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WINE PRESS
Vol. 13, No. 3
N O R T H W E S T
FEATURES
28 Woodinville Wine Country Explore how this virtually grape-free region in western Washington is growing into a major wine lovers’ destination.
32 Touring Woodinville Get the scope on what you need to know to plan your next trip to Woodinville.
42 Winning Wine Lists If you’re looking for a restaurant with a great wine list, check out the results of our 12th annual competition.
56 Iberian Varieties Varieties from the Iberian Peninsula of Spain and Portugal are finding their niche in the Nothwest.
66 Cedarbrook Lodge Seattle chef pairs his dishes with Torii Mor and Badger Mountain wines.
COVER STORY This page: White wine chills at Elevation Cellars in the warehouse district of Woodinville, Wash. On the cover: Hollywood Hill Vineyard is the only commercial vineyard in Woodinville. Story begins on page 28. Photos by Jackie Johnston
Fall 2010 DEPARTMENTS 6 Wine Nose Hogue’s leap of faith in screwcaps
8 A Distant Perspective Keys to successful wine touring
10 Northwest Edge Casino cuisine no roll of dice at Tulalip
12 Swirl, Sniff & Sip Marsanne, Roussanne rare in Northwest
14 Urban Sips Note to self: Don’t drink and text
16 19 20 76 94
10 Things to Do Northwest wine events Northwest wine news Recent Releases Vintage Musings Tsillan Cellars a winery for the ages
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WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T
Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine — from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Publisher: Rufus M. Friday Editor-in-chief: Andy Perdue Phone: 509-582-1405 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: editor@winepressnw.com Managing editor: Eric Degerman Phone: 509-582-1404 Fax: 509-585-7221 E-mail: edegerman@winepressnw.com Editor at-large: Jon Bauer Tasting editor: Bob Woehler Tasting panel: Winnie Alberg, Trina Cortez, Frank Magaña, Justin Michaud, Kate Michaud, Mike Rader, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Dave Seaver, Paul Sinclair, Bob Woehler, Eric Degerman, Andy Perdue Master facilitator: Hank Sauer Page designer: Jackie Johnston Columnists: Jon Bauer, Dan Berger, Teri Citterman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Ken Robertson, Bob Woehler Contributing photographer: Jackie Johnston Contributing writers: Shona Milne Ad sales: Parker Hodge, 509-585-7257 E-mail: phodge@tricityherald.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. per year for four issues. Mail check, money order or credit card number and expiration date to address below or subscribe securely on our Web site. Subscriptions and customer service: 800-538-5619; e-mail: info@winepressnw.com Letters to the editor: We encourage your thoughts and comments about our publication and about Northwest wines in general. Write to us at the address below. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week e-mail newsletter at www.winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2010 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE
Hogue’s leap of faith in screwcaps
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ive years ago, Hogue Cellars took a leap few others were willing to try: It switched the vast majority of its production to screwcaps. Today, putting wine under threads is not a huge deal. Five years ago, that was unthinkable. Five years ago, much of the wine industry wondered if it could get away with using screwcaps. Most importantly, it didn’t know if anyone would accept screwcaps as a closure on quality wines, rather than associate them with cheap jug wines. In hindsight, that concern was hardly an issue. Winemakers, winery marketing departments, wine merchants, wine stewards and — most importantly — consumers have accepted screwcaps as anything but an alternative. Most certainly, there are a multitude of holdouts. I speak with winemakers all the time who say they will never switch from corks. And some of the Northwest’s largest wineries have not embraced screwcaps. Yet. That doesn’t matter to Co Dinn, Hogue’s director of winemaking, the guy who put his reputation on the line five years ago. Sales of Hogue wines and a remarkable lack of consumer pushback have solidified what he knew to be right: Screwcaps were the correct path for Hogue. “Five years ago, it was all new,” Dinn said. “We had done some experimentation. We had proven to ourselves that we liked what we were seeing, and we had made the decision to go to screwcaps on a commercial scale.” For Hogue, “commercial scale” meant putting hundreds of thousands of cases of wine per year under screwcaps. No other winery in the Northwest was going that far. “Five years down the road, it’s panned out as good as or better than we could have expected.” A technical tasting in August proved his point. I sat down with Dinn for a five-year vertical of Hogue Riesling. The wines showed vintage variations, but each was fresh and seemed to be aging properly. Most enjoyable to me was that each wine was gorgeous and just what Dinn expected when he bottled it. And that’s really the whole point of screwcaps: They should preserve what the winemaker crafted, not leave the wine to the whims of a hunk of bark. After the Rieslings, we tasted a horizontal of 2003 reds from Hogue’s “Terroir” series. These wines are made in small lots that are meant to show off various regions of Washington. Now seven years old, these reds were rather tightly wound still and needed some time to open up. But they were remarkably fresh, almost as if the screwcaps had acted as a time capsule of sorts. I was surprised by this, and Dinn seemed to be, as well. These five years have brought a lot of change in the world of corks. Thanks to the proliferation of screwcaps, the cork industry has shaped up in a big way. A half-decade ago, few would publicly admit there was a problem with cork taint. 6
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Now, cork manufacturers are embracing change because they realize anyone can follow Hogue’s lead if they get angry enough. This means TCA — the compound that can cause a wine to smell like a wet dog sleeping on moldy newspaper in a damp basement — is much less prevalent than it was a half-decade ago, when experts estimated anywhere from 3 to 6 percent of wines were affected. Writer George Taber authored a book on the subject, called To Cork or Not to Cork, that shed light on the issues, both with corks and screwcaps. In fact, compared with five years ago, TCA has nearly vanished because wineries and cork manufacturers won’t stand for it anymore. Meanwhile, the Spanish and Portugese cork growers have launched PR campaigns that are laughable at best. My favorite is the plight of the Iberian lynx, the world’s most-threatened species of cat. If you were to believe the cork industry, the Iberian lynx will be saved if you will only eschew wines that don’t use natural corks because this will support its natural habitat. In fact, the Iberian lynx has been declining in numbers for decades, and the primary reason for its demise is its primary food supply — rabbits — has been devastated by a disease called myxomatosis. None of this is remotely related to corks or screwcaps. Cork apologists also are trying to claim that reduced sulfur is prevalent in wines stored under screwcaps. Reduced sulfur can cause aromas that might remind you of rotten eggs or cabbage. Sulfur is used to keep wines from oxidizing, and in an anaerobic environment, reduced sulfur can become a problem. Hogue solved the potential problem by using a type of screwcap that lets a tiny amount of oxygen in — not unlike a cork — and limits potential issues. Ironically, a winemaker using corks might blast a little more sulfur into the wines prior to bottling. But with screwcaps, winemakers have the freedom to bottle wine in a more perfect state because the seal is better and the chances of spoilage are lower. Additionally, I have asked a number of wine competition directors if they have noticed issues with reduction in screwcapped wines, since they see hundreds of them at once and will quickly be able to note trends. To the contrary, they see no issues. Dinn doesn’t much care about the shenanigans in the cork industry because he has moved on, for the most part. A small percentage of his wines still are bottled under cork, but he is running tests with the Vino-Lok, a glass “cork” that is becoming quite the rage amid high-end producers. In fact, when I asked him what he missed most about corks, he quickly replied, “Nothing.” The cork industry is far from irrelevant, but Hogue’s leap of faith helped push everyone forward. ANDY PERDUE is editor-in-chief of Wine Press Northwest. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER
Keys to successful wine touring
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lanning a tour of any wine country region can be easy or complicated, and a checklist can be as simple as: 1. Make hotel reservations. 2. Use the spit bucket. 3. Get winery tasting room hours. However, to do things right and maximize your experience, there are a handful of things that you may want to consider (not including making appointments for every winery stop, which usually aren’t required). It takes a bit more planning, but it can result in a far more complete and rewarding tour. And once you use this before-you-leave checklist, you may wish to employ a similar strategy for other trips, even those not wine-related. 1. Once the trip is planned and you know which wineries you want to tour, draw a small map of which wineries you’ve targeted, plan to drive to the farthest one from where you will spend the night. The idea is to start your tour in the least populated tasting room, preferably the farthest from a major population base. (Most people start at the first stop on the road.) 2. Bring along a small notebook on which to write down vital details of the wines you taste. This allows you to research getting some of the wines later. (Also, if you’re going to buy wine, it might be helpful to bring along a white foam wine carrier in which to keep your purchases — cars can get pretty hot). 3. Plan to do no more than four wineries a day, so you can spend enough time learning details of those you see. 4. Food. This is the biggie and a step not to ignore since ingesting alcohol can be slightly debilitating; drivers especially should be ultra-cautious about impairment. And the best way to gird up for a day of winery touring is with a sound strategy. At the forefront of this is food. Consuming any alcoholic beverages on an empty stomach is a recipe for trouble, and thus eating becomes a part of the trip’s most vital planning. Those for whom any meal is a joy may think this edict not a very difficult one to follow, but those who are on a strict diet should also think about how the wine-trip eating regimen may call for a slight alteration in the typical dining schedule. To start planning for this, we first look at breakfast. And rule No. 1 here is “Don’t skip breakfast.” And its corollary is “Eat hearty.” The typical French breakfast of a croissant and an espresso has no place on a wine country tour. The impact of a 10 a.m. wine tasting on that sort of “food” is preparing for disaster. Breakfast should be relatively complete in terms of three main basic ingredients, with carbohydrates up there in terms of alcohol-protective substances. Look also at proteins and fats, which also “trap” alcohol and slow processing in the body. Eggs with bacon and pancakes or biscuits are a good way 8
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to start, but any other combination of foods that offers protection from alcohol buildup is a good idea. And any sort of food (coffee shop to gourmet buffet) is OK. But I suspect that a majority of those who are reading this are just not into mundane food, so chain diners may not be an option. To get quality meals (breakfast and lunch), I have developed a strategy that works well to increase the chances of getting a great meal. The day or two before you are seeking places to dine, go on the Internet and search for a respected local coffee roasting company. Call the roaster and ask if it can recommend a café that uses its coffee for its diners. Restaurants that carry a local roaster’s coffee (as opposed to large commercial brands) likely also care about other quality ingredients. And where quality ingredients are served, it’s more likely that you’ll find a slightly upgraded level of food. Among the roasters in the Seattle-Woodinville area are Java to Go, 425-483-9042; Common Ground, 425-844-9751; Zoka Coffee Roasters, 206-217-5519; and Fonte Coffee Roaster, 646512-5162. As for dinner, for us that is usually linked to what sort of lunch you have. And for lunch in wine country, we usually try to invert our meals, less for lunch than at breakfast, and a light dinner. The reason is easy to see: When touring wine country, the majority of the wine you’ll be having will be in the middle of the day, and to consume a lot at dinner simply isn’t as healthful. In a normal day, most people will consumer two to three glasses of wine at dinner, but that follows a mid-day regimen that included perhaps a glass. It’s best to reverse the formula when in tasting rooms all day. Finally, one of the sanest suggestions of all: When touring wine country to evaluate various wines, consume at least as much water as you do wine. Every ounce of wine should be accompanied by an equal amount of water to hydrate the body. Not only does it help to deal with the alcohol itself, but it also keeps the brain clear enough to take cogent notes. I enjoy wine country touring when I can try different wines and offerings that are available only at the tasting room. What fascinates me more than $100 bottles of Chardonnay are wines that display the passion of the wine maker, even if the grapes are obscure. Happy sipping. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly commentary Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com). W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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northwest edge BY BRAIDEN REX-JOHNSON
Casino cuisine no roll of dice at Tulalip
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ot so very long ago, the chances of finding a gourmet meal in a Northwest casino were about the same as landing a royal flush in poker. But the stakes were raised with the August 2008 opening of the $72 million Tulalip Resort Casino on the Tulalip Tribe reservation about 35 miles north of Seattle, near Marysville, Wash. Suddenly, casino food on the Northwest edge of the United States morphed from big-ass buffets and 24-hour coffee shops to elegant dining rooms replete with classical background music, award-winning wine lists and world-class food. In April, we were lucky enough to spend the night at Tulalip Resort Casino and sample through two of its restaurants — its fine-dining venue, Tulalip Bay, and its more casual sibling, the Pacific Northwest-inspired Blackfish. Our evening began at Blackfish with a smoked-salmon appetizer and an order of crab cakes served over tasty vegetable-filled corncakes. Tulalip sommelier Tom Thompson thoughtfully paired our apps with a crisp, citrusy Aligoté. We’ll be back to try one of Blackfish’s signature dishes: wild salmon cooked in the traditional Tulalip-Tribal manner over ironwood spears in an open fire pit. After starters, we headed to Tulalip Bay’s opulent dining room, which features an open kitchen and the Wine Room. Available for private parties, the Wine Room boasts a handcrafted chandelier designed by world-renowned glass artist Dale Chihuly. It’s also home to a temperature-controlled, state-of-the-art wine cellar centered by a granite-topped tasting bar. At 4,000 bottles strong, 35 percent of the cellar’s 500 selections come from Washington. Thompson works with Tulalip Bay’s chef/general manager Dean Shinagawa to orchestrate monthly food-and-wine pairings by region and host winemaker dinners throughout the year. Shinagawa, a native of Hawaii who worked under Roy Yamaguchi at the celebrity chef ’s Seattle outpost in the Westin Hotel, won rave reviews for Tulalip Bay right out of the gate and was subsequently invited to present his food at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City. During dinner, we ordered a variety of items from Shinagawa’s five-course tasting and à la carte menus. The winning dish? A beautifully plated and perfectly cooked Oven-Roasted Steelhead Salmon with Wild-Rice Quinoa Cake, Pear-Pepper Relish and Huckleberry Gastrique. Sleeping wasn’t bad, either, especially in the Tulalip Suite, the resort’s largest high-roller room (actually, a series of rooms!) on the top (12th) floor of the hotel, with sweeping views of the Cascade Mountains. At 2,500 square feet, the suite is massive in scope yet thoughtful in attention to details. Rich woods, natural stone surfaces and traditional Tulalip Tribe artwork are interspersed throughout. There are similar trappings in the casino, too, where the natural elements of earth, wind, fire and water are used as thematic elements to magnificent effect. In late July, we made our second visit to Tulalip to experi10
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ence one of Thompson’s and Shinagawa’s five-course winemaker dinners, dubbed “Dancing in Pairs.” Our dinner featured Ron Lachini, owner/proprietor of Lachini Cellars, a family-owned winery based in Newberg, Ore. Lachini is the real deal — a fourth-generation San Francisco native of Italian descent who grew up helping his father, grandfather and great-grandfather make wine in the family garage. During his late 20s, and after several career changes, Lachini and his wife, Marianne, decided they wanted to find a more fulfilling life by making wine. They discovered 45 acres in the Willamette Valley near Oregon stalwarts such as Bergström, Brickhouse and Beaux Frères, and began producing limited, ultra-premium, single-vineyard Pinot Noir with the 2001 vintage. Lachini’s well-crafted wines played nicely with chef Shinagawa’s creative fusion of fresh Northwest ingredients and tropical-island flavors executed with classic European techniques. I especially liked the chef ’s Macadamia Nut Pesto Shrimp with Shimeji Mushrooms, Tofu Croutons (!) and Thai Curry Lemon Beurre Blanc paired with Lachini Vineyards 2009 Pinot Gris (Oregon). The chef ’s food-and-wine-pairing prowess shone again with Herb-Seared Chilean Sea Bass with Grilled Fennel Ratatouille, Bing Cherry Reduction and Crispy Pancetta Bacon. The Bing cherry sauce picked up similar ripe, bright fruit flavors in Lachini’s 2006 Cuvée Giselle Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, a wine so opulent that Thompson reportedly double decanted it before dinner. Shinagawa also hit the jackpot with his pairing of Wagyu Beef Tataki with an Asian-Style Hollandaise and Lachini Vineyards 2006 Il Mulinello, a red from Red Mountain. Dessert didn’t disappoint with Hazelnut Linzer and Chocolate Cream with Fruit Jam and Mint. The earthy notes from the nuts and the herbal bite of the mint acted as bridges to Lachini Vineyards 2007 La Contrada (Walla Walla Valley), an intriguing Bordeaux-style blend. Happy to report that, no matter how you roll the dice, you’ll come out a winner when you dine at Tulalip Resort Casino. Coordinates:
Tulalip Resort Casino 10200 Quil Ceda Blvd., Tulalip, WA 98271 tulalipcasino.com Upcoming Tulalip Bay winemaker dinners:
Sept. 29: Andrew Will Winery, Vashon Island, Wash. Oct. 27: Barrage Cellars, Woodinville, Wash. Dec. 8: Grand Rêve Vintners, Red Mountain, Wash.
Braiden Rex-Johnson is a Seattle-based cookbook author, food-and-wine columnist and blogger. Visit her online at www.NorthwestWiningandDining.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON
Marsanne, Roussanne rare in NW A friend served up a white wine at dinner the other night that I’d never encountered. He described it as a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne. What can you tell me about it?
First of all, if it was made in the Northwest, I can tell you that you were served a rather rare wine. In searching our wine review archive, which contains thousands of reviews, there are exactly two — both for the same wine — that are a Marsannne-Roussanne blend. In fact, there are only 24 reviews for Roussanne, whether bottled as a blend or with another white. For Marsanne, there are only five. So, it’s more than a bit unusual to run across wines made in the Northwest from Marsanne and Roussanne, which reach perhaps their apogee of perfection in the Rhône Valley of France, as do Syrah and Viognier. But there’s good reason to believe they could have a great future in our region, either as dry white table wines or as a New World equivalent of the Rhône Valley’s vins de paille, sometimes called straw wine or raisin wine. The best-known grapes of the Rhône, Syrah and Viognier, have established themselves as stars in our region as well. The finest examples, especially in Syrah, command $40 or more a bottle, especially if the label says Walla Walla on it. In Wine Press Northwest’s 2009 Platinum tasting, Syrahs and Viogniers each won a Double Platinum award and also several Platinums. That sort of promise could emerge with Marsanne and Roussanne as well, although the Northwest’s first few years of production have yet to reach that level. Still, Alexandria Nicole Cellars’ 2009 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Marsanne showed quite well in one of our tastings earlier this year. We described it as fruit forward, with “grapefruit, marshmallow, banana Laffy Taffy, lemon, apples” in the nose, a similar bright palate of flavors and dried apricot sweetness in the finish. The top-rated Roussanne from our wine reviews, the 2008 Shameless Hussy Roussanne from Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards on Lake Chelan, was a $15 bargain with aromas of apples, peach ice cream, pineapple, vanilla and lemon, followed by peaches and apples with crisp acidity in the flavors and a bit of Grand Marnier in the finish. It was so popular that it was sold out at the winery by the time we reviewed it in late 2009. As luscious as those two examples were, our region’s strong sunshine and warm falls may offer an even more delicious prospect for Northwesterners who love late-harvest and ice wines. The process for making vins de paille sounds made for our climate along the south-facing slopes where Rhône-style grapes flourish. These wines traditionally are dried to concentrate their juices before they are fermented. The most common method is to lay them out on straw mats in the sun until 90 percent of the grapes’ juice has evaporated, although some are simply hung in clusters. Sometimes wooden racks are used instead of straw and some grapes apparently are dried under cover. The basic technique was developed in Northern Italy and the French Alps before the Romans, which makes it more 12
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than 2,000 years old. And in Italy, the famed Amarone dry red wines still are produced using this method. Most of us probably have never tasted one of the truly fine French examples because they’re nearly impossible to find and impossibly high priced, according to wine writer Tom Stevenson’s account in The Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia. Should you ever find one and buy it, perhaps the price would be offset by this thought: When the last wine of the 1760 vintage reportedly was drunk 204 years later in 1964, it still was not only drinkable but also delicious. Now that’s aging potential! Whether anyone in the Northwest will be both bold and adventurous enough to try to emulate these Rhône wines is uncertain. But it’s a sure bet you’ll encounter more of them, some made to stand alone, others in blends that include Viognier and perhaps Muscat. Bookwalter Winery in Richland, Wash., has produced both labeled under the name Tercet. The 2008 was a blend of Muscat, Marsanne and Roussanne, and the 2009 has Viognier substituted for the Muscat. Both are subtle wines that make great summer sippers and pair well with a variety of foods. Wine words: carbonic maceration
Look this one up in your Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, and you’ll immediately be told to leaf ahead to maceration carbonique, which of course means we’re once again having a mini lesson in French. Luckily, you don’t have to hear me butcher the pronunciation, I merely have to type it correctly, so I won’t get into trouble with the French language gendarmes. And if you need to trot out a fancy phrase, this one sounds almost as good in English. It is, in short, a rather broad term for fermenting wine “under the pressure of carbonic gas,” as Sotheby’s puts it. That’s wine-lover talk for carbon dioxide. It’s the winemaking method used to produce Beaujolais Nouveau, the fresh-tasting, fruit-forward French wine that debuts on the third Thursday of November each year, as decreed by law. The aromas of such wines are usually characterized as peardrops, bubblegum and fruit punch. When only a bit of a blended wine includes a red made using carbonic maceration, the process will, according to Sotheby’s, “lift the fruit and soften the wine” without imposing the typical aromatics. I’ve tasted a variety of Northwest red wines that apparently were made with the latter process, so our region’s winemakers are clearly experimenting with the technique. KEN ROBERTSON, a newspaperman for 40 years and a Wine Press Northwest columnist since its founding, has enjoyed sipping and writing about Northwest wines for 33 years. He lives in Kennewick, Wash. Have a question for Ken? E-mail krobertson@winepressnw.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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urban sips BY TERI CITTERMAN
Note to self: Don’t drink and text
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ince phones were invented, we’ve all been inspired to pick up and dial after drinking one or five too many drinks. Now, with smartphones, there are even more opportunities to make bad decisions instantly with drunken emailing and texting. App developers try to save us from ourselves and dissuade the temptation with “The Bad Decision Blocker” and “Don’t Dial” phone apps, which attempt to prevent us from emailing our boss, texting our ex or calling our next. But determination is a funny thing and generally wins out despite the safety mechanisms we put in place. Might as well grab a glass and our phone and see where this joyride takes us!* Ahh, relationship woes require amped-up creativity. Masterpiece NV Red, Columbia Valley, is a strong, blackened blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. It’s a masculine glass of mesquite meat and smoke that takes initiative and writes: I was thinking something wildly deviant like dinner. If that’s too dull, I could see if it’s too late to book us for naked sky diving. Sour cherry meets, unripe plum and a proposed compromise: Naked dinner? Yes, I’ll be the guy wearing the wine bottle. And then you have the girl who “stays.” A Daedalus 2007 Grüner Veltliner, Willamette Valley, is a glass of all things Snow White — dirty apple, white flower, white peach and namely the subject of the following: I went to Disney World today with my friends, met Snow White, then saw her later at a bar. Oaky pear imbues with a tart, empty void as it hits the middle of the tongue hard. [Now] she is naked next to me in her bed, passed out … when you wish upon a star... Then POOF! Gone! Gone or missing is what’s implied in the unfortunate name of Townsend Cellars NV Huckleberry Brut, Columbia Valley. Unexpectedly, this pink sparkler is a burst of tiny-tongue bubbles followed by an upsurge of grapefruit and tart rhubarb. Lively and fresh, it’s a glass of “summer at a café in Italy” and yet, reluctantly, one realizes there is no huckleberry here: He told me he doesn’t dance and he hates drunken excitement. Why I ever thought it would work is beyond me. Innocence abounds in this aromatic Masterpiece NV White Blend, Columbia Valley. Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling pave the way for lavender, pink rubber eraser, honeydew and sweet cream. Let’s just say duck was not what I was trying to write, so comes the guilt that’s always in tow of innocence. Frustrating or not, many smartphones come with autospelling and among the halo of fresh air, orange blossom, sweet peach and fresh pear lies gentle aggression: Seriously iPhone. Stop autocorrecting. You’re making all my strong worded texts look harmless and adorable. Speaking of aggression, bound or unbound, this McCrea Cellars 2008 Grenache Blanc, Yakima Valley, begins with a chapter of salty fish and cut grass encircled with asparagus sweetness. It shoots a quick ETA note for which text is an appropriate use: Probably tied up until 8pm while lemony-lime ceviche-ness unfolds in cilantro spice and mouthwatering acid. It’s met with 14
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a tender response: So jealous – I wanted to tie you up. An inky blast of red to brown sophistication, Tranche Cellars 2005 Barbera, Columbia Valley, screams red currant, cherry and fig. From under the table a quick note is aroused: the red head has a boyfriend leading to a burst of leather, hickory, wood shavings and meat tenderizer. There’s a lot going on in this glass, and just because there’s a goalie doesn't mean u can’t score. On a similar note, DiStefano 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, is bold and distinguished. Blood red, with green beans, sage and rose, its signal stays strong despite the warning bells. In the end, amid juicy black licorice, black fruit and leather, it sends a note of apology: Guess the phone died and meets the instant: Na, I just hung up. Disconnected or not, the Plowbuster 2008 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, tosses layers of ripe, red cherry, deep, juicy strawberry like a game of fruit-filled horse shoes. Exhausted father seeks delirious beauty for moments of reckless pleasure and pancake dining. Peppery, charcoal and red plum coats your tongue with a smooth, vacant mouth feel topped with a dusting of light cinnamon. Pour the syrup! It’s time for family breakfast and ‘Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me.’ Don’t tell me is right! One glass of Gilbert Cellars 2007 GSM Allobroges, Columbia Valley, is all it takes to knock a kiss-off text back where it belongs. It’s a far cry to go from signoffs like XO (hugs and kisses) rich with dark cherry, blackberry and molasses, to all the best, take care or stay in touch. Really? This wine slams a heartfelt Back-atcha!, which permeates the black and tan outer edges of soy sauce and Dulce de Leche. Strong finish? You betcha! Coyote Canyon Winery NV Downtown Red paints the town various shades of cherry cola and red currant. Bursting with a new sense of worship, this is the wine that joins coffee and cedar, finishing with a slow darkness that texts: I got kicked out of Barnes and Noble cuz i put all the bibles in the fiction section. Remember way back when we actually had to memorize phone numbers in order to call them? Seemed much safer. (Thanks to friends Meghan and Gail who provided inspiration and experience. And to Duncan, Adam and Sam at TASTE Restaurant at the Seattle Art Museum for generously aiding my research.) * Note: All these texts are real, either received or from www.textsfromlastnight.com. I highly recommend bookmarking it.
With sass and attitude, TERI CITTERMAN is a Seattle dweller and an eager wine enthusiast. She is the author of the latest edition of Best Places to Kiss in the Northwest and the Northwest Wine Journal. She also was the winner of the Napa Valley Wine Writers Editor’s Choice Award in 2007. She contributes to Seattle Metropolitan and writes An Urban Sip Wine Blog at anurbansip.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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activities
great things to do
in Northwest wine country
BY ERIC DEGERMAN
S
o now you wonder why they don’t refer to this weather pattern as global warming? Just ask Northwest vineyard managers and winemakers. Harvesting this 2010 vintage has been delayed seven to 10 days, and that has winery owners more stressed out and pensive than usual. So depending upon which Northwest crush-pad party or harvest event you attend, there may be more activity than usual. Let’s just hope that the killing frost arrives this year Nov. 10, a month later than last. It’s getting easy and more fun to follow the growing season and the course of events at your favorite wineries with the proliferation of social media such as Facebook and Twitter. And if you make it to any of the events I’ve highlighted below, be a friend and tell ‘em “Wine Press Northwest sent me.”
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Sun Valley goes from spring to fall. Billionaires are pushing out the millionaires in Sun Valley, and the surviving locals will tell you that’s why so many small restaurants in and around Ketchum have shuttered. You see, billionaires bring along their chefs on vacations. Thankfully, Scott Mason at the Ketchum Grill — a Match Maker alum — has survived this plague, and he is scheduled to participate in the Sun Valley Harvest Festival along with Brick 29’s Dustan Bristol — a 2009 Match Maker chef. This Sept. 24-26 event has replaced the springtime Sun Valley Food Wine Festival because the weather is better and nature’s bounty is at its peak. Indeed, a rainstorm moved the 2007 public wine tasting indoors. Among the festivities is the Friday 16
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night downtown restaurant tour where chefs offer pairings with regional wines. Let’s hope they still don’t maintain that California wineries count as “regional” producers. Go to sunvalleyharvestfestival.com for details.
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Party at the Boyles! Officially, it’s the Harvest Party in the Vines at Destiny Ridge Vineyard, the remarkable estate vineyard for Alexandria Nicole Cellars. The hootenanny takes place under the big top of their Ryder Cup-style tent, there’s live jazz, steak and Maine lobster, skeet shooting and games on the crush pad. Last year, I had the pleasure of helping to decide the winning entry for the Member’s Only blend, and it made some Tri-City scientist’s day when I announced her formula came out on top. This year, the bash is Sept. 25. You’ll need to sign up for their wine club. And hurry. Legions of fans from their Prosser and Woodinville tasting rooms descend on the winery like cedar waxwings targeting ripe Tempranillo grapes. Cost is $75. Considering it is quite remote — 40 miles south of Prosser, across the Columbia River from Boardman, Ore. — the extra $25 for a bus ticket is a worthy investment. Go to alexandrianicolecellars.com for info.
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Fall into Oliver. No region in the Northwest does as much orchestrating of events as British Columbians take on for the Okanagan Wine Festivals. Their fall program, Oct. 1-10, counts more than 165 events. On Sunday, Oct. 3, Oliver stages its Festival of the Grape, which is billed as the largest family-oriented event of the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival. The South Okanagan Chamber of Commerce planted the seed in 1997, and it’s grown to more than 50 wineries
that pour their fall releases. There’s food, cheese from Jerseyland Organic, merchandise, a grape stomp and live entertainment includes an ABBA cover band. A ducat is $23. Among those scheduled to pour are Black Hills, Blasted Church, Burrowing Owl, Gray Monk, Hester Creek, Inniskillin, Sumac Ridge, Tinhorn Creek and Wild Goose. Go to festivalofthegrape.ca for info.
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A smokin’ good time. The El Gaucho in Portland is arguably the Northwest’s most wine-friendly cigar lounge not on tribal land. The staff ’s pairing of Frenchman’s Gulch 2005 Ketchum Cuvée, a Davidoff Aniversario No. 2 and steak made for one of the best Match Makers in our 13 years. On Sunday, Oct. 10, EG-P plays host to its annual Shooting for the Stars, an evening filled with card playing that benefits the Hemophilia Foundation of Oregon and the Oregon Regional Hemophilia Treatment Center. And ask how to sign up for your own cigar locker. Light up elgaucho.com.
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They vant you to drink their wine. It’s probably safe to say for many, the two greatest days on the kid calendar are 1) Christmas and 2) Halloween. This year, Halloween falls on a Sunday — not the greatest day for tricks and treats — so the Rattlesnake Hills Wine Trail will stage its annual HallowWine on Saturday, Oct. 30. Wineries will have red wine flowing as the base of the festivities, but staff will be in costume. One of the best notes from last year’s press kit came from Bonair Winery, which read, “Hungry? Try our special Tapas concoction, prepared by our resident hag.” And then there was Piety Flats, which served pumpkin soup. You could try it with Gewürz or Riesling. Learn more at rattlesnakekills.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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Size does matter. Last year, the TriCities Wine Festival took the bold — and necessary — step of leaving its home of many years for the expansive and expensive Three Rivers Convention Center in Kennewick. It will be tough to surpass last year’s catering for the public tasting as Match Maker alum Anthony’s Restaurant and Picazo 7Seventeen were headliners. Abundant floor space allowed the wineries to pour more comfortably, and it made for a fun experience that brought the Tri-Cities Wine Festival back among the top public tasting events in the Northwest. On Nov. 5-6, the festival returns with the wine dinner on Friday, seminars Saturday afternoon and the Gala Wine Tasting ($60) that night. An estimated 100 wineries are expected to pour four wines each as results from the judging portion of the festival are announced. Go to tricitieswinefestival.com.
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Vines make great wreaths. Champoux Vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills ranks as perhaps the greatest site in the Northwest for Bordeaux varieties. And Paul’s wife, Judy Champoux, has a hand in some of the region’s most imaginative wine events. On Nov. 7, guests at Chateau Champoux get the opportunity to make a holiday wreath from some of these world-famous vines. Cost is $25, which includes lunch, a tasting of wines made with Champoux grapes and drawings for gift baskets. Space is limited. Check into chateauchampoux.com.
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The cycling of the seasons. For cyclists, autumn probably ranks as the season because temperatures don’t reach into the 100s and winds have died down. One of the best spots to combine wine touring and cycling has to be the Walla Walla Valley. The best riding is along the county roads between Walla Walla and Milton-Freewater, and the folks at Tourism Walla Walla have practically put the wind at your back by offering bicycle map guides via their web-
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W I N E C O U N T RY site. Tourism Walla Walla also promotes riding the trails near Whitman College and along Mill Creek. Clip in at wallawalla.org/biking.cfm.
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Olives in Oregon. One of the benefits of judging Northwest wines in California wine competitions is getting the opportunity to sample California olive oil and gorge on Graber Olives. The Ontario, Calif., producer supplies what is now the unofficial palate cleanser of the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. There’s olive oil made in Oregon now, thanks to Durant Vineyards in the Dundee Hills. In 2005, the family planted an olive orchard at its Red Ridge Farms in Dayton. The orchard now has 13,000 trees spanning 17 acres. Earlier this year, Match Maker alum Caprial Pence and her husband, John, staged a BBQ seminar with Durant Vineyards wines and Oregon olive oil. On Nov. 13, Simpatica caters the Harvest Dinner, which celebrates picking both grapes and olives. Press on at oregonolivemill.com.
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It’s an island thing. The explosion of wineries in the state of Washington has gone beyond Walla Walla and Woodinville. There are now seven wineries on Bainbridge Island, although they rely on Eastern Washington for most of their grapes. On the weekend of Dec. 4-5, this band of seven is staging “Meet the Winemakers of Bainbridge Island.” Not only does it give you a chance to ride the ferry, but there’s also the opportunity to sample wines made from island-grown grapes grown. Improvements in viticulture, winemaking and global-climate change will be proven in your glass. The website is rather primitive, but there’s this disclaimer: “We may not be great website designers, but we make great wines!” See for yourself at bainbridgewineries.com. ı What is your favorite thing to do in Northwest wine country? Send your ideas to edegerman@winepressnw.com. ı Have a Northwest wine item to post on our free online Wine Events calendar? Go to winepressnw.com/events.
