Wine Press Northwest Summer 2011 issue by Wine Press Northwest

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WINE PRESS

Vol. 14, No. 2

N O R T H W E S T

FEATURES

30 The Ultimate Guide Come with us on a whirlwind tour of Northwest Wine Country.

58 Sparkling Wine Judging

Summer 2011 DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose A fresh take on our wine reviews

8 A Distant Perspective Judging a wine by its roots

10 Market Grapevine Pike Place Market wine tour

Northwest sparkling wines bubble over with quality.

12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Don’t complicate storing wine

14 Urban Sips

COVER STORY On the cover: Grapes are just the beginning of things to discover in Northwest Wine Country. Story begins on page 30. This page: A pier is one of the sights to be seen coming into Victoria, B.C., by ferry. Photos by Jackie Johnston

Listen to your wine

16 Blogger wwww: the worldwide wine web

18 Poet Laureate Ode to Grape

20 23 24 76

10 Things to Do Northwest Wine Events Northwest Wine News Vintage Musings Big legacy for Woodward’s Small

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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1405 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1404 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Editor at-large: Jon Bauer Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Winnie Alberg, Kristine Bono, Whitney Maldonado, Justin Michaud, Kate Michaud, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Dave Seaver, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue. Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Facilitator: Daniel Skorski Page designer: Jackie Johnston Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Poet laureate: Jordan Chaney Contributing photographers: Jackie Johnston, Nityia Przewlocki Contributing writers: Vincent Fritzsche, Hank Sauer Ad sales: Parker Hodge, 509-585-7257 E-mail: phodge@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: Hildanna Gerlach, 800-538-5619 e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Fresh Press: Find fresh reviews of recently released Northwest week. The free weekly PDF can be downloaded at winepressnw.com/freshpress Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2011 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

A fresh take on our wine reviews

hose of you who read this magazine from back to front likely have already noticed a fairly big change to Wine Press Northwest in this issue: no Recent Releases. Those of you who started from the front probably just thought the magazine was a little lighter. This is because we are going with a new strategy regarding our wine reviews. One of the difficulties of publishing quarterly is the freshness of content. For most of our stories, this isn’t an issue because we are first and foremost a lifestyle magazine that provides a glimpse into Northwest wine country. But reviews of new wines are a little different. Each year, we taste nearly 3,000 Northwest wines, the majority of which are for our Recent Releases section (and the rest are for our peer-group and Platinum judgings). Because of the number of samples we receive, a review could run as many as four months after a wine arrives at our offices. For example, if a wine gets here in May, it probably won't get tasted and reviewed in time for the Summer issue. This means it would show up in Fall issue, which comes out in September. I’ve always thought this was unacceptable and a disservice, both for wine lovers and winemakers. We were on the verge of moving to six issues per year, but we held off — a fortunate decision when economic conditions slowed advertising in print media worldwide. So we have come up with another solution, one that I think benefits everybody. It’s called Fresh Press. In mid-May, we began producing a weekly publication that provides fresh reviews of recently released Northwest wines. Longtime columnist Braiden Rex-Johnson came up with the title, which she describes as a combination of our magazine name and this new publication’s goal, inspired by the process of making olive oil. Fresh Press is published every Monday and is a free, easyto-download PDF on our website. It is formatted to be easy to read in digital format or to quickly downloaded. You’ll be able to find links to Fresh Press on our website (winepressnw.com/freshpress), as well as in our Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week email newsletter and through Facebook and Twitter. You can also sign up to receive it each week via email. Fresh Press gives us the best of many worlds. In theory, we could publish a wine review as quickly as 10 days after a wine is received — though in most cases, it will be more like three weeks because we like to let wines rest for several days after they are shipped here. The shorter timeline on reviews is great for consumers who want the latest information on new wines — and for winemakers who are trying to get the word out about their new products. And having the 6

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reviews online also introduces the wines to a broader audience. The new publication also provides opportunities for lowcost advertising to companies that want to reach our wineloving audience. Magazine advertising is not cheap, so Fresh Press gives advertisers another option. Of course, printing fewer pages saves us a few dollars, though we will continue to expand Wine Press Northwest with more features as advertising allows. Fresh Press also gives us a way to highlight Northwest wineries. Leading off each issue, we put a winery in the spotlight with a short feature and several reviews. At times, we will use this space to promote a region or specific variety. It will all depend on what we’ve been tasting recently. All of the wines we review will continue to be added to our freely accessible and fully searchable online database, which currently houses nearly 13,000 wine reviews dating back to our first issue in April 1998. This certainly does not put an end to wine reviews in Wine Press Northwest magazine. We’ll continue to publish our quarterly peer-group judgings (in this issue, we have the results of our comprehensive tasting of Northwest sparkling wines). We also have a new feature in mind that will put wine reviews in an entertaining format. We’ll roll that out in the Fall issue. You might also notice that this edition of Wine Press Northwest doesn’t include our regular Match Makers feature, which highlights Northwest chefs who use fresh, local ingredients and support nearby wineries. This was simply a matter of making more room for our “Ultimate Guide to Northwest Wine County,” which needed a few more pages to do the feature justice. Rest assured Match Makers will return in the Fall edition of Wine Press Northwest. *** Speaking of new features, we have added a columnist with this issue. Jordan Chaney is a spoken-word poet who lives in the heart of Washington wine country. I heard him perform “Ode to Grape” last year at a literary festival and quickly became a fan. His style of poetry finds its roots in hip-hop, and he is able to provide superb visuals with his words. Chaney, who performs at wineries throughout the region, including Col Solare and Bookwalter, will provide us with an original poem for each issue, and he’ll also perform it online, since the power of his words is greatest when he speaks them. I hope you appreciate this new feature as much as we enjoy bringing it to you.

ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Judging a wine by its roots

udges at wine competitions see wines differently from average consumers, and in recent years it is getting even more apparent. If you were to sit down to evaluate a set of, say, 75 Syrahs, at some point you would notice that the wines were getting more and more tannic, not to mention hard to evaluate. Actually, the wines aren’t getting harder. It’s just that as we taste and taste without sufficient breaks and palate cleansing, our ability to regenerate the palate-protector saliva means we are getting progressively more sensitive to tannins and acids (and alcohol!). Thus the wines seem to be harder than they probably really are. As a result, most judges seek any justification not to have to put a wine in their mouths. So they become hyper-critical of even trace aromatic flaws. I have experienced cases where a fellow judge actually made up a flaw so he or she wouldn’t have to taste the liquid. Now things are getting more complicated. It has to do with the growing effect in the fine-wine field of regions like New York, Virginia, Ohio and Michigan. And not for just the grapes with which we have become accustomed, like Viognier from Virginia and Riesling from the Finger Lakes. Virginia Cabernet Franc and New York Seyval are just as deserving of attention in a fine-wine world as $100 Napa Cabs. Are they the same or even similar? Not even close. However, the fact that they are “odd” or “strange” — in a mainstream context — should not take away from the fact that they are valid wines. Indeed, in some ways they are classic wines since they represent their regions so well. Some supposedly “better” wines do not reflect their region at all. Here we enter a philosophical realm. Who deemed Napa Cab to be the world’s paradigm for that grape? Or Bordeaux, for that matter? Who ruled that 15 percent alcohol, oak flavors, a higher-than-in-the-past pH and a virtual sweetness is the only type of Cab that can be ascertained to be great? And I’m not the only one asking these questions. So are people who seriously look at wine as more a reflection of their place than of their variety. In this more democratic mode that has recently evolved, wine evaluation has taken an interesting spin. A number of competition directors are now questioning whether it wouldn’t be best to evaluate all wines by telling the judges the regions from which each wine emanates. At the 2010 Riverside International Wine Competition, we evaluated Petite Sirahs by region. The results came out better than expected, though it took longer to do this than other nonregional panels. And we tried this again this year with two panels judging some 200 wines of various types. In many cases, the place from which a wine came was of 8

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no importance to the judges, some of whom said they never even looked at that factor. Others noted that the (assumed) regional characteristics of a few wines made them so distinctive that the judges, knowing the region, found it to be crucial to understanding the wine. Two cases in point: One panel awarded a gold medal to a Viognier after learning it was from Texas. The reason: The wine was distinctive. The second case is far more complicated, but it resulted in a Pinot Noir earning a silver medal once the judges (who initially were predisposed to giving it nothing!) learned that the wine was from New Jersey. And now we reach another conundrum: What if a grape variety is planted in the absolutely wrong terroir to make a classic wine? Does it still deserve consideration since it is terroir-based? Just because a wine grape is from an odd region of the world doesn’t mean the entire template for the variety should change. Look at this a bit like Silly Putty. You can stretch and pull it into various shapes and it’s still in one piece. But at some point the pulling in opposite directions fails and the putty “breaks” in the middle. At some point, even the most generous and flexible tasters will be put off by the strangeness of what a variety does in some regions. It may be unfair to suggest such a thing, but I have never tasted a classic or even interesting Pinot Noir from fruit grown in the central San Joaquin Valley. Or a Riesling from southern Italy. Whose fault is this? Even the most liberal interpretation of the variety’s “outside limits” would not conclude such a wine could ever warrant an accolade as high as a bronze medal. Also, I have tasted a number of wines that were manipulated to deliver something more mainstream (such as a Chardonnay that went through complete malolactic fermentation, lees contact and stirring, and new French oak). The result is a chicken with three legs, which only satisfies people who want three drumsticks. So should we judge all wines by a regional standard? If we do so for Cabernet, shouldn’t we also do so for other varieties? But since we have a record of Napa Cabs, and almost none for Santa Rita Hills Riesling, how would such a judging work? Badly, I would think. Until more judges get a definitive handle on how basic varieties grow around the world, we are left holding a bag filled with untested hypotheses. But at least the question has been raised, and we can begin investigating answers. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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northwest edge BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON

Pike Place Market wine tour

eattle’s Pike Place Market is the perfect place to meet your local producer, buy everything from a bouquet to a beefsteak and watch silvery salmon glide through the air with the greatest of ease. But who knew it’s also a great place to taste wine? Close to a dozen tasting venues in and around the Market are just waiting for the estimated 10 million locals and tourists who visit annually to sip, swirl and savor. The venerable Pike & Western Wine Shop, open since 1975, is in the north end of the Market at the corner of Virginia Street and Pike Place. “We’ve been doing some form of tasting for as long as it has been legal in Washington,” said proprietor/owner Michael Teer. “We certainly aren’t as regular (in offering tastings) as places like The Tasting Room. But I think, overall, we can stake the claim of being the ‘granddaddy’ of wine in the Market.” Pike & Western samples Northwest and global wines from 3 to 6 p.m. every Friday, free of charge. For more info, go to pikeandwestern.com. Not far away in an atmospheric space along Post Alley, The Tasting Room: Wines of Washington (TTR) was our state’s first wine cooperative dedicated entirely to Washington wines when it opened in 2004. TTR features wines from seven boutique, winemaker-owned producers, including Harlequin, Camaraderie Cellars and Wilridge Winery. Open every day (noon to 8 p.m. on weekdays; later hours on weekends), TTR serves wine pours ranging from one ounce to full bottles, wine flights and finger foods for nibbling. Go to winesofwashington.com. From 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, La Buona Tavola, a small, Italian-inspired shop on the main drag along Pike Place, offers up three wine samples for $5. Owner and “Trufflequeen” Rei Hanscomb sources from small-production, family-owned wineries in Washington, Italy and Spain. Go to trufflecafe.com. On First Avenue from 2 to 4 p.m. every Saturday, tastings at DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine feature “everything across the board, from a region to a producer, or just something we feel like pouring,” said manager/buyer Stephen Guy Spencer. Go to delaurenti.com A short walk or easy elevator ride down from the Market, two dedicated tasting rooms have sprung up along Western Avenue within the past six months. In late January, winemaker John Patterson, who has produced wine the past 12 years in Woodinville, Wash., and also operates a tasting room there, opened Patterson Cellars. The sleek, 1,800-square-foot facility boasts a contemporary, modern-industrial vibe. Every day in the upstairs tasting bar fronting Western Avenue, you can taste two wines for free or five for $3. An art-filled event space with outside seating faces the Pike Street Hill Climb. Go to pattersoncellars.com Just across the street on Western Avenue, you’ll find Pike 10

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Patterson Cellars in Woodinville, Wash., has opened a second location on Western Avenue near the Pike Place Market. (Photo © www.nityiadesign.com)

Place Market Cellar Winery, open since May. Randy Finley, owner/winemaker at Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery near Bellingham since 1989, partnered with longtime Market Cellars Winery owner John Farias, who will continue to make wine and sell wine- and beer-making supplies next door. Open on weekends, with samples of five wines offered for $5, this thoughtfully remodeled space serves as an inviting Seattle presence for Finley and his wide array of wines. Go to mountbakervineyards.com Other wine-centric venues in the Market neighborhood include TASTE Restaurant in the Seattle Art Museum. TASTE offers only Northwest wines on its list — close to 70 — available in everything from a taste to a bottle. Go to tastesam.com ART Restaurant and Lounge in the Four Seasons Hotel showcases a good number of Washington and Oregon wines available in three-ounce tastes, full glasses and by the bottle. Go to artrestaurantseattle.com Also at the Four Seasons Hotel, the stylish Fonté Café & Wine Bar offers creative Northwest wine flights, wines by the glass or bottle and twice-monthly wine tastings. Check out fontecoffee.com/cafe_winebar.html Finally, the eponymous 106 Pine serves a wide selection of Northwest wines by the taste, glass, wine flight or bottle. It’s also the departure point for the Urban Wine Tour. Go to 106pine.com All of which makes the Pike Place Market the perfect place for wine lovers. Braiden Rex-Johnson is a Seattle-based cookbook author, food-and-wine columnist and blogger. Visit her online at www.WithBraiden.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Don’t complicate preserving wine What’s the best way to preserve wine once you’ve opened a bottle?

The flippant side of me wants to give you the easy answer: Don’t hoard it. Drink it. Now. Obviously, that’s not always possible or desirable. So, here’s what I’ve learned in three-plus decades of rather serious wine tasting and drinking. I’ve tried at least a half-dozen “solutions” to this problem. If the quote marks reveal a small amount of skepticism, it’s because none of the many I’ve encountered has been perfect. Here’s what I’ve tried: 1. Pumping the air out of the bottle through a stopper with a one-way valve that retains the vacuum the pump creates. 2. Replacing the air inside the bottle with nitrogen or some other inert gas, then recorking. 3. Putting the wine into a half-bottle and recorking. 4. Filling the wine bottle with marbles to raise the wine up to the full level, then recorking it. 5. Refrigerating the recorked partial bottle. 6. And simplest of all, recorking and doing nothing more. Several years back, the Wine Press Northwest tasting panel tested all of these solutions, and as Hank Sauer, our longtime tasting facilitator reminded me, it was a controlled, blind test. And we found the simplest solutions — No. 5 for white wines and No. 6 for reds — worked about as well as anything. Why? Because opened wine, like stored wine, is best preserved by cool temperatures, with 55 degrees ideal, and by keeping it away from strong light, especially fluorescents. And those simple solutions are much cheaper, though they lack the snobby gadget appeal offered by solution Nos. 1 and 2. But, if you love gadgets and the fussiness of pump and treat, what the heck. Buy them. Write, email or call me about how wonderful they are. I might reconsider. As for Nos. 3 and 4, I soon got tired of chasing dropped marbles, rinsing them and drying them. And the half-bottles, in my opinion, simply add to the chore of doing dishes. Aging Northwest wines: A winemaker update

In our spring 2000 issue, we reported on a vertical tasting of 19 years of Woodward Canyon Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignons from 1981, the winery’s first Cab, through 1999. This spring, we took a brief trip down memory lane with winery owner Rick Small by retasting three of those wines, the 1987, 1994 and 1999. All I can say is wow! Yes, the 24-year-old 1987 was showing its age, with its fruit tending toward ripe, slightly dried plums, nice clove spice and only an edge of its originally hefty tannins. But it was from a warm year, with very ripe fruit and labeled 13.4 percent alcohol. His original tasting notes from the wine’s May 1990, release date said it showed “soft, lush berry fruit ... clove and spice of new (oak) barrels ..., but plenty of tannin and structure to age well.” 12

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The Wine Press tasters of 2011 all agreed they still would love to have some left in their cellars. It was no longer young, without a doubt. But it remains elegant, lush and spicy, with still-saucy tannins. The 1994, which seemed a little conflicted back in 2000, has overcome its late adolescent shyness in its aromas and to me showed much like a somewhat younger version of 1987. Once again, 1994 was a warm year but displayed Woodward Canyon’s hallmark — a long finish despite the older flavors of its raspberry and blackberry fruit. As for the 1999, it was still proudly showing why it was “the vintage of the decade,” as we called it back in 2000, a phrase Small repeated at this latest tasting. When the 1999 was released in 2002, he touted its ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors and its “concentration, balance and proportion.” In 2011, the flavors of its youth remain, plus some dark cherries and a slight edge of blueberry on my palate. Add a lovely hit of spice to boot. The concentration, balance and proportion remain in lockstep. Small’s forecast — “with proper storage, should last 15 years” — was conservative. This one seems likely to go a good 10 years beyond that. Alas, in my cellar it’s no more. Small’s Old Vine Cabs have built a reputation for long life, and they make a strong case for not getting in a hurry to drink up the quality reds in your cellar, especially those from cooler, lower-alcohol years when a long, warm fall lets the grapes linger on the vine to a slow, full maturity. As an added note, with Kevin Mott as winemaker, Woodward Canyon hasn’t lost a step. From the bottom price range of its red wine lineup — $20 Nelms Road Merlot — up through the 2008 Old Vines Cab with its 5 percent shot of Petit Verdot, this latest tasting session was memorable. Wine words: Tastevin

Well, it’s back to France, this time for a stop in Burgundy. Many wine lovers will recognize this as the nifty little silver cup on a chain that seems de rigueur for the well-dressed sommelier. If that’s all Greek to you, it’s a tasting cup that allows one to easily check clarity, aroma and, with a tiny sip, flavors of a wine. Frankly, it’s mostly become a fashion accessory since the invention of electric lights. It reputedly originated in the dim wine cellars of Burgundy where the only light was a candle. The shallow bright silver cup caught candlelight on its facets and convex bottom, allowing a winemaker to judge a wine’s clarity and color.

KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman since 1968 and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 33 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN

Listen to your wine

hine is never a good sound, but wine is the contrary. Simon and Garf gave us the sound of silence, and at Barking Frog a few nights ago — it seemed oddly fitting to investigate the sound of frogs barking. Apparently, frogs bark when they are ecstatically happy. Chef claimed he’d like all his customers to croak after their meal. That can’t be good for repeat business — just sayin’. So while the silence is sounding and the frogs are barking, it occurred to me, we leave out one very significant sense when we taste wine. Well, no more! Pour a glass and pump up the volume: We need to hear what’s not being said! Babbling and cackling, Novelty Hill’s 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon springs with loud-laughter and shrills of black cherry swirl. Intense sobs of blaring blueberry beat the drum with an oom-pah-pah brightness. A rasp of voluptuousness pants hard as red currant and anise wriggle and cool. With a plunking finish, Novelty Hill extends beyond the finish line — and keeps going and going and going … DiStefano’s 2006 Meritage is one of my truest loves. It bangs like a thunderous gong, reverberating into a rhythmic peppery purr. Fresh with juicy berry and clover, this wine trumpets creamy carmello, vivacious and tight-lipped, with a textured roar of chewy, munchy tannins. A sigh of spice leads us down a path that we’ve been hoping to go for a very long time, and it doesn’t end there. Oh no … Speaking of lips, R.Stuart & Co. 2008 Pinot Noir Autograph clip clops in a rather inappropriately friendly sort of way. It starts with a suggestive remark, flirting and fumbling into a trickling whisper. Lulling and twinkling and humming in vibration. Suddenly, fabric rips, buttons clatter and a thrust of intrigue pounds like a rainstorm slamming cobblestones, hard and wet as if each one was very, very bad; and by bad I mean excruciatingly good. Very exc-I-ting. The wine, I mean. Switching to a lighter strum, DeLille Cellars 2009 Doyenne Rosé crackles like searing meat. Grenache and Mouvedre snap with a Cinsault sizzle and hissing undertones of distant church bells. A cannon ball sprays a splash of dry spice mouth feel with a slight rose nose, balanced and buzzing. The wine tings and twangs with the utmost sophistication and elegance. Elegance shows up in a variety of ways from connubial to untamed — enter Efeste. The 2010 Feral Sauvignon Blanc is a lot of things. Docile is not one of them. This wine is the susurration of smooth sneeriness. It thumps with rich, round apricot pit hurled against the hollowness of one’s head. White grapefruit and green melon dissipate like the spattering of heavy water breaking through a fisherman’s net just pulled from the sea. A sudden burst of clackety dice crash at each other, crash into you, tied up and twisted the way I’d like to be: mumbling, growling, yodeling. C’MON! Then sirens squeal! Under seige with Guardian 2010 Angel Sauvignon Blanc, this wine thrums undercover with cirtrusy, lemony tartness waffled in dry white peach. Papery light, it 14

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rustles like the tall, swishy sway of parched wheat. Cucumber and fresh lime echo with a damp, muffled clack of shoes running in a warehouse. The chase ensues, running so hard to find it, running so fast! Collective gasp! Cloaking its moves in the shadows, “the next thing I remember” … well, it’s just never a good way to start a story. Everyone knows that. The nose on the Boedecker Cellar 2007 Athena Pinot Noir eats you up like the red of a zippy, zing. Raspberry tang cracks the earth like a shovel’s first dig — crunches as it slips down a smooth, mossy slope. Polished mushroom snaps like a tree branch, splashing like the cavernous drip of a creaking ice cave. A silhouetted cacophony of sweet strawberry, earth and power lisp to a burring finish. Brian Carter Cellars’ 2007 Byzance, a Rhône-style blend, is jammy and juicy like the flavors added back into the meat when cooking something wonderful. The lick of lips intensifies with jarring dark chocolate fendering and bendering in a seven-car pile up. Black cherry, dark plum and forest floor tap softly — ballet shoes on vinyl floor — hollow and deliberate. The four tenors of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Counoise gabble melodiously with Cinsault bringing up the rear — sultry and sloshing. POW! Woodward Canyon’s 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon blares with the classic charm of a vintage Volkswagen horn that honks the Samba. Shake, shake, shake — all those movable parts! Dark complexity of ripe berry clinks like a scritchy radiator with the whining ping of spice and low clunk currant. The wine releases into a smooth finish of bike tire on wet, warm pavement. Drawn out with a crinkle of chatter, its fluted finish fades to black. Honk if you love maceration! Bergevin Lane’s 2009 Linen red blend caws in crow darkness and breathes heavily with drawn-out, smoky exhalations. Scratching like chalk on concrete, Linen shuffles under a blanket of dark fruit and spin-out rubber. Fast footsteps down marble steps pound like bouncing tennis balls. Gritty and snorting, this wine unchains its glory and warbles with the finish of an aimless push-up bra. Respectfully worth the price of admission. Eliseo Silva’s 2007 Syrah, Columbia Valley, thunders a blast of fruity racket plunging into a holly-go-lightly tongue groove with cherry-come-lately. Lean raspberry flip flops into a loll of rutty wool and tangled wooden bat — cracking a ball to left field, unfortunately foul, and then striking three. Young, short and Amy Winehouse easy. Glug! Glug!! Glug!!! A frantic knock at the door, a shrilling squeak of dirty windshield wipers — what you hear isn’t always what you get, nor what you want … until it is. Cheers! With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is the author of the latest edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest and the Northwest Wine Journal. She writes An Urban Sip Wine Blog at anurbansip.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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bloggers’ blend BY VINCENT FRITZSCHE

wwww: the worldwide wine web Editor’s note: In each issue, this column rotates among the top wine bloggers in the Pacific Northwest.

ast fall, before the grape harvest began here in the Willamette Valley, I gathered with a few other winemakers to taste through our wines from the prior year. We tasted blind, writing our notes in silence. Then we went around the table and shared our opinions on the wines. Only then did we reveal the labels and, naturally, begin questioning our assessments. Did we even recognize our own wines? Sometimes no, which I always think is interesting. Blind tasting is valuable, but it’s also something of a parlor trick, even for winemakers. The gathering was a nice opportunity to trade knowledge with colleagues, some of whom are friends, all of whom share a passion for wine. And that was the point. To put a part of ourselves — our wines — out there and learn from the process. To get honest feedback. To talk about how we made the wines and what we thought we might do differently with the impending harvest. And that got me thinking. Isn’t the wine Internet the same? We blog, tweet and Facebook what we do and what we are learning and look to hear back from others. But instead of a small group, we hear from the world. It’s incredibly powerful and, frankly, it’s the reason I make wine at all. Back in the early 1990s, something just clicked. I began thinking about the wines I tasted and, most importantly, I began reading about wine. I couldn’t get enough. But if you’d asked me then if I would ever make my own wine, I would have laughed. How could I? The whole process was mysterious. Besides, I didn’t have any money. What’s the old joke about making a million dollars in the wine industry? Start with $3 million. The barriers seemed insurmountable. A few years later, I found the wine Internet. Back then, before blogs, Facebook and Twitter, there were discussion groups where wine lovers came to talk about wine. The people were as varied as the wines they discussed. There were neophytes like me, more eager than knowledgeable. There were more established collectors, some with significant wine cellars, who seemed happy to share their passion. And there were all sorts of wine industry types. Producers, retailers, importers, distributors and journalists from all over the world. The wine world was suddenly flat. I was living in San Francisco then, and it wasn’t long before I was helping some of my new online friends at harvest. One was a home winemaker who had just gone pro. He encouraged me to make serious wine at home as he had, to do it again and again and, perhaps, go pro as well. I found I enjoyed writing about my harvest experiences online. Suddenly, thanks to the Internet, the wine world had opened itself to me. Soon my family moved to Portland and I continued my wine apprenticeship. A friend suggested I start blogging and, 16

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in early 2005 I began writing élevage, ”the education of wine.” I wrote about my experiences working harvests at local wineries, my own garage winemaking and tales of the wine I tried and places I visited. I enjoyed sharing my wine experience, and I found that reader interaction inspired me to learn more. Occasionally, a wine shop would let me know they appreciated my kind words or producers mentioned they followed my writing. A few publications even wrote about the blog as a place to find thoughtful wine writing. Before the wine Internet, who could imagine an amateur like me could make connections like this? Meanwhile, my own winemaking progressed. I got the idea of holding tastings of my wine in my garage and blogged the events to encourage readers to show up and taste. After three successful events, I decided to go pro like my mentor had instructed. I’m now looking forward to my third harvest as a commercial winemaker, blogging about it for all to see. Connecting with the world through writing is an essential part of my process. Not everyone is so excited about the wine Internet. At that preharvest tasting, a winemaker friend complained, isn’t it enough to make great wine? He said he doesn’t have time for Twitter, Facebook, blogging or wine discussion groups. He doesn’t want to put himself out there like that. I understand that. We’re incredibly busy as wine producers. My friend doesn’t have any issues selling all his wine, so he doesn’t need social media to get himself out there, at this point anyway. But my point to him was, if you don’t tell your story to people, they’re just going to make it up. How many times do we know little or nothing about people or products we love and yet, somewhere in our minds, we have strong ideas about who they are and what they mean to us? We’re sometimes crushed when reality doesn’t match up to our fantasies. Social media to me is about getting ahead of those narratives, about telling our own stories before other people fill in the blanks. It’s about putting ourselves out there. To connect with people. To share our experiences and perhaps see some doors open up if we’re honest in the process. Sure, people will call it good marketing. But I’m just sharing what I’m up to, what gets me going each day. I don’t have my own facility, so the wine Internet is my way to let people in to what I’m doing. People remember that experience, even if it’s virtual. Plus, it’s fun. Like tasting wines with your friends. Vincent Fritzsche writes the blog élevage, makes wine as Vincent Wine Co. and is a partner in Guilde Winemakers. He lives in Portland. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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18 Poet Laureate

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poet laureate BY JORDAN CHANEY

Ode to Grape Editor’s note: Beginning with this issue, we present the wine-inspired poetry of Jordan Chaney, the poet laureate of the Northwest wine industry. I have a crush on you you beautiful bulbous berry of the gods you galaxy of dark blue stars you plump and precious bottle of Pinot Noir I simply adore you you sometimes gorgeous green thing drooping a thousand times from paintings always nude and next to tulips the Pinot Gris on your two lips puts the kiss in kismet it’s serendipitous the way we have come together mighty migrant workers are up to their shins in mud are sweating in the sun are plucking darkened rubies all for my tongue getting paid in pesos to slave away for my fair love you are endless without edges a purple pearled necklace with a cluster of cleavage dangling beneath it a scarlet goddess robed in a red dress sagging on the vine marauding my fantasies every midnight when the sky light is Merlot-like I love the way you bat your lashes at me while layered in lingerie then splash into my cup like purple rain and climax when you pass my tongue and come into long stemmed glasses 18

you look like a pin-up doll showing off your legs & back making my heart patter fast and then faster until my pulse comes completely unfastened alas you are crimson a succubus a full-bodied Jezebel who has had everybody’s filthy hands on you from train hopping hobos to snobs with mountains of dollar bills you’ve slept in crates in dirt fields next to windmills in alleys next to burning barrels and even in sheets woven from the finest of silks but I don’t care about your cheap past and how you were stepped on daily how your delicate skin was been beaten and smashed or when you lived in boxes with both eyes blue & black to me you are still a rose that grew from history’s trash

I love you because when I was sour when my heart was withering away like a raisin in the sun when every part of me shattered asunder and I was picking up the pieces all over the streets you stood by in the countryside waiting for me to mature and then cherry-blossomed into my life singing a song of dreams of tomorrows and swept all of my sorrows away I want you to know that sitting on the couch with you is enough for me we can watch the sun melt like gold into the hills we can imagine that the sun is sinking into the earth impregnating her with our hopes and with our dreams we can watch as she gives birth as the harvest ripens and comes forth and brings our visions full circle back into being and so when we toast we’ll know that our souls are swallowing their own dreams

my love is unconditional you are both the Mother Teresa and Mary Magdalene of all the fruits a noble truth serum with heavenly roots and Sauvignon rivers flowing bright though your veins turning tongues into pure silver a miracle you’re like magic a mystic once summoned you from a glass of water to make men meek you put the vine in divine and now my mind is an aimless cork afloat a placid sea sacred grape to saintly mate hallowed be thy taste Ms. Holy water if you please

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Jordan Chaney is a spoken-word poet who lives in the heart of Washington wine country. His first book is Double-Barreled Bible, and he recently released Mighty Peasant on MP3 and CD. Listen to him perform Ode to Grape on youtube.com/winepressnw.

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activities

great things to do

in Northwest wine country

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

he more vintages I put behind me, the more importance I place on quality food and where it comes from. Perhaps that notion is the byproduct of living in wine country and drinking the fruit of my neighbors’ labor. At the same time, I need to be better about trying to make sure I live long enough to enjoy the bottles I’ve squirreled away. Something akin to “I work out to eat.” Those who read this presumably enjoy the empty calories that delicious Northwest wines add to our diet. Here are some of summertime touring tips that address adding and removing calories.

Tickling the ivories. Winemakers do a lot of orchestrating when it comes to harvest, but at Tunnel Hill Winery in Chelan, Wash., they make some rather beautiful music in addition to the wines. Every Thursday in June and July, winemaker Guy Evans will play the piano during happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. at his family’s winery. Glass pours are $5, and cheese plates are available. Evans is quite a Renaissance man. Nearly 10 years ago, he was a videographer who produced the award-winning documentary Broken Limbs: Searching for the New American Farmer. The transition from apple orchards to wine grapes goes a long way in explaining why Tunnel Winery exists. So don’t be afraid to drop a couple of bucks in this piano man’s tip glass at tunnelhillwinery.com.

Outstanding in their field. One of the Northwest’s top producers of cheese is Monteillet Fromagerie in Dayton, Wash., and Pierre-Louis and 20

Joan have become as famous as some of the winemakers in the Walla Walla Valley. They get to write another chapter in their history July 13 by playing host to an event for Outstanding in the Field, a renowned organization based in Santa Cruz, Calif., that stages farm dinners around the country out of their red and white bus. The Northwest leg of their tour begins July 2 in Gaston, Ore., and ends in Dayton, Wash., with WhitehouseCrawford’s Jamie Guerin as guest chef. Two days later, the bus hits Jackson Hole. A seat at the table in Dayton, which comes with a farm tour and wine, is $200. Slice into monteilletcheese.com.

The dog days of summer. A growing number of Northwest wineries dedicate one event to man’s best friend and their wine-loving owners. This year, Northwest Cellars in Kirkland goes beyond that. Bob Delf turns over each Saturday and Sunday in July and August to tailwaggers and their owners for some sniffing and lapping. Door prizes and treats are offered. Last year, the winery supported Homeward Pet, which finds homes for orphaned canines. What’s in the doggie dish this summer? The trail begins at northwestcellars.com.

Wilde times at Township 7. Folks on British Columbia’s Naramata Bench don’t live on an island. They do have a knack for breaking ground at their wineries, though. Mike Raffan and wife Lori Pike-Raffan not only sell wines that have earned Platinum awards two years in a row, but they also produce live theater at their wineries in Naramata and Langley. It’s billed as “Wilde at the Winery,” and Twisted Tree Theatre/Barebones Theatre Productions will put on Oscar Wilde’s An Ideal Husband. The connection? An actress, Jen Viens, works at their

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Naramata tasting room. The performance runs July 29-31 in Naramata and Aug. 12 in Langley. Guests may bring their own picnic but are expected to buy T7 wines. Cost is $20. A portion of the proceeds goes to the Rotary Okanagan International Children’s Festival. Raise the curtain at township7.com.

The cycle continues. According to Bicycling magazine, Northwest wine country is home to two of the nation’s most bike-friendly cities — Corvallis, Ore., (No. 2) and Bellingham, Wash. (No. 3). Davis, Calif., where many top winemakers attended college, ranks No. 1. For years, several wineries around Corvallis staged Bicyclette de Vin about when the Oregon State University football team reported for training camp. Now, Corvallis Tourism helps coordinate cycling tours to the wineries. Call 541-757-1544 or clip into visitcorvallis.com or the Mid Valley Bicycle Club at www.mvbc.com.

Run or walk in The Covey Run. One of the best jobs of branding an event has been pulled off by Covey Run Winery. On Aug. 20, they help as title sponsor for The Covey Run, a 10K race and 5K run/walk that benefits Seattle Children’s Hospital. The race starts nearby at Redhook Ale Brewery, and Covey Run Winery winemaker Kate Michaud gets rather pumped about the event. “I wanted to make headbands with a black feather stuck in it to give out — like a black plumage,” she said. “I thought it would look cool en masse — a bunch of bobbing feathers.” The race does attract some world-class runners. Evan Riggs, who finished the 2007 Boston Marathon, won the Covey Run 10K last year with a time of 34 minutes, 22 seconds. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia and Novelty Hill/Januik assist by allowing racers to use their parking lots. Cost to enter on race day is $40. Trot to runforchildrens.org or coveyrun. com.

Sip of Kitsap. The third annual Kitsap Wine Festival is especially appealing to Seattle winesters because there’s no need to drive to Bremerton. Just walk on the ferry. Harborside Fountain Park is a stone’s throw from the Bremerton terminal. The Aug. 20 event features more than 30 wineries from Washington and Oregon, and nearby Anthony’s at Sinclair Inlet is among the restaurants participating at this event, which benefits the Harrison Medical Center Foundation. Cost is $60 if you wait to buy at the door. Drift over to kitsapwinefestival.com.

More good exposure for Roslyn. Until a few years ago, Roslyn, Wash., was best known as the set for the hit TV series Northern Exposure. Thanks to Suncadia Resort and now Swiftwater Cellars, there’s a wine vibe to the area. And Vintage Vine, one of the Northwest’s best little wine shops, is just up the block from The Brick Tavern. On Aug. 26-28, Swiftwater Cellars holds the fourth annual Wine in the Pines. The first night is an open house at the winery’s Hoist House restaurant. Dress code is jeans and boots. The Grand Gala on Saturday afternoon brings together 50 West Coast wineries and a handful of restaurants that provide small bites among live music. Later, 10 winemakers and the creations of chef Paul Cotta will be the focus of a dinner party in the Swiftwater Room. Go mining at swiftwatercellars.com.

Will run for wine. The second annual Oregon Wine Country Half Marathon winds its way through Carlton and Yamhill County on Sept. 4. There are requirements to enter W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W I N E C O U N T RY either as an individual or a two-person relay. You must finish in 3 hours, 30 minutes. That means your pace must be 15 minutes, 30 seconds per mile. Prep includes a Thursday packet wine reception at the Avalon in Portland and a Saturday pre-race dinner at the retirement home for the monstrous Spruce Goose — Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum near McMinnville. The race starts and finishes Sunday at Stoller Vineyards in Dayton. However, fans can watch parts of the race and catch breakfast at the remarkable Abbey Road Farm. There’s a wine and music festival in Carlton, then the post-race party is at Stoller. Cost is $150. Lace up at run4oregonwine.com.

A young trail in the Snake River Valley. Grape harvest in Idaho typically begins a bit later than in Washington, but the budding Sunnyslope Wine & Food Trail of Caldwell celebrates grape and produce harvest Sept. 9-11 with Festa! This second annual event in Canyon County has expanded and embraces wine tasting, local food and music. Last year, Bitner Vineyards played host to a concert. The nearby Orchard House, a past Match Maker, spotlighted peach harvest by offering peach pie, cobbler and pancakes. Williamson Orchards & Vineyards built specials around its tree fruit and estate wines. Greg Koenig, who makes wines for Williamson and Bitner, offered a special release. Davis Creek Cellars, Fujishin Family Cellars and Huston Vineyards — with wines made by Cinder’s Melanie Krause — participated, too. This year, the folks at Huston are staging a Facebook photo contest for folks who take Chicken Dinner wines with them on their world travels. Winners will be announced during Festa! Go to each winery’s site for information. ı What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. ı Have a Northwest wine item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events.

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W I N E C O U N T RY

June 17-18 Wine Country Celebration, Yakima, Wash. Festivities include winemaker dinners in the vineyards and the Grand Gala Auction and Benefit dinner at the DeAtley Estate. Call 206-285-0514 or go to winecountrywashington.org. 25 Sunshine and Wine, Yakima, Wash. It’s the 10th annual tasting of the Washington State Wine Competition. Call 509-248-7160 or go to yakimasundome.com.

