Wine press Fall 2016

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VOL. 18, NO. 3

FALL 2016

WINE PRESS NORTHWEST FE ATU RES

D E PARTME NTS

12 Willamette Valley winery tours soar to new heights 18 Sparkling wine a passion for Bellingham couple 22 Top red wines priced $30 and less

6

Wine Knows

8

A Distant Perspective

24 Red Blends 33 Bordeaux 43 Pinot Noir 47 Rhône 51 Italian 55 Other

66 Match Makers

Wines for the ages

The pursuit of wines selling for less than they should

10 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Grapes for “sparklers” picked early

63 Northwest Wine Events 78 Grapes of Roth

Indulging in Malbec research

Soul-searching bike rides lead couple to Tandem Dinner & Wine Bar

C OVER P H O T O BY J O N AT HAN HO O LEY

B ACKGROU ND PHOTO BY RICH A RD D U VA L

Over

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Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

Editor and Publisher: Gregg McConnell 509-582-1443 gmcconnell@winepressnw.com Contributor: Eric Degerman Contributor: Viki Eierdam Contributor: Andy Perdue Contributor: Dan Radil Tasting panel: April Reddout, Heather Unwin, Hillary Sjolund, Kristine Bono, Richard Larsen, Brad Smith, Eric Zegzula, Hank Sauer and Gregg McConnell.

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Graphic designer: Misty Ayers Columnists: Dan Berger, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Andy Perdue Contributing photographers: Bob Bawdy Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images Viki Eierdam Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Jonathon Hooley In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 E-mail: cperkins@winepressnw.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our web site www.winepressnw.com Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619, e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2016 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication

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F a l l 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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COLUMN

the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

Wines for the ages

W

hen he’s at home in Germany, winemaker Ernst Loosen rarely drinks a bottle of Riesling that's younger than a quarter-century old.

That’s not difficult to do when your family winery has been around for more than 200 years. If you make enough wine and you put enough of it away to hold onto for 25 or more years, then you can drink some of the most interesting wine in the world.

Loosen so believes in the ability of Riesling to age, he has talked Chateau Ste. Michelle into doing something similar, so it started an aged Riesling project. Loosen and Ste. Michelle began partnering in 1999 to create Eroica, now the most famous Riesling in the United States. It uses Washington grapes, and it’s proving to be a wine that ages tremendously.

So now, Ste. Michelle releases its current vintage (typically one or maybe two years old), followed by an older wine — at least five years old. The winery holds back at least 250 cases of each vintage with the intention of releasing them later.

Most of these older wines go to restaurants, along with a little bit being sold to retailers. This is where it gets tricky: If you see an 8-year-old Riesling on a wine list (the 2008 is the current release of the aged Eroicas), you might think the winery hasn't been able to sell its wines, and that can reflect poorly on the winery and the restaurant.

But the right kind of restaurant with the right kind of clientele will see an 8-year-old Eroica Riesling as an opportunity.

And that’s why it’s only 250 cases a year out of more than 20,000 cases produced.

The slice of restaurateurs and consumers who will understand and appreciate an older riesling is pretty thin.

These older Eroica Rieslings also are for sale at the winery (though not on the website), in case an interested consumer wants to purchase them.

And why in the world might we want an older Riesling? Wouldn’t we be better off 6

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drinking them when they’re young and fresh? Certainly, Rieslings are beautifully delicious in their youth. But Rieslings that start out with precise balance of sweetness, flavor and acidity can gain fascinating complexity after a few years. A quarter-centuryold Riesling can be simply stunning, a rare treat to savor.

But it’s not simply Riesling that ages well.

Here in the Pacific Northwest, we are blessed with a great climate for wine. In Washington’s Columbia Valley, it's the warm days and cool nights from August through October. Oregon’s Willamette Valley is on the edge of viticultural viability, and that means fascinating flavors in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley is farther north, meaning even greater shifts in day-to-night temperatures and stunning fruit-to-acid ratios.

And Idaho’s Snake River Valley has highelevation vineyards that bring their own levels of complexity.

All of this means that the opportunity is here for us to hold onto our wines a few more years and discover a whole other level of intricacy and fascination. We could begin to understand what Europeans have known for years: that aged wines are really enjoyable.

But the wine industry isn’t exactly built for that.

First of all, it’s nearly impossible for a winery to purposely do what Ste. Michelle is doing with its aged Eroica program. Wineries are in the business of selling wine, not holding it back. They have mortgages to cover and payrolls to meet. They have a certain allotment of shelf space in retail stores, and if a shelf goes empty with nothing to replace it, another winery can take it over.

There are the complications of taxes, sales people, bankers and governmentgenerated forms related to the fact that we’re dealing with alcohol. Frankly, it’s much better to sell it and move on to the next vintage.

And as consumers, we generally have little patience. We age our wine on the way home from the store — and not much longer. We live in a drink-it-now society.

To be honest, most wine being produced in this world — including Washington — is not meant for aging. When you buy a $15 bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, the winemaker made it with the idea that you'll drink it on Tuesday, not in 10 years. The only way you're going to age that bottle is if you misplace it for a decade.

But wines that are blessed with great balance of fruit, acid, lower alcohol and (with reds) tannin have the opportunity to become something much more fascinating if only we can hold onto it for a few more years.

I think all wineries could learn from the aged Eroica program and maybe hold back a few cases of wines, then re-release them as library selections to their wine clubs (I see a few doing that already). Done properly, the most savvy customers will love the opportunity to purchase properly cellared wines that are a decade old.

A few restaurants — particularly The Herbfarm in Woodinville — already do this for the wineries, which is why we can occasionally find deep verticals of certain wines.

At least one wine shop — Compass Wines in Anacortes, Wash. — also will hold wines for several years before putting them on store shelves or selling to customers who get it. It is a tremendous commitment for owner Doug Charles and his small wine shop, but he understands the importance, and so do his customers.

Let us all look for the right opportunities to enjoy older Northwest wines. An entirely different experience awaits us if we can manage it.

Andy Perdue is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. He’s also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

COLUMN

a distant perspective

The pursuit of wines selling for less than they should

T

he task of the month was to find a set of what was termed “affordable reds,” presumably so our readers will be able to find a set of wines they can purchase and enjoy and know they were not being ripped off.

This is a commendable goal (it always is) and not taken lightly. It’s what I do on regular basis -- factoring in the price when I’m evaluating wine.

I do this almost daily and have a fairly rigid routine that almost all wine judges employ, to one degree or another. It calls for all wines to be held to a guideline in which various factors must be considered if the tasting is to be validated as meaningful to consumers.

Do all the wines have to display varietal characteristics? Isn’t it best when a Merlot smells and tastes like one? (Preferably yes.)

Are there regional elements that give a wine a bit more value? (Such a bonus is devoutly to be wished.)

If there are amorphous red blends in which no varietal is particularly dominant, does the style of the wine enter into a final assessment by the judges? (It ought to.) Or is it merely matter of preference that gives the wine a higher rating? (I’d hope not.)

And finally, especially in this case, what is meant by the word affordable?

For a wine lover who adores dark red wines with a lot of oak, $50 is seemingly not much to pay – not when Napa Cabernet Sauvignons fetch $100 or more. That $50 becomes very affordable once you win the lottery. But hard to justify if you just suffered a pay cut.

A sample bottle of a fine Condrieu arrived in the mail a few weeks ago, so I chilled and opened it. It was nice, lightly floral (some of the Viognier, undoubtedly) and rather complex with the Marsanne adding weight and other grapes lending complexity.

That afternoon I had a business meeting with some people who might appreciate the wine, including one who was a Rhône Valley white wine lover, so I brought it along.

Everyone was impressed with it, none more excited than the Rhône Valley lover, because he knew that the retail price would be high.

And it was. About $85 a bottle. Not really 8

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affordable for most people.

This is not really a wine for the masses.

The reason for telling the tale is simply to illustrate that just because a wine is expensive is no reason to get excited about it. Although some people still will.

Indeed, some people assume that any highpriced wine is good, and in the case of “affordable reds,” the goal is to find wines that are worth a lot more than they sell for.

In my personal evaluation system, I rated the Condrieu before knowing its retail price, and thought it probably ought to sell for about $25 to $35. So $85 is considerably more than I think consumers should spend.

Am I prejudiced against Condrieu? Perhaps.

But as I taste through a set of wines, I have the consumer’s best interest at heart and believe strongly that the word affordable has to have some validity in virtually all wines -even with First Growth Bordeaux.

Three years ago, a San Francisco wine merchant, which had been selling a particular 2006 New Zealand Syrah for $25 a bottle (a fair price) dropped the price to about half of that. It simply had not been selling.

I immediately ordered a case because the word “affordable” had suddenly become paramount in this particular case. At $25, it wasn’t bad. At closer to $12, it was a bargain.

Such a situation occurs about once a year for me. And I often end up with more wine than I really need.

But it’s always a pleasure to have a substantial quantity of a truly great wine that cost a lot less than it ought to.

In the last decade, I have found very few wines in the $10 price range I’d describe as affordable. Usually such wines are simply commodities that are serviceable and have little distinctiveness.

For me it takes about $20 or so to find a bargain.

And it happens a lot more often with more obscure wines then it does with mainstream varietals. Want a bargain? Seek out Barbera, Sangiovese, or Gamay. Cabernet, if it is any good, is almost always priced just a bit too high. So is most Syrah.

BY DAN BERGER

In the affordable red tasting you will see some blended wines that have Syrah as a key blending grape. Nothing wrong with this of course, but for a wine to exhibit the excellence I seek, the Syrah has to exhibit some distinctive varietal aromas.

Plums and raisins do not offer such distinctiveness. Aromas of Black pepper, violets, wet earth, and leafy characteristics do.

These are the aromas we find in cooler climates. We also prefer red cherries (Grenache?), dried blueberries (Barbera or Sangiovese), green tea/black olives (Merlot), and strawberry/spice (Zinfandel) in such blends.

We shouldn’t abandon this subject without a nod to moderate alcohol. Affordable reds, to me, call for a balance and harmony that provides an opportunity for food compatibility, and 16% alcohol usually does not provide this.

It’s one thing for people to lavish praise on such obviously over-the-top pomposity, but when it comes to affordable wine consumption, or even more exalted offerings, the best bets, for me, show alcohol levels that are moderate, in most cases below 14%.

A final suggestion here is to embrace orphan wines. It’s where the best values always are.

Madeline Angevine, Riesling, Scheurebe, Gewürztraminer, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Gamay, and the like rarely are priced too high.

True, a few of these examples are white wines and the task at hand was to find affordable reds. But the point is that obscure varietals usually are the best values anyway, especially if you have already developed a palate that appreciates distinctiveness.

Now that our tasting panel has vetted the field for your enjoyment, you are free to go shopping, more empowered than your neighbors who do not subscribe to this august journal.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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F a l l 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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COLUMN

swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

First grapes picked can go into last wines sold

T

he normal rhythm of the fall grape harvest at most wineries is to pick white wine grapes first, then the later-maturing reds and last of all the grapes for late harvest and ice wines.

And when it’s time to sell those wines, the whites, the late harvests and the ice wines usually are ready a year or two — sometimes even more — before the reds, which generally get barrel aging of 12 to 24 months.

But for wineries that make sparkling wines, harvest often starts two or three weeks ahead of the schedule for even the earliest-maturing whites and perhaps five or six months ahead of the ice wines, which may wait on the vines until a hard freeze in late December or even January.

Grapes designated for sparkling wines are picked early because winemakers seek to preserve their high acidity and want a sugar level of only about 19 to 20 brix. Ideally that combination makes for rather low alcohol — often only 10 to 11 percent — and long aging potential, which allows sparkling wine to mellow and gain complex aromas and a pleasant creaminess on the palate.

Aging potential is important because those early-picked grapes — most often Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — used in sparkling wines often spend several years in a winery’s cellar, lingering long after the last of the long-aging reds have gone off to market.

For example, Michelle (formerly Domaine Ste. Michelle) is currently selling the 2010 vintage of its premium sparkling wine, Luxe.

The production schedule for this fine sparkling wine is an interesting case in point.

The Chardonnay grapes used in this wine are usually picked in mid- to late August, then the free-run juice from the “premier cuvee” is chilled and allowed to settle for 24 hours. It then is inoculated with yeast, and for 19 months, the 2010 vintage was fermented and aged, then bottled in mid-March of 2012 and set aside for secondary fermentation for about 20 weeks more.

Just about the time of its second birthday, 10

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it was then put away for sur lie aging for another three-plus years — 1,148 days, according to Ste. Michelle’s data sheet. Only then were the bottles disgorged and corked, then put back into the cellar for more aging prior to release for sale for about $19 to $20, a 50 percent higher price tag than the $13 Michelle’s Brut, Rosé and Extra Dry sparklers sell for.

At wineries that don’t produce at Michelle’s volume level, such as Argyle Winery in Dundee, which is Oregon’s premier sparkling wine producer, the fine sparklers can be even more costly. They start at $28 for its 2013 Brut and range up to $50 for its other wines from 2012.

Many sparklers don’t have such a leisurely fermentation and aging schedule.

College Cellars, the winery arm of Walla Walla Valley Community College, has released a sweet sparkling Muscat Ottonel for sale less than two months after the grapes arrived for crush. It was priced at about $15.

That meant the wine was for sale by October, even before that year’s final grapes had been harvested.

But such wines are the exception, not the rule. And short-turnaround sparklers tend to show off less finesse — although selling for somewhat lower prices.

Time in the cellar waiting for maturity ends up costing money with sparklers, just as it does for fine reds, which often are out on the shelves two or three years earlier, paying back the substantial cellar time and investment.

Wine word: Maillard reactions Since this issue’s topic has been sparkling wine, it’s the perfect time to talk a little sparkling wine science. And once again, we owe a debt to France, more specifically to a French chemist named Louis-Camille Maillard (pronounced my-yar´), who gave his name to the chemical reaction that occurs when amino acids in foods come into contact with roughly 280- to 330-degree heat. It’s a pretty fancy term for the browning we commonly see

when we bake bread and the crust browns, when we sear a steak, roast coffee or even toast marshmallows.

In wine, however, we don’t see such obvious results from such reactions. Instead, we smell them and perhaps feel them on our tongue. To make sparkling wine using the traditional French method, the wine is fermented a first time, then allowed to settle and clarify. For the second fermentation, each bottle gets a bit of yeast and some sugar to feed its second fermentation. As the sugar is consumed and the yeast dies, its cell walls break down in a process called autolysis, producing amino acids. The Maillard reactions between the amino acids and the sugars (in this case without the high heat) produces the mellow, complex aromas evident in fine sparkling wine after it has been disgorged and allowed further time in the bottle.

When a sparkling wine has enough time to linger on the yeast lees after second fermentation, some miraculous and enticing aromas and textures can develop.

Some of the aromas are often described as yeasty or toasty and sometimes offer a hint of caramel. In one case, a wine that lay undisgorged for more than a decade even displayed coffee aromas. During the same process, a sparkling wine also can develop a creamy mouth feel that’s an appealing contrast to its crisp acidity.

Maillard reactions also play a role in the aromas and flavors developed during the raisining of grapes. Which raises a question: Is that why the late-picked, frozen grapes of ice wine often produce a wine that has aromas of baked apples or pears? That, I guess, is a topic to tackle on another day.

Ken Robertson, the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

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FEATURE

oregon helicopter tours

The approach into vineyards, such as Hawks View, is a breathtaking experience with Tour DeVine by Heli.

Willamette Valley winery tours soar to new heights

BY VIKI EIERDAM

A

ccording to most recent statistics, the Willamette Valley boasts over 20,000 acres under vine. Driving from one vineyard to another is a sight to behold and the way most visitors see this cornucopia of grape varietals. Once reserved for the elite traveler, an aerial view is becoming more attainable thanks to a local aviation training school whose valley roots run nearly as deep as the vines.

Founded in 1983, Precision Helicopters has called the Chehalem Air Park its training ground for over 25 years. As the reputation of Willamette Valley wines spread, Precision started offering custom tours at over $1,000 per chopper. In an effort to make the experience more accessible, Tour DeVine by Heli was born and the idea is taking flight.

David Rath, owner and managing director 12

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of Tour DeVine, said, “I would say, without being overly confident, that 99 percent of everyone who goes on the tour says it is a 15 out of 10. Truly, that is what they say. Or, they say that they had no idea what to expect, but we beat and crushed their expectations.”

The day begins at a selected winery where passengers are greeted with a glass of locallyproduced bubbles complemented by Red Hills Market-supplied fruits and delicious baked goods. If you beat the bird, keep an ear to the air and camera in hand for stellar fly-over photos to post to social media.

In the Chehalem Mountains, guests visiting ArborBrook Vineyards land in the converted outdoor riding arena and are greeted with a glass of white wine before being escorted to a 1910 barn-turned-tasting room.

ArborBrook manager, Angelina Sey, said,

Viki Eierdam Contributing photographer

“There’s a lot of terrain and the diversity of the area that you don’t see from the roadways. You can see the diversity within the vines and differences in the soil with the helicopter experience.

It’s just more of a bird’s-eye view versus standing and looking at it from eye level.”

Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or new to helicopter travel (like myself ), pilots Ty Burlingham and Tyler Sturdevant have just the right combination of patience and confidence to help every passenger settle in quickly. Once securely buckled, it’s up, up and away and the profusion of patchwork-quilt vineyards spread out before you is enough to make you forget any anxiety.

Suddenly, the one closest to the doors is the lucky one as cameras and phones come out and the experience can’t be captured fast enough.

Flying along, the pilots point out interesting geographical information, share a bit of Willamette Valley history and are basically versed to answer a variety of regional questions.

Each stop allows plenty of time for flight tastings or more in-depth tastings, depending on what the group might have shared as special interests. One winery is always chosen as the lunch spot and that’s where Red Hill Market comes back into play.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

oregon helicopter tours FEATURE

T HE VA L L EY

BY AVA

Viki Eierdam Contributing photographer

The day begins at a selected winery where passengers are greeted with a glass of locally-produced bubbles complemented by Red Hills Market-supplied fruits and delicious baked goods.

This gourmet deli and to-go market packs a picnic lunch for each passenger that’s carried on the helicopter and brought out for the lunch stop. An array of charcuterie, cheeses, nuts, and flatbread crackers are cleverly stored in a reusable wine crate with a top that doubles as a cutting board. Wash them down with sparkling water and complete the meal with a satisfying sandwich and some local chocolates. Dietary restrictions can be accommodated with advance notice.

Dundee Hills’ Alexana Winery has a California connection that led it to partner with

Tour DeVine in their first year.

Mark Bosko, director of sales at Alexana, said, “We have a sister winery in the Napa Valley called Revana Family Vineyards and are very familiar with how successful helicopter tour companies are in that wine region. There has always been a demand for this experience in the Willamette Valley and we were really impressed by the high level of service that Tour DeVine offers.”

Providing ample opportunity for return visits, Tour DeVine flies over and touches down in the Chehalem Mountains, Dundee

Viki Eierdam Contributing photographer

Flying along, the pilots point out interesting geographical information, share a bit of Willamette Valley history and are basically versed to answer a myriad of regional questions.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

American Viticultural Areas Chehalem Mountains – Established in 2006, this is where ArborBrook Vineyards, Bells Up Winery, Hawks View Cellars, Ponzi Vineyards and Rain Dance Vineyards can be found. From the rich heritage of Ponzi to the fresh perspective of first generation winemakers, there is not only diversity in the basaltic, ocean sedimentary and loess soils found here but within the vintners themselves.

Dundee Hills – Established in 2005, Alexana, Domaine Roy, Domaine Serene and Stoller are located here.

This is the place to find the first plantings in the Willamette Valley and it was a 1975 pinot noir from the Dundee Hills that won high honors at the 1979 Gault-Millau French Wine Olympiades held in Paris, France that put Willamette Valley pinot noir on the map.

Ribbon Ridge – Passengers may visit Brick House, Domaine Divio, and/or Trisaetum Winery. Vineyards are actually planted on an uplifted landmass or ridge in this unique AVA, established in 2005, that spans a mere 5.25 square miles. Dry farming produces stylistically nuanced pinot noirs, chardonnay and some riesling.

Yamhill-Carlton – Established in 2005, Tour DeVine flies into Fairsing Vineyard, Gran Moraine Winery, Penner-Ash, Soléna and Willakenzie. Shallow marine sediment, a rain shadow created by the Coast Range Mountains and an ideal vineyard elevation range between 200 and 1,000 feet all work together to produce distinctly Yamhill-Carlton pinot noir.

Hills, Ribbon Ridge, and Yamhill-Carlton AVAs— all located within the larger Willamette Valley AVA. Plans to expand into the Eola-Amity and McMinnville AVAs are being considered. Included in the $399 price is a four-hour tour, welcome snacks, lunch, tasting fees and approximately 30 minutes of flight time.

For the safety conscious, all pilots must pass FAA requirements and the staff at Tour DeVine is composed of aviators who’ve built their flight hours aboard a variety of air crafts. Four passengers and two pilots fit comfortably in the AIRBUS AS350B2 (aka A-Star) and, for smaller groups, there’s the F a l l 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

oregon helicopter tours

Bell 206 BIII. Ardent wine collectors will be pleased to know that a storage box has been added to the outside of each aircraft and can hold up to 14 cases of wine.

Speaking from personal experience, sharing a flight over breathtaking vineyards is not only a spectacular memory but an adventure that forms community.

“It is very interesting to see, say, two groups of two people meet at the start of the tour.

They talk but not a lot and then they take pictures of just their group. By the end of the tour they are hugging and taking a picture all together as if they were the same group. Truly, you meet a lot of great people doing this,” Rath said.

For more information or to book a tour, go to www.tourdevinebyheli.com.

VIKI EIERDAM is a freelance writer based in Vancouver, Wash. who writes a food and wine blog, “Corks and Forks” for the Vancouver Columbian newspaper.

Viki Eierdam Contributing photographer

Sharing a flight over breathtaking vineyards is not only a spectacular memory but an adventure that forms community.

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DRINK IN THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY, 750 ML AT A TIME.

