Aug. 1, 2011
FRESHPRESS Guadalupe Vineyards in Oregon’s Dundee Hills is one of the region’s most prized sources of Pinot Noir. The vineyard is on the west side of the Dundee Hills, and its soil types actually are more closely related to YamhillCarlton, to which it is adjacent. (Photo by Andy Perdue/Wine Press Northwest)
Fresh Press is a weekly publication of Wine Press Northwest magazine. In each edition, we review recently released wines from Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Feel free to forward to your wine-loving friends and family. For more information on our tasting methods and review process, please go to the last page.
A weekly publication of Wine Press Northwest • Vol. 1, No. 12 • © 2011
FRESHPRESS Aug. 1, 2011
Spotlight: Sinclair Estate Vineyards 109 - B East Main St., Walla Walla, WA, 99362 509-876-4300 • http://www.sinclairestatevineyards.com
WALLA WALLA, Wash. — Amy Alvarez-Wampfler turned her commute from Hermiston, Ore., to Paterson, Wash., into a new life in Walla Walla. And her entry-level job of pouring in the tasting room at Columbia Crest Winery paved her path to become the talented winemaker at Sinclair Estate Vineyards, a young boutique winery in downtown Walla Walla. “It was back in 2003 when I living in Hermiston and someone said Crest was hiring,” she said. “I needed a job, and I just had a feeling. I started out in the tasting room and fell in love with wine.” Inspiration led her to take classes at Walla Walla Community College’s renowned viticulture and enology program while still working at Columbia Crest. By the time she left the Northwest’s largest winery in 2010, she was lead assistant for white winemaker Keith Kenison. It’s understandable that the only white wine she makes for Tim and Kathy Sinclair is Chardonnay. “I really love making Chardonnay, and I was in charge of 10,000 barrels every year,” she said. “And while I love making it, I don’t love drinking it. Working at Crest, we’d taste more than 100 samples twice a week. After a while, you get sick of Chardonnay.” Her demands are drastically different at Sinclair Estate, which produces 1,500 cases. The Sinclair family stores barrels and makes the wine at Dunham Cellars. Amy’s husband — Dan Wampfler — left Ray Einberger team’s at Columbia Crest in 2008 to become winemaker at Dunham Cellars. “We have the same mentors – Ray and Keith – and when it comes down to production, we have the same styles,” Alvarez-Wampfler said. “We make Chardonnay the same way. We make reds the same way. But when we are fermenting our reds and tasting and wondering when we should pull it off the skins, we have different palates.” Alvarez-Wampfler, 31, enjoys working with Syrah and especially Mourvèdre. Both Rhône varieties are the top components to the 2008 Vixen, a product of Sinclair Estate’s second vintage. “It’s just different and really exciting,” she said. “You get tired of the same blends that are predominantly Cab or predominantly Merlot. My ultimate goal is to make a wine that I would drink.” Just as long as it’s not Chardonnay. But guess what is the top seller at Sinclair Estate Vineyards? “I owe everything I have to Columbia Crest,” Alvarez-Wampfler said. “What I learned in one year at Columbia Crest would have taken me five years at a small winery. We worked with 50 different cooperages.