July 7-9 Washington Wines Festival, Seattle. More than 50 wineries and a dozen chefs stage four events around the city to support Camp Korey and the Washington Wine Education Fund. Go to washingtonwinesfestival.com or call 206-236-6167. 8-17 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. The scope and scale now is similar to the festivals in the spring and fall. Go to thewinefestivals.com. 9 Uncorked: The Oregon Wine and Art Auction, Dayton, Ore. The 19th annual auction returns to Methven Family Vineyards as McMinnville Rotarians help fight cancer. Go to theoregonwineandartauction.org or call 503-332-5000. 9 Ohme Gardens Wine & Food Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. Ohme Gardens celebrates its 82nd anniversary with area chefs and wineries. Go to ohmegardens.com. 13 Rhône Rangers Public Tasting, Seattle. This carnival-style tasting at Pier 66 is called “Guest Chef on the Waterfront” and includes wineries and restaurants. Proceeds benefit FareStart. Go to rhonerangers.org. 15-17 Kirkland Uncorked, Kirkland, Wash. City officials stage the event in Kirkland Marina Park featuring wineries with food-and-wine pairing workshops. Go to kirklanduncorked.com or call 206-633-0422. 16 Horse Heaven Hills Wine Growers Trail Drive, Paterson, Wash. The sixth annual tour visits six wineries and ends with a barbecue at Crow Butte Park on the Columbia River. Go to horseheavenhillswinegrowers.org or call 509-894-4528 21-23 Sun Valley Wine Auction, Sun Valley, Idaho. The Sun Valley Center for the Arts stages its 30th annual charity wine auction. Go to sunvalleycenter.org. 29-31 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, Ore. Global Pinotphiles visit Linfield College for the 25th year. Call 800-775-4762 or go to ipnc.org.

August 13 Prosser Wine and Food Fair, Prosser, Wash. More than 30 wineries help celebrate the 30th anniversary of the event, which is at the new Walter Clore Center. Call 800-408-1517 or go to prosserchamber.org. 18-20 Auction of Washington Wines, Woodinville, Wash. The Washington Wine Commission’s 24th annual benefit is headquartered at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Call 206-326-5747 or go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org. 26-28 Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, Vancouver, Wash. This 13th annual event at Esther Short Park features regional wineries, area restaurants and several topname recording artists. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com or call 360-906-0441. 20 Leavenworth Wine Tasting Festival, Leavenworth, Wash. Wines, art and music at Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort. Call 800-574-2123 or go to sleepinglady.com. 24-27 Southern Oregon World of Wine Festival, Jacksonville, Ore. This annual celebration by 40 vintners has expanded and moved. Go to worldofwinefestival.com. 26-28 Wine in the Pines, Cle Elum, Wash. Suncadia Resort celebrates Northwest wines with celebrity chefs for a fourth year. Go to swiftwatercellars.com.

September 10-11 Umpqua Valley Wine, Art & Music Festival, Roseburg, Ore. Umpqua Community College celebrate of wines from Southern Oregon for the 42nd year. Call 541-440-4600 or go to uvwineartandmusic.com. 17 Eagle Food & Wine Festival, Eagle, Idaho. Homegrown wines, foods and restaurants gather this year at BanBury Golf Course. Go to eaglechamber.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Bargain Bob loves new source for cheap wine BY “BARGAIN BOB” WOEHLER

Blanc for $3.99 each.

A no-frills grocery store chain known as Grocery Outlet Bargain Market has alerted old Bargain Bob’s radar for some remarkably cheap wine prices. When I mean cheap — er, inexpensive — I’m talking about a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and a tasty Chenin

Grocery Outlet is a group of 150 smallscale stores operating in Washington, Oregon, Idaho and California by independent operators. Together the Grocery Outlet stores manage to look for bargains in everything — canned goods, bread and even wines.

For the size of the store, the wine section is pretty large. And while Grocery Outlet has a large number of bargain California, Italian and Australians wines, there is often a good selection of low-priced Pacific Northwest wines. Grocery Outlet manages to offer such inexpensive wine prices by buying up lots of wines from suppliers who want to clear out a particular vintage or brand. Consequently, the labels on the shelves change frequently, but there are nearly always some wellknown brands available to cause Bargain Bob’s acute sniffer to find cheap wines. Some recent offerings I dug up include the following. Silver Lake 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon,

Rattlesnake Hills, $4.99. Pavin & Riley 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon,

Columbia Valley, $3.99. Sawtooth 2008 Merlot, Snake

River Valley, $3.99. Wooded Island

(the second label of Claar Cellars) 2002 Merlot, $4.99 Pacific Rim 2008 Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley, $3.99. Duck Pond 2008 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, and 2007 Chardonnay, Washington, both for $5.99. Columbia Crest 2005 Shiraz, Washington,

$8.99 for a double-sized bottle. For a one-of-a-kind offering, how about half-bottles of Canoe Ridge 2005 Merlot or a Sagelands NV Ellipse fortified red, each at $2.99. 24

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Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

Sex trade big business for Lake Chelan winery BY JON BAUER

Pity the balsamroot. As a native flower, the sunny yellow daisylike wildflower thrives in open meadows of the Northwest. But given a shot as the name of a winery, it withers. Judy Phelps initially thought Balsamroot was a fitting name for the winery and vineyard she and her husband, Don, started in 2004 along the north shore of Washington’s Lake Chelan. Phelps, retired from a research and development career with Pfizer, went back to school and got her winemaking certification from the University of California at Davis. Don, the vineyard manager, planted Cabernet Franc along with Riesling, Malbec, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris in the gravelly soil in Manson, northwest of Chelan. The couple opened their tasting room in July

2006 under the Balsamroot name, a nod to the native plant that grew among their organically grown vines. The name was fitting but forgettable. Phelps recalls one visitor who wanted to make a return trip, but couldn’t remember the winery’s name and had to quiz a limo driver about just where it

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was that she had been. “People loved the wine, but they couldn’t remember the name,” Phelps said. So the Phelpses sought the help of a local historian who researched three or four colorful stories about the region’s past, in hopes that a good story would suggest a more memorable name. History accommodated the quest with a story from the 1930s about a Manson resident who ran a rowboat and taxi service for copper miners to an uplake lodge called Eaglemont that doubled as a brothel. After kicking around some names, Phelps said, a joint effort produced a name that spoke to the rocky soils the Phelpses found as they planted vines, but also one that evoked the task ahead of that Depression-era oarsman: Hard Row to Hoe. Double entendre intended? “Absolutely,” Phelps said. It’s also given them a fun theme for their wines and the winery. The tasting room is as richly appointed as any bordello. There’s even a red light above the door of the restroom to indicate it’s occupied. And the winery’s organically grown Cabernet Franc is bottled as Burning Desire. There’s an Iron Bed Red, while a Barbera, a Sangiovese rosé and a Viognier each are named Shameless Hussy. Art for the wine labels, depicting a treacherous journey for the little rowW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Balsamroot blooms this spring in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills.

boat over stormy waters with a tentacled beast writhing in wait, was designed by Los Angeles-based illustrator Jon Klassen, whose watery and translucent artwork was featured by the BBC for its opening coverage of the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics. The winery’s website, hardrow.com, features

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an animated version of the label art. The balsamroot can keep its place alongside the grapes in the vineyard, but it’s long gone from the label, in favor of something that sticks easier in the mind. “It really does break the ice,” Phelps said.

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Pacific Northwest Wine Clubs

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THE WINE ALLEY, Fairwood Shopping Center, 14276 SE 176th St., Renton, WA 98058 Finest wines from the Pacific NW & the world 425-271-4501 • www.thewinealley.com

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Tacoma Area WILDSIDE WINE, just off Sixth in Tacoma, at 608 A S. Oxford (3 blocks E of Jackson around the corner from JT's). E-mail for our specials: Carol@wildsidewine.com • 253-565-0811

Olympic, Kitsap Peninsula, San Juans COMPASS WINES, 1405 Commercial Ave., Anacortes, WA. 360-293-6500; fax: 360-588-1895. Extensive collection of rare & collectable wines. Wine storage. Only 2 blocks from the marinas. Dockside delivery available. compasswines.com

Oregon Greater Portland Area BRENTWOOD WINE COMPANY — Internet fine wine weekly auctions. Titanium Schott Zwiesel crystal wholesale & retail. The Northwest's largest buyer of fine wine. For free appraisal, email wine list: appraisals@brentwoodwine.com (503) 638 WINE • www.brentwoodwine.com

Central Washington

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ELLENSBURG WINEWORKS Bottle shop and wine bar. Themed wine tasting every Friday & Saturday. Artisan cheeses, meats, olive oil and more. WE SHIP! www.ellensburgwineworks.com 509-962-VINE (8463)

JACKSONVILLE INN WINE & GIFT SHOP Extensive list of hard-to-find wines. Dinner guests can select from over 2,000 wines (541) 899-1900 (800) 321-9344 • jacksonvilleinn.com

GIFTS OF THE VINE, Ellensburg, WA. 421 N. Pearl St. Suite 100; Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm; Fridays til 7pm and Sundays noon-4pm. Pacific NW wines & gifts; Tastings Fri, Sat, Sun. giftsofthevine@gmail.com • 509-925-1020

THE CELLAR ON 10TH, Astoria. Corner of 10th & Marine Dr. Finest selection of regional wines. Wine bar; weekly tastings; storage; gifts. (503) 325-6600 • www.thecellaron10th.com E-mail us: thecellaron10th@aol.com

Oregon Coast

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NORTHWEST WINE

Twistick a handy, compact, useful corkscrew BY HANK SAUER

Those in the market for a compact and convenient corkscrew need look no further than the True Utility Twistick corkscrew. It is only 2 1/2 inches in length and comes in two parts. There’s the stainless-steel shaft with a ball bearing on the end that becomes the twist handle, and a full-size corkscrew helix. A split ring or key ring then locks the two parts together. The Twistick is quite easy to assemble and use. When in need of a corkscrew and there is none to be found, this tool does a very nice job of removing a cork. This tool fits nicely on a key ring, in a glove box, a backpack for picnics and hikes as well as on a lanyard around your neck. It is also an easy traveler and will make it through airport security. Cost is $8. Go to stuffjunction.com for details. HANK SAUER is Wine Press Northwest’s master facilitator.

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the ultimate guide We take you on a tour of the wineries, tasting rooms, restaurants and lodging of Northwest Wine Country

Washington Wine Country

Snoqualmie rosé on ice.

Washington is — by far — the largest wine region in the Pacific Northwest. In fact, one winery (Columbia Crest) makes more wine than all of New York or Oregon, the Nos. 3 and 4 wineproducing states respectively. Is bigger better? In Washington’s case, more than 700 wineries produce wines from four dozen varieties of grapes, providing plenty of diversity and giving wine lovers the opportunity to explore products from giant producers as well as those crafting just a few hundred cases. Washington is a stunning wine region to explore. In the state’s traditional wine-producing area east of the Cascades, conditions are arid and generally lacking in trees, providing near-perfect conditions for 40,000 acres of wine grapes. Yet only about half the wineries are near the vineyards, while the rest of the industry is closer to the majority of Washington’s population: The Puget Sound region. From there, wineries dot the Interstate 5 corridor from the Columbia River to the Canadian border. And they spread out through the San Juan Islands, the Olympic Peninsula and right to the Pacific Coast.

Col Solare

Red Mountain

e love the Pacific Northwest. We were born here, and we prefer nothing more than exploring every corner of our region. So when we began brainstorming what we would do with

our Summer issue, we hit upon the idea of an “ultimate guide” to Northwest wine country. It’s quite a task to fit the Northwest and its more than 1,200 wineries into 22 pages, so there are compromises on what to include, but we have put togeth-

er a group of articles that spans the Northwest and provides a glimpse of the breadth and depth of wine country. We hope you enjoy this overview of Northwest wine country and use it as a springboard for your own explorations.

WRITERS ANDY PERDUE, ERIC DEGERMAN AND JON BAUER

Yakima Valley The Yakima Valley is Washington’s original wine country. William Bridgman planted wine grapes near Sunnyside in 1917, and Dr. Walt Clore of Washington State

PHOTOGRAPHER JACKIE JOHNSTON

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ultimate guide University used Prosser as his base when he talked farmers into planting grapes throughout the Columbia Valley in the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s. In 1983, the federal government made the Yakima Valley the Northwest’s first official American Viticultural Area. Today, the Yakima Valley remains a focal point of the wine industry. With more than 16,000 acres of vineyards in the ground, it grows more than a third of the state’s wine grapes. It is a huge area, stretching from Red Mountain in the east to the town of White Swan in the west. Inside the Yakima Valley are three smaller appellations: Red Mountain, Snipes Mountain and the Rattlesnake Hills.

wineries Winery regions can basically be broken into two areas (with exeptions): Prosser and the Rattlesnake Hills. Prosser is home to three dozen wineries. A large group is at the Vintners Village on the western end of town, off exit 80 on Interstate 82. These wineries are within walking distance of each other. On exit 82, you will find another grouping, including Alexandria Nicole, Hogue, Kestrel, Mercer and Snoqualmie. Other wineries are scattered in and around Prosser. The Rattlesnake Hills, in the western part of the Yakima Valley, is home to about 20 wineries in such towns as Zillah, Wapato, Outlook and Granger. Snipes Mountain, which is near Sunnyside, is home to one winery. East of Prosser but before you reach Red Mountain, don’t overlook Chandler Reach, a gorgeous Italian-style winery with stunning views. Though the city of Yakima is not in the Yakima Valley, it is home to a growing wine indusW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

try, so take some time to explore that area, too. Two big wine-touring weekends to put on your calendar are Spring Barrel Tasting in late April and Thanksgiving in Wine Country in late November.

restaurants Until recently, the Yakima Valley was a tough place to find a good meal. But Prosser has developed a good restaurant scene in recent years. First on your list should be Wine O’Clock at the Vintners Village. It’s inside Bunnell Family Cellar, and the food is stunning. At Desert Wind Winery, chef Frank Magaña operates Mojave by Picazo for lunches and dinners.

lodging Accommodations are mostly limited to motels, with the Inn at Horse Heaven in Prosser quite convenient to touring the valley. A few B&Bs have sprung up, including the Vintner’s Inn at Hinzerling Winery in Prosser.

other attractions The Darigold Dairy Fair in Sunnyside is a fun detour where you can see how cheese is made.

more information Wine Yakima Valley maintains a superb website (wineyakima valley.org), which has an interactive map and tons of information about the valley. The Rattlesnake Hills wineries maintain a separate website (rattlesnakehills.com).

Red Mountain & the Tri-cities Red Mountain is Washington’s smallest appellation at 4,040 acres, but it’s also becoming one of the most important. Not

only is Red Mountain the warmest grape-growing area in Washington, but it also has attracted top grape growers and winemakers. Just to clarify, Red Mountain is neither red nor a mountain, but “Brown Ridge” doesn’t sound sexy. Red Mountain is on the edge of a region known as the TriCities, home to one of the state’s largest populations. But you won’t find “Tri-Cities” on many maps. Instead, you’ll find the cities of Kennewick, Pasco and Richland. (To further confuse things, the communities of West Richland, Benton City, Finley and Burbank are considered part of the “Tri-Cities.”) The WSU Tri-Cities campus houses the university’s viticulture and enology program. It is in the process of building a wine science center.

wineries Red Mountain is a small area and easy to get around. To get to the wineries, take Exit 96 from Interstate 82. Follow the directions to the wineries from there (if you cross the Yakima River, turn around). Red Mountain wineries can be accessed primarily from Sunset or DeMoss roads. On DeMoss Road, you’ll be able to visit Terra Blanca and Oakwood, while Sunset Road leads you to such wineries as Cooper, Kiona, Fidélitas, Blackwood Canyon, Hedges, Hightower and Tapteil. If you want to visit Col Solare (call ahead), backtrack to Highway 224, turn left from Sunset and turn left on Antinori Road. In the Tri-Cities, you can visit several wineries at once. Bookwalter, Barnard Griffin and Tagaris are neighbors, and Hamilton Cellars and Powers/Badger Mountain

Goose Ridge Vineyards

aren’t far away in south Richland, and other wineries are in north Richland, across the Columbia River in Franklin County and in the Southridge area of Kennewick, along Highway 395.

restaurants There are no restaurants on Red Mountain proper, but you’ll find plenty of local and chain restaurants in West Richland, Richland, Kennewick and Pasco. The highlights include Tagaris Winery’s on-premise restaurant in south Richland just off Interstate 82 and Picazo 717, which relocated this spring from Prosser to Kennewick’s Southridge district. For those looking for brewpubs, Atomic Ale in Richland is well known for its artisan pizzas and Ice Harbor Brewery in Kennewick has two locations.

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lodging Red Mountain and the TriCities have a distinct lack of bed & breakfast establishments, but you can find plenty of accommodations from chain hotels and motels in the TriCities. In Kennewick, the locally owned Clover Island Inn provides unmatched views of the river and the magnificently lighted cable bridge.

other attractions In the Red Mountain/Tri-City area, many of the outdoor attractions are around the Columbia River. One of the highlights is Columbia River Journeys, which provides jet boat rides up the Columbia to the Hanford Reach National Monument. The area also has about a dozen golf courses to take advantage of the 300 days of sunshine, and more than 23 miles of paths line both sides of the Columbia River.

more information The Tri-Cities Visitor & Convention Bureau (visittricities.com) provides extensive information about wine touring.

Walla Walla Valley In the past decade, no wine region in the Pacific Northwest

has gained more global attention than the Walla Walla Valley. Through the 1970s and ’80s, fewer than 10 wineries operated in the Eastern Washington town best known for wheat farming and the state penitentiary. But in the mid-1990s, a few new wineries began to piggyback on the fame of such producers as Leonetti, Woodward Canyon, L’Ecole and Seven Hills. Today, more than 100 wineries call the valley home. Walla Walla is perhaps nearly as famous for its sweet onions, which are in season during the summer and sold at roadside stands. And the valley is home to three colleges. Walla Walla Community College has a viticulture and enology program that has trained and educated many of the valley’s winemakers.

wineries In Walla Walla, wineries tend to be clustered together, so planning a wine tour is as simple as deciding where to spend a morning or an entire day. As you enter the valley from the west, the first two towns you’ll drive through will be Touchet and Lowden. Slow down in Lowden because it’s home to two of the valley’s oldest and finest producers, Woodward Canyon and

Fidélitas

L’Ecole No. 41. As you continue on Highway 12 toward Walla Walla, a new portion of the highway now bypasses a number of wineries, including Cougar Crest, Reininger and Three Rivers. Getting to these wineries is a simple one-minute detour, so don’t overlook them. In Walla Walla, most of the wineries are clustered either downtown or at the airport. Downtown, about 30 wineries are within a five-minute drive, and those clustered around Main Street are within walking distance. Another 30 wineries are east of town, with the majority at the airport, often in World War IIera buildings. They are anchored by such stalwarts as Dunham and Tamarack. Be sure to stop by Le Chateau to check out the 100-foot-wide trompe l’oeil mural that gives the building the look of a Bordeaux chateau. Head south of town about 10

miles and you’ll come upon a group of about 30 wineries, a half-dozen of which are south of the border in the town of Milton-Freewater, Ore. Basel Cellars, with its mansion-like architecture, might be the crown jewel of this area, though you’ll also want to visit such wineries as Northstar, Pepper Bridge, Saviah and Dusted Valley. On the Oregon side, don’t miss a chance to visit Zerba Cellars, our 2011 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.

restaurants Locals can thank the wine industry for the region’s abundance of fine dining. Though the recession has taken a toll on Walla Walla restaurants, there is still no shortage of choices. For starters, we recommend Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen, WhitehouseCrawford and the Backstage Bistro. For breakfast or lunch, head to Olive on Main Street. The Whitehouse-Crawford’s view of Seven Hills Winery

Toasting good wine in Walla Walla

Cheese at Olive’s deli in Walla Walla

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ultimate guide Ice Burg is a local favorite for burgers and shakes. Just west of town is Cugini’s, an Italian grocery that cures its own meats and maintains a wide selection of cheeses. Also check out Andrae Bopp’s rolling eatery. The chef runs a mobile kitchen that changes locations throughout the valley. Follow him on Facebook to find out where he will be on a given day.

lodging The Marcus Whitman in downtown Walla Walla is one of the most famous hotels in Eastern Washington. Built in the 1920s, it found new life a decade ago with a complete refurbishment that brought it back to its past glory. In addition to being the finest hotel in the region, it’s also home to The Marc, a great dining experience. Walla Faces, an unconventional downtown winery, also provides two lodging choices: a downtown hotel on Main Street and guest suites amid vineyards east of town. The valley also is home to many B&Bs. A favorite for wine travelers is the Inn at Abeja, east of town. There are six suites, and they fill quickly, so make your reservations well in advance.

other attractions There is no shortage of things to do in Walla Walla. Check out the Fort Walla Walla Museum and the Whitman Mission for a big dose of history.