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September 25 Taste of the Harvest, Caldwell, Idaho. This College of Idaho event funds scholarships for migrant workers’ children. Call 208-459-5011 or go to collegeofidaho.edu. 25-26 Catch the Crush, Yakima, Prosser, Tri-Cities. Harvest celebrations from Yakima to the Tri-Cities. Call 866-360-6611 or go to wineyakimavalley.org.
October 1-10 Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, Okanagan Valley, B.C. More than 165 events stretch over 10 days. Call 250-861-6654 or go to thewinefestivals.com. 2-3, 9-10 Lake Chelan Crush, Lake Chelan, Wash. Ten days of a “berry to bottle” fest in the Northwest’s youngest appellation. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com. 16 Entwine, Walla Walla, Wash. This auction at the Marcus Whitman Hotel supports arts, wine and education. Go to wwcc.edu/entwine 16 Food, Wine & Wishes, Portland. Portland Art Museum assists Oregon’s MakeA-Wish Foundation. Call 503-292-2280 or go to orwish.org.
November 5 Walla Walla Wine Auction, Walla Walla, Wash. This is the 29th annual fundraiser for Planned Parenthood of Walla Walla. Go at plannedparenthood.org/ppgwni 5-6 Tri-Cities Wine Festival, Kennewick, Wash. One of the Northwest’s largest wine festivals is at Three Rivers Convention Center. Go to tricitieswinefestival.com. 6 Taste of the Peninsula, Port Angeles, Wash. Olympic Peninsula wineries, farmers help the YMCA for the fourth year. Call 360-452-9244 or go to ccfymca.org. 11-14 Whistler’s Cornucopia, Whistler, B.C. Whistler’s annual extravaganza of Northwest wine and cuisine. Go to whistlercornucopia.com. 12 Epicurean Delight, Spokane, Wash. This annual gala benefits the Inland Northwest Blood Center. Call 509-232-4567 or go to epicureandelight.org. 12-13 ¡Salud! Dundee and Portland. This annual Pinot Noir auction benefits Oregon’s vineyard workers. Call 503-681-1850 or go to saludauction.org. 12-13 Taste of Tulalip, Tulalip, Wash. More than 60 Washington wineries pour at this award-winning young event at Tulalip Resort Casino. Go to tulalipresort.com. 13 Northwest Wine & Food Festival, Portland. This fifth annual event moves to Pure Space in the Pearl District. Go to nwfoodandwinefestival.com. 13 Gusto! Everett, Wash. More than 100 Northwest wines and 20 restaurants raise funds for Everett Community College. Call 425-388-9948 or go to everettcc.edu/gusto. 13-14 Passport Wine Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. The Olympic Peninsula Wineries’ annual fall wine-touring event. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org. 13-14 Savor the Flavor, Pasco, Wash. Tri-Cities wine and food celebrities gather to benefit Modern Living Services. Go to savortricities.com. 19-21 Holiday Wine Festival, Spokane, Wash. A weekend of wine, art and food annually staged the weekend before Thanksgiving. Go to spokanewineries.net. 25-28 Thanksgiving in Wine Country, Yakima Valley, Wash. Tour Washington’s oldest wine region. Go to wineyakimavalley.org. 26-28 Wine Country Thanksgiving, Willamette Valley, Ore. More than 150 wineries of the Willamette Valley celebrate the holidays. Go to willamettewines.com. 26-28 Lake Chelan Fall Barrel Tasting, Lake Chelan, Wash. Get a peek at wines from the state’s 11th American Viticultural Area. Go to lakechelanwinevalley.com.
December 3-5 Holiday Barrel Tasting, Walla Walla, Wash. Enjoy a weekend visiting the wineries of the Walla Walla Valley. Go to wallawallawine.com or call 509-526-3117. 4-5 St. Nicholas Day Open House, Woodinville, Wash. Woodinville wineries open their doors for this passport-style event. Go to woodinvillewinecountry.com. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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NORTHWEST WINE
Bargain Bob hunts down some low-cost Syrah BY “BARGAIN BOB” WOEHLER
The grape: Syrah The word: This variety bottled on its own may
not be as popular as it once was, but it’s still a great wine to have around. In 1988, the late David Lake produced the first Syrah in Washington, but I remember it really began to gain prominence in the Pacific Northwest in the late 1990s. It seemed that you never could keep it in the cellar. I know I always ran out, falling in love with its hedonistic, berry jam flavors, smoky aromas, black pepper and gamy character. It was something different than the standard Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots, and many fell under its spell. Consequently, it was hard to buy a Syrah for under $20 a bottle, and many were $30 to $50. But never fear, old Bargain Bob has found six Syrahs for $15 or less — and one for about $5. The match: I go to Natalie Maclean’s website for some great match-ups. How about rabbit, lasagna, pizza, beef brisket
or even a grilled cheese sandwich? The bargains: Shop around and you can find similar prices. Washington Hills 2006 Washington, $5: Not the best Syrah I’ve ever tasted, but it delivers for the price, offering pepper and spice with a raw meat-like aroma and juicy plum fruit. Eliseo Silva 2007 Columbia Valley, $7: This is Tagaris Winery’s second label but the Richland, Wash., winery didn’t make it as a second-class wine. Smoky oak and sweet jam abound with a tasty, almost zippy boysenberry jam finish. Barnard Griffin 2008 Columbia Valley, $12: Winemaker Rob Griffin always creates a satisfying wine regardless of cost, and this is no exception. Intense ripe fruit with cranberries and a hint of chocolate combine for a smooth and pleasing red. W.B. Bridgman 2007 Columbia Valley, $10: From this old name in the wine industry comes an offering with dark berry color and oak in the background. It’s juicy and really mellow. Willow Crest 2006, Washington, $10: Made from the grapes grown on 25-year-old Yakima Valley vines, this one is aromatic with great acidity. Think of plums and blackberries, then oak. Dusted Valley Vintners 2007 Boomtown Syrah, Columbia Valley $15:
A nice wine from an award-winning Walla Walla winery. Wellmade with toasty oak, a bit of chocolate and an onslaught of ripe berries on the palate.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Wine Club
Two Bottles of select
Northwest Wine delivered monthly, accompanied by our
“Vin Affairs” newsletter detailing your monthly selection.
503-620-6691 800-288-3008
www.pnwc.com 20
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2 Washington winery owners pass away BY WINE PRESS NORTHWEST
The Washington wine industry lost two owners this summer: Bud Mercer of Mercer Estates in Prosser and John Powers of Chuckanut Ridge Wine Co. in Bellingham. Mercer, 71, was a member of a family of farmers and a longtime champion of agricultural projects and a Prosser civic leader. He died Aug. 11 after a long battle with pulmonary fibrosis. The third-generation farmer and rancher joined his son, Rob, and Mike Hogue, co-founder of Hogue Cellars, in launching Mercer Estates in 2006. He also was co-president of the Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center Board. Mercer was responsible for developing the fresh-pack carrot industry and also transformed dry farmland into some of the largest irrigated vegetable farms in the region. He helped establish the Columbia-Snake River Irrigators
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Association, which now represents many of Eastern Washington’s largest farming operations. Powers, 57, founder and coowner of Chuckanut Ridge, died July 30 after suffering a head Mercer injury while playing golf at Bellingham Golf & Country Club. In 2002, Powers and co-owner Michael Burnett launched Chuckanut Ridge near the town of Bow, Wash., at the southern end of famed Chuckanut Drive. Using grapes from the Columbia Valley, they produced wines of distinction, particularly from Crawford Vineyard near Prosser. Their most famous wine was a CabMerlot blend called Bad Bunny that featured Bellingham artist Thomas Wood’s drawing of a rabbit smoking a cigarette.
In 2007, the pair moved their winemaking facility to northern Whatcom County and opened a tasting room in Bellingham, below Western Washington University, where Powers graduated Powers with a degree in journalism in the mid-1980s. The tasting room quickly became popular with locals after Powers began to showcase local artists and musicians. Jenny Schwartz, Powers’ girlfriend, said she plans to keep the winery open. “I will be running Chuckanut Ridge Wine Co. for him,” she said in an email to Wine Press Northwest. “He groomed me for years to do just so, without ever telling me. It is a passion now of mine to continue his legacy.”
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Nom de vine: Stories behind wine names
Alabama doesn’t like what it sees on wine label BY JON BAUER
When a pop-tart celebrity lets a nipple slip in the presence of paparazzi, the media’s tittering attention isn’t always unwelcome. So when Alabama’s Alcohol Control Board thought it glimpsed a nipple on the label for wines by Walla Walla, Wash., winery Dusted Valley Vintners and threatened to prevent its sale in the Southern state, owner Chad Johnson wasn’t happy about the prospect of a lost market. But he also saw the opportunity for a little publicity. “We had slogans and T-shirts all set to go: ‘Unfined, unfiltered and unfit for the state of Alabama,’” Johnson said. The problem, Johnson was initially told, was that some with the state alcohol control board thought they saw something untoward in the image on Dusted Valley’s label, which features artwork by Walla Walla artist Squire Broel. The scratchboard image, based on an old woodcut, shows Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture, as she walks through a field of grain, sickle in her left hand, a sheaf of wheat in her right arm against her bare chest. “They thought they saw a nipple, which meant the label was not acceptable in a public setting,” Johnson said. This wouldn’t have been the first time Alabama sought more modesty on its wine shelves. In July 2009, the same board barred the sale of Monterey County, Calif.-based wine Cycles Gladiator. The Gladiator wines featured a label based on a French bicycle advertisement from the Belle Epoch, between 1871 and 1914. The poster and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
label showed a Gladiator bicycle with a naked nymph floating above it, grasping the handlebars, her long golden hair billowing behind her and breast and buttocks bared for all the world to see. When told that, like Gladiator, its label wasn’t fit for public view, Johnson was surprised. Even the artist had to take a second look. “Chad called me, and I said, ‘Are you kidding?’” Broel said. “I had to pull up the image on my phone to take another look.” Broel, who says he has nothing against nipples, hadn’t remembered including that much detail in the artwork. Scratchboard art by its nature, Broel said, doesn’t allow for fine detail, and the piece was meant to look like a woodblock print. His best guess is that with a big enough magnifying glass Ceres’ right index finger held at her
chest might look like a nipple. “You have to have a wild, creative mind,” he said. Broel, who has his own winery, Foundry Vineyards with business partner Mark Anderson, said he’s provided the art for several wine labels but has never had one questioned as pornographic. In the end, Alabama relented. Johnson got word in July that the Alcohol Control Board had approved Dusted Valley wines and the Ceres label for sale in the state. Still, Alabama’s alcohol bureaucrats and Johnson may not have heard the last of each other. A self-described “corporate refugee” who likes to have fun, Johnson isn’t ready to let the matter rest completely. “We’re thinking of embossing an areola on the next label,” he said.
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5 new books for Northwest wine lovers BY ANDY PERDUE
Five new books have arrived on my desk in time for autumn enjoyment and holiday gift ideas. Four focus on the Pacific Northwest, and one explores one of America’s forgotten wine grapes. Idaho Wine Country, by Alan Minskoff, $27.95, 190 pages, Caxton Press, 2010.
One way to tell if an emerging wine region is gaining respect is by the number of books published. With that in mind, Idaho is doing quite well, considering no fewer than two books have been published in the past year on the Gem State’s wine industry. The latest is Idaho Wine Country, written by Alan Minskoff and gorgeously photographed by Paul Hosefros. Moving from the Panhandle to the Snake River Valley, Minskoff profiles Idaho’s 42 wineries, providing background information on the personalities behind the labels and exploring Idaho’s wine country experience. Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest, by Cole Danehower, $24.95, 308 pages, Timber Press, 2010.
Northwest Palate co-publisher Cole Danehower’s first book
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is a beautiful overview to Pacific Northwest wine country. His coffee table book is gorgeously photographed by Andrea Johnson, a longtime contributor to wine magazines and books. Essential Wines and Wineries of the Pacific Northwest provides background on each region of the Northwest and profiles many top producers. He also explains sustainable agriculture, biodynamic winemaking and other terms that have become part of the wine industry’s modern vernacular. Washington Wines & Wineries: The Essential Guide (second edition), by Paul Gregutt, $34.95, 392 pages, University of California Press, 2010.
Paul Gregutt is back with a second edition of this book, which first arrived in tasting rooms and bookstore shelves in 2007. But Gregutt, a longtime observer and writer of Northwest wines whose column appears weekly in The Seattle Times, describes his latest effort as a completely new book rather than a new edition. As always, Gregutt provides a thorough review of Washington’s wine history and an overview of the grapegrowing regions (interestingly, he spends the most words on the smallest appellation, Red Mountain, giving credence to its importance for top-quality red wine grape production.)
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NORTHWEST WINE He rates each grape variety grown in Washington, offering his picks on top producers, as well as writing about many of the best vineyards. The meat of the book is his profiles of Washington’s top vineyards, along with extensive tasting notes. Chef in the Vineyard: Fresh & Simple Recipes from Great Wine Estates, by John Sarich. $32.95, 256 pages, Sea-Hill Press, 2010.
John Sarich is one of the finest chefs in the Pacific Northwest whose food you might never have tasted. In his longtime role as culinary director for Chateau Ste. Michelle, he focuses on teaching, developing recipes and overseeing wine dinners. Sarich also has now written five books with the release this summer of Chef in the Vineyard. In it, he presents more than 140 recipes and suggested wine pairings. This is a beautifully illustrated book that is packed not only with recipes but also information on wineries, vineyards and the wine country lifestyle.
Washington Greater Seattle Area CITY CELLARS FINE WINES, 1710 N.45th St., Seattle. (206) 632-7238. Tues.-Sat.11-7; Sundays 12-5. www.citycellar.com. Friday tastings 5-7. “In the heart of Wallingford.” DeLAURENTI SPECIALTY FOOD & WINE, 1435 1st Ave. in Seattle's Pike Place Market. Over 1000 wines & 250 Cheeses (800) 873-6685 • www.delaurenti.com deVINE WINES, 15224 Main St. in Mill Creek Town Center, featuring boutique NW wines, 425-357-6200 • www.de-vinewines.com ESQUIN WINE MERCHANTS, 2700 Fourth Ave. S., Seattle. More than 4,000 wines. Discount prices and free local delivery. Open 7 days a week. 206-682-7374. www.esquin.com GEORGE’S WINE SHOPPE, Kelsey Creek Shopping Ctr., 15015 Main St. Ste 115, Bellevue, WA 98007. Wines for every taste! Open Mon.-Sat. 10-6. 425-644-7723 www.georgeswineshoppe.com NORTH CITY BISTRO Wine Shop Seattle. 1520 NE 177th. Extensive wine selection. 206-365-4447 • www.northcitybistro.com WEST SEATTLE CELLARS, 6026 California Ave. S.W., Seattle. Thurs. free tastings: 5:30-8 (206) 937-2868 • westseattlecellars.com THE WINE ALLEY, Fairwood Shopping Center, 14276 SE 176th St., Renton, WA 98058 Finest wines from the Pacific NW & the world 425-271-4501 • www.thewinealley.com
Tacoma Area WILDSIDE WINE, just off Sixth in Tacoma, at 608 A S. Oxford (3 blocks E of Jackson around the corner from JT's). E-mail for our specials: Carol@wildsidewine.com • 253-565-0811 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
The Wild Vine: A Forgotten Grape and the Untold Story of American Wine, by Todd Kliman, $25, 280 pages, Clarkson Potter, 2010.
At first glance, the story of Norton, a relatively obscure North American grape, sounds like a great candidate for a magazine article, not a 280-page book. But author Todd Kliman makes his case with the compelling story of a struggle for survival and, ultimately, respect — not only for a red wine grape but also its biggest proponents. Norton is grown primarily in Virginia, where it originated, and Missouri. The Wild Vine is a deeply researched volume, yet it reads more like a mystery novel than a textbook, with Kliman digging into the psyche of Dr. Daniel Norton, the man credited with nurturing the variety. Anyone with a love for wine and its history will enjoy The Wild Vine — and likely will want to seek out wines made from Norton.
WINE BANK, 7017 27th St W.,University Place, WA 98466. Open Tues-Sat. Saturday tastings. Wine club; weekly e-mail specials. We ship! Great wines, great prices, great service! 253-564-1101 • www.winebankup.com
Olympic, Kitsap Peninsula, San Juans COMPASS WINES, 1405 Commercial Ave., Anacortes, WA. 360-293-6500; fax: 360-588-1895. Extensive collection of rare & collectable wines. Wine storage. Only 2 blocks from the marinas. Dockside delivery available. compasswines.com
Spokane HUCKLEBERRY’S Natural Market, Spokane, 926 S. Monroe, (509) 624-1349. The Inland Northwest’s largest selection of the world’s wines. www.huckleberrysnaturalmarket.com VINO! Wine Shop, where you don’t need to know a lot about wine. Join our discount buying club or our “Wine of the Month Club.” Wine tasting every Friday & Saturday. Join the fun at 222 S. Washington St., Spokane, WA 800-826-5674 • 509-838-1229 • vinowine.com
Central Washington MANSON RED APPLE MARKET WINES The best local wines of the Chelan Valley in one convenient location: 1610 Wapato Way in Manson, WA near beautiful Lake Chelan. Daily 6 a.m.-10 p.m. • (509) 687-3168 GIFTS OF THE VINE, Ellensburg, WA. 421 N Pearl St. Suite 100; Tues-Sun afternoons, Pacific NW wines & gifts; Fri-Sun Tastings giftsofthevine@gmail.com • 509-925-1020 LONE PINE FRUIT & ESPRESSO, 23041 Hwy 97 between Wenatchee & Chelan, 17 mi N. of Orondo. Regional wines, specialty foods, gifts. www.lonepinefruit.com • 509-682-1514
Yakima, Tri-Cities, Walla Walla, Pullman THE OLD POST OFFICE WINE CELLAR & GALLERY, 245 SE Paradise, Pullman. Large selection: wines, cheeses, beers; Wine Club 509-338-9463 • opowines.com STEMS, NW wines & gifts, 411 E. Yakima Ave., downtown Yakima, in the Hilton Garden Inn. Open Monday-Saturday 10-6 Tastings: Wednesdays, 12-7 • 509-452-8800
Oregon Greater Portland Area BRENTWOOD WINE COMPANY — Internet fine wine weekly auctions. Titanium Schott Zwiesel crystal wholesale & retail. The Northwest's largest buyer of fine wine. For free appraisal, email wine list: appraisals@brentwoodwine.com (503) 638 WINE • www.brentwoodwine.com CORNELL WINE COMPANY, Portland, 14740 NW Cornell Rd. #90. Open Tues - Sat 10-7 pm. Tastings: Friday & Saturday (503) 531-3981 mick@cornellwine.com • www.cornellwine.com
Southern Oregon JACKSONVILLE INN WINE & GIFT SHOP Extensive list of hard-to-find wines. Dinner guests can select from over 2,000 wines (541) 899-1900 (800) 321-9344 • jacksonvilleinn.com
Eastern Oregon GREAT PACIFIC WINES & COFFEE CO., 403 S. Main St., Pendleton, OR. (541) 276-1350 Mon-Thurs: 10-8; Fri: 10-9; Sat: 8:30 am-8 pm
Oregon Coast THE CELLAR ON 10TH, Astoria. Corner of 10th & Marine Dr. Finest selection of regional wines. Wine bar; weekly tastings; storage; gifts. (503) 325-6600 • www.thecellaron10th.com E-mail us: thecellaron10th@aol.com FA L L 2 0 1 0 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
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Bob Betz’s demonstration vineyard looks out over a neighbor’s horses and a nursery.
Exploring Woodinville Wine Country BY ANDY PERDUE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON
W
hat has occurred in the formerly sleepy community of Woodinville in the past three years is nothing short of remarkable. The town on the northern edge of King County has developed into the epicenter of Washington wine tourism at a dizzying pace that so far 26
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sees no end. “Washington is redefining what wine country is,” said John Bookwalter, owner and winemaker of Bookwalter Winery and chairman of the Washington Wine Commission. The second-generation Richland, Wash., winemaker opened a tasting
room in Woodinville’s Hollywood district in August 2008, when about 30 other wineries were in the area. Today, there are no fewer than 80 — a number that changes almost weekly. “My thought was to get closer to our customers,” said Bookwalter, whose parents launched the winery in 1983 and opened the Richland tasting room and production facility in 1994. “We saw how effective it was to sell wine directly to consumers in Richland, and we thought we could do the same in the Seattle market.” The greater Seattle area, with a population of nearly 3.5 million people, is more than 150 miles west of the Yakima Valley and nearly 300
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Wine-stained barrels are stacked to the rafters at Januik Winery.
miles from Walla Walla — with a rugged mountain range separating the two sides of the state. In the world of wine, Washington is unusual because its major population center is so far away from the vineyards. Napa Valley is 50 miles from San Francisco, and Oregon’s Dundee Hills are just 30 miles from Portland, for example. “Washington has dealt with this forever,” said Ryan Pennington, senior communications manager for the Washington Wine Commission in Seattle. “Our geography is no doubt a challenge.” Enter Woodinville. The former lumber town had no connection to the wine industry until Washington’s largest winery
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decided to build there in 1976. “For years, we postulated that there must have been some great strategic discussion about putting the chateau in the Yakima Valley where the grapes came from or close to the state’s population center,” said Ted Baseler, CEO of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. In the mid-1970s, Washington residents drank little premium wine, so building a grand winery in the Puget Sound region was a little risky, and the owners of Ste. Michelle hoped as many as 30,000 people might visit each year. In fact, nearly 10 times that amount began showing up soon after the winery was completed. Baseler said he had lunch with Wally Opdycke, who made the deal
to purchase the estate of Seattle lumber baron Frederick Stimson, and asked him about the process. “ ‘Obviously, you made a brilliant decision,’ I told him. He said, ‘Well, yeah, we didn’t have a lot of strategic debate on it. I wanted to live in Seattle, so we built the winery here.’ “So it was one of those fortuitous events of unintended consequences,” Baseler said with a chuckle. Indeed. The modern Washington wine industry can mark 1976 as a pivotal point in its history, as the opening of Chateau Ste. Michelle showed remarkable faith in a fledgling business that had fewer than 10 producers at the time. For a decade, Ste. Michelle stood alone in
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Woodinville, drawing The Hollywood Schoolhouse has more than 100,000 visibeen a landmark in Woodinville tors annually. In 1986, since 1912. Haviland Winery built a grand facility directly across the street. Within three years, Haviland was out of business and Columbia Winery moved in, where it remains today. Slowly, wineries opened in Woodinville. Lou Facelli moved his operation from Kirkland in 1990. He’d served as winemaker for Haviland for two years prior to that, making him the longesttenured winemaker in Woodinville. Others followed in the ‘90s, including DeLille Cellars, DiStefano Winery, French Creek Cellars (now defunct), JM Cellars and Silver Lake Winery. Oddly, few wineries seemed willing to take advantage of Chateau Ste. Michelle’s ability to draw wine lovers to the east side of Lake Washington. At the turn of the millennium, that began to change, thanks in part to a new law that allowed Washington wineries to have more than one tasting room. A Want to learn more about explorfew heavy hitters such as Ste. ing Woodinville wine country:? Michelle alums Mike Januik and Bob Check out these resources: Betz located eponymous wineries in ıϧW O O D I N V I L L E W I N E C O U N T RY. C O M Woodinville. Both of them started in This is the Woodinville wine associaa warehouse district across town tion’s website and lists the names from Ste. Michelle. The area was and hours of wineries and tasting inexpensive and provided space for rooms. production as well as interstate ı W O O D WA R E W I N E . C O M access to Eastern Washington’s vineThe wineries and tasting rooms in yards. Woodinville’s warehouse district In 2006, Darren DesVoigne maintain this site. opened DesVoigne Cellars in one of ı W O O D I N V I L L E W I N E U P D AT E . C O M the warehouses. At the time, fewer Nobody keeps closer tabs on the than a half-dozen wineries were in Woodinville wine scene than blogger that part of Woodinville. Shona Milne. “The last 24 months have seen the floodgates open,” DesVoigne said.
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“More east-siders came over, and lots of little start-ups and hobby winemakers who wanted to take it to the next level showed up.” Today, no fewer than 35 wineries and tasting rooms are in the warehouse district, about 10 minutes from Ste. Michelle. DesVoigne points out that while many of the wineries near Ste. Michelle, known as the Hollywood district, are strictly tasting rooms, the warehouse district has many production facilities. During harvest, visitors will be greeted with the aromas of fermenting juice and the sights and sounds of grapes being crushed and bottling lines. “It’s the full winery experience,” he said. Most of Woodinville’s growth has taken place during a global economic downturn, which turned out to be fortuitous for many. “I couldn’t have opened at a worse time,” Bookwalter said. “But I also couldn’t have opened at a better time because I was an early adopter. I’ve always said, ‘If this is as bad as it gets, I’ll take it.’ “ Since opening in 2008, Bookwalter has seen year-over-year growth every month. While his Richland tasting room is about two-thirds bigger in sales, he attributes much of that to being open in the evenings. If he were to look at sales during comparable hours, his Woodinville operation probably would show similar revenue. Bookwalter shares a parking lot with four other tasting rooms at the Hollywood Schoolhouse. He’s also within a block of at least a dozen other tasting rooms and just up the
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GROWING GR APES IN WOODINVILLE H O L LY W O O D H I L L V I N E YA R D
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early all the wine in Woodinville is made from grapes east of the Cascade Mountains — but not all of it. Steve and Becky Snyder, owners of Hollywood Hill Vineyards, have the only commercial vineyard in Woodinville, crafting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from their 1.5 acres in a pastoral setting just minutes from Chateau Ste. Michelle. The Snyders struck on the idea of growing grapes in the vast but viticulturally empty Puget Sound appellation after Steve took a class on Puget Sound viticulture from Gerard Bentryn, owner of Bainbridge Island Vineyards & Winery and an advocate for Puget Sound grape growing. Steve and another class member found a vineyard in 1998 on Vashon Island and leased it for a few years before he and Becky decided to plant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Woodinville in 2003. He left his job at Microsoft (“I wasn’t one of those millionaires,” he lamented), and the couple dived into their vineyard and winery operation full time. “I studied the climate of Puget Sound pretty carefully after taking Gerard’s class,” Steve said. “We don’t have a lot of south-facing slopes around here, but we do have a lot of good western slopes.” Their vineyard receives about 2,000 heat units per year and is warmer than downtown Seattle. “I figured I could get away with growing grapes here, and it’s worked out pretty well.” In four vintages, they have made three red Pinot
street from Ste. Michelle and Columbia. With at least 80 wineries and tasting rooms, Woodinville shows few signs of slowing, leaving many to wonder where the ceiling is. “We keep hearing about more coming in,” DesVoigne said. “It’s impossible to track. There’s a school of thought that we’ve already passed the number of wineries that can be
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Noirs and one rosé. Steve said 2010’s cool weather will likely result in another rosé. Wine from their estate grapes totals fewer than 150 cases, about 10 percent of their total production. They also make a red wine from the rare Regent grape, a German hybrid introduced to the region in 2000. They buy their grapes from a vineyard in the Mason County town of Grapeview. The rest of the grapes for his 1,200 cases come from such Yakima Valley and Rattlesnake Hills vineyards as Boushey, Portteus and Elerding. The Snyders focus on Rhône varieties, and their 2006 Portteus Vineyards Syrah earned a unanimous Double Platinum last fall in Wine Press Northwest’s year-end bestof-the-best competition. “I like both sides of the state,” Steve said. “We sell out of our Puget Sound wine so quickly, I wish we had more of it.” ı
sustained and we’ll see a shake-out. That said, Washington continues to grow despite the economy and sheer numbers of wineries.” DesVoigne already is seeing the effects of increased competition. While the large numbers of wineries act as a magnet for the greater Seattle area, the crowds haven’t necessarily kept up with the ever-widening choices of tasting rooms. He
A grapevine reaches for the sun at Hollywood Hill Vineyard in Woodinville.
points to about two years ago, when the warehouse district had 15 wineries. “We were definitely drawing a lot of people,” he said. “We saw a lot of new and repeat customers. That was kind of a heyday for us. We still see some increases now, but there hasn’t been similar growth.” He and others are quick to point out that economic hard times have
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Darren DesVoigne pours some of his wine at DesVoigne Cellars in the Woodinville warehouse district.
skewed everything as businesses try to figure out what “normal” is anymore. Facelli, who has more than 30 vintages behind him, has watched the entire Woodinville phenomenon unfold. His is a family operation whose tasting room is open only on the weekends, and he relies on selling 80 percent or more of his production directly to the consumer. He focuses on small lots of highquality wine and is most famous for his Italian varieties, especially Barbera and Sangiovese. Customers are treated like family members, with Facelli greeting them, chatting about wine and signing bottles as they go out the door. But he’s seen his steady stream of business begin 30
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Rosé is put on ice for an event at Dusted Valley Vintners’ tasting gallery.
to slow, with case sales becoming bottle sales. Part of it is the economy, and part of it is competition. He’s been in Woodinville a long time, and visitors tend to gravitate toward who is new rather than who is established. He realized a few years ago that to survive in this environment, he would need to scale back. He purposely reduced his production to 2,000 cases from a high of 8,000 nearly a decade ago. “It’s one of the smartest things we’ve done,” he said. The economy also stalled plans for the Woodinville Village, a mixed-use area a short walk from Ste. Michelle. Mike McClure of MJR Development came up with the concept of winer-
ies, offices, retail stores, restaurants, grocers and residents sharing the same space. He built 39 townhomes along the Sammamish River, all of which are occupied. Brian Carter Cellars and DeLille Cellars opened tasting rooms, and the chamber of commerce also is a tenant. But the economy put the rest of the development on hold. When finished, it will be a centerpiece of the Woodinville wine country experience. Dave Witt, executive director of the Greater Woodinville Chamber of Commerce, said keeping track of the wineries is nearly impossible. And despite the number of wineries tripling in less than three years, traffic hasn’t become a problem. In fact,
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traffic is at its worst when people go to and from work, not when wineries are open. Two new roundabouts just up the hill from Ste. Michelle have alleviated potential congestion in that area, he pointed out. “It just hasn’t been an issue,” he said. Woodinville, once an outpost in King County that was nearly annexed by nearby Bothell until its residents voted to incorporate in 1993, is quickly maturing. Ste. Michelle’s Baseler, for one, is pleased because he can get a good meal whenever he wants. “When I got here in 1984, there really was nothing,” he said. “If we had a VIP in town, we would have to drive them to the one French restau-
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rant north of Woodinville. When that place went out of business, we were out of luck. It was a desert when it came to fine dining.” Today, he can walk across the road to the Barking Frog, The Herbfarm and Redhook Ale’s brewpub or up the street to Purple Café. He’s not the only one. “When I go to lunch somewhere, it looks like the company cafeteria,” he said with a quick smile. Considering Ste. Michelle is Woodinville’s second-largest employer, this is good indeed. While Baseler believes some wineries will probably close or move on, he doesn’t think the growth is even close to being done. “I think this will continue to expand,” he said. “We’ll probably have a few more great restaurants to take advantage of all these wineries, as well as more high-end wine country inns. This could end up like Yountville (in the Napa Valley), where you have gift shops and galleries and all the rest of the good life in one area. I think it’s very exciting. Something more will happen,” he said, adding, “The pace is a little mind-numbing — and slightly bittersweet.” Baseler said he is thrilled to have neighbors and watch a wine region grow before his eyes. But he and others are concerned that Eastern Washington’s vineyard regions will be overlooked — or worse, abandoned. “I see Woodinville as the gateway to the Columbia Valley,” he said. “We have to drive people to the vineyards of Eastern Washington” by introducing them to the wine country experience. The wine commission’s Pennington agrees. “From our standpoint, having a cross-section of the the state’s wine industry located 20 minutes from a million people is nothing but positive and speaks well of our industry. It makes our job easier, but it’s no substitute for seeing vineyards and
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the dramatic differences between the two sides of our state.” Bookwalter added, “If we’re doing our job right in Woodinville, they’ll come to Eastern Washington for the rest of the wine country experience.” ı AN D Y PE R D U E is editor of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a
regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website is WineCountryCreations.com
PERSPECTIVES OF A WOODINVILLE WINE BLOGGER By Shona Milne woodinvillewineupdate.com ’m fortunate to have 70-plus wineries and tasting rooms in my backyard in Woodinville. This has given me, as a wine blogger for Woodinville Wine Update, a lot of material to cover. Two distinct areas have developed; the Hollywood Schoolhouse area and the warehouse district. The Hollywood Schoolhouse area has seen the most growth recently with the addition of many tasting rooms coming over from Eastern Washington. We have added about 21 tasting rooms in the last two years. Things are still shaking out with these additions. Right now, the days and hours of the tasting rooms are changing as they adjust for traffic. The warehouse district is a unique area with many boutique wineries. Some are sharing spaces to launch their wines to the public. Some have just a few barrels of wine when they start and there is the spirit of camaraderie, which I love about this area. I love that I can walk in and chat with the winemaker and maybe get an invitation to do a barrel tasting and find out what they may have planned for the future. I get a lot of info about what is going on from just chatting with everyone. We seem to be running out of room with all the new arrivals, and I hear that there are more Eastern Washington wineries planning on tasting rooms in Woodinville. I think we may see a third area develop out of necessity, but space for a tasting room is easier to secure than space for wine production. There are other spots within the Seattle area where we will be seeing more tasting rooms and wineries, but Woodinville is where most want to be located. ı
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Touring Woodinville BY ERIC DEGERMAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON
Mount Rainier rises above the parking lot of Willows Lodge and The Herbfarm in Woodinville.
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ot long ago, denizens of Seattle viewed Woodinville as “out in the sticks.” Then again, it wasn’t that far back that Bellevue was viewed merely as a suburb of the Emerald City rather than the fifth-largest city in the Evergreen State. And to a certain respect, anyone who recently built a promising winery or created a successful tasting room in Woodinville must first credit Chateau Ste. Michelle and then the
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rising cost of oil for helping transform this portion of King County into a wine destination. In the spring of 2008, the price of a gallon of gas eclipsed the $4 mark in the United States. Tasting rooms from Yakima to Walla Walla quickly felt that pinch at the pump in their tills. Folks in the Puget Sound couldn’t afford to visit their favorite winery on the dry side of the Cascades nearly as often. True, Woodinville doesn’t offer the
complete wine experience, but with the number of wineries within its industrial parks, there doesn’t seem to be the level of pretense that can run rampant in other wine regions. “The grapes aren’t grown right here, so you can’t compare this to Napa from that aspect, but with the wineries and the sense of community, there’s a great and huge buzz going on right here,” explained Barking Frog executive chef Bobby Moore.