We did yeast trials. You learn everything you need to learn.” Those who pore over tech sheets may notice some common vineyard sources between Sinclair Estate and Dunham, but that is changing. The Sinclairs — Tim is a Microsoft executive and Kathy operates Vine and Roses B&B — own 117 acres of wheat and peas near Mill Creek Road in the neighborhood of Walla Walla Vintners and áMaurice. Next spring, they plan to plant 15 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and construct their own winery and tasting room. In the meantime, nearby Yellow Bird Vineyard will take a larger role in Sinclair Estate wines. And AlvarezWampfler will continue run the winery, the downtown tasting room, crunch the numbers and work the market with her family. In the rear-view mirror are the days spent driving from Hermiston to Paterson to Prosser for work and Walla Walla for class. “I was driving a 1995 Honda Accord, and it didn’t have air conditioning,” she said. “After I got married, Daniel was like, ‘We are retiring that car.’ He called it ‘Night Rider’ because he would only want to be seen in it at night.’ ”
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Spotlight: Sinclair Estate Vineyards Outstanding! Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Pentatonic, Walla Walla Valley, $40. Co-owner Tim Sinclair is a classical guitarist, which explains the rhythmic nature for this name. And another of Amy Alvarez-Wampfler’s blends rocks steady. Cabernet Sauvignon forms the baseline (68%), backed by Merlot (21%), Syrah (5%) and Malbec, and the sources include Double River, French Town, Mill Creek, Pepper Bridge, Les Collines and Seven Hills. There’s no deception in beautiful and expressive nose of blackberry, plums, cola, black cherries, bittersweet chocolate, slate and mincemeat. Then it flows through the palate like the Orinoco with chocolate-covered blueberry and blackberry flavors, supported by supremely balanced tannin and acidity, capped with a cup of mocha. (175 cases, 14.4% alc.) Outstanding! Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Vixen, Columbia Valley, $35. Columbia Crest alum Amy Alvarez-Wampfler enjoys blending trials more than most, and this melange proves she loves her work. Far from a cookie-cutter blend, she led with Rhône
varieties -- Mourvèdre (46%) from Minnick Vineyard, Syrah (19%) from Lewis and Grenache (11%) off Yellow Bird -- and filled in with Cabernet Sauvignon (13%), Merlot (7%) and Malbec. The nose hints at blueberry taffy, boysenberry, Bing cherry, cedar and chocolate-covered orange peel. Crack open a jar of raspberry jam to get a sense for the palate, which includes plum and marionberry. Moist earth and river rock add complexity while pomegranate acidity pushes the tannins far off the field. (538 cases, 14.1% alc.) Recommended. Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2008 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $35. In essence, this fourbarrel lot is a blend of single barrels from Dunham’s estate Double River, Pepper Bridge, Wallula and Lewis vineyards. The dense nose features black cherries and poached plums with hints of ginger snap cookie and pencil shavings. Flavors lean more toward high-toned fruit of boysenberry, pomegranate and president plum, finished with marzipan, tar and cherryskin tannin. (98 cases, 14.5% alc.)
New releases we’ve tasted Cabernet Sauvignon
Pinot Noir
Excellent. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Indian Wells Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, $18. One of Ste. Michelle’s most reliable vineyards for achieving ripeness with Bordeaux varieties is Indian Wells on the Wahluke Slope. Over time, though, the phrase “Indian Wells” has been transformed into a fruit-forward and approachable winemaking style. The blending of Syrah (14%) here helps account for that, while less than 25% of this production came from Indian Wells Vineyard. Results include a dense nose of poached plums, black cherry cola, malted milk balls, coffee, toasted coconut and thyme. Predictably, the drink is creamy and hedonistic with ripe black cherry, blackberry jam, chocolaty tannins and a finish of an Almond Joy. Suggested pairings include stuffed peppers or lamb. (70,000 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Outstanding! Denison Cellars 2009 Inaugural Release Kiff Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton, $44. Tim Wilson launches his own label in McMinnvillle, Ore., with a stunning debut, thanks to fruit he bought from his son’s soccer coach — Joel Kiff. Their collaboration with Pommard and 667 clone clusters, taken Oct. 2, shows complexity amid an opulent oak program. Dark aromas of black cherries, plums, dried blackberry, black licorice, forest floor and sandalwood create inspiration. The drink is deep and rich with plums, black cherry soda and vanilla, cast amid medium tannins and balanced acidity. The fascinating finish carries in blackberry, fig, black NECCO wafer and vanilla bean. (110 cases, 13.9% alc.) Recommended. Best Buy! Rascal 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, $9. McMinnville, Ore., winemaker Linda Lindsay of Stone Wolf Vineyards caters to
Wine ratings All wines reviewed here are tasted blind after being submitted by producers. They are rated Outstanding, Excellent and Recommended by a tasting panel. Outstanding: These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent: Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.
Recommended: Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy: A wine that is $15 or less. Priced are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. For more details about our judging system, see the last page of this document.
