flavors of orchard fruits and oranges.

Arcane Cellars 2007 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 450 cases, 12.8% alc., $16

Excellent. This young operation near Salem, Ore., got our attention earlier this year when its Riesling finished amid the best in the Northwest. Now, it’s proving its mettle with other varieties. This fruit-driven Pinot Gris reveals aromas of Jonagold apples, Bartlett pears and lychee, followed by bright flavors of tropical fruits, pineapples and fresh-cut apples.

Arcane Cellars 2007 Reserve Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 190 cases, 13.8% alc., $20

Recommended. This reserve-level white from a

fast-rising winery near Salem, Ore., offers aromas of lemons, cantaloupe and peaches, followed by viscous flavors of lemon meringue. The lemon and its acidity play along the palate throughout, though broadens on the finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 50,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $13

Excellent. Conventional wisdom dictates that

Pinot Gris should be grown in cooler climates,

W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • FA L L 2 0 0 8

not under the blazing sun of Washington’s Columbia Valley. Yet grape growers have found cooler areas, such as the Yakima Valley, where this wine comes from. It has 8% Viognier blended in, which provides an edge of complexity. This opens with aromas of Golden Delicious apples, rosewater and flint, followed by flavors of applesauce and ripe pears.

Columbia Crest 2006 Grand Estates Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley, 20,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $11

doubt why they gravitated toward it at their new operation. This is a lovely version with aromas of pineapples, tangerines and fresh-cut apples, followed by flavors of pears and applesauce. It offers a luscious juiciness in the midpalate, all backed with solid acidity.

Milbrandt Vineyards 2006 Tradition Pinot Gris Washington, 900 cases, 12.9% alc., $13

Excellent. Using grapes from their estate

is to pick the grapes while they still have plenty of acidity. The grapes for this wine were picked at 22 brix, capturing the crisp essence of the fruit. It shows on the flavors with aromas of lemons, limes and pears, followed by flavors of tropical fruit, cantaloupe and fresh-cut apples.

Evergreen Vineyards, the Milbrandt brothers have put together a delicious Pinot Gris. Evergreen is near George, Wash., a somewhat cooler area of the Columbia Valley. This wine opens with aromas of grapefruits, apples and pastry dough, followed by flavors of Granny Smith apples, limes and minerals. It’s finished dry and crisp and topped with a screwcap to ensure quality.

Columbia Winery

Shadow Mountain Vineyards

2007 Pinot Gris

2006 Pinot Gris

Columbia Valley, 7,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

Willamette Valley, 594 cases, 13.5% alc., $14

Excellent. This wine has quite a legacy, as now-

retired winemaker David Lake was the first to produce a Washington Pinot Gris. This reveals aromas of grapefruits, lychee, rosewater and lemons, followed by flavors of gooseberries, grapefruits and crisp pears. Enjoy with seared scallops, spicy Thai or even clam chowder.

Outstanding! This wine from the southern Willamette Valley is a gorgeous example of what is possible in western Oregon. It opens with aromas of lemons, mangos, tangerines and butterscotch candy, followed by flavors of apple blossoms, tangerines and Mandarin oranges. Enjoy with scallops, oysters or ahi tuna.

Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery

Tefft Cellars

2006 Ogopogo’s Lair Pinot Grigio

2007 Pinot Grigio

Okanagan Valley, 4,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $17 CDN

Yakima Valley, 508 cases, 12.5% alc., $13

Excellent. This second label for Mission Hill Family Estate in Kelowna is producing several delicious and whimsical wines. This one pays tribute to the sea monster that roams Okanagan Lake. The wine opens with aromas of Golden Delicious apples, pears and rosewater, followed by flavors of fresh-cut apples and pears.

Recommended. Owner/winemaker Joel Tefft has

Goose Ridge Estate Winery

2007 Pinot Gris

2006 Pinot Gris

Willamette Valley, 2.500 cases, 13.1% alc., $18

Columbia Valley, 300 cases, 13.8% alc., $18

Outstanding! Over the past several years, few Oregon wineries have made wine as consistently delicious as Van Duzer in Dallas. Winemaker Jim Kakacek crafted this wine from estate grapes, and it’s marvelous. It opens with aromas of pineapples, lemons and limes, followed by flavors of tropical fruits and citrus. It is perfectly crisp, never stepping over the line to bitter. Enjoy with scallops, oysters or Dungeness crab.