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woodinville “And I can’t tell you of one winemaker around here who has a fat head because he’s got a big ego. They all are grounded — like Napa was 30 years ago,” Moore added with a smile. If you want to see commercial vines, you need to continue heading east on N.E. 145th Street to Hollywood Hills Vineyard. (The Snyders’ tasting room is on Woodinville-Redmond Road). Most of the rest of the 80-plus wineries and tasting rooms in the area rely on Eastern Washington for their grapes. And yet, a bucolic nature exists along the Sammamish River Valley, which is why Ron Zimmerman reestablished The Herbfarm restaurant in Woodinville in 2001. “Though the winery scene seemed robust at the time, the real explosion came later,” Zimmerman recalled. “Now with wineries, a protected agricultural zone on the valley floor, our own farm and grand views of Mount Rainier on clear days, The Herbfarm is, I think, perfectly sited for people to enjoy our Pacific Northwest fare, fine wines and great dining experience in the country conveniently located near Seattle.” A series of roundabouts along Woodinville-Redmond Road makes it easier to visit the tasting galleries on both sides of the valley’s main thoroughfare. In many instances, there are retail outlets and the focus is pouring wine for tourists looking to buy rather than those who are curious to see a barrel room and a production facility with tanks. Camaraderie rather than competition seems to serve as a common thread when visiting these wineries and tasting rooms. “There’s a growing awareness among wineries that what is good for one winery in Woodinville is very good for Woodinville winery tourism,” noted Jill Mayer, a 19-year resident of Woodinville who manages the year-old tasting gallery for Dusted Valley Vintners. “Patrons
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who recognize this fraternal cooperation have cited it as enhancing their experience while tasting in Woodinville.” While Walla Walla’s old airport provides arguably the premier wine touring experience with more than a dozen wineries within a pitching wedge of each other, Woodinville now rivals that. A quick look at the Woodinville map shows tourists they can economically visit more tasting rooms in a shorter period of time. The Woodinville Warehouse District, a 10-minute drive from Chateau Ste. Michelle, offers more than 30 wineries within an area about the size of a city block. And there are several clusters of wineries and tasting rooms within the district. Visitors can leave their autos behind for several segments if they do the weekend right and make arrangements to pamper themselves at Willows Lodge. For example, to the west of the lodge, there’s Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia, JM Cellars, Novelty HillJanuik and Woodhouse. Head east of the lodge, cross the Sammamish River Trail — which connects Redmond’s Marymoor Park and Bothell Landing — and there’s Airfield Estates, Alder Ridge, Alexandria Nicole, Amavi/Pepper Bridge, Bookwalter, Brian Carter, Cañon De Sol, Covey Run, Darby, DeLille, Dusted Valley, Goose Ridge, Hollywood Hills tasting room, Mark Ryan, Otis Kenyon, Ross Andrews and Zerba. Long Shadows is on the way. The proposed Woodinville Village will make it even more difficult for tourists to choose where to taste. “Hopefully, this wine village will take off when the economy kicks back up — and we can find $250 million to build it,” Moore said with a chuckle. “But still, all these tasting rooms are popping up daily. It’s insane.” As evidence, those who toured Woodinville on the Fourth of July and returned on Labor Day found
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another handful of tasting rooms had opened in just two months.
WINERIES C H AT E A U S T E . M I C H E L L E
IT DOESN’T HURT WHEN THE area’s anchor winery is the most famous and hospitable in the Northwest — Chateau Ste. Michelle. In fact, this 1.6-million-case showpiece long has ranked as one of the state’s top tourist attractions. (This writer — while a beer-spilling student at the University of Washington — took his tee-totaling mother and stepfather to visit Ste. Michelle in 1985.) The National Register of Historic Places listed the estate and gardens in 1980. Indeed, folks who don’t drink wine can make reservations for a garden tour on beautiful grounds that once were the home of Hollywood Farm and timber baron Frederick Stimson. Guests explore the background of the agriculture of the property, marvel at the boisterous peacocks that roam the grounds and learn of the history of grape growing and winemaking in Washington state. At the tasting room await some of the top wines in the world. And behind the chateau, there is one of the Northwest’s premier concert venues as Ste. Michelle lights its stage virtually every weekend during the summer. To book a Chateau Ste. Michelle tour, go to ste-michelle.com/winery/tastingTours. WOODINVILLE WINERIES
Across 145th Street stands a winery with nearly as much history — Columbia Winery. The original warehouse region is north of Ste. Michelle and Columbia and just south of Highway 522 and includes DiStefano, Facelli, Silver Lake, Tefft and Woodinville Wine Cellars. Essentially, there are several neighborhoods to Woodinville. The
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Some tasty treats whipped up by the chefs at Novelty HillJanuik.
Winemaker Mike Januik pours some wine at Novelty Hill-Januik.
Woodinville Warehouse Wineries district — which some affectionately refer to as “Hoodinville”— boasts more than 35 wineries within a 1-mile radius in Wine Area No. 2. The general address is 19501 144th Ave NE. Wine Area No. 1 is closing in on 10 wineries at the 18510 142nd Ave. NE address. At the moment, Efeste is the only one listed at Wine Area No. 3 — 19730 144th Ave. NE. But that is likely to change. Then there’s the Hollywood District, and just to the south is famed Betz Family Cellars. The state’s only Master of Wine, Bob Betz, is a former Ste. Michelle executive, and his winery with its small vineyard sits just inside the boundary between Woodinville and Redmond.
LODGING WILLOWS LODGE
To get the complete wine country experience, it’s impossible to do so without a weekend stay at Willows Lodge. Then again, it’s virtually the only game in town. “When Phil Sherburne built this 34
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property in the late ’90s, people thought he was nuts,” recalled Moore. “You’re going to build a what? In the middle of where? A boutique luxury lodge in the middle of Woodinville? Now look at it. This is the place to be.” Views from the 84 rooms show off the valley toward Mount Rainier in the distance, the Sammamish River, the Hollywood Schoolhouse, Chateau Ste. Michelle’s demonstration vineyard, Red Hook Brewery and the dwelling of Basil and Borage — the cute pot-bellied Vietnamese pigs whose diet depends upon surplus organic vegetables from their owners at The Herbfarm. While petting the swine is discouraged, inside Willows Lodge and next to the reception desk is Ruthie — a gentle and aging basset hound — resting on her doggie pillow. Biscuits for the official mascot of Willows Lodge are available. And there are dog-friendly rooms. Treats and libations for guests are nearly as easy to find. There’s the Fireside Grill across the hall from the reception desk. Across the valet driveway, there’s The Herbfarm to the left and Barking Frog straight ahead.
14580 NE 145th St., Woodinville, WA, 98072, 877-424-3930, willowslodge.com. While not well known, The Herbfarm has developed two overnight suites with Willows Lodge. For prices and information, go to theherbfarm.com/suites/ B&BS
There are a number of B&Bs that the Woodinville wine community notes, including L’Auberge Edge of Seattle French Country Inn (edgeofseattle.com), Matthews Estate B&B (matthewsestate.com) and Whispering Trees Farm (whisperingtrees.com).
RESTAUR ANTS TYPICALLY, WINERIES POPULATE A region and the restaurants follow. Then again, Woodinville’s road map to success is far from traditional because fine dining — The Herbfarm and the neighboring Barking Frog — preceded the proliferation of tasting rooms. “For us, having The Herbfarm here creates a culinary destination,” Moore said. “And we have a great relationship. If I run out of foie gras, I’ll run over and borrow foie from them. They come over and borrow things from us.”
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A wooden Indian looks out over the Alexandria Nicole Cellars tasting room.
There’s even a link to The Herbfarm off the Willows Lodge home page. A number of tasting rooms feature small plates, particularly Alexandria Nicole Cellars. Prosser-based Jarrod and Ali Boyle transformed the basement of the old Hollywood Schoolhouse, and beyond the secret passage is a second tasting bar where tapas are served afternoons Thursday through Sunday. Novelty Hill/Januik provides music, wine features and sells small plates from its acclaimed staff kitchen during its weekly Wednesday Wine’d Down. Artisan pizza is available weekend afternoons. Columbia Winery also offers flatbreads from executive chef Jeff Lantz’s oven, which are paired with Columbia wines and can be enjoyed on the patio east of the tasting room. BARKING FROG
In 2001, Moore left the acclaimed Fuller’s in the Seattle Sheraton for the opportunity to make his own history. And he has. “When I moved out here, people thought I was crazy,” Moore said. “They said, You know, you are moving out to the country. I said, ‘You
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know what? Parking is abundant. The air is clean. I can see Mount Rainier from here, and I have a 25minute drive to work’ — which is the only time I have to myself every day.” And if you have an appetite akin to Monty Python’s Mr. Creosote, there’s breakfast, lunch and dinner available 365 days each year. Start your day of touring after enjoying a vegetarian breakfast burrito, Brioche French toast or traditional Cascade Breakfast. In the afternoon, the truffled mac and cheese is a must. For more information, go to willowslodge.com/wine_dine/ T H E H E R B FA R M
A fire in 1997 — followed by government obstacles that prevented rebuilding — prompted Zimmerman to leave the Fall City site of his parents’ beloved plant nursery and first made The Herbfarm a mecca for Northwest wine lovers. The subsequent move to Woodinville has been a boon for the wine industry, and the nine-course dinner experience he, wife Carrie Van Dyck and new chef Tony Demes create for guests remains unsurpassed in the Northwest. And those who make the investment of time and money are
best served to bed across the driveway at Willows Lodge. Zimmerman’s wine inventory is unbeatable, which is why Wine Press Northwest named our annual wine list competition “The Herbies” and retired The Herbfarm after its eight consecutive years as “Best Northwest Wine List.” Sadly, many of Zimmerman’s prized bottles never made it to Woodinville, consumed instead by that electrical fire. 14590 NE 145th St., Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-485-5300, theherbfarm.com. PURPLE CAFE
The wine-country jewel among Larry Kurofsky’s four Seattle-area restaurants long has been a friend to Washington winemakers. This was his first, which he opened in 2001. Wine Press Northwest profiled it as a Match Maker in 2006. Now, Dusted Valley Vintners tasting gallery is right next door. Wine manager Katelyn Peil and the staff can create a delectable menu paired exclusively with Northwest wines. Suggested fare includes the calamari with Moroccan tomato aioli, free-range chicken Marsala and handmade sea-salt caramels for dessert. And there likely isn’t a more
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Willows Lodge
A label at Dusted Valley Vintners
cheerful server in Woodinville than Breauna, who happily commutes from Seattle because she enjoys working “in the country.” 14459 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE, Woodinville, WA 98072, 425-483-7129, thepurplecafe.com. FIRESIDE CELLARS
An understated gathering place, it’s unusual to not see at least one Woodinville winemaker talking shop here between 4 and 11 p.m. And it’s quite likely that vintner can find a bottle from his or her winery on the list. Tapas come from the Barking Frog kitchen. For more information, go to willowslodge.com/wine_dine/ WOODINVILLE CAFE
The Sunday morning line for comfort-food breakfast doesn’t drag too long, and filling your commuter mug with your hot drink of choice helps. Sonoma-based columnist Dan Berger, a critic of more than wine, rated this cafe’s corned beef hash among the best he’s ever had. 14170 NE Woodinville Duvall Road, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-489-1403. F O R E C A S T E R ’ S P U B AT R E D H O O K A L E B R E W E RY
One of the wine industry bromides is “It takes beer to make great wine,” and Woodinville boasts one of 36
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the largest breweries on the West Coast. Built in 1994, it’s also an ideal spot for lunch for the entire family. Massive is the footprint, sandwiched between Columbia Winery and the Willows Lodge guest parking. It’s open daily at 11 a.m. 14300 NE 145th St., Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-483-3232, ext. 1110, redhook.com. TEXAS SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-Q
If a smoky, bacony Syrah gets you thinking about barbecued meats, make this your next stop. Aromas that waft out of here drive tasting room managers crazy for a variety of reasons. It’s open for lunch and dinner daily. 14455 Woodinville-Redmond Road, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-486-1957, texas-smokehouse.com. B L A C K R AV E N B R E W I N G C O .
Technically, it’s just south of “the AVA” in a Redmond industrial park, but this taproom is worth experiencing. There’s a definite United Kingdom accent, and they’ve established a remarkable partnership with nearby Flying Saucer Pizza. Order your beer and ask for the pizza menu. Then you simply call the pizza house, place your order and they will deliver it to the Black Raven in 20 minutes. Suggested pair-
ings include the house porter with Ming The Merciless pie. 14687 NE 95th St., Redmond, WA, 98052, 425-881-3020, blackravenbrewing.com.
COFFEE T U L LY ’ S
Tully’s, south of the Hollywood Schoolhouse, is where most industry folks go. And there’s free Wi-Fi. Tully’s Coffee Hollywood Vineyard, 14481 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE, Woodinville, 98072, 425-402-4937. J AVA T O G O
Java To Go, a small drive-thru coffee stand in the Apple Farm Village across from the Hollywood Schoolhouse, provides friendly service, teas and Italian sodas. 145525 148th Ave. NE, Woodinville, 98072, 425-485-7890, applefarmvillage.com.
WINE SHOPS VILLAGES WINES
Billed as “a place to gather,” it’s where a number of winemakers and tasting room managers noted they enjoy sending guests. It is open seven days a week, leaving the basement of Apple Farm Village for a new and bigger location just south
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Forecaster’s Pub at Redhook Ale Brewery
from the Hollywood Schoolhouse. The focus of the 5-year-old shop is Northwest wine, but there also are two regional beers on tap and bottled international beers. Complimentary and reserve pours are available, and there’s now outside seating for folks to enjoy small plates or deli meats and cheeses with fresh bread. Entrees to go are available. 14545 148th Ave. NE, No. 211, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-485-3536.
TRANSPORTATION
making process, particularly during harvest.
use. Expect to find Pabst Blue Ribbon rather than microbrews.
14710 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-481-5502, noveltyhilljanuik.com for information.
14508 Woodinville-Redmond Road, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-488-0630.
C O N C E RT S
Chateau Ste. Michelle has played host to outdoor performances since 1984. Its Summer Concert Series at the amphitheatre includes the twoday KWJZ Music Festival, which ranks among the best contemporary jazz shows in the country. Visit ste-michelle.com/events/concerts for the schedule.
WINE TOURS
Seattle-based Bon Vivant Wine Tours (bonvivanttours.com) was highly recommended by many because they know Woodinville so well. For other recommended options, visit the Woodinville Wine Country site at woodinvillewinecountry.com
ACTIVITIES AUTUMN CREATES SPECIAL OPportunities for wine lovers because the wineries are bringing in fruit. Several provide visitors a chance to see the winemakers in action. WAT C H I N G W I N E M A K I N G
Perhaps the best is Novelty HillJanuik because it was designed to facilitate guests’ viewing of the wine-
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S A LT W O R K S
This sea salt company has been discovered by wine tourists looking to expand their knowledge of salt and its origins. A small showroom features samples of products from around the world. Hours are 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekdays, and the building is in the industrial park just north of Novelty Hill/Januik. 15000 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE, Suite B-900, Woodinville, 98072, 425-885-7258, saltworks.us. T H E H O L LY W O O D TAV E R N
This little white neighborhood watering hole originally was a gas station before the Great Depression. In time, it evolved into Mabel’s, the name that some of its patrons still
EVENT VENUES
Wedding bells in the distance? Most of the wineries play host to special events, and Chateau Ste. Michelle and Novelty Hill/Januik have developed their own culinary teams for such events.
MORE INFO ıϧ W O O D I N V I L L E
W I N E C O U N T RY , headed up by longtime executive director Cynthia Dasté, organizes several events, including the wildly successful Passport to Woodinville weekend when virtually every winery and tasting room is open, woodinvillewinecountry.com
ıϧ W O O D I N V I L L E DISTRICT,
WA R E H O U S E
woodwarewine.com.
ıϧ G R E AT E R
WOODINVILLE
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, woodinvillechamber.org. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press
Northwest. Email him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her Web site is WineCountr yCreations.com.
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WINE COUNTRY: WILLAMETTE VALLEY
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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY
We produce elegant Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from our Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge estate vineyards. These luxurious wines showcase the distinctive terroir of the Walla Walla Valley.
Pepper Bridge Winery 1704 J.B. George Road, Walla Walla, WA 99362 509-525-6502 Open daily 10 am - 4 pm • www.pepperbridge.com Now also open in Woodinville, behind the Hollywood Schoolhouse!
840 "C" St. Walla Walla, WA We are dedicated to making the finest wines in the Walla Walla valley for that special occasion with friends, family or both. Open Sat. 10-4 Special Events & by appt
509-527-8400 www.fivestarcellars.com
We craft elegant, approachable, award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Semillon. A small, family operation, we farm sustainably for the benefit of future generations.
Amavi Cellars
3796 Peppers Bridge Rd., Walla Walla, WA 99362
509-525-3541 Tasting Room Hours: Daily 11 am to 5 pm www.amavicellars.com Now also open in Woodinville, behind the Hollywood Schoolhouse!
225 Vineyard Lane - off Mill Creek Road Open Friday afternoons and Saturdays Or by appointment.
509-525-4724 For more info please visit: www.wallawallavintners.com 40
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WINE COUNTRY: WALLA WALLA VALLEY Present this coupon for 10% off your next wine purchase Tasting Room Open Daily 11 AM - 4 PM
33 West Birch Street Downtown Walla Walla www.forgeroncellars.com • 509-522-9463
Semillon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Red & White Blends Open daily 10am to 5pm • 509-525-0940 12 miles west of Walla Walla on Hwy 12 41 Lowden School Road • Lowden • Washington www.lecole.com
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The Herbies Wine Press Northwest’s 12th annual Great Northwest Wine List Competition BY ERIC DEGERMAN
A RT W O R K B Y K E N S U S Y N S K I
IT APPEARS AS IF MAYBE THE WORST IS BEHIND US. A year ago, there were fears that another Great Depression was knocking at our door with a tin cup. Thankfully, regardless of who deserves what credit, we haven’t seen soup lines in Northwest wine country. If many of the restaurants listed in the 12th annual Great Northwest Wine List Awards — aka “The Herbies” — look familiar, that’s great. It means they’re still in business, and their support of Northwest wines should be considered a key ingredient to the recipe for continued success. Ron Zimmerman of The Herbfarm — this competition’s namesake — uses this edition of his annual sidebar for Wine Press Northwest to note the recession actually added a spark to the rapid expansion of Washington wine into the Woodinville area. In tough times, virtually every business searches for new revenue streams near and far. And were it not for Hedges Family Estates, the Herbfarm may not exist today. Fire claimed the original restaurant in Fall City in the winter of 1997. Subsequent zoning issues caused The Herbfarm to become a political hot potato in rural King County and turned Zimmerman’s business into a
BEST NORTHWEST WINE LIST i
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Economy trimmed the list, but there are still 29 pages of fabulous and famous Northwest wines at moderate prices. Among the star-studded lineup are Argyle, Barnard Griffin, Beaux Frères, Coeur PROGRAM:
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nomadic operation for several years. “Exhausted and cash strapped, working out of tents and trailers and on the verge of bankruptcy after limping along for two years, we moved the restaurant operations to the Hedges wine cellar in Issaquah,” he said. Then in 2001, Zimmerman and co-owner/wife Carrie Van Dyck moved to their garden spot along the Sammamish River. And they dominated our wine list competition for the next eight years. We retired the Herbfarm as champion in 2008 and named the competition in Zimmerman’s honor. Meanwhile, The Ocean Crest Resort near the tiny coastal town of Moclips, Wash., pulled off a “three peat” as our Best Northwest Wine List, winning “The Herbie” for the third straight year. Wine director Stephen Pavletich’s support of Washington received validation for the second straight year by winning the Washington Wine Grand Award from the Washington Wine Commission. And each year, we use the Wine Press Northwest/Herbfarm wine list competition to determine candidates for future restaurant features. Restaurants among our Match Maker alumni are denoted with an “i .”
d’Alene, Dunham, Januik, K Vintners, Leonetti, McCrea, Long Shadows, Osoyoos Larose, Quilceda Creek, Woodward Canyon, Ken Wright. P O L I C I E S : Broadening promotion of coastal connections includes Cadaretta, Reynvaan, Walter Dacon, Westport. P R E S S I N G S : Speed-skating great Apolo Ohno calls it his “favorite place to stay.” 4651 Highway 101, Moclips, Wash., 98562, 800-684-8439, oceancrestresort.com
OUTSTANDING NORTHWEST WINE LISTS B O N N E V I L L E H O T S P R I N G S R E S O RT, B O N N E V I L L E , WA S H . P R O G R A M : List shows some transitioning away from local wineries to more famous and expensive Northwest producers, but more than a dozen Columbia Gorge wineries are featured. P O L I C I E S : During summer
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months, outdoor garden available for dining with wine. P R E S S I N G S : Map of Columbia Gorge wineries available to visitors. 1252 E. Cascade Dr., North Bonneville, Wash, 98639, 509-427-9711, bonnevilleresort.com. B R I D G E WAT E R B I S T R O , A S T O R I A P R O G R A M : Tony Kischner, formerly at the Shoalwater on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, understandably leans a bit more toward Oregon now, especially with whites and nearly 30 different Pinot Noirs, including Napa Valley transplant Robert Brittan. P O L I C I E S : By-the-glass values from Abacela, A-to-Z, Stimson and Waterbrook also available by carafe. Idaho Riesling by Ste. Chapelle remains. P R E S S I N G S : Rosé category lists five Northwest pinks. Sweet tooth shows with more than 20 dessert wines.
20 Basin St., Suite A, Astoria, OR, 97103, 503-325-6777, bridgewaterbistro.com. i
C O P P E R L E A F R E S TA U R A N T, S E ATA C
Blaine Walker’s seafood-friendly list reads “We Love Northwest Wines!” and it’s virtually 100 percent from Oregon and Washington. P O L I C I E S : Five NW rosés available in summer by glass for $8 or less. P R E S S I N G S : Long Sword, new sparking house in Oregon’s Applegate Valley, gets placement with its prosecco-style bubbly. 4201 Pacific Way, Seaview, WA, 98644, 360-642-2323, 42ndstreetcafe.com. PA R A D I S E I N N D I N I N G R O O M , PA R A D I S E , WA S H . P R O G R A M : Concessionaire at Mount Rainier National Park’s recently renovated landmark keeps it brief, yet features large, reliable producers from Washington, Oregon and Idaho. P O L I C I E S : Most expensive bottle is Ste. Michelle’s Cabernet Sauvignon ($35), which pairs nicely with the Venison Shepherd’s Pie. P R E S S I N G S : Gift shop sells only one wine: Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot ($17).
Paradise Inn, Mount Rainier National Park,
360-569-2275, mtrainierguestservices.com. i
S U N M O U N TA I N LODGE, W I N T H R O P, WA S H .
P R O G R A M : Don Elsing’s 30-page book contains 390 wines from Washington, 41 from Oregon, 2 from British Columbia and an Idaho ice wine from Ste. Chapelle. P O L I C I E S : Guests want local wines, so “mountain logo” goes next to North Central Washington entries. P R E S S I N G S : There are 82 Washington, 22 Oregon wineries represented. Recently staged a 3-day winemaker dinner seriers with Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Bob Bertheau.
604 Patterson Lake Road, Winthrop, WA, 98862, 800-572-0493, sunmountainlodge.com.
P R O G R A M : Short list is virtually all Northwest, which fits in with theme of property. Oregon checks in with Pinots red and white. P O L I C I E S : Most reds come off list at $70 or less, including Tamarack Firehouse Red ($36). PRESSINGS:
Wineries using sustainable practices are denoted on list with green leaf. Cedarbrook Lodge, 18525 36th Ave. S., Seattle, WA, 98188, 206-901-9268, cedarbrooklodge.com. 42ND STREET CAFE, S E AV I E W PROGRAM:
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Ocean Crest Resort in Moclips, Wash., has a beautiful view of the wooded shoreline from its dining room.
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the herbies Elliott Bay allows it to introduce tourists to Northwest wines, especially those made with “salmon-safe” practices. P O L I C I E S : Company won Victor Roselinni Restaurant Award from Washington Wine Commission in 1995. P R E S S I N G S : Atop list of signature cocktails is Northwest Kir, which uses Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut as base. 2201 Alaskan Way, Seattle, WA 98121, 206-448-6688, anthonys.com A N T H O N Y ’ S AT C O L U M B I A P O I N T, RICHLAND
Regional focus spotlights Yakima Valley, Walla Walla wineries, with glass pours just $5 during happy hour. P O L I C I E S : Washington dry rosé taster ($9) offers samples of Barnard Griffin, Chinook and Dusted Valley. P R E S S I N G S : Wine manager Eric Zegzula is Washington Wine Commission’s reigning “Sommelier of the Year.” PROGRAM:
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C A M P B E L L’ S B I S T R O , C H E L A N
The headline atop the list at the Campbell’s Resort dining room shouts “Wine Press Northwest Magazine’s Best Washington Wine List” since 2004. George Van Over’s reign is not over. P O L I C I E S : Of Lake Chelan’s 16 wineries, 10 are represented. A dozen half-bottles from NW all-star producers, most for less than $23. PRESSINGS: Smiley faces symbolize personal NW faves. Of 20 bestowed, nearby Nefarious leads with 5. PROGRAM:
104 W. Woodin, Chelan, WA, 98816, 800-553-8225, dineatcampbells.com.
OUTSTANDING WASHINGTON WINE LIST A N T H O N Y ’ S P I E R 6 6 , S E AT T L E PROGRAM:
Popular location on
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550 Columbia Point Dr., Richland, WA, 99352, 509-946-3474, anthonys.com. BARKING FROG, WOODINVILLE P R O G R A M : One of the Northwest’s most renowned resorts breaks out Woodinville in the first half, profiling about 30 wineries, listing the winemaker at each. Second half leads with “Washington beyond Woodinville,” where Alexandria Nicole, McCrea and Walla Walla reign. P O L I C I E S : Standing category on glass pour is “Woodinville Features,” which spotlights a red and a white from one winery within the city limits. P R E S S I N G S : “Barking Feature” often showcases a little-known Northwest winery, such as Haystack Needle, usually at an approachable price.
Barking Frog, 14580 NE 145th St., Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-424-2999, willowslodge.com/wine_dine/ C A F E F L O R A , S E AT T L E PROGRAM:
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King Estate, Snoqualmie’s “Naked” whites, Illahe’s Grüner Veltliner and Mount Baker stand out on limited list. P O L I C I E S : GM Nat Stratton-Clarke built Northwest-heavy list, which jibes with his mission to support local organic farms. P R E S S I N G S : Regularly voted Seattle’s best vegetarian restaurant by several organizations. 2901 E. Madison St., Seattle, WA, 98112, 206-325-9100, cafeflora.com C H U R C H I L L’ S S T E A K H O U S E , SPOKANE P R O G R A M : Big reds from famed Walla Walla producers, including new Drew Bledsoe/Chris Figgins Doubleback Cab ($170). Hometown bubbles by Mountain Dome. Nice showing by smaller labels Buty, Forgeron, Maison Bleue and Va Piano. Value with Milbrandt Traditions line, Alexandria Nicole’s Quarry Butte. P O L I C I E S : Private wine lockers allow “owners” to buy wines below list price. P R E S S I N G S : The house Cab ($56) comes from Lake Roosevelt vines and made by Whitestone’s Michael Haig.
165 S. Post, Spokane, WA, 99201, 509-474-9888, churchillssteakhouse.com. M A S S E L O W ’ S R E S TA U R A N T, A I RWAY H E I G H T S P R O G R A M : Inland Empire wineries get page 1 billing at Northern Quest Resort & Casino’s dining room with more than a dozen featured. P O L I C I E S : Among bargains are Barnard Griffin Merlot ($28), Dusted Valley Cab ($43), L’Ecole Syrah ($35), Rex Hill Pinot Noir ($40), Long Shadows Poet’s Leap Riesling ($30). P R E S S I N G S : Grey Monk Pinot Blanc from British Columbia on offer for $26.
Masselow’s Restaurant, Northern Quest Resort & Casino, 100 N. Hayford Road, Airway Heights, WA, 99001, 509-242-7000, northernquest.com/dining/masselows.
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PICAZO 7SEVENTEEN WINE BAR & R E S TA U R A N T, P R O S S E R
P R O G R A M : Yakima Valley producers dominate Trina Cortez’s list, which fits “Northwest fare with Spanish flair” slogan. P O L I C I E S : Corkage is $25 for California wines, $15 for others. P R E S S I N G S : Wednesdays turn lively because of specials on “Industry Night.” Already busy chef/owner Frank Magaña now also runs Mojave in nearby Desert Wind Winery.
717 Sixth St., Prosser, WA 99350, 509-786-1116, picazo717.com. PURPLE, BELLEVUE P R O G R A M : Walla Walla, rather than Woodinville, wines seem favored. Tasting flights typically pit one NW wine vs. 2-3 from elsewhere. Full page of Oregon Pinot Noir. P O L I C I E S : If they don’t carry that wine, corkage on first bottle is waived. P R E S S I N G S : It’s a 72-page beverage list, so servers must be accustomed to waiting.
430 106th Ave. NE, Bellevue, WA, 98004, 425-502-6292, thepurplecafe.com. PURPLE, KIRKLAND P R O G R A M : Similar program to Bellevue, but with only 44 pages and a bit more adventure with young wineries such as Airfield, Alexandria Nicole, Angel Vine, Efeste, Maysara. P O L I C I E S : If it’s wine-by-the-glass, you can try before you buy. P R E S S I N G S : One flight of four whites features DiStefano (Sauv Blanc), King Estate’s next (Riesling), Kyra (Chenin Blanc) and Winter’s Hill (Pinot Gris.) Mission Hill 1992 ice wine stands out.
323 Park Place Center, Kirkland, WA, 98033, 425-828-3772, thepurplecafe.com. P U R P L E , S E AT T L E P R O G R A M : Christene Larsen oversees lists — which carry no capital letters — at all 4 properties. At 88 pages, this is the biggest and includes thoughtful array of lesserknown Oregon Pinot Noir. P O L I C I E S : Many of these wines
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can go out the door for 40 percent off list price. P R E S S I N G S : Rarely seen Corliss found here. “Homegrown” red flight spotlights youngsters Brand, Corvidae, Fall Line, Maison Bleue. 1225 Fourth Ave., Seattle, 98101, 206-829-2280, thepurplecafe.com i
PURPLE, WOODINVILLE
Among tasting rooms within walking distance on list are Alexandria Nicole, Brian Carter, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Darby, DeLille, Dusted Valley, Januik, JM, Long Shadows, Mark Ryan. P O L I C I E S : Buy a case of your fave? Ask them about retail pricing. P R E S S I N G S : Glossary of terms in back makes for dinner conversation. PROGRAM:
14459 Woodinville-Redmond Road NE, Woodinville, WA, 98072, 425-483-7129, thepurplecafe.com. T H E M E LT I N G P O T, S P O K A N E
Walla Walla and Willamette valleys show up in abundance on this international list, particularly with big reds and Pinot Noir. P O L I C I E S : Local vintners include Arbor Crest, Barrister, BridgePress, Coeur d’Alene, Mountain Dome, Latah Creek, Lone Canary, Nodland, Robert Karl, Townshend. P R E S S I N G S : Va Piano red blend named for Gonzaga’s Father Bruno raises funds for outreach program he founded. PROGRAM:
Crescent Building, Second Floor, 707 W. Main Ave., Spokane, WA, 99201, 509-926-8000, spokanemp.com. T U L A L I P B AY R E S TA U R A N T, T U L A L I P P R O G R A M : Tommy Thompson offers 200+ wines from Washington as well as Oregon Pinot Noir at Tulalip Resort Casino’s fine-dining spot. P O L I C I E S : Each multi-course dinner by James Beard invitee Dean Shinagawa can be ordered with wine pairings. List of winemaker dinners includes Spring Valley, Betz, Quilceda, DeLille, Lachini, Andrew Will, Barage, Grand Reve.
The Joel Palmer House is back in the garden spot as our Best Oregon Wine List.
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P R E S S I N G S : Nice touch to carry many of Northwest Totem Cellars’ acclaimed wines.
10200 Quil Ceda Blvd., Tulalip, WA, 98271, 360-716-1500, tulalipresort.com T U S C A N Y R U S T I C I TA L I A N B I S T R O , PROSSER P R O G R A M : Focus is Prosser-area wineries, with featured wineries available as glass pours. P O L I C I E S : Wines on list priced at near retail. P R E S S I N G S : Chef/owner Jessie Ayala, born/raised in Prosser, went through South Seattle CC acclaimed culinary program.
602 Sixth St., Prosser, WA, 99350, 509-786-7600, eattuscany.com. i
VA L L E Y C A F E , E L L E N S B U R G
P R O G R A M : Gregory Beach made commitment to pair cuisine with Washington wines in 1981. P O L I C I E S : List is 90 percent Washington. Featured winery of the month includes public tasting during First Friday Art Walk. P R E S S I N G S : Wine shop in adjacent deli.
105 W. Third Ave., Ellensburg, WA, 98926, 509-925-3050, valleycafeellensburg.com. V I S C O N T I ’ S R E S T O R A N T E I TA L I A N O , L E AV E N W O RT H P R O G R A M : More than half of the 500+ list is Washington, which includes 100 entries from the Columbia Cascade region. P O L I C I E S : Affordable pricing of local wines. P R E S S I N G S : Co-owner/chef Daniel Carr continues to oversee the wine program.
636 Front St., Leavenworth, WA, 98826, 509-548-1213. viscontis.com. V I S C O N T I ’ S R E S T O R A N T E I TA L I A N O , W E N AT C H E E P R O G R A M : Candy Mecham’s original restaurant sticks closer to Wenatchee-area wineries. Back is loaded with big Washington reds. P O L I C I E S : Nice snapshots of older vintages from some Walla Walla legends.