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New releases we’ve tasted recession-plagued Pinotfiles in a tasty fashion with this easy-going offering. The nose brings light oak tones that fill in behind cherry fruit leather, strawberry, plums and dried raspberry, followed by pie cherry filling and white strawberry. (24,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Merlot Excellent. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2009 Indian Wells Merlot, Columbia Valley, $18. Then-red winemaker Joshua Maloney debuted the company’s new MOG Monster (material other than grape) during this vintage, and the machine made sorting more efficient than ever. And sticking to true to the Indian Wells style, there’s the addition of Syrah (16%) to the final blend. Spicy, smoky and piquant aromas do include strawberry fruit leather and cola. The real pleasure is on the smooth and complex palate that brings in flavors of black cherry, cassis, Belgian chocolate, tar and minerality. Great acidity balances the tannin and paves the way for dishes such as arroz con pollo or puttanesca. (65,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Recommended. Best Buy! Boomtown 2008 Merlot, Washington, $15. The label reads “Boomtown” but the screwcap on top shows “Dusted Valley Vintners” so fans of food-friendly acidity know what’s in store. They spared little expense in the barrel room, though, as darkly baked chocolate chip cookie and toasted black walnut tones swirl over black cherry and black currant aromas. On the palate, boysenberry and macerated black cherry flavors lead the way. There’s bright fluidity to the structure, which is finished with hints of Fig Newton, slate and tar. (2,800 cases, 14.4% alc.) Excellent. Northstar Winery 2007 Merlot, Columbia Valley, $41. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates created and dedicated this brand to Merlot in 1994, and this vintage ranks with the best in its history. More than a dozen vineyards throughout the Columbia Valley contributed to this white-label blend of Merlot (75%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%) and Petit Verdot, and there’s a deft touch of oak showing in the nose of light toast, boysenberry, marionberry, mint and cedar. Boysenberry and plums ply their way on the vibrant palate where pomegranate flavor brings acidity. Spice notes of Christmastime fruit cake, toasted coconut and smoked paprika filter out in the finish alongside age-worthy tannins. (11,500 cases, 14.7% alc.) Outstanding! Northstar Winery 2007 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley, $50. David “Merf” Merfeld’s muchanticipated “Big Dipper” project reportedly is set for release in the fall of 2012, and hopefully he has used this production -- arguably the best work he’s done with Walla Walla Valley fruit -- as a template. Fruit from Anna Marie and Loess vineyards form the base, while Windrow contributed to the Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) while Petit Verdot (6%) came from outside the
appellation at StoneTree on the Wahluke Slope. Harmonious aromas of black currant, Bing cherry and strawberry include a background of Graham cracker and pink peppercorn. The palate shows elegance with notes of black cherry, boysenberry and chocolate pudding with pleasant acidity and a fascinating feel of sandy tannins. Production of this is a mere fraction compared with the Columbia Valley release, and look for the black label. (400 cases, 14.7% alc.)
Syrah Excellent. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2007 Ethos Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley, $28. When Bob Bertheau goes on his scouting missions for this program, among his stops is a small block of Syrah at Cold Creek Vineyard that he hangs until they achieve a ripeness beyond 30 brix -- well beyond normal picking levels of 24 brix. It’s likely a few of those berries made their way into this. The nose shows a nice blending of barrel and blackberry aromas, joined by fresh-cut cedar, slate and smoky sage. You’ll enjoy the plush entry of boysenberry, blackberry and marionberry flavors that stay juicy until tannins slowly emerge in the sweet finish. Braised beef ribs, grilled salmon and pungent cheeses should match up well. (1,900 cases, 14.8% alc.) Outstanding! Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2007 Boushey Vineyard Syrah, Washington, $36. Idaho winemaker Warren Schutz ranks among the Northwest’s elite when it comes to Syrah, and his fourth vintage working with Dick Boushey’s Yakima Valley grapes might be his best to date. Attractive smokiness still allows for sniffs of blackberry, cherry jam, blueberry, boysenberry, coffee, mint and a sense of gaminess. There’s more charm between the lips with plush and juicy boysenberry and blackberry flavors. A late surge of tannin will make this enjoyable with pheasant — as long as its not the winery’s unofficial mascot “Mo” — or rabbit. (297 cases, 15% alc.) Excellent. Tamarack Cellars 2008 Syrah, Columbia Valley, $25. Ron Coleman does a vineyard-designate Syrah with Ciel du Cheval fruit, but for this program the famed Red Mountain vineyard provides strong support to Bacchus Vineyard (53%) near Pasco, Wash. The blend makes for aromas of blueberry, ripe black currant, pumpkin spice cake and nice minerality. Blueberry returns on the palate with marionberry flavors. They give way to bittersweet chocolate tannins and a trailing finish of black cherries and currant. (392 cases, 14.5% alc.)