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F a ll 2 0 1 6 • Win e Pre s s N o r thwest

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FEATURE

sparkling winemaker

Sparkling wine a passion for Bellingham couple

BY DAN RADIL

S

ome winemakers will tell you there was really no true, defining moment when they decided to start making

wine.

But for many others, the decision to become a winemaker was based on an epiphany of sorts. Tasting a special bottle of wine, a notable experience at a winery, a walk through the vineyards…something triggered their creative juices and sent them into the winemaking vortex.

For the husband-and-wife winemaking team of Bill and Jennifer Kimmerly of Masquerade Wine Company in Bellingham, Wash., that experience came on a vacation to France’s Burgundy and Champagne regions in 2001.

“The technical aspects of making sparkling wine were always of interest to me,” notes Bill. But after a visit to Drappier Champagne, where fellow travelers introduced him to company president, Michel Drappier, things changed.

“He treated us like one of the family … and I went away with such great detail on how you go from base wine through the Methode Champenoise process, I said, ‘I can do this!’” Bill recalls. “It was really the Burgundian Pinot and Chardonnay, and Champagne – the wine and the regions – that lit the fire under me.”

THE EARLY YEARS After returning to the States and trying their hand at home winemaking, the Kimmerlys took on an alternating proprietorship with Forgeron Cellars in Walla Walla in 2004, where they made their first commercial vintages.

Forgeron winemaker, “Marie-Eve (Gilla) was such a gracious host, really helpful … and a great mentor,” notes Bill. While there, they used the opportunity to build up a 18

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 016

Jennifer and Bill Kimmerly take time out to enjoy a glass of bubbly.

small inventory for their own winery, which was the first to open in the Winemaker’s Loft in Prosser in 2007.

During their three-year term at the Loft, and with the help of a partner winery that provided the disgorging equipment, they made their first sparkling wine; “Effervescing Elephant I.” They then looked west to relocate, with Woodinville and Bellingham as the strongest candidates.

“Bellingham was at the top of my list because I had lived there as a youth and really liked the area,” says Bill, “and it was also closer to my core of friends and family.

However, I really didn’t know any other wineries other than Mount Baker Vineyards.”

That turned out to be a short-lived experience after the doors opened on Masquerade’s Bellingham tasting room in 2011. “I received a call from Ken Peck (then of

Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing photographer

Blaine’s Dakota Creek Winery),” Bill recalls. “He said, ‘We have a winery association … would you like to join our meeting?’ Right there, it was such a different experience for us in Whatcom County than in Prosser … and it felt great.”

THE SPARKLING WINEMAKING PROCESS Over the last five years, the Kimmerlys have sharpened their sparkling winemaking skills with good success, but not without a few bumps along the way. “Sparkling wine can be a challenging wine to sell,” says Bill.

“People have a lot of preconceived notions (‘It gives me a headache’)” that they’ve had to overcome. There’s also the more laborintensive process of making these wines, which oftentimes needs to be reflected in the price.

The basic process begins with a simple, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

sparkling winemaker FEATURE

Current releases of sparkling wines available from Masquerade Wine Company.

but significant difference: a slightly less-ripe base wine. “You want to start with a wine that’s a little bit lower in sugar and a little bit higher in acid,” notes Bill.

“Preserving the acids is important to the body of the sparkling wine. And because you’re adding sugars that will be converted into alcohol during the second fermentation you want to start with a base wine that’s lower in alcohol…(we use) 11.5 to 12.5 percent to begin and no more than 13 percent in the finished product.”

During the second fermentation, sugar solution, a fresh culture of yeast, and a few other fining agents – to prevent the yeast from sticking to the inside of the bottle – are added to the finished wine. A small, plastic plug, called a “bidule” is then inserted into the mouth of the bottle and topped with a crown cap.

As the yeasts turn the sugar into alcohol they release carbonation, a process Bill says that takes about three months to complete.

“But I like to go about nine months, because W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

the longer you’re willing to let it sit on the lees, the better the flavor development.”

It’s during this time that the bottles are turned upside-down and placed at a 45- to 60-degree angle in a riddling rack, where gravity takes over and the yeast and fining agents work their way down into the cup-like, bidule insert. Over the next 15 to 20 days, Bill expedites the process by giving the base of each bottle a shake and a quarter-turn.

When the wine is as clear as possible, the neck of the bottle is placed in a super-cold, refrigerating solution and the sediment is mechanically disgorged. The remaining space is filled, if necessary, with a small amount of sugar solution, depending on the wine’s desired sweetness. Bottles are then corked, caged, and washed before labeling.

OTHER WINERIES, OTHER WINES Today, Masquerade Wine Company is one of only a handful of Washington wineries that produces sparkling wines under their own label on a regular basis. According to

Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Contributing photographer

Bill, that short list includes Treveri Cellars, located near Yakima, Chelan’s Karma Vineyards, and Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville.

Bill notes that other wineries will sometimes release a “one-off ” or limited bottling of sparkling wines, often using experienced winemakers such as the Kimmerlys to make lots of finished wine into the final, sparkling product. Whatcom County’s Mount Baker Vineyards and GLM Wine Company, and Patterson Cellars in Woodinville are just a few of the wineries with which they’ve worked.

Current sparkling wine production for both their own and other labels comes in at about 1,000 cases per year, and Masquerade also produces several other varietals, including Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Syrah that push that total to around 2,500 cases annually.

There’s also the just-released, “Subdued Excitement,” a late harvest blend of Viognier F a l l 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

sparkling winemaker

and Chenin Blanc. The wine’s name is derived from Bellingham’s unofficial city slogan and recently received a gold medal at the Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival.

But it’s sparkling wines that have truly made a name for Masquerade, and in addition to the current Effervescing Elephant II (a Champagne-style blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay grapes), a dessertstyle Sparkling Riesling, and a Sparkling Moscato, the Kimmerlys plan to expand their selections.

Their first 15-case run of Lemberger, a gorgeous, black cherry-flavored, Gamay-style sparkler (which Bill says, “turned out so well, we’ll make it again”) tops the list, and a 95-percent Pinot Meunier-based sparkling Rosé is fittingly scheduled for release next Valentine’s Day. Dan Radil is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com

Bill Kimmerly uses a custom-made riddling tool to shake sediment to the bottom of each bottle.

Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi.

Contributing photographer

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TASTING RESULTS

affordable reds

RE D W I NES $30 AND UNDER

By Andy Perdue

E

ven high-end wine collectors love a bargain, and that’s what we set out to look for when we asked Pacific Northwest wineries to send us their red wines that retail for $30 or less.

Now $30 might not sound like a great bargain, but we see it as a threshold of sorts. Some wine lovers are willing to open a $30 bottle any night of the week, while others might only pop the cork (or twist the cap) on a red that is $20 or less.

For this issue of Wine Press Northwest, we asked wineries from Washington, Oregon and Idaho to send us their wines that retail for $30 or less, and we ended up with more than 300 examples, which our intrepid tasting panel worked through to discover what they liked.

To make this a little easier to navigate, we split our tasting into six categories: * Red blends: This was the largest category — by far — and 22

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • F a l l 2 0 1 6

Photos by Bob Brawdy included everything from traditional Bordeaux and Rhône blends to wines that had a dozen grape varieties included. * Bordeaux: These are wines labeled as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot or Carménère. * Pinot Noir: This was our only category focusing on a single grape variety. * Rhône: These are wines labeled as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre or Petite Sirah. * Italian: These were Italian varieties, including Sangiovese, Primitivo, Barbera and Nebbiolo. We included Zinfandel in this category, as it is genetically nearly identical to Primitivo (we also realize its origins are likely from the Dalmatian Coast, which is not in Italy). * Other varieties: We ended up with a lot of wines that didn’t neatly fit into another category, including Lemberger, Tempranillo, Baco Noir and Tannat.

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affordable reds Our judges for this tasting included: April Reddout, wine program director for the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center in Prosser, Wash.; Heather Unwin, wine marketing specialist and instructor at Washington State University and Walla Walla Community College; Hillary Sjolund, winemaker for Wine Boss in Richland, Wash.; Kristine Bono, tasting room manager for Goose Ridge Vineyards in Richland, Wash.; Richard Larsen, research winemaker for WSU; Brad

Smith, winemaking instructor for Yakima Valley Community College; Eric Zegzula, sommelier for Budd’s Broiler in Richland; Hank Sauer, longtime member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel; and Gregg McConnell, editor and publisher of Wine Press Northwest magazine.

Moderating the judging were Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; Eric Degerman, president and CEO of Great Northwest Wine; and Andy Perdue, editor

TA STING RESULTS

and publisher of Great Northwest Wine.

The judging took place at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

To make the most of this tasting, think about your spending threshold for wines you don’t mind opening on a regular basis, then scan through the list looking for wines that fit your budget.

Here are the results.

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sough after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Prices are suggested retail.

Washington’s Largest Selection of Wine, Spirits and Beer Under One Roof – at the Lowest Prices!

Total Wine & More® The selection is incredible.

Red blends are the most popular category of wine in the Pacific Northwest, and we tasted nearly 100 of them for this under-$30 tasting. Red blends give winemakers the flexibility to see how different grapes work together. Some are traditional (using Bordeaux or Rhône varieties, for example), while others might include a dozen grape varieties from multiple regions.

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TASTING RESULTS

red blends

T OP R E D B L EN DS $ 3 0 A N D L ES S Outstanding Robert Karl Cellars $22 2013 Claret, Horse Heaven Hills This Spokane winery has been earning gold medals for this wine for more than a decade, so it’s no surprise to see it at the top of our list of affordable red blends. It leads with Cabernet Sauvignon and provides aromas of clove, black pepper and black cherry, followed by big flavors of bittersweet chocolate, pomegranate and a hint of underlying earthiness. It’s all backed by fine-grained tannins that lead to a long, satisfying finish.

(1,500 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Apex Cellars $20 2013 Catalyst Red, Columbia Valley Apex has a history that stretches back to the 1980s and has always been associated with superb wines.

This Syrah-based blend opens with focused aromas of mint, oak, plum and forest floor, followed by approachable yet complex flavors of blueberry,

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W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 016

black olive and a creaminess on the midpalate. It provides many layers to explore.

(6,500 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $25 2013 GSM plus C, Columbia Valley Oregon winemaker Byron Dooley blended Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault to craft a classic Southern Rhône-style red blend. It unveils notes of sweet dried herbs, blackberry and plum on the nose, followed by luscious flavors of red and black currant and black tea. It’s all backed by firm tannins that will help it pair with grilled or roasted meats.

(347 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Dunham Cellars $19 2014 Three Legged Red, Washington This Cab-based blend is named for a winery dog that lost a leg in a fight. Dunham is based in Walla Walla and has long been known for crafting some of the best wines in Washington. This opens with pleasing aromas of mint, plum, vanilla and black-

berry, followed by velvety flavors of Marionberry, gooey brownie and raspberry jam. It’s all backed by taut tannins and harmonious acidity for a subtle and balanced finish.

(10,200 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Pondera Winery $30 2011 Salon Series, Horse Heaven Hills Pondera is based in Woodinville, Wash., and led with Syrah for this luscious red blend. It opens W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

redred blends TASTING RESULTS blends TASTING RESULTS

with inviting aromas of oak,ofdark ripe ripe Spangler ZoneZone Cellars Vineyards $28 $28 Convergence with inviting aromas oak, chocolate, dark chocolate, Convergence Cellars $29 $29 Spangler Vineyards plum plum and Christmas spices,spices, followed by flavors of of 20132013 Claret, Southern Oregon 20132013 Squall Line,Line, Red Red Mountain and Christmas followed by flavors Claret, Southern Oregon Squall Mountain dark, dark, rich, ripe It’s allIt’s backed by firm rich,fruit. ripe fruit. all backed byyet firm yet Umpqua ValleyValley winemaker Patrick Spangler put put Scott Scott Greenberg is the isman this WoodUmpqua winemaker Patrick Spangler Greenberg the behind man behind this Woodpliablepliable tannins that give a memorable tannins thatway givetoway to a memorable together this classic Bordeaux-style red leading winery.

For this blend,blend, he he together this classic Bordeaux-style red leading invilleinville winery.

ForBordeaux-style this Bordeaux-style finish.finish. with Cabernet Sauvignon.

It opens with aromas of ofleans leans heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon, and itand offers with Cabernet Sauvignon.

It opens with aromas heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon, it offers (125 cases; 14.2%14.2% alc.) alc.)mint, black cherry and blackberry, followed by (125 cases; of strawberry, cherrycherry and cocoa powder, mint, black cherry and blackberry, followed by aromas aromas of strawberry, and cocoa powder, flavors of Bing shavedshaved chocolate and dried by flavors of cherry cola, bittersweet of cherry, Bing cherry, chocolate and dried followed followed by flavors of cherry cola, bittersweet Brian Carter Cellars $24 $24 herbs.flavors Brian Carter Cellars It’s a well-balanced and well-crafted red. red. chocolate, blackberry and a and hintaof black cherry.cherry. herbs.

It’s a well-balanced and well-crafted chocolate, blackberry hint of black 20132013 Abracadabra, Columbia Valley Abracadabra, Columbia Valley (245 cases; 14.4%14.4% alc.) alc.)It’s allIt’s backed by intriguing dusty dusty tannins.

(245 cases; all backed by intriguing tannins.

Longtime Washington winemaker Brian Brian CarterCarter Longtime Washington winemaker (65 cases; 14% alc.)

(65 cases; 14% alc.) blended no fewer than 11 grape varieties, leading of Washington $30 $30 blended no fewer than 11 grape varieties, leading Jones Jones of Washington Best Buy with the Malbec.

The result is a complex Best Buy Barrel Select Red Red Blend, Wahluke withsturdy the sturdy Malbec.

The result is a complex 20122012 Barrel Select Blend, Wahluke red with of dusty minerality, cocoacocoa powder Wildhaven Winery $13 $13 red aromas with aromas of dusty minerality, powderSlope Wildhaven Winery Slope and plum, followed by big,bydark, focused black-black- Young Victor Palencia crafted this blend using 2014 Blazing Red, Columbia Valley and plum, followed big, dark, focused 2014 Blazing Red, Columbia Valley Young Victor Palencia crafted this blend using berry berry and ripe LayersLayers of spice andraspberry. ripe raspberry. of reveal spice reveal Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Syrah, and and This value label for WineWine in Seattle leads leads Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Syrah, This value labelPrecept for Precept in Seattle themselves on theonfinish, and it’s allit’s backed by firm themselves the finish, and all backed by firmthe combination worksworks beautifully.

It opens with with with Cabernet Sauvignon followed

by Syrah to to the combination beautifully.

It opens with Cabernet Sauvignon followed

by Syrah tannins. tannins. aromas of black currant, black black cherrycherry and blueberluscious red. Itred. provides aromas of black currant, and blueber-craft this craftrich, this dark, rich, dark, luscious It provides (1,700(1,700 cases; cases; 13.8%13.8% alc.) alc.)ry, followed by well-balanced flavors of ripe dark of raspberry jam, dark and black ry, followed by well-balanced flavors of ripe dark aromas aromas of raspberry jam, chocolate dark chocolate and black fruit. fruit.

Firm tannins give this some opportunity to to currant, followed by gorgeous flavorsflavors of cherry Firm tannins give this some opportunity currant, followed by gorgeous of cherry Thurston Wolfe $16 Thurston Wolfe $16 age orage pairorwith steak.steak. cola, strawberry and black tea. Plush tannins back back pair grilled with grilled cola, strawberry and black tea. Plush tannins 20132013 D.R. D.R. Wolfe's Family Red,Red, Columbia Wolfe's Family Columbia (546 cases; 14.2%14.2% alc.) alc.)up allup thealldelicious flavors.

(546 cases; the delicious flavors.

Valley Valley (6,000(6,000 cases; cases; 13.8%13.8% alc.) alc.)

WadeWade WolfeWolfe is oneisofone Washington’s truly great Cellars $29 $29 of Washington’s truly great Dunham Dunham Cellars winemakers, and heand expertly blended Zinfandel, LostLost River Winery Trutina, Columbia Valley $18 $18 winemakers, he expertly blended Zinfandel, 20132013 River Winery Trutina, Columbia Valley PetitePetite Sirah,Sirah, Lemberger and Syrah to craft racya racy This blend from Dunham Cellars in Walla Walla Western Red,Red, Columbia Valley Lemberger and Syrah to acraft Western Columbia Valley This blend from Dunham Cellars in Walla Walla 20132013 and approachable red. Itred. opens with complex and approachable It opens with complex uses equal parts parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, John Morgan crafted this Right uses equal Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Winemaker Winemaker John Morgan crafted this Right notes notes of blackberry, vanillavanilla and caramel, followed of blackberry, and caramel, followedalong along with awith bit of Malbec, Petit Verdot and and Bank-style blendblend from from Merlot, Cabernet Sauviga bit of Malbec, Petit Verdot Bank-style Merlot, Cabernet Sauvigby flavors of blackberry pie and It’s allIt’s all by flavors of blackberry pieplum. and plum.

Syrah.Syrah.

The resulting wine offers aromas of caraFranc.Franc.

It unveils aromas of of The resulting wine offers aromas of cara- non and nonCabernet and Cabernet It unveils aromas backed by well-managed tannins that give backed by well-managed tannins thatway givetoway to mel, mint currant, followed by thick, herbs,herbs, red cherry and pomegranate, fol- folmel, and mintblack and black currant, followed by thick, sweet sweet red cherry and pomegranate, a long,a long, smooth finish.finish. smooth densedense flavorsflavors of blackberry, cola, dark by flavors of milk and blackberry, of blackberry, by flavors of chocolate milk chocolate and blackberry, cola, chocolate dark chocolate lowedlowed (1,066(1,066 cases; cases; 14.5%14.5% alc.) alc.)and cedar. all backed by plush, well-managed tannins. and cedar. all backed by plush, well-managed tannins.

(8,300(8,300 cases; cases; 13.8%13.8% alc.) alc.)

(350 cases; 14.5%14.5% alc.) alc.)

(350 cases; W I N EW P RI N EE SP SR NEW. CN OW. M COM SS

F a l l 2F016 W i n•e W P ri e t west a l l 2•016 n se sPN r eosr st hNwoerst h

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TASTING RESULTS

red blends

Lodmell Cellars $28 NV Sublime, Columbia Valley Walla Walla winemaker Kristie Lodmell led with Merlot for this Bordeaux-style blend. It offers aromas of sweet blueberry, light toffee and black tea, followed by flavors of Bing cherry, huckleberry and black currant. Rich acidity and plush tannins shape this wine into a delicious and approachable red.

(228 cases; 15.2% alc.)

Coyote Canyon Winery $25 2011 Tres Cruces, Horse Heaven Hills The Andrews family owns a large vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills and a winery in the Yakima Valley town of Prosser. This is a Syrah-heavy blend that provides aromas of rose petals, black pepper, cured meat and blackberry, followed by flavors of blackberry, blueberry and a bit of black licorice. It’s a wonderfully complex red wine.

(454 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Bunnell Family Cellar $26 NV Wine o’Clock Snipes Creek Redd, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ron Bunnell owns and operates this winery in the Yakima Valley community of Prosser.

This Rhône-style red provides aromas of new leather, pomegranate and toasted coconut. On the palate, it offers flavors of creamy blackberry, blueberry and plum compote with a dusting of black pepper.

(198 cases; 14.5% alc.)

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Best Buy Coyote Canyon Winery $13 NV LOL Red Wine Fun Lot #1, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Justin Michaud blended 10 grape varieties — led by Mourvèdre — to craft this delicious and affordable red. Aromas of cured meat, black pepper and blackberry lead to flavors of black currant and plum. It’s all backed by elegant tannins.

(800 cases; 13.9% alc.)

D'Anu Wines $19 NV Red Table Wine, Oregon-Washington This Portland winery criss-crossed the Columbia River to gather the grapes for this delicious red wine. It’s an unusual blend of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir and Sangiovese — but it works.

Aromas of black cherry and blackberry lead to flavors of ripe dark fruit, along with black pepper and black licorice. It’s all backed by rich, juicy tannins.

(100 cases; 12.7% alc.)

Saviah Cellars $25 2012 The Jack Reserve Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley Owner Rich Funk makes his The Jack wines with the same style and care as his higher-priced Saviah wines, so these are tremendous opportunities. This is a big, rich, bold red that leans heavily on Ca-

bernet Sauvignon. On the nose, it shows off aromas of vanilla, plum and slate, followed by flavors of black cherry, plum and creamy blackberry jam.

It’s a beautifully balanced and approachable wine.

(294 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Best Buy College Cellars $15 2014 Scholarship Red, Walla Walla Valley Enology instructor Tim Donahue leads his students in the winemaking of this delicious and affordable blend that leads with Merlot and includes all six red Bordeaux varieties. Aromas of blackberry, caramel and vanilla lead to long, smooth flavors of blueberry and blackberry, all backed by careful tannin management.

(179 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy Mercer Canyons $14 2014 Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills Jessica Munnell crafts this value brand for Mercer Estates in Prosser — Wine Press Northwest magazine’s Washington Winery of the Year. This affordable and delicious red provides aromas of cherry and spicy blackberry, followed by flavors of coffee, dark chocolate and ripe dark fruit. It’s all backed by firm tannins.

(3,600 cases; 13.9% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

red blends TASTING RESULTS

Convergence Zone Cellars $29 2013 Virga, Red Mountain Nearly equal parts Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah make up this Southern Rhône-style blend from winemaker Scott Greenberg in Woodinville.

Aromas of mint, spicy oak and blackberry lead to flavors of black licorice, black currant and blackberry, all backed by assertive tannins. Through the long finish.

(115 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Cliff Creek Cellars $30 2011 Super Tuscan, Rogue Valley Longtime Oregon winemaker Joe Dobbes — now in his 30th vintage — crafted this wine for tiny Cliff Creek in Southern Oregon. It’s a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, a style found in the world-famous Super Tuscans of Italy.

This offers aromas of loganberry, strawberry and pomegranate, followed by flavors of red cherry, cranberry and strawberry. It’s all backed by bright acidity and moderate tannins.

