Wine Press Northwest Fall 2017

WALLA WALLA'S SE AT TLE CONNECTIONS | ITALIAN REDS TASTING RESULTS

FA L L 2017

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72 HOURS IN THE COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE U.S. $5

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WINE PRESS NORTHWEST I N T H I S I S S UE

6 Touring Columbia River Gorge p12

Wine Knows

The next Hood River?

8 Swirl, Sniff & Sip

Grapes of Italy get little respect 10 A Distant Perspective

Which came first, Barbera or tomato?

12 72 Hours in the Columbia River Gorge Your guide to a long weekend in wine country

20 Walla Walla wineries connect with Seattle Kerloo Cellars, Lata Wines and Rotie Cellars

24 Oregon’s Ghost Hill Cellars A story of legacy and legend

28 Italian Red Varieties Tasting Results Reviews of the northwest’s top wines

Walla Walla wineries open Seattle tasting rooms p20

34 Northwest Wine Festival Results

Lost River Merlot named best of show

38 Northwest Wine Events 46 Match Makers

Idaho restaurant shares recipes, local wine pairings

54 Grapes of Roth

The dilemma of wine and food pairing

O N T H E C OV E R: M E M A LOS E V I NE Y A RD WI T H M T. H O O D I N T H E BAC KG R O UND

Match Makers p46

BY R I CHARD D UVAL , R I CHARD D UVAL PH OTOG RAPHY

Over

50 Years of Construction Excellence Est.1964

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor.

800-538-5619 or editor@winepressnw.com Contributors: Eric Degerman, Viki Eierdam, Andy Perdue, Dan Radil

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SMALL SCALE to LARGE SCOPE

Contributing photographers: Bob Brawdy, Tri-City Herald Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images Viki Eierdam Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 E-mail: cperkins@winepressnw.com To Subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check or money order to address below, call with credit card or subscribe securely on our website winepressnw.com “subscribe”.

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F a l l 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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the wine knows

BY ANDY PERDUE

The next Hood River?

A

decade or so ago, I was chatting with some winemakers about where "the next Woodinville" would be.

The thinking was this: Woodinville and its 130 current wineries and tasting rooms happened by accident: Ste. Michelle built there on a whim because a company executive wanted to live near Seattle. The rest moved in to take advantage of the chateau's 300,000 annual visitors.

Why not? It's smart marketing.

These winemakers mentioned Hood River as the place to go. They liked the town's proximity to Portland, and the touristy vibe.

Chelan is kind of like that. One winery owner decided to build his winery there when he found out how many cars drove past his property daily. Sure, there was a history of agriculture there, but the vines didn't go in until the wineries did.

Woodinville has proved what we in Washington have known all along : The wineries don't have to be near the vines.

The wineries can be anywhere, as long as there are customers nearby. A great example of this is Goose Ridge Estate Winery.

Owner of the largest vineyard in the state (at around 2,000 acres near Richland), it operates tasting rooms in Walla Walla, Leavenworth and Woodinville.

What probably kept Hood River from being overrun by satellite tasting rooms was the state line. For a Washington winery to open a tasting room in Oregon, it must also become an Oregon winery. By my count, three Washington wineries have done that so far. A few Oregon wineries have gone the other direction, opening tasting rooms in Washington.

Which begs the question: where is the next Woodinville — or Hood River?

Using the criteria we're working with here, it doesn't need to be near vineyards, nor does it need to have a tradition of winery operations. It just needs tourists willing to spend money.

With Olympia lawmakers now allowing 6

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

wineries to operate three satellite tasting rooms, this will become a bigger issue. The more wine a winery can sell directly to you, the more money it puts in its pocket.

For example, it seems like a winery could do well in Seattle's Pike Place Market. Lots of tourists, and plenty of free publicity every time the Seahawks play a national game because the broadcaster seems obligated to show fish being thrown around.

Even the Washington State Wine Commission used to have offices there.

Another obvious location would be Cannon Beach, on Oregon's northern coast.

Westport Winery near Aberdeen opened a tasting room there last year with moderate success. The winery's coastal theme helped it fit in right away. They needed an Oregon license to operate there, so it's more complicated than merely finding real estate downtown.

Another town that's popping is Bend, Ore. Va Piano in Walla Walla opened a location there last year. The area known as the Old Mill district seems ripe for more tasting rooms.

Washington's two largest cities also seem primed for an explosion of tasting rooms.

Seattle seems underutilized. The smart money would be on Georgetown. Charles Smith created Jet City, and his legion of fans followed. It is kind of like being near Ste. Michelle. A lot of wineries already have located in the SODO/Georgetown area.

Spokane also seems primed to take off, as the historic Davenport Hotel draws a lot of convention business. Several tasting rooms already have moved in, including Cougar Crest, Helix by Reininger, Patit Creek, Tempus, Va Piano from Walla Walla, Terra Blanca from Red Mountain and soon Maryhill Winery from the Gorge.

Other destination towns might help a cluster of winery tasting rooms thrive. We see a bunch in Leavenworth, which is famous merely for looking like Bavaria, already a naked grab for tourist dollars.

How about Poulsbo in north Kitsap

County? There are empty storefronts in downtown Bremerton. It’s no longer a tourist town since the Mighty Mo chugged off to Hawaii, but now it caters to Seattle professionals who can't afford to live in the city. The city formerly known as Winslow isn't a bad idea. There’s already a thriving wine culture on Bainbridge Island. Lots of charm, too.

My favorite: Port Townsend. Perhaps too far away from Seattle, but it has tourism already built in, and it has no shortage of charm. Towns such as Port Gamble and Port Ludlow might also fit the bill, but are a bit more remote.

I love downtown Bellingham, which also has the advantage of visitors from the Lower Mainland driving south every weekend from British Columbia to fill up on gas and milk.

I also like towns such as La Conner and maybe some pop-up tasting rooms in the Skagit Valley when tulips are blooming.

There's no shortage of charming sleepy towns in the Evergreen State that are ripe to be the next Woodinville or Hood River.

ANDY PERDUE is the editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. He's also the wine columnist for The Seattle Times, as well as an author and international wine judge.

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F a l l 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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swirl, sniff & sip

BY KEN ROBERTSON

Grapes of Italy get little respect

T

he Romans may be due the credit for spreading the gospel of the grape throughout the known world — or at least throughout their empire and beyond — but the more than 2,000 individual varieties of grapes grown in Italy get little notice in the Pacific Northwest.

When the revival of the Pacific Northwest’s wine industry began in earnest in the late 1960s and into the 1970s, our region embraced the wine grape varietals grown in France, especially from the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions.

Washington wine grape growers and winemakers also proved their mettle with Riesling, the signature grape of the Germans. Oregon growers and winemakers in the Willamette Valley fell hard for the fickle, hard-to-grow Pinot Noir of Burgundy, and married their lives, their fortunes and their honor to it.

In the ensuing decades, Eastern Washington growers and winemakers soon discovered King Cab thrived in the 100-degree heat and long days of our summers, and albeit more quietly, so did Merlot. And though Pinot Noir did not thrive in the heat, Burgundy’s signature white grape, Chardonnay did.

Those three joined Riesling at center stage.

A couple of decades into the revival, the most famous Rhône grape, Syrah, strode onto the Northwest wine stage, and soon sent Walla Walla Valley vintners into a swoon, abetted by besotted wine writers.

But the premier reds of Italy? At best, Sangiovese, Barbera, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and other reds of Northern Italy are no more than bit players. The Italian red varietal most familiar to Northwest wine drinkers is Zinfandel, I suspect. But its origins reach back to Croatia, across the Adriatic Sea, and it apparently reached Southern Italy across that body of water. In the process, it also morphed into Primitivo.

Thus, it’s not surprising that when Wine Press Northwest decided to focus on Italian red wine varietals for the Fall 2017 edition of the magazine, only 67 wines were entered.

It’s not from lack of quality. Those 67 entries were awarded two double gold medals and 19 gold medals. And a number of the 8

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

silver-medal winners were nipping at the heels of those top wines.

As might be expected, Sangiovese topped the gold-medal list with eight winners. Next was Barbera with five golds from 12 entries.

Then came three medals for Nebbiolo, two for Dolcetto and one each for Zinfandel and Primitivo. And a surprise: a gold for the only Sagrantino entered.

If you’ve never heard of Sagrantino, you’re not alone. The grape is from Central Italy and is grown primarily in the area around the city of Montefalco in the Umbrian region.

Although largely ignored in the Pacific Northwest, it’s also found a niche in Australia with several growers.

The gold medal winners came from a broad array of the Northwest’s American Viticultural Areas (AVAs). Five were grown in the Columbia Valley, four in the Walla Walla Valley, three each in the Yakima Valley and the Naches Heights AVAs and one each labeled from Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills, Rattlesnake Hills, Lake Chelan, Willamette Valley and Oregon.

The high quality indicates there’s plenty of opportunity for grapes of Italian origin to thrive in the Northwest. In Wine Press’s recent Rosé tasting, about 25 percent of the gold medal winners also were crafted at least partially from Sangiovese.

These two sets of tastings from 2017 prove that the Pacific Northwest can grow excellent examples of Italian wine grapes. And, I would argue, our adventurous winemakers and grape growers ought to consider pioneering more sites among our AVAs for some of the roughly 2,000 Italian varietals we have yet to see here, especially the largely ignored white wines and the red wines of the Central and Southern regions of Italy.

You’ll be hard pressed to find any Aglianico, a favorite in southern Italy, or Nero d’Avola, the star grape of Sicily, for example.

And the white wines fare even worse. Yes, Chateau Ste. Michelle and a few others make Moscato-styled wines, but that’s about it.

How about a nice sparkling Northwest alternative made from the grapes used in Prosecco? Or perhaps some wines made from

Arneis, a white from the Piedmont. A bit of Arneis has been planted, but it’s still rare in the Northwest. Or Fiano, a delightful dry white from Campania in southern Italy that can trace its roots back more than 2,000 years? It’s been totally ignored.

Yes, we are fortunate to have plenty of wine varieties here in the Pacific Northwest. But bringing in a few more of these immigrants can only enrich our experience.

Wine words: aromatic and neutral grape varieties Among the classic aromatic grape varieties are Gewürztraminer, Muscat and Riesling.

Anyone who’s sniffed a glass of any well-made wine from one of these varieties can easily understand the phrase. Their aromas usually are identifiable when compared with other varieties.

In the Pacific Northwest, I would argue that Albariño and Viognier, particularly when grown in certain American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), also fall into this mix. The signature aromas of these wines are largely due to high levels of terpenes, which are chemical compounds found in the essential oils of plants, according to The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia.

These aromatic varieties contrast with neutral grape varieties. Often these are minor grape varieties that usually “produce blandtasting, low-quality wines, but also encompass better known varieties such as the Melon de Bourgogne, Aligoté, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier and even classics such as Chardonnay and Sémillon,” Sotheby’s adds. “ … these varieties are ideal for oak-maturation bottling and sur lie, and turning into fine sparkling wines because their characteristics are enhanced rather than hidden by these processes.”

Some might argue about the oak aging suggested for some of these varieties, but the distinction has been handy for wine lovers and is unlikely to disappear anytime soon.

KEN ROBERTSON has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976.

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F a l l 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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a distant perspective

Which came first, the tomato or the Barbera?

T

he familiar cliché about chickens and eggs could well be replaced: Which came first, the tomato or the Barbe-

ra?

I’ve long believed French and Italian cuisines are polar opposites: The French love their cream, butter, emulsion sauces, and richness in all forms; the Italians embrace their counterpoint appreciation for acid.

Perhaps it doesn’t boil down to only those issues. But separating the cultures, at least for this discussion of their endemic wines, is at least one way to begin understanding the differences in these nations’ tastes.

The major wine differences between the two cultures starts with the different grape varieties that identify each and how they relate to basic foods.

Bordeaux and Burgundy are two of the greatest wine districts in the world and set the tone for all the world’s fine districts that pay homage to France as the progenitor for wine greatness, with one exception — Italy.

France’s Cabernet and Pinot Noir have been the two most widely “borrowed” red wine grapes, with Syrah entering the game recently.

All three of these varieties today grow in Italy, but they came along recently, and only after Sangiovese and Nebbiolo (not to mention Barbera and about 100 other red wine grapes) were already long established in Italy, and marked the style of wine the public adored.

France remains the resolute king of red wine since its primary grape varieties have been emulated around the world. But the Italian adoration for wine that went with its more seafood-, olive-, and olive oil-based cuisines, pastas, and especially Italy’s love of the tomato has recently gained more fame.

The key to this is that the tomato is an acid-based fruit (yes, a fruit!), and takes welcomingly to tart wine.

For example, Barbera, third most widely planted grape in Italy, dates from the 13th century in Italy. The tomato came some 300 years later. But the affinity each has for the other is now widely recognized.

The same goes for how the tomato works

10

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with Sangiovese and other red wine grapes of the many hundreds growing there.

The tart tomato eventually became synonymous with Italian cuisine partly because local wines seem to be so compatible with it, and the main reason was the terrific acidity of both grapes and “love apples.”

Italian red wines are fairly tart. Thus the best either must be aged for years, to tame the acid, or be consumed with food. Dried and cured meats, one of Italy’s most prized contributions to culinaria, also work brilliantly with such reds, as do tomato-sauced pasta dishes topped with cheeses like Parmigiano Reggiano, Romano or gorgonzola.

So it is natural to view these wines as an integral part of the Italian culinary scene. I, for one, cannot imagine Pasta Bolognese without a glass of Chianti or Barolo. The reason is simply that the food cries out for the balancing acidity the wine provides.

To determine the best of these wines, especially when they are grown in areas of the world such as the cool Pacific Northwest, isn’t easy because typical blind tastings are almost always done without food.

In such settings, the combination of high acidity and tannin makes for more pain than succulence.

So judges must infer from what they taste which of the wines would ultimately work best with proper foods. So what might taste good in a sans-food blind tasting may also be the wrong wine for polenta or risotto with wild mushrooms.

Also, an Italian grape varietal wine that tastes good now might well be a poor candidate to put in the cellar for a few years. A wine that tastes good when young usually is relatively low in acidity, and such wines usually age poorly.

As you can see, there are significant differences between the best red wines of Italy and France, and there is one more major difference that few people talk about. It is that we generally have a good understanding of what constitutes a great Burgundy or, alternativly, a Bordeaux, but what marks a great Sagrantino, Aglianico, or Brunello?

That is, unquestionably, a much more

BY DAN BERGER

arcane proposition, one that is almost impossible to learn unless you spend years looking carefully at all the different versions of each grape and how they are defined regionally, from district to district, throughout the Italian scene.

For instance, how many people know that Taurasi is a premium designation of Aglianico as it grows in a district of Campania? And how does Taurasi differ from Aglianico del Vulture of Basilicata?