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P R E S S I N G S : Restaurant celebrated its 25th anniversary Jan. 1.
1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Wenatchee, WA, 98801, 509-662-5013, viscontis.com.
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P R O G R A M : More than 500 Pinot Noirs to pick from, including more than 20 half bottles, makes it the quintessential list for Oregon wine country. P O L I C I E S : Second-generation chef Christopher Czarnecki includes page for wines he’s recently sampled to help guests with selections. P R E S S I N G S : Needs wineries that start with U and X to complete alphabet. Stag Hollow winemaker Mark Huff creates house Pinot Noir.
Joel Palmer House, 600 Ferry St., Dayton, OR, 97114, 503-864-2995,
joelpalmerhouse.com.
OUTSTANDING OREGON WINE LIST A D A M ’ S S U S TA I N A B L E TA B L E , EUGENE P R O G R A M : Sourcing organic, allnatural ingredients primarily from 75-mile radius. P O L I C I E S : Colored dots indicate level of sustainable practices at winery. Pink is highest. P R E S S I N G S : Executive chef Adam Bernstein, grad of New York’s Culinary Institute of America, is regular participant in McMinnville’s International Pinot Noir Celebration.
30 E. Broadway, Eugene, OR, 97401, 541-344-6948, thesustainabletable.com. A N T H O N Y ’ S AT T H E O L D M I L L D I S T R I C T, B E N D PROGRAM:
Recession not all bad in Woodinville Seattle wine lovers benefit from efforts to bring the wine closer to them. WOODINVILLE, Wash. — hen I was growing up along the green fringe east of Seattle, the kid next door announced one day that his family was decamping to Woodinville. Whaaaa …Woodinville! The. End. Of. The. Earth. As if to prove it, I never saw him again. Now, a few decades later, I’m happily ensconced in that very same town. But it’s not the same place. The hunters and the horsey set of the valley floor have pretty much been replaced by vintners and happy bon vivants transported on four wheels, not four legs, as they travel from winery to crush pad to tasting room.
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of NW wines has centerpiece as “Oregon’s Three Ps” — Pinot Noir, Gris and Blanc. There’s state-grown Chardonnay, too. P O L I C I E S : Seasonality offering of “warm-weather wines” by glass directs guests to wines by Erath, Foris, R. Stuart’s Big Fire. P R E S S I N G S : Map of Oregon appellations includes note that more than 50% of state’s 13,700 acres are planted to Pinot Noir. Diners feast on views of Deschutes River, Mount Bachelor and Three Sisters. 475 SW Powerhouse Dr., Bend, OR, 97702, 541-389-8998, anthonys.com i C A S C A D E D I N I N G R O O M AT TIMBERLINE LODGE, MOUNT HOOD P R O G R A M : 5-time Oregon past champion remains strong with Oregon Pinot Noir, isn’t shy on Washington reds, either. Young Gorge winery Springhouse Cellar checks in with four placines. P O L I C I E S : More than 20 wines by glass. Weekly staff meetings give
Woodinville is now the wine mecca for the greater Puget Sound region. In addition to the early pioneers such as Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia and DeLille, the valley is now home to, well, no one knows for sure how many wineries. There are at least 60. And maybe 80 or more when all of the tasting rooms are counted. Ironically, the recession has been beneficial to wine drinkers in the Seattle area. By cutting out the middle layer of distribution, wineries happily sell directly to the tasting public. And what better place to do it than by opening in Woodinville, a mere 20 minutes from Seattle? So load up the car and make a day or weekend of it. We also await you, ready to fete you with a legendary nine-course dinner and the largest selection of Northwest wines found in any restaurant in the world. Here’s to Northwest wines. Cheers!
— RON ZIMMERMAN C O - P R O P R I E T O R , T H E H E R B FA R M
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the herbies servers confidence. P R E S S I N G S : Jason Stoller Smith, who left Timberline Lodge for Dundee Bistro in 2002, returns to replace his retired mentor — legendary Leif Erickson — as executive chef. The Cascade Dining Room, Timberline Lodge, OR, 97028, 503-622-0700, timberlinelodge.com. i
C E L I L O R E S TA U R A N T A N D B A R , HOOD RIVER
P R O G R A M : Columbia Gorge focus represents more than 10 different wineries. P O L I C I E S : Corkage is $20/ $40 for magnum. P R E S S I N G S : Reserve list includes Pinot Noir from classic 1999 vintage.
Celilo Restaurant and Bar, 16 Oak St., Hood River, OR, 97031, 541-386-5710, celilorestaurant.com. COLUMBIA GORGE HOTEL, HOOD RIVER P R O G R A M : GM Paul Robinson, well-known among Columbia Basin
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restaurateurs, has restored this historic property and renewed its reputation for supporting Northwest wineries. P O L I C I E S : Return of winemaker dinner series includes Wade Wolfe of Thurston Wolfe in Prosser. P R E S S I N G S : New home for Northwest Wine Summit competition. Columbia Gorge Hotel, 4000 Westcliff Dr., Hood River, OR, 97031, 800-345-1921, columbiagorgehotel.com CORK & STEIN BISTRO, SPRINGFIELD P R O G R A M : Pour list features nearly two dozen wines, including Four Graces, Sweet Cheeks, Melrose, Volcano, nearby Silvan Ridge and Julianna. P O L I C I E S : Jacqueline “Jax” Girard serves only Oregon wines. Free tasting with single winery each Friday. P R E S S I N G S : Bought wine/beer shop, transitioned into small-plates service. Follow “Jax” on Twitter.
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The Cork & Stein Bistro, 2108 Main St. Springfield, OR, 97477, 541-736-9463, corknstein.com i
DUNDEE BISTRO, DUNDEE
Wines throughout Oregon featured in this wine country restaurant/wine shop owned by the Ponzi family. P O L I C I E S : Weekly wine seminars required for staff. Each wine is poured into Riedel. P R E S S I N G S : Second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi oversees list, which also caters to local winemakers with international entries. PROGRAM:
Dundee Bistro, 100-A SW Seventh St., Dundee, OR, 97115, 503-554-1650, dundeebistro.com. J O RY, N E W B E R G
The Allison Inn & Spa and manager/sommelier Tom Bean take Burgundy vs. Willamette angle to the 30-page list. P O L I C I E S : Corkage is $20, with 2-bottle limit. PROGRAM:
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the herbies 12817 Lakeshore Dr., Summerland Waterfront Resort & Spa, Summerland, BC, V0H 1Z1, 250-494-8855, thelocalgroup.ca.
OUTSTANDING B.C. WINE LISTS B I S T R O 1 0 1 AT T H E PA C I F I C I N S T I T U T E O F C U L I N A RY A RT S , VA N C O U V E R
Christa-Lee McWatters Bond and her husband Cameron run Local Lounge & Grill in Summerland, B.C. P R E S S I N G S : Many ways to experiment with more than 50 wines available as tastes, glass pours, more than dozen half bottles.
2525 Allison Lane, Newberg, OR, 97132, 503-554-2525, theallison.com. FIVE SPICE SEAFOOD & WINE BAR, LAKE OSWEGO
Nice assortment of not only Oregon reds/whites, but also quality from Washington. P O L I C I E S : Tip from subscriber in Portland raved about Sunday nights when wines are half-price. P R E S S I N G S : Abacela enters rarified air as cult wine with 2005 Reserve Tempranillo at $125. PROGRAM:
315 First St., Suite 201, Lake Oswego, OR, 97034, 503-697-8889, fivespicerestaurant.com. RIVERSIDE GRILL, HOOD RIVER P R O G R A M : Jan McCartan ensures that Best Western’s Hood River Inn supports Columbia Gorge wineries, listing nearly 20 of them. P O L I C I E S : Most bottles available for less than $50. Staff collaborates
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P R O F I L E : Granville Island academy instructs students with regional ingredients, so provincial wines dominate. Sommelier Tim Ellison’s keen knowledge of Okanagan shows with CedarCreek Ehrenfelser, Lake Breeze Pinot Blanc, Wild Goose’s Mystic River Gewürz, Hester Creek Merlot. P O L I C I E S : “Best of B.C.” wine flights feature 2-ounce tastes of 3 wines. Voth Photography P R E S S I N G S : No B.C. Rieslings and just two total — Ste. Michelle and Dr. Loosen’s “L” from the with Viento’s Rich Cushman on Mosel. house “cask” red, a Sangio/Barbera blend that’s $15 for half-liter. Bistro 101 at the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts, 1505 W. Second Ave., P R E S S I N G S : Restaurant observes Vancouver, B.C., V6H 3Y4, 604-734-4488, its 45th anniversary this year.
Hood River Inn, 1108 E. Marina Way, Hood River, OR, 97031, 541-386-2200, hoodriverinn.com.
BEST B.C. WINE LIST LOCAL LOUNGE & GRILLE, SUMMERLAND P R O F I L E : All wines on 16-page list come from 100-kilometer radius. Distance is listed. P O L I C I E S : Only wines with Vintner’s Quality Alliance earn spot. More than 20 available as 3-ounce pours, with three ice wines as 2-ounce tastes. P R E S S I N G S : Christa-Lee McWatters Bond resigned from nearby Sumac Ridge (4 km) to launch this with her husband, Cameron, and famous father Harry McWatters.
bistro101.com
F E T C H R E S TA U R A N T, U C L U E L E T P R O F I L E : Remote luxury resort on Vancouver Island’s west coast gears cuisine/list to provincial ingredients. P O L I C I E S : Wine cellar, carved into coastal rocks, is temperature controlled by seawater with views of Pacific. P R E S S I N G S : One travel writer likened this $50M complex to something owned by a James Bond villain.
Fetch, Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, Marine Dr., Ucluelet, B.C. V0R 3A0, 250-726-4800, blackrockresort.com/ O ’ D O U L’ S R E S TA U R A N T & B A R , VA N C O U V E R P R O G R A M : Listel Hotel jazz club continues to spotlight Blue Mountain, Burrowing Owl, Joie, Kettle Valley, LaFrenz. Blue Mountain
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The Orchard House, Caldwell, Idaho
Pinot Noir, Wild Goose Riesling, JoieFarm pink available by half-liter. P O L I C I E S : Mission Hill’s Prospector Chardonnay a bargain at $18. P R E S S I N G S : Economy must be picking up. Wine director Calvin DesChene reports seeing more Washington, Oregon license plates. 1300 Robson St., Vancouver, BC V6E 1C5, 604-661-1406, odoulsrestaurant.com.
BEST IDAHO WINE LIST i
THE ORCHARD HOUSE, CALDWELL
P R O G R A M : If it’s not made in the Snake River Valley AVA, it won’t be sold here. P O L I C I E S : Bottles sold virtually at retail prices. P R E S S I N G S : Miceli Winery doesn’t have formal tasting room, so Sherri McCoy and Kris Thompson pour tastes of his wine on request.
14949 Sunnyslope Road, Highway 55, Caldwell, Idaho, 83607, 208-459-8200, theorchardhouse.us.
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OUTSTANDING IDAHO WINE LISTS i
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P R O G R A M : Idaho’s industry takes center stage with more than 20 instate wineries represented, including hard-to-find reds from Fraser Vineyard. P O L I C I E S : Most wines priced near retail and less than $40. A taste of Vale’s Riesling is just $2.75. P R E S S I N G S : Call ahead to reserve chef Dustan Bristol’s lacquered bacon.
320 11th Ave. S., Nampa, ID, 83651, 208-468-0029, brick29.com. i
R E D F E AT H E R L O U N G E , B O I S E
Past award winner returns with renewed focus on Northwest wines and local farmers. P O L I C I E S : “Probably the No. 1 restaurant in Idaho educating customers on all the great wines in
Idaho, Oregon and Washington,” a nominating winery owner wrote. P R E S S I N G S : Blue lighting of glass spiral staircase/wine storage ranks among most unique features in Northwest wine country. 246 N. Eighth St., Boise, ID, 83702, 208-429-6340, justeatlocal.com. THE SANDBAR RIVER HOUSE, MARSING P R O F I L E : Fans of Ste. Chapelle can find 10 of their favorite wines, none priced at more than $19. P O L I C I E S : Remains perhaps Northwest’s least expensive wine list. More than 30 wines available, only one is more than $30 — Davis Creek Tempranillo ($30.95.) P R E S S I N G S : Restaurant overlooks Snake River with distinctive Lizard Butte rock formation just beyond.
18 Sandbar Ave., Marsing, Idaho, 83639, 208-896-4124, sandbarriverhouse.com.
PROGRAM:
ERIC DEGERMAN is managing editor of Wine Press
Northwest. Email him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. KE N S U S Y N S KI is a Seattle artist who specializes in wine countr y art and whose artwork has accompanied this competition’s results since 2001. His website is susynski.com.
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Iberian Peninsula Spanish and Portuguese varieties catch on in the Northwest BY ANDY PERDUE AND ERIC DEGERMAN P HOTOGRAPHS BY J A C K I E J O H N S T O N
O
ne of the fun aspects of the Pacific Northwest wine industry is the sheer breadth of varieties grown, thanks to our region’s myriad microclimates and our adventurous winemakers and grape growers. For wine lovers, this means ample opportunities to explore varieties and styles of wine we might not otherwise see. In the past decade, a growing number of wineries have begun to crush grapes traditionally found on Europe’s Iberian Peninsula, a region that includes Spain and Portugal. Tempranillo in particular has gained popularity in the Northwest in recent years, so we thought a judging focused on these varieties was in order. We included Grenache (Garnacha in Spain) to round out the competition. And the big surprise was that the top wine was a white — the Albariño from Coyote Canyon Winery in Prosser, Wash. Frank Magaña, owner/chef of Picazo 7Seventeen in Prosser and one of our judges, is particularly excited about these styles of wines. “We’ve been waiting for the Spanish varieties to arrive in the Northwest,” Magaña said. “We seek them out and currently have three Tempranillos and the Coyote Canyon Albariño on our list.” Magaña said the tannin structure of Tempranillo tends to pair well
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with many dishes. “They always work very well with our meat paella and the chimichurri hangar steak.” Joining Magaña in the judging were Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist; Coke Roth, an international wine judge; Paul Sinclair, a member of Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel; and Bob Woehler, the dean of Northwest wine writers and Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. The judging was held in early August at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash. Here are the results:
OUTSTANDING Coyote Canyon Winery $17 2009 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Albariño, Horse Heaven Hills For 16 years, Mike Andrews has tended his estate vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, and he launched his Prosser, Wash., winery in 2006. Coyote Canyon is one of the few Northwest wineries to craft this Spanish white variety, and this is a beauty. It opens with aromas of limes, lemons, gooseberries, apricots and Asian pears, followed by a luscious palate with flavors of apricots and pineapples. A bit of residual sugar rounds out the bright acidity. Pair with spicy prawns, paella or crab dip. (169 cases, 13.9% alc.) Milbrandt Vineyards $25 2008 The Estates Grenache, Wahluke Slope Butch and Jerry Milbrandt grew up in the Columbia Basin and began planting wine grapes in the mid-1990s. They launched their own winery with the 2005 vintage, and longtime Washington winemaker Gordy Hill oversees production. This impressive Grenache was the top red wine of our judging, opening with alluring aromas of plums, cherries, milk
W I N E R AT I N G S All rated wines are tasted blind then placed in the following categories: Outstanding These wines have superior characteristics and should be highly sought after. Excellent Top-notch wines with particularly high qualities. Recommended Delicious, well-made wines with true varietal characteristics. Best Buy! A wine that is $15 or under. Prices are suggested retail and should be used as guidelines. Prices are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise noted. CDN: Canadian dollars.
chocolate, raspberry syrup and fresh kindling. On the palate, it’s loaded with flavors of Bing cherries and red currants. Bright acidity lifts the flavors and provides plenty of backbone. (161 cases, 13.5% alc.) Barnard Griffin $25 2008 Grenache, Columbia Valley Nearly 35 years after arriving in Washington, winemaker Rob Griffin continues to display a remarkable ability to craft some of the Pacific Northwest’s finest. This Grenache opens with aromas of pie cherries, blueberries and plums, followed by rich flavors of ripe plums and black cherries. Its modest tannins and balanced acidity provide a beautiful mouth feel and lengthy finish. (180 cases, 14.8% alc.) Folin Cellars $25 2006 Estate Tempranillo, Rogue Valley This Southern Oregon winery near Medford focuses its 25-acre vineyard and winemaking efforts on Spanish and Rhône varieties. Its wines can be tasted in two locations: its Rogue Valley winery and its tasting room in
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the northern Willamette town of Carlton. This superb Tempranillo opens with aromas of strawberries, red currants, rose hips, oak and spices, followed by flavors of red berries, licorice and chocolate. Its tannins and acidity are beautifully balanced and offer a lengthy finish. (200 cases, 14.4% alc.) Kana Winery $18 2006 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley Winemaker Ben Grossman takes advantage of Tempranillo from Coyote Canyon, Snipes Mountain and Elephant Mountain vineyards
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and added a splash (5%) of Grenache from Ciel du Cheval to craft a superb red wine. It opens with aromas of blackberries, plums and horehound candy, followed by rich flavors of marionberries, licorice and a hint of oak. (320 cases, 15.2% alc.) Zerba Cellars $38 2007 Grenache, Columbia Valley Winemaker Doug Nierman blended 25% Mourvèdre to craft this gorgeous red wine. It reveals youthful aromas of boysenberries, blueberries, vanilla, oak and horehound, fol-
lowed by flavors of licorice, boysenberries, red currants and pomegranates. It’s a perfect wine to pair with lamb. (89 cases, 14.9% alc.) Airfield Estates $25 2008 Hellcat, Yakima Valley This Prosser, Wash., winery continues its string of superb wines — often given aeronautic names. This blend is primarily Tempranillo (88%), with 6% each of Grenache and Syrah blended in. It is a sensual wine with aromas of chocolate chip cookies, blackberries and leather, followed by smooth, juicy flavors of black currants, black-
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berries, Bing cherries and bittersweet chocolate. The tannins provide a bit of muscle to this wine. (384 cases, 13.9% alc.) Zerba Cellars $38 2007 Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley This superb Tempranillo uses grapes from two vineyards, Cockburn and Les Collines, both in the Walla Walla Valley. Aromas of jammy blackberries, ripe cherries and even dolmas, followed by rich, ripe flavors of plums and opulent berries. It hints at a bit of sweetness with
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plenty of acidity. (116 cases, 14.4% alc.)
EXCELLENT Best Buy! Parejas Cellars $13 2009 Two Coyote Vineyard Tempranillo Rosé, Yakima Valley This Yakima, Wash., winery turned to Two Coyote, a Rattlesnake Hills vineyard, for this luscious pink wine. It
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opens with aromas of strawberry juice, peaches, cranberries and orange peel, followed by complex flavors of strawberries and a nice hint of citrus. It is a superb wine to pair with seafood, chicken and pasta dishes. (100 cases, 13% alc.) Tagaris Winery $35 2007 Tempranillo, Wahluke Slope On Washington’s warm Wahluke Slope, winery owner Mike Taggares is one of the region’s top Fuji apple growers, and his winery (which uses a Greek spelling of the family
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iberian grip. (475 cases, 14.7% alc.) Three Rivers Winery $29 2007 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley Winemaker Holly Turner has been at the helm of this Walla Walla Valley showpiece winery for several years and shows her versatility with this Spanish variety. It reveals aromas of warm summer blackberries and a hint of teriyaki, followed by flavors of blackberries and dark chocolate, all backed with moderate tannins. (280 cases, 13.5% alc.) Parejas Cellars $18 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Tempranillo, Horse Heaven Hills Using grapes from a highly regarded vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills, this Yakima winery has crafted a luscious and hedonistic red wine. It opens with aromas of black cherries, black currants, rose hips, vanilla and spices, followed by flavors of dried strawberries, blackberries, huckleberries and red currant jam. It is a big, jammy, fruit-driven wine. (120 cases, 13.9% alc.) Tagaris Winery $35 2007 Grenache Noir, Wahluke Slope Using grapes from the estate Alice Vineyards, winemaker Frank Roth has crafted an intriguing wine. It opens with aromas of strawberries, red currant jam and cherry pie with a scintillating hint of rosewater, followed by flavors of strawberry jam and ample acidity with chocolate notes on the finish. (50 cases, 13.8% alc.) Abacela Winery $22 2008 Garnacha, Umpqua Valley This Roseburg, Ore., winery is one of the few in the Northwest to use the Spanish name for this grape on its label. This is a lightly oaked red with aromas of boysenberry jam, strawberries and raspberries, followed by mouthfilling flavors of marionberries, cherries and raspberries. It’s still quite youthful and lively. (221 cases, 14% alc.) Brian Carter Cellars $36 2007 Corrida Red Wine, Columbia Valley Longtime Washington winemaker Brian Carter, who opened his eponymous operation in Woodinville a few years ago, gave this red blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha the Spanish name for “bullfight” — and even put a bull on the label. Its aromas reminded us of a baked cherry turnover with hints of vanilla and roasted coffee beans. On the palate are rich flavors of black cherries and black currant jam, all backed with bold yet well-managed tannins. (344 cases, 14.4% alc.)
name) is gaining in reputation, thanks to the skills of winemaker Frank Roth. This Tempranillo opens with aromas of roasted coffee, black cherries and portobello mushrooms, followed by flavors of licorice, Bing cherries and a touch of oak. (200 cases, 13.4% alc.) Betz Family Winery $45 2008 Besoleil Grenache, Columbia Valley Bob Betz earned the prestigious Master of
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Wine award while working at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates and put his knowledge to work with his highly regarded winery just a short drive from his former employer. This Grenache is a bold, dark red with aromas of roasted coffee, toffee and dark fruit, followed by rich flavors of boysenberries, blackberries and Kookaburra black licorice. It is beautifully elegant on the palate with tannins that provide just the right level of
Marchetti Wines $28 2008 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley Rich LaRosa, owner of this small producer near Olympia, Wash., is a fifth-generation winemaker. This intriguing red opens with aromas of black cherries, violets, lilacs, rose hips and raspberries, followed by flavors of red and black fruits and moderate tannins. It should pair well with barbecued ribs. (15 cases, 13.4% alc.) Sweet Valley Wines $24 2008 Righteous Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley This Walla Walla, Wash., producer gained early notoriety for being Washington’s
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iberian 500th winery. Now, winemaker Josh McDaniel is earning a reputation for top-quality wines. This big red uses grapes from famed Les Collines Vineyard and opens with aromas of roasted red bell peppers, boysenberries and pomegranates, followed by flavors of marionberries, blueberry tea and black cherries. It’s nice and jammy yet shows remarkable acidity. (48 cases, 13.6% alc.) Alexandria Nicole Cellars $55 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Estate Tempranillo, Horse Heaven Hills Jarrod Boyle is not just the owner for this Prosser/Woodinville winery, but he also grows the estate grapes in the Horse Heaven Hills and crafts the wine. This Tempranillo opens with alluring aromas of ripe strawberries, raspberries, lilacs and violets, followed by luscious flavors of huckleberries, Saskatoon berries and blackberries. It’s a big, dark wine with ample tannins and a delicious chocolate finish. (73 cases, 14.6% alc.) Agate Ridge Vineyard $23 2008 Grenache, Rogue Valley Former Abacela winemaker Kiley Evans now crafts wine for this Rogue Valley winery. This Grenache from estate grapes represents Agate Ridge’s inaugural bottling of this variety. It is a youthful and beautifully inviting red with aromas of blueberries and lavender, followed by flavors of pie cherries, red currants, pomegranates and lilacs. (150 cases, 14.1% alc.) Chateau Ste. Michelle $25 2007 Limited Release Grenache, Columbia Valley When Josh Maloney joined Chateau Ste. Michelle in 2005 as red winemaker, he was the youngest person in that position in the winery’s illustrious history. He blended 14% Syrah to this Grenache, and the resulting wine opens with aromas of cinnamon, vanilla bean, strawberries and sandalwood, followed by flavors that showcase black cap raspberries, cola, blueberries and pomegranates. (350 cases, 14.9% alc.) Challenger Ridge $25 2008 Tempranillo, Yakima Valley This winery in the Whatcom County town of Concrete, Wash., grows 13 acres of estate Pinot Noir but crosses the Cascades for its Tempranillo. This opens with aromas of Bing cherries, pomegranates and floral notes, followed by flavors of black currants, cherries, cranberries and raspberries. Try it at Challenger Ridge’s second tasting room in Woodinville. (83 cases, 13% alc.) Tefft Cellars $28 2007 Tempranillo, Rattlesnake Hills This longtime winery near the Yakima Valley town of Outlook has opened a second tasting room in Woodinville. When you stop by, be sure to try this Tempranillo, which opens with aromas of rich cherries, espresso and oak notes, followed by bold flavors of blackberries, plums and black cherries, all backed with ample tannins. Pair this with a grilled ribeye steak. (95 cases, 13.5% alc.) Desert Wind Winery $20 2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Tempranillo, Wahluke Slope This Prosser, Wash., winery with estate vineyards on the arid Wahluke
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rich acidity. (50 cases, 14.6% alc.)
VARIETIES
RECOMMENDED
OF THE IBERIAN PENINSULA
Tagaris Winery $35 2007 Tablas Creek Clone Grenache, Wahluke Slope This Richland, Wash., winery takes its cues on this wine from Tablas Creek, the Paso Robles, Calif., winery that has gone to great lengths to emulate famed Chateau de Beaucastel in the Southern Rhône Valley. This Grenache offers aromas and flavors of strawberries, cranberries, savory spices and even hints of porcini mushrooms. (50 cases, 13.8% alc.)
Here are some of the Iberian grape varieties you will find in the Pacific Northwest: ıϧ T E M P R A N I L L O : Most famous in the Rioja region, this red grape can produce a bold, rustic wine. ıϧ G A R N A C H A : In France’s Rhône Valley (and, for the most part, in the Pacific Northwest), this red grape is called Grenache. ıϧ A L B A R I Ñ O : Best known in Spain’s Galacia region, it’s called “Alvarinho” in Portugal. ıϧ M O N A S T R E L L : Best known as the French grape Mourvèdre, this red variety is an ancient grape from the Catalonia region of Spain. ı G R A C I A N O : This red Rioja grape is extremely rare in the Northwest. ıϧ Port varieties: T I N TA R O R I Z , T I N TA C A O A N D T O U R I G A N A Ç I O N A L are the most famous
varieties that go into Portugal’s renowned dessert wines. They are rare in the Northwest, though examples can be found from time to time.
Slope has crafted a luscious and affordable Tempranillo. It opens with aromas of huckleberries, strawberries and tobacco, followed by approachable flavors of boysenberries and huckleberries. (288 cases, 14.5% alc.) Valley View Winery $24 2006 Anna Maria Tempranillo, Applegate Valley With a history that stretches back to the 1850s (and since 1972 in its modern form), this Jacksonville, Ore., winery is run by brothers Mark and Michael Wisnovsky. This reveals aromas of strawberries, black cherries and hints of herbal components, followed by flavors of Van cherries, blackberries and black olives. (700 cases, 13.2% alc.) Folin Cellars $55 2005 Estate Reserve Tempranillo, Rogue Valley Though still drinking relatively young, this red was the oldest in our judging. It opens with aromas of black cherries, chocolate cake and spicy oak, followed by flavors of black cherries backed with bold tannins and
Domaine Trouvere $20 2007 Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Longtime Dundee Hills producer Lange Winery has created this label to focus on small-production wines. This Tempranillo reveals aromas and flavors of licorice, earthiness, coffee and blackberries. (470 cases, 13.9% alc.) Troon Vineyard $23 2008 Insomnia Port, Applegate Valley This fortified dessert wine uses 100% Tempranillo. It opens with aromas of marionberries and blood oranges, followed by flavors of huckleberries, milk chocolate and boysenberries. (200 cases, 18% alc.) Cave B Estate Winery $28 2008 Cave B Vineyards Tempranillo, Columbia Valley Winemaker Freddy Arrendondo blended 20% Cabernet Franc to craft this delicious Tempranillo. It reveals aromas and flavors of pomegranates, black cherries and blackberries with hints of dark chocolate. (290 cases, 14.3% alc.) Tagaris Winery $35 2007 Grenache, Wahluke Slope This Richland, Wash., winery opened its showpiece winery and restaurant a few years ago, and smartly put Frank Roth in charge of the wine program. This tasty Grenache shows off aromas and flavors of strawberry jam and an intriguing hint of rosewater. (50 cases, 13.8% alc.) Parejas Cellars $20 2007 Tres Rojos de Mesa, Horse Heaven Hills This is a blend of Garnacha, Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and Tempranillo from Coyote Canyon Vineyard. The resulting wine unveils aromas and flavors of poached cherries, black licorice, sweet spices and a fair bit of oak. Modest tannins back up all the fruit. (420 cases) ı AN D Y PE R D U E and ERIC DEGERMAN are the editors of Wine Press Northwest. JACKIE JOHNSTON , a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website is WineCountr yCreations.com.
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WINE COUNTRY: DESTINATIONS
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WINE COUNTRY: PUGET SOUND & WESTERN WASHINGTON
121 Widgeon Hill Road, Chehalis, WA 98532 (East off 1-5, Exit 81. Call for detailed directions) Tasting Room Please call for hours.
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San Juan Vineyards Gold Medal Wines 3136 Roche Harbor Rd, Friday Harbor, WA
360-378-WINE Fall hours: Open Daily/Seasonal Winery • Vineyard • Tasting Chris Primus, winemaker Join our Wine Club: www.sanjuanvineyards.com sjvineyards@rockisland.com
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WINE COUNTRY: SOUTHERN OREGON
WINE COUNTRY: IDAHO & SPOKANE
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WINE COUNTRY: YAKIMA VALLEY
“Help Stomp Out Breast Cancer” Grape Stomp Sept 25 & 26 Busty Blush Rosé Tasting Room Thur-Mon 10am - 6pm I-82 Exit at Zillah (509) 829-6810 www.claarcellars.com
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M AT C H M A K E R S
Crispy Pork Belly paired with Torii Mor’s Oregon Pinot Noir.
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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE
Copperleaf Restaurant at Cedarbrook Lodge Young team, green concepts take flight near Sea-Tac BY ERIC DEGERMAN
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACKIE JOHNSTON
— ust knowing it’s a two-minute drive from the tarmac at SeattleTacoma International Airport makes the concept of farm-to-table cuisine seem distant. However, Mark Bodinet brings it home at the new Copperleaf Restaurant inside Cedarbrook Lodge. Considering his culinary background and mentor, the 27year-old from Chicago seemed ripe for the opportunity. “What we have is a 28-seat restaurant focusing on farm-totable cuisine,” said Bodinet, who landed here after spending five years at Napa Valley’s famed French Laundry. “This is Northwest-inspired, using local artisans, farmers, ranchers and growers to give us the best product available. And while we have a smaller wine list, it’s very hand-selected and focused with the ideas of the restaurant.” There’s a constant green thread woven into the Copperleaf. The relaxing and secluded grounds showcase a variety of trees, a manicured lawn, herb/vegetable garden, a culinary mushroom bed and a satellitecontrolled reclamation pond. “Rain water goes through the mushrooms, gets filtered SEATTLE
J
and used in our reclamation pond, which gets distributed to re-water the farm and all the grasses and trees that grow on our property,” he explained. In a sense, the new owners are recycling what served as the corporate training center for now-defunct Washington Mutual. The likelihood for success looks golden after J.P. Morgan sold the property with 110 rooms to Wright Hotels Inc. Its West Coast properties include Seattle’s Sheraton and Waterfront Marriott as well as the Portland Red Lion. The group’s founder is construction magnate Howard S. Wright, who built the Space Needle in 1962 and has owned the Seattle landmark since 1977. And it would seem as though the Wright group hired the right man for the job to spearhead the Copperleaf Restaurant. Culinary director Roy Breiman worked wonders as executive chef at the Salish Lodge & Spa, sharpening the farmto-table focus at the acclaimed property in Snoqualmie, Wash. “When we started here, it’s was a corporate conference center,” Bodinet said. “Now it’s a really chef-driven concept. Our goal is to create a great restaurant in an urban environment that uses sustainable practices,
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Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery $29 2007 Pinot Noir, Oregon —8,600 cases produced, 13.6% alcohol he Pinot Noir crafted by Jacques Tardy doesn’t taste green, but the folks at Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery want the rest of their operation to be as green as possible. Both factors explain the support of the Oregon winery at the Cedarbrook Lodge’s Copperleaf Restaurant near SeattleTacoma International Airport. In fact, Torii Mor’s 2007 Oregon Pinot Noir appears on the wine list accented by a “green leaf” icon — a sign of wineries that employ sustainable practices. Oregon physician Donald Olson had that on his mind when he launched and named his winery in the Dundee Hills. Torii is a Japanese term referring to garden gates, while “Mor” is a type of earth or soil type often found in forests. Olson’s 10-acre vineyard in the Dundee Hills was first planted in 1972. He purchased it in 1985, then created Torii Mor in 1993. Olson Estate bears the Low Input Viticulture and Enology certification, while Torii Mor Winery received Leadership in Energy and Environment Design (LEED) Gold status in March. Their efforts include recycling corks and foil in the tasting room. Tardy, a Burgundian, began making wine in France in 1974. He arrived in California in 1982 and headed to Oregon in 1990. In 2004, Olson hired Tardy, who served as both winemaker and vineyard manager at Montinore. He worked with 18 vineyards from six appellations for this 2007 Pinot Noir. Torii Mor’s 2007 Oregon Pinot Noir shows classic qualities and balance because of pleasing acidity and lower alcohols compared to many recent vintages. What arrives in the glass are classic notes of black cherries, strawberry and cranberry, bringing both their sweetness and foodfriendly acidity. Tardy’s barrel program for this release included only 16% new oak, and the subtle hints of vanilla, nutmeg, savory spice allow the fruit and acidity to shine. The background of earthiness, tobacco and slight chalkiness of the tannin structure played nicely alongside the pork belly’s inherent fat.