Excellent. One secret to delicious Pinot Gris/Grigio

Excellent. Goose Ridge, the largest contiguous

wine grape vineyard in the Pacific Northwest, supplied the grapes for this delicious wine. It opens with aromas of spices, blossoms and butter run, followed by flavors of an orange popsicle and something that reminded us of Schweppes bitter orange.

Gray Monk Estate Winery 2006 25th Anniversary Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 8,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $18 CDN

Recommended. Every bottle of this wine pays trib-

ute to one of British Columbia’s oldest and most respected wineries. And this is the winery’s namesake grape (Gray Monk is a nickname for Pinot Gris). This wine opens with aromas of citrus, pineapple and poached apples, followed by flavors of peaches, oranges and hints of rosemary.

Mercer Estates

been producing Pinot Grigio for a number of years. This vintage shows off aromas of lemons, lychee and honeydew melons, followed by flavors of lemons and tropical fruits. Pair with shellfish or halibut with a mango salsa.

Van Duzer Vineyards

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Amavi Cellars 2006 Semillon Columbia Valley, 576 cases, 13.9% alc., $20

Recommended. Using grapes from vineyards in the Walla Walla and Columbia valleys, JeanFrançois Pellet has crafted a tasty version of this white Bordeaux variety. It opens with aromas of butterscotch and tropical fruits, followed by flavors of pineapples, apples and a hint of oak.

2007 Pinot Gris

Cave B Estate Winery

Columbia Valley, 3,733 cases, 13% alc., $15

2007 Sauvignon Blanc

Excellent. When Mike Hogue and David Forsyth

Columbia Valley, 130 cases, 14.3% alc., $19

ran things up the street from their Prosser, Wash., winery at Hogue Cellars, Pinot Gris was one of their most successful wines. There’s little

Recommended. Freddy Arredondo is the winemak-

er now at this winery in George, Wash. This Sauvignon Blanc offers up aromas of fuzzy W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Cave B Estate Winery 2006 Cave B Vineyards Semillon Columbia Valley, 334 cases, 15.1% alc., $19

Recommended. This blend of Semillon (80%) and

Sauvignon Blanc is a big, bold, buttery wine that should appeal to Chardonnay lovers. It opens with aromas of smoke, butter and oak, followed by rich flavors of butter rum, pineapples, apples and tropical fruits.

Icicle Ridge Winery 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Washington, 300 cases, 12% alc., $23

Outstanding! Don Wood is the winemaker behind

this up-and-coming operation in the north-central Washington town of Peshastin. This is a gorgeous Sauv Blanc with aromas of apples and Bit-O-Honey candy. On the palate, this provides clean, bright flavors of pears, mangoes and passionfruit.

Mercer Estates 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 7,504 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Excellent. Winemaker David Forsyth brought in

grapes from the Columbia and Yakima valleys for this delicious Sauvignon Blanc. It opens with aromas of sweet tropical and pineapple aromas, followed by flavors of tangerines, pineapples and even a hint of almond.

Novelty Hill

near the town of Mattawa. This wine comes from estate grapes and reveals classic Gewürztraminer aromas of lychee, grapefruit, rosewater and apple cider, followed by flavors of rosewater, lychee, Key limes and grapefruits.

Icicle Ridge Winery 2007 Three Blondes Gewürztraminer Washington, 600 cases, 12% alc., $23

Outstanding! This small winery in Peshastin,

Wash., has been on a roll the past couple of years, producing one great wine after another. This classic Gewürztraminer opens with aromas of sweet lemons, orange oil and lychee, followed by off-dry flavors of lemons, oranges, peaches in cream and orchard fruit. It has a beautiful mouth feel through the impressive finish.