What I find fascinating is that Italian red wine grapes now are finding a positive response among American wine lovers, many of whom realize that just a few additional years in a cellar can measurably improve a red wine from Italian grapes.

The most important fact about such wines is to know the acid and pH of the product before you buy. Any Sangiovese or Barbera with low acidity or a high pH, or both, is a warning sign that indicates the wine might not be better for aging.

Without knowing either statistic, watch carefully for wines with high alcohol – an indication of a shorter-lived red. You never see a Chianti with 15 percent alcohol; 12.5 percent to 13 percent is normal.

An American Sangiovese with 15 percent alcohol is likely to be tasty when young, but it’s an indication it won’t age.

DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences ( VintageExperiences.com).

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columbia river gorge

72 HOURS IN THE

COLUMBIA RIVER GORGE // BY ANDY PERDUE, SPECIAL TO WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

Mt. Hood provides a majestic backdrop for vineyard near Memaloose Winery in Lyle, Wash. (above) and Cascade Cliffs Winery across the river from Hood River, Ore. (oposite page) Richard Duval, Richard Duval Images 12

Wi ne Pr ess Nor t hw e s t • F a l l 2 0 1 7

W INEPRESSNW.COM

columbia river gorge The Columbia River Gorge has long been a favorite Northwest destination.

With Mount Adams looming in the north, and picture-perfect Mount Hood to the south, a trip through the gorge is among the prettiest drives in the United States.

Add in Multnomah Falls and granite and basalt cliffs carved out by time, the Columbia River and cataclysmic floods that roared through here at the end of the last ice age some 15,000 years ago, and the result is scenery that is quintessential great Northwest.

That the region also happens to be a thriving wine destination might just be too perfect. In the past decade, more vineyards have been planted and more wineries have called the area home.

Restaurants and lodging have followed, making the Gorge a happy place for wine lovers. Easy access from Portland (Hood River is an hour from the Portland airport) makes this a favorite and easily reachable destination from almost anywhere.

Autumn is a great time to visit the Gorge, thanks to lower traffic, great weather and the opportunity to see the grape harvest in action.

WINERIES In the past decade, the Columbia River Gorge region has grown into a robust wine-touring region. Wineries and tasting rooms are spread up and down both sides of the Columbia River over a 50-mile stretch. This means the wine traveler can spend a long weekend, or even a leisurely week touring the Gorge and finding no shortage of producers or styles of wines.

Here’s a rundown of the producers for your planning pleasure.

OREGON SIDE • Analemma Wines: This husband-wife team in Mosier relies primarily on fruit from Atavus Vineyard in Washington, a planting that’s nearly 50 years old.

• Cathedral Ridge Winery: Based in Hood River, this producer has among the most diverse portfolios, using grape sources from up and down the Gorge.

Sonoma-based Michael Sebastiani oversees the cellar here.

• Cerulean Wine: This Hood River WINEPRESS N W. COM

Mt. Adams and Mt. Hood winery

winery focuses on what it bills as natural wines using grapes primarily from estate grapes grown on the Washington side of the river.

• Garnier Vineyards: With fruit from a beautiful panoramic vineyard within the 300-acre Mayerdale Estate near Mosier, this small producer focuses on small lots of delicious hand-crafted wines.

• Hiyu Wine Farm: This 30-acre operation 22 miles from the summit of Mount Hood grows its grapes and makes the wines with biodynamic practices.

• Hood Crest Winery: This Hood River winery is owned and operated by former blues recording artists Patrik and Tess Barr. They make a wide variety of wines in their beautiful building.

• Marchesi Vineyards & Winery: The focus is on Italian-style wines at this Hood River winery.

• Mt. Hood Winery: This Hood River winery isn’t just one of the best wineries in the Gorge, but is also one of the top producers in Oregon, and maybe the entire Northwest, thanks to farming by the Bickford family and winemaking by Rich Cushman. It should be at the top of your must-visit wineries.

• Naked Winery: This fun, slightly bawdy operation has four tasting rooms throughout Oregon, including one in Hood River. Enjoy a wide variety of delicious wines with a good sense of humor.

• Phelps Creek Vineyards: One of the top producers in the Gorge, this Hood River winery makes what is arguably some of the best Pinot Noir in Oregon as result of Burgundy native winemaker Alexandrine Roy. The estate vineyard offers stunning views of Mount Hood.

• The Pines 1852: Most famous as the home to century-old Zinfandel vines, grower/owner Lonnie Wright and winemaker Peter Rosback combine for some of the oldest-producing grapevines in the Pacific Northwest. The wines are poured at their Hood River tasting room.

• Springhouse Cellar: This Hood River winery produces delicious wines from vines primarily in the Columbia Gorge region. The winery is known for its relaxed atmosphere and live music.

• Stave & Stone Wine Estates: This Hood River winery gets its grapes from

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its estate Broken Boulder Vineyard, and Rich Cushman produces a wide variety of wines, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Riesling.

• Viento Wines: Rich Cushman is responsible for many of the Columbia Gorge’s top wines, and this is his brand.

The modern tasting room is almost directly across Interstate 84 from the Columbia Gorge Hotel.

• Wy'East Vineyards: Based in Hood River, this producer makes a wide variety of extraordinary wines, displaying the diversity of the Pacific Northwest.

• Sunshine Mill Winery: This winery, in a 130-year-old wheat mill in The Dalles, produces a wide variety of wines under the Quenett brand using grapes from surrounding vineyards as well as the large-scale Copa Di Vino project. Also enjoy small plates in this historic setting.

WASHINGTON SIDE During the past decade, the wineries on the Washington side of the river multiplied to the point that one could save the Oregon side for a second trip if time runs short. Here’s a rundown.

• Maryhill Winery: The crown jewel of the Gorge wine scene without a doubt is Maryhill, near the town of Goldendale.

In its decade of operation, it has brought home thousands of medals from national and international competitions. Commanding views of the Gorge and Mount Hood, the well-appointed tasting rooms and 4,000-seat amphitheater make Maryhill one of the top destination wineries in the Pacific Northwest.

• AniChe Cellars: This small producer has a presence on both sides of the river, with tasting rooms in Underwood and Hood River. The focus here is on red blends, which owner/winemaker Rachael Horn does very well.

• Cascade Cliffs Vineyard & Winery: With 30-year-old vines perched dramatically atop basalt cliffs in the town of Wishram, owner Bob Lorkowski makes some of the best hidden gems in Washington. He shines with Italian reds and also operates a tasting room in downtown Hood River.

• Cor Cellars: This little winery in the town of Lyle produces 10 different wines using a combination of estate grapes as Fa l l 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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columbia river gorge

Syncline Wine Cellars uses a human touch — foot pressing — for a more delicate method of punching down the cap during the fermentation process on some of its wines.

James Mantone, owner/winemaker of Syncline Winery has elevated Syncline into cult status.

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well as nearby growing regions.

• Domaine Pouillon: This small, artisan producer in Lyle is headed

by French-born Alexis Pouillon, who makes a variety of bright wines without new oak and without any machinery.

• Hawkins Cellars: This winery 10 minutes across the Columbia River from Hood River in Underwood also has a tasting room in Dundee, Ore., producing a number of wines under the direction of owner Thane Hawkins.

• Jacob Williams Winery: This family-owned winery in the town of Wishram produces some of the best Chardonnay, Merlot and Cab in the Gorge under the direction of veteran winemaker John Haw. • Major Creek Cellars: Open only by appointment, Steve Mason caps production at his White Salmon operation at around 200 cases. He focuses on Rhône varieties and excels with them.

• Marshal’s Winery: Ron Johnson’s unpretentious winery near the tiny community of Dallesport has estate vines that date back to the 1984, and a wide variety of wines to fit just about W INEPRESSNW.COM

columbia river gorge

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Maryhill Winery and vineyard along the Columbia River on the Washington side offers commanding views of the Gorge and Mount Hood. It’s well known for quality wines and concerts held in a 4,000 seat amphitheater.

any palate.

• Memaloose Wines: This Lyle winery is home to two labels: Memaloose and Idiot’s Grace. Owned by the McCormick family of spice and seasonings fame, the winery pulls from five organic estate vineyards along the Columbia River.

• Syncline Wine Cellars: James Mantone’s work with Rhône-style wines put Lyle on the Northwest wine map and elevated Syncline into cult status. It should be high on any list of must-visit Gorge wineries.

• Tetrahedron: Lyle native Kelly Johnson worked in Napa Valley after graduating from Washington State University, then returned home after 13 years to launch her own brand with grapes from nearby vineyards. She produces a Charbono using grapes from a friend down in California.

• Waving Tree Vineyards & Winery: Terrence Atkins founded his winery in 2001 and focuses on Italian and Rhône varieties. The winery is three miles west of the Maryhill Museum and near the Stonehenge Memorial, which was dedicated in 1918.

WINEPRESS N W. COM

More than a great place to stay…

• Complimentary tastes at 13 local wineries with our guest Wine Tasting Pass • Indoor or outdoor dining at Riverside with our award-winning wine list (offering over 50 Gorge AVA selections and more than 200 total choices).

• Cebu Lounge features Riverside’s wine list plus an extensive offering of beers on tap and spirits.

• Shoreline pool, spa, walking path.

• Enjoy Crush and Harvest this Fall.

hoodriverinn.com • 800-828-7873

Exit 64 off I-84 • Hood River, Oregon Fa l l 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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columbia river gorge

Skamania Lodge in Stevenson, Wash. offers visitors beautiful rooms, fine dining, golf and more.

• White Salmon Vineyard: Peter Brehm tends his estate vines and crafts cool-climate wines at this winery near Underwood, across the Columbia from Hood River.

LODGING Thanks to increased interest in the Gorge, the lodging choices are many, particularly in Hood River. In addition to these choices, check AirB&B (300 choices) and VRBOs that will fit any budget.

• Columbia Gorge Hotel: Of all the grand hotels to stay in throughout the Pacific Northwest, this bubbles to the top of my list. Amazing history, well-appointed rooms, the only privately owned waterfall in Oregon and a great restaurant. The CGH has it all. There is nothing quite like it.

• Carson Hot Springs Golf and Spa Resort, operated by the former owners of Bonneville Hot Springs, offers a variety of lodging options beyond the historic St. Martin Hotel and includes recently reopened Elk Ridge Golf Course.

• Columbia Gorge Villas: This prop16

Wi ne Pr ess Nor t hw e s t • F a l l 2 0 1 7

erty next to the Columbia Gorge Hotel offers high-end rooms with stunning 270-degree views of the gorge. A remarkable property.

• Hood River Hotel: This centuryold property along the Columbia River provides well-apportioned rooms and a great restaurant with a renowned wine program.

• Hood River Inn: This Best Western property has been operating along the riverfront in Hood River for a half-century. Stunning views capture the spirit of the Gorge.

• Skamania Lodge: Across the river in Stevenson, this beautiful property is set amid the woods of the Gorge. Wellknown for its beautiful rooms, property and culinary program, this is a scenic masterpiece. Includes a golf course and a zip line tour.

• Lyle Hotel: Built more than a century ago, this grand old railroad hotel now is a European-style hotel and dining establishment. This will give you a taste of the Old World in the Gorge.

• Westcliffe Lodge: This property

A grand historic hotel, the Columbia Gorge Hotel offers historic elegance and great dining in a one-of-akind setting.

W INEPRESSNW.COM

columbia river gorge near the Columbia Gorge Hotel in Hood River provides stunning views of the Gorge from the south side of the river. In addition to well-apportioned rooms, it also offers glamping options.

• Inn of the White Salmon: This charming property across the river from Hood River gives you an Old World flavor in the Gorge. A beautiful 22-room property with gardens and a courtyard makes this one of the most romantic spots in the heart of Gorge wine country.

• Three Sleeps Vineyard B&B in Mosier is surrounded by biodynamically farmed grapes for Dominio IV winery in Carlton, Ore. The B&B is operated by the parents of acclaimed viticulturist Leigh Bartholomew and offers views of Mount Adams.

RESTAURANTS With the growth of the wine industry and tourism in the gorge, the arrival of great dining options is a blessed and welcome benefit. Here are a few of our favorites.

• Columbia Gorge Hotel: Simon’s Cliffhouse inside the Columbia Gorge Hotel is one of the premiere restaurants in the Gorge, drawing diners from Portland and beyond. Stunning views match the superb cuisine.

• Henni’s Kitchen & Bar: South African chef Christiaan Erasmus lures locavores to his eclectic restaurant in White Salmon, and wife Sarah Morton-Erasmus oversees perhaps the most thoughtful wine list in the region.

• Riverside Grill: Inside the Hood River Inn, this is the best spot for enjoying overlooking the Columbia River up close. Classic Northwest-inspired cuisine.

• Sixth Street Bistro: This has long been among the top spots to eat in Hood River. The focus is on fresh local ingredients with a great vibe.

• Three Rivers Grill: This Hood River eatery combines Northwest-inspired cuisine with spectacular views of the Columbia River. The seasonal menu will not disappoint.

• Celilo Restaurant: Longtime Hood River chef Ben Stenn launched this operation after running the Sixth Street Bistro WINEPRESS N W. COM

for a decade. The focus here is farm to fork, with the primary ingredients coming from nearby farms.

• Solstice Wood Fire Cafe: Along the riverfront in Hood River, this pizza place has great food and a college-town vibe.

• Baldwin Saloon: With a history dating back to the 1860s, this is one of the top fine dining places in The Dalles. Its colorful history and delicious cuisine will

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ensure a memorable visit.

• China Gorge: If you’re in the mood for Chinese, this is a favorite stop for winemakers picking up grapes in the Gorge.

• Egg River Cafe: A day of wine touring should start with a hearty breakfast, and there’s no better stop for breakfast than Egg River.

• Cousin’s: Hearty farm-inspired fare, complete with a tractor in the middle of

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Regional wine tours, on-property spa, zip line tour, Aerial Park and three fabulous dining choices make Skamania one of the BEST ways to experience America’s amazing Pacific Northwest.

Book now at 844-602-5103.

STEVENSON, WA

• 844-602-5103 • SKAMANIA.COM Fa l l 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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columbia river gorge

the dining room, this breakfast, lunch and dinner stop in The Dalles won’t leave you hungry.

• Bette's Place: Based in the heart of downtown Hood River, this is another favorite stop for a hearty breakfast before you hit the wine trail.

• Doppio Coffee: Great coffee helps fuel wine adventures, and this spot in downtown Hood River is a great way to start your day or stop by for a midday refuel.

• Stonehedge Gardens: This great dinner location with absolutely some of the best atmosphere in the Gorge. It’s run by Michael Caldwell, author of the terrific book Varietal Tendencies.

