Wine Press Northwest Summer 2017

TINY LODGING GETAWAYS | ROS É TASTING RESULTS

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Summer 2017

WINE PRESS NORTHWEST I N T H I S I S S UE

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Wine Knows

The accidental wine capital

8 Swirl, Sniff & Sip

You’ve come a long way, Rosé 10 A Distant Perspective Judgings help consumers find affordable, quality wine

Touring Tri-Cities p12

12 72 Hours in the Tri-Cities 24 Unique lodging opportunities for the Northwest wine tourist 30 Non-grape fruit wines growing in popularity 36 Tasting Results Rosé is clearly the shiny new thing in the wine industry

Wine Auction p54

48 Columbia Gardens Wine Village poised for fall opening 52 Northwest Wine Events 54 Auction of Washington Wines climbs to No. 4 in U.S. rankings 62 Match Makers

Larks Southern Oregon wines in spotlight in Ashland

78 Grapes of Roth ​Smell the Pinot Gris

Match Makers p62

O N T H E C OV E R: HA RV EST M O O N OV E R SAG E M O O R V I N E Y A RD AT DAWN

BY R I CHARD D UVAL , R I CHARD D UVAL PH OTOG RAPHY

Over

50 Years of Construction Excellence Est.1964

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

509-582-1500 editor@winepressnw.com Contributor: Eric Degerman Contributor: Viki Eierdam Contributor: Andy Perdue Contributor: Dan Radil Contributor: Ken Robertson Tasting panel: Gregg McConnell, Katy Michaud, Andy Perdue, Mike Rader, April Reddout, and Paul Sinclair.

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Graphic designers: Misty Ayers and Jon Hooley Columnists: Dan Berger, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Andy Perdue Contributing photographers: Bob Bawdy Richard Duval Viki Eierdam, Dan Eierdam Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 E-mail: cperkins@winepressnw.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our web site www.winepressnw.com Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619, e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2017 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication

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COLUMN

the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

The accidental wine capital

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he Tri-Cities is an unexpected capital of the Washington wine industry.

Not a lot of vineyards here, not even a lot of wineries within its sprawling borders.

But the community, home to more than a quarter-million residents, is at the heart of Washington’s burgeoning wine industry. From here it is an easy one-hour drive to Walla Walla, 30 minutes to the heart of the Yakima Valley. To the southwest are the Horse Heaven Hills. This region's most famous winery Columbia Crest - is 30 minutes south of the Tri-Cities.

Between the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley and the Yakima Valley, it’s safe to say that within an hour’s drive of the Tri-Cities one can visit more than 200 wineries. Additionally, roughly 90 percent of wine grape vineyards are in that same 60-minute circle. By any definition, the moniker “Heart of Washington wine country” is accurate.

I’m not sure, however, that the community has completely embraced the wine industry and the potential it provides.

Tourism is the biggest opportunity for the Tri-Cities. Wine tourism attracts consumers with disposable income, people who are willing to spend their cash on the finer things of life.

Tom Drumheller understands the opportunity. He built the Ocean Lodge at Cannon Beach (one of the best places to stay on the Oregon Coast). And now he’s building the Lodge at Columbia Point, a boutique hotel in the heart of the Tri-Cities that will bring the accommodations deserving of the capital of Washington wine country.

The wine industry tends to raise the quality of life in its surrounding communities, and it’s certainly doing that in the Tri-Cities.

For years, the community has had a reputation for not having much of a restaurant scene. The locals, it seems, preferred chains over something more interesting. Anyone who says that's true today simply isn’t being honest.

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Thanks in no small part to the wine industry - four Tri-City wineries offer food service now - there are now a dozen great places to dine, all places worthy of the wineloving visitor.

I arrived in town in the summer of 1989.

Having grown up on the Kitsap Peninsula with a great view of the Olympic Mountains, I found the region barren and dusty. Through the years, sagebrush-covered hills have slowly been replaced by vineyards, which happily turn green under the perpetually blue skies.

Between the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley and the Yakima Valley, it’s safe to say that within an hour’s drive of the Tri-Cities one can visit more than 200 wineries.

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As a result, the region has become much more attractive, thanks in no small part to good weather, low cost of living, an absence of traffic and very little crime. I never thought I would say this, but it's a great place to live and raise a family.

The sprawling vineyards across Washington wine country’s most important regions help give the Tri-Cities the feel of Santa Rosa, Sonoma County’s largest city (roughly the same population as the Tri-Cities), the jumping off point to the Alexander Valley to the north, the Russian River Valley and Dry Creek Valley to the east, Anderson Valley to the northeast, Sonoma Valley to the south and, of course, Napa Valley to the east.

The Tri-Cities is blessed with an amazing highway system, the state's third-busiest airport and a highly educated population, thanks to the Pacific Northwest National Lab in Richland.

Most people who come here to visit arrive for a child's soccer or softball tournament.

Sports marketing is an important tourism

draw, and the Tri-Cities does that well, if only because few outdoor sports get rained out here. Parents looking for something to do when their kids’ games are over enjoy the robustness of the surrounding wine region, and the familiarity of chain restaurants has its appeal.

Now, the crown jewel of Washington wine education is in the Tri-Cities. Last year, the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Wine Science Center opened for business at Washington State University Tri-Cities in Richland. Funded by wineries and grape growers across the state, the center will not only help educate the industry's next generation, but it also will supply research into how to make Washington's already excellent wines even better. That important research has begun, and the results are rippling through the industry.

University of California-Davis helped build the California wine industry - and the American wine industry by extension through education and research. I believe the same thing will happen with the Wine Science Center. It’s going to attract some of the best and brightest, helping to transform the industry around it. This is a big deal, and the Tri-Cities surrounds it. By extension, it will elevate the entire community.

Just as the Yakima Valley is the cradle of the Washington wine industry, and the Walla Walla Valley is the center of red wine production in the state, the Tri-Cities is going to become the accidental capital of the state wine industry. For that reason, I'm glad to be here, and it will be fun to watch it unfold over the next couple of decades.

ANDY PERDUE is editor & publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company based in Richland. He’s also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

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COLUMN

swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

You’ve come a long way, Rosé

I

fell in love with dry rosé wine back in 1975 during a visit to Concannon Winery in the Livermore Valley during an impromptu tour with my brother, who lived in nearby Dublin, Calif., at the time.

The wine was a Zinfandel rosé and was close to bone dry, as I recall, and definitely not to be confused with the cloyingly sweet “pink zin” and “white zin” that was soon to flood onto the scene, a product made in giant vats of Olympic swimming pool proportions.

A few years later, my wife and I found a few bottles more of the Concannon, this time in a Seattle-area shop. But the world of wine in the late 1970s and early 1980s, when the Northwest wine industry was re-emerging from the decades-long torpor of Prohibition and the attendant destruction of vineyards, was focused elsewhere. Oak-aged Chardonnay had begun its reign as the favored white wine and Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot were leading the Northwest into a new red wine era.

Rosé was largely ignored, with an occasional pink, often off-dry or sweet version popping up, usually made from Pinot Noir in Oregon or occasionally from Gamay Beaujolais grapes. Preston Wine Cellars of Pasco made a rather sweet version of the latter that lasted for several vintages.

I recall a blind tasting one of my wine groups conducted, with a salmon bake to follow, at which one grape grower’s spouse was firmly convinced that one of the halfdozen pink wines — scrounged up with considerable effort across Washington and Oregon — had to be a rhubarb wine. It wasn’t, but the anecdote reveals the sad state of rosé in the Northwest in the early 1980s.

Twenty years later, dry rosé began to emerge in the Northwest. Rob Griffin at Barnard Griffin Winery in Richland, Wash., started making his Rosé of Sangiovese in 2002, a year after he had made a red Sangiovese and been disappointed with the result.

Drawing on grapes from his longtime grapegrowing friend, Maury Balcom, Griffin made 200 cases of rosé that first year, and it rapidly sold out.

By 2005, he and Balcom had the grape8

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growing elements dialed in — early picked grapes with more acidity and less sugar, which means lower alcohol from fermentation, and his Rosé of Sangiovese began an astounding run of medals and awards.

The result has been 11 gold medals over the past 12 years at the San Francisco Chronicle judging — the nation’s largest wine judging event. The San Francisco awards also include four sweepstakes and five times best of class, plus an array of medals in many other competitions, including several Platinum awards in Wine Press Northwest magazine’s annual judging of the Northwest’s finest wines.

Others might argue that many factors combined to make rosé more popular in the Pacific Northwest and the nation about 15 years ago. But it’s clear that since the Barnard Griffin began to win with regularity, the number of dry and slightly sweet rosés being made has blossomed.

For the tasting conducted as part of this edition of Wine Press Northwest, judges evaluated 122 different Northwest examples.

When I think back to that early 1980s blind tasting, for which it was hard to find a halfdozen Northwest wines, today’s output of rosé is amazing. The consumer can find 10 or 12 rosés in a single visit to a wine shop or grocery store.

In addition to the astounding quantity of rosé available in 2017, the quality has improved markedly. The two panels of judges, one of which I moderated, rated eight of these 122 rosés as double golds and another 22 as worthy of gold medals.

For the consumer, that’s doubly good news because you can buy that quality for very wallet-friendly prices. That award-winning Barnard Griffin from 2016 recently was on sale for about $10 at my local grocer. Even its full price is only $14. Many others sell for similar prices. And it’s hard to pay more than $25 for any Northwest rosé.

Wine words: Vertical tasting and blending No, this isn’t a geometry lesson. When applied to wine, vertical is about place and time. To learn something about a winery’s consistency over several years, a vertical tasting of vintages of a particular wine is helpful.

Over the years, I’ve attended many such tastings that featured just one winery. Among the most memorable was a six-year vertical tasting of Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignons that began with 1975 and concluded with 1981. It did not include 1979, a limited production wine made after a bitterly cold winter that killed most of the state’s Cabernet vines and which was not released until several years later.

That tasting proved a couple things to me: Ste. Michelle Cabernet could be consistent, since the 1975 and 1977 both had won several regional awards. And that sometimes aging a wine is well worth it. The 1976 was the tasting group’s favorite, picked over the two gold medal winners.

It was from a cooler year than its bigger, bolder siblings made the year before and the year after, and had matured into a complex, appealing wine with food while the ’75 and ’77 had begun to show some age.

Vertical blending, when done well, can combine several vintages of wine from select vineyards, of perhaps a specific American Viticultural Area (AVA) to display how that AVA influences the character of the wine.

The most recent example I’ve encountered came from Kiona Vineyards and Winery and was made from the 2012, 2013 and 2014 vintages in a bottling known as Pioneer Red. The label sports a 1980s vintage photo of the winery founders, John Williams and Jim Holmes, at the winery site. The name is especially suitable, since the two of them planted the first grape vines on Red Mountain back in 1975.

J.J. Williams, the grandson of the founder, believes the result displays over several years of grape growing the “sense of place” that Red Mountain imparts to the grapes grown there.

Vertical blending mitigates the individual impact of a single year and can emphasize the site’s overall character. This one definitely shows the influence of Red Mountain’s signature deep fruit and glacial soils. the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

KEN ROBERTSON,

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

COLUMN

a distant perspective

BY DAN BERGER

Judgings Help Consumers Find Affordable, Quality Wine

W

ine competitions, especially those that are properly run and have skilled judges, benefit consumers who seek expert advice in their quest to get great wines or good values.

And properly strategized competitions also help wineries determine whether their output meets current high standards and assist wholesalers in determining whether they have priced their latest offerings appropriately.

Judgings also can assist others in the industry who don’t trust number-driven single reviewers whose tasting strategies are completely unknown, flawed, or who may know little about a particular terroir or grape.

The term “properly strategized” means that the organizers understand the pluses and minuses of the chosen format. It may sound like a good idea, for example, to have a panel of 10 judges evaluate 100 wines, rank them by numerical score, add up the scores and divide by 10, and come up with rankings.

But there are many drawbacks to that, including logistics and that 10 great judges are hard to find. And if a competition has 1,500 wines, it would require 15 days of 100 wines daily to complete.

I have coordinated wine competitions since 1982 (to date I have organized 53 major competitions) and can tell you that the best panel size is four, which one might think would lead to votes tied 2-2. Such as two golds and two silver.

However, panels that use an odd number of judges (3, 5, etc.) can fall into the pitfall of “majority rules” and mediocre results.

The benefit of an even number is that whenever ties occur, the best way to break deadlocks is for panel members to discuss the wines and reach an amicable consensus. Professional judges work to compromise, and ties can almost always be resolved.

Uneven-numbered panels that rely on majority rules often lead to terrible results.

Some judges (occasionally younger judges) like to display their toughness by refusing to compromise. This means it’s hard to get gold medals, and thus the event must have rules to 10

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make gold medals a likely scenario.

Three-person panels pose a uniquely tricky situation when two persons have valid reasons to like a wine, but the third member sees his or her power to deny the wine any medal, for whatever reason (typically the egotistical ability to simply wield power).

At a recent wine competition in Calaveras County at which I was a judge on a threeperson panel, a wine received votes of gold from two of three judges, me and another judge. The third, having heard the other two vote Gold, said, “No award.”

Had the voting stood that way, G, G, NA, because of the way the judging was organized, that wine would have gotten a silver medal.

Not a gold.

It seemed the third judge simply was on a power trip to deny the other two judges the gold medal they had, independently, agreed on. (Had the third judge voted a bronze medal, the wine would have been awarded a gold, based on the event structure.)

The best three-person panel judgings I have ever witnessed (and participated in) have been 11 events I have been asked to judge in Australia. That nation runs the world’s finest competitions, by far, partly because the judges all respect the spirit of the event -- that all judges must respect the votes of others.

(In the Calaveras County event, one judge clearly was disrespectful of the other two judges and spitefully attempted to hijack the results. This happened more than the once.)

Moreover, the present method of three members per panel in this country is far too simplistic for a major, world-class competition. It assumes two (mediocre) palates, not skilled in seeing aberrant styles, are “better” than one person who has a valid argument, if not always mainstream.

I have faced situations many times where I voted a wine a gold medal, and two others voted no award, and the wine in question wasn’t considered for a bronze. It’s as if a valid argument for a gold medal is ignored by a “majority rules,” which ignores the possibility

that a slightly aberrant style is distinctive enough to warrant a medal, to reward a winemaker’s courage and adventurousness.

The critique I often get from those who prefer the “majority rules” system is, “What do you do with ties?”

Tie votes (such as two silver votes and two bronzes) are results devoutly to be wished for.

That’s because the four-person panel is thus required to initiate a discussion that can lead to consensus. And the two-silver, two-bronze vote should in most cases be compromised to silver. The only scenario in which a bronze is the better result is when a silver voter sees a valid argument against the wine, or where a bronze voter realizes his or her vote was weak and should be dropped.

The GGBB sort of split should not be an automatic silver medal. One side or the other should try to make a compelling case that the consumer is either benefited or to be warned.

It is also crucial to assess the number of wines each panel judges.

Assume 40 Chardonnays must be judged.

Is it too much of a burden for one panel to judge that many? Usually not. How about 55? Perhaps. But one goal of the competition should be to have each category judged entirely by one panel, with that panel advised that they should look for an appropriate percentage of golds.

In major competitions, the average percentage of gold medals is 7% to 10%, so with 40 Chardonnays, there should be between 3 and 4 gold medals – at the very least. It is feasible to have six or more if the wines display various styles. (This admonition before the judging helps the judges to understand that awarding only 1 or 2 gold medals to a class of 40 is probably a poor result.)

Consequently, it pays, when assessing the results of any competition, to ask who the judges were and how many sat on each panel.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowed wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

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tri-cities

72 HOURS IN THE

TRI-CITIES // BY ANDY PERDUE, SPECIAL TO WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

T

he Tri-Cities. You won’t find it listed that way on many maps, but the community of a quarter-million people at the confluence of three important rivers is the heart of the Washington wine industry. From here, it’s an easy hop to Walla Walla, the Yakima Valley, the Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain.

It’s a region now loaded with amenities, home to great restaurants, golf courses, brew pubs, persistently sunny days and a blissful absence of traffic.

Wine Press Northwest is based in the Tri-Cities. Here is our guide to our hometown.

THE TRI-CITIES As the name implies, there are three cities: Kennewick, Pasco and Richland.

There also are smaller towns, including West Richland, Benton City, Burbank and Finley. Confusing? Just roll with it. The community is connected by three rivers: the Columbia, the Yakima and the Snake.

The Lewis & Clark Corps of Discovery slept here before the last big push downriver to the Pacific.

​ isit more than a dozen wineries all within a few minutes of each other in the Red Mountain AVA.​ V Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images 12

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After that, farming arrived with the advent of the Grand Coulee Dam and Columbia Basin Project. Science arrived in full force during World War II with the Manhattan Project.

Wine has surrounded the community for a half-century and penetrated the Tri-Cities in the past decade, certainly bringing an increase in quality of life.

The Tri-Cities is not unlike Santa Rosa in Sonoma County as far as population, amenities and proximity to nearby wine regions. If you are considering a visit to Washington wine country, the TriCities should probably be your base of operations.

The town is at the southern end of the Columbia Basin. More than 300 crops are grown in the outlying rural areas, thanks to the magic of irrigation. The largest employer is the Pacific Northwest National Laboratory (with a staff of more than 4,000), so there are a lot of really smart people living here. It’s an interesting, diverse community.