Wine News (wallawallawine news.com) is an event calendar and blog about the wine industry. And Catie McIntyre Walker is the Wild Walla Walla Wine Woman (wallawalla winewoman.com), a blogger and wine merchant.

Spokane Many continue to wonder what the Lilac City would look like were it not for Expo ’74. Preparations for staging the World’s Fair were staggering and it resulted in transforming the largest city between Seattle and Minneapolis from a gritty railroad town into an AllAmerican City. Before that, a mother would clutch her child’s hand when walking downtown as train trestles and winos were a blight on Spokane’s riverfront. Four decades later, families continue to enjoy the fair’s greatest legacy — Riverfront Park. And across the Spokane River from the IMAX Theatre is a tasting room for two wineries. Washington’s second-largest city (208,916 pop.) serves as home to 17 wineries, and each is family operated.

wineries The group has made it easy for wine tourists to get a handle on the area by creating self-guided “trails” associated with a map that can be downloaded from

more information The Walla Walla Wine Alliance (wallawallawine.com) provides maps and directions to wineries. Tourism Walla Walla’s website (wallawalla.org) is the best place to go for lodging, food and events. Walla Walla W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Davenport Hotel

the SWA website. Ņ Scenic Bluffs Tour: Arbor Crest, Mountain Dome and Townshend Cellar. Ņ Spokane Valley Tour: Knipprath, Latah Creek, Liberty Lake and Nodland. Ņ Historic East End & River Falls Tour: Arbor Crest’s River Park Square tasting room, Caterina, Lone Canary, Overbluff and Vintage Hills. Ņ Historic Downtown and Carnegie Tour: Barili, Barrister, Bridge Press, Emvy, Grand Ronde, Robert Karl and Whitestone.

restaurants No other place in Spokane can rival Anthony’s combination of regional cuisine, local wines and view of the Spokane Falls. Italian-themed Europa Restaurant and Bakery also supports Spokane vintners, as does Latah Bistro. Luna is well-worth the trek to the edge of the South Hill. Masselow’s at the Northern Quest Resort & Casino spotlights local wines at approachable prices. Fondue-focused Melting Pot wins awards for its wine list. Sante’ and its charcuterie is a favorite among local winemakers. Scratch, which also has a restaurant in Coeur d’Alene, features a number of Spokanearea wines and half-price bottles on Wednesdays. Wild Sage American Bistro continues to support local wineries. The Nectar Tasting Room, operated by a wine blogger, pours for five non-member wineries at the corner of Main and Stevens. Small plates are available, and there’s live music Friday and Saturday.

shopping, nearby Spokane Arena and the park, bedding downtown can be a logical choice. Worthy options include the historic Davenport Hotel and boutique inns such as Hotel Lusso, the art deco Montvale Hotel and remodeled Hotel Ruby. Several historic homes in the city have been turned into B&Bs, among the recommended are Muzzy Mansion and Roberts Mansion. Regional and national chains downtown are clustered around Riverfront Park. In Spokane Valley, there’s Mirabeau Park Hotel. West of town and near the airport is the luxurious Northern Quest Resort & Casino, operated by the Kalispel Tribe of Indians.

other attractions Riverfront Park features walking trails, the 1909 Looff Carousel, the Spokane Falls SkyRide gon-

lodging With the wineries, restaurants, W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • S U M M E R 2 0 1 1

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ultimate guide dola, the IMAX Theatre and ice skating from October through February. On the South Hill, Manito Park’s beautiful grounds include the Japanese Garden, completed in time for the World’s Fair. Indian Canyon, with views of the Spokane skyline, is the crown jewel of Spokane’s four popular and affordable municipal golf courses (spokanegolf.org). There’s a broad network of biking, hiking and walking trails. To get a real feel for Spokane without leaving the car, there’s the 32mile City Drive, which is wellmarked and stretches from Riverside State Park to High Drive on the South Hill.

more information The Spokane Winery Association recently revamped its website: spokanewineries. net. The Spokane Regional Convention and Visitors Bureau’s site is visit spokane.com. River Park Square provides additional information on downtown at riverparksquare.com.

Columbia Gorge & Horse Heaven Hills It is rare for wine regions to cross political boundaries, but the Columbia Gorge in Washington and Oregon is an exception. In the past decade, this region where the Columbia River cuts through the Cascade Mountains has gone from simply being one of the most beautiful drives in America to a wonderful wine destination. The Columbia Gorge can be defined several ways. For touring purposes, we define the Gorge as stretching basically from Hood River, Ore., in the west to Goldendale, Wash., in the east. 34

We’ve also added the Horse Heaven Hills to this part of our guide. This Washington appellation is vast in size but home to few wineries. The Gorge is naturally divided into two parts: Oregon and Washington. To the south, the Oregon side is more developed, thanks to Interstate 84, which provides easy access to Portland. The Washington side is more rural. Each provides equally interesting touring opportunities.

wineries Hood River is the fastest-developing town in the Gorge, and it is now home to more than a dozen wineries, including Cathedral Ridge, Naked, Pheasant Valley and The Pines 1852. Cascade Cliffs, a longtime winery in the eastern Gorge, opened a Hood River tasting room this spring. A few miles east of Hood River is The Dalles, where wineries are beginning to set up shop. Across the Columbia River, most of the action is around the otherwise nondescript town of Lyle, Wash., suddenly a hub for wineries. No fewer than five wineries have set up shop in Lyle, led by Syncline Cellars. Head west on Highway 14 to the towns of Bingen, White Salmon and Underwood to catch another half-dozen producers. To the east, Cascade Cliffs, Maryhill, and Waving Tree wineries are not far apart on the Washington side of the river. In the past decade, Maryhill has defined itself as one of Washington’s top destination wineries. The stellar wines, gorgeous views and 4,000-seat amphitheater make Maryhill a primary stop. As you travel east on Highway 14, you will soon be in the Horse Heaven Hills.

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Wineries such as Alexandria Nicole and McKinley Springs maintain tasting rooms, as does famed Champoux Vineyard. And Washington’s largest winery, Columbia Crest, has a popular tasting room well to the east. Washington’s oldest winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle is planning to open a tasting room at its Canoe Ridge facility.

restaurants Your best bets for food are in Hood River, where several chefs are finding a happy home. Leading the way is Celilo Restaurant and Bar under the tutelage of chef/managing partner Ben Stenn. He ran the Sixth Street Bistro, another favorite spot, before focusing his efforts on Celilo. Mark DeResta, executive chef at the Riverside Grill at the Hood River Inn, hired Stenn for Sixth Street Bistro. Stonehedge Gardens & Bistro is owned and operated by Michael Caldwell, author of Varietal Tendencies, a delicious novel set in Oregon wine country. In a region abundant in great views, there might be none better than that from the dining room inside the Columbia Gorge Hotel, which sits atop a cliff and waterfall overlooking the Columbia River. And the cuisine at this historic property spans from fresh seafood and beef to luscious vegan offerings. For a great cup of coffee, we suggest Doppio, which is not far from Cascade Cliffs’ tasting room in downtown Hood River. Across the river, the Lyle Hotel is well known for its delicious and regionally inspired dishes. And one of our favorite stops for lunch is Walking Man Brewery in tiny Stevenson, Wash. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

lodging Hood River tends to dominate the choices for places to stay in the Gorge, starting with the famous Columbia Gorge Hotel, whose history dates back a century. One of Best Western’s top West Coast properties is the renovated Hood River Inn. Many B&Bs have opened in the Gorge, especially around Hood River. Consider Sakura Ridge Farm and Lodge for a unique Gorge experience. On the Washington side, the Skamania Lodge and Lyle Hotel are great choices.

other attractions One of the most popular activities in the Gorge is windsurfing. In fact, more than a few wine industry folks have set up shop here to take advantage of the near-constant breeze that makes this sport so popular. On the eastern end of the An antique wine press at Syncline Cellars

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ultimate guide between these two regions and stretching to Canada, known as the Columbia Basin, is beginning to build a wine industry, especially in George, Quincy and Moses Lake.

wineries

Canoe Ridge’s view of the Columbia River Gorge.

Gorge, the Maryhill Museum was built by Sam Hill as a home, but his wife didn’t want to live there. Today, it’s a museum with an amazing and eclectic collection of art. Nearby, Hill built a replica of Stonehenge as a World War I memorial.

more information The Columbia Gorge Winegrowers’ website (columbiagorgewine.com) is the best source for up-to-date information on wineries. The Columbia River Gorge Visitors Association (crgva.org) focuses on amenities and activities in the Gorge. Columbia Gorge Magazine (columbia gorge.com) also offers a wide array of information.

Wenatchee, Wahluke, Basin Wenatchee might not be considW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ered “classic” Washington wine industry but, in fact, the state's first two known wineries opened in East Wenatchee and Wenatchee back in the 1870s. Today, the Apple Capital of the World has no plans to change its moniker, but Wenatchee’s winery and restaurant scene is growing. To the west into the Cascades, the picturesque town of Leavenworth is attracting tasting rooms to go along with its Bavarian theme that attracts visitors. The Wahluke Slope is the backbone of the Washington wine industry, thanks to its thousands of acres of vineyards and consistent ability to perfectly ripen grapes. Alas, the region’s remoteness has attracted few tasting rooms, and the Slope’s only town (Mattawa) is not likely to attract tourism. The wide swath of land

Starting in Leavenworth, you will find about a half-dozen wineries and tasting rooms, led by Kestrel Vintners, which has two other locations in Prosser and Woodinville. Follow the Wenatchee River through Cashmere to Wenatchee and East Wenatchee and you'll find a few more wineries, including MartinScott and Fielding Hills, which are across from each other on the Columbia. Saint Laurent is just downriver. Continue following the Columbia River south and you'll arrive at the crown jewel of wine-touring experiences in Cave B, which overlooks the Columbia near the Gorge Amphitheater (In fact, Cave B’s owners created the amphitheater to help sell wine back when they owned Champs de Brionne in the 1980s.) From here, jump onto Interstate 90 and drop into Moses Lake for stops at Dry Falls Cellars and Kyra. If you want to get into the outer limits of wine country, head north on Highway 17 to the town of Wilbur, home to Whitestone Winery (which also has a tasting room in Spokane). If you have plans to go to the Okanagan Valley from this direction, a handful of wineries have popped up in such towns as Omak and Oroville.

restaurants Wenatchee and Leavenworth are home to several good restaurants. Our favorites include Visconti’s, an Italian eatery

with locations in both cities. Visconti's is a perennial winner in our annual wine list competition. Also in Wenatchee, Chateau Fair le Pont was one of the state's first wineries to open an on-premise restaurant. Cave B near George runs Tendrils at the winery.

lodging Leavenworth, being one of the most tourist-friendly towns in Washington, provides many lodging opportunitie. And not to be redundant, but Cave B’s inn provides dramatic views, and its Chiwana Village offers 25 luxury yurts.

other attractions One of the greatest marvels in the West is the Grand Coulee Dam, which was completed in 1942. Lake Roosevelt, created by the dam, is a favorite spot for boaters. And on most summer evenings, a laser light show is projected on the dam.

more information The Wenatchee Valley Visitors Bureau (wenatchee valley.org) and the Cascade Valley Wine Country (cascade valleywinecountry.com) are excellent sources of info.

Lake Chelan Washington’s newest wine region is Lake Chelan, a region in the North Cascades that is home to North America’s thirddeepest lake. For decades, orchards along the shores of Lake Chelan grew some of the world’s best apples and cherries. But the rise of China’s apple industry led to a crash in Washington. In a great example of turning lemons into Cabernet, vineyards began to replace orchards in 1998, and nearly 300 acres of vines now dot both shores at the southern end of the lake.

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Columbia Gorge Hotel

And for decades, Washington residents have spent their summers frolicking in the lake’s waters under blue skies, so the communities of Lake Chelan have long understood how to cater to visitors. In the past decade, visionaries have been building beautiful wineries and creating a destination that has effectively extended Lake Chelan’s tourist season from two months to nine. Meanwhile, top winemakers have begun to relocate to Chelan while homegrown producers have quickly improved their skills. In 2009, everything came together when the federal government approved the Lake Chelan AVA.

wineries Touring Lake Chelan wine country is simple enough. Either pick the south shore or the north shore. All the wineries are in a 20-mile stretch. The south shore is highlighted by Tsillan Cellars, an 36

Italian-inspired winery owned by Dr. Robert Jankelson, who envisioned creating a worldclass destination. Between the beautiful architecture, on-site restaurant and award-winning wines, he has succeeded. Not far away, Karma Vineyards also sports an on-site restaurant. Tunnel Hill, also nearby, is also home to Sunshine Orchards fruit stand. On the north shore, the first winery you’ll come across is Vin du Lac, our 2010 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. Owner Larry Lehmbecker not only makes superb wines on a bluff overlooking the southern end of the lake, but he also runs an on-site bistro. Lake Chelan Winery puts on a great barbecue in its vineyard throughout the summer, and sister winery Wapato Point Cellars features the Winemakers Grill, a restaurant that provides white tablecloth service. Be sure to make time to visit Tildio Winery, Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards and Benson Vineyards. The latter rivals Tsillan for architectural and natural beauty. Not in the Lake Chelan AVA but just a short drive north of town on the Columbia River is Rio Vista Wines, the state’s first winery with a boat-accessible tasting room.

restaurants In addition to the wineries that have on-site restaurants, Lake Chelan provides a number of dining choices. The Vogue Liquid Lounge downtown offers tasty food and plenty to drink, while the Veranda Grill at Campbell’s Resort features Washington’s best wine list. For breakfast, head to Blueberry Hills Farm.

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Benson Vineyards overlooks Lake Chelan.

lodging Lake Chelan offers dozens of choices for places to stay, from high-end resorts to budget motels. With 170 rooms facing the lake and more than 1,000 feet of sandy beach, Campbell’s Resort is the quintessential Chelan experience. And on the north shore in the town of Manson, Wapato Point is a resort on a spit that sticks into the lake that provides plenty of amenities.

other attractions The big attraction here is, well, the lake. That’s the focus of most visitors staying here in July and August. To get the most out of Lake Chelan, you can take the three-hour boat ride from Lake Chelan to Stehekin on the north end of the lake (and another three hours back after a 90-minute layover). Prefer to see the region from the air? Check out Chelan Seaplanes. Golfers will enjoy the challenging Bear Mountain Ranch, high above the lake’s south shore.

more information The Lake Chelan Wine Growers Association (lakechelan winevalley.com) keeps up to date on winery hours and events. The Lake Chelan

Chamber of Commerce (lakechelan.com) provides listings of restaurants, lodging and activities.

Woodinville/ Seattle While you’ll find wineries scattered throughout Western Washington, Woodinville, east of Seattle, has become the center of winemaking in Western Washington. What started with Chateau Ste. Michelle in 1976 has grown into more than 80 wineries and tasting rooms in close proximity.

wineries From I-405, take exit 20 to NE 124th Street, then turn north onto Highway 202 and start making some choices among the wineries clustered around Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia. A short drive away is the warehouse district, which includes dozens of tasting rooms mostly within walking distance. In Seattle, check out The Tasting Room at the Pike Place Market. A more recent addition to Seattle is Urban Enoteca on First Avenue South, while the Library Lounge offers small plates in addition to the wine. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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ultimate guide Creek and Glacial Lake Missoula Wine Co. in Blaine. Restaurants that make the most of the valley’s bounty include the Oyster Creek Inn, clinging to a hairpin curve along Chuckanut Drive and benefiting from its next-door neighbor, Tayor Shellfish Farm; and the Rhododendron Cafe in Bow. The Ridge Wine Bar offers a Northwest-and-beyond wine list as well as small plates and live music in downtown Bellingham. Olympic Peninsula: The

restaurants Isn’t this the year you check off The Herbfarm in Woodinville from your bucket list? Also in the Woodinville area, check out the Barking Frog, Purple Cafe and Wine Bar, Italianissimo and The Twisted Cafe. In Seattle, the choices are even more numerous, in the Pike Place Market neighborhood, check out The Pink Door, Chez Shea, Matt’s in the Market and Steelhead Diner. Also in Seattle look for the Waterfront Seafood Grill, Icon Grill, Poco Wine Room, Smash Wine Bar, Portfolio, Place Pigalle, Canlis, Lark and El Gaucho.

lodging In Woodinville, your best lodging choice is Willows Lodge, next to Columbia Winery. Several chain hotels and motels are not far away. In Seattle, consider the Fairmont Olympic, Sorrento Hotel, The Roosevelt Hotel, the Inn at the Market, the Edgewater Hotel, Hotel Deca and, if you’re saving your cash for wine and dinner, the Green Tortoise Hostel.

other attractions Near Woodinville, you can walk or bike the 10-mile Sammish W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

River Trail between Blyth Park in Bothell and Marymoor Park in Redmond. Teatro ZinZanni offers a Tom Douglas multi-course meal with a cabaret-inspired show under a vintage circus tent. Everybody goes, but that’s no reason not to stroll the Pike Place Market. Then continue your walk along the waterfront to Seattle Art Museum’s Olympic Sculpture Park. Volunteer Park on Capitol Hill offers expansive views of Seattle’s skyline. Also check out The Elliott Bay Book Co.’s new Capitol Hill location. It moved from its funky Pioneer Square home but kept that distinct scent of old books.

Des Voigne Cellars, Woodinville

Northern Olympic Peninsula along the Strait of Juan de Fuca, offers several wineries, including Harbinger, Camaraderie Cellars, Olympic Cellars and its Working Girl wines, Sorensen Cellars, FairWinds Winery, Wind Rose Cellars and Finnriver Farm and Cidery. Farther south along the southern end of Hood Canal is Walter Dacon. Bella Italia restaurant in Port Angeles features Walla Walla and other Northwest wines on its list. Washington Coast: Westport Winery in Aberdeen earned Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Winery to Watch designation. Ocean Crest Resort in Moclips proves a restaurant in a small town can have a great wine list. San Juan Islands: Two fine reasons to visit the San Juans: Lopez Island Winery on Lopez and San Juan Vineyards in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. Restaurants with Northwest wine lists include Coho Restaurant and Bluff at Friday Harbor House in Friday Harbor and the Duck Soup Inn on Roche Harbor Road on San Juan Island.

The rest of Western Washington As we said, you’ll find wineries scattered throughout Western Washington. Here are some recommendations, by region: Whatcom and Skagit counties: This is rich agricultural land situated between the Salish Sea and the North Cascades. Mount Baker Vineyards along the Mount Baker Highway makes a fine destination. Other wineries include Legoe Bay on Lummi Island, and Dakota

Pike Place Market

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ultimate guide The Snake River Valley, thought of as an Idaho appellation, actually crosses into Eastern Oregon and is being explored by wine pioneers. Because we’ve covered the Walla Walla Valley and Columbia Gorge regions in the Washington section of our guide, here we will focus on the areas west of the Cascades.