• Pine Street Kitchen: This Hood River restaurant focuses on fresh, local cuisine served family style.

• Mekong Thai: If you’re looking for delicious Thai, this Hood River restaurant will not disappoint. Great food to enjoy with a local bottle of Riesling.

• Pelinti Pizza: If what you’re looking for is a delicious pizza after a full day of wine touring, this fills the bill, along with a great beer selections and great Northwest atmosphere.

• Walking Man Brewing: One of the best lunch stops on the Washington side, this brewpub serves up its own beer with great burgers, pizzas and salads.

• Crooked Tree Tavern: This brewpubstyle stop at Copper Spur Mountain Resort is on the road to Timberline Lodge, a great destination if off the beaten path.

• River Daze Cafe: With a focus on local, organic cuisine, River Daze in Hood River is the perfect stop for breakfast or lunch.

BREWERIES Hood River is renowned for its microbrew scene. If you need a break from wine and crave a refreshing brew, here are some choices.

• Double Mountain: This Hood River brewery and spacious brewpub is renowned for delicious beer and pizzas. A favorite of local winemakers.

• Big Horse offers great food and delicious seasonal beers in Hood River.

• Full Sail: An Oregon favorite in downtown Hood River for the past three 18

Wi ne Pr ess Nor t hw e s t • F a l l 2 0 1 7

decades, backed by a brewpub with a loaded and delicious menu.

• Logsdon Farmhouse Ales: This Hood River brewery is in transition as it has closed its taproom downtown and its farm location is not open to the public.

The beers are available for sale locally.

• Freebridge: This brewery in The Dalles provides a colorful history to go along with delicious beer and pizzas.

• Sedition: This brewery in The Dalles serves up delicious beer and plates of food, including sandwiches and salads.

ANDY PERDUE is the founding editor of Wine Press

Northwest. He is the editor and publisher of Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company, author, international wine judge and wine columnist for The Seattle Times.

Big, Bold, Sensuous Reds.

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3 Avery Rd | Wishram, WA Look for Avery Park off Highway 14 F a l l 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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seattle

Walla Walla wineries open Seattle tasting rooms STORY BY D A N R A D I L PHOTOGRAPHY BY Z A C C H O R E L I F R E S C O B A L D I - G R I M A L D I

Andrew Latta of Latta Wines comes from a restaurant background that included a stint at a Thailand resort.

A

t first glance, the cities of Seattle and Walla Walla would appear to have little in common: an urban, metropolitan hub of 3.7 million versus a small town of 32,000; home to techies, high-rises and heavy traffic versus an isolated, rural community surrounded by onions, grapes and all things agricultural…and so on.

But over the past decade or so, there’s been 20

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

a strengthening bond between these two unlikely partners. Washington’s exploding wine industry has seen a growing number of Walla Walla-based wineries open up second tasting rooms in the Seattle area. Drawn to a huge population base with an unignorably wine-savvy core of millennials and well-seasoned wineophiles, Walla Walla wineries have been setting up shop in the Emerald City with great success.

Among those making the cross-Cascade

expansion are Kerloo Cellars, Rôtie Cellars, and Latta Wines; three wineries that are bound together by geography, friendship, and the desire to produce exceptional Washington State wines.

KERLOO CELLARS A self-described “food and wine dork,” Ryan Crane grew up in the Seattle area before moving to Walla Walla in the mid 2000s.

There he immersed himself in the wineW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

seattle F EATURE key to making great wines. Our goal is to showcase the fruit, showcase the vineyard and make wines that are a little more restrained with lower alcohol and higher acids. A huge part of our success is choosing the right vineyard for the right varietal. Then it’s my job not to screw things up,” he says with a smile.

The focus at Kerloo is Rhone varietals, but Crane says, “I like to do a few fun things like Tempranillo…and Malbec as well.” He currently bottles under two labels, the vineyarddesignated Kerloo Cellars, running about $20 to $50-a-bottle and the second-tier $15 to $18-a-bottle Sodo Cellars label.

RÔTIE CELLARS Kerloo Cellars' Operations & Marketing Director, Yvonne Davis, pours wine for tasting room customers.

Sean Boyd, winemaker at Rotie Cellars, focuses on terrior-driven Rhone varietal wines. ···

KerlooCellars.com Contact: (206) 349-0641

RotieCellars.com Contacts: (206) 359-0905, (509) 301-9074

LattaWines.com Contact: Andrew@lattawines.com

making profession, first while working with Marie-Eve Gilla of Forgeron Cellars, and then over a five year period with Va Piano’s Justin Wylie.

While at Va Piano, Crane established his own winery and first vintage with Kerloo Cellars in 2007. He opened a tasting room in downtown Walla Walla in 2010; a second, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Seattle-based location followed in September of 2014.

Crane was one of the first wineries to open in his existing Seattle space, and having a centrally-located, large-yet-malleable warehouse to work with helped create the tasting room he envisioned. “I always wanted to build a swanky, fun, urban winery…and Woodinville just wasn’t me,” he says. “We’re (also) right in the heart of the market yearround, and with so many wine club members in the area, it offers them more accessibility.”

Crane’s winemaking philosophy is to “strive to make wines that are balanced, focused and distinct.” He also notes that, “having a good relationship with the growers is ultimately the

A Puget Sound native, Sean Boyd started as a geologist, until an off-time travel opportunity in 2004 to visit a friend and several winemakers in Walla Walla led to a career change. “Drinking good wines and talking to the winemakers…I came away from that saying, ‘I’ve got to be a part of this,’” he recalls.

Boyd started his training with Rich Funk of Walla Walla’s Saviah Cellars, who at the time was a microbiologist, which helped him establish his winemaking philosophy. “With winemaking you need to have the science behind it, but I’m definitely on the pendulum of being a minimalist. I want to find out what comes out of the terrior, the vineyard, the soil type…that’s what I’m interested in.”

Later on, while working as assistant winemaker at Waters Winery, he worked with a French consultant whom Boyd recalls, “…it was like talking to God. Every day my learning curve went through the roof.”

During his time at Waters he struck up a friendship with Ryan Crane and also established Rôtie Cellars in 2007. He set out on his own in 2010 and opened a tasting room in Walla Walla, which is also home to a newly completed 5,000-square-foot barrel room and production facility at the airport.

Crane convinced him to open a second tasting room in Seattle in 2016. “I didn’t want to open up another tasting room,” but after seeing Kerloo’s success, Boyd says with a grin, “Ryan was instrumental in showing me (it could work).”

As far as Rôtie wines are concerned, “We really started our focus on Rhone varietals…Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre for starters and then the whites, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne,” he says. Future plans include a F a l l 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Latta Wines' eye-catching 2013 Roussanne is beautifully.

third tasting room in Milton-Freewater, Ore., near roughly 19 acres of owned vineyards that are planted within The Rocks AVA.

first Washington wine (from L’Ecole) and he also knew the state was an up-andcoming wine region.

“I had been in touch with Stan Clarke of the Walla Walla Community College Enology and Viticultural Program,” he recalls, “and he was absolutely instrumental in me moving here.”

After his schooling and a stint as a cellar rat at Dunham Cellars, Latta landed a job with Charles Smith in 2006, where he worked first, as assistant, and then head winemaker for nine years. Also during that time, he was able to come to an agreement with Smith to start up Latta Wines in 2011.

Latta cites a conversation with Sean Boyd on a flight from Walla Walla to Seattle as what might have been the catalyst for his eventual move west in late 2016. He still maintains a space in Walla Walla he affectionately refers to as “The Bunker,” located at the airport and used for private events. still drinking “I’m judicious with my use of oak,” he says about his winemaking practices, “(because) I want the vineyard sites to come through.” In selecting his vineyards, Latta notes, “while working for Charles (Smith) I

saw just about every vineyard in the state, and these were the spots where the varietals had something to say.”

Although he started with just the Malbec and Grenache varietals, Latta says his winemaking has “evolved into more of a Rhone project…although I’m keeping the door open to a nice, acidic white wine like Chenin Blanc.”

A COMMON THREAD In addition to their Walla Walla connections, Kerloo, Rôtie and Latta are part of a group of over 20 wineries that bill themselves as the “Seattle Urban Wineries.” The three of them are clustered with several others in the warehouse district in Seattle’s Sodo neighborhood, just south of the downtown core, and it’s not uncommon to find them sharing special tasting events that include food trucks and live music.

But it’s clear that the three wineries share more than a common area for their Western Washington tasting rooms.

“Not only do the three of us make wines pretty different from most everyone in the State,” Latta says, “(we’re) probably the three most similar wineries as far as what we’re pouring content-wise. It’s pretty interesting.”

Interesting, varietally correct, and a-pleasure-to-taste wines. That’s a good thing for anyone who’s lucky enough to live in Washington…from Walla Walla to Seattle.

DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com.

LATTA WINES Andrew Latta took a much different winemaking path before starting in Walla Walla and then ending at his current tasting room in Seattle.

Latta grew up in Kentucky, and worked his way up in the restaurant industry from busboy to sommelier, eventually landing in a fine dining establishment in Cincinnati and later at a Thailand resort.

“I loved the convergence of history and agriculture and chemistry (of winemaking) …and I always liked the hands-on process,” he says. His studies as a sommelier led him to his 22

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

Aug. 29 - Sept. 29

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ghost hill cellars

Ghost Hill Cellars, a Bayliss family legacy

Seventy-year-old handmade glass from Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey, a portion of the altar floor circa 1954, and fir from a 1906 barn are all repurposed into the Ghost Hill Cellars tasting room.

Viki Eierdam STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY VIKI EIERDAM

B

ayliss-Bower Vineyard sits on 234 undulating acres in of the YamhillCarlton American Viticultural Area, one of Oregon's most celebrated AVAs. On a hill that wasn’t good for much else, 16 acres of vines bear fruit for Ghost Hill Cellars’ all-estate Pinot Noir program. It is a testament to the blood that runs through the veins of Mike Bayliss and the three-gener24

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

ation legacy he inherited and aspires to pass on.

In the Pacific Northwest, grape growers are the substance of the vineyards. They are simultaneously visionaries and the keepers of a heritage, the ones who had the forethought to replace a crop that was no longer profitable and the tenacity to bequeath something tangible to the next generation.

“I don’t know if people can understand what it’s like to have farming in your blood, to be part of the soil," Bayliss said. "I was raised here. My grandfather and my dad were raised here. My great-grandfather passed away here. I couldn’t be happier any other place.”

Twenty years ago, with that perspective rooted in his mind, Mike and his wife, Drenda, struck up a partnership with the fifth W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

ghost hill cellars F EATURE generation — their son, Michael, daughter, Bernadette, and son-in-law, Cameron — to continue what began over 90 years prior.

“We knew it would be fairly good grape ground. I asked Ken Wright about it and showed him the hill I wanted to plant it on and I said ‘So, what do you think?’ and he said ‘How much do you want for it?’” Baylis said.

Grapes were planted in 1999 and today, in keeping with the high environmental standards that Oregon is known for, BaylissBower Vineyard is LIVE-certified and Salmon-Safe. UC Davis graduate Eric Hamacher came on as winemaker during the 2015 harvest and brings a traditional approach to the grapes that marries well with the Bayliss philosophy. Prior to working directly for Ghost Hill Cellars, Hamacher had been using Bayliss-Bower fruit for his own label, making it an easy transition.

Since Ghost Hill makes about 1,000 cases annually, the remaining grapes are sold to area wineries. Back in 2013, some of the Pinot Noir made it into 200 cases of Grow Africa Pinot Noir — a collaboration between Grow International and former Ghost Hill Cellars’ winemaker, Rebecca Pittock Shouldis. Proceeds from its sales are used to train and equip families in Africa to become small-scale farmers.

With his affinity for history, Mike has repurposed special pieces into the Ghost Hill Cellars tasting room. Seventy year-old handmade glass was taken from nearby Our Lady of Guadalupe Trappist Abbey, the tasting bar is a portion of the altar floor, circa 1954, and the back wall is fir from a barn his grandfather built in 1906.

The wines themselves tell the story best.

Their 2012 Prospector’s Reserve Pinot Noir

A farmer at heart, Mike is happiest on his tractor and inspecting the grapes for Ghost Hill Cellars.

Viki Eierdam

canasfeast.com 750 W Lincoln Street Carlton, OR Tasting Room Open: Monday by Appointment Tuesday - Sunday 11am to 5pm

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

F a l l 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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ghost hill cellars

‘ L I VIN G ’ HI STO RY AT G H O ST HIL L CELLAR S According to Mike Bayliss, Ghost Hill could’ve just as easily been named Bad Luck Hill. In the early 1860s, the Gold Rush was going strong in Oregon. An old military road (likely the Salem-Astoria Military Road) ran through what is now the Bayliss family farm. Although it never saw any military action, it was a main thoroughfare for settlers. One night, a miner made camp under a small cluster of trees with his gold dust booty and his trusty horse.

Sometime in the middle of the night, another man sneaked into his camp, killed him and his horse and made off with his miner’s gold. Legend has it that people still see the slain miner today walking around looking for his treasure.

Or, could it be a long-dead bank robber? Bayliss also says a bank robbery took place in Carlton in the late 1800s. During a shootout, one of the robbers was mortally wounded but managed to escape on horseback. He rode out to the Bayliss farm, hid in a swale covered in trees, sent his horse ahead and later died from his wounds.

According to Bayliss, it took a month for his body to be recovered.

“Two people dying of gunshot wounds in the same place? I’m glad they called it Ghost Hill because it could’ve been called Really Really Bad Luck Hill,” he said.

received 94 points from Wine Enthusiast and their 2012 Bayliss-Bower Pinot Noir scored a 93. Recently, Wine Press Northwest rated the 2015 Rosé of Pinot Noir ‘excellent.’

About his venture from grain to grapes, Bayliss said, “It’s been a real learning experience and it’s more hands-on than farming.

You have to market your product and I’ve done things that I had no idea I could do.”

Amid the fertile soil of the Bayliss farm, on a hill that wasn’t good for much else, 16 acres of vines bear fruit for Ghost Hill Cellars’ all-estate Pinot Noir program.

Viki Eierdam

Riverfront Estate

Tremendous location for a winery and event center. Located just 3 miles from I-5 & the new Ilani Casino in La Center, WA. This property sits beautifully on the bank of the East Fork of the Lewis River with a 1,000 plus feet of frontage directly across from a County natural preserve area. The property boasts 21 rolling acres, 2 homes- one being of iconic mid-century design and a huge vintage barn perfect for pressing and events. Absolutely one of a kind property. $1,790,000

VIKI EIERDAM is a freelance writer based in Vancouver, Wash. She produces a wine and travel blog. Savorsipandsojourn.com

For a private showing call Erica L. Rodman

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TA S T I N G RESU LT S

italian reds

ITAL IAN R E DS SHOW G R O WING P O T ENTIAL IN PAC IFIC NO RT HWEST

BY ERIC DEGERMAN, SPECIAL TO WINE PRESS NORTHWEST

P

aul Beveridge has been an important figure in the Washington wine industry for nearly 30 years. He operates the longest-running winery in Seattle, established the state’s second biodynamic vineyard and occasionally applies his law degree from Columbia University to help modernize the regulations he and his peers grapple with every day.