GET TING HERE Arriving here is simple enough. Pasco is home to the state’s thirdbusiest airport served by Alaska, Delta, United and Allegiant airlines.

Get on the eastbound Interstate 90 in Seattle crossing the Cascades over Snoqualmie Pass, and you will be here in under four hours. It’s about two hours south of Spokane on Highway 395. Ride the train from Portland or drive here in three hours following the Columbia River east on I-84.

WHERE TO STAY As with any large community, there are plenty of motel choices in the Tri-Cities, primarily chains. We recommend you take advantage

​ unset at Corvus Cellars on Red Mountain​ S Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

Bicyclists and anglers enjoy the sunny weather along the Columbia River near Howard Amon Park in Richland.

Bob Brawdy, Tri-City Herald

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Budd’s Broiler, overlooking the Columbia River in Richland is one of the regions top steak houses. Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

Sailboat near Columbia Park in Kennewick Photo courtesy of the Tri-City Herald

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of hotels that are along the Columbia River, as they take advantage of the community’s greatest asset.

Courtyard Marriott, 480 Columbia Point Dr, Richland, 509-942-9400. In addition to being right on the Columbia River, it’s walking distance to several places to eat.

Red Lion Richland (Hanford House), 802 George Washington Way, Richland, 509-946-7611. One of three Red Lions in the Tri-Cities, this one is in the heart of Richland along the river.

Hampton Inn, 486 Bradley Blvd, Richland, 509-9434400. Another excellent choice along the Columbia.

Shilo Inn, 50 Comstock St, Richland, 509-946-4661. An older property along the river that is another affordable option.

Clover Island Inn, 435 N Clover Island Dr., Kennewick, 509-586-0541. Overlooking the river in downtown Kennewick at the base of the cable bridge, the Clover Island Inn has an on-site restaurant and is a stone’s throw from two others. A great jumping off point for getting to Walla Walla.

The Lodge at Columbia Point, 530 Columbia Point Dr., 509-713-7423. The newest hotel in town has a lot of buzz, partly because it’s being built by the Walla Walla man responsible for The Ocean Lodge on Cannon Beach. An 83-room, wine-themed luxury hotel along the river, near several restaurants, it is scheduled to open mid-June.

Corvus Casa, 32807 Vineyard View PRNE, 99320 Benton City, 509-241-0318. For those looking to wake up with a view of vineyards, this guest house on Red Mountain is perfect. Can easily hold four couples with a deck that looks out over Red Mountain.

WHERE TO EAT An old axiom about the Tri-Cities was that there are no good places to eat. And while the community still has a well-earned reputation for supporting chain restaurants, those who want to dine at delicious, locally owned establishments have ample choices now.

The wine industry certainly is contributing to the changing Tri-City culinary scene, as several wineries have opened their own restaurants.

The Kitchen at Barnard Griffin, 878 Tulip Lane, Richland, 509-627-0266. A full menu is available for lunch and dinner most days, just off the tasting room.

J. Bookwalter, 894 Tulip Lane, Richland, 509-627-5000. The first winery/restaurant in the Columbia Valley serves lunch and dinner daily with a focus on local ingredients.

Gordon Estate Wine Bar, 5236 Outlet W INEPRESSNW.COM

tri-cities Dr., Pasco, 509-412-1225. A full lunch and dinner menu along with Gordon Brothers delicious wines. Near the freeway to Walla Walla.

Terra Blanca Vineyard Grill, 34715 Demoss Road, Benton City, 509-588-6082.

Terra Blanca has teamed up with a local caterer to provide meals on the terrace.

This Red Mountain winery offers sweeping views of the Yakima Valley.

Tagaris Winery, 844 Tulip Lane, Richland, 509-628-1619. Fine dining inside this winery, with a full lunch and dinner menu.

Lulu’s Craft Bar and Kitchen, 606 Columbia Point Dr., Richland, 509-713-7880.

The newest Tri-City restaurant, Lulu’s takes full advantage of its location near the Columbia River with a great deck and a delicious menu - food and drink - sourced locally.

Anthony’s at Columbia Point, 550 Columbia Point Dr., Richland, 509-9463474. Westsiders are familiar with this

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Spectacular views, fine wine and food greet visitors at Terra Blanca winery on Red Mountain.

Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

J. Bookwalter in Richland is a winery/restaurant that serves lunch and dinner with a focus on local ingredients.​ Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

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Corvus Casa’s guest house can hold up to four couples and offers a view of the vineyard and Red Mountain from the deck.

Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

regionally owned chain. The Richland location has quickly established itself as the go-to place in town, thanks to the great seasonal menu, deep wine list and great location along the Columbia River.

Budd’s Broiler, 450 Columbia Point Dr., Richland, 509-946-8178.

This steakhouse is part of the Anthony’s empire, with an emphasis on turf over surf.

3 Eyed Fish, 1970 Keene Road, Richland, 509-628-3255. From the owners of LuLu’s is this wine bar with casual dining. Lots of winefocused dinners, this is not far from Red Mountain and other wineries.

Stick+Stone, 3027 Duportail St., Richland. Great pizzas, soups and sandwiches. Great beer list. Not far from Red Mountain.

Atomic Ale Brewpub, 1015 Lee Blvd., Richland. 509-946-5465.

This nuclear-themed pub features great craft beer, pizza and other pub grub. Great lunch stop.

Brick House Pizza, 3791 Van Giesen St., West Richland. 509-9673733. Great pizza and beer in a casual setting. Not far from Red Mountain.

Ethos Bakery and Cafe, 2150 Keene Road, 509-942-8417. Coffee shop and bakery that has great local reputation. With a casual dinner menu ideal for takeout.

Graze, 8530 W Gage Blvd., Kennewick., 509-221-1020, and 735 The Parkway, Richland, 509-713-7699. Gourmet sandwich shop that started in Walla Walla has expanded with two locations in Tri-Cities.

Ideal for takeout for vineyard picnics.

Monterroso’s, 1026 Lee Blvd., Richland, 509-946-4525. Fine Italian dining in an antique railroad dining car. Reservations recommended.

Barnard Griffin in Richland is well know for its Rosé of Sangiovese. It’s also well known for farm to fork cuisine at The Kitchen which connects the tasting room to db Studio where the fused glass art created by winery coowner Deborah Barnard is on display.

Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

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Bin 20, 2525 N 20th Ave., Pasco, 509544-3939. This wine bar inside the Pasco Red Lion has a great wine list and delicious casual dining menu. Near the TriCities Airport and close to the freeway to Walla Walla.

Ice Harbor Brewing Co. 206 N Benton St., Kennewick, 509-582-5340. Great local craft beer producer known for burgers (and its support of veterans) with two restaurant locations. The marina location on Clover Island (350 N Clover Island Dr.) offers river views.

Cedars Restaurant, 355 N Clover Island Dr., Kennewick, 509-582-2143. A longtime local hangout with a fine-dining dinner menu, a full bar and a popular boat-friendly dock overlooking the Columbia River.

WINERIES Needless to say, there are plenty of wineries within short driving distance. Planning for a three-day visit to the Tri-Cities is fairly easy because one day can be spent on Red Mountain, one day touring Tri-City

Red Mountain Trails offers horse-drawn wagon rides through the vineyards. Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

Goose Ridge Estate Vineyard and Winery, just a couple minutes off of I-82 in Richland offers outdoor and indoor seating.

Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

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tri-cities

Outdoor seating overlooking the vineyard at Fidélitas on Red Mountain.

Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images

wineries, then a day for heading to nearby Prosser or Walla Walla. Here are a few suggestions.

Red Mountain: Located on the edge of town between Benton City and West Richland, it is home to nearly a dozen wineries, all within a few minutes of each other. Wineries such as Kiona, Tapteil, Hightower, Hamilton, Côtes de Ciel, Hedges, Frichette and Fidélitas are all along Sunset Road. Around the corner on DeMoss Road are Terra Blanca and Tucannon Cellars. Near the top of Red Mountain is Col Solare, the crown jewel of the region. Nearby wineries include MonteScarlatto, Corvus Cellars, Upchurch Vineyard, Chandler Reach, Goose Ridge, Anelare, Sleeping Dog and Purple Star.

A cluster of wineries - all with restaurants near the freeway in Richland - are Barnard Griffin, Bookwalter and Tagaris.

Not far from these three are Powers/Badger Mountain Vineyards, Kitzke, Goose Ridge and Market Cellars, Farmhand Winery, Longship Cellars and Sun River Vintners.

Canyon Lakes Golf Course in Kennewick is one of the state’s top-ranked courses.

Bob Brawdy, Tri-City Herald

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Prosser and its dozens of wineries are an easy 30-minute drive on the way back to Seattle. Columbia Crest, one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest wineries, is another 30 minutes south of town.

OTHER ACTIVITIES Want a break from wine touring?

There are plenty of activities in the TriCities. Here are a few ideas: Golf: With perpetual sunshine and 10 regional courses, there’s plenty of opportunity to work on your golf game.

The river: The Columbia River is the community’s greatest asset. Enjoy strolls along more than 25 miles of cycling trails, kayaking, waterskiing, fishing and other activities. If you’re a fan of loud boats and big crowds, show up the last full weekend in July for the annual Water Follies festival and unlimited hydroplane races.

Join thousands of other fans who line the banks of the Columbia River.

History: Lewis and Clark buffs will

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Visitors of all ages enjoy the Gesa Carousel of Dreams in Kennewick’s Southridge area.

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tri-cities want to visit Sacagawea State Park in Pasco, where the intrepid duo camped Oct. 16, 1805, on their way to the Oregon Coast. The park includes an interpretive center (confirm hours before you go) and an outdoor art installation by Maya Lin. If you can score a tour of the B Reactor on the Hanford site outside Richland, you can see the world’s first full-scale atomic reactor, which played a key role in the end of World War II. Sports: Sports fans can take in a minorleague baseball game in the summer with the Tri-City Dust Devils (Seahawks quarterback Russell Wilson played here one season) or a hockey game with the TriCity Americans of the Western Hockey League.

Easy access to the river at Columbia Park in Kennewick makes for an active shoreline and tranquil sunset sail.

Photo courtesy of the Tri-City Herald.

ANDY PERDUE is editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-wining media company. He is also the Sunday wine columnist for The Seattle Times.​

A colorful sunset reflects off the calm waters of the Columbia River.

Bob Brawdy, Tri-City Herald

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FEATURE

tiny houses

Unique lodging opportunities for the Northwest wine tourist

BY VIKI EIERDAM

S

weeping vineyard views and intoxicating layers of fruit that dance from bottle to glass are often the only accessories needed for a perfect wine getaway.

From homes to campers to yurts, curious travelers are finding that a tiny lodging experience can have a big impact on the memories made while exploring a new wine region or well-worn trail.

The concept of tiny house living continues to romance and fascinate many, but the reality of paring down to the essentials can be an intimidating proposition. Whether living in a few hundred square feet resonates with every reader, one thing is for sure, overnighting in some unique lodging will punctuate the gorgeous vistas and the award-winning wine.

Who knows, you might even come home itching to craft your own tiny escape?

ALEXANDRIA NICOLE CELLARS 2880 Lee Rd, Suite D Prosser, WA 509-786-3497 www.alexandrianicolecellars.com Featured on HGTV Tiny House, Big Living Jet Black Syrah and Gravity Merlot both come in at just under 400 square feet and take full advantage of bringing in the warm, dry days of Eastern Washington. With sleek, modern touches, Jet Black is a blend of New York art gallery and Northwest upcycling. A repurposed fermentation tank dispenses your choice of red or white from convenient kegs, used staves from oak barrels create eye-pleasing texture to a living room wall, a roll-up garage door adds outdoor square footage and the bedroom is oriented

to greet the day with vineyard and Gorge views. Gravity sports rustic innovation like the cast iron hand crank that drops the kitchen table down and retracts it up effortlessly, the sliding barn door that reveals a wispy yet masculine bedroom, a retro kitchen highlighted by a teal stove top and white farm sink and an outdoor Murphy bed on the deck.

Last August, Epiphany Viogner and Affinity Albariño joined the tiny house options and are outfitted with the same attention to detail as Jet Black and Gravity.

It’s hard to imagine a more tranquil setting than the one offered by the Jet Black tiny house at Alexandria Nicole Cellars in Paterson, Wash., surrounded by vineyards, overlooking the Columbia River.

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Dan Eierdam Contributing Photographer W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

tiny houses FEATURE THE VINTAGES TRAILER RESORT 16205 SE Kreder Road Dayton, OR 97114 971-267-2130 www.The-vintages.com Set in the heart of Willamette Valley wine country, this is where Airstreams, Westwoods and other campers of a bygone era come to rest. Many restored by FlyteCamp out of Bend, Ore., these vintage trailers evoke nostalgia with their black and white checkered flooring, wood-paneled walls and air conditioning. What? Okay, so modern amenities have been retro-fitted where appropriate.

Every one of the 31 cozy campers is outfitted with two vintage-style bikes, bright outdoor furniture, a mini propane barbecue and accoutrements like Roku streaming sticks, hispeed internet and luxury linens, towels and toiletries.

It wouldn’t be a resort without a pool, hot tub, the on-site Willamette Wine Country General Store (stocked with local beer, awardwinning wines and s’mores-making kits) and laundry facilities. Looking to reduce your carbon footprint? Take the complimentary bikes for a spin or hoof it 15 minutes over the Yamhill River via footbridge to downtown

Upgraded sleeping accommodations in vintage trailers at The Vintages in Dayton Ore., let visitors take a nostalgic trip back in time is style and comfort.

Enjoy a bicycle ride or the fare from an area winery on your patio when you stay at the Vintages.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Viki Eierdam

Viki Eierdam

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FEATURE

tiny houses

Dayton where you can taste at Seufert Winery, partake in culinary-of-the-moment and comfort food at The Barlow Room and finish it off at Mayberry-esque Archie’s Ice Cream. June through August be sure to catch Dayton Friday Nights, highlighting a throwback, family-friendly atmosphere with live music, local vendors and antique cars.

CHERRY WOOD BED BREAKFAST AND BARN 3271 Roza Drive Zillah, WA 98953 509-829-3500 www.cherrywoodbbandb.com Innkeeper Pepper Fewel and trail boss Tiffany Fewel have created a magical glamping experience in the Yakima AVA. Their love for horses and sharing country life with city slickers was the inspiration for elevated camping in roomy teepees outfitted with cozy beds, a mini-fridge and all the amenities you’d expect from a hotel room with the bonus of private, open-air showers and outdoor seating and barbeque grills for each teepee. Situated on a bluff, views of orchards and vineyards abound. For truly unique pampering, slip into a twilight tub—complimentary with any two-night stay. Tucked behind a stone and willow enclosure, three cast iron bathtubs have been plumbed for soaking under the

Nothing beats soaking in the twilight tubs at Cherry Wood Bed Breakfast and Barn after a grueling day of wine tasting in the Yakima Valley.

stars surrounded by warm water and stressrelieving bath salts.

Lodging prices include a full breakfast on weekends and a continental option on weekdays. Pepper presides over the kitchen, and she keeps it cowboy hearty with a focus on the fresh produce that grows abundantly in the Valley.

For a unique lodging experience check into “Spirit of the Horse” teepee at Cherry Wood in the Yakima valley.

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Photo courtesy of Wild Dog Studios.

Photo courtesy of Wild Dog Studios

For an additional fee, guests can partake in a Cowboy Limo or Horseback Winery tour where Cultura Wine (featuring winemaker, Tad Fewel) is sure to be a stop.

HOBBIT HOLE Mountain Springs Road Orondo, WA 98843 www.airbnb.com/rooms/8794484 Self-professed DIY gal, Kristie Wolfe, constructed a hygge (pronounced hue-guh) and opened it to overnight guests in the Spring of 2016. Hygge is actually a Danish concept loosely meaning “cozy.” Wolfe nailed it with a 288-square-foot hobbit hole built into the mountainside. A tiny living room sports a propane fireplace with rock surround and details like a drinking water barrel hanging from one wall, a locally-made woodworking bench with tools that guests are welcome to use and a beautiful hand-made chess table accent every inch. The large round entrance door theme is carried over into two smaller windows reminiscent of a ship’s cabin, and the first thing travelers see is a warm and inviting bed with lanterns that hang from overhead, casting warm lighting throughout the space. The bathroom is outfitted with antiques, a large soaker tub and a graceful driftwood sink. Drink in rolling hills and peek-a-boo Columbia Gorge view from bed W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

LET

DESTINY BRINGYOUTOGETHER Estate at Destiny Ridge

offers an exquisite vineyard destination for your wedding.

Hobbit Houses are tucked away into the hillside of Columbia River Gorge mountainside.

Courtesy of Kristie Wolfe

or the stone patio bordered by a wattle fence, gate and abundant whimsical touches.

If you can pull yourself away from this magical spot, it is a 20-minute drive to the entrance of the Lake Chelan wineries including Ventimiglia Cellars, One Wines and Vin du Lac Winery.

VIKI EIERDAM is a freelance writer based in Vancouver, Wash. and produces Savor Sip and Sojourn

Alexandria Nicole Cellars Our wine journey began in 1998 when we broke ground on DESTINY RIDGE VINEYARD located in the beautiful Horse Heaven Hills.

