Wine Press Northwest Summer 2016

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Summer 2016

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12 A Midsummer Night’s Dream 72 Hours in Ashland 26 Winery group seeking AVA status 30 Lost River Winery, a gem off the beaten path 34 Northwest Riesling continues rise in quality

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C OVE R PH O T O BY A NDREA J O HN SO N

Wine Knows A little more clarity, honesty please

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A Distant Perspective The rebirth of dry Riesling

10 Swirl, Sniff & Sip A good year for quality wines

46 Nome de Vine 14 Hands 2013 Red Blend

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COLUMN

the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

A little more clarity, honesty please

I

n this edition of Wine Press Northwest, you’ll find our blind judging of Northwest Rieslings. Of the 108 Rieslings we tasted, more than 30 percent of them carried the Riesling Taste Profile on the back label.

The Riesling Taste Profile, often referred to as “the Riesling scale,” is a graphic that goes on the back label of a bottle of Riesling. It was developed in 2008 by the International Riesling Foundation (IRF) — in fact, the concept and look of it was the brainchild of Dan Berger of Santa Rosa, Calif., whose column has long graced the pages of Wine Press Northwest.

Here's the problem with Riesling: Thanks to the most popular styles made in the 1970s and 1980s, the public perception of the noble white variety is that every bottle is filled with a sweet wine. Frankly, it's a well-earned reputation, thanks to such easy-drinking German Rieslings as Blue Nun and Black Tower that filled shelves across the United States and United Kingdom 40 years ago.

To solve Riesling's perception problem, the Riesling Taste Profile was created, and wineries around the world began to use it. At a glance, the potential buyer can see if a wine is sweet, dry or somewhere in between. The winemaker determines where the wine fits on the scale based on such factors as residual sugar, acidity, fruitiness and the overall perception of sweetness.

The beauty of the Riesling scale is its simplicity and honesty.

Chateau Ste. Michelle — the world's largest producer of Riesling — puts the scale on most of its wines. For its mainstream Columbia Valley Riesling, that means the scale is on more than 12 million bottles of wine per year.

It is joined by wineries across the United States and around the globe.

The IRF provides the scale at no cost, so there is no financial reason for every producer to not use it. That more than 30 percent of Northwest Riesling producers are using it is

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heartening. I'd love to see that double again in the next couple of years.

According to the IRF, the scale is making a difference. Consumers are getting used to looking for it, and that is helping. According to wineries, retailers, restaunrateurs and IRF members, the scale is changing the perception of Riesling from being a sweet wine to one that is versatile. The scale is helping to put Riesling in its proper perspective as the greatest wine on Earth.

In fact, the scale has become so useful, I've started to see it on other wines, including rosés, Sauvignon Blancs and even Merlots.

While the IRF is not thrilled with its scale showing up on non-Rieslings, this does give rise to an idea: What if more wines began to use similar graphics on the back label?

What if a Chardonnay bottle could quickly tell me if it’s rich or crisp? What if I could see with a glance if a rosé was dry or sweet?

For red wines, wouldn't it be fantastic to be able to quickly see if a wine's flavors were driven by oak or fruit, if the structure was plush or taut?

An idea like this would bring a refreshing bit of honesty and transparency to a part of wine packaging that is rife with misdirection.

It is filled with phrases such as “reserve,” “old vine” and “barrel select” — words with little meaning and no definition. The back labels of wines are often filled with descriptions.

Sometimes, they are the honest words of a winemaker trying to convey what is in the bottle; or perhaps they’re the flowery prose of the marketing department.

The weight of a bottle influences our buying decisions: The heavier the bottle, the greater the perceived quality — and the higher the price of that wine.

I prefer clarity.

I like to know where the grapes came from (smaller American Viticultural Areas and vineyard designations are great). If it's a white or dessert wine, I like to know the residual

sugar (a number that is rarely included anymore). I’d love to see the alcohol percentage put in the same place on every bottle — and not in 1-point type.

Is it a red blend (seemingly the most popular category in Washington right now)?

More than half the wines out there give little clue about what kinds of grapes are actually in the bottle.

These are all a lot to ask, and some of it isn't practical. My favorite grocery store has a terrific selection of more than 1,000 different wines. While I see it as a fun opportunity to explore and discover, I suspect many consumers are overwhelmed, even terrified. Fortunately, this particular store has a friendly wine steward to guide those who wander about.

This, I find, is a rarity unless I walk into a wine shop.

I think the Washington wine industry can lead the way in creating a set of scales similar to what the IRF came up with. There might be three or four to handle different styles of wine: oaky to fruity, dry to sweet, crisp to rich. A low-key public-relations campaign in groceries, wine shops, tasting rooms and social media could spread the word and get consumers used to turning the bottle around to glance at the back label and quickly learn a little more about what they're holding and if they want to buy it.

I'd even bet we could get Dan Berger to help with it. is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. He’s also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times and founding editor of Wine Press Northwest magazine.

ANDY PERDUE

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S u m m e r 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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COLUMN

a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

The rebirth of dry Riesling

W

hen you have a passion for a certain wine, others make assumptions about your sanity or overall judgment.

My love in this strange game is Riesling, which has a few pitfalls for my reputation and leaves me kind of defending myself even when no one has specifically accused me of being a little off my rocker.

For example, if you have seen my impassioned pleas for understanding of Rieslings because of their regional distinctiveness, you might take it for an attempt to justify a “misplaced” faith since there are few other wine writers with such a fixation.

“He can’t be serious about loving the wines of the Pfalz,” you might think of me, especially when the Rheingau and the Mosel arguably make “better” Rieslings. (But when it comes to comparing the same varietal from different regions, all conclusions eventually collapse into absurdity.)

Another argument that points to my obviously unbalanced approach is that such an intensity placed behind a single grape might be better understood if that grape were red.

And of course my thesis, in which I admit is biased, seems completely ludicrous to those who dine out on a regular basis and who consider no meal complete without a chunk of beef or other red-wine-oriented dish.

Riesling is almost never considered a companion for food (not even spicy Asian!), notably when so many Americans are still eating Midwest-hardy fare from a four-legged beast that would fail miserably with almost any white wine.

Which is proved pretty much universally by the fact that Riesling is nearly impossible to find on restaurant wine lists - no matter how the cuisine is oriented.

Here the American penchant is for Chardonnay, followed by things as esoteric as white Rhône blends (blands?), Sauvignon Blanc, even Pinot Gris.

So this column is not really an attempt to get nonbelievers to leap into an area they’ve not yet discovered as much as it is to simply look at a recent phenomenon that has yet to be written about by the major wine publications and for good reason.

The rebirth of dry Riesling.

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The wine magazines have not written of this because so few have Riesling crazies on their staff (everyone seems to be a Red wine expert) - and those that do like Riesling spend a lot of time cooing and swooning over the richest of the late-harvest styles.

In fact, the most fascinating aspect of the recent mini-surge in Riesling sales has come from the drier sector - in some cases so dry that the wine does not come across to some folks as Riesling-like because, as Aunt Maude knew all too well, “Riesling is sweet, right?”

In fact, the trend toward really dry Riesling is being spurred by a reawakening in Germany that Riesling can be as dry as Chablis even while it is compared with the sweeter versions of the past in the dessert delights that are the only real 100-point candidates among Rieslingites.

I first began to notice the drier styles in Germany during a 2002 visit to the Mosel, when wines from 1997, 1999 and 2001 were being poured.

I noticed the bracing acidity and the almost negligible sweetness.

Some wines were called trocken, the German word for dry, but there were a number of other regional designations (ostensibly vineyard related) that to the initiated meant wines that had no sugar, or darn little.

What was striking about the wines was that they all seemed structured to go with food and were decidedly not for dessert.

I asked a number of German producers if these wines were selling. Almost all of them noted that the rebirth of the dry category was being driven by restaurant sales.

When we got back home, I asked a number of friends who also were sommeliers if they were excited about dry Riesling as well, and several said, “Absolutely!”

Some added, “They’re fabulous with appetizers.”

The implication here is that dry Riesling was not likely to be a trend at casual places (which had few if any appetizers), but more likely in places that had appetizers, i.e, upscale.

Another reason that the “soms” appreciated the completely dry, vineyard-designated Rieslings was that the wines were not inexpensive – high-profit items that their normal clientele

didn’t mind paying the freight for as long as the story that came with the bottle was worth telling and retelling.

And one story that was retold were tales of German vintners who stubbornly continued to make the dry style from the 1980s to the 1990s, basically before the Millennial buyers were born! And those wineries suffered until dry was again back in vogue.

The clear message is that the excitement we are seeing for dry-style Riesling seems to be a Millennial-driven phenomenon that adventuresome and savvy soms picked up on a few years ago. And which they are milking.

The wonderful thing here is that German Rieslings typically age beautifully under good storage conditions.

And the benefit for consumers is that a 6to 10-year-old Riesling is probably better than a just-released baby.

So unlike most other white wines that are less interesting as time goes on, older Rieslings actually are exciting.

As I pointed out earlier, not an awful lot of this material is widely known to consumers, but when dining in a top-rated restaurant with servers in-the-know, some of this information gets passed along, and Millennial wine-buyers just lap this stuff up.

In case you get lucky, 2001 and 2002 were sensational years in German Riesling, and if you can find a bottle from one of those years on a restaurant list, it would be a prize.

Now for even better news: Washington and Oregon, not to mention British Columbia, are making some fabulous dry Rieslings.

The same is true in upstate New York, on Michigan’s upper Peninsulas, and even in places previously not even known to make wine at all, such as Ohio, Virginia, Pennsylvania, Idaho’s Snake River Valley, and a few other places around the United States.

Is this due entirely to the wine making? Or is it possible that the excitement for Riesling is related to the greatness of the grape?

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

A good year for quality wines

S

omething shocking is happening in the world of Northwest wine in 2016. It’s practically raining gold medals.

During the year’s first four months, I served as a wine judge at three Northwest events and at a fourth was chief of judges, which meant I tasted and wrote reviews for about three-quarters of its 200 gold medal winners.

Of the red wines entered for the competitions, most were from the 2012 and 2013 vintages. And of the white and rosé wines, most were from 2014 and 2015. About 1,700 wines were entered in the four events, all made from grapes grown in Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Idaho, except a lone Northern California import crafted in Southern Oregon.

Some of the judges work at competitions throughout the United States and Canada.

And virtually all of them have spent decades learning about and evaluating wine, whether their background is in winemaking, sales, restaurants, hospitality, teaching, research, writing or in some other job related to the industry.

In a typical year, these men and women as a group probably rank 12 to 15 percent of the wines they evaluate as worthy of a gold medal. So far this year, the wines rated have been winning gold medals at a rate of 18 to 21 percent, except at the recent Wine Press Northwest Riesling tasting, which drew 108 entries and awarded 33 gold medals.

If there’s an anomaly here, it would appear to be the Riesling tasting featured in this edition of Wine Press Northwest, with 30.6 percent golds. That’s certainly a lot, and perhaps the judges were overly generous. But Northwest Riesling has an international reputation for excellence, which even the Germans recognize.

There is a reason that Chateau Ste. Michelle makes more Riesling than any other winery in the world — and sells every bit of it without difficulty. And if you can’t find a style of Ste. Michelle Riesling to suit your preference — dry, off-dry, sweet, late harvest, ice wine — perhaps you don’t like Riesling.

Judging wine is admittedly a highly sub10

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jective pursuit, but if there’s one thing I’ve learned over 15 years of judging, it’s that most judges have definite opinions, developed over decades, which they defend stoutly and with little restraint. Consumers who suspect wine judges are mere industry shills would do well to sit through the discussion over several flights of Pinot Noir.

Some of the terms used to defend or to disparage Pinot would be right at home in our current election campaign. The arguments are forceful, sometimes to the point of insult and beyond. So I don’t believe this level of praise is a matter of soft-headed or soft-hearted judges.

Instead, I’m convinced we’re seeing the result of four good vintages back to back, after the difficult, cool years of 2010 and 2011. Those years produced some excellent wines, but not so many as previous years.

Those two years, as veteran winemaker Rob Griffin of Barnard Griffin in Richland, Wash., once told me, were a surprise to many young winemakers who had become used to warm summers and best-quality crops.

Making good wine from the grapes grown in a cool year, “separates the men from the boys,” he observed.

So perhaps all those gold medals are the result of winemakers being forced to hone their skills on some challenging crops, learning new skills and then being rewarded with best-quality grapes for four years in a row, produced by grape growers who also learned some new skills during those two difficult years.

Dick Boushey, recognized as one of Washington’s premier growers for his work on Red Mountain and in the Horse Heaven Hills, has described 2012 as “almost a perfect year.”

Marty Clubb of L’Ecole No. 41 in Lowden, Wash., another of the Northwest’s winemaking veterans, echoes that. He recently told Wine Enthusiast, “The wines just came out near perfect.”

In 2016 competitions in the Northwest so far, the wine judges reached the same verdict.

For consumers, it means there are plenty of stellar wines of every kind in almost every price range.

Wine word: The barrel The Pacific Northwest’s wineries have mostly just completed that annual rite of spring, the barrel tasting. And that means thousands of us have migrated to the region’s 1,700 or so wineries in the past couple months, all to pay homage to the wine that will emerge from its oaken cocoons over the next year or so.

We’ve sniffed, swirled, sipped and perhaps even reluctantly spit while trying to appreciate the unfinished product and somehow guess whether it will be a beautiful butterfly when the winemakers set it free after bottling.

And no doubt some have admiringly approved of those ranks of barrels, all carefully labeled, stacked and lovingly stored, without even giving thought to who invented one of the most critical elements of wine making — the wooden barrel.

One might guess it was the French, perhaps the wine barrel’s most devout proponents. Or perhaps the Romans, those world conquerors who spread Latin, wine and later Christianity throughout the civilized world. Or maybe the Greeks, sprung from the soil that nurtured many concepts of Western civilization.

And if so, one would be wrong. It was, historians agree, the Celts, a people who didn’t write down much of anything, probably some time before 500 B.C. Roman authors reported encountering wooden barrels early on. And soon adopted them to keep the wine flowing to their victorious Legions.

Interestingly, the Celts and others who resisted the Romans found other uses for barrels as well, rolling barrels laden with pitch and set on fire to attack one of Rome’s Legions. More practically, the Latin scholars reported, barrels were used to build ancient pontoon bridges.

Readers who’d like to know more might want to track down a recent book titled, “Wood, Whiskey and Wine: A History of Barrels,” by Henry H. Work. the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

KEN ROBERTSON,

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FEATURE

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A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM

Strolling through the vineyards at Belle Fiore Estate & Winery.

Photo by Andrea Johnson, Andrea Johnson Photography

A

SHLAND, Ore. — The influence of William Shakespeare on the Southern Oregon wine industry is rather remarkable some 400 years after his death, the Bard of Avon remains responsible for much of the history and economy in the town of Ashland.

“The driving force for tourism in Ashland is the Oregon Shakespeare Festival,” said Michael Donovan, a director for the Oregon Wine Board, president of the Southern Oregon Winery Association and managing director of Irvine Family Vineyards in 12

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Ashland. “It continues to bring to Ashland a very affluent and educated clientele, and the restaurants grew up around that.”

It has taken time, but fortunately the wine industry is slowly growing, too, in this city with a population of nearly 21,000.

“The concept of culinary tourism is becoming firmly established, and local wines are becoming a part of that,” said Eric Weisinger, whose father, John, established his vineyard with Gewürztraminer in 1978 and launched Weisinger Family Winery a decade later.

“If you and I were going to Burgundy, are we going to order a Chianti when going out to dinner? No,” Weisinger said. “It’s all about experiencing a region, and now tourists and chefs are asking for wines from our region.”

Quality, not the cost, has been the driving force of local wines in Ashland restaurants.

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ashland

FEATURE

72 HOURS IN ASHLAND

// BY ERIC DEGERMAN

Tickets to Oregon Shakespeare Festival performances are not inexpensive - ranging from $30 to $110 - and the combined capacity of the three theaters is about 2,000.