At the same time, there’s Beveridge’s love affair with Italy, and that passion shows in his vineyard west of Yakima, where he dotes on varieties such as Barbera, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and the obscure Sagrantino. Based on this summer’s judging of Italian reds made in the Northwest, Beveridge has found a sweet spot in the Naches Heights, which was established as an American Viticultural Area in 2012.

“I’ve been working with Nebbiolo for 20 28

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

years. I knew it needed a really long growing season, but the site can’t be too hot,” Beveridge said. "The Naches Heights seemed a good fit because we’re at 1,500 feet elevation with good air drainage and no rain at harvest."

Wine Press Northwest last focused on these styles of wines in 2013, and while proprietary blends were not a large component, they produced two of the top wines in that judging. This time, the tasting was limited to bottlings labeled as a single variety. That led to 67 entries.

For the most part, these are pet projects and small lots. Beveridge serves as a prime example. At Wilridge Vineyard, there is an acre of Nebbiolo, an acre of Sangiovese, which is split between the Brunello and Piccolo clones, half an acre of Barbera and 2 acres of Sagrantino.

"I know they used Sagrantino for the Vatican, and it means ‘sacred blood’ in Italian," Beveridge said. "I fell in love with Umbria and Montefalco, which is known for its restaurants, its truffles and its wine. While Nebbiolo and Sangiovese are lighter reds, Sagrantino is just the opposite. It’s got the power and the tannin and the color that Americans like. It’s like a Super Tuscan without having to add the Cabernet."

Sagrantino has been a 20-year project for Beveridge, one that began with cuttings from the University of California-Davis wine library, which he took to Washington State University and then Lodmell Vineyard in Walla Walla County. In 2012, he brought 30 plants to Wilridge.

Historically, Sagrantino has been a passito wine, dried to concentrate sugars for sweetness. At Wilridge, it’s a dry red that’s unblended but more approachable than standalone bottlings produced around Montefalco.

“I love that the judges loved it, but it’s a light Sagrantino,” Beveridge chuckled.

The tasting also showed that Northwest Sangiovese with a bit of age is showing well.

“Sangiovese is super food-friendly,” Beveridge said. "Nebbiolo is the Italian Pinot Noir - a Pinot Noir with power, with tannin. I love Nebbiolo with grilled salmon - not poached salmon - and with grilled chicken. It’s the W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

italian reds TA ST IN G RE SULTS

WINE RATINGS All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after.

Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities.

Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics.

Prices are suggested retail.

perfect Thanksgiving dinner wine."

And while Beveridge has enjoyed some success with Barbera, he views it as vintage dependent.

"It’s planted in really shallow soils, and that could be my issue with it," he said. "The 2013, ‘14 and ‘15 vintages were ideal. I’ll be honest, the 2016s are not as good."

Regardless, this tasting of Italian red varieties seemed to be another reflection of the diversity in Washington.

"I was in Italy this spring, and Italy is half the size of Washington," Beveridge said.

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"They’ve had 4,000 years to grow grapes, and we’ve had 50 years. There is so much great terroir in Washington, and we’re in the right spot that we can grow almost all of the hot weather varieties. Maybe it’s not the right spot for Pinot Noir, but Nebbiolo? I think it’s our answer to Pinot Noir."

This Italian reds competition was staged during June, overlooking the Columbia River at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash.

Our judges were Kristine Bono, direct to consumer manager, Tertulia Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.; Andy Perdue, wine columnist, The Seattle Times; Mike Rader, tasting panelist, Great Northwest Wine; Ken Robertson, columnist, Wine Press Northwest; and Brad Smith, instructional technician vineyard and winery technology, Yakima Valley College.

They tasted all the wines blind, meaning they knew the variety of wine they were judging but not the producers. They are listed largely by the order of finish, however they appear alphabetically when scored the same.

Here are the results:

Outstanding!

TERO Estates $24 2013 Barbera, Walla Walla Valley It’s delicious irony that this wine produced by Mike Tembreull and Doug Roskelley should top

our judging because these longtime friends first talked about making wine and buying a vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley while enjoying dinner in an Italian restaurant. Roskelley, the winemaker and the "RO" in TERO Estates, gives his wines an extra year of bottle age, which allows this Barbera to mature into a beauty, opening with aromas of cherry pie filling, strawberry and raspberry with fresh mint and baking spice. There’s density to the round and ripe flavors of plum and Bing cherry that lead to a long finish of blueberry cobbler and cocoa powder. (128 cases, 14.1% alc.)

Westport Winery Garden Resort $27 2016 Message In A Bottle, Yakima Valley Since the judging called for standalone bottlings of Italian reds, Grays Harbor winemaker Dana Roberts chose to enter the rosé he makes from Sangiovese off historic Red Willow Vineyard. The pink wine crafted using Grosso clone fruit is stunningly beautiful with amazing florals of rose petal and violets joined by a theme of white strawberry, pink raspberry and peach fuzz. There’s a lick of Jolly Rancher watermelon candy in the midpalate, yet bright acidity provides for a clean finish to pair with Crab Louie. Sales of this wine help support the West Coast Search Dogs of Washington. (157 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Five Star Cellars $30 2013 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Matt Huse labored as a carpenter before becoming one of the first to enroll in the Walla Walla Community College winemaking program, and this vintage marked his 10th anniversary as a graduate

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of College Cellars. He pulled Sangiovese from three of the Walla Walla Valley’s top vineyards — Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Blue Mountain — to create this delicious wine. Sweet oak, rose petals and ripe fruit make for creamy flavors of blueberries and boysenberry. The tannins are resolved and akin to espresso grounds, setting the table for an amazing finish.(430 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $40 2015 Wilridge Vineyard Estate Sagrantino, Naches Heights Seattle winemaking attorney Paul Beveridge has been charmed and inspired by his visits to the Italian culinary destination of Montefalco, a medieval hilltop town in Umbria. Sagrantino is the robust grape variety that’s closely linked to this region, and while it is known for sweet wines or being blended with Sangiovese, Beveridge crafts it into a dry red with a medium structure. Typicity comes through in the notes of dark strawberry, white truffle and hints of forest floor and clove. Big yet chocolaty tannins still allow for a juicy finish of blackberry, cassis and raspberry, backed by vanilla and black pepper. Call now.(38 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Ancestry Cellars $25 2014 Heritage Series Line 22 Primitivo, Walla Walla Valley A second career as a winemaker has led Northwest Wine Academy product Jason Morin into opening tasting rooms in Woodinville and Lake Chelan, and he pulls his Primitivo from Les Collines in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Its pleasing nose offers lots of toast, cherry cola, vanilla and a stroll through a flower market while leading to bold and dark flavors of dried strawberry, Royal Ann cherry 30

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and plum. The finish of red currant and orange oil provides rewarding acidity. (121 cases, 15% alc.)

Eleganté Cellars $36 2013 Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley Retired chemistry teacher Doug Simmons burnishes his reputation with Sangiovese, and Blue Mountain Vineyard remains the trusted source for his annual tribute to Tuscany. Three years in barrel fashion the fascinating aromas of clove and maple that include fresh flowers, red currant and black cherry. The flavor profile is focused on acidity as raspberry and red currants balance out the blueberry skin tannins. Judging by his previous vintages, this release will improve even more in the next few years. (132 cases, 12.7% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $35 2014 Wilridge Vineyard Estate Nebbiolo, Naches Heights Italian Barolo ranks among the world’s most noble wines, and winemakers around the world continue to chase Nebbiolo in hopes of replicating some of the great bottlings from Piedmont. Paul Beveridge shows promise with these four barrels from his biodynamic vineyard in the hills west of Yakima.

There’s maturity showing in the nose of dusty rose, plum, dark cherry and blueberry with grilled mushroom earthiness. Inside, there’s a reward of Montmorency cherry, dried cranberry and chocolate-covered blueberry, making for a long and supremely balanced finish.(83 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Harbinger Winery $26 2011 Sagemoor Vineyards Barbera, Columbia Valley Barbera is best known as a youthful wine, but

Olympic Peninsula winemaker Sara Gagnon proves that this high-acid grape native to Piedmont has some staying power. She used American oak and small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon to deal with the acidity, leading to a balanced structure and presenting notes of sweet cherry, blueberry and chocolate with a pinch of thyme and a puff of chalkboard dust. It’s an ideal barbecue wine and a smooth drink. (165 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Kitzke Cellars $33 2013 Nebbiolo, Red Mountain The Wine Boss, aka Charlie Hoppes, spearheaded the winemaking for the Kitzke family until their son Seth recently took over their West Richland, Wash., program. This can serve as a template going forward. It’s a massive wine with lots of structure, starting with a darker color than most Nebbiolo.

Enticing aromas of black cherry, blueberry and mustard seed lead to substantial flavors of Rainier cherry, cooked strawberry and pomegranate. (48 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Kitzke Cellars $25 2013 Sangiovese,Columbia Valley A number of producers have pulled Sangiovese from Candy Mountain Vineyard, and the Kitzkes slowly have been transitioning their orchards that surround their Candy Mountain tasting room into grape vines. These three barrels of estate Sangiovese yield aromas of strawberry, orange zest, chocolate and vanilla with flavors to match. Smooth cherry-skin tannins and raspberry acidity lead to a finish of strawberry freezer jam with a misting of orange oil.(73 cases, 14.2% alc.)

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italian reds TASTING RESULTS cherry-skin tannins and raspberry acidity lead to a finish of strawberry freezer jam with a misting of orange oil.(73 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Lopez Island Vineyards $25 2014 Sangiovese, Rattlesnake Hills Salish Sea winemaker Brent Charnley grows some of the most stunning white wines in the Northwest, but he relies on the Columbia Valley for his red program. In the case of Sangiovese, it’s acclaimed Elephant Mountain Vineyards in the upper reaches of the Yakima Valley. The juice spent a year in neutral oak barrels, and it now offers complex aromas of blackberry, black cherry and fig with a rub of sage and thyme. There’s no disappointment to the flavor profile, which carries great pomegranate acidity, backed by spice, cocoa powder and graphite.(125 cases, 14% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards $28 2013 Zinfandel, Oregon Umpqua Valley vintner Patrick Spangler often ranges beyond Southern Oregon to find the fruit to match his expectations, and he’s achieved a sense of elegance with this Zinfandel. The nose offers mocha and cardamon to join the hints of cherry and strawberry, and both fruits plop right into the mouth. Blueberry skin tannins, freshbrewed coffee and well-managed alcohol allow for a fresh and juicy finish that Zin lovers can sip all day. (165 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Walnut City WineWorks $18 2014 Dolcetto, Willamette Valley The grape that Italians dubbed “little sweet one” has found a home at Jubilee Vineyard in Oregon’s cooler Eola-Amity Hills, and it shines in the hands of McMinnville winemaker Michael Lundeen. The University of Oregon product spent a harvest at Castello di Verduno in Piedmont, where they bottle Dolcetto, and it would seem as though he drew upon that experience for this bargain. Harvested on Oct. 1 at 22.5 Brix, these berries spent 10 months in neutral barrels, which preserves aromas of cherry pipe tobacco, blueberry, rosemary and clove. Pleasing boysenberry tartness and brooding tannins receive a long and lovely send off of cherry cola and vanilla. (250 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Whidbey Island Winery $25 2014 Dolcetto, Yakima Valley Puget Sound winemaker Greg Osenbach imported fruit from opposite ends of the Yakima Valley — Elephant Mountain in the west and Crawford near Prosser - for this blueberry-themed Dolcetto.

Raspberry, blueberry taffy, cocoa powder and tarragon aromas spill into rich berry flavors with black cherry. A rewarding firmness of plum skin tannins is met by pomegranate acidity for a long, fruity finish. (120 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Cavatappi Winery $20 2013 Molly's Cuvee Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Seattle restaurateur Peter Dow talked Mike Sauer into planting Italian varieties at Red Willow Vineyard in 1985, starting with Nebbiolo, and SangioW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

vese found its way not long after. And while three of Washington’s top vineyards are listed on the bottle, it is Red Willow in the foothills of Mount Adams that dominates this bottling. Raspberry and cranberry aromas pick up some savory aspects akin to porcini mushroom. Inside, there’s a wealth of high-toned red fruitiness with red currant, Craisins and pink strawberry. A dusting of cocoa in the finish makes for a silky farewell. (327 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Tsillan Cellars $30 2014 Estate Sangiovese, Lake Chelan Longtime winemaker Shane Collins works with estate vineyards that provide some of the best views in the Northwest, and he’s created a Syrah lover’s Sangiovese. Done in a riper style, the aromas speak of elderberry, blueberry and black currant with black pepper. Those same descriptors ring true on the palate, which showed darker tones than any other Sangiovese in the tasting and finished with hints of chocolate and tobacco.

These wines are ideal with meatballs served at the on-premise Sorrento’s Ristorante and with cheese such as Pecorino or Cougar Gold. They also are available at Dr. Bob Jankelson’s tasting room in Woodinville. (136 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Waterbrook Winery $38 2012 Icon Reserve Barbera, Columbia Valley Walla Walla’s John Freeman produced two of the top wines in the judging, paced by this reserve Barbera. Allowed to hang into the second week of November, this product of the Horse Heaven Hills hints at aromas of strawberry-rhubarb with rose hips, cocoa and anise. Raspberry and Bing cherry make their way to the lively palate, which finishes with a bolt of cranberry-blueberry cocktail juice.

The Icon tier represents Waterbrook’s best efforts, and these are limited to tasting room sales. (100 cases, 13.1% alc.)

Cavatappi Winery $25 2014 Red Willow & Alder Ridge Vineyards Maddalena Nebbiolo, Yakima Valley A ski trip to Italy inspired Peter Dow’s interest in the wines of Tuscany, and the founder of iconic Café Juanita in Kirkland names his Nebbiolo for his daughter. This harvest of Oct. 10 spent 22 months in neutral oak, accounting for notes of Damson plum and Montmorency cherry as the abundant acidity washes through the tannin for a pink strawberry finish. Enjoy with duck breast or Rabbit Cacciatore. (266 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Lost River Winery $28 2014 Barbera, Horse Heaven Hills Methow Valley winemaker John Morgan has proved to be a quick study with Barbera as this marks just the second time he’s worked with Italy’s third-most popular grape. Wallula Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, just upstream from McNary Dam on the Columbia River, provided him the ingredients for aromas of blackberry, Bing cherry and sage that are spiked with orange oil and smoked pink peppercorns. Lively purple fruit

flavors akin to Marionberry, blueberry and Western serviceberry are complemented by nicely managed tannins and capped by a combination of clove and vanilla bean. (300 cases, 15.2% alc.)