Red blends Recommended. Abacela Vineyards & Winery NV Vintner's Blend #11, Southern Oregon, $16. In years past, more than a dozen varieties factored into Earl
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New releases we’ve tasted Jones’ entry-level red. The latest draws in eight varieities from six vineyards, and it zeroes in on Tempranillo (39%) for its power, followed by Syrah (24%). While the nose casts off high-toned red fruit such as strawberry/rhubarb compote and cranberry along with pomegranate and talus slope, the fluid shows darker fruit. Ripe cherries, blackberry and blueberry flavors are surrounded by a structure of frontal tannin, lively acidity and more minerality components. (2,001 cases, 13.5% alc.) Recommended. Coeur d'Alene Cellars 2008 Cloud Nine, Washington, $22. It makes sense for this Idaho winery that’s under the spell of Rhône varieties would create its entry-level blend from Syrah and Mourvèdre from the Horse Heaven Hills. Give it a whiff and there’s no doubt about the Syrah as the nose exudes blueberry, marionberry and bacon. The drink offers zingy blueberry and purple blackberry flavors within a tight framework and energizing acidity that bodes well for smoked pork ribs or a marinated beef shoulder roast. (289 cases, 14.2% alc.) Excellent. Tamarack Cellars 2009 Firehouse Red, Columbia Valley, $18. A quick indicator of a savvy sommelier in the Northwest is to see if their restaurant offers this on the wine list. Annually, this Walla Walla winery creates one of the region’s best values, and this vintage is no exception. The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Syrah (23%), Merlot (12%), Cabernet Franc (11%) and Malbec (6%) also includes spice and texture from Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Petit Verdot and Carménère. Aromas hint at black currant, dark strawberry, blueberry, dusty cherry, pomegranate and cedar. There’s a rich approach to the palate with boysenbery and plums dusted in cocoa powder. Bright acidity comes from flavors of blueberry and pie cherries, while the tannin structure suggests a nicely marbled grilled T-bone. (13,100 cases, 13.9% alc.)
Chardonnay Excellent. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2008 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, $25. Leave it these folks to release a reserve-style Chardonnay that brings the acidity most others of its ilk are lacking. Abundant oak aromas still allow for notes of mashed banana, pineapple, caramel apple, butterscotch and lemon zest. All those tones come around in delicious roundness from 10 months of surlie aging that develops balance with fruit, weight and alcohol. (2,400 cases, 14.5% alc.) Excellent. Laughing Stock Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $26. David and Cynthia Enns are playful types making serious wine. They moved from the business world to winemaking, and many of their wines take names from the stock market, such as “Small Cap,” “Blind Trust” and
“Portfolio.” This Chardonnay is much more straightforward in its name, though equally complex in style. Using grapes from the vaunted Naramata and Black Sage benches — arguably the best vineyard sites in all of Canada — David has crafted a white wine that’s both approachable and reserve in style. It opens with aromas of poached pears sprinkled with cinnamon and hints of spicy oak. On the palate, this pleasing Chardonnay reveals flavors of apple butter on a creamy palate. It’s all backed with expertly balanced acidity through the lingering finish. (740 cases, 13.2% alc.) Excellent. Moon Curser Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, $20. Chris Tolley’s winery provides one of the most remarkable vistas in the Okanagan Valley as it gazes down upon Osoyoos, British Columbia, and Oroville, Wash. What started out as Twisted Tree Winery has been rebranded to Moon Curser Vineyards, and they rely on Martin Plut’s tiny vineyard -- not far from the customs offices -- for this Chardonnay. It comes with aromas of dusty apple and pear, backed by orange peel, fresh-cut grass, asparagus and slate. On the palate, there’s no hint of oak and it’s bone dry to showcase flavors of pineapple and citrus. Enjoy this paired with Hawaiian chicken or meatballs in a pineapple sauce. (60 cases, 14.1% alc.) Excellent. Best Buy! Pend d’Oreille Winery 2009 Chardonnay, Idaho, $15. Stephen Meyer has been making superb wines in the North Idaho town of Sandpoint for more than 15 years, usually using Washington grapes. With the Gem State’s increase in quality and quantity, he is using Idaho grapes more and more. Meyer collaborated with Snake River Valley grape grower Kirby Vickers for this wine, which opens with inviting aromas of apples, fresh linen and nuanced oak. On the palate, this leads off with flavors of Mandarin oranges, bananas and a hint of cream soda. This is a big, fleshy, full-bodied white wine with a touch of butter both on the entry and through the lengthy finish. (397 cases, 14.5% alc.) Recommended. Best Buy! Silver Lake Winery 2009 Chardonnay, Rattlesnake Hills, $12. This longtime Washington winery opened in Woodinville in 1987, making it one of the oldest in this Puget Sound community. When Constellation closed Covey Run’s Zillah location, Silver Lake took over that facility in the Rattlesnake Hills and has focused much of its winemaking attention on using the grapes from its Roza Hills vineyard. This value-priced Chardonnay reveals aromas of vanilla bean, citrus, Asian pear and linen, followed by flavors that include ripe pears, lemon curd and lemon zest. Ample acidity backs up the palate, making this a delicious wine to pair with shellfish or grilled chicken. (3,000 cases, 13% alc.)