Pentâge Wines 2007 Gewurztraminer Okanagan Valley, 211 cases, 13% alc., $18 CDN

Excellent. Using estate grapes from vineyards

overlooking Skaha Lake south of Penticton, British Columbia, winemaker Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie have crafted a luscious Gewürztraminer. It opens with aromas of Anjou pears and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of minerals, poached pears and a touch of rosewater on the finish.

Viognier Abacela Winery & Vineyards 2007 Viognier

2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

Umpqua Valley, 270 cases, 14.2% alc., $21

Columbia Valley, 999 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Recommended. Winemaker Kiley Evans used

Recommended. This Sauv Blanc from the

grapes from the estate Fault Line Vineyards for this delicious white wine. It opens with aromas of spices, honeysuckle and apples, followed by flavors of pears and apples.

Frenchman Hills near Royal City, Wash., also includes 12% Semillon to give it more of a white Bordeaux feel. It opens with aromas of oranges, lemons and tropical fruits, followed by clean, bright flavors of pineapples and mangoes.

Gewürztraminer Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Gewürztraminer Columbia Valley, 130 cases, 12.6% alc., $22

Recommended. Winemaker Freddy Arredondo left

this off-dry with 2% residual sugar, allowing the fruit to really shine. It opens with aromas of lychee, pears and apricots, followed by flavors of honey, peaches and oranges with a hint of caramel on the finish.

Arcane Cellars 2007 Del Rio Vineyard Viognier Rogue Valley, 95 cases, 14.3% alc., $24

Excellent. Del Rio has quickly established itself

as one of Oregon’s top vineyards and already has a well-earned reputation for Rhône varieties. Thus, this wine’s quality should not be too surprising. It opens with aromas of ambrosia salad, rosewater, peaches and pears, followed by flavors of dried pineapples and pears. It’s a beautifully juicy wine with just enough acidity to keep it from being flabby.

Balsamroot Winery

Columbia Winery

2007 Viognier

2007 Gewürztraminer

Yakima Valley, 180 cases, 14.2% alc., $19

Columbia Valley, 16,500 cases, 12% alc., $12

Recommended. This winery from the Chelan

Excellent. Columbia was Washington’s first win-

region of Washington has crafted a Viognier from Lonesome Spring Ranch near Benton City. It offers aromas of peaches, pears and honeysuckle, followed by creamy flavors of lemon chiffon and Golden Delicious apples.

ery to work exclusively with European varieties, so it has been producing Gewürztraminer for a long, long time. This edition offers aromas of orange and apple blossoms and pears, followed by balanced, bright flavors of oranges and white stone fruit.

Ginkgo Forest Winery 2007 Gewürztraminer Wahluke Slope, 192 cases, 12.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! This is a delicious wine from a new

producer on Washington’s warm Wahluke Slope W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Columbia Winery 2006 Viognier Yakima Valley, 400 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. Viognier tends to fare well in slightly

cooler climates, such as the Yakima Valley. This Viognier from one of the state’s largest producers reveals aromas of candy corn, vanilla

WINE REVIEWS

wafers and lemons. On the palate, it offers mouth-watering citrus and shows a bit of oak from four months in the barrel.

Cougar Crest Winery 2006 Viognier Walla Walla Valley, 1,123 cases, 14.2% alc., $20

Recommended. Using estate fruit, this Walla

Walla, Wash., winery has crafted a tasty Viognier that offers aromas of kiwis, peaches and grapefruits, followed by flavors of pears, apples and a hint of citrus.

Dobbes Family Estate 2005 Viognier Rogue Valley, 519 cases, 14.6% alc., $20

Outstanding! Joe Dobbes led the way with Southern Oregon Rhône varieties when he was winemaker for Willamette Valley Vineyards, so it’s no wonder he continues to make some of the top Viogniers from the Rogue. This reveals aromas of lemongrass, apples, grapefruits and lemons, followed by flavors of pears and apples. Steely acidity props up the luscious fruit, leading us to pair this with scallops.

Morrison Lane Vineyards 2006 Viognier Walla Walla Valley, 104 cases, 15.2% alc., $23

Recommended. Winemaker Dan Morrison has

crafted an estate vineyard Viognier that offers pretty aromas of peaches, apricots and hominy, followed by luscious flavors of peaches, ripe pears and butterscotch candy.