(247 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Nine Hats Cellars $20 2014 Red Wine, Columbia Valley This sister project to highly regarded Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla has big fans because of its approachable prices. This is a fascinating blend that includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Mourvèdre. It opens with complex

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

aromas of blueberry and mint, followed by flavors of dark chocolate, blueberry and mint. It’s all backed by rich tannins.

(3,609 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Best Buy House Wine $10 2014 Red Blend, American Seven grapes went into this Precept-owned wine, leading with Merlot. Aromas of black currant, dried herbs and lavender lead to flavors of sweet blueberry, Marionberry and dried cranberry. It’s an off-dry wine that is backed by delicious fruit, good structure and a medium finish.

(15,000 cases; 13.1% alc.)

Excellent Barons Winery $22 2012 Petit Barone, Columbia Valley Longtime Washington winemaker Matthew Loso crafted this Merlot-leading blend for Barons, a Woodinville winery. Aromas of lavender, minerality and dark cherry lead to flavors of boysenberry, blackberry pie and a complex hint of tar.

(1,002 cases; 14.1% alc.)

EFESTE $30 2012 Final Final, Columbia Valley Winemaker Peter Devison leaned heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah for this delicious blend from

Woodinville. Aromas of mint, cherry and spicy oak lead to flavors of black raspberry, blueberry and dark chocolate. It’s all backed by firm tannins that balance all the fruit.

(2,970 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Colter’s Creek Winery $30 2013 Arrow Rim Red GSM, Idaho This luscious Rhône-style blend is from the recently approved Lewis-Clark Valley, an AVA that stretches across both sides of the Snake River in Idaho and Washington. This is a spicy wine with aromas of blackberry and game meats, followed by flavors of black pepper, cola, blackberry and mocha. It’s all backed by well-managed tannins.

(200 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Clearwater Canyon Cellars $23 2014 Renaissance Red, Lewis-Clark Valley Lewiston winemaker Coco Umiker made a mostly Bordeaux-style blend — with a bit of Syrah to add depth. The result is a wine with aromas of plum, blackberry and moist earth, followed by big, rich flavors of black currant and cola with a creamy midpalate and a smoky finish.

(475 cases; 14.2% alc.)

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red blends

Basel Cellars Estate Winery $25 2011 Claret, Columbia Valley Walla Walla winemaker Ned Morris crafted this Cab-heavy blend in a traditional Bordeaux style.

Aromas of cherry pipe tobacco, red currant and vanilla lead to juicy flavors of blueberry, black cherry and a hint of dark chocolate shavings. Firm yet pliable tannins back up the fruit in this sturdy wine.

(1,551 cases; 13.6% alc.)

Robert Karl Cellars $22 2012 Claret, Horse Heaven Hills Joe Gunselman is a Spokane doctor by day and winemaker by night. He leads with Cabernet Sauvignon for this blend, which is his signature red wine. Aromas of smoke, peppermint and red currant leads to flavors of sage and Bing cherry backed by bright acidity and plush tannins. The 2013 vintage of this wine topped the judging.

(1,500 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Ancestry Cellars $25 2012 Provocant, Columbia Valley Woodinville winemaker Justin Morin leaned heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (with a touch of Petit Verdot) to produce this small-lot red blend. Aromas of dusty blueberry, dried herbs and cedar lead to smooth, elegant flavors of huckleberry, blackberry and black olive. It’s all backed by velvety tannins.

(124 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Auclair Winery $26 2013 96 Cedars Red Wine, Red Mountain Charlie Auclair sources from some of Red Mountain’s best vineyards for his red wines, and this Merlot-Cab blend is a great example, thanks to aromas of sweet barrel spice, blueberry taffy and ripe cherry. On the palate, elegant flavors of cocoa, minerality, cherry and pomegranate are backed by smooth, rich tannins.

(312 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Stottle Winery $20 2013 Red, Columbia Valley Josh Stottlemyer is the winemaker behind this Lacey, Wash., producer. His blend of five grape varieties leads with Cabernet Sauvignon, leading to aromas of toasted oak, vanilla and blackberry. On the palate, this reveals flavors of cola and plum backed by supple tannins that lead to a lengthy finish.

(206 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Rain Shadow Cellars $18 2014 Leeward, Columbia Valley Tiny Coupeville, Wash., is on Whidbey Island. In addition to being able to catch a ferry to Port Townsend, now you can visit this new winery.

This is a Bordeaux-style blend that leads with Cabernet Sauvignon and unveils aromas of caramel, black cherry and oak, followed by bright, delicious flavors of spicy red and dark fruit backed by good acidity and mild tannins.

(900 cases; 14.5% alc.)

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FairWinds Winery $25 2009 Cab-Merlot, Yakima Valley Tucked on a backroad in the Olympic Peninsula town of Port Townsend is Micheal Cavett and FairWinds Winery. This delicious Bordeaux-style blend comes with some beautiful bottle age, which gives it fascinating complexity. Aromas of roasted coffee, cherry and dark chocolate lead to flavors of strawberry-rhubarb compote and red currant. It’s all backed by juicy acidity and resolved tannins.

(105 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Best Buy Nicola's Redmark $14 2013 Red, Columbia Valley This value-minded label is from Claar Cellars north of Pasco, Wash. Winemaker Joe Hudon blended six grape varieties — leading with Cabernet Sauvignon — to craft a wine with aromas of ripe strawberry, herbal tea and cocoa powder and round, plush flavors of black cherry and ripe plum.

(280 cases; 13.7% alc.)

College Cellars $25 2014 President’s Blend, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Tim Donahue and his students created this blend using all six red Bordeaux grapes. It opens with aromas of mint, blueberry and cherry pipe tobacco, followed by elegant flavors of black currant, blackberry and crushed dried herbs.

Approachable, chocolaty tannins give this a memorable farewell.

(50 cases; 14.6% alc.)

SuLei Cellars $18 2013 Roller Girl Jammer Red, Walla Walla County This Merlot-based blend supports the Walla Walla Sweets roller derby team, for whom co-owner Elaine Jomwe once skated. This is a delicious red with aromas and flavors of red cherry, pomegranate and dark chocolate, all backed by hard-hitting tannins.

(13.9% alc.)

Nelms Road $25 2015 Red Wine, Washington Nelms Road is the second label for Walla Walla’s Woodward Canyon Winery. Winemaker Kevin Mott utilizes high-quality grapes from younger vines for this sturdy Merlot-based blend. Aromas of cola, black currant and floral notes give way to flavors of Van cherry and pomegranate. It’s all backed by bright acidity and sturdy tannins.

(1,152 cases; 14.4% alc.)

Best Buy Indian Creek Winery $14 2014 Star Garnet, Snake River Valley This popular Merlot-leading blend comes from one of Idaho’s oldest and most respected producers. Aromas of pipe tobacco, spice and huckleberry lead to flavors of cherry cola, blackberry pie and cedar. It’s all backed by round, approachable tannins.

(800 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Eternal Wines $25 2014 Rocket Man Red, Columbia Valley Brad Binko, a 2016 Walla Walla Community College wine program graduate, already is making his mark with this Walla Walla airport winery.

This Merlot-based blend won a gold medal at the 2016 Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition and scored well in this competition, too. Aromas of white chocolate, sweet tomato and lavender give way to flavors of black currant, blackberry and Bing cherry. It’s all backed by juicy acidity and mild tannins.

(42 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy Wildhaven Winery $15 2014 Untamed Wild Red, Columbia Valley Hal Landvoigt handles winemaking for this Precept Wine brand. He leads with Merlot and Syrah to craft a red with aromas of blueberry taffy, cinnamon toast and white pepper, followed by flavors of blueberry and light vanilla cream.

(2,400 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Pondera Winery $26 2013 Vintners Reserve Cuvée, Columbia Valley Winemaker Shane Howard produced this Bordeaux-style blend using grapes primarily from acclaimed Stillwater Creek Vineyard in Washington’s Frenchman Hills. The result is a delicious red with aromas of cherry, tar and oregano, followed by flavors of huckleberry, Earl Grey tea and Bing cherry. It’s all wrapped within firm tannins.

(334 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Pondera Winery $19 2012 Cuvée, Columbia Valley This Woodinville winery has crafted a delicious and affordable Right Bank red blend with aromas of mocha, cedar, plum and boysenberry. On the palate, this is a delicious and plush wine loaded with flavors of dark fruit, complex spices and a hint of dark chocolate. It’s all backed by approachable tannins.

(310 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Hamilton Cellars $28 2009 Lowell Lee Tribute Red, Columbia Valley This Cabernet Sauvignon-leading blend pays tribute to the fathers of Stacie and Russ Hamilton, both of whom served in the U.S. military. Aromas of spicy oak, caramel and warm red fruit lead to plush flavors of blueberry, black tea and dark chocolate.

(283 cases; 15.14% alc.)

Best Buy Maryhill Winery $15 2013 Winemaker's Red, Columbia Valley This is — by far — Maryhill winemaker Richard Batchelor’s largest-production wine, and it has gained acclaim around the globe not only for its price but also for its quality. This example reveals aromas of coffee, plum and spice, followed by W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

red blends TASTING RESULTS flavors of black cherry, blueberry and black pepper.

(46,125 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Elevation Cellars $20 2011 Jammin', Red Mountain Woodinville winemaker Steven Stuart crafted this classic Bordeaux-style red with a heavy reliance upon Cabernet Sauvignon. It provides aromas of sweet dried plum, toast and fig, followed by big, mouth-filling flavors of pomegranate, plum and cola. It’s a big, plush wine that will be perfect with grilled or roasted meats.

(350 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Kitzke Cellars $24 2012 Janaina Sensacio, Columbia Valley This Italian-inspired red blend leads with Cabernet Sauvignon but also includes big doses of Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. Complex aromas of barbecue sauce, sweet red bell pepper and strawberry lead to flavors of pomegranate, red currant and mint. It’s all backed by medium tannins and bright acidity.

(193 cases; 15.1% alc.)

Skylite Cellars $25 2012 Soireé, Columbia Valley Walla Walla Valley winemaker Greg Matiko leads with Cabernet Sauvignon to produce this suave red. Aromas of plum, cedar and espresso lead to flavors of supple black fruit backed by velvety tannins and great length. Enjoy with pork chops.

(300 cases; 13.8% alc.)

L'Ecole No 41 $23 2014 Frenchtown, Columbia Valley Owner Marty Clubb and his winemaking team crafted this red blend leading with Merlot. It offers aromas of mint, spice and blackberry, followed by flavors of blueberry, blackberry and a hint of cocoa powder. It’s all backed by rich tannins for a long finish.

(5,000 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Convergence Zone Cellars $26 2013 Storm Front, Red Mountain Woodinville winemaker Scott Greenberg used four Bordeaux varieties for this tasty red blend. It opens with aromas that remind us of strolling through a North African spice market, as well as Bing cherry and cocoa powder. On the palate, it’s beautifully balanced between the rich dark fruit, bright acidity and firm tannins.

(185 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Saviah Cellars $18 2014 The Jack Red Wine, Columbia Valley This Merlot-heavy red from Walla Walla Valley winemaker Rich Funk is a delicious wine at a nice price. Aromas of black fruit, black licorice and chocolate lead to flavors of cherry, plum and huckleberry. It’s all backed by balanced tannins.

(4,165 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Harbinger Winery $16 NV Dynamo Red, Columbia Valley Sara Gagnon owns the northwestern-most winery W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

in the contiguous United States, as she is along Highway 101 just west of Port Angeles. She leads with Syrah in this delicious blend, and it is in full evidence, thanks to aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruit, fresh-out-of-the-oven brownies and a plush midpalate. It’s a big wine that will pair well with grilled meats or roasts.

(350 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $20 2013 The Spaniard, Columbia Valley Longtime Washington winemaker Wade Wolfe blended Grenache, Tempranillo and Syrah for this delicious red. Aromas of pomegranate, red currant and rose petal, followed by elegant flavors of black currant and ripe raspberry. Chocolaty tannins give this a graceful and memorable farewell.

(250 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery $24 NV Stormy Mountain Red, Columbia Valley Pinot Noir is an unusual blending grape, but winemaker Oscar Castillo makes it work, pairing the finicky red with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The result is a complex red with aromas and flavors of raspberry, mushroom, forest floor and black cherry. It’s all backed by firm yet juicy tannins.

(1,500 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Latah Creek Wine Cellars $20 NV Monarch Red, Columbia Valley This longtime Spokane winery is led by the fatherdaughter winemaking team of Mike Conway and Natalie Conway-Barnes. They started with Merlot for this delicious blend that opens with aromas of Marionberry and cherry tomato, followed by flavors of red currant, blueberry and pie cherry.

Lingering acidity and firm tannins give this all necessary structure.

(682 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $28 2013 Estate Bellissima Rossa, Lake Chelan Longtime winemaker Shane Collins starts with Syrah in this blend, then adds four other grape varieties. The resulting wine is loaded with aromas of plum, spice, blackberry and chocolate, followed by round, plush flavors of ripe dark fruit backed by velvety tannins.

(537 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Barili Cellars $20 2013 Double Barrel Red, Columbia Valley Based in Spokane, Barili is led by winemakers Russ Feist and Gary Hustad. This Syrah-based blend offers aromas of oak, plum and cocoa powder, followed by flavors of ripe blackberry and dark chocolate. A bold midpalate is backed by ap-

Helix by Reininger $21 2013 Pomatia, Columbia Valley Veteran Walla Walla winemaker Chuck Reininger works with Columbia Valley grapes for his Helix label, and this blend focuses on Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s a delicious combination with alluring aromas of blackberry jam on toast, spice and a hint of oak, followed by flavors of roasted coffee, ripe plum and molasses. It’s a big, rich wine with balanced tannins.

(1,550 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Best Buy Indian Creek Winery $14 2012 Star Garnet, Snake River Valley This nicely priced Bordeaux-style blend from winemaker Mike McClure is delicious and complex.

Aromas of black currant, minerality and black olive are followed by big, rich flavors of espresso, ripe plum and black cherry. Moderate tannins provide all the needed structure for this everyday red.

(450 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Best Buy Kelso $10 NV Red Table Wine, Columbia Valley Claar Cellars winemaker Joe Hudon blended seven grape varieties — leading with Merlot — for this delicious and nicely priced red blend. Aromas of blackberry, purple lavender and black pepper give way to flavors of blackberry, pomegranate and sage. Its mild tannins give this youthful approachability.

(840 cases; 13.7% alc.)

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TASTING RESULTS

red blends

proachable tannins for a memorable finish.

(100 cases; 14% alc.)

Harbinger Winery $27 2011 El Jefé, Rattlesnake Hills Winemaker Sara Gagnon’s take on the classic Southern Rhône blend is heavy on Syrah. It opens with notes of blackberry, plum and cured meats, followed by rich flavors of blueberry, blackberry, black olive and black tea. The firm tannins are kept in check by the abundant fruit in the finish.

(193 cases; 14%% alc.)

Westport Winery $29 2013 Jetty Cat, Columbia Valley Coastal winemaker Dana Roberts led with Cabernet Franc in this delicious New World blend.

Aromas of purple and blue fruits meld with notes of dried salami give way to bold, rich and focused flavors of plum and blueberry.

(420 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Hamilton Cellars $28 2009 Bona Vita, Columbia Valley This Red Mountain winery focuses on Malbec, and this blend leads with the grape most closely associated with Argentina. This red from winemaker Charlie Hoppes opens with aromas of black cherry, black pepper and crushed dried herbs, followed by flavors of rich dark fruit and dark chocolate.

(380 cases; 14.8% alc.)

H/H Estates $25 2010 Michael Andrews Red, Horse Heaven Hills This Spanish-inspired blend includes Tempranillo and Garnacha (the Spanish version of Grenache), and winemaker John Gabriel relied on estate grapes from Coyote Canyon Vineyard. Aromas of smoke, cherry and cured meats lead to flavors of blackberry and cherry backed by big tannins.

(432 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Colter’s Creek Winery $22 2013 Koos Koos Kia, Idaho Lewis-Clark Valley winemaker Melissa Sanborn crafted this delicious red from Bordeaux varieties and leads with Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of blackberry, black cherry and mint lead to flavors of black tea, dark chocolate and blackberry. It’s all backed by well-managed tannins.

(370 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Best Buy Three Rivers Winery $14 2014 River's Red, Columbia Valley Longtime winemaker Holly Turner blended six grapes, leading with Cabernet Sauvignon, for this affordable red blend. Aromas of oak, black currant and cola lead to bold, luscious flavors of ripe plum, blueberry and dark chocolate. Richly structured

tannins prop up the fruit throughout.

(3,655 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Two Mountain Winery $18 NV Hidden Horse Red Blend No. 13, Rattlesnake Hills Winemaker Matt Rawn uses estate grapes for this nonvintage blend, leading with Cabernet Sauvignon. It opens with aromas of dusty cherry and pipe tobacco, followed by flavors of plum and dark chocolate. Firm tannins and lingering acidity provide all the necessary structure.

(2,985 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Seven of Heart s $25 2013 Tradition, Columbia Valley Byron Dooley owns and operates this Carlton, Ore., winery, and he led with Merlot for this superb red blend. Aromas of cedar smoke, cherry tobacco and raspberry lead to flavors of red currant, raspberry and cranberry. It’s reminiscent of a delicious, well-made Bordeaux.

(273 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Blooms Winery $22 2013 Chamant, Rattlesnake Hills Whidbey Island winemaker Ken Bloom crafted this Syrah-based blend using grapes from the warm Rattlesnake Hills. It is filled with aromas and

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red blends TASTING RESULTS flavors of mint, blackberry, plum and boysenberry.

It’s all backed by bright acidity and plush tannins.

Enjoy this with braised meats or spaghetti and meatballs.

(130 cases; 14% alc.)

Cabernet Sauvignon, and it shows off aromas and flavors of blackstrap molasses, blackberry and dark chocolate. Its big, bold fruit balances out the round, plush tannins.

(650 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Northwest Cellars $19 2013 Serenade, Columbia Valley Kirkland, Wash., vintner Bob Delf and winemaker Robert Smasne combined forces to craft this delicious Merlot-based red. This opens with aromas of spicy oak, blackberry and a hint of cherry, followed by flavors that lean toward red fruit, including cherry and raspberry. It’s all backed by nicely balanced tannins.

(2,744 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Gård Vintners $22 2014 Lawrence Vineyard Don Isidro, Columbia Valley Winemaker Aryn Morell has come to love the grapes grown in the Frenchman Hills area of Washington’s Columbia Valley, and it shows with this Cab-based blend. Aromas of cocoa powder, black cherry and mint lead to rich flavors of plum, blackberry and dark chocolate.

(1,104 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Blooms Winery $28 2012 Melange, Washington Here’s a fascinating blend from winemaker Ken Bloom, a wine that is 50% Merlot and even splits of Petit Verdot and Malbec. The resulting wine offers aromas and flavors of clove, allspice, cherry, Marionberry and pomegranate. It’s a complex wine with beautiful balance through the lengthy finish.

(96 cases; 14% alc.)

Best Buy O•S Winery $15 2014 Red, Columbia Valley This south Seattle winery uses grapes from Sheridan Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills and leads with Merlot for this affordable red. Aromas of black fruit and oak lead to flavors of blackberry and blueberry, all backed with minerally tannins.

This is a delicious wine to enjoy any night of the week.

(1,250 cases; 14.4% alc.)

The Conqueror $30 2012 Red Blend, Horse Heaven Hills Seattle-based Precept Wine continues to create a labels that fill various marketplace niches. This Syrah-based red blend opens with aromas of oak, black truffle, plum and fresh-baked brownie, followed by plush flavors of blackberry, plum, espresso and vanilla. It’s richly structured through the lengthy finish.

(500 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Coyote Canyon Winery $20 2012 Tres Cruces, Horse Heaven Hills This Southern Rhône-style red is nearly even parts Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, and it makes for a delicious wine. Classic aromas of black pepper, blackberry and blueberry give way to flavors of plum, black currant and boysenberry, all backed by richly structured tannins.

(295 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Abacela $18 NV Vintner’s Blend #16, Umpqua Valley Southern Oregon winemaker Andrew Wenzl led with Tempranillo — what else might we expect from the kings of Northwest Tempranillo? — for this delicious red. Aromas of cherry, caramel and spice jump out of the glass. On the palate, it’s a big wine with flavors of red cherry and ripe strawberry. Drink now or enjoy for at least the next half-decade.

(2,486 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Dumas Station $24 2013 Cow Catcher Red, Walla Walla Valley Winemaker Jay DeWitt makes the wine for this producer in tiny Dayton, Wash., a community north of Walla Walla. Nearly half of this blend is

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TRI-CITIES WINE SOCIETY & THREE RIVERS CONVENTION CENTER presents...

SAT | NOV 12 | 7:00PM

$60 $65

In advance At the door

Tickets available at ticketmaster.com and at The Toyota Center Box Office

WINE TASTING SILENT AUCTION HORS D’OEUVRES JUDGED WINE COMPETITION A selection of Craft Beers will also be available.

Tickets on sale Sept 1st, 2016 Visit ThreeRiversConventionCenter.com for more information

bordeaux bordeauxTASTING TASTING RESULTS RESULTS

TTOP OPBBOORRDEAUX DEAUX VARIE VARIETTI IEESS$$3300OR ORLLES ESSS BB Y YA A NN DD Y YP P EE RR DD UU EE this category, included wine ForFor this category, wewe included anyany wine labeled Bordeaux varielabeled as as oneone of of thethe sixsix redred Bordeaux varieties: ties: Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon, Merlot, Merlot, Cabernet Cabernet Franc, Franc, Malbec, Malbec, Petit Petit Verdot Verdot and and Carménère.

Carménère.

Bordeaux-style Bordeaux-style blends, blends, however, however, went went into into thethe “Blend” “Blend” category. category.

black black cherry, cherry, black black teatea and and blackberry, blackberry, allall supported supported byby a smooth a smooth midpalate midpalate and and modermoderateate tannins. tannins.

Enjoy Enjoy this this wine wine with with grilled grilled meats meats or or lasagna. lasagna.