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New releases we’ve tasted Riesling
Pinot Gris
Recommended. Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley, $15. One of the oldest sites in Washington continues to yield Riesling that’s built for the masses and true to the style. Granny Smith apple, peach fuzz, lemon custard and a whiff of diesel lead to an easy delivery of tasty tropical fruit flavors. The residual sugar sits at 2.2% and it’s a bit delicate in terms of acidity, finishing with marshmallow, honey and a hint of Emergen-C vitamin drink. Enjoy with Dungeness crab, chicken rubbed with light herbs or as an aperitif. (7,400 cases, 12.5% alc.)
Excellent. Arrowleaf Cellars 2009 Suncrest Vineyard Solstice Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, $20. Estate fruit from Okanagan Centre north of Kelowna, B.C., underwent four months of surlie aging in French and New World oak. It shows up as aromas of toasted pine nuts that run alongside Honeycrisp apple and candy corn. Inside are palate-pleasing flavors of fresh pineapple, Juicy Fruit gum, dried apple, dried pear, starfruit and jicama. Suggested pairings include creamy pasta dishes or salmon served with potato gratin with caramelized onions. (215 cases, 13.5% alc.)
Recommended. Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Sites with high elevation in the Yakima Valley make it possible for this to finish out at less than 1% residual sugar. Lemonhead candy, Tang, apricot, honeysuckle and grassy aromas transition to palate that carries a theme of white peach, Kiwi fruit and jasmine with a lemony finish. While it’s not cloying, this wine traditionally brings in more acidity. Consider this as an alternative to Pinot Gris for pairing with oysters. (45,000 cases, 13% alc.) Recommended. Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Harvest Select Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Some may categorize this as “late harvest” since fermentation was halted at 5%, but this falls under the “medium-sweet” range on the Riesling Taste Profile on the back of the bottle. Ste. Michelle must have achieved success with its debut 2009 vintage of this style because it increased production by 125%. There’s a theme of tropical fruit akin to passionfruit, guava, pineapple and lemon/lime, with peach and some Bit O’Honey in the finish. (140,000 cases, 10.5% alc.) Excellent. Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Riesling, Columbia Valley, $9. Not only is this the world’s largest bottling of Riesling, but it also serves as a model for others to follow. Aromas of ambrosia salad, lychee, lemon meringue and lime transition into flavors such as baked Granny Smith apple pie with a squirt of lime juice and flecks of minerality. The residual sugar of 2.3% will make it friendly to Asian fare, crab legs and mild cheeses. (888,000 cases, 12% alc.) Excellent. Best Buy! Claar Cellars 2010 White Bluffs Riesling, Columbia Valley, $13. Here’s an inviting and refreshing drink for a warm August day from one of the Washington’s top producers of consumer-priced wines. Aromas of passionfruit, lychee, candied apple, spearmint, rosewater and kiwi fruit provide some tickle. Passionfruit and guava lead the flavorful entry, and late acidity gives it a nice bump to the residual sugar (3%) and takes it up a notch. A finish akin to sweet tea adds to the fun. (654 cases, 12% alc.)