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Viognier Columbia Valley, 192 cases, 13.5% alc., $20

Excellent. Winemaker Mike Januik recognized

the potential for this vineyard in the Frenchman Hills even before it was planted. Now, he’s worked with the fruit for nearly a decade. This Northern Rhône style white opens with aromas of apples, honey and sweet spices, followed by flavors of oranges, grapefruits and Mandarin oranges. It has a smooth mouth feel with a deep, rich finish.

Quady North 2006 Steelhead Run Vineyard Viognier Applegate Valley, 70 cases, 14% alc., $25

Recommended. The Quady family, famous for its

California wines, particularly dessert offerings, expanded into Southern Oregon in 2005 when it purchased 100 acres of land in the Applegate Valley. It launched Quady North with the 2006 vintage. This vineyard-designated wine is the first release from Quady North, and it shows off aromas of allspice, orange oil and anise, followed by flavors of sweet lemons and licorice notes. It’s an intriguing, even beguiling wine.

Van Westen Vineyards 2006 Orlando Vineyard Viognier Naramata Bench, 104 cases, 14.2% alc., $25 CDN

Recommended. This Okanagan Valley winery has

crafted a tasty Viognier using local grapes. It opens with aromas of lemon zest, sandalwood and tropical fruits, followed by flavors of pears, white peaches and apples. It has eye-popping acidity, so it would pair well with seafood. FA L L 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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William Church Winery 2007 Viognier Columbia Valley, 113 cases, 14.1% alc., $20

Excellent. This Woodinville, Wash., winery took

advantage of grapes from famed Conner Lee Vineyard in the Columbia Basin to produce a Viognier that is loaded with fruit. It opens with aromas of figs, peaches in cream and fresh-cut apples, followed by flavors of lychee, ripe pears and peaches.

Other whites Abacela Vineyards & Winery 2007 Albariño Umpqua Valley, 474 cases, 13.1% alc., $23

Outstanding! This Spanish variety is right at home in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley. The Jones family planted this on north- and east-facing slopes to avoid the summer sun, and the results are stunning. This opens with pretty aromas of cloves, flowers and Asian pears, followed by flavors of crisp apples, pears and other orchard fruits.

Abiqua Wind Vineyard 2007 Chloe’s Breeze Müller-Thurgau Willamette Valley, 345 cases, 11.5% alc., $12

Excellent. The second-most-planted grape in

Germany today is this cross of Riesling and Madeleine Royale. This version from a Silverton, Ore., winery is delicious, with aromas of jasmine, grapefruit and mineral, followed by flavors of apples, mangoes and sweet spices.

Abiqua Wine Vineyard 2007 Collier’s Early Muscat Willamette Valley, 196 cases, 12% alc., $15

Outstanding! This variety was created at the

University of California at Davis as a table grape, but it makes marvelous wines, especially in Oregon. This is a wonderful example of the variety, thanks to aromas of oranges and rose water, followed by flavors of peaches and lychee.

Apolloni Vineyards 2007 Pinot Blanc Willamette Valley, 536 cases, 12.4% alc., $13

Excellent. Afredo and Laurine Apolloni run this

up-and-coming winery in the northern Willamette Valley, producing wines from estate grapes as well as from other sources. This beautiful Pinot Blanc opens with aromas of lemons, sugar cane, cinnamon and fresh-cut grass, followed by bright flavors of Asian pears and Mandarin oranges.

Balsamroot Winery 2007 Orange Muscat Yakima Valley, 90 cases, 13.1% alc., $15

Excellent. Orange Muscat is among the most

rare of varieties in Washington. Fortunately, a handful of winemakers work with this variety. The wine provides aromas of jasmine, Asian pears, lychee and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of nectarines, ruby grapefruits and caramel apples. It’s off-dry with 3.7% residual sugar.

mon in British Columbia than anywhere else on the West Coast. It is a cross of Riesling and Silvaner and named after the Ehrenfels castle on the Rhine. This opens with aromas of apples and ginger, followed by flavors of baked apples and pineapples. It’s loaded with acidity and will pair well with shellfish.