The famous repertory theater was established in 1935 by Angus Bowmer, a drama professor at what is now Southern Oregon University. He had the vision of using the single remaining wall of a historic Ashland building as the backdrop for Shakespeare plays. It’s grown into a 4-acre campus near Lithia Park that has played host to each of Shakespeare’s 37 plays. In 2015, attendance WINEPRESSN W .C O M

for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival was 390,380, and a staggering 88 percent of those tickets are sold to patrons visiting Ashland.

Perhaps more importantly from a tourism standpoint is that a Shakespeare attendee from out of town stays an average of 3.3 nights. The festival estimated that in 2015, those tourists spent $50 million in Ashland and the impact statewide from the festival was $262 million.

“It’s a destination for sure,” Donovan said.

“We still rely a little too heavily on California for visitors, which make up almost 75

percent, with most of them coming from the Bay Area, and 20 to 25 percent are from Portland and Seattle and other parts of the Northwest.”

For those attending the evening performances, Ashland’s emerging wine industry offers delicious and scenic day trips. At this point, 72 hours can provide for a nearly complete experience, but the amount of investment, vision and talent by these vintners will prompt folks to return for more exploration.

To get a sense of the wine history in the Bear Creek Valley, it’s ideal to start with S um m e r 2 0 1 6 • Win e Pre s s N o r thwest

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Weisinger Family Winery, which bottles about 2,000 cases per year.

“My father heard about Frank Wisnovsky at Valley View Vineyards in the Applegate Valley growing grapes,” Eric Weisinger said.

“He and Frank became friends, and Frank sold my father 600 cuttings of Gewürztraminer. My two younger sisters and I planted those in June and July 1979. I was 9, Annie was 8, and Sarah was 4. Dad was digging the holes, so we all had a job.”

It was a decade before John Weisinger, a Texan, created his winery using that Gewürz-

traminer planted at 2,224 feet elevation.

They’ve since added Pinot Noir and Tempranillo to that vineyard, and they source from sites nearby. Their 1991 Petit Pompadour made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec was one of Oregon’s first Meritagestyle blends. The family remains bullish on Malbec and Tempranillo but also is championing Syrah and Grenache. Eric Weisinger took over the winemaking in 1997, yet he’s worked twice as many harvests as one might believe because he’s been involved with crush in New Zealand for most of the past decade.

Visitors to Belle Fiore will find expansive grounds and this elegant European style tasting room. Photo by Andrea Johnson, Andrea Johnson Photography

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“This has been the first time in eight years I’ve been home during April,” he said with a chuckle. “I’ve kind of retired from the two-hemisphere winemaking. I decided 16 vintages in eight years was enough.”

Across the Bear Creek Valley is Belle Fiore, the former cattle ranch that’s been transformed into a stunning estate winery, vineyard and tasting room by the Kerwin family.

Ed Kerwin began as a NASA engineer before becoming a research physician focused on allergies and immunology. He and his wife, Karen, a biochemist, purchased Miller Ranch in 2000, planted vines in 2007 and opened their chateau that same year.

“When I first went out there, I was amazed by the construction,” said Greg Jones, an environmental science professor at Southern Oregon University and viewed as the wine world’s leading expert in climate research. “It takes you somewhere else — the Silverado Trail or a wine region in Europe — because it’s such an extravagant building.”

The Kerwins hired Napa Valley winemaker Kathe Kaigas, who has worked with famed French consultant Michel Rolland. Belle Fiore’s tasting program includes sample food pairings for individual wines being offered that afternoon and evening. On the bar could be Pinot Noir, Barbera, Tempranillo, Syrah, Malbec, Viognier, Riesling and Muscat Canelli.

There’s a similar vision at Irvine Family Vineyards, and it didn’t take long for Michael Donovan to learn how dedicated Doug and Dionne Irvine were about wine, particularly their desires for the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown on their 80-acre estate.

“They said their goal is to make some of the best wine in the world, so I asked what their favorite wine is?” Donovan said. “They said, ‘Le Montrachet.’ From that point on, I took them serious.”

Doug, who grew up in nearby Jacksonville, and Dionne, a product of the Oregon coast, first planted vines in 2007, and their inaugural commercial vintage was 2009 with 50 cases. By 2012, they bottled 2,000 cases, but you won’t find any Southern Oregon wines from 2013. “That was the smoke year in the valley,” Donovan said. “They sold off the entire vintage because they did not think the wines would be where they want them to be.”

Robert Brittan, who helped make Stags’ Leap Winery famous before moving back WINEPRESSNW.COM

ashland home to Oregon’s Willamette Valley, is their winemaking consultant. Until their production facility is finished, the wines will continue to be made in Medford by Herb Quady and Brian Gruber at Barrel 42.

The Irvine vines are managed by respected Results Partners, based in the Willamette Valley, and construction on the Irvine Family Vineyard production facility and tasting room began this spring.

Doug’s sister, Kelly, and her husband, Duane Roberts, are partners in the project.

(Duane restored and owns the historic Mission Inn in Riverside, Calif., after making his fortune by creating the frozen burrito in the late 1950s.) And one of the Irvines’ daughters works for Gallo, so there may already be a succession plan in play.

Dana Campbell Vineyards is owned by Patrick Dana Flannery and Paula Campbell, who moved to Ashland and bought land in 1997 before transitioning their pasture to vineyards in 2005. Their 15 acres are planted to Tempranillo, Malbec and Viognier, and they’ve since added Sauvignon Blanc, Mourvédre, Carménère, Verdejo and Tannat.

Linda Donovan at Pallet Wine Co. in Medford makes their wines.

“When I came to Ashland from Sonoma in 2000 to work in the orchards for my sister, I think there were four wineries at that time and there really weren’t any vineyard experts,” said Donovan, who is not related to the Oregon Wine Board director. “It was really challenging. In the last 10 years, we’ve made so many improvements in just grape growing, or I should say wine growing.

There are so many educated and passionate people now in this area who are really helping to lift everybody in Southern Oregon.”

Grizzly Peak Winery’s award-winning program, also headed up by Linda Donovan, shines with Pinot Noir, Syrah, Tempranillo, Malbec, Chardonnay and Rhône whites from estate vines.

Just north of Ashland near the town of Talent is Paschal Winery. Roy Paschal launched the winery in 1998, sold it in 2009, then took it over again in 2013. The history of talented winemaking includes Gus Janeway, Joe Dobbes and now Bridgeview’s Rene Eichmann. The lineup of wines includes Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Viognier.

WINEPRESSN W .C O M

Outside investment in Ashland-area wineries, restaurants and hotels is substantial, but successful agriculture-based families also are using tourism-driven businesses to diversify their holdings.

FEATURE

A prime example are Mike and Laura Naumes, multigeneration orchardists and farmers based in the Rogue Valley. Both are recent inductees into the Oregon State University Agriculture Hall of Fame, and they’ve

Founding winemaker and co-owner of Weisinger Family Winery, John Weisinger checks tonnage harvest. Photo by Mark Mularz, Courtesy of Weisinger Family Winery.

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FEATURE

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begun to transition some of their orchards into vineyards. Last year, they launched a 24,000-square-foot winery near the Rogue Valley Mall, also with guidance from Robert Brittan.

“Walla Walla is now a destination because of wine, and Southern Oregon is becoming

one, but this region needs to figure out how to couple Crater Lake, the Redwoods, the Rogue River, Jacksonville and Ashland as a tourism bundle,” Jones said. “You could even throw cannabis in there. This area may be the best cannabis growing region in the U.S. It will be interesting to see how that develops.”

The sign may be hard to read but the building that houses Amuse restaurant is hard to miss. Photo by Andrea Johnson, Andrea Johnson Photography

LODGING For a true wine-country experience, there’s the Weisinger Vineyard Cottage. Pinot Noir grows just outside the cozy, remodeled onebedroom farmhouse that’s available for a two-night stay.

One of the gems of wine touring in Ashland is the Ashland Springs Hotel, a ninestory hotel built in 1925 that is Southern Oregon’s equivalent of The Davenport in Spokane, Wash., and the Marcus Whitman in Walla Walla. Doug and Becky Neuman purchased the hotel in 1998 and their $10 million restoration, renovation and modernization program created 70 rooms. Their Neuman Hotel Group now owns and operates a number of properties in the Bear Creek Valley, and the Naumes family partners on some projects.

The tiny Ashland Creek Inn offers 10 suites ranging from $140 to $450 per night, depending upon the season.

Perhaps no spot in the Pacific Northwest is a better fit for the bed-and-breakfast scene than Ashland, and many of them are within a pleasant walk of Lithia Park. For a getaway, the highly acclaimed Country Willows Bed and Breakfast is set among 5 acres of gardens with a heated pool and launching spot for hiking.

Concertgoers who also want to attend the renowned Britt Festival may prefer to use nearby Jacksonville as their base. Élan Guest Suites and Art Gallery ranks among the premier luxury lodging options in the Pacific Northwest. It’s a stone’s throw to the quaint downtown and a number of Britt headliners are Cherie Reneau’s regular guests.

FOOD

Couple enjoys a glass of wine overlooking vineyards at Rogue Valley Winery near Ashland, Southern Oregon Photo by Andrea Johnson, Andrea Johnson Photography

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W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • S u m m e r 2 0 1 6

Residents and tourists will agree that Ashland is home to a remarkably high concentration of stellar restaurants.

“We had high-end chefs and recognition for the restaurants, and that culinary component started embracing local wine more and more as the wines became more recognized,” Jones said. “It was a great coupling of industries. The farm-to-table experience has exploded in the last 10 years, and the restaurants are serving a lot of Southern Oregon wines in Ashland now.”

Among the reasons to stay at the Winchester Inn, founded and operated by the Gibbs family as a B&B and restaurant since WINEPRESSNW.COM

ashland 1983, is the opportunity to enjoy both breakfast and dinner at the adjacent Alchemy Restaurant and Bar. “The Gibbs family was the first to give us the opportunity to place our wines in Ashland,” said Eric Weisinger.

Another storied hotel/restaurant combination is The Peerless Hotel and Peerless Restaurant & Bar in the Railroad District.

Michael Donovan helped elevate the Ashland restaurant scene during his 30 years of operating acclaimed Chateaulin. He sold his interest in the restaurant prior to managing RoxyAnn Winery in Medford, and his wife, Crissy Barnett Donovan, founded, owns and operates the Peerless. Her new chef is David Taub, the Culinary Institute of America graduate who owned Chateaulin with Michael. A garden is all that separates the two-story hotel — built in 1900 — and the lively restaurant.

Among the other restaurants in Ashland that embrace regional wines include Amuse, Loft Brasserie, Lark’s Home Kitchen Cuisine inside the Ashland Springs Hotel, “meat centric” Smithfields and sister property Smithfields Pub & Pies.

Those worthy of the short drive beyond Ashland include Bambu Asian Cafe & Wine Bar and Elements in Medford. In Jacksonville, there’s Déjà vu Bistro & Wine Bar, the iconic Jacksonville Inn and the on-premise restaurant at DANCIN Vineyards.

“My wife and I still have a bucket list of restaurants around Ashland that we haven’t made it to yet,” Jones said.

patrons of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival.

As the quality of local wines has increased, so has the interest of buyers for Ashland Wine Cellar and Liquid Assets Wine Bar. There’s also a good regional selection at Ashland grocery stores such as Market of Choice and Shop ‘n’ Kart.

FEATURE

Two of the Pacific Northwest’s leading destinations for wine lovers are less than 30 minutes from Ashland. There is the historic wine shop at the Jacksonville Inn and the popular Rogue Creamery in Central Point, which offers a solid selection of regional wines.

Salmon is among many of the fine entrees offered by Amuse restaurant chef and owner, Eric Brown. Photo by Andrea Johnson, Andrea Johnson Photography

OTHER ADULT BEVERAGES Ask any winemaker, and many will tell you it takes good beer to make great wine. There is a trio of outlets for craft beer in Ashland: Caldera Brewing, Standing Stone Brewing Co., and the Growler Guys. Common Black Brewing is scheduled to open in Medford.

There’s also an amazing culture of coffee and coffee shops in Ashland with roasters such as Case, Noble and Rogue Valley Roasting. They have such a following that it’s not uncommon for savvy diners to ask which local roaster they use — and then walk out if they don’t hear what they want.

WINE SHOPS Ashland wine merchants long have shopped for well-heeled, well-traveled WINEPRESSN W .C O M

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FEATURE

ashland

Grizzly Peak offers a picturesque backdrop for the region’s vineyards

Photo by Graham Lewis, Courtesy of Ashland Chamber of Commerce

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ashland OTHER ACTIVITIES It’s no surprise Ashland provides a wide variety of recreational opportunities considering the climate and geology as well as it being a college town, a home to affluent residents and a creative culture with the theater.

So while tourists are focused on attending the plays, the locals are supporting Ashland Tuesday Growers & Crafters Market, the Oregon Cabaret Theater, First Friday Art Walk staged by the Ashland Gallery Association, Schneider Art Museum on the campus of Southern Oregon University, the Ashland Art Center, which offers classes, exhibits and unique gifts, and the ScienceWorks HandsOn Museum. During the summer, Valley View Orchard operates as a popular U-pick farm for cherries, apples, and, of course, pears.

Special events include the Ashland Fourth of July Parade and Halloween Parade, made especially festive by those employed at the theater.

Just beyond Ashland are two attractions that also have helped make Southern Oregon famous: the Harry & David Factory Tour in Medford and the Britt Music & Arts Festival in Jacksonville. The EXPO in Central Point serves as home to the Jackson County Fair (late July), the Wild Rogue Pro Rodeo (early June), the Southern Oregon Harvest Fair & BrewFest (mid-September) and Holiday Market (mid-November).

Outdoors enthusiasts will enjoy hiking at Grizzly Peak just east of Ashland, hitting the slopes at Mount Ashland Ski Area uphill from Weisinger Family Winery along Interstate 5, fishing or rafting the Rogue River or experiencing Crater Lake National Park.

Many wine tourists also enjoy golf, and there are four options within an hour’s drive, including Oak Knoll (Ashland), Eagle Point, Centennial (Medford) and the Arnold Palmer-designed Running Y Resort in Klamath Falls.

Need a rubdown? Ashland is home to three spas: Blue Giraffe, Chozu Bath and Tea Gardens, and Waterstone Spa in the Ashland Springs Hotel.

WINEPRESSN W .C O M

GETTING TO ASHLAND

FEATURE

WHEN TO VISIT

It’s 15 miles from the California border and 2 ½ hours from the Pacific Ocean.

And while one might believe that living in Ashland would make it difficult for Greg Jones to travel the globe on behalf of climate research, that’s not the case.

While his campus office is 350 miles north of San Francisco along Interstate 5 and 285 miles south of Portland, he’s a 25-minute drive to Rogue Valley International-Medford Airport. That allows him a connection to Portland, San Francisco or Salt Lake City via carriers such as Alaska Airlines, Delta and United.

Visitors can also use Cascade Airport Shuttle for transportation to Ashland.

Need help setting up a wine tour in Ashland? Recommended operators include Bravo Outings, Express Limo and WineHopper.

Ashland boasts 265 days of sun, which makes it inviting for wine touring spring, summer and fall.

Just how popular is the Oregon Shakespeare Festival? Tickets for 2017 shows have been on sale for months. The 2016 season began Feb. 19 and ends Oct. 30. Pricing for members indicates the high season begins June 20.

The Britt Festival opens in early June with its Taste of Summer event featuring Southern Oregon wineries. This year’s concert lineup includes Diana Ross, Lyle Lovett and the Gipsy Kings. The series ends Sept. 20.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great North-

west Wine, an award-winning wine journalism company.