Recommended. Best Buy! Rascal 2010 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, $9. The Great Oregon Wine Co., a second label for Stone Wolf Vineyards, constructs a refreshing un-oaked Pinot Gris that nearly anyone can get into. Classic aromas of starfruit also include hints of peach, green apple, cotton candy and jicama. Flavors focus on ripe apricot and nectarine with tantalizing tartness as acidity fills in the midpalate. For food pairings, remember Spokane author Candace Ann Frasher’s slogan -- “Pinot Gris and things from the sea.” (10,000 cases, 13% alc.)
Sauvignon Blanc Excellent. Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills, $15. It seems as if you can’t go wrong with any Sauvignon Blanc made under Bob Bertheau’s direction, and this offers a slightly different style because 30% of the lot was barrel fermented in older French oak. There’s no sign of that in the aromas of dusty Asian pear, Granny Smith apple, gooseberry, lemon, fresh-cut grass and watermelon rind. Pear juice, apple and apricot flavors glide on the entry through the midpalate before a lively finish of kumquat. Suggested fare includes curry-influenced mussels, ginger-flavored chicken or goat cheese. (29,000 cases, 12.5% alc.) Outstanding! Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley, $13. For the second straight vintage, Australian native Wendy Stuckey garners our top rating for this bottling, which checks in at lower alcohol and an 15% increase in production. There’s a dusting of minerality in the nose along with Granny Smith apple, quince, banana and rosewater notes. Expect to taste the same fruit, along with crushed banana that hints at some barrel fermentation (20%). The even release of lime acidity continues to energize the palate. (114,000 cases, 12.5% alc.)
White blend Excellent. Chateau Ste. Michelle 2010 Limited Release Midsummer's White, Columbia Valley, $20. Bob Bertheau and Wendy Stuckey design this for the
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New releases we’ve tasted winery's expanding concert series -- or your patio, and their stylish blend of Viognier (58%), Gewürztraminer (33%), Muscat Canelli (5%) and Riesling is available only at the winery or online. There’s a bit of sweetness (1.2%), but linear acidity provides delicious balance amid the fruity notes of Orange Crush, pineapple upside-down cake, pear, quince and nectarine. (914 cases, 13% alc.)
Rosé Recommended. TerraVina Wines 2010 Silo Vino Rosé, Chehalem Mountains, $20. The Dingers have created an inviting tasting room in downtown Carlton, Ore., where they pour this dry rosé made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Dolcetto and Syrah that includes a touch of Riesling. Concentrated aromas of Hawaiian Fruit Punch, backed by strawberry and Bing cherry transition to flavors of strawberry freezer jam, Rainier cherry, red currants and lemon chiffon pie, backed by mouthwatering and lingering acidity (75 cases, 13.4% alc.)
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Northwest wine regions Multi-state appellations Columbia Valley: This multi-state appellation is 11 million acres in size and takes up a third of Washington. Established in 1984. Columbia Gorge: This multi-state appellation begins around the town of Lyle and heads west to Husum on the Washington side of the Columbia River. It was established in 2004. Walla Walla Valley: Walla Walla Valley: This multi-state appellation is in the southeast corner of Washington and around Milton-Freewater, Ore. Established in 1984. Snake River Valley: This is in southwestern Idaho and southeastern Oregon. It covers 8,263 square miles and was established in 2007.
Washington Yakima Valley: The Northwest’s oldest appellation (established in 1983) stretches past Wapato in the west to Benton City in the east and includes Red Mountain, Rattlesnake Hills and Snipes Mountain. Red Mountain: Washington’s smallest appellation is a ridge in the eastern Yakima Valley. It is 4,040 acres in size. Established in 2001. Horse Heaven Hills: This large appellation — 570,000 acres — is south of the Yakima Valley and stretches to the Oregon border. It was established in 2005. Wahluke Slope: Approved in early 2006, this huge landform north of the Yakima Valley is an 81,000-acre gravel bar created by the Ice Age Floods. It is one of the warmest regions in the entire Pacific Northwest. Established in 2006. Rattlesnake Hills: This appellation is in the western Yakima Valley north of the towns of Zillah, Granger and Outlook.The appellation is 68,500 acres in size with about 1,300 acres of vineyards. It was established in 2006. Puget Sound: This sprawling appellation is in Western Washington. It stretches from the Olympia area to the Canadian border north of Bellingham. It also sweeps through the San Juan Islands and to Port Angeles. Established in 1995. Snipes Mountain: This is one of Washington’s oldest wine-growing regions. At 4,145 acres in size, it is the state’s second-smallest AVA. Grapes have been grown on Snipes Mountain and at the adjacent Harrison Hill (also part of the AVA) since 1914. This AVA is within the Yakima Valley appellation and was approved in 2009. Lake Chelan: This area in north-central Washington is almost entirely within the Columbia Valley. It is a young area, with the oldest vines dating to 1998. About 250 acres are planted here. It was approved in 2009.