(122 (122 cases; cases; 12.7% 12.7% alc.) alc.)

Gård Gård Vintners Vintners $30 $30 2013 2013 Lawrence Lawrence Vineyards Vineyards Malbec, Malbec, Columbia Columbia Valley Valley Westport Westport Winery Winery $28 $28 Winemaker Winemaker Aryn Aryn Morell Morell used used grapes grapes from from 2013 2013 Mermaid Mermaid Merlot, Merlot, Columbia Columbia ValValthe the fascinating fascinating Frenchman Frenchman Hills Hills area area near near the the leyley town town of of Royal Royal City, City, Wash., Wash., forfor this this superb superb Coastal Coastal winemaker winemaker Dana Dana Roberts Roberts is comis com- Malbec.

Malbec.

It opens It opens with with hints hints of of sweet sweet spice, spice, inging into into hishis own, own, thanks thanks in in part part to to working working ripe ripe summer summer blackberry blackberry and and a hint a hint of of oak, oak, with with some some of of thethe best best grapes grapes in in thethe state. state.

This This followed followed byby flavors flavors of of black black currant, currant, blueberblueberdelicious delicious Merlot Merlot opens opens with with aromas aromas of of black black ry ry and and smoke, smoke, with with spice spice lingering lingering in in thethe licorice, licorice, ripe ripe strawberry, strawberry, Bing Bing cherry cherry and and finish. finish.

It’sIt’s a truly a truly luscious luscious drink. drink. vanilla. vanilla.

OnOn thethe palate, palate, it offers it offers upup flavors flavors of of (270 (270 cases; cases; 13.7% 13.7% alc.) alc.)

Outstanding Outstanding

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TASTING TASTINGRESULTS RESULTS

Indian Indian Creek Creek Winery Winery $22 $22 2013 2013 My My Best Best Friend Friend Malbec, Malbec, Snake Snake River River Valley Valley Mike Mike McClure McClure learned learned winemaking winemaking from from hishis father-in-law, father-in-law, Bill Bill Stowe, Stowe, who who founded founded this this Nampa, Nampa, Idaho, Idaho, winery winery in in 1982.

1982.

This This delicious delicious and and affordable affordable Malbec Malbec provides provides aromas aromas ofof fresh fresh dill, dill, blackberry blackberry and and moist moist earthiness, earthiness, followed followed byby flavors flavors ofof loganberry, loganberry, blackberry blackberry piepie and and dark dark chocolate. chocolate.

It It unveils unveils a a rich, rich, round round mouth mouth feel feel and and a lingering a lingering finish. finish.

(150 (150 cases; cases; 13% 13% alc.) alc.)

Westport Westport Winery Winery $28 $28 2014 2014 Charterboat Charterboat Chick Chick Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon, Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills Hills This This little little winery winery near near thethe rugged rugged WashWashington ington coast coast is is showing showing itsits prowess prowess with with Bordeaux Bordeaux varieties, varieties, landing landing two two amid amid ourour toptop five five Bordeaux Bordeaux wines wines in in this this judging. judging.

Aromas Aromas coffee, roasted meat, violet ofof coffee, roasted meat, violet and and black black curcurrant rant give give way way toto flavors flavors ofof blackberry, blackberry, cedar cedar and and black black pepper. pepper.

AA rich rich mouth mouth feel feel leads leads toto a lengthy a lengthy and and elegant elegant finish. finish.

(196 (196 cases; cases; 14% 14% alc.) alc.)

Best Best Buy Buy Sagelands Sagelands Vineyard Vineyard $10 $10 2014 2014 Merlot, Merlot, Columbia Columbia Valley Valley Now Now owned owned byby Precept Precept Wine, Wine, this this longlongtime time Washington Washington winery winery hashas been been known known forfor producing producing delicious delicious wines wines at at affordable affordable prices. prices.

This This value-minded value-minded Merlot Merlot opens opens with with aromas aromas ofof black black cherry, cherry, pomegranate pomegranate and and vanilla, vanilla, followed followed byby flavors flavors ofof rich rich redred fruit fruit backed backed byby nicely nicely integrated integrated oak oak and and powerful powerful tannins. tannins.

(3,404 (3,404 cases; cases; 13.98% 13.98% alc.) alc.)

Wildhaven Wildhaven Winery Winery $20 $20 2014 2014 Reserve Reserve Merlot, Merlot, Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills Hills Here’s Here’s another another delicious delicious redred from from thethe team team at at Precept Precept Wine Wine in in Seattle.

Seattle.

Winemaker Winemaker Hal Hal Landvoigt Landvoigt crafted crafted this this beauty beauty using using grapes grapes from from thethe remote remote Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills, Hills, and and thethe resulting resulting wine wine opens opens with with aromas aromas ofof sweet sweet dark dark fruit fruit compote compote and and hints hints ofof oak, oak, followed followed byby flavors flavors ofof ripe ripe plum, plum, blackberry blackberry and and dark dark chocolate. chocolate.

It It allall ends ends with with a long, a long, juicy juicy finish. finish.

(1,200 (1,200 cases; cases; 14.8% 14.8% alc.) alc.)

Maryhill Maryhill Winery Winery $22 $22 2013 2013 Merlot, Merlot, Columbia Columbia Valley Valley Winemaker Winemaker Richard Richard Batchelor Batchelor leads leads our our 2015 2015 Pacific Pacific Northwest Northwest Winery Winery ofof thethe Year Year with with another another delicious delicious Merlot.

Merlot.

This This opens opens with with aromas aromas ofof blueberry blueberry jam jam onon toast, toast, notes notes ofof coffee coffee and and Marionberry.

Marionberry.

AA tiptip ofof thethe glass glass brings brings flavors flavors ofof mint, mint, coffee, coffee, pomegranate pomegranate and and coffee. coffee.

Delectable Delectable acidity acidity and and bright bright tannins tannins liftlift thethe fruit fruit throughout. throughout.

(1,063 (1,063 cases; cases; 14.5% 14.5% alc.) alc.)

Page Page Cellars Cellars $29 $29 2011 2011 Cabernet Cabernet Franc, Franc, Red Red Mountain Mountain Woodinville Woodinville winemaker winemaker James James Page Page loves loves Red Red Mountain Mountain fruit, fruit, and and it it shows shows in in our our top-rated top-rated Cabernet Cabernet Franc.

Franc.

Aromas Aromas ofof blackblackberry berry cobbler, cobbler, mint mint and and rose rose petals petals lead lead toto flavors flavors ofof Marionberry Marionberry and and underlying underlying dried dried herbs. herbs.

This This is is more more restrained restrained in in style, style, almost almost Old Old World.

World.

And And that that provides provides superb superb balance balance and and thethe potential potential forfor cellaring cellaring forfor five five years years oror more. more.

(240 (240 cases; cases; 14.2% 14.2% alc.) alc.)

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Zhoo Zhoo $19 2014 Merlot, Snake River Valley This is a playful second label for Hells Canyon Winery in the Sunnyslope Wine District of Idaho’s Snake River Valley. This Merlot opens with complex aromas of spice, cedar and blueberry, followed by bold flavors of vanilla, blackberry and black tea. It’s a rich, chewy wine with well-managed tannins and plenty of length.

(130 cases; 14% alc.)

Saviah Cellars $30 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Richard Funk is a quiet, understated guy who goes about his business making some of the best wines in Washington. This big Cab is laden with aromas of black cherry, vanilla and mint, followed by flavors of blueberry, black currant and oak. Velvety tannins back up all the fruit, and the finish is long and memorable.

(1,020 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Convergence Zone Cellars $26 2013 Downburst Cabernet Franc, Red Mountain Owner/winemaker Scott Greenberg pulled W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

in grapes from some of Red Mountain’s best vineyards, including Heart of the Hill, Shaw and Scooteney Flats. The result is a complex red with aromas of strawberry, black cherry and spice, followed by approachable flavors of cherry vanilla cola, raspberry freezer jam and plum. The modest tannins make it approachable in its youth.

(65 cases; 14.4% alc.)

Viscon Cellars $24 2012 Unforeseen, Yakima Valley Ben Viscon runs this small winery in West Seattle, north of the Fauntleroy ferry dock.

This is a Cabernet Franc that is a classic from first whiff through the complex finish. Aromas of violet, rose petal and Earl Grey tea lead to lively flavors of cedar, raspberry and black cherry. This wine emphasizes elegance over power.

(125 cases; 13.2% alc.)

College Cellars $20 2014 Malbec, Walla Walla Valley Tim Donahue and his students produce a lot of different wines at Walla Walla Community College, and this luscious Malbec comes from Stan Clarke Vineyard. It’s a plush red

with aromas of ripe blueberry and late summer blackberry. On the palate, flavors of blueberry, black pepper and spice are backed by chocolaty tannins.

(49 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Gordon Estate $21 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This longtime Washington winery is on a bluff overlooking the Snake River near Ice Harbor Dam. This wine uses estate grapes and offers aromas of toast, kitchen spices, dark plum and black pepper. On the palate, it’s a rich, focused red with flavors of blackberry, vanilla, pie spices and molasses. Bold tannins provide ample structure throughout.

(2,500 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Kitzke Cellars $30 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This up-and-coming winery in Richland, Wash., has Charlie Hoppes and his team at Wine Boss crafting its wine. This Cab uses estate grapes grown on Candy Mountain and opens with complex aromas of blackberry, slate and black pepper. On the palate, it’s a F a l l 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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rich, broad wine with flavors of cola, plum, molasses and boysenberry. It’s beautifully balanced with pretty fruit.

(196 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $30 2013 Upland Vineyard Conglomerate Cabernet Sauvignon, Snipes Mountain Since the 1970s, Wade Wolfe has been an intricate part of the Washington wine scene, and he loves the grapes he gets from historic Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain near the Yakima Valley town of Sunnyside. This reveals aromas of subtle dark fruit, cocoa powder, dried herbs and spice, followed by round, fleshy flavors of plum, mint and smoke. Everything here is in harmony.

(25 cases; 14.5% alc.)

College Cellars $25 2014 Clarke Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Stan Clarke was a legend in the Washington wine industry as a winemaker, a grape

grower, a writer and a teacher. His last job before he died in 2007 was leading the next generation of winemakers at Walla Walla Community College. This Cab from his namesake vineyard provides aromas of darkroasted coffee, caramel, plum and cola, followed by flavors of maple syrup, black currant and vanilla. It’s all backed by bright acidity and approachable tannins.

(154 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy House Wine $10 2015 Dark Cabernet Sauvignon, American The famous Charles Smith launched this popular label many years ago, then sold the brand to Seattle-based Precept Wine. Here is a big, dark Cab that is priced for everyday enjoyment. Aromas of black licorice, espresso and plum give way to flavors of blackberry jam, cola and floral notes. Juicy acidity and modest tannins give this plenty of delicious length.

(3,000 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery $28 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley Blending grapes from Lake Chelan and the Yakima Valley, winemaker Oscar Castillo has crafted a superb Malbec. It opens with aromas of crushed leaf, blackberry and spice, followed by elegant yet powerful flavors of blueberry, dark plum and blackberry. Bright acidity and sturdy tannins provide ample backbone. Pair with grilled meats.

(397 cases; 13.6% alc.)

Hamilton Cellars $28 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This well-aged Cab uses grapes from three top vineyards: Stillwater, Gamache and Discovery, and the result is a sensual and rewarding red wine. Aromas of lavender, chai spices and huckleberry lead to flavors of black currant, black olive and dark chocolate. The rich midpalate gives way to a beautifully structured finish.

(286 cases; 14.9% alc.)

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bordeaux TASTING RESULTS Excellent Best Buy Mercer Canyons $14 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Here is a nicely priced Cabernet Sauvignon from our 2016 Washington Winery of the Year. This uses estate grapes in the remote Horse Heaven Hills. Aromas of cherry pipe tobacco, spice and huckleberry lead to flavors of black currant, vanilla and dark chocolate.

It’s a plush, round wine with a juicy finish.

(4,029 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $30 2013 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills Longtime Washington winemaker Wade Wolfe used grapes from acclaimed McKinley Springs Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft this marvelous Malbec. Aromas of caramel, blackberry and oak give way to flavors of black olive, boysenberry and mint.

A creamy midpalate leads to a bright finish with modest tannins.

(50 cases; 14.5% alc.)

L’Ecole No 41 $28 2013 Merlot, Columbia Valley Mike Sharon has been the winemaker at this longtime Walla Walla Valley producer for the past decade. This delicious Merlot opens with aromas of white pepper and ripe berry, followed by flavors of strawberry jam, blueberry and pomegranate, all backed by bright acidity and sturdy tannins.

(4,800 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy Canoe Ridge Vineyard $15 2014 The Expedition Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills This historic Walla Walla winery uses estate grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills to craft a delicious and affordable Merlot. It’s a classic with aromas of red cherry, plum and mild oak, followed by flavors of dark choco-

late, blackberry and purple plum. Sturdy tannins give this ample structure and plenty of length.

(7,500 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $16 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley Bill Stowe has operated his winery near the town of Nampa, Idaho, for nearly 35 years.

This rich and affordable Cab provides aromas of dusty oak, cocoa powder and plum, followed by rich, dark, focused flavors of plum and boysenberry.

(400 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Best Buy Ross Andrew Winery $15 2014 Huntsman Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ross Mickel worked at such luminaries as Betz and DeLille before launching his eponymous winery in Woodinville.

He’s since relocated to Walla Walla, where he

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crafts delicious and affordable wines. This unveils aromas of dusty raspberry and red currant, followed by flavors of cherry, raspberry and a hint of oak backed by richly structured tannins.

(4,000 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $30 2013 Petit Verdot, Horse Heaven Hills We do not see a lot of Petit Verdots as stand alone wines, so this is a great example to try. It opens with aromas of pipe tobacco, black currant and hints of tar, followed by opulent flavors of blueberry and huckleberry.

Juicy acidity and sturdy tannins give this structure and elegance.

(26 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $22 2013 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley This Goldendale, Wash., winery has been crafting Cabernet Franc for many years, and this is another delicious example. Aromas of cherry, vanilla and dark plum lead to flavors of strawberry-rhubarb pie and black currant.

Its juicy, fruit-forward structure gives it a silky feel through the lengthy finish.

(854 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Harbinger Winery $26 2012 Malbec, Wahluke Slope Olympic Peninsula winemaker Sara Gagnon loves grapes from the warm Wahluke Slope, and this Malbec is a delicious example.

Aromas of spice, black pepper and blackberry are backed by flavors of blueberry, Marionberry and a dash of black pepper in the finish. It’s a pleasing, complex wine with firm acidity and a long finish.

(237 cases; 14% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $20 2013 Angiolina Vineyard Malbec, Yakima Valley Seattle attorney Paul Beveridge has moved much of his winemaking operation to the Naches Heights near Yakima and crafted this vineyard-designated Malbec from the Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of blackberry, black cherry and hints of oak, followed by rich

flavors of dark fruit, particularly boysenberry.

(13.4% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $29 2013 Estate Malbec, Lake Chelan Shane Collins shows his winemaking versatility on the south shore of Lake Chelan with this delicious Malbec. It opens with aromas of vanilla, spice, coffee and blackberry, which lead to flavors of ripe plum and black pepper.

Rich acidity and smooth tannins lead to a lengthy and elegant finish.

(220 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Forgeron Cellars $30 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley French-born and -trained winemaker Marie-Eve Gilla came to Washington nearly a quarter-century ago and has been producing delicious and graceful wines since. This opulent red opens with aromas of spicy oak, dark cherry, blueberry and pencil shavings, followed by flavors of Marionberry, vanilla and blueberry. Beautifully managed tannins lead to an elegant finish.

(626 cases; 14.3% alc.)

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bordeaux TASTING RESULTS Indian Creek Winery $16 2014 Merlot, Snake River Valley Merlot has long been a solid grape variety for the high-elevation vineyards of the Snake River Valley. This is a delicious example, thanks to aromas of cherry Hostess Pie, vanilla and raspberry jam, followed by flavors of bold, bright red fruit. The bright acidity and balanced tannins are everything we would expect from winemaker Mike McClure, who trained with his father-in-law.

(400 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Silvan RIdge Winery $28 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rogue Valley Silvan Ridge is one of Oregon’s oldest wineries, with operations dating back to the 1970s. It reached into Southern Oregon for this wine, which provides aromas of chocolate-covered pomegranate, slate and dark plum, followed by flavors of elderberry, Saskatoon berry and Bing cherry. It’s all backed by approachable tannins.

(300 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Jones of Washington $30 2013 Carménère, Wahluke Slope Carménère is the rarest of red Bordeaux varieties and has only been grown in Washington for about 20 years. This example from the arid Wahluke Slope provides classic aromas of dried herbs, spice, blackberry and vanilla, followed by smoky flavors of mint, black pepper and blackberry. It’s all backed by juicy acidity and mild tannins.

(330 cases; 14.3% alc.)

College Cellars $20 2014 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley The students and staff of Walla Walla Community College have crafted a superb Cab Franc using estate grapes. This provides complex aromas of Moroccan spices and smoked cherry, followed by flavors of raspberry, pomegranate and blueberry. Mouthfilling tannins back up the ample fruit.

(62 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $29 2014 Cabernet Franc, Columbia Valley Oregon winemaker Byron Dooley enjoys making a broad array of wines from both sides of the Columbia River. This luscious Cab Franc opens with aromas of cherry and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

dried strawberry, followed by big, juicy flavors of black cherry, pomegranate and red currant. It’s all backed by classic dried herbs.

(72 cases; 13% alc.)

Best Buy Drumheller Wines $12 2014 Merlot, Columbia Valley This is a new brand for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates that is primarily available only in restaurants but also can be purchased online.

Aromas of oak, blackberry and spice lead to flavors of ripe dark fruit, including blueberry and plum. Nicely balanced tannins make this an easy-drinking, food-friendly red.

(11,000 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Best Buy Ridge Crest $14 2014 Merlot, Columbia Valley This value-minded brand from the Claar Wine Group north of Pasco, Wash., is a great find at a terrific price. This Merlot offers aromas of smoke, blackberry and leather, followed by flavors of blueberry, slate and a hint of dark chocolate on the lengthy finish.

(360 cases; 13.5% alc.)

FairWinds Winery $26 2005 Merlot, Yakima Valley By far the oldest wine in this tasting, this 11-year-old Merlot from a Port Townsend, Wash., winery is holding up well. Aromas of black cherry, oak spice and black licorice lead to flavors of black olive, smoke and boysenberry. Resolved tannins give this an elegant mouth feel and finish.

(105 cases; 14% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $25 2012 The Teacher Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Wade Wolfe honors Stan Clarke with this wine. Clarke was Wolfe’s best friend and longtime colleague, and he was an elementary school teacher in the Yakima Valley in addition to his winemaking career prior to his death in 2007. This Cab is dark and focused, thanks to aromas and flavors of blackstrap molasses, cola, black pepper and dried herbs.

(750 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $25 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

This is Maryhill’s mainstream Cab — and one of many it makes at its showcase Goldendale, Wash., winery. This opens with aromas of black currant jam, cherry tomato and sweet herbs, followed by juicy, elegant flavors of lingonberry, raspberry and black cherry.

(2,053 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Best Buy Jones of Washington $15 2012 Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope Victor Palencia oversees this operation and continues to prove that he’s among the most talented and versatile young winemakers in Washington. This delicious Cab shows off aromas and flavors of strawberry-rhubarb compote and mint, followed by flavors of red currant, raspberry and pie cherry.

(7,000 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Best Buy Sagelands Vineyard $10 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This fresh, young Cab from one of Washington’s older producers unveils complex aromas of maple syrup, dark plum and black cherry, followed by rich, bold flavors of cocoa powder, black currant and vanilla. It’s all backed by supple tannins.

(4,173 cases; 14.18% alc.)

Best Buy David James Winery $15 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Owned by Seattle’s Precept Wine, this new brand is named after Dave Minick, a longtime Yakima Valley grape grower and now the company’s director of vineyards. It’s an expressive red with aromas and flavors of spicy oak, espresso, cola and plum. Everything is backed up by richly structured tannins.

(2,000 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Best Buy Washington Hills $9 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington Here’s another great bargain from Precept Wine, a sub-$10 Cab that is rich and enjoyable. Aromas of vanilla, molasses and ripe dark plum lead to bold flavors of boysenberry, black currant, dark chocolate and oak.

(4,000 cases; 13.5% alc.)

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Mercer Estates $19 2014 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills This Prosser, Wash., winery is looking to make its mark with this variety, and it’s great to see a Washington Malbec below $20. This opens with classic aromas of black pepper, blackberry and plum, followed by flavors of molasses, blackberry and spice. It’s all backed by rich acidity and balanced tannins.

(862 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $28 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Walla Walla winemaker Chuck Reininger brought in the grapes for this Merlot from Stillwater and Bacchus vineyards. The result is an elegant wine with aromas of black cherry, raspberry jam and mocha, followed by flavors of bright red fruit backed with moderate tannins and bright acidity.

(790 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Page Cellars $29 2012 Lick My Lips Merlot, Red Mountain Longtime Woodinville winemaker James Page loves Red Mountain grapes, and this Merlot reveals his prowess with them. Aromas of barrel spice, molasses, vanilla and blueberry give way to approachable flavors of rich red fruit backed by a smooth midpalate and plush tannins.

(300 cases; 14% alc.)

Nelms Road $25 2014 Nelms Road Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington Since 1981, Cabernet Sauvignon has been Rick Small’s most important wine at Woodward Canyon Winery, and this nicely priced second label is no slouch. Aromas of coffee, oak spice and Marionberry give way to rich, dark flavors of blackberry, black currant and dark chocolate.

(4,236 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $28 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Winemaker Chuck Reininger manages to get into some of the state’s top vineyards. In this case, it’s Phinny Hill in the Horse Heaven Hills and StoneTree on the Wahluke Slope. Aromas of dried herbs, black currant and hints of dried cranberry lead to flavors of

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smoky peppercorns and black currant with a luxurious mouth feel.