Learn more about Pacific Northwest wine at GreatNorthwestWine.com

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FEATURE

southwest washington

Winery group seeking AVA status

BY VIKI EIERDAM

W

ashington State is currently home to 14 official American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). An AVA says to the world that area has a unique growing climate; produces terroir-driven varietals; and feels passionately enough about its contribution to winemaking to go through the painstaking process of being vetted by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). If a group of winemakers in Clark County have their say, the Southwest Washington AVA will be added to that distinguished list.

The recently-formed Southwest Washington Winery Association (SWWA) is composed of 11 charter members who hope to strengthen their visibility in Washington State and brand Southwest Washington as the newest emerging wine region. Those charter members are Burnt Bridge Cellars, Cellar 55 Tasting Room, Confluence Winery, English

Estate Winery, Emanar Cellars, Heisen House Vineyards, Koi Pond Cellars, Moulton Falls Winery, Olequa Cellars, Rezabek Vineyards and Stavalaura Vineyards.

There are other benefits to AVA recognition. Jennifer English-Wallenberg, daughter of the late Carl D. English, took over the oldest operating winery in Clark County along with her brother, Carl S. English, when their father passed away a few years ago. Just north of the banks of the Columbia River, English Estate Winery harvests from their 10 acres planted predominantly in pinot noir and sauvignon blanc with small amounts of cabernet sauvignon, gewürztraminer and semillon. Many of their pinot noir vines date back to 1980.

“Ninety nine percent of what we bottle is estate grown, but we can’t write estate grown on the label because we’re not in an official, designated AVA,” said English-Wallenberg.

No surprise then that English-Wallenberg sees the establishment of an AVA as a priority for the SWWA. A total of 17 wineries operate in Clark County, with five more to open in the next year and a dozen vineyards dotting the landscape—one with pinot noir dating back to 1974. Roughly 120 acres are under vines, but the group recognizes that number needs to increase for Southwest Washington to be viewed as a strong grapegrowing region.

Michelle Parker, co-owner of Koi Pond, said, “Number one, we need more vines in the ground here. A lot of us are small wineries and we’re self-funded so having the capital to buy acreage and plant vines is a challenge.”

It is widely agreed upon by SWWA members that their area has a similar growing climate to the northern part of the Willamette Valley and, as such, pinot noir reigns supreme. Rows of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris,

Southwest Washington Winery Assoc. board members are (left to right) Mark Mahan of Burnt Bridge Cellars, Michele Bloomquist of Heisen House Vineyards, Roger Rezabek of Rezabek Vineyard, Jennifer English- Wallenberg of English Estate Winery and Brian Tansy of Olequa Cellars.

Richard Duval Contributing Photographer 26

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S u m m e r 2 016

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

southwest washington FEATURE ···

Southwest Washington Winery Assoc.

Burnt Bridge Cellars - Vancouver’s only urban winery focusing on small lot Rhône and Bordeaux varietal wines; burntbridgecellars.com Cellar 55 Tasting Room - cooperative tasting room featuring Basel Cellars, Five Star Cellars and VanArnam Vineyards from Eastern Washington; cellar55tastingroom.com Confluence Vineyards & Winery - Specializing in French varietals with grapes sourced predominantly from Walla Walla and aged in premium oak; confluencewinery.net Emanar Cellars – Spanish-style tasting room and authentic tapas bar with nano production of own Spanish varietals; emanarcellars.com English Estate Winery – Ten acres of vines include Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sémillon, Gewürztraminer and are dominated by Pinot Noir—some of which dates back to 1980; over 90 percent of their wines and fortified nectars (fortified with their Pinot Noir brandy) are estate-grown; englishestatewinery.com Heisen House Vineyards – Property registered as a National and State Historic site; growing Gamay Noir, Gewürztraminer, Tempranillo, Orange Muscat & Pinot Noir; heisenhousevineyards.com Koi Pond Cellars – Focusing on premier grape sourcing. i.e. Merlot from Dry Creek AVA, Pinot Noir from Dundee Hills and Cabernet Sauvignon from Walla Walla; koipondcellars.com Moulton Falls Winery – All grapes sourced from Eastern Washington including the famed Red Mountain AVA; team up with the Chelatchie Prairie Railroad to offer wine runs throughout the year; moultonfallswinery.com Olequa Cellars – Growing two acres of Maréchal Foch, which he’s harvested for a Rosé and intends to make Beaujolais-style wine; olequa.com Rezabek Vineyards – This 10 acre plot of land is planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier—a tell-tale sign of bubbles. rezabekvineyards.com Stavalaura Vineyards and Winery – The newest Clark County winery, Golubok (a southern Russian grape), Zweigelt-Rebe (a northern European varietal), and Pinot Noir vines are being grown. stavalaura.com

Syrah, Orange Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Petit Verdot, Siegerebe, Gewürztraminer, Maréchal Foch, Barbara, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Meunier are being tended, as well.

According to Roger Rezabek, owner of Rezabek Vineyards and president of the new association, looking outside Clark County to add vines is being considered. That could W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Although most of the wines bottled by the members of the association are estate grown, they can’t state that on the label because the region is not yet received AVA designation.

Photo by Richard Duval Contributing Photographer

encompass as far north as the southern border of the Puget Sound AVA— including the eight wineries found up the I-5 corridor from Longview to Tenino —and as far east as the western border of the Columbia Gorge AVA. In 2006, Carl D. English had compiled and revised extensive climate and soil research in a work entitled Winegrowing in Clark County, Washington; As Good As It Gets. He was convinced, as is Rezabek, that the clay loam soil found in the area was similar to famed growing regions in France.

“The soil is peppered with pebbles and stones, which allow it to hold rainfall in summer,” Rezabek said. “We have what would be considered a cool growing season.

We definitely have a volcanic influence which adds minerals to the soil and character to the grapes and low pH in the 5.5-6 range.”

The task of gathering climate, soil, geol-

ogy and a myriad of other required statistics can be daunting but English-Wallenberg is spurred by a deeply personal reason.

“My dad had wanted an AVA in this county forever,” English-Wallenberg said. “I don’t think there’s any reason not to. An AVA can be as small as less than a square mile. I think we already meet the requirements in terms of viticultural activity.”

More immediate association goals include increasing membership and marketing their brand. The SWWA has adopted the industry standard of offering tiers of membership which will allow opportunity for businesses, organizations and individuals interested in supporting the growth of the wine industry to come alongside the association. Examples include new and existing wineries, grape growers, cideries, distilleries, meaderies, hotels, restaurants and higher education.

That committee is actively developing a presentation to illustrate what the SWWA is

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FEATURE

southwest washington

about and the benefits of joining while the marketing committee focuses on retooling. A new website is expected to launch by the end of April; a revamped logo will be introduced; a stronger social media presence is anticipated; and eye-catching group advertising for upcoming events like Memorial Weekend will be included.

Currently the Clark County area is home to a meadery, cidery, distillery (with another opening by this fall) and approximately 20 breweries. Rezabek explained that the value other craft beverage makers can add to the organization and the value the organization can have for them is synergistic.

“We often find that someone who enjoys wine enjoys other beverages so it does make sense for tasting rooms —regardless of what kind they are—to be part of the bigger picture,” Rezabek said.

For more information, go to www.swwawine.com.

VIKI EIERDAM is

a freelance writer based in Vancouver Wash. who writes a food and wine blog “corks and Forks” for the Vancouver Columbian newspaper.

Knudsen Vineyards is honored to be recognized as the WinePress Northwest 2016 Oregon Winery to Watch. For over two generations, the Knudsen family has been actively engaged in the growth of the Oregon wine industry. We hope you’ll enjoy, as we do, the connections you make when sharing our award-winning wines with friends and family. Please visit www.knudsenvineyards.com to learn more about our wines and join our mailing list.

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

EXTRAORDINARY WINES. UNPARALLELED DESTINATION. A Columbia Gorge winery that sits just above the Columbia River with an unbelievable view of Mount Hood. Our boutique winery takes pride in producing high-quality wines sourced from the finest vineyards in the region. Visit our delightful new tasting room for an experience worth the spectacular journey through the stunning landscape of the Columbia Gorge.

3 Avery Rd, (Avery Park off Hwy 14), Wishram, WA www.jacobwilliamswinery.com (541) 645-0462

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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FEATURE

lost river winer y

Lost River Winery, a gem off the beaten path

BY DAN RADIL

A

t first glance, Winthrop might seem like an unlikely place for a winery.

Located in north central Washington’s Methow Valley, this small town of about 400 residents is a good two to three hour drive from any sizable city, with restricted access from the west when the North Cascades Highway is typically closed from November to April of each year.

And yet, Lost River Winery has found a home and is thriving in this sparsely populated area that seems to serve recreationalists better than those looking for a well-made Washington wine.

John Morgan and Barbara House started the winery in 2002 after building a home in the nearby community of Mazama in 1994.

Prior to that time, Morgan worked as an engineering technician for Whatcom County, where the two had lived in Bellingham since the mid-1980’s.

Morgan’s exposure to wines began at an early age. “My dad was a wine collector, first with French wines and later California wines down in the Bay Area in the early 70’s,” he says.

But it wasn’t until a 1999 trip to Dutch Henry Winery, located on the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley, that Morgan even considering getting into the wine industry. “Dutch Henry was a real laid back place where they had their wine tasting on a card table…and I thought, ‘this is an environment I could work in,’” he recalls.

··· Lost River Winery

26 Highway 20 Winthrop, WA 98862 (509) 996-2888

Hours: Summer: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Daily, 11 a.m to 6 p.m.

Friday Spring and Fall: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thurs. through Mon. Winter: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.,Fri., Sat., Mon. and Sunday on holiday weekends Lostriverwinery.com 30

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S u m m e r 2 016

Lost River Winery’s assistant winemaker and director of marketing, Liam Doyle in the winery tasting room.

Richard Duval

While embarking on his new profession, Morgan was able to draw on his prior experience as an engineer in road design and building bridges. “My schooling included classes in agronomy and soil sciences as well as chemistry and biology, which gave me a good background pre-winemaking,” he says. After completing additional courses at U.C. Davis, he was set to take the plunge as a full-fledged winemaker.

After the first two years of operation, House’s son, Liam Doyle, came on board with the winery in 2004. He now works as Director of Sales and Marketing, Assistant Winemaker, “and also light bulb changer, floor sweeper and weed puller in the wine garden,” he says with a laugh.

Both Morgan and Doyle agree that although the winery’s somewhat isolated location has its challenges it also has some distinct advantages.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

lost river winer y FEATURE “The shoulder seasons can be slow, but we have some great winter and summer seasons,” notes Morgan. “We get the four-wheel drive/ Volvo set with skiers in the winter and we’re the second home to folks (vacationing) in the summer.”

Doyle notes that being the only winery in the Methow Valley gives it somewhat of a “claim to fame” in that part of the state.

“We’re the first and last stop on the North Cascades Wine Trail,” he says, pointing out that the Methow Valley also “has the nation’s largest network of groomed cross-country ski trails. We get an enormous amount of people…who travel here for outdoor adventures who are also wine advocates and wine enthusiasts.”

Even the annual closure of the highway that runs through the western-bordering Cascade Mountains doesn’t act as much of a detriment. “For us, it’s a nice balance, in fact.

The slow time gives us a chance to catch up on bottling and cellar work,” Doyle says.

Drawing on some of Washington’s finest vineyards is a key element to the winery’s success. From his Winthrop location, Morgan notes, “it’s a lot of driving, for sure. But it’s an advantage to somebody like me who’s not using all estate fruit to pick and choose sites to match what you’re trying to grow.”

He cites Connor Lee Vineyard as an excellent source for his Merlot and Pepper Bridge for his Cabernet Sauvignon, and also draws on several other vineyards including Les Collines, Rosebud, Spring Creek, Wallula, Weinbau, and Willow Crest, to name a few.

Lost River’s current white wine releases include a Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Semillon, Late Harvest Semillon, and Rainshadow, a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Red wines include Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Merlot, and proprietary blend labels “Cedarosa” (a combination of Cabernet Franc and Merlot), and “Massif ” (Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon).

Morgan also seems to have an affinity for a couple of Italian varietals, Nebbiolo and Barbera. “Nebbiolo is really an interesting wine. Bright color, clarity…even the name sounds like a jewel,” he says.

He credits Woodward Canyon’s Rick Small for turning him on to Barbera. “Rick has a small production Barbera out of his estate vineyard and it’s awesome. He showed me what was possible (with this grape) in Washington. It does well here. It’s high in acid, robust, and deeply colored.”

Lost River’s number one seller in the tasting room? According to Doyle, “it’s a refill on a one-liter growler…a red table wine that we only sell in the Methow Valley.” Aptly labeled, “Community Red,” the multi-varietal blend in the reusable glass container cuts down on bottling and distribution costs and has become a favorite of locals and regular passers-through alike.

“Our tasting room is like a hub for socializing,” says Doyle. Often the first stop for travelers heading east from Bellingham, the winery has become a place where “people like to pick up some wine and check in with us on the latest area information.”

The winery’s Bellingham connection recently continued with the addition of tasting room manager Ceara Bakke in April. Bakke was wine director at a major Bellingham grocer for 15 years before making the move east to Lost River.

And while the wines have maintained a strong presence in Bellingham and North Puget Sound they’re also available in Seattle

and Portland-area grocers, restaurants and wine shops, and, of course, many smaller venues in and around the Methow Valley.

Production runs about 5,000 cases annually; a fairly significant output from a winery that some might say is located out in the middle of nowhere.

“It’s not Walla Walla and it’s not Woodinville and it’s not even Lake Chelan,” Morgan says. “But we use the best barrels we can find…and our prices top out at the high $20’s. We think (we produce) high quality wines that are competitively priced, and we get that feedback a lot that that’s a strong point in our wines.”

DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com.

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Head Winemaker Joe Ibrahim

Become a Winery Owner Be a part of a local winery and help build Oregon’s wine future. wvv.com/ownership 8800 Enchanted Way SE Turner, OR 97392 503-588-9463 stock.offering@wvv.com

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W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

DRINK SOME WINE & SOLVE A CRIME 2016 Tri-Cities Crime Stoppers presents the 4th annual Who Done It? Drive. Pick up clues as you taste wine at participating Prosser and Red Mountain wineries.

Saturday, August 13, 2016 • Check in 10am Southridge Event Center, Kennewick • Return by 5:30pm

Registration includes stops and tasting at 5 wineries and the Walter Clore Center, where food will be provided and you can bid on silent auction items.

Participating Wineries

14 Hands Frichette Fidelitas Monte Scarlatto Daven Lore Tucannon Pontin Del Roza Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center J. Bookwalter Winery Title Sponsor

Event Registration & Bus Transportation $60.00 $70.00 after August 1st Wine Glass Painting Pre Event, 8/6/16 $20.00 (Limited Space so register early) Group Sales Information or Questions - Call 509-582-1351

Tickets available at tricitiescrimestoppers.org

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ASSETS HELD INSIDE RETIREMENT PLANS

• 401 (K) • Pension Plans • Traditional IRAs Distributions Generally Taxed at: Ordinary Income Tax Rates 40.5%

ASSETS HELD OUTSIDE RETIREMENT PLANS

• Real Estate • Stocks • Mutual Funds Generally Taxed at: Capital Gains Tax Rates 23.8%

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TOM DONCASTER Telling It Like It Is, Caring Like No One Else

Thomas Doncaster

Chartered Life Underwriter (CLU) Chartered Wealth Manager (CWM)

Doncaster Insurance and Financial Services 1020 N. Center Parkway, Ste. C, Kennewick

Kevin, Tom and Jonathan Doncaster Office of Supervisory Jurisdiction: 12636 High Bluff Dr., Ste. 100 • San Diego, CA 922130 Phone: 858-436-3180 • Fax: 858-481-9033

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Phone: (509) 735-9518 • Fax: (509) 735-9503 Tdoncaster@fgrr.com • www.tomdoncaster.com

Monday-Thursday 9am-4pm Doncaster Insurance & Financial Services, Inc. 1020 N. Center Parkway #C Kennewick, WA 99336 www.tomdoncaster.com Securities and advisory services offered through Independent Financial Group, LLC a registered broker/dealer an Investment Advisor and member of FINRA and SIPC. This is not an offer to sell securities, which may be done only after proper delivery of a prospectus and client suitability has been reviewed and determined. Doncaster Insurance & Financial Services, Inc and Independent Financial Group, LLC are unafiliated entities. OSJ Branch: 12671 High Bluff Dr. Suite 200 San Diego, CA 92130 Office Hours of Operation for Doncaster Insurance & Financial Services, Inc: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 4 pm (Noon - 1 pm Lunch)

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WINE P R E SS NORT H W E S T:

Northwest Riesling continues rise in quality

B

BY ANDY PERDUE

ack in the early days of the modern Washington wine industry, a lot of Riesling was planted. Today, it is again a dominant grape in Washington, but it also is thriving throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Riesling is considered one of the finest and most versatile wine grapes in the world. It can be produced in styles from bone dry to ultra-sweet. It can pair with everything from grilled steaks to spicy Asian dishes.