T
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery, 18323 NE Fairview Dr., Dundee, OR, 97115, 503-538-2279, toriimorwinery.com
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M AT C H M A K E R S RECIPE Crispy Pork Belly Serves 2
1 pound raw Carlton Farms pork belly Kosher salt Ground black pepper 1 ⁄2 cup, plus 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, separated use 1 bunch fresh thyme, separated use 3 cups chicken stock or unsalted broth Extra virgin olive oil 1 ⁄2 pound fingerling potatoes 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar 1 tablespoon shallots, minced 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 tablespoon parsley, minced 1 cup Torii Mor 2007 Oregon Pinot Noir 8 fresh Bing cherries, pits removed
For the pork belly: Season pork belly will salt and pepper and place fat side up in an oven-safe casserole dish. Add 1⁄2 cup Dijon mustard, 1⁄2 bunch of fresh thyme and cover with chicken stock. Tightly cover with foil or lid and place in oven at 300°F for 41⁄2 hours until the belly is very soft. When it is cooked, remove from liquid and place in chiller until fully cool, approximately 3-5 hours. Next, cut the cold belly into 2-inch by organic, fair trade and a low carbon footprint as much as we can.” Breiman’s history shows the concept will work — Wine Press Northwest profiled him as a Match Maker in 2005 — and his hiring was no coincidence. Yogi Hutsen and the Coastal Hotel Group manage Cedarbrook Lodge. They used to operate the Salish, where Bodinet and Cedarbrook’s wine director Simon Stapel, age 30, worked. Bodinet’s association with Breiman began years before when he graduated from culinary school in Arizona and was hired by Breiman for the Winnetu Inn and Resort on Martha’s Vineyard. “I had no experience as far as working in a restaurant,” Bodinet said. “He showed me how to butch68
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4-inch pieces and season again with salt and pepper on all sides. Heat a nonstick sauté pan on high heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place belly fat side down into the hot pan, being very careful as to not splash hot oil on your hand. Then, put the pan with the belly in a 400°F preheated oven for 7 minutes to finish. For potatoes: Cut potatoes into 1⁄2-inch thick rounds and toss in a bowl with fresh thyme, salt, pepper, and enough oil to lightly coat the potatoes. Put in roasting pan or sauté pan in a 400°F oven until golden brown and tender, approximately 20 minutes. When they are cooked add the butter, champagne vinegar, shallots, garlic and parsley. Stir the mixture continuously until the butter has melted. Reserve warm. Final prep: To serve, spoon your seasoned potatoes onto a serving dish. Place the pork belly, crispy fat side up, on top of the potatoes. In the hot pan from the pork belly add your red wine, fresh cherries and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Simmer for 2 minutes and spoon over top of the belly. Sprinkle with sea salt and enjoy! er my first fish, how to cook things, how to make sauces. He was my mentor in this industry.” In time, he followed Breiman to the Salish, which served as Bodinet’s stepping stone to Napa. “He ended up helping me get a job at the French Laundry, and it worked out great,” Bodinet said. “We kept our relationship strong through the five years so we could build something great together. Things are really coming together now.” Stapel likened Breiman to a head coach who inspires and instructs team members and coaching staff. “Roy is great at networking, building relationships with farms, producers and chefs, and creating a community of his own,” Stapel said.
“That’s a big reason for me being here — learning from him how to incorporate my passion with others around me.” Working at the Salish — a past champion of Wine Press Northwest’s Best Northwest Wine List Award — serves Stapel well with tableside service. “They’ve afforded me quite a bit of latitude here, but the library itself isn’t extremely large,” he said. The wine list continues to evolve, and the world-class quality of Northwest wines recognized internationally makes it easy for Stapel — a graduate of the University of Washington’s international studies program — to stay close to home and give out-of-town travelers a snapshot of the local wine industry. “First and foremost, the culinary direction and focus were already established, and I’ve tried to stay true to environmentally friendly as I could,” Stapel said. “We have small producers as well as big names, so we can allow our guests to have a true Northwest experience.” The list of Northwest icons includes Adelsheim, Chateau Ste. Michelle, DeLille, L’Ecole, Leonetti, McCrea, Ponzi and Willamette Valley Vineyards. There are rising stars such as Alexandria Nicole, Basel Cellars, Dusted Valley, Sleight of Hand, Sheridan, Substance and Va Piano. Outstanding values feature Dunham’s 3 Legged Red, Hogue’s Genesis Cabernet Sauvignon, Latah Creek’s Sangiovese, Snoqualmie’s Naked Merlot and Tamarack Cellars’ Firehouse Red. There are also well-know labels such as Abeja, Fidelitas, Lachini, Lange, Long Shadows, Seven Hills, Sokol Blosser and Zerba. “Folks have heard about Leonetti or DeLille or L’Ecole, and I want those established ones, but it’s important to have boutiques with the cult winemakers,” he said. “I want to turn to people onto some of those Woodinville garagiste wineries, highlight different wine profiles
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M AT C H M A K E R S and introduce our guests to new varieties.” Among his short-term goals are the introduction of half-bottles — a concept that L’Ecole has been a leader in the Northwest for years. There also are plans for staff visits to wineries, which turn servers into ambassadors and allow them to engage and assist the diner rather than merely pour wine into a glass. On the drawing table are special events that include dinners featuring not only winemakers but also vineyard managers. “We are setting up a schedule to highlight different farms, which adds a different element and incorporates Roy’s culinary adventures from the past,” Stapel said. “I remember at the Salish we had a Scottish game dinner with winemakers Mark Ryan McNeilly and (the late) Lance Baer. They made it a lot of fun.” This summer, Cedarbrook Lodge followed a concept for an heirloom tomato festival that White Heron Cellars stages each year in Quincy, Wash., so now fans of Northwest tomatoes have destinations on both sides of the Cascades. Regional ingredients come together for both the dining and catering sides of Cedarbrook. There’s Bluebird Grain Farms in Winthrop, Estrella Family Creamery (Montesano), Full Circle Farm (Carnation), Painted Hills Beef (Fossil, Ore.), Salumi (Seattle’s Pioneer Square), Seattle Caviar Co., Mad Hatcher Farm (Ephrata), Malleys (Seattle-based fishmonger), Theo Chocolate (Seattle), Wild Wheat Bakers (Seattle), Willy Greens Organic Farm (Monroe) and World Spice Merchants (Seattle). When it comes to getting seafood from Alaska, the lodge’s proximity to Sea-Tac is a benefit. That freshness was on display in Bodinet’s pairing with the Badger Mountain Vineyard 2008 Organic Riesling, using his Kodiak Island Halibut. And one sense of pride for
Executie chef Mark Bodinet
RECIPE Kodiak Island Halibut Serves 2
Extra virgin olive oil 2 six-ounce pieces of halibut Kosher salt 1 bunch green asparagus 4 each Cipplinni onions or pearl onions 1 tablespoon cold butter-unsalted 1 tablespoon shallots, minced 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 tablespoon parsley, minced Ground black pepper Lemon
For the halibut Start with a sauté pan large enough that you can put both pieces of fish in and not have them touch each other or the sides of the pan. Heat your pan on high and add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan with an even layer. Once the pan is hot, you will see wisps of white smoke coming from the pan. Season the fish on all sides with salt and place carefully in the pan, avoiding any oil splashing. Turn the heat down to medium and let them cook on one side until golden brown. To check the coloring on the fish, carefully use a flexible metal spatula to
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lightly raise one corner and peek at the doneness. Once golden, carefully flip fish over and put in oven for approximately 3 minutes or until the fish feels slightly firm on its sides. For the asparagus Start by snapping bottoms off by holding just below the tip of the asparagus with one hand and the base in the other and lightly bending until it snaps. Next, peel outside off the asparagus leaving the tip fully intact. Securely tie the asparagus together in one bunch with butcher’s twine. With your water at a steady boil, gently place the asparagus bunch in water and set up an ice bath using 1 quart cold water and 3 cups ice. Remove asparagus from water when it is fork tender and place directly into ice water. Leave in cold water until fully cool, approximately 5 minutes. In warm sauté pan, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and sauté onions until golden brown. Add your blanched asparagus, butter, shallots, garlic and parsley and season with salt and pepper. To serve, spoon your onion and asparagus garnish onto a plate and place fish on top. A fresh squeeze of lemon to finish and enjoy!
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M AT C H M A K E R S WINE Badger Mountain Vineyard 2008 Riesling, Columbia Valley —12,000 cases produced, 13% alcohol
$10
hen Bill Powers and son Greg first planted Badger Mountain Vineyard in 1982, their vineyard and neighboring orchards were on the outer edges of development in Kennewick, Wash. Before long, his 80 acres of vines became less rural as the Tri-Cities began its sprawl into the shrub-steppe. Being the kind and considerate Oklahoman he is, Bill began farming the vineyard organically in 1988. Rather than worry about pesticides and herbicides floating into the backyards of nearby families, the Powers deployed predatory insects and natural soaps. They planted rye and vetch to serve as ground cover. Grape skins and seeds make their way back to the vineyard. By 1990, Badger Mountain became the first certified organic vineyard in the state. Badger Mountain and Powers are separate wineries. Greg uses more traditional methods to make the Powers lineup and follows through with the organic approach to the Badger Mountain wines. During a recent Wine Press Northwest podcast with Bob Woehler, Bill explained the appeal of his blue-bottled organic Riesling. “It’s been a big seller, always,” Bill said. “We have a very long group of people who just want that wine because they are allergic to sulfites — and they want a wine in that price range.” While low levels of sulfites occur naturally in wines, vintners will add sulfites as a preservative agent to help keep wines fresh and ward off oxidation. Consumers seeking NSA (no sulfites added) wines form a significant portion of the market. “There’s about 3 percent of population that’s allergic to sulfites, and 5 (percent) more who think they are,” Bill said. This vintage is loaded with orchard fruit, primarily pears and peaches with jasmine and diesel notes. While it’s off-dry at 1.7% residual sugar, citrus acidity and minerality add to its complexity and keep it refreshing.
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A small kitchen garden at Cedarbrook Lodge provides some of the salad greens for a tomato salad in the Copperleaf Restaurant.
Bodinet showed with a key portion to his halibut dish: incorporating asparagus. “I’ve come across folks who say they don’t like something, like asparagus, and that’s because they’ve experiences with overcooked or canned asparagus,” Bodinet said. “So I enjoy presenting people with a young, bright green piece of Yakima Valley asparagus and they’ll say, ‘Wow, that’s amazing!’ So we can change a person’s mindset. They’ll say, ‘I want to get some,’ and then they start supporting Yakima Valley asparagus growers.” 70
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For the other dish, Bodinet profiled pork belly from Carlton Farms in Carlton, Ore. — a short drive from where the Torii Mor 2007 Oregon Pinot Noir was created. “What we’ve done here at the Cedarbook Lodge shows that it’s possible to do this anywhere — whether it be in a big city or a small town,” Bodinet said. “Now (the issue) is getting people here to see what we are doing.” Cedarbrook Lodge, 18525 36th Ave., South, Seattle, WA, 98188, cedarbrooklodge.com. ı ERIC DEGERMAN is Wine Press Northwest’s managing editor. Have a suggestion for a future Match Maker? E-mail him at edegerman@winepressnw.com. JACKIE JOHNSTON, a freelance photojournalist, is a regular contributor and the page designer for Wine Press Northwest. Her website is WineCountryCreations.com
ıϧListen to the full interview by visiting winepressnw.com or search iTunes for “Wine Press Northwest Bobcast.” Badger Mountain Vineyard, 1106 N. Jurupa St., Kennewick, WA 99338, 800-643-9463, badgermtnvineyard.com.
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M AT C H M A K E R S Kodiak Island Halibut is served with Badger Mountain Vineyard’s 2008 Riesling.
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WINE COUNTRY: LAKE CHELAN
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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA RIVER
Enjoy our authentic Italian Cuisine, friendly atmosphere and extensive wine selection. Visconti’s Ristorante Visconti’s Italian Italiano Restaurant 636 Front St. 1737 N. Wenatchee Ave., Leavenworth, WA Wenatchee, WA
509-548-1213
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WINE COUNTRY: COLUMBIA GORGE
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WINE COUNTRY: LEAVENWORTH AREA
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recent releases ABOUT RECENT RELEASES
Wine evaluation methods Recent Releases are evaluated under strict conditions to ensure objectivity. Northwest wineries submit wines to Wine Press Northwest for evaluation by Wine Press Northwest’s tasting panel. After wines are received, they are stored for at least two weeks and a third party serves them “blind,” meaning the tasting panelists don’t know the producer. In addition, the panelists are served glasses of wine and are not able to view the bottles or their shapes prior to tasting. Wines are stored in a ULine Wine Captain, which allows them to be served at perfect cellar temperatures. Price is not a consideration in these evaluations, nor is a winery’s advertising activity with Wine Press Northwest, as the magazine’s editorial/wine evaluation activities and advertising/marketing efforts are kept strictly separate. The panel has a combination of technical and consumer palates. If at least three of the four panelists consider a wine technically sound and commercially acceptable, it is included here as “Recommended.” The panel may also vote the wine as “Excellent” or “Outstanding,” our top rating. Wines considered unacceptable by the panel are rejected and not included. Reviews are grouped by variety or style and listed alphabetically by winery. Prices listed are in U.S. dollars unless otherwise indicated.
Reds Cabernet Sauvignon Alexandria Nicole Cellars
tones are joined by notes of cedar, tar, bittersweet chocolate and a sip of a Starbucks Frappacino.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2008 Five Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 a2 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 2,000 cases, 13.8% alc., $16
Columbia Valley, 338 cases, 14.3% alc., $24
Excellent. Five sites — Bacchus, Dionysus,
Excellent. Rather than tapping into estate fruit,
this Horse Heaven Hills winery branched out from its renowned Destiny Ridge Vineyard. Blueberry and Cherry Vanilla Coke aromas are joined by a rub of sagebrush, cedar shavings and brown sugar. More sweetness awaits between the lips with boysenberry, blueberry and black currants. It’s a mouth-coating and smooth Cab that leaves a pleasing trail of crushed filberts, mint and chocolate.
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 215 cases, 14.2% alc., $44
Outstanding! Victor Cruz of Cañon De Sol fame built this upon the shoulders of Wahluke Slope fruit from Katherine Leone, Clifton and Weinbau vineyards. A showy barrel program makes for aromas that lead with poached plums, lavender and rose petals, followed by Red Vines, Aussie black licorice and a freshly opened bag of Old Dutch Ketchup potato chips. The drink brims with boysenberry, black cherry and milk chocolate, while cast within a structure of shiny acidity and backed by tannin that merely adds texture. It’s one of the benefits that comes with membership at this Kennewick, Wash., boutique winery.
Ancient Cellars 2008 Amphorae Pheasant Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
nament at Spokane’s popular Ridpath Hotel, hence the name of this operation that’s transitioning from Grande Ronde Cellars. Your nose is dealt notes of cassis, cedar, black pepper and lime zest. Boysenberry and blueberry get shuffled on a palate that shows balance, and the tannin structure gives you cause to look over your hand.
Browne Family Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13.7% alc., $35
Excellent. Andrew Browne heads up the expand-
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Red Mountain, 165 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Columbia Valley, 980 cases, 14.2% alc., $40
Excellent. Kristina Mielke-van Loben Sels taps
Recommended. The 19 months in French oak commandeer the senses, particularly with leading aromas of Kona coffee, toasted sesame seed, Corn Nuts, tobacco and bittersweet chocolate, followed by blackberry, cassis and blueberry. Yet there’s a rich reward of black fruit that pushes through taut tannins on the palate with those oak nuances still in the distance.
into one of the most powerful sites in the Northwest and brings out a wine to match. A warm greeting of new French oak makes deep breathing of cloves, cardamom and cedar shavings with black cherries and boysenberry. That lovely fruit makes its way to the tongue with a structure that’s far from reticent. Fresh raspberries arrive on the midpalate before a long delivery of tannin. There’s a decade of life left along with suggestions of pot roast or rack of lamb.
Cave B Estate Winery 2006 Cave B Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars
Columbia Valley, 458 cases, 13.9% alc., $25
2007 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Recommended. Blueberry and pomegranate tones
Columbia Valley, 248 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Excellent. Spokane’s iconic winery turns out
Bergevin Lane Vineyards
2006 Apex II Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.2% alc., $17
Columbia Valley, 815 cases, 14.4% alc., $26
Recommended. Black cherry and boysenberry
Excellent. A designed plan with three vineyards
W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T • FA L L 2 0 1 0
Excellent. The Padrtas met during a bridge tour-
Cadaretta Wines
Apex Cellars
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Walla Walla Valley, 125 cases, 14% alc., $40
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars
slightly off-dry Cab as it opens with smoky alder and piquant aromas of spicy cherry and purple blackberry. The drink is plush with blueberry, Jolly Rancher cherry candy and chocolate flavors. Enjoy with grilled meats at a backyard barbecue.
Recommended. There’s a fascinating contrast to this
2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
ing Precept Brands family, and here’s the first wine we’ve seen to carry his name. Scents of sweet raspberries, marionberries and hibiscus tea include a walk into a cool humidor with notes of cedar, chocolate, cherry and sarsaparilla. There’s a remarkable transition through to the palate with cassis and cherry skin tartness, a good chewiness to the tannins and Chukar Cherry in the finish.
another remarkable Cab, and the investment of 20 months in French oak is realized. Black cherry, raspberry jam, lavender tea, tobacco and chocolate aromas fill the nose. Next is a bowl full of sweet Bing cherries, backed by licorice, chili powder, milk chocolate and massive tannins. Stow it in the cellar for 2-3 years or enjoy now with duck confit or pork alongside a raspberry chipotle sauce.
Rogue Valley, 169 cases, 14.2% alc., $28
Bridge Press Cellars
Stillwater Creek, Katherine Leone and Klipsun — allow for aromas of pomegranate, plums, Douglas fir frond, brown drawing paper and eucalyptus. It’s a very concentrated drink with sweet plums and Bing cherries. While the structure shows balance, the power of Red Mountain fruit provides something to chew on now — such as steak with shallots — and makes it a candidate for the cellar. 2006 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Anelare
in three appellations — Alder Ridge (Horse Heaven Hills), Minnick Hills (Walla Walla) and StoneTree (Wahluke Slope) — developed a wide range of aromas that include boysenberry, raspberry, strawberry, black cherry with whiffs of smoked meat, roasted coffee, tar and Graham cracker. Those cherry and wild berries are back as sweet flavors, focused by mindful tannins and a finish of chocolate liqueur. Enjoy with venison off the Traeger.
include whiffs of eucalyptus, Cabretta leather and bowling lane maple, backed by bright, food-friendly acidity, late but subdued tannin and a pinch of chili pepper.
Columbia Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 16,808 cases, 13.5% alc., $17
Outstanding! This “Core Series” bottling marks Kerry Norton’s first official vintage as replacement for the late David Lake, who retired in 2006. And it’s a classic Washington Cab from the start, sending out whiffs of black cherry, strawberry fruit leather, vanilla bean and cedar, with pipe tobacco, green peppercorns, brown sugar and beef jerky. Each sip brings further enjoyment from mellow bursts of black cherries W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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recent releases and plums. Tannins grip in a comforting fashion, met in the finish by Wheat Thins and cardamom.
Fidelitas Wines 2007 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills, 355 cases, 14.9% alc., $50
Recommended. Oaky aromas of cinnamon bark
and cedar with cassis and pencil lead are followed by mouth-coating flavors of plum, boysenberry and enjoyable chalkiness. Cordial cherries and dried fig play out in the finish.
Fidelitas Wines 2007 Ciel du Cheval Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, 143 cases, 14.6% alc., $55
Recommended. Inky aromas of blueberries and
plums also carry chocolate cake, cedar, tobacco and earthiness. A plush entry of boysenberries and chocolate drives headlong in bold tannins that linger along with some elegant acidity from black currants. Considering the structure and the pedigree, there’s tremendous potential here.
Girly Girl Wines 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 13% alc., $17
Excellent. A brand dreamed up as a class project
in Seattle University’s MBA program, it targets young women with fanciful labels, screwcap tops and some quality winemaking by Silver Lake’s Bill Ammons. Black plums, stewed cherries, blackberry, Cherry Garcia ice cream and tobacco leaf notes present themselves as aromas and flavors. While the nickname on the label is “Farrah,” it’s a bit brassy and husky — more like Kate Jackson.
Lake Chelan Winery 2006 RiversBend Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 822 cases, 13.7% alc., $26
Recommended. Robust barrel features make for
an assortment of stewed black cherry, plums and Christmas fruit cake aromas, joined by cola, nutmeg, lavender, hickory, vanilla and milk chocolate.The drinking is ripe and easy with blackberry, black currant jam, a bowl of corn flakes and a fresh piece of moist Aussie black licorice.
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 5,048 cases, 14.5% alc., $30
Excellent. Marty Clubb’s Columbia Valley Cab
continues to be one of the most remarkably reliable in the Northwest, and its production level remains steady (4,764 cases in 2005). Black currants, plums, dark strawberries, raspberries, vanilla and cedar shavings fill the nose. Expect richness and depth on the entry, which repeats the currants and plums. Pomegranate acidity builds the midpalate, and tantalizing tannins will reward grilled meats.
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Hills — are sustainably farmed. Their fruit melds here into aromas of sweet strawberries, pie cherries, white pepper, coffee, leather and chocolate and sarsaparilla. Cassis and pomegranate flavors transcend into pie cherries in the pleasing midpalate with bittersweet chocolate tannins and lingering tartness.
Market Vineyards 2007 Arbitrage Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 225 cases, 14.8% alc., $49
Recommended. A new winery in Kennewick,
Wash., makes its debut with a juicy, fruit-forward Cab that features raspberries and pie cherries amid bittersweet chocolate tannins.
Milbrandt Vineyards
WINE REVIEWS
Washington’s stellar vintages, this is showing some grace with aromas and flavors of strawberry fruit leather, boysenberry, cassis, stewed cherry and brown sugar.
Preston Premium Wines 2005 Mom’s Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 540 cases, 13.5% alc., $19
Excellent. The bottle features a yellow taxi cab
on the streets of Seattle, but what’s inside is a serious approach by one of the state’s oldest wineries. Black cherry and cassis aromas include hints at moist earth, cedar, tobacco and saddle sweat. It turns into a drink of cassis and blackberry with rosewood and chocolate accents amid managed tannins.
2007 The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon
Troon Vineyard
Wahluke Slope, 14.3% alc., $25
2007 Kubli Bench Cabernet Sauvignon
Excellent. Cinnamon, chocolate, sandalwood,
Applegate Valley, 400 cases, 13.5% alc., $25
crushed leaf, teriyaki and eucalyptus notes show the influence of oak in the aromas. A long list of big fruit and concentrated flavors await, starting with black currant jam and blueberry. They blend into vanilla bourbon, Girl Scout chocolate mint cookie and cherry juice. There’s nice acidity for aging, and decanting will allow for a better showing in the nose.
Recommended. Dick Troon began planting Cab on
Nelms Road
2006 Anna Marie Cabernet Sauvignon
his Southern Oregon property in 1972, and this release is built for the long haul. Bold chocolate, Montmorency cherry, citrus peel, earthiness, barbecue smoke and chewy black licorice tones chime in amid the moderate tannins and wealth of age-worthy acidity.
Valley View Vineyards
2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Applegate Valley, 950 cases, 13.4% alc., $24
Washington, 4,047 cases, 14.1% alc., $20
Recommended. Estate fruit grown on vines plant-
Outstanding! Each year since 1998, declassified
ed during the Carter Administration give winemaker John Guerrero the makings for a sturdy drink accented with blackberry, Montmorency cherry, blueberry and celery leaf, spiced with vanilla, teriyaki and black pepper.
juice from Woodward Canyon makes for one of the most savvy placements on Northwest wine lists. Spring Creek, Woodward Canyon, Champoux and Sagemoor grapes set the table for aromas of currant, pie cherry, rose petal and crushed leaf along with sweet barrel notes of allspice and tar. The pour brings in rich flavors black cherry, granola with dried blueberries and currants. Creaminess on the midpalate yields to a buildup of acidity and fine-grained tannins seem more a slice of chocolate cake.
Pend d’Oreille Winery 2007 Meyer Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 97 cases, 14.6% alc., $35
Recommended. Lawrence Vineyard on the Royal
Slope near Othello, Wash., and Idaho winemaker Stephen Meyer combine for a Cab that’s far from shy and retiring. Aromas and flavors include plums on parchment paper, Beechnut leaf tobacco and green peppercorns. There’s a bit of sweetness on the approach with blueberry acidity, blackberry seed tannin and Green & Black’s dark chocolate in the finish.
Plaza Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 133 cases, 13.6% alc., $18
Recommended. Brian Eglet brings Sagemoor and
Coyote Canyon fruit together at this small, young winery in Prosser, Wash. Juicy blueberry, cherry, Craisin and Graham cracker notes give it a spot at the table with prime rib or a New York strip.
Waterbrook Winery 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 4,800 cases, 13.9% alc., $22
Excellent. John Freeman’s winemaking skills con-
tinue adding to the history of the fourth-oldest winery in Walla Walla. Blueberry, chocolate-covered Graham cracker, marshmallow and alder smoke exude aromas of s’mores prepared over a campfire. There’s a darkness to the flavors, too, with black currant, Aussie black licorice and tar, finished by raspberry acidity and Kona drip coffee.
Woodward Canyon Winery 2007 Artist Series #16 Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 2,358 cases, 14.6% alc., $49
Excellent. Champoux (79%) and Sagemoor vineyards reprise their role as akin to Newman and Redford for one of Washington’s mostsought after Cabs, and there’s no reason not to stand in line for this. As usual, marquee French oak barrels are cast and the vanilla bean, tar and black tea share the aromatic stage with Bing cherry and blackberry. The drink is a dialogue of both hedonistic and masculine proportions as smoky and sweet cherries are joined by boysenberry and loose-leaf tobacco.
Woodward Canyon
Walla Walla Valley, 2,327 cases, 14.5% alc., $40
Preston Premium Wines
Excellent. It is interesting to note that five con-
2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Washington, 676 cases, 14.8% alc., $79
tributing vineyards — Loess, Va Piano, Pepper Bridge, Yellow Jacket and the estate Seven
Columbia Valley, 660 cases, 13.5% alc., $19
Recommended. Those who fancy opulent oak
Recommended. A release from one of
should — and do — gravitate to this highly
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
2007 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon
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expressive and annual thumbprint of Rick Small. He gathers Champoux (74%) and Sagemoor (26%) berries from 35-year-old vines to produce hints of strawberry and Rainier cherry amid dark toast, cola nut and Starbucks hot cocoa powder. It’s black currants and Bing cherries on the entry, then the new French chateau barrels marry in flavors of Aussie black licorice, vanilla bean and soy sauce. Typically, this wine ranks among the longest-lived wines made in the Northwest.
Pinot Noir Ancient Cellars 2008 One Toe Duck Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 68 cases, 13.2% alc., $35
Excellent. Crawford-Beck Vineyard in the Eola Hills provides the fruit for this release, named after a tough mallard that survived a run-in with a car. Smoky and leather aromas are backed by plums, cherry, chocolate, cinnamon and a brush against a bean plant. Racy raspberry and early season Rainier cherry flavors surrounded by shiny acidity and some tar give it versatility at the dinner table, including duck confit.
Brandborg Vineyard and Winery
Tannins offer just a bit of grip in the back, but its finish features a late burst of pie cherry filling.
Elk Cove Vineyards 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 396 cases, 14% alc., $100
Outstanding! Not often in life do you get what you paid for, but Adam Campbell rewards the investment in one of the Northwest’s most expensive Pinot Noirs. It’s also extremely expressive with whiffs of boysenberry, plums, lime, chocolate and cedar. Very little oak shows on the palate, allowing for velvety flavors of black cherry, strawberry, boysenberry, marionberry and orange pekoa tea. Acidity is apparent, but not tannin, which gives one time to appreciate the farewell from cassis and citrus peel.
the blueprint. Lingonberry and pomegranate join the aromas that include cocoa powder and a whiff of smoke. Then comes a slice of strawberry pie on the attack, and the oak comes across akin to pie crust. It’s richly flavored with milk chocolate, while cranberry acidity stays just ahead of the tannins.
Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards 2008 Reserve Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 1,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $32
Recommended. A wide range of aromas includes
cherry and blackberry, red licorice, grill smoke and hints of steak marinating with Montreal seasoning. The pleasing and mouth-coating drink features cherries with a bite of Almond Joy in the finish.
Elk Cove Vineyards
Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards
2008 Roosevelt Pinot Noir
2008 Three Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 281 cases, 13.5% alc., $75
Willamette Valley, 720 cases, 13.5% alc., $40
Excellent. Roosevelt elk are not uncommon
Outstanding! The melange of Freedom Hill, Yamhill Vineyards and the estate site makes for aromas of fresh pie cherries, raspberry, orange citrus and smoky cedar. There’s big richness on the entry that features boysenberry juice and lots of cherry flavor, cast in a silky structure. Serve with roasted pork in a cherry sauce.
sights on the perimeter of the Campbell family’s forest-ringed vineyards. Bing cherry, cranberry, white strawberry, milk chocolate, stone-ground wheat, cedar and white pepper fill the air. That red fruit and integrated oak tones show on the easy-drinking palate that’s ringed by Rainier cherry acidity and jasmine tea tannin.
2007 Benchlands Pinot Noir
Plowbuster
Umpqua Valley, 3,786 cases, 13.4% alc., $22
King Estate
Excellent. Aromas of dried strawberry, Van cher-
2009 Acrobat Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 900 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
ry, lingonberry, rose hips and leather avail themselves on the palate. However, the structure also picks up boysenberry, pie cherry and cranberry as food-friendly acidity dominates the tannin profile.
Oregon, 18,500 cases, 13% alc., $18
Excellent. The underrated second label for
Outstanding! Jeff Kandarian and his team turn
around this entry-level, screwcapped Pinot Noir with amazing speed while still giving it time for six months in various ages of French oak. Raspberry, Bing cherry, strawberry, vanilla and cedar aromas come alive on the palate with sweet plums, delicate tannins and acidity to back it up. Serve with salmon on a cedar plank or accented with raspberry chipotle sauce.
Carabella Vineyard shows more grace than its name suggests, and this production from Chehalem Mountains fruit is loaded front to back with black cherries. Toasty oak aromas include boysenberry, smoked meat and leather. The drink is akin to cherry pie with a spoonful of chocolate, a squirt of citrusy acidity and assertive tannins. Alas, the Hallocks report this wine is sold out.
“The Love Puppets,” paint quite a scene with dry-farmed fruit. Its light color provides an accurate preview, a delicate nose with cherry fruit leather, raspberry, grilled pomegranate, cinnamon bark and Nestle chocolate. A finesse-filled drink toes that line with notes of boysenberry and cherry-infused tea that lead to lingering acidity and bittersweet chocolate tannins. It comes with a puppet-friendly screwcap.
Lake Chelan Winery
Stoller Vineyard
2008 Estate Pinot Noir
2007 SV Estate Pinot Noir
Columbia Valley, 497 cases, 13.7% alc., $22
Dundee Hills, 1,950 cases, 13.6% alc., $40
Recommended. Darkly textured with black cherry,
Excellent. While some may cry over the 2007 vin-
blackberry, plums and milk chocolate, there’s a smoky and savory element in the finish where cigar leaf, portabello and a leathery tannin structure will make for finger-lickin’ pairings at their estate barbecue restaurant.
Elk Cove Vineyards
Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards
2008 La Bohème Pinot Noir
2008 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
Willamette Valley, 513 cases, 13.5% alc., $48
Willamette Valley, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $60
Recommended. Fruit punch aromas include boy-
Excellent. The Langes have worked with this site
tage for Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley, many of those wines exhibit better balance than warmer vintages. Winemaker Melissa Burr shows that with a classic example of Dundee Hills terroir, a wine with nuances of high-toned red fruit such as currant, pie cherries and raspberry. It gathers up accents of candela leaf tobbaco, sandalwood, moist earth and candied ginger that lead to late tannins and a delicious finish of strawberry freezer jam.
senberry, plum and blueberry ice cream. Tannins poke through on the entry to the palate where flavors of cranberry ice and raspberry rush in. That abundant fruit profile means there will be plenty in reserve in 2-3 years when the tannins have relaxed.
since 1990 and featured it as a vineyard-designate beginning in 1996. Skillful treatment with French oak allows for aromatics of rich blackberry and Montmorency cherries, backed by spicy red pepper flakes, chocolate and some charcoal. Lively pie cherries and cassis fill the palate and gather concentration from blackberry jam. It’s well-balanced with black tea and milk chocolate in the finish.
Brandborg Vineyard and Winery 2007 Love Puppets Pinot Noir Umpqua Valley, 1,390 cases, 13.5% alc., $30
Outstanding! Terry and Sue Brandborg, aka
Elk Cove Vineyards 2008 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 14,900 cases, 13.5% alc., $28
Excellent. Here’s the portion of the portfolio that pays the bills for the Campbells. There exist aromas of cassis, pie cherry, blueberry and cedar, followed by juicy and smooth flavors of boysenberry, dried strawberry and black currant.
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Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards
2008 Pinot Noir
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2008 Dundee Hills Select Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, 235 cases, 13.5% alc., $40
Recommended. Four sites in the appellation — La
Colina, the estate Olson, Bella Vida and Maresh — contribute to a glass filled with cranberry juice, strawberry fruit leather and cedar. The juicy acidity and pie cherry finish give this broad food applications.
2008 Lange Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery
Dundee Hills, 295 cases, 13.5% alc., $60
2008 Olson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
Excellent. Notes of red strawberry are typical in
Dundee Hills, 187 cases, 13.5% alc., $55
Pinot Noir from this appellation, and this follows
Excellent. In a classic expression of terroir, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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recent releases Jacques Tardy allows the high-toned red fruit of the Dundee Hills to shine. Those pie cherry and sweetened cranberry tones are backed in the aromas with saddle leather, smoked Bologna and alfalfa. The drink is fruit-driven and breezy with mouthwatering acidity.
Vercingetorix
maceration and oak abstainance make for aromas and flavors of Hawaiian Punch, and it’s built for a sprint, not a marathon. Ample acidity, miniscule tannin and hints of crushed herbs lends this to barbecue salmon or duck. This is Forrest Klaffke’s best effort with this approach since 2006.
2008 VX Estate Pinot Noir
Winter’s Hill Vineyard
Willamette Valley, 13.4% alc., $25
2008 Pinot Noir
Excellent. Willamette Farms of Oregon stepped
Willamette Valley, 394 cases, 13% alc., $20
up its program when it brought in Arcane Cellars winemaker Jason Silva. Here’s another example of his work, which opens with smoky oak aromas backed by raspberry, cherry cough syrup, eucalyptus and cedar notes. The drink features flavors of cherry taffy, the continued embrace of oak and easy bittersweet chocolate tannins.