Gray Monk Estate Winery 2006 25th Anniversary Pinot Blanc

Darby Winery 2006 Le Deuce White Wine Columbia Valley, 185 cases, 14% alc., $24

Outstanding! Pinot Blanc, a relative of Pinot Noir, rarely gets the respect it deserves. Drink a bit of this and you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the variety. It opens with aromas of lychee, apples, honeydew and sugar cane, followed by flavors of melons and apple crisp with cinnamon.

Outstanding! Owner/winemaker Darby English is coming out of the gates quickly with his Woodinville, Wash., winery. This blend of Roussanne (60%) and Viognier is a gorgeous wine. It opens with aromas of ripe pears and hints of tangerines, followed by luscious flavors of ripe pears and white peaches. It’s beautifully balanced and provides a wonderfully round mouth feel.

Kyra Wines

Three Rivers Winery

2007 Chenin Blanc

2006 White Meritage

Columbia Valley, 360 cases, 12.8% alc., $13

Columbia Valley, 672 cases, 14.5% alc., $19

Excellent. This up-and-coming winery in Moses

Recommended. This is a white Bordeaux style

Lake, Wash., used grapes from two Yakima Valley vineyards (Upland and Pleasant) for this often-underappreciated variety. It opens with aromas of grapefruits, oranges and apples sprinkled with cinnamon, followed by flavors of fresh-cut apples and grapefruits. It’s a well-balanced and classically made wine.

blend of Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Semillon from a top Walla Walla winery. It opens with aromas of Golden Delicious apples, peaches, sweet herbs and a touch of oak, followed by flavors of pears and grapefruit with a nice creaminess on the midpalate from sur lie aging.

Okanagan Valley, 2,900 cases, 12.9% alc., $17 CDN

Rosés

Novelty Hill 2006 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Roussanne

Abacela Winery & Vineyard

Columbia Valley, 485 cases, 13.5% alc., $22

2007 Rosado

Recommended. Roussanne, a grape from the

Umpqua Valley, 197 cases, 13.2% alc., $14

Southern Rhône Valley, still is pretty rare in this part of the world, but we’re seeing more and more of it. This version from a Woodinville, Wash., winery opens with perfumed aromas of oranges and rosewater, followed by flavors of apples, oranges and lemons.

Excellent. This rosé is a blend of Garnacha

Ganton & Larsen Prospect Winery

(Grenache) and Tempranillo (10%). It shows off gorgeous colors, followed by flavors of fresh strawberries, cherries and cola. On the palate, it reveals flavors of Rainier cherries and early season strawberries. It has a gorgeous entry and plenty of bright acidity throughout.

2006 Birch Canoe Pinot Blanc

Apolloni Winery

Okanagan Valley, 2,200 cases, 11.5% alc., $17 CDN

2007 Rosé

Outstanding! Pinot Blanc really shines in cooler

Oregon, 110 cases, 14.2% alc., $15

climates, as is the case in areas of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. This fabulous example opens with aromas of honeysuckle, fresh pears and apples, followed by round, clean flavors of fresh-cut apples, pears and white peaches. It is perfectly balanced and shows off a long, lingering finish.

Outstanding! This superb pink wine is made from Pinot Noir and Viognier by a Forest Grove, Ore., producer. It’s a gorgeous wine with aromas of cherries, strawberries and fresh hay, followed by easy drinking flavors of rhubarb, cherries and rose hips.

San Juan Vineyards

2007 Saignée

Cave B Estate Winery

2007 Siegerrebe

Columbia Valley, 130 cases, 12.9% alc., $16

Puget Sound, 350 cases, 12.2% alc., $17

Excellent. This rosé is made from 100%

Recommended. Siegerrebe is a German variety

Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with aromas of violets, fresh cranberries and white pepper, followed by flavors of black cherries and rhubarb. It’s very juicy on the midpalate yet has all the acidity to pair with Thanksgiving dinner.

that is a cross of Madeleine Angevine and Gewürztraminer. It grows very successfully in the Puget Sound appellation. This wine comes from San Juan Island and opens with aromas of lychee, lemon zest and fresh pineapple, followed by flavors of sweet lemons, grapefruits and oranges. It should pair well with Dungeness crab or scallops.