This spring, we blind-tasted more than 100 examples of Riesling from Washington, Oregon and Idaho, and as a group, they were beautiful, with our professional judges awarding our top “Outstanding!” rating to more than 30 percent of the wines they tasted.

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All of this should prime your taste buds for this summer’s Riesling Rendezvous, a three-day symposium that includes tastings of Rieslings from throughout the world and seminars that provide an in-depth look at the world’s best white wine grape.

The Riesling Rendezvous occurs once every three years, and the 2016 edition will be July 17-19, with the Grand Tasting taking place at Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville and the seminars at Bell Harbor Conference Center in downtown Seattle. Tickets are available at www.rieslingrendezvous.com.

In our blind tasting, the wine that finished on top is the Riesling that launched the American Riesling renaissance some 15 years ago. Eroica is a

collaboration between Germany’s Ernst Loosen and Washington’s Chateau Ste. Michelle. When the inaugural 1999 vintage was released in 2000, it led to a push for more U.S. Rieslings, particularly from the West Coast, New York’s Finger Lakes and Michigan.

Today, Chateau Ste. Michelle is the single largest producer of Riesling in the world, making more of it than any other winery anywhere — including Germany.

Our judges for this tasting were: April Reddout, wine program director for the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center in Prosser, Wash.; Kristine Bono, tasting room manager for Goose Ridge Estate Winery in Richland, Wash.; Gregg McConnell, editor and publisher of Wine Press Northwest magazine; Richard Larsen, research winemaker for Washington State University in Richland; Flint Nelson, owner/winemaker of Wit Cellars in Prosser; Brad Smith, winemaking instructor for Yakima Valley Community College in Grandview, Wash.; Ken Robertson, columnist for Wine Press Northwest; and Mike Rader, tasting facilitator for Great Northwest Wine, Kennewick, Wash.

The judging was facilitated by Eric Degerman and Andy Perdue of Great Northwest Wine and took place at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick.

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riesling TASTING RESULTS

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Prices are suggested retail.

Here are the results:

Outstanding!

Chateau Ste. Michelle $20 2014 Eroica Riesling, Columbia Valley Germany’s Ernst Loosen and Washington’s Bob Bertheau team up to create this wine, combing W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

through dozens of favorite Riesling vineyards and sorting through more than 100 separately fermented lots of wine to craft what they believe to be the purest form of Washington Riesling. And they’ve nailed it again. Aromas of apple, pear, lime zest and spice lead to rapturous flavors of ginger, honey, pineapple and Meyer sweet lemon. Clear, bell-ringing acidity perfectly backs the fruit, lifting this to a stunning farewell.

(28,000 cases; 12% alc.)

Côte Bonneville $22 2015 DuBrul Vineyard Estate Riesling, Yakima Valley One of Washington’s top vineyards produced the estate grapes for this stunning Riesling. Aromas of honeysuckle, pear, apricot and rose petal give way to flavors of candied ginger, apple and pineapple on the palate. It’s a juicy wine with just the right amount of residual sugar to round the edges of the bright acidity.

(271 cases; 10% alc.)

Best buy!

Pacific Rim Winemakers $11 2014 Sweet Riesling, Columbia Valley The team at Pacific Rim near Red Mountain is one of the country’s leading experts on Riesling, as this is the primary focus. That proficiency shows

up in this delicious wine. Aromas of a dusty apple orchard, orange zest and ginger lead to round, lush flavors of poached pear drizzled with lavender honey. Baking spices and a hint of pineapple upside-down cake remain through the lengthy finish. The residual sugar — 7.6% — is tempered by remarkable acidity.

(19,866 cases; 8.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Latah Creek Wine Cellars $10 2015 Familigia Vineyards Riesling, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley This historic Spokane winery relies on fruit from the relatively cool Ancient Lakes area of the Columbia Valley — a region quickly gaining renown for producing some of Washington’s best white grapes. This clean, crisp wine shows off aromas of lime zest and orange oil. On the palate, the purity of fruit veritably shouts “This is Riesling!” as it gives way to flavors of apple, pear and honeydew melon. Energetic acidity provides remarkable backbone through the lengthy finish.

(619 cases; 10.5% alc.)

Holloran Vineyard Wines

$18

2012 Riesling, Willamette Valley Oregon’s Willamette Valley has proved to be a beautiful location to grow world-class Riesling, S u m m e r 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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with the only downside being that there’s little room amid all the Pinot Noir. But when we find some, it can often be glorious, as this example reveals. Aromas of starfruit, lemon and lime lead to flavors that put the spotlight on apple and something that reminds us of powdered sugar. The acidity is ample without being assertive, providing a balance that leaves a contented smile.

(190 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Noir. In this winery’s vineyard, however, a bit of Riesling is planted, and the resulting wine is glorious. Exotic aromas of tropical fruit, apple and clove lead to a lovely entry of crisp apple, dried mango and mint. It is a complex wine with notes of orange blossom and underlying minerality. The crisp acidity snaps everything into focus throughout.

(200 cases; 12.6% alc.)

Walnut City WineWorks $24 2014 Riesling, Dundee Hills In the northern Willamette Valley, the Dundee Hills are home to some of the region’s oldest and most revered vines — most of them Pinot Noir. So it is a delight to discover this gorgeous Riesling amid them, and it is as delicious as it is distinctive.

Aromas of jasmine blossoms, lemon and Golden Delicious apple lead to flavors of peach, pineapple and a whisper of ginger. The bright acidity arrives by midpalate and lingers through a long, juicy finish.

(108 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Best buy!

Pacific Rim Winemakers $11 2014 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley This delicious and affordable Riesling sports no perceptible sweetness, with the only impression of such coming from the ripeness of the fruit. Notes of white peach, papaya and honeysuckle linger on the nose, while flavors of dried apricot, ginger and Granny Smith apple are backed by bright, balanced acidity. A delicious wine to pair with charcuterie, linguine in a cream sauce or baked Cornish game hens.

(15,000 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Styring Vineyards $20 2014 Whimsy Estate Riesling, Ribbon Ridge Ribbon Ridge is the Pacific Northwest’s smallest AVA, and it is renowned for its world-class Pinot

Chehalem Wines $29 2014 Corral Creek Vineyards Estate Riesling, Chehalem Mountains The winemaking team at Chehalem has a wellearned reputation for some of the West Coast’s

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best Rieslings, and this effort from estate grapes further burnishes that impression. Mouthwatering aromas of peach pie and citrus lead to flavors of Granny Smith apple and white pepper. Mild residual sugar rounds out the stunning acidity, leaving us with a finish that imparts no bitterness, only a smile.

(171 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Sleight of Hand Cellars $18 2014 Evergreen Vineyard The Magician, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Evergreen Vineyard, part of the Milbrandt family operation, is the shining star amid Riesling vineyards in Washington. Acquiring grapes from here all but guarantees success, and that is true with this wine from a Walla Walla Valley producer.

Entrancing aromas of cardamom, pear and apple blossoms lead to flavors of juicy pear, lime and Mandarin orange, all backed by crisp acidity. It’s no trick to make this wine disappear quickly.

(1,000 cases; 12% alc.)

Best buy!

College Cellars $12 2015 Sagemoor Vineyards Riesling, Columbia Valley The winemaking team at Walla Walla Community College, led by winemaker Tim Donahue,

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crafted this superb Riesling from one of Washington’s oldest and most important vineyards. Aromas of peach, lychee and minerality lead to flavors of apple, lemon and Asian pear. The perfect balance of fruit, acidity and mild alcohol make this a perfect wine to pair with seared scallops, grilled sausages or sauteéd mushrooms.

(60 cases; 11.5% alc.)

Sawtooth Winery $18 2014 Classic Fly Series Riesling, Snake River Valley Idaho’s Snake River Valley has long been a superb location for Riesling, thanks to its high altitudes and cool nights during harvest. This effort from winemaker Meredith Smith is a great example of the potential here, with aromas of lime, crisp apple and minerality. On the palate, this is beautifully balanced with notes of apricot, peach and a hint of ginger.

(180 cases; 12.3% alc.)

Best buy!

Saviah Cellars $15 2014 The Jack Riesling, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Richard Funk is best known for his luscious red wines, but he has long shown a deft touch with Riesling. This is a beautiful and expressive example, thanks to aromas of Asian

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pear, apple, and minerality. On the palate, it unveils flavors of lime, clove, Mandarin orange and ripe pear. Its piercing acidity provides clarity throughout. Enjoy this with fried trout or grilled halibut topped with a mango salsa.

(1,394 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Westport Winery $26 2014 Elk River Riesling, Yakima Valley Using grapes from famed Red Willow Vineyard, winemaker Dana Roberts has crafted one of his best Rieslings to date. Aromas of dusty minerality, apricot and pineapple lead to appealing flavors of ripe pear, Ginger Gold apple and pleasing spice.

This is a friendly wine that is ready to drink now with bowl of clam chowder.

(103 cases; 12% alc.)

Anne Amie Vineyards $20 2013 Estate Dry Riesling, Yamhill-Carlton Using vines planted in 1979 — surely among the oldest Riesling in Oregon — winemaker Thomas Houseman has crafted a remarkable dry Riesling that is as beautiful as it is complex. Aromas of butterscotch, baked peach and Golden Delicious apple lead to rich flavors of orchard fruit backed by brisk, spicy acidity.

(850 cases; 11.7% alc.)

Schmidt Family Vineyards $23 2014 Riesling, Applegate Valley Cal and Judy Schmidt own and operate this winery near Grants Pass, Ore., and all of their wines are impressive. This is a classic Riesling, thanks to aromas of jasmine, Asian pear and apple.

On the palate, Granny Smith apple, lemon and lime highlight the flavors, all backed by crisp acidity that leads to a memorable finish.

(153 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Poet’s Leap $20 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley This international collaboration between Germany’s Armin Diel and Walla Walla’s Gilles Nicault is part of Long Shadows Vintners, a project by former Ste. Michelle boss Allen Shoup, and Poet’s Leap is becoming one of the consistently great Washington Rieslings. This example provides aromas of Granny Smith apple and lime, followed by flavors of crisp apple, lemon pepper and Asian pear. The medium body is backed by elegant acidity that gives way to a lengthy finish.

(4,240 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Chehalem Wines $22 2014 Three Vineyard Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley Second-generation winemaker Wynne PetersonS u m m e r 2 016 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Nedry blends Riesling from her family’s three estate vineyards in three different northern Willamette Valley AVAs. The result is a bright, complex and age-worthy white with aromas of Asian pear, orange blossom and minerality. On the palate, flavors of Mandarin orange and apple are backed with acidity that adds a bit of spritz to the backbone.

(602 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Best buy!

Waterbrook Winery $12 2015 Reserve Riesling, Columbia Valley One of Walla Walla’s oldest producers, Waterbrook has long made affordable and delicious Rieslings. This is a classic, thanks to aromas of Key lime juice, spearmint and Bartlett pear. Flavors of sweet lime, Granny Smith apple and tropical fruit are backed by startling acidity. This off-dry Riesling is perfect with spicy Thai, Vietnamese or Indian dishes.

(1,200 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Best buy!

A to Z Wineworks $15 2015 Riesling, Oregon A to Z, one of Oregon’s largest wine companies, has crafted a superb and classic Riesling. It opens with beautiful aromas of sweet spices, Mandarin

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orange and crisp apple. On the palate, superb flavors of honeydew melon, orange and ripe apple are joined by hints of tropical fruit. It’s all backed by bracing acidity.

(7,435 cases; 12% alc.)

Best buy!

Washington Hills $9 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley This longtime Washington winery dates back to the ‘80s and has long been known for its delicious wines at fair prices. Piercing aromas of crisp sliced apple and spice give way to flavors of mango, apple juice and peach. It’s off-dry at 3% residual sugar, but that sweetness is tempered by crisp acidity.

(1,866 cases; 12.3% alc.)

Elk Cove Vineyards $19 2014 Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley Second-generation winemaker Adam Campbell is well known for aromatic whites such as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, and he reveals a deft touch here with Riesling from estate grapes. It’s an exotic wine with aromas of lavender, spice and poached pear, followed by bright, lean flavors of orange marmalade and pear.

(800 cases; 12% alc.)

Best buy!

College Cellars $15 2015 Loess Vineyard Riesling, Walla Walla Valley The next generation of Washington winemakers is showing its prowess with Riesling, and this delicious, affordable and small-production wine is a luscious example. Aromas of clove, Asian pear and honeydew melon lead to flavors of crisp green apple and pineapple juice. The crisp acidity crackles like a chilly October morning.

(50 cases; 11.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Valley View Winery $14 NV Riesling, Applegate Valley This Southern Oregon winery’s history dates to the 1850s, though its modern iteration began more than 40 years ago. Using grapes from the fascinating Applegate Valley, winemaker John Guerrero has crafted a delicious German-style Riesling with hints of petrol, honeydew melon and Lady Alice apple. It’s a great example of an Old World wine made in the Pacific Northwest.

(250 cases; 11.5% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $18 2015 Estate Dry Riesling, Lake Chelan With its higher elevation and northern latitude, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

riesling TASTING RESULTS

R IE S L IN G BY T HE N UM B E R S Here are a few interesting stats about our Riesling judging. ❧ Number of entries: 108 ❧ Wines featuring a version of the International Riesling Foundation’s taste profile scale on back label: 34 ❧ Wines rated “Outstanding!”: 33 ❧ Wines rated “Excellent”: 41 ❧ Wines rated “Recommended”: 22 ❧ Average price: $19 ❧ Total cases represented: 268,600 ❧ Average alcohol: 12.6% ❧ AVAs represented: 21. Columbia Valley (29), Willamette Valley (16), Yakima Valley (15), Snake River Valley (7), Eola-Amity Hills (5), Umpqua Valley (5), Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley (4), Ribbon Ridge (4), Lake Chelan (3), Oregon (3), Walla Walla Valley (3), Applegate Valley (2), Chehalem Mountains (2), Dundee Hills (2), Yamhill-Carlton (2), Columbia Gorge (1), Horse Heaven Hills (1), McMinnville (1), Rattlesnake Hills (1), Wahluke Slope (1), Washington (1).

Lake Chelan can be a great location for Riesling.

This showpiece winery on the southern shore is proving this vintage after vintage. Aromas of orange blossom, Nellie and Joe’s Key lime juice and Granny Smith apple lead to flavors of clean minerality, rose petal and crisp pear. A touch of spritz and steely acidity provide beautiful structure.

(361 cases; 12% alc.)

Best buy!

St Josef’s Winery $13 2014 Estate White Riesling, Willamette Valley This little winery in Canby, Ore., has been crafting delicious and affordable wines for more than 30 years. Aromas of dusty minerality, lime and apple lead to exotic flavors of pear, melon and floral notes. A hint of Jolly Rancher green apple candy provides a bright and clean finish.

(500 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Mercer Canyons $13 2014 Riesling, Yakima Valley Winemaker Jessica Munnell shows why Mercer is our Washington Winery of the Year with yet another superb effort on Riesling. Hints of petrol W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

aromas lead to aromas of pineapple juice, mango and apple. Flavors of candied ginger, tropical fruit and peach are backed by crisp acidity that is rounded by a touch of sweetness.