(858 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Lake Chelan Winery $28 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Winemaker Oscar Castillo blended grapes from Lake Chelan and the Yakima Valley to craft this delicious Cab. Opulent aromas of smoky dark fruit, dates and chocolate are followed by powerful flavors of black currant, blackberry and mocha.

(595 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $25 2013 The Teacher Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills This Cab comes from a vintage that was the first of three consecutive ultra-hot years that have tested winemakers’ skills. This example provides aromas of black currant, California peppercorns and toasted oak, followed by pleasing flavors of red currant, dried cranberry and ripe plum.

(688 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Harbinger Winery $30 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon , Columbia Valley Olympic Peninsula winemaker Sara Gagnon added a touch of Cabernet Franc and Merlot to this Cab to provide balance and depth. The result is a complex wine with aromas of mint, black pepper and blackberry, followed by rich flavors of blueberry and black cherry with black tea tannins in the finish.

(147 cases; 14% alc.)

Claar Cellars $22 2013 White Bluffs Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Using estate grapes high atop the White Bluffs overlooking the Columbia River, winemaker Joe Hudon has created a luscious Cab. Aromas of toasty oak, blackberry and blueberry give way to flavors of red cherry, blueberry and Baker’s chocolate. It’s all backed by rich tannins.

(109 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Best Buy Drumheller Wines $12 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley

Winemaker Tim Jones runs the Drumheller program for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, and he has crafted a deliciously affordable Cab here. Aromas of blueberry jam on toast, sweet herbs and a hint of jasmine lead to flavors of plum and blueberry. It’s all backed by explosive tannins on the finish.

(15,000 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Wildhaven Winery $20 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This delicious young Cab comes from Precept Wine in Seattle, produced by Hal Landvoigt, the company’s director of winemaking. Aromas of Marionberry, orange oil and cinnamon give way to flavors of huckleberry, vanilla and a bit of oak. Mild tannins give this youthful approachability.

(1,500 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Hells Canyon Winery $30 2012 Artists Conservation Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley Steve Robertson’s vineyard is one of the top plantings in the Sunnyslope Wine District.

This Cab from the stellar 2012 vintage opens with intriguing aromas of dried strawberry, raspberry and pink peppercorns, followed by opulent flavors of creamy cherry and botanical spices.

(172 cases; 13.9% alc.)

College Cellars $24 2014 Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley Petit Verdot is often the forgotten red Bordeaux grape, rarely taking center stage.

But in Washington, we’re seeing it more often. This example offers aromas and flavors of black licorice, lavender, pomegranate and coffee. It’s all backed by bright acidity and tannins through the medium finish.

(75 cases; 14.9% alc.)

O•S Winery $25 2013 Sonas Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley Winemaker Scott Greer brought in grapes from Sheridan Vineyards for this tasty Cabernet Franc. It opens with aromas of cherry, raspberry and black pepper, followed by flavors of blackberry, raspberry and blueberry.

It’s all backed by creamy tannins.

(400 cases; 14.1% alc.)

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bordeaux TASTING RESULTS Ledger David $29 2013 Cabernet Franc, Rogue Valley Linda Donovan, Southern Oregon’s winemaker extraordinaire, has produced a delicious Cabernet Franc from estate grapes.

Aromas of blackberry, cherry and underlying earthiness lead to flavors of blueberry and pomegranate that are backed by impressive structure and balance.

(234 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Silvan Ridge Winery $22 2013 Malbec, Rogue Valley This Eugene, Ore., winery dips into the warm Rogue Valley of Southern Oregon to craft this superb Malbec. Aromas of blackberry and spice lead to flavors of blueberry and loganberry. Bright acidity and modest tannins provide beautiful balance.

(800 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Best Buy Mercer Canyons $14 2014 Malbec, Horse Heaven Hills A sub-$15 Malbec from Washington is a great find, and the quality of this wine competes well with Argentine imports. Aromas of chocolate, black licorice and blackberry give way to flavors of plum, boysenberry and black pepper. Snappy acidity leads to a delicious finish.

(123 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Elevation Cellars $25 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Woodinville winemaker Steven Stuart used grapes from acclaimed Stillwater Creek Vineyards to put together this tasty Merlot. Inviting aromas of red cherry and plum are followed by flavors of Rainier cherry and red currant with just a hint of fresh sage and cocoa powder on the finish.

(400 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Kitzke Cellars $20 2014 Upsidedown Merlot , Columbia Valley Seth Kitzke crafted this Merlot for his parents’ winery with the playful name that thumbs its nose at a certain Merlot-drubbing film. Aromas of smoke, strawberry jam and brown sugar lead into flavors of red plum, black olive and black tea. It’s all backed by assertive tannins.

(280 cases; 13.7% alc.)

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College Cellars $22 2014 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley Here’s a yummy, drink-now red from the team of instructors and students at Walla Walla Community College. Aromas of sweet cherry, cinnamon and mild oak give way to flavors of Rainier cherry and fresh strawberry.

The tannins are especially well managed.

(84 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $28 2011 Merlot, Columbia Valley Using grapes from Stillwater, Weinbau and Bacchus vineyards, Chuck Reininger has produced a delicious Merlot with aromas and flavors of smoky blueberry, Bing cherry and black pepper. Medium tannins provide a all the structure necessary.

(719 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Mercer Estates $19 2013 Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Jessica Munnell continues to craft some of Washington’s best reds. This delicious Merlot opens with aromas of smoked cherry tomato, dried strawberry and tar, followed by flavors of raspberry and Bing cherry. Medium tannins give this a memorable finish.

(872 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Abacela $24 2013 Merlot, Umpqua Valley One of the few mainstream grapes grown at this Roseburg, Ore., winery, Merlot has long been an important part of the program at Abacela. This offers aromas and flavors of pomegranate, pink peppercorns and ripe tomato. Bright acidity and assertive tannins provide ample structure.

(598 cases; 13.2% alc.)

Jones of Washington $30 2012 Jack's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley This delicious Cab pays homage to Jack Jones, the patriarch of this winery who died in 2015. Winemaker Victor Palencia’s effort results in a Cab with aromas of moist earth, toast and grilled black fruit, followed by flavors of pie cherry and red currant. Refined tannins give this a rich farewell.

(658 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Waterbrook Winery $16 2014 Vintner's Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley This delicious and affordable Cab from the Walla Walla team at Precept Wine opens with aromas of slate, plum and black tea, followed by focused flavors of blackberry jam, molasses, spice and a hint of black olive. It’s an elegant wine throughout.

(1,197 cases; 14.01% alc.)

Alder Ridge $16 2014 Six Prong Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Alder Ridge is an important vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills that stretches down to the Columbia River to the south. Both the planting and the brand are owned by Precept Wine in Seattle, and this nicely priced Cab offers aromas and flavors of sarsaparilla, mocha, black licorice and ripe fruit. It’s a rich, complex red from start to finish.

(1,474 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Best Buy Ross Andrew Winery $15 2013 Glaze Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Longtime Woodinville, Wash., winemaker Ross Andrew Mickel joined the Precept team and produces this consistently delicious and affordable Cab. Aromas of oak spice, minerality and blackberry give way to plush flavors of dark chocolate, blackberry and black team.

It’s a rich, up-front wine.

(2,000 cases; 13.2% alc.)

College Cellars $20 2014 Carménère, Walla Walla Valley The rare Carménère grape was first planted in the Walla Walla Valley when it came to the United States about 20 years ago. This example offers aromas and flavors of espresso, spicy vanilla and blackberry, followed by flavors of black pepper, boysenberry and sweet herbs.

(135 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $22 2013 Malbec, Columbia Valley Winemaker Richard Batchelor works with more than two-dozen grape varieties, and he seems to thrive with all of them. This Malbec reveals aromas and flavors of molasses, shaved chocolate and blackberry, as well as hints of roasted almond in the finish.

(751 cases; 13.5% alc.)

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Latah Creek Wine Cellars $16 2012 Merlot, Wahluke Slope The Conway family launched this Spokane winery more than 30 years ago and has long leaned on grapes from the arid and remote Wahluke Slope. This tasty Merlot provides aromas and flavors of loganberry, spicy moist earth and red plum, as well as notes of blueberry and blackberry on the finish.

(550 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Best Buy The Leader Wine Co. $15 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Here’s a delicious and affordable Cab from a young producer. Aromas of Bing cherry, dusty plum and lilac give way to succulent flavors of huckleberry, cranberry and rosewater. It’s all backed by elegant tannins.

(2,500 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Barili Cellars $22 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Spokane winemakers Russ Feist and Gary Hustad teamed up to craft this tasty Cab. Aromas and flavors of sweet pie cherry, dark plum, chocolate and even a hint of fig are backed by firm tannins through the lengthy and complex finish.

(45 cases; 14% alc.)

Gordon Estate $24 2014 Merlot, Columbia Valley This has long been the signature grape for one of Washington’s oldest wineries. This opens with smoky aromas of toast, black cherry and chocolate, followed by clean, smooth flavors of Rainier cherry and pomegranate. It’s all backed by supple tannins.

(2,500 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards $28 2013 Cabernet Franc, Southern Oregon Roseburg vintner Patrick Spangler has turned his namesake winery into one of the best in Southern Oregon. This Cab Franc unveils aromas and flavors of cherry pipe tobacco, pomegranate and tart cherry. It’s all backed by big tannins.

(295 cases; 13.9% alc.)

D'Anu Wines $25 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Portland winemaker Joe Williams stayed in Oregon for this Cab by bringing in grapes from Seven Hills Vineyard in the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley. Aromas and flavors of black pepper, black cherry and blueberry are backed by juicy acidity. This would be perfect with a grilled New York steak.

(100 cases; 13.12% alc.)

Northwest Cellars $16 2013 Merlot, Yakima Valley Yakima Valley native Robert Smasne has a magical touch with Washington wine grapes, and here’s another great example of his work.

Aromas of Royal Anne cherry and plum are followed by flavors of pie cherry and blueberry. It’s all backed by sturdy tannins.

(812 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $16 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Snake River Valley This affordable Cab from Idaho’s primary wine region is a good example of what can come from these high-elevation vineyards.

Aromas of black currant, minerality and black olive lead to lean, focused flavors of black olive and ripe plum. It’s all backed by elegant tannins through the moderate finish.

(500 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Mercer Estates $19 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Using estate grapes, winemaker Jessica Munnell has put together a delicious and affordable Cab. Classic aromas of spice, vanilla, mint and black cherry lead to bold flavors of blackberry, Bing cherry and blueberry.

Ample acidity and rich tannins round out this complex red.

(4,987 cases; 14.1% alc.)

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Season Cellars $30 2012 Malbec, Southern Oregon The Henry family is royalty in Southern Oregon wine country, and Season is a project of Scott Henry IV. This delicious Malbec offers aromas and flavors of loganberry, blackberry and red currant, all wrapped in supple tannins. A bit of minerality shows up in the finish.

(252 cases; 13.8% alc.)

O•S Winery $25 2013 Sonas Merlot, Yakima Valley Winemaker Scott Greer brought in grapes from acclaimed Sheridan Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills district of the Yakima Valley for this tasty Merlot. Aromas and flavors of smoky oak, blackberry, spice and a hint of vanilla are backed by plush tannins and rich acidity.

(400 cases; 14.4% alc.)

Saviah Cellars $18 2013 The Jack Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley The Jack label is a tool for Saviah owner Richard Funk to elevate his best barrels to his top wines. But The Jack wines are no slouches. This reveals aromas and flavors of warm spices, ripe dark berry and cigar box, all backed by expertly managed tannins.

(3,682 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Two Mountain Winery $22 2013 Merlot, Yakima Valley Rattlesnake Hills winemaker Matt Rawn crafted this Merlot with a bit of Cab, Cab Franc and Malbec blended in. The result is a delicious wine with aromas and flavors of black pepper, blackberry and red currant.

Rich tannins provide all the necessary structure.

(625 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Best Buy Ridge Crest $14 2014 White Bluffs Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Using estate grapes north of Pasco, Wash., winemaker Joe Hudon has produced a valueminded Cab for the Claar Wine Group with aromas and flavors of blueberry, chocolate and ripe plum, all backed by bold tannins that give way to a juicy finish.

(406 cases; 13.5% alc.)

For complete results visit winepressnw.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

pinot pinotnoir noirTASTING TASTINGRESULTS RESULTS

BE B ESST T NNW W PPIINNOT OT NOIR NOIR PPRIC R I CE E DD $$3300 OR OR LLES ESSS BBYYAANNDDYYPPEERRDDUUEE Thiswas wasthe themost mostfun funcategory categorytotojudge judge This becausePinot PinotNoir Noirhas hasa reputation a reputationofofcarrycarrybecause inginga price a pricetagtagthat thatoften oftenexceeds exceeds$30. $30.It’sIt’s neither neithereasy easynor norinexpensive inexpensivetotomake makePinot Pinot Noir NoirininOregon, Oregon,sosoprices pricescan canquickly quicklyescaescalate. late.We Wewere werethrilled thrilledtotoreceive receivenearly nearly4040 wines winesthat thatfitfitour ourparameters. parameters.

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(12,000 (12,000cases; cases;13.7% 13.7%alc.) alc.)

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Bradley BradleyVineyards Vineyards $28 $28 2012 2012Pinot PinotNoir, Noir,Elkton ElktonOregon Oregon This Thisdelicious deliciousPinot PinotNoir Noiris isa tribute a tributetoto founder founderJohn JohnBradley, Bradley,who whodied diedininearly early2014.

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Oregon.This Thiswine wineis isloaded loadedwith withracy racyfruit, fruit, from fromthe thearomas aromasofofBing Bingcherry, cherry,blueberry blueberry and anddusty dustyminerality mineralitytotothe theflavors flavorsofofraspraspF aFl la l2l 016 2 016• •W W i n ienP e rPe rsessN s oNrot hr twhewset s t

4 34 3

TA STING RESULTS

pinot noir

berry, pomegranate and tart cherry. The acidity is sturdy yet juicy, and a hint of oak comes through in the finish.

(146 cases; 15% alc.)

Panther Creek Cellars $30 2014 Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Tony Rynders, one of Oregon’s most acclaimed winemakers, now heads up the program for this historic brand, and he blended Pinot Noir from seven vineyards to create this masterpiece. Complex aromas of moist earth, black raspberry and plum leads to elegant flavors of rich red fruit, focusing on plum and raspberry. The gentle mouth feel and velvety tannins help make this a wine that overdelivers for the price.

(1,904 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Firesteed $18 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Howard Rossbach has been in the wine game for 40 years and created Firesteed more than 20 years ago. Since then, it has consistently delivered great quality at fair prices.

His winemaker, Bryan Croft, crafted this delicious and classic Oregon Pinot Noir with aromas of cherry, spice and licorice, followed by racy flavors of tart cherry, strawberry and red currant. The structure is all about acidity, with tannin playing an important supporting role in the lengthy finish.

(58,150 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Bradley Vineyards $25 2010 Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley The late John Bradley crafted this nicely aging Pinot Noir from estate grapes in what now is the Elkton Oregon AVA, which is within the Umpqua Valley in Southern Oregon. It’s showing beautifully, thanks to aromas of forest floor, a hint of smokiness, cherry and blueberry. On the palate, savory acidity backs up the flavors of red and blue fruits and warm spices on the finish.

(170 cases; 14.2% alc.)

of tar. On the palate, flavors of elderberry, blueberry and shaved chocolate are backed by approachable tannins and bright acidity. It’s an elegant and delicious Oregon-style Pinot Noir.

(600 cases; 14% alc.)

Excellent

Oregon winemaker Jason Bull produced a wine with aromas of cherry, raspberry and purple lavender, followed by flavors of ripe strawberry and pomegranate backed by ample tannins and lingering acidity in the finish.

(623 cases; 13% alc.)

Cardwell Hill Cellars $24 2013 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Dan Chapel runs this winery west of Corvallis, Ore., and has produced consistently superb wines since launching in 2003. This delicious and affordable Pinot Noir provides aromas of bright strawberry, a hint of oak and violet, followed by smooth flavors of red plum, cherry and raspberry through the lengthy finish.

(1,573 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Deer Creek Vineyards $20 2014 Pinot Noir, Oregon This small winery southwest of Grants Pass, Ore., relied on winemaking from Brian Gruber and Herb Quady to develop this delicious Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of red plum, ripe cherry and forest floor, followed by rich, round flavors of raspberry and even a hint of blackberry. The plush tannins emphasize elegance over power, and the hint of dusty minerality offers a nice touch of complexity in the finish.

(560 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $24 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Carlton, Ore., winemaker Byron Dooley crafted this delicious Pinot Noir during one of the warmest vintages in Oregon history.

He managed to create a wine that reveals the complex nature of the grape, starting with aromas of black truffle, moist earth and raspberry. On the palate, it shows off flavors of raspberry, lavender, white pepper and an intriguing hint of earthiness. It’s all backed by plush tannins and elegant acidity.

(987 cases; 13.2% alc.)

Willamette Valley Vineyards $22 2015 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley The youngest Pinot Noir in our tasting is produced annually by this Turner, Ore., winery in a fresh, drink-it-now style. It opens with aromas of soft cherry, a hint of oak and ripe raspberry, followed by flavors of cherry, milk chocolate and strawberry jam. Bright acidity and mild tannins provide lovely structure. Enjoy with pork roast or grilled salmon.

(36,000 cases; 14.1% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $24 2013 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This winery near Forest Grove, Ore., in the northern Willamette Valley used estate grapes to craft this lovely Pinot Noir. Longtime

Elk Cove Vineyards $30 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell crafts this wine from estate vineyards in the northern Willamette Valley. This is his mainstream Pinot Noir, and it provides approachable aromas of ripe raspberry and

Willful Wine Co. $26 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Portland winemaker Pam Walden launched Willful Wine in 2011 and hasn’t looked back.

This superb Pinot Noir comes primarily from Pommard clone grapes in the Eola-Amity Hills. The result includes aromas of cherry, dried cranberry, vanilla and an intriguing hint 44

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

pinot noir TASTING RESULTS Rainier cherry, followed by round flavors of cherry, strawberry and cranberry. The justright tannins add a touch of grip to the finish, providing ample structure and length.

(18,000 cases; 13.5% alc.)

touch of cocoa powder. On the palate, it offers pleasing flavors of blueberry, cranberry and a hint of black truffle. A beautiful mouth feel leads to a lovely finish.

(2,510 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Pike Road Wines $20 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Pike Road is the new project of Elk Cove winemaker Adam Campbell. It’s a nicely priced brand with its own tasting room in downtown Carlton, Ore. This inaugural effort emphasizes aromas of black cherry, cocoa powder and oak. On the palate, bright acidity pushes flavors of strawberry, raspberry and pomegranate to the forefront.

(8,500 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Rainstorm Winery $17 2013 Pinot Noir, Oregon This nicely priced and refreshingly delicious Pinot Noir is the work of Nicolas Quillè, the head winemaker for Pacific Rim in Washington. Aromas of smoky cherry, pomegranate and fresh herbs lead to flavors of Bing cherry, cranberry and a touch of spiciness. Bright acidity and moderate tannins provide all the needed structure.

(14,122 cases; 13% alc.)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $22 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Lisa and Scott Neal launched their McMinnville, Ore., winery in 1998 and have been crafting superb wines since. This delicious and affordable Pinot Noir opens with aromas of Rainier cherry, blueberry and a

Best Buy Kirkland Signature $15 2014 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Sarah Cabot produced this wine for Costco on behalf of Seattle-based Precept Wine, which is one of the larger

vineyard owners in Oregon. This is a delicious Pinot Noir at a great price, and it reveals aromas of plum, black cherry and vanilla. The flavors of raspberry and red cherry are backed by firm tannins through the solid finish.

(8,000 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard $22 2013 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Winemaker Scott Neal uses grapes primarily from the McMinnville AVA. It’s a classic wine from that hilly area of the northern Willamette Valley, revealing darker-toned fruit such as black raspberry and plum. Notes of moist earth and shaved chocolate offer complexity, and the round mouth feel gives it youthful approachability.

(1,685 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Please see page 57

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

rhône rhôneTASTING TASTING RESULTS RESULTS

TTOOPPRRHHÔÔNNEEVA VAR RIETIES IETIES $$3300OORRLLEESSSS BB Y YA A NN DD Y YP P EE RR DD UU EE Red wine grape varieties traditionally Red wine grape varieties traditionally grown France’s warm Rhône Valley grown in in France’s warm Rhône Valley areare making making some some of of thethe most most sensational sensational wines wines in in thethe Pacific Pacific Northwest.

Northwest.

According According to to thethe Rhône Rhône Rangers Rangers (a (a California-based California-based advocacy advocacy group), group), there there areare 1111 redred Rhône Rhône varieties. varieties.

The The most most prominent prominent wewe willwill find find in in thethe NorthNorthwest areare Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, west Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, though Petite Sirah, Cinsault and Counoise though Petite Sirah, Cinsault and Counoise also areare starting to to emerge. also starting emerge.

flavors flavors of of blackberry, blackberry, plum plum and and coffee. coffee.

It’sIt’s allall packed packed into into a wine a wine with with a rich a rich midpalate, midpalate, a a silky silky mouth mouth feelfeel and and a balanced a balanced and and memoramemorableble finish. finish.

(2,050 (2,050 cases; cases; 14.7% 14.7% alc.) alc.)

Maryhill Maryhill Winery Winery $24 $24 2013 2013 Syrah, Syrah, Columbia Columbia Valley Valley This This producer producer near near Goldendale, Goldendale, Wash., Wash., waswas ourour 2015 2015 Pacific Pacific Northwest Northwest Winery Winery of of thethe Year Year forfor many many reasons, reasons, thethe most most important important of of which which is the is the remarkably remarkably consistent consistent quality quality of of wines. wines.

And And here’s here’s a great a great example example of of a a Saviah Saviah Cellars Cellars $18$18 thethe delicious delicious and and affordable affordable Syrah Syrah from from Maryhill.

Maryhill.