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Christopher Tack Courtesy of Kristie Wolfe W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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FEATURE

fruit wine

Non-grape fruit wines growing in popularity STORY BY D A N R A D I L PHOTOGRAPHY BY Z A C C H O R E L I F R E S C O B A L D I - G R I M A L D I

I

s there a place at the table for Washington fruit wines made from anything other than traditional wine grape varietals? Of course.

And while wine purists may be reluctant to consider the virtues of something in their wine glass made from blackberries, raspberries or black currants, one whiff and sip of a locally-produced fruit wine may make them think otherwise.

It starts by often using fresh, high-quality ingredients and ends with stunning wines that frequently elicit a ‘wow’ response…especially from those expecting to taste nothing more than sweet, alcohol-laden fruit juice.

Pasek Cellars, south of Mount Vernon in Skagit County, and Samson Estates Winery, near Everson in Whatcom County, are two of just a handful of Washington wineries that make fruit wines on a regular basis. They have developed a loyal and larger-than-you’dexpect customer base and have successfully established a niche within the state’s wine industry.

“we call ourselves a ‘just-in-time winery’ because we normally make our wines to keep up with demand,” which can be any time of year.

“We have good sources of growers that we buy from, including a cranberry grower in Washington, blackberries from a grower in Oregon and raspberries mostly from Skagit and Whatcom County.”

She points out that having enough freshfrozen fruit on hand is key to the process, with the thawed fruit fermented and stored in poly and stainless steel tanks after adding water, sugar, yeast and nutrients.

“Four to six months is not an unusual turnaround time…from the time we bring the fruit in to the time (it’s bottled) and out the door. There’s also no need to age these

wines…and we want them consumed within a year.”

While the year-round winemaking process can be challenging, Pascale says, “(David) and I both have manufacturing backgrounds,” which they’ve found to be extremely helpful. “With all the logistics and how things flow through the process…our winery is more manufacturing-based rather than fine wine making-based because our fruit doesn’t have the sensitivities that grapes do.”

Pasek’s annual case production is at 12,000-plus cases, which puts it in the top 5-percent of all Washington wineries.

Cranberry wine is far and away Pasek’s biggest seller and, not surprisingly, most popular during October, November, and

PASEK CELLARS Gene and Kathy Pasek opened the original Pasek Cellars tasting room in Mount Vernon in 1997 before moving it to its present location in Conway in 2002. The Paseks sold the winery (which includes a second tasting room in Leavenworth that opened in 2004) to husband-and-wife owners David James and Judy Pascale about two years ago.

Pascale notes that the process for producing fruit wines differs somewhat from producing wines from traditional grapes. “All of our fruit wine is made from whole, frozen fruit, except pineapple and passion fruit, which are made from concentrate.” Rather than crushing and making the wines each fall, 30

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Pasek Cellars tasting room associate Chris McGrath (right) pours wine for a customer.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

fruit wine FEATURE December to complement roast turkey. Blackberry tends to have a steady demand throughout the year, and pineapple, passion fruit, raspberry, blueberry, and loganberry are on hand as well (with the latter three also offered as fortified dessert wines).

Pasek tasting room associate Chris McGrath recommends serving the loganberry wine with Stilton cheese, while Pascale suggests the blackberry wine in a reduction sauce with barbequed salmon. For those looking for more traditional varietals, McGrath says, “we’re the official Tulip Festival winery (of the Skagit Valley)…and we produce one tuliplabeled red and one white wine that changes from year to year.” A Syrah Port is also available on the current tasting menu.

SAMSON ESTATES WINERY Whatcom County’s Samson Estates Winery opened its doors in 2002, just a few miles southeast of Lynden. The winery is on the nearly 500-acre family farm, which grows its own raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and black currants.

Owner/winemaker Rob Dhaliwal graduated from Washington State University and worked at Coventry Vale Winery in Grandview prior to helping establish Samson Estates.

Although fruit wines have always been the winery’s specialty, it’s raspberry that has been

Current releases from Pasek Cellars include wines made from a wide variety of fruits including loganberry, blueberry, raspberry, passion fruit and others.

the consistent best seller. “Part of that is probably due to the fact that raspberry is what I grew up with,” says Dhaliwal, “and I know what a raspberry should taste like. We grow several different varieties on the farm and there are certain ones that work better as wine.”

One of the problems in making fruit wines, he notes, is that the berries only have about 10 to 12 brix levels at harvest. In addition to yeast, “We have to add sugar and water. Without the sugar, we’d have pretty weak wine and without the water, it would be too syrupy. But you can dictate the acid and sugar contents, which vary with each batch.”

Dhaliwal also likes that his finished wines can be stored in 55-gallon drums until ready to use. “We keep our wines in cold storage, which allows us to match up production with demand.” Another advantage: as little as 10 weeks is all that is needed from thawing the fruit to bottling the wine.

The winery produces two tiers of fruit wines based on sweetness levels: artisan fruit wines that generally have residual sugar contents ranging from 2 to 4-percent; while ···

PASEK CELLARS

Open Daily, 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM 18729 Fir Island Road, Mount Vernon (360) 445-4048 pasekcellars.com

SAMSON ESTATES WINERY

Gina Whatley, Samson Estates tasting room associate, pours a glass of “Delilah” Blackberry Wine.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Hours Vary By Season. Currently Open Daily, 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM 1861 Van Dyk Road, Everson (360) 966-7787 samsonestates.com S u m m e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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artisan dessert wines, perfectly balanced with alcohol fortification, usually run from about nine to 14-percent.

There’s also the Oro Hazelnut wine, from Holmquist Hazelnut Orchards near Lynden.

Produced in a beautiful, elongated bottle, Dhaliwal notes, “it’s not as intense as Frangelico and very smooth. It also pairs great with tiramisu,” and Cougar Gold cheese.

Other notable food pairings he suggests are the blueberry wine with Brie cheese and the raspberry or blackberry wines with barbeque chicken, smoked salmon or pork tenderloin.

For those who enjoy more traditional varietals, Samson also offers a Riesling, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah. Dhaliwal says that he needed to give these wines a second, distinct label within about three years of opening the winery to set them apart from the fruit wines. He cites his consistent prices and quality Eastern Washington vineyard sources as reasons why these wines are so popular among “non-fruit” wine drinkers.

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FUTURE CHALLENGES One of the challenges that has been and continues to be an issue for the fruit wine industry is the stigma of something introduced over 50 years ago: Gallo’s Boone’s Farm wines.

“When I was growing up, ‘fruit wine’ was cheap Boone’s Farm,” says Pascale with a laugh, and Dhaliwal agrees. “When people think fruit wines they think of Boone’s Farm and Arbor Mist, which is cheap, white wine with sugar flavoring. That’s a misconception we’re trying to get away from,” he says.

He goes on to note that the difference today is the use of real fruit during production, which Pascale says results in a “true-tothe-fruit” wine.

Fortunately, Pasek and Samson’s proximity to and use of fresh fruit sources, coupled with their surprising food-pairing potential, have gradually changed wine consumer’s minds.

That should virtually assure there will always be a place at the table for fruit wines produced by Washington state wineries.

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2nd Annual Public Wine Tasting & Awards Presentation Information and Registration @ BellinghamNorthwestWineFesival.com

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rosé

RO S É I S CL E AR LY THE S HIN Y NE W T H I N G I N T HE WINE IN DUS TRY

Northwest rosé all day, every day

BY E R I C D E G E R M A N ndustry data from The Nielsen Co. shows sales of rosé priced at more than $7.99 in the U.S. grew I by 56 percent in 2016. And these aren’t cheap blush-style wines either. Rosé also carried the highest average price in the report — $13.28.

Zinfandel was next at $10.65.

This spring, two of the wine world’s most well-known writers, Portland’s Katherine Cole and Los Angeles-based Master of Wine Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan, each released books devoted to rosé.

Four years ago, organizers in Sonoma launched the international Rosé Today wine competition.

Visit social media channels such as Instagram, Pinterest or Twitter, search for the hashtag #RoséAllDay, and there will be an endless screen of fetching photos.

Heck, there’s even a brosé movement. The Provence Wine Council claims that men in the U.S., Australia and Russia drink pink in equal numbers to women.

In France, consumption of rosé accounts for nearly one of every three bottles, and Southern 36

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Rhône always has been the inspiration for Chris Upchurch, founding winemaker for DeLille Cellars in Woodinville. Wine Press Northwest’s reigning Washington Winery of the Year has produced a serious, food-friendly rosé for a decade.

“Rosé has somewhat of an image as not a high-end wine, and my partners initially questioned me on why I thought we should do this,” Upchurch said. “I told them rosé really can be an outstanding wine, and it will bring a bit of casualness to the winery.”

DeLille launched it with the 2008 vintage under their Rhône-themed Doyenne label.

They soon learned consumers, not just critics, adored dry rosé.

“We made it; we put it into our Carriage House and it sold out in a month,” Upchurch smiled. “Everybody would try it and go, ‘Hey, this is really good. This isn’t Lancers.’ ” Upchurch’s Old World inspirations come via Domaine Tempier from Bandol, Domaine Orr from Provence and several Grenache rosés from Tavel. That’s why the DeLille Cellars 2016 Rosé continues its approach with a classic

blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

It’s produced in the style of Provence, where the grapes are lightly crushed, left on the skins for hours, pressed and then fermented to dryness. As a result, Provencal rosé often carries a very light color.

On the other hand, the saignée (pronounced “son-yay”) method involves bleeding off juice early on from a red wine fermentation, then fermenting that pink juice separately. It is a practice scorned in Provence but rather common in the New World. Saignée is French for “bleed.”

In April, Wine Press Northwest staged what is believed to be the largest-ever judging of rosé made in Washington, Oregon and Idaho.

Fortunately, many of these rosés should also be relatively easy to find as 19 entries surpassed a production of 1,000 cases.

“The world is changing, and one of the ways it’s changing is that people are getting into more interesting wines,” Upchurch said.

The panel included Kate Michaud, winemaker at Double Canyon in West Richland, Wash.; April Reddout, wine program director W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

rosé TASTING RESULTS

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Prices are suggested retail.

at the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center in the Yakima Valley; Gregg McConnell, editor/publisher of Wine Press Northwest; Andy Perdue, wine columnist for The Seattle Times; Eric Degerman, president/CEO of Great Northwest Wine in Richland, Wash.; Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; Mike Rader, Great Northwest Wine tasting panelist; and Paul Sinclair, Great Northwest Wine tasting panelist.

The judging took place at the Clover Island Inn in downtown Kennewick.

Here are the results:

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Outstanding!

Brian Carter Cellars 2016 Abracadabra Rosé, Columbia Valley $25 Wine Press Northwest’s 2015 Washington Winery of the Year is a master blender, and Brian Carter shows that with this rosé that topped the judging.

It’s a blend of five varieties, primarily Sangiovese and Grenache, and his process involves some production using the saignée method. This checks all the boxes with aromas of strawberry freezer jam, pink raspberry and plum juice with cherry skin tannins and a pinch of cinnamon. It’s done virtually bone-dry with 0.4% residual sugar, making for an incredibly mouthwatering finish. (13.7% alc., 555 cases) Love That Red Winery 2016 Love That Rosé, Columbia Valley $18 Bellevue businessman Terry Wells pays homage to Love That Red – an acclaimed Thoroughbred who ran at Santa Anita – with this nascent boutique brand, and his inaugural rosé project is a tribute to Southern Rhône with its blend of Syrah (69%), Cinsault (15%), Grenache (9%) and Mourvèdre. Aromas of red currant, golden raspberry, watermelon and baking spice are matched on the palate, backed by nibble of red plum in the ultracrisp finish. It’s a remarkable first effort with rosé.

(12.2% alc., 56 cases) Del Rio Vineyards 2016 Grenache Rosé, Rogue Valley $17 The Wallace family owns and farms one of Oregon’s most important vineyards, and their wine-

maker, Jean-Michel Jussiaume, continues to show why the Rogue Valley can shine with Rhône varieties. This is 100 percent Grenache, and the 48 hours of skin contact brings charming florals with strawberry and honeysuckle. Inside, there’s more strawberry with pomegranate and cranberry.

Orangy acidity and minerality in the back bodes well with spicy chicken, frittatas, antipasto and springtime salads. This also earned a gold medal at the international 2017 Rosé Today competition in Sonoma. (12.5% alc., 1,149 cases) Jones of Washington Winery 2016 Rosé of Syrah, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $14 Best Buy! Victor Palencia just keeps winning people over with his rosé program under various projects. His work on behalf of the Jones family in Quincy, Wash., opens with an enticing fruit punch color and remains slightly off-dry. Aromas of strawberry and rose petal lead to complex flavors of currant, cranberry and blueberry. A hint of saddle leather, often found in Syrah, adds to the complexity and long finish. It carries the residual sugar (1.6%) beautifully, and visitors to Wenatchee’s Pybus Market can taste it at the Jones tasting room. (13.1% alc., 874 cases) Territorial Vineyards 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $18 Eugene winemaker Ray Walsh pulled in this lot of Jackson clone Pinot Noir from the estate Bellepine Vineyard on Sept. 10, and the short cold-soak makes for aromas of cherry and raspberry with French vanilla and a rub of lavender. There’s no S u m m e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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rosé. rosé.

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(13.5% (13.5% alc., 5,082 alc., 5,082 cases)cases)

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That’s That’s realized realized on the onpalate the palate as as this delicious this delicious rosé, rosé, a blend a blend of Mourvèdre of Mourvèdre (35%), (35%), with with alluring alluring aromas aromas and charming and charming flavors flavors of of strawberry-rhubarb strawberry-rhubarb and watermelon and watermelon flavors flavors lead lead to toMalbec Malbec (35%), (35%), Lemberger Lemberger (11%), (11%), Tempranillo Tempranillo strawberries strawberries and cream. and cream.

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(13.1% alc., 2,400 a snap of acidity.

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(14.5% (14.5% alc., 108 alc., cases) 108 cases) aromas aromas of peaches of peaches and cream and cream and lime and lime peel.peel. cases)cases) There’s There’s a tasty a tasty roundness roundness to itstostructure its structure as it as swirls it swirls Saviah Saviah Cellars Cellars Milbrandt Vineyards Milbrandt Vineyards in orange, in orange, apricot apricot and Bing and Bing cherry cherry flavors. flavors.

(13.5% (13.5% 20162016 Rosé, Rosé, Walla Walla Walla Walla Valley Valley Rosé, Columbia Valley Rosé, Columbia Valley $18 $1820162016 $13 $13alc., 190 alc., cases) 190 cases) WallaWalla Walla’s Walla’s Richard Richard FunkFunk continues continues to affirm to affirm his hisBest Best Buy!Buy! Millennial Millennial winemaker winemaker EmilyEmily Haines Haines Indian Creek Creek Winery Winery statusstatus as one as of one Washington’s of Washington’s mostmost talented talented and and takestakes a Rioja a Rioja approach approach with with this succulent this succulent SyrahSyrah Indian Dry Dry Rosé, Rosé, Snake Snake River River Valley Valley $16 $16 versatile versatile winemakers winemakers with with this stunning this stunning rosé that rosé that rosé that rosé that includes includes Tempranillo Tempranillo (25%).

(25%).

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(12%(12% alc., 3,900 alc., 3,900 cases)cases) color,color, then then fermented fermented half in half stainless in stainless steel steel and and (13.2% alc., 228 (13.2% alc., cases) 228 cases) half in half neutral in neutral oak. oak.

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(13%(13% alc., 150 alc., cases) 150 cases)

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Ancestry Cellars 2016 Grandma Lila’s Rosé, Columbia Valley $18 Northwest Wine Academy product Jason Morin brings in Sangiovese from Stillwater Creek Vineyard in Washington’s Frenchman Hills his dry rosé.

It offers a pleasing parade of fruit in the aromatics, leading with strawberry and vanilla. Inside, strawberry and pomegranate flavors are met by a bit of tannin that creates some roundness that yields to long and juicy finish. Ancestry Cellars’ home base is Woodinville, but the Morins just celebrated their first anniversary in Manson near Lake Chelan. (14% alc., 67 cases) Aubichon Cellars 2016 Vin Rosé de Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley $25 North Willamette Valley winemaker Jim Sanders and vintner Tom Mortimer continue to gather acclaim for their work with Pinot Noir under the LeCadeau and Joleté brands, and he uses fruit from Olenik Vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains for this rosé with Pinot Gris. Three days of skin contact and six months of aging in primarily neutral oak accounts for the light salmon color and slightly rounded texture. Citrusy aromas of tangerine and yellow grapefruit lead to dry and fascinating flavors of Rainier cherry and dried strawberry with an orange oil finish. (14.2% alc., 161 cases)\ Best Buy! Barnard Griffin 2016 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley $14 Rob Griffin, the dean of Washington winemakers, WINEPRESSNW. MM W I N E P R E S S N W.CO CO

has been crafting dry rosé in his Richland facility since 2002. His long string of success at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition proves that he’s one of the top producers of rosé in the country. He continues to grow his pink Sangiovese program, working with seven vineyards who grow the Italian grape specifically for rosé — making this his largest production to date. Classic aromas of strawberry, watermelon and orange zest are repeated on the palate with a crisp and lingering finish. The residual sugar of 0.3% is essentially imperceptible. (12.9% alc., 12,000 cases) Cairdeas Winery 2016 Rosé, Yakima Valley $24 Charlie Lybecker began making wine in Seattle before deciding to raise his family near Lake Chelan and dedicate his program to Rhône varieties, so it makes sense that he’s used Grenache (50%) and Syrah from Meek Vineyard to create one of the Northwest’s top rosés. Engaging aromas of peaches and cream with spearmint and Rainier cherry lead to bright and tingly flavors of pink strawberry and Montmorency cherry. Richness leads to a long finish that continues to react.