Wilridge Winery $35 2014 Wilridge Vineyard Estate Barbera, Naches Heights Seattle’s oldest winery turns 30 next year, and Paul Beveridge continues to reap the rewards from the vineyard he began to establish in the Naches Heights west of Yakima back in 2007. His work with Barbera offers the youthful, high-toned red fruit one expects from Barbera, and this single barrel of wine yields aromas and flavors of red currant, Montmorency cherry and a berry pie with vanilla crust. Cinnamon powder and juicy acidity make for a zippy finish that should pair nicely with a pork chop wrapped by honey-peppered bacon. (27 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Waterbrook Winery $35 2013 Icon Reserve Sangiovese, Columbia Valley This vintage marked John Freeman’s 10th anniversary at Waterbrook, where he trained under founding winemaker Eric Rindal. The toastiness of oak gives this a Super Tuscan feel, and the experience includes a nose of blueberry jam, strawberry cream cheese, boysenberry and thyme. The wellbalanced palate offers more dark red fruit and a pleasantly long finish.(192 cases, 13.4% alc.)

Excellent Martin-Scott Winery $25 2015 Needlerock Vineyard Montepulciano, Columbia Valley Italy’s No. 2 grape has just a handful of champions in Washington state, among them grower/winemaker Mike Scott in East Wenatchee, who has two blocks of it planted at his Needlerock Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River. Enjoyable hints of sagebrush and mint join blackberry in the nose.

Black cherry and blackberry lead the flavors, which transition to blueberry skin tannins with sweet dates and chocolate from the single new French oak barrel. It brings a richer and heavier structure that bodes well for braised meats. (103 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Eleganté Cellars $36 2010 Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley The interest among Washington winemakers for Italian-inspired wines shows in the program by Doug Simmons for his Elegante Cellars. While he’s maintained Blue Mountain Vineyard as his fruit source and program of 25 percent new oak, he’s nearly tripled his production from 2010. Five years of barrel aging have helped make this an easy drink that features aromas of raspberry, lingonberry, candied apple and cinnamon, backed by juicy flavors of cranberry and pink raspberry.(57 cases, 12.6% alc.)

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Zerba Cellars $45 2013 Cockburn Vineyard Estate Nebbiolo, Walla Walla Valley Wine Press Northwest named Zerba Cellars as its Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year in 2011, and Wenatchee native Doug Nierman continues to make some of the top wines in the region using Zerba family fruit. In this case, he blends in Barbera (25%), a practice he established more than five years prior. It makes for aromas of dusty blueberry, pie cherry and cocoa powder, which turn into flavors of pink raspberry and red currants. Dusty tannins make for a nicely balanced finish to pair with lamb, beef stew or pungent cheeses. (94 cases, 14.5% alc.)

College Cellars $25 2015 La Laurelia Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley Walla Walla Community College’s Class of 2017 should have received high marks for this Seven Hills Vineyard blend of Sangiovese (90%) with Cab and Merlot. JJ Menozzi, co-owner/co-winemaker of Aluvé Winery, and his classmates brought these berries to campus on Sept. 14. It’s a rather sturdy approach with black cherry, raspberry, pomegranate and hibiscus notes that offer a rewarding finish. (70 cases, 14.9% alc.)

Delfino Vineyards $27 2015 Dolcetto, Umpqua Valley Jim and Terri Delfino moved to Southern Oregon from the Bay Area in 2001, and they’ve devoted sections of their vineyard to Italian varieties. That selection includes Dolcetto, which they present to patrons as their reply to requests for Pinot Noir. It comes with a nose of Rainier cherry, blueberry, orange and cedar, and follows that up with round and soft flavors of black currant and chocolatecovered blueberries, backed by a delightful burst of pomegranate juice. They suggest serving it with antipasto, hors d’oeuvres or pungent cheeses. (120 cases, 13.6% alc.)

Best Buy! Jones of Washington $15 2012 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley One of the largest productions of Sangiovese in the Northwest also ranks as the most affordable wine in the tasting, and it’s still got muscle on its bones. An offering that is lighter in appearance, it comes loaded with dried blueberry, pomegranate and cocoa powder. A squirt of clementine finishes it with a flourish. (964 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Martin-Scott Winery $24 2014 Needlerock Vineyard Montepulciano, Columbia Valley Mike Scott has been slowly growing his program with Montepulciano by a barrel in each of the past three years. This takes on a darker tone with its theme of macerated plum and fig with dates and black cherry skins in the finish. Suggested pairings include roasted herbed chicken, gyros or couscous.

(75 cases, 15.2% alc.)

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Zerba Cellars $36 2014 Cockburn Vineyard Estate Dolcetto, Walla Walla Valley The Zerbas grow and bottle three Piedmont varieties for their tasting room visitors in the Walla Walla Valley, Woodinville and the Willamette Valley, and this year they harvested the Dolcetto on Oct. 14. It’s produced in a way that’s ready to drink soon upon release, and that shows in the fanciful aromas of black cherry and blueberry with peppermint and forest floor. Sweet blue fruit flavors mix with sandy tannins and a finish of vanilla extract. (162 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Cave B Estate Winery $33 2014 Cave B Vineyards Sangiovese, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Freddy Arredondo, a product of Walla Walla Community College’s renowned winemaking school, has the opportunity to work with estate fruit near the Gorge Amphitheater. As a result, he presents this as a 100 percent varietal bottling. Its lighter color carries a fascinating theme of cherries and Christmas spices with smoke and leather. The balance of tannins and acidity make this particularly delicious. (187 cases, 14% alc.)

Wind Rose Cellars $25 2013 Primitivo, Columbia Valley This Olympic Peninsula winery makes Italian varieties its focus, and this is a blend of Primitivo from prized StoneTree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope with Barbera (20%) from Lonesome Spring Ranch in the Yakima Valley. There’s a theme of cherry and strawberry-rhubarb with sweet hay and blood orange, backed by medium-plus tannins and finish of raspberry.(155 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Cave B Estate Winery $35 2014 Cave B Vineyards Barbera, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Before he was a winemaker, Freddy Arredondo enjoyed a culinary career that took him to Italy, where he met his future bride. When he saw his in-laws' vineyard near George, Wash., in the Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, he changed his career path. This work with 100 percent Barbera off their estate raises notions of blueberry jam on dark toast and Sanpellegrino Chinotto. There’s elegance and richness to the structure that finishes with pie cherries and chocolate.(193 cases, 14% alc.)

Covington Cellars $27 2014 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Woodinville winemaker Morgan Lee has become a cult producer with his own Two Vintners brand, but the Purdue grad doesn’t lose sight of his work for David and Cindy Lawson. They view Sangiovese as one of their two flagship wines, and the dedication is obvious, starting with this purchase from Boushey and Seven Hills vineyards. Twenty months in 20 percent new French oak gives birth to charming florals of rose petal, plum, pomegranate and earthiness, and there’s a nice balance to the barrel, fruit and acidity on the palate. Dark

tones of elderberry, Western serviceberry and sweet blueberry lead to a finish of Baker’s chocolate and cocoa powder. (250 cases, 14.3% alc.)

Best Buy! Jones of Washington $15 2013 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley The talented Victor Palencia uses a fair bit of Syrah (13%) with the Sangiovese that the Jones family farmed at its Unit 9 Vineyard, a site established on the Wahluke Slope in 1997. The nose of plum, pomegranate and citrus zest sets the table for flavors of boysenberry pie, framed by sandy tannins. Look for these wines in grocery stores or at the fun and inviting Jones of Washington tasting room at Pybus Market in downtown Wenatchee.

(703 cases, 15.1% alc.)

Waterbrook Winery $35 2012 Icon Reserve Zinfandel, Horse Heaven Hills Much of John Freeman’s work at Waterbrook goes to his acclaimed program with Bordeaux varieties, but he seems to also enjoy crafting the three Italian varieties for this tasting room-only lineup out of the Horse Heaven Hills. Beautiful aromas of blueberry, black currant and white chocolate funnel into dense flavors of blueberry and plum, backed by juicy acidity, well-managed tannins and white pepper. (250 cases, 13.9% alc.)

Wind Rose Cellars $19 2014 Dolcetto, Yakima Valley Dolcetto is one of six standalone varietal bottlings

by David Volmut, a product of the Yakima Valley College winemaking program. His source for Dolcetto is Lonesome Spring Ranch, and he makes it using whole-berry fermentation and without any oak barrels. That shows in the dense nose of blueberry taffy and thyme, followed by bold and rich blue fruit which is met by slightly chalky tannins. (150 cases, 14.6% alc.)

Harbinger Winery $30 2011 Elephant Mountain Vineyards Sangiovese, Washington Port Angeles winemaker Sara Gagnon shows skill with this Sangiovese from a cool vintage, thanks in part to the farming at Joel Hattrup’s marvelous high-elevation site in the Rattlesnake Hills. Her cool fermentation over 12 days, use of 30 percent new oak for 20 months and small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon build notes of toast, nutmeg and ground savory among the cranberry and blueberry flavors that stand out because of the balanced tannin structure. (170 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Helix by Reininger $30 2012 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sangiovese, Columbia Valley One of Washington’s most balanced and classic vintages of the 21st century is exemplified in this four-barrel project by Chuck Reininger. In the glass, it sits with a beautiful dark cherry color and fans out enticing aromas of currant, cranberry, raspberry and Ovaltine powder - a sign of the two years in neutral French oak. There’s spunk and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

italian reds F EATURE succulence to the palate as blackberry and cranberry mingle with sweetened blueberries, offering spot-on acidity and pleasing drinkability. Success with this bottling inspired him to more than double his order from Tom Alberg’s farm the following year.(99 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Paul O'Brien Winery $45 2014 Sangiovese, Southern Oregon Scott O’Brien Kelley took the lead on the Sangiovese project under the roof he shares with Dyson Paul Demara at Roseburg’s first urban winery.

These two pals from their days at Mondavi chose to start this Sangiovese in open-top concrete fermenters before moving it all into French oak, a program that was 30% new wood. Dusty blueberry, plum and brown sugar aromas include a dash of white pepper. It’s still quite youthful and juicy as it revisits those same purple fruits in its flavors.

There’s plenty of potential and complexity yet to be realized, but they suggest serving it in the meantime with braised meats and crusty bread.

(120 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Wind Rose Cellars $33 2014 Omaggio Barbera, Red Mountain Barbera has been David Volmut’s most soughtafter red, and Red Heaven Vineyard on Red Mountain has been a cornerstone of his success with this grape that calls Northern Italy its home.

Half of this fruit underwent whole-cluster fermentation, and it all spent 28 months in a mix of French and American oak. Dusty red cherry, ground savory and dark toast aromas lead to flavors of Montmorency cherry and cranberry, which are surrounded by sandy tannins and racy acidity. Red Heaven transitioned these vines over to Cabernet Sauvignon, so the Omaggio — Italian for “homage,” will be shifting. (125 cases, 15% alc.)

West town of Winthrop, Wash., draws from historic Rosebud Vineyard near Mattawa for its Nebbiolo. The lovely nose of sweet strawberry tea and blood orange leads to flavors of Raspberry Zinger tea and pomegranate. (175 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Roland Wines $30 2015 Les Vignes de Marcoux Dolcetto, Yakima Valley When we staged our first tasting of Pacific Northwest work with Italian red varieties four years ago, Marc Roland produced a superb Dolcetto from grower Mike Sauer of Red Willow fame. The longtime educator in the Kelso, Wash., School District displays consistency with this offering from the same vineyard. It begins with aromas of blueberry, black cherry, rosemary and moist earth.

Inside, it’s akin to a berry compote with rewarding acidity highlighted by pomegranate and blueberry.

(60 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Whidbey Island Winery $22 2015 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, Elephant Mountain in the Rattlesnake Hills and Crawford Vineyard in the Yakima Valley combine for aromas and flavors of sweet blueberry, cocoa powder, rose petal and woodruff, backed by chalk in the finish. (190 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Wind Rose Cellars $28 2012 Barbera, Columbia Valley Lonesome Springs Ranch has been the go-to source for Barbera at this Olympic Peninsula winery, and this release spent 20 months in 45 percent new oak. It offers plum jam, macerated cherries and mint with a stream of pomegranate juice running through.(225 cases, 13.8% alc.)

Wind Rose Cellars $30 2012 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley It’s not easy to track down Nebbiolo grapes on the open market in Washington, but David Volmut found some in the Gilbert family’s 24K Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. After 36 months in French and Hungarian oak, the wine now shows akin to a Pinot Noir, starting with its lighter and brickish wardrobe. It follows through with notes of red currant, pink strawberry and white tea. Alas, here’s another case where vineyard owners moved on from an Italian red variety to Cabernet Sauvignon.(225 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Balboa Winery $36 2014 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Tom and Amy Glase continue to stand out in the

See | Page 36

Canoe Ridge Vineyard $35 2013 The Benches Exclusive Barbera, Horse Heaven Hills Napa-trained Bill Murray refers to historic Canoe Ridge Vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills as his home field, but here’s a limited twobarrel lot from The Benches, arguably the most dramatic vineyard in the Pacific Northwest. Ripe blueberry, plum, baking spices and toast are complemented by nicely managed and fine-grained tannins, making this among the most graceful wines of the tasting. (50 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Cavatappi Winery $20 2016 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Three of the largest vineyards in the Yakima Valley — Boushey, Canyon Ranch and Oasis — come together to produce lovely aromas of blueberry, cranberry jam, cola and rich caramel. What follows are flavors of Marionberry and blueberry juice cocktail with a blast of pomegranate. Of any wine in the tasting, this should be the easiest to track down. (3,000 cases, 13% alc.)

Lost River Winery $26 2013 Nebbiolo, Wahluke Slope This two-generation winery in the charming Old W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

8989 ne day road, bainbridge island, wa • 206-842-9463

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FE AT U RE

wine festival

Pacific Northwest Wine Festival Results

F

orty-nine wineries from Oregon and Washington served more than 150 wines to about 400 people who attended the second annual Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival on Aug. 5.

Thirty-one wines received gold medals, while six wines won double golds from the panel of five judges.