White blends

Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery

Balsamroot Winery

2007 Classic Ehrenfelser

2007 Edelzwicker

Okanagan Valley, 3,000 cases, 13% alc., $15 CDN

Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 13.5% alc., $18

Recommended. This unusual variety is more com-

Recommended. This off-dry (2.2% residual sugar)

100

wine is a 50-50 blend of Riesling and Gewürztraminer. It shows off aromas of tropical fruit, rosewater and honeysuckle, followed by flavors of lychee, cantaloupe and rosewater. It’s a tasty sipper.

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Elk Cove Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley, 1,570 cases, 13.5% alc., $15

Outstanding! Our 2007 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year continues to turn out some of the finest wines we taste. This superb rosé from 15-year-old vines reveals aromas of peaches, white strawberries and Rainier cherries on the aromas, followed by inviting flavors of strawberries, rhubarb and Bing cherries. Charming acidiW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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recent releases

WINE REVIEWS

Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $10 and under.

Columbia Crest

apricots and a creamy lemon pie.

2005 Two Vines Chardonnay

Columbia Crest

Washington, 295,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Excellent. Few folks in the Northwest make as much white wine as Keith Kenison, and he continues to amaze with quality without regard to price. Enchanting facial powder and toast notes are balanced by tropical fruit.

Columbia Crest 2006 Two Vines Sauvignon Blanc Columbia Valley, 39,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8

Excellent. Sauvignon Blanc is one of the earli-

est-ripening grapes in Washington’s Columbia Valley, with the fruit often picked right around Labor Day. This wine reveals aromas of Indian spices, vanilla and sweet lemons, followed by flavors of pineapples,

ty backs up all the wonderful fruit. This is a versatile food wine and will pair with everything from Asian dishes to pork chops to shellfish.

Trio Vintners 2007 Tre Rosé

2007 Two Vines Vineyard 10 Rosé Washington, 30,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $8

Outstanding! One thing about being the biggest

winery around: You can jump on a trend quickly. That’s what Crest has done with the current interest in dry rosés. This gorgeous wine is made with Syrah and a bit of Viognier. It reveals aromas of cherries, huckleberries, vanilla and cinnamon, followed by flavors of cherries, rhubarb and raspberries. It’s a full, rich wine.

Jones of Washington 2006 Jones Vineyard Chardonnay Wahluke Slope, 393 cases, 14.3% alc., $10

Recommended. This farming family judiciously

strawberries, cinnamon and rose petals, followed by flavors of cranberries and rhubarb. Bracing acidity brightens everything and gets us thinking about pairing it with spicy grilled chicken.

Fruit wine

Columbia Valley, 112 cases, 12.5% alc., $16

Outstanding! The team of Denise Slattery, Steve

Michener and Tim Boushey is crafting some wonderful wines out of Walla Walla. This off-dry rosé is a blend of Sangiovese and Mourvedre and is superb. It opens with aromas of raspberries, cranberries and Rainier cherries, followed by flavors of plums, peaches and something that reminded us of Hawaiian Punch.

Two Mountain Winery 2007 Chalk Art Rosé Yakima Valley, 75 cases, 13% alc., $13

Recommended. This winery near the town of

Zillah, Wash., has crafted a tasty rosé that reveals aromas of rhubarb, rose hips and cranberries, followed by flavors of white strawberries and peaches.

Van Duzer Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley, 300 cases, 12.5% alc., $16

Excellent. Anymore, dry Northwest rosés embody

the beauty of summer and autumn. This pink wine made from estate Pinot Noir seemingly captures the essence of sunshine in the bottle. It opens with aromas of cloves and cherries, followed by flavors of cherries, raspberries and strawberries. It has a crisp mouth feel with just a touch of sweetness on the finish.