Willamette Valley

Stoller Vineyards

Argyle’s sparkling wine

Every discussion about Oregon wine begins with the Willamette Valley. It is Oregon’s oldest appellation (approved in 1983) and, by far, its largest at more than 3 million acres. The Willamette Valley can easily be broken into two regions: north and south. The northern Willamette is one of the most fascinating wine regions in the Pacific Northwest, so much so that winemakers and grape growers have further defined it into six more appellations. The southern Willamette generally begins around the town of Monroe and moves south of Eugene to Cottage Grove.

wineries

Abbey Road Farm

Maysara Vineyards

Oregon Wine Country Talk about Oregon wine country traditionally has focused on the Willamette Valley, a swath of land that basically stretches from the Columbia River to Eugene. While the Willamette Valley retains the crown as the most 38

important wine region in Oregon, the wine industry has vastly diversified in the past 15 years. In fact, the short hop from the southern Willamette Valley to the Umpqua Valley to the seamless transition to the Rogue Valley means the whole of Western Oregon from the Washington border to California is wine

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country. And vintners have followed the Columbia River east, turning the Columbia River Gorge into a viable wine-touring region. While Oregon’s participation in the Walla Walla Valley is barely an afterthought for most wine lovers, some of that region’s most important vineyard sites are south of the state line.

From Portland, you can be in the heart of the northern Willamette Valley in less than an hour (depending on traffic). More than 100 wineries are crowded into the beautiful hills and valleys of the northern Willamette, and you can use the towns of Newberg, Dundee or McMinnville as a base camp. With some exceptions, most wineries are within the six smaller appellations. The Dundee Hills is one of the oldest regions. That’s where such pioneers as Dick Erath and David Lett planted their first grapes in the 1960s and where others soon followed. Highway W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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ultimate guide 99W goes through the town of Dundee. Visiting such wineries as Argyle, Sokol Blosser, Erath, Stoller and Winter’s Hill is fairly easy, as they are all within a few miles of each other. Just north of the Dundee Hills is Newberg and the Chehalem Mountains. Chehalem Wines, owned by Harry Peterson-Nedry, is one of the oldest and largest producers here, but several others, including Rex Hill, Adelsheim and ArborBrook, are not far away. Ribbon Ridge, the Northwest’s smallest appellation, is part of the Chehalem Mountains and is home to such important producers as Patricia Green and Beaux Frères. To the east of the Chehalem Mountains and spreading south is Yamhill-Carlton, a horseshoe-shaped appellation that stretches from the town of Gaston in the north to Carlton in the south. The Yamhill-Carlton is loaded with heavy hitters, including Penner-Ash, Ken Wright, WillaKenzie and Elk Cove. Carlton in particular has exploded with activity in the past half-decade, thanks in large part to the Carlton Winemakers Studio, where several wineries reside together under one roof. South of Yamhill-Carlton is perhaps the least-understood appellation, McMinnville. In large part, this is because the city of McMinnville is not inside the AVA but rather adjacent. The appellation contains just a few wineries, including Maysara, Youngberg Hill and Yamhill Valley, while the nearby city of McMinnville is teeming with producers such as R. Stuart and Panther Creek. As we approach the capital city of Salem, we arrive at the Eola-Amity Hills, a landmass that includes such top producW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ers as Bethel Heights, Amity, Witness Tree and Cristom. A number of other producers, including Van Duzer, Arcane and Eola Hills are nearby. North of these six distinct regions is a group of wineries clustered around the town of Forest Grove, including David Hill, Montinore and Apolloni. And one of Oregon’s best, oldest and most important producers, Ponzi, is in Beaverton, northwest of the Chehalem Mountains. Stay on Interstate 5 south of Salem until you get to the town of Turner and you’ll arrive at Willamette Valley Vineyards, our 2011 Oregon Winery of the Year. Ankeny is not far away near the Willamette River before heading south to Tyee near Corvallis then Benton-Lane near the town of Monroe. Between Monroe and Eugene are more than a dozen producers, and another handful of wineries populate the area between Eugene and Cottage Grove, headlined by King Estate.

restaurants With so many great restaurants in Portland, one might think the pickings might start to get a bit thin as you trek into the countryside of wine country. But it’s safe to say the restaurant scene in the Willamette Valley — especially Yamhill County — has been well supported by the wine industry. The Ponzi family launched the Dundee Bistro on the main drag through town, and it has lived up to its billing for many years. Tina’s and Red Hills Provincial Dining also are superb choices in Dundee. Nick’s in McMinnville has been a mainstay for much of the region’s history. Also in McMinnville, Bistro Maison is a French-inspired restaurant.

The Joel Palmer House near the town of Dayton boasts one of the finest wine lists in Oregon, and the Czarnecki family uses its menu to show off what can be done with Oregon mushrooms and truffles. Cuvée in Carlton features French-style cuisine, and Cana’s Feast Winery’s on-premise Cucina provides a taste of Italy. In the southern Willamette Valley, King Estate’s on-premise restaurant features dishes that use produce grown on property or from local farmers. Not far away in Eugene, Adam’s Sustainable Table uses organic, all-natural ingredients from a 75-mile radius. And in Springfield, Cork & Stein Bistro combines a great wine list with Mediterranean cuisine.

lodging If you like B&Bs, then you will love the northern Willamette. Nearly two dozen are in Yamhill County alone. Those wanting the full wine-country experience should look no further than Youngberg Hill, which combines vineyards, a winery and an inn. Abbey Road Farm in Yamhill-Carlton has created a unique lodging experience: con-

Wildwood

verted grain silos. The rooms are great, as is the estate goat cheese at breakfast. The Allison Inn & Spa near Newberg is the newest and grandest lodging in the northern Willamette, and its restaurant, Jory, features regional cuisine. And the Black Walnut Inn is high in the Dundee Hills and is a gorgeous property with stunning views.

other attractions One of the great experiences in wine country is floating over the vineyards. In the northern Willamette, that’s easy to do with Vista Balloon Adventures in Sherwood. If your children are looking a little bored, drop them off at Enchanted Forest, an amusement park next to Willamette Valley Vineyards. Thanks in part to the University of Oregon, Eugene enjoys a strong brew pub industry, led by McMenamins but certainly not the only local beer in town.

more information In addition to the Oregon Wine Board’s excellent site (oregon wine.org), also check out the Willamette Valley Wineries

Hip Chicks Do Wine

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ultimate guide (willamettewines.com) and the Southern Willamete Wineries Association (southern willamettewineries.com)

Portland Portland can’t claim many wineries, but it does have plenty of wine-savvy restaurants, wine bars and wine shops.

wineries Hip Chicks Do Wine proves you don’t need a fancy estate to make good wine. A Portland warehouse is home to the winery run by Laurie Lewis, Renee Neely and Heather Flournoy since 1999 and produces several wines from Washington and Oregon vineyards and blends named Bad Girl Blanc, Riot Girl Rosé, Drop Dead Red and Wine Bunny. The Portland Wine Project is actually two wineries, Grochau Cellars and Boedecker Cellars, which share a building as well as equipment. John Grochau and his wife, Kerri, started Grochau in 2002 and have been making Pinot Noir and Tempranillo. Grochau is open by appointment. Stewart Boedecker and Athena Pappas of Boedecker Cellars make their Pappas Wine Co.’s Pinot Noir and Gris, and a selection of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Grenache. Boedecker is open Friday, Saturday and Sunday. On Memorial Day, ENSO Winery opened up on the eastside with a 2010 Pinot Gris and 2010 pink. ENSO, Hip Chicks and Grochau also are members of a newly formed PDX Urban wineries, which also includes Seven Bridges Winery, Vincent Wine Co. and Helioterra Wines. 40

restaurants The sum is even greater than its stellar parts when Portland restaurants take the best of what is offered from local growers, ranchers and fishermen and pair them with wine. Among Portland restaurants that shine: Wildwood, a Portland fixture for 15 years, honors local ingredients and boasts a deep cellar of some 250 different wines, including more than 50 Pinot Noirs. You are in Oregon, after all. The legendary Heathman offers a list of 750 individual labels, 6,600 bottles and 60 wines by glass, with an emphasis on Oregon and France. Check its website for winemaker dinners, guided tastings, seasonal wine flights and regional wine dinners. Toro Bravo makes its name with small plates and a local cred that it displays on a charkboard listing of its suppliers. Le Pigeon is for the more adventurous diner and features a French-heavy wine list with some Oregon wines. Combine a

Abacela

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great Northwest red, Angus beef and primo cigar at El Gaucho. Portland has several notable wine bars including Bar Avignon, Kir, Metrovino, Noble Rot and Thirst.

lodging Like the city itself, Portland’s lodging choices present a choice of elegance, trendy, upscale or budget-conscious. Portland’s Hotel Vintage Plaza, a 117-room historic downtown hotel that offers nightly wine tastings, classes, wine-centric packages and a knowledgeable concierge. Pinot Noir fans might ask for the Pinot in Portland package, which includes a bottle of Pinot and two Reidel Oregon Pinot Noir glasses to keep. Likewise, the Heathman (with its famous Beefeater doormen) offers a wine package that includes deluxe accommodations, continental breakfast, a bottle of organic Oregon Pinor Noir and a wine concierge.

Originally the Mallory Hotel, built in 1912, Hotel deLuxe reopened in 2006 after a renovation that restored the downtown hotel’s Art Deco and Art Moderne look and now celebrates the golden film era of the 1940s and ’50s. Situated on the bank of the Willamette River in Portland’s South Waterfront District, the Avalon Hotel and Spa offers 99 rooms, many with views of downtown’s lights and of adjacent protected wildlife habitat. Hotel Lucia downtown offers lavish rooms and services amid cutting-edge design. A vintage bed & breakfast in Portland’s northwest Irvington District, the Blue Plum Inn B&B offers a stately home base near downtown.

other attractions Portland is ridiculously easy to explore without relying on a car, thanks to excellent public transit and the city’s inherent walkability. So take a stroll and check out: Powell’s City of Books takes up an entire city block and is considered by many to be the ultimate bookstore. The Lan Su Chinese Garden is a Ming Dynasty style walled garden with paths, bridges, pavilions exotic plants. Portland’s Pearl District is popular with those seeking entertainment, galleries and nightlife. The City of Roses celebrates the rose at Washington Park’s Rose Garden with nearly 7,000 rose bushes. Museums include the Oregon Museum of Science and Industry, the Portland Art Museum and Oregon History Museum. Yes, you came here for the wine, but Portland also is famous for its craft breweries as well as a few spirit distilleries, including BridgePort and Clear Creek Distillery. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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wineries

Timmy takes a cat nap at Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards

Umpqua Valley This year marks the 50th anniversary of post-Prohibition commercial wine grape growing in Oregon. Those vines weren’t planted in the Willamette Valley, and they weren’t Pinot Noir. Instead, the late Richard Sommers made history at HillCrest in Roseburg with Riesling. There is tremendous diversity to the Umpqua Valley, ranging from the maritime-influenced

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sites of the north near Elkton to Winston in the south, where the sun produces ample energy to ripen grape varieties native to Portugal and Spain. The Umpqua Valley AVA was approved in 1984. It spans 70 miles and includes the Red Hill Douglas County AVA (2005). The largest city is Roseburg, home to the Southern Oregon Wine Institute at Umpqua Community College. In some vintages, Umpqua Valley growers come to the rescue of Willamette Valley wineries with grapes that achieved more ripeness. That begins to explain why owners of Duck Pond Cellars in the Willamette Valley recently planted more than 250 acres of Pinot Noir near Sutherlin. A few years ago, Sonomabased critic Dan Berger referred to the Umpqua Valley as “America’s last great undiscovered wine region.” This will start you on the path to discovery.

The Umpqua Valley Winegrowers break their barrel tours into three categories: Ņ North Tour: By heading south on Interstate 5 and turning west on Highway 38, a sports fan can go from watching a game at the University of Oregon to enjoying a glass of wine at Brandborg Vineyard & Winery in about an hour. The New York Times ranked Terry Brandborg’s Gewürztraminer among the best in the world, which begins to explain why he makes wines for several wineries in the valley. Indeed, the little town of Elkton (pop. 200) is home to three other wineries, Anindor, Bradley and River’s Edge. Sienna Ridge is the only vineyard and winery within the tiny Red Hill Douglas County AVA. A few miles south, near the town of Oakland, is MarshAnne Landing. Ņ Mid-Valley: HillCrest Vineyard isn’t the only winery in this area with history in its roots. Trellising methods developed by Scott Henry made not only him but also his namesake winery in Sutherlin famous. Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards produced the first award-winning wine made in the country from the Austrian white variety Grüner Veltliner. Melrose loves the risk and reward of making remarkable wines, including Tempranillo, from a vineyard planted on a flood plain. Other wineries in the vicinity are Becker, Juliana, Misty Oaks and TeSoAria. Ņ South Valley: Success with Iberian varieties Tempranillo and Albariño raised the profile of Abacela and the rest of the Umpqua Valley. And this spring, Earl and Hilda

Jones opened their showpiece Vine and Wine Center. Nearby, Delfino also is producing Temp, thanks to cuttings from Abacela. Philip Girardet planted his vineyard in 1971, and his son Marc has taken over making their well-known Baco Noir. Chateau Nonchalant got its start in 1998 just around the bend from Girardet. Patrick Spangler’s revived Syrah vines are within eyeshot of those driving along I-5, but nearly all of his award-winning wines use grapes from throughout Southern Oregon. Wild Rose Vineyard near Dillard remains committed to estate fruit and plans to expand. Farther south, just off I-5’s exit 112, the folks at Pyrenees are new to the industry but know enough to have Terry Brandborg make their wines. Fruit wines, particularly blackberry and cranberry, are the specialty at H.V. Cellars, founded as Hawks View Winery. Its new tasting room is on Highway 42, two miles east of Tenmile.

restaurants In Elkton, Tomaselli’s Pastry Mill and Café is akin to an oasis in the desert, providing some of the best breakfast fare in Northwest wine country. In Sutherlin, Pedotti’s Italian Restaurant spotlights two Umpqua Valley wineries with tastings twice a month. And there is gluten-free fare. In Roseburg, there’s Anthony’s Italian Café, Brix 527 and The Mark 5 Grill. In Canyonville, the Camas Room at Seven Feathers Casino Resort offers fine dining. And while best enjoyed as an overnight destination, Patricia Lee’s Steamboat Inn is the setting each spring for arguably the most star-studded winemak-

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ultimate guide er/chef dinners in the Northwest. It is 38 miles east of Roseburg on Highway 138.

lodging Delfino Vineyards’ B&B serves as a convenient, comfortable and peaceful base for touring the Umpqua. Seven Feathers Casino Resort in Canyonville, south of Roseburg, is home to the annual Greatest of the Grape Festival and a chip shot away from I-5. The Steamboat Inn, on the North Umpqua River, is a paradise for wine lovers, families and fly-fishing that enchanted author Zane Grey. Go to thesteamboatinn.com. The Big K Guest Ranch in Elkton also takes an active interest in its winemaking neighbors.

other attractions Winston’s Wildlife Safari includes a 4.5-mile drive for the chance to see some of the 500 residents. It’s just over the hill from Abacela. The Umpqua River is home to some of West Coast’s finest steelhead fishing.

more information To visit the Umpqua Valley Wineries site, go to umpqua valleywineries.org. A number of wineries also are members of the Southern Oregon Winery Association. Its site is sorwa.org. City of Roseburg’s Visitors & Convention Bureau site is visitroseburg.com. Sutherlin Visitor’s Info Center is found at visitsutherlin.com. A great resource for touring the Umpqua Valley and beyond is the Explore Oregon site at traveloregon.com.

Rogue & Applegate valleys The closer to California, the deeper go the roots of grape 42

growing. The Rogue Valley AVA, created in 1991, spans the counties of Jackson and Josephine and not only the namesake river drainage, but also Bear Creek, the Applegate Valley and the Illinois Valley. In terms of size, its 2,500 acres of vines are more than the entire state of Idaho, and the major cities within the AVA are Ashland, Grants Pass, Jacksonville and Medford. The Applegate Valley is where Valley View Winery, near the town of Jacksonville, has a history stretching to the 1870s. Most of the vineyards in the Rogue Valley AVA are along the Applegate River — due south of Grants Pass — and the Bear Creek Valley between Medford and Ashland. However, the Illinois Valley can boast the southernmost vineyard in Oregon, as well as the pathway to both the Oregon Caves and the Pacific Ocean. Here is your guide to touring the Rogue Valley AVA, which, along with the Umpqua Valley, became a sub-appellation of the much larger Southern Oregon AVA in 2004.

rogue valley wineries Cricket Hill, established in 1991 near the town of Ruch, ranks as one of the oldest wineries in the region. Madrone Mountain set up its tasting room in Central Point near the famed Rogue Creamery. Between Grants Pass and Medford on Interstate 5, Del Rio Vineyard is one of Oregon’s most important plantings. The 185-acre site in Gold Hill grows some of the best Syrah and Viognier in the Northwest. Rob Wallace now keeps some of that fruit to make award-winning wines under the

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Wildlife Safari Park

Del Rio Vineyards label. Shady Cove, north of Medford, on Highway 62, is the gateway to Crater Lake and home to Crater Lake Cellars. In Talent, Trium began planting Pheasant Vineyard in 1990 and is one of the few Northwest wineries to bottle verjus. In Medford, there’s quite a legacy behind EdenVale Winery. The Stewart family first started farming the property in 1885 as a pear orchard. Four generations later, they are making wine and using the Voorhies Mansion as a centerpiece. The grounds also play host to a farmers market and a summer music series. And the family operates Enoteca Bistro in downtown Ashland. RoxyAnn Winery remains surrounded by orchards. Weisinger’s of Ashland, just off I-5 on the grade to Mount Ashland, blazed the trail for many in Southern Oregon when it opened in 1988. Its estate Petite Pompadour is traditionally one of the best Bordeaux-style wines in the region.

applegate valley wineries The Wisnovsky family knew its property once belonged to Applegate Valley pioneer Peter Britt. The photographer from California is recognized as the first to plant wine grapes in the 1850s at his home in currentday Jacksonville. In the 1870s, the federal government demanded taxes on the homemade wines he was selling to neighbors. That led to Britt buying vineyard property outside of town and creating Valley View Winery, which he operated until his death in 1906. So in 1972, the Wisnovskys dusted off that name and embraced it. Don and Traute Moore founded Quail Run Vineyards in Talent in 1989 and grow the grapes for Willamette Valley Vineyards’ Griffin Creek label. Only recently did they launch South Stage Cellars. Herb Quady’s kin is famous in California for dessert wines and aperitifs, but he’s won Platinum awards from Wine Press W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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ultimate guide Northwest for his work with Rhône grapes and Cabernet Franc. RedLily Vineyards shows its devotion to Tempranillo by having produced no wine from another variety since starting in 2003. Its tasting room debuts this summer. The Schmidt Family tasting room could be mistaken for the clubhouse at a golf course in Montana, except it is in Grants Pass. Rosella’s Vineyard and Serra Vineyard (by appointment only) are next-door neighbors. Soloro, also in Grants Pass, crafts only Rhône varieties. The late Dick Troon carved out his winery, Troon Vineyard, in 1972 between Grants Pass and Jacksonville with a notable pursuit of Zinfandel. In 2005, the Martin family took over. Also in Jacksonville is Devitt, while Wooldridge Creek is between Grants Pass and Jacksonville at Highway 238. In the Illinois Valley, the Kerivans started Bridgeview Vineyards & Winery in 1982 and have grown it into one of Oregon’s largest wineries with three vineyards totaling 205 acres. Their deliciously affordable Blue Moon line also stands out on shelves for its distinctive blue

Del Rio Vineyard

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bottle. They operate a tasting room in Grants Pass, but their Cave Junction winery is a pleasant place to picnic. Across the highway to the Oregon Caves is Foris, and founder Ted Gerber planted five estate vineyards, giving him 180 acres to play with.

drinking, not driving Express Limousines in Medford features a dropdown link on its site for wine touring, addresses tasting room etiquette and posts some photos on Facebook via express limo.net. Taste of Honey Limousine Services in Central Point provides transportation for winesters starting at tasteofhoneylimo.com.

restaurants Ashland’s culinary scene benefits from being home to Southern Oregon University and the Oregon Shakespeare Festival, and Chateaulin remains a supporter of regional wines. Amuse pours a number of Southern Oregon reds. The Winchester Inn Restaurant and Wine Bar is a true destination offering acclaimed cuisine, local wines and lodging. Medford’s nicer establishments include Bambu (Pan-

Asian) and Elements, a tapas lounge. New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro has helped put Talent on the map. And the Jacksonville Inn boasts one of the best Northwest wine lists in the state as well as a tremendous wine shop. The Carriage House Restaurant at Nunan Estate is tasty alternative. Summer Jo’s in Grants Pass maintains an organic farm and bakery, runs a wine shop, serves morning, noon and night, pours with a local winemaker each Thursday and stages winemaker dinners.

lodging Country House Inns offers an incredible array of upscale options in the Rogue Valley. Three are in Grants Pass — The Lodge at Riverside, The Weasku Inn and Riverside Inn. Five options await in Jacksonville — the 32-room Stage Wine Country Inn, The McCully House Inn, Pine Street Cottage and The Reames House. The Applegate Valley Inn, between the towns of Applegate and Murphy, features four rooms and its spring special will save you tasting room fees. In the Illinois Valley,

Bridgeview Winery operates the Kirbyville Inn B&B.

other attractions Want some cheese with that wine? Well, one of the best producers is North America is The Rogue Creamery, just west of I-5 in Central Point, north of Medford. The Britt Festival in Jacksonville is world famous as a summer-long concert series. Combine culture and entertainment in Ashland at the Oregon Shakespeare Festival. It began in 1935 and has grown to nearly 800 performances each year. For outdoor activities, there’s Crater Lake National Park to the east and the Oregon Caves to the west. And they named their river “The Rogue” for good reason. Go whitewater rafting via orangetorpedo.com. A jetboat trip can be booked through hellgate.com. To catch some big air, go to Rogue Valley Paragliding and Hangliding at rvhpa.org.

more information A good overview of Southern Oregon touring can start with southernoregon.com. To visit the Rogue Valley Winegrowers Association site and see a map, go to rvwinegrowers.org. To visit the Applegate Valley Wine Trail, go to applegatewinetrail.com. A number of wineries also are members of the Southern Oregon Winery Association. Information can be found at sorwa.org. The Grants Pass Visitors & Convention Bureau is at visitgrantspass.org. Medford Visitors Convention Bureau, go to visitmedford.org. A great resource for touring the southernmost part of Oregon is the Explore Oregon site at traveloregon.com.