BEST IN SHOW Lost River Winery 2013 Merlot

DOUBLE GOLD Acrobat Winery 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir DeLille Cellars 2015 Metier Red Wine Lost River Winery 2013 Merlot Rotie Cellars 2016 Southern White Truth Teller Winery 2016 Frolic Viognier William Church 2014 Cabernet Franc

GOLD Acrobat Winery 2014 Pinot Noir Bonair Winery 2013 Merlot College Cellars 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Dama Wines 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon DeLille Cellars 2014 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon DeLille Cellars D2 Red Wine Edward Lynne 2015 Merbec Eternal Wines 2016 Perspective Grenache Blanc Gravel Bar 2014 Alluvial Red Blend Hudson Shah 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon J Bookwalter 2014 Merlot Jones of Washington 2015 Riesling King Estate 2014 Pinot Noir Lost River Winery 2013 Syrah Lost River Winery 2015 Rain Shadow Love That Red 2014 Dead Heat Syrah Maryhill Winery 2013 Marvell GSM Maryhill Winery 2014 Proprietors Reserve Grenache Mercer Estates 2015 Red Blend Portlandia Vintners 2016 Rosé Proper Wines 2014 Estate Syrah Robert Ramsay Cellars 2014 Counoise Rotie Cellars 2015 Northern Blend Syrah Rotie Cellars 2015 Southern Blend GSM San Juan Vineyards 2016 South Beach Red Structure Cellars 2015 Cabernet Franc Thurston Wolfe 2014 Malbec 34

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Thurston Wolfe 2014 Petit Sirah Two Mountain Winery 2016 Riesling Vartanyan Estate Winery 2014 Carmenere William Church Winery 2014 Syrah

SILVER Acrobat Winery 2015 Chardonnay Bellingar Estates 2014 Pinot Noir Bellingar Estates 2016 Chardonnay Bonair Winery 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Bonair Winery 2016 Chardonnay Coach House Cellars 2013 Merlot Coach House Cellars 2013 Syrah College Cellars 2015 GSM Red Wine College Cellars 2016 Scholarship White Dama Wines 2012 Damanation GSM Drink Washington State 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Drink Washington State 2014 Carmenere Drink Washington State 2015 Red Wine Blend

Dynasty Cellars 2013 Merlot Edward Lynne 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Edward Lynne 2015 Malbec Eternal Wines 2014 Patience Roussanne Eternal Wines 2015 Rocketman Red Blend Eternal Wines 2015 Darkness Syrah Eternal Wines 2015 Heritage Syrah For A Song 2014 Syrah For A Song 2015 Chardonnay Gravel Bar 2015 Dry Riesling J Bookwalter 2013 Protagonist Cabernet Sauvignon Jones of Washington 2012 Barrel Select Red Jones of Washington 2012 Jacks Reserve Cab Sauvignon King Estate 2015 Pinot Gris Lagana Cellars 2014 Syrah Lost River Winery 2013 Massif Love That Red 2014 Daily Double Blend

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Love That Red Stakes Race 2014 Syrah Masquerade Wine Co. 2015 Pinot Noir Masquerade Wine Co. 2015 Red Dessert Wine Masquerade Wine Co. Sparkling Lemberger Masquerade Wine Co. Summer of Love Sparkling RosĂŠ Mercer Estates 2015 Malbec Mercer Estates 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Mt. Baker Vineyards 2015 Madeleine Angevine North by Northwest 2014 Red Blend North by Northwest 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon North by Northwest 2014 Riesling Portlandia 2014 Momtazi Pinot Noir Portlandia Vintners 2015 Pinot Gris R. Stuart 2014 Big Fire Pinot Noir R. Stuart 2014 Love Oregon Pinot Noir Revelry Vintners 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Revelry Vintners 2014 Range Grenache/ Syrah Revelry Vintners 2016 Chardonnay Revelry Vintners 2014 Merlot Robert Ramsay Cellars 2014 Mourvedre San Juan Vineyards 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon San Juan Vineyards 2016 Madeleine Angevine San Juan Vineyards 2016 Pinot Gris San Juan Vineyards 2016 Siegerrebe Structure Cellars 2015 Syrah Structure Cellars 2016 Roussanne Structure Cellars 2016 Viognier Thurston Wolfe 2013 The Teacher Cabernet Sauvignon Thurston Wolfe 2013 Zinfandel Thurston Wolfe 2015 Dr. Wolfe's Red Thurston Wolfe 2016 PGV Truth Teller Winery 2014 Satire Red Truth Teller Winery 2014 Wisdom Red Blend Truth Teller Winery 2016 Stand Up Chardonnay Two Mountain Winery 2014 Cabernet Franc Reserve Two Mountain Winery 2014 Merlot Van Arnam Vineyards 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Van Arnam Vineyards 2014 Melange Van Arnam Vineyards 2015 Riesling William Church Winery 2015 Viognier

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TA ST I NG RESU LT S

italian reds

From page 33

crowded Walla Walla Valley wine industry, and recent developments include merging the Beresan brand within their portfolio and promoting Tyler Grennan to head winemaker.

He and Tom collaborated on the four barrels from famed Pepper Bridge, and it’s redolent of Craisins and blueberry jam, supported by sinewy plum skin tannins, penetrating red currant acidity and a finish of orange zest.(98 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Kiona Vineyards and Winery $25 2013 Estate Sangiovese, Red Mountain As much buzz as there is about Cab being king on Red Mountain, the Williams clan loves to show off the versatility found among their 300 acres of vines across the Washington wine industry’s most coveted real estate.

Scott Williams and Tristan Butterfield share the winemaking credit for this yummy Sangiovese, which brings hints of orange marmalade, ripe red currant and toast. Tannins merely add a bit of bite to the structure that trails off with a flow of cranberries and pomegranate.(328 cases, 14.5% alc.)

Seven of Hearts $35 2014 Nebbiolo, Columbia Valley Willamette Valley producer Byron Dooley, an invited winemaker to the exclusive 2017 International Pinot Noir Celebration, is no stranger to the north side of the Columbia River as a result of his broad spectrum of interest. This work with Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills is particularly fascinating considering that Nebbiolo has been likened to Italy’s answer to Pinot Noir. First, there’s the classic telltale hint of HHH dust, followed by strawberry jam and raspberry compote aromas. And there’s no disappointment to the palate, which offers approachable acidity and a more modest tannin structure than many others in this tasting.

(147 cases, 13.2% alc.)

Woodward Canyon $29 2014 Estate Barbera, Walla Walla Valley Kevin Mott has been working with Barbera longer than most winemakers in Washington state, and founding winemaker Rick Small has been growing it on his Salmon Safe, 36

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multi-generation farm for nearly 20 years.

Their intriguing oak program, while dominated by 500-liter Italian barrels, also includes new French chateau wood. As result, there’s an alluring theme of Graham cracker and Weetabix that leads to cherry cobbler, refined tannins and mouth-filling black currant juice. (440 cases, 14.6% alc.)

raised this Primitivo in the Horse Heaven Hills for Whidbey Island winemaker Greg Osenbach. There’s enchanting barrel notes of nutmeg and NECCO Wafer candy with black currant and white pepper, making for a spicy, toasty and robust example of Primitivo.

(125 cases, 14.4% alc.)

Spangler Vineyards $28 2013 Sangiovese, Oregon Italian varieties fit nicely into Patrick Spangler’s portfolio of bright, food-friendly and age-worthy wines. His expression with Sangiovese presents engaging aromatics and flavors of blackberry, black cherry, vanilla and baking spices. Cranberry acidity stays just ahead of the firm tannins that will play deliciously with braised meats, sausages or a slab of lasagna. (257 cases, 13.5% alc.)

Zerba Cellars $36 2014 Cockburn Vineyard Estate Barbera, Walla Walla Valley This Milton-Freewater, Ore., winery balances out the Barbera, harvested Oct. 14, with a significant amount of Sangiovese (25%) for a pleasing drink of blueberry, elderberry and plum that’s offers accents of cocoa powder, toast, chalk and Italian herbs. Suggested pairings include tomato-based dishes, lamb or chocolate with lavender.(90 cases, 14.2% alc.)

Whidbey Island Winery $27 2014 Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills One of Washington state’s top growers, Mike Andrews of Coyote Canyon Vineyards,

Zerba Cellars $36 2013 Cockburn Vineyard Estate Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley Doug Nierman actually takes a Côte-Rôtie

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italian reds F EATURE approach with the Sangiovese from Jon Cockburn Ranch, co-fermenting the Sangiovese (81%) and Barbera (13%) with Syrah (4%) and Viognier. One hint is in the orange oil aromatics that come with the fresh-picked blueberry, earthiness and cedar notes. The result is a nicely balanced and rather rich expression, offering flavors of blueberry, dark chocolate, vanilla and raspberry. (162 cases, 14.8% alc.)

Highway 12 near the airport, in his honor. A trio of students — Rocky Gipson, now at Browne Family Vineyards, Vince Hewett and Elijah Shields — took their Barbera in from the vineyard on Oct. 5. It’s remarkably fresh and fruity, akin to a Beaujolais Nouveau, exhibiting blueberry, black currant and elderberry, backed by stellar tannin management. The package, capped by toast and chocolate, makes this quite a quaffer. (60 cases, 14.5% alc.)

College Cellars $20 2015 Anderson Vineyard Barbera, Walla Wilridge Winery $35 2014 Wilridge Vineyard Estate SangioWalla Valley vese, Naches Heights Myles Anderson of Walla Walla Vintners There’s a single acre of Sangiovese planted fame created the winemaking program at Walla Walla Community College, and the school named this vineyard, a stone’s throw from

at Wilridge Vineyard, and it’s split between the Brunello clone and the Piccolo clone.

Paul Beveridge produces this in a darker theme with aromas of black plum, fig, gaminess and potting soil, followed by juicy flavors of boysenberry and pomegranate. A touch of sweetness from dried blueberries in the finish adds to its charm. These wines are available in the tasting room at his “recreational vineyard” west of Yakima, The Tasting Room at Pike Place Market and at Sky River Meadery’s tasting room near the Hollywood School District in Woodinville. (79 cases, 13.7% alc.)

Red Italian Varieties

I TA L I A N R E D S

BY T HE N UM B E R S Here’s a look at the numbers behind the wines tasted for this article. ❧ Total wines judged: 67 ❧ Percentage of "Outstanding" wines: 30 ❧ Percentage of "Excellent" wines: 51 ❧ Percentage of "Recommended" wines: 8 ❧ Barbera entries: 12 ❧ Dolcetto entries: 8 ❧ Montepulciano entries: 2 ❧ Nebbiolo entries: 7 ❧ Primitivo entries: 4 ❧ Sagrantino entries: 1 ❧ Sangiovese entries: 30 ❧ Zinfandel entries: 3 ❧ Average price: $29 ❧ Average alcohol: 14.1% ❧ Total cases represented: 15,130 ❧ AVAs represented: 16 ❧ Wines by AVA: Columbia Valley (20), Walla Walla Valley (13), Yakima Valley (8), Naches Heights (5), Horse Heaven Hills (4), Red Mountain (3), Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley (2), Oregon (2), Umpqua Valley (2), Wahluke Slope (2), Lake Chelan (1), Rattlesnake Hills (1), Snake River Valley (1), Southern Oregon (1), Washington (1), Willamette Valley (1).

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Several red Italian varieties were tasted during this judging. Here is a primer on each: Barbera: Grown primarily in the Piedmont region in northwestern Italy, Barbera is one of the most-planted grapes in that country. It is known for its vigorous vine and high-acid wines.

Dolcetto: Another Piedmont grape, Dolcetto produces wines meant for everyday enjoyment.

Montepulciano: The second-most-planted red Italian grape after Sangiovese, Montepulciano is actually quite rare outside of Italy. It has no relation to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a Tuscan wine made from Sangiovese.

Nebbiolo: Nebbiolo is considered one of the finest and most noble grape varieties in the world. It is grown in Piedmont and is used to make the highly sought-after and expensive wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. It is known for its light color and intense tannins.

Primitivo: Long thought to be identical to Zinfandel, this grape actually is a clone of the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski. It can make wines that are powerful and rich.

Sangiovese: The most-planted red grape in Italy is most famous in Chianti (the region and the wine) and greater Tuscany, where it is the primary grape for Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. It is known for its racy acidity and red fruit.

Sagrantino: Some of the lore surrounding Sagrantino includes St. Francis of Assisi bringing it from the Middle East, and its name translates to "sacred wine." However, this massively tannic grape has a history in Umbria as a blender for Sangiovese or made into a sweet wine prized by the Vatican.

Zinfandel: Zinfandel was favored by early Italian immigrants to America. It is a clone of the Croatian grape Crljenak Kaštelanski. It is heavily planted in California, where it makes sweet blushes as well as serious reds.

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NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS September 8 Auburn Art Walk and Wine Tasting, Auburn, Wash.

Auburn’s historic downtown comes alive as wine, music and local artists are featured among downtown businesses. Go to auburnartwalk.com.

8 Mercer Island Uncorked, Mercer Island, Wash. Ten regional wineries will pour alongside artists at the Mercer Island Outdoor Sculpture Gallery. Go to mercerislandchamber.com.

9 Washington Artisan Cheese Festival, Seattle. There are nearly 70 cheesemakers in the state, and Washington wineries will be supporting the festival. Go to washingtonartisancheese.com.

9 Leavenworth Fall Wine Walk, Leavenworth, Wash.

The Bavarian-themed mountain community offers tastings at more than 20 locations, paired with cheeses. Go to leavenworth.org.

9 Carlton Crush Harvest Festival, Carlton, Ore. This family-style event staged by Ken Wright Cellars features local wines, live music and fun in Upper Park. Go to carltoncrush.com.

9-10 Umpqua Wine Your Way Tour, Roseburg, Ore. Enjoy a self-guided tour starting at one of seven wineries and visits as many of the participating 17 wineries involved. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org.

14-17 Feast Portland. Bon Appétit magazine’s fifth annual celebration of Oregon food includes more than 30 Northwest wineries and benefits hunger prevention. Go to feastportland.com.

23 Eagle Food and Wine Festival, Eagle, Idaho. A dozen Snake River Valley wineries meet at BanBury Golf Course for the 11th anniversary to benefit Special Olympics and the Eagle Food Bank. Go to eaglefoodandwinefestival.com.

23-24 Oregon Grape Stomp Championships and Harvest Celebration, Turner. Willamette Valley Vineyards plays host to the 27th annual competition, which sends the winner to the world championship in California. Go to wvv.com.

made from lesser-known German varieties. Go to theclorecenter.org.

28 Ephrata Wine and Art Walk, Ephrata, Wash. The Ephrata Chamber of Commerce stages a downtown art walk with local artists and regional wineries. Go to ephratawachamber.com.

November 3-5 Walla Walla Fall Release Weekend. The Walla Walla Valley comes alive with new releases, winemaker dinners, live music and art festivals. Go to wallawallawine.com.

9 Sippin’ in the City, Boise. Gem State wineries meet for sixth annual food-and-wine festival at the Eighth and Main Building.