Waterbrook Winery 2007 Sangiovese Rosé Columbia Valley, 962 cases, 13.7% alc., $12

Excellent. In years past, this wine came in a cool

bottle that looked like a bowling pin. Now, it’s in a more conventional package. That makes us a bit sad, but one taste of this fruit-laden rosé makes us happy again. It opens with aromas of ripe W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Forbidden Fruit Winery Crushed Innocence White Peach Dessert Wine Similkameen Valley, 150 cases, 12% alc., $22 CDN

Excellent. This winery in Cawston, B.C., is almost

single-handedly making fruit wines hip. It’s not just the names, which are entirely too clever. The wines are outrageously good. This dessert sipper opens with aromas of — believe it or not — peaches, along with French vanilla ice cream. On the palate, it’s like walking through a roadside fruit stand with flavors of peaches, pears and tangerines just picked off the tree.

Forbidden Fruit Winery 2007 Pomme Desiree Similkameen Valley, 180 cases, 13.5% alc., $27 CDN

Outstanding! This dessert wine is made in the style of an ice wine, in which the fruit is frozen before being crushed. The folks at this Cawston, B.C., winery selected six different varieties of apples for this wine. The result is a luscious sipper with aromas of apricots, apples, baking spices and banana chips, followed by flavors of Asian and Bartlett pears and fresh apples.

Dessert wines Apolloni Vineyards

used just 10% new French oak so the fruit shines with hints of juicy peaches, lychee, melons, cloves, white peppercorns and a touch of apple peel bitterness for food pairings.

Tagaris Winery 2007 Eliseo Silva Areta Vineyards La Rosa de Syrah Columbia Valley, 708 cases, 12.5% alc., $10

Excellent. Tagaris Winery is in its 21st year of

operation but has really hit its stride in the past three years with a new facility and restaurant in Richland, Wash. This label honors a longtime employee. It’s a delicious rosé with aroma of peaches, raspberries, strawberries and red currants, followed by flavors of candied strawberries and nectarines.

along with flavors of sweet pineapples and apples.

Cave B Estate Winery 2007 Late Harvest Semillon Columbia Valley, 189 cases, 13.5% alc., $25

Excellent. This richly structured dessert wine was

aged in new American oak and left relatively sweet (8% residual sugar). It offers aromas of honey, glacéed apricots and peaches, followed by lip-smacking flavors of honey, apricots and apples. There’s plenty of acidity to back up all the sweetness.

Dobbes Family Estate 2006 Late Harvest Viognier Rogue Valley, 273 cases, 12.2% alc., $30

Excellent. We’ve long been fans of Joe Dobbes’

dessert wines, especially the late-harvest Viogniers he made at Willamette Valley Vineyards. This is a lovely wine with aromas of sandalwood, lychee and butterscotch, followed by flavors of rosewater and poached peaches. It has a rich, sexy mouth feel and a memorable finish.

Gingko Forest Winery 2007 Late Harvest Gewürztraminer Wahluke Slope, 225 cases, 12.5% alc., $22

Excellent. This new winery near Mattawa, Wash.,

is quickly making a name for itself with a solid release of wines. This dessert wine opens with aromas of glacéed apricots, peaches and sweet corn, followed by flavors of honey, pears, apricots and a hint of candy corn.

2007 Dolce Vino Viognier

Icicle Ridge Winery

Columbia Valley, 255 cases, 12.6% alc., $22

2007 Pinot Noir Ice Wine

Excellent. This style is known as a “cryo ice

Washington, 37 cases, 12% alc., $70

wine” because the harvested grapes are frozen before being pressed. It’s a common practice in regions where temperatures don’t consistently get cold enough. The result here is heavenly, as this wine shows off aromas of honey drizzled over baked apricots, as well as hints of honeysuckle. On the palate is a huge rush of honey

Recommended. This is a rare dessert wine for

Washington, which doesn’t have a lot of Pinot Noir planted, much less left out to freeze on the vine. This opens with aromas of honey, apricots and apple cider, followed by flavors of baked apricots and brown sugar. It’s a delicious wine that will serve as its own dessert. FA L L 2 0 0 8 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T

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W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • FA L L 2 0 0 8