2014 2014 The The Jack Jack Syrah, Syrah, Columbia Columbia Valley Valley Aromas Aromas of of blackberry, blackberry, spice, spice, cedar cedar and and plum plum Saviah Saviah Cellars Cellars owner/winemaker owner/winemaker Richard Richard lead lead to to lovely lovely flavors flavors of of blueberry, blueberry, MarionberMarionberFunk Funk added added a little a little Grenache, Grenache, Mourvèdre Mourvèdre and and ry ry and and black black tea.tea.

The The tannins tannins areare plush plush and and Tempranillo Tempranillo to to this this Syrah Syrah to to turn turn it into it into a a approachable, approachable, leading leading to to a long, a long, enjoyable enjoyable complete complete and and superb superb wine wine —— and and at at a stuna stun- finish. finish. ning ning price. price.

Aromas Aromas of of toasted toasted oak, oak, vanilla, vanilla, (508 (508 cases; cases; 14.6% 14.6% alc.) alc.) spice spice and and black black cherry cherry give give way way to to voluptuous voluptuous

Outstanding Outstanding

W IW N EI N PE RPER SE SS NSW. NC W.OCMO M

Colter’s Colter’s Creek Creek Winery Winery $17$17 2014 2014 Syrah, Syrah, Snake Snake River River Valley Valley Winemaker Winemaker Melissa Melissa Sanborn Sanborn and and husband/ husband/ viticulturist viticulturist Mike Mike Pearson Pearson areare rising rising stars stars in in thethe Idaho Idaho wine wine industry, industry, producing producing wines wines of of grace grace and and power power from from their their own own vines vines in in thethe Lewis-Clark Lewis-Clark Valley Valley new new Lewiston.

Lewiston.

They They also also show show what what they they cancan dodo with with fruit fruit from from thethe Snake Snake River River Valley Valley to to thethe south south with with this this delicious delicious wine. wine.

It provides It provides aromas aromas and and flavors flavors of of blackberry, blackberry, plum plum and and black black pepper. pepper.

AA juicy juicy F aF l l a2l l016 2 016 • W • iW n ei nPer ePsr se sNsoN r tohrw t hew s te s t

4747

TASTING RESULTS

rhône Cliff Creek Cellars $25 2009 Syrah, Southern Oregon Joe Dobbes has been making this wine since its inaugural 2003 vintage, and Cliff Creek has consistently been one of the best Syrah producers in Southern Oregon. This example opens with aromas of spice, caramel, cured meat and ripe plum, followed by flavors of blackberry, black currant and a hint of coffee. Surprisingly bright acidity gives it a long, juicy finish.

(729 cases; 13.68% alc.)

mouth feel leads to a finish that is as creamy as crème brûlée.

(800 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $28 2012 Syrah, Columbia Valley Veteran winemaker Chuck Reininger brought in grapes from two of the state’s best vineyards: Phinny Hill in the Horse Heaven Hills and StoneTree on the Wahluke Slope.

This resulted in a stunning Syrah with sensational aromas of Bing cherry, forest floor, allspice and game meats. On the palate, it is a rich, silky wine with juicy acidity and sensual flavors of blackberry jam and cured meats.

(807 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $20 2013 Petite Sirah, Horse Heaven Hills Wade Wolfe has been crafting Petite Sirah for more than a decade, and he has a great style dialed in using grapes from Zephyr Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills.

This remarkable example is dark and rich with aromas of black licorice, coffee and plum, followed by flavors of blackberry, black currant and espresso. Wolfe manages to rein in this variety’s renowned tannins to create a finish that is sultry and harmonious.

(268 cases; 14.5% alc.)

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Purple Star Wines $30 2009 Silver Syrah, Columbia Valley Kyle Johnson was the winemaker for shortlived Olsen Estates in Prosser, earning acclaim for his superb wines. Today, he and his wife, Amy, own their own Yakima Valley winery and buy grapes from the Olsen brothers. He continues to craft great wines from this fruit.

This example offers aromas of cola, blueberry, lavender and white pepper, followed by flavors of pomegranate and Marionberry. A silky mouth feel gives way to a juicy finish.

(112 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Coyote Canyon Winery $25 2011 Grenache, Horse Heaven Hills Using estate grapes, this Yakima Valley winery has created a delicious example of what can be done with Washington Grenache. Aromas of herbs, cured meats and pomegranate lead to plush flavors of blackberry and boysenberry. Juicy tannins back up the bright, rich fruit, giving this a lengthy and memorable farewell.

(200 cases; 14.3% alc.)

College Cellars $26 2014 Cockburn Ranch Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley The instructors and students from Walla Walla Community College brought in grapes from Zerba Cellars in Milton-Freewater, Ore., for this delicious Syrah. Aromas of Marionberry, fresh plum and cookie dough lead to focused flavors of huckleberry, dark chocolate and espresso. It’s a rich, concentrated wine that will pair well with lamb or beef.

(93 cases; 14.8% alc.)

Excellent Convergence Zone Cellars $29 2013 Mistral Grenache, Red Mountain Woodinville, Wash., winemaker Scott Greenberg brought in his grapes from two great Red Mountain vineyards: Ciel du Cheval and Heart of the Hill. The resulting wine provides aromas of pomegranate and spice, followed by flavors of blackberry, black pepper and pomegranate, all backed by rich tannins and solid acidity.

(135 cases; 15.3% alc.)

Barili Cellars $24 2013 Dineen Vineyards Syrah, Rattlesnake Hills The Rattlesnake Hills is a sub-AVA of the Yakima Valley that is moderately warmer than most of the rest of the region. It’s certainly a fascinating area for growing Syrah, as this example from a Spokane boutique producer reflects. Aromas of smoky black fruit give way to flavors of blackberry jam on toast and a hint of wild herbs and cured meats. It’s a rich, round wine with bright acidity and mild tannins.

(40 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Best Buy Ridge Crest $14 2014 White Bluffs Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley It’s hard to miss when a wine is this good at this price. Ridge Crest is a label for Claar Wine Group, and it tends to deliver quality and value. Aromas of blackberry jam and coffee lead to massive flavors of roasted meats, blackberry Hostess Pie and ripe plum.

It’s loaded with muscular fruit backed by rich, chocolaty tannins.

(362 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Westport Winery $28 2013 Surfer, Horse Heaven Hills Dana Roberts brings in Syrah from acclaimed Discovery, a young vineyard that dramatically overlooks the Columbia River in the southern Horse Heaven Hills. This is a delicious Côte-Rôtie-style Syrah with aromas of roasted meat, graphite and blackberry that lead to massive flavors of ripe dark fruit, including blackberry, plum and fig. It’s a classic warm-climate Washington Syrah.

(104 cases; 14% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

rhône TASTING RESULTS Jones of Washington $17 2013 Estate Vineyards Syrah, Wahluke Slope The western end of the Wahluke Slope might just be the sweet spot in Washington for Syrah. It’s warm, it has great soil, and the ripening is even. This is a delicious example, with aromas of Marionberry pie, lavender, spice and Graham cracker. On the palate, flavors of black currant, pomegranate and blueberry provide rich fruit notes, which are backed by chocolaty tannins through the lengthy finish.

(1,723 cases; 14.7% alc.)

Valley View Winery $24 2012 Anna Maria Syrah, Applegate Valley The relatively high-elevation vineyards in Southern Oregon’s Applegate Valley can make for interesting Syrahs because they can hang a little longer into harvest. This is a great example, as it exhibits aromas of blackberry, black pepper and spice, followed by complex flavors of black olive, plum and blueberry. It’s all backed by elegant tannins through the lengthy finish.

(600 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $18 2014 Syrah, Snake River Valley Syrah and other Rhône varieties appear as if they could well develop into some of the most important grapes in the Snake River Valley’s high-elevation vineyards. This is a delicious and affordable example with aromas and flavors of new leather, moist earth, blackberry and even huckleberry. Mild tannins give this a drink-now mouth feel.

(200 cases; 13.9% alc.)

grapes for this rich and silky Syrah from Bosma Vineyards in the Rattlesnake Hills section of the Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of oak, black licorice, black olive and blackberry. On the palate, it provides flavors of plum, vanilla and blackberry, all backed by velvety tannins.

(155 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $20 2014 Crawford Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley Crawford is a longtime Yakima Valley vineyard that is a short distance north of downtown Prosser, Wash. It is the backbone for many Washington wines. This Syrah shows classic cool-climate notes that are not unlike Côte-Rôtie in the Northern Rhône Valley. Aromas of venison, spice and loganberry lead to flavors of black tea, dark chocolate, blueberry and dark plum. It’s an elegant wine with plenty of substance.

(13.8% alc.)

Kitzke Cellars $28 2013 Syrah, Red Mountain Winemaker Charlie Hoppes produced this delicious Syrah using grapes from warm Red Mountain in the eastern Yakima Valley. It opens with aromas of spicy oak, vanilla and blackberry, followed by rich, round flavors of plum, blueberry and black tea. Well-managed tannins lead to a long, elegant finish.

(71 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Purple Star Wines $19 2013 Syrah, Columbia Valley Winemaker Kyle Johnson blended in a touch of Grenache and Counoise to give this a Southern Rhône Valley twist. The result is a wine that is bright and youthful, thanks to ample acidity and moderate tannins. It unveils aromas and flavors of Bing cherry, blueberry and blackberry, backed by layers of mild oak.

(1,084 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Please see page 58

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L'Ecole No 41 $25 2013 Syrah, Columbia Valley Owner Marty Clubb and his winemaking team brought in grapes from no fewer than six vineyards spread across the vast Columbia Valley for this delicious Syrah. It opens with aromas of orange oil, smoke, Marionberry and chocolate, followed by flavors of pomegranate, blueberry and elderberry jam. It has the structure to pair with lamb chops.

(2,400 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Blooms Winery $29 2012 Syrah, Rattlesnake Hills Winemaker Ken Bloom brought in the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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Monday-Thursday 9am-4pm Doncaster Insurance & Financial Services, Inc. 1020 N. Center Parkway #C Kennewick, WA 99336 www.tomdoncaster.com Securities and advisory services offered through Independent Financial Group, LLC a registered broker/dealer an Investment Advisor and member of FINRA and SIPC. This is not an offer to sell securities, which may be done only after proper delivery of a prospectus and client suitability has been reviewed and determined. Doncaster Insurance & Financial Services, Inc and Independent Financial Group, LLC are unafiliated entities. OSJ Branch: 12671 High Bluff Dr. Suite 200 San Diego, CA 92130 Office Hours of Operation for Doncaster Insurance & Financial Services, Inc: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 4 pm (Noon - 1 pm Lunch)

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italian italianTASTING TASTING RESULTS RESULTS

TO T OPPI TAL I TALI AN I ANVAR VARIETIES IETIES $$3300OORRLLES ESSS BY BY AN AD NY DY PE PR ED RU DE UE Italy Italy is one is one of the of the largest largest wine-producing wine-producing na-nations, tions, andand more more than than 1,000 1,000 varieties varieties of wine of wine grapes grapes areare grown grown in the in the boot-shaped boot-shaped MediterraMediterranean nean nation. nation.

A few A few favorites favorites areare planted planted in the in the Pacific Pacific Northwest, Northwest, particularly particularly Sangiovese, Sangiovese, NebNebbiolo, Barbera andand Primitivo.

Zinfandel —— a a biolo, Barbera Primitivo.

Zinfandel clone of Primitivo —— is included as an Italian clone of Primitivo is included as an Italian variety, thanks primarily to its legacy with early variety, thanks primarily to its legacy with early Italian immigrants who brought it to Italian immigrants who brought it California. to California.

And yes,yes, we we realize thethe likely parent grape to to And realize likely parent grape Zinfandel/Primitivo —— Crljenak Kaštelanski —— Zinfandel/Primitivo Crljenak Kaštelanski is from Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast. is from Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast.

winery winery thatthat doesn’t doesn’t useuse its its estate estate grapes, grapes, though though Zephyr Zephyr Ridge Ridge is not is not far far away away from from Mike Mike Andrews’ Andrews’ vineyards. vineyards.

This This luscious luscious PrimPrimitivo itivo provides provides aromas aromas andand flavors flavors of black of black cherry, cherry, black black raspberry raspberry andand dark-roasted dark-roasted coffee. coffee.

It’s It’s a rich, a rich, chocolaty chocolaty redred with with hints hints of of fig fig in the in the finish finish andand ample ample acidity acidity backing backing up up all all thethe delicious delicious flavor. flavor.

(233 (233 cases; cases; 15.7% 15.7% alc.) alc.) andand flavors flavors of cherry, of cherry, strawberry strawberry andand hints hints of of cardamom. cardamom.

Classic Classic bright bright acidity acidity provides provides Bunnell Bunnell Family Family Cellar Cellar $24$24 great great energy energy to this to this wine, wine, andand silky silky tannins tannins 2014 2014 Wine Wine o'Clock o'Clock Sangiovese, Sangiovese, CoCo- leadlead to atomemorable a memorable finish. finish. lumbia lumbia Valley Valley (136 (136 cases; cases; 14.9% 14.9% alc.) alc.)

Ron Ron andand Susan Susan Bunnell Bunnell notnot only only runrun their their Cavatappi Cavatappi $25$25 eponymous winery winery in the in the Yakima Yakima Valley Valley Coyote Coyote Canyon Canyon Winery Winery $25$25 eponymous 2013 2013 Maddalena Maddalena Nebbiolo, Nebbiolo, Yakima Yakima community community of Prosser, of Prosser, but but they they also also own own and and 2013 2013 Zephyr Zephyr Ridge Ridge Vineyard Vineyard Primitivo, Primitivo, Valley operate operate Wine Wine o’Clock, o’Clock, thethe bestbest restaurant restaurant in in Valley Horse Horse Heaven Heaven Hills Hills thethe valley. valley.

This This delicious delicious Sangiovese Sangiovese goes goes Peter Peter Dow, Dow, a legend a legend in the in the Washington Washington It’s It’s rarerare to see to see a wine a wine from from thisthis Prosser, Prosser, Wash., Wash., with with many many of their of their dishes, dishes, thanks thanks to aromas to aromas wine wine andand restaurant restaurant industries, industries, named named thisthis

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TASTING RESULTS

italian rant, mint and milk chocolate. On the palate, it offers beautiful balance and harmonious structure backing big flavors of black and purple fruit.

(343 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Yakima Valley Vintners $18 2014 Primitivo, Columbia Valley If this delicious wine is any indication, the next generation of Washington winemaking is good hands. The students at Yakima Valley Community College crafted this Primitivo, and it provides aromas and flavors of cocoa, vanilla, black raspberry and plum. It’s all backed by firm tannin and delightful chocolate on the finish.

(50 cases; 14.9% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $25 2013 Estate Sangiovese, Naches Heights Longtime Washington winemaker Paul Beveridge has always enjoyed working with Italian varieties, and this gorgeous Sangiovese comes from estate grapes in the remote, high-

delicious Nebbiolo after his daughter (who now works in the Seattle restaurant business).

It’s a beautiful example of the Italian grape, thanks to aromas of bright cherry, vanilla and cocoa, followed by bright flavors of cranberry, red currant and pomegranate. Moderate tannins give this youthful approachability, but it also has the opportunity to age.

(202 cases; 12% alc.)

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Wilridge Winery $25 2013 Upland Vineyard Barbera, Snipes Mountain Seattle winemaker and recovering lawyer Paul Beveridge used grapes from Snipes Mountain near Sunnyside, Wash., to craft this delicious Barbera. It opens with aromas of blueberry, Graham cracker and cherry cola, followed by luscious flavors of black cherry, blueberry and elderberry. Rich acidity carries the fruit to the next level.

(268 cases; 13.9% alc.)

College Cellars $25 2014 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Tim Donahue and his students at Walla Walla Community College brought in grapes from famed Seven Hills Vineyard to craft this

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Jones of Washington $17 2012 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Winemaker Victor Palencia unleashes his prowess with another red variety, as this bright, racy Sangiovese is one of the best we’ve tasted. Aromas of red plum, strawberry and pomegranate give way to flavors of mouth-filling red fruit, including Rainier cherry and cranberry. It’s all backed by foodfriendly acidity and a long finish.

(964 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Saviah Cellars $30 2013 Barbera, Walla Walla Valley Walla Walla winemaker Richard Funk excels with this rich red wine typically associated with Italy’s Piedmont region. It’s a plush wine with aromas of black cherry, black cur-

elevation Naches Heights AVA. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry and allspice give way to rich, harmonious flavors of cherry, strawberry and white pepper. It’s all backed by bright acidity and moderate tannins.

(266 cases; 13.2% alc.)

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italian TASTING RESULTS beautiful Sangiovese. Aromas of dusty herbs, blackberry and minerality lead to flavors of strawberry, red currant and blueberry. Bright acidity and prominent tannins provide structure and length to this food-friendly red.

(49 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Coyote Canyon Winery $25 2013 Barbera, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Justin Michaud crafted this wine using estate grapes for this Prosser, Wash., winery. It opens with aromas of black currant, black cherry and dark chocolate, followed by rich, round, luscious flavors of blueberry cobbler and blackberry. Gorgeous acidity lifts the fruit and makes this an easy wine to love.

(56 cases; 14.3% alc.)

Excellent Tsillan Cellars $28 2013 Estate Sangiovese, Lake Chelan If any winery in Washington should be making Italian varieties, it should be Tsillan Cellars on the south shore of Lake Chelan with its Tuscan theme. This delicious example provides aromas and flavors of blueberry, strawberry and a hint of earthiness. Crisp acidity and solid tannins provide ample structure through the moderate finish.

(242 cases; 14% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $30 2011 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Chuck Reininger dips into one of our favorite Washington vineyards for this bright and classic Sangiovese. Aromas of cigar box, strawberry and blackberry meld with flavors of red currant and Marionberry. This beautifully structured wine provides everything you need through the long, satisfying finish.

(431 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Cavatappi $20 2012 Molly's Cuvée Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This riserva-style Sangiovese is rich, dark and a little more brooding than most, giving it the structure and flavor to pair with braised or grilled meats. It opens with aromas of Bing cherry, plum and cocoa powder, followed by flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, molasses and dark chocolate.

(200 cases; 11.8% alc.)

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Best Buy Cavatappi $12 2015 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This deliciously fresh Sangiovese from Cavatappi is priced for everyday enjoyment.

It opens with plenty of energy, thanks to aromas of black raspberry, sarsaparilla and forest floor. On the palate, it’s all about red and dark fruits, including Bing cherry and boysenberry. Bright acidity gives everything a lift.

(1,500 cases; 12.8% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $25 2013 Estate Barbera, Lake Chelan Lake Chelan winemaker Shane Collins has put together a delicious Barbera using estate grapes. Aromas of strawberry and graphite lead to flavors of cherry, strawberry jam and red currant. Classic bright acidity and moderate tannins provide balance and length.

(294 cases; 14% alc.)

Winemaker Sara Gagnon’s first vintage of Primitivo is a superb wine, thanks to a little expert blending with Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of raspberry jam, vanilla and blackberry give way to rich flavors of bold blue and purple fruit, including huckleberry.

(147 cases; 14%% alc.)

Ancestry Cellars $25 2013 Heritage Series di Donato Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This Woodinville, Wash., winery now has a second tasting room in Manson, on the north shore of Lake Chelan. This delicious Sangiovese is a big, dark style with aromas and flavors of pomegranate, blackberry and blueberry. RIch acidity and bold tannins provide ample structure.

(150 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Please see page 74

Harbinger Winery $30 2013 Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills

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other reds TASTING RESULTS

fruit finish calls out for a second sip in front of a crackling fire.

(200 cases; 18.5% alc.)

A VARI E T Y OF OTH E R VA RIE TIE S, P RI C E D $ 3 0 OR L E SS

BY ANDY PERDUE What didn’t fit into our other categories went into the “Other red wines” bucket. This category focuses on Tempranillo but also includes wines such as Lemberger, Baco Noir, Tannat and a fortified dessert wine.

Outstanding FairWinds Winery

$21

2007 Lemberger, Horse Heaven Hills Port Townsend, Wash., winemaker Micheal Cavett crafted this delicious and well-aged Lemberger using grapes from famed Champoux Vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills.

Aromas of lilac, bright cherry and spice lead to flavors of black cherry, blackberry and warm spice. A hint of chocolate reveals itself in the finish. It’s a beautifully made wine with good viscosity and a plush mouth feel.

(105 cases; 13.5% alc.)

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Melrose Vineyards $28 2012 Baco Noir, Umpqua Valley This French-American hybrid grape was first planted in Oregon in 1971 in the Umpqua Valley. This example from a top Southern Oregon producer reveals aromas of black cherry, forest floor and spicy oak. On the palate, it offers flavors of cherry, blueberry and pomegranate, all backed by plush tannins and juicy acidity.

(260 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Valley View Winery $30 2009 Anna Maria Port, Applegate Valley This delicious fortified dessert wine comes from grapes in the relatively high-elevation vineyards of the Applegate Valley in Southern Oregon. This example provides aromas and flavors of plum, dates, spice and caramel, as well as hints of fig. The lingering sweet dried

Bunnell Family Cellar $24 2014 Wine o’Clock Tempranillo, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ron Bunnell brought in grapes from famed Lonesome Spring Ranch in the eastern Yakima Valley to craft this superb Tempranillo. It hints at aromas of clove, mint, Graham cracker and blueberry on the nose, followed by flavors of Mexican chocolate, blueberry and pomegranate on the palate. It is beautifully balanced with a delicious finish.

(42 cases; 13% alc.)

Excellent Seven of Hearts $29 2013 Tannat, Columbia Valley Tannat is native to the Madiran region of France, which borders Spain in the southwest.

This example from the Oregon side of the Columbia Valley is one of the best we’ve tasted. Aromas of Marionberry, blueberry and cream lead to rich flavors of black cherry and blueberry. The variety’s famous tannins have been reasonably tamed here.

(125 cases; 13.6% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $30 2013 Tempranillo, Rogue Valley Longtime Oregon winemaker Jason Bull reached into Southern Oregon for the grapes for this Tempranillo, and it’s a beauty. Aromas of dusty blueberry, oak and sage, followed by flavors of smoky blueberry, poF a l l 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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other reds

megranate and cranberry. It’s a firm wine without being too brawny. Notes of bittersweet chocolate show up in the finish.