Go to sippininthecity.com.

10 Women, Wine and Shoes, Seattle. A number of regional wineries join this fashion show at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel to benefit Olive Crest Seattle. Go to winewomenandshoes.com.

10 Epicurean Delight, Spokane. This 36th annual gala gathers 14 wineries and 29 restaurants at the Spokane Convention Center to benefit the Inland Northwest Blood Center. Go to epicureandelight.org.

10-11 ¡Salud! Dundee and Portland. The 26th annual Pinot Noir auction benefits Oregon’s vineyard workers and their families. Go to saludauction.org.

11 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Kennewick, Wash. The 38th annual tasting returns to the Three Rivers Convention Center. Go to tricitieswinesociety.com.

11 Northwest Wine & Food Festival, Portland. This 12th annual event moves to the Oregon Convention Center. Go to nwwinefestival.com.

11 Holiday Open House and Wine Walk, Wenatchee, Wash. The Wenatchee Chamber of Commerce stages a downtown art walk with local artists and regional wineries. Go to wendowntown.org.

October

11-12 Harvest Wine & Cider Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The Olympic Peninsula Wineries’ annual fall touring event includes nine wineries. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

6-8 Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival, Port Angeles, Wash. Ten wineries will gather to pour and toast the famous indigenous crab for the 16th year. Go to crabfestival.org.

18 Skagit Wine & Beer Festival, Mount Vernon, Wash.

Skagit County wineries will be featured at Eaglemount Golf Course. Go to mountvernonchamber.com.

7 Uncork the Night, Bellevue, Wash. Many of Washington’s top sommeliers gather to assist this benefit for Bellevue Life Spring. Go to bellevuelifespring.org.

24-26 Holiday Wine Festival, Spokane. The 30th annual weekend of wine, art and food staged the weekend before Thanksgiving. Go to spokanewineries.net.

7-8, 14-15 Lake Chelan Crush, Lake Chelan, Wash.

Experience two weekends of harvest in one of the state’s youngest appellations. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

24-26 Thanksgiving in Wine Country, Yakima Valley, Wash. Tour Washington’s oldest wine region. Visit wineyakimavalley.org.

13 Wish Ball, Portland. Portland Art Museum assists Make-AWish Foundation Oregon and Clark County. Go to oregon.wish.org.

24-26 Wine Country Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley, Ore. More than 150 wineries of the Willamette Valley celebrate the holidays. Go to willamettewines.com.

14 A Toast of Life, Seattle. The ninth annual Seattle Hope Gala at Seattle Design Center features more than a dozen Northwest wineries in support of the American Cancer Society. Go to seattlehopegala.org.

24-26 Lake Chelan Fall Barrel Tasting, Chelan, Wash.

Get a peek at future releases from the state’s 11th American Viticultural Area. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.

14-15 Catch the Crush, Yakima, Prosser, Tri-Cities.

Harvest celebrations span Yakima, Zillah, Prosser and the TriCities. Go to wineyakimavalley.org.

December

28 Lemtoberfest, Prosser, Wash. The Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center is launching this event featuring Northwest wines 38

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

1-3 Holiday Barrel Tasting, Walla Walla, Wash. Enjoy a weekend visiting the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley. Go to wallawallawine.com.

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MATCH MAKER S

MYSTIC CAFÉ

CASTS SPOTLIGHT ON LEWIS-CLARK VALLEY WINE INDUSTRY // STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN, PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

Mystic Cafe in downtown Lewiston, Idaho, offers an extensive list of Snake River area wines to accompany entrees from halibut to lamb.

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L

EWISTON, Idaho — Were it not for Prohibition, the blended river community of Lewiston, Idaho, and Clarkston, Wash., would be well beyond its folksy status as “an emerging wine region.”

However, the history of wine production in the Lewis-Clark Valley now is making its way back into the public eye. By the end of the 19th century, this area was home to the first large-scale wine industry in the Pacific Northwest when Robert Schleicher, a Frenchman, established a 130-acre vineyard.

That equates to about 40,000 cases of wine, which today would make it the secondlargest winery in Idaho and well beyond the size of the average Washington winery.

“People love learning about the history of the valley,” said Sara Wilson, the homegrown certified sommelier, executive chef and general manager at Mystic Cafe in downtown Lewiston.

These days, wineries in this valley enjoy growing support from restaurants on both sides of the Snake River. Leading the way is Happy Day Corp., the largest restaurant group in the region, and specifically Mystic Café, the new and eclectic gem in the portfolio of longtime restaurateurs Bruce and Joy Finch.

“I make sure that everyone is represented,” Wilson said. “Every winery has at least one wine on the list.”

The Lewis-Clark Valley Wine Alliance counts nine wineries and 16 vineyards, and Wilson, who occasionally dons her sommelier lapel pin, has seen a change as a result of the work done by Coco Umiker of Clearwater Canyon Cellars and Melissa Sanborn of Colter’s Creek Winery.

“With people like Coco and Melissa leading the way and getting more people to learn about this area, that will help a lot,” Wilson said. “And what has also helped us is that there is better wine that is being grown and made here. I’ve seen the valley’s palate get more sophisticated.

“When I first moved back home, there were a lot of whites and sweet Riesling, which is fine, but now guests know more about grapes like Carménère and Malbec,” she added. “The Cabs are getting better, and the Chardonnay is not always buttery. That has been really great to see.”

Wilson, Lewiston High class of ’05, began working for Happy Day when she was 16.

“My brother and I were raised as athletes, so if we weren’t playing a sport, our parents told us we had to have a job,” Wilson said.

“I played volleyball and softball, but I was not very good at basketball, so that’s when I started working in restaurants.”

WINEPRESS N W. COM

General Manager Sara Wilson, a certified sommelier and executive chef, with lead cook Scott Moore.

Upon graduation, she got accepted into Boise State University’s culinary program.

One of her neighbors ended up being a mentor — executive chef Frank Burns during his days at Flatbread Community Oven.

Her ah-hah moment with wine came as an upperclassman when she tasted a Riesling

by Snake River Valley producer Koenig Vineyards. It proved to be an important moment in her life.

“I was 21,” Wilson said. “It was at the end of culinary school, and there was a beverage management class, so I took it. It was the first time that I’d ever aced every test.

Everything kind of clicked for me.”

That inspired her to move temporarily to the Bay Area and enroll in the International Culinary Center’s Intensive Sommelier Training.

“I asked a friend down there if I could stay on her couch for five months, and I commuted two hours every day,” Wilson said. “There were three to five Master Sommeliers who would come in and teach. I got certified Level 1 and Level 2 on back-toback days. It was intense.”

But it was 2009, and the Great Recession was leaving its wake across the Boise restaurant scene, so she went home to Lewiston, returned to work for the Finches, and started tending bar at their lively Tomato Bros. restaurant. She quickly became bar manager and met her future husband in her bar. Joe has got her fishing every Sunday, and she occasionally drags him along on food and wine adventures.

“He's a farm kid who drinks roomtemperature Keystone Light, but my jaw dropped when we were at Maryhill Winery, he took a sniff of red wine and said he smelled fig,” she said. “He's got an excellent

palate and a great taste for fine wine.”

A stone’s throw from the railroad tracks, the Clearwater River and the urban segment of Highway 12, the layers of reddish-brown brick that provide a charming greeting at Mystic Café could tell some history, too.

Morgan Brothers Coffee Roasters began at 1303 Main St. in 1926, expanding a decade later. Today, ownership of the building remains in the Morgan family, and it retains many of the features from nearly a century ago including the original hardwood floors and a coffee roaster dating to 1910. A cleverly modified steampunk piping fixture now is used for Wilson’s beer tap system.

There’s far more to Happy Day than Mystic, and the beginning was humble.

Bruce Finch started off as a teacher in Oregon but quickly became disillusioned.

He soon found an opportunity to open a Taco Time restaurant in Lewiston and never looked back. The Finches have grown Happy Day Corp. to 13 restaurants, five of which are independents. Last year, the company was inducted into the Idaho Hall of Fame, and it employs more than 400.

In January 2012, Happy Day restaurants began to honor veterans by offering them a free lunch on the second Tuesday of each month. Since then they have served more than 70,000 meals to veterans, averaging over 1,000 a month, since launching the feel-good program.

And after a slow start, business is booming for Mystic Cafe, where locals now embrace Wilson’s rosemary French fries and her Wicked Grilled Cheese Sandwich with bacon and jalapeños.

The need to expand prompted the Finches to buy the adjacent brick building. Happy Day has begun to cater events at wineries, Fa l l 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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MATCH MAKER S

Clearwater Canyon Cellars $15 2016 Lochsa Chardonnay, Lewis-Clark Valley — 310 cases, 12.5% alcohol LEWISTON, Idaho — Myriad factors led Karl and Coco Umiker to last year move their winery from the Port of Lewiston near the Clearwater River up to their certified Idaho Century Farm in the Lewiston Orchards.

And while it’s no easy task to improve on her award-winning work with Carménère, Merlot, Petite Sirah and decorated Selway Red Blend, Coco is especially excited about the results she’s achieving with white wines made in her new vinifcation facility.

The 2016 Lochsa Chardonnay reflects that renewed passion, and it’s because she now can make that wine closer to the style that she and her viticulturist husband long have wanted.

“We didn’t have a temperature control system before, so I had to make the wine in a barrel-fermented style and in smaller lots to keep the fermentation temperatures down,” she said. “In my heart, I was always wanting

to make this bright, aromatic stainless-steel Chardonnay, but I couldn’t do it because I didn’t have the system in place to do it. It was frustrating, and it’s our third-highest production wine.”

Their new winery features a glycol system that ensures the temperature of fermenting white wines is dialed in, allowing Coco to develop her precise and aromatic blend of Chardonnay (77%) with Riesling (9%), Viognier (7%), Pinot Gris (3%) Gewürztraminer (3%) and three varieties of charming Muscat.

It’s a significantly better wine than the first barrel-aged white she made in 2006. A decade later, she’s safeguarding her Lochsa in jacketed tanks for five months before bottling.

“Every year, It has had at least some oak,” she said. “Last year, it was entirely stainlesssteel fermented.”

That control also allowed her to bring in the fruit exactly when she wanted, starting Aug. 29 and ending Sept. 9 at an average of 21 Brix.

“I love the bright fruit aromatics in the wine, and harvesting earlier made it zippy and bright and lower in sugar,” she said.

“There’s still some weight to it, but there’s that fruit dancing around.”

And now it allows the Umikers to make a clear distinction between the Lochsa and the Coco’s Reserve Estate Chardonnay, a club wine with a significant amount of new oak and rich mouth feel to match.

“It’s been the best-received Lochsa we’ve ever done,” she said.

The story of where the fruit comes from also is easier to tell, which makes the Lochsa a brisk seller. Prior to May 20, 2016, the federal government required the Umikers to list the American Viticultural Area on the Lochsa label as “Idaho/Washington.”

Now, Clearwater Canyon can use “Lewis-Clark Valley” on the label because Umiker Vineyard in Lewiston and Arnett Vineyard in Clarkston are both within the AVA they helped establish.

“Oh my god, what a mess on the label that was,” she said. “I wasted so much breath and energy explaining to people that the Lochsa was really a Lewis-Clark Valley wine.”

winemaker at Colter’s Creek Winery. “And Mystic has always been supportive Colter’s Creek and Lewis-Clark Valley wines.”

For this Match Maker project, Wilson and lead cook Scott Moore worked with

the Colter’s Creek 2014 Arrow Rim GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre blend) and Clearwater Canyon Cellars 2016 Lochsa Chardonnay. The Umikers’ Chardonnay is made only with grapes from the Lewis-

Clearwater Canyon Cellars 3143 10th St., Lewiston, ID 83501 clearwatercanyoncellars.com, (208) 816-4679.

Lead cook Scott Moore prepares rack of lamb

and Wilson looks forward to launching winemaker dinners in the new space and judging more regional wine competitions.

“Happy Day has been a great supporter of all of us,” said Jon Harding, assistant 48

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Parmesan Crusted Halibut with Parmesan Risotto, Asparagus and Lemon Beurre Blanc Serves 2

Parmesan Risotto Ingredients 1 cup Arborio rice (or short-grained white rice) 2 cup chicken stock (heated) 1/2 medium white onion, diced 1/4 pound butter 2/3 cup dry white wine 1 ounce shredded Parmesan 1/2 bunch fresh parsley 2 ounces heavy cream Directions 1. Saute onion in butter. Add dry rice and stir to coat 2. Briefly cook, but do not brown.

3. Add wine and stir until fully absorbed.

4. Ladle some hot chicken stock into the rice, stirring until fully absorbed.

5. When appearance is nearly dry, add more stock. Continue stirring and add until stock is gone, about 20-30 minutes.

6. Finish by adding Parmesan, parsley and heavy cream.

Directions 1. Add Parmesan to panko. Blend in a food processor to create a fine crust.

2. Bread the halibut by dusting in the flour, then dip in the egg wash, then coat in the Parmesan/panko mix.

3. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Heat a saute pan to medium high. Add clarified butter.

5. Pan-sear both sides of the halibut until golden brown.

6. Place onto a baking sheet and into the oven to finish cooking, approximately 5 minutes.

Plating Create a six-ounce bed of Parmesan risotto.

Position a six-ounce halibut on the risotto.

Position six to eight spears of sautĂŠed asparagus, tossed with oil, salt and pepper Drizzle the Lemon Beurre Blanc around the edge of each plate.

Lemon Beurre Blanc Ingredients 2 tablespoons butter 2 medium shallots, minced 2 lemons, juiced and zested 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper 1 cup white wine vinegar 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons butter, save for later Directions 1. Saute shallots, lemon juice, zest and black pepper into the butter until caramelized.

2. Add white wine and vinegar on medium, and heat until reduced by half.

3. Add cream, reduce by half.

4. Stir in the remaining butter just before serving.

Parmesan Crusted Halibut Ingredients Two six-ounce boneless, skinless halibut 1 cup seasoned flour (salt and pepper) 2 eggs, whipped 1 cup panko 1/2 cup shredded Parmesan 1/4 cup clarified butter or canola oil WINEPRESS N W. COM

Parmesan-crusted halibut paired with Clearwater Canyon Chardonnay Fa l l 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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Rack of Lamb with Brussels Sprouts and Roasted Herb Potatoes Serves 2

Ingredients 1 rack of lamb, cut in half or individual pieces if preferred 1 pound of potatoes 1 tablespoon thyme 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 8 ounces Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved 2 tablespoons sun-dried tomatoes

Marinade 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 lemons, zested and juiced 6 tablespoons diced garlic 1 1/2 tablespoons dried tarragon 1 tablespoon smoked sea salt 1 tablespoon black pepper Directions for potatoes 1. Slice potatoes into fingerling size 2. Combine the thyme, rosemary, salt and pepper to taste 3. Rub 1/2 cup of EVOO over the potatoes and then mix in the dry ingredients.