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vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

A vintage look at Walla Walla

ou could feel the sensory anticipation at Reid Hall on the Whitman College campus in Walla Walla, Wash., where 50 folks paid good money to sample vintage Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It was all part of the Walla Walla Wine Alliances Vintage Walla Walla event, destined to be a classic weekend where folks can enjoy a learning experience of vintage wine and food of the Pacific Northwest. A tasting panel represented the cream of the crop of pioneer Walla Walla wineries, included Woodward Canyon, Leonetti, L’Ecole No. 41 and Seven Hills. The two-day event in early June promises to be an annual can’t-miss event. It included a tour of vineyards, a vineyard lunch, the vintage panel discussion and a vintage pour and a pavilion tasting featuring up to 55 Walla Walla wineries. Also on hand for a discussion was Braiden Rex-Johnson, Wine Press Northwest’s own food-and-wine writer, who was signing her latest cookbook. The folks who had paid to attend the vintage panel tasting joined winemakers and renowned grape growers. Marty Clubb, owner/winemaker at L’Ecole, said he believes that two or three years in the bottle can bring out more characteristics in a red wine. Rick Small of Woodward Canyon noted that aging wine gives him a reference point as to what each vintage is doing. Chris Figgins now does most of the winemaking at Leonetti. He said one of the delights regarding a vintage wine is the bouquet, where incredible secondary aromas are developed over time. Casey McClellan of Seven Hills spoke about how a particular vintage can evoke fond memories for a serious wine consumer. I agree that aging Northwest wines, sometimes for even up to 20 years, can make them more enjoyable with delicate bouquet and smooth nuances in the flavors. But not always. I, like others, have let some wines age too long. That is when anticipation and fascination turn into disappointment. I must say that I enjoyed the vintage wines, but I also love young vintages. That’s because most of our red wines are built ready to drink and enjoy when released. The wine comparison for the panel included the following. Woodward Canyon Winery 1994 Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Floral, balanced with plenty of fla-

sweet chocolate, great balance inviting oak and tight blackberries. Leonetti Cellar 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Aromas of oak and leather with tasty flavors of boysenberries, strong tannins and a great finish. Leonetti Cellar 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley:

Aromas of oak and black currants with lingering raspberry flavors, supple tannins and lively acids. L’Ecole No. 41 1997 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley:

Eighty percent merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc created a Merlot that has aged well. Shows leather, spice, licorice, cherry and cedar components but it has started to fade a bit. L’Ecole No. 41 2006 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley:

Light toasty oak with cedar. Flavors of bright cherries. Seven Hills Winery 1995 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: A great chance to compared two vintages from

the same Red Mountain vineyard. Still has substantial tannins for more aging. Characteristics of black olive, truffles and some juicy ripe berry fruit and chocolate. Seven Hills Winery 2005 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain: Not quite as heavy as the 1995 with a touch of

leather and fine leaf tobacco on the aromas and gobs of black raspberry fruit with a smooth lingering finish. Later, when I attend the vintage tasting featuring more Walla Walla wineries, I ran across three beauties that also caught my fancy. Abeja 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Great tannins and toast of the oak with nice fresh berries. Five Star Cellars 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley:

Robust full bodied favors with nice touches of bottle bouquet. This and the Abeja are the third 2001 vintage Walla Walla red I’ve tasted this year, and I’m convinced 2001 will go down as a great vintage. Walla Walla Vintners 1997 Spring Valley Vineyard Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: Beautiful cherry/berry favors dominate this gracefully

aging wine. Pepper Bridge 1999 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: It is concentrated and ripe with juicy black cherry, currant, chocolate and spice flavors. Mostly new French oak barrels, adds a hint of vanilla and toast. Supple and polished with a long finish. Reininger Winery 1999 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley: This won the Grand Award at the Pacific Northwest Enological Society 2001 competition and still is very grand. Fruit forward, hints of tobacco and coconut with bright bing cherry flavors.

vors and aromas left. Made from vines planted in 1971-’72. Woodward Canyon Winery 2004 Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: A whole lot like the 1994 with bitter-

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BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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