(13.4% alc., 80 cases) DeLille Cellars 2016 Rosé, Columbia Valley $32 Bandol-inspired Chris Upchurch has taken his rosé program more toward Grenache (46%) than Mourvèdre (42%) in recent years, and Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain shines with both those Rhône varieties. Mourvèdre also comes from StoneTree on the Wahluke Slope, while Boushey Vineyard contributes some Grenache and all of the Cinsault (12%) - a particularly juicy and lowalcohol variety. Mourvedre is credited with giving

the wine its salmon color, while the gorgeous nose of honeysuckle, cherry, pomegranate and quince paste leads to flavors of brambleberry, red currant and strawberry leaf. (14% alc., 675 cases) Best Buy! Desert Wind Winery 2016 Estate Dry Rosé, Wahluke Slope $15 Greg Fries, a seasoned winemaker in both Washington and Oregon, has the luxury of working with his father’s Desert Wind Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope for the family’s Sangiovese rosé.

Rain in October prompted them to hang this lot into November, and yet, it came together beautifully. It’s an ideal mix of strawberry, raspberry and white pepper in both the aromas and flavors, capped by cranberry skin tannins that make for a lingering and dry finish. It’s one of the top Northwest rosés at any price point. (13.2% alc., 160 cases) Duck Pond Cellars 2016 Hylo Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $20 The Fries family owns and farms vineyards in both the Willamette Valley and Umpqua Valley, and their new winemaker, Trevor Chlanda, displays a deft touch with rosé from Pommard clone Pinot Noir in the South Salem Hills. It offers beautiful spice and red fruit in the nose backed by a expressive flavors of plum and cherry juice that are finished by blood orange. (13.5% alc., 175 cases) Best Buy! Pike Road Wines 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé, Willamette Valley $12 This second label for Elk Cove Vineyard ranks mme 2 0 1 7• • Wei nPer e P sressN s oNrorthwest S uSmum e r r2 017 Win thwest

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among the most exciting new projects in the Willamette Valley, and the Campbell family is taking this brand seriously by giving it its own tasting room in downtown Carlton. This rosé comes from free-run juice collected from handpicked Pinot Noir grapes as they move through the processing line. Color comes from small lots of Pinot Noir, and the nose is of rose petal, strawberry and cedar. Its flavor profile is remarkably juicy with strawberry and cherry, making for stellar finish. (13.5% alc., 282 cases) Best Buy! Saviah Cellars 2016 The Jack Rosé, Columbia Valley $15 Walla Walla’s Richard Funk scored in this judging with two styles of rosé, including this Iberian Peninsula theme of Tempranillo (75%) and Syrah from the Milbrandt-owned Wahluke Slope Vineyard. Its English rose color brings a nose of rose petals, white strawberry, ripe peach and leather, followed by flavors of strawberry-rhubarb compote, black currant and earthiness, capped by pink grapefruit acidity and pith. (13.5% alc., 303 cases) Best Buy! Thurston Wolfe 2016 Lemberger Rosé, Yakima Valley $15 Wade Wolfe has a short drive to Crawford Vineyard for this delightful rosé that comes with a gorgeous strawberry/cherry color with strawberries and cream in the nose. This grape, a favorite of the legendary Walter Clore, is also known as Blaufränkisch and carries flavors of dark cherry, more strawberry and a bit of tannin, capped by a burst of Montmorency cherry in the finish. Enjoy with tuna salad or a ham sandwich. The Prosser, Wash., winery donates a $1 of each sale to the pet rescue responsible for Chance, their winery dog. (12.5 alc., 80 cases) Westport Winery Garden Resort 2016 Message In A Bottle, Yakima Valley

$26

Red Willow Vineyard, a historic site at the western edge of the Yakima Valley near the Mount Adams foothills, planted Italian varieties at the urging of famed Seattle restaurateur Peter Dow. These days, Grays Harbor winemaker Dana Roberts is making some of the Northwest’s most delicious rosé from Mike Sauer’s Grosso clone Sangiovese. Aromas of strawberry freezer jam and raspberry play out on the palate. There’s a drizzle of residual sugar (0.7%) on the entry, yet mouthwatering acidity akin to cranberry and blood orange makes for a zippy and delightful finish.

(13% alc., 157 cases) Dunham Cellars 2016 Cabernet Franc Rosé, Columbia Valley $18 One of the first wines Tyler Tennyson has produced for Dunham Cellars leads to outstanding results at this renowned Walla Walla winery.

Cabernet Franc routinely produces deliciously complex rosé, and this lot from Double Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills was harvested 40 40

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at 22 Brix, then went direct to press and was first fermented in neutral oak. Its pale pink wardrobe and alluring aromas of red fruit, facial powder and baking spice lead to a graceful and lighter-styled wine with long flavors of watermelon and rhubarb pie. (12.8% alc., 480 cases)

to mouthwatering aromas and delicious flavors of cherry, raspberry and cranberry with a pinch of fresh herbs. The drizzle of residual sugar (1.4%) is balanced nicely by a pop of pomegranate. Enjoy at the Maryhill Amphitheater with Steve Winwood.

(13.7% alc., 5,607 cases)

Best Buy! House Wine 2016 Rosé Columbia Valley $12 The brand that iconoclast Charles Smith made famous continues to please the masses, thanks to Seattle-based Precept Wine and director of winemaking Hal Landvoigt. He blends Rhône varieties Grenache (37%), Mourvèdre (29%) and Counoise (7%) with Lemberger (22%) and Sangiovese into a balanced and fun off-dry pink at 1.3% residual sugar. There’s a capture and release of strawberry, pomegranate and wild rose aromas. Marionberry and pomegranate fruit flavors come with a bit of tannin and ample acidity. Look for this rosé — and others in the House Wine lineup — in boxes and handy cans. (13.4% alc., 4,000 cases)

Red Lily Vineyards 2015 Lily Girl Rosé, Rogue Valley $16 One of the Northwest’s top Tempranillo producers leans on that Iberian Peninsula grape for its rosé, and Applegate Valley winemaker Rachael Martin rounds it out with Grenache (30%). A three-day soak accounts for the black cherry juice color, and a 32-day fermentation lays out the path for a fruity theme of plum, black currant and woodruff. It’s a red-wine lover’s rosé with its texture of plum skin tannins, making for a spicy, complex and fun drink that’s bone-dry. (13.5% alc., 400 cases)

Lumos Wine Co. 2016 Estate Chiquita Pinot Noir Rosé, Willamette Valley $25 Grower/winemaker Dai Crisp has been farming in the Eola-Amity Hills near Corvallis, Ore., for a quarter of a century, and his work with renowned Temperance Hill and his own Wren Vineyard site are ideal for Pinot Noir production. Classic aromas of cherry, rose petal, spice and dried herbs lead to bright flavors of strawberry and cranberry.

Touches of tannin and minerality add fascinating complexity for pairings with grilled salmon, a ham sandwich or roast turkey. (13.5% alc., 86 cases) Maryhill Winery 2016 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley $16 One of the Pacific Northwest’s largest productions of rosé ranks among the best, and it starts with the Italian grape Sangiovese in the Yakima Valley at Tudor Hills Vineyard. The pick was Oct. 18, and winemaker Richard Batchelor’s subtle touch creates a gorgeous light strawberry color that leads

Tertulia Cellars 2016 Tempranillo Estate Rosé, Walla Walla Valley $18 Ryan Raber works with Valdepeñas clone Tempranillo from estate sites on both sides of the state line — Rivière Galets near Seven Hills (Oregon) and at Whistling Hills (Washington) — farmed in the Walla Walla Valley by Ryan Driver. Its delicate yet winsome pink color is the fingerprint of a single hour spent on the skins prior to the press that captured aromas of currant, watermelon and spice. Generous flavors of strawberry, melon and Royal Anne cherry are framed by a pleasing structure and long finish. Look for it at their tasting rooms in Woodinville, Dundee, Ore., and in the middle of Whistling Hills. (11.5% alc., 180 cases)

Excellent Upsidedown Wine $18 2016 Rescue Rosé, Washington Second-generation vintner Seth Kitzke, a product of South Seattle College’s Northwest Wine Academy, took over his family’s winemaking program at Kitzke Cellars with this vintage, but this is his

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rosé TASTING RESULTS own label that he shares with wife Audrey. They worked with Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills for this Nebbiolo rosé picked at 22 Brix and pressed immediately without skin contact. Fanciful aromas of honeysuckle, peach and cantaloupe run into high-toned red fruit flavors of raspberry, pink strawberry and Montmorency cherry, making for an early and persistent pop of acidity. It’s nicely built and well-balanced.

Animal-loving wine lovers have another reason to support this — 20 percent of this label’s proceeds are used to support rescue shelters throughout the Northwest. (12.5% alc., 250 cases) Smasne Cellars 2016 Rosella Rosé, Yakima Valley $19 Robert Smasne can greet visitors to his new tasting room within Prosser’s Vintners Village at the former Olsen Estates facility using this consumerfriendly pink that blends Pinot Noir (72%) with Sangiovese. The nose of pineapple and peach preserves comes through on the palate with an apricot finish. There’s some wow factor here as Smasne balances a bit of sweetness with just the right amount of acidity. (13.4% alc., 300 cases) Bainbridge Vineyards 2015 Emerge Rosé, Puget Sound $20 One of the most eclectic rosés in the Pacific Northwest comes from one of Washington’s oldest plantings on Bainbridge Island. Betsey Wittick uses a series of estate cool-climate varieties, some of them obscure, Regent, Pinot Noir, Dunkelfelder, Madeleine Angevine and Gara Noir for a pink that offers tones of cherry, boysenberry, raspberry and baking spices that are bound by pleasing acidity and a bit of tannin for a satisfying finish.

(11.5% alc., 135 cases) Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2016 Canyon Vineyard Ranch Limited Edition The Expedition Cinsaut Rosé, Yakima Valley $20 This looks looks like it’s made from Pinot Gris, with lovely peach blossom, dried apricot, raspberry and strawberry in the nose. It’s a great sipping wine that’s full-bodied, with a spicy bit in the finish, a hint of pepper, and definitely has some wow to it.

(13.7% alc., 187 cases)

Crayelle Cellars 2016 Rosé, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $22 Cornell grad Craig Mitrakul continues his exploration of the Columbia Basin with this pink project from Ryan Flanagan’s Spanish Castle Vineyard, just downstream from Rock Island Dam. His Grenache-focused rosé, which carries just a splash of Syrah, is redolent of red currant, pomegranate and allspice with perfect acidity and a long, dry finish. (13% alc., 75 cases) Best Buy! Erath Winery 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Oregon $14 This iconic Willamette Valley brand in the heart of the Dundee Hills offers a remarkable value with its Pinot Noir rosé, thanks to longtime winemaker Gary Horner. Pear blossom, white peach and guava carry into a citrusy finish of yellow grapefruit and lemon/lime. (13% alc., 3,600 cases) Best Buy! Latah Creek Wine Cellars 2016 Familigia Vineyards Rosé of Malbec, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $13 This bottling charts a new course for Spokane winemakers Mike Conway and his daughter Natalie Barnes as they’ve separated from their Spokane Blush project to an off-dry rosé using Malbec.

Color extraction came within just three hours, and there’s a hint of sweetness in the nose of apricot jam, dried strawberry and lychee, followed by more enjoyment with flavors of raspberry jam, strawberry candy and blood orange in the finish.

At nearly 1% residual sugar, it pairs deliciously with winery matriarch Ellena Conway’s Lemon Pepper Chicken Tenders, a recipe in her latest cookbook. (12.5% alc., 496 cases) Best Buy! Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards 2016 Estate Cuvee Rosé, Umpqua Valley

$15

Southern Oregon star winemaker Stephen Reustle typically takes a precise path with his wines, but his pink program is wide-ranging with Riesling, Syrah, Grenache and Malbec. Its inviting color of

fruit punch leads to rather charming tones of blueberry, honeysuckle and rose petal with chai spice notes of nutmeg, cinnamon and pepper.

(13.1% alc., 238 cases) Abacela 2016 Estate Grenache Rosé, Umpqua Valley $18 One of the West Coast’s top performers in the rosé category remains consistent as the 2015 vintage finished No. 3 in Wine Press Northwest’s 2016 Platinum Judging. Its Sept. 18 harvest at less than 23 Brix offers that classic light pink wardrobe and continues its charms with aromas and flavors of strawberry soda with melon. A burst of dried cranberry in the finish adds a refreshing quality and sets the table for tapas. This is an early candidate for a 2017 Platinum, having already qualified after winning best of class as the Pacific Rim International Wine Competition in Southern California for the second straight year. (13.2% alc., 656 cases) Bunnell Family Cellar 2015 Wine O'Clock Rosé, Columbia Valley $18 The house rosé at the Bunnell family’s Wine o’Clock, the dining destination of the Vintners Village in Prosser, Wash., is complex and dry with the color of blood orange joined by aromas of dusty rose, dried cherry and toast. There’s a pleasing bit of roundness to the midpalate that’s surrounded by Montmorency cherry, a scrape of toast and dried apricot in the finish. Enjoy with PanRoasted Pork Tenderloin. (14.5% alc., 88 cases) David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2016 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $20 Justin Van Zanten of J. Daan Wine Cellars recently took over the winemaking at this historic property near Forest Grove, Ore., home to the first planting of Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley back in 1965. He captures a gorgeous light strawberry color that leads to aromas of dried strawberry and dusty pie cherry. There’s wonderful balance among the flavors of dried cherry and white strawberry, capped by an injection of blood orange. (14.3% alc., 310 cases)

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Kiona Vineyards and Winery 2016 Estate Sangiovese Rosé, Red Mountain $17 The Williams clan on Red Mountain continues to grow and produce some of the state’s top wines and across a wide range of styles, including this Sangiovese rosé that’s all off of Ranch at the End of the Road. Scott Williams and Tristan Butterfield collaborated for this off-dry version that barely hints at the 1.4% residual sugar among its aromas and flavors of blueberry and boysenberry, a balanced blend of berry skin tannin and berry juice. (11.8% alc., 300 cases) Martinez and Martinez Winery 2015 May Mae Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills $20 The only rosé entry made from Cabernet Sauvignon showed itself rather nicely, and those who know the story of the Martinez family and their old Cab vines understand why Andrew uses some of his father’s grapes for the pink wine named for Sergio’s granddaughter Mayli Mae. It’s done offdry (1.5% residual sugar), carries some typicity with a pinch of herbs and sits a bit heavy on the palate, offering nuances of boysenberry, plum, caramel and chocolate. And yet, there’s balance.

(11.8% alc., 587 cases) Vino la Monarcha 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley $22 Victor Palencia, a proud graduate of the College Cellars program at Walla Walla Community College, offers a beautiful expression of Pinot Noir grown in this cooler region of the Columbia Basin.