(2,219 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Best buy!

Latah Creek Wine Cellars $10 2014 Familigia Vineyards Riesling, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Second-generation Spokane winemaker Natalie Conway-Barnes shows off her prowess with Riesling, using fruit from the relatively cool Ancient Lakes AVA to produce stunning results in consecutive vintages. Aromas of pear, cardamom and apple lead to round, ripe flavors of orange, apricot and peach. There’s a lot of complexity to be found here, thanks to bright fruit backed by impressive acidity.

(635 cases; 10.5% alc.)

Best buy!

College Cellars $12 2014 Riesling, Walla Walla Valley At 4.8% residual sugar, this wine from Walla Walla Community College is definitely on the sweeter side, yet it is beautifully balanced with ample fruit flavors of honey-drizzled pear, orange and spice. And the sweetness is tempered by expertly managed acidity. It’s a delicious all-around white wine.

(85 cases; 10.4% alc.)

Chehalem Wines $24 2014 SEXT Ridgecrest Vineyards Estate Riesling, Ribbon Ridge Low alcohol, off-dry flavors, lingering acidity and complex flavors. That sums up this delicious example from one of Oregon’s older producers.

Chehalem used estate grapes on tiny Ribbon Ridge to craft this luscious wine with aromas and flavors of orange blossom, orange oil, lime and dusty minerality. The bright acidity easily carries the 6.6% residual sugar.

(243 cases; 8.9% alc.)

Pacific Rim Winemakers $24 2014 Solstice Vineyard Riesling, Yakima Valley Using grapes from vines planted more than 30 years ago, this is an exotic Riesling that highlights purity of fruit. Notes of fresh herb, pear and lime lead to flavors of orchard fruit backed by acidity that reverberates through the soul. It’s clean, bright, dry and a perfect example of a Washington Riesling that will only get more interesting in 10 to 20 years.

(398 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Pacific Rim Winemakers $39 2012 Selenium Vineyard Noble Wine Riesling, Yakima Valley It is a rare and beautiful thing to find a wine made in the “trockenbeerenauslese” style. It’s an ultra-sweet (17% RS) dessert wine with beautiful spiciness and hints of classic petrol on the nose.

While many wines like this can get heavy and

syrupy, this is a bright style that doesn’t lose its way. (466 cases; 9% alc.)

Best buy!

Pacific Rim Winemakers $14 2014 Vin de Glaciere Riesling, Columbia Valley This dessert wine has been made by Pacific Rim since its early days in California with Randall Grahm, and it continues to be a favorite. Aromas of apple and blossoms lead to flavors of caramel, peach pie with cinnamon and a hint of candied ginger. We’re tempted to pour a bit over a scoop of French vanilla ice cream.

(1,087 cases; 9.5% alc.)

Excellent Styring Vineyards $35 2013 Afterglow Estate Riesling Dessert, Ribbon Ridge Made similar to an ice wine (with the grapes frozen post-harvest), this is a delicious dessert wine with aromas of spice, white peach and vanilla. On the palate, it’s a viscous wine with flavors of candied orange and baked apple drizzled with flavored honey. The finish just goes on and on.

(90 cases; 10.3% alc.)

Best buy!

College Cellars $12 2014 Sagemoor Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Some of Sagemoor Vineyards’ first vines were Riesling, planted in the early 1970s along the Columbia River, and vineyard manager Kent Waliser knows a thing or two about the variety.

This example provides aromas of stone fruit and white flower, followed by flavors of lemon, honeydew melon and apple.

(85 cases; 11.2% alc.)

Chehalem Wines $29 2014 Wind Ridge Block Estate Riesling, Ribbon Ridge Chehalem continues to prove itself among the leading producers of Riesling in Oregon, crafting several styles from estate vineyards. This delicious example provides aromas and flavors of spice, Golden Delicious apple and dusty minerality. It’s all backed by bright acidity and mild alcohol, a perfect wine to pair with prawns or mild Thai dishes.

(150 cases; 12.6% alc.)

Timothy Malone Wines $18 2015 Medici Vineyard Riesling, Chehalem Mountains This tiny Oregon producer has crafted a delicious off-dry Riesling with aromas of tropical fruit and ambrosia salad. Bright acidity and mild alcohol make this a white wine to enjoy at the end of a warm summer day or for brunch with family and friends.

(220 cases; 11.8% alc.)

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Pacific Rim Winemakers $19 NV White Flowers Brut Sparkling Riesling, Columbia Valley What could be better than Riesling? How about sparkling Riesling! That’s what the Riesling experts at Pacific Rim in Washington have done.

This is made in a delicious brut style with notes of toast, baked apple and spice leading to flavors of crisp orchard fruit backed by bright bubbles.

(300 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Sawtooth Winery $12 2014 Estate Riesling, Snake River Valley Sawtooth is one of Idaho’s oldest producers, dating back to the 1980s. It is atop a hill surrounded by estate vines that are treasured by many area winemakers. This delicious Riesling shows off aromas and flavors of baked apple, ginger and even a hint of lychee on the finish. It’s slightly off-dry at 1.5% residual sugar.

(980 cases; 12.3% alc.)

Silvara Vineyards $22 2014 Riesling, Yakima Valley This small producer near the Cascade Mountains town of Leavenworth is best known for its bold reds, but it shows its versatility with this mineral-driven Riesling. It’s a wine bursting with flavors of orchard and tropical fruit, including lime, grapefruit, peach and ginger. We love the balance and weight of this wine.

(231 cases; 12.8% alc.)

Best buy!

Sagelands $8 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley Among the most affordable Rieslings in our judging also is one of the most delicious. Sagelands, part of the Seattle-based Precept Wine portfolio, is a longtime Washington winery and knows its way around Riesling. This is a richly structured white with round apple and pear flavors and just enough residual sugar to provide an elegant plushness.

(504 cases; 11.7% alc.)

Spindrift Cellars $20 2014 Hang Time Riesling, Willamette Valley This is one of two Rieslings from this Philomath, Ore., producer, and it’s the sweeter of the two at 3.5% residual sugar. It is loaded with aromas and flavors of lemon-lime, Fuji apple, peach and melon. It is a delicious sipper.

(45 cases; 14.2% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle $40 2014 Ethos Late Harvest Riesling, Horse Heaven Hills Ethos is Ste. Michelle’s reserve tier, and this late-harvest Riesling fits well. At 16% residual sugar, it is plenty sweet, yet expertly handled acidity keeps it all bright and in check. Notes of jasmine, pear and Honeycrisp apple are delightful throughout.

(200 cases; 8% alc.)

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Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2014 Dolium Riesling , Umpqua Valley Is there anything Stephen Reustle can’t make well? This Roseburg, Ore., winery owner is among the best and most versatile winemakers in the Northwest. This delicious Riesling is highlighted by purity of fruit and balance. Notes of apple, melon and lemon pith burst from the glass.

(72 cases; 12.6% alc.)

Ellensburg Canyon Winery $18 2014 Basic Riesling, Columbia Valley This new wine from a small Ellensburg, Wash., producer is a luscious and delightful Riesling with aromas and flavors of peach, pineapple and dragonfruit. It’s a distinctive wine with exotic notes throughout.

(150 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Brooks Wines $28 2014 Ara Riesling, Willamette Valley Based in Amity, Ore., not far from Salem, this winery specializes in Riesling — a rarity in Oregon. This delicious example unveils aromas and flavors of Bartlett pear, honeydew and cantaloupe melons and white pepper in the finish. It’s all backed by bright acidity.

(300 cases; 13.8% alc.)

Dunham Cellars $20 2014 Lewis Estate Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley This longtime Walla Walla Valley winery has crafted a Riesling for many years — one of the few in Walla Walla — with the grapes coming from Lewis Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. This is true to the grape, with notes of Granny Smith apple, sweet lime and a whiff of spearmint.

(1,540 cases; 11% alc.)

Brooks Wines $25 2014 Tethys, Willamette Valley This late-harvest Riesling from Brooks in Oregon’s Willamette Valley is a complex and delicious drink. Notes of gingersnap cookie and candied apple are backed by hints of honey and spice.

Thanks to bright acidity, the 13% residual sugar is kept in check.

(375 cases; 11.5% alc.)

EFESTE $20 2013 Evergreen Riesling, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley EFESTE has earned near-cult status for its wines the past few years, and the Woodinville winery crafts delicious Rieslings from famed Evergreen Vineyard. This offers aromas and flavors of apple, cantaloupe and slate with a hint of ground mustard on the finish.

(950 cases; 12.8% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle $16 2014 Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Cold Creek — which paradoxically is a really warm region north of the Yakima Valley — would not seem like the best place to grow Riesling, but

winemaker Bob Bertheau and his team manage to produce a delicious example each year. This features aromas and flavors of Granny Smith apple, pear and apricot, backed by dusty minerality and marvelously dry acidity.

(4,500 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Kennedy Shah $15 2015 Reserve Riesling, Yakima Valley Alsatian native Jean Claude Beck knows a thing or two about Riesling, especially considering his family has been making wine since the 1570s. This delicious example offers bright, crisp aromas and flavors of Asian pear, lime zest and apricot. It’s all backed by stunning acidity.

(420 cases; 13.5% alc.)

Torii Mor Winery $24 2014 Riesling, Willamette Valley Eighth-generation Burgundian winemaker Jacques Tardy is most at home with Pinot Noir, but he also crafts tasty Riesling. This provides aromas and flavors of butterscotch, ripe peach and a hint of honeydew melon. It’s a bone dry wine that will pair with linguine in a garlic butter sauce.

(307 cases; 13.4% alc.)

Lauren Ashton Cellars $18 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley Winemaker/dentist Kit Singh is crafting wines of distinction at his Woodinville operation, and this delicious Riesling is another great example.

Dusty minerality gives way to notes of fleshy orchard fruit. It is bone dry with enjoyable slate notes on the finish.

(292 cases; 13.1% alc.)

Brooks Wines $24 2014 Estate Riesling, Eola-Amity Hills Using estate grapes, winemaker Chris Williams has crafted a delicious Riesling with faint aromas of petrol, along with rich notes of baked pear, cardamom and orange oil. It’s a delicious wine with both breadth and length.

(100 cases; 13.6% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $18 2015 Estate Riesling, Lake Chelan Winemaker Shane Collins relies on estate grapes where Red Delicious apples once grew. This delicious and fresh Riesling offers aromas and flavors of dusty minerality, lime zest and exotic spice. Gorgeous, spine-tingling acidity brings everything together.

(407 cases; 12% alc.)

Best buy!

Mercer Estates $14 2014 Riesling, Yakima Valley The Mercer family focuses its viticultural work in the Horse Heaven Hills but relies on grapes from the cooler Yakima Valley for this luscious Riesling. It offers dusty notes of slate, followed by juicy flavors of Granny Smith apple and lime. It’s all backed by bright acidity.

(314 cases; 13.3% alc.)

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riesling TASTING RESULTS Amity Vineyards $22 2013 Riesling, Willamette Valley This longtime Willamette Valley producer is now owned by Union Wine Co. in Sherwood, Ore. Using grapes planted in 1971, it is crafting a deliciously dry Riesling that features aromas and flavors of river rock, apple, Asian pear and a squeeze of lemon juice. Enjoy with mild Thai dishes or baked chicken.

(234 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Ste. Chapelle $25 2014 Panoramic Riesling Ice Wine, Snake River Valley Idaho’s largest winery began making Riesling ice wine about 15 years ago and continues to do so when Mother Nature provides the correct conditions. This opens with a delicate nose of jasmine and pear, followed by rich flavors of orange marmalade and ripe peach.

(700 cases; 11% alc.)

Ancestry Cellars $18 2014 Reminiscence Riesling, Columbia Gorge This small Woodinville producer has crafted a delicious off-dry Riesling with aromas and flavors of Asian pear, dried apricot, pineapple and lemonlime. It is expertly balanced with solid acidity. This will pair beautifully with spicier curries from Thailand or India.

(145 cases; 10.3% alc.)

Best buy!

Chateau Ste. Michelle $9 2014 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley This beautiful and affordable wine has long been the standard for dry American Rieslings, and it continues to hold its own today. Complex notes of fresh mint, lime juice and coriander give way to flavors of green apple and lime. Bright, balanced acidity provide all the structure necessary to pair with pasta tossed with crab.

(61,000 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Gård Vintners $60 2013 Lawrence Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine, Columbia Valley Gård Vintners, whose tasting room is in Ellensburg, Wash., uses estate grapes from the fascinating Frenchman Hills near the town of Royal City.

This beautiful ice wine is gorgeous and complex, with notes of butterscotch, toffee, custard and orange zest. It is a rich and decadent wine.

(90 cases; 11% alc.)

Best buy!

Union Wine Co. $14 2014 Kings Ridge Riesling, Willamette Valley Using grapes that date back to 1968, Union Wine Co. has put together a tasty Riesling with aromas and flavors of ginger, apple, dusty minerality and Asian pear. It’s all put together in a package that is bright and affordable. It is clean and dry through the lengthy finish.

(2,500 cases; 12% alc.)

David Hill Vineyards & Winery $18 2015 Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley Based in Forest Grove west of Portland, this longtime producer has crafted a delicious Riesling loaded with aromas and flavors of spearmint, Granny Smith apple, pear and ginger. It’s off-dry at 2.95% residual sugar, but that is backed up with solid acidity.

(100 cases; 13% alc.)

J Wrigley Vineyards $22 2015 Estate Riesling, McMinnville High in the hills of the McMinnville AVA in the northern Willamette Valley, this small, highend producer releases delicious Rieslings on an annual basis. This is a bold, bright, zesty example with notes of Granny Smith apple and a minerally component. Zippy acidity brings length and complexity to the finish.

(270 cases; 11% alc.)

Best buy!

Oak Knoll Winery $10 2014 Riesling, Willamette Valley Oak Knoll is one of Oregon’s oldest wineries, dating back to the first vintage in 1970. This tasty and affordable Riesling offers aromas and flavors of Key Lime juice, spearmint and Fuji apple. At 4% residual sugar, it’s on the sweeter side and is a delightful sipper.

(254 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Washington Hills $9 2014 Late Harvest Riesling, Columbia Valley Late-harvest Rieslings have long been a tradition in Washington Hills, and the key to their success is the bright acidity that steers them away from being syrupy. That also is the case here, thanks to clean, bright, rich flavors of ripe pear and poached apple. Enjoy with spicy Asian dishes or foie gras.

(12,178 cases; 9% alc.)

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Westport Winery $28 2014 Maritime, Yakima Valley This family-run coastal winery near Westport, Wash., brings Riesling across the state, then turns it into a delicious and sweet sparkling wine. Aromas and flavors of juicy pear topped with cinnamon are given a boost from bright acidity and ample bubbles. This is a fun and delicious sipper.

(135 cases; 12% alc.)

Best buy!

Kennedy Shah $15 2014 Angiolina Vineyard Reserve Riesling, Yakima Valley Using grapes from a vineyard near the Rattlesnake Hills town of Zillah, Wash., winemaker Jean Claude Beck has produced a delicious Riesling loaded with aromas and flavors of such tropical fruit as papaya and passionfruit. It’s all backed by spicy acidity and a hint of white pepper in the finale.

(250 cases; 14.5% alc.)

Best buy!

Nine Hats Cellars $12 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley Nine Hats, a label that is part of Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla, crafts one of the more delicious and affordable Rieslings in Washington.

This example is loaded with aromas and flavors of sweet lime, kiwi, jasmine and honeydew. It’s all expertly balanced with bright acidity on the finish.

(1,005 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Best buy!

3 Horse Ranch Vineyards $15 2015 Off Dry Riesling, Snake River Valley Grape growers Gary and Martha Cunningham and winemaker Greg Koenig teamed up to make this tasty Idaho Riesling. It reveals beautiful notes of Golden Delicious apple, honeydew melon and exotic tropical fruit. It’s just off-dry at 1.8% residual sugar, which reveals itself as little more than a kiss of sweetness.