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Mission Hill

British Columbia Wine Country Marketers got it right when they dubbed Canada's western-most province "Beautiful British Columbia." From the stunning cities of Vancouver and Victoria to the wilds of the islands, Lower Mainland and Interior, British Columbia is amazing in every way. Fortunately for wine lovers, the province has quickly matured since hybrid vines were pulled out in the late 1980s, replaced with proper European grape varieties. These days, wines from British Columbia are turning heads throughout the Northwest and even around the globe. The cuisine is no less superb, thanks to an abundance of fresh seafood and the dedication of local farmers to produce superb ingredients for the province's talented chefs. If you haven't visited British Columbia from the perspective 44

of a wine lover, now is the time to add it to your to-do list.

Okanagan Valley Perhaps no other region in North America has more to offer a wine tourist than British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. The climate mirrors that of Eastern Washington, and temperatures tend to be quite similar. Those factors begin to explain why residents of the prairies flock to the Okanagan during the winter and so many on both shores of Canada choose to retire here. Despite increased production, it is difficult to find these wines outside of the province because what the locals don’t grab, Vancouver will. One delicacy seemingly left for American and Asian tourists is ice wine. It is a serious endeavor in Canada for many reasons, and each winery must have a government agent monitor each harvest of ice wine to

ensure grapes are picked at -8 Celsius or below. Officially, there are five appellations or Designated Viticultural Areas in British Columbia, and two are east of the Cascade Range — the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys. Consumers will see references on bottles to three areas yet to be established as a DVA — the Naramata Bench, South Okanagan and the Golden Mile. If you spot Ogopogo, whip out a camera. There’s reportedly a $1 million reward for the person who can prove the existence of Canada’s version of the Loch Ness Monster.

Kelowna (and beyond) Perhaps the grandest facility in the Pacific Northwest is Mission Hill Family Estate, built in West Kelowna by Vancouver native Anthony von Mandl. Its 12-story bell tower looks out over Okanagan Lake, and the rest of the property is unlike any you will find in North America.

A bee stops for some nectar at one of the lavendar farms of the Okanagan.

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ultimate guide There are a number of reasons to venture north of Kelowna. A 30-minute drive to Okanagan Centre brings you to Gray Monk Estate Winery, where George and Trudy Heiss gave up careers as hairdressers and built a destination winery. Drive beyond the 50th parallel to Salmon Arm and experience the remarkable wines at Larch Hill. In Kelowna, there is the Pacific Northwest’s oldest winery: Calona Vineyards, created in 1932. A trip south along Lakeshore Drive will be rewarded with stops at Summerhill, CedarCreek and St. Hubertus, rebuilt after it was destroyed in the 2003 wildfires. A number of wineries — including Mission Hill — followed Quails’ Gate into West Kelowna. The Stewart family first planted vines here in 1961 and created the winery in 1989. Continue south for First Estate and Deep Creek/ Hainle Vineyards near Peachland. Summerland is home to the winery that planted the seed of what the Okanagan Valley could be. In 1980, Harry McWatters created Sumac Ridge — the province’s first estate winery. Sumac Ridge also pioneered the concept of on-premise restaurants with its Cellar Door Bistro. Now, there are more than a dozen such winery/ restaurants in the valley.

the top wineries in the Northwest. Kettle Valley’s wines achieved cult-status, particularly in Vancouver restaurants, years ago. Hillside, Lake Breeze and Red Rooster both offer ideal wining and dining experiences.

Okanagan Falls Pentâge — our 2011 B.C. Winery of the Year — overlooks Skaha Lake. It is on the east side, south of Penticton. Farther south on the Corkscrew Trail are Painted Rock as well as Blasted Church, where imaginative artwork on labels helps tell the story of how the town of Okanagan Falls got its church in 1929 by using dynamite. Beyond the town of Okanagan Falls, glacier-carved McIntyre Bluff looms larger. On Sun Valley Way are Stag’s Hollow, Noble Ridge and Wild Goose — our 2009 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year.

Oliver McIntyre Bluff serves as the northern boundary for South Okanagan Wine Association, and three wineries — Dunham & Froese, the new Hidden

Chapel and Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate — look straight up at the 1,000-foot remnant of the Ice Age. Both entrances to Oliver proclaim it “The Wine Capital of Canada,” and it is loosely defined by two regions — the Golden Mile along Highway 97 and the Black Sage Bench. American ex-pat Sandra Oldfield’s Tinhorn Creek Vineyards offers remarkable views of both regions, as well as a demonstration vineyard, concerts and now fine dining, courtesy of Miradoro Restaurant. Gehringer Brothers also ranks as one of the go-to wineries in the Okanagan Valley. Next door is Hester Creek, a multifaceted estate winery that offers upscale B&B accommodations and a new restaurant. Sandor Mayer arrived in the valley just before the vine pullout in 1988, planted the Dark Horse Vineyard soon after, and he’s been winemaker for Inniskillin Okanagan since 1992. Cassini Cellars — our 2011 B.C. Winery to Watch — has made many forget his property was a huge lavender farm.

Black Sage Bench Burrowing Owl Estate Winery is the icon of the Black Sage Bench. First were the plantings by Jim Wyse, starting in 1993, and he followed up with outstanding wines, then a restaurant and boutique lodging to match. On the west side of Black Sage Road are a number of noteworthy wineries. Black Hills pioneered the lesser Bordeaux variety Carménère in the province, and Graham Pierce’s Nota Bene blend is among the most coveted wines in Canada. Le Vieux Pin and James Cambridge produce some of the highest-priced wines in the country, and they rarely disappoint. Stoneboat Vineyards is not only an estate operation, but also operates a greenhouse and was Wine Press Northwest’s 2010 B.C. Winery to Watch.

Osoyoos The Osoyoos Indian Band’s wines under the Nk’Mip Cellars label have become world-class thanks to winemaker Randy Picton. On top of that, the band also operates the tony Spirit Ridge Resort, which includes a challenging 9-hole golf course and first-rate restaurant — Passa Tempo.

Similkameen Valley A growing number of wineries in the province appreciate the quality of grape growing done between Keremeos and Cawston. That will continue to raise the profile of wineries such as Clos du Soleil, Crowsnest, EauVivre, Herder and Robin Ridge. The Similkameen can be accessed from Penticton on Highway 3A or Oliver on Highway 3.

Naramata Bench Among the many reasons to tour the Okanagan Valley is to take in the Naramata Bench, one of the most photographed geologic features in the region and home to an amazing concentration and assortment of awardwinning wineries. Australia native Jeff Martin left Quails’ Gate to start La Frenz, and he fashioned it into one of Summerhill’s pyramid cellar

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restaurants There can be no doubt the Okanagan Valley is the epicenter of food-and-wine culture in the Northwest, evidenced by the number of wineries operating on-premise restaurants. The list starts in Okanagan Centre with Gray Monk. In Kelowna, there’s Mission Hill and its outdoor Terrace Restaurant. Quails’ Gate has the Old Vines Patio, Summerhill Pyramid’s the Sunset Bistro and the CedarCreek restaurant, also called Terrace. Not far from CedarCreek is the Manteo Resort, and its Wild Apple Restaurant & Lounge offers imaginative food that will keep lure back guests morning, noon and night. In downtown Kelowna, there’s RauDZ Regional Table. It is the most recent culinary iteration by chef Rod Butters and wife Audrey Surrao. There are two options in Summerland. The McWatters clan owns and operates the lakeside Local Lounge • Grille. On the Naramata Bench, Hillside Estate and Lake Breeze can serve lunch al fresco. For dinner, the Naramata Heritage Inn & Spa offers both fine dining and a wine bar. In downtown Penticton, Greek-themed Theo’s remains popular among wineries. Around Oliver, three wineries offer a complete dining experi46

ence — Burrowing Owl (Sonora Room Restaurant), Hester Creek (Terrafina) and Tinhorn Creek (Miradoro). For breakfast and coffee, the Naramata Café at the base of the Naramata Bench has a regular crowd and doesn’t disappoint. In downtown Oliver, you’ll likely hear some vineyard gossip at the Cock & Bull Cappuccino Bar. In Osoyoos, Dolci Deli & Catering offers great coffee, fresh pastries and smoked meats for breakfast and lunch.

lodging In Kelowna, there’s The Grand Okanagan downtown and its 390 rooms or the Manteo Resort on the east shore. There are more than 10 B&Bs in and around Kelowna. In Penticton, the Lakeside Resort & Casino offers stunning views of Okanagan Lake and is a great base from which to tour. On the Naramata Bench, options include the Georgianstyled Unique B&B. In Osoyoos, the best options for wine lovers are Spirit Ridge Vineyard & Resort, the Walnut Beach Resort on Lake Osoyoos and the Watermark Beach Resort.

other attractions Golfers who leave their clubs behind will regret it. Cyclists also have many opportunties, including the Naramata Bench. The paddle wheeler Casabella Princess uses Penticton as its port of call and stages wine dinner cruises. The Desert Centre just north of Osoyoos features a boardwalk through shrub-steppe.

more information The provincial government’s British Columbia Wine Institute was established in 1990. Touring information and maps are available through its site at

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winebc.com. A listing of the Naramata Bench wineries is through naramata bench.com. Ideas, special offers and discounts are available on British Columbia’s provincial tourism site is at hellobc.com. Thompson Okanagan tourism’s page is at thompsonokanagan.com.

A Cellar Door Bistro dessert

Lower Mainland While the Lower Mainland can’t compete with the Okanagan in terms of the number and density of wineries and vineyards, it remains a rich experience for the wine tourist, offering worldclass restaurants expert in pairing wines with the abundance of the region’s seas and fields.

wineries Although Vancouver and Fraser Valley aren’t as thick with wineries as the Okanagan, wine tourists will find plenty to occupy themselves. Pacific Breeze Urban Winery lives up to the in its name with its warehouse location in New Westminster but offers a cozy tasting room. For more of an estate experience, visit Lulu Island Winery in Richmond and sample its diverse line of varietal, fruit and ice wines. Amid the agricultural fields of Langley you’ll find the wineries and vineyards of Domaine de Chaberton, Township 7 and Vista D’oro.

restaurants Vancouver has a world-class reputation when it comes to restaurants, benefiting from its mix of cultures and proximity to abundant fishing grounds and rich agricultural fields. Among myriad choices in downtown Vancouver, check out the venerable O’Doul’s, whose menu offers wine recommendations for nearly every dish.

Others worth consideration include Brix Restaurant and Wine Bar, Cru, Le Crocodile, a Vancouver institution for 26 years; and sister restaurants Blue Water Cafe and Raw Bar, West and Cin Cin. Wine bars make walking downtown Vancouver an even greater pleasure. Check out Uva Wine Bar, Bin 941 and Bin 942, Raw Canvas, the Regional Tasting Lounge and Au Petite Chauvignol.

lodging Vancouver’s lodging choices are as diverse as its restaurants. You can stay in royal luxury at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, built in 1939, with its iconic green-patina roof, or somewhere with an artist’s vibe, such as the Moda Hotel in a 1908 building kitty-corner from Vancouver’s Orpheum Theatre. Want a place within walking distance of Stanley Park and its waterfront walking and biking trail? The Syliva Hotel, built in 1912, offers that, and it’s ivycovered to boot. Also consider The Sutton Place Hotel, which features its own wine shop. For views of Vancouver’s water and mountains, consider the 31-story Blue Horizon, the Pan Pacific, and the ShangiLa Hotel. The Listel Hotel, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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ultimate guide above the previously mentioned O’Doul’s Restaurant, showcases a collection of contemporary and Northwest Coast Indian art.

also provides service to the Gulf Islands, including Pender, Saturna and Salt Spring, each home to wineries and vineyards.

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wineries

Walk amid Ming Dynasty beauty at the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classic Chinese Garden, then enjoy a dim-sum lunch in Chinatown. There isn’t a better stroll than the waterfront path at Stanley Park, and you can also come face-to-face with a beluga whale at the Vancouver Aquarium in the park. View the works of Emily Carr and other great Canadian artists at the Vancouver Art Gallery. Those without a fear of heights can drive north to the Capilano Suspension Bridge and look down 230 feet to the Capilano River. The Richmond Olympic Oval allows you to ice skate in the tracks of Apolo Ohno.

Many wineries feature estate vineyards that by necessity grow cool-weather varieties. Church and State Wines’ Brentwood Bay winery, south of Sydney on Vancouver Island and minutes from Butchart Gardens, offers a wine bar daily and lunch menu served on its patio Wednesday through Sunday. North from Victoria off the Trans-Canada Highway, you’ll find Averill Creek, Glenterra, Blue Grouse, Cherry Point Estate, Rocky Creek, Venturi-Schulze wineries in the Cowichan Valley and Cowichan Bay area. Among Gulf Island wineries, look for Garry Oaks and Salt Spring Winery on Salt Spring Island. A Gulf Island pioneer since 1997, Saturna Vineyard on Saturna Island grows and produces Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir rosé.

Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands Wine touring on Vancouver Island and British Columbia’s Gulf Islands puts the emphasis on the touring, but what spectacular sights you’ll see along the way by air, vehicle or ferry. Vancouver Island is served by ferries out of Anacortes and Port Angeles, Wash., and Tsawwassen, B.C. BC Ferries

Come face-to-face with a beluga whale at the Vancouver Aquarium.

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restaurants Among the most well-known restaurants, particularly for seafood, is Sooke Harbour House, west of Victoria along the island’s southern coast and off Highway 14, offering dramatic views of the Strait of Juan

de Fuca and Washington’s Olympic Mountains. SeaGrille, at the Brentwood Bay Resort and minutes from the airport and ferries, offers coast cuisine, along with a sushi and wine bar. The Parisian-inspired Bon Rouge Bistro and Lounge in Victoria offers a menu of seafood, game, cheese and wine. In Ganges, on Salt Spring Island, it’s hard to beat the Tree House Cafe, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, where you can dine on covered patio beneath a spreading plum tree.

lodging The obvious choice is Victoria’s landmark Fairmont Empress, which opened in 1908. Whether you stay there or not, you can always lift a pinkie at the Empress’ Afternoon Tea, served daily. For more modern surroundings, consider the Brentwood Bay Resort and Spa, and the Magnolia Inn & Spa. Visitors to the Gulf Islands can choose from a host of vacation cabins and bed-and-breakfast inns, as well as larger inns, such as Salt Spring’s Hastings House in the main town of Ganges or Saturna Lodge on Saturna Island.

The Royal British Columbia Museum’s sculpture park in Victoria.

other attractions The Royal British Columbia Museum is the Smithsonian of the province, offering galleries exploring First Nations aboriginal cultures and art, natural history and modern history and art. To get an idea of how vast British Columbia is, check out the museum’s Big Map, an interactive 21-foot by 16-foot iPadlike animated display that explains the geography and history of the province. Another year-round must-see is the Butchart Gardens in Brentwood Bay, south of the airport and ferry landing.

Dramatic vistas of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Pacific Ocean are plentiful with a drive along the island’s southern coast Highway 14. Plan a stop for hiking and beachcombing at Juan de Fuca Provincial Park.

more information More information is available from Tourism BC at hellobc.com. And on the Gulf Islands, specifically at gulf islandstourism.com.

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A crop duster flies over a vineyard near Nampa, Idaho.

Idaho Wine Country While it’s true and a cliché that the Gem State is known for potatoes, Idaho’s history of gold-medal wine stretches longer than anywhere else in the Pacific Northwest. Accounts in the Idaho Statesman newspaper indicate grape vines were first planted in Lewiston during the Civil War. Two decades later, French immigrant Robert Schleicher began a 130-acre vineyard with Bordeaux varieties overlooking the Clearwater River. Author/historian Ron Irvine notes in his book The Wine Project that such an operation could produce 40,000 cases per 48

year — more than most modern-day wineries. Schleicher bottled many Idaho wines that garnered acclaim and won gold medals at several international expositions in the early 1900s. Between Schleicher and Jacob Schaefer, a German immigrant in nearby Clarkston, Wash., more than 40 grape varieties reportedly were grown near the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake rivers. Alas, the darkness of Prohibition from 1919 to 1933 wiped out Idaho’s wine industry from all but the history books. Vines for wines would not be planted again until 1970. For decades, politicians and religious groups continued to stunt growth. Despite that, wine

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production continued in the Snake River Valley, and it was established as an American Viticultural Area by the federal government in 2007. Soon after, a report by Boise State University showed the wine industry had a $73 million impact on the state’s economy. In 2009, the state-funded Idaho Wine Commission hired a fulltime executive director and Gov. Butch Otter declared June as Idaho Wine Month. The Snake River Valley averages about 12 inches of precipitation, similar to Eastern Washington, and there are advantages to growing grapes at 3,000 feet elevation. Pests such as phylloxera don’t thrive in the volcanic soils or cold temperatures and the wines — particularly white varieties — retain prized acidity. Idaho wineries that rely on state-grown fruit still face obstacles. For example, California wines dominate Sun Valley restaurants and stores. Thankfully, restaurateurs and chefs in Boise and throughout the state have begun to promote Idaho wines and embrace life in wine country. At this point, grape production may be the biggest roadblock to Idaho’s continued growth. In 2001, there were 1,200 acres and more 50 varieties planted. A decade later, there are still fewer than 2,000 acres devoted to wine grapes. And while Riesling has been the best-known variety grown in Idaho, the Snake River Valley’s long-term success — both in terms of viticulture and economics — seems to hang with Rhône varieties, particularly Syrah and Viognier. A number of wineries, including Camas Prairie, do delicious bottlings that feature the official state fruit — huckleberry.