Excellent. Winemaker Delphine Gladhart used
only estate fruit and could have labeled it with a Dundee Hills appellation. She chose not to. It’s a more hedonistic Pinot Noir as it carries blackberry, dark plum and chipped milk chocolate aromas and flavors. Balanced acidity and a nice line of tannin pick up cinnamon before tart blueberries carry it off.
Merlot
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2008 Elton Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills, 413 cases, 13% alc., $45
Excellent. Jory, a red volcanic soil, is a key reason why we’ve rated Elton one of Oregon’s top 10 vineyards. It helps make for a wine that’s effusive in aromas of pomegranate, pie cherry, smoky sun-dried tomato, citrus, nutmeg and summer savory. Pie cherry and orange peel flavors spin off into a heavier-bodied Pinot Noir that shows a bit more tannin, yet carries lots of acidity without much oak. Available only in the tasting room or online. Suggested fare includes escargot or paté.
Apex Cellars 2006 Apex II Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 14.3% alc., $17
Recommended. Strawberry fruit leather, black
cherries, red pepper flakes, cedar and freshly laundered cotton aromas are met by easy drinking tones of strawberry and cherry vanilla. The finish of rich milk chocolate wears like a sweater on the tongue.
2008 Estate Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, 3,379 cases, 13.5% alc., $40
Excellent. A blend of the estate block alongside
Interstate 5 with Tualatin Estate and Elton vineyards, it diverges with the other Pinot Noirs in the portfolio with its theme of plums, pomegranates, cherry bitters and alder smoke. The palate, though, is home to a beautiful, smooth and almost creamy approach with raspberry and Montmorency cherry, little in the way of tannin, and food-friendly tartness in the finish. Try pairing this — which recently acheived “Oregon Certified Sustainable Wine” status — alongside Baked Eggplant with Mushroom and Tomato Sauce.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2006 Merlot Recommended. Built using five of the six classic
Bordeaux varieties, its foundation of Merlot (76%) features tones of blueberry candy, root beer and maple syrup with brassy tannins and lingering acidity.
Columbia Valley, 233 cases, 14.4% alc., $25
Recommended. This blend of Stillwater Creek
(58%), Weinbau (25%) and Conner Lee vineyards gives off aromas of black plums, dried strawberry, sun-dried tomato and flannel on the clothesline. Its soft entry of baked plums, strawberries and moist black licorice gives it mass appeal, and there’s a gentle lifting of tannin with ample acidity.
Fidelitas Wines 2007 Merlot Red Mountain, 99 cases, 14.7% alc., $45
Recommended. Red Mountain Vineyard, across
Sunset Road from Charlie Hoppes’ cutting-edge tasting room, makes for aromas and flavors of President plums, strawberry jam, French vanilla, milk chocolate and crushed leaf. On the palate, it drinks akin to an Old World style Bordeaux with underlying acidity and a subdued showing from barrel.
Girly Girl Wines 2007 Merlot Recommended. This new label and sister winery
to Glen Fiona taps into the Roza Hills Vineyard for a rich and plummy drink-now presentation of black currant jam, pomegranate pop tart, Bosco chocolate and nutmeg.
Lake Chelan Winery 2007 Merlot Excellent. Black cherry, red currant jelly and
2007 Merlot
pomegranate track in hints of molasses and Russell Stover chocolates. That acidity strings a nice tension to the tannins, which carry into a return of the pomegranate and a farewell of Baker’s chocolate and cherry cough drop.
Walla Walla Valley, 75 cases, 14% alc., $30
Recommended. Aromas of blueberry, chocolate
chip, cedar, slate and purple teepee bush beans evolve into flavors of chocolate-covered Montmorency cherry and tar, framed by cranberry acidity, sturdy tannins and a plummy finish. Enjoy with a flat iron steak.
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Merlot Columbia Valley, 5,237 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
CedarCreek Estate Winery
Recommended. Blackberry jam, cranberry, saddle
2007 Merlot
leather and alfalfa notes are the hallmarks of this approachable and easy-to-get-into Merlot.
Willamette Valley, 494 cases, 14.5% alc., $50
Excellent. Here’s one of the final releases under American winemaker Tom DiBello’s long reign at this showpiece winery in Kelowna, B.C. Bing cherry, raspberry, smoke meat and green olive aromas turn into Rainier cherry, cassis and chocolate on the palate where delicious acidity and gravelly tannins find a pleasing balance. The screwcap makes it even more accessible.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2007 Merlot
Columbia Valley, 696 cases, 13.7% alc., $28
Okanagan Valley, 5,142 cases, 13.9% alc., $20 CDN
114 and 667 clones creates this top-tier release. An understated nose of light plums, pie cherry, cranberry, cedar, lime zest and leather kicks into a delicious and lively drink of cranberry and cherry fruit leather. A wealth of acidity and food-friendly tartness makes this ideal for the Thanksgiving table. Available only in the tasting room or online.
Fidelitas Wines
Bridge Press Cellars
2008 Signature Cuvée Pinot Noir Excellent. Cherry picking from Pommard, Dijon
cherry juice, blueberry syrup, candela leaf tobacco, coffee and vanilla awaken the senses for an extremely juicy drink with the same theme.
Columbia Valley, 481 cases, 13% alc., $17
Apex Cellars Columbia Valley, 14.3 cases, 900 cases, $35
Willamette Valley Vineyards
WINE REVIEWS
Dumas Station Wines
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Merlot Walla Walla Valley, 1,326 cases, 14.5% alc., $37
Recommended. Raspberry, cranberry, strawberry
fruit leather, smoked meat and sandalwood aromas and flavors are carried in a structure of abundant acidity and late tannins.
Mannina Cellars 2008 Birch Creek Vineyards Merlot
2007 Merlot
Walla Walla Valley, 156 cases, 13.5% alc., $24
2009 Whole Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir
Walla Walla Valley, 234 cases, 13.5% alc., $26
Willamette Valley, 12,125 cases, 12% alc., $20
Excellent. One of Don Redman’s favorite sites —
Excellent. It’s referred to as their Cab-lovers
Outstanding! Mother Nature winnowed this pro-
Merlot because Cabernet Franc (19%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%) add support to this product of Minnick Hills, the estate vineyard for this young Dayton, Wash., winery. Aromas of
once known as Vanessa’s Vineyard — melds with a barrel program featuring Hungarian oak to develop aromas of black cherry, plum, cardamom, cedar and dark chocolate Turtles. A smooth marionberry palate includes plums and
duction by more than 7,000 cases from the 2008 vintage, yet it remains the Northwest’s largest offering of a Beaujolais style. Carbonic W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2008 Four Vineyards Merlot Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.8% alc., $14
Recommended. Klipsun, Conner Lee and blocks
in both Bacchus and Dionysus play roles in this tasty and sturdy drink that showcases aromas and flavors of blueberry shake, freshly baked cherry pie, stewed plums and mocha. Suggested fare includes tomato basil soup or duck breast with a cherry glaze.
Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Abracadabra Columbia Valley, 530 cases, 13.8% alc., $15
Outstanding! When Brian Carter first made his
red currants, which get pushed along by good acidity and balanced tannins into a finish of chocolate Graham cracker.
Milbrandt Vineyards
entry-level blend, the product of the 2004 vintage earned our top rating and retailed for $20. Four years later, only the price and breakdown have changed. Eleven varieties and showy oak make for aromas and flavors of black cherry, cassis, blueberry, tobacco and Muscovado sugar. It’s an intense drink with big acidity and brawny tannins meant for marbled meat or maturity.
Claar Cellars 2007 White Bluffs Cab-Merlot Columbia Valley, 1,193 cases, 13.7% alc., $13
Excellent. A 60/40 blend yields aromas of red
currants, Bing cherries, cinnamon bark, black pepper and a hint of herbaceousness. It’s make for nice transition from front to back. Black pepper, bittersweet chocolate tannins and a sense of gaminess will serve it well with grilled lamb or barbecue.
Syrah
2007 The Estates Merlot Wahluke Slope, 1,501 cases, 14.3% alc., $25
Excellent. Indeed, this tier features the Milbrandt
brothers’ vast holdings on the Wahluke Slope. Plums, pomegranate, blueberry, vanilla, tar and cherry cough drop aromas transition into a easy-drinking Merlot that’s not a mind-bender. Bing cherries hanging on the tree, backed by plums, polished mahogany and lingering blueberry acidity.
Preston Premium Wines 2007 Estate Merlot Columbia Valley, 720 cases, 13.5 alc., $18
Excellent. A barrel program with French,
Hungarian and American oak sets the theme for this cherry-filled offering. Pomegranate, Super 100 cherry tomato and dusty cherry aromas are met with chocolate, dark Bing cherries and allspice flavors. Slightly edgy tannins add focus.
Waterbrook Winery 2007 Reserve Merlot Columbia Valley, 3,030 cases, 14.5% alc., $22
Excellent. Winemaker John Freeman continues the
legacy created by Eric Rindal by offering a reserve-style wine at a reasonable price. The approach shows immediately with a nose of black cherry and chocolate syrup, backed by blueberry, pomegranate, charred oak, pipe tobacco and cigar leaf. It’s a masculine drink of dark Bing cherry and more chocolate, backed by well-integrated tannins. Blueberry acidity arrives in the finish.
Westport Winery 2009 Boom Runner Reserve Merlot Washington, 194 cases, 12% alc., $29
Outstanding! The Roberts family’s young coastal
winery near Aberdeen, Wash., continues to spread its wings, and it releases a youthful, juicy and smooth Merlot. Blueberry syrup, blackberry, wild cherry Gummi Bear and black pepper aromas merely set the table. Those same berries pick up dried currant flavors and
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Anelare 2007 Ciel du Cheval Syrah Red Mountain, 122 cases, 14.5% alc., $59
Excellent. Those who aren’t members at this
semi-private winery in the Southridge area of Kennewick, Wash., need to get resourceful because this is a member-only offering. The nose casts out hints of blueberry, strawberry fruit leather, smoky bacon, black pepper, tar, cedar and celery leaf. It’s an easy drink that focuses on Bing cherries and milk chocolate, broadened by dusty tannins and a bite of Rainier cherry in the finish.
Anelare 2007 Saint Helena Syrah
deliciously balanced in the mouth with plum and boysenberry flavors, backed by nice acidity and very little tannin.
Columbia Crest 2008 Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon Washington, 130,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
Recommended. The second-largest production
of Cab in the Northwest (behind only Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Columbia Valley release) provides complex aromas and flavors of dried cherry and strawberry, cinnamon, dill, cigar leaf, citrus. Tannins hint at Thai ice tea, then yield to a juicy finish of blueberry and marionberry. using an occasional heavy thumbprint of oak. Here’s another example, primarily in the nose with stylistic yet smoky scents of bacon fat, French roast coffee, black pepper and Triscuit cracker to go with blueberry. On the palate, though, it’s fruit-forward with rich blueberry and marionberry flavors, smoked mincemeat and vanilla extract. Enjoy this with venison or other game.
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Cave B Vineyard Syrah Columbia Valley, 288 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Excellent. Bold red fruit aromas of raspberry,
cranberry and pomegranate sing with cedar and loose-leaf tobacco, while mature oak still brings out molasses, soy sauce and Ovaltine tones. There’s an unexpected richness of blackberries and stewed plums on the palate. Signs of Viognier (4%) appear with a blast of acidity on the midpalate, chased by a late tug of tannin, making for a zesty finish.
Columbia Valley, 222 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Kana Winery
Excellent. A production of Goose Ridge and
2006 Dark Star
Gamache grapes ushers out whiffs of cordial cherry, alder smoke and crisp bacon. Black cherries express themselves in creamy and luscious fashion as they sidle next to integrated tannins that make for a rich, rewarding and lengthy drink.
Columbia Valley, 247 cases, 15.5% alc., $20
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2008 Syrah Columbia Valley, 650 cases, 13.8% alc., $18
Excellent. A star-studded trio of vineyards —
Bacchus, Conner Lee and Stillwater Creek — give the stage to blueberry and plum notes throughout. The perfumy nose includes mint and a hint of Grey Flannel cologne. The syrupy palate includes a shot of Dr Pepper and a pinch of black pepper, cast about by nice acidity and a shouldering of tannin.
Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2007 Francisca’s Vineyard The Princess Syrah Walla Walla Valley, 170 cases, 14.4% alc., $48
Excellent. A number of famed Walla Walla
houses developed portions of their fan base
Outstanding! Ripeness rarely seems to be an issue for winemaker Ben Grossman, who continually hits the sweet spot with regards to alcohol levels at this Yakima winery. Legally, it could be labeled Syrah (90%), and which is no surprise with its grapey nose of blueberry and smoked meat that includes charry oak, Almond Roca, leather and coffee ground notes. Delicious red raspberry flavors are hunted by blueberry, vanilla bean and creamy milk chocolaty tannins that taunt a judge to indulge.
Kestrel Vintners 2007 Falcon Series Kestrel View Estate Vineyard Syrah Yakima Valley, 1,227 cases, 13.8% alc., $22
Excellent. This Prosser, Wash., operation contin-
ues to deliver delicious Syrahs at various price points. The inky fluid is loaded with perfumy brambleberry aromas as well as strawberry, blueberry and stewed cherries, cocoa, gun metal, sesame seed and cardamom. There's no disappointment to the flavors, which are rich W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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WINE REVIEWS
Best Buys: Red wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Columbia Crest
Long Tail Lizard
2008 Two Vines Merlot
2008 Merlot
Washington, 150,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 12% alc., $13
ed wines. It’s an easy drink with notes of sweet oak, cherry, raspberry, white strawberry and Graham cracker.
Excellent. Toasty oak doesn’t get in the way of
Recommended. Red currant, dusty cherry,
the fruit aromas of dried cranberry, ripe Bing cherry, blueberry and rose hip. Barrel notes show up more on the palate where pie cherries are met by homemade fleur de sel caramel and tar. Blueberry acidity and bold tannins merely elevate the drink.
crushed leaf, green chilies, tar and Graham cracker aromas don’t mislead. The drink is easy on the palate with a big chocolaty entry, backed by pomegranates and red currants. Hints of earth and pepper flakes on the midpalate lead to lively pie cherry finish. It’s low alcohol, bright acidity and herbal notes make it an ideal food wine. Enjoy with a cheeseburger livened up with jalapeños.
Washington Hills
Covey Run Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 5,313 cases, 13.5% alc., $9
Excellent. A product of winemaker Kate
Milbrandt Vineyards
Michaud’s first crush at this Sunnyside, Wash., winery, its stylish nose displays plums, dried strawberry and orange zest with milk chocolate, cedar, leather and soy sauce in the distance. There’s a greeting of black cherry on the palate with fresh-brewed coffee and white pepper notes, framed by distinctive tannins.
2007 Traditions Syrah
Kana Winery
2008 White Bluffs Syrah
2006 Workingman’s Red
Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 13.8% alc., $10
Columbia Valley, 582 cases, 15.1% alc., $14
Outstanding! Five years ago, Claar Cellars began producing Syrah under this second label, and the results are remarkable at any price. Opulent oak aromas of cinnamon and cocoa are reminiscent of some famous Walla Walla houses, backed by blackberry, black cherry, crushed mint and smoked meat. Hedonism reigns on a palate that emulates the nose and continues to give. Roasted coffee, Belgian chocolate and dried currants swirl amid a consistent push of tannins.
Recommended. A supercharged blend headed
by Zinfandel, it offers a dense nose of plum, black cherry, chocolate, espresso, root beer and Wheat Thin crackers. The Zin sweetness on the plummy attack, combined with its quaffable and soft structure, makes it a good introduction red. Cinnamon, cookie dough and coffee in the finish add to the conversation.
Kestrel Vintners Lady in Red, Eighth Edition Columbia Valley, 9,988 cases, 13.9% alc., $12
Excellent. Few family-owned wineries have cre-
ated a following for an annual release as this one from Prosser, Wash. A college marketing class developed the concept and sexy prototype label, while the price and the blend of Merlot (38%), Cabernet Sauvignon (35%), Syrah (20%), Sangiovese (5%) and Viognier make it an easy sell. Black currant, crushed almond and white strawberry aromas are joined by hints of porcini mushroom, red pepper flakes, lime peel, fennel and green tea. Very little tannin gets in the way of the smooth and straight-forward drink of strawberry freezer jam and black cherries that’s capped by black licorice.
Long Tail Lizard 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 12% alc., $13
Recommended. A perfumy nose takes you down
a different path with sagebrush, violets, bay rum after shave, horehound and A1 Steak Sauce. The drink evolves into bright flavors of raspberries and Western serviceberry, accented by tarry oak and green peppercorns, and nicely bound in a restrained structure. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
Columbia Valley, 1,977 cases, 13.9% alc., $15
Recommended. Dusty blackberry, raspberry, pie
cherry and salmonberry tones include smoky bacon, tobacco and crumbled Oreo for an easy-to-approach drink with lip-smacking acidity for grilled meats.
Ridge Crest
Silver Lake Winery 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hills, 4,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $12
Recommended. Roza Hills Vineyard, one of the
largest parcels in the Yakima Valley, yields aromas and flavors of red currants, Bing cherries, stewed plums, rose hips, cedar and hoisin sauce. The finish of blueberry acidity and elevated tannins should have fans of Vietnamese food consider pairing this with braised ribs or barbecued pork.
Silver Lake Winery 2008 Merlot Rattlesnake Hills, 4,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $12
Recommended. It’s fragrant drink featuring notes
of high-toned red fruit, cocoa powder, slate, sandalwood and pink peppercorns. There’s a flourish of blueberry and huckleberry on the midpalate with gritty tannins and more cocoa in the finish.
Sockeye Winery 2007 Merlot Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $13
Recommended. Here’s another Precept Brands
bottling that runs in the school of value-mind-
NV Rainier Red Washington, 2,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Recommended. We’ve seen this as a boxed
wine. Here the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (41%), Lemberger (26%), Syrah (25%) Cabernet Franc (6%) and Merlot is under screwcap. The drink is light, simple yet satisfying with cherries, strawberries and ample blueberry acidity. It’s herbaceousness and light tannins will do well with an artisan pizza.
Waterbrook Winery 2007 Merlot-Cab Columbia Valley, 4,200 cases, 13.9% alc., $13
Excellent. Value was a hallmark when Eric
Rindal launched this winery in Walla Walla back in 1984, and John Freeman has crafted a 56/44 blend that’s built and priced similar to that of the winery’s wildly successful Melange. Its nose produces an even keel of blueberry, Bing cherry, teriyaki, cracked black pepper and vanilla extract. It’s a bold drink of boysenberry and coffee with assertive acidity and firm tannins.
W.B. Bridgman Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, 4,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Excellent. The Precept Brands crew funneled
some Merlot (16%) and Syrah (6%), and the nose shows raspberry, dried strawberry, cedar, pink peppercorns and a rub of eucalyptus. On the attack is pleasing sweetness of those strawberry and raspberry notes, but the structure features nice leanness with blueberry acidity and restrained tannins.
W.B. Bridgman Cellars 2007 Merlot Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 13.8% alc., $10
Excellent. Out-of-the-oven brownie aromas
indicate the oak influence, but there’s plenty of fruit behind it with pomegranate and blueberry, then dried leather and green peppercorn spice. Pomegranate and huckleberry syrup flavors drizzle into the late arrival of tannin. And while priced for Tuesday night, its racy acidity will serve it well paired with a New York strip.
W.B. Bridgman Cellars 2007 Syrah Columbia Valley, 700 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Excellent. Blue aromas of Western serviceber-
ry, blueberry and plum get lifted by barrel notes of chocolate, vanilla bean and tar. The palate brings more expression of fruit with Bing cherry, nice acidity and tartness from the blueberry and serviceberry, and a send off of blackberry and coffee grounds. FA L L 2 0 1 0 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
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and juicy with great acidity, taut tannins and a long finish of milk chocolate and cherries.
and allows for pairing with steak, a cheese burger or a BLT.
of smoothness and juicy acidity that will serve it well with smoked ribs.
Kestrel Vintners
L’Ecole No. 41
Pend d’Oreille Winery
2007 Winemaker Select Estate Syrah
2007 Syrah
2006 Syrah
Yakima Valley, 277 cases, 13.7% alc., $40
Columbia Valley, 2,564 cases, 14.8% alc., $25
Washington, 247 cases, 13.6% alc., $21
Outstanding! Flint Nelson again earns our highest
Outstanding! While many of his Walla Walla
rating for his top-end, co-fermented Syrah. Incorporating clusters of Viognier (7%) gives it almost a nubile quality of fully mature blueberry and plump blood orange segments, backed by chocolate brownie, allspice, moist earth and gun metal aromas. It’s blueberry juice, oaky and citrusy all the way through the mouth, making it a distinctive drink and a great mate for ribs.
neighbors set their Syrahs out at $30+, Marty Clubb has held steady at this price for several vintages. And none is better. The big, fruity nose of blackberry and blueberry includes pleasing barrel char, gun metal, lavender and cedar notes. Tremendous richness streams through the lips with blueberries, black cherries and another rub of lavender. Then, it muscles up for complexity in the finish with chocolaty tannins and black licorice.
Excellent. If the law allowed, Idaho winemaker Stephen Meyer could list Yakima Valley as the appellation because the fruit came from Freepons and Willow Crest vineyards. Aromas open with a pouch full of Heinz Blend pipe tobacco and include strawberries, raspberries, a grape Popsicle and mint leaf. Fresh blueberries, raspberries, plums, pomegranates and flavors spill out with tarragon and anise in the midpalate. It’s capped by cranberry and citrus peel.
Milbrandt Vineyards
Preston Premium Wines
2007 The Estates Syrah
2006 Estate Syrah
Columbia Valley, 199 cases, 13.7% alc., $32
Wahluke Slope, 270 cases, 13.9% alc., $25
Columbia Valley, 150 cases, 13.5% alc., $24
Recommended. Expressive aromas of cordial
Recommended. A program featuring four estate
Recommended. From one the oldest vineyards in
cherry, poached figs, molasses, bacon fat, shoe polish and baseball card bubble gum powder are met by a rich entry of figs and cherries. Raspberry and pomegranate acditiy takes over
sites, winemaker Gordy Hill steers out a oakdriven wine while staying true to the variety. Just under the hood are notes of sizzling bacon, blackberry and black pepper with plenty
Washington state comes a rustic and spicy Syrah with juicy, high-toned red fruit accents, green peppercorns, a warm greeting of oak, tingling acidity and rush of tannin that gives way
Lake Chelan Winery 2007 RiversBend Estate Vineyard Reserve Syrah
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recent releases at the end to a spoonful of raspberry jam. Enjoy with a grilled flank steak marinated and rubbed with thyme.
Spring Valley Vineyard
backed by crushed leaf, tar and bittersweet chocolate.
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Cave B Vineyard Cabernet Franc
2007 Nina Lee Syrah
Columbia Valley, 290 cases, 14.7% alc., $28
Walla Walla Valley, 500 cases, 15.5% alc., $50
Outstanding! Those who fear the crushed leaf
Excellent. Mrs. Frederick Corkrum cut quite a fig-
character of Cabernet Franc can sidle up to winemaker Freddy Arredando’s expression of the variety, which features barrel notes of chocolate Graham cracker, teriyaki, clove and anise beyond the black cherry and plum sauce aromas. More barrel char comes through to the palate, but there’s atypical supple flavors of cherries and plums, backed by lots of acidity and and strong showing of tannins.
ure during her vaudevillian days in Walla Walla, and here’s a bodacious number off the ranch she handed down to her daughter. Sweet from the tip of its nose, there’s cherry taffy, grape Popsicle and pomegranate aromas. Uberripeness shows with a supremely tasty medley of mountain berries and pleasing midpalate acidity. Bittersweet chocolate tannins build, and in the finish comes a long draw off a freshly torched cigar.
Cabernet Franc Ancient Cellars 2008 Pheasant Hill Vineyard Terebinth Cabernet Franc Rogue Valley, 158 cases, 14% alc., $28
Outstanding! The Baker boys’ small project in
Dundee, Ore., shows a true appreciation for Cabernet Franc by preserving its herbaceous and food-friendly features. Aromas lead with crushed leaf, followed by blackberry, currant jam, pomegranate, chocolate, charcoal and a whiff of Magie Noire perfume. The palate shows more leaf and green peppercorns, backed by an acidity profile of cassis and pomegranate. Pleasing oak and tannin management capped by anise and fennel create thoughts of grilled pepper steak.
Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2008 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Valley View Vineyards 2006 Anna Marie Cabernet Franc Rogue Valley, 160 cases, 13.8% alc., $28
Recommended. Shady Cove Vineyard is the
source for a wine that offers red raspberry, black plum, black olive and green peppercorn aromas. On the flavors, it’s creamy and easy with cherry, cranberry, black olive and tar.
Sangiovese
WINE REVIEWS
ing his days as an assistant at Leonetti Cellar. So he transformed Seven Hills fruit that hints at pomegranate, red currant, cranberry and pie cherry in a zesty style with the tell-tale acidity. A keen pairing would be with artisan flatbreads at Saffron in downtown Walla Walla.
Malbec Arbor Crest Wine Cellars 2008 Wahluke Slope Vineyard Malbec Wahluke Slope, 225 cases, 13.8% alc., $32
Excellent. Kristina Mielke-van Löben Sels shows
her knowledge of this vineyard — which her family planted. She crafts it in an amazingly floral fashion, opening with hints of Mr. Lincoln Rose, blueberry, pomegranate, cherry, baked pear, tar and green peppercorn. Remarkable thickness and depth follow on the palate with sweet blueberry syrup, cordial cherry and ginger notes. Vanilla bourbon and leather guide the way into a finish of Orange Slice confection.
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Cave B Vineyard Malbec Columbia Valley, 145 cases, 14.1% alc., $32
Mannina Cellars 2008 Seven Hills Vineyard Sangiovese Walla Walla Valley 302 cases, 14.1% alc., $22
Excellent. Don Redman got a seat at Walla Walla
Vintners’ recent historic Sangiovese vertical tasting, and he shows his skill with this Italian variety. The nose is cherries and chocolate with plum, blueberry and a squirt of tangerine. Cherry, blueberry and toffee flavors make it easy in the mouth, then the grape’s inherent zingy acidity settles in.
Columbia Valley, 350 cases, 13.8% alc., $18
Sweet Valley Wines
Recommended. This bold and rich offering fea-
2008 Righteous Sangiovese
tures aromas and flavors of black cherry, menthol, fine-grained sandpaper, timothy hay and tar. There’s a pleasing structure of acidity,
Excellent. Josh McDaniels learned a thing or
Walla Walla Valley, 48 cases, 13.6% alc., $20
two about working with this Italian variety dur-
Recommended. Purple fruit tones of boysenberry,
pomegranate and plum, enhanced by hints of brown sugar, bacon and mint, make for a hugely rich drink to be enjoyed within two years or in the meantime paired with a big juicy bacon burger topped by blue cheese.
DavenLore Winery 2008 Malbec Horse Heaven Hills, 75 cases, 13.8% alc., $25
Outstanding! Gordon Taylor works the Prosser Farmers Market hand-selling his wine, but this production of Double Canyon Vineyard sells itself. Aromas include blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry, pie cherry, cedar, chocolate-covered Graham Cracker and grilled meat fat. The structure seems bullet-proof with its concentra-
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tion of boysenberry and pomegranate. Great acidity and a pinch of catnip will have you asking Taylor about his recipes for baked pasta and winter soups.
Fidelitas Wines 2007 Malbec Columbia Valley, 245 cases, 14.6% alc., $35
Recommended. Strawberry pie, cherry soda and
tobacco aromas lead to a plushness on the palate of crushed strawberries, ripe Bing cherries and lavender. There’s good length from acidity and tannin, topped by a mint chocolate finish.
Milbrandt Vineyards 2007 The Estates Malbec Wahluke Slope, 783 cases, 13.9% alc., $25
Excellent. Gordy Hill and the Milbrandts’ 92-acre
Northridge site combined to produce a dense drink that opens with Cherry Garcia ice cream, poached blueberries and freshly scraped vanilla bean. Plum and boysenberry meet lots of chocolate on the palate, where there’s a finish of black cherry and cherry skin tannin.
Other reds DavenLore Winery 2008 Durif
of your cellar.
Parejas Cellars 2007 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Mourvèdre Horse Heaven Hills, 180 cases, 14.5% alc., $18
Excellent. Mark Wysling used the Spanish term
for “partners” as the name his Grandview, Wash., winery, and his relationship with the Andrews family shows. Aromas include raspberry, Dr Pepper, Jolly Rancher candy, sandy loam and black pepper. That black pepper note, often found in this Rhône variety, returns in this friendly drink of raspberry, plums and dried cherries. Clingy acidity, orange peel and ground almond paste take turns in the finish.
Troon Vineyard 2008 Kubli Bench Zinfandel Applegate Valley, 300 cases, 14.4% alc., $24
Excellent. Herb Quady and the Martin family are
carrying on the tradition of founder Dick Troon, among the first in the Northwest to plant Zin. Classic aromas of strawberry candy and bubble gum gather complexity from notes of blackberry, crushed mint and chalkboard dust. There’s no lacking of fruit on the palate with more strawberry and juicy Rainier cherry. The oak is well managed, and accents of game and moist earth filter in with youthful tannins.
Horse Heaven Hills, 51 cases, 14.4% alc., $25
Red blends
Excellent. The grapes come from Zephyr Ridge,
but Gordon Taylor and wife/WSU scientist Joan Davenport refer to their wine by its other name rather than Petite Sirah because it's not a shy wine. A big nose releases plums, chokecherry, blueberry, cedar, meat juice, molasses and freshly ground black pepper. The tannin structure is rather restained, especially for the variety, as this stradles a rich backbone of blueberry and Marionberry with lip-smacking acidity of pomegranate.
DavenLore Winery
Airfield Estate 2008 Mustang Columbia Valley, 450 cases, 14.5% alc., $25
Recommended. Five red Rhône varieties —
Grenache (53%), Syrah (35%), Cinsault (8%), Counoise (2%) and Mourvèdre — make this fruit-driven drink featuring strawberry, Bing cherry, sweet plums, vanilla and Nestle’s Quik accents. It’s a good homecoming drink and quick to get into, thanks to the screwcap.
2008 Mourvèdre
Airfield Estates
Yakima Valley, 60 cases, 13.8% alc., $25
2008 Spitfire
chant Jay Schiering and wine writer Eric Degerman arrived at this Rhône-style blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (44%) and Counoise. Lyrics to describe the aromas kick off the set of boysenberry, blueberry, Chukar Cherry and cedar. The baseline is balanced and juicy with a melody of blueberry and black strawberries, and the high hat of acidity leaves the low drumbeat of tannin in the background. Enjoy with a wide variety of food, especially lamb, chicken and steak.
Anelare 2007 Nonna Viola Columbia Valley, 292 cases, 13.9% alc., $24
Outstanding! Few of Victor Cruz’s wines are available to the public at this semi-private winery in the Tri-Cities, but this silky blend of Syrah (50%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon is. Goose Ridge, Gamache and Katherine Leone vineyards make for entrancing aromas of blackberry, blueberry and black cherry, warmed by cedar, chocolate, tar. Creamy berries take over with a smooth and persistent density never slowed by tannin. Raspberries offer lingering acidity amid the finish of Belgian chocolate.
Bergevin Lane Vineyards 2007 Calico Red Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 14.1% alc., $16
Excellent. Winery owners Annette Bergevin and
Amber Lane came up with a fanciful name for their annual “go to” blend. This time, the littermates are Syrah (42%) Cabernet Sauvignon (41%), Merlot (13%) and Zinfandel from renowned nearby vineyards such as Ash Hollow, Francisca’s, Les Collines, Minnick Hills and Pepper Bridge, as well as Alder Ridge and StoneTree from beyond Walla Walla. Black cherry aromas are joined by roasted meat, Kona coffee bean, hibiscus, saddle leather, sandalwood, pink peppercorns and forest floor. There’s a lot of body to the drink of jammy blackberries, huckleberry, black cherry and cassis with smoky chocolate, toasted cigar leaf and iced coffee.
Yakima Valley, 450 cases, 14.1% alc., $25
Brian Carter Cellars
Vineyard with grower Art denHoed, and he’ll wax on about the cracked black pepper component inherent in these grapes. This boutique winery overlooking the Yakima River embraces that spice in berries — taken Nov. 11 — within a drink that’s loaded with boysenberry jam, dried strawberry and crab apple notes. Bright acidity and a near absence of tannin give it the feel of Sangiovese, and there’s a nibble of Chocolate Turtle in the finish. Suggested pairings include roast lamb and Coq au Vin.
Excellent. Marcus Miller’s version of a Super
2007 Solesce
Tuscan takes a blend of Sangiovese (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Merlot (10%), Petit Verdot (5%) and Malbec into a very juicy direction. Aromas of strawberry candy, peppermint and smoky oak play out into flavors of more strawberry and raspberry with some leather. Abundant acidity makes it light, lively and foodfriendly.
Columbia Valley, 1,000 cases, 14.4% alc., $50
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
Yakima Valley, 900 cases, 14.4% alc., $16
2007 Proprietor’s Limited Release Petit Verdot
Recommended. This blend of Syrah (41%), Merlot
Brian Carter Cellars
Yakima Valley, 70 cases, 13.8% alc., $20
(35%), Cabernet Sauvignon (5%), Malbec (4%) and Cabernet Franc flies in fields of strawberries and raspberries for a smooth touchdown that grabs some late acidity via a long finish of cherries and plums.
2006 Tuttorosso
Excellent. Walk through Sunnyside’s Far Away
Outstanding! Rarely seen at this price, the wine
made by Randy Finley’s crew tapped into Lonesome Springs, Crawford and Kiona to create opulent aromas of black cherries, plums, boysenberry, black licorice, mincemeat, wintergreen, sage, ground cinnamon, shoe polish and alfalfa. The dense and plush palate showcases ripe Bing cherry, frontal tannins and juicy acidity with boysenberry in the back. Its hedonistic approach slots this into the “drink soon” section
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Airfield Estates 2008 Vineyard Salute Bombshell Red
Alexandria Nicole Cellars 2007 Destiny Ridge Vineyard Rock Star Red Horse Heaven Hills, 287 cases, 14.5% alc., $38
Outstanding! Jarrod Boyle’s collaboration with sommelier Jeffrey Dorgan, Seattle wine mer-
Recommended. A blend of the five major
Bordeaux varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon (59%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Malbec — it melds aromas and flavors of marionberry, black currants, pomegranate, Tennessee red cedar, Mexican chocolate, caramel and sarsaparilla. Remarkable juiciness and its pervasive chocolate should lend itself to chicken in a molé sauce.