(680 cases; 12.9% alc.)

Chehalem Wines $22 2013 Three Vineyard Estate Riesling, Willamette Valley We love the attention that the Peterson-Nedry family gives to Oregon Riesling, crafting several examples each year with the same attention that is given to Pinot Noir. This classic example is bright and delicious with notes of apple, Key Lime juice and ripe pear.

(630 cases; 10% alc.)

Best buy!

Convergence Zone Cellars $14 2014 Bacchus Vineyard Dewpoint, Columbia Valley Bacchus Vineyard is part of Sagemoor Vineyards, one of Washington’s oldest and most important plantings dating back to 1972. This delicious Riesling from Woodinville winemaker Scott Greenberg shows off aromas and flavors of apple, pear and apricot, all backed by a kiss of sweetness and ample acidity.

(200 cases; 12.7% alc.)

Best buy!

Pacific Rim Winemakers $11 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley Pacific Rim started out as a California winery using Washington grapes. Since relocating to Washington wine country more than a decade ago, it has become an award-winning ambassador for Riesling. This is a delicious Riesling that offers aromas and flavors of apricot, Fuji apple and dusty minerality with just a whisper of sweetness to round out the finish.

(10,017 cases; 11.5% alc.)

Delfino Vineyards $20 2014 Riesling, Oregon This winery near Roseburg, Ore., has crafted a yummy Riesling with notes of brioche, cinnamon and lime. It’s bone dry and unveils notes of Gran-

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TASTING RESULTS

riesling

ny Smith apple in the lengthy finish. Enjoy with baked chicken or grilled halibut.

(148 cases; 12% alc.)

Recommended Best buy!

Strange Folk Wines $6 NV La Boheme, Snake River Valley The folks at Split Rail Winery near Boise use their “Strange Folks” label for their wine-in-a-can program, and this delicious canned Riesling is the real deal, thanks to notes of grapefruit, lime soda, pear and applesauce.

(1,500 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $21 2014 Engedi and Onyx Bloc Riesling, Umpqua Valley This tasty Riesling from Southern Oregon reveals aromas and flavors of crisp green apple, fresh sweet herbs and Asian pear. It’s all backed by refreshing acidity.

(347 cases; 12.6% alc.)

Trust Cellars $16 2014 Riesling, Columbia Valley With tasting rooms in Walla Walla and Woodinville, Trust Cellars has both sides of the state covered. This yummy Riesling offers notes of butterscotch, papaya and apricot, all backed by bright acidity.

(1,200 cases; 11.9% alc.)

Chateau Ste. Michelle $30 2014 Eroica Gold Riesling, Columbia Valley This rich, juicy and exotic Riesling weighs in at 6.64% residual sugar that is tempered by remarkable acidity. The result is a wine with aromas and flavors of ginger, grapefruit and orange zest.

(2,250 cases; 11% alc.)

Best buy!

Kennedy Shah $15 2012 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve Riesling, Yakima Valley Winemaker Jean Claude Beck brings in grapes from one of Washington’s top vineyards to craft this delicious Riesling offered in Woodinville.

Aromas of kiwi and lime give way to flavors of Asian pear and baked apple.

(298 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Best buy!

J&J Vintners $15 2015 Les Collines & Pepper Bridge Vineyard Riesling, Walla Walla Valley This pair of graduates from Walla Walla Community College’s viticulture and enology program work with nearby sites to create alluring aromas of slate and river rock that lead to flavors of apricot, green apple and Asian pear. It’s a deliciously dry wine with notes of minerality in the finish.

(200 cases; 12.2% alc.)

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Best buy!

Ste. Chapelle Winery $12 2014 Special Harvest Riesling, Snake River Valley Idaho’s largest winery has long made this sweet Riesling. Aromas of apple and lemon meld into bright, round flavors of orange and pear, all backed by crowd-pleasing lusciousness.

(6,300 cases; 11% alc.)

Gård Vintners $22 2013 Lawrence Vineyard Grand Klasse Riesling, Columbia Valley Walla Walla winemaker Aryn Morell crafted a delicious Riesling using estate grapes along the Royal Slope, featuring aromas and flavors of lemon zest, apricot and a bit of butterscotch.

(165 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Best buy!

Ste. Chapelle Winery $9 NV Chateau Series Riesling, Snake River Valley This affordable off-dry Riesling from Idaho’s largest and oldest producer offers a theme of Golden Delicious apple, lime, mint and jasmine.

It’s fairly sweet at 3.85% residual sugar, but that’s tempered by bright acidity.

(8,600 cases; 12.2% alc.)

Pacific Rim Winemakers $39 2013 Selenium Vineyard Ice Wine, Yakima Valley The Riesling experts at Pacific Rim have crafted this luscious dessert wine from frozen grapes.

Notes of peach blossom, orange marmalade and apple are backed by rich viscosity through the lengthy finish.

(117 cases; 9% alc.)

Best buy!

Kennedy Shah $15 2013 DuBrul Vineyard Reserve Riesling, Yakima Valley Aromas of Granny Smith apple and lemon-lime give way to flavors of nectarine and tropical fruit.

This is finished refreshingly dry, thanks to bright acidity and clean, crisp fruit.

(384 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $21 2013 Engedi and Onyx Bloc Riesling, Umpqua Valley This approachable and tasty Riesling from Southern Oregon provides aromas and flavors of Mandarin orange, apricot, cantaloupe and even a hint of candied ginger in the finish. Ample acidity backs up all the fruit.

(375 cases; 12.8% alc.)

Best buy!

Convergence Zone Cellars $14 2013 Bacchus Vineyard Dewpoint, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Scott Greenberg runs his small winery in Woodinville and has produced this

yummy Riesling that brings hints of apple, lemon and Asian pear with just a kiss of sweetness on the finish.

(180 cases; 12.5% alc.)

Spindrift Cellars $18 2014 Riesling, Willamette Valley This small producer west of Corvallis, Ore., is crafting consistently delicious wines, and this Riesling is no exception. Aromas and flavors of jasmine, lime and baked apple are backed by bright acidity on the finish.

(104 cases; 10% alc.)

Best buy!

Kiona Vineyards and Winery $12 2014 Riesling, Washington The Williams family planted the first Riesling on Red Mountain, putting plants in the ground in 1976. This off-dry example shows off tones of starfruit, apricot and green apple, all backed by impressive acidity.

(4,822 cases; 12.8% alc.)

Best buy!

Firesteed Cellars $15 2012 Riesling, Oregon This longtime Oregon producer has crafted a dry and delicious Riesling with notes of Bosc pear, green apple and spearmint, all backed by acidity that leaves the impression of slate on the finish.

(3,073 cases; 13.3% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $21 2014 Vigna Giovanni Vineyard Riesling, Yamhill-Carlton California escapee Byron Dooley and his wife, Dana, run their small winery in the quaint community of Carlton. This Riesling is deliciously austere, with notes of lime, peach and minerality throughout.

(140 cases; 13% alc.)

Tunnel Hill Winery $17 2014 Estate Riesling, Lake Chelan The Evans family planted Riesling on the south shore of Lake Chelan in 2001. This offers aromas and flavors of almond extract, a hint of honey, ripe Gala apple and a hint of Bartlett pear on the finish.

(151 cases; 14.6% alc.)

Best buy!

Martin-Scott Winery $14 2014 Appleblock Vineyard Riesling, Columbia Valley Owner/winemaker Mike Scott produces a large assortment of wines, including this tasty Riesling.

It opens with hints of apple, followed by notes of ripe pear. It’s off-dry with 2.6% residual sugar, and the sweetness and acidity nicely extend the finish.

(86 cases; 10.3% alc.)

Best buy!

Hoover & Roofus Winery $13 2009 Riesling, Yakima Valley This small producer in Washington’s RattleW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

riesling TASTING RESULTS snake Hills has released an older Riesling with aromas and flavors of pineapple, anise and hints of jasmine. It’s gaining complexity with age.

(100 cases; 8.1% alc.)

Best buy!

Girardet Wine Cellars $15 2013 Estate Riesling , Umpqua Valley This longtime family operation in Southern Oregon is led by second-generation winemaker Marc Girardet, who has crafted a delicious Ger-

manic style of Riesling with penetrating flavors of apple, apricot and a hint of petrol.

(204 cases; 10.6% alc.)

Brooks Wines $20 2014 Sunset View Vineyard Riesling, EolaAmity Hils This beautiful and approachable Riesling opens with notes of lime, jasmine and mint, followed by flavors of honeydew melon and ripe Fuji apple.

(200 cases; 13.7% alc.)

is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. He’s also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

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The Prosser Vintner’s Village

Where a hub of wineries in the heart of Washington Wine Country's Yakima Valley has emerged as an exciting destination for wine enthusiasts.

It's a pedestrian-friendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemaker's Loft.

Summer Events!

Thurston Wolfe – Featured artists are: Diana Schmidt, showing an exhibit of her watercolors. Carol VonStubbe, displaying her shadow boxes. Ed Maske, showcasing his handcrafted Indian bead bracelets. Cathleen Williams, displaying her lovely earrings and necklaces.

The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock – Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for á la carte wining and dining.

The Winemakers Loft Presents Lounging at the Loft – Summer music series featuring live music, food and wine.

Saturdays from 6-9 pm. Check out the local artists and participating wineries listed below. 21+ Event Plus $10 Cover.

June • 2 & 16 – Airfield Estates – Sunset Yoga, 7pm • 10-11 – Bottles, Brews & Barbecues. Live Music, vendors, BBQ competition.

• 18 – Airfield Estates – Knutzen Brothers in Concert at Airfield Estates, 4 - 7pm • 18 – Milbrandt Vineyards – Join us for our first Patio Party of the season, featuring musician Jamie Nasario and a gourmet burger bar from Bon Vino’s Bakery & Bistro. Call for reservations.

(509) 786-7686 www.coyotecanyonwinery.com

(509) 786-7800

• 23 – McKinley Springs – Lounging at the Loft with Pony Boys

www.gamachevintners.com

(509) 786-2392

(509) 786-3313

July • 2 – Milbrandt Vineyards – Music from Matt Brown, 6-9 p.m. on our patio, delicious meal from Dickey’s BBQ Pit. Call for reservations.

• 7 – Airfield Estates – Sunset Yoga at Airfield Estates, 7pm • 9 – Martinez & Martinez Winery – Lounging at the Loft with Fino • 16 – McKinley Springs, Martinez & Martinez Winery, Coyote Canyon Winery – Yoga in Wine Country Winemakers Loft Courtyard, Tickets sold at yogainwinecountry • 16 – Airfield Estates – Art series #2 painting class • 23 – Airfield Estates – Live music, 4 - 7pm

www.martinezwine.com

(509) 786-2197

www.bunnellfamilycellar.com Reservations recommended

www.thurstonwolfe.com

MCKINLEY SPRINGS (509) 786-0004

www.mckinleysprings.com

(509) 788-0030

www.milbrandtvineyards.com

(509) 786-7401

www.airfieldwines.com

August • 4 & 18 – Airfield Estates – Sunset Yoga at Airfield Estates, 4 -7pm • 6 – Martinez & Martinez Winery – Lounging at the Loft with Café Blanco • 13 – Coyote Canyon Winery – Lounging at the Loft with Missy G Band • 13 – Milbrandt Vineyards – Evening of food & music with the Knutzen Brothers, Stick & Stone Pizza • 20 – McKinley Springs, Martinez & Martinez Winery, Coyote Canyon Winery – Yoga in Wine Country Winemakers Loft Courtyard, Tickets sold at yogainwinecountry.com • 20 – McKinley Springs – Lounging at the Loft with Pony Boys • 20 – Airfield Estates – Olson Brothers Band in Concert at Airfield Estates, 4-7pm • 27 – Coyote Canyon Winery – Lounging at the Loft with Swing Shift September • 3 – McKinley Springs – Lounging at the Loft with Night Train • 4 – Thurston Wolfe Wine Club – Wine Club pick up party, 4-7pm. Food by Cathleen Williams, music by Benson & Brooks • 4 – Milbrandt Vineyards – Last summer night on our patio. Featuring food prepared by Chef Frank Magana & music from Budapest West.

Please call or check individual web sites for more summer events.

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COLUMN

nom de vine

Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names

14 Hands 2013 Red Blend

BY JON BAUER

T

here’s something about wine, Northwest wine in particular, that lends itself to local history in the names of wineries and wines and what’s shown on the labels, a connection to the land and the people of a region, and often even the animals.

Since its inception in 2005 as an offering first available only on restaurant wine lists, 14 Hands Winery, and the colorful horses that gallop across its label, have honored the wild mustangs that once roamed freely throughout Eastern Washington and the Columbia Valley, the diminutive but free-spirited equines that measure 14 hands high.

Over the years, the winery has expanded its offerings with a range of varietals and, by popular demand, outside of wine lists and into the retail market. Since 2009, it has offered a growing selection of reserve wines; its Hot to Trot red and white blends followed in 2010; and beginning in 2013, 14 Hands became an official sponsor of the Kentucky Derby and introduced its Kentucky Derby Red Blend for the 2015 Churchill Downs race.

14 Hands now has released its inaugural Vintage Series with a 2013 red blend. And with plenty of Columbia Valley history to tell, the wine features three labels, each with distinctive art work and a brief bit of history.

One with a line drawing of a barn honors Col. William Farrand Prosser, the namesake of the Washington city, who was one of 75 delegates charged with writing the state constitution.

A second, showing two draft horses pulling a covered wagon, remembers the homesteaders who sought fertile ground and settled in the Columbia Valley.

And a third, showing a mustang in full gallop, quotes James Gordon Kinney, who ··· 14 Hands Winery www.14hands.com 855-894-2088 660 Frontier Road, Prosser, WA 99350

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W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S u m m e r 2 016

helped found what became Prosser and also had a hand in naming some of the region’s geologic features. “The area offers excellent forage and comparative isolation,” the label quotes Kinney. “This is surely a horse heaven.”

The name stuck.

“I think that was critical to establishing Horse Heaven Hills as an AVA (American Viticultural Area), that history and its tie to the region,” said Keith Kenison, who has been winemaker for 14 Hands from the start, and has used Horse Heaven Hills fruit exclusively for its reserve tier wines.

“I think (local history) has a lot to do with wine, not just a name or a cute label, but something with a story and some history,” Kenison said.

The wine in the bottle, of course, is an outgrowth of that history, although with the intent of celebrating the best grapes of the region, Kenison is reaching past the Horse Heaven Hills AVA and using grapes from throughout the Columbia Valley. For the inaugural red blend, Kenison is using grapes from Horse Heaven, Cold Creek and the Wahluke Slope.

“The best fruit from a few vineyards,” he said.

The blend — 39 percent Merlot, 33 percent Cabernet Franc and 28 percent Syrah — isn’t a traditional blend, but, while still fruitdriven, “this has some fruit aromatics but is more on the savory side in terms of flavor,” Kenison said.

With each vintage, the blend will change depending on the fruit available, and the stories on the labels also will change, honoring other chapters of the region’s history.

Kenison, who also is the white winemaker at Columbia Crest, is ready to bottle the 2014

Vintage Series at the Prosser winery, which is owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, and produces a total of two million cases and a selection of more than 25 wines.

As with the 2013 blend, you’ll have to put some effort into buying a bottle, or three.

Only 81 cases of the 2013 release were produced, not enough even to supply the winery’s club members. The wine, at $60 a bottle, is sold only at the Prosser winery’s tasting room, which opened in 2014, but draws about 15,000 visitors a year.

Wild horses might not drag you away, but they might bring you to Prosser.

JON BAUER is Wine Press Northwest’s Salish Sea correspondent. The longtime newspaperman lives near La Conner, Wash.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Presented by

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and benefiting disabled veteran’s programs.