(232 cases; 14.4% alc.)

Coyote Canyon Winery $25 2013 Tempranillo, Horse Heaven Hills Winemaker Justin Michaud crafted this Tempranillo using estate grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills. Aromas of dried blueberry, cedar and pomegranate lead to flavors of strawberry, cherry and cranberry. It’s a bright, fruit-driven, easy-drinking red.

(211 cases; 14.1% alc.)

flavors of cherry cola, spice, raspberry and mint. Its juicy acidity and medium tannins provide ample structure for this fascinating cool-climate Tempranillo.

(380 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Valley View Winery $24 2012 Anna Maria Tempranillo, Applegate Valley Valley View has been crafting wines in Southern Oregon since the 1970s and continues to produce delicious reds and whites.

This Tempranillo offers aromas and flavors of savory spices, sweet basil, red currant and plum. It’s all backed by bittersweet chocolate in the finish.

(1,200 cases; 13.6% alc.)

Abacela $23 2013 Fiesta Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley The founders of the Tempranillo industry in the Pacific Northwest continue to make some of the best. This example from winemaker Andrew Wenzl opens with aromas of maple bar, cedar and elderberry, followed by flavors of pomegranate and Marionberry. It is backed by a rich mouth feel and sweet tannins.

(1,675 cases; 13.9% alc.)

College Cellars $20 2014 Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley Using grapes from the estate Myles Anderson Vineyard, the staff and students at Walla Walla Community College crafted a tasty wine with aromas and flavors of sweet tobacco, blueberry, cherry and low oak. The flavors are matched by bright acidity and medium tannins.

(110 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $25 2014 Crawford Vineyard Tempranillo, Yakima Valley This Tempranillo from a cooler area of the Yakima Valley unveils complex aromas and 56

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pinot noir FEATURE From page 45

A to Z Wineworks $19 2014 Pinot Noir, Oregon From one of Oregon’s biggest wineries, this is certainly one of the largest-production Pinot Noirs in the state. It reveals aromas of pomegranate and cherry pie filling, followed by flavors of blueberry and black cherry. This is a bright, fresh example that will pair well with turkey, salmon or pork.

(235,000 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Cardwell Hill Cellars $24 2014 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Based in the southern Willamette Valley town of Philomath, Ore., this winery consistently crafts delicious Pinot Noirs. This example from a warm vintage opens with aromas of new leather, violet, Rainier cherry and cardamom. On the palate, bright acidity lifts the red-toned fruit, including cherry and raspberry. Solid tannins provide plenty of structure.

(4,246 cases; 13.9% alc.)

Larkspur Winery $17 2014 Pinot Noir, Oregon Seattle’s Precept Wine is a big player in Oregon Pinot Noir, thanks to its large vineyard holdings and ownership of the 12th & Maple winemaking facility in Dundee. Sarah Cabot handles the winemaking for this delicious and affordable red, which provides aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and oak spice. On the palate, this shows off bright acidity that lifts the flavors of Rainier cherry, red currant and white pepper.

(1,500 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $18 2012 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Indian Creek is the rare Pinot Noir producer in Southern Idaho and has proven through the years to craft excellent examples.

This wine opens with rich aromas of dark red plum, Bing cherry and a hint of chocolate, followed by full, round flavors of red currant, raspberry and strawberry. The structure emphasizes acidity over tannin.

(200 cases; 12.6% alc.)

Maury Island Winery $25 2014 Estate Pinot Noir, Puget Sound Winemaker Bill Riley relies entirely on W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

estate grapes on Maury Island, which is just west of West Seattle. This reveals Old World aromas of mushroom, new leather and moist earthiness, followed by bright flavors of pomegranate, cherry and strawberry. The structure is based more on acidity than tannin. It’s an intriguing wine from an unexpected location.

(82 cases; 12% alc.)

Indian Creek Winery $18 2014 Pinot Noir, Snake River Valley Indian Creek in tiny Kuna, Idaho, produces Pinot Noirs most years, and the wines are often fascinating. This example opens with aromas of red currant and dried blueberry, followed by flavors of golden raspberry and cranberry. It is highlighted by mouthfilling juiciness and midpalate viscosity through the impressive finish.

(300 cases; 12.6% alc.) iOTA Cellars $28 2014 Not One Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills The Eola-Amity Hills might be the most interesting AVA in the northern Willamette Valley. It’s directly in the path of cooling afternoon winds that come directly from the Pacific Ocean through the famed Van Duzer gap. This example reveals complex aromas of saddle leather, moist earthiness and Saskatoon berry, followed by flavors of blueberry and pomegranate.

(658 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Brigadoon Wine $23 2014 Lylee Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This small producer is about halfway between Corvallis and Eugene, Ore. Winemaker Matthew Shown crafted a wine with delicate aromas of spices and blueberry cobbler, followed by flavors of raspberry and huckleberry with hints of spice and vanilla.

It’s a young wine that’s only going to gain complexity with more time in the bottle.

(450 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Cardwell Hill Cellars $28 2013 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley This luscious Pinot Noir from winemaker Dan Chapel opens with aromas of cocoa powder, Bing cherry and sweet herbs. On the palate, this is clean and elegant with flavors of raspberry, cherry and strawberry. It’s all

backed by plush, elegant tannins and bright acidity.

(448 cases; 13.7% alc.)

Best Buy Primarius $15 2014 Pinot Noir, Oregon Here’s another deliciously affordable Pinot Noir from Seattle’s Precept Wine and winemaker Sarah Cabot. This reveals aromas of black truffle, forest floor and Bing cherry, followed by flavors of molasses, raspberry and Rainier cherry. Firm tannins back up the ample fruit and lead to a lengthy finish.

(32,000 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Valley View Winery $24 2013 Anna Maria Pinot Noir, Southern Oregon The Wisnovsky brothers have operated this Jacksonville, Ore., winery for the past couple of decades and have often carried the flag for the Applegate Valley. This delicious Pinot Noir unveils aromas and flavors of cranberry, raspberry, violet and a hint of oak. Bright acidity and mild tannins give this beautiful balance.

(300 cases; 13.4% alc.) $28 Cardwell Hill Cellars 2013 Pommard Block Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Pommard is the most-planted clone of Pinot Noir in Oregon and often the result is in energetic wines with red and dark fruit notes. This example shows off these qualities, with aromas and flavors of spice, cherry, pomegranate and cranberry. It’s all backed by juicy acidity.

(226 cases; 13.2% alc.)

Best Buy Battle Creek Winery $15 2014 Unconditional Pinot Noir, Oregon Sarah Cabot handles the winemaking for the Precept brand that is priced in the $15 sweet spot. Aromas of red cherry and pomegranate lead to flavors of Rainier cherry and sweet herbs. It’s all backed by bright acidity and late-arriving tannins on the lengthy finish.

(6,500 cases; 13.4% alc.)

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FEATURE

rhône

From page 49

College Cellars $26 2014 Blue Mountain Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Planted in 2001 by Michael Corliss, Blue Mountain Vineyard is a fascinating site, as evidenced by this Syrah. It opens with a hint of mint, followed by aromas of blueberry, blackberry and sweet herbs. On the palate, it’s a focused and delicious wine with notes of black tea, blueberry and dark chocolate.

(23 cases; 14.9% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $30 2013 Estate Syrah, Lake Chelan Lake Chelan is proving to be an interesting region for red wine grapes, and the southern shore seems to be able to easily ripen Syrah.

This example provides aromas and flavors of liquid smoke, Graham cracker, red currant, blueberry and strawberry. A creamy midpalate gives way to nicely balanced tannins on the finish.

(562 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Claar Cellars $22 2011 White Bluffs Syrah, Columbia Valley This Syrah from a cool vintage is rather fascinating because cool-climate Syrahs can be some of the most complex and interesting wines. This unveils aromas that remind us of a deli, along with hints of toast and plum. In the palate, flavors of charcuterie and black olive lead to notes of plum. This is a lot of fun to taste.

(118 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $28 2011 Syrah, Columbia Valley Winemaker Chuck Reininger went to the Horse Heaven Hills for grapes from famed Phinny Hill as well as to the Wahluke Slope for fruit from StoneTree and Clifton Hill.

The result is a wine with aromas and flavors of pomegranate, boysenberry, plum and Western serviceberry, all backed by tangy acidity and medium tannins.

(711 cases; 14.3% alc.)

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Claar Cellars $22 2013 White Bluffs Syrah, Columbia Valley This delicious Syrah from a warm vintage shows off rich, bold fruit, including plum jam on toast, blackberry, boysenberry and even a hint of maple syrup. Its rich tannin structure backs up all the massive fruit through the lengthy finish, which includes touches of roasted meat for an added layer of complexity.

(106 cases; 14.1% alc.)

Westport Winery $30 2013 Swimmer, Columbia Valley This Petite Sirah from a warm site on the Wahluke Slope is a big wine with dense fruit.

Aromas of coffee, dark chocolate and plum lead to flavors of black tea, blackberry and boysenberry. The tannins are expertly kept in check but also provide ample balance and length to pair with flank steak.

(62 cases; 15.2% alc.)

Zhoo Zhoo $21 2011 Syrah, Snake River Valley Second-generation vintner Bijou Robertson crafted this tasty Syrah from the warm Sunnyslope Wine District. Aromas of black cherry, dark chocolate and black pepper give way to flavors of blackberry and plum. It’s all backed by supple tannins and a plush midpalate.

(112 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Season Cellars $30 2012 Syrah, Southern Oregon Scott and Jennifer Henry blended a fair bit of Grenache into this Southern Oregon Syrah. On the nose, it shows off aromas of oak, black licorice and wild meats, while on the palate, it reveals flavors of huckleberry, blueberry and buttered toast, all backed by firm tannins.

(235 cases; 13.5% alc.)

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Randolph Cellars Syrah wins Bellingham ‘Best of Show’

BY DAN RADIL

Snohomish’s Randolph Cellars received Best of Show honors for its 2013 Syrah at the inaugural Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival. Robert Ramsay Cellars took home three gold medals, Cooper wine Co., Maryhill Winery and William Church Winery each earned two golds.

Gold medals were awarded to 20 of 65 wines entered in this judged competition.

A public tasting took place at the Four Points by Sheraton Ballroom in Bellingham on Aug 6. Attendees were treated to over 100 wines served by 36 Northwest wineries including top wines from the competition.

Gold medal winners were:

Bergevin Lane Vineyards, 2013 "Linen" Carmenere Cooper Wine Co., 2013 L'inizio Red Wine Cooper Wine Co., 2014 Estate Chardonnay Komodo Dragon Cellars, 2014 Red Blend Lost River Winery, 2013 Cedarosa Maryhill Winery, 2013 Winemaker's Red Maryhill Winery, 2015 Viognier Masquerade Wine Co., "Subdued Excitement" 2012 Late Harvest Viognier/Chenin Blanc Mount Baker Vineyards, 2014 Estate Field Blend Brut Sparkling Wine Pacific Oasis Winery, 2013 Riesling Randolph Cellars, 2013 Syrah Robert Ramsay Cellars, 2012 Mourvedre Robert Ramsay Cellars, 2013 Cinsault Robert Ramsay Cellars, 2015 Mason's White San Juan Vineyards, 2012 Cabernet Franc SuLei Cellars, 2015 Roussanne Tucannon Cellars, 2012 Merlot Vartanyan Estate Winery, 2014 Sweet Riesling William Church Winery, 2013 Malbec William Church Winery, 2013 Sur La Mer A complete list of medal-winning wines is available at bellinghamnorthwestwinefestival.com.

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COYOTE CANYON MARTINEZ & MARTINEZ MCKINLEY SPRINGS WINERY

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AIRFIELD ESTATES

The Prosser Vintner’s Village

Where a hub of wineries in the heart of Washington Wine Country's Yakima Valley has emerged as an exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrian-friendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemaker's Loft.

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Fall Events!

Thurston Wolfe - Featured artists are: Diana Schmidt, showing an exhibit of her water colors.

Carol VonStubbe, displaying her shadow boxes. Ed Maske, showcasing his handcrafted Indian bead bracelets. Cathleen Williams, displaying her lovely earrings and necklaces.

(509) 786-7401

www.airfieldwines.com www.airfieldwines.com

(509) 786-7800

(509) 786-3313

www.thurstonwolfe.com

(509) 786-7686

www.coyotecanyonwinery.com

(509) 786-0004

www.mckinleysprings.com

(509) 786-2392

www.martinezwine.com

(509) 788-0030

www.milbrandtvineyards.com

www.gamachevintners.com

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www.smasnecellars.com

(509) 786-2197

www.bunnellfamilycellar.com Reservations recommended

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The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock – Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for á la carte wining and dining.

September • 16-18 - McKinley Springs - Sensory Series. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

• 17 - Martinez & Martinez Winery - Lounging at the Loft with TC Latin Fusion • 23 - McKinley Springs - Paint and Sip. Canvas, paint & instructions included for $40.

• 24 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Lounging at the Loft with Swing Shift • 23 - 25 - Vintners Village - Prosser balloon rally • 24 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Wine & Watercolors with Chris Blevins, paint & sip. Ann’s Best Creole food truck will be on site.

October • 1 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Annual grape stomp event with Swing Shift.

• 7 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday. Join as they break into a limited production library wine.

• 7 - Airfield Estates - 10th Annual Winemaker’s Dinner. Join winemaker Marcus Miller for a multicourse dinner catered by Bon Vino’s.

• 8- Airfield Estates - 10th Annual Grape Stomp - Food trucks will be on site.

• 8 - 9 - Vintners Village - Catch the Crush weekend • 8 - 9 - Catch the Crush - Join Yakima Valley wineries to celebrate the harvest at the Annual Catch event.

• 28 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Dance night with Salsa Con Rumba. 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.

November • 4 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday. Join as they break into a limited production library wine.

• 11-13 McKinley Springs - A Salute to Our Veterans. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

• 19 - McKinley Springs - End of Vintage Case Sale. 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

• 19 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Winter wine sale. Up to 50% off select wines. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

• 25 - 27 Vintners Village - Thanksgiving in Wine Country December • 2 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday. Join as they break into a limited production library wine.

Please call or check individual web sites for more fall events.

NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS September

November

9 Auburn Art Walk and Wine Tasting, Auburn, Wash.

Auburn’s historic downtown comes alive as wine, music and local artists are featured among downtown businesses. Go to auburnartwalk.com.

4 Sippin’ in the City, Boise. Gem State wineries meet for fifth annual food-and-wine festival at Linen Building. Go to sippininthecity.com.

9 Mercer Island Uncorked, Mercer Island, Wash. Ten regional wineries will pour alongside artists at the Mercer Island Outdoor Sculpture Gallery. Go to mercerislandchamber.com.

10 Leavenworth Fall Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash.

The Bavarian-themed mountain community offers tastings at more than 20 locations, paired with cheeses. Cost is $45. Go to leavenworth.org.

10 Carlton Crush Harvest Festival, Carlton, Ore. This family-style event staged by Ken Wright Cellars features local wines, live music and fun in Upper Park. Go to carltoncrush.com.

10-11 Umpqua Wine Your Way Tour, Roseburg, Ore. Enjoy a self-guided tour starting at one of seven wineries and visit as many of the participating 17 wineries involved. Cost is $35. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org.

15-18 Feast Portland. Bon Appétit magazine’s fourth annual celebration of Oregon food includes more than 30 Northwest wineries and benefits hunger prevention. Go to feastportland.com.

24 Washington Artisan Cheese Festival, Seattle. There are nearly 70 cheesemakers in the state, and Washington wineries will be supporting the festival. Cost is $40. Go to washingtonartisancheese.com 24 A Toast of Life, Seattle. The eighth annual Seattle Hope Gala at Bell Harbor Pier 66 features Washington wineries in support of the American Cancer Society. Go to seattlehopegala.org.

24 Eagle Food and Wine Festival, Eagle, Idaho. A dozen Snake River Valley wineries meet at BanBury Golf Course for the 10th anniversary to benefit Special Olympics and the Eagle Food Bank. Go to eaglefoodandwinefestival.com.

24-25 Oregon Grape Stomp Championships and Harvest Celebration, Turner. Willamette Valley Vineyards plays host to the 26th annual competition, which sends the winner to the world championship in California. Go to wvv.com.

October 1-2, 8-9 Lake Chelan Crush, Lake Chelan, Wash. Experience two weekends of harvest in one of the state’s youngest appellations. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

7-9 Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival, Port Angeles, Wash. Ten wineries will gather to pour and toast the famous indigenous crab for the 15th year. Go to crabfestival.org.

8 Uncork the Cure on Red Mountain, Benton City, Wash. Red Mountain wines are poured to benefit Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. Go to redmtn.eventscff.org.

4-6 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. The Walla Walla Valley comes alive with new releases, winemaker dinners, live music and art festivals. Go to wallawallawine.com.

10 Women, Wine and Shoes, Seattle. A number of regional wineries join this fashion show at the Sheraton Hotel to benefit Olive Crest. Go to winewomenandshoes.com.

11 Epicurean Delight, Spokane. This 35th annual gala gathers 30 wineries and 30 restaurants to benefit the Inland Northwest Blood Center. Go to bloodcenterfoundation.com.

11-12 ¡Salud! Dundee and Portland. The 25th annual Pinot Noir auction benefits Oregon’s vineyard workers and their families. Call 503-681-1850 or go to saludauction.org.

12 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Kennewick, Wash. The 38th annual tasting returns to the Three Rivers Convention Center. Go to tricitieswinesociety.com.

12 Northwest Wine & Food Festival, Portland. This 11th annual event returns to the Doubletree Lloyd Center. Go to nwwinefestival.com.

12 Wish Ball, Portland. Portland Art Museum assists Make-AWish Foundation Oregon and Clark County. Call 503-292-2280 or go to oregon.wish.org.

12-13 Harvest Wine Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The Olympic Peninsula Wineries’ annual fall wine-touring event. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

18-20 Holiday Wine Festival, Spokane. The 30th annual weekend of wine, art and food staged the weekend before Thanksgiving. Go to spokanewineries.net.

19 Skagit Wine & Beer Festival, Mount Vernon, Wash.

Skagit County wineries will be featured at the Eaglemount golf community. Go to mountvernonchamber.com.

25-27 Thanksgiving in Wine Country, Yakima Valley, Wash. Tour Washington’s oldest wine region. Visit wineyakimavalley.org.

25-27 Wine Country Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley, Ore. More than 150 wineries of the Willamette Valley celebrate the holidays. Go to willamettewines.com.

25-27 Lake Chelan Fall Barrel Tasting, Chelan, Wash.

Get a peek at future releases from the state’s 11th American Viticultural Area. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

December 2-4 Holiday Barrel Tasting, Walla Walla, Wash. Enjoy a weekend visiting the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley. Go to wallawallawine.com.

8 Uncork the Night, Bellevue, Wash. Many of Washington’s top sommeliers gather to assist this benefit for Bellevue Life Spring. Go to bellevuelifespring.org.

8-9 Catch the Crush, Yakima, Prosser, Tri-Cities. Harvest celebrations span Yakima, Zillah, Prosser and the Tri-Cities.

Call 866-360-6611 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.

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SOUL-SEARCHING BIKE RIDES LEAD COUPLE TO

TANDEM DINNER & WINE BAR STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

W

OODINVILLE, Wash. — Riding a tandem bicycle is not as easy as it may seem, requiring motivation from both seats and ceaseless teamwork to reach the destination.

In 2008, life in the corporate world threw chicanes into the paths of Brad and Lisa Havens. They suddenly found themselves unemployed, but the products of Puyallup came upon answers and a plan, which they realized together in 2010.

Their concept for Tandem Dinner and Wine Bar began on a tandem bicycle, which explains why guests will see an antique version hanging in the dining room of their Woodinville restaurant.

“We always ride tandem,” Lisa said.

“Brad’s almost 6-foot-2, and I’m not quite 5-foot. I can’t keep up with him on a single.

It’s a lot more fun on a tandem. You can visit, and you can see more.”

It’s been a year since the Havenses have taken their restaurant concept to its new location, but they still get emotional about that display bicycle and what it symbolizes.

“It’s not the easiest industry to switch to,” Lisa said. “We had both spent 20 years climbing the corporate ladder and thought we’d be there until we retired. ‘Now, what are we going to do?’ ” Brad worked in kitchens during his days at 66

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Western Washington University and several years beyond prior to spending two decades with Ecolab, a food safety giant based in St. Paul, Minn.

“My first job came when I was 16 in a Mexican restaurant,” he said. “I got hooked on it and cooked for about 10 years at six restaurants, but I’ve been in thousands of restaurants and exposed to a lot of different operations throughout my corporate career.”

Lisa’s background in hotel management, then as a corporate trainer for Boeing and Weyerhaeuser made her business-savvy.

Those skills allowed her to teach classes at North Seattle Community College and area high schools. Her natural people skills and charm serve her well while working the front of the house.

“We entertained ALL the time at our house and did everyone’s 50th birthday party, retirement, graduation, for as many as 60 to 70 people,” Lisa said. “We thought about that when we got on our tandem bike, and over the three-month period we rode 1,970 miles around the state going over our gifts and talents, how we can re-invent ourselves because our (job) situation wasn’t changing anytime soon.”

They arrived at the concept for Tandem, simplified their lives and cashed in their savings.

“I felt like I was at the craps table, going, ‘Mama needs a new pair of shoes!” she chuckled.

Those private parties would see Brad cooking while Lisa did the baking, the plating and the decorating. They met at a hotel lodging convention, so the idea of launching a restaurant would still seem a bit intimidating but not impossible.

“I was an assistant vice president of corporate accounts,” Brad said. “I was working with chains like Cheesecake Factory, Claim Jumper, Old Spaghetti Factory. There were also independent hotels, too. It was always fun to see what creative concepts people put together.”

The Havenses first opened in Bothell, but their new location along Woodinville-Redmond Road puts them within a few minutes of more than 100 tasting rooms and wineries.

“We outgrew that space in Bothell, which was in a 100-year-old building, and there was a lot of construction going on,” Lisa said.

“We lost business because people couldn’t find us with the roads being closed. And our lease was up.”