Those enamored with his house style will not be disappointed as its aromas and flavors of Cherries Jubilee, blood orange acidity and strawberry preserve finish, which fits with the slightly off-dry angle of 0.8% residual sugar. It seems on par with the 2015 Platinum winner, and his screwcapped, frosted bottle puts a fun bow on an already-great package. (13% alc., 500 cases) Mt. Hood Winery 2016 Estate Pinot Noir Rosé, Columbia Gorge $20 Hood River native Rich Cushman ranks among the best in Oregon when it comes to Pinot Noir, so his rosé work with Bickford family fruit should be no surprise. Enticing aromas of strawberry yogurt, peaches and cream with tangerine transition into off-dry flavors of strawberry and sweet cherry as its raspberry acidity tackles the 2.3% residual sugar. (11.3% alc., 286 cases) Best Buy! O•S Winery 2016 Sonas Devon's Rosé, Yakima Valley $14 SoDo winemaker Bart Fawbush of Bartholomew headed up this saignée Cabernet Franc rosé project with Sheridan Vineyard for second-generation vintner Peggy Sullivan. Bright cherry and rhubarb compote aromas led to pleasing roundness of 42

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tropical fruit on the midpalate with a generous finish of Montmorency cherry. The Sullivans have been offering Cab Franc rosé for a decade, and this style is ideal with chicken salad, ham, shellfish and salmon. (14% alc., 125 cases) Torii Mor Winery 2016 Rosé, Eola-Amity Hills $18 The cooling coastal breeze through the Van Duzer Corridor pushed harvest of this slow-ripening Pinot Noir clone 828 to Oct. 1, and the 20 hours on the skins created a pretty pink color and delicate aromas of facial powder, cherry and cinnamon. Cherry and raspberry flavors combine to build bright, brisk and long finish. (13.3% alc., 223 cases) Territorial Vineyards 2016 Rosé of Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley

$18

Vineyard owner Alan Mitchell provided much of the fruit for winemaker Ray Walsh, and their downtown Eugene project in a former coffee warehouse helped set the standard for Northwest urban wineries. An overnight soak of Pinot Gris from Equinox Vineyard makes for aromas of white peach, rose petal, tangerine and apple blossom that are matched on the fruity yet dry palate. A fun combination of cream and apricot skin provides a pleasing finish. (12.7% alc., 150 cases)

Best Buy! Waterbrook Winery 2016 Sangiovese Rosé, Columbia Valley

$12

Walla Walla winemaker John Freeman and Waterbrook provided a template for Northwest rosé made with Sangiovese more than a decade ago, and he works with four sites, including Precept’s estate Canyon Vineyard Ranch, for this perennial favorite. The winning ingredients hint at strawberry, honeysuckle and crawberry, backed by a bite of plum for a slightly off-dry finish. (13.3% alc., 4,142 cases) Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Whole Cluster Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $18 Gravity-pressing, a 24-hour soak and partial surlie aging promotes youthful color, a pinch of pie spice and a steady stream of juicy reddish fruit tones such as sweet cherries and watermelon with Ruby Red grapefruit acidity. A tropical note and a flake of minerality hangs in the background. Suggested pairings include Lime and Coconut Grilled Shrimp or Nicoise Salad. (13.4% alc., 7,000 cases) Wit Cellars 2016 Rosé, Columbia Valley $18 Yakima Valley winemaker Flint Nelson and his Wit Cellar project - Wine Press Northwest’s

Find the right pair

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rosé TASTING RESULTS Washington Winery to Watch - go direct to press with this rosé from Syrah, a different path than his 2015 debut vintage. Its strawberry/watermelon color brings cherry blossom, white peach and apricot flavors that are realized on the dry palate, which is nicely balanced. (13% alc, 125 cases) Best Buy! Airfield Estates Winery 2016 Sangiovese Rosé, Yakima Valley $15 The Miller family’s vineyard spans nearly 900 acres and represents 27 varieties at the base of the Rattlesnake Hills north of Prosser, Wash., and the Sangiovese for rosé hails from their Blackrock Canyon Vineyard on the eastern end of their holdings. Complex aromas and flavors of dried strawberry and sweet blueberry are joined by a flourish of boysenberry in the farewell, awarding it excellent balance behind the nearly 1% residual sugar. (13.5% alc, 1,258 cases) Best Buy! Balancing Act 2016 Rosé, Washington $10 Tamarack Cellars at the Walla Walla Regional Airport complex recently created this second label, and the winemaking team of Ron Coleman and Danny Gordon uses it for one of the most approachable and affordable rosés in the Pacific Northwest. They combined Cabernet Franc from Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and Olsen Brothers in the Yakima Valley then went direct to press for a seriously scintillating drink of cantaloupe and citrus with a pale color that’s akin to Provence. (12.3% alc., 400 cases)

Finn Hill Winery 2016 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Blondie Rosé of Sangiovese, Rattlesnake Hills $20 Woodinville Warehouse District winemaker Rob Entrekin, who received Wine Press Northwest’s 2016 Washington Winery to Watch award, shifted from Cabernet Sauvignon on the Wahluke Slope to Sangiovese from Yakima Valley grower Joe Hattrup for this latest version of Finn HIll rosé.

It’s filled with sweet strawberry, red currant and pomegranate with dusty minerality and a juicy finish. (12.8% alc., 56 cases) Kiona Vineyards and Winery 2016 Estate Lemberger Rosé, Red Mountain $17 This fruit red grape surrounds Kiona’s tasting gallery to the west and to the north, and the Williams family could be considered the state’s primary defenders of Lemberger. It makes fun, fruity and full-flavored wines, and in this case, it’s pale pink in color with effusive red berry aromatics. Tree-ripened Rainier cherry flavors, raspberry and red currant provide the acid profile to balance the residual sugar (1.2%). This was Kiona’s underthe-table wine at Taste Washington, and the reaction should have been predictable. (12 alc., 120 cases)

Hamilton Cellars 2013 Rosé of Malbec, Columbia Valley $18 The Hamiltons pride themselves on the work that Charlie Hoppes performs for them with Malbec, and they sourced this lot from Gamache Vineyards. The six months of aging in neutral barrels

by Wine Boss explains the light peach color and touch of wood swirling behind the aromas of peach nectar, kumquat and orange oil. There’s a roundness and fascination to the palate, where flavors of Orange Julius and butterscotch might make this a California Chardonnay lover’s rosé.

(14.3% alc., 167 cases) Lopez Island Vineyards 2016 Rosé, Yakima Valley $18 Brent Charnley’s historic work with aromatic white wines focuses on his Lopez Island estate, but much of his red program centers on Crawford Vineyard near Prosser, Wash. This delicious rosé is derived from Syrah and Merlot, bringing a brilliant cherry juice color with blackberry and spice aromas, chased by cherry, sweet blackberry and hint of plum in the mouth. Its combination of acidity and tannin comes across as fruity, but not sweet.

(12% alc., 185 cases)

Denison Cellars 2016 Kiff Vineyard Deuxième Version Rosé of Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton $22 Joe Kiff ’s relatively cool vineyard just northwest of McMinnville, Ore., has been an integral component for Tom and Denise Wilson’s Denison Cellars, and the Kiff blocks of Pommard and 777 were grown for rosé. A cold soak for four days creates the strawberry Kool-Aid color that leads to a deep nose of cranberry-pomegranate cocktail with more to come on the palate, which is mouthfilling with cherry skins and a crunch of strawberry seed. Enjoy with grilled chicken or dryrubbed ribs. (14.1% alc., 101 cases) Duck Pond Cellars 2016 Rosé of Pinot Gris, Oregon $18 The Fries family produces two styles of rosé, and newly hired winemaker Trevor Chlanda worked with Duck Pond’s young Umpqua Valley site — Coles Valley Vineyard — for this Pinot Gris pink styled after Provence. Six hours of soaking and some interplay with Gamay (4%) and Pinot Noir (2%) accounts for the pink strawberry color that opens the way to fun aromas of cherry Pixy Stix.

It’s a serious rosé on the palate with bone-dry flavors Rainier cherry and white strawberry. (14.1% alc., 610 cases)

With over 300 Goldd Medalls in regional, National and International Winee Comppetiitionss, 11 tiime Winne Press Northwestt plattinum winner we invite you to join and share Tsillan Celllars Estate Lake Chelan AVA award winning wine.

Chelan Tasting Room 12pm-8pm Open Daily 12pm 8pm 3875 US Hwy 97A Chelan, WA 98816

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Woodinvillle Tastiing Room

Hours unday Monday, Monday Thursday: 12pm-7pm 12pm 7pm Sunday, Friday & Saturday: 12pm-8pm ww ww.tssil illa la anc ncel e la el lars rs.c rs .ccom m 509 09.6 .6 682 82-9463

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Martin-Scott Winery 2015 Rosé of Sangiovese, $18 Columbia Valley This East Wenatchee, Wash., winery that overlooks the Columbia River pulled Sangiovese from the Jones family about an hour’s drive downriver.

An 18-hour soak extracts the color and aromatics of dried strawberry and cherry with nutmeg and plum skin. Its creamy mouth feel, combined with flavors of black cherry, cinnamon powder and off-dry approach, impart some hedonism, turning this into a great drink for the patio on a hot day.

(14.6 alc., 125 cases) Best Buy! O•S Winery 2015 Sonas Devon's Rosé, Yakima Valley $14 This longtime Seattle urban winery in the Georgetown neighborhood took an off-dry approach with its Cabernet Franc work from Sheridan Vineyard.

The saignee method draws out a theme of sweet cherry, blackberry and spice that includes a bit of minerality in its backbone and rewarding injection of acidity in the finish. (13.8% alc., 254 cases) Canoe Ridge Vineyard 2016 The Expedition Rosé, Yakima Valley $16 Napa transplant Bill Murray has settled into life

and winemaking in the Pacific Northwest, and his penchant for Rhône varieties shows up in his latest rosé for The Expedition tier. In this case, it’s a wide-ranging blend of Grenache (34%), Mourvèdre (26%) and Counoise (6%), plus the white grape Roussanne (33%). Scents of strawberry, cranberry and raspberry don’t disappoint. The use of Roussanne seems to create some roundness on the entry that’s filled with strawberry-rhubarb compote and Craisins for a pleasing finish. (13.6% alc., 2,250 cases)

Coeur de Terre Vineyard 2016 Rustique Rosé, McMinnville $21 McMinnville grower/winemaker Scott Neal went direct to press with what ended up being a blend of Pinot Noir (62%) from Four Winds Vineyard with his own Syrah (38%). It’s a lively and cheery rosé with a blood orange color that highlights boysenberry, red cherry and President plum flavors within a bit of spritzy acidity. Suggested fare includes grilled shrimp, summer salads, Eggplant Parmesan and seared tuna. (13.1% alc., 300 cases)

Child’s Play WInes by Tendril 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Best Buy! Eye of the Needle Winery 2016 12th Blend Rosé, Columbia Valley $15 The official rosé of the 12s? Bob Bullock can’t go that far, but this focused effort with Cabernet Franc from Stillwater Creek Vineyard will win him a few fans. There’s cherry, rose petal and spice with a pinch of earthiness, and the touch of sweetness is managed nicely by raspberry acidity. Look for this latest vintage to be released in July, but it probably will be gone before the Seahawks’ Sept. 17 home game vs. San Francisco. And proceeds from each bottle sold are donated to Northwest Harvest, paying for two meals. (13.5% alc., 42 cases)

$28

Lofty scores and plenty of praise flowed from Tony Rynders’ decade of winemaking at Domaine Serene, and now he’s taken over at Panther Creek while consulting for Jackson Family Wines at cult producer Zena Crown. He doesn’t seem to be cutting any corners for his own projects, including this rosé from stellar sites — Saffron Fields and Elk Cove Vineyard’s Clay Court. “These grapes would have made great red Pinot Noir,” he says, picking them at 24 Brix and soaking for three days.

“Essentially, we set out to make red Pinot Noir and cut the process short.” That explains the ripe strawberry/cherry color, but it drinks akin to a Provence as flavors of white strawberry and dried cranberry stretch beyond the finish for a rosé that’s far from boring. (14.1 alc., 100 cases)

Good food. Good friends. Always!

Forgeron Cellars 2016 Rosé of Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley $20 Among the reasons Marie-Eve Gilla works with Sangiovese for her rosé is that the Italian grape can withstand the heat and offer the all-important acidity, even during this recent string of record-hot vintages. She stays close to home by contracting with Seven Hills Vineyard and picking the grapes at less than 23 Brix. Whole-cluster press and four months in neutral barrels accounts for tropical aromas of pineapple, papaya, honeysuckle and cherry blossom with some buttery notes. What awaits are penetrating flavors of Bing cherry and white peach, capped by Bosc pear skin and yellow grapefruit. Suggested pairings include oysters, salmon, ham, Eggs Benedict and a fresh fruit salad.

(13.8% alc., 192 cases)

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Visconti’s Leavenworth WA 44

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Best Buy! Firesteed Cellars 2016 Pinot Noir - Rosé, Willamette Valley $15 This year, Bryan Croft celebrates his 20th anniversary of making wine at Firesteed for Howard Rossbach, who founded Firesteed in 1993. Croft also oversees the vineyards, and that precise control means he’s produced this in the manner he’d hope for, a bigger style that recruits interest with the fruit punch color and offers a theme of strawberry-rhubarb, delicious leafiness, plum skin tannins and a juicy finish. (13.9% alc., 630 cases)

(509) 548-1213

Puffin Wines 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Oregon $21 Cannon Beach wine merchant Steven Sinkler works with Sean Driggers of Pudding River Wine Cellars in Salem, Ore., on the Puffin brand. ToW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

rosé FEATURE gether, they’ve created an expressive wine with aromas of apricot, peaches and cream and dried papaya, which are followed by brisk and long flavors of Rainier cherry, unsulfured dried papaya and white strawberry. (13.5% alc., 100 cases) Best Buy! Ryan Patrick Wines 2016 Rosé Wine, Columbia Valley $15 Washington State University product Jeremy Santo used the saignée method with this Rhône-inspired rosé blend of Syrah (74%), Cinsault (12%), Grenache (8%) and Mourvèdre. There’s a sense of elegance and finesse to its delicious features of strawberry, apricot, lime peel and wet stone, a bone-dry profile that’s driven by an underlying pulse of raspberry juice. (12% alc., 1,500 cases) Spindrift Cellars 2016 Rosé, Willamette Valley $16 New Jersey native Matthew Compton began his path in the research vines for Oregon State University prior to launching his own winery in 2003.

His passion for Burgundy shows up with last year’s vintage as he’s produced two rosés — one from Pinot Gris and this with Pinot Noir from Pommard vines off Thompson Vineyard, part of a 700-acre century farm. It’s showcased in a gorgeous shade of pink and offers a generous drink of dark strawberry, blood orange and Montmorency cherry. (14% alc., 115 cases) Wilridge Winery 2016 Conley Vineyard Malbec Rosé, Columbia Valley $20 Seattle attorney Paul Beveridge offers two rosés, but this pink from Malbec comes from the Naches Heights American Viticultural Area, a high-elevation region in Yakima County that’s also home to his wine-country themed tasting room. The barrister’s tribute to Cahors is pale in color with citrus notes of lemon/lime and kumquat to balance the midpalate of apricot glaceé and cream. (13.4% alc., 100 cases) Willamette Valley Vineyards 2016 Estate Rosé, Willamette Valley $24 Empire State native Joe Ibrahim worked at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and Gallo prior to making wine near the Oregon state Capitol. With this more-focused rosé project, he pulls lots from a pair of estate vineyards — including the 40-year-old Tualatin Estate — and it spent 48 hours on the skins and then six weeks fermenting in neutral French oak. Its color blend of strawberry/tangerine brings aromas of cherry, cranberry and Uncola, followed by brisk flavors of strawberry-rhubarb compote. That time in barrel builds the midpalate mouthfeel which gives way to brisk cranberry cocktail flavors. Suggested pairings range from ahi tuna and chicken curry to salmon with dill pesto sauce. (13.5% alc., 1,700 cases)

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Williamson Vineyards 2016 Blossom Sangiovese Rosé, Snake $16 River Valley The Williamson family and longtime winemaker Greg Koenig continue to take many of their wines from off-dry to dry, and their latest Blossom rosé exemplifies that. The salmon pink color offers aromas and flavors of strawberry and clementine with a bit of cranberry skin that brings some tannin into play that bodes well for broasted chicken and grilled meats. (14% alc., 176 cases) Carabella Vineyard 2015 Pinot Noir Rosé, Chehalem Mountains $18 Parrett Mountain grower/winemaker Mike Hallock takes a fascinating approach to his rosé program made with estate fruit, starting with saignée Pinot Noir that then goes through an extended cold soak on Pinot Gris pomace. The results are remarkable as black cherry and strawberry notes gain complexity with a rich mouth feel that carries into a bit of tannin and long lovely acid-driven finish that calls for a plate of Olympia Provisions.