Syringa Winery is named for the state flower. 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards spotlights the appaloosa — the state horse — on its labels. And Indian Creek Winery bottles a blend called Star Garnet, a tribute to the state gem. We’ve divided Idaho into five regions: the Panhandle, the Palouse, the Snake River Valley, the Boise area and the south. A growing number of the wineries charge tasting fees for a variety of reasons, but there remain a few holdouts.

Panhandle wineries Pend d’Oreille Winery in the Idaho Panhandle town of Sandpoint remains Idaho’s northernmost wine destination, and Stephen Meyer has been excelling and expanding since he created it in 1995. However, Meyer and the other North Idaho wineries rely on Washington’s Columbia Valley as their primary source of grapes. Logistics are a primary reason. Coeur d’Alene Cellars, our 2010 Idaho Winery of the Year, pours remarkable Syrah and Viognier at two locations in the Lake City, including its wine bar that’s virtually in the shadow of the world-famous resort. TimberRock Winery is nearly in Washington and overlooks the border town of Post Falls. Kevin Rogers positioned his winery among pine trees and maintains his veterinary practice, so he is open by appointment only.

restaurants Pend d’Oreille Winery’s wellappointed tasting room also serves small plates and stages winemaker dinners, while The Bistro at the Inn at Sand Creek offers a remarkable comW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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ultimate guide bination of cuisine and lodging in the art-influenced community of Sandpoint. In Coeur d’Alene, Beverly’s on the seventh floor of the Resort blends fine dining and its award-winning wine list with remarkable views of the lake. For Italian, seek out Angelo’s. The Wine Cellar continues its legacy of pairing Northwest wines with food and live music. Scratch also highlights regional wines and winemaker dinners. Bistro on Spruce carries Idaho wines and also does breakfast on weekends. Syringa remains the talk of the Inland Empire for its sushi. French-themed Fleur de Sel in Post Falls is only open for dinner. The cash-only Hudson’s Hamburger is a regionally famous — albeit no-frills — lunch stop, and Michael D’s Eatery receives kudos for breakfast.

lodging Of course, there’s The Resort at Coeur d’Alene and several motel chains. Some of the more intimate options include the 15room Roosevelt Inn B&B, a historic, 4-story former schoolhouse operated by an ex-student. Katie’s Wild Rose Inn B&B overlooks the lake and is adjacent to the North Idaho Centennial Trail. Options in Post Falls, less than 20 minutes from Spokane, include the mountainlodge feel of Ida-Home B&B.

other attractions Coeur d’Alene and Sandpoint feature monthly art walks that go through both wineries, and the wineries regularly book live music. Between the cities is Silverwood, the Northwest’s largest theme park. There are a number of championship golf courses, and the Coeur d’Alene Summer Theatre is W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

critically acclaimed. The Coeur d’Alene Tribe operates a resort/casino/golf course in nearby Worley. And recreation options can easily be found in and around two of the nation’s most highly regarded lakes, including the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes and the North Idaho Centennial Trail, which connects Coeur d’Alene and Spokane.

more information As one would expect from one of the nation’s top four-season playgrounds, the Coeur d’Alene Visitors Bureau site is quite encompassing at coeurd alene.org. The Sandpoint Chamber of Commerce is at sandpointchamber.org.

The Palouse (Idaho/Washington) Stuart Scott pioneered modern winemaking in the Palouse, having founded eclectic and acclaimed Camas Prairie Winery in downtown Moscow on Main Street in 1983. He also developed the wine bar and beer shop, but Scott now is in a consulting role after selling to Jeremy Ritter. Boundaries shouldn’t exist in wine country, so trips across the border from Moscow to Pullman and across the Snake River from Lewiston to Clarkston will be rewarded.

wineries A drive of 30 miles south on Highway 95 — which comes with a drop of 1,800 feet in elevation — takes you to Lewiston. At 750 feet above sea level, it’s viewed as “the banana belt” of Idaho because its average low temperature in January is 27.6. And there are two young wineries working with estate fruit for much of their

portfolio. Coco Umiker and Clearwater Canyon Cellars in downtown Lewiston are committed to producing wines from this historic region and source grapes from nearby vines. Colter’s Creek Winery is in nearby Juliaetta, 15 minutes northwest of Lewiston, just off Highway 12 along the banks of the Potlach River. The original 13 acres were planted in the 1970s then neglected until very recently, and at 850 feet it represents the lowest elevation site in Idaho’s wine industry. A University of Idaho grad grows the grapes, while a Washington State University alum crafts the wine. While beautiful, it is somewhat remote, so call ahead. In Pullman, Merry Cellars left the Old Post Office in 2010 for a facility north of town near Highway 27. Few wineries in the Northwest offer more convenient road access than Wawawai (WAH-wah-wee) Canyon Winery, which is alongside the Pullman-Moscow Highway. On some historic maps, the town Clarkston is listed as “Vineland” and Basalt Cellars was the first winery to bring wine production back to this region in 2004. Rick Wasem planted his vineyard in 1997, but most of his bottlings are with Columbia Valley grapes.

restaurants The Woodlands, which opened Nectar five years ago in Moscow, is opening a second restaurant, Bloom, that will focus on breakfast and lunch seven days a week. Nikki Woodland’s Mac and Cheese, which incorporates Cougar Gold, is remarkable. Just down the block from Camas Prairie is Gnosh, formerly the Red Door but still known for local ingredients and late-night dining. In Pullman, Swilly’s is a

Merry Cellars

longtime favorite of Coug moms and dads. Greek-themed Black Cypress, run by a former Nectar chef, also features regional wines. Paradise Creek Brewery moved into the Old Post Office as one of the state’s youngest brewpubs, yet it stages winemaker dinners. Lewiston celebrates its 150th anniversary in 2011, and winemakers sing the praises of Macullen’s. The Sage Bakery is lauded for its freshbaked items, lunches and coffee. In Clarkston, choices include Bogey’s at the Quality Inn and white linen at Sycamore Street Grill. The casual Tomato Bros. boasts of the largest wine list in the valley. Across from the hospital, a variety of desires can be satisfied at Rouge Wine Bar above

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ultimate guide Lewiston area, there are jet boat tours of Hells Canyon and Hells Gate State Park.

more information Lewis Clark Valley’s Chamber of Commerce site is lcvalley chamber.org. The Hells Canyon Visitor Bureau is hellscanyonvisitor.com.

Snake River Valley wineries

Koenig Vineyards makes brandies and vodka in their distillery.

StoneHouse Coffee Co.

lodging Football season makes it difficult to find a bed even in a chain motel near WSU or the University of Idaho. Call ahead to see about the Hazelton House B&B in Pullman or rustic glamping at Mary Janes Farm B&B in Moscow, which is open May 1 to Sept. 30. In Lewiston, the Italianna Inn & Gaslight Village is styled after Tuscany, but chain motels dominate the Lewis Clark Valley.

other attractions Any college campus offers exhibits, museums and prime people-watching, but few provide an experience as delectable as Ferdinand’s Ice Cream Shop at the WSU Creamery. The school’s new championship golf course, Palouse Ridge, continues to receive national acclaim. In the Clarkston50

A dozen wineries — the highest concentration of wineries in the state — are from Caldwell to Marsing as more farmers transition from orchards to vineyards. Consider starting this day by heading west on Interstate 84 and going north on Highway 95 to the town of Weiser (pronounced WEE-zer) for an appointment at St. Regulus Wines. Cross the interstate and continue south on Highway 95 to Parma and taste at Parma Ridge Vineyards. Head east, return to I-84 and take Exit 28 into downtown Caldwell. Begin by swinging on Chicago Street and into Vale Wine Co. (which has vineyards in the Oregon portion of the AVA) and the nearby Coyotes Fine Wines on the Creek wine bar. Work south along 10th Ave., then head west on Highway 55, also known at Karcher Road, to the Sunnyslope area. Just past storied Chicken Dinner Road, you will see signs for new Huston Vineyard and Bitner Vineyard. Veer south on Sunnyslope Road and more wineries come into view: Fujishin Family Cellars, Williamson Vineyards, Koenig Vineyards and the state’s most recognizable winery — Ste. Chapelle. It is the oldest — founded in 1976 — and as the largest at more than

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150,000 cases, its reach also has put Idaho wines in front of consumers like no other in the state. Just south are two of the region’s most established plantings and wineries — Snake River Winery and Hells Canyon, which also features the Zhoo Zhoo label. Across the Snake River in Marsing is where winemaker Gina Davis and her parents pour the wines of Davis Creek Winery. Farther south in Givens Hot Springs is Miceli Vineyards and Winery (by appointment). Beyond Hells Canyon and south of Nampa just off Missouri Avenue is Sawtooth Winery. It was founded by Brad Pintler and is surrounded by the state’s largest and most diverse vineyards. Continue west toward Kuna to visit Indian Creek, where Bill Stowe has turned one the Northwest’s most bucolic and friendliest operations over to his daughter and winemaker sonin-law.

restaurants The Orchard House is ideally situated on Sunnyslope Road for tourists and winemakers alike, offering casual breakfast, lunch and dinner. In nearby Marsing, the Sand Bar Restaurant serves frog legs and pours Idaho wines at near retail prices. In Nampa, chef/owner Dustan Bristol turned Brick 29 Bistro into a winemaker hangout and draws diners from throughout the Treasure Valley. The nearby Flying M Coffee Garage is a great way to end or begin your day of touring with its live music and bakery.

lodging Bitner Vineyard offers a true wine country B&B experience as you wake up to the morning sun

and are surrounded by grape vines and views of the Snake River Valley. Wild Rose Manor, close to downtown Caldwell and I-84, features a long list of creature comforts. There is also an array of motel chains to choose from.

other attractions Those traveling with children may consider leaving them at Roaring Springs Water Park one day and Wahooz Family Fun Zone the next. They are next door to each other in Meridian, just off I-84, between Boise and Nampa. Eagle Island State Park west of Boise features a waterslide, a beach, walking trails and a disc golf course.

Boise area wineries Start north of the town of Eagle on Highway 16 and experience the state’s largest organic vineyard at 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards, Wine Press Northwest’s 2011 Idaho Winery to Watch. Head south to Woodriver Cellars (formerly the Winery at Eagle Knoll) and continue migrating to Meridian and the budding Terra Nativa Vineyards just off Highway 20. Pick up Highway 20 again and head to Boise suburb of Garden City where two female winemakers share facilities – Melanie Krause of Cinder and Angie Riff of Périple (by appointment). Syringa Winery, named for the state flower, also is nearby in. Continue into downtown Boise to find Snake River Winery’s tasting room near the state Capitol. Fraser Vineyard — our 2011 Idaho Winery of the Year — is just a few hundred yards from Boise State’s football stadium. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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restaurants Sadly, the Great Recession shuttered a number of restaurants that supported the Idaho wine industry. A few remain, and restaurateur Dave Krick operates two of them. One is the hip Red Feather Lounge with its signature two-story, clearglass wine display that incorporates stairs leading to a swanky dining area that requires reservation. Next door is Krick’s Bittercreek Ale House, which also promotes regional wines. Among the well-established fine dining spots are Berryhill & Co., and Cottonwood Grille. Twig’s Cellar is a cozy 10table night spot with small plates, a few winemaker dinners, live music and a wine club. A pair of brothers operate two places separately — Flatbread and Fork. One of the top breakfast spots in the Northwest is Goldy’s, just a few hundred yards from the Capitol.

lodging Hotel 43 in downtown Boise is upscale and within walking distance of the state Capitol, Qwest Arena and Bronco Stadium. It’s also less than a minute from I184, making it a great base for wine touring. Around the corner is the luxury Grove Hotel, which is connected to Qwest Arena. The 100-suite Owyhee Plaza Hotel, first built in 1910, was recently renovated. For a more personal touch, The Idaho Heritge Inn B&B is on the National Registry of Historic Places and serves Idaho wine in front of a roaring fireplace. It was built in 1904, owned by Gov. Chase Clark and later was home to Sen. Frank Church. The Modern Hotel is a favorite of industry folks.

other attractions Rent a bike or walk along the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Boise River Greenbelt, which takes you near the Boise Art Museum. The Boise Co-op, established in 1973, operates a well-regarded wine shop and frequently feeds a blog of recently tasted Idaho wines. The Capital City Public Market rivals any Saturday farmers market in the Northwest and nearly a dozen area wineries pour regularly. Each month, there’s First Thursday, an evening of shopping and live entertainment, much of it centered on the plaza area that locals call simply “The Grove.” Within a short walk of the Capitol building is the Basque Block, a kaleidoscopic view into one of the nation’s largest Basque communities. One of biggest characters in the industry is Pug Ostling, director of “whine removal” as owner of The Grape Escape Wine Bar, created in 1994.

Southern Idaho wineries Continue south of Boise on Interstate 84 and you face a decision upon reaching Mountain Home. Head east on Highway 20 — the Sun Valley Highway — to reach Frenchman’s Gulch Winery in Ketchum or continue southeast on I-84 for a handful of opportunities. Cold Springs Winery is in Hammett. Winemaker Jamie Martin and his family planted grapes in this region back in 1980. Carmela Vineyards, just east in Glenns Ferry, is one of the state’s oldest wineries. It’s also unique in that guests may dine, play golf on their nine-hole course, rent a cabin or bring their RV. Just south on Highway 30, in Hagerman is Thousand Springs Winery. Continue

south to tour the organic Holesinsky Winery and Snyder Winery in Buhl. Keep driving to Twin Falls for Hegy’s South Hills Winery, which is open by appointment. At this point, you can nearly see Nevada.

lodging River Roads B&B in Glenns Ferry offers two options — the River Side Room or the Barn Room. The Fillmore Inn B&B in downtown Twin Falls was built during the Depression and has three suites to choose from. There’s also the new Hilton Gardens Inn.

restaurants Chef Kirt Martin, who hosted Cooking on the Wild Side on The Outdoor Channel for three seasons, owns the Snake River Grill in Hagerman. And in Twin Falls, Snake River Valley winemakers recommend Canyon Crest, Elevation 486, the Italian-themed Cucina Gemelli and Rock Creek.

other attractions Anyone within a two-hour drive of Twin Falls should take the time to see Shoshone Falls, the most spectacular of the three Snake River waterfalls upstream

from Twin Falls. And nearby Perrine Bridge is home to an annual BASE-jumping festival. It is only bridge in the United States where the daredevil activity is legal. And nearby is the site of Evel Knievel’s failed attempt to “jump” the canyon in a rocket-powered motorcycle. Buhl, a stop on the old Oregon Trail, touts itself as “The Trout Capital of the World.”

more information The Idaho Wine Commission’s revamped website serves as a model for others to follow. It provides extensive information about wine touring, accommodations, dining and activities for the area. For information, go to idahowines.org. The Idaho Department of Commerce also maintains a site that is quite valuable for touring at visitidaho.org. A good start for lodging possibilities throughout the state is IdahoHotels.org. ı ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press Northwest. JON BAUER is

Wine Press Northwest’s editor-at-large. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photo-

journalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest.

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WINE COUNTRY: DESTINATIONS

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE

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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN

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WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA

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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER

Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection. Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA

509-548-1213

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WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON

WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO & SPOKANE

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NORTHWEST SPARKLING WINE

BUBBLES OVER WITH QUALITY

BY ANDY PERDUE g PHOTOS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON

parkling wine is undoubtedly a specialty wine. It isn’t easy to produce — and to craft it well, you need to be an expert. These facts were backed up in our comprehensive judging of Northwest sparkling wines, which included 38 examples. A quick glance at the top wines shows that those who specialize in sparkling wines tend to make the best, including Treveri Cellars and Domaine Ste. Michelle in Washington and Argyle Winery and Soter Vineyards in Oregon. But there’s also room for newcomers in the category, with Washington’s Westport Winery continuing to show its diversity in winemaking by crafting the No. 3 wine with an unusual grape for bubbly.

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The history of sparkling wine goes back to the Champagne region of France, where the method of doing a second fermentation in a bottle of wine to capture carbon dioxide and, consequently, its bubbles was developed centuries ago. While the Dom Perignon did not actually discover Champagne, the Benedictine monk did make significant contributions to its development. Today, most fine sparkling wine is made “methode Champenoise,” meaning the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, though other methods also are used. In our judging, the No. 1 wine was the first release from a new Yakima, Wash., winery, though owner/winemaker Juergen Grieb is no stranger to bubbly or Washington. He learned his craft in his native West Germany, earning his winemaking degree there and studying sparkling wine production. He emigrated to Washington in 1983 to work for Langguth Winery on the Wahluke Slope. That winery closed in 1987, and Grieb has since worked at Coventry Vale, a custom-crush facility in the Yakima Valley, for nearly two decades. He opened Treveri Cellars last fall, with a focus on sparkling wines, and his expertise has quickly helped him rise to the top.

While sparkling wine is traditionally made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, we found a fun array of grapes being used in the Northwest, including Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat and even MüllerThurgau. Our judges for this competition were Dr. Thomas Henick-Kling, director of Washington State University’s viticulture and enology program; Jay Drysdale, a British Columbia wine consultant and sommelier; Ken Robertson, a Wine Press Northwest columnist and hobby sparkling winemaker; Dave Seaver, a retired scientist and member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel; and Bob Woehler, the dean of Northwest wine writers. The judging was conducted under blind conditions on April 21 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash. On to the results.