Aug 3

bellingham wine walk

Aug 4

whatcom county wine trail tour

BELLINGHAM northwest wine

FESTIVAL Celebrate 2016 Bellingham Wine Week!

Awarding Gold, Silver & Bronze Medals.

Festival open to wineries from Washington, British Columbia, Oregon and Idaho.

Vendors please refer to event website below.

Aug 5

six course gold medal dinner 7-10

Aug 6

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four points by sheraton grand ballroom

Aug 7

hangover brunch four points by sheraton chinuk restaurant

www.bellinghamnorthwestwinefestival.com CAITAC USA CORP.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS June 4 Leavenworth Spring Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash.

Regional wineries gather to pour more than 60 wines throughout 20 downtown locations. Go to cascadefarmlands.com.

12 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission stages its eighth annual event pairing Idaho’s top wines with regional cuisine at the Idaho Botanical Garden. Go to savoridaho.org.

16-18 Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine, Walla Walla, Wash. Join more than 60 Walla Walla Valley winemakers as well as some from France, Chile and Napa Valley in exploring Cabernet Sauvignon. Go to celebratewallawalla.squarespace.com.

24-26 Taste of Tacoma. Point Defiance Park serves as the venue of the 31st annual celebration of food and craft beverages, with this year’s Tacoma News Tribune wine bar in the rose garden.

Go to tasteoftacoma.com.

25 Wine and Jazz Festival, Richland, Wash. The Auction of Washington Wines partners with Washington State University Tri-Cities for this second annual event featuring more than 20 wineries and regional musicians.

21-23 Sun Valley Wine Auction, Sun Valley, Idaho. The Sun Valley Center for the Arts stages its 35th annual charity wine auction. Go to sunvalleycenter.org.

24 Vintage Spokane, Spokane, Wash. The Lilac City’s largest wine event features more than 50 regional wineries and chefs at the Spokane Convention Center. Go to vintagespokane.com 29-31 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, Ore. Global Pinotphiles return to Linfield College for its 30th year. Call 800-775-4762 or go to ipnc.org.

August 13 Kitsap Wine Festival, Bremerton, Wash. Harborside Fountain Park is the stage for this eighth annual fundraiser for Harrison Medical Center Foundation. Go to kitsapwinefestival.com.

18-20 Auction of Washington Wines, Woodinville, Wash. The Washington Wine Commission’s 29th annual benefit is headquartered at Chateau Ste. Michelle. Go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org.

25 Cycle Lake Chelan, Chelan, Wash. The sixth year of this ride includes a lake crossing and takes in some of the region’s top wineries. Go to cyclechelan.com.

20 Sunnyslope Food and Wine Trail, Caldwell, Idaho.

Wine industry members celebrate the upcoming harvest, with the signature event at the Train Depot Plaza. Go to sunnyslopewinetrail.org.

July

22-28 Oregon Wine Experience, Jacksonville, Ore. This annual celebration has grown to 50 wineries in support of the Children’s Miracle Network. Go to worldofwinefestival.com.

8 Wine Tasting at the Zoo, Seattle. More than 30 regional wineries gather at Woodland Park Zoo’s North Meadow for three hours to help raise conservation funds. Go to zoo.org.

9 Ohme Wine & Food Gala, Wenatchee, Wash. Ohme Gardens celebrates its 87th anniversary during an evening with area chefs and wineries. Go to ohmegardens.com.

9 Mt. Rainier Wine Festival, Crystal Mountain, Wash.

The lawn at the Alpine Inn plays host to food, live jazz and more than 20 Northwest wineries. Go to crystalhotels.com.

10 Fueled by Fine Wine, Dayton, Ore. Members of the Dundee Hills American Viticultural Area help present the seventh annual wine country half-marathon and after-race party. Go to fueledbyfinewine.com.

13 Wine Country Triathlon, Woodinville, Wash. Winemakers, brewers and distillers will fill more than 30 teams as they run, cycle and paddle to raise money for The Goodtimes Project in Wilmot Park. Go to shopwoodinvillewine.com.

15-17 Kirkland Uncorked, Kirkland, Wash. City officials stage the event in Kirkland Marina Park featuring wineries with food-and-wine pairing workshops. Go to kirklanduncorked.com.

16 Horse Heaven Hills Wine Growers Trail Drive, Alderdale, Wash. The 11th annual tour visits seven wineries and ends with a barbecue at Crow Butte Park on the Columbia River. Go to horseheavenhillswinegrowers.org.

16-17 Northwest Wine Fest, Sandpoint, Idaho. Schweitzer Mountain features more than 20 regional wineries, live music and barbecue. Go to schweitzer.com.

17-19 Riesling Rendezvous, Seattle. Riesling lovers in the Pacific Northwest and around the globe return to Chateau Ste. Michelle and Bell Harbor International Conference Center for this celebration of the noble white wine. Go to rieslingrendezvous.com.

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26-27 The Showcase of Golf, Wine, Spirits, Cheese and Brew, Sunriver, Ore. A round at the Crosswater Course is followed by food, cheese and more than 100 wines as the Pacific Northwest’s original year-round resort raises funds for Newberry Habitat for Humanity. Go to theshowcaseatsunriver.com.

26-28 Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, Vancouver, Wash. This 19th annual event at Esther Short Park features regional wineries, area restaurants and several top-name recording artists. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com.

27 Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival, Wenatchee, Wash. Top wines from the sixth annual North Central Washington Wine Awards staged by Foothills magazine will receive their awards at Town Toyota Center. Go to wenatcheewineandfood.com.

September 4 Wine in the Pines, Cle Elum, Wash. Swiftwater Cellars celebrates Northwest wines with celebrity chefs and live music for a ninth year. Go to swiftwatercellars.com.

9 Auburn Art Walk and Wine Tasting, Auburn, Wash.

Auburn’s historic downtown comes alive as wine, music and local artists are featured among downtown businesses. Go to auburnartwalk.com.

10 Leavenworth Summer Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash. More than 20 regional wineries gather to pour throughout 20 downtown locations. Go to cascadefarmlands.com 10 Carlton Crush Harvest Festival, Carlton, Ore. This family-style event staged by Ken Wright Cellars features local wines, live music and fun in Upper Park. Go to carltoncrush.com.

15-18 Feast Portland. Travel Oregon and Bon Appetit magazine gather chefs and regional wines for more than 40 events to support No Kid Hungry for a third straight year. Go to feastportland.com.

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AWARDS

52

winery of the year

W in e P r ess N or th w e s t • S u m m e r 2 0 1 6

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DINE, WINE AND BED WITH

PAZZO AND HOTEL VINTAGE PORTLAND STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

P

ORTLAND, Ore. — It’s not at all crazy for the marriage of Pazzo Ristorante and Hotel Vintage Portland to work so well.

The synergy between the two properties seems rather seamless because of the passion on both sides of the hallway that allows guests to pass easily between the artful hotel and the acclaimed Italian restaurant that has showcased several of the Rose City’s top culinary talents.

“We are one,” said Pazzo executive chef Kenny Giambalvo. “We are all here for the same purpose — to give the guest the best possible experience and the warmest hospitality.”

It’s friendly, welcoming and warm with a level of sophistication one would expect from Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, which manages both businesses inside this historic building on the bustling corner of Broadway and Washington.

“There’s also a sense of playfulness,” Giambalvo said. “Pazzo means crazy in Italian. We take our craft very seriously, but we like to laugh and have fun - and we’re humble about it.”

For Giambalvo, a New York native and 1983 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, Pazzo represents a homecoming of sorts.

“I moved to Portland to be the executive chef at Pazzo in 1998,” Giambalvo said. “I had to open up an atlas and find out where Portland was in Oregon. It was an interesting transition coming from L.A., coming from palm trees to incessant rain, but it’s been great.”

For wine director Kendra Crosby, it’s been a way to create a profession out of her passion. Considering that each room at Hotel Vintage Portland is named for an Oregon winery, she’s found a comfortable spot for the past five years.

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“I like to remind people they shouldn’t be intimidated by wine,” said Crosby, a Northwest sports fan who grew up on Spokane’s South Hill and spends her vacations wine touring. “At the end of the day, it’s just a fermented beverage that you enjoy. I try to the make the list so that it’s approachable for people who are interested in learning more. Getting people excited about wine is what’s important.”

At 5 p.m. each weekday, guests can explore Oregon wine through Hotel Vintage Portland’s Wine Hour, a hosted pouring that features a winery representative. The program mirrors the Washington wine concept at sister property Hotel Vintage Seattle.

As for general manager Sandy Burkett, she’s the engaging type of innkeeper you want to have a drink with — if you can get her to sit still. Better yet, ask her for a tour of the historic Wells Building (circa 1892) and the $16 million renovation that closed Hotel Vintage Portland for nine weeks in 2015. It deepened the relationship between owner Pebblebrook Hotel Trust and Kimpton, which manages the 117-room property.

“If someone only had 24 hours in the city, they could experience a lot of Portland right here in one element or another,” Burkett said. “We give them a taste of the wine country that they won’t have really at any other property in the same way by just getting a chance to meet a winemaker or somebody from the winery at our wine hour. And they can extend that experience in the guest room by enjoying wine from the wineries on our list.”

Her team at Hotel Vintage Portland also leaves in your room a voucher for a free morning cup of coffee in Pazzo. Giambalvo said that invitation represents a level of trust.

“Come down and try us out. We’re going to take care of you,” he said.

The native of Long Island grew up in a

home where an uncle would sneak him little tastes of wine — an easy thing to do with a family of 10 around the dining table.

“You had to help in the kitchen,” Giambalvo said. “My mom couldn’t produce food for 10 by herself, so it started with cleaning beans and it grew from there. I don’t know that I was good at it back then, but I knew it was fun to be in the kitchen. It took an uncle to tell me that I was good, and he sent me the information about the CIA when I was 17. I’ve never looked back.”

Giambalvo’s professional career started with cleaning squid at Lenny’s Clam Bar in Queens — “My mom would make me change my clothes outside,” he chuckled — which led to a life in kitchens on both coasts and in Singapore.

He made headlines upon his arrival in Portland as Pazzo’s original chef, and his talents showcased there quickly earned him a trip in 1999 back to New York for a performance at the iconic James Beard House. Four years later, he got called back to the James Beard House, this time as founding chef at Bluehour in Portland’s Pearl District, where he spent a decade working for acclaimed restaurateur Bruce Carey.

“The explosion of chef-owned restaurants is unprecedented in a city of this size,” Giambalvo said. “It’s had this ripple effect and caused us all to up our game. The competition is intense, and the customers are better educated because of it.

“When I was first here at Pazzo, you could surprise people with what you put on the plate. Now, they’ve seen everything. There are so many talented chefs in the city.”

His career path kept him in Portland, and Giambalvo was at McMenamin’s Black Rabbit in Edgefield last year when Kimpton recruited him back to Pazzo.

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Executive Chef Kenny Giambalvo in the kitchen at Pazzo Ristorante.

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MATCH MAKERS

Brick House Vineyard $29 2014 Gamay Noir, Ribbon Ridge 200 cases, 13% alc.

It makes sense that the base for Beaujolais shines in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, and Brick House Vineyards continues to promote this Burgundian variety that’s been overlooked and underappreciated by too many for too long.

Research indicates its parentage stems from Pinot Noir and the white grape Gouais Blanc, and according to famed British author Jancis Robinson, history can trace its lineage to the 14th century. Iconoclastic winemaker Myron Redford is credited with releasing the first Gamay Noir in Oregon in 1988.

Doug Tunnell’s history with wines from Burgundy began in the 1980s when the Oregonian was working as a correspondent for CBS News and headquartered in France’s Rhone Valley. As he learned about the wine industry there, his interest in making wine in Oregon became heightened after reports of the investment by famed French producer Robert Drouhin buying land in the Willamette Valley.

Few have been as inspired as Tunnell, who soon moved back to home, spotted a derelict filbert orchard on Ribbon Ridge and established a 40-acre vineyard. And he went all the way, becoming an immediate leader in the organic grape growing movement, earning certification in 1990.

He planted Gamay Noir in separate blocks near the iconic brick house. In time, he took his farming practices to the next level, going biodynamic, which he proudly and prominently uses on the label of his wines, including his Gamay Noir. He’s produced a Gamay Noir since 1995.

Few winemakers in Oregon devote much attention to Gamay Noir, in part because consumers are more familiar with Pinot Noir. And winery owners and their accounts would rather see such acreage invested in higher-priced Pinot Noir.

At Brick House, Gamay Noir is presented with a fruity profile of raspberries, backed by cassis with notes of lilac, horehound and a touch of earthiness. Its brightness and juicy focus on acidity makes it ideal alongside turkey and other birds.

18200 Lewis Rogers Lane Newberg, OR 97132, 503-538-5136, brickhousewines.com.

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“They have great loyalty with the staff here,” Giambalvo said. “I have employees now who worked with me in ’98. That’s unheard of in the restaurant industry, so I’m very, very lucky.

There’s a real family spirit. The only reason I left was to open my own restaurant (with Carey), and I was in that partnership for 11 years before I had to reinvent myself.”

The legacy in the kitchen at Pazzo includes a remarkable list of chefs — Greg Higgins, Vitaly Paley, David Machado and John Eisenhart, who last year took his fascinating wine salt program to Nel Centro in Hotel Modera, where he works for Machado.

“It’s an incestuous city,” Giambalvo quipped. “There’s alumni from Pazzo who have gone on to make their own name, so it was a unique opportunity for me to come and complete the work I started. How rare is that?”

When Giambalvo is not focusing his time on his young family, he supports the farmers market and causes such as Portland Center Stage, the Cascade Aids Project and the Humane Society.

The richness of the stuffed quail with duck liver works will with the cherry, other red fruits and a touch of black pepper found in the Brick House Gamay. (See recipe, right)

WINEPRESSNW.COM

Grilled Stuffed Quail and Duck Liver with Wild Mushrooms, Braised Fennel, Cherry and Black Pepper Gastrique Serves 4 8 quail, semi-boneless 1 pound of fresh duck livers, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 pound of thinly sliced assorted mushrooms — crimini, oyster, chanterelles, shiitake 1 bunch of fresh thyme leaves, picked and chopped fine 1 yellow onion, sliced thin 6 cloves garlic, sliced thin 3 bulbs of fennel, quartered, core removed and sliced thin 1 cup vegetable broth 1 quart beef stock 2 shallots finely minced ½ cup dried sour cherries ¼ cup black peppercorns ½ cup red wine vinegar ½ cup sugar 2 cups red wine for cooking 3 ounces salted butter

Liver mixture preparation for stuffing 1. In a heavy bottom large braising pot, heat ¼ cup of cooking oil. Add half of the garlic and all of the yellow onion.

Cook just until the onions are transparent.

2. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, then continue cooking until the onions are just tender.

3. Remove the cooked mushrooms from the pot and place onto a cookie sheet pan.

Spread out to cool.

4. Heat some more oil in the braising pan while seasoning the liver evenly with salt and pepper and add to the pot.

5. Cook the liver just until firm. Do not overcook.

6. Transfer the livers to the sheet pan with the mushrooms, onion, garlic mixture and allow to cool.

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7. Once cool to the touch, transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl and stir in the chopped thyme. Set aside.

Stuffing the quail 1. Take a tablespoon of the liver mixture and spoon it into the cavity of each bird, utilizing all of the stuffing mixture evenly distributed between the eight birds.

2. Using a paring knife, make a small incision in one leg of each bird. Take the other leg and insert the end of the leg into the incision. This will help to keep the stuffing inside the bird while cooking.

3. Place the quail on a sheet pan and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to cook.

Braised fennel 1. In a large braising pot, heat some cooking oil. Add the remaining garlic and cook just until slightly browned. Add all of the fennel and continue cooking a medium flame until the fennel is just tender.

2. A little vegetable stock can be added during the cooking to help keep the fennel from browning.

3. Adjust seasoning with salt and black pepper.

4. Remove from the heat and hold until ready to serve.

Sauce 1. In a heavy bottom sauce pot, cook the sugar (use a little water to help dissolve the sugar) until a nut brown caramel color.