Yakima Valley, 1,050 cases, 14.4% alc., $30
Excellent. A Super Tuscan-style creation, it leads with Sangiovese (69%), backed by Cabernet Sauvignon (19%) and Syrah from vineyards such as Boushey, Solstice, Snipes, Stone Tree and Outlook. Aromas are based around blueberry, cranberry, cherry and chocolate tones with red peppercorns and tar in the background. It’s similar on the entry with raspberry, then the palate darkens up with boysenberry W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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recent releases and marionberry. Sangio’s bright acidity races to the finish with cranberry and fresh-picked president plums, backed by bittersweet chocolate tannins.
CedarCreek Estate Winery
tobacco. Tar and candy cane circle around in the back. Careful, even a drop of its inky nature will stain fingers.
Kana Winery 2006 Old Vines Red
2007 Cab-Merlot
Yakima Valley, 241 cases, 15.2% alc., $18
Okanagan Valley, 6,882 cases, 13.9% alc., $19 CDN
Recommended. Lemberger vines planted in 1979
Recommended. This production, one the largest in
at historic Red Willow Vineyard continue to produce some overlooked wines. Strawberry jam, raspberry pancake syrup and malted milk balls aromas and flavors make for a juicy drink that finishes with sturdy tannins.
B.C. relying on provincial Cabernet Sauvignon (47%), Merlot (28%) and Cabernet Franc, will especially find favor among those who enjoy dark, oak-driven reds. Smoked cherries, cranberries, roadside blackberries, plums, black olives, tar, green peppercorns, crushed leaf and sturdy tannins will provide lots of entry points for hearty weeknight fare.
Desert Wind Vineyard 2008 Ruah Wahluke Slope, 10,359 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Winemaker Greg Fries’ blend of Merlot (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cabernet Franc accounts for a third of the production at his family’s Washington operation. A year in American and French oak imparts aromas that tease with Death by Chocolate, toasted walnuts, brown sugar and black currants. Sweet plums plop onto the palate, and the structure of raspberry acidity, lingering acidity and green peppercorns make this a great foil for a grilled T-bone.
Dumas Station 2007 Cow Catcher Red Walla Walla Valley, 281 cases, 15.3% alc., $19
Excellent. Jay DeWitt does the growing and the
making with estate Minnick Hills Vineyard fruit, and this renamed Cabernet Sauvignon does catch your attention with huge whiffs of char from 50% new oak. Right behind it, though, are aromas of Thomas Kemper black cherry soda, boysenberry jam and crushed leaf. Next comes the mouthfilling drink of blackberries and plums. Integrated oak shows both light toast and tannin, leading to a farewell of eucalyptus and subtle Bing cherry acidity.
Fidelitas Wines 2007 Boushey Vineyard Red Yakima Valley, 314 cases, 14.6% alc., $50
Recommended. The blend of Merlot (53%),
Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Cabernet Franc leads with red-toned aromas of raspberry, dried strawberry, pink peppercorn, cedar and leather. A dark blueberry flavor drives a lively burst of acidity through the middle of the tongue, framed by moderate tannins and finished by hints of tar, boot leather, black cherry and Craisins.
Kana Winery 2006 Scarlet Fire Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Reserve Red Red Mountain, 120 cases, 15.6% alc., $25
Excellent. A number of Ben Grossman’s blends
reach high-octane levels, including this expression with Rhône varieties — Counoise (40%), Mourvèdre (40%) and Syrah — but the structure doesn’t over-rev. The nose of blackberry, black currant and milk chocolate comes with a smokiness and hint of pine straw. On the tasty palate, it’s akin to a grape Popsicle, followed by pie cherry acidity that gives it zing and late-arriving tannins. Enjoy with barbecued meats basted with rich marinade.
LaStella Winery 2007 Fortissimo Okanagan Valley, 245 cases, 13.9% alc., $35 CDN
Excellent. The Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot
(52%), Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Cabernet Franc from this boutique winery overlooking the Black Sage Bench offers sweet aromas of black cherry, blueberry, grape taffy, vanilla bean and tar. There’s big richness to the drink of cassis and more blueberry. Tannins add significant texture, which is capped by a lengthy finish of boysenberry pancake syrup and bittersweet chocolate.
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Apogee Wala Walla Valley, 1,630 cases, 14.5% alc., $50
Excellent. It’s interesting that this blend of
Bordeaux varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (30%), Malbec (6%) and Cabernet Franc — is quite similar to that of the Perigee, but the Cab Sauv came off Pepper
WINE REVIEWS
Bridge nearly two weeks later (Oct. 1-3) than at Seven Hills. There’s a definite strawberry/watermelon theme to the nose, along with coffee, but the palate is high-toned red fruit with cassis, pomegranate, cranberry and Rainier cherry. A wealth of tannin and Italian parsley lies in the finish, which bodes well for a pairing with Beef Bourgonin or osso bucco.
L’Ecole No. 41 2007 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Perigee Walla Walla Valley, 1,398 cases, 14.5% alc., $50
Outstanding! The term refers to the point where
Earth is closest to the moon, and this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (30%) and Cabernet Franc is heavenly. Aromas orbit around a theme of fruit with black currant, Maraschino cherry and strawberry soda, backed a whiff of cedar and teriyaki. Cassis and Marionberry flavors splash around a structure of pleasing tannin and bright acidity that will accompany grilled chicken or pork chops.
Long Shadows Vintners 2007 Saggi Columbia Valley, 2,145 cases, 14.6% alc., $45
Excellent. Tuscan winemakers Ambrogio and
Giovanni Folonari, whose forefathers’ winemaking in Italy predates Lewis & Clark, fly into Walla Walla for the opportunity to create a Super Tuscan-style red using Columbia Valley fruit. Their blend of Sangiovese (43%), Cabernet Sauvignon (36%) and Syrah (21%) centers on boysenberry, blueberry and chocolate-covered Graham cracker. Its structure is true to Sangiovese with a foundation of acidity, not tannin, lending it to aging or rich tomatobased dishes.
Lopez Island Vineyards 2007 Cab-Merlot Yakima Valley, 210 cases, 14% alc., $23
Recommended. While the Salish Sea is home to Brent Charnley’s estate vineyards for his white program, he taps into Crawford Vineyard in Prosser, Wash., and Red Mountain’s End of the Road for this 80/20 blend. It’s a noseful of Swisher Sweet cigar, black cherry, boysenberry and cedar, followed by cherry pie and huckleberry flavors with youthful tannins and lively acidity that will benefit from some time.
Fidelitas Wines 2007 Red Mountain Red Red Mountain, 356 cases, 14.9% alc., $50
Excellent. Charlie Hoppes didn’t venture far from
his “shackteau” for this Cabernet Sauvignon (62%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Franc. It’s very floral from the start with super-ripe blackberry, boysenberry, root beer, tar, candy cane and vanilla bean aromas. Voluptuous is the fullbodied drink with blackberry and blueberry flavors, followed by some sensuous leather and W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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Lullaby Winery 2007 Lalayee Walla Walla Valley, 140 cases, 14.1% alc., $35
Outstanding! Walla Walla wine maven Virginie Bourgue strikes out on her own with this stylish label, and she pitches a gem using a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (51%) and Merlot. She dresses it with whiffs of French vanilla, chocolate cake, blackberry, cherry, coffee, black licorice and chalkboard dust. There’s grace to the palate, offering tastes of jammy blackberry, cassis, blueberry and a grab of raspberry with foliage. Pleasing acidity and a subtle baseline of tannin leads to a fascinating farewell of devil’s food cake mix.
Mannina Cellars 2008 Cali Walla Walla Valley, 1,434 cases, 13.8% alc., $17
Recommended. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon
(49%), Merlot (47%) and Sangiovese features cranberry and pie cherry aromas and flavors with accents of cracked green peppercorn, roasted coffee and cedar shavings. The lively structure of acidity suggests serving it with Italian meat dishes.
Market Vineyards 2007 Basis Points Meritage Columbia Valley, 125 cases, 14.4% alc., $39
Outstanding! A new label in Kennewick, Wash.,
has hired Charlie Hoppes to make its wines, which should quickly increase its market value. He blended Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Cabernet Franc (15%) Merlot (15%), Malbec (8%) and Petit Verdot into an expressive drink that casts off aromas of plum, cherry cola and pomegranate with added hints of earth, cinnamon, cedar and brown sugar. Delicious cherries and cinnamon vie for attention as the full-bodied structure broadens out across the palate with age-worthy acidity barely overtaking tannin.
Milbrandt Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (54%), Cabernet Franc (25%) and Merlot for a sinewy profile that’s built around black cherry, blackberry compote and 100% French oak. Hints of bacon, a shotgun pattern of tannin, late acidity and allspice suggests a sizzling filet mignon.
Spring Valley Vineyard 2007 Uriah Walla Walla Valley, 2,500 cases, 14.8% alc., $50
Excellent. More than half of this vineyard’s pro-
duction goes toward this Merlot-led blend (60%) that includes Cabernet Franc (28%) but no Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker Serge Laville pulls this out of French oak three months sooner than his other top-tier wines, which spotlights its fruit profile of black cherry, blackberry, cranberry and cassis. Orange peel, pencil lead and anise fill in the corners before a long and strong pull of ripe tannin and a chocolaty farewell.
Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2007 Oldfield Series 2Bench Red Okanagan Valley, 335 cases, 15% alc., $30 CDN
Recommended. California-bred Sandra Oldfield
brought screwcaps to B.C., and this twist-top bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon (42%), Merlot (29%) and Cabernet Franc is filled with foodfriendly notes of Bing cherry, plum, mocha, cedar and tobacco leaf, joined by bright acidity and young tannins.
Excellent. This sister house to Lake Chelan
Winery crafts blend of Syrah and Sangiovese as a tribute to the orchard fruit the Kludt family ripped out to plant grape vines. Black cherry, strawberry jaw and milk chocolate aromas and flavors pick up Earl Grey tea and anise notes. Ample acidity, crushed leaf and balanced tannins swirl into a finish of pomegranate.
Recommended. A blending of Bordeaux varieties
Columbia Valley, 940 cases, 13.7% alc., $30
Cabernet Sauvignon (63%), Merlot (25%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Malbec releases aromas and flavors of plums, black currants and vanilla extract with a structure akin to a bite of pomegranate arils.
Recommended. In accordance to American
blend by Mike Sharadin, who remains at the forefront in the Northwest when it comes to using glass corks. There’s a splatter of raspberry juice and the turn of a pepper mill in the aromas, backed by teriyaki sauces, cedar and hints of smoky s’mores. All those accents return for a delicious mouth feel, bringing along fresh cherries and beets in the midpalate, chocolaty tannins and cranberry tartness on the finish.
Spring Valley Vineyard 2007 Frederick Walla Walla Valley, 1,500 cases, 15.2% alc., $50
Recommended. Cabs lead the blend with
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Yakima Valley, 230 cases, 14.8% alc., $20
Recommended. While there’s aromas of pear and
orange, a whiff of Lay’s baked potato chip in the nose hints at the barrel treatment. And yet, sweet pears and apple flavors dominate the attack, balanced by plenty of citrusy acidity.
Apex Cellars 2008 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 3,000 cases, 14% alc., $17
Excellent. Peter Devison, who helped to create a
number of stunning whites while at Tsillan Cellars in Chelan, Wash., is doing the same for this Precept Brand label. There’s a gathering of aromas of Circus Peanut, fresh linen, Pink Lady apple, lemon basil and lavender. It’s a pleasing knit of fruit and oak on the palate with more juicy apples, creamy butter and just a bit of oak in the back. Citrus pith in the finish adds balance and prompts thoughts of pairing with dishes featuring hollandaise sauce.
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Estate Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 14.4% alc., $20
rels still exudes a wealth of oaky notes outside with lots of butterscotch and hints of lemon, cardamom, pencil lead and fine-grain sandpaper. The buttery approach continues into the mouth with creamy lemon and apricot, but there’s some late acidity and a pinch of caramelized sugar. Enjoy this with four-cheese mac & cheese.
Columbia Valley, 707 cases, 13.8% alc., $22
2007 Meritage
Excellent. Syrah and Tempranillo team up in this
2008 Reserve Chardonnay
Excellent. Fermentation in neutral and older bar-
Wahluke Slope, 400 cases, 14.3% alc., $55
Columbia Valley, 250 cases, 13.7% alc., $33
Airfield Estates
2006 Red Delicious
Waterbrook Winery
2008 Potlach
Chardonnay
Wapato Point Cellars
2007 Northridge Vineyard Sentinel
Northwest Totem Cellars
Whites
Meritage Society standards, this is both the winery’s most expensive bottling and a blend of Bordeaux varieties — Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Cabernet Franc (20%), Merlot (17%) and Petit Verdot. The nose is dominated by tobacco and tar, backed by black fruit. The drink is rich and approachable with gobs of black cherry and ripe plum, accented by moist earth and lilac and finished with a bit of sweetness.
Westport Winery 2009 Bella
JoieFarm 2009 Un-Oaked Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 210 cases, 13.2% alc., $23 CDN
Excellent. Michael Dinn sends this off the
Naramata Bench in a crisp style, featuring aromas and flavors of apples and pears with baking spice, jasmine and lime. Tart starfruit, green banana and orange peel should reward a serving of grilled oysters.
JoieFarm 2008 Reserve Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, 502 cases, 13% alc. $30 CDN
Excellent. Made in a more traditional manner, this
is the only white our B.C. Winery of the Year doesn’t put under threads. A tug of the cork pulls out toasty oak aromas with vanilla overtones and slices of apple. Next come flavors of citrus and pineapple in a pleasingly buttery midpalate and a bit of citrus pith in the finish.
Washington, 126 cases, 12% alc., $33
Excellent. Here’s among the newest of 32 wines
created at this rapidly expanding Aberdeen, Wash., operation. The blend of Tempranillo, Primitivo, Refosco, Barbera, Merlot and Syrah gives off aromas of fresh marionberry, blueberry and cocoa with hints of hoisin sauce. There’s similar fruit on the palate, along with Bing cherry and dried plum. Nice acidity and low-level tannins make it solid on all bases.
Lake Chelan Winery 2008 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 578 cases, 13.7% alc., $22
Excellent. Young winemaker Jonathon Kludt
crafts this in a traditional yet balanced style, starting with a toasty invitation that includes whiffs of grilled pineapple, butterscotch, apricot, scorched banana and lanolin. It’s a delicious drink with fleshy McIntosh apple and pineapple W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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recent releases upside-down cake flavors, nice viscosity, late acidity and pleasing bitterness.
Lange Estate Winery & Vineyards
but there’s backing from starfruit, pineapple and dried apple. Lemon bitters in the finish provides lingering tartness.
Riesling
2009 Three Hills Cuvée Chardonnay
WINE REVIEWS
and pears. Sliced mango leads the palate, which turns lean with lime and mineral undertones as the residual sugar comes in at less than 1%.
Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 410 cases, 13.2% alc., $30
Recommended. Second-generation winemaker
Jesse Lange calls this his “lingerine” Chardonnay because there’s just a veil of neutral oak used, which doesn’t cover up the apricot, starfruit and lemon aromas. And it’s a supple drink with pears in a simple syrup, pineapple and Honeycrisp apple flavors, backed by mashed banana. Starfruit arrives in the finish for some late acidity.
LaStella Winery
Apex Cellars 2008 Riesling
Ancient Cellars
Columbia Valley, 700 cases, 12% alc., $17
2008 Gilt Pinot Gris
Excellent. The historic Airfield Ranches near
Willamette Valley, 139 cases, 13% alc., $18
Prosser, Wash., help produced aromas of Granny Smith apple, fresh-cut lemon, river rock, jasmine and diesel. Candy corn, papaya, apples and tangelo flavors are the first to hit tongue, where lemon and lime acidity brush off the sweetness of 1.9% residual sugar.
Excellent. Fruit from Maresh Vineyard in the
2009 Leggiero Unoaked Chardonnay
Cave B Estate Winery
Okanagan Valley, 450 cases, 12.5% alc., $25 CDN
2009 Cave B Vineyards Riesling
Excellent. One of the Okanagan Valley’s most
Columbia Valley, 253 cases, 13.1% alc., $18
exciting young wineries continues to impress. The beautiful and enticing nose shows off Juicy Fruit, canteloupe, starfruit, unripe nectarine, kumquat, lime, honeysuckle, talcum powder and slate. Refreshing is the drink of Texas pink grapefruit, honeydew melon, more kumquat and starfruit, polished by integrated lime acidity and finished with a fuzzy apricot.
Recommended. Golden Delicious apple, jasmine
L’Ecole No. 41 2008 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 4,925 cases, 14.2% alc., $22
Recommended. Second- and third-year French
oak barrels set the scene for this production, most of which was harvested in early October. Lemon, pineapple and toasted pine nuts make for a generous drink that finishes with a casting of acidity and hints of pear with vanilla.
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
and pear aromas and flavors come together in a viscous presentation that finishes with tasty hints of a lemon/lime snow cone and Carolina sweet tea.
David Hill Vineyards & Winery 2009 Estate Riesling Willamette Valley, 388 cases, 12% alc., $16
Excellent. Vines planted in 1965, ranking among
Oregon’s oldest commercial sites, continue to show well in the glass. Jason Bull brought out a big nose of tropical fruit such as papaya and passionfruit, and there are complex hints of apple, pear, clove, honeysuckle and underripe strawberry. Green apple and steeliness on the entry creates a contrast with the aromas, yet there are peachy fruit cocktail flavors on the midpalate, backed up by lime and lemon acidity.
Dundee Hills that included a lot that received Steinberg yeast, a strain typically used in fermenting dessert wines, explains aromas of glaceed apricots, Nilla Wafer, banana peel and ripe honeydew. Viscous tropical flavors of lemon Starburst, banana pudding, pineapple and a kernel of hominy. Lingering acidity picks up more apricot and pear in the finish make this very quaffable.
King Estate 2009 Signature Collection Pinot Gris Oregon, 90,000 cases, 13% alc., $17
Excellent. As the middle tier Pinot Gris for
Oregon’s most famous ambassador, it provides aromas of Asian pear, peach, grapefruit, honeysuckle, lemon, lilac and hints of whipped cream. Those pear and grapefruit notes are revived on the palate where there’s dried apple, a bit of lemon pith and lots of acidity.
LaStella Winery 2009 Vivace Pinot Grigio Okanagan Valley, 590 cases, 13.5% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. Poached apple, banana, grapefruit and
river rock aromas bridge with enjoyable flavors of sugared pink grapefruit, canteloup, canned pears in medium syrup and orange peel.
2008 Proprietor’s Limited Release Chardonnay
Elk Cove Vineyards
Maysara
Yakima Valley, 124 cases, 14.1% alc., $17
2008 Estate Riesling
2009 Arsheen Pinot Gris
Willamette Valley, 309 cases, 12% alc., $19
McMinnville, 1,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $16
lavender and mustard seed transform into an easy drink of Golden Delicious apple and lemon as the incorporation of Roussanne (10%) adds some fleshiness.
Recommended. An off-dry offering, it’s a blend of
Recommended. This lively, low alcohol and crisp
orchard fruit aromas with sweet apple and crisp tangerine flavors.
Willamette Valley Vineyards
2009 Riesling
rendition of bio-dynamically farmed Pinot Gris shows a nice gathering of dusty peach, nectarine, starfruit, lemon/lime fruit. It’s done dry, without oak, and features a bite of Golden Delicious and orange segment in the finish.
2008 Dijon Clone Chardonnay
Okanagan Valley, 1,213 cases, 11% alc., $23 CDN
Willamette Valley, 1,158 cases, 13.0% alc., $20
Recommended. Done in a dry Germanic style, it
Excellent. Pleasing treatment from French oak
focuses on Granny Smith apple, lime and lots of minerality, backed by hints of mustard seed, white peppercorn and grassiness.
Recommended. Fascinating aromas of blueberry,
merely accents the aromas and flavors of this food-friendly Chardonnay. There’s a delicious blend of Granny Smith apple, pear and pineapple notes throughout. The subtle creaminess, acidity and some perceived sweetness will lend this nicely to poached halibut with lemon or tempura.
Woodward Canyon Winery 2008 Chardonnay Washington, 736 cases, 14.1% alc., $44
Excellent. Rick Small leans heavily on Clone 108
from his estate vineyard, but there’s also 30% of Wente Clone fruit from Celilo Vineyard in the Columbia Gorge. In previous vintages, French oak seemed more prevalent than in this edition, which opens with aromas of Granny Smith apple, pear and orange rind, but there’s still vanilla, butterscotch and smoke. The oak and butterscotch arrive on the entry to the palate, W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
JoieFarm
Sweet Valley Wines 2009 Righteous Riesling Walla Walla Valley, 70 cases, 13.1% alc., $16
Excellent. Les Collines fruit spent eight months in
stainless steel, which creates aromas of lime zest, dusty lemon, Granny Smith apple and a puff of diesel. Orchard fruit drops into the mouth with more apples, Asian pear and nectarine. Pineapple and honeysuckle add some juiciness and sweetness, but a big spill of acidity scrubs the palate clean.
Tildio Winery
Mission Hill Family Estate 2008 Reserve Pinot Gris Okanagan Valley, 13.5% alc., $19 CDN
Recommended. Ambrosia salad, green apple and
citrus aromas show up in the palate, too, where the partial fermentation and surlie aging in French oak shows with banana, marshmallow and citrus pith in the finish.
Torii Mor Vineyard & Winery 2009 Pinot Gris Willamette Valley, 1,350 cases, 13.5% alc., $16
Recommended. A near 50/50 split of stainless
steel and neutral barrel fermentation allows for pear, citrus and grassy notes to permetate both the nose and the palate, which is softly finished by white peach and apple butter.
2009 Riesling
Vercingetorix
Lake Chelan, 130 cases, 12.9% alc., $18
2009 VX Pinot Gris
Excellent. Estate fruit farmed by Milum and Katy
Willamette Valley, 13.3% alc., $18
Perry allow for aromas of papaya, dried apricot
Recommended. Starfruit, honeydew melon, FA L L 2 0 1 0 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
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spearmint, cooked banana aromas funnel into more starfruit and Asian pear flavors. A steady stream of acidity whisks through the drink, capped by a twist of lemon and a drop of honey.
Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Airfield Estates 2008 Semillon Yakima Valley, 120 cases, 14.2% alc., $18
Recommended. Coconut cream pie filling, fig,
apple and hint of Camembert transition to fresh lemon flavors with pleasing acidity and delicious coconut milk.
Cadaretta Wines
There’s pleasing length and citrus pith in the finish.
palate before the arrival of oak spice and citrus pith.
Stag’s Hollow Winery
Tildio Winery
2009 Sauvignon Blanc
2009 Viognier
Okanagan Valley, 1,700 cases, 12.9% alc., $19 CDN
Lake Chelan, 156 cases, 13.5% alc., $19
Excellent. Larry Gerelus and winemaker Dwight
Outstanding! Kate Perry put Tsillan Cellars on
Sick are building a reputation for work with Rhône varieties, but they don’t short-change this white Bordeaux grape. Subtle aromas of lemon, apple, jasmine, lavender, linen and lemon/lime include some telltale grassiness. Quince and lemons focus the entry to the delicate palate, followed by green apple and banana slices drizzled with lime juice. Enjoy with oysters served sans the condiments, just simply on the half shell.
the map with a stunning white program, and she’s doing the same on the north side of the lake at her own winery. There’s no oak, but enticing roundness in the nose with apricot, classic orange aromas and a pinch of mint. On the palate, it is flawless, satiny and delicious. Think of an orange Creamsicle with only a bit more acidity and vanilla panna cotta joined by apricot, lemon and topped with a mint leaf.
2009 sbs
Viognier
Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13.4% alc., $23
Excellent. Here marks the final vintage for
Virginie Bourgue with this young Walla Walla winery, and it’s a delightful blend of Sauvignon Blanc (78%) and Semillon from Arete Vineyard along Radar Hill near Othello, Wash., and Spring Creek Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Aromas spotlight lemon and gentle grassiness with a wink of oak from life on the lees. However, steely flavors are focused on starfruit, honeydew melon and Asian pear as lemony acidity produces a tangy and intense finish.
Cave B Estate Winery 2008 Cave B Vineyards Semillon Columbia Valley, 275 cases, 14.5% alc., $20
Outstanding! Freddy Arredondo’s restrained use
of oak allows for elegance and food pairing. Neutral barrels create aromas of marshmallow, savory spice, nutmeg and lemon yogurt. There’s classic fig flavors in a complex structure with a satiny feel of lanolin and butterscotch, followed by banana nut bread. Its lemony finish conjures up thoughts of pairing with risotto.
Fidelitas Wines 2008 Semillon Columbia Valley, 360 cases, 13.7% alc., $30
Recommended. Whiffs of lemon, fresh fig and
grassiness transcend into pear and crisp nectarine flavors, backed by more fig, pineapple and fresh-squeezed lime in the finish.
L’Ecole No. 41
2008 Anna Maria Viognier
Cave B Estate Winery
Applegate Valley, 580 cases, 12.9% alc., $22
2009 Cave B Vineyards Viognier
Excellent. The Wisnovsky family founded its win-
Columbia Valley, 293 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
ery in 1976, making it the first in the Rogue Valley. Its style for Viognier is fruit-forward, which shows with dusty nectarine, orange/pineapple juice, sweat pea and butterscotch aromas. While there’s no oak and no malolactic fermentation, there’s a sweet lemon custard feel to the palate with vanilla and pleasing citrusy bitterness in the finish.
Recommended. Oranges, lemons and Golden
Delicious apple notes come across without barrel influence in a crowd-pleasing fashion, topped by spearmint and subdued acidity.
Kestrel Vintners 2009 Falcon Series Viognier Yakima Valley, 617 cases, 13.9% alc., $20
an amicable toast to Rhône with lemon/lime, lemongrass and pear. The fluid stays true to the variety with orange and tangerine flavors, a slice of honeydew melon and bold gooseberry acidity that give it pairing capability for scallops or mussels.
Lullaby Winery 2008 Viognier
Chateau Lorane 2008 Dry Gewürztraminer Oregon, 88 cases, 13.9% alc., $16
Recommended. Pineapple, lychee, baking spice,
dried apple and lemon peel splash about in more acidity than is typical for a Gewürz from Oregon.
Walla Walla Valley, 120 cases, 14.1% alc., $28
Pentâge
Recommended. Virginie Bourgue’s individual pet
2009 Gewürztraminer
project in Walla Walla has begun to take shape, and she’s not embarrassed to use a slice of oak in her expression of this Rhône variety. The bouquet hints at grapefruit, Circus Peanut candy and a bowl of Cheerios. There’s nice roundness on the palate with smashed banana, lemon and light toast, capped by some late butterscotch.
Pend d’Oreille Winery
Columbia Valley, 4,154 cases, 14.2% alc., $16
2008 Viognier
Excellent. No fewer than seven vineyards — pri-
Washington, 79 cases, 14.5% alc., $18
marily Klipsun (Red Mountain) and Rosebud (Wahluke Slope) — contribute to one of the largest productions of Semillon in the Northwest. Mature French barrels and 50% surlie aging allows for the fig, tangy citrus and basil notes to flourish. The structure is one of mouthfilling creaminess, balanced by lemons and a sheen of olive oil. Enjoy with Oysters Rockefeller or a round of Mussel-mania.
Recommended. Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the
LeVieux Pin
Sweet Valley Wines
2009 Sauvignon Blanc
2009 Righteous Viognier
Okanagan Valley, 287 cases, 13.7% alc., $35 CDN
Washington, 250 cases, 13.5% alc., $16
Recommended. Classic gooseberry aromas are
Recommended. Dusty apple, Lemonhead candy,
backed by yellow grapefruit, starfruit and tomato leaf, leading to a rounded but juicy flavors of pear, lemon and more grapefruit.
orange bitters, banana and cinnamon aromas meet up with an approach of sweet orange on the mouth. Creaminess appears on the mid-
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Excellent. Affable winemaker Flint Nelson created
2008 Semillon
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Valley View Winery
Horse Heaven Hills supplied the fruit for this Sandpoint, Idaho, winery, and it was a worthwhile trip. Toasted coconut, Dreyer’s orange/vanilla ice cream, jasmine, lime, freshcut grass and fresh marshmallow fill the nose. Fresh-squeezed orange, pear and grassy flavors burst on the scene, met with pleasing creaminess and gravelly acidity.
Okanagan Valley, 370 cases, 13% alc., $18 CDN
Outstanding! One fear with global climate change is that it threatens the ability of folks such as Paul Gardner to nurture cool-climate varieties as perfectly he does at his winery/vineyard in Penticton, B.C. Spiced pink grapefruit tickles your nose, along with lychee, honeysuckle, a piece of Nutter Butter cookie and a sprig of rosemary. Its dry and adroitly balanced delivery brings a citrus salad with lime, orange and grapefruit. There’s more lychee too, finished with citrus pith, slate and a pine needle. Enjoy either as a refreshing cocktail or pair with a brat served with stone-ground mustard.
Lopez Island Vineyards 2009 Estate Madeleine Angevine Puget Sound, 360 cases, 12% alc., $20
Recommended. Pink grapefruit, starfruit, quince,
Granny Smith apple and honeysuckle aromas and flavors make for a mouthwatering drink that’s capped by ripe cantaloupe and passionfruit.
Lopez Island Vineyards 2009 Estate Siegerrebe Puget Sound, 210 cases, 12% alc., $23
Excellent. Brent Charnley annually achieves sucW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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recent releases cess with his organic expression of this littleknown variety. It opens with a slightly orangy hue, and the aromas include Mandarin orange, grapefruit, cling peach, dried apricot, lime, coconut, rose petal and hints of Bananas Foster. There’s follow-through on the palate with more grapefruit and white peach as the acidity keeps on coming via gooseberry, Granny Smith apple, starfruit and Meyer lemon. Serve confidently with seafood.
Maysara 2009 Pinot Blanc McMinnville, 250 cases, 12% alc., $17
Excellent. Tahmiene Momtazi took the winemaking reins after graduating from Oregon State University, and this expresses the grace of her family’s expansive biodynamic vineyard. Pear juice, lemon/lime and apple pie aromas include a scrape of flint. It’s all about fruit on the palate with pineapple juice, starfruit and orange peel, capped by an enjoyable lemony crispness.
LaStella 2009 Moscato d’Osoyoos Okanagan Valley, 360 cases, 9.5% alc., $16 CDN
Excellent. Sometimes you need to hunt around a
bit in the Northwest for Muscat, and this young winery in British Columbia has added another to the wish list. A twist of a screwcap releases a genie of strawberry, lychee, banana, clover and jasmine aromas. It’s a delicious, thick and fun drink of those same notes with hints of honey spiced up by orangy acidity. The low alcohol and dose of residual sugar (1.6%) make this 375-milliliter bottle ideal for brunch.
Ponzi Vineyards 2009 Arneis Willamette Valley, 404 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Excellent. Luisa Ponzi’s skill with this fun and
unusual variety, the fanfare it warrants, and its amount of acreage at the estate Arneis Vineyard combine to make this difficult to track down after June. It opens with fresh-cut Golden Delicious apple, yellow grapefruit and spicy apricot aromas, then it explodes with fruit on the palate with peaches and more apricots. A trail of pink grapefruit provides lingering acidity and makes it very drinkable. Enjoy this at the Dundee Bistro with ceviche when in season.
Tefft Cellars 2009 Chenin Blanc
Vercingetorix 2009 VX Pinot Blanc
White blends Airfield Estates
Coyote Canyon Winery 2009 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Life is Rosé Horse Heaven Hills, 162 cases, 13.9% alc., $18
Recommended. Its strikingly beautiful red color
and off-dry approach (2.8% residual sugar) make this Barbera blush suitable for white Zin folks. There’s a delicious blend of strawberry juice, watermelon Jolly Rancher candy, cherries and canned plums, but a good squirt of cranberry and lemon tartness gives it balance.
LaStella 2009 LaStellina Merlot Rosato
2008 Lightning
Okanagan Valley, 200 cases, 13.5% alc., $25 CDN
Yakima Valley, 450 cases, 14.5% alc., $18
Outstanding! On the outskirts of the border town of Osoyoos, the young sister property to LeVieux Pin — our 2009 B.C. Winery to Watch — makes a screw-capped adventure for the senses. Strawberries are ever-present, with cinnamon bark, pineapple and Jolly Rancher watermelon candy in the recesses. The drink includes a remarkable presentation of sweet then tart with boysenberry and rhubarb.
Excellent. Among the blends at this young
Prosser, Wash., is the mixture of Viognier (50%), Roussanne (25%), Chardonnay (20%) and Marsanne. Aromas and flavors feature a baked lemon tart, rosewater, cardamom and vanilla bean. There’s also a touch of smashed banana on the palate, which is nicely balanced with acidity and finished with cinnamon sprinkled over a baked pear.
Brian Carter Cellars 2008 Oriana Columbia Valley, 374 cases, 13.3% alc., $20
Recommended. Here’s a complex production of
Le Vieux Pin 2009 Voila Pinot Noir Rosé Okanagan Valley, 315 cases, 13.4% alc., $25 CDN
Excellent. A French term refers to the winery’s
“lone pine” that overlooks Oliver, B.C., and
Viognier (51%), Roussanne (31%) and Riesling with part of the blend spending six months in neutral oak. Aromatics range from dried mango, baked apple, a dusting of facial powder, yellow rose, lemon and Lipton chicken noodle soup mix. Bosc pear joins the apple and mango on the palate, where there’s more oak toast. A zesty finish features lemon juice and some pleasing pith.
JoieFarm 2009 Noble Blend Okanagan Valley, 3,890 cases, 12.5% alc., $24 CDN
Recommended. This annual tribute to Alsatian “Edelzwicker” blends presents aromas of peach, apricot, river rock, Muscat Ramble and a hint of grassiness. Delicious flavors follow up with the same stone fruit, as well as nectarine, Mandarin orange and a late squirt of lime.