So once again, they hopped on the bike and toured Woodinville looking for a new home.

“We belong here because we supported these wineries while we were in Bothell,” she WINEPRESSNW.COM

Tandem Dinner and Wine Bar in Woodinville boasts a wide selection of Washington wines including several cult producers

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Chef and co-owner Brad Havens prides himself on offering an assortment of proteins, pasta and salads with signature dishes of French onion soup, crab cakes, duck-fried potatoes and risotto 68

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said. “And there are way more wineries than there are restaurants.”

Veterans of the Woodinville wine trail might remember the building Silver Lake Winery operated in. That space became the new home for Tandem in August 2015. Next door are tasting rooms for Basel Cellars and Cascade Cliffs.

“We still get people coming in who think it is a winery or a tasting room,” Lisa said.

“It’s been difficult for us to get the word out.”

Many of the touches inside Tandem are straight from their own home. “So this,” she said pointing around the dining room, “is who we are.”

And if you don’t finish your meal, Lisa will send you out the door with a personal touch that’s utterly remarkable.

“Nothing goes home in a to-go box,” she said. “It’s put on a nice clean plate; it’s put in Saran wrap — just like you’ve been to our home for dinner — and we hand it to you.

Just bring my plate back the next time you come in.

“So you see plates coming in and plates going out,” she added. “For people who have never been here before, that’s a huge conversation starter.”

Friends, customers and members of the wine community have given or contributed personal items now on display. Bothell artist Al Cox presented them with a large painting of a scene reminiscent of Venice as a housewarming gift for their new space in Woodinville.

“We have a lot of wonderful gifts from people in here,” she said.

A number of supporters and wineries sponsored bricks on the patio for $150 each.

Some went so far as to purchase hundreds of dollars in gift certificates before the Woodinville location opened to help keep the Havenses going.

“It’s a house party here, and I have one every night. Sometimes, I just don’t know who’s coming,” she said with a smile.

“When you come here, it’s a dining experience,” she adds. “You sit here for three hours and get doted on. People will turn chairs and talk to one another and make friendships.

That’s very rewarding.”

Tandem also is a strong supporter of Woodinville Wine Country, the marketing association for the growing wine scene. The WINEPRESSNW.COM

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latest count has it at more than 130 wineries/tasting rooms.

“We are in the heart of Woodinville, so you need to support your local wineries,” she said. “In return, you hope they will support the local restaurants. If you have reciprocity, everybody wins and you keep it in your community.”

Her straight-forward, two-page list offers 70 or so wines, and roughly two-thirds of those come from neighborhood wineries or tasting rooms. And about half of those are available by the glass, so those tourists who

“It’s a house party here, and I have one every night. Sometimes, I just don’t know who’s coming,” couldn’t make it to Avennia, Betz Family Winery, Brian Carter Cellars can get a glass pour — or a bottle — from each of those wineries.

“I hand-select every wine,” Lisa said.

“There’s not a wine on the list that I wouldn’t take to your house for dinner.”

She’s listed more than 160 Washington wineries during her first year in Woodinville, which also includes cult producers such as Côte Bonneville, Gorman and Mark Ryan.

Several on her list are a stone’s throw away — Januik/Novelty Hill and JM Cellars.

Lisa occasionally goes out on a limb to offer something particularly unusual, such as a glass of Aligoté from Snipes Mountain by Smasne Cellars.

“I work really hard to find things you won’t see at the grocery store or Costco,” she said.

Brad prides himself on offering an assortment of proteins, pasta and salads with signature dishes of French onion soup, crab cakes, duck-fried potatoes and risotto.

“Running a restaurant is ever-changing, multifaceted and very dynamic,” he said.

Understandably, husband and wife collaborated on Tandem’s Match Maker assignment. They opened with Seafood Linguine, WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Lisa Havens prides herself on providing exceptional service. “When you come here, it’s a dining experience,” she said. “You sit here for three hours and get doted on.”

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Duck Breast Risotto Serves 4

Duck Breast ingredients 4 Peking duck breasts, 8-ounce portions 4 sprigs fresh thyme Kosher salt Fresh-ground pepper 2 cloves minced garlic 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 cup red wine 1. Score the fat cap on each duck breast and marinate in extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, fresh thyme, minced garlic and red wine.

2. Allow a few hours in the refrigerator or marinate overnight.

Risotto ingredients 1 pound Arborio rice ½ cup local mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, oyster) ½ cup diced butternut squash ½ cup leeks ¼ cup diced red and yellow bell peppers 1 cup heavy cream 1 quart of vegetable or chicken stock Kosher salt 1 cup grated Parmesan Reggiano cheese 1. In a 6-quart sauce pan, sauté the butternut squash, mushrooms, bell peppers and leeks over low to medium heat until the squash begins to soften.

2. Add one quart of stock and bring to a slow boil.

3. Add the Arborio rice and simmer on medium heat for approximately 12-14 minutes stirring continually to ensure the rice does not scorch.

4. Remove the risotto and spread evenly on a medium-sized sheet pan to cool. This will allow you to have the risotto staged to finish at just the right time without over cooking.

Cooking instructions 1. Pan sear the duck in an iron skillet over medium heat until the fat cap is crisp and fully cooked.

2. Turn over and allow another 2-3 minutes to reach medium rare to medium temperature. Remove from heat and allow to rest while you finish the risotto. (Save the 70

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Duck Breast Risotto paired with Avennia 2013 Justine Red Wine.

pan — with the duck fat — to complete a quick pan sauce.)

6. Slice each duck breast in four or five pieces and place over risotto.

3. In a sauce pan, bring 4 cups of stock to a slow boil, add 4 cups of risotto and salt to taste. (Cook time is only a few minutes after reaching boiling temperature).

7. In your sauce pan, heat a few ounces of remaining duck fat, slowly add some red wine to emulsify the fat and drippings for use as a finishing sauce over the risotto.

4. Add ½ cup each of heavy cream and freshly grated Parmesan Reggiano cheese.

8. Garnish with fresh Parmesan Reggiano.

5. Portion 8 ounces or more of finished risotto in pasta dish.

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Avennia 2013 Justine Red Wine $40 Columbia Valley 325 cases, 14.8% alc.

There’s a growing list of acclaimed winemakers who trained and studied at iconic DeLille Cellars in Woodinville, and Chris Peterson continues to earn high marks.

He earned a degree in history from University of Washington, but in time he went back to school to learn winemaking. He became a star pupil in the inaugural class from Walla Walla Community College’s viticulture and enology program. Peterson even led classes there on international wines prior to joining Chris Upchurch’s team at DeLille.

In 2010, Peterson launched his own brand, Avennia, with Microsoft refugee Marty Taucher, and their project earned Wine Press Northwest’s 2014 Washington Winery to Watch award. They selected the name of the project as a tribute to the city of Avignon in southern France. (Peterson also quarterbacks Passing Time, the awardwinning young brand in Woodinville owned by former NFL stars Dan Marino and Damon Huard.)

At Avennia, Peterson’s focus is on French varieties, and their Southern Rhône-style blend of Grenache (47%), Mourvèdre (38%) and Syrah is constructed with four vineyards in Washington — Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills), Upland Vineyard (Snipes Mountain) and a pair of Red Mountain sites, Heart of the Hill and Angela’s. Alder Ridge and Upland combine for the Grenache, while Kiona’s Heart of the Hill contributes the Mourvèdre.

Rather than rely on engineered yeast, Peterson allowed for feral fermentation and 16 months of barrel aging in neutral French oak. The nose brings fruity hints of black cherry and plum which are joined by brown sugar, cocoa powder, light toast and cedar shavings.

Inside, the structure offers elegance over power as smooth flavors of dark plum and elderberry create a luscious mouth feel that picks up touches of anise and white pepper in the back.

This is one of four Rhône-inspired wines that Peterson and Taucher produce within their brand, which crushed 3,000 cases from the 2013 vintage.

8808 142nd Ave. N.E., Suite 2B, Woodinville, WA 98072-8281, avennia.com, 425-877-1639.

Tandem’s patio offers a garden-like setting.

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EFESTÉ 2015 Evergreen Vineyard Feral Sauvignon Blanc $20 Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley 800 cases, 13.5% alc.

Sauvignon Blanc isn’t one of Washington’s sexiest varieties, but if every producer could pull in the white Bordeaux grape from Evergreen Vineyard, its state ranking in terms of production likely would rise.

At this point, it’s No. 4 — behind Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. EFESTÉ in Woodinville, founded in 2005, shines with Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It’s no coincidence that each comes off Evergreen Vineyard, a renowned site near the Gorge Amphitheater that features caliche soils that impart fascinating slate and minerality notes.

Acclaimed winemaker Brennon Leighton worked on Chateau Ste. Michelle’s famed Eroica Riesling project before moving to EFESTÉ, so he brought a deep understanding of Evergreen Vineyard with him upon arrival in 2007. Five years later, Canadian winemaker Peter Devison replaced Leighton, who left for Charles Smith Wines.

From the start, there seemingly have been no missteps at EFESTÉ, in part because ownership retained DeLille Cellars winemaker Chris Upchurch as an early consultant. And those original owners always will be a part of the brand, pronounced “F-S-T.” The EF is the spoken reference to the letter “F” — as in the first letter of the last name for owners Helen and Daniel Ferrelli. There’s the “S” for founding partner Patrick Smith.

Daniel’s daughter Angela married Kevin Taylor, so there’s the TE — spoken as “tea.”

There’s no “meow” from Feral, so those who appreciate the “tomcat” aromas in Sauvignon Blanc may be a bit disappointed. Rather, it’s focused on tones of Granny Smith apple, lime and slate with fresh-cut celery, pea gravel and green tea components.

Devison’s use of neutral barrels and four months of lees aging imparts just a hint of oak before its January bottling. Lingering lime juice acidity provides pleasing balance to the finish, which is reminiscent of a bone-dry Riesling or steely Pinot Gris. That bodes well for all sorts of seafood, including breaded oysters or dishes including capers.

Other pairing concepts include grilled salmon, vegetable kabobs, Greek salads, tamales and even Nopalitos con Huevos.

EFESTÉ, 19730 144th Ave. N.E., Woodinville, WA 98072, efeste.com, 425-398-7200.

featuring Bedford sea scallops, prawns and Dungeness crab with the EFESTÉ 2015 Evergreen Vineyard Feral Sauvignon Blanc.

Inherently scintillating white wines from that stellar Ancient Lakes site in the Columbia Basin are a natural fit with seafood, and neither the light garlic cream sauce within the pasta nor the light hand with the Parmesan overwhelms the meat or Peter Devison’s wine. And the Woodinville winemaker allows the Sauvignon Blanc to finish with lime juice rather than hairraising acidity.

There are two risotto items on the Tandem menu, one with a white wine for seafood while the Duck Breast Risotto features a red wine demi-glace. Brad seared the breast perfectly, providing a crunchy skin, and didn’t oversalt the dish. It paired naturally with the Avennia 2013 Justine, a juicy and fruity GSM-style blend that leads with Grenache (47 percent) and

Inherently scintillating white wines from the Columbia Basin and Walla Walla are a natural fit with seafood.

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Mourvèdre (39 percent) rather than Syrah. It’s another dish incorporating Parmesan, but the raspberry-like line of acidity in the Justine slices through both the duck and that cheese.

Few activities are better at burning calories than cycling. Alas, the Havenses have plunged virtually all of their energy into their restaurant and their family.

“We’ve ridden once since we’ve opened up Tandem,” Lisa said with a smile. “We ended up calling a friend of ours to pick us up. I think we did 65 miles that day, and that was enough.”

ERIC DEGERMAN

••• Tandem Dinner and Wine Bar Woodinville, WA 98072 tandemwinebar.com 425-398-WINE (9463)

is CEO and president of Great Northwest Wine (greatnorthwestwine.com).

Seafood Linguine Serves 4

½ pound fresh Dungeness crab meat

Zest of one lemon

½ pound New Bedford sea scallops

1 tablespoon of fresh chopped garlic

½ pound wild Pacific prawns 1 pound fresh linguine

4 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

4 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup grated Parmesan Reggiano

1 cup leeks

1 tablespoon medium-grind black pepper

1 cup mixed mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, oyster)

2 tablespoons of capers

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. Remove shell, devein and butterfly prawns. Set aside crab and scallops.

2. Season the heavy cream in a sauce pan with lemon zest, cayenne pepper, salt, pepper, capers. Whisk ingredients together to evenly disperse seasoning.

3. Prepare 4 quarts of salted water for pasta, and pre-cook the pasta for a few minutes. Allow pasta to cool without over cooking to be staged for your final cooking steps.

4. Sauté scallops and prawns in butter and garlic over medium heat with salt and pepper.

5. Don’t burn the garlic!

6. Sauté vegetables, garlic on low to medium heat in butter.

7. Don’t burn the leeks!

8. Pour in seasoned cream and bring to a boil for a few minutes to reduce and tighten up the sauce.

Seafood Linguine paired with EFESTÉ Evergreen Vineyard Feral Sauvignon Blanc.

10. Remove from heat and gently fold in pasta until evenly coated.

Plate in large pasta dish and garnish with grated Parmesan Reggiano and chopped Italian parsley.

11. Top with cooked prawns, seared scallops and Dungeness crab meat.

9. As it reduces, add a little bit of your favorite white wine.

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italian

From page 53

Claar Cellars $22 2010 White Bluffs Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Using estate grapes overlooking the Columbia River, this longtime Washington winery has created a luscious Sangiovese with aromas and flavors of black cherry, vanilla, black tea and chocolate shavings. Mild tannins and firm acidity make for a deliciously rustic finish.

(128 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $22 2013 Barbera, Columbia Valley Winemaker Richard Batchelor has crafted a luscious, drink-now Barbera that unveils aromas and flavors of dusty strawberry, raspberry and rose petals. Its bright acidity and mild tannins give this youthful exuberance.

(627 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $25 2013 Clifton Vineyard Nebbiolo, Wahluke Slope Winemaker Paul Beveridge is dedicated to Nebbiolo, considered one of the finest red grape varieties in the world. This example from the warm Wahluke Slope offers expressive aromas and flavors of caramel, licorice, cherry and red currant. Hints of coffee and pipe tobacco add layers of complexity.

(224 cases; 0% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $30 2012 Howling Wolfe Reserve Zinfandel, Horse Heaven Hills This is one of two Zins made by Wade Wolfe, one of Washington’s longest-tenured and most talented winemakers. This example offers aromas and flavors of cocoa butter, strawberry, blackberry and juicy blueberry. It’s silky smooth with a sensual finish.

(100 cases; 15% alc.)

Maryhill Winery $24 2013 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Winemaker Richard Batchelor loves working with different grape varieties, and this is one of more than two dozen he brings in.

Aromas of smoky autumn leaves, raspberry and cedar meld with flavors of strawberry, loganberry and dusty minerality. It’s a bright, mouth-filling red.

(1,649 cases; 14.3% alc.)

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Bunnell Family Cellar $24 2011 Wine o'Clock Boushey Vineyard Sangiovese, Yakima Valley Ron Bunnell worked with grape grower Dick Boushey for this bright and delicious Sangiovese. Aromas of red cherry, raspberry and mild oak lead to rich, round flavors of strawberry, Rainier cherry and red currant.

It’s all backed by solid tannins and bright acidity.

(237 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Ledger David $26 2013 Sangiovese, Rogue Valley Winemaker John Quinones crafted this delicious red using estate grapes in Southern Oregon’s Rogue Valley. Elegant aromas of blackberry, black cherry and vanilla give way to flavors of black licorice, blackberry and black tea. It has beautiful weight in the mouth and a long finish.

(400 cases; 14.6% alc.)

College Cellars $18 2014 Barbera, Walla Walla Valley Using grapes from Myles Anderson Vineyard, the faculty and students at Walla Walla Community College have crafted a marvelously rich and fun red wine with aromas and flavors of purple fruit, strawberry taffy and boysenberry.

(110 cases; 13.1% alc.)

Abacela $24 2013 Dolcetto, Umpqua Valley Andrew Wenzl is the man in the cellar at this iconic Southern Oregon winery. He used estate grapes for this rare Northwest Dolcetto. Aromas of mint and dark cherry lead to flavors of blackberry and plum. Bold tannins and rich acidity provide ample structure for pairing with grilled steaks or rich lasagna.

(301 cases; 13% alc.)

Claar Cellars $22 2013 White Bluffs Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Winemaker Joe Hudon has produced a delicious and approachable Sangiovese with classic Washington-style aromas of pomegranate, red currant and rose petals, followed by rich, round flavors of plum and smoky cherry.

(110 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards $29 2013 Sangiovese, Oregon Roseburg, Ore., winemaker Patrick Spangler has put together a delicious Italian-style red with aromas and flavors of strawberry, cranberry and raspberry. Firm tannins on the entry linger throughout, providing ample structure and length.

(257 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Thurston Wolfe $20 2013 Zephyr Ridge Vineyard Zinfandel, Horse Heaven Hills Zephyr Ridge is a favorite vineyard for winemaker Wade Wolfe, who began learning his way around Washington wine country when he arrived in the mid-1970s. This tasty Zin offers aromas and flavors of fresh mint, strawberry and hints of cranberry, all backed by mild tannins.

(890 cases; 15% alc.)

For complete results visit winepressnw.com

Maryhill Winery $24 2013 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley If Maryhill has a signature wine amid its 60 or so bottlings, this is the one that cemented its reputation as a serious winery in its first couple of years of operation. This current release offers aromas and flavors of dusty cherry, strawberry, cola and cranberry. It’s a bright, approachable, drink-often red.

(3,666 cases; 14.5% alc.)

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grapes of roth

BY COKE ROTH

Indulging in Malbec research

O

nce again you have chosen to subject yourself to 900 words of rhetorical flourish that, were it not for a strictly enforceable contract, you would be reading the words of another that may actually be useful and informative. It’s the last page of this wonderfully entertaining magazine where I, with full intention, make the simple hideously complicated; where fact and opinion are woven into a complex tapestry harder to untangle than the kid’s fishing reel.

In an attempt to break my long-standing trend of confounding, I have personally researched and tasted, all for you, my fan (s), a terrific wine that would have become an obscure footnote in the world of wine were it not for the South American country of Argentina and a little-known commune in the south of France, Cahors.

If you don’t know already, starting in the mid-19th century (that’s the 1800s), the world was exposed to this nasty little North American root and leaf louse colloquially known as phylloxera. This pesky little aphid devastated Bordeaux vineyards where the delicious variety of Malbec was primarily grown. When replanting occurred in Bordeaux on phylloxera-resistant rootstock, Malbec got dropped like a hot rock and replaced, for the most part, by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But why would this tasty fruit-bomb get kicked to the curb?

Economics, baby … they got tired of losing their crop. Malbec is not the easiest variety to grow. Malbec comes out swinging early so it susceptible to frost, any significant rain during bloom will result in grape clusters that look like a hungry eight-yearold got to them, and they are unfortunately a magnet for fungal infections. But notwithstanding its problems in Bordeaux, and its diminished presence to less than 1% of the action, in Argentina and Cahors, Malbec flourishes and is regarded with something close to reverence.

I first thought that may be the reason why there are sparse plantings of Malbec

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outside of Argentina and Cahors is because it’s just so doggone hard to make this wine as good as they make it. Not so. Pick up a bottle of Malbec from this quadrant of the States and you’ll see that we are in the international hunt. Our winemakers at this way are creating delicious, affordable wares second to none.

While soils, heat, cultural practices and winemaking dictate whether the wine tastes old-world French or new-world Argentinian, however, like any other variety, regional clonal differences very much control what you perceive.

I chronicled about a dozen Malbec wines from France, Argentina, Chile and the Northwest, to see if there were identifiable common threads. Found ‘em!. First of all, like no other wine, Malbec, even with a half-dozen years in the bottle, is deep blueblack in color graced by a trademark hot pink – tinged rim. If you eat with your eyes like I do, the color of Malbec will get your tummy growling.

If you’re looking for a wine with massive black fruit flavors, Malbec is your date.

Even though clonal and stylistic differences are afoot, nothing can stop the penetrating and mouth filling fruit of Malbec. Those made in the French style may morph the fruit into black current and Bing cherry with characteristic earthy/leathery character. Those made in the New World style will be filled with blackberry and blueberry.

Even with heavy-handed oak in either style, you can’t stop that fruit train.

Here’s another one; delicious, salivating acid is another common component you’ll find in Malbec almost regardless of where and how it is grown. The tartness of Malbec makes it broadly applicable for almost any occasion; before, after and at the dinner table.

What you rarely find in well-made Malbec is an overabundance of phenolic bitterness … Tannins, baby. Malbec is typically smoother than a baby’s cheek, so it goes down easy. This isn’t to say that Malbec is a

sissy; it is rich and bold.

On occasion you’ll find a Malbec Rosé.

Gordon Estate makes a glorious example of how you turn black into pink and how to enjoy a warm day.

I cannot think of another variety of wine that is more pleasing to a broad variety of people and occasions than Malbec. The pleasing fruit and acid balance of Malbec will take your cocktail hour to a new level.

In my opinion, and, in my opinion, my opinion is the only opinion that is of any real value, you can do no finer than pairing Malbec with wild-flavored meats at the dinner table .… Lamb, venison and duck, and I found Osso Buco to be a romantic contender.

It’s a smooth transition from dinner to after dinner with pleasing Malbec. My latest comparison was actually a smack-down between the Mendoza Vineyards Gran Reserva from Argentina and the ever so popular Clos La Coutale from Cahors, France. Believe me I was standing in high cotton when I sliced off some jalapeno and cheese elk sausage and some gruyere that I muled back from Switzerland. If it was an illegal import, the evidence has been destroyed. Man that was good!

Finally, once again, in an attempt to comprehensively and exhaustively test Malbec at the most extreme level, I pulled out a Dominican EMS Lonsdale cigar and found it a delightful way to conclude my research.

Tempus is fugiting, I have 900 words of ink and the editor’s hook is coming out. I commend hoisting a glass of Malbec, with friends, in moderation, frequently. is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. Learn more about him at cokerothlaw.com.

COKE ROTH

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