4. Roast for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown.

Directions for Brussels sprouts 1. Sauté the Brussels sprouts in brown butter.

2. Season with salt and pepper and sundried tomatoes.

Directions for lamb 1. Combine the marinade ingredients, rub over the lamb and place in a bag to marinate overnight 2. Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

3. Pat lamb dry and put into oven on sheet pan.

4. Cook for 15-17 minutes or until the internal temperature reaches 130 degrees Fahrenheit.

5. Let rest for 5-10 minutes for medium rare before slicing and serving.

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Rack of lamb paird with Colter’s Creek GSM.

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MATCH MAKER S Colter’s Creek Winery $30 2014 Arrow Rim GSM Red Wine, Idaho — 274 cases, 14.6% alcohol

Wilson fills a beer stein from their custom steam pipe beer tap.

Clark Valley, and it’s on tap at Mystic. The crisp and lemony approach with the Chardonnay complemented the halibut, cut through the Lemon Buerre Blanc sauce and even worked with the wine-finicky asparagus.

“I drink the Lochsa a lot, and this one is different because Coco did a lot more Chardonnay than usual,” Wilson said. “This is more of a people-friendly wine, and the crusted halibut seemed like a great fit.”

Colter’s Creek has earned its placement on Wilson’s list with its acclaimed work in blending Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre.

“I know the GSM is more of a gamier blend, so I went with the rack of lamb to go with that,” Wilson said.

Aromas of blackberry, black currant and plum include some gaminess and spice from the French oak. Those carry through to the smooth tannins and vibrant pomegranate acidity on palate, which shows off a dash of black pepper.

Harding said, “At Mystic, hands-down I’d have the Lamb Burger with the Arrow Rim.” One is casual while the other is more classic, but with Wilson’s classic training and hometown sensibilities, you can’t go wrong.

Mystic Café, 1303 Main St, Lewiston, ID 83501, themysticcafe.com, (208) 743-1811.

ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

The red wine grapes native to France’s Rhône Valley rank among the hottest categories on the West Coast and beyond, yet their potential in Idaho is particularly fascinating. They can shine in the high-elevation vineyards of southern Idaho, but they thrive nearer to the Panhandle in the historic Lewis-Clark Valley.

Work with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre has helped make stars of the wife-husband team of Melissa Sanborn and Mike Pearson at Colter’s Creek Winery.

And they’ve sparked life in the tiny town of Juliaetta, population 579.

“People thought we were crazy, and a lot of time we thought we were crazy,” Pearson said. “How are we going to survive in a little tasting room in this tiny town where, frankly, most people drink Bud Light?”

It began in 2007 when Sanborn, a chemist out of Washington State University who studied winemaking, and Pearson, an engineer from the University of Idaho, spotted a derelict vineyard overlooking the Potlatch River. They bought the property downstream from Juliaetta and named their winery as a tribute to John Colter, a member of Lewis & Clark’s Corps of Discovery.

Their GSM blend takes its name from Arrow Rim Road, the narrow, treacherous and private gravel road that tops out at around 1,200 feet elevation and leads to their riverside production facility.

The Arrow Rim Red carries a pedigree, too. Sanborn’s work with her 2013 GSM earned her Best Idaho Wine at the 2015 Cascadia International Wine Competition. The 2014 vintage is blend of estate Grenache (30%) and estate Mourvédre (30%), with Syrah from Snake River Valley sites Sawtooth, Skyline and Williamson.

Soon, Arrow Rim GSM can become an estate wine and read “Lewis-Clark Valley” on the label as Pearson’s Syrah comes online. He planted Grenache in 2009 and Mourvédre two years later. In 2015, he created along the Clearwater River his Arrow Junction Vineyard, a five-acre parcel devoted to Syrah.

“It’s hotter than we ever thought,” he said, pointing to the 3,400 growing degree days for the 2015 vintage, which essentially matches those of the Walla Walla Valley.

His plantings appear almost bullet-proof, unlike their traditional sources for Syrah. Those sites suffered enough winter kill in January that a number of Southern Idaho winemakers have turned to Washington growers for fruit in 2017.

Meanwhile, Colter’s Creek is researching Negroamaro, a Southern Italian red variety.

As for the Arrow Rim GSM, suggested pairings include wild game on the mild side, tomato-based pasta dishes and mushroom risotto. Pearson would know. In 2012, he transformed the century-old former pharmacy building in Juliaette into a modern tasting room with a vibrant restaurant. He’s the executive chef, and his cuisine lures folks down from Moscow, where Colter’s Creek plans to open a satellite tasting room by Thanksgiving.

Colter’s Creek Winery tasting room, 308 Main St., Juliaetta, ID 83535, colterscreek.com, (208) 276-3342.

WINEPRESS N W. COM

Fa l l 2 0 1 7 • W i n e P re s s N orthwest

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AWARDS

52

winery of the year

Wi ne Pr ess Nor t hw e s t • F a l l 2 0 1 7

W INEPRESSNW.COM

CO L U MN

grapes of roth

BY COKE ROTH

My take on the dilemma of wine and food pairing

A

hhhh, the grandeur of being a wine columnist, to write my completely biased opinion based, not on fact, but based on my opinion of the facts. This fashionable way of journalism, of course, presumes that the opinionated facts upon which I base my opinion are somewhat true — a real stretch in itself. There, now that I have cleared that up, I can move on to be the schlockmeister of the wine world my reader(s) have come to know.

My Faustian opinions in prior episodes of literary torture have partially delved into the most subjective of subjects, wine pairing. In this episode of negligent misrepresentation, I intend to convince you that the whole wine pairing thing is only meant for the author, not you, the reader.

Please believe me that I hold the utmost of respect for the well-intended that fill pages of text attempting to logically match the organoleptic nuances of food and wine. One assumes that the author actually concurrently put the subject food and the subject wine into a mouth, and no face distortion occurred — as say, Neapolitan ice cream smothered in Dijon mustard then served with a fine Chianti would do.

Not quite to that level, I tasted a 15.2 percent alcohol Pinot Noir at a restaurant recently, with the suggestion it went with the Rack of Lamb. No, it didn’t. It went with the occasion of drinking wine, and whipped the meat into submission. What went well with the beast was dry Michigan Riesling. For me, Greek mythology has more substance than pigeonholing colors and textures of wines going with certain foods.

I confess that when it is late in the fourth quarter with no timeouts, I will resort to the broad-brush approach of the ol’ “red with red, white with white, and pink with anything,” but it is mostly bunk for me after several years of gaining weight with that theory.

In support of my rebellious idea, 1981 was my breakout year having been invited to 54

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • F a l l 2 017

judge a major California wine competition. I was as nervous as a burglar in church and sought technical skills calibration from my old pal and patriarch of Barnard Griffin Winery, Rob Griffin, then winemaker at Preston Winery in Pasco, Wash. After the tune-up on the normal faults/sugar/acid/ tannin variations, he fed me reds and whites in black glasses, so color was absolutely undetectable. If you want a vexing challenge, try this most humbling experiment by tossing some reputed Merlot in a black glass and wax on poetic about its grassy, berry-like flavors, only to find out it is a Sauvignon Blanc.

Further, I pay homage to those that restate anthropocentric customs, claiming that wines that grow in a region are perfect matches with the indigenous foods, a sort of imagining Neanderthals knocking back the genetic ancestor of Pinot Noir with open-pit grilled Wooly Mammoth. Nice in theory, but the grapes from where we associate foods, like Escargot (snails for you Philistines, Weinbergschnecken for you Teutons), come from all over Europe — Germany, France, the Iberian Peninsula and elsewhere. Unless you are from Mesopotamia, or maybe New York, your grapes came to the region and the food grew around them.

Wine pairing is best considered not as wine and food pairing, but as wine and occasion pairing, or wine and mood pairing.

With your 12-ounce New York steak, you have an 18-ounce spud filled with 6 ounces of delectables, a green veggie and, with luck, some savory ’shrooms. You need a Malbec for the meat, however so as to not overpower the broccoli, a Sauvignon Blanc, then a Pinot Blanc for the stuffed potato and a Pinot Noir to match the fungus. And the dilemma then continues when the last 4 ounces of Malbec left in your glass and blackberry cobbler collide, despite the fruit and wine being the same color, ”Garcon, bring me a Port!”

My Rosso often fits a traditionally white dish, and my Bianco more often fits a traditionally red dish. For me, food and wine are

independent decisions without much regard to color, texture or custom, but with total regard to what the company, mood or occasion require.

Also, some foods don’t taste good with wine even though there are folks that will try to convince you otherwise. Like what wine goes well with Jalepeno Mahi Mahi Tacos?

Viognier? Rose of Counoise? Maybe, but probably NO. Margaritas! Cervesa! SI! And I can’t begin to end this written Haka Dance without discussing what kind of wine goes with breakfast. Oh, come on. We know you go on vacation, we know you get up on Sunday morning in ragged pajamas, bare-foot it to the fridge and yank out a bottle of Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut Rose to take back to the sack. C’mon. And as they say, sparkling wine isn’t just for breakfast anymore, you can drink it during brunch too!

Now pay attention, because I am a highly paid wine writer and what I say is of utmost value. You should let the occasion and mood drive the decisions on what wines to have with your foods, and conversely, what foods to have with your wines. Have breakfast for dinner, and dinner for lunch. Drink a Cab Franc with the Chicken Alfredo and a Gewurztraminer with your sirloin. If it is warm, drink white until it cools down, and if it is cool, drink red until it warms up.

And, consistent with my past exits, drink wine always with pals and grub, in moderation, frequently. Arrivederci! is an attorney who lives in Richland, Wash. He is an original member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panle. Learn more about him at www.cokerothlaw.com.

COKE ROTH

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

COYOTE CANYON MARTINEZ & MARTINEZ MCKINLEY SPRINGS WINERY GINKGO FOREST WINERY

GAMACHE VINTNERS MILBRANDT VINEYARDS

2DOR WINES SMASNE CELLARS

THE BUNNELL FAMILY & WINE O’CLOCK

THURSTON WOLFE

AIRFIELD ESTATES

(509) 786-7800

(509) 786-0004 www.mckinleysprings.com

exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrian-friendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in 7 individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemakers Loft.

Fall Events!

Thurston Wolfe - Art from Jan Nilsson of West Richland will be on display through October. In November Penn Shelton will take the lead as featured artist through 2018.

Craft bracelets from Ed Maske. In April Carol VonStubbe will have new art along with Cathleen Williams’ handcrafted jewelry.

The Bunnell Family Wine Bar, Wine O’Clock - Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for à la carte wining and dining.

Closures: Nov. 23, Dec. 24 & 25. Dec 31 Open for special New Year’s Eve Dinner, reservation required. Annual winter vacation closed Jan. 1-17.

County Line Tasting Room, home of Smasne Cellars and 2dor WinesEnjoy handcrafted lunch items daily from 11am-3pm by Executive Chef Kyle Hunter.

Dinner by reservation. Sept. 22 Live music on the patio, 5:30pm-8:30pm.

SEPTEMBER 14 - McKinley Springs - Paint Nite 6pm-8pm 16 - McKinley Springs - Lounging at the Loft featuring The Usual Suspects 6pm-10pm. Live music, Gourmet Food Truck, Estate Wines. Wine Club Release Party

22 - County Line Tasting Room - Live Music on the Patio 5:30 pm - 8:30 pm 22 - McKinley Springs - Firepit Nite - Join us for some storytelling around the fire while you enjoy a glass of wine.

22-23 - Winemakers Loft - Art at the Loft - Featuring artisans from across the northwest. Free admission 10am-5pm.

22-24 - Vintner’s Village - Balloon Rally Weekend at Vintner’s Village.

23 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Lounging at the loft featuring Swing Shift. Taste new white wines from tank with wine maker, 2 - 6pm.

23 - McKinley Springs - Sensory Series Showcase- A fun way to train your senses as

you sip and swirl our featured wines.

23 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Watch the balloons take off then head over to Milbrandt for Saturday Brunch with chef Roger Hazzard from Bon Vinos, from 8am-1pm.

29 - McKinley Springs - Walk the Vines Talk the Dirt Vineyard Tour - Unique way to experience the Horse Heaven Hills.

OCTOBER 6 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday - Join us as we sample a limited edition reserve wine included in your tasing.

6 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Coyote Crazy Wine Night- 15% off all wines 4pm to 7pm 7 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - Fall Wine Club Release 7 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Wine Club Release Party

13 - Airfield Estates - Winemaker’s Dinner 13-15 - Vintner’s Village - Catch the Crush. Visit winery websites for more details.

13-15 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Flights and Bites! Come enjoy our award winning wines expertly paired with some delicious bites.

14 - Airfield Estates - Grape Stomp 14 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Harvest Party Grape Stomp Party with food, wine and

Cale Moon for entertainment 14 - McKinley Springs - 15th Anniversary- Live Music, Gourmet Food Truck, Estate Wines.

21 - McKinley Springs - Firepit Nite- Join us for some storytelling around the fire while you enjoy a glass of wine.

NOVEMBER 3 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday- Join us as we sample a limited edition reserve wine included in your tasing.

3 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Coyote Crazy Wine Night- 15% off all wines 4pm to 7pm 4 - Martinez & Martinez - “la familia” wine club release 10-12 - Winemakers Loft - Drink Prosser Wine Club Weekend 10-12 - McKinley Springs - Salute to Veterans- Thank you for your service. Show

your military ID for special wine pricing. Vintage uniform displays, Wine tasting, Sensory showcase.

17 - Milbrandt Vineyards - MBV Cellar Club November Release Party- Join us in the tasting room from 6-8pm to taste the wines in your shipment while enjoying hors d’oeuvres and live music 18 - Milbrandt Vineyards - Come take advantage of our highly anticipated Winter Wine Sale. We will have case discounts of up to 50% off! This is an in store only sale that you don’t want to miss.

18 - McKinley Springs - End of Vintage Case Sale- Wine Club 10am-11am. Open to public 11am-5pm.

24-27 - Vintner’s Village - Thanksgiving in Wine Country 25 - Coyote Canyon Winery - 5 year Syrah vertical with wine maker 1-5pm

DECEMBER 1 - Coyote Canyon Winery - Coyote Crazy Wine Night- 15% off all wines 4pm to 7pm 1 - McKinley Springs - Vine Vault Friday- Join us as we sample a limited edition reserve wine included in your tasting.

9 - Coyote Canyon Winery - 5 year Michael Andrews vertical with wine maker

1-4pm.

16 - McKinley Springs - Holiday Club Party- Join our McKinley Springs Family.

Please call or check individual web sites for more fall events.