Ribbon Ridge: This is the Northwest’s smallest appellation at 3,350 acres. It is best known for its Pinot Noir and is within the Chehalem Mountains AVA. It was established in 2005. Yamhill-Carlton: This is a horseshoe-shaped appellation that surrounds the towns of Yamhill and Carlton. It was established in 2005. The “District” was dropped in 2011. Chehalem Mountains: This is the largest within the Willamette Valley. This 62,100-acre appellation is northeast of the Dundee Hills. It was established in 2006. Dundee Hills: Many of Oregon’s pioneer wineries are in the Dundee Hills within Oregon’s Yamhill County. The appellation is 6,490 acres in size. It was established in 2005. Eola-Amity Hills: This important region stretches from the town of Amity in the north to the capital city of Salem in the southeast. It is 37,900 acres in size. It was established in 2006. McMinnville: The hills south and west of the Yamhill County city of McMinnville are more than 40,000 acres in size. It was established in 2005. Umpqua Valley: This Southern Oregon appellation surrounds the city of Roseburg north of the Rogue Valley. It can produce Pinot Noir as well as warm-climate grapes. It was established in 1984. Rogue Valley: The Northwest’s southern-most appellation surrounds the cities of Medford and Ashland, just north of the California border. It is known for its warm growing conditions. Established in 2001. Applegate Valley: This small valley within the Rogue Valley is known for a multitude of microclimates that can result in wines of distinction and complexity. Established in 2004. Southern Oregon: This AVA encompasses the Umpqua, Rogue and Applegate valleys and Red Hill Douglas County. It was established in 2005. Red Hill Douglas County: This tiny appellation — just 5,500 acres — is within the Umpqua Valley. Fewer than 200 acres of wine grapes, primarily Pinot Noir, are grown here. Established in 2005.
British Columbia
Okanagan Valley: In the province’s interior, this 100mile valley stretches from the border in Osoyoos to Salmon Arm in the north. Most wineries are near Oliver, Penticton and Kelowna. It was established in 1990. Similkameen Valley: This warm valley is west of the southern Okanagan Valley. It was established in 1990. Vancouver Island: This marine-influenced appellation is in the southwest part of the province. Established in 1990. Fraser Valley: This farming area is in the Lower Mainland, south of Vancouver. Established in 1990. Oregon Gulf Islands: This appellation includes approximately Willamette Valley: Oregon’s largest appellation stretches 100 islands spread out between Vancouver Island and the roughly from Portland to Eugene. Established in 1984. southern mainland. Established in 2005.
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FRESHPRESS Aug. 1, 2011
About us Wine Press Northwest is a quarterly consumer magazine that focuses on the wine regions of Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho. Annual subscriptions are $20. Click to subscribe. Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman edegerman@winepressnw.com Advertising inquiries: Parker Hodge phodge@tricityherald.com © 2011
Tasting methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “blind,” meaning the tasting panelists do not know the producer. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in temperature-controlled conditions, allowing them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/ marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered
unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated. To ensure we maintain an international perspective, our tasting panelists judge thousands of wines annually at various competitions, including: Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits Competition, Riverside International Wine Competition, Dallas Morning News Wine Competition, Indy International Wine Competition, Virginia Governor’s Cup, Sonoma County Harvest Fair, Grand Harvest Awards, San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, Long Beach Grand Cru, Washington State Wine Competition, Seattle Wine Awards, Northwest Wine Summit, British Columbia Wine Awards, New York Wine and Grape Foundation Competition, Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Capital Food & Wine Fest and Idaho Wine Competition.
A weekly publication of Wine Press Northwest • Vol. 1, No. 12 • © 2011