2. Add all of the vinegar to stop the sugar from continuing to brown. Keep arms and face away from the pot when adding the vinegar as it will splatter initially from the heat of the sugar.

3. Simmer until almost all of the vinegar has evaporated. Add the shallots, cherries, black peppercorns and red wine.

stock and simmer until reduced to about 1 pint.

5. Pass the sauce through a fine strainer into another sauce pot. Put back on the stove and bring to a simmer.

6. While whisking constantly, add the butter a little at a time while keeping the sauce at a simmer. Adjust the seasoning and keep the sauce warm until ready to serve.

Cooking the quail 1. In a large sauté pan, heat some cooking oil to almost smoking. Season the quail with salt and pepper. Carefully place each quail in the sauté pan breast side down a few quail at a time as to not overcrowd the pan.

2. Cook until each bird is golden brown on the breast side.

3. Flip the bird and sear the back side of each bird. Transfer the quail to a sheet pan, leaving about 1 inch of space between each bird.

4. Place the pan into an oven pre-heated to 400 Fahrenheit 5. Finish cooking the birds in the oven for about 8-10 minutes or until the breast feels firm or if the internal temperature of the quail reach 140 Fahrenheit when using a probe thermometer.

6. Remove from the oven and allow the quail to rest for about 5 minutes before serving.

Plating the dish 1. Spoon the fennel into the center of each dinner plate.

2. Arrange two pieces of quail per plate on top of the fennel.

3. Ladle approximately 2 ounces of sauce around the fennel.

4. Serve immediately.

4. Continue to simmer until reduced by half the volume of red wine. Add the beef

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Cured Salmon Belly and Leek Salad with Avocado and Tarragon Aioli on Bruschetta Serves 4

Cured salmon belly ingredients 1 Salmon belly with 2 ounces extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon curing salt 1 avocado, ripened 1 medium-sized leek 4 ounces tarragon aioli 4 ounces wild baby arugula 1 loaf of quality Italian bread 1 lemon, juiced 1 clove garlic Kosher salt Fresh ground black pepper 1. Mix 2 ounces of kosher salt, 1 ounce of sugar, 1 teaspoon of cracked black pepper, 1 teaspoon cracked coriander seeds and 1 teaspoon juniper berries and hold in a covered container.

2. Prepare the salmon for curing by laying the salmon skin-side down on a sheet tray lined with parchment paper.

3. Sprinkle the curing salt evenly over the salmon. Place another sheet of parchment paper on top of the salmon.

4. Place another sheet tray on top of the salmon and put about 2 pounds of weight on it — a quart of milk, for example.

5. Place the salmon in the refrigerator and cure the salmon belly for 48 hours.

6. Remove the salmon from the fridge and rinse the curing salt off the outside of the salmon. Pat dry with paper towel and wrap tight in plastic wrap.

7. Keep refrigerated until ready to use (up to 5 days). Place the salmon on a cutting board the length running left to right close to the edge of the board in front of you.

8. Using a very sharp slicing knife, slice the salmon into thin slices about 1/8-inch thick, making sure to curve the knife away before cutting through the skin.

9. Lay each salmon slice on lightly oiled parchment paper, one next to the other.

Once the sheet of parchment is filled, lightly oil the top of the salmon slices and 58

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place another sheet of parchment paper on top. Continue slicing the remaining salmon fillet.

10. This can be held in the refrigerator tightly wrapped until needed.

Leek preparation 1. Cut the leek lengthwise down the middle in two. Cut the halves across into 2-inch pieces.

2. Separate the layers and spread flat on the cutting board.

3. Slice the leeks into very fine strips about 1/16-inch thick. Place the sliced leek into a bowl of cold water and move the leeks around to sure all of the sand and dirt has been washed away.

4. Let stand in the cold water to allow for the dirt to settle. Remove the leeks without disturbing the dirt on the bottom.

5. Allow the leek julienne to drain and keep refrigerated and covered tight until needed.

Aioli ingredients Juice of 1 lemon 3 ounces grape seed oil 1 shallot, minced fine 1 ounce extra virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced fine 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves, finely chopped 1 egg yolk Kosher salt, and black pepper 1. Place the lemon juice, shallots, garlic, tarragon and egg yolk in a food processor bowl.

2. While the motor is running, slowly add the grape seed and olive oil to create an emulsion.

3. Adjust the seasoning, transfer to a tightly sealed container and keep refrigerated until needed.

Avocado 1 ripe avocado Juice of one lemon Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

around the pit. Twist the avocado to separate the two halves. Gently cut into the pit with a chef ’s knife and twist to remove the pit in one piece.

2. Using a paring knife, cut away the skin from the avocado.

3. Slice each half of avocado into 1/8 inch slices and fan out onto a plate.

4. Sprinkle with lemon juice, kosher salt and black pepper and let sit until ready to use. This can also be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to an hour prior to serving.

Bruschetta 1. Cut a clove of garlic in half and rub the cut side along the outside of a loaf of good crusty Italian bread.

2. Slice the bread into ½ inch thick slices.

Drizzle each side with a little olive oil and salt.

3. On a hot grill, toast the outside slightly and get a little char. If a grill is not available, toasting the slices under a hot broiler will suffice.

4. Set aside on a cooling rack until ready to serve. This step should be done as close to the moment of serving the dish as is possible.

Assemble the salad 1. In a very large mixing bowl, place the sliced cured salmon, arugula, avocado, leeks, a drizzle of lemon juice and olive oil, and lightly season with salt and black pepper.

2. Gently toss the salad together to evenly distribute the ingredients. Spoon about 1 ounce of aioli into the center of each of four plates.

3. Using the back of the spoon, spread the aioli out into a thin circle. Arrange the salad evenly onto the four plates directly on top of the aioli.

4. Cut each bruschetta slice into halves and arrange the bruschetta at the top of the plate alongside the salad.

5. Serve immediately.

1. Split the avocado by running a knife WINEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKERS

“It’s exhausting to operate your own restaurant, and it was a sacrifice on my family, so I decided I needed to regain my balance,” he said. “Pazzo has really provided that balance, and I’m having a great time. I’m creative again, and I’m not a slave to the stove.”

While he maintains an interest in regional wines, he leaves the wine list to Crosby, whose duties include the Portlandia-hip Bacchus Bar just off the hotel’s wine-themed lobby.

“It’s more of a cocktail-focused bar, but we just installed a keg system, so we’re excited to be able to pour wines on tap,” said Crosby, who supports King Estate’s Acrobat brand as well as Coopers Hall, headed up by Willamette Valley winemaker Phil Kramer of Alexeli Vineyard. “And we’re big fans of Adelsheim — a very iconic and responsible producer — and Stoller.”

The focus of her wine list is West Coast and Italian, “which is what it should be,” Crosby said. “I look for local wines of good value that you don’t find at the local grocery store to offer something different.”

The Match Maker assignment kept Giambalvo in the Willamette Valley for Pinot Gris by Lady Hill near Champoeg State Park and the fun Gamay Noir from Brick House on Ribbon Ridge.

“I really had fun with this,” Giambalvo said. “Wine is not meant to be kept on a shelf. I love how wine completes a meal.”

The pairing of the Pinot Gris with his Cured Salmon Belly and Leek Salad played upon the wine’s citrus, lemongrass and minerality.

“Do you go opposite or focus on a distinct flavor? That’s always the question,” he said. “With me, that’s more of an issue with white wine rather than red.”

Cured Salmon Belly and Leek Salad played upon the citrus, lemongrass and minerality profile of the Lady Hill Pinot Gris.

(See recipe, left)

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Lady Hill Winery $16 2014 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley 439 cases, 13.5% alc.

Longtime Oregon vintner Jerry Owen created this brand as a tribute to his 1,500-acre family farm a stone’s throw from Champoeg State Park, and Lady Hill serves as a remarkable next step for the co-creator of one of the Pacific Northwest’s most well-known brands: Owen Roe. Many of those wines have been made using grapes from Washington’s Columbia Valley, but Owen also established St. Columban Vineyard across Lady Hill Farm in 1995, land that’s been in Owen’s family for five generations since the 1850s. A reason for the continued success under the young 10,000-case brand can be explained in the relationship with winemaker Erik Brasher, the Michigan State University grad who played a key role in Owen Roe. Another connection to the heritage of the property can be seen in the label, created by Owen’s wife, Elaine, using historic images of Zorn House — built in 1862 and an iconic home for the family in 160 years since. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and named for Jerry Owen’s grandfather.

A fascinating layer to the story is Lady Hill’s historical approach to sourcing, which harkens back to the days before statehood for Oregon and Washington, a time when the region was known as joint-occupied Oregon Country and stretched into what is now Idaho and British Columbia. Oregon achieved statehood in 1859, but Zorn House was built three years earlier. And there’s a historic link to the time prior to statehood as Champoeg served as the seat of power for the provisional government, created in 1843 via a transfer of control from the Hudson’s Bay Co. Among the Owen family heirlooms is a desk from the Hudson’s Bay Co. It’s obvious that history and the nurturing of relationships remains important to Owen, whose longtime fruit sources include the Sauer family’s Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. And the opportunity to taste Lady Hill comes at the estate, across from the Champoeg State Heritage Area in a space shared with Sineann Winery. That brand is owned by the acclaimed Peter Rosback — who co-founded Owen Roe with David O’Reilly and Jerry Owen.

At Lady Hill, Owen promotes a concept he refers to as “True Northwest,” developing a regional constellation of five labels. Ad Lucem is focused on Rhône-style wines, while Procedo carries an Italian theme. Radicle Vines represent an introductory tier, and the cult Fons Amoris wines are vintage-driven, small-lot projects.

The Lady Hill brand is the most recognizable, working both sides of the Columbia River — including Washington’s Red Mountain — to produce wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes. That’s where the Pinot Gris fits in with its fruit-forward approach. Brasher blends this wine, billed as a tribute to the late David Lett, using grapes from St. Columban and beyond. It’s a crisp expression leading with Asian pear, starfruit and white peach, backed by flecks of minerality and citrusy acidity to serve with seafood and salad.

Lady Hill Winery, 8400 Champoeg Road, St. Paul, OR, 97137, 503-678-1204, ladyhill.net.

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MATCH MAKERS

His approach to the Brick House wine came more readily — Grilled Stuffed Quail with Duck Liver, Wild Mushrooms, Braised Fennel and Cherry Black Pepper Gastrique.

“On the Gamay, I got cherry, other red fruits and a little black pepper, so I wanted to bring that out with the reduction,” Giambalvo said. “The richness of the duck liver and the fennel worked well with the structure of the wine.”

The Match Maker project allowed him to refine the dish in advance of its spot on Pazzo’s seasonally driven offerings.

“I’ve done quail only as a special, but we are getting quail on the spring menu,” Giambalvo said. “Because of the USDA, the birds are a farm-raised, but I remember in the ‘80s getting squab and picking out buckshot with tweezers.”

That’s just crazy.

ERIC DEGERMAN is CEO and president of Great Northwest Wine (greatnorthwestwine.com).

••• Pazzo Ristorante

627 SW Washington, Portland, 97205, pazzo.com, 503-228-1515.

Hotel Vintage Portland

422 SW Broadway, Portland, 97205, hotelvintage-portland.com, 503-228-1212.

If someone only had 24 hours in the city, they could experience a lot of Portland right here in one element or another, according to Hotel Vintage general manager Sandy Burkett.

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COLUMN

grapes of roth

BY COKE ROTH

Try unrecognized wines from bad years

H

eartiest congratulations on reaching the last page; promising to be filled with folly rather than substance. If you opt to bore yourself with my typically self-indulging column, please accept my thanks in advance. I want to keep my columnist gig because, among other things, I make a huge amount of money by weaving this tapestry of cosmically boring wine-speak.

As I read my past columns, I've come to realize I consistently set forth circular, beguiling text, and the confused editor begrudgingly capitulates. You may have heard of the popular California winery and their tasty wares, Folie à Deux, named after the induced psychotic disorder where a crazy person (me) convinces a normal person (the editor) that he has the problem. Well, folks, if you are reading this edition of the Grapes of Roth, the editor has been sucked in again.

All of us succumb to the social tension of others in some form. Even the strongest of us buckle when someone brings out the expensive wine…the “Reserve”…the wine that got the 93 instead of the 92 awarded by some largely self-proclaimed wine pundit. We hipcheck the host and elbow the spouse to get just a smidgeon more than our share of the tête de cuvee. Mea culpa.

We can’t wait to try the 2006 because someone, someone that we have never met, someone without further credentials other than someone else said they were a wine guru, said it was a great year, or that it would pair splendidly with a roadside taco. By no means am I stumping for you to ignore the ’06, I merely implore you to stay objective on whether you actually like it.

Years ago I was judging the Okanagan, British Columbia, Wine Competition, just probably the most beautiful place on the globe (take my advice…go there), and one of the learned judges predicted that the 35 or so Chardonnays would disappoint due to them being from a “bad year.” A couple of the judges bowed in allegiance, until it was noted 62

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that we had 3 equally proportioned vintages in the flight.

The bad-year/good year thingy seems to be largely occupationally dependent. The grower measures a good year on tonnage/price, the winemaker based on a few chemical indicators, the wine critic on subjective taste, and the retailer on what sells.

All columnists for Wine Press have the opportunity to judge wine at competitions.

Vindication of my thoughts and clinical humility gain credence on this “make up your own mind” rant when you sit on a panel with a flight of 40+ wines, with an $85 wine nestled between a non-vintage bag-in-box and a $6.99 value brand from a quantity-focused area. While the expensive wine may display virtue, the judges often like the wine you walk past when you are shopping. Sometimes you get what you pay for when you avoid using price as an indicator of quality.

Fellow Wine Press columnist Dan Berger has most correctly noted that initial universal vilification of a year or a wine region is largely bullpucky. I am with him. I find that even when I, a self-proclaimed hedonist of all foods (except kimchi) and beverages (except mead) stump for a wine, non-family members actually sometimes listen….” tell me what I like, Coke”….poor souls.

In 1980, my pal Mike Wallace from Hinzerling Vineyards in Prosser, Wash., had a 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon in regular and reserve. When I told him I much preferred the regular, he wielded powerful words for all to remember: “A reserve doesn’t need to be better, it needs to be different.” Price tends to obscure our mental ledger; giving weight without necessarily giving substance.

Some wine critiques and members of the unwashed think a wine has no virtue unless the alcohol is blisteringly high and you need to hit the bottom of the bottle to get out a glass. My lovely wife and I grilled a nice steak, with which I tried a few of the bold reds, a Cab, a Merlot and a Sangiovese, and went

into uncharted territory with a Rosé and 3 whites; a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay and a Riesling. Hands down, the Riesling went better, in my humble opinion, with the steak… go figure. It was from a questionable year and I could not locate any critical comments either way, so my mind was open to enjoyment. Counterintuitively, the wine sang harmony with the food, at least in my mouth.

And my opinion is the best I know of.

I gotta tell ya, I struggle with this food/ wine marriage/pairing thing. If water weren’t full of chlorine, fluoride and freshly-deceased bacteria, I might…might…prefer water to wine with a meal instead of wine that is bold enough to invite a cigar to go outside and wrestle.

My pal, Jeff Gordon from Pasco, Wash., Gordon Estate Winery recently pointed out how well his Gewürztraminer Ice Wine went with….sausages. I tried his other reds and whites, and the sweet wine counterintuitively worked amazingly well, and it might work for you.

By now, the editor is making a therapy appointment, and my 900-word statutory limit is complete. I just hope I learned something by writing this exercise in legal misconduct…

For those of you still awake, I thank you for reading this literary model of clarity on wine, where I have attempted to set forth the consistent and paramount message to try the unrecognized wine from the bad year, with friends and food, in moderation, frequently.

Thanks for the money. is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panle. Learn more about him at www.cokerothlaw.com.

COKE ROTH

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