Kana Winery
Recommended. This Outlook, Wash., winery offers
2007 Masterpiece Reserve White
a sweeter approach to Chenin Blanc, filling it with tones of honeysuckle, pineapple juice, lavender, sugar cane and Red Delicious apple. A dose of Rose’s lime juice in the finish helps to balance the residual sugar of 3.6%.
Yakima Valley, 280 cases, 13.5% alc., $20
Recommended. This downtown Yakima winery
created a Rhône-style blend with Viognier (62%), Roussanne (26%) and Marsanne which resulted in tones of fig, crushed filberts, apple and pineapple core with a line of minerality.
2008 Anna Marie Roussanne
L’Ecole No. 41
Applegate Valley, 195 cases, 12.8% alc., $24
2008 Seven Hllls Vineyards Estate Luminesce
Excellent. The top-tier wines at this historic win-
Walla Walla Valley, 789 cases, 14.2% alc., $20
ery in Jacksonville, Ore., are named after the family matriarch. Pride with this Rhône variety shows with aromas and flavors of nectarine, quince, starfruit and marshmallow, with some lemon custard in the finish.
Recommended. Blending of Semillon (70%), taken
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
Rosés
Excellent. While this lesser-known Burgundy
Rattlesnake Hills, 66 cases, 11.5% alc., $17
Valley View Winery
sweet gurkins, artichoke hearts, apple butter and pear.
Willamette Valley, 150 cases, 13.2% alc., $18
variety seems to be falling out of favor among Oregon winemakers, Willamette Farms continues to champion its cause. Sublime are the aromas of apple blossom, white pepper, lemon zest and banana. It’s showy on the palate, though, with Juicy Fruit gum flavors, Golden Delicious apple, pear and peach. There’s a plushness to the midpalate and an enjoyable crisp finish with lemonade and starfruit flavors.
WINE REVIEWS
on Sept. 25, and the Sept. 15th pick of Sauvignon Blanc make for a complex, fruity and slightly soft drink that comes with tones of banana flambé, lemon, fresh-roasted peanuts, FA L L 2 0 1 0 • W I N E P R E S S N O RT H W E S T
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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Airfield Estates 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay Yakima Valley, 2,505 cases, 14.3% alc., $12
Excellent. Marcus Miller makes wine in Prosser,
Wash., from his father’s vines, and this style of Chardonnay shows off that fruit. Pear, apricot, apple, starfruit, lime and spearmint aromas swirl into a flavorful entry of orange and sweet lemon. Pears and apple re-appear on the balanced midpalate, backed by bold tartness and Minneola orange.
Airfield Estate 2009 Gewürztraminer Yakima Valley, 310 cases, 12.8% alc., $14
Recommended. Gewürz often carries a theme of
grapefruit, and this is no exception with appealing aromas and flavors of Ruby Red grapefruit, gooseberry pie, watermelon, lemon/lime, a slice of soft banana and a rose petal.
Airfield Estate 2009 Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 14.1% alc., $15
Recommended. One might think this juice came
from an orchard rather than a vineyard as apricot, nectarine and poached pear provide the theme. The nose includes roasted almonds, spearmint and candied orange. It’s a mouthfilling and refreshing drink with the stone fruit flavors, cleansing acidity and lingering
while there’s a hint of light oak and rose petal in the nose, the rest of this pink is fruit-driven with cherries, marionberry and watermelon. A finish of cranberry, citrus and slight grassiness adds to the complexity.
Pentâge Wines 2009 Rosé Okanagan Valley, 12.9% alc., 200 cases, $19 CDN
Outstanding! Some of the best wines in Canada are being produced at Paul Gardner’s 14-yearold winery overlooking Skaha Lake south of Penticton. This delightful pink is jam-packed with apricots, citrus and strawberry jam, carried by a bright, tasty and lingering structure.
Dessert wines Coyote Canyon Winery 2009 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Sweet Louise Late Harvest Viognier Riesling Horse Heaven Hills, 194 cases, 14.1% alc., $18
Excellent. Pronouncing the full name of this
dessert might cause you to lose your breath, but Mike Andrews rewards customers with a poor man’s ice wine. Envision walking through an orange grove and returning to find a baked apple pie. At 11% residual sugar, there’s a lot of sweetness, but the flavors keep coming with dried pineapple, peach ice cream, honey drizzled on cinnamon toast.
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sweetness that hints at more orange slice candy.
Airfield Estates 2009 Riesling Yakima Valley, 390 cases, 14.1% alc., $12
Outstanding! Washington’s oldest appellation grows much of the Northwest’s best Riesling, and the estate vineyard in Prosser for our reigning Washington Winery to Watch provides another example. Honeysuckle, mint and baking spice aromas coast into bright flavors of tree-ripened Gala apples and juicy first-of-the-season peaches. The delicate midpalate and extended finish of citrus make this a beguiling drink.
Airfield Estates 2009 Thunderbolt Sauvignon Blanc Yakima Valley, 900 cases, 13.7% alc., $12
Excellent. In the past, the Millers featured the
Thunderbolt as a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. This time, it’s labeled as straight Sauvignon Blanc. Bosc pear, lime, spearmint and mineral aromas meld with bright citrus flavors of orange and lemons.
Airfield Estate 2009 Vineyard Salute Flygirl White Yakima Valley, 780 cases, 14.8% alc., $12
Recommended. Support for this mission comes
from Viognier (60%), Chardonnay (18%),
Gewürztraminer (14%) and Roussanne, and the payload delivers aromas and flavors of peach, apricot, mango, muskmelon, honeysuckle and pillow mints. The soft approach gains a bit of traction from citrus pith in the finish.
Airfield Estates 2009 Vineyard Salute Ruby Rosé Yakima Valley, 412 cases, 15.7% alc., $14
Recommended. The Millers still build their pink
out of Syrah, and it’s still foot-stomped, but a legal challenge out of California prompted a removal of the reference on the label. It continues to be a delightful drink with hints of strawberry candy, Fee Brothers Cherry Bitters and raspberry with tart notes of cranberry and rhubarb and abundant acidity.
Ancient Cellars 2009 Pheasant Hill Vineyard Rosé de Cabernet Franc Rogue Valley, 36 cases, 14% alc., $14
Excellent. The Baker brothers have a long-dis-
tance collaboration, with Craig a chef living in the Midwest and Chris making the wine in Oregon. This marks their third commercial vintage, and it’s a fascinating one with tones of strawberry, raspberry, peppermint stick, lavender tea cookies and rose petals. Accessible fruit shows the austerity and acidity to marry well with roast turkey and cranberry sauce.
Valley View Vineyards
Tugwell Creek Honey Farm & Meadery
2007 Anna Maria Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc
2007 Vintage Sac Private Reserve Fortified Sweet Mead
Rogue Valley, 175 cases, 12.4% alc., $28
Recommended. These grapes came off at 26 brix,
frozen post-harvest, then aged for a year in used French oak. It’s a rather intrepid approach, but winemaker John Guerrero pulls it off. Lemon lime, mint leaf, nutmeg, almond paste and hints of smoky oak make for quite a package at 14% residual sugar.
Port style DavenLore Winery 2008 Dr. Davenport Syrah Forté
British Columbia, 225 cases, 18% alc., $27 CDN
Recommended. This was a first for us — a Northwest mead made in a Port-style. The meadery is less than a 10-minute drive from the famed Sooke Harbour House on Vancouver Island, and among the array of offerings is this dessert drink buzzing with tones of apricot, chocolate-covered orange peel, candied fruit, walnuts, ginger and beeswax. Citrusy acidity seems to drive the wine, rather than alcohol. Enjoy this during the holidays with fruit cake.
Ice wines
Snipes Mountain, 61 cases, 17.9% alc., $25
Outstanding! Gord Taylor admits he probably
enjoys building this Port-style wine more than any other in the portfolio he creates with wife/WSU scientist Joan Davenport. Fruity, yet not pruny, aromas cast out boysenberry and black currant with cocoa powder, vanilla bourbon and black licorice trailing. Think of drinking Chukar Cherry in a chocolate syrup. A super-rich concentration of that includes more currant, just a bit of tannin for complexity and capped by Graham cracker and coconut. Because the alcohol and sugars are balanced, look for this to hold steady for quite some time.
Claar Cellars 2008 White Bluffs Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine Columbia Valley, 90 cases, 10% alc., $40
Excellent. The Whitelatches treated this harvest
as they do in British Columbia, picking before dawn Dec. 10 at 7° Fahrenheit. Those efforts made for aromas of canteloup, grapefruit, Banana Foster, pineapple, honeysuckle, candied ginger and orange peel. On the succulent palate, it’s not overly syrupy and deals with apricot preserves, pineapple, white peach, honey and more grapefruit. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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WINE REVIEWS
Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Apex Cellars 2008 Apex II Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 13% alc., $13
Excellent. The blend of Yakima Valley fruit from
Minick and Smasne sites opens with tantalizing aromas of starfruit, green banana, dusty apple and tangerine. Nice balance is achieved in the mouth with lemon yogurt, Gala apple and yellow grapefruit. Toward the back are delicate herbaceous hints of chevril and fennel, finished with some honeydew melon.
B. Lovely 2008 Late Harvest Riesling Washington, 4,700 cases, 8.9% alc., $8
Excellent. Here’s yet another new brand and
another entry into the Riesling landscape for the Precept concept. Orchard fruit aromas and flavors also come with jasmine, clove, rose petal and candy corn. Orangy acidity arrives to balance the residual sugar (5%).
Chateau Lorane 2008 Chardonnay Oregon, 95 cases, 14.8% alc., $12
Excellent. The Kesters started with a 30-acre
vineyard west of Cottage Grove back in 1984, and next year they celebrate their 20th anniversary as a commercial winery. Here’s a traditional approach to Chardonnay that starts with a nose of toasted marshmallow, sandalwood, starfruit and lemon. It’s more fruit-forward on the palate with hints of lemon custard, pie crust and touch of sweetness.
Chateau Lorane 2007 Huxelrebe Oregon, 60 cases, 13.9% alc., $15
Excellent. This variety is rarely seen in the out-
side of British Columbia, and here’s an off-dry presentation with the German cross of Chasselas and Courtillier Musque. It’s aromatic profile lists lemon, Granny Smith apple, apricot, honey and river rock. Next comes an amazing and wonderfully smooth approach of yellow grapefruit, more apple and lemon with cinnamon.
Claar Cellars 2009 White Bluffs Unoaked Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 845 cases, 13.3% alc., $13
Excellent. This venerable site overlooking the
Columbia River near Pasco, Wash., offers a variety of citrusy aromas with starfruit. There is brightness to the palate with that continued theme of starfruit and blood orange, bringing a nice thread of acidity and some creaminess in the background.
Columbia Crest 2009 Two Vines Gewürztraminer Washington, 27,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $8
Outstanding! The goal is a true expression of this Germany variety at a price for everyone, and here’s an example of what the French W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
call “typicity.” Classic spicy grapefruit aromas are joined by lychee, apricot, pear, rosewater, dandelion and a whiff of Cointreau. Those notes are matched on the quaffable (2.8% residual sugar) palate, yet citrusy acidity continues to build, giving it a clean finish.
Columbia Winery 2008 Cellarmaster’s Riesling Columbia Valley, 80,000 cases, 10% alc., $10
Recommended. Each year, fermentation is tradi-
Washington, 50,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $8
tionally and famously finished right around 6% residual sugar, and this Northwest favorite is a hot-tubber with tropical flavors that include passionfruit, lychee, lavender and sweetened lemon and grapefruit.
Recommended. Never before has this variety
Covey Run Winery
Columbia Crest 2009 Two Vines Pinot Grigio
been presented by this line, and it’s a lively little wine leading with tones of tropical fruit, orchard and citrus fruit, backed by sweet honeydew and tomato leaf, then capped with a bite of Granny Smith apple.
Columbia Crest 2009 Two Vines Riesling Washington, 65,000 cases, 11.5% alc., $8
Outstanding! Seriously, it’s laughable how good and how inexpensive these wines are. With prescience, this lot was harvested Oct. 7 — three days before the freakish cold snap ended all ripening. And yet, Ray Einberger’s group put together a straight-forward drink with pleasing peach, apricot, lemon, lychee and jasmine notes. There’s delicious acidity and farewell slice of kiwi fruit.
Columbia Crest 2009 Two Vines Sauvignon Blanc Washington, 40,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $8
2008 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 4,971 cases, 13.5% alc., $9
Excellent. Roll down the windows for a drive to a Naches Valley fruit stand and grab peach, apricot, pear and nectarines. That’s what is in store for the nose, which also delivers a piece of homemade caramel, vanilla and flint. Richness is achieved on the entry with Bartlett pears, then butterscotch swings through the midpalate. It’s cleansed by citrusy acidity and finished by pineapple and shaved coconut.
Covey Run Winery 2008 Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley, 730 cases, 13.5% alc., $9
Recommended. Asian pear, Roza peach, candy
corn and lemon zest aromas and flavors pick up accents of slate, sandalwood and raindrenched timothy hay as the sweetness and acidity are created in a “porch pounder” structure.
Outstanding! These wines are designed to be fruit-forward, yet there’s remarkable complexity with this Sauvignon Blanc — picked on Aug. 27. Peach meets gooseberry in the aromas, which are accented by hints of grassiness, honeysuckle, Asian pear, papaya and lime. While hyper-tropical on the palate, midpalate tartness from lime, pear and melon extends to balance the itzy bit of sweetness. Broadly applicable, it could also serve as a substitute for a dry Riesling and pair with oysters.
DavenLore Winery
Columbia Winery
DavenLore Winery
2008 Gewürztraminer
2009 Riesling
Columbia Valley, 6,037 cases, 13% alc., $10
Yakima Valley, 71 cases, 12.7% alc., $15
Recommended. A delicate nose of honeysuckle,
lychee, yellow grapefruit, flint and clarified butter belies the more lively flavors to come with grapefruit, more honeysuckle and a finish of navel orange acidity with pith that helps balance the residual sugar of 2%.
Recommended. Prosser vintner Gordon Taylor makes a Port-style wine, so he doesn’t leave his Riesling sweet. The serious approach offers aromas of lime peel, green apple, LemonHead candy, diesel and anise. Dry is the drink of lime, river rock, minerality and baked apple.
Columbia Winery
Desert Wind Winery
2008 Pinot Gris
2009 Sacagawea Vineyard Dry Rosé
Columbia Valley, 8,375 cases, 13% alc., $12
Wahluke Slope, 94 cases, 13% alc., $15
Excellent. Otis Vineyard, established in 1957, is
Recommended. Co-owner/winemaker Greg Fries
viewed as the first in Washington to be planted with this variety. Two other Yakima Valley vineyards, Olsen and Upland, make for a presentation with tones of starfruit, dried pineapple, white peach and Aplets and Cotlets. Lingering acidity and its crisp approach conjure up the phrase “Pinot Gris and things from the sea.”
made this his first dry pink for the family’s Washington winery in Prosser. Sangiovese went through neutral oak and partial malolactic fermentation, resulting in hints of strawberry shortcake, pie cherry, cranberry and a hint of freshly clipped artichoke. Available only online and in the tasting room.
2009 Estate Rosé Yakima Valley, 44 cases, 13.6% alc., $15
Recommended. College students hand-harvested
this Merlot (35%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and Syrah during an Oct. 4 dust storm, and Gordon Taylor sifted out a dry drink of Rainier cherries, white strawberry and red currants with cinnamon, mint and citrus acidity. Enjoy this during the holidays or with a BLT sandwich.
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Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Desert Wind Winery
provide a $1 mail-in rebate to the buyer.
2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Chardonnay
Kana Winery
Wahluke Slope, 294 cases, 14.5% alc., $15
Outstanding! A blend of family fruit that underwent both stainless steel (70%) and barrel fermentation produces a fascinating Chardonnay. Twisting the cap unleashes a genie effect of tropical tones along with Asian pear, Granny Smith and subtle butterscotch. Sweet pears lead the pleasurable drink including cantalope, honeydew melon, creamy banana and underlying minerality. Refreshing lemon shows in the farewell. There will be pressure on newly promoted winemaker Mark Chargin to replicate this.
2007 Katie Mae Riesling Yakima Valley, 198 cases, 12% alc., $14
Excellent. It’s worthy to note this bottling shows
amazing freshness, regardless of its more than two years of life under screwcap. The sweet Pink Lady apple and petrol aromas lead to more apples and citrusy flavors. Fermentation was stopped at 2.8% residual sugar, and it will be a pleasing quaffer during an Indian Summer afternoon.
Kestrel Vintners Pure Platinum, Sixth Edition
Desert Wind Winery
Yakima Valley, 3,300 cases, 12.8% alc., $10
2008 Desert Wind Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
Excellent. Previous editions favored
Wahluke Slope, 611 cases, 15.5% alc., $15
Gewürztraminer over Viognier, but this time it’s Viognier (54%), Gewürz (34%), then Pinot Gris. Grapefruit, diesel and allspice aromas are matched on the palate, joined by peach and a big lick off an orange Creamsicle. The residual sugar, dialed in once again around 1.4%, continues to make this blue bottle a delicious sipper or a keen partner for spicy foods.
Recommended. Gooseberry, green apple, Bosc
pear, grassiness and the flick of a tomcat’s tail help tell the tale of the aromas. There’s a quick burst of sugared apple on the entry, then quince, starfruit and gooseberry take over with a thread of minerality in the background.
Riesling with pomegranate juice added post fermentation. Alluring aromas of pink cotton candy, blueberry, tangerine, wet chalkboard — and pomegranate. Fresh Rainier cherries, red raspberry, more pomegranate and tangerine tones make for an exotic finish. Flute service and topping with a splash of club soda makes for a showy drink.
Long Tail Lizard 2009 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 200 cases, 12% alc., $11
Excellent. Preston winemaker Dave Harvey
created this fruit-forward wine and yet managed to finish it dry. It opens with huge hints of fresh-cut Gala apple and Bartlett pear, backed by whiffs of ginger creme cookie, lemon yogurt and grapefruit. Tropical fruit flavors are heaped on the palate with Granny Smith apple tartness and a citrusy finish with lemon pith. Enjoy with fruit and soft cheeses.
Milbrandt Vineyards 2009 Traditions Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 3,972 cases, 12.5% alc., $13
Excellent. Vineyard barons Butch and Jerry
orange Creamsicle are nectarine and jasmine. There’s a hint of oak showing in the palate along with the orange and butterscotch, finished with a dash of Fee Brothers Lemon Bitters.
Recommended. Stainless-steel treatment allows
for this production to feature crisp fruit with tones of Bosc pear, tangerine, muskmelon and cantaloupe.
Milbrandt continue to develop their own wine brand, and here’s a style of Pinot Gris for others to follow. Nectarine, red grapefruit, pear juice and sliced peaches over vanilla ice cream create the aromatic profile. There’s follow through on the palate, accented by lime and grapefruit acidity with pineapple in the finish. Its structure should pair nicely with a Waldorf salad.
Girly Girl Wines
King Estate
Milbrandt Vineyards
Desert Wind Winery 2009 Desert Wind Vineyard Viognier Wahluke Slope, 414 cases, 14.5% alc., $15
Recommended. Just behind the classic notes of
2008 Chardonnay
Kramer Vineyards 2008 Pinot Gris Yamhill-Carlton District, 175 cases, 13% alc., $15
2009 Acrobat Pinot Gris
Columbia Valley, 600 cases, 13% alc., $13
Oregon, 30,000 cases, 12.5% alc., $12
Outstanding! This sister project to Silver Lake
Recommended. The King family serves as this
Winery is the brainchild of marketing director Karen Ward, who developed the business plan for her MBA at Seattle University. She also collaborates with group winemaker Bill Ammons on the finished product, which in this screwcap bottle comes filled with apricot, pear, Mandarin orange, lime, pineapple and Sara Lee pound cake aromas. The lively fruity drink shows off mouthwatering acidity amid the Asian pear, lemon and lime flavors. Enjoy with poached halibut and spinach or macaroni and cheese.
Girly Girl Wines 2008 Pinot Gris Columbia Valley, 518 cases, 13% alc., $13
Outstanding! While the screwcap line is marketed toward women, this bottle will please either sex. Fresh-cut pineapple, pear, starfruit and yellow rose aromas guide you down the aisle to flavors of lemon, lime and papaya. It’s not complicated, but Bill Ammons gave this fruit-forward PG nice crispness to balance this 0.9% residual sugar with a hint of Spanish almond in the finish. In October, Washington Wine and Beverage Co., will donate $1 per bottle to City of Hope cancer research and
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grape’s Northwest ambassador to the rest of the country, and here’s a production at an introductory price. Starfruit, dried pear and apple aromas and flavors with lemon acidity and fresh-cut celery accents make this ideal with seared scallops.
L’Ecole No. 41 2009 “Walla Voila” Chenin Blanc
2009 The Traditions Riesling Columbia Valley, 4,704 cases, 12.5% alc., $13
Outstanding! Gordy Hill and the Milbrandt broth-
ers earn their seat at the Northwest Riesling table with this succulent package. Pineapple, orange, honeydew melon, honeysuckle and diesel aromas include a sense of lemon meringue pie. Orchard fruit flavors of peach, apricot and Gala apple join fresh pineapple on the palate where mouthwatering acidity balances and refreshes the residual sugar (1.4%). River rock and green banana add complexity.
Columbia Valley, 2,536 cases, 13.5% alc., $15
Excellent. The famous little schoolhouse in
Lowden, Wash., has promoted this underappreciated grape using a Vouvray approach since 1987, and Willard Family Farm near Prosser, Wash., helps make it happen. Effusive florals include segmented orange, honey, baking spices, fresh-cut grass and banana Laffy Taffy. It’s a charming drink of sweet lemons and orange with huge acidity as the residual sugar (1%) merely keeps it sophisticated.
Long Tail Lizard
Mission Hill Family Estate 2008 Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio Okanagan Valley, 7,500 cases, 13% alc., $16 CDN
Excellent. A product of five sites, one gets the sense they harvested from orchards rather than vineyards because the profile is stocked with cling peach, ripe pear and apples fresh off the tree. Hints of melon, rose, hibiscus and grapefruity acidity add to the glass. Twist off the screwcap and enjoy with a fish taco.
2009 Pomegranate Blush
Mount Baker Vineyards & Winery
Washington, 500 cases, 12% alc., $13
2009 Proprietor’s Limited Release Riesling
Recommended. A second label for Preston
Yakima Valley, 248 cases, 13.5% alc., $15
Premium Wines in Pasco, Wash., its base is
Excellent. Crawford Vineyard near Prosser,
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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WINE REVIEWS
Best Buys: White wines Outstanding, Excellent or Recommended wines that retail at $15 and under.
Wash.— the lifeblood for a number of Puget Sound wineries — shines again with this tasty offering that opens with attractive aromas of green apple, peach tutti fruitti, lavender, jasmine and hominy. Peachy flavors in the offdry drink are backed by lychee, honeysuckle and candy corn. Tongue-flapping acidity from blood orange balances the sweetness at 1.6% residual sugar.
Primarius
Parejas Cellars
2008 Unoaked Chardonnay
2008 Late Harvest Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 100 cases, 11.5% alc., $15
Excellent. There aren’t many dessert-style
Pinot Gris offerings made in Washington, but here’s a tasty blueprint. Bartlett pear, caramel, butterscotch and mulling spices aromas don’t necessarily hint at a late harvest. There’s a full delivery of sugar (11%) in the tasty drink with pear butter, Bit o’ Honey, Orange Slice candy and cinnamon.
Parejas Cellars 2009 Two Coyote Vineyard Pinot Gris
2007 Pinot Gris Oregon, 2,500 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Recommended. Pear, jasmine, lychee, cinnamon
and lemon zest aromas fall into a mouth that adds in flavors of apricot, blueberry tea and orange oil.
Columbia Valley, 297 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Excellent. Fruity notes of pineapple, dried citrus
peel, baked apple and white pear also blend in with beguiling tones of butterscotch and a box of fresh caramel corn that would hint at some time in barrel. And yet, there’s delicious synchronicity to the interaction of acidity, sweetness and fruit.
Silver Lake Winery 2009 Roza Riesling Rattlesnake Hills, 12.000 cases, 11.7% alc., $10
Excellent. Bill Ammons continues to roll out
cantaloupe and honeydew play out both in the aromas and flavors. Lemon juice creates a lengthy finish for oysters either raw or pan fried.
Preston Premium Wines
Silver Lake Winery
2008 Estate Chardonnay
2008 Roza Rosé
Columbia Valley, 475 cases, 12.5% alc., $13
Rattlesnake Hills, 1,288 cases, 12.5% alc., $10
Recommended. An assortment of fruity aromas
Recommended. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (73%) and Zinfandel has mass appeal with Juicy Fruit gum tones, apricot and cherry juice. It’s rather soft and sweet at 2.7% residual sugar and closes with a bite of raspberry Jaffa Cake.
Recommended. Varietal tendencies of starfruit,
includes pineapple, dried pear and lemon sorbet, along with barrel notes of Graham cracker and banana flambé. Crisp apple and more dried pear flavors blend with starfruit and watermelon rind, backed by bright acidity and a trace of minerality.
Preston Premium Wines 2009 Estate White Riesling Columbia Valley, 400 cases, 12% alc., $13
Outstanding! Veteran winemaker Dave Harvey
brought in these Pasco, Wash., grapes on Oct. 12 — soon after a historic cold snap — and turned them into an off-dry style. Inviting aromas of rosewater, jasmine, dried apple, lime, anise and diesel transition into a delicious, viscous drink and complex drink. Peaches with whipped cream arrive first on the palate before lemon and lime acidity kicks in, yielding to starfruit that balances the residual sugar (2.4%). Suggested pairings include a bowl of fruit salad.
Preston Premium Wines 2008 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Sockeye 2008 Pinot Grigio Columbia Valley, 2,000 cases, 13% alc., $13
Recommended. Precept Brands previously used California fruit for this line, but not here. It’s a complex offering of pear, dried apricot, casaba melon, sweet pea and grilled pineapple aromas. Ripe melon flavors lead to creamy butterscotch, then a steely finish of halved grapefruit topped with a maraschino cherry.
Washington Hills 2008 Riesling Washington, 6,900 cases, 11% alc., $10
for this nearly bone-dry drink of dried apricot, white peach and starfruit, accented by celery leaf and finished with lemony acidity.
W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
2008 Riesling Recommended. Generous aromas and flavors of
peach, Granny Smith apple, lychee and jasmine are held steady by a finish of tangerine acidity that cleans up the residual sugar of 2.2%. Serve as a cocktail or alongside a plate of pork chops with peach salsa.
W.B. Bridgman Cellars 2008 Viognier Columbia Valley, 500 cases, 14% alc., $10
Excellent. Precept Brands has breathed new life
into this historic label, and there’s an amazing assortment of descriptors for this drink. The nose opens with a lake breeze, followed by orange Creamsicle, lychee, jasmine, yellow grapefruit, citronella and Velveeta-influenced mac and cheese. On the palate, it’s less fanciful and more serious with orange creme soda and lychee leading the way. A flourish of tangelo and lime at the end make it a lip-smacking drink.
White Bear Wine Co. 2008 Pinot Blanc Okanagan Valley, 3,900 cases, 12.5% alc., $13 CDN Recommended. This conservation-minded label of Mission Hill Family Estate produced a Pinot Blanc that’s reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, starting with its greenish color in the glass. Gooseberry, yellow grapefruit and minerality aromas and flavors add to the tart theme, which is capped by a hint of lime in the finish. And 15% of sales go to protect rain forest habitat for Canada’s endangered "spirit bear.”
Willow Crest Winery 2009 Estate Pinot Gris Yakima Valley, 5,000 cases, 13.5% alc., $10
Recommended. This cooler site in Washington’s oldest appellation gives life to a tasty offering nectarine, pear and starfruit. Lemon/lime acidity and citrus pith create balance.
Willow Crest Winery
Excellent. Aromas of apricot, tangelo and
2009 Estate Riesling
candy corn develop into similar flavors that are sweet (2.3% residual sugar), juicy and delicate with some wet stone hints for complexity. It’s under screwcap and should be enjoyed before next spring.
Yakima Valley, 580 cases, 8.5% alc., $10
Columbia Valley, 330 cases, 2.5% alc., $13
Recommended. The grapes came off Sept. 29
W.B. Bridgman Cellars Columbia Valley, 1,500 cases, 11% alc., $10
Ridge Crest
value after value, and he’s built this in late harvest style because the residual sugar settled in at 5.5%. Aromas include freshly segmented tangerine and apricot, and there’s delicious sweetness on the palate with sugared Texas pink grapefruit, balanced by acidity and mineralty and capped by jasmine.
Yakima Valley, 220 cases, 13% alc., $13
marmalade on toast aromas lead into Asian pear and tart lime flavors. There’s good roundness on the palate with hints of cucumber chip and baked bread in the finish.
W.B. Bridgman Cellars 2008 Chardonnay Columbia Valley, 2,500 cases, 14.8% alc., $10
Recommended. Dried apricot, lime and orange
Excellent. At 1,300 feet elevation, Dave Minick’s
nearly 30-year-old vines have some advantages, and his partnership with Precept Brands helps get these wines into more hands. Green apple, lemon, orange Creamsicle, and river rock aromas also play out across the palate. Spritely acidity balances the residual sugar (5%), and the low alcohol makes it a responsible quaffer.
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vintage musings BY BOB WOEHLER
Tsillan Cellars a winery for the ages
L
ake Chelan’s wine history is short yet inspiring, and Bob Jankelson, owner of Tsillan Cellars, is one of those who first saw that promise less than 15 years ago. Jankelson is a world-traveling, inventive Seattle area dentist who decided to settle on the picturesque slopes of Lake Chelan. He recognized right away the potential of marrying a wine business with the tourism that already has made Lake Chelan an attraction. What he has done just outside the town of Chelan is build a beautiful destination winery where palatepleasing wines are made to match the Italian cuisine at the winery’s resident Sorrento’s Ristorante. “One thing that triggered my conviction for this area is what has happened in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley with so many destination wineries tied to a restaurant,” Jankelson said. “When you consider Lake Chelan is about a three-hour drive from 3 to 4 million people, you can understand the potential. Furthermore, Lake Chelan tourist business really doesn’t drop off much in the winter, as folks come for winter sports. That’s why the restaurant is opened 365 days a year,” a beaming Jankelson said. Jankelson is the son of a Seattle-area dentist and graduated from the University of Washington dental school. He grew up in the blue-collar coal-mining town of Black Diamond. Father and son developed technology to aid head and neck musculoskeletal disorders. They began teaching this technology all over the world and ended up in Italy in 1973, which awakened in the younger Jankelson a life-long love affair for wine and food. So it really wasn’t much of a leap when Jankelson retired in 1994 to a Red Delicious apple orchard on Lake Chelan. He recognized what many apple growers learned: The oncedominate Red Delicious variety was quickly becoming passé. Why not tear out the orchard and plant a wine grape vineyard just as the Chelan area was showing an interest in the wine industry that was sweeping across the state? So he decided to establish Tsillan Cellars in 2000, plant the grapes and open the winery doors May 1, 2004. But it just wasn’t the typical new winery, especially for Lake Chelan. Jankelson had the foresight to build an Italian country retreat nestled on the gently sloping south shore of Lake Chelan. Three cascading waterfalls form an amphitheater backdrop for an island stage. The waterfalls go together with natural stone bridges, natural slate terrazzo and walks, Tuscan stone columns, a 35-foot bell tower with a 650-pound bronze bell. Landscaped rockeries and gardens and a grape arbor overlook Lake Chelan, and the surrounding mountains complete the Old World look. However, the name “Tsillan” is a Native American term for “deep water,” for which the lake is famous. What makes this winery even more of a place to visit is the 94
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restaurant inside the tasting room. Sorrento’s Ristorante is owned by Jerry Criscuolo and his son, Gennaro, and is open every day, come sun, rain or snow. The menu is full of Italian gourmet delights, including pesto prawns and eggplant Parmesan. While I could wax on all day about the food, the purpose here is to look at the body of work of the wines. Starting out with Riesling and Gewürztraminer, Tsillan Cellars also makes Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Syrah and Malbec, along with several blends including Bellissima Rossa made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Soon to come will be three Italian red varieties: Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera. Tsillan winemaker Shane Collins comes from a fourth-generation Lake Chelan orchard family and has worked for wineries such as Spring Valley, Columbia and Covey Run. Tsillan Cellars doesn’t have a long history of vintage wines, but what it has shows promise for the future. Let’s look at these and some newer vintages. 2005 Estate Riesling: Still has crisp acidity and great flavors. Classic apple and petroleum aromas followed by grapefruit and lime sherbet. 2008 Estate Riesling, $16: Semi-dry, classic minerality with bright fruit flavors and aromas including the gamut of the orchard fruit, pears, apples, apricots and peaches. 2006 Estate Dry Riesling: A whole lot of citrus aromas and flavors backed up by Granny Smith apple peel along with a bit of pineapple. 2008 Estate Dry Riesling, $16: Won grand sweepstakes at West Coast Wine Competition. Delicious and inviting with a great mouth feel. Aromas of lavender and flavors of citrus and Rainier cherries. 2006 Reserve Gewürztraminer: Gold medal, San Francisco Chronicle judging and “Outstanding!” by Wine Press Northwest. A classic spicy Gewürztraminer with limes, lychee fruit and stunning acidity. 2008 Estate Gewürztraminer, $16: A carbon copy of the 2006. Sweet tangerines, lychee and a great finish. 2006 Estate Barrel Select Chardonnay: Nice light oak beginning with tropical fruit and citrus flavors. Walter Clore award as best Chardonnay at 2008 Washington State Wine Competition. 2007 Estate Chardonnay, $25: Great acidity to go with food. Think apples and warm butterscotch with a lemon cream finish. 2007 Estate Malbec, $23: Wonderful aromas of currants and violet with licorice, chocolate, ripe plum and bing cherry. 2006 Estate Syrah, $28: A chocolate, plum and cherry delight. Great acid, bacon and black pepper with a hint of citrus from being co-fermented with Viognier. BOB WOEHLER is Wine Press Northwest’s tasting editor. He has been writing about Northwest wine since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M
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