(13.5% alc., 180 cases) Best Buy! Cloudlift Cellars 2015 Lucy Rosé of Cabernet Franc, Yakima Valley $14 Wise Brothers Vineyard in Washington’s Rattlesnake Hills is the source of SoDo wood craftsman/ winemaker Tom Stangeland’s Provencal-style rosé to serve with Pacific salmon. The offering from the Lucile Street winery starts with an orange hue that brings hints of light cherry, dried strawberry and minerality. (12.7% alc., 141 cases) Dazzle Cellars 2016 Julia's Dazzle Rosé, Horse Heaven Hills $20 Long Shadows proprietor Allen Shoup, who named this for his granddaughter, continues to grow the audience for Pinot Gris rosé, doubling production since the 2013 vintage while shaving the residual sugar in half. There’s just enough pigment for its light salmon color, and it presents aromas and flavors of Royal Anne cherry, white peach and clementine acidity. Expect understated elegance rather than flash as the residual sugar of 0.5% is veiled. (14.1% alc., 9,776 cases) Girardet Vineyards & Winery 2016 Estate La Roche, Umpqua Valley $20 Second-generation grower/winemaker Marc Girardet works with an eclectic variety of grapes that his folk established near Roseburg, Ore. And yet, he opted to use Cabernet Sauvignon from his Shale Rock Vineyard for the rosé program. La Roche is a French reference to a rocky crag formation, but this pink is rather smooth with loganberry and Van cherry flavors that pick up some lively spritz and spice along with a backbone of crisp acidity. (11.7% alc., 100 cases)

Holloran Vineyard Wines 2016 Stafford Hill Rosé, Eola-Amity Hill $16 Mark LaGasse has moved into his second decade of making wine for retired tech executive Bill Holloran and wife Eve. Rather than pulling Pinot Noir from their Dundee vineyard near Erath, they work with their La Chenaie Vineyard in the EolaAmity Hills for this second label. Whole-cluster pressing and fermenting to dry yield tropical aromas of pina colada, tangerine and orange zest, followed by spine-tingling flavors of kumquat, quince and blood orange, a combination that makes for a long and mouthwatering finish for oysters. (13.5% alc.; 150 cases) Best Buy! Primarius 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé, Oregon $14 Sarah Cabot, a product of South Seattle College’s wine program, worked in the cellars of Belle Pente, WillaKenzie Estates and Omero prior to heading up the Willamette Valley program for Seattlebased Precept Wine. Rosé is a recent addition to the brands that she produces wine under, including Battle Ground, Windy Bay and Kirkland Signature for Costco. Aromas of blood orange, peach sherbet and blueberry include a rub of rose petal. They are realized on the palate, which is just a touch off-dry (0.8% residual sugar) yet skillfully balanced by acidity akin to Ruby Red grapefruit pith. (14% alc.; 2,700 cases) Williamson Vineyards 2015 Blossom Rosé of Sangiovese, Snake River Valley $16 This well-integrated, multi-generation operation in Idaho’s Sunnyslope Wine District serves as a breadbasket for the Treasure Valley wine industry, and Sangiovese is among the varieties they work with for rosé. This vintage reflects a transition of their pink program whereas the 2016 was finished dry, this carries 1% residual sugar, yet the finish of pie cherry tartness provides balance to the dark strawberry and Bing cherry flavor profile. (14% alc., 108 cases) Vizcaya Winery 2016 Sonrojo Tempranillo, Snake River Valley $20 Wine Press Northwest’s 2016 Idaho Winery to Watch has established two estate vineyards, and Syringa winemaker Mike Crowley works with their Windy Ridge planting in Meridian for their complex rosé from Tempranillo that incorporates the Spanish term for “blush.” The theme of blackberry and black cherry offers a sense of richness to the mouthfeel, a hint of sweetness and fleck of minerality. Enjoy with fried chicken or tacos. (12.6% alc., 45 cases) Best Buy! Whidbey Island Winery 2016 Rosato, Columbia Valley $15 Salish Sea vintner Greg Osenbach continues to show a deft touch with Italian varieties he imports from beyond the Cascades with this blend of S u m m e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Sangiovese, Primitivo and Dolcetto that also incorporates Lemberger. He offers a pale pink and spicy rosé with strawberry, cherry and white pepper notes, backed by crisp acidity that screams for calamari. (14.3% alc., 200 cases) Gilbert Cellars 2016 Rosé, Wahluke Slope $20 Justin Neufeld pays tribute to Bandol with this Mourvèdre-led rosé for the Gilbert family, made from their 24K Vineyard near Mattawa, Wash. It’s among the Northwest’s most vibrant expressions, featuring aromas and flavors of pink strawberry, Rainier cherry and lemon zest, making it an ideal foil for a plate of Yakima-based Tieton Farm and Creamery cheeses. (12.1% alc.; 1,364 cases)

Gård Vintners 2016 Lawrence Vineyards Grand Klasse Reserve Rosé, Columbia Valley $22 Aryn Morell in Walla Walla works closely with the Lawrence family, which celebrated the 10th anniversary of their winery brand with this harvest of Tablas Creek clone Grenache. Expect raspberry, cinnamon-dusted strawberry, cherry notes and a refreshing, bone-dry profile. The bowling pinshaped bottle, available at the Royal Slope farming family’s tasting rooms in Woodinville and Ellensburg, also makes for a fun memento. (12.6% alc.; 475 cases)

Silvara Vineyard 2016 Rosé, Yakima Valley $22 Wenatchee Valley vintner Gary Seidler worked with Syrah from Zirkle Fruit Co., vineyards Zillah Ranch and McNary to produce a pink quaffer that brings hints of cotton candy and plums, backed by orange zest to provide a clean finish. (12% alc.; 112 cases)

Succession Wines 2016 Rosé, Columbia Valley $22 Antoine Creek Vineyard near the Columbia River town of Pateros, Wash., supplies the Pinot Noir for Brock Lindsay’s quaffable rosé. It’s flirtatious with its strawberry soda appearance after 18 hours on the skins, and looks aren’t necessarily deceiving.

Aromas and flavors of cherry Life Saver and strawberry ice cream are expertly balanced by acidity, providing for a rather elegant finish. (13.8% alc.; 110 cases)

Viscon Cellars 2015 Porch Rosé of Syrah, Rattlesnake Hills $18 West Seattle vintner Ben Viscon marks his second decade of winemaking with this work from picturesque Konnowac Vineyard, an older site groomed

by Chuck and Claudia Fiola. Aromas and flavors of plum, strawberry and tobacco leaf are tightened up nicely by cranberry sauce that makes for a deliciously juicy finish. (13.8% alc.; 275 cases)

Two Mountain Winery 2016 Rosé, Rattlesnake Hills $18 The Rawn brothers farm and vinify this equal blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that captures the herbal qualities of both varieties.

While the color of a Provence-style, it’s rather off-dry with its theme of Brach’s Strawberry Bon Bon, yet touches of pink peppercorn, dried cranberry and starfruit give it levity and balance.

(13.2% alc.; 575 cases)

Chehalem Wines 2016 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $22 It’s uncommon for this Newberg, Ore., icon to offer a rosé, yet second-generation winemaker Wynne Peterson-Nedry shows a deft hand with this classically pink rosé. The record-early harvest allowed her to bring it in off award-winning estate site Corral Creek on Sept. 12, and the lot went direct to press before five months in neutral French oak barrels. Strawberry, blood orange and Rainier cherry tones include a dusting of white pepper and nip of tannin to go with the rewarding acidity. Enjoy with quiche, asparagus or Olympia Provisions’ Saucisson Sec. (14% alc.; 121 cases)

Best Buy! Walnut City WineWorks 2016 Rosé, Willamette Valley $15 Michael Lundeen works with 30-year-old Pinot Noir from La Cantera Vineyard near Newberg, Ore., in the Chehalem Mountains and neutral French oak barrels for this floral and cherry rosé.

The direct-to-press method of this late August harvest broadcasts a vibrant and refreshingly low-alcohol finish of citrus oil that also offers a touch of crushed rock. La Cantera - Spanish for quarry - is the estate planting for the Bernard Machado brand in McMinnville. (11.9% alc.; 155 cases)

Ghost Hill Cellars 2015 Bayliss-Bower Vineyard The Spirit of Pinot Noir Rosé, Yamhill-Carlton $20 Acclaimed winemaker Eric Hamacher took over the cellar for the Bayliss-Bower clan in time for the 2015 harvest, and this rosé reflects the saignée method as it relates to multiple projects — bleeding off for their estate Pinot Noir Blanc program as well as a number of their Pinot Noir bottlings.

The bright cherry color is a marker for the hints of fruit in the aromatics and the palate, joined by ripe plum, fig, earthiness and a wealth of acidity.

(13.2% alc.; 130 cases)

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For complete results go to: winepressnw.com

R O S É BY T HE N UM B E R S Here are some interesting statistics about this rosé judging: ❧ Number of entries: 122 ❧ Wines rated “Outstanding!” — 30 (25%) ❧ Wines rated “Outstanding!” that earned the equivalent of a unanimous double gold — 8 ❧ Wines rated “Excellent” — 52 (43%) ❧ Wines rated “Recommended — 23 (13%) ❧ Average price — $18 ❧ Total cases represented — 107,645 ❧ Wines sealed with cork — 71 ❧ Wines sealed with screwcap — 50 ❧ Wines sealed with crowncap — 1 ❧ Outstanding wines with alternative closure — 13 ❧ Average alcohol — 13.21% ❧ Average residual sugar — 0.36% ❧ Average residual sugar for wines rated “Outstanding!” — 0.27% ❧ Average price for wines rated “Outstanding!” — $19 ❧ American Viticultural Areas represented — 21 ❧ Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley (5), Chehalem Mountains (1), Columbia Gorge (2), Columbia Valley (35), Eola-Amity Hills (2), Horse Heaven Hills (6), Lake Chelan (1), McMinnville (1), Oregon (6), Puget Sound (3), Rattlesnake Hills (3), Red Mountain (2), Rogue Valley (2), Snake River Valley (6), Umpqua Valley (4), Wahluke Slope (2), Walla Walla Valley (4), Washington (5), Willamette Valley (16), Yakima Valley (15), Yamhill-Carlton (2). ❧ Grape varieties represented as primary or leading component: Barbera (2), Cabernet Franc (11), Cinsault (2), Counoise (1), Cabernet Sauvignon (4), Dolcetto (1), Grenache (14), Lemberger (2), Malbec (3), Maréchal Foch (1), Merlot (2), Mourvèdre (5), Nebbiolo (1), Pinot Gris (7), Pinot Noir (29), Regent (1), Riesling (2), Sangiovese (19), Syrah (11), Tempranillo (4).

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FEATURE

wine village

Columbia Gardens Wine Village poised for fall opening

BY K E N R O B E R T S O N

A

s construction crews at the Port of Kennewick’s Columbia Gardens Wine Village hustle to make up for days lost to an exceptionally harsh winter, the project’s second phase is about to begin next door.

While snow and cold idled construction, port officials worked with their Phase 2 project partners, the City of Kennewick and Benton County, to nail down $2.1 million to pay for paving, curbs, concrete work and utilities and then launch that work this summer, aiming to blend it seamlessly with completion of the first three buildings started last fall.

The infrastructure money also will be used to extend connections to and begin similar work on the port’s nearby Willows property, the site of Columbia Basin College’s planned culinary program.

“We’ll have the loop road, parking lot and space for food trucks,” said Tim Arntzen, port executive director. “It’s all going to materialize” as construction proceeds. He credits cooperation with the city and the county for expediting the development at both sites.

The city has played a key role in creating and permitting an effluent treatment system and in building an updated “streetscape” of sidewalks, boulevards and bus stops along Columbia Drive, the former highway that marks the project’s south boundary.

Phase 2 is funded by Benton County’s share of the state Rural County Capital Fund, created by the Legislature to pay for economic development projects using sales tax rebate money.

“The port did a great job with its application,” said Adam Fyall, Benton County’s sustainable development manager. “The wine industry has a great deal of appeal, and this project takes it to a whole other level. I think it’s really going to take off.”

Arntzen said a small restaurant business has expressed interest in a piece of Phase 2 property owned by the port and other wineries 48

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A worker helps guide a metal roof truss being lifted into place by a crane recently at a building for the new Columbia Gardens Wine and Artisan Village on east Columbia Drive in Kennewick.

have talked with port officials about locating tasting rooms there.

As April and May passed, two winery buildings — one to house winemaker Victor Palencia’s La Monarcha label and the other for Bart Fawbush’s Bartholomew Winery — began to rise from foundations set last fall. A third building will serve as controlled-climate barrel storage for the two wineries and house public restrooms, which will allow the food trucks to operate on site.

In 2018, Arntzen also foresees a shade pavilion to support special events and to help attract those who come to walk the hiking and biking paths, visit the wineries and frequent food trucks assembled for special events and weekends.

Talks with federal and state wildlife officials and the Army Corps of Engineers have yielded approval to thin, trim or remove non-native vegetation around the pond the wineries will overlook. Duffy’s Pond is a freshwater arm of the Columbia River cut off

Bob Brawdy, Tri-City Herald

by an Army Corps dike.

“That will make it a critical piece of the project and provide some watchable wildlife,” Arntzen said. Among the birds and small mammals that frequent the pond area are bald eagles, great blue heron, several species of waterfowl and river otters and muskrats.

Those natural attractions, combined with high traffic volumes along Columbia Drive, helped attract Palencia and Fawbush, who will move his South Seattle winery’s winemaking operations here but keep his tasting room in the old Rainier Brewery complex to serve his West Side fans.

Because of the winter work delays, he expects to crush his grapes and make the 2017 vintage in Seattle, then shift to Kennewick. He hopes to have a tasting counter open in the new building in October after harvest and hold holiday season events to kick off his operation in Columbia Gardens.

The move to Kennewick will be a family operation. Bart’s wife Chona is arranging a W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

job transfer to the Tri-Cities, their son plans to enroll in one of the high schools and they’ll find a home in the Tri-Cities after their Seattle-area home is sold.

Once the Kennewick winery opens, Fawbush said his focus will be to grow the Bartholomew label on this side of the state and potentially start a new label, “more in a little bit lower price bracket.”

His existing customer base is excited about the change and some already are looking forward to visiting the Kennewick winery. At his existing tasting room, a veteran employee will take over.

Although Bartholomew will be a new label for most Tri-Citians, the wine grapes come from some familiar sources, including the Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain. His wines include big reds, dry whites and a tasty rosé made from Carménère.

Like Fawbush, Palencia has made arrangements to handle the winemaking for his La Monarcha label at existing facilities for 2017, then focus on his new facility and get his tasting room up and operating in the fall.

“I’m excited to host food trucks, food and culture nights and other events all tailored around the wineries,” he said. “When you bring food and wine together, there’s synergy.”

He said he and Fawbush bring together “a broad spectrum of varietals and prices” ranging from Bordeaux grape varieties to the Rhone region.

And Palencia has a unique vision for one attraction at his winery — a chance to observe the life cycle of the Monarch butterfly, which appears on his La Monarcha label. He plans to open a butterfly garden, raise the migratory butterflies there and release them for their flight south to Michoacan province in Mexico, his family’s ancestral home.

He sees it as an allegory for the migrant families who settled in the Mid-Columbia and helped build the region’s agriculture and wine industry. And as a way to emphasize that his wines carry a focus of sustainability and love for the land. retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has written for Wine Press Northwest since its founding in 1998 and been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976. He also has worked as a consultant for the Port of Kennewick since 2014.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS June

August

3 Leavenworth Spring Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash.

Regional wineries gather to pour more than 60 wines throughout 20 downtown locations. Go to cascadefarmlands.com.

4 Sunnyslope Food and Wine Trail, Caldwell, Idaho.

Wine industry members celebrate the upcoming harvest, with the signature event at the Train Depot Plaza. Go to sunnyslopewinetrail.org.

3 Summer Nights Idaho Wine Run, Kuna. This annual event offers everything from a full marathon to a kids fun run with 15 Snake River Valley wineries pouring alongside live music after the race. Go to idahowinerun.net.

5 Canines Uncorked, Gaston, Ore. Members of the North Willamette Vintners Association, led by Elk Cove Vineyards, invite wine lovers and their dogs to free tastings and dog activities. Go to nwvintners.org.

10 Wine and Music Festival, Richland, Wash. The Auction of Washington Wines partners with Washington State University Tri-Cities for this third annual event featuring more than 20 wineries and regional musicians. Go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org.

10 Savor Idaho North, Coeur d’Alene. The Idaho Wine Commission stages its second annual lake cruise pairing Idaho’s top wines with regional cuisine. Go to savoridaho.org.

11 Savor Idaho, Boise. The Idaho Wine Commission stages its ninth annual event pairing of Idaho’s top wines with regional cuisine at the Idaho Botanical Garden. Go to savoridaho.org.

19 Idaho Wine Run, Caldwell. This annual event spans from a full marathon to a kids fun run with Snake River Valley wineries pouring after the race with live music. Go to idahowinerun.net.

15-17 Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine, Walla Walla, Wash. Join more than 60 Walla Walla Valley winemakers as well as Australia, Chile and Napa in exploring Syrah. Go to celebratewallawalla.squarespace.com.

12 Kitsap Wine Festival, Bremerton, Wash. Harborside Fountain Park is the stage for this ninth annual fundraiser for Harrison Medical Center Foundation. Go to kitsapwinefestival.com.

23-25 Taste of Tacoma. Point Defiance Park serves as the venue of the 32nd annual celebration of food and the Tacoma News Tribune wine bar in the rose garden. Go to tasteoftacoma.com.

24 Cycle Lake Chelan, Chelan, Wash. The seventh year of this ride includes a lake crossing and takes in some of the region’s top wineries. Go to cyclechelan.com.

July 9 Fueled by Fine Wine, Dayton, Ore. Members of the Dundee Hills American Viticultural Area help present the eighth annual wine country half-marathon and after-race party. Go to fueledbyfinewine.com.

14-16 Kirkland Uncorked, Kirkland, Wash. City officials stage the event in Kirkland Marina Park featuring wineries with food-and-wine pairing workshops. Go to kirklanduncorked.com.

15 Horse Heaven Hills Wine Growers Trail Drive, Alderdale, Wash. The 12th annual tour visits seven wineries and ends with a barbecue at Crow Butte Park on the Columbia River. Go to horseheavenhillswinegrowers.org.

15-16 Northwest Wine Fest, Sandpoint, Idaho. Schweitzer Mountain features more than 20 regional wineries, live music and barbecue. Go to schweitzer.com.

20-22 Sun Valley Wine Auction, Sun Valley, Idaho. The Sun Valley Center for the Arts stages its 36th annual charity wine auction. Go to sunvalleycenter.org.

23 Vintage Spokane, Spokane, Wash. The Lilac City’s largest wine event features more than 50 regional wineries and chefs at the Davenport Grand Hotel ballroom. Go to vintagespokane.com.

27-28 Wine Tasting at the Zoo, Seattle. Regional wineries gather at Woodland Park Zoo’s North Meadow on consecutive nights to raise conservation funds. Go to zoo.org.

28-30 International Pinot Noir Celebration, McMinnville, Ore. Global Pinotphiles return to Linfield College for its 31st year. Go to ipnc.org.

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17-19 Auction of Washington Wines, Woodinville, Wash. The nation’s fourth-largest wine charity auction returns to Chateau Ste. Michelle for its 30th year. Go to auctionofwashingtonwines.org.

21-27 Oregon Wine Experience, Jacksonville, Ore. This annual celebration has grown to 50 wineries in support of the Children’s Miracle Network. Go to worldofwinefestival.com.