OUTSTANDING Best buy! Treveri Cellars $15 NV Blanc de Blanc Extra-Sec Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley Juergen Grieb learned how to make sparkling wine in his native Germany and has honed his winemaking skills in Washington for nearly three decades. The first release of his own winery is a stunner with expressive lemon and pear aromas that invite

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further exploration. On the mouth, this opens with creamy, intense flavors of honey and fresh-off-the-tree orchard fruit. It’s a beautifully crafted bubbly. (500 cases; 12% alc.) Soter Vineyards $48 2005 Estate Brut Rosé, Oregon Tony Soter first gained fame as a top Napa Valley winemaker. Today, he is the man behind Etude in Carneros and his eponymous winery in Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton AVA. His sparkling wine has been a hit since its first release, and this is from estate Pinot Noir. It stands out for its beautiful and delicate aromas of strawberries, blossoms and even a hint of flintiness. On the palate, it reveals elegant flavors of cherries, strawberries and apples. It’s plush on the palate and is loaded with flavors on the midpalate through the lengthy finish. It’s a wonderful example of a great Northwest sparkler. (500 cases; 12.9% alc.) Westport Winery $35 2009 Going Coastal Sparkling Gewürztraminer, Washington Dana Roberts continues to craft first-rate wines for his family winery on the Washington coast, and this bubbly made from an unusual variety

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for the style is impressive. It opens with classic Gewürztraminer aromas of cloves, grapefruits, lychee and ripe apples. At 3% residual sugar, this shows a bit of sweetness along with flavors of rose water, orange zest and big apple notes on the finish. It’s a charming and fascinating bubbly with a great name. (222 cases; 11% alc.) Best buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Blanc de Noirs, Columbia Valley As head of Domaine Ste. Michelle, Rick Casqueiro is the king of Northwest bubbly, producing nearly 300,000 cases of sparkling wine at the Columbia Crest facility in Paterson, Wash. Consistently, this has been his finest wine, winning four Platinum awards in our annual best-of-the-best judging. This wine relies on Yakima Valley Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of freshly baked bread and gorgeous berries, followed by bright flavors of pears, apples and strawberries. (20,081 cases; 11% alc.) Treveri Cellars $17 NV Blanc de Blanc Demi-sec Gewürztraminer, Columbia Valley Owner and winemaker Juergen Grieb turns to his

German roots for this off-dry wine that uses an unusual variety for a sparkling wine — and it’s magnificent. It opens with gorgeous and classic aromas of rose water, lychee, tropical fruit and candied orange peel, followed by flavors of grapefruit, lemon zest, cloves and lychee. It captures the essence of the grape without giving up any acidity. (500 cases; 12% alc.) Argyle Winery $50 2006 Knudsen Vineyard Brut, Dundee Hills Oregon’s best-known sparkling wine producer is Argyle, on Highway 99W in the town of Dundee. Rollin Soles has been Argyle’s winemaker since the beginning, and he uses classic varieties. This vintage-dated effort from estate fruit is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay, and it is superb, with aromas of lemons, limes and apples, followed by plush, creamy flavors of freshly baked bread and rich, ripe orchard fruit. It’s beautifully balanced from first sip through the delicious finish. (500 cases; 13.5% alc.) Argyle Winery $27 2007 Brut, Willamette Valley Winemaker Rollin Soles uses mostly Chardonnay (63%) with Pinot Noir from two estate vineyards to

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craft this dry and delicious sparkler. It opens with aromas of big tropical fruit, tart apples and lemons. On this palate, this opens with beautiful flavors without being overbearing. It reveals harmonious notes of fresh bread and rich orchard fruit, all backed with great acidity. (11,620 cases; 12.5% alc.) 8th Generation Vineyard $23 CDN 2010 Confidence Frizzante-style Rosé, Okanagan Valley This winery north of Penticton, B.C., is one of the Okanagan Valley’s most exciting young producers. It is operated by Bernd and Stefanie Schales, whose family winemaking history goes back eight and 10 generations respectively. This pink sparkler is 75% Pinot Noir and 100% delicious. It opens with aromas of strawberries and raspberries, followed by flavors of delicious fresh fruit that is beautifully balanced. It is superb with great length. (418 cases; 12.1% alc.) Best buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Blanc de Blancs, Columbia Valley Domaine Ste. Michelle — affectionately known as DSM — is a remarkable operation,

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producing hundreds of thousands of cases of sparkling wine in the classic methode champenoise method at affordable prices. That winemaker Rick Casqueiro can craft fine wines at such a value means we have no excuse to not drink more bubbles. This wine, made from Chardonnay, opens with aromas of cream soda and apples, followed by flavors of apples, lemons and fresh, yeasty bread. (32,640 cases; 11.5% alc.) Treveri Cellars $16 NV Blanc de Blanc Sec Müller-Thurgau, Columbia Valley Juergen Grieb again turns to his European roots for this bubbly from the second-most-planted grape in his native Germany. Müller-Thurgau is a “new” variety that is a cross of Riesling and Silvaner created in the 19th century in Germany. This sparkler opens with aromas of pineapples, peaches and apples, followed by delicious flavors of tropical fruit, peaches and limes. It’s off dry at 2.3% residual sugar. (110 cases; 12% alc.) Gray Monk Estate Winery $27 CDN 2007 Odysseey White Brut, Okanagan Valley The Heiss family operates one of

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W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy! A wine that is $15 or under. Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. CDN: Canadian dollars.

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sparkling wine and more. (263 cases; 12% alc.) Best buy! Silvan Ridge $14 2009 Semi-Sparkling Early Muscat, Oregon Silvan Ridge crafts a delicious bubbly made in the style of Moscato d’Asti, a sweet, semi-sparkling wine crafted from Muscat grapes. And this is a classic example, thanks to its high residual sugar (12%) and low alcohol. It’s light, refined and refreshing, a perfect sipper on a warm Northwest afternoon. (4,221 cases; 6.5% alc.) Tru Cellars $47 NV Blanc de Blanc, Washington One of the few wines not part of the Walla Walla Valley legacy is bubbly, but Chad Diltz is going out of his way to change that, making sparkling wine his signature. This opens with gorgeous aromas of orchard fruit and toast, followed by an entry of creamy flavors that lead to notes of Granny Smith apples and a long, robust finish. (200 cases; 12% alc.) Pacific Rim Winemakers $16 NV White Flowers Sparkling Riesling, Yakima Valley Winemaker Nicolas Quille has had a lot of fun making this sparkling Riesling, and it has been an incredible hit for the West Richland, Wash., winery. This opens with classic aromas of lemons, apples and pears, followed by pure flavors of citrus and orchard fruit. There is just a hint of toasty, yeasty flavors to provide a sophisticated finish. (4,200 cases; 11.5% alc.) Sumac Ridge Estate Winery $27 CDN 2006 Steller’s Jay Brut, Okanagan Valley Perhaps British Columbia’s most noted sparkling wine, the Steller’s Jay Brut is named for the provincial bird. This wine opens with aromas of fresh-off-the-tree apples and hints of vanilla, followed by bright flavors of starfruit, apples and lemons. (6,000 cases; 13% alc.)

British Columbia’s oldest and most beloved wineries. This fantastic sparkler is crafted from a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, and it opens with creamy aromas of grapefruits and tart apples. On the palate, it reveals a creamy entry followed by delicious flavors of apples and lemons, all backed with a full mouth feel and bright acidity on the finish. (840 cases; 12.1% alc.)

EXCELLENT Blasted Church Vineyards $25 CDN 2008 OMG, Okanagan Valley Behind the fun-loving names and whimsical artwork at this winery near Okanagan Falls, B.C., are some seriously good wines, including this sparkler made from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. It opens with beautiful aromas of apples, pears and grapes, followed by delicious flavors of bright orchard fruit and even a hint of caramel on the midpalate. It is a tight-knit wine with plenty of aging potential. Text your

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friends about it. (77 cases; 12.7% alc.) Domaine Ste. Michelle $23 2004 Luxe, Columbia Valley While most of Rick Casqueiro’s wines are not vintage dated, Luxe is — and is made much differently. Grapes for the base wine are from select vineyards, then the wine is barrel fermented and aged on the lees before going through the second bottle fermentation and aged five years before release. It’s a splendid wine with aromas of toast and caramel that intermingle with apples and pears. On the palate, it’s beautifully balanced with a plush mouth feel and classic tiny bubbles that show off flavors of lemons, limes and orchard fruit. (2,400 cases; 11% alc.) Cave B Estate Winery $25 2009 Cave B Vineyards Blanc de Blanc, Columbia Valley This destination winery near the Columbia Basin town of George, Wash., uses Chardonnay for this classically made sparkler. It reveals aromas of apples, baked bread and apple butter, followed by flavors of pineapples, lemons and apples. The ample flavors are backed with bright acidity that will help this pair with seafood, chicken

Treveri Cellars $17 NV Blanc de Blanc Demi-Sec Riesling, Columbia Valley This off-dry (3.4% residual sugar) sparkler from Washington’s No. 1 grape provides classic Riesling notes, including aromas of apples and melons and flavors of pears, apples and a hint of lemon. (500 cases; 12% alc.) Best buy! Ste. Chapelle $9 NV Sparkling Riesling, American Idaho’s largest and oldest winery also is its leader in sparkling wine, and this is made from the Gem State’s signature grape. It offers aromas of bright apples, white peaches and oranges, followed by flavors of pears and tropical fruit. Its ample acidity balances the 3% residual sugar, leading to a beautiful and memorable finish. (3,000 cases; 11.5% alc.) Best buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Brut, Columbia Valley DSM’s most popular wine is a classic, with aromas of apples and yeasty bread, followed by bright, delicious flavors of fresh orchard fruit and citrus. It’s a mouth-filling wine with a lengthy finish.

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SPARKLING WINE BY THE NUMBERS

Here are a few facts about our sparkling wine judging: • We tasted 38 wines from 22 Northwest wineries, with one ringer from Sonoma County. • Of the 38 Northwest wines, 22 were nonvintage, typical of sparkling wine. The oldest vintage-dated wine was from 2004; the youngest was from 2010. The Sonoma County wine, which earned an “Excellent” rating, was not reviewed. • Eleven wines (29%) earned our top “Outstanding” rating, while 13 wines (34%) received an “Excellent” rating, and eight wines (21%) were rated “Recommended.” Just five wines were not recommended. • The wines tasted represented 342,773 cases produced. • The average price was $23. Eight wines earned a “Best Buy!” designation for being $15 or less. (191,540 cases; 11.5% alc.) Best buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $12 NV Extra Dry, Columbia Valley In the mysterious world of Champagne terminology, “extra dry” actually means sweeter, and this is a perfect wine to serve at parties and weddings. It’s bright and delicious, with aromas of caramel apples and rich, creamy, plush flavors of citrus and tropical fruit. Thanks to its ample acidity, the 2.3% residual sugar is perfectly balanced. (51,900 cases; 11.5% alc.) Summerhill Pyramid Winery $30 CDN NV Cipes Rosé Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley Owner Steve Cipes ages his wines in a scale model of the Cheops Pyramid in Giza, and the energy coming from this bubbly reveals aromas of strawberries and cherries and bright, expressive flavors of berries and fresh bread. (750 cases; 12% alc.) Best buy! Ste. Chapelle $8 NV Sparkling Brut, American Winemaker Chuck Devlin uses Chardonnay from the Snake River Valley for this dry sparkling wine. It reveals aromas of spices, minerality, oranges and lemons, followed by gorgeous flavors of orchard and citrus fruit. It’s a harmonious wine that is full flavored. (3,000 cases; 12% alc.) Argyle Winery $30 2008 Black Brut, Willamette Valley In the United States, it is rare to find a red sparkling wine (they’re much more common in Australia), but don’t ever expect winemaker Rollin Soles to be entirely conventional. He crafts this entirely from estate Pinot Noir, and it is as beautiful in the mouth as it is in the glass. It opens with fascinating aromas of cherries, raspberries, violets, lavender and sage, followed by bold flavors that are expertly balanced between tannin, sweetness and

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TA S T I N G R E S U LT S

• The average alcohol was 12%. • The average residual sugar was 2%. • The wines came from 10 appellations: Columbia Valley (13 wines), Washington (8), Okanagan Valley (6), Oregon (3), Willamette Valley (2), American (2), Yakima Valley (1), Fraser Valley (1), Dundee Hills (1) and Columbia Gorge (1). PA I R I N G F O O D A N D S PA R K L I N G W I N E

While often thought of as a wine to enjoy during celebrations, sparkling wine actually is one of the most versatile food-pairing wines. Here are a few suggestions for pairing food with sparkling wine. D r y : Oysters, salami, smoked salmon, veggies with artichoke dip, chocolate desserts. O f f - d r y : Spicier dishes, such as Chinese or Thai cuisine. Also consider with salty dishes. S w e e t e r : Spicy dishes (Mexican, South Indian, Korean, Caribbean), sushi, fresh fruits and nuts. S w e e t : Fresh-fruit desserts, hot tubs.

acidity. This is a rare and wonderful treat. (506 cases; 14.5% alc.)

RECOMMENDED Tru Cellars $50 NV My Tru Love, Columbia Gorge Owner/winemaker Chad Diltz traveled to the Columbia Gorge for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to craft this truly delicious wine. It opens with aromas of baked pears, followed by flavors of crisp apples and pears. (300 cases; 12% alc.) Camas Prairie Winery $17 NV Sweet Sparkling Wine, Washington Unabashedly sweet at a crowd-pleasing 7% residual sugar, this Idaho winery uses Washington grapes to craft a wine with aromas and flavors of melons and apples. It’s smooth and dangerously delicious. (30 cases; 12% alc.) Township 7 Vineyards & Winery $30 CDN 2008 Seven Stars, Okanagan Valley Township 7 started in the Fraser Valley and has since expanded to British Columbia’s Interior. Sparkling wine was one of its early hits, and this continues to please, thanks to aromas and flavors of apples, pears and orchard fruit. It’s a bright wine with a rich finish. (55 cases; 11.8% alc.) Camas Prairie Winery $20 NV Sparkling Wine with Natural Raspberry Flavor, Washington This Moscow, Idaho, winery has never been afraid to explore, and this is another crowd pleaser, thanks to its unmistakable aromas and flavors of raspberries. It is surprisingly dry, which allows the luscious flavors to elevate in the mouth to a

superb finish. (30 cases; 12% alc.) Moonlight Sparkling Wine Cellar $20 NV Cafe Metropole Blanc de Blanc, Columbia Valley Allan Pangborn worked at California giant Korbel and also was Domaine Ste. Michelle’s first winemaker. Today, he crafts sparkling wine in small amounts at his Kennewick, Wash., winery. This is a fresh, delicious style with aromas and flavors of apples, backed with creamy texture and just a hint of sweetness. (550 cases; 12% alc.) Mountain Dome Winery $30 NV Cuvée Forte, Washington Founder Michael Manz passed away in 2006 and leaves a legacy of delicious and whimsical sparkling wine. This opens with classic aromas of freshbaked bread, followed by a creamy entry and bright, delicious flavors. (250 cases; 12% alc.) Neck of the Woods Winery $25 2007 Backyard Vineyards Blanc de Noir Brut, Fraser Valley This is a rare wine indeed, purported to be the only bubbly made with Fraser Valley fruit. This uses estate Pinot Noir, and it reveals aromas of honeydew melon and minerality, followed by bright flavors of lemons and limes. (150 cases; 12.8% alc.) Mountain Dome Winery $24 NV Brut Rose, Washington This Spokane winery has been producing sparkling wines since the mid-1980s. This wine is made primarily from rare Washington Pinot Noir, as well as Chardonnay. It is a delicious wine and a tribute to founder Michael Manz. (300 cases; 12% alc.) ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor-in-chief of Wine Press

Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a

regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website is WineCountryCreations.com

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WINE COUNTRY: PROSSER

WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA

2008 Riesling Ice Wine Double Gold Medal Winner “Naturally frozen on the vine. The decadent sweetness and Tasting Room Thu-Mon 10am - 6pm vibrant structure I-82 Exit at Zillah lasts on a long (509) 829-6810 aftertaste.” www.claarcellars.com W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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WINE COUNTRY: YAMHILL COUNTY

26421 NW Hwy 47, Gaston, OR 97119

503-662-4509 Open by appt. & holiday weekends www.adeawine.com

16425 SE Webfoot Rd., Dayton, Oregon (503) 868-7359 Open for tasting 12-5 weekends & by appt. weekdays

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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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WINE COUNTRY: TRI-CITIES & RED MOUNTAIN

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.

Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm â&#x20AC;˘ www.pepperbridge.com Now also open in Woodinville, behind the Hollywood Schoolhouse!

We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.

Amavi Cellars

3796 Peppers Bridge Rd., Walla Walla, WA 99362

509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 10 am to 4 pm www.amavicellars.com Now also open in Woodinville, behind the Hollywood Schoolhouse!

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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY

840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both. Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt

509-527-8400 www.fivestarcellars.com

225 Vineyard Lane - off Mill Creek Road Open Friday afternoons and Saturdays Or by appointment.

509-525-4724 For more info please visit: www.wallawallavintners.com 72

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WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON

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vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER

Big legacy for Woodward’s Small

ick Small’s impact on the Pacific Northwest wine industry is anything but diminutive. Small, owner of Woodward Canyon Winery in tiny Lowden near Walla Walla, launched a quest some 30 years ago to become a winemaker of note. Now he’s added to his wine industry achievements that of Washington’s Grape Grower of the Year. Quite a legacy for a country boy from a pioneer wheat farming family in Eastern Washington. During the last three decades, Small’s Woodward Canyon wines have become one of the most renowned in the Walla Walla Valley, a region that has gained a global reputation for producing highly sought-after wines. And late last year, Small was honored by his grape-growing peers. He’s justifiably proud of that honor, as he has planted 42 acres on some of the rolling hills that are part of the pioneer Woodward Canyon wheat and cattle ranch. The vineyard located about three miles from the winery in Lowden overlooks the foothills of the Blue Mountains. It’s in the general vicinity of where Lewis and Clark traveled on their way back from their epic journey in 1804-1806 that opened up the West to the fledging United States. He said 40 percent of his production of 15,000 cases a year depends on these vineyards. The rest of his grapes come from other Walla Walla sources and a good number of vineyards elsewhere in Eastern Washington, include the famed Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, of which he is a part owner. As much as Small loves growing grapes, he’s gained his greatest reputation in making wines. He now participates in a supervisory capacity in winemaking with his head winemaker, Kevin Mott. Woodward Canyon produces some varieties that aren’t common amid newer Walla Walla wineries. Small makes or has made Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and a white Bordeaux style blend. For the reds, Mott crafts Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Dolcetto, Barbera and a red blend. He also produces two bargain reds under his second label, Nelms Road, named after a crossroad with Woodward Canyon Road, where Small caught the schoolbus as a child. Small began developing a personal interest in winemaking in the mid-1970s with friend Gary Figgins, who went on to found Leonetti Cellar. With Mott’s employment in 2003, Rick has turned his primary attention to hands-on oversight of viticulture techniques at his Woodward Canyon Estate Vineyard, as well as in contracted vineyards. Small is rather unpretentious with his surroundings. He started modestly with a tasting room in an old shed along 74

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Highway 12 until opening a new facility next door a few years ago. He’s now created an adjacent “Reserve House” that is as sleek and modern as they come in the Walla Walla Valley. In the Spring 2000 issue of Wine Press Northwest, our team tasted 19 years of Woodward Canyon Cabernet Sauvignons. This spring, we tasted the 1987, 1994 and 1999 Old Vines Cabs, along with the a fine lineup of current Woodward Canyon wines. It proves now, as it did in 2000, that Woodward Canyon makes red wines to last. Woodward Canyon Winery 1987 Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Inviting bouquet showing aromas

and flavors of Oregon plums, good acidity and lots of Mercer Ranch (now Champoux) Vineyard characteristics. Woodward Canyon Winery 1994 Dedication Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Rich, smooth and still generous, with

complex black olive and bacon aromas and raspberry-blackberry flavors. Woodward Canyon Winery 1999 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley: Called the vintage of the decade at the time,

this beauty lives up to expectation offering an incredible mouth feel of raspberry fruit along with toasty vanilla that explodes in your mouth. Still plenty of life left here. Woodward Canyon Winery 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Estate Walla Walla Valley, $26: Gooseberries, white peaches and melons make

this crisp white a great match with oysters and mussels. Woodward Canyon Winery 2009 Chardonnay, Washington State, $44:

A high-end Chardonnay reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet. Tropical fruit with apples and a slightly nutty taste. Nelms Road 2008 Merlot, Washington, $20: A bargain for a great Walla Walla red and often can be found for under $18 a bottle. Boysenberries come to mind with vanilla spice and a generous finish. Nelms Road 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $20: Ripe Bing cherries, leather and tobacco aromas and great acidity make this a fine pizza wine. Woodward Canyon Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley, $39: Don’t overlook this baby. A rich mouth feel follows

sweet pipe tobacco and oak spice aromas. You’re then into chocolate and mocha flavors and blackberries. Woodward Canyon Winery 2008 Artist Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $49: The beautiful original label of white flowers

leads to a wine with subtle oak and chocolate aromas and finishes with a chocolate-covered cherry flavor. Woodward Canyon Winery 2008 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington, $79: The top-of-the-line red from Woodward

Canyon is rich and complex with dark chocolate, earth and cherry components and great tannins for aging. It comes from 35-year-old vines. BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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