25-26 The Showcase of Golf, Wine, Spirits, Cheese and Brew, Sunriver, Ore. A round at the Crosswater Course is followed by food, cheese and more a 100 wines as the Pacific Northwest’s original year-round resort raises funds for Newberry Habitat for Humanity. Go to theshowcaseatsunriver.com.

25-27 Vancouver Wine & Jazz Festival, Vancouver, Wash. This 20th annual event at Esther Short Park features regional wineries, area restaurants and several top-name recording artists. Go to vancouverwinejazz.com.

26 Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival, Wenatchee, Wash. Top wines from the seventh annual wine competition staged by Foothills magazine will receive their awards at Town Toyota Center. Go to wenatcheewineandfood.com.

25-27 Bounty of Yamhill County, Yamhill, Ore. Some of the Willamette Valley’s top winemakers and chefs collaborate on a variety of events during this three-day fundraiser for the Yamhill Enrichment Society. Go to bountyofyamhillcounty.com.

September 3 Wine in the Pines, Cle Elum, Wash. Swiftwater Cellars celebrates Northwest wines with celebrity chefs and live music for the 10th year. Go to swiftwatercellars.com.

8 Mercer Island Uncorked, Mercer Island, Wash. Ten regional wineries will pour alongside artists at the I-90 Outdoor Sculpture Gallery. Go to mercerislandchamber.com.

9 Carlton Crush Harvest Festival, Carlton, Ore. This family-style event staged by Ken Wright Cellars features local wines, live music and fun in Upper Park. Go to carltoncrush.com.

9 Leavenworth Summer Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash. More than 20 regional wineries gather to pour throughout 20 downtown locations. Go to cascadefarmlands.com.

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S u m m e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

wine auction

Auction of Washington Wines climbs to No. 4 in U.S. rankings

BY ERIC DEGERMAN

S

EATTLE – This summer, the Auction of Washington Wines celebrates its 30th anniversary, and it’s coming off a record year of fundraising that positions it as the fourth-largest charity wine auction in the United States.

Wine Spectator magazine, the wine world’s leading publication, charts charity wine auctions in the country and its original top-10 list did not include all of the figures submitted by the Auction of Washington Wines.

The revision and additional recognition delights Sherri Swingle, who enters her final summer as executive director for the Auction of Washington Wines.

“This is huge for us — huge,” Swingle told Great Northwest Wine. “I believe this is the highest we’ve been on Wine Spectator’s top 10 list, and the last time we were on it at all was in 2007.”

The updated list published online shows the Washington wine industry’s fundraiser for Seattle’s Children’s Hospital and Washington State University’s viticulture program as having generated $1.9 million during its live auctions, just ahead of the Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction and a touch behind No. 3 — Destin Charity Wine Auction in Florida. (It seems unlikely that that Auction of Washington Wine will ever challenge the Naples Winter Wine Festival or Auction Napa Valley in terms of live bids.)

Wine Spectator reported that fundraising was down last year at a number of charity wine auctions across the country, but the Auction of Washington Wines raised a total of $3.04 million in 2016, a record for the event that vintner Allen Shoup developed in 1988 while he was CEO at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.

“We were up $500,000 from the year before,” Swingle said. “It just speaks volumes about the Washington wine industry and the excitement surrounding it.”

Oregon’s Classic Wines Auction raised $1,514,565 for children and family charities 54

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S u m m e r 2 017

in Portland and ranks No. 8 on the Wine Spectator list.

The Auction of Washington Wines has raised more than $37 million in its previous 29 years, and organizers are looking set another record through its marquee Aug. 17-19 weekend, highlighted by the fun Winemaker Picnic and Barrel Auction and capped by the signature Gala.

Tickets are on sale for all events associated with the Auction of Washington Wines, including the Col Solare Vineyard Dinner on June 9 and the revamped Wine and Music Festival near the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Wine Science Center on the Richland campus of Washington State University. This year's lineup includes Arny Bailey and Friends, a rock band that features Peter Rivera, who achieved fame as lead vocalist of Motown group Rare Earth.

HONOREES INCLUDE SPARKMAN, MERKLE This year’s Auction of Washington Wines honorees feature Sparkman Cellars as the Honorary Vintner, Tom Merkle as Honorary Grower, and Thomas Matthews, executive editor of Wine Spectator, as the 2017 Honorary Chair.

“For 30 years, the Auction of Washington Wines has been very fortunate to have such impressive leadership to recognize – and this year is no different,” said Sam Baker of Oles Morrison Rinker & Baker.

The role of Honorary Chair was developed for leaders in the field of wine who have demonstrated an appreciation for Washington’s industry. The Honorary Vintner and Honorary Grower positions are peer-nominated.

“This year, we honor two individuals in Washington who have greatly influenced our industry, one who represents the new generation and another who is upholding the family’s legacy,” said Norm McKibben of Pepper Bridge Winery and co-chair of this year’s Auction of Washington Wines. “Tom Matthews has made significant contributions

that have elevated the state as a wine-growing region and advocated our wines across the globe.”

In 2004, trained biologists Christian Sparkman and wife Kelly launched Sparkman Cellars in Woodinville as a way to create a business that would incorporate their two daughters. The proud University of Te nnessee grad carries a tagline at Sparkman Cellars that reads, “Dad/Founder/Vintner.”

“It all synced up with our family’s vision: working with the finest raw ingredients this planet has to offer, crafting from it something real and living, and sharing it with folks who are literally thirsty for it,” he said.

The Sparkman Cellars winemaking team, quarterbacked by Linn Scott, has amassed accolades from Wine Spectator, including the No. 21 wine in the world (2013 Holler Cabernet Sauvignon) and from Wine & Spirits (Top 100 Wineries in the World.) Sparkman recently served six years on the board of the Washington State Wine Commission, highlighted by a three-year term as chairman that expired in 2016 and included supporting the decision to invest in a corporate tent for the 2015 U.S. Open Golf Championship at Chambers Bay. Merkle, a second-generation grape grower, began working in orchards near Outlook, Wash. After a few years of working for Boeing, he returned to orchards and vineyards in the Columbia Valley. His expertise prompted Zirkle Fruit Co., to make him director of vineyard operations.

Along the way, he’s established Wautoma Springs Vineyard in 1999, a stellar site near famed Cold Creek Vineyard. A decade later, he partnered with Columbia Valley winemaker Jessica Munnell to launch their own boutique brand called Wautoma Wines.

Merkle continues to oversee a series of plantings that factor into some of Washington’s most important wines. And he serves on board of directors for the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center.

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MATCH MAKER S

LARKS:

SOUTHERN OREGON WINES IN SPOTLIGHT IN ASHLAND STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN // PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

A

SHLAND, Ore. — Shakespeare has been driving tourism to this corner of Oregon for eight decades, and Larks Home Kitchen + Cuisine in Ashland continues to burnish its reputation for creating a remarkable stage for Southern Oregon vintners.

Avid fisherman Francesco Console, executive chef of Larks Home Kitchen + Cuisine in Ashland, Ore., applies the finishing touch to his salmon dish that he bastes in lemon brown butter to create a delicious caramelized skin.

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This past winter, the Oregon Wine Board presented Larks with the Oregon Wine A-List Wine Program of the Year Award. It also serves as a reward to Ava DeRosier, longtime food and beverage director for the Neuman Hotel Group and its classy restaurant inside the historic Ashland Springs Hotel. Her relationship with the property spans 12 years, and her dedication to Southern Oregon’s emerging and evolving wine industry now has Larks in the heady territory occupied by The Joel Palmer House and Portland’s legendary Heathman Hotel, the first two winners of the Oregon Wine Board’s top honor.

“It feels like the beginning of something,” DeRosier said. “I’ve never done this for recognition. It’s more for the true love for the industry here and wanting to be as supportive as possible for the local wineries, particularly the smaller ones who might not have a platform to be seen. There was a lot of energy and attention leading us in this direction, but the A-List Wine Program of the Year Award recognition was exciting for sure.”

It’s appropriate that someone named Ava be applauded for showcasing the Southern Oregon AVA. While 80 percent of her list is Oregon, half of those wines come from the American Viticultural Area surrounding Ashland.

There’s more to the program than building an inventory. Managers at both Larks locations — Ashland and Medford W INEPRESSNW.COM

Larks Home Kitchen + Cuisine on the ground floor of the historic Ashland Springs Hotel offers summertime sidewalk dining along Main Street.

— attained their Level 1 sommelier credential, and DeRosier has been integrated into the Oregon Wine Experience, a month-long food and wine celebration in nearby Jacksonville that raised $720,000 for the Children’s Miracle Network last year.

“We’ve received a lot of congratulations and gratitude from the local wine community, distributorships and many locals, but that’s part of having the really amazing relationships,” DeRosier said.

It was DeRosier who accepted the award at the Oregon Wine Symposium in Portland, but she made a point to share the applause with both Larks-Ashland wine buyer Selisha Early and Jennifer Williamson, the Larks-Medford manager and wine buyer. Both restaurants were recognized as having won the award.

“We really try to focus on the Rogue Valley,” Early said. “I’m always recommending ‘Southern Oregon’ in almost any category before talking about anything else.”

It’s easy to get behind Southern Oregon wines inspired by the Rhône Valley and Iberian Peninsula, whether it be standalone varieties or blends, and there WINEPRESSNW. CO M

are a few brands they are drawn to, such as Cowhorn, Jaxon, Pebblestone, and Plaisance Ranch. Dairyman-turned-winemaker Joe Ginet continues to impress at his converted ranch with Syrah, Carménère and Mondeuse, an obscure grape from the Savoie region of southeastern France that he painstakingly propagated with help from French relatives.

“I love so many of the local wines, but that Mondeuse is my favorite red wine from Southern Oregon right now,” DeRosier says without hesitation. “It’s so elegant. So interesting.”

Early adds, “People are intrigued by it. I put it on ice for a few moments, treating it similar to Beaujolais, and guests love it.”

Natural light streams in through the windows in the restaurant on the first floor of this Main Street hotel built during the Roaring ‘20s. The Oregon Shakespeare Festival took root a decade later, but the hotel — despite attaining a spot on the National Register of Historic Places in 1978 — fell into disrepair and was shuttered in 1997.

A year later, California property developer Doug Neuman and his wife, Becky, purchased the hotel for $1.8 million, S u mme r 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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MATCH MAKER S

Folin Cellars $32 2013 Folin Vineyards Tempranillo, Rogue Valley — 225 cases, 14.1% alcohol Rob Folin and Folin Cellars are proud proponents of the “We are So Oregon” movement, and it’s a concept he and his farming family began to embrace immediately in the 1990s after selling their Southern California orchards and planting vineyards in Southern Oregon in 2001.

They’ve rightly focused much of their attention on Rhône varieties, but they also shine with the Spanish red Tempranillo. In fact, they’ve won a gold medal or better with their estate Tempranillo the past two years at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Rob Folin – pronounced FOAL-lynn – operates two tasting rooms, the winery and vineyard with his family and his folks, Scott and Loraine. They oversee 25 acres of vines, a production of 1,500 cases, and an estate tasting room about 10 miles north of Medford and as well as their north Willamette Valley tasting room in downtown Carlton.

Folin’s connection with the Willamette Valley and the wine industry began at Chemeketa Community College. By chance, he found a job posting for a winery that was transitioning from Carlton to the Dundee Hills. He got that job and spent seven harvests at Domaine Serene, now one of the top producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the New World.

In 2007, he moved home, shifting his focus to his parents’ vineyard and winery. Tempranillo seems a natural fit for Southern Oregon, and the early ripening aspect of the Iberian Peninsula red grape came through in the 2013 vintage, allowing Folin to harvest from Sept.

12-16, just ahead of the torrential rains that plagued the vintage.

This latest Temp spent 22 months in 30 percent new French oak, leading to aromas of toast, cocoa and chocolate-covered cherries. Its tannin structure is rather refined for a young Tempranillo, allowing for flavors of blueberry, sage and lavender with a pinch of earthiness.

The Folin family’s tasting room at their Sam’s Valley estate is a filled with granite and features a 20-foot ceiling that leads to a gravity-flow production facility and a library cellar for club members. Their wines continue to stand out not only in the Rogue Valley but in Carlton.

“Everyone tastes all the Pinots they can fit into the day, and by the end of the day they are just finished with Pinots,” Folin said. “They come to our place and try Tempranillos and Syrahs at half the price. People will say, ‘Can I trade this case of whatever I bought for two cases of yours?’ “ Folin Cellars, 9200 Ramsey Road, Gold Hill, OR 97525, folincellars.com, (541) 855-2018

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invested a reported $10 million in the renovation and reopened it in 2000. It now stands as a beautiful nine-story icon not unlike the Marcus Whitman Hotel in Walla Walla, Wash., or the Davenport in downtown Spokane.

There is some fascinating history on both sides of their family. Doug’s father was a Holocaust survivor who made his way to Ashland. Becky’s grandfather Sheldon Coleman owned the famous outdoor company. Her father co-founded Breckenridge Ski Resort, sat on the board for Louisiana-Pacific, and spent his final decade living in Ashland.

Both DeRosier and executive chef Francesco Console go back more than a decade with the Neumans, whose empire in the Rogue Valley spans three restaurants, four hotels and two spas.

And while Larks — a tribute to Oregon’s state bird, the western meadowlark — is billed as offering Pacific Northwest- influenced cuisine, Console draws from childhood memories of summers spent in Calabria cooking with items such as olives and sparrows under his grandparents’ wings.

“It was fun,” Console said. “My dad was born in Southern Italy, moved here when he was in his 20s and worked in restaurants and travel agencies his whole life.

We were always going to restaurants — always cooking, always doing something around food.”

His destiny upon graduating from high school in Medford led him to Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Portland rather than the University of Oregon.

“I thought, ‘What do I really love?’ ” he said. “I wanted to play with some fire and cook. I’ve been doing it ever since and fell in love with it.”

Console clears his head on the seat of a motorcycle, whether it be a Ducati 696 Monster or Triumph Tiger Dual Sport, but fishing is his peaceful passion when he’s not with his young family.

“I can’t handle cities,” he said. “I love to visit, but I couldn’t handle living in it.

Here, I can hop in the car and in 20 minutes be in the river and be fishing. There’s the constant riot of a day in the kitchen, so sitting by the river is one of my favorite things to do.”

Space is at a premium working in a kitchen within a historic building, and the dining room has space for just 25 tables. Summer affords DeRosier’s team five more tables on the sidewalk, and virtually every diner comes with tickets to an 8 p.m. play.

“So we are serving all the guests almost exactly at the same time,” DeRosier said.

“It’s impressive to see Franco’s fire rail in the kitchen.”

Console adds, “It gets pretty harried back there. We’re doing 150-160 covers between 5:30 and 6:30, and then at 7:45 p.m., you can hear a pin drop in the kitchen.

Everybody is done getting their checks turned in and headed out to the theater.”

The Oregon Shakespeare Festival, which runs February into November, reported 397,304 patrons in 2016, and that tourism is responsible for the amazing per capita of talented chefs in the region, which includes Maggie Trujillo at Larks in Medford.

“I see how the wine industry has grown, and now people changing their stay,” DeRosier. “I think the evolution is necessary in terms of what’s happening here with the culinary and the wine industry and the hospitality. The Shakespeare festival can’t be the only thing we hang our hat on.”

Console’s love for fishing helps explain his special touch with the white portion of his Match Maker assignment — working with the Pebblestone Cellars 2015 Ellis Vineyards Block 8 Viognier from the Rogue Valley. He paired it with his Wild Salmon, Lemon Brown Butter, Parsnip-Fennel Purée, Garlic Spinach and ParsleyWalnut Pistou. The citrus and fennel profile of the Viognier provides cleansing and refreshing acidity to complement the dish’s browned butter, the nuttiness and garlicky wilted spinach. Console’s repeated basting of the salmon creates a crunchy skin that carries a flavor reminiscent of caramel corn. For those who seek a Viognier that W INEPRESSNW.COM

Local Rabbit Cacciatore, Fresh Pappardelle and Manchego-Black Pepper Sour Cream Serves 4

Rabbit Cacciatore 1 whole rabbit 2 pounds slab bacon (cubed) 2 quarts chicken stock 2 cans Italian diced tomatoes 2 cups red wine 5 tablespoons tomato paste 1 medium white onion (julienned) 2 roasted red bell peppers (julienned) 2 cloves garlic (minced) 1 bulb fennel (chopped) 1 quart wild mushrooms 1 teaspoon oregano 1 tablespoon parsley 2 tablespoons thyme Salt and pepper to taste 1. Season rabbit with salt and pepper. Sear rabbit and bacon with olive oil in large skillet.

2. In separate stock pot, caramelize onions, garlic, fennel, red peppers and wild mushrooms.

6. Put each dough portion through a pasta roller six times, beginning with the largest setting and decreasing to the smallest setting. The pasta should be a thin sheet. Fold each sheet in half.

7. Allow dough to air dry for about 20 minutes. Hand cut pasta approximately 1/2-inch-thick and four to six inches in length.

Manchego-Black Pepper Sour Cream 1 cup sour cream 1/2 cup finely grated Manchego 1 tablespoon black pepper 1. Mix all ingredients until well-integrated

Final touches and plating: 1. Heat rabbit cacciatore and fresh pappardelle in sauté pan, integrating all ingredients.

2. Fold in 2 tablespoons of butter. Remove from pan and place in large bowl.

3. Top dish with Manchego-black pepper sour cream, freshly shaved Manchego and parsley.

4. Enjoy!

3. Add tomato paste and sauté until color deepens to rust.

4. Deglaze with red wine and reduce by 1/4.

5. Add chicken stock, tomatoes, herbs, whole rabbit and bacon.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

6. Simmer all ingredients on low for 3 hours. Remove meat from rabbit and add back to sauce after discarding bones.

Fresh Pappardelle 16 ounces flour 12 egg yokes 2 whole eggs 2 teaspoons olive oil 2 tablespoons milk 4 teaspoons salt 1. Create well with flour and salt in food processor.

2. Add eggs, yolks, olive oil and milk to food processor. Mix on low for one to two minutes or until dough begins to come together.

3. Remove dough from food processor and hand knead for 25 minutes.

4. Place dough in Saran wrap and refrigerate overnight or for a minimum of 3 hours.

5. Remove dough from refrigerator and separate into four parts.

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Wild Salmon, Lemon Brown Butter, Parsnip-Fennel Purée, Garlic Spinach and Parsley-Walnut Pistou Serves 4

Parsley-Walnut Pistou 1 cup parsley (chopped) 1 clove garlic (minced) 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon Parmesan (grated) 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice and zest 1/4 cup walnuts (toasted, chopped) 1. Use a food processor or mortar and pestle to grind all ingredients together until well integrated.

Parsnip-Fennel Purée 2 pounds parsnips (peeled, large dice) 3 fennel bulbs (quartered) 1 quart cream I bay leaf 1/2 cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

Sautéed Spinach 1 1/2 pounds spinach 3 cloves garlic (minced) 1. Coat pan with olive oil.

2. Lightly sautée spinach with minced garlic on low heat.

3. Salt and pepper to taste

Final touches and plating 1. Place parsnip-fennel purée and sautéed spinach on plate. Top with fillet.

2. Spoon brown butter over fish.

3. Top salmon with Parsley-Walnut Pistou.

4. Enjoy!

1. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Coat parsnips and fennel with olive oil and salt and pepper. Roast on sheet pan for 8-10 minutes or until browned.

2. Remove from oven. Place fennel and parsnips in saucepan and cover with cream. Reserve some cream for final stage.

3. Add bay leaf. Poach fennel and parsnips in cream on low heat until fork-tender. Remove from heat and discard bay leaf.

4. Blend all ingredients in food processor until smooth. Add reserved cream to achieve desired consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Lemon Brown Butter wild salmon 4 eight-ounce wild salmon fillets 3 tablespoons butter 1/2 lemon 1. Season fillets with salt and pepper. Place fish in oiled medium-high heat pan, skin down.

2. Sear until crispy and flip to achieve same result on other side. Flip back over to skin down.

3. Add 3 tablespoons butter to pan. Turn down heat and baste fish with butter continually until cooked through. Flip fish a few times while basting.

4. Once fish is cooked, add juice from half a lemon and salt and pepper to the pan. Remove from heat.

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W INEPRESSNW.COM

MATCH MAKER S

Certified sommelier Ava DeRosier, food and beverage director for the Neuman Hotel Group, received the Oregon Wine Board’s 2017 A-List Wine Program of the Year Award for her work at Larks Home Kitchen + Cuisine.

drinks akin to a balanced Chardonnay or even a dry Riesling, look no further.

And Console tapped into his Italian heritage for one of the most brilliant dishes and pairings in the 19-year history of the Match Maker series by serving Local Rabbit Cacciatore, Fresh Pappardelle and Manchego-Black Pepper Sour Cream with the Folin Cellars 2013 Estate Tempranillo. Rob Folin’s Spanish-style red offers aromas of toasted oak, cocoa and cherry, backed by approachable tannins, earthy tones and a complex finish of blueberry, sage and lavender. The black pepper and Manchego cheese are natural playmates with this rather suave Tempranillo.

“I braise the rabbit with pork belly, which I thought would work really well with the Tempranillo because it will cut through that fat, and nice herb tones in the wine come through the mushrooms,” Console said. “Rabbit is so underrated, but I love it. People are afraid to cook it because it is so lean.

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If you don’t do it right, it gets dry and can turn on you really quickly.”

It marked just the third time rabbit has been featured as a Match Maker dish, but the first time since 2001.

Console’s recipe goes through several iterations during the year, depending upon ingredients.

“That dish flies,” Console smiled.

“When tomatoes come into season, that takes it to another level. Fresh morels, as well.”

Larks Home Kitchen + Cuisine, Ashland Springs Hotel, 212 E. Main St, Ashland, OR, 97520, larksrestaurant.com, (541) 488-5558.

Larks Home Kitchen + Cuisine, The Inn at the Commons, 200 N. Riverside Ave., Medford, OR, 97501, innatthecommons.com/larks-restaurant, (541) 779-5811.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-owner of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning news and information company. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine. com.

​ ebblestone Cellars P $21 2015 Ellis Vineyards Block 8 Viognier, Rogue Valley — 300 cases, 14.3% alcohol Southern Oregon winemaker Bryan Wilson and the Ellis family continue to prove that Viognier deserves a seat at the table when it comes to the debate about this Rhône Valley white grape. And the Pebblestone Cellars Ellis Vineyard Block 8 Viognier remains a veritable staple on the wine list at Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine in Ashland.

For the past two years, a Viognier from Pebblestone Cellars was selected as the top white wine of the Oregon Wine Competition, a judging panel dominated by Masters of Wine. In 2015, the Medford winery used the 2013 vintage to earn a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle — the world’s largest judging of American wine. Last year, Pebblestone earned a double gold medal at the Sonoma competition.

Wilson’s résumé of aromatic whites at Pebblestone showcases the site selection and farming done

by Richard and Pat Ellis, who purchased their decade-old Ashland vineyard in 2003. They soon planted 2 acres of Geneva and clone 01 Viognier at Ellis Vineyard, which stands at an elevation of 1,600 feet. It ranks among the most finicky grapes to work with, so Wilson’s track record with it is another testament to his years at Chateau Souverain and Benzinger in Sonoma, Napa Valley icon Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars and the past decade in Southern Oregon.

“Viognier with its thick skins and pulpy nature is prone to being phenolic, especially as it gets increasing sun exposure and becomes more golden-yellow than green,” Wilson explained.

“And that’s also where the flavor lies, in that yellow-gold fruit.”

So the trick is to avoid that phenolic bitterness of the skins, present tropical tones and offer enough acidity to keep Viognier from being fat and flabby on the palate.

“The two hallmarks of Viognier, great texture and aromatics, are of course the goals,” Wilson said.

“The quandary when whole-cluster pressing is to be delicate to avoid the phenolics but doing that misses the unctuous flavor that comes from pressing the clusters more. So we press harder and do a press cut that is treated separately and then reassembled with the free run. We’re also not afraid to make moderate tartaric acid additions that keep the wine somewhat trim and in balance.”

Then he selects yeast that will get him to his sweet spot of 0.3 percent residual sugar, essentially dry and deliciously refreshing. Viognier can be a bear to work with, but Wilson has making it down to an artful science.

“My stylistic goal for many varietals is not too big, not too small, but just right — Goldilocks wine!”

Wilson said.

Pebblestone Cellars, 1642 Camp Baker Road, Medford, OR 97501, pebblestonecellars.com, (541) 512-1704.​

S u mme r 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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AWARDS

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winery of the year

Wi ne Pr ess Nor t hw e s t • S u m m e r 2 0 1 7

W INEPRESSNW.COM

COYOTECANYON MARTINEZ&MARTINEZ MCKINLEYSPRINGSWINERY GINKGOFORESTWINERY

GAMACHE VINTNERS

MILBRANDT VINEYARDS

2DOR WINES SMASNE CELLARS

THEBUNNELLFAMILY& WINEO’CLOCK

THURSTONWOLFE

AIRFIELD ESTATES

(509) 786-7686 www.coyotecanyonwinery.com

(509) 786-7800 www.gamachevintners.com

(509) 786-2392 www.martinezwine.com

(509) 786-0004 www.mckinleysprings.com

(509) 786-0060

www.2dorwines.com

(509) 786-1509 www.ginkgowinery.com

(509) 786-3313

(509) 786-0060

www.thurstonwolfe.com

www.smasnecellars.com

(509) 788-0030 www.milbrandtvineyards.com

(509) 786-7401 www.airfieldwines.com

Where a hub of wineries in the heart of Washington Wine Country's Yakima Valley has emerged as an exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrian-friendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in 6 individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemaker's Loft.

Summer Events!

Thurston Wolfe -Art from Jan Nilsson of West Richland will be on display through December. Craft bracelets from Ed Maske. In April Carol VonStubbe will have new art along with Cathleen Williams’ handcrafted jewelry.

The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock - Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for à la carte wining and dining.

The Winemakers Loft presents Lounging at the Loft - Summer series featuring live music, food and wine. Saturdays from 6-9pm. Check out the local artists and participating wineries listed below. 21+ event, $10 cover.

County Line Tasting Room, home of Smasne Cellars and 2dor Wines Enjoy handcrafted lunch items daily from 11am-3pm by Executive Chef Kyle Hunter. Dinner by reservation.

MAY

JULY 7 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Tasting 11 am - 5 pm 8 - Martinez & Martinez - Lounging at the Loft featuring Fino 21 - County Line Tasting Room - Live Music on the Patio 6:30 pm - 9 pm 22 - McKinley Springs - Lounging at the Loft featuring Caleb & Walter 22 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Patio party with live music by Dakota Brown & food by Garcia’s

29 - Gingko Forest Winery - Lounging at the Loft

AUGUST 4 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Tasting 11 am - 5 pm 5 - Martinez & Martinez - Lounging at the Loft featuring Latin Fusion 19 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Lounging at the Loft featuring American Honey 26 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Patio party with music by Matt Brown, food by Stick

27 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Club Pick up party. Food by Stick and Stone, music

and Stone

by Amber Sweeney

27 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Malbec Vertical tasting with food pairings

SEPTEMBER

JUNE

1 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Tasting 11 am - 5 pm 1 - McKinley Springs - Fire pit Friday 5 pm - 8 pm 3 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Patio Party with music by Jamie Nasario and food by

2 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Tasting 11 am - 5 pm 2 - McKinley Springs - Firepit Friday 5 pm - 8 pm 2-4 - McKinley Springs Vineyard - CeeDubs Dutch Oven Cooking Clinic 3 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Gardening with Buggirl’s Garden 8 - Bunnell Family Cellar - Summer release 10 - Bottles, Brews Barbecues - Vintners Village. Live music, competition BBQ,

guest chef Breanna Beike

craft beverages

23 - County Line Tasting Room - Live Music on the Patio 6:30 pm - 9 pm 24 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Patio party with music by Budapest West & food by Big

Stick BBQ

24 - Gingko Forest Winery - Lounging at the Loft

Please call or check individual web sites for more summer events.

COLUMN

grapes of roth

BY COKE ROTH

Smell the Pinot Gris

T

hanks in advance for tagging along on this journey into the inaccurate and unbelievable.

I always attempt to broaden the outer boundaries of the gray area between truth and fiction. Exposing you to fact would, after all, be a grand departure from any counterpart political opinion. With all other Wine Press columnists writing with the utmost of veracity, you’ll find balanced, contrasting wine news with my 900 words of highly-compensated, misdirected point of view. By comparison, I make weather forecasters look clairvoyant.

By the time this column gets taken to your bathroom, winter will have been hipchecked into antiquity. You will have ventured into a colorful out-of-doors and will need a glass in hand filled with a wine that parallels the season. It will be time for the delicious and welcomed springtime foods; where citrusy, lighter fare salutes the season.

It is that jubilant time of year when asparagus, avocados and lemons are on sale; where the quench of white wine is rejoiced and when fish can’t wait to bite on a hook.

It’s a perfect time to smell the Pinot Gris with a salmon salad.

Honestly, I never thought I would write a column on Pinot Gris. Years ago, I was a fan largely because it was my lovely wife’s go-to wine. Later, we thought the wine became boring; possessing, like my writing, few if any redeeming qualities. Like many, we got all tied up in questing for boldness and structure; abandoning the desire for subtlety and grace.

I not only strayed from Pinot Gris, I abstained. I drank a gazillion varieties of red, sparkling and other white wines, however, no Pinot Gris. I confess….I even drank beer and whisky. If you ever saw me, the last thing that would enter your mind would be that I forgot about food, and I didn’t, I just forgot about lighter food and a balancing beverage. Now, having seen the error of my ways, I’m Baaaaaaack! The

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W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • S u m m e r 2 017

Captain has turned off the “No Swallow” sign for Pinot Gris.

It seems there were a lot of grape cultivar genetic mutations during the late Medieval period, one of which occurred to Pinot Noir somewhere between the middle of France and southern Germany. Plagiarizing spot-on science and rural legend, the black Pinot Noir apparently lightened up halfway to its ultimate, less-colored mutation, Pinot Blanc, and the grayish-blue, sometimes mahogany colored Pinot Gris, or gray Pinot, was morphed.

Most often color from Pinot Gris skin infusion precipitates out, however, occasionally extended skin contact can result in Pinot Gris having a copper hue. Normally, however, its color ranges from pale to fullon straw yellow and sweetness may be bone-dry to sticky sweet. I raise an eyebrow when I see a Pinot Gris Rosé. My guess is that a maverick cellar-master put the Pinot Gris in an unwashed red wine tank and, voila!, a friggin’ miracle…pink Pinot Gris!

With any wine, where and how it is grown and harvested, and how it is made, greatly determines how it smells and tastes (DUH). Despite anomalies and variances, however, I find that there are three basic drier styles of Pinot Gris, whether made in the Northwest or around the globe.

The lighter Italian version and style of Pinot Gris, sometimes called Pinot Grigio, is typically citrusy, zesty, fresh, and ready for that salad referred to above. These are generally cold fermented, low in alcohol, high in fruit, early-to-market wines that taste best within a couple years of the vintage date. Meyer lemon, pear and melon notes dance across your tongue like a ballerina.

The spicier, richer Alsatian style of Pinot Gris has more body. Lucky me, on a recent excursion to the northeast corner of France and the bordering southwest corner of Germany, I re-experienced this sturdier version. The creamy, nutty nuances of aging

in neutral barrels greatly contributed to the flavors of Alsatian Pinot Gris and “Grauburgunder” from the Baden region of Germany, along with other contributing factors of variance. Denser fruit flavors of mango and apricot harmonized with lemon zest.

As I drool on my keyboard, I suggest you drink Alsatian-styled Pinot Gris with what I had for dinner in Riquewihr, France; Frog Legs Au Poivre, Hazelnut crusted Scallops, Quail with Foie Gras, and then ripened cheese. Next visit, I’ll get past the children’s menu. The Alsatian Pinot Gris accompanying that feast possessed elegant power and sophistication, like a figure skater.

The final version is the kind that pleases the Chardonnay drinker, and pardon me, I am not a fan. Exposing Pinot Gris to new French or American oak, to me, is attempting to transform our ballerina or figure skater into a mixed marshall arts fighter. If I want Chardonnay, I know where to get it, and I don’t want pencil shavings on my salad or Quail. For me, perceptible oak in Pinot Gris has the same mouthwatering appeal as Ketchup on a peanut butter sandwich. But that’s just me, not you.

For me, Pinot Gris should have those melony, citrusy, tropical fruit flavors, moderate to low alcohol, with lip-smacking acidity and just a hint of balancing sugar.

With that kind of chemistry, Pinot Gris/ Grigio transitions well from an after-work beverage to a friendly dinner companion.

Some wines are made to rumble. Not Pinot Gris….it’s a lover, not a fighter. Engage your spring and summer senses with heavy friends, light food and delicious Pinot Gris…always drinking in moderation, frequently. is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. Learn more about him at cokerothlaw.com.

COKE ROTH

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— Your Place to Play — mme r 2 0 1 7 Res • W i n e 888.677.7771 P re s s N orthwest 71 I-5, Exit 99 • Canyonville, OR • Info 800.548.8461 •S uHotel sevenfeathers.com

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HEART of

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YAKIMA

200 wineries within an hour’s drive!

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RED MOUNTAIN/ BENTON CITY

TRI-CITIES

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Stay in the Tri-Cities and experience ALL of Washington Wine Country!

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Savor your experience at more than 200 wineries within an hour’s drive, enjoy a variety of hotels, restaurants, golf courses and revel in the brilliant colors of our world. Visit Tri-Cities and add an exclamation point to your life’s biography!

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From the Manhattan Project National Historical Park to the LIGO Hanford Observatory the Tri-Cities region has been the epicenter for significant scientific discoveries and research in the last century!

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More than 200 wineries within an hour’s drive!

Great hotels, restaurants, golf, water recreation and so much more!

Home to the state-of-the-art Ste. Michelle Wine Estates WSU Wine Science Center and the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center!

Fly Alaska Airlines from the Tri-Cities and check your first case of wine free! TasteAndTote.com Wi ne Pr ess Nor t hw e s t • S u m m e r 2 0 1 7 W INEPRESSNW.COM www.VisitTRI-CITIES.com • 1